The Woodworker & Woodturner - August 2019 PDF

WOODWORK | TURNING | TOOL TESTS | FEATURES
August 2019
THE ORIGINAL & BEST SINCE 1901
DOVETAIL
KEY PUZZLE
Learn the secrets behind
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conundrum
5 STAR KIT
METABO 12V
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PLUS...
● ROBERT COULDWELL MAKES A PAIR OF KITCHEN ‘BAR’ CHAIRS IN OAK www.getwoodworking.com
WOODWORKING GROUP
● ROBIN GATES GETS TO GRIPS WITH A PLETHORA OF MEASURING TOOLS

£4.75
● THE MAKERS’ MAKER: WE TAKE A LOOK AT ALAN PETERS’ LAST PROJECT

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WELCOME
Welcome
As well as editing this magazine, I also work on our us about their revolutionary new range of machinery,
trade title, Woodworking News. Those of you who run which is embracing digital trends and aiming to make
professional furniture making and joinery companies the industry ‘future smart’. As well as exhibiting suppliers
may well receive this established journal, which has on hand to talk to members about their product and service
been going strong for 34 years. I recently stepped in to offerings, there was also a series of seminars running
replace previous Editor, Neil Herbert-Smith, whose vast throughout the day, hosted by key note speakers, covering
knowledge I still call upon very frequently (thanks, Neil). pertinent topics such as Consumer Rights Legislation,
As well as putting the publication together each month, Tackling Skills and Training Needs, and Health & Safety.
which is largely made up of press releases sent in from It was great to speak to WWN readers who said that, in
various industrial woodworking machinery companies, their view, ours was the best publication in the industry, Tegan Foley
the odd feature and a wide range of adverts, I am also commenting how many employees within their companies Group Editor
expected to attend relevant events as and when they passed it on and read it each month.
come up. For example, 2018 was an important one The day also turned out to be very successful in
in the woodworking calendar as this was when the terms of networking, and we were able to generate new
biennial W Exhibition fell; 2019 saw Ligna taking place advertising leads and also secure a feature on timber
in Hannover, Germany; and in 2020, Xylexpo – a biennial composite beading solution supplier, Qwood. I look
exhibition of woodworking technology and components forward to the next similar event and becoming more
for the furniture industry – will be held in Milan, Italy. knowledgeable about the industry as a whole.
BWF Members’ Day Launching The Alan Peters Furniture Award 2020
While this all sounds rather glamorous, sadly I Before I let you get on with reading this brand-new issue,
don’t get to hot foot it around the world attending it is with great excitement that I can finally announce the Phil Davy
woodworking exhibitions, but when smaller events official launch of The Alan Peters Furniture Award 2020. Technical & Consultant Editor
take place within the UK, and especially if they are Do not hesitate in turning to pages 26-27 to discover all the
only a few hours’ drive away, I take the opportunity to details for yourselves, and if you have any queries regarding
attend, learn more about the industry, meet advertisers entry requirements, etc. then please do get in touch and
and readers, and also work on developing new business. we’ll be happy to assist you. Happy woodworking and
One such event was the annual BWF Members’ Day here’s to a fantastic August edition!
(the British Woodworking Federation for those of you
who are unfamiliar), which was held at Hellidon Lakes Enjoy!
in Daventry. Armed with business cards, latest copies
and brand-new roller poster showcasing the magazine,
my colleague and I set up our stand next to Italian
woodworking giants, SCM, who were excited to tell Email [email protected]
We endeavour to ensure all techniques shown in this issue are safe, but take no responsibility for readers’ actions.
Take care when woodworking and always use guards, goggles, masks, hold-down devices and ear protection, and above all, plenty of common sense. Do remember to enjoy yourself, though
www.getwoodworking.com August 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 3

CONTENTS What’s inside?
54 RAISING THE BAR

Realising a pair of folding kitchen ‘bar’ chairs no longer fit the bill,
Robert Couldwell takes to the workshop and goes about making
a replacement set in oak
SEND IN YOUR TOP

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4 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking August 2019 www.getwoodworking.com

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AUGUST 2019
PROJECTS & TURNING TECHNICAL FEATURES

38 Brain teaser 30 The ascertainment of extent 20 Loitering within tent
Inspired by an article in the March 1953 issue Confronted by a mêlée of measuring tools, Robin Gates is off to the beach with his
of The Woodworker, Peter Dunsmore puts a Robin Gates has a field day with squares, dividers, bucket and spade, but not before he’s built
modern spin on this mystifying dovetail puzzle rules and tapes, then makes a handy depth gauge a timber-framed canvas bathing tent from
the August 1930 issue of The Woodworker
60 Tall dark strangers
You won’t recognise Dave Roberts’ style at 26 The Alan Peters Furniture Award 2020
first, but the engineer’s enjoying a change Don’t miss out on the opportunity to be
part of this fantastic new award, which
75 Going potty champions UK furniture making talent while
Phil Davy’s tray is made from recycled oak celebrating the life and work of the late
which will now have a new life in his garden Alan Peters OBE
86 Spinning a yarn 36 The value & cost of furniture making

Perfect for the knitting enthusiast in your life, When it comes to selling and valuing your
Les Thorne shares his take on a yarn bowl 49 Modest designs furniture, Anselm Fraser, Principal of The
design in air-dried ash Edward Hopkins makes a bomb-proof Chippendale International School of Furniture,
Wendy house advises you to start low, be sensible and
pragmatic, but always aim higher and higher
66 Woodworker’s encyclopaedia – part 6
Peter Bishop looks at butt joints, capping rails and 43 Me and my workshop – Doug Tech
carborundum, to name but a few terms Join us as we take a look around the workshop
of Canadian artist, craftsman and kayak
fisherman, Doug Zech
44 The makers’ maker:

Alan Peters’ last project
Andrew Lawton was lucky enough to be involved
in the making of Alan Peters’ last piece of
furniture, and here he recalls the many happy
hours spent with him at his Somerset workshop
back in 2005
REGULARS
3 Welcome 80 Building a giant trebuchet
8 News & courses ON TEST for Outlaw King
9 Timber directory 16 Metabo 12V PowerMaxx John Greeves talks to Fergus Stuart about
15 D&M editorial Combo Set 2.7.4 the work the Scottish team at Carpenter Oak
20 Archive undertook during the construction of a medieval
70 Letters & readers’ tips 18 SKIL 7242 AA Multi Sander trebuchet
73 Around the House
92 Next month 22 DeWalt DCN680D2-GB XR 2.0Ah 98 End-grain
97 Marketplace brushless finish nailer kit Downhill all the way
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Published by MyTimeMedia Ltd. Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger
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Suite 25, Eden House Enterprise Way,
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SUBSCRIPTIONS
UK – New, Renewals & Enquiries CONTRIBUTORS MANAGEMENT
Tel: 0344 243 9023 Phil Davy, Robin Gates, Jamie Smith, Peter Dunsmore, Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger
Email: [email protected] Doug Zech, Andrew Lawton, Edward Hopkins, Robert Couldwell, Email: [email protected]
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Tel: (001) 866 647 9191
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of the magazine contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or for any loss however arising from such errors, including loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance
placed upon the contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk. The Woodworker, & Good Woodworking ISSN 2632-3370, is published 13 times a year by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF, UK.
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NEWS In brief...
PETER SEFTON DIARY – AUGUST

FURNITURE 8–9* Woodturning
12 Pen turning
SCHOOL 13 Tool sharpening
OPEN DAY 2019 15 Bandsaws

21–22 Intro to the small engineering lathe
The Peter Sefton Furniture School in * Course held in Sittingbourne, Kent
Worcestershire is having an open day Axminster Tools & Machinery
on Saturday 13 July, from 10am to 3pm. Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue
The Furniture School offers a wide range Axminster, Devon EX13 5PH
of long and short woodworking and furniture Tel: 08009 751 905
making courses to small groups. the school’s Designer and Maker in Residence, Web: www.axminster.co.uk
You will get the chance to meet their expert will be talking about the School’s Professional
tutors, watch professional demonstrations, Long Course and end of year show; Chris Yates, 19–25 Windsor chairmaking
and pick up valuable advice. resident routing tutor, will be demonstrating 24–25 Dulcimer making/cigar box guitar
Along with a stunning furniture exhibition routing techniques and products; Tony Smart, Greenwood Days
of the pieces designed and made on this year’s past Master of The Furniture Makers’ Company, Ferrers Centre for Arts & Crafts
Professional Long Course, Peter Sefton will be will be guest speaker; and there will also be Staunton Harold, Leicestershire LE65 1RU
demonstrating hand tool techniques; Tony Jones a student prize giving, which will take place Tel: 01332 864 529
from Ashcraft Woodturning will be demonstrating with the School’s sponsors: Hammer Felder, Web: www.greenwooddays.co.uk
woodturning techniques and Woodpeckers Whitmores Timber, Mundy Veneers, Fiddes, Wood
Ultra-Shear Turning Tools; Mark Arnott from Workers Workshop and Gordon Russell Museum. 10–11 Tool sharpening & maintenance
www.markarnottclassicalguitars.co.uk will Last but not least, the Wood Club UK will be 11–16 Veneering & laminating
be demonstrating guitar making, including shaping running a free BBQ, and they’ll be hoping for 30–2 Beginners’ four-day course
of the soundboard strutting and neck shaping; donations in return for their hard work flipping Chris Tribe
Artisan Media will be filming at the open day, all those burgers for hungry visitors! Wood Club The Cornmill, Railway Road, Ilkley LS29 8HT
and the Peter Sefton DVD series will also be UK is a group of professionals and hobbyists Tel: 01943 602 836
available for sale; Bob Jones will be demonstrating promoting woodworking, and money raised Web: www.christribefurniturecourses.com
French polishing and traditional finishing; Wood will be used to fund their forum.
Workers Workshop will be open with great deals For more information about the Open Day, 3–4 Sharpening & tuning hand tools
on woodworking tools and products; Sean Feeney, visit www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.com. 5–9 Sharpening & essential cabinetmaking
hand skills
10–11 Cabinetmaking fundamentals
DICKIES RAMPS UP SUPPORT FOR STUDENT COMPETITORS 12–16 Making a table
Dickies is sponsoring this year’s SkillBuild, play a big role in helping trainee tradespeople 19–23 French polishing & modern
SkillELECTRIC, SkillPLUMB and APL Landscaping prepare for a successful career – both in terms hand finishes
competitions, as part of its ongoing efforts to of comfort, practicality and safety as well John Lloyd Fine Furniture
support and champion the next generation of as creating a professional image. We wish Bankside Farm, Ditchling Common
tradespeople. Sponsorship will include clothing all contestants taking part in this year’s Burgess Hill, East Sussex RH15 0SJ
and safety footwear for all national final competitions the best of luck.” Tel: 01444 480 388
contestants, plus T-shirts for competitors at The agreement follows Dickies’ sponsorship Web: www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk
the regional qualifier stage, in which more than of the SkillBuild UK National Final 2018.
1,000 students compete. Dickies will also provide Contestants also received a hoodie, discount 10 Introduction to green woodworking
clothing and footwear for judges and delivery voucher and backpack for taking part, plus 31–1 Coracle making
teams at the national finals, which will take winners in all categories were handed a Weald & Downland Living Museum
place at WorldSkills UK LIVE 2019, the UK’s £50 Dickies voucher. To find out more, Singleton, Chichester, West Sussex
largest skills, apprenticeships and careers event. see www.dickiesworkwear.com. PO18 0EU
“We’re keen to help show the next generation Tel: 01243 811 021
that a job in the trades can be a great career and Web: www.wealddown.co.uk
these competitions are an ideal way to do that,”
said James Whitaker, Marketing Director, Dickies 3–4 Make a wooden hand plane
Workwear. “Supporting the contestants at the Robinson House Studio Furniture School
SkillBuild UK National Final was a real highlight for Robinson Road, Newhaven
Dickies in 2018 and the passion and enthusiasm East Sussex BN9 9BL
they had for their trades was inspiring to see. Tel: 01273 513 611
“Having the right workwear for the job can Web: www.marcfish.co.uk
17,000 PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY

TIMBER DIRECTORY
The Woodworker Timber Suppliers Directory – August 2019

Adhectic Ltd (Berkshire) Fulham Timber (London) S.L. Hardwoods (Croydon)
Tel: 01235 520 738 Tel: 0208 685 5340 Tel: 020 3051 4794
Web: www.adhectic.co.uk Web: www.fulhamtimber.co.uk Web: www.slhardwoods.co.uk
A Harrison (Northants) G&S Specialist Timber (Cumbria) St. Andrews Timber (Scotland)
Tel: 01536 725 192 Tel: 01768 891 445 Tel: 01316 611 333
Web: www.aharrisonwoodturning.co.uk Web: www.toolsandtimber.co.uk Web: www.standrewstimbersupplies.
co.uk
Bennetts Timber (Lincolnshire) Good Timber (Northamptonshire)
Tel: 01472 350 151 Tel: 01327 344 550 Surrey Timbers Ltd (Guildford)
Web: www.bennettstimber.co.uk Web: www.goodtimber.com Tel: 01483 457 826
Web: www.surreytimbers.co.uk
Black Isle Woodturning (Scotland) Horndon Timber Products
Tel: 07842 189 743 Unit 8-9 Orsett Industrial Park Sykes Timber (Warwickshire)
Web: www.blackislewoodturning.com Stanford Road, Orsett, Grays Tel: 01827 718 951
Essex. RM16 3BX
Tel: 01375 679 999 Web: www.sykestimber.co.uk
Brodies Timber (Perthshire) Web: [email protected]
Tel: 01350 727 723 The Timber Mill (Cornwall)
Web: www.brodiestimber.co.uk Interesting Timbers (Somerset) Tel: 07966 396 419
Tel: 01761 241 333 Web: www.thetimbermill.com
Brooks Brothers Timber (Essex) Web: www.interestingtimbers.co.uk
Tel: 01621 877 400 The Wood Recycling Store (East Sussex)
Web: www.brookstimber.co.uk ISCA Woodcrafts (South Wales) Tel: 01273 570 500
Tel: 01633 810 148/07854 349 045 Web: www.woodrecycling.org.uk
C&G Barrett Ltd, Cilfiegan Sawmill Web: www.iscawoodcrafts.co.uk
(South Wales) Thorogood Timber Ltd (Essex)
Tel: 01291 672 805 Joyce Timber (London) Tel: 01206 233 100
Web: www.cilfiegansawmill.com Tel: 0208 883 1610 Web: www.thorogood.co.uk
Web: www.joycetimber.co.uk
Clive Walker Timber Ltd (West Yorkshire) Timberman (Carmarthenshire)
Tel: 01132 704 928 Lincolnshire Woodcraft (Lincolnshire) Tel: 01267 232 621
Web: www.clivewalkertimber.co.uk Tel: 01780 757 825 Web: www.timberman.co.uk
Web: www.lincolnshirewoodcraft.co.uk
D Emmerson Timber (Lincolnshire) Tree Station (Lancashire)
Tel: 01507 524 728 Nottage Timber (South Wales) Tel: 01612 313 333
Web: www.emmersontimber.co.uk Tel: 01656 745 959 Web: www.treestation.co.uk
Web: www.nottagetimber.co.uk
Earlswood Interiors (West Midlands) UK Timber Ltd (Northamptonshire)
Tel: 01564 703 706 Ockenden Timber (Powys) Tel: 01536 267 107
Web: www.earlswoodinteriors.co.uk Tel: 01588 620 884 Web: www.uk-timber.co.uk
Web: www.ockenden-timber.co.uk
English Woodlands Timber (West Sussex) Waterloo Timber Ltd (Lancashire)
Tel: 01730 816 941 Olivers Woodturning (Kent) Tel: 01200 423 263
Web: www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk Tel: 01622 370 280
Web: www.oliverswoodturning.co.uk Web: No website
Exotic Hardwoods (Kent) Oxford Wood Recycling (Oxfordshire) Wenban Smith (West Sussex)
Tel: 01732 355 626 Tel: 01235 861 228 Tel: 01903 230 311
Web: www.exotichardwoods.co.uk Web: www.owr.org.uk Web: www.wenbans.com
EO Burton, Thorndon Sawmills (Essex) Stiles & Bates (Kent) Wentwood Timber Centre (South Wales)
Tel: 01277 260 810 Tel: 01304 366 360 Tel: 01633 400 720
Web: www.eoburton.com Web: www.stilesandbates.co.uk Web: www.wentwoodtimbercentre.co.uk
Eynsham Park Sawmill (Oxfordshire) Scadding Timber (Avon) W L West & Sons Ltd (Surrey)
Tel: 01993 881 391 Tel: 01179 556 032 Tel: 01798 861 611
Web: www.eynshamparksawmill.co.uk Web: www.scadding-son-ltd.co.uk Web: www.wlwest.co.uk
FH Ives (Essex) Scawton Sawmill (North Yorkshire) Yandle & Sons Ltd (Somerset)
Tel: 01268 732 373 Tel: 01845 597 733 Tel: 01935 822 207
Web: www.fhives.com Web: www.scawtonsawmill.co.uk Web: www.yandles.co.uk
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NEWS In brief...
WOOD CONSTRUCTION COMPANY USES PROFESSIONAL

POWER TOOLS FROM BOSCH FOR A SAFE OUTLOOK
The view over the Traunstein mountain does function, which comes with the GSR 18V-60
not bode well. Dark clouds hang over the peaks FC Professional cordless drill/driver, offers
of the Upper Austrian Prealps and herald the immediate protection. If the drill becomes
start of a summer storm with a grumble. “The jammed, the integrated sensor detects the
weather can turn quickly here in the mountains. sudden blockage and switches off the motor
During this phase of construction, the support within a fraction of a second. “When you are
structure must be properly secured so that the working at heights of 40m, there must never
tower remains stable,” explains Christian Ortner, be any situation in which you lose control.
Carpenter and Site Manager at Wiehag GmbH. “The recoil protection provides peace of mind,”
For him, the sudden change in weather is one of says Christian. For screwdriving and drilling
many challenges that comes with working in work in difficult-to-reach areas, he can
this area. His construction site is the Grünberg mountain, the smaller, also be extremely flexible with the 18V cordless drill/driver. “Thanks
forest-covered brother of the rugged Traunstein, which is used as to the FlexiClick adaptors, I can use it to screwdrive around corners
preparation for summiteers these days. Erlebnis Akademie AG, which and very close to edges, or I can use it as a rotary hammer,” he explains.
specialises in nature-friendly treetop walkway concepts in Europe,
is creating a natural experience here with new perspectives. The Reaching the summit in terms of safety
Salzkammergut treetop walkway, on which you can stroll 1,400m The approaching storm puts the workers under more pressure. Before
through the treetops to the viewing tower above the forest, leads you wind and rain reach the tower, several steel connections that absorb the
to a breath-taking view of the landscape. The construction of the tower forces from the support structure still need to be installed. In between,
was undertaken by Wiehag GmbH, who know their way around such Christian constantly has to measure and re-measure. “Building the tower
projects thanks to their extraordinary wood construction feats on an is precision work; its bridge is screwed in like a rising spiral. Everything
international level. “With nine viewing towers, we are now experts. has to fit together. This is the only way that the circle will be formed
No two towers are the same. For me personally, this will be the third at the top,” he says, before the lifting platform brings him back down.
tower that I have built,” says Christian. Once down, he changes to a GWS 18V-10 SC Professional cordless angle
grinder and trims armouring iron that protrudes from the foundations.
On top of the world “Optimum control also increases the protection here,” he says, and
There is little time left to construct the tower, which consists of 80% goes on to talk about the braking function offered by the cordless angle
weather-resistant wood such as larch and Douglas fir, is 39m high, grinder. “If a tool takes a long time to come to a complete stop, the risk
and is expected to bear the weight of up to 200,000 visitors each year. of injury is higher. With the braking function, the cutting disc comes to
The project has been ongoing for four weeks, and the construction plan a complete stop within seconds,” he explains, using the GKS 18V-57 G
specifies that only another four weeks remain. Yet the carpenter is keeping Professional cordless hand-held circular saw to demonstrate this
a calm head, with regard to both the schedule and carrying out his work protective function.
at such a great height. “We are a well-coordinated team when it comes The carpenters use this to trim handrails and floorboards or to
to taking on such projects,” he says, and provides further instructions. cut longer workpieces precisely using a guide rail. For thicker beams,
A heavy goods vehicle has slogged up the mountain and the material the GSA 18V-32 Professional cordless reciprocating saw is a permanent
needs to be unloaded. “The giant support structures are manufactured fixture for the team because it offers long-term protection thanks
in advance and assembled on site. We work with oversized ratchets, but to active vibration damping.
we also use cordless tools. Safety is key here because you do not always A counterweight constantly
have optimum stability when working at heights. Harnesses on the lifting counteracts the inertial forces and
platforms help to prevent us from falling, and cordless tools are used reduces vibrations. “This means that
to protect against kickback or vibrations.” virtually no vibrations are passed
on to the body,” explains Christian.
Occupational health & safety with vision Yet again, he uses the lifting platform
Combi drill, angle grinder, hand-held circular saw, reciprocating saw to take him back up in order to check
– Christian Ortner’s carpentry team uses an extremely wide range of the connecting pieces that have
cordless tools for their woodworking. With professional power tools from just been installed, and to measure
Bosch, they are able to draw upon an extensive system in order to work the supports again.
both efficiently and safely. The spectrum ranges from solutions which For more information on the
immediately minimise the risk of injury to solutions that protect against products described here, see
long-term health risks. For example, the sensor-based KickBack Control www.bosch-professional.co.uk.
DICKIES WORKWEAR UNVEILS LATEST CATALOGUE

Dickies has unveiled its 2019-20 catalogue, featuring a brand-new Marketing Director, Dickies Workwear. “The new catalogue provides a
layout plus 17 new products, including a selection of shorts and T-shirts. greater level of technical information than previous editions, all presented
The catalogue is over 300 pages long – the largest ever published by in a manner that’s easy to understand. This will help our customers to
Dickies – and the new design aims to make it simple for tradespeople choose workwear that meets their requirements in terms of both safety
and retailers to use. For example, footwear products are split according and practicality.”
to safety classifications, while other sections include hi-vis, trousers New products include the Dickies GDT Premium Shorts, with practical
and shorts, tops and outerwear for quick reference. features including a hard-wearing Cordura® pocket, plus wide belt loops
“Workwear is constantly evolving and tradespeople demand more and hip pockets. The catalogue is available to download now at
from their clothing and footwear than ever before,” said James Whitaker, www.dickiesworkwear.com/uk/info/catalogue.

Precision fine sanding
Proxxon TG 125/E Disc Sander
and Self-Adhesive Discs
£187.96 Inc.vat Code 717734 Watch video
proxxon.com
The TG 125/E disc sander is

suitable for all types of wood,
steel, non-ferrous metals,
precious metals, plastics,
Plexiglas and glass fibre.
• Powerful and vibration-free running due
to balanced DC motor
• Aluminium table, adjustable from +50° to -10°
• Housed in a glass fibre reinforced casing
• Fitted with dust extraction for connection
to vacuum
• Package includes 2 packs of corundum sanding g Can be table
discs – 5 discs per pack, 150 grit and 240 grit mounted and
used vertically
for sharpening
For more information or to find a retailer go to tools etc
brimarc.com/proxxon or call 03332 406967

Prices may be subject to change without notice.
NEWS In brief...
CLARKE COMMERCIAL & HEAVY-

DUTY INDUSTRIAL DRUM FANS
A BENCH TO
Commercial drum fans
REMEMBER
These great value robust drum fans It’s a bench that’s been made by many hands
are ideal for commercial and industrial and is now a fitting memorial to a departed
applications, providing a solution for fast colleague. Isobel Edgar was Student Welfare
cooling in large workshops, garages, factories Officer at the Chippendale International School
and more. This range produces an excellent of Furniture, and passed away last month.
amount of air flow, up to 310m3 per minute, She was one of the school’s longest-standing
allowing large areas to be cooled quickly members of staff, having worked with the
and efficiently, with three large fan sizes to Chippendale team for 25 years. The redwood
choose from: 24in, 30in or 36in. All models bench is the school’s way of paying tribute to her and a permanent
feature two handles and are mounted on large rubber wheels for easy reminder of her contribution to the Chippendale school. It was copied
transportation. Models in this range start from £142.80. from an old bench, with all the school’s students and members of staff
contributing a small piece.
Heavy-duty industrial drum fans It’s now situated on school
These high output heavy-duty industrial drum fans are built for long- grounds, on a spot that
term industrial, commercial and agricultural use. These models produce Isobel loved, offering views
an excellent amount of air flow, up to 222m3 per minute, allowing large over the surrounding
areas to be cooled quickly and efficiently. There countryside, and a place
are two fan sizes to choose from, ranging from that will give future
a big 24in to a large 30in. students a place of quiet
All models feature a tilt range of 300° and contemplation. The bench
are mounted on large rubber wheels so the was made under the
fan can be positioned easily and transported supervision of Deputy Principal Tom Fraser, and a sugarplum tree will
to wherever it is required. be planted beside it. “Isobel was a valued member of the Chippendale
Models in this range start from £190.80. school community who worked tirelessly to make our students’ lives
To find out more about both ranges, see as easy as possible,” said
www.machinemart.co.uk. Anselm Fraser, Principal.
“We know that she would
love this memorial to her,
and that every student
SHARPENING MADE EASY and member of staff has
WITH THE ULTIMATE EDGE contributed to it,” he said.

To find out more
The new Ultimate Edge sharpening system is a remarkable machine about courses offered
that will revolutionise sharpening your tools. It really is a tool user’s at the school, see www.
dream, allowing fast repeatable sharpening on all your edge tools, chippendaleschool.com.
which means you will spend less time sharpening and more time making.
As the name suggests, it is the ultimate in sharpening machines.
However, it is much more than just a sharpening machine. The belt
can be positioned horizontally allowing linishing and flat sanding jobs general linishing. It locks securely to the bar of the Compound Jig and
to be carried out. It is also an effective polishing and honing machine, has a quadrant of angles laser-marked for easy reference.
utilising the unique ‘Twist n Fix’ multi-purpose arbor. This feature enables The Honing Guide Assembly is perfect for grinding joinery chisels and
the almost instant change of different mops, felt wheels and profiling plane blades, and fits onto the bar of the Compound Jig. The jaws are
wheels. The ability to change these so quickly ensures the process dovetail in shape, allowing the chisel to be firmly clamped against the
of starting coarse and finishing with fine is always followed. Whether body. The jaws accommodate chisels 6-66mm in width.
you are a woodworker, woodturner, restorer or carver, life will be A single-speed version is also available. With its 375W motor, it can
much easier with the Ultimate Edge. handle most light-duty work in the workshop, including light grinding
Two versions are available: a deluxe variable-speed model and sharpening of lathe tools. This linisher-grinder-sharpener is perfect
and a single-speed model. The deluxe machine for metal-based hobbies.
has a 560W motor, which drives a 50mm wide While ideal for sharpening lathe tools, the
belt; with forward and reverse movements, Ultimate Edge is also excellent for rejuvenating
it has high torque and is quiet running. Belt and removing rust from old tools.
tracking is quick and easy: a quarter turn
of a knurled knob covers everything. Deluxe variable-speed version –
To take full advantage of the versatility of this £379.96 (inc VAT)
machine, you will also need the Compound Guide Fixed single-speed version –
Jig. This is the starting point for the majority £329.95 (inc VAT)
of accessories. The jig has a solid and fully (Please note that prices may be subject
adjustable silver steel bar on which sharpening to change without notice.)
guides, accessories and some Tormek jigs can
be mounted. Additionally, a Universal Sharpening For more information, please visit
Table is available; it has a large surface and is the Axminster Trade brand store:
ideal for freehand lathe tool sharpening and www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade.

NEW GORILLA CONTACT
ADHESIVE CLEAR
Gorilla Contact Adhesive Clear is a wonderfully
versatile, hands-on glue that dries crystal clear
Quality Tools to
while being extremely versatile. It gives users
ultimate control, is flexible, repositionable and
can hold in seconds. Gorilla Contact Adhesive
match our Service
Clear bonds everything from fabric and leather,
to wood and paper. This tough glue doesn’t drip
or run, but it does provide a permanent bond
that is 100% waterproof. For hobbyists, crafters
or DIYers, this product is the perfect solution. The Ultimate
Gorilla Contact Adhesive Clear is available Woodturning Lathe
in a 75g tube, with an RRP of £6.49 and can Mouldings

Made in Germany
be purchased from B&Q and Homebase.
Top quality
Hand Certified
Tools Hardwoods
Toishi-Ohishi
Japanese
Waterstones
Drilling Tools made to the

highest standard
G&S
ENTROPY RESINS – Specialist
NEW ONLINE STORE LAUNCHED Timber
FOR EUROPEAN CUSTOMERS TOOLS AND MACHINERY
www.toolsandtimber.co.uk
Wessex Resins and Adhesives is delighted to announce the launch of you can order online now
a new online store to facilitate ordering the unique range of bio-based
epoxy: Entropy Resins. The EU online store has been added to the current
North American website www.entropyresins.com and will support the
existing network of distributors and retailers.
Entropy Resins are used in a variety of applications, from coating
Bottle Stoppers made
and laminating at room temperature, compression moulding, and casting from food safe
and embedding, to produce water clear, UV-stable finishes. Due to their stainless steel, FREE
Blank included
sustainability credentials, Entropy Resins are used extensively by action
sport goods manufacturers for the construction of such items as surf
and snowboards. The range is already a firm favourite among makers
and creatives who love its usability and physical properties – stunning
end results can be created with clear casting, like ‘river’ tables.
“The market take-up of Entropy Resins has been phenomenal in the
pfeil
last four months,” says Ian Oliver, Managing Director, Wessex Resins and
Adhesives. “We’ve been servicing orders from across Europe, the Middle
East, Turkey, Africa and India. Manufacturers and individuals are finding
all sorts of applications for Entropy Resins, from high-end sports products
to jewellery. We’re always delighted at the ingenious uses of the epoxy
brands we manufacture (West System and Pro-Set epoxy) and Entropy
Resins are proving no different. That’s why we’ve worked with our
American partners to create this website, making it as straightforward
as possible to order online.”
As well as the shop facility the website details applications, product
information and data sheets and has lots
of useful facts to help new, or professional
users, to choose and order Entropy Resins.
Wessex Resins and Adhesives
WE ARE EASY TO FIND:
manufactures and supplies Entropy Resins, 11/2 miles from the M6, J40.
West System and Pro-Set epoxy from its Take the A66 towards Keswick, Open 8am to 5pm daily.
turn left at first roundabout, 10am to 5pm Saturday.
head office in Romsey, Hampshire. All follow the Brown Signs to Closed Sunday.
three brands are manufactured under The Alpaca Centre.
G&S SPECIALIST TIMBER
licence from Gougeon Brothers, Inc.; The Alpaca Centre, Snuff Mill Lane, Stainton, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0ES.
Tel: 01768 891445. Fax: 01768 891443. email: [email protected]
see www.epoxycraft.com.

THE UK’s PREMIER BRANDED HAND, POWER TOOLS & MACHINERY EVENT
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D&M TOOLS, TWICKENHAM • 020 8892 3813 • DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
What’s new from

‘THE’ TOOL SPECIALISTS ● WWW.DM-TOOLS.CO.UK ● 0208 892 3813
TREND CRAFT PRO QUICK RELEASE SYSTEM SETS

MANUFACTURER: Trend
D&M GUIDE PRICE: CR/QR/SET1 (30pc) – £37.95
CR/QR/SET2 (60pc) – £69.95 (prices inc VAT)
Covering a multitude of applications across different trade and hobby

platforms, the new Trend 60-piece Craft Pro Quick Change Bit Set
is the all-round Swiss Army accessory set at an affordable price
that doesn’t compromise quality. The comprehensive set is housed
in a heavy-duty fabric wallet to keep everything secure and close
to hand whenever needed and includes four masonry drills from
5-8mm, covering common wall plug sizes for all brick, block, tile
and stone drilling work. The set caters for all your drilling, driving
and countersinking needs and with the standard hex shank design,
offers quick changeovers between functions for fast and efficient
working practices and increased productivity.
Also available, the Trend 30-piece Craft Pro Quick Release Bit Set
is suitable for a popular range of drills, countersinks, driver bits and
bit holders, and covers a range of applications for the hobbyist and
tradesman alike, and with the inclusion of 25mm and 19mm flat
bits, is especially suited to lock fitting work and other associated
door hanging tasks. It is supplied in a durable heavy-duty holder
to keep everything securely stored and easily accessible. Full details
can be found on our website.
MAKITA DRS780Z 36V LXT BRUSHLESS CIRCULAR SAW

MANUFACTURER: Makita
D&M GUIDE PRICE: £239.95 (inc VAT)
Makita, a pioneer in brushless motor technology and battery
innovation, combines both in the 18V X2 LXT® (36V) Lithium-ion
Brushless rear handle DRS780Z circular saw. It’s powered by two
18V LXT® Lithium-ion batteries (sold separately) for maximum
performance and has an electronically-controlled BL™ Brushless
motor that matches torque and RPM to the application. Makita 18V
X2 means freedom from the cord, even for demanding applications
such as cutting sheet and dimensional lumber, which traditionally
called for a corded saw.
The DRS780Z has a long list of features for efficient cutting without
the cord. Users of leading corded saws will appreciate the blade-left
rear-handle design. The electronically-controlled brushless motor
delivers a full 5,100rpm for efficient cutting, and added features
include a large 65mm cutting capacity at 90º, and an electric brake
for maximum productivity. The saw has a die-cast magnesium base
and blade guard with die-cast aluminium blade cover and motor
housing, which combines durability with less weight (only 5.6kg
with batteries – sold separately).
PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE – WWW.DM-TOOLS.CO.UK – FOR THE LATEST PRICES AND DEALS
ON TEST Metabo 12V PowerMaxx Combo Set 2.7.4 12V BL
METABO 12V
POWERMAXX
COMBO SET 2.7.4
Compact, spot-on ergonomically and
capable of serious drilling and screwdriving
tasks between them, Phil Davy is a big
fan of this Combo Set from Metabo
here are several professional power alongside. With the charger provided it takes this to less than 120mm. Although standing
T tool brands in the UK which aren’t

always as prominent as they deserve
to be. Metabo are among them, but
with extensive new ranges of both 12V and 18V
cordless kit they’re worth checking out if you’re
around 90 minutes to get the 4.0Ah battery
fully charged, and about 45 minutes for the
2.0Ah version. A flashing LED switches to
continuous green when this is reached.
taller than Bosch’s similar 12V FlexiClick drill,
the Metabo is shorter from front to back.
The soft-grip trigger is a decent size, with
standard forward/reverse button above it.
With a selector slider up top, the variable speed
considering buying a serious drill or similar tool. PowerMaxx BS 12 BL Q range is from 0-500rpm and 0-1,650rpm,
This new PowerMaxx 12V twin pack includes cordless drill/driver depending on the gear chosen. Squeezing the
a drill/driver and impact driver, plus two Li-ion Metabo’s PowerMaxx BS12 BL Q drill/driver is trigger activates a bright white LED worklight
batteries and charger, all in a sturdy MetaLoc sleek, compact and fits your hand snugly when at the base of the handle.
storage case. Either tool is available separately, picked up. There’s plenty of textured rubber for This drill features Metabo’s Quick System,
with or without batteries. Unusually for a grip and with a 4.0Ah battery on board weighs meaning you can remove the chuck rapidly by
twin-tool kit, Metabo include two different just 1.1kg. To release the pack you simply push a grasping its red, spring-loaded collar. You don’t
batteries: a standard 2.0Ah Li-Power pack red locking button and slide it off. Steel belt hooks need to take out a bit first, so you can switch
and a more advanced 4.0Ah LiHD unit, which are provided for both tools and can be screwed between drilling or inserting screws easily. Chuck
offers higher performance. This way you have to either side of the handle. Each tool also has capacity is only 10mm, though you’d not expect
the extended run time of a larger battery, with a magnetic bit holder, fitted in the same way. anything bigger on a 12V tool. Three steel jaws
a lower capacity unit as back-up or when space Equipped with a brushless motor means overall will grip a bit down to 1.5mm diameter, so the
is really tight, without unnecessary extra expense. distance from chuck tip to the back of the tool is tool is ideal for small-scale drilling tasks. That
In terms of physical size the 4.0Ah battery isn’t just 160mm. Removing the chuck reduces said, it easily handled large diameter flat bits
significantly larger. Both packs feature a green when drilling into oak.
LED fuel display by depressing the small button A standard magnetic hex collar is revealed
with the chuck removed, enabling you to insert
a Pozi bit or any accessory with a hex shank.
Easy to read, a 20-way torque collar is fitted,
which clicks positively at each stop as it’s rotated.
Maximum torque is 45Nm, depending on the
material density you’re driving screws into.
Metabo accessories
To increase versatility of the drill/driver you
can add either an offset angle attachment or
a 90° chuck adaptor. These both feature the
Quick System, so mounting on the tool is dead
Unusually for a twin-tool kit, Metabo include two easy. When working in confined spaces these
different batteries: a standard 2.0Ah Li-Power pack Metabo’s PowerMaxx BS12 BL Q drill/driver is sleek, accessories can be really handy, making certain
and a more advanced 4.0Ah LiHD unit, which offers compact and fits your hand snugly when picked up cabinetmaking or shopfitting tasks far more
higher performance convenient than using a straight, in-line tool.
To release the pack you simply push a red locking Steel belt hooks are provided for both tools With a selector slider up top, the variable speed range
button and slide it off and can be screwed to either side of the handle is from 0-500rpm and 0-1,650rpm, depending on
the gear chosen

This drill features Metabo’s Quick System, meaning A standard magnetic hex collar is revealed with Maximum torque is 45Nm, depending on the
you can remove the chuck rapidly by grasping its red, the chuck removed, enabling you to insert a Pozi material density you’re driving screws into
spring-loaded collar bit or any accessory with a hex shank
The offset attachment costs around £70 and the PowerMaxx SSD 12 BL is a good example Conclusion
offers 12 pre-set positions, selected by sliding of this. Virtually the same size as the drill/ Both these Metabo tools feature brushless
the red Quick sleeve and rotating the end. driver, this tool has two variable speeds, from motors, so are compact and spot-on
Accepting hex bits only (it has a spring-loaded 0-1,250rpm and 0-2,500rpm. This translates ergonomically. Between them they’re capable
collar), enables you to insert screws tight into to a maximum 2,000 or 4,000bpm (blows per of serious drilling and screwdriving tasks, whether
a corner of a cupboard or similarly tight space. minute), with maximum torque of 70 or 140Nm, you’re involved in making furniture or on-site
Fitted the same way, the fixed 90° adaptor depending on the speed selected. Hex bits fit carpentry. Unlike some pro 12V tools, either
costs about £37 and again has 12 settings. into a standard spring-loaded holder. As with model will stand neatly on the bench without
It’s equipped with a magnetic hex collar. any impact driver, it’s a good idea to wear ear tipping over, even with a sizeable bit fitted. I can
defenders when using it for extended periods. see the BS12 BL Q drill/driver becoming a firm
PowerMaxx SSD 12 BL Rather than relying on mechanical speed and favourite with cabinetmakers and shopfitters,
cordless impact driver torque selection, here it’s electronic. Pressing or as a reliable workshop tool. Remember there’s
You don’t necessarily need the muscle of an 18V the button (adjacent to the LED worklight) no hammer action, though.
impact driver for many screwdriving tasks, and changes this instantly, whether the motor For jobs where you need to swap frequently
is running or not. A red LED indicates when between drilling and driving screws, Metabo’s
the lower speed setting has been selected. Quick System is fantastic. Build quality is superb,
Again, a lightweight tool almost identical in with a warranty of three years.
size to the drill/driver, overall weight is 1.05kg
with a 4.0Ah battery fitted. So where would you
use it? Building stud walls, installing outdoor SPECIFICATION
decking or many projects that need heavy PowerMaxx BS 12 BL Q cordless drill/driver
gauge screws where you don’t want to Maximum torque – soft: 18Nm
bother with pilot holes. Maximum torque – hard: 45Nm
Adjustable torque: 0.5-5Nm
Drill Ø steel: 10mm
Drill Ø softwood: 25mm
No-load speed: 0-500/0-1,650rpm
The offset attachment costs around £70 and offers Chuck capacity: 1.5-10mm
12 pre-set positions, selected by sliding the red Quick Weight (inc battery pack): 1kg
sleeve and rotating the end
PowerMaxx SSD 12 BL cordless impact driver
Maximum no-load speed: 0-2,500rpm
Maximum impact rate: 4,000bpm
Maximum torque: 140Nm
Speed/torque levels: 2
Fitted the same way, the fixed 90° adaptor Bit retainer: Hexagon recess 14⁄ in (6.35mm)
costs about £37 and again has 12 settings Weight (inc battery pack): 1kg
Typical price: £370

Web: www.metabo.com/uk
THE VERDICT
PROS
Build quality; compact; excellent
ergonomics; 2.0Ah & 4.0Ah batteries
included; M-Quick System chuck
CONS
Not a combi drill, so no hammer action
You don’t necessarily need the muscle of an 18V On the impact driver, hex bits fit into a standard
impact driver for many screwdriving tasks, and the spring-loaded holder RATING: 5 out of 5
PowerMaxx SSD 12 BL is a good example of this

ON TEST SKIL 7242 AA Multi Sander
SKIL 7242
AA MULTI
SANDER
This versatile offering from
SKIL is fine for occasional
sanding jobs, though don’t
expect to use it for hours
on end, says Phil Davy For sanding convex profiles
one pad has a flexible strap,
S
KIL is another power tool name which uses square-format sheets
that may not be too familiar to newer (approximately 54 × 54mm).
woodworkers. Famous for the once The final base is a finger pad
ubiquitous SKIL saw, this DIY brand (approximately 87 × 32mm), which is
is now available through B&Q stores. Over the ideal for sanding louvred doors or similarly
years it has changed its livery and is now a rather fairly common size (approximately 100 × 150mm) restricted areas.
snappier red, certainly more eye-catching than in this style. Abrasive sheets to fit similar sanders Although several abrasive sheets of different
before. As well as a new range of 20V cordless of other brands may vary slightly in size, though size are included, these are 120 grit only. A few
tools, they produce plenty of mains-powered if necessary you could trim them to fit the SKIL. at 80 grit would have been welcome, particularly
products, too. The punched hole pattern is unlikely to match for stripping paintwork or varnish. Only the larger
The Multi Sander concept is not new, the exactly, though. delta sheets are punched for dust extraction,
format available from a couple of brands in the SKIL’s Clic system features fast, tool-free though. On the plus side it’s fairly easy to create
past, including both SKIL and Black & Decker. pad removal. Moving the lever sideways your own abrasives, providing you can find
Interchangeable bases can be swapped to suit releases the forward delta pad, which can suitable hook-and-loop sheets. Simply use
the surface you’re sanding, whether this is flat, then be substituted for another rigid extension a craft knife to cut the shape needed, using
contoured or when working tight into a corner. pad. There are three provided, each with lugs the tool itself as a template.
that simply click into the base. Sliding the
Clic system lever back again locks the plate to the tool. Brushed motor
Essentially, this SKIL 4-in-1 model is an orbital One of the extension pads uses regular The Multi Sander has textured rubber around
tool with palm sander base. It accepts hook-and- (approximately 93 × 93mm) triangular sheets, the top of the body to improve grip, while the
loop-backed sanding sheets, which tend to be a while the other two are more specialised. on/off rocker switch is shrouded against dust.
Interchangeable bases can be swapped to suit The Multi Sander accepts hook-and-loop-backed SKIL’s Clic system features fast, tool-free pad removal
the surface you’re sanding, whether this is flat, sanding sheets, which tend to be a fairly common
contoured or when working tight into a corner size (approximately 100 × 150mm) in this style
Moving the lever sideways releases the forward There are three provided, each with lugs that simply Sliding the lever back again locks the plate to the tool
delta pad, which can then be substituted for another click into the base
rigid extension pad

For sanding convex profiles one pad has a flexible The final base is a finger pad, which is ideal for The tool itself has textured rubber around the top
strap, which uses square-format sheets sanding louvred doors or similarly restricted areas of the body to improve grip, while the on/off rocker
switch is shrouded against dust
It’s fairly lightweight at 1.05kg, while cable A rigid Micro-Filtration dust canister clips In use
length is adequate at 2.7m. securely to the rear port, and with a paper filter This is not a random orbit tool, so some swirls
A brushed motor (rated at 160W) means the it’s arguably more efficient than a fabric dustbag. on the surface are inevitable when sanding.
SKIL is quite noisy, and its single fixed speed You can’t actually dismantle the clear plastic box Swapping from one pad to another is certainly
of 14,500rpm means you can’t reduce this to if you want to rinse the filter, though. Emptying convenient, with the flexible pad option
lower the sound level. Suitable ear defenders the canister is simple enough, however. A vacuum particularly handy for convex sanding. I found
are therefore highly recommended for periods hose adaptor is included, so hooking up an there was a tendency for the abrasive to stick
of extended sanding. external extractor isn’t a problem. as you moved this pad along a rounded edge,
though this could have been the combined
effect of several layers of paint. The tool is light
enough for extended overhead or vertical sanding,
without suffering arm ache at the same time. Its
Micro-Filtration box works well enough (when
using punched paper), though capacity is limited.
Not a big problem, though in a workshop you’re
probably better off using an extractor anyway.
Conclusion
The SKIL Multi Sander is more versatile than most
budget sanders, particularly if you’re faced with a
A rigid Micro-Filtration dust canister clips securely You can’t actually dismantle the clear plastic box house renovation project or similar work. If you’re
to the rear port if you want to rinse the filter, though. Emptying keen on upcycling old furniture, this tool would be
the canister is simple enough, however suitable for cleaning up chair and table legs, stair
spindles, louvred doors and suchlike. As a DIY tool
it’s fine for occasional sanding jobs, though don’t
expect to use it for hours on end.
SPECIFICATION
Input: 160W
Sanding movements: 29,000pm
Sanding orbit Ø: 1.6mm
Turnable delta tip size: 93mm
Weight: 1.6kg
Voltage: 220-240V
Sound pressure level: 80.0dB(A)
A vacuum hose adaptor is included, so hooking Swapping from one pad to another is certainly In the box: SKIL 7242 Multi Sander; 12 × sanding
up an external extractor isn’t a problem convenient, with the flexible pad option particularly sheets; turnable delta tip; 3 × special sanding
handy for convex sanding attachments; Micro-Filtration dust box; Vacuum
cleaner adaptor; instruction manual
Typical price: £45

Web: www.skil.com; www.diy.com
THE VERDICT
PROS
Four sanding options; easy to swap pads
CONS
Quite noisy; single speed
The tool is light enough for extended overhead As a DIY tool it’s fine for occasional sanding jobs
or vertical sanding, without suffering arm ache RATING: 3.5 out of 5
at the same time

FEATURE Archive
Loitering within tent

Robin Gates is off to the beach with his bucket and spade, but not before he’s built
a timber-framed canvas bathing tent from the August 1930 issue of The Woodworker
S
un hat, sun cream, shades, towel,
trunks, bucket, spade, latest issue of The
Woodworker – have I forgotten anything
for my trip to the beach this afternoon?
Yes, the bathing tent! I’ll need something safer
than a slipping towel while getting changed,
and not one of those pop-up plastic affairs
designed for garden gnomes, later to be found
in pieces littering the dunes and spilling around
bins along the promenade. I’m talking about
proper accommodation with standing headroom,
for which we need turn to our August 1930 issue
of this journal, page 229 (pages were numbered
consecutively through the year in those days;
each issue was about 30 pages).
The satisfaction of a job well done

In the context of traditional wooden deck
chairs and a solid clinker-built boat drawn up
on the beach, this stripy four-square structure
looks perfect. Just out of view, I’m sure there’s
a paddle-steamer coming alongside the pier,
while the dulcet tones of a silver band drift down
from the esplanade. We want nothing rushed,
nothing simply cheap and convenient; it’s quality
we’re after, and the satisfaction of a job well done.
For materials we’re looking at around 16m
of 25mm diameter wooden rod, some 9sq.m of
canvas, various metal ferrules, screw eyes, spikes,
perhaps 10m of three-strand line, four toggles
and four pegs. Although, wooden pegs in shifting
sand are unlikely to prove successful, so perhaps
substitute four canvas bags to be filled with
pebbles to serve as anchors. Now it occurs to
me that, despite the author’s assurance, it’ll
be ‘light and may be packed up quite small’
this portable bathing tent will either require
a porter to assist with carrying it to the beach,
or we’ll have to construct a small trolley or sled
for the purpose.
But it’ll be worth it, because as the author
also says, the tent may be used for a lot more
besides bathing. As a bijou retreat from the
burning midday sun, for example, a latrine
at the campsite, or perhaps as a bird hide explanatory how the thing goes together. holes, with heads subsequently filed off,
if clothed in a more subdued fabric. Just three points to add. First, behind the few or drill holes for dowels to be glued in place.
Before construction begins, we might ask, words ‘A canvas covering is made to fit over the One more thing, perhaps as revealing about
would it actually make more sense to opt for frame’, I suggest there lies a good deal of careful me as about tents per se – they’re also great
modern materials? Ultra-lightweight struts, measuring, cutting, and heavy sewing with twine for eavesdropping. There’s nothing like the thin
Nylon fabric, clips and line? In my opinion, no. and needle. Second, for eyelets, where the spikes sound-permeable wall of a tent to lull people
Having seen, indeed been the cause of some pass through the canvas, I’d suggest holes be into a false sense of confidentiality, whether
near-catastrophic events involving lightweight sewn around to prevent tearing, otherwise fitted sheltering behind it or merely passing by.
tents, if we were to build this design to minimum with metal grommets. And third, regarding the The things I’ve heard!
weight I fear that, in any kind of a sea breeze, spikes themselves, hammering the suggested Well, sad to say the sun’s gone in and the
we’d soon discover we had a large and unwieldy long nails into small diameter wooden rods tide’s gone out now that we’re finished, but
box kite taking to the skies. could lead to the kind of side-splitting results they’ll be back again tomorrow, and the forecast
Getting down to business, it’s fairly self- that aren’t funny. I’d either use screws in pilot is looking even better.

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ON TEST DeWalt DCN680D2-GB 18V XR 2.0Ah brushless finish nailer kit
DEWALT DCN680D2-GB
XR 2.0AH BRUSHLESS
FINISH NAILER KIT
Jamie Smith of Atelier Cabinet Makers looks
at the latest generation 18V XR Li-ion brushless
18Ga finish nailer from DeWalt, which offers
the cutting edge in nailing technology
The DCN680D2-GB is the latest generation stackable, lightweight case, which is well
18V Li-ion brushless 18Ga nailer from DeWalt, built and lined with thick foam compartments,
forming part of their XR range – an ever- so the tool and batteries can be kept protected
expanding collection of cordless power tools and all in place.
that run on the DeWalt 18V XR Li-ion batteries.
There are over 140 different tools in the XR range, Compact & easy to use
offering a huge variety of cordless options all The 18Ga nailer weighs 2.6kg and feels quite
on the same battery platform. This is great for evenly balanced when fitted with a battery pack.
tradesmen and hobbyists looking to buy into The tool looks as though it would be more top
a cordless tool platform, as once you have a heavy than it actually is, and with the excellent
couple of batteries, you can purchase other DeWalt ergonomic grip handle, is very comfortable
tools as body-only versions. to hold. The build of the DCN680D2-GB is
incredibly durable and well suited to the job site.
What’s in the box This nailer has a fully mechanical operation
I was sent the DCN680D2-GB for review, which as opposed to gas, which offers low running costs
is supplied in a DeWalt T-Stak VI heavy-duty and consistent performance at low temperatures.
kit box, along with a Multi-Volt XR charger and This means that all you need are your battery
two 2.0Ah XR Li-ion battery packs with state of packs to run the tool. I am used to using an air
charge indicator. The nailer can also be purchased nailer, which means that when working on site
as the body-only option (DCN680N-XJ) for those fitting wardrobes, for example, I would have to
Ergonomic, comfortable DeWalt grip handle already on the XR platform. The T-Stak kit box is a bring my heavy, awkward air compressor from
T-Stak stackable carry case Firing depth adjustment wheel and adjustment Fully mechanical firing mechanism – this means
indication no gas is needed
Headlights and firing mode switch The T-Stak case provides protective organisation 50mm brad nails evenly sunk into solid oak
of the tool, batteries and charger

Loading the nail magazine, which takes 15-54mm The DCN680D2-GB offers great versatility The nail heads have been left exposed using the
18Ga nails in a compact, portable design firing depth adjustment; this enables removal of
nails for temporary applications
the workshop for fitting decorative cornices lift the jam clear latch on the front of the nailer, Conclusion
or plinths. With the DCN680D2-GB, however, which removes the bent nail. When I thought I’d Overall I was very impressed with the
which is more compact overall, I have to admit experienced a jam (which didn’t turn out to be performance of the DCN680D2-GB and would
that I didn’t experience any issues as a result the case after all), the nailer refused to fire and use this in my work on a regular basis. For many
of its smaller stature, and for a majority of uses, this is a clever dry fire lock out feature. This has applications, I found it to be a great time saver
I found it to be a perfect replacement to lugging to be one of my favourites as it prevents the nailer and definitely easier than having to deal with
an air compressor upstairs. from firing before running out of fixings. With a compressor. The noise level is loud and when
other nailers, I’ve found this to be a real nuisance using it, you’re advised to wear ear protection,
In use and allows continuous firing, even though you but this is to be expected with any type of nailer.
This nailer has some excellent features, including may have ran out of fixings 15 shots or more I would highly recommend this tool to anyone
the fact it can accept 18Ga nails in lengths from ago. The magazine of the DCN680D2-GB, looking for a cordless/gas-free finish nailer in
15-54mm. I fired lots of 50mm nails into solid however, holds a maximum of 110 nails. the 18Ga category. It offers great versatility and
oak and found the DCN680D2-GB to handle There are two headlights that clearly illuminate portability in a compact and ergonomic footprint,
this with ease and excellent consistency. There the fixing area, hard-wearing rubber bump pads and I have no hesitation in saying that in my
is a depth adjustment that changes the depth on the nailer body as well as a large belt hook. opinion, it is one of the top competing cordless
at which the fastener is driven, and this is a The charger has colour light charge indicators and finish nailer models currently on the market.
useful feature especially for use in temporary is compatible with other DeWalt 10.8V/14.4V/18V
applications where the nail heads can be left batteries. Switching between sequential and SPECIFICATION
proud of the surface and pulled out or knocked bump firing modes is achieved by engaging the Weight: 2.6kg
in later. The nailer has sequential and bump indicator switch, which is situated at the bottom Voltage: 18V
firing modes, which gives the user the option of of the grip between the headlights. This switch Nail diameter: 1.25mm (18Ga)
a faster firing rate when the bump fire mode is has pictorial indicators to show multi or single Magazine angle: 0°
selected. In this configuration, the trigger is held nails, and allows you to see which mode you Magazine load: Rear
compressed and the nailer fires when the contact have currently selected. The nailer stands Magazine capacity: 110 nails
trip is depressed. This option is best suited for well on the battery pack, or can lay flat on its side. Trigger type: Sequential & bump
the nailing of large, flat stationary surfaces. I (up to four nails per second)
tried firing a lot of varied size nails into different FURTHER INFORMATION Length × width × height: 302 × 96mm × 264mm
timbers and sheet material and didn’t experience To find out more about Atelier Cabinet Makers, Fault indicator: Yes
any nail jams. If a jam does occur in the nosepiece, see their website:
the right-hand headlight will blink continuously. To www.ateliercabinetmakers.com Typical prices: DCN680D2-GB kit – £533;
un-jam is an easy, tool-free process: you simply DCN680N-XJ (body-only tool without batteries,
remove the battery, engage the trigger lock off, T-Stak case or charger) – £391
remove the nails from the magazine and then Web: www.dewalt.co.uk
THE VERDICT
PROS
Excellent nailing capabilities even
with 50mm nails in solid oak; balanced
ergonomic design and comfortable to use;
fully mechanical – no gas needed; cordless
and battery packs compatible with all
other 18V XR power tools; easy tool-free
clearing of any clogged nails; adjustable
depth of drive; safety trigger and contact
trip lock off
CONS
May be too bulky for some applications
in tight areas
Using the finish nailer to fix a wardrobe kicker Using the DCN680D2-GB to fix a wardrobe cornice RATING: 4.5 out of 5
plinth in place

COMPETITION iGaging – Digital Height & Depth Gauge – Snap Check Plus
WIN!
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1 OF 5 iGAGING – DIGITAL HEIGHT
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PLUS – WORTH £19.95 EACH!
Wood Workers Workshop,

we’re giving five lucky
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This handy tool from iGaging makes machine
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Now available for both right- and left-handed
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a versatile measurement gauge.
Snap-Check from iGaging also makes accuracy can be achieved as millimetres are between two surfaces. The 68mm deep throat
woodworking so much more predictable; you’ll displayed in 0.01mm (100th mm) increments; reach makes it one of the only tools to be able
be amazed at how much time you can save decimal inches are displayed in .0005in to measure spindle moulder cutter height and
setting up your equipment and testing joints. increments and fractions in 64ths. depth during set up. The auto off feature saves
Use it on the surface planer to set planer The spring-loaded plunger measures from on battery life and the tool is also supplied with
knives or check the offset between the infeed minus 7mm to plus 52mm, and this unique minus a spare 3V CR2032 battery.
and outfeed tables for depth of cut, for table feature is excellent for checking the depth of hinge
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The Snap Check Plus has a large LCD digital can be used either to calibrate on a flat surface • Easy to use and carry
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• Measuring range: -7 to 52mm
• Accuracy: ±0.001in/1in
• Battery: 3V CR2032 included
For more on Wood Workers Workshop,

visit www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk.
HOW TO ENTER
To be in with a chance of winning 1 of 5 iGaging –
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tools, just visit www.getwoodworking.com/
competitions and answer this simple question:
Q: Name one of the machines

this tool can be used to calibrate
The winners will be randomly drawn from
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Employees of MyTimeMedia Ltd and Wood Workers Workshop
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Organised by
In collaboration with
&
THE
ALAN PETERS
FURNITURE
AWARD 2020
Don’t miss out on the
opportunity to be part
of this prestigious annual
award, which champions
UK furniture designing
and making talent
while celebrating the
life and work of the
late Alan Peters OBE
Alan Peters’ ‘Fan table’

The Alan Peters Furniture Award 2020 FEATURE
PRIZES OFFERED
his newly evolved annual award
T celebrates the legacy of one of Britain’s

most prominent furniture designer-
makers of the late 20th century – Alan
Peters OBE – while aiming to encourage emerging
talent in the craft of furniture design and making.
1st prize
£1,000 Axminster Tools
& Machinery voucher
2nd prize
Any woodworker who is a resident UK citizen
over the age of 18, and who has a passion and £500 Triton Tools voucher
talent for designing and making contemporary
furniture, is invited to submit up to two items of
3rd prize
furniture that echo the philosophy of Alan Peters. £300 Judges’ prize
Judging is based on the appropriate use of wood,
the quality of workmanship, functionality and Winning pieces will be exhibited
originality of design. Both one-off designs and at Axminster’s Nuneaton store and
potential batch-produced designs are encouraged. then at The Wilson Gallery
Applicants should be familiar with the (Cheltenham Art Gallery & Museum).
work of Alan Peters prior to applying and are
encouraged to read Jeremy Broun’s 64-page Award deadline is 30 May 2020.
video-integrated online e-book, which is offered Entries can be submitted any time
free-of-charge (via the website link opposite). up to this date. A £20 entry fee applies
Anais Dancet’s and a maximum of two entries
The man behind the award ‘10 Degrees’ stackable can be made (£20 per entry).
Alan Peters OBE (1933–2009) was one of stool – a 2012 winner
Britain’s most prominent furniture designer- of The Alan Peters The judging ceremony will be held at
makers of the latter part of the 20th century. Award For Excellence Axminster’s Nuneaton store on 29 June
He was apprenticed to Edward Barnsley 2020, and an exhibition at the store will
and had a direct link to the English Arts and Award judges run from 1–13 July 2020.
Crafts Movement. He was hugely influential Jeremy Broun (organiser) – designer-maker
internationally in his practice, teaching and co-exhibitor with Alan Peters 1978–2002; Following this, the pieces will then
and publications. Above all, his respect and Andrew Lawton – designer-maker who worked be exhibited at The Wilson Gallery –
understanding of how wood behaves and the with Alan Peters and on his last commission; dates to be confirmed.
value of hand skill, yet moving tradition forward, Keith Newton – early apprentice and employee
resulted in the creation of many timeless pieces. of Alan Peters for 21 years. To download an application form
He created affordable functional furniture, which and the 64-page e-book, please visit
was made to last, making an art of his craft in www.woodomain.com/
some of his subtle innovations. alanpetersaward. The form can be
found at the right of the page. Payment
History of the award for entry can also be made securely via
The original award was called ‘The Alan Peters the website.
Award For Excellence’ and was initiated by Jason
Heap in 2010. The prize was offered to three For further information, please contact
winners, each of whom were given free exhibition either Group Editor,
space alongside the professionals at his annual Tegan Foley (tegan.foley@
furniture exhibition in Cheltenham. The award mytimemedia.com), Organiser,
ran for eight years, and some of the past winning Jeremy Broun ([email protected])
pieces are shown here. The judges were Jason Chris Wiseman’s ‘Oak Within’ sideboard’ – 2016
Heap, Keith Newton and Jeremy Broun. winner of The Alan Peters Award For Excellence
Alan Peters chest with silver inlay Alan Peters and Jeremy Broun in 2005 Alan Peters chest

TECHNICAL Measuring tools
THE
ASCERTAINMENT
OF
Confronted by a mêlée of measuring tools,

Robin Gates has a field day with squares, dividers,
rules and tapes, then makes a handy depth gauge
hile searching for dividers Treasured squares
W I opened a drawer and plunged

my hand into something
like the mêlée of a medieval
free-for-all, with legs and points going in all
directions. I don’t know how it can have got like
Countless projects begin with planing the timber
square, that is with edges and faces at 90°, for
which the try square has long been the traditional
standard. An old tool with rosewood or ebony
stock smoothed by caring hands, brass bound
this; some tools seem to multiply in the darkness at the edges and fixed to the blade by fancy rivets,
like mushrooms. A jab from the chisel-edged pin is a woodworking treasure – especially so if it’s
of a marking gauge told me it was high time this survived the years with a true perpendicular.
chaotic assortment of measuring tools was put This is conveniently tested on a board known
in some sort of order. to be straight of edge and flat of face (photo 3),
I’ve had similar moments with saws, planes
and screwdrivers, feeling suddenly overwhelmed
by their sheer number, and it’s always tempting
to follow the ‘less is more’ idea, sidelining rip
and cross-cut saws in favour of the single panel
saw, renouncing all planes but the everyday
smoother, and forsaking all screwdrivers bar
the one ratcheting handle and its box of fiddly
interchangeable bits. The decluttering lasts just
long enough to pack this spartan kit into some
miserably small bag, when those tools cast aside
begin throwing accusing glances, and I realise how
I’d miss them, their capabilities honed down the
ages by generations of intelligent hands. It’s more
drawers and cupboards I need, not less tools.
So this time my mind turned naturally to
the many aspects of measuring, or at least
those I knew about, or thought I did. What,
for example, do I actually mean by ‘measure?’
The more I thought about it the more confused
I became, until a visit to the dictionary seemed
unavoidable. There I discovered measure to mean
‘the ascertainment of extent by comparison
with a standard’. That’ll do. 2 Sawn ends meet to make a right angle
3 Testing the truth of a try square 4 Using the protractor head of a combination set 5 Sliding bevel as a visual guide to honing

1 Mitre square with
brass-plated ebony stock
6 Vertical drilling guided by a combination square 7 The buoyant bubble indicates horizontal 8 Gravity acting on a plumb bob shows vertical

9 Scribing with the marking gauge
10 Marking a parallel guided by the ‘fingers fence’ 11 Dado cut to the width of the chisel
marking lines made with the stock on the left yield two lines perpendicular to each other; what’s horizontal and what isn’t by virtue of its
and then the right of the blade: if the two lines a blade more than one degree out is not worth buoyant bubble in a curved vial, while the plumb
run parallel, all is well. the frustration, and best treated as an objet bob, typically a shapely inverted onion dome of
Even more treasured is the 45° mitre square, d’art for the mantelpiece. steel-tipped brass, hangs indisputably vertical
whose rakish charm challenges its owner to a For all other angles a protractor is a useful under the influence of gravity. And how irritating
devilishly demanding test of precision. While it’s tool, and the most versatile is the one that’s part these two can be when the shelf’s up and the post
good to mark around a board with the try square of an engineer’s combination set, able to be locked fixed, having the cheek to offer a critical last word
and saw true to the continuous line, just for the at any angle and point along its steel rule. Besides on a job which had seemed to be going so well.
practice, it’s a more telling exercise to inject 45° marking out (photo 4) it’ll reveal the true bedding The marking gauge not only scribes parallel
angles into the proceedings with the mitre square angle of a plane, and is good for setting up a to the edge or face of a board (photo 9) but can
(photo 1) and assemble a mitre joint. Whereas sliding bevel as a visual guide to honing chisels accurately bisect it by adjusting the stock to
some square-cut joints manage to conceal tiny (photo 5). Meanwhile, the machined faces of the marks made through trial and error from opposite
errors when assembled, the misalignment of a square head that comes with the combination set sides. Simpler than that, a line pencilled under
mitre joint gapes like the beak of a yawning bird, make it free-standing, unlike many try squares, the guidance of the fingers, acting as a fence,
the daylight glaring through it, and the awfulness so I use it as a guide to the vertical when using a is often good enough (photo 10).
unmercifully amplified if the wood happens to hand drill (photo 6). Add to that the built-in spirit Just as the marking gauge measures and
be wide. My only chance of success (photo 2) level and scribe and this tool should be irresistible, marks in one, so also does the chisel, and it’s an
is to proceed very slowly from the first pencil yet its cold, hard-edged skeleton of steel bristling under-exploited feature of the graduated set that
mark to the final push of the saw. with tiny scales seems alien in the warm-handled they’re effectively a set of gauges too, typically
I suspect the mitre square is rarely used to company of woodworking tools. stepping off in units of 6, 12, 18 or 25mm. With
mark mitred corner joints now, since a machine the one chisel you can step out the dimensions
does the job without risk of human error, but for Tools without numbers of a small dado, for example, scribe and hammer
me it’s unforgiving way provides an invaluable Back to those satisfying tools unencumbered down on the marks, then begin to excavate the
reminder of the need to improve. When it comes by numbers, and two stalwart examples infallible waste (photo 11).
to testing the veracity of the mitre square itself, in their workings – the level (photo 7) and the Having the chisel define the width of the
repeating the exercise of the try square should plumb bob (photo 8). The level demonstrates opening is the normal way when cutting a
12 Setting the mortise gauge to the chisel 13 The chisel defines the mortise width 14 A lock mortise chisel levels the floor

15 Dividers scribe the arcs... 16 ... for the coping saw to follow
mortise, first setting the gauge to the chisel be rounded off, but if arcs are intersected you can last 134 years. Callipers, on the other hand, near
(photo 12) that’ll be used to chip out the waste soon create more interesting designs (photo 16). relatives of dividers, are essential to woodturners
(photo 13). For a deep mortise it can be awkward Where dividers go the coping saw often follows, who apply their legs bent this way or that to
to level the floor without bruising the carefully but they’re also used for laying out the curves the gauging of diameters, but they’re also useful
cut edges, but there’s a special tool for that – of carved patterns, and stepping off distances. in the making of simple hollow ware with hand
the swan-necked lock mortise chisel – which Trammel points, a conveniently adjustable tools. In the example shown in photo 19, the
levers from lower down the end wall and alternative to nails hammered through a batten, bow-legged outside callipers indicate plenty
cuts at a more effective angle (photo 14). are for scribing larger arcs (photo 17). I was of wall thickness remaining in a pot gouged
Perhaps the most satisfying of scribing tools attracted to this chunky brass-bodied pair by the from ash.
is the one I was looking for earlier – dividers. engraved details as much as their functionality,
The sturdy iron winged sort, with a locking thumb recording their owner in 1885 was one TEF Rules of thumb
screw, has the weight to pivot firmly on the spot Swindale of Newcastle (photo 18). They lock Some of the measurements which have come
while carrying the line just by dragging its pointed to the chamfered mahogany beam by screws down through history have been inspired by parts
foot (photo 15). The tool is commonly used bearing on tiny loose plates called keepers; of the human body, which are at least unlikely to
for scribing apertures, or where an end is to it’s a miracle these haven’t been lost in the be mislaid, and that tradition is nicely preserved
17 Trammel points scribe to larger radii 18 TEF Swindale, 1885, Newcastle

19 External callipers measuring wall thickness 20 In French, ‘pouce’ means both ‘thumb’ and ‘inch’ 21 Marking from the edge of the rule
in the French word ‘pouce’, which means both the most accurate of tools, being prone to warp While a steel rule makes for an accurate and
‘thumb’ and ‘inch’. Curious to investigate how and wear over time, but there’s a technique for resilient straightedge, watch out you don’t
my own thumb measures up, I found it is indeed getting the best from it and that’s to use it on measure from an old pattern maker’s contraction
approximately 1in across the knuckle (photo 20) edge, with graduations touching the work (photo rule. Its scales have been adjusted to take account
and if that’s not a rule of thumb, I don’t know 21). If used with markings uppermost, and read of the way molten metals contract on cooling
what is. from an oblique angle to the target graduation, during the casting process, ensuring that wooden
Of the numerous woodworker’s rules to the thickness of the rule itself gives rise patterns made to shape the moulds used by
have come and gone down the years, surely the to a parallax error. From 45°, for example, foundry workers would be proportionately
four-fold brass-tipped boxwood type has been the reading will be about 18⁄ in (3mm) out. oversize. On the example shown in photo 24,
the most popular. The narrow rule pocket of many One handy feature of a scale with regular the 12in contraction scale marked 1 in 96 is
an apron was designed specifically for it. It’s not graduations is that by angling it across a board intended for casting iron and is actually 1218⁄ in
you can divide the width into a number of equal long, while that marked 1 in 48 is for casting steel
parts, avoiding fiddly measurements. Here (photo and is 1214⁄ in long – since molten iron and steel
22) I’m using a flexible steel tape to divide the contract by 18⁄ in and 14⁄ in, respectively, on cooling.
board into five, also tipping the concave tape
to bring its edge closer to the surface. Bending the rules
Getting back to thumbs, subconsciously I’ve The woodworker’s more compact and versatile
been using my thumb nail as a rough-and-ready successor to the folding rule is the flexible steel
guide to setting the gap between a smoother’s rule, for which the essential feature of a concave-
cutting edge and the backing iron (photo 23). That convex blade, self-supporting yet flexible enough
wouldn’t suit everyone in this age of extravagant to bend around tight curves (photo 25), was
manicures, but since I keep my nails short they’re invented by Hiram Augustus Farrand of New
never far from equivalent to an acceptable width Hampshire, USA. The blade of Farrand’s Rapid
of steel. Rule, patented in 1922, unwinds from a small
Before leaving the subject of the rigid rule, cup, and is retained by an M-shaped axially-
22 Dividing a board into equal widths a word of warning concerning a joker in the pack. mounted brake.
23 Thumb nail approximates the set of an iron
24 Beware the scales of a contraction rule 25 Working with Farrand’s flexible concave-convex rule

26 Safely extending the Farrand Rapid Rule 27 Stanley’s delightful ‘Pull-Push’ rule 28 The Powerlock’s ‘arcuate brake member’
To release the blade you lift the tip over the lip of 1950s (photo 27) is no larger than required to to develop confidence in working by eye and
the cup, squeeze the ends of the brake and Hey house the blade, as tactile as a pocket watch feel than be dependent on measuring tools.
presto! the blade extends automatically (photo and likewise consulted with ease. Still, the essential screw principle of the
26). This is opposite to the modern rule, which The flexible rule has put on a little weight lofty micrometer does find a place in my very
rewinds automatically, and may have alarming since then as more features have been loaded down-to-earth and simply-made depth gauge
consequences as I found out the first time I onto it, the most useful being the bright yellow (photo 31), albeit as a coarsely threaded wood
used it. With the brake off, the blade unfurled blade lock of Stanley’s Powerlock tape (photo 28), screw. The point of the screw is filed flat so as
and shot across the shed like a javelin. I hadn’t which was described in their 1963 patent as an to bear on the surface of the wood rather than
known it was designed for use independently of ‘arcuate brake member...slidably engageable’ dig into it. For testing the evenness of depth in
the retaining cup, and only afterwards turned up with the front wall of the case. certain situations, I haven’t found anything better
an instruction leaflet advising that the blade be (photo 32).
pointed away from the user and lightly braked Curiosity & invention
between finger and thumb. To reinstall the blade As the son of a toolmaker, I inherited a handful
you push it back in while the brake is off, which of micrometers, and while I’d never be parted
is easier than it sounds. from these superbly engineered devices I’ve yet to
After a successful start, Farrand’s rule business find an application for them in woodwork beyond
was hit by the depression and in 1931 he sold satisfying my curiosity as to the thickness of a
the rights to his invention to Stanley. They further shaving or a saw blade (photo 29). The Starrett
developed the flexible rule with a closed D-shaped No.230 with a Vernier scale engraved on the
case protecting the attached blade (adding 2in barrel (photo 30) reads to an eye-straining
to an internal measurement) and a sliding 0.0001in (0.0025mm). Although the thickness
terminal to ensure an accurate zero. Stanley of shavings is by no means irrelevant, since you
had ditched Farrand’s extending mechanism don’t want to plane off a wodge of material when
early on, reverting to ‘pull-push’ operation, with a mere wisp will finish the job, generally it’s the
a black-on-white blade in a textured plated case. quality of the surface left behind the plane that’s
Understated and solid, this example from the paramount, and in this context I reckon it’s handier 29 Measuring saw thickness with the micrometer
31 Simple wood screw depth gauge
30 Vernier scale of a ‘ten-thousandths’ micrometer 32 Testing for evenness of depth

FEATURE
Paul Hartman, Canada, with his Sam Maloof rocker
thing that furniture designers should always

do: who am I selling to, and what are the values
my customer is looking for?
A matter of cost
The fact is, good design must be about both
the aesthetic and the utilitarian and, if necessary,
THE VALUE & COST OF woodworkers shouldn’t be afraid to compromise,

if compromise brings down the cost to an
acceptable level. That budget will be influenced
FURNITURE MAKING by two things: the cost of materials and the

labour costs of designing and making the piece
of furniture. It’s a deceptively simple bit of
When it comes to selling and valuing your furniture, arithmetic: costs + your time = price. Of course,
Anselm Fraser, Principal of The Chippendale International it’s a little bit more complicated. Costs aren’t just
wood and screws; they also include everything
School of Furniture, advises you to start low, be sensible from heating to water, local taxes to equipment.
and pragmatic, but always aim higher and higher For the mathematically dyslexic (and I’m one),
it’s a process of determining cost and then
O
scar Wilde, the 19th century whole history of chests of drawers, and placing building in a reasonable profit margin.
playwright, expressed it perfectly. a huge price tag on it, is no guarantee of a sale. Make something for £10,000 and sell it
In his play, Lady Windermere’s Fan, for £11,800, and your gross profit is £1,800.
he wrote that a cynic is “a man who Balance between form & function You will also go out of business rather rapidly.
knows the price of everything and the value In a world dominated by IKEA, furniture makers The British Woodworking Federation (OK, not
of nothing.” Like much of Oscar Wilde’s work, have to look imaginatively at the market, design representing fine furniture makers) says that,
his comedy hides a biting truth – that we often and build accordingly, and – most importantly as a rule, manufacturing gross margins after direct
consider moral or ethical values as being less – always have a sensible price in mind. We may costs should be in the region of 40-50%. Generally,
important than financial worth. We allow greed be craftsmen and women, but our valuations improving gross profit margin should always be
to overrule good sense. It’s an issue that is have to be pragmatic. The key concept is value. a clear and unambiguous business objective,
particularly pertinent for today’s woodworkers, The painting hanging on our wall may only have but, equally, you must have realistic expectations
because the value that we place on a beautifully- aesthetic value, until we discover it’s a Picasso, about what customers may be prepared to pay.
crafted piece of furniture may be rather more than at which point it acquires huge utility value as The problem is that many woodworkers think
a prospective customer is prepared to pay for it. a way of paying off the mortgage. In the same too highly of themselves, and charge a Rolls-
Yes, it may have taken many, many hours to make, way, good furniture has both utility and aesthetic Royce rate, when their customer is looking for
using the finest woods, veneers and delicate value. Our wonderful chest of drawers may be a Fiat Uno. (All too infrequently, alas, the opposite
inlays, but if that prospective customer is looking aesthetically beautiful but, if the drawers don’t can be true!) Also remember that Pablo Picasso
for a simple table or chest of drawers, then he or open properly, it lacks utility value. only survived during his early career in Paris
she may be more interested in utility value than That balance between form and function is at by burning most of his paintings to keep warm.
financial value. In other words, spending days and the heart of all good design, from architecture to I always advise our students to be pragmatic,
weeks crafting the finest chest of drawers in the fine woodworking. Finding that balance is the first certainly until they have built a reputation. There’s
no point in graduating from a furniture school
and thinking you are immediately a master of
the woodworking universe. That takes time and,
in the meantime, it’s better to under-sell rather
than not sell. Remember also another line
from Lady Windermere’s Fan: “We are all in the
gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars.”
Start low, be sensible and pragmatic, but
always aim higher and higher.
FURTHER INFORMATION
To find out more about courses offered by
The Chippendale International School of
Rachel Faulkner and her gilded nude lady mirror Stephen Barr with his Brexit cabinet, for which Furniture, see www.chippendaleschool.com
he won the 2019 Richard Demarco prize

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PROJECT Dovetail key puzzle
BRAIN Fortunately I was able to save it along with some

other copies and thought the puzzle would make
TEASER
Inspired by an article in the March 1953 issue
an ideal birthday present for my dad.
Making the templates

As you can probably appreciate, in order for this
to work the two pieces must be cut accurately
and with care. The original article uses imperial
of The Woodworker, Peter Dunsmore puts a measurements, which actually makes more
modern spin on this mystifying dovetail puzzle sense for this project, but I converted these to
metric. Although the original was made entirely
ow can you slide a dovetail key into a side of the key is cut to a definite curve to match with hand tools, I thought it would aid accuracy if
H slot if the key is wider in the middle?

That is the problem. At first glance
it appears to be an impossibility and
has challenged most people who see this for the
first time. The immediate reaction is to look for
that shaped across the walnut. The key is then
pushed into the slot at an upwards angle so the
wider part of the key enters the slot lower down
where the opening is wider. This isn’t a new idea;
I found the inspiration to make this from a post
I used a router to cut the curves. Start by cutting
three curves onto 9mm MDF using a router fitted
to a trammel bar (photo 1). Cut one to an internal
radius of 213mm, a second to an external radius
of 213mm, then cut a third curve to an internal
a seam lengthways in the walnut but there is war copy of The Woodworker magazine that a radius of 121mm. Use the 213mm external radius
no join. The answer lies in the fact that the under neighbour was going to put into the recycling bin. piece to make the small elongated MDF template
that sits on top of the key. After cutting roughly
CUTTING LIST to size (photo 2), use the previously cut template
• 150 × 76 × 25mm American walnut – 1 off to profile the edge with a bearing-guided trimmer.
• 300 × 38 × 12.5mm Canadian maple – 1 off Use double-sided tape to secure in place while
• 9mm MDF for templates you cut the edge (photo 3). Make a copy of the
213mm internal radius template and cut straight
edges so that when the two templates are butted
together, the centre elongated template is a
secure fit between the two. The result should be
three pieces of MDF that fit together accurately
(photo 4).
1 Accurate setting of the radius is important 2 Start by cutting the MDF roughly to shape 3 Use double-sided tape to secure to the template

Making the key piece
I initially made a dummy run using some scrap
wood to get an idea of what was involved. For
the final project, I chose two hardwoods that
contrasted well in colour. The key was made using
Canadian maple, a very hard creamy white colour
that contrasted well with the American walnut
used for the base. The key is 76mm long and
the curve on the underside starts and finishes
at the ends of the key. As can be seen in photo
5, the positioning of the template is important to
achieve this. For the sake of safety, use double-
sided tape to secure the maple to a piece of scrap
cut to the same width and length as the maple.
This will provide the extra support needed when
the router is used to profile the maple (photo 6).
Alternatively, this part could be made using a file
and abrasive paper wrapped round a suitable
former. Cut the maple to a length of 76mm
ensuring the cuts start and end at the curves.
The method I found to work well was to cut the
key a little over-length and then to sand the ends
smooth. A disc sander really helps here if the
fence is set to 90°. The length of the key should
be the same as the width of the walnut housing
with the ends of the curves sitting on the edge
of the wood. At this point it is worth clamping the
two matching templates in place on the walnut
to cut the recess for the first stage of the recess.
Both should be butted tightly together and the
recess cut to a depth of 6mm (photo 7). If all
goes well, the template for the key should be a
sliding fit into the recess (photo 8) and should
fit whichever way round it is fitted in. With the
template positioned in the walnut, use a sharp
pencil to score two lines on the underside of
the MDF where it overhangs. Now remove the
template and position it on top of the maple key.
It has to be positioned bang on the centreline and
the maple must lie on the two pencil lines just
drawn (photo 9). Draw a line around the MDF
onto the top of the maple key and draw a straight
line from the ends of the curves just drawn to
the bottom outside corners of the key (photo 10).
Although I have shown the lines drawn in pencil,
I actually used a marking knife to score them,
but pencil lines show better in the photos.
Opening the slot

As mentioned earlier, the secret to this puzzle is to
have a curve cut into the walnut that matches the
curve on the underside of the key. To begin, set a
marking gauge to 12.5mm – the thickness of the The original article, which was published in
maple key (photo 11) – and score a line on each the March 1953 issue of The Woodworker
4 The three template pieces should fit together seamlessly 5 Secure the template to the edge of the maple

PROJECT Dovetail key puzzle
6 Ensure to cut the profile quickly and accurately 7 Secure the two templates to the walnut and cut 8 The MDF should be a firm sliding fit into the walnut
the recess with a rebate cutter
side of the walnut. Check against the key (photo Trimming the key Finally smooth the bevel, if necessary, with a little
12) that it is accurately cut. Use a sliding bevel and The maple key needs to be finally shaped. It’s abrasive paper taped to a flat strip of timber but
a knife to mark lines at the same angle as those a little tricky to explain but use either a sharp don’t get carried away. Just smooth to the lines
marked on the end of the key in the previous chisel or a finely set spokeshave to remove the on top of the key and to the lower edge of the key.
stage (photo 13). Now you have the parameters wood from the lines marked on top of the maple
set, the curve can be shaped. Take the template down to the lower edges of the key. The bevel Continuing with the housing
used to shape the underside of the key and use flows around and the angle varies due to the With the key completed it’s time to under-cut
this to check the profile of the curve on the walnut curvature on the underside but it all makes sense the corresponding bevel on the housing. There’s
(photo 14). The easiest way to achieve this is to once you actually start cutting (photo 15). I found no short cut; it’s just a case of paring away with
use a file and remove a little at a time from each it much easier to work the bevel if the key was a chisel (photo 16) and taking great care that the
end and to keep checking against the template. clamped in a vice between a couple of softeners. chisel does not cut into the top curve. It should
9 Use this same template to mark the top 10 Marking out the dovetail key
of the key
12 Checking against the end of the key
11 Use a marking gauge to set the depth of the key 13 Use a sliding bevel to set the same angle as that
at the end of the key

14 Keep checking the curve 15 Now start to shape the bevel along the 16 Repeat the process to cut a matching bevel
edge of the key on the walnut
finish exactly on the edge of the curve if the end puzzle. I managed to achieve a fit that required kitchen table for the trimming, but the end result
result is to look as though the key is a perfect fit a firm push with the thumb to open it knowing is worth the effort. I didn’t bother with any finish
into the walnut. It’s not easy! Just a little at a time that with use it will soon loosen up a little. Finally as the constant handling will just add natural oils
(photo 17) and don’t cut into the top edge. Ideally trim the walnut to length ensuring that the key and patina. Most people who have seen this are
it should be a smooth bevel all the way along is located centrally and sand to a smooth finish. totally stumped by it, which was the object of the
the curve. Keep checking by pushing the key into It will take a few hours, in my case sat at the exercise. As for my dad, I might tell him how
the opening at an upwards angle (photo 18) and it works… eventually, but I think I’ll make him
making pencil marks at any high spots (photo 19). suffer for a bit before I reveal the secret!
Keep persevering until the key is a sliding fit all
the way along to the other side. I aimed for a tight
fit as a sloppy fit will make it too easy to solve the
17 A little at a time… 18 Try fitting the key into the opening 19 Pencil marks are an aid to show where
the high spots are
The completed dovetail key in maple and

contrasting walnut should look something like this

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Workshop Q&A FEATURE
Me and my workshop
Doug Zech
Doug in his Canadia

n workshop
Here we take a look 5. What do you make in it? 11. And what’s the worst?
Mostly cigar-box guitars and ukuleles, Nothing. Some pieces are more successful than
around the workshop with the odd piece of furniture thrown in. others, but to make something is all I need.
of Canadian artist,
6. What is your favourite workshop tip? 12. What’s the best lesson you’ve
craftsman and kayak Six words: test fit… Test fit… TEST FIT. learned?
fisherman, Doug Zech Broken record here: to test fit everything.
7. What’s your best piece of kit?
1. What is it – and where is it? An antique Stanley backplane my wife’s 13. If you won the lottery,
My workshop is half of an altered garage: grandfather gave to me. what would you buy for your workshop?
woodshed one one side, greenhouse on the other. I’d buy a building in Venice, Italy.
8. If your workshop caught fire,
2. What’s the best thing about it? what one thing would you rescue?
The windows open onto my wife’s amazing A box of random hand tools I inherited from
garden. The view is inspiring! my father. NEXT MONTH
In the next issue, we look around Devon-based
3. And what’s the worst? 9. What’s your biggest artist, sculptor and furniture maker Caroline
The concrete pad extends too far from workshop mistake? Arbon’s workshop. We’d love to hear about
the wall and water leaks under it. Not test fitting. your workshops too, so do feel free to send in
a photo of your beloved workspace, and please
4. How important is it to you? 10. What’s the nicest thing answer the same questions as shown here –
It’s a vital part of my life; I’d be unable you’ve ever made? just email [email protected]
to exist without it. An upright electric bass guitar.

Alan Peters and Andrew Lawton
discuss project requirements
back in 2005
THE MAKERS’ MAKER

his work was good: he had served a five-year
apprenticeship at the Edward Barnsley Workshop,
then trained as a woodwork teacher, taken
a further course in interior design, before
ALAN PETERS’ LAST PROJECT setting up his own workshop in the early 1960s.
Later that same year I saw more of Alan’s
work at another of Betty’s shows, and this time
Andrew Lawton was lucky enough to be involved it was ‘Masterclass 82’ at the Queen’s Hotel,
in the making of Alan Peters’ last piece of furniture, Cheltenham. On this occasion Alan was showing
various pieces including one of his unmistakable
and here he recalls the many happy hours spent ‘Bowl’ tables. We got chatting and I found him
with him at his Somerset workshop back in 2005 to be a most approachable man, or as someone
else once described him: ‘A modest man with
t is a privilege to have been invited by & Design’ exhibitions in Cheltenham, which plenty to be immodest about’. In subsequent
I Jeremy Broun to be one of the judges for

the Alan Peters Furniture Award 2020.
I hope this short article gives some idea
as to why many of us hold Alan and his work
in such high esteem and believe that an award
are still going strong after all these years,
now under the curatorship of Jason Heap.
An exquisite chest of drawers

I was in the early stages of my career as a
years we occasionally met at exhibitions up
should be given annually in his name. designer-maker and it was quite a thrill to be
In the spring of 1982, I was invited to take showing my furniture alongside many established
part in an exhibition entitled ‘Woodworkers of and well known makers; there was much fine
Excellence’ at the Sun Inn, Hitchin, Hertfordshire, work on display but one piece in particular
which was organised by the formidable Betty stood out for me as being exceptional: a chest of
Norbury, wife of woodcarver Ian Norbury. I drawers in English walnut with a slightly oriental
believe this was the first large exhibition that appearance combined with characteristics
she organised and a forerunner of the widely of the ‘Cotswold School’ of English furniture
known annual ‘A Celebration of Craftsmanship makers – Ernest Gimson, the Barnsleys, Peter
Waals and others – who took
much of their inspiration from
the vernacular woodwork and
architecture of pre-industrial rural
England. This chest of drawers was
of understated yet subtly refined
design, harmoniously proportioned,
One of Alan’s the timber thoughtfully chosen to
‘Bowl’ tables create a balanced pattern of colour and grain and
the exquisite workmanship throughout spoke to
me as the work of a great craftsman. The maker Alan Peters with his two apprentices:
behind the piece was Alan Peters, and no wonder Stephen Hopper and Keith Newton

Alan Peters – The Makers’ Maker FEATURE
Walnut console table made by the late Alan Peters OBE
and down the country, and as well as furniture to be met, and so it was that I was able to spend At this stage, the future table top was still a single
we had a shared interest in cycling and cycle a few weeks down in Minehead, starting almost board of wild-grained English elm, around 2.2m
racing, having both been keen time trialists straight away and returning for another spell later long, 1,000mm wide and 75mm thick, complete
as well as riding non-competitively. in the summer, not quite knowing what to expect with the waney edge on both sides. As is often
but looking forward to a bit of an adventure. the case with English elm, this board had warped
Phone call out of the blue Alan may have ‘downsized’ but this was no somewhat during seasoning and was anything
In May 2005, out of the blue, Alan phoned me double garage affair. His new workshop was but flat. The obvious way of using this board, and
and asked if I was able to go to his workshop and spacious and well laid out, with five benches and the method I guess most makers would choose,
help with a couple of projects. By this time – now all the machines from his old workshop sharing would be to rip it into several narrower, more
in his early 70s – Alan had moved from Devon a former builders’ merchants premises, dating manageable pieces, then plane and thickness
to a smaller workshop in Somerset and his former from the 1960s at a guess, within a couple of by machine, shoot the edges and glue up to make
assistants, Stephen Hopper and fellow judge Keith minutes’ walk of the seafront and within earshot the finished width of the top. This was not Alan’s
Newton, were employed elsewhere. I had several of the steam locomotives on the West Somerset way, however; he was concerned that because
commissions to be getting on with in my own Light Railway. As well as having large front ripping, shooting and butt jointing a wide board
workshop but luckily there were no tight deadlines windows the workshop had plenty of natural light inevitably removes a portion of timber, the result
from a number of skylights. A small display area can be a slight mismatch of the grain. In other
and office completed the main workshop, while words, however carefully the original board
out in the yard two substantial outbuildings was re-joined, it could destroy the appearance
housed Alan’s stocks of timber and veneers. Alan that, in reality, this had once been one single,
didn’t do anything by halves it seems; to set up a
workshop like this when past the age when many
would have retired says a lot about the man!
My first job was to complete a partly-made
dining table of solid English elm. The design was
Alan’s contemporary take on the classic ‘hayrake’
style; the sort of timeless design that would
look as good in a modern town house as a rustic
farmhouse. The underframe was more or less
complete but Alan wanted me to alter the shape
of the projecting ends of the lower stretcher rail,
which didn’t look quite right to him. There was
nothing wrong with the way it was, of course, but
in Alan’s eyes, wasn’t quite as he wanted. Classic
Alan Peters attention to every last detail! If the
table had not been assembled, still a stack of
components, doing the alterations would have
been straightforward but reshaping on the
glued-up table was a little tricky. It involved
some careful work with a shoulder plane, but One of Alan Peters’ apprentice’s masters the art of
I eventually got it done to Alan’s satisfaction. tight dovetails
www.getwoodworking.com August 2019 The Woodworker incorporating Good Woodworking 45

FEATURE Alan Peters – The Makers’ Maker
giant board. Incidentally, English, or common

elm (not common at all today after the ravages
of Dutch elm disease), has something of an unfair
reputation for being unstable and not much good
for furniture making other than as Windsor chair
seats. True, it can and usually does warp badly
during the seasoning process, but if it is carefully
dried and conditioned to a moisture content of
9 or 10%, as all timber destined for use in centrally
heated buildings ideally ought to be, it is in fact
a fairly stable wood. Jane Cleal, of well-known
makers Williams & Cleal, worked for Alan Peters
at the start of her career, and told me how he
would periodically dismantle the whole sawn
logs of various species he had seasoning ‘in stick’,
inspect the boards, turn them over and re-stack
them. This helped to ensure that the timber dried
to a consistent moisture content throughout its
thickness, allowed stresses with the wood to be
relieved, and eventually, after further drying in
the warmth of the workshop, yield timber that
was in prime condition for high quality furniture
making. More than most, Alan Peters understood
the creative possibilities of wood, but also its
limitations, and always made provision in his
designs that no matter how well seasoned, solid
timber will shrink and swell in sympathy with
the humidity of the air around it. Clearly, these Alan Peters pictured by Jeremy Broun in 2005 for the making of the film documentary The Makers’ Maker
considerations do not apply when using veneers
laid on an MDF substrate, but any maker who end, having selected the better face, gradually machines can give to the resourceful craftsman
ignores one of the fundamental characteristics working my way along the board, checking by or woman. For example, the top of the table was
of solid wood does so at his or her peril! eye and with a straightedge to judge how things sanded on his large pad sander, which saved
were progressing. English elm cuts fairly easily many hours of handwork and gave a wonderfully
Tackling the elm but rapidly blunted the iron, so I had to stop and smooth, even surface. Secondly, Alan decided
Luckily, during my training in the late 1970s, I had re-sharpen frequently. It was hard going – just that the most appropriate finish for the table
been taught how to plane up a board entirely by lifting the board onto the bench was a struggle at would be ordinary matt polyurethane, bought
hand. There is great merit in being able to plane first (it got progressively lighter as shavings were from the nearby branch of Travis Perkins, I recall.
and thickness a large piece of timber with a hand removed) but extremely satisfying as I established Many people recoil in horror at the mention of
plane: it is a skill worth mastering for its own sake a rhythm, became lost in the work, and started the word, but carefully thinned and applied,
but in addition, we can learn a lot about the nature to see results. Eventually the board was flat, but polyurethane provides an excellent, attractive
of wood and how it behaves when we work it. not necessarily smooth, at which point I planed finish – it works especially well on elm – and
The best way to go about truing up a long, wide it at 45° and finally along the grain with the plane Alan was passionate that furniture should be as
board is to plane across the grain, rather than set very finely to ensure that the face was free well made as possible in every respect and built
along it, in order to remove all the high spots, from torn grain. Having established a reference to cope with long-term use, not simply to draw
so this is how I tackled this magnificent piece of surface – the ‘face side’ – I gauged all round, admiration in an exhibition or gallery. With the
elm. Armed with a No.7 try plane, with a freshly turned the board over and proceeded to thickness table now complete and the top attached to the
ground and sharpened blade, I started from one it, repeating the process on what would be the underframe with ‘buttons’ to allow for seasonal
reverse side of the top. movement, the final touch was to stamp one of
the long top rails with the ‘Alan Peters’ marking
No fuss, no punch. No fuss, no gimmicks, the name said it
gimmicks all. This was the last piece of furniture in which
All this took a whole Alan was entirely involved in making and the last
three days and while to carry the illustrious name. On my second visit
the remaining work to Alan’s workshop later that year, I worked on
on the table involved a partly-made console table of Devon walnut,
less hard physical but the limited time available prevented me from
work, two examples of completing the project. After Alan’s death we
Alan Peters’ approach brought the piece up to my workshop to finish
to furniture making I it, and soon found a buyer, but unlike the elm
came across during the dining table it cannot claim to be an authentic
making of this table Peters creation and therefore does not carry
are worth mentioning. the ‘Alan Peters’ maker’s mark.
Although he was a
great believer in hand FURTHER INFORMATION
tools and manual To find out more about Andrew and see
skills, he was no further examples of his work, visit his website:
Luddite, being alert to www.andrewlawton.co.uk
The elm dining table that Andrew worked on with Alan the possibilities that

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Home truths TECHNICAL
MODEST
The original [Wendy house] was built for Wendy Darling in J. M. Barrie’s play,
Peter Pan, or The Boy Who Wouldn’t Grow Up. Wendy was shot by the Lost Boy
Tootles after arriving in Neverland, so Peter Pan and the Lost Boys built
a small house around her where she had fallen (Wikipedia)
DESIGNS
Edward Hopkins makes a bomb-proof Wendy house
he wheel turns. Imogen’s daughter Jaya detail evaded me. Unlike many a brave builder lined with plastic or, much better, EPDM pond
T is at the age that Imogen was when she

used to play with a friend in a Wendy
house with curtains and a pretend
cooker. These were happy times, and Imogen
wants to recreate them for Jaya. Well maybe.
on Grand Designs, I feel the need to keep a project
in perspective. It also needs to stay on budget.
What is my budget? Same as always: as little
as possible.
I spent the best part of £200 on the main
liner, which never tears or rots, and load it down
with gravel. Mmm. What a weight to hang over
children at play! How sturdy must the walls be?
What about EPDM alone? Black. Ugh! This is
a play house, not a portal to the underworld.
I think she wants to recreate them for herself, structure, and another £75 on the planed
and Jaya is the excuse. I think she’ll be down pine floor, which I know is a bit extravagant. Catching a train
there at the bottom of the garden with both girls, My tiles were free. You’ll probably have to find Economy doesn’t mean scrimping. It mustn’t
making cakes from mud, and tea with cold water a reclamation yard because a builders’ merchants mean flimsy. It means thinking about it for a bit
in tiddly cups; taken with artificial slurping noises will not sell such small quantities. It took a fair longer before sharpening a pencil. In came curved
and murmurs of delight. When I make a play house number of screws and odd pieces of timber corrugated iron, maybe the stuff they sell for
for Jaya and Risha (which I’ve just agreed to do) already in stock, so approximately £300 in all pig arcs (sorry girls) or Nissan huts (sorry girls),
I’d better make it big enough for Imogen too. plus a week’s work. but I don’t want to lash that to the roof rack and
I don’t remember the Wendy house, but it What worries me about a sedum roof is not the paraglide up the M5, and I don’t want to have it
makes me think of faded plastic and Snow White sedum. ‘More expensive than Axminster carpet’ delivered in Bristol only assuming it would fit.
kitsch. I don’t want anything to do with that. ‘Can I’m told, but not where I am. Sedum hitch-hiked And assuming we could get it through the house.
I go Kevin McCloud?’ I asked her. ‘Yes of course!’ here in pots of sempervivum from Lidl, and has What about flat corrugated iron? I like corrugated
she replied. When it came to it, the flat sedum now spread itself throughout the vicinity. It grows iron, but not everyone does, and I don’t want to
roof, the sliding glass panels and the snappy without trying. I could just make a roof from a tray turn their garden into a shanty town. Shingles?

TECHNICAL Home truths
Go away. I’m avoiding roofing felt because it ends

up tearing and looking tatty. I’m not about to build
a monument that will last a hundred years, but
neither do I want it to disintegrate after two.
Here began a train of thought that once I got
on, I couldn’t get off. Concrete roof tiles, ridge tiles
too: I have stacks of them doing nothing. They are
the only visible remains of a Woolaway bungalow
that was demolished to make way for the one I’m
living in. I like concrete roof tiles; common sense
over-rides aesthetics and anyway they don’t look
bad. The main thing is that they interlock. On my
last house I had clay pantiles. They don’t interlock,
they overlap. Sort of. Most of the time they were
fine but in a north-east storm they leaked. I tried
everything: there was nothing I could do. I still
have dreams of water pouring through the roof.
They are not nightmares: I seem to cope quite
well, but I’m always pleased to wake up.
Concrete tiles (I probably don’t have to tell 1 House under way: you need space for a thing 2 6 by 1 (150 × 25) sawn tanalised softwood is
you this) are heavy. Constructional timber from like this. The spirit level wasn’t involved: construction rough stuff. It will expand and contract with the
the yard comes as 2 by 2; 3 by 2; or 4 by 2in (50 is by measurement. The back frame (nearest to the weather, but to give it its best start, I cramped before
× 50; 50 × 75; or 50 × 100mm). You could build camera) is from lighter stock and not mortise & screwing. Just visible in this photo is a near-mistake.
a full-size house with 2 by 4s, so Wendy would tenoned (overkill given its position). Instead it is half I have the side frame screwed to the back frame from
be wildly overweight. 2 by 2s are a bit skinny housed and screwed. I still don’t like screwing into the outside. When that last plank is fixed, I wouldn’t
considering any jointing, and material defects. end-grain, but concede that here it makes sense. be able to dismantle for transport. Duh! Now it is
3 by 2 then. Sorted. Standard roofing battens. Nothing is glued screwed from the inside
Hefty screws and nails. Chop saw, table saw, and rigid, keeping the frame inevitably square
jigsaw, mortiser and bandsaw all on stand-by. and true. Mortises first as always. The mortiser
Workshop arranged to give large open space. is a magic machine. Who’d have thought you could
Tape measure. Pencil. Go! drill square holes? My largest chisel was not large
enough, so each mortise involved four cuts (two
Frame up from each face, and the workpiece flipped left
The roof tile as a unit determines the size of the to right), which was a bit tedious but produced
roof and, to some extent, the slope. A pitched roof a mortise precisely in the middle. Tenoned pieces
of two 2 × 5 tile slopes covered a room big enough cut to length, then shoulders of the tenons cut
to play in, and small enough to be cosy. My initial very slightly over, on the table saw. Cheeks sliced
thought was to have the walls flared outward and off on the bandsaw. Trial the bandsaw on a piece
also clad in tile. This would make a façade shaped of waste first until the fit is right. Aim for a push
like a frame tent. We’ve had lots of good camping fit not a hammered fit because it makes life easier
holidays and festivals, and this would be a positive and risks less damage.
image, at least for Imogen. The façade would have Most tiles rest on other tiles. A bottom row
3 How the kitchen end comes apart, prior to accommodate a doorway and a window or two. cannot, so a spacer must be fitted on the roof to
to assembly in my garden, prior to installation I made the roof frames, jointing them with maintain the pitch. 25 × 50mm tanalised roofing
in Bristol. I think it’ll all go in the van through tenons – such a satisfactory joint, strong batten was just the right size – two face down,
5 Initial assembly. I could have clad it indoors, but I

wanted to be sure that I could move it; and I wanted
4 More components. I was reluctant to dismantle the roof. I had a long discussion with myself about the sense to be able to stand back from it to see it properly.
of lifting this into position, damaging my back and being unable to move for six weeks, then like an improbable Now I think the doorway might receive a drip
weight lifter, I rotated it, lifted it above my head and walked it over three standing sides. Not difficult at all as moulding like an eyebrow. That gable end needs
it happened a little something

the bottom one edge down (photo 1). I cramped
and nailed the frames, but I screwed the batten
on. Probably in all woodwork, but especially in this
spontaneous seat-of-pants method of working,
I like as much as possible to be reversible.
The two roof frames rest against each other,
and are held there by screwed blocks (photos
4 & 9). This is not the finest solution, but it is
expedient. Now here’s a question: if you have
to cut a flat isosceles triangle from 50 × 75mm
stock, how are you going to do it? What you want
is a large adjustable jig running across a table saw,
but what you also want is to keep your fingers.
If you were making bomb-proof Wendy-houses
for a living, this would be the way to go. A one-off
is different. The blocks are too small to run over
a surfacer, which might have even less regard
for your fingers. Again, a jig could be made, but
only for a roomful of Wendies. I took it slowly
on the bandsaw but this wasn’t smooth enough.
I could have put it in a vice and planed it flat, but
I didn’t consider that. By my elbow was the Triton 6 Wendy has a slightly aghast look: ‘Oh! Really?’ I was surprised too. It wasn’t there last week, and now
oscillating sander. I didn’t ask too much of it but it is. I’ve given up on the vacant gable; I don’t think it matters anymore, and anyway, I haven’t had any ideas.
I sanded away the high spots with ease, drilled The doorway’s rounded corners (photo 5) had to go. I didn’t see how to progress them, and they stopped any
clearance holes for screws, and machine-gunned door-lining, which now, together with the window lining, pulls the eye down away from the gable towards the
the blocks into place. I used to think that impact human detail. Actually I’m beginning to like the vacant gable. It is not pretentious like some Italian excesses.
drivers were crude, but I don’t anymore. More American Colonial
7 Yes, it is part chicken coop. Sorry girls. That’s just how it happened. The annex on the left is the kitchen extension. There had to be somewhere for the cooker,
that was part of the brief. The fascias are fresh 4 × 1in (100 × 25mm) sawn tanalised, and I presume they will change colour but I don’t mind if they don’t.
Serendipity called. I’d deliberately configured the roof to take two rows of five tiles. That offered a convenient width of four tiles. Three ridge tiles capped the roof.
The gaps between them are bit large, but when this is installed in Bristol, I will bed the ridge in mortar and point it, so the gaps will matter less. Cutting concrete
tiles is a nasty business and I was grateful not to have to do it

TECHNICAL Home truths
of the roof has to clear a semi-cylindrical ridge

tile. I thought of a flouncy fall of geometry like
something in Amsterdam, but the pitch of the
roof wasn’t high enough to make it work, and
it would leave end-grain exposed. On the parapet,
a piece of batten protects the end-grain as what
you might call a flat cap.
The doorway received a touch of detail. I
rounded the corners. There was to be no door
because I had the image of a gust of wind trapping
tiny fingers. Anyway, this is an outdoor, garden
experience. A cave. The curves add a distinct
design detail. According to my own rules I should
repeat this motif somewhere else. The window
frames are an obvious choice, but as I write this, I
haven’t decided. The windows could easily receive
a sheet of Perspex, but I wasn’t going to do that
right now either. I had plenty to be getting on with.
For something put together in, let’s say, a week
(I strung it out longer than that), it has a pleasantly
medieval air. The roof will leak. The walls will let
in the wind, except in the rain when the softwood
swells and closes the gaps. Then the rain will drive
through the glass-less windows and the empty
doorway. This is a fair-weather cave. It could be
squeezed, flashed, caulked, glazed and hatched
to make it seaworthy but that is another level of
production. And gravity. I’ll keep my eye on it over
the years, and do what’s necessary or desirable.
8 The windows could of course be fitted with Perspex or glass. I wouldn’t want an opening casement for the I said at the beginning that it was Imogen, not
same wind/hinges/fingers reason that I don’t want a door. Fixed glazing would deny the opportunity to use Jaya, who wanted a play house. Turned out it was
the sill as a counter, so the girls couldn’t play shop. And it would introduce a level of detail incompatible with me. I like making furniture but I like building even
what is otherwise an elemental basic building more. A building is furniture you live in. It affects
the way you feel. It creates the way you feel. It
Not going Kevin house. There wasn’t much to discuss about creates you. It stays with you, as it has stayed
I forgot all about Kevin. I’d go conventional. the studwork. The charm would have to come with Imogen since she and Jessica were just a
Rectilinear room with a doorway at the end in the cladding. few years old. I consider it a privilege that I can
and a window in the middle. A Wendy house On a gable end, tiles normally project, are do the same for Jaya and Risha. I’ve made a place
should have style. It should have charm. clipped in place, and pointed with mortar. I wasn’t for play, and a place for memories. I hope Kevin
Charm is an elusive design element. Rather going to get into that. Here they abut wooden would approve. I don’t care about Disney; this
than a tent, this was indeed an elemental parapets and their edges are hidden. The peak fantasy is real.
GREEN GROWS THE WILLOW (& A FEW OTHER THINGS)

A couple of months ago (WW June) I showed you my attempt at laying a willow
ring. Just in case you thought I was heavy handed and hopeful, this is how it has
responded: explosively!
Cut willow Green willow

9 I have yet to screw the floorboards down. A central spine of 2 × 2in supports the floor middle. I anticipate
setting the house on a level gravel base maybe topped with sand. Using planed pine for the floor ramped up the
cost, but I didn’t consider an alternative. Knees and splinters! I think maybe it should be waxed. I lost half a width
in a mistake and was then tight on materials. The back floorboard (of a deeper colour) was a piece of scrap that
I was using as a template. It was the perfect fit! More serendipity! I do like it when this sort of thing happens. It’s
like a pat on the back. It’s almost like forgiveness. You can see four silver hexagonal heads on the main uprights;
these are whacking great coach screws. I bought a box of them in a junk shop. Hadn’t used them ‘til now. Perfect!

PROJECT Oak kitchen bar chairs
RAISING
THE BAR 1 The problem – the original chairs
Realising a pair of
folding kitchen ‘bar’
chairs no longer fit the
bill, Robert Couldwell
takes to the workshop
and goes about making
a replacement set in oak
n my previous articles for this magazine,
I I worked on the premise that an amateur

with no formal training and little in the way
of machinery could produce reasonable
pieces of furniture. My first project was a
softwood slatted vegetable drawer-unit copied
slavishly from an article in The Woodworker, which
certainly satisfied my wife (not easy) and is now
in regular use in the larder.
My daughter, seeing this, asked if I could make
a desk needed for her new work-from-home job.
Initially thinking I would make this from softwood
and MDF and providing her with a sketch which
she approved, I suddenly thought I should be
more ambitious and make it in oak. The result
was, surprisingly, a success and featured in the
April 2013 issue. It also resulted in several other
commissions (unfortunately for love not money),
until pressure of work gave me no time for
anything but essential (DIY) woodworking.
The problem
Recently things changed and a new project was
born. We’ve long had a pair of folding kitchen
‘bar’ chairs in use, but when used in our current
house, the protruding metal legs were a constant
source of annoyance as it was very easy to trip
over them. It came to the point where my wife
insisted I do something about them (photo 1).
Fig.1 Oak kitchen bar chair dimensions 2 Perfect components

CUTTING LIST
All dimensions in millimetres
Part Quantity Length Width Thickness
Rear uprights 2 955 35 35
Front uprights 2 700 35 35
Front & rear upper supports 2 245 70 25
Side upper supports 2 280 70 25
Back 1 245 70 25
Front & rear lower supports 2 245 35 35
Side supports 2 280 35 35
Seat 1 365 315 19
After some research on internet ‘chair’ sites,

I decided on parallel legs but needed to ensure
these would provide stability (people tend to lean
back on chairs and I had visions of concussed
visitors having fallen backwards). I therefore made
a mock up with plywood and the right length legs
and did ‘field’ tests. The outcome was to extend
the distance between the front and back legs.
Shaker style
Our kitchen is Shaker style with oak worktops,
so we chose oak for the stools, which might also
have something to do with the fact I had an old
oak breakfast bar and a long oak shelf in the
back of the garage that I could recycle. I like the
simplicity of Shaker design and I suppose the style
of my chairs follows that form. I have invested
in some machinery since I took up woodwork as
a hobby including a chop saw, bandsaw, vertical
panel saw, router table and biscuit and Domino
jointers, as well as the usual DIY tool kit, but the
one machine missing is a planer/thicknesser. This
is almost essential to machine reclaimed wood
and fortunately a good friend of mine has a planer
and separate thicknesser, and I assisted him in
machining my old wood. Perfect components for
assembling the chairs were the result (photo 2).
Oak window sill board for the seat

The reclaimed oak was 50mm thick, which was
too thick for the actual seats both visually and
in terms of weight. Rather than waste valuable
oak and cut and plane it down, I looked to 20mm
thick board from the local supplier. It is always
a nightmare selecting decent boards there and
I ended up buying a more expensive oak window
sill board, which was true and square with a good
grain (photo 3). I have never believed in spoiling
a ship for a ha’p’orth of tar – hopefully the chairs
will become family heirlooms!
3 Oak window board for the seat

PROJECT Oak kitchen bar chairs
4 Marking out joints 5 Festool Domino jointer 6 Mortises cut by jointer
My woodworker friend was surprised I was not short of try squares as each angle has Adding the seat
attempting to make chairs, which does require to be checked at the same time as the back The window board was cut approximately to
the matching of a lot of angles, and I think is clamped. Once dry, the same was done size and two pieces joined back to back, this time
he had visions of my ending up with unequal with the front legs and to ensure alignment, using a Makita biscuit jointer, which uses nice
legs and a rocky future – o he of little faith! the front leg frame was clamped to the rear to wide biscuits. Because of the bull-nose front and
check alignment before final clamping (photo 8). rear, great care had to be taken over the clamping
Setting out the joints (photos 12 & 13). Once the glue was dry, the seat
Once everything was measured (at least twice) Lots of angles was sanded both sides with my excellent Makita
and cut to size, the first step was to mark out the The trickiest part of the whole project was orbital sander. I have finally acquired an adaptor
location of the joints (photo 4). My woodworking joining the front legs to the rear and ensuring to attach the dust extractor, which makes such
friend assumed I would be cutting proper mortise all 16 angles were 90° and cross struts level a difference both to the air quality and also the
& tenons but they leave little room for error. My with each other – not for the faint-hearted. life of the backing pads as build-up of sawdust
Festool Domino jointer is an amazing machine The chair was clamped together to ensure tends to affect the adhesion of the sanding
for the amateur and does give some wiggle everything lined up and adjustments made sheets (photo 14). I have discovered Mirka
room (photos 5, 6 & 7). (photo 9). The wiggle room provided by the sanding sheets, which are net based and allow
I was determined not to hurry making these Domino jointers was helpful here. Once everything the dust to be extracted all over and not just
chairs and to produce them one at a time. I had lined up, the final gluing took place and the chair through eight small holes. They are also
decided to attach the seats by screws through clamped. When clamping, I always protect the effective and long lasting (photo 15).
the 70mm cross struts to give some mechanical piece with offcuts, which are sometimes difficult
security and drilled and countersunk the holes to manipulate. It occurred to me that a little
before gluing. The next step was to glue the back double-sided tape could be used to stick the
uprights and three cross struts. I have always offcuts to the clamp, thus solving the problem
successfully used waterproof PVA glue and (photos 10 & 11). The project now actually
despite the availability of more sophisticated looked like a chair, which was comforting,
adhesive, continue to do so. Fortunately I am leaving only the seat to be added.
7 Domino tenons 8 The front legs are clamped to the rear to ensure 9 Checking angle alignment
alignment
10 Sticking offcuts... 11 ... to clamps 12 The Makita biscuit jointer

13 Oak board joined 14 Sander with adaptor/extractor 15 Mirka sanding sheet
Now sanded all-round, the best side and bull-

nose of the seat was chosen, taking account of
grain and quality of the join. The seat was then
cut to size and the cuts-outs for the rear uprights
made on the bandsaw, one of my most useful
machines. The seat was finally attached with
80mm screws and the stool was substantially
finished and surprisingly, considering it was
the first chair I have ever made, doesn’t wobble
(photo 16).
The final finish

The next decision was how to finish the chair. 16 Attaching legs to the seat with screws 17 Materials to finish chairs
I am a fan of a combination of good quality Danish
oil and water-based matt varnish. There is some The original instructions that came with the between each coat and two coats of Ronseal
controversy about varnishing on top of Danish kitchen oak worktops recommended not sanding water-based varnish were finally added with
oil, but it has always worked for me. I became with anything finer than 400 grit and applying sanding after the first and buffing after the
so disenchanted with the tedium of regular re- oil with wire wool. When I told the kitchen fitter last (photo 18).
oiling of kitchen worktops that last time I sanded he thought I was mad, but it has always worked The offending folding chairs are finally
them, I oiled them and added a couple of coats for me. I applied three coats of oil to the chair redundant and will be sold on eBay. The new
of matt varnish. It has worked perfectly for five allowing 24 hours drying between each. The chair chairs are in place and ‘she who must be obeyed
years (photo 17). was lightly hand-sanded with 400 grit abrasive is happy’ – result!
18 Final varnish
19 & 20 The completed bar chairs in situ

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TURNING The Engineer’s Workshop – candlesticks
TALL DARK
STRANGERS
You won’t recognise Dave Roberts’ style at
first, but the engineer’s enjoying a change
he first thing you’ll notice about these both of which were sourced from Yandle & Sons Turning the base...
T candlesticks is that, though they’re

turned, there isn’t a single curve in
their profile. Almost all the work that
I do for other people has bumps and curves in it,
so I thought it was time to challenge myself to
Ltd. Finding a piece of paduak of sufficient size
to make the base, however, was difficult, and
the only answer was to build it up by gluing
separate pieces together. To make a feature
of this necessity, I interleaved the paduak
Mount the blank between centres and set the
lathe to around 800rpm, which is fast enough
to turn something of this size. It’s never worth
the risk of putting the lathe on a high speed:
the timber won’t thank you for it, and you won’t
try something different: candlesitcks, I decided, with black veneer from Craft Supplies. thank the timber if it comes off and hits you!
with straight lines and nothing but. Starting with two pieces of timber, I planed Use the spindle roughing gouge to turn the timber
That was all well and good, of course, but up one side on each piece to get two flat surfaces; down to a cylinder, then use a parting tool to turn
the hard part was making it look right: I drew you can’t rely on a sawn face to provide a good a large diameter spigot on both ends, which will
and changed the design many times before gluing surface. A surface planer makes this job each locate in the adjacent pieces of wenge.
I was happy. When I came to turn them, the easy, though in the past I’ve used a hand-held Turning the base’s taper is straightforward:
design changed yet again in response to the electric planer. The veneer I used was only 0.7mm keep the bevel rubbing and you’ll get a good finish,
timber and grain. But then, that’s what this thick, so I used two leaves to create a definite and a good finish with the tools means less work
is all about – learning as we go. line between the two pieces of paduak when with abrasives. Keep checking the diameter both
they were glued together. When the glue had ends with Vernier callipers, and use a steel rule
Choosing & preparing the timber set, I planed one surface of the paduak, then cut to check the base is flat. The easiest way is to
Choosing the timber isn’t difficult – you just go the whole block in half, slotted more veneer in place a light behind the rule; if you can see the
for what you feel is right, whether it’s light or between the two pieces, then glued and clamped light it will need a little tweaking. To keep things
dark, home-grown or exotic. As you can see them together to create a quartered effect. flat when sanding, use a cork block with abrasive
from the photos, I chose dark timbers: wenge Once cured, I cut the paduak in half to produce wrapped around it. I start with 180 grit and work
and the darkest African paduak I’ve ever seen, two pieces large enough to make the bases. up to at least 400 before stopping the lathe and

TOOLS YOU’LL NEED
• 6mm spindle roughing gouge
• 9mm parting tool & your choice of gouge
• Screw chuck
• Jacobs chuck
• 25mm Forstner bit
• 10mm drill
17
10
45
25 14
25
Spigot
10
31
37 150
78
8
3
10
19 358
25
19
6
10
20
80
7
25
83
75
40
40
25
41 25
Drawing in millimetres 75
Fig.1 Candlesticks dimensions
8 25 Drawing in millimetres
6 28
10
18
98
10 75
25
35
100
10
120
136
148
19
157
Fig.2 Candlesticks base dimensions

1 The base is made up from blocks of paduak 2 ... which should be clamped together as tightly 3 Saw the finished block in half and check them over
and veneer... as possible to make sure the joints are tight
rubbing the abrasive up and down the grain The gouge that you see me using to turn the and put onto a jam chuck – a piece of scrap wood
to remove any sanding marks. bottom disc is a 9mm bowl gouge; I was careful with a spigot turned on it to fit the recess in the
The next job is to wipe away any dust and to refresh the edge frequently as wenge soon disc. Do the necessary turning, and then drop
seal the timber with sanding sealer, which, takes the edge off a tool. the speed down so that you can drill a hole for
once dry, can be flattened with ‘0000’ wire wool. The next step is to turn the disc to the finished the spigot on the column.
Finally, apply a good coat of polish and buff to diameter then remove the tailstock and face To do this, fix a Forstner bit into a Jacobs chuck
a sheen. If you’re making a pair of candlesticks, it up. You can now turn the slight taper on the in the tailstock, then wind the tailstock in slowly
it’s far better to make both of the bases at the edge, using an adjustable square to transfer and drill all the way through the disc. Sand and
same time while it’s all fresh in your mind. the angle to the next disc. seal the wenge, then remove it from the jam
Turn the recess for the large spigot with a chuck. The base is assembled with a little PVA
... & wenge capping 6mm parting tool. You’re aiming for a good push glue on each of the capping pieces, lining up
The base is capped top and bottom with wenge fit, remember; once you’ve achieved that, stop their grain with the base, and then clamping
discs, and providing the timber is flat on one side, turning and don’t sand it! Instead, sand the parts all three pieces together.
you can mount it straight onto the lathe with hot of the disc that will show and apply sanding
glue so that you won’t be left with any chuck or sealer. Again, when dry rub it back with ‘0000’ The column
screw holes. wire wool before applying a coat of polish – The column is turned in paduak, and is made
Turning wenge can be very dusty so it’s dark polish if you have it – before removing up of two main parts and two wenge rings;
advisable to use an extractor, especially when the disc from the lathe. the spigot that fixes the column to the base
sanding. Moreover, this timber is hard and a The cap for the top of the base is turned in is turned separately.
touch brittle, and requires careful turning. the same way except that it’s turned around Starting with the long section, you need
4 Mount the block between centres; true it up then 5 Turn the taper, taking light finishing cuts to achieve 6 ... and check the taper with a steel rule
turn the large spigot on both ends a good finish...
7 Hot glue the wenge disc onto a scrap piece of wood 8 Check the angle on the disc then transfer it to the 9 Use the parting tool to turn the recess, keeping
and turn the taper second disc a close eye on the depth

FOR BEGINNERS
When using hot glue to mount workpieces
such as the wenge discs in these candlesticks,
start by fitting a piece of scrap wood on a
faceplate or screw chuck and facing it up,
using a steel rule to make sure that it’s flat.
I then tend to apply one ring of glue on
the scrap wood; there is no point in covering
the whole thing. Stick the workpiece to the
scrap wood, and then bring the tailstock up to
clamp it in place; the glue will set in seconds,
remember, so you won’t have any time to
waste. To remove the workpiece you’ll need
10 With the upper base ring mounted on the jam 11 Glue the top and bottom rings to the base and
to give it a sharp blow with a rubber hammer;
chuck, drill a 25mm hole right through clamp them on
any glue left on the disc can then be picked
to drill a hole 25mm in diameter and 50mm the spigot from 24mm to 26mm, it’ll sit neatly off easily
deep in one end ready for the spigot that will into the hole on the column and turn without
join the column to the base. It’s better to drill any problems as long as you’re not heavy-handed The shorter, bottom section of the column is
it now because you can guarantee that the with the spindle roughing gouge. also held on a jam chuck, so drill the spigot hole
hole will be 100% in the centre. As you turn the taper, check it with a straight on a pillar drill and then mount the workpiece on
Fit the Forstner bit in the Jacobs chuck and edge to make sure that it’s straight; it may need a 25mm spigot.
mount it in the headstock. Find the centres on a little tweaking to get it right. The final turning This piece is only a simple taper, and a 9mm
either end of the paduak, and mount it between is the 10mm spigot on the thin end, which is for gouge will soon turn it into shape; use a steel
the bit and the tailstock. Now hold the paduak the drip tray. rule to check that it’s flat, and then continue
while you turn the lathe on; remember to use a Again, when sanding a long taper or cylinder, to sand and seal it.
low speed of around 400rpm as drilling in this I like to use abrasive wrapped around a cork The wenge rings between the two halves of
way at a high speed can be very dangerous. block. Moving the block slowly up and down the the column, and between the column and the
Gently wind the tailstock in; back the tailstock workpiece soon flattens the surface; lift the block drip tray, are also turned with a jam chuck. The
off every few turns to clear the debris. occasionally to remove the dust on the abrasive. larger ring has a 25mm hole drilled through it,
After drilling, the best way to mount the Work through the different grades of paper and while the smaller ring has a 10mm hole. The
workpiece on the lathe is via a jam chuck. finish on 400 grit before stopping the lathe and pieces are faced up both sides and turned to
This is one of my favourite chucks because it’s rubbing the abrasive up and down the grain to the finished thicknesses and diameters. The
home-made and doesn’t cost anything. All you eliminate any sanding marks. Give the column smaller ring at the top of the column has a
have to do is fix a scrap piece of wood onto it a good coat of sealer and when it’s dry rub back 10mm hole through it. This can also be turned
and turn a spigot about 30mm long. If you taper with ‘0000’ wire wool. on a jam chuck and parted off when finished.
12 Drilling the column: run the lathe on a low speed 13 The quickest way to flatten the surface is with 14 Hold the lower part of the column on a spigot
and wind the tailstock in slowly abrasive wrapped round a cork block chuck; turn the taper with a 9mm gouge
15 Jam the ring onto a jam chuck, face both sides, 16 The spigot is turned between centres... 17 ... but the small ring is mounted on a jam chuck
and then turn the taper and supported with the tailstock

TIP
I used Evostik’s PVA when gluing up the pieces
for the base. I’ve used this adhesive for years
now, and stand by it. You can’t just slap it on,
though: a thin layer has to be applied properly
to each surface. Once all the surfaces have
been sufficiently covered, it is advisable to
put the clamps on straight away. The more
you put on, and the tighter they are, the better.
After 15 minutes, go back and give the clamps
a further tweak, then leave them for at least
24 hours
18 Turn the recess in the drip tray with a parting tool; 19 The sconce is mounted on a screw chuck while
keep it crisp and sharp you drill the hole for...
Connecting spigot and turn the bottom; bring the tailstock up for be glued are the small collar, which slides over
This spigot plays an important role as it holds extra support if you like. Don’t forget to check the the spigot on top of the column, the drip tray,
the column to the base. It should be 25mm in taper with the steel rule before you sand and seal. and then the sconce. When both candlesticks are
diameter, 150mm long, and has to be a snug The sconce is turned in wenge with the grain glued and you are happy that all the face grains
fit in both holes. I used beech for the spigot, vertical, and the best way to mount it is on a match, put them aside and leave them to dry.
and used Vernier callipers to ensure that it’s screw chuck. Turn it to the finished diameter
even all over. There’s no point in sanding it; and then drill the hole for the brass insert using A final thought
a rougher finish will give a better bond. a Forstner bit in a chuck in the tailstock; don’t I generally polish each component on the lathe
drill any deeper than is required to house the when I’ve sanded and sealed it, but the handling
The drip tray & sconce insert. The rest of the sconce can be turned with involved in assembly soon wears the shine away.
The drip tray is also made from paduak, and a parting tool. Don’t forget to turn the 10mm When the glue has set, then I polish them by
has a 10mm hole drilled through it so that it fits spigot that fits into the drip tray. hand and this soon brings them back to life.
over the spigot on the column and underneath With this project, I was tempted to make
the sconce. Make sure it’s a tight fit on the jam Assembly two pairs because I have always wanted
chuck, then turn it to the finished diameter before The connecting spigot in the column to walk into my local hardware shop and
taking out the centre. I found that the best tool will only need a little glue. Put the say, “Four candles, please...!”
to use is a 6mm parting tool, which removed spigot into the base first, then fit
the waste quickly and kept the bottom flat. the column onto it, ensuring that
Now you can sand and seal the top. the face grain on each component
Turn the tray around, jam it onto the chuck lines up. The last three pieces to
20 ... the brass insert; check the fit and don’t drill deeper than necessary
21 Use a freshly sharpened parting tool to turn the sconce; turn slowly to ensure
you don’t tear the grain

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TECHNICAL A-Z of timber terms & jargon
WOODWORKER’S
ENCYCLOPAEDIAPART 6
In part 6 of this series, Peter Bishop
looks at butt joints, capping rails and
carborundum, to name but a few terms
wonder if you know what the definition
I of a cabinetmaker is. Do too many claim

to be one but really are they qualified to
do so? Our topical directory continues
through the Bs and just into the Cs with
some explanations to go with each entry.
BSI
The BSI Group, also known as the British
Standards Institution, is the national standards
body of the UK. It produces technical standards
on a wide range of products and services. It also
provides certification and standards and services
related to business. In a commercial environment, This conifer has one needle attached to the stem. The
accreditation to BSI standards should provide needle is flat and cannot be rolled between the fingers
customers and consumers with confidence to
buy. Currently linked into the European system, the growing season. There are exceptions,
although this may or may not change with the however. Holly, a hardwood, retains its leaves,
fallout from Brexit. and larch, a softwood, drops its needles.
Broadleaved Brown rot

A broadleaved evergreen tree from the Pacific Most broadleaved trees are deciduous; they Decay in timber due to fungal attack. This one
Northwest (Lithocarpus densiflorus) drop their leaves, unlike those with needle-like removes the cellulose compounds and leaves
Photograph courtesy of A.L. Jacobson leaves who usually retain theirs throughout a brown, soft mass.

Bullnose plane
The small, hand-held plane, with a rounded
‘bull’ nose, which is used for cleaning up corner
joints, etc.
Veritas bullnose plane
Burnishing the interior of a turned bowl using wood shavings
Burnishing
This is the process that can help prepare a surface
for waxing. Usually on hardwoods a tool with a
rounded face is rubbed on the wood surface and,
through friction, helps to seal the surface before
the wax is applied. Some restorers will burnish
and mark corners to imitate wear.
Burl or burr
H.Slater gunmetal bullnose plane This is an abnormal, knobbly, often rounded lump
growing on the outside of a tree trunk. The tree
Bullnose step has laid extra layers of wood onto an area of its
This is the shaped, bottom step of a flight of trunk that might have been damaged or affected
stairs. The shaped section, on one or both ends, by, say, insect attack. The extra mass is created
wraps around the newel post with a curve to to protect that area and is made up of densely,
finish it off. interwoven cells. The wood produced from a burr
is prized for its character and beauty, especially
Bull’s eye window for veneers.
The common name for a window with a round,
fixed or opening. Generally used as a decorative
feature. Old glass can also have bull’s eyes, which
are usually in the centre of the pane. This round,
obscure section is created when glass is spun
to create a flat section at the outer edges. The
good stuff was flat and clear; the cheap stuff, Burrs on the trunk of an old oriental plane tree
from the middle, was thicker and obscure. A burr elm board on the Trinity College campus in Dublin, Ireland
Bull’s eye window in castle Bull’s eye window at Hammond-Harwood House, Maryland

TECHNICAL A-Z of timber terms & jargon
Butt
The butt is the base of a tree trunk nearest
to the stump from whence it was cut.
Butt hinge
Probably the most common and simple hinge
we use and one that has been around for a long
time. The butt hinge comes in a wide range of
sizes and materials for every conceivable job.
There are variations on the theme that include
‘rising’ butt hinges that lift the door as it opens
creating clearance; ideal if the adjacent floor Wooden button head plug
is sloping upwards, and some that can have
the hinge pin taken out so that one part can Buttons
be demounted without taking the hinges off. Buttons are traditionally made from wood
but today there are a number of other options
available. However, the key function of a button
remains the same whatever the material might
be. They are used as fixings that allow two,
unglued adjoining surfaces to move under
pressure. The most common example will
be fixing a solid wood table top to a sub frame.
Because the top is a wide, single or joined piece Some of the old tropical trees have trunks like flying
of wood it will want to move across the grain buttresses for strength. The flying buttresses of this
slightly. When fixed with buttons this movement tree extend to the sides in swirls
is accommodated. If a permanent, possibly
Cabinet butt hinge glued fix is made, the top will most likely split. little or no idea claims to be something they
are not. At the very least a college course or a
Buttress number of years working with a specialist might
There are two types of buttress we might come substantiate a claim. So, if you’re looking for a
across. The first will be a mechanical structure cabinetmaker, check out their credentials, or,
that helps to maintain the stability of a wall. Think if you want to become one, research the route
of a church buttress and how this is built to make to a qualification.
sure the wall which it supports stays in place.
The other buttress we might observe are those Callipers
found around the bases of trees. These act in I use callipers for a variety of jobs in the workshop.
the same way; providing stability so that the The most easily recognisable ones are the simple
tree can reach for the light and therefore grow. examples that can be used to measure internal
or external dimensions. Some have sprung
Cabinetmaking heads and winders for fairly accurate readings
Carlisle Brass double stainless steel The definition of cabinetmaking is simply ‘the and others are more basic. The fine measuring
washered butt hinge craft of making fine furniture’, and the definition callipers, like Vernier gauges, can measure to
of furniture is a self-contained, free-standing parts of a millimetre. I use mine to check screw
Butt joint piece – not something that is built in. When sizes and also find the right sized drill bit to bore
A simple joint that may join end- or side-grain it becomes part of the fabric of a building, the appropriate pilot hole.
pieces of wood together. As long as the adjoining that’s joinery. Historically, to call yourself a
faces are flat, straight and square, a good joint cabinetmaker, you’d have been a time-served
can be made. When using this joint the more glue apprentice under a master craftsman. With
that can be rubbed into the touching surfaces, the so many changes to the way we work over
better. This action enables the glue to penetrate the last half century, finding a master craftsman
into the wood pores, thus making a better key has become difficult. Too often someone with
and joint.
Butt joint explained Another example of a butt joint Axminster spring callipers

Forest canopy in Coromandel, New Zealand
Canopy such as a chisel. It’s a

In the cycle of growth all plants strive to reach man-made product,
the sky and sunlight. Those that make it over carbide of silicon,
their competitors will benefit from the natural made by heating Carborundum stone for sharpening
elements that help it become strong and survive. coke with sand in a
The tree tops are called canopies and, collectively, furnace. Different grades are produced that will
they can block out light, thus stunting the growth finish our tools in stages. Used as an oilstone, with
of anything below. the added application of light oil or something
similar, we can hone our edges on a block of
Capillarity carborundum, which will have a coarse face on
Water, among other liquids, has the amazing one side and a fine, finishing face on the other.
Cambium: where all secondary growth occurs capacity to creep upwards above its own natural
in a tree level. We become aware of this when designing Carcass
joinery that faces the elements such as windows This term is used to describe the sub structure of,
Cambium layer and doors. In most cases you’ll see this in action for example, a piece of furniture. The inner frames,
This is the cellular layer directly underneath the on the lower, outer face of a window cill evidenced back, bottoms, etc. can be called the carcass and
inner layer of bark, the bast or phloem, of a tree by a small groove. Although the sloping, upper could use up some of the lower quality materials.
trunk and between that and the outer woody surface will shed water, it could creep back in The best wood should be saved for the surfaces
layers of sapwood – the xylem. It’s fascinating underneath; the groove prevents this if it is that are seen the most.
stuff and well worth a look to see how trees designed correctly.
grow, their structure and how that might affect
the design of a project. Capping rail
A simple rail that most commonly runs along
the top of a fence structure. It will most probably
have two sloping, upper surfaces to help shed
water and protect the panels below.
Carborundum
We’ll use a carborundum stone or slip in the
workshop to put the final edge on a cutting tool
Walnut and steel
drinks cabinet carcass
ready for finishing
Photograph courtesy
of Heliconia Furniture
NEXT MONTH
In the next issue, Peter
looks at more terms
from carpentry joints
Long hanging unit to chase mortise
Vernier callipers Assorted slip and carborundum stones furniture carcass

POSTBAG In your own write...
LETTERS CARBIDE INSERTS & SPRAY GUNS

Two questions for you:
LETTER OF THE MONTH

1. The April edition of The Woodworker &
Good Woodworking had a fascinating article
about alternative lathe tools called ‘carbide
inserts’. Like many, I only use the lathe to make
WOODWORKER accessories for other woodwork, so these tools
sound ideal for me. However, the article didn’t
SUPER FAN explain the title. Can I ask why they are called
Dear Tegan, ‘carbide inserts’ and what do they insert into?
From this month’s The Woodworker & Good 2. Some years ago, I wrote to the magazine They spray high volume at a low pressure, so there is
Woodworking, May issue, page 3, ‘fabulous about spray guns. I was looking for something very little overspray. If you were one of my students,
Group Editor Tegan Foley’ – thank heavens to produce a more professional varnish finish I would suggest a wipe-on poly finish rather than
for your editorship! ‘fan mail’, ‘rock star status’ than I can achieve with a brush, but priced brushing or spraying. Several thin, fast-drying coats
– thank you! A bit wordy I know, but I always at the hobby level. I was looking at the Fuji will quickly build up a very respectable finish at any
wanted to email, and you’re involved with a – www.axminster.co.uk/fuji-semi-pro2-hvlp- gloss level, and there is no great expertise required.
gorgeous magazine. I’ve been buying it since spray-system-501285 – but am sure there are Regards, John English
the early ‘80s. I love woodworking. I completed others. I was asking the magazine for an article/
my apprenticeship from 1969/1974 and am a comparison-test, including what equipment Additional response from Colin Simpson:
furniture maker, but also do joinery, carpentry, and accessories I would need and what skills
make toys and also do repairs. I’m grateful you are required to achieve a decent finish, etc. The Hi John, I use an airbrush with a small compressor
guys are there, but a special,l, huge cheers to reply then was that suppliers would not loan on some of my work, not the type of spray gun you
you on this occasion, Tegan!
n! such expensive equipment to the magazine for talk about in your email. The Fuji you’re looking at is
Best wishes, Sammy Boglee review. I wondered if that had changed at all? a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray gun and
I would still be in the market for something like I am afraid I know very little about them. There are
Hi Sammy, thank you so this but would never risk my hard-earned cash also airless spray guns, which are cheaper but do
much for your wonderful without having more confidence that I could a different job. I’ve heard the following analogy:
email. Your words really get it to work – i.e. the kind of professional “An HVLP is a substitute for a brush. An airless is
do mean a great deal! guidance that the magazine could provide. a substitute for a roller.” I am assuming you want
I’d love to feature this in Anything you could do to help? the greater accuracy that a HVLP system can offer?
our letters section and All the best, John D There are much cheaper HVLP units on the market
will also include a few than the Fuji. You can buy HVLP systems from
photos of your work. Hi John, thanks for your email. Each tool has a around £80 but this one – www.airsupplies.co.uk/
Many thanks again and replaceable small flat tungsten carbide cutter, held in apollo-spraymaster-1200-hvlp-spray-system – from
I hope you continue to place at the tip of the tool by a screw. When the edge Apollo is in between the cheaper ones and the Fuji.
enjoy the magazine for One of a pair of wooden gets dull (which takes a very long time), the cutter can As with most things these days, there is a
many years to come! filing cabinets made be rotated 90° and a new, sharp edge is presented to considerable amount of information online, including
Best wishes, Tegan for a client’s office the wood. After four turns, the cutter can be replaced reviews, techniques and tips. I’m sorry I can’t be more
at a relatively low cost. This system completely helpful without doing a lot of research myself.
eliminates the need for sharpening. Please note you Best wishes, Colin Simpson
need a separate tool for each insert profile (square,
round and diamond shaped). Unfortunately they are
not interchangeable.
Regarding the sprayer, in my opinion the low-
end electric ones won’t deliver a great finish as
they don’t atomise or deliver as well as a pneumatic
Patio planter for (air pressure) system. However, there are several
furniture recycle project, inexpensive HVLP systems on the market, all of
Gloucester Dock which will deliver great results with a little practice.
CANDLESTICK TURNING QUERY

Hi Tegan,
I have a few questions for Les Thorne regarding Hi Konrad, thanks for your email. I am happy to
his recent candlesticks article. Could you please, answer your questions regarding my candlesticks
if possible, pass them on and I will wait for a reply. article. I’m limited to the number of steps I can
Step 32 shows hardboard discs in the bottom include (usually 35 maximum) and, as a result,
of the base: what is the purpose of these, when sometimes have to omit certain bits of information.
and how were the recesses made, and how did The base bottom was trued up while held on the
Les true the bottoms of the base blanks – was screw chuck; the recess was cut first with a gouge
it before mounting on the screw chuck? followed by a skew used in scraping mode; this
I’m asking because there appears to be a allows the jaws of the chuck to expand into the
gap between steps 8 and 9, as it goes from hole to allow the shaping of the top. The hardboard
the base blank attached to a MDF spacer to disc is used to fill the recess before you put the
the base blank attached directly to the scroll baize on the bottom, which affords you a nice Les Thorne’s candlestick pair, featured in the
chuck. I look forward to completing this project. flat surface. I hope this all makes sense. February 2019 issue, offers turners a good
Many thanks, Konrad Plachta Best regards, Les Thorne opportunity to practise their copy turning skills

READERS’ HINTS & TIPS
For the next seven issues, in conjunction with Veritas and BriMarc Tools & Machinery, we’re giving one lucky reader per month the chance to get their
hands on a fantastic low-angle jack plane, worth over £250! Ideal for shooting mitres, working end-grain and initial smoothing, this must-have hand tool
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of kit, just email your top workshop hint or tip to [email protected], and if you can, please also attach a photo illustrating your tip in action.
Good luck! To find out more about Veritas tools, see www.brimarc.com
VARIOUS WORKSHOP TIPS

Tip 1– I needed to create some awkward shapes in aluminium and didn’t
fancy doing them by hand, so elected to use my angle grinder. I could have
held the items in a vice and used the angle grinder freehand, but didn’t
feel this was the safest way, so I set out to make something to hold it
in and ended up with a timber collar, which holds it securely in the vice
at any angle (photo 1), so I can now offer the aluminium to a secure blade.
In order to achieve this I had to form the correct diameter hole to fit
the angle grinder (photo 3), and wasn’t sure how to accomplish this.
Fortunately, I remembered I had a small circle jig, which, in the past, had
been described in a woodworking magazine and I’d also found details 1 Angle grinder held in the jig 2 Circle cutting jig and guide bush
in Mastering the Router. To make one I first had to construct the guide bush and vice, ready for use guide on workbench
guide, then the circle cutting jig, both of which are shown in photo 2 sitting
on my well-used version of the saw bench described in the April 2018
issue. It all worked out well.
Tip 2 – Years ago, I made a router table and cupboard, but never got
round to fitting an efficient device to raise and lower the router in it, so I
decided to sort it out and obtained an unused car screw jack from my local
car breaker. In order to make it fit under the router, I had to cut out a well
and reinforce the bottom. The jack sits in the well and can be easily used
to set the router bit to the correct height. This can then be set using its own
lever. It didn’t take long and the jack only cost £5 (their minimum charge!). 3 The jig with the appropriate size 4 Well in router table to hold the jack
All I have to do is fit a comfortable handle to turn the jack, but this isn’t a hole and restraining nut and bolt
priority (photos 4-6).
Regards, Alan Hughes
THE LATE DON GILL

Hello Tegan,
My friend, Don Gill, passed away this morning. He had several articles
published in The Woodworker. He was a very gifted craftsman, who made
woodwind instruments. One article I still have is about how he made a small
organ. He also made a model replica of a seed drill, which was on display
at Reading Museum of English Rural Life, but has now been relegated to
the reserve collection, like a lot of other interesting artefacts. He was also
a long serving volunteer with Tools for Self Reliance.
I thought some readers might like to know this. 5 The jack set in the well 6 Router in the table with the jack
With regards, Philip Davies in position
Hi Philip, thanks for your email. I will include this in our letters section so people
will be able to find out. It sounds like Don made many great contributions to the
magazine over the years, as well as volunteering for such a worthy cause as Tools NEW FLEXIBLE CURVE ROUTING
for Self Reliance. I’m sure he will be sorely missed by family, friends as well as GUIDE TEMPLATE ACCESSORY
those in the wider woodworking community. An 8mm thick mini flexible curve used to make templates,
Best wishes, Tegan enabling a shape to be cut repeatedly with precision.
p Used in conjunction with a self-guided
cutter, a router or router table.
WRITE & WIN! p

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used when guided with a guide bush.
Includes fixing screws.
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CATALOGUE
RATED EXCELLENT
AROUND THE HOUSE WITH PHIL DAVY

Ever wonder why you go to such lengths with certain jobs? When decorating a bedroom
recently I discovered the skirting had been fitted really badly. Not only had screws not been
countersunk adequately, adjoining pieces along one wall were at slightly different levels,
creating a small step. To expose the screw heads meant scraping with a knife, then digging
out slots with a bradawl point. Screws could then be extracted, though this didn’t work every
time. Where the driver bit failed to shift them I drilled holes around the head so I could use
pliers to grasp the screw. Pretty frustrating…
I sometimes wonder if it’s worth the time and hassle (especially on a Bank holiday),
particularly when most of this skirting would be hidden by furniture. But there was the
undeniable satisfaction of rectifying what had been a poor job. Now, you’d be hard pushed
to tell there had ever been a problem.
OUT & ABOUT

RYOBI REVISITED
Reminiscent of a jousting tournament location This is the chance for industry buyers from
or Sealed Knot re-enactment, the cluster of across Europe to check out an array of new
hyper green tents pitched on the sweeping lawns products due to be launched over the next
of Berkshire’s Wokefield Park could mean only year or so, with plenty of innovative items
one thing. With the sun high in the sky, it was to get our hands on. And hardly a corded tool
time for Ryobi’s annual power tool extravaganza. in sight, apart from a pressure washer or two.

AROUND THE HOUSE with Phil Davy
Cordless craft
With more cordless tools supported by a 18V
battery platform than any other DIY brand, it’s
hardly surprising that virtually all Ryobi indoor
products revolve around their ONE+ range. Many
of the products on demo were powered by the
long-awaited 3Ah High Energy battery, which
you can track down in some stores now. Ryobi’s
outdoor products (lawnmowers, chainsaws
and garden equipment) tend to be either 18V
Many of the products on demo were powered by For dolls’ house, model makers or anyone working
the long-awaited 3Ah High Energy battery, which on smaller scale projects, their imminent ONE+
you can track down in some stores now rotary tool offers plenty of potential
(ONE+ again) or 36V on the heavier products. last! You may find this already in certain stores.
Responding to the growing hobbyist market, If future summer temperatures are going to
Ryobi are expanding into cordless craft tools. For be anything like those of 2018, keeping cool
dolls’ house, model makers or anyone working in the workshop will be a priority for many of
on smaller scale projects, their imminent ONE+ us. Shifting serious amounts of air, Ryobi’s
rotary tool offers plenty of potential, while the massive ONE+ floor fan will be a welcome
nifty new Power File is likely to win a wide range addition. It’s not too noisy, either. You’ll have
of woodworking fans. Essentially a slim, mini belt to wait until 2020 for this product, though.
sander, this hand-held tool will also sit neatly on
the bench, making it easier to use and store. With
obvious applications such as sanding intricate
woodwork, de-rusting metalwork, sharpening
edge tools such as axes or removing paintwork,
this will be a great tool for the workshop or
renovation work outdoors. And run time is
apparently pretty good, too.
More specifically aimed at woodworkers,
I found the improved ONE+ brushless jigsaw
particularly controllable on tight cuts, with
tool-free bevel adjustment making it easy to set
for angled sawing. Expect to see this on sale from The improved ONE+ brushless jigsaw is particularly
late summer onwards. And there’s a couple of controllable on tight cuts, with tool-free bevel
new recip saws for heavier demolition work, too. adjustment making it easy to set for angled sawing
Essentially a slim, mini belt sander, the nifty new Massive fan So, potentially a truckload of hyper green cordless
Power File will also sit neatly on the bench, making For first-fix carpentry a nail gun speeds up work tools launched in coming months, many of which
it easier to use and store considerably, with Ryobi’s ONE+ AirStrike tools we aim to feature in our test pages. They may be
a popular DIY choice. But if you want the scope a DIY brand, but one or two Ryobi products are
of air tools then their new, heavy-duty ONE+ beginning to rival professional brands in terms
compressor looks the business. Teamed with of performance. Exciting times ahead for power
a suitable gun, it should be the ideal tool for tool fans!
fitting skirting, architrave, jig-building and
quick assembly tasks around the workshop. FURTHER INFORMATION
For those of us who like to dabble in simple To find out more about Ryobi Tools UK, see
electronics or wiring, there’s even a cordless https://uk.ryobitools.eu
soldering iron on its way. Outdoor soldering at
If you want the scope of air tools then their new, Shifting serious amounts of air, Ryobi’s massive For those of us who like to dabble in simple
heavy-duty ONE+ compressor looks the business ONE+ floor fan will be a welcome addition electronics or wiring, there’s even a cordless soldering
iron on its way

TO GET YOUR
FREE
CATALOGUE
RATED EXCELLENT
SUMMER PROJECT
OAK GARDEN TRAY
Takes: One weekend
Tools you’ll need: Router, jigsaw, sander, drillstand
GOING POTTY
Phil Davy’s tray is made from recycled oak
which will now have a new life in his garden
During a major clear out last year I unearthed Slats for the base mean drainage from damp fence and sacrificial board will still make it
an old plans chest that had definitely seen better plants or soil should not be a problem, though feasible. Dividers and handle fit into housings
days. Although made from oak, it had been these could be fitted closer together to make a a third the thickness of the outer tray timber.
exposed to the elements and most of it had multi-purpose tray. Great for the home office or To get a snug fit it’s best to rout the housings
rotted away. Fortunately, I was able to salvage a kitchen, though you may want to reduce overall first, then thickness the divider material so this
few drawer fronts and sides, the timber displaying size for indoor use, or adjust the divider spacings. is a sliding fit. That way you’re thicknessing to
some lovely figure. It was limited in dimensions, As it is, you can just fit a 76mm-diameter plastic match the router bit diameter exactly.
and I wondered how best to use this attractive pot in each compartment. If you don’t enjoy Stop the housings 5mm below the top edges
oak. The answer was this garden tray, compact cutting dovetails, this project is ideal for finger of the tray. The handle and dividers are cross-
enough not to take up too much space but with jointing the corners. A dedicated finger-jointing halved so they slot together. Use brass or copper
sufficient capacity for transferring plants to the router jig makes the technique straightforward, pins to secure them to the tray sides, though
garden or holding a few small tools. though if you have a decent router table, a sliding pre-drill holes first.

75mm
Dividers
10mm thick
75mm
295mm Scale 1:2 200mm
Fig.1 Garden tray dimensions
1 When recycling timber always remove old screws 2 Inspect all surfaces closely for defects and cut off 3 True up the face edge of side and end pieces
or nails first. If rusted, plan saw cuts to avoid defects damaged ends. Thickness the clean timber to 10mm with a bench plane and shooting board. Check with
a straightedge
4 Trim ends square on a shooting board. Cramp 5 Mark each tray component for width and cramp 6 Saw sides and ends 2mm over-length for trimming
pieces together, face edge down, and plane to width together. Place on a flat surface and plane to width joints later. Scribe shoulder lines for dovetails with a
marking knife
7 Space dovetails to allow for a 5mm rebate at 8 Mark out tails with a sliding bevel set at an 1:8 9 Set a gauge to 5mm and mark a rebate for the
the lower edge. Cramp boards together and square angle (for hardwood). Alternatively, use a dovetail bottom slats. Pencil in waste to be removed between
lines across marker gauge the tails

TO GET YOUR
FREE
CATALOGUE
RATED EXCELLENT
10 Secure both tail boards tightly in a vice at an 11 Remove waste between tails with a coping saw, 12 Cramp the square timber block along the
angle. Cut down sides of tails with a dovetail saw keeping the blade teeth clear of the shoulder line shoulder line to keep the chisel upright when
paring back between tails
13 Cramp the pin board in a vice and lay the tail 14 Pencil in waste between the pins. Saw down 15 Remove any waste with a coping saw as before.
piece across horizontally. Carefully mark out pins sides of the pins to form the sockets, keeping the Pare back to the shoulder line with a bevel-edge
from the cut tails blade level chisel
16 Holding the chisel at the correct angle, trim sides 17 Create a 5mm-deep rebate along the bottom 18 Cramp parts together and cut 3mm-deep
of the pins (sockets) as necessary. Check joints fit, edges for the slats. Cut this on a router table to housings for the dividers. Run the router against
and adjust ensure accuracy a guide batten
19 Housings are stopped 5mm below the top 20 Clean up inner surfaces and check for fit. 21 Once the glue has dried, trim protruding dovetails
edges. Square rounded ends neatly with a chisel Glue and cramp up the tray, checking for square flush with a finely-set block plane

22 If required, glue boards together to achieve 23 Draw the handle cutout with a flexible curve 24 Mark hole centres and cramp the board to
sufficient width for the carrying handle. Thickness or arched steel rule. Allow enough width for the some backing material. Bore ends of the cutout
when dry sanding drum with a 25mm flat bit
25 Remove remaining waste between holes with 26 Clean up the cutout with a 25mm sanding drum 27 The handle and dividers are slotted together.
a jigsaw. Use this for sawing the tapered edges or rasp and file. Smooth edges with abrasives Mark out halving joints and carefully cut away
of the handle the waste
28 Thickness slats to 24 × 5mm and saw to length.

These can be pinned or screwed into the rebates
29 Rout a small decorative chamfer along the edges 30 Brush on two coats of finishing oil, wiping off after a few minutes. Alternatively, add wax if intended
of the tray and dividers. Sand with 180 grit abrasive for indoor use

FEATURE Building a giant trebuchet
Photographs courtesy of
Carpenter Oak Ltd,
unless otherwise stated
BUILDING A
GIANT TREBUCHET FOR
OUTLAW KING
John Greeves talks to Fergus Stuart about the
work the Scottish team at Carpenter Oak undertook
during the construction of a medieval trebuchet
1 Warwick Castle trebuchet in action 2 Warwick Castle trebuchet throwing arm, with
Photographs courtesy of Warwick Castle counter weight treadmills and projectile visible
Edward I cuts the securing rope
C
arpenter Oak Ltd is a UK and from the Framing Yard in Loch of Lintrathen to hurl the projectile towards Stirling
world renowned business that has in Scotland, about an exciting project the firm castle. Some of these details are
pioneered the use of structural timber has recently undertaken. He has been here since not visible here and would have
for sympathetic restoration for over 2008, working seven years in the workshop been added later by CGI–
30 years as well as building new and innovative before moving into the office to handle sales photograph courtesy
timber-framed structures. This employee-owned and concept design as well as being involved of Netflix
company has undertaken many ground-breaking in project management.
commissions and continues to combine technical
design with master craftsmanship and the use of
exquisite materials. Its uniquely skilled teams are
based in Devon, Cornwall, Wiltshire and Scotland
and no task, it seems, is too big. I was fortunate to
talk to Fergus Stuart, Design & Project Consultant
3 Trebuchet re-enactment 4 The mighty trebuchet at Warwick Castle with fireball

Photographs courtesy of Warwick Castle

Building the world’s largest
working siege machine NOTES.....................................................
XF? dwg CF?? - denotes Frame

number, drawing
number and direction
of view
Curved timbers are
In 2005, Carpenter Oak Ltd undertook the

subject to availability
of curved grain oak
and deflection may be
different than shown
on drawing
II denotes adjacent
timbers faced flush
construction of the world’s largest working siege refer to frame

Engineer's calculations
for Green Oak timber
grades
machine as a commission for Warwick Castle at

their Wiltshire yard. The trebuchet was 18m tall
and made from over 300 pieces of oak, weighing
in at 22 tonnes (photo 1). The siege machine was
built with drawings from the Danish living history
museum, Middelaldercentret. The research into
the construction of the medieval trebuchet was
initially undertaken by Dr Peter Vemming. Under
his guidance, the Warwick Castle trebuchet was
constructed at the Wiltshire yard. It was made
largely of oak with a long throwing arm
consisting of more flexible ash.
How it works: main component parts

A trebuchet works with gravity. Essentially,
this siege engine owes its origins to the ancient
sling and has been used by many cultures down
through the ages. It basically consists of five main
parts: the frame, counterweight, firing arm, sling Trebuchet Base
1:25 @ A1 This drawing and its content is Copyright. It may be used once for its intended purpose only under a contract with Carpenter Oak & Woodland Co. Ltd.
The Framing Yard, Loch of Lintrathen, Kirriemuir, Angus, DD8 5JA tel 01575 560393 fax 01575 560295
and guide chute (photos 1 & 2). The firing arm

and counterweight are like the long and short 5 Detailed drawings of the trebuchet base

6 Completed truncated trebuchet at 7 Edward I approaches the trebuchet. Detail of 8 Edward cuts the securing rope to hurl the projectile
reconstruction yard firing arm and Stirling Castle to be added by CGI towards Stirling castle. These details to be later
Photographs courtesy of Netflix added by CGI
hands of a clock, attached at a fulcrum; the long Productions Ltd, who had been set up to
arm holds the firing sling and the short arm holds manage the feature length Netflix film Outlaw
the counterweight. The trebuchet is prepared for King, about building a new trebuchet for the film.
firing by lowering the long arm and raising the In this film, David Mackenzie (Director) retells
short arm, usually with a winch but in the case the story of Robert the Bruce and his 14th century
of the Warwick trebuchet, with the use of two defiance against the English king, Edward I, which
treadmills. When the counterweight has not been ended in a historic victory for Scotland. The film
tensioned, both arms hang plumb. When the arm encapsulates a world full of beards, smocks,
has been lowered and locked in place, the sling monks with tonsures, smokey bonfires, medieval
is loaded with a projectile, which is then released feasting and battle scenes, but alas, no scene
by the trigger causing the projectile to be hurled showing Robert the Bruce hiding in a cave with
towards its target (photos 3 & 4). The Warwick- a co-starring spider. It was Loudoun Production’s
based trebuchet took eight men half an hour job to recreate the period with sets and props,
(four men running on the two 4m treadmills) to costumes and whatever it took, so hence the offer
lift the counter weight, weighing 6 tonnes, ready to Fergus and his team to build a replica trebuchet
for firing. In 2006, the trebuchet proved to be the for the crucial Stirling Castle siege scene. Fergus
most powerful of its type in existence, sending explains: “They were familiar with the Warwick
a projectile weighing 13kg 249m at a speed of Castle trebuchet and who made it.” The production
121mph. The Warwick trebuchet also literally company had obtained full working drawings of
9 Beginnings of the trebuchet base (half of) hit the headlines when the Telegraph reported the trebuchet, which the Scottish Yard then used
around this time that: “Hundreds of tourists in its construction. “We didn’t need to translate
have been evacuated from Warwick Castle after a them into ‘frame drawings’, which we do in a
burning cannonball fired from the world’s largest conventional project, such was the detail of
working siege machine destroyed a medieval their diagrams,” Fergus says (photo 5).
boathouse by fire.” This certainly demonstrated Although very similar to the Warwick Castle
the lethal potency of siege weaponry, even design, the Outlaw King trebuchet differed in the
in the 21st century. fact it was only two-thirds the height of the earlier
Warwick Castle reconstruction. This truncated
The Outlaw King trebuchet version was 4.5m in height and built of Douglas
As well as creating a new Guinness World Record fir rather than oak. The finish was to be ‘aged’,
for the most powerful siege engine of its type, the so Douglas fir was more cost effective than oak
trebuchet also served to have a bearing on future (photo 6). All the moving parts of the firing arm
events, as Fergus Stuart would discover. In 2017, were omitted. The moving parts you see in the
10 The spine beam is scarfed together Fergus received an unusual enquiry from Loudoun film, such as the firing arm hurling a burning
11 Chassis and ladder frame assembled on site 12 The ladder frame’s main function is to support 13 The guide chute is positioned on top of the ladder
the two A-frames

15 The trigger arm is very visible on the Warwick 16 A-Frame wedged and keyed with traditional
Castle trebuchet joinery
longitudinally. The ladder frame comprises to turn. Nevertheless, the team made it so
of two beams (12.45m) running parallel to one they could. The treadmills rotate on axles either
another with intermediate crossbeams, 300 × side of the truncated A-frames and are held in
300mm, linking them together (photos 11 & 12). place by an outer and inner axle post and axle
The ladder frame is jointed with through-tenons blocks (photo 20). The outer axle posts also
and wedged keys, and cogged over the perimeter have supporting diagonal struts to give cross
beams using simple 38mm lap joints. Attached to rigidity to the structure (photo 21).
the firing end is a guide chute (photo 13). A guide
14 Trigger arm chute guides the sling through the frame and Prior testing
supports the enclosed projectile until acceleration Before any work was undertaken on the
projectile towards Sterling Castle, are all is sufficient to hold it in the sling. At the same trebuchet, a working scale model was built
created by CGI (Computer Generated Imagery). end a trigger arm is to be found (photo 14). This by two of Carpenter Oak’s travelling French
In the Netflix photos you see the replica Edward is primarily a small A-frame on which the firing carpenters from the Compagnon du Devoir (see
I called ‘War Wolf’, built by Fergus and his team. arm bears when the trebuchet is tensioned and foot note). These trainee carpenters made a 1:5
In the 14th century it was believed to be the ready to fire. A shackle and pin holds the firing scale prototype of the trebuchet, complete with a
largest trebuchet ever built. CGI is later used arm down to the A-frame and when released, finely-tuned counterweight, which when tested,
in this example to add the detail of Stirling Castle the trebuchet fires (photo 15). The ladder frame’s was capable of firing a projectile 45m (photo 22).
in the background (not visible here) as well as main function is to support two A-frames, which “As a result of building a fully working replica
simulating the actual firing by the actor (Stephen are the primary vertical structure of the trebuchet. model 1:5 scale, we were confident,” Fergus tells
Dillance), who plays Edward I, as he cuts the These are mortise & tenoned into the frame
securing rope of the firing arm with his sword ladder at the bottom and wedged and keyed to
to release the burning projectile (photos 7 & 8). the cross member towards the truncated top
(photos 16 & 17). A central vertical inner axle post
Overview of the main components for the treadmill is mortised & tenoned into the
The chassis (base) is a diamond base comprising cross-beam of the A-frame and frame ladder.
of 300 × 300mm Douglas fir beams that measure There are further axle posts on the outer sides
8.8m along each axis around its perimeter, which of the treadmill, and these have a wheel height
are held together with mortise & tenon joinery of 4.5m (photo 18). By comparison to other
(photo 9). The perimeter beams are tenoned primary components, they are much smaller
into the lateral spine beam and then pegged. The in section, typically speaking from about 35-
spine beam uses 400 × 400mm beams and has 200mm. Fergus explains how the A-frame,
an overall length of 12.6m. This is made of two in turn, provides the support for the axles and
pieces, which are scarfed together (photo 10). treadmills (photo 19). As the film employed CGI,
On top of the chassis is a ladder frame running there wasn’t any necessity for the treadmills 17 Wedged and keyed A-frame
18 The treadmills have a height of 4.5m 19 The treadmills rotate on axles either side 20 Axle block in construction
of the truncated A-frames. Note the axle block

21 The outer axle posts also have supporting 22 Scale model of the trebuchet 23 Bespoke ironmongery – axle block straps
diagonal struts to give cross rigidity to the structure
me, “that the jointing on our full-scale replica timber joints, making a traditional hand-forged capabilities to build a ‘fully engineered’ trebuchet.
was workable and this gave us confidence in trigger arm, as well as numerous rosehead nails, “Having had the opportunity to refresh the skills
our carpentry for the full-scale trebuchet.” which were used throughout the build (photos and techniques learnt on the original Warwick
24 & 25). Castle trebuchet 14 years ago, as a team the
Full-scale construction of the trebuchet “These were used to fix secondary components, knowledge is here to reproduce these war
The trebuchet is essentially built bottom-up, whereas all primary structural members were machines efficiently and with confidence –
starting with the chassis or base, then the traditionally jointed with mortise & tenons and we look forward to the next one!”
ladder frame, which in turn bears the two main pegged joinery. There were some areas where
A-frames, followed by the axle and tread wheels. there was also wedged and dovetail joinery,” FURTHER INFORMATION
According to Fergus, the trickiest part of the Fergus adds. Foot note:
construction is the assembly of the axle blocks The full-scale replica for the Netflix production The Compagnons du Devoir, full name
and treadmills. “The axle block is the last part Outlaw King was a first for the Scottish team, Compagnons du Devoir et du Tour de France,
of the jigsaw, which clamps the axle in place and the Warwick trebuchet having been built in the is a French organisation of craftsmen and
there’s no means for traditional timber joinery in Wiltshire yard. The siege machine was built artisans dating from the Middle ages. Their
this area. It’s reliant on the restraining straps and and delivered in eight weeks from the day of
traditional, technical education includes taking
that’s why the hand-forged restraining straps ordering the Scottish fir (photo 26). With the
a tour, the Tour de France, around France and
around the axle block are critical,” he says trebuchet critical to the siege scene in the film,
doing apprenticeships with masters. For
(photo 23). the Scottish yard became the go-to firm at the
a young man or young woman today, the
All the ironmongery was made by the carpenter time to deliver this unique commission. As Fergus
Compagnonnage is a traditional mentoring
and resident blacksmith, Graham Butler, as were says: “To think we were the company that got
network through which to learn a trade
all the other hand-forged iron items including the phone call says a lot about us. It was great
while developing character by experiencing
forged metal work for strengthening timber-to- fun to work on and the guys really enjoyed it.”
community life and travelling
Recently, the yard had another call from a
private individual who was exploring the option
of a similar war machine. With all the working Carpenter Oak Ltd – www.carpenteroak.com
drawings and jointing details, Fergus is confident Warwick Castle – www.warwick-castle.com
that whether it’s for the film industry or for Netflix – www.netflix.com/gb
an individual in the future, they have the
24 Hand-forged restraining straps
25 Rosehead nail 26 Pre-site assembly

TURNING Yarn bowl
SPINNING A YARN
Perfect for the knitting enthusiast in your life,
Les Thorne shares his take on a yarn bowl design in air-dried ash
In all my years of turning I hadn’t come across a yarn bowl until about five years
ago when my good friend and fellow production turner, Gary Rance, told me that
he’d been commissioned to make some. Then about a month ago, I got a phone
call from a guy who wanted to come on a course to make a yarn bowl for his
daughter, so I thought it’d be a good idea to share what we learnt on that day.
Yarn bowls are often ceramic and come in a variety of sizes with the 150 ×
80mm size being popular for a single ball of wool with a bigger version like the
one I am making here suited to multiple balls. I researched designs online and
there seemed to be many, with the slot from a simple groove to an ornate
scroll. The other design feature that some of them had was a couple of drilled
holes for the needles to fit in, but we decided to omit that part. For this project,
you need to ensure you achieve an even wall thickness and the style of bowl
also requires an undercut rim – all design features that can be added to your
future fruit, salad and decorative bowls.

1 The piece of air-dried ash I’m using here measures 2 This piece of plastic has definitely seen better 3 As normal with a blank this size, I’m going to hold
200 × 100mm. It does have a split, but I should be days and is available from Craft Supplies USA; the bowl on a screw chuck. After drilling a hole, I like
able to remove that when it comes to shaping the it offers the simplest way of finding the centre to put some paste wax in the hole so the woodworm
outside, as long as I remember to mount it on the of a disc screw cuts a good thread and holds the bowl firmly
lathe the right way round against the front of the jaws
4 Sharpening is seen to be a dark art by many 5 To ensure your tool is being presented in the best 6 The easiest way to mark out the diameter of the
woodturners, but most of the guesswork can be way possible, try cutting the wood manually by first chuck spigot is to use a pair of dividers set to the
removed with the aid of a good quality sharpening rotating the blank against the cutting edge. If the tool diameter of the jaws: the right-hand point is used
system, such as the Tormek jigs I’m using here. angle is correct, you should create a nice curly shaving to scratch a groove that will line up with the other
In this case, I have them mounted on a dry grinder right-hand point
with a CBN wheel
7 If you want to get the strongest and most accurate 8 The bowl will have a top that curves in; this shape 9 The perfectly formed spigot, which will be removed
grip, the dovetail angle on the spigot is critical. can take some practice to master but these two at the end of the project. The flat area is the base
I normally guess but it is fun to see how accurate lines help immensely. Keeping the flat there as long that the bowl will sit on and will be located on
I am by measuring with a protractor as possible means I can merge the curves together the top of the jaws; this will make the fixing much
at the end stronger when it comes to hollowing out the bowl

TURNING Yarn bowl
10 The two arrows indicate the direction in which 11 I am lucky to have this curved stainless steel 12 Time to remove the small, flat area with a shear
the timber needs to be cut. From the small to the toolrest, which allows me to cut down from the rim. cut. The long-grind bowl gouge is used almost upside
large diameter is the best way of cutting a side-grain The bevel of the tool is in contact with the timber’s down with the tool being pulled towards you; the
blank such as this. Here you can see the flat area, surface, which affords me the best control and finish bottom wing of the gouge will take a small, fine cut
which I will leave until the end as a result
13 Instead of power sanding the outside, I’m going to 14 After I’ve remounted the bowl for hollowing, 15 Next, I true up the top edge of the bowl before
use the rotary sanding tool from Hope Woodturning. I roughly mark out the slot which will be cut out hollowing, using a pull cut with the wing of the tool.
As it rotates against the spinning wood, it therefore on the outside of the bowl. To aid with measuring The top will be rounded over when I’ve decided how
generates less sanding marks the wall thickness, I drill a series of holes as the thick I want the bowl to be
timber will be removed later in the process
16 To work with the grain, I work from the big to 17 Carrying out an undercut with the bowl 18 The traditionally sharpened gouge with a short
the small diameter making an ever increasing sized gouge does require some practice but is pretty bevel will fit into the undercut section of the bowl,
hole in the bowl. The initial hollowing is completed straightforward when you understand how a affording me much more control while advancing
using a long-grind bowl gouge, and always with gouge works. The bevel of the tool needs to point through the cut
the bevel in contact with the surface being cut in the direction of cut – in this case to the left

19 The holes give a perfect indication as to how 20 As the bowl is made deeper, it becomes 21 Before going any further, I check the wall thickness
thick the walls of the bowl are to be. If you don’t increasingly difficult to keep the bevel riding on with a pair of figure-of-eight callipers. Ensure to
work this accurately, then the slot will look odd. the surface of the work; this is due to the angle do this regularly. I would normally make it pretty
Using this method certainly saves a lot of measuring of the tool and the fact that the shaft will start even throughout but I’m going to leave a little
during the first part of the hollowing process to hit the edge of the bowl weight in the base for stability
22 The solution to getting the bevel in contact 23 I am often asked about how to get the perfect 24 Once happy with the bowl, I round over the top
with the base of the bowl is to grind a bowl gouge bottom. The mistake I see most is the speed at which using a spindle gouge. Keeping the flute closed
at around 60-65°. I have ground away the heel the tool is advanced to the centre. This is usually too at this point will eliminate any chance of the tool
of the tool as it will cut with less effort quick, which leads to the tool being pushed away grabbing the edge and thus ruining all your hard work
from the cut, thus leaving an unsightly bump
25 I opted to power sand the inside, working from 26 There are many types of burrs and wood cutting 27 I ensure to support my hand on the bowl while
120 to around 400 grit. On open-grained timber like discs available, and they mostly seem to come from holding the mini drill as this stops the cutter running
ash, it’s worth blowing out the grain with compressed the North American carving market. I like these away from you. Here the bowl is left in the chuck,
air between each grit DuraGRIT carbide cutters as they cut cleanly with but you can take it off and hold it down on a cushion
very little burning, even when working end-grain if you prefer

TURNING Yarn bowl
28 The cylinder cutter is just about the right width 29 The bowl needs to have really smooth edges and 30 Now the bowl is pretty much finished all that’s
for the top part of the slot. Small cuts are best there is no substitute for doing it carefully by hand. left to do is to remove the spigot and polish the bowl.
as you encounter less vibration, which will mean Starting with 180 grit, I work the abrasive back and The easiest way to remove the spigot is to friction
less sanding forth so I round over the edges, meaning the yarn drive between centres. Here I’m using my vacuum
will not get caught up or frayed chuck but without the vacuum attached
31 Using a small tool means you’ll only get a small 32 Make sure that the area on the bottom is slightly 33 Another pearl of wisdom passed on to me is that
dig-in if it goes wrong; this was taught to me years concave; this allows the bowl to sit on the outer you need to stop one cut before it falls off. Take off as
ago and it’s still relevant. You don’t want to have diameter and not rock. If you are unsure how much much as you dare as it means you’ll have much less
a big catch at the end of the project wood you have left in the base, you can take it off hand finishing to do later
the lathe and check – you should be able to remount
it easily enough
34 After removing the timber, I sand the base using 35 I thought long and hard about what type of finish I 36 The completed yarn bowl in ash should look
a 50mm sanding pad mounted in a drill press or on wanted to put on the piece as it needed to be durable something like this
the lathe. Work your way through the grits as normal and obviously not mark the yarn in any way. I settled
to leave a perfect finish on a sanding sealer and satin lacquer finish as I find
that ash isn’t generally suited to a high gloss patina

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Buy & sell MARKETPLACE
FOR SALE Scheppach inc 2600,

Ashley Iles carving set – 17 chisels, top quality; 240V, combi planer/
£170. Also, Freud 1,000W router & shop cabinet, thicknesser – comes
with steel top; £150 – buyer collects with the following
01942 716 985 (Cheshire) attachments: table
saw, spindle moulder,
Fine Woodworking magazines – 218 copies – etc. Retiring abroad
issues 17-267 (incomplete), from 1979–2018. forces sale; £350
Sensible offers – collection only 07836 314 075
0121 705 4437 (Birmingham) (Devon)
Nova 3000 lathe – 17 × 12in cut, 8 speed, Case-bound volumes of Woodworker annuals:
swivel head; £250 ONO 1965–1969, 1970–1975, 1980–1986 &1989–
01747 871 402 (Salisbury) 1991; £5 each plus postage
07754 444 002 (Worcs)
Tormek T4 – nearly new, only used three or
four times – genuine reason for sale; £200 Sjöbergs Nordic workbench – comes with
01428 682 802 (surrey) Jet spindle sander; £225; Plano glue press; £120; storage modules & bench dogs – used but
Bessey angle clamp WS6 (new); £35; Triton saw in very good condition; £250 – buyer collects
Woodcut Bowlsaver Max3 with 1in toolpost bench; £50 07745 161 879 (Ayrshire)
stem. New, unused, in box; £300 – collect or 01386 430 043 (N. Cotswolds)
P&P extra
01494 763 152 (Bucks)
WANTED
Large range of Triton equipment including Copies of British Woodworking magazine –
router table (new), router, jigsaw kit, saw issues 1 to 40
bench extension table & biscuit joiner; £400 01635 34238 (Newbury)
07815 103 021 (West Sussex)
Fence plus guide rails for a Wadkin 10in AG5
Veritas bevel-up 22in plane jointer; £150; table saw
Veritas 15in low-angle jack plane; £150; 07724 386 061 (Wrexham)
15 box handle chisels; £150
07904 433 520 (Newark) Stanley No.1 plane & Stanley No.2 plane
Tormek 1204 Super-Grind with extras – in very – one of each wanted by novice collector
Retired boatbuilder selling air-dried Burma teak good condition. Extras include leather honing 01572 723 976 (Rutland)
– call for sizes; buyer to collect wheels, SP650 stone grader & cover; £120
01692 405 389 (Norfolk) 01698 262 531 (Motherwell) Dust extraction spout for DeWalt 1150 planer/
thicknesser
Sedgwick planer/thicknesser 12in single-phase Record Power CL4 variable-speed lathe complete 023 8089 8123 (Southampton)
– in full working order – collection only; £400 with legs & chuck – in very good condition; £500
07931 296 863 (Cornwall) 01428 658 504 (West Sussex) Spiers/Norris/Henley planes wanted by private
collector; any quote beaten. Ring Ron Lowe on
Axminster dust extractor – 240V, single-phase Woodstar DC 04 dust/chip extractor – 01530 834 581 (Leics)
– in good working order; £100 in very good condition having only had hobby
07931 296 863 (Cornwall) use. Supplied with large container & vac bag; Woodworking hand tools, especially old wood
£75. Photo available; collection only and metal planes, wanted by collector. Write to Mr
Startrite tilt arbor table saw – single-phase 07816 371 694 (Newcastle on Tyne) B Jackson, 10 Ayr Close, Stamford PE9 2TS or call
– in great condition; £400 01780 751 768 (Lincs)
07931 296 863 (Cornwall) Panel saw – 4m long three-phase traverse
heavy-duty industrial sawing machine together Woodworking tools: planes by Norris, Spiers,
Wright mortiser – single-phase, in good working with a single bag dust extractor – photos when Mathieson, Preston, Slater, etc. brass braces,
order – spares included; collection only; £350 in situ can be sent to interested parties; £500 interesting rules and spirit levels; top prices paid,
07931 296 863 (Cornwall) 01239 851 744 (Ceredigion) auction prices beaten 01647 432 841 (Devon)
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FEATURE End-grain
DOWNHILL
all the
w
ay
t might be the cider. It might be me. Either
I way I’ve just pedalled a few miles up a

gently inclined, reclaimed railway track (the
Tarka Trail) to a charming hippie café (Yarde
Orchard). They have their own orchard. They make
their own cider. I think I said that. Anyway. One
of the many wonderful things about this bike ride
is that after the cider, it’s all downhill. To the van,
I mean. Where I left it. So I did. And on the way
back, I smiled benignly at other trail users, and
rang my bell when necessary. It can be a shock
having a bike whizz up behind you from nowhere.
Not that I was whizzing anywhere. I didn’t go fast
at all: I was making it last. As you do. A lovely
afternoon. Ahead of me in the distance on a
wooden bench was a man holding his head in
his hands. I slowed down. I’m getting better at
talking to strangers, and no one should sit with
their head in their hands.
I stopped a few feet away. ‘Hello!’ I said (always
a good opening line). He looked up. ‘You look like
one of the benches’, I said. John Butler RWA
– www.johnbutlerwoodcarver.co.uk – has
carved life-sized figures in various groupings and
postures sitting on wooden benches along the
trail. One of them looks forlorn. I asked if he was
OK. He was. I can’t remember what I said next,
but we began to chat. Soon it emerged that, as
I’d suspected, he was sad (not just looking at the
ground). We only talked of general things. He’d
lived here all his life, a country man, once a builder
and a carpenter. He wasn’t much older than me.
‘Do you still do a bit?’ I asked. ‘No. No. It’s all gone.
It’s too fast. They get ‘em up in days. They’re after
the money, that’s all. They don’t care. There’s
nothing I can do about it,’ he went on with a hint ’The Solitary Drinker’ by John Butler RWA
of longing. He cared. I sensed that he had no one,
or nothing left to care for. ‘It’s all changed’. ornament. You can’t care about change unless bridge over the wide meandering river. A gentle
‘What about the countryside?’ I said, looking you see it; and you can’t see it unless you stay breeze. Then, without warning, almost making
around. ‘Has that changed much?’ ‘Birds’ he said. still. Which is what the man was doing, I suppose. me jump, a squadron of superheroes swished
‘Swallows. The nesting places have gone; the old Sitting with his head in his hands. past me, bent into the wind, surfing their own
buildings have gone.’ I agreed. Then I accused him. slipstream, chasing their personal best, and were
It was his fault. And mine, I added fairly swiftly. Onwards & downwards gone. ‘Ring your bell!’ I yelled after them, but only
Builders! I admitted to evicting birds as I restored We had similar views, and although he rose from in my mind – one day it will escape. By the time
stonework and pulled down old sheds. What could his bench and ambled off along the track, he came I might have called aloud, they’d have been too
I do? What was I doing? I was contributing to back several times to resume our duet of despair. far away to hear. Or care. Otherwise they would
the decline. So who am I to complain? What an He said he was pleased to meet me, and I said have, wouldn’t they? They probably didn’t have
irony that a builder wrecks more homes than the same to him. I think we both felt better for any. Bells. Unnecessary weight, they’d say, and
he creates? the encounter. excessive aeronautical drag.
You’ll have seen a kestrel hovering 50ft above On I went. Onwards and downwards. Past I coasted into the station with its very
the verge. The wind buffets it; it auto-corrects young families with toddlers on plastic trikes stationary painted wagons up against the buffers.
its fluttering wings, but keeps its head and eye and kids in crash helmets; odd gaggles of Benches on the platform where no train will ever
immobile. If you go the other way along the Tarka adolescents; dog walkers striding; sprightly arrive. And another café (Puffing Billy). They serve
Trail, you’ll cross a bridge over a weir. Four times old couples, and less sprightly old couples – all cider there too. It’s still a beautiful world.
out of five there’ll be a heron standing by the mankind. I freewheeled past woodland peppered
water, waiting, watching, as lifeless as a garden with flowers. Streams. Across the huge stone © Edward Hopkins 2019

Finest quality precision made tooling
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Nuneaton 6 July
More interested in hand tools? Don’t miss woodworker and
Axminster 17 August
Rycotewood Furniture Centre tutor Matt Estlea demonstrating at
Warrington 14 September
these Axminster stores over the coming months. Matt will cover
North Shields 28 September
sharpening and dovetailing together with plane setup and use, as
Sittingbourne 12 October
well as talking about his experience as an online personality.
Basingstoke 26 October
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Online Review very quiet indeed... Record Power most certainly have a winner.”
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Heavy-duty spindle lock

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Features the latest motor
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16011 Cast Iron Bed Extension £149.99 Save £30.00
16013 Cast Iron Outrigger £39.99 Save £10.00
16012 Bench Feet £59.99 Save £10.00
Shown with optional leg stand.
Specifications
Maximum bowl diameter: 533 mm
members
Maximum between centres: 508 mm by of
d
Maximum swing over bed: 355 mm
e
th
Us
Spindle speeds: 96-3890 rpm

Motor input P1: 1000 W
R e g is
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Rotating headstock Motor output P2: 750 W

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features accurate angle
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Weight: 48 kg Pro na
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Incorporating some of the most famous

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WOODWORK | TURNING | TOOL TESTS | FEATURES

THE ORIGINAL & BEST SINCE 1901

● ROBIN GATES GETS TO GRIPS WITH A PLETHORA OF MEASURING TOOLS

● THE MAKERS’ MAKER: WE TAKE A LOOK AT ALAN PETERS’ LAST PROJECT

Delivered on time - 7 days a week!

Join the THOUSANDS OF TRADESPEOPLE who shop with us every day!

CALL: 7am-8pm 7 days a week

www.getwoodworking.com August 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 3

54 RAISING THE BAR

SEND IN YOUR TOP

4 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking August 2019 www.getwoodworking.com

PROJECTS & TURNING TECHNICAL FEATURES

86 Spinning a yarn 36 The value & cost of furniture making

44 The makers’ maker:

© MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2019 All rights reserved ISSN 2632-3370

www.getwoodworking.com August 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 5

LOW TRADE PRICES!

OVER 10,000 LINES IN STOCK!

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PETER SEFTON DIARY – AUGUST

OPEN DAY 2019 15 Bandsaws

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The Woodworker Timber Suppliers Directory – August 2019

WOOD CONSTRUCTION COMPANY USES PROFESSIONAL

DICKIES WORKWEAR UNVEILS LATEST CATALOGUE

10 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking August 2019 www.getwoodworking.com

The TG 125/E disc sander is

brimarc.com/proxxon or call 03332 406967

CLARKE COMMERCIAL & HEAVY-

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in a 75g tube, with an RRP of £6.49 and can Mouldings

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Typical price: £370

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The all new C3610DRA

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Wood Workers Workshop,

For more on Wood Workers Workshop,

Q: Name one of the machines

Only one entry per person; multiple entries will be discarded.