Pruning ❂ 5

T
o prune or not to prune? This is a question that often
faces gardeners. Most feel they ought to prune, but
are not sure why or how. Pruning should be an ongo-
ing process. Most gardeners annually prune hedges, but
❂ Topics in this chapter
they use pruning haphazardly elsewhere. Most often it is ❂❂ Reasons for pruning
performed on ornamentals only when a shrub or tree begins ❂❂ Tools
to encroach on its neighbors, a walkway or a building.
❂❂ Basic pruning techniques
Pruning is a way to increase flowering of shrubs and
make barren trees fruitful. If carried out correctly, it eventu- ❂❂ Espaliering
ally will. However, years of neglect cannot be corrected in ❂❂ Conifers
one season. Gardeners who don’t know how to prune, but ❂❂ Shade trees
do, often end up with no flowers at all because they either ❂❂ Fruit trees
prune excessively or prune at the wrong time of the year. ❂❂ Shrubs
And keep in mind that pruning will not compensate for lack ❂❂ Rose bushes
of fertilization, poor weed control or drought conditions.
❂❂ Vines and groundcovers
What, then, is pruning? Why, when and how should it be
done? Pruning can be described as the removal of part of a
woody plant for a specific purpose. This chapter explains
the reasons for pruning, the proper techniques and tools to
use and how to prune various types of plants.

Reasons for pruning

The reasons for pruning can be grouped under the follow-
ing four categories:
• To train a plant
Adapted from The Virginia Master Gardener
• To maintain plant health Handbook. Edited by Ray McNeilan, Extension
• To improve the quality of flowers, fruit, foliage or stems Agent Emeritus, Multnomah County, Oregon State
• To restrict growth University.
• To reduce risk of tree or branch failure
Adapted by Robert Wheeler, former Extension
Forestry Specialist, Natural Resources and
Community Development, Cooperative Extension
Service, University of Alaska Fairbanks.
92 • Pruning—Chapter 5

Pruning terminology
Apex—The tip of a shoot.
Apical dominance—The influence of a growing shoot tip on the buds and shoots
below it. The shoot tip produces hormones that move with gravity toward the
earth. This chemical message prevents growth of most lateral buds below the tip
and reduces growth of lower shoots. This effect is inhibited if a branch is grow-
ing horizontally.
Bud—An undeveloped shoot, leaf or flower, or a combination of leaves and flow-
ers, formed on the sides or ends of shoots and in leaf axils (the angle formed
where a leaf joins a shoot).
Collar—A swollen area at the base of a branch where it connects to a trunk. Con-
tains special tissue that prevents decay from moving downward from the branch
into the trunk.
Crotch angle—The angle formed between the trunk and a main scaffold limb. The
best angle is 45° to 60°.
Head—The part of a tree from which the main scaffold limbs originate.
Heading—Cutting off part of a shoot or limb rather than removing it entirely where
it attaches to another branch.
Leader—The uppermost portion of a scaffold limb. The terminal is the tip (apex)
of the leader.
Root sucker—A shoot that arises from the root system.
Scaffold limb—A large limb that forms the framework of a tree.
Shoot—One season’s branch growth. The bud scale scars (ring of small ridges) on
a branch mark the start of a season’s growth.
Spur—A short shoot that bears flower buds and often fruit, either on the end (ter-
minally) or sides (laterally).
Thinning—Removal of an entire Leader
shoot or limb where it origi-
nates.
Water sprout—A long shoot
that grows in an undesirable Scaffold
limb
location on a trunk or a
major limb. Vertical water Water
sprout
sprouts often arise on the
upper side of horizontal Secondary
limbs. scaffold

Crotch
Trunk Root sucker
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 93

Training a plant
Prune recently transplanted trees and
shrubs to remove dead, broken, crossing
and pest-infested branches. Contrary to
common belief, it is not necessary to prune
away one-third of a tree’s top growth to
compensate for root loss, as long as you
use properly pruned nursery-grown plants. (a) (b)
Excessive pruning at transplanting, accord- Figure 1.—Proper vertical spacing (a) and radial
ing to research, reduces plant size and does spacing (b) for scaffold branches.
not aid in survival.
Pruning should, however, begin during a apart vertically (preferably 20 to 24
tree’s first growing season. The main pur- inches). See Figure 1a. Closely spaced
pose of early pruning is to train a tree to de- scaffolds have fewer lateral branches.
velop a strong, well-balanced shape. When The result is long, thin branches with
training a new tree, follow these guidelines: poor structural strength.
• As a rule, do not prune the central • Five to seven scaffolds should fill the
leader (the uppermost portion of a circle of space around the trunk (Fig-
scaffold limb). Pruning the leader is, ure 1b). This arrangement prevents
however, appropriate for some naturally one limb from overshadowing another,
low-branched trees or if you want to de- thus reducing competition for light and
velop a multiple-stemmed plant. Some nutrients.
pruning may be necessary to maintain
desired shape and to shorten overly Maintaining plant health
vigorous shoots. In pruning to maintain plant health, first
• The height of the lowest branch can consider sanitation, which includes elimi-
range from a few inches above the nating dead, dying or diseased wood. Any
ground (for a screen or windbreak) to dying branch or stub can be an entry point
more than 12 feet above the ground or buildup chamber for insects or fungi that
(for a canopy). Lower limbs usually are could spread to other parts of the tree.
removed over a period of years, begin- When removing wood infected with dis-
ning in the nursery and continuing for ease, such as a fungal canker or blight, it is
several years after transplanting, until important to make the cut in healthy wood
the desired height is reached. beyond the infection. Sterilize pruning tools
• For greatest strength, branches selected with alcohol or a mild bleach solution after
for permanent scaffolds (the framework each cut to prevent transfer of disease to
of the tree) must have a wide angle healthy stock.
of attachment with the trunk (crotch Keeping a shrub or tree from growing too
angle). Branches with less than a 30° dense can help prevent disease. Evergreen
angle frequently break, while those with shrubs, in particular, usually benefit from oc-
angles between 60° and 70° rarely do. casional thinning. This thinning allows light
• For shade trees, choose branches for and air to penetrate throughout the shrub,
major scaffolds that are at least 8 inches resulting in even growth of healthy foliage.
94 • Pruning—Chapter 5

Improving flowers, fruit, foliage and been reduced or a poorly branched tree can
crack under its own weight. Trees fail when
stem
the load exceeds the strength of the branch-
The more flowers and fruit a plant pro- es, stems or root systems. Trees weaken by
duces, the smaller they are, as is evident on wounding, disease and insect pests or poor
an unpruned rose bush or fruit tree. Pruning growing conditions. Some defective trees
reduces the amount of wood and diverts can be corrected, so trees should be inspect-
energy into production of larger, though ed for defects. If defects are found, pruning
possibly fewer, flowers and/or fruit. Most can be used as a tool to reduce the risk of
flowering shrubs bloom either on last year’s tree failure.
growth or on new growth. Properly timed
pruning increases the production of flower-
bearing wood. Tools
Some deciduous shrubs have colored Hand shears
bark that is attractive in winter. Because the
Hand pruning shears are good for branch-
best color is produced on young wood, hard
es up to ½ inch in diameter. If you use them
pruning produces not only longer stems, but
to cut larger branches, you risk making a
also more intensely colored ones.
poor cut and/or ruining the shears.
Other plants are grown for their foliage.
There are two styles of hand shears: scis-
Proper pruning can increase the quality and
sor-action types and anvil-cut types (Figure
quantity of foliage produced.
2a). Scissor-action shears have a thin, sharp
Restricting growth blade that slides closely past a thicker, but
also sharp, blade. This type usually costs
Over time, trees and shrubs often grow more but makes cleaner, closer cuts. Anvil-
too big for their space, and regular pruning cut shears have a sharpened blade that cuts
is necessary to keep them in bounds. Formal against a broad, flat blade.
hedges are pruned to maintain a uniform
growth rate. To reduce labor, select plants Lopping shears
that will not exceed their allotted space.
Lopping shears have long handles and
Reducing risk of tree or branch failure are operated with both hands (Figure 2b).
Even the cheapest can cut ½-inch diameter
Trees with defects can fail and become material. The better ones can slice through
hazardous. There are many ways for trees branches 2 inches or more thick, depending
to fail. An ice storm can overload branches, on species and condition.
a wind can blow down a tree if roots have
Pole pruners
Scissor-action Lopping shears
Pole pruners have a hooked
blade above and a cutting blade
beneath (Figure 3). The blades
are on a pole and are operated by
Anvil-cut pulling a long piece of cord down-
(a) (b) ward.
Figure 2.—Pruning shears (a) and lopping shears (b).
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 95

screw or a wing nut that secures the saw

blade open or closed. However, a fixed-
blade saw with a leather scabbard is safer.
Saw blades can be either straight or
curved. Many people prefer a curved blade
that cuts on the draw stroke. A double-
Figure 3.—Pole pruner. edged saw has fine teeth on one side, coarse
on the other. These saws are difficult to use
The poles can be in sections, which either in densely branched plants.
fit together or telescope. They can be made Bow saws are good only where no ob-
of several materials. Wooden poles are struction exists for 12 inches or more above
heavy. Aluminum poles are light but can the area to be cut.
conduct electricity if they touch an over- Chain saws come in a variety of sizes,
head wire. Poles made of fiberglass or a both gasoline and electric. However, in gen-
plastic compound probably are best. Poles eral, chainsaws are not appropriate for prun-
can be fitted with saws, but these usually ing live plant material. They are better suited
are frustrating to use. to removing trees and cutting firewood.
Pole pruners can be dangerous, as mate-
rial that is cut overhead can fall on the op- Caring for tools
erator, unless it hangs up in other branches.
Clean and oil tools regularly by wiping
Use caution and wear head and eye protec-
an oily cloth on blades and other surfaces.
tion when using these tools.
Keep cutting edges sharp. Several passes
with a good oilstone usually suffice. Paint
Hedge shears
or varnish wooden handles, or regularly
Manual hedge shears have long, flat treat them with linseed oil.
blades and relatively short handles, one for Use tools properly. Don’t twist or strain
each hand (Figure 4). Heavy-duty shears pruners or loppers. Keep the branch to be
with one serrated blade are good for diffi- cut as deeply in the jaws and near the pivot
cult jobs. as possible. Don’t cut wires with pruning
Power hedge shears also are available. tools.
For home use, electric models are most
common.
Manual Electric
Saws
There are many makes and models of
hand pruning saws (Figure 5). Fineness of
the cutting edge is measured in points (teeth Figure 4.—Hedge shears.
per inch). Average saws are about 5½ to 6
points. An 8-point saw is for delicate, close
work on small shrubs and trees, while a
4½-point saw is for fairly heavy limbs. Pruning saw
If a saw suddenly folds while in use, it
Bow saw
can injure the operator’s fingers. Folding
saws have either a slotted-head holding Figure 5.—Saws.
96 • Pruning—Chapter 5

Thinning removes undesired wood (Fig-

Basic pruning techniques ure 6b). In thinning, a branch or twig is cut
Types of pruning cuts off at one of the following places:
To simplify pruning, remember that there • Its point of origin from the parent stem
are only two types of cuts: heading cuts and • A lateral side branch
thinning cuts. Figure 6 shows the effect of • The “Y” of a branch junction
each. • Ground level
Heading involves cutting off part of a Thinning results in a more open plant and
shoot or limb (Figure 6a). It increases the does not stimulate excessive new growth.
number of new shoots and stiffens branch- By thinning, you can remove considerable
es, holding them in position. growth without changing the plant’s natural
appearance or growth habit. Thus, you can
maintain plants at a given height and width
(a) Heading for years, while allowing room for side
branches to grow.

Twigs and small branches

When pruning twigs and small branches,
always cut back to a vigorous bud or an
intersecting branch.
When cutting back to a bud, choose a bud
that is pointing in the direction new growth
is desired. Be sure not to leave a stub over
the bud or cut too close to the bud.
When cutting back to an intersecting
(lateral) branch, choose a branch that forms
(b) Thinning
an angle of no more than 45° with the one
to be removed and has a diameter of at least
one-half that of the branch to be removed
(Figure 7).
Make slanting cuts when removing limbs
that grow upward; this technique prevents
water from collecting in the cut and expe-
dites healing.

Thick, heavy branches

Remove thick, heavy branches flush with
the collar at the base of the branch, not
flush with the trunk (Figure 8). The collar
contains chemically protected tissue. When
a dead branch decays naturally, the decay
Figure 6.—Heading cuts (a) increase the number of new advances downward until it meets this in-
shoots formed and siffen the branches, holding them in ternal protected zone. When it reaches this
position. Thinning cuts (b) reduce the number of shoots and
direct growth.
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 97

(b) (b) Angle good

45° but branch too
small
(c)

(a) (c) Angle good and

(a) Branch size
side branch diameter
good but angle
is one-half that of
too great
part removed

Figure 7.—Proper branch selection: (a) Angle is too great. (b) Branch is too small. (c) Angle is good and
branch is large enough.

area of very strong wood, the branch falls a tree’s injury. Painting merely hides the
away. The remaining small zone of decayed wound and makes the person doing the
wood is walled off within the collar. pruning feel that he or she has done some-
If a branch’s collar is removed, the pro- thing to “help” the tree. In fact, paints or
tective zone is lost, causing a serious trunk wound dressings may trap moisture and
wound that wood-decay fungi can easily increase disease problems.
infect. Removing the collar causes injury The proper method for cutting branches
regardless of whether the pruned branch is larger than 1½ inches in diameter is shown
living or dead. in Figure 9:
For more than 50 years, the recommend- 1. Undercut the bottom of the branch about
ed method of pruning was to cut flush with one-third of the way through, 6 to 12
the trunk and paint. These recommenda- inches out from the trunk (Figure 9a). If
tions have no basis in scientific fact. The there is danger of the branch damaging
flush cut, by damaging the collar, increases lower limbs or objects on the ground,
rope it and support it.
2. Make a second cut from the top, about
Branch collar 3 inches farther out from the undercut,
until the branch falls away (Figure 9b).
If you roped the branch for support,
(b)
carefully lower it to the ground after the
(a) second cut.
(c) 3. Cut back the resulting stub to the branch
Correct collar (Figure 9c).

Incorrect Roots
Figure 8.—Remove Figure 9.—Pruning a large After several years, a tree may develop
branches flush with branch: (a) Undercut one- long roots running 15 to 25 feet or more
the collar, not flush third of the way through away from the trunk. These roots, along
with the trunk. the branch. (b) Cut through
until the branch falls away.
with many branched side roots, physically
(c) Cut back to the collar. support the tree. Most of the small feeding
98 • Pruning—Chapter 5

roots that gather nourishment branch off the should be pruned, if possible, to reduce
main roots far from the trunk. risk of stem fungal infections. Trees such
If a tree is balled and moved, most of its as chokecherry are highly susceptible to
feeding roots are cut off, so the tree may die stem fungal infections such as black knot
when transplanted. For this reason, nursery and may need to have entire major branches
growers root-prune plants to force them removed once they become infected or to
to grow new feeding roots near the trunk. prevent further damage.
These new roots are included in the balling
operation and ensure growth after trans-
planting. Espaliering
To safely move a small tree or shrub, root- Many gardeners prune for decorative
prune it a year or so before digging it. In purposes. The extreme winter temperatures
fall, sever half of the roots to 1 foot deep by in most of Alaska can limit the species of
See Chapter 11, forcing a sharp spade into the soil around the plants available for espaliering, but it is still
Woody Landscape
Plants. plant, leaving a shovel width of untouched possible. Numerous training systems are
soil between cuts. Make the circle of cuts based on the art of espalier, which origi-
slightly smaller than the size of the ball nated in France and Italy about 400 years
you’ll eventually dig. The next spring, sever ago. Some are quite elaborate and require
the other half of the roots. Move the tree that considerable time and patience, as well as
fall. Another way to accomplish the same detailed knowledge of the plant’s growth
thing is to cut all of the roots on one side in characteristics. Others are relatively simple.
the spring, cut the other side the following The easiest espalier system is a horizontal
spring and move the plant that fall. cordon (Figure 10). Apples, pears, plums and
Recent research indicates that most new some shrubs, such as silverberry (Elaeagnus
roots grow from the ends of pruned roots. commutata), adapt well to this system. The
Therefore, you must dig a root ball 4 to 6 plant usually is supported by a wall, fence
inches larger than the root-pruned area to or wire trellis. Training to a 4-tier cordon or
get the newly developed roots. 4-wire trellis is relatively easy.
Root pruning also is used to force a vig- You can construct a simple 4-wire trellis
orously growing fruit tree into bloom. Cut- using 8-foot posts. Space the posts 12 feet
ting the roots in a circle early in the spring, apart and set them 2 feet in the ground. Run
as explained above, sometimes forces a tree, wires through the posts at heights of 18,
shrub or vine to bloom the following year. 36, 54 and 72 inches. Plant two unbranched
whips of the desired plant 6 feet apart be-
Damaged trees tween the two posts.
In order to improve the overall health of a Before growth begins in the first spring,
tree and its remaining branches, it is neces- cut off each whip just above the highest
sary to carefully examine trees browsed by bud below the lowest wire. Three or more
animals and prune according to existing shoots should develop near the cut. Retain
damage so that you will promote growth the uppermost shoot and develop it as the
from healthy portions of the remaining central leader. Train the other two as main
stems. Prune back branches so that subse- scaffold branches along the lower wire, one
quent growth develops from healthy branch on each side of the central stem. Remove all
wood. Open wounds on the bark and stem other growth.
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 99

Tie the two scaffold shoots loosely to About August 1 or as soon as new growth
the wire as soon as they are 10 to 12 inches reaches 10 to 12 inches in length, cut it back
long. Use twine, plastic chain link ties or to two or three buds. Repeat about a month
other suitable material. Tie the shoots so later, if necessary. This pruning encourages
they are nearly horizontal. This arrangement flower bud formation and prevents vigorous
reduces vegetative vigor and induces flower growth from getting out of bounds.
bud formation. If you tie the end of the
shoot below horizontal, however, growth at
the end will stop and vigorous shoots will Conifers
develop along the upper side. Conifers have both lateral and termi-
By the end of the first season, the lateral nal buds and can be effectively pruned,
branches should be established on the lower especially at a younger age, to improve
wire, and the central leader should have tree shape and remove damaged branches.
grown above the second wire. At the end of Conifers such as spruce are prone to heavy
the first winter, while the plant is dormant, cut sap flow from wounds caused by pruning.
the central leader back to a bud just below the Watering and fertilizing helps trees stressed
second wire. Choose two scaffold branches by pruning heal and resist attacks by insects
to tie to the second wire and allow the central and diseases.
leader to grow above the third wire. Pruning spruce trees is beneficial for
Repeat this process during the next two several reasons. Research has shown that
seasons, after which time a total of eight removing the lower branches results in
scaffolds, four on each side of the trunk, fewer spruce bark beetle attacks. For trees
should be firmly established. Bend the lead- with full-length crowns, it is recommended
er to form one of the top scaffolds, rather that no more than one-third of the length
than cutting it off at the top wire. By the of the canopy be pruned. Pruning spruce is
end of the fourth season, fruit trees should best done in the fall or early winter. If done
be producing heavily. at any other time, it may attrack spruce bark
In following years, do all pruning dur- beetles.
ing spring and summer. When new spring
growth is about 2 inches long, cut it off.
Remove about one-fourth of the previous
season’s growth. Do not prune the scaffolds’
terminals.

First winter Second winter

Figure 10.—Training a tree with an espalier system.

 100 • Pruning—Chapter 5

tive that training begin early. Waiting 3 or 4

Shade trees years after planting results in a poorly devel-
Young shade trees may not need much oped, weak tree. Correcting such a problem,
pruning to develop a good framework. usually with heavy pruning, only further
Mature trees generally are pruned only for delays and decreases fruit production.
sanitation, safety or size restriction. An integral part of tree training is limb
You can prune shade trees at any time spreading. There are two reasons for limb
of the year. Late-winter pruning often is spreading:
preferred because it is easy to shape a tree • To develop limb orientation at 60° from
when foliage is gone. Also, fewer precau- vertical, thus balancing vegetative and
tions are necessary to avoid garden and fruiting growth
flower bed damage, and cleanup is easier. • To develop strong, wide crotch angles
A few trees, such as maples, birches and (greater than 35°)
flowering dogwoods, bleed profusely when Limb orientation affects vigor in vari-
pruned in late winter. The bleeding is un- ous ways, as shown in Figure 11. Upright
sightly but not harmful. or vertical limbs (Figure 11a) produce their
Summer pruning may be more effective longest shoots near their tip and tend to
in directing plant growth. It also may cause exhibit high vegetative vigor. Often, fruits
fewer suckers or water sprouts to grow. hang down against these limbs and rub
against them. Horizontally oriented limbs
(Figure 11b), on the other hand, develop
Fruit trees vigorous water sprouts along their upper
The basic objectives in directing and surface at the expense of potential fruiting
guiding the growth of young fruit trees are spurs. The ideal limb orientation is about
to encourage early fruit production and to 60° from vertical. These limbs (Figure 11c)
See Chapter 12, develop an optimum tree structure for sup-
Home Orchards. have less vigorous shoots near the tip, more
porting future crops. You can meet these uniform branching and more fruiting spurs.
objectives by maintaining a proper balance Fruits hang down from the limb and are less
between vegetative and potential fruiting prone to rub.
wood. Pruning of mature trees is aimed at Another reason for limb spreading is to
producing new growth of fruiting wood. develop strong crotch angles (Figure 12a).
This section discusses pruning of various Wide crotch angles are strong. Many culti-
types of fruit and nut trees. vars naturally develop narrow crotch an-
gles. If these crotch angles are not widened
Nonbearing apple trees to greater than 35°, a condition called bark
Avoid excessive pruning of young, non- inclusion can develop (Figure 12b). In this
bearing trees because it stimulates excessive condition, bark is trapped between the trunk
shoot growth and delays fruiting. Instead, and limb, and layers of annual wood are
prune to train young trees by redirecting prevented from growing together. Splitting
limbs, stimulating branching where desired may occur at these narrow crotch angles.
and removing growth that is in an undesir-
able location.
Pruning of a mature apple tree is greatly
affected by early training. Thus, it is impera-
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 101

At planting
Training begins at planting. Early pruning
forces the growth of lateral branches from
which you’ll select future scaffolds.
(c)
When planting, cut back spur-type and (a)
semi-dwarf apple trees to a height of 30 to
35 inches. Cut back standard trees to 40 (b)

inches. If the tree is branched, head it back

to a strong bud to stimulate growth of the
central leader. Head back and retain desir- Figure 11.—Possible limb orientations: (a) Vertical,
ably located branches for scaffolds. Remove (b) horizontal, (c) 60° from vertical. The 60°
undesirable side branches. orientation is ideal.

First growing season

Bark inclusion
Scaffold selection can begin in summer,
especially on cultivars that develop narrow
crotch angles. Generally, in the first year
you can select two to four good scaffolds
(Figure 13). They should be evenly distrib-
uted and not directly above one another.
Vertical spacing between scaffolds can vary (a) (b)
from 3 to 12 inches, depending on the ulti-
mate size of the tree. Remove shoots devel-
oping below the lowest desired scaffold (18 Figure 12.—Strong, wide crotch anlge (a) and
to 24 inches above ground). narrow crotch angle with bark inclusion (b).
Spread or remove limbs with crotch
angles less than 35°. In early summer, while
shoots are soft, it’s easy to spread limbs.
Place a clothespin or short piece of wood
with a notch in one end between the trunk
and the shoot. Use the notch to push the
shoot outward. Weight down the shoot with
a light weight such as a fishing weight.
3–12 in.
Remove undesirably located shoots at this
time.
First dormant season 18–24 in.
If you haven’t yet selected shoots to re-
tain as scaffolds, do so now. Spread selected
scaffolds before doing any pruning since (a) Vertical scaffold (b) Horizontal scaffold
placement (side view) placement (top view)
spreading changes the shape of the tree and
may influence pruning decisions. Next, Figure 13.—Selecting well-spaced scaffolds.
remove shoots that you didn’t select as Scaffolds should be spaced 3–12 inches apart
scaffolds. Head the central leader to main- vertically (a) and as equally as possible around the
trunk (b).
102 • Pruning—Chapter 5

tain dominance and induce branching; cut

it back 3 to 5 inches above the point where
you want the next tier of scaffolds. Cut
Scaffolds usually do not need to be
headed; generally shoots branch naturally
in their second season (Figure 14). All you
Figure 15.—Shorten limbs with thinning cuts.
need to do is spread the scaffolds to encour-
age uniform branching. Often, however, a
scaffold exhibits excess vigor and upsets the
balance of a tree’s growth. In this case, head
it to shorten and stiffen it. You also can
use heading cuts to encourage growth and
branching on spur-type trees.
Cut
Second growing season
Limbs not previously trained can be
Next year’s
spread easily early in the growing season cut
when wood is flexible. Remove fruit de-
veloping on the central leader to maintain Figure 16.—Prune to a lateral to maintain height.
vigor in the center of the tree. Select and
train the new tier of scaffold limbs. Choose central leader to maintain vigor and stimu-
limbs that are well spaced in relation to late branching.
lower scaffolds.
Succeeding years
Second dormant season Continue training and pruning following
Again, spread scaffolds before pruning. the principles of central leader dominance
Some of the first-year scaffolds may have and proper scaffold selection and training.
turned upward and resumed vertical growth. Keep scaffolds at a 60° angle from vertical.
Use longer spreaders to spread them back Maintain a conical tree shape, with upper
to the desired orientation. Move the smaller branches shorter than lower ones. Always
spreaders farther up into the tree. Head the prune the top portion of the tree more heav-
ily than the lower. After the third year, you
can shorten upper scaffolds with thinning
cuts (Figure 15), which remove an entire
shoot or branch at its junction with a lateral
First year scaffold or trunk. Thinning cuts are less
invigorating than heading cuts. They also
improve light penetration and can redirect a
limb’s growth.
Remove crossing branches, vigorous wa-
ter sprouts, shoots growing up into the tree
Second year and shaded hanging branches.
Once the tree is as tall as you want, cut
it back each year to a weak lateral on the
Figure 14.—Natural branching of a shoot. central leader (Figure 16). This practice
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 103

maintains vigor in the center top of the tree

while maintaining desired tree height.

Bearing apple trees

Mature apple trees often need to be
pruned vigorously to encourage new growth
of fruiting wood. To bear fruit, spurs must Semidwarf Semistandard Standard
12 feet tall 16 feet tall 20 feet tall
be at least 2 years old. After several years of 3 percent shaded 19 percent shaded 24 percent shaded
production, however, they lose vigor.
Good fruiting wood requires moderate Figure 18.—The shaded area increases as tree size
vigor and exposure to good light. Fruiting increases.
may be poor if vigor is too high or too low.
Excessive vigor can be the result of inad-
equate fertilization, no pruning, excessive
cropping or shading of fruiting wood.
Light is the energy source that produces a
fruit crop. Good light exposure is necessary
for development of flower buds as well as
fruit of optimum size, color and sugar content. Figure 19.—Tree shape influences shaded areas.
Bearing wood that is shaded is low in vigor
and produces small, poorly colored fruits.
A typical tree canopy is composed of dif- • The inner zone (c), which receives inad-
ferent layers or zones with respect to light equate light and is unproductive
exposure (Figure 17):
The relative proportion of these zones is in-
• The outside zone of leaves and fruit
fluenced by tree size and shape. As tree size
(a), which receives a high proportion
increases, the percentage of the tree that is
of direct light. This zone receives more
shaded and unproductive increases (Figure
light than needed for good growth and
18). Trees with wide tops and narrow bot-
fruiting.
• The middle zone (b), which receives toms also have a high percentage of shaded
adequate light area (Figure 19).
Use thinning cuts to maintain good light
exposure in the tree canopy. Make moder-
(a) More than adequate light ate cuts throughout the tree to distribute
vigor and provide good light penetration.
Use heading cuts only where branching is
(b) Adequate light
desired or vigor is low.
Another problem with overly dense trees
(c) Inadequate light is that spray penetration is reduced.
When pruning mature trees, also remove
the following:
• Drooping or low-hanging branches (or
prune them to a lateral that is positioned
Figure 17.—Light distribution zones in a large apple above horizontal, Figure 20)
tree.
104 • Pruning—Chapter 5

• Crossed, dead, diseased or damaged ing on soil type, tree variety and your
limbs experience.
• Water sprouts, unless some are needed • The excess vigor that can result from
to develop new fruiting wood severe pruning can decrease fruit qual-
Keep the following precautions in mind ity. The effect is much the same as from
when pruning bearing trees: excessive nitrogen application. It may
• Avoid pruning terminal shoots back include excessively large, poorly col-
to horizontal branches (often called a ored, soft apples that do not store well.
bench cut, Figure 21). Such cuts result Vegetative growth competes with fruit
in weak limbs and an umbrella shape for calcium; thus, under conditions of
that encourages water sprouts. excessive vigor, cork spot or bitter pit
• Remove no more than one or two large may develop due to calcium deficiency
limbs per year. If a lot of pruning is in the fruit.
required, spread the process over a 2- or • Use heading cuts only to maintain tree
3-year period. In the 1 or 2 years be- size when trees are at or near the desired
fore and after heavy pruning, reduce or size. Such pruning often is used in an at-
eliminate nitrogen application, depend- tempt to reduce tree size, but misuse of
this technique can disrupt vigor and re-
duce yield so much that it takes several
years for the tree to recover. Heading,
especially of 1-year-old shoots, induces
masses of shoots to grow close to the
cuts. These abundant shoots can shade
and weaken inner areas of the tree.
• Invigoration from pruning is, in part,
a nitrogen response. Pruning alters the
balance between the treetop and root
system. Removing part of the treetop in-
creases the amount of nitrogen available
for the remaining growing points. Thus,
always combine a pruning program with
Figure 20.—Thin out low-hanging branches. a good fertilization program.

(a) Bench cuts Pear trees

Train pears to have multiple leaders with
three to five main scaffold branches. Avoid
excessive pruning of young trees, except to
stimulate scaffold development.
(b) Proper cuts When trees are mature, use thinning cuts
to improve light penetration. Do the heavi-
est pruning in the treetop. Remove upper
horizontal branches so they won’t shade the
rest of the tree or produce excessive water
Figure 21.—Bench cuts (a) and proper cuts (b). sprouts.
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 105

Do not head back trees after their frame- Cherry trees

work has been developed. Doing so encour-
ages the tree to sprout soft terminal shoots, Sweet
which are highly susceptible to fire blight. Train sweet cherry trees to the modified
leader system recommended for apple trees.
Plum trees Give special attention to selecting scaffold
limbs with wide crotch angles. Sweet cherry
Training young trees in a vase shape
trees are subject to winter injury, often split-
At planting, head plum trees at 18 to 24
ting where limbs join the main stem. Thus,
inches. The following year, select three
it is essential to develop crotch angles as
or four main shoots to be scaffold limbs.
wide as possible to ensure a strong frame-
If the scaffold crotch angles are narrow,
work.
spread them to 45° to 60° using clothespins
When planting a cherry tree, head the tree
or wooden sticks with notches in the ends.
about 18 to 24 inches above the ground.
Remove the rest of the shoots with thin-
Head all shoots to 24 to 36 inches after the
ning cuts. Then head the selected scaffolds
first and second years’ growth. Remove the
at 2 to 2½ feet from the crotch to stimulate
terminal buds of short shoots in order to
branching into secondary scaffolds.
promote branching (Figure 22). In the third
In the third dormant season, thin third-
and fourth years, head the most vigorous
year scaffolds to one or two per secondary
shoots.
scaffold. In Japanese plums, thin interior
When the tree begins to bear fruit, re-
shoots to spread the tree.
move all but seven or eight scaffold branch-
Pruning bearing trees es. Head all shoots in the dormant season to
Prune European plum and prune trees to develop a low, spreading tree that is easy to
lighten the ends of heavily bearing branches manage.
in order to prevent breakage. Cut back an- Established trees require minimal prun-
nual shoot growth, being careful not to cut ing. Lightly thin out new shoots and cut out
away long-lived fruiting spurs. These trees weak wood and interfering branches.
bear on 1-year-old shoots, as well as on
older ones.
Fruiting limbs tend to arch under the fruit
load. Water sprouts arise from the upper
side of these limbs. To renew fruiting wood,
cut back to the arch and thin water sprouts.
Those remaining will become fruiting
wood.
On Japanese plum trees, thin 1-year-old
shoots. Leave enough to renew fruiting
wood. Thin out a few branches with old,
weak spurs.
(a) Untrained (a) Properly trained
Figure 22.—Training a cherry tree: (a) Without proper
training, this sweet cherry tree is too tall and sparsely
branched. (b) Heading all shoots of a young sweet cherry tree
produces more branches and a lower tree.
106 • Pruning—Chapter 5

Sour Deciduous shrubs

If a sour cherry tree has no strong branch- When deciduous shrubs are planted
es at the time of planting, head it to about bare-root, some pruning may be necessary.
24 inches above the ground. Select laterals Lightly prune roots if any are broken, dam-
when growth begins the second year. aged or dead. Prune branches by thinning
If the tree has some good laterals when (not shearing) to reduce overall plant size
planted, remove those lower than 16 inches by one-half or more.
from the ground. Select about three perma- Balled and burlapped (B&B) or container
nent scaffold limbs along the leader, 4 to 6 shrubs require little if any pruning. Occa-
inches apart and not directly above one an- sionally, branches are damaged in transit;
other. Do not head them back, since doing remove them at the time of planting. Prune
so tends to stunt terminal growth. only to develop desired size and shape.
In following years, select side branches Pruning for most mature deciduous
until there are five or six scaffold limbs well shrubs consists of thinning, gradual renewal
distributed along 3 to 4 feet of the main and rejuvenation:
stem above the lowest branch. Then modify • Thinning cuts are used to maintain a
the leader by cutting to an outward-growing shrub’s desired height and width (Figure
lateral. 23). Thin out the oldest and tallest stems
After fruiting begins, pruning consists first. Use hand pruning shears, loppers
mainly of annually thinning out excessive or a saw, rather than hedge shears.
and crowded growth to allow sunlight into • Gradual-renewal pruning involves annu-
the tree. Renew fruiting wood. Sour cher- ally cutting a few of the oldest and tallest
ries bear mostly on 2- to 5-year-old spurs. branches back to slightly above ground
level (Figure 24). Some thinning may
Shrubs be necessary to shorten long branches or
maintain a symmetrical shape.
Prune both evergreen and deciduous foli-
• To rejuvenate an old, overgrown shrub,
age shrubs in late winter before new growth
remove one-third of the oldest, tallest
starts. Minor corrective pruning can be done
branches at or slightly above ground
at any time. Specific pruning situations are
level before new growth starts.
discussed below.

Before thinning After thinning Before pruning After pruning

Figure 23—Thinning a shrub. Figure 24.—Gradual renewal of a shrub. (Dark branches
in illustration on the left are removed.)
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 107

Table 1.—Shrubs that bloom on last season’s growth. Table 2.—Shrubs that bloom on current season’s
Botanical name Common name growth.
Daphne spp. Daphne Botanical name Common name
Forsythia spp. Forsythia Hydrangea arborescens Hills of snow
Lonicera spp. Honeysuckle Hydrangea paniculata PeeGee hydrangea
Philadelphus spp. Mockorange Rosa spp. Bush rose
Rhododendron spp. Azalea and rhododendron Spiraea bumalda Anthony Waterer spirea
Rosa spp. Rambling rose Spiraea japonica Mikado spirea
Spiraea spp. Early white spirea Symphoricarpos Coralberry and snowberry
Syringa spp. Lilac
Viburnum spp. Viburnum
Weigela florida Old-fashioned weigela

Time pruning of flowering shrubs to mini- Establishment of a deciduous hedge

mize disruption of blooming. Spring-flow- begins with the selection of nursery stock.
ering shrubs bloom on last season’s growth Choose young trees or shrubs 1 to 2 feet
(Table 1). Prune them soon after they high, preferably multiple-stemmed. Cut the
bloom so there is time for vigorous summer plants back to 6 to 8 inches to induce low
growth, which provides flower buds for the branching. Late in the first season or before
following year. Some shrubs that bloom af- bud break in the second, prune off half of
ter June do so from buds that are formed on the new growth. The following year, again
that spring’s shoots (Table 2). Prune these trim off half.
shrubs in late winter to promote vigorous In the third year, start shaping. Trim to
spring shoot growth. the desired shape before the hedge grows to
the desired size. Once it reaches its mature
Evergreen shrubs size, it will be too late to get maximum
Most evergreen trees and shrubs are sold branching at the base. Do not let lower
B&B or in a container. Unlike deciduous branches be shaded out; trim so the base of
shrubs, they require little pruning at plant- the hedge is wider than the top (Figure 25).
ing time. After the hedge reaches the desired dimen-
A thinning-out type of pruning is the best sions, trim frequently in order to maintain
way to prune most mature evergreen shrubs. its size.
Some evergreens can be sheared to achieve Evergreen nursery stock for hedging need
a stiff, formal appearance. However, you’ll not be as small as deciduous material and
still need to thin them occasionally. should not be cut back when planted. Trim
lightly after a year or two. Start shaping as
Hedges the individual plants merge into a continu-
Hedges are plants set in a row so they ous hedge. Do not trim too closely because
merge into a solid linear mass. They have many needle-bearing evergreens do not eas-
been used for centuries as screens, fences, ily generate new growth from old wood.
walls and edgings. A well-shaped hedge Hedges often are shaped with flat tops
is no accident. It must be trained from the and vertical sides (Figure 26a and b). This
beginning. unnatural shaping seldom is successful. The
108 • Pruning—Chapter 5

need shearing only once annually. Shear

(a) Good (b) Poor
shape; base
faster growing evergreens before new growth
shape; weak
gets sun and growth at exceeds a foot in length. Fast-growing shrubs
rain base may need to be sheared every 4 to 6 weeks
during spring and early summer.
What can be done with a large, over-
grown, bare-bottomed and misshapen
hedge? If it is deciduous, the answer is fair-
Figure 25.—Correct (a) and incorrect (b) hedge pruning. ly simple. In spring, before leaves appear,
prune to 1 foot below the desired height.
Then trim carefully for the next few years
best shape, as far as the plant is concerned,
to give it the shape and fullness desired. Oc-
is a natural form — a rounded or slightly
casionally, hedge plants in very poor shape
pointed top with sides slanting to a wide
do not recover from this treatment and must
base (Figure 26c and d). This shape aids in
be replaced.
shedding snow, which otherwise can break
Rejuvenating evergreen hedges is more
branches. Also, by trimming the top nar-
difficult. As a rule, evergreens cannot stand
rower than the bottom, sunlight can reach
severe pruning. Arborvitae is an exceptions.
all of the leaves.
Other evergreen hedges may have to be
Before shaping a hedge, think about the
replaced.
plants’ natural shape. For example, dwarf
mugo pine, a spreading plant, is easily Tools for pruning hedges
shaped to a Roman arch (Figure 26c). Natu- Traditional scissor-action hedge shears
rally conical arborvitae does particularly are the best all-around tool for trimming
well in a Gothic arch shape (Figure 26d). hedges. They cut much better and closer
Two questions often arise: “How often than electric trimmers, which often break
should this hedge be trimmed?” and “When and tear twigs. Hand shears work on any
should I trim?” Answers depend on the kind type of hedge, while electric trimmers do
of shrub, the growing season and the degree poorly on large-leafed and wiry-twigged
of neatness you desire. varieties and sometimes jam on thick twigs.
In general, trim before new growth begins Hand shears also are quieter and less likely
to shade lower leaves. Trim slow-growing to gouge the hedge or injure the operator.
plants when new growth is more than 3 or 4 Hand pruners are useful for removing a
inches long. Siberian pea, for example, may few stray branches and are essential if you

Roman arch Gothic arch

(a) Snow (b) Straight lines (c) Peaked and (d) Rounded forms,
accumulates on require more frequent rounded top which follow nature’s
broad, flat top trimming hinders snow tendency, require less
accumulation trimming
Figure 26.—Improper (a and b) and proper (c and d) hedge shapes.
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 109

want an informal look. Use loppers and/or

a pruning saw to remove large individual
branches. Chain saws are not recommended
for use on hedges.

Rose bushes
All rose bushes need some type of prun-
ing. If they are not pruned for several
years, they deteriorate in appearance, often (a) Correct (b) Incorrect
develop more than the usual disease and
Figure 27. Proper pruning angle (a) and improper
insect problems, and produce smaller and
angles (b).
smaller flowers. Proper pruning encourages
new growth from the base, making the plant
healthy and attractive and resulting in large pends on the cultivar. The average pruning
blossoms. Tender roses will not overwinter height for Floribundas and Hybrid Teas is
outdoors in many areas of Alaska and must between 12 and 18 inches, but taller grow-
be put in a cold storage location (see Roses: ing Hybrids and most Grandifloras may be
Growing and Overwintering Tender Variet- left at 2 feet.
ies, HGA 00138). Make cuts at a 45° angle above a strong
Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora and Floribunda outer bud (Figure 27). Aim the cut upward
roses require annual pruning in the spring, from the inner side of the bush to push
after winter protection is removed or plants growth outward and promote healthy shoots
are taken out of cold storage. As a guide- and quality flowers.
line, prune roses in early spring. If you Some types of roses have special pruning
prune too early, frost injury may make a considerations as discussed below.
second pruning necessary.
For small pruning jobs, the only tools Standard or tree roses
necessary are sharp hand-pruning shears A tree rose is a Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora
and gloves. If canes are large, loppers and or Floribunda budded at the top of a tall
a small saw with pointed blade are helpful. trunk. Prune tree roses like Hybrid Teas,
Use loppers to reach in and cut out large cutting the branches to within 6 to 10 inches
dead canes. of the base of the budded top in order to
Remove all dead and diseased wood by encourage rounded, compact, vigorous new
cutting at least 1 inch below the damaged growth.
area. Remove all weak shoots and those
growing toward the center. If two branches Miniature roses
rub or are close enough that they will do so
Miniatures are 6 to 12 inches high, with
soon, remove one. On old, heavy bushes,
tiny blooms and foliage. They do not need
cut out one or two of the oldest canes each
special pruning. Cut out dead, diseased and
year.
weak growth and remove the hips.
Cut back the remaining healthy canes.
The height to which a rose should be cut de-
110 • Pruning—Chapter 5

Ramblers the ground in the fall. Just trim 3 to 5 inches

off the end of each branch. This will make it
Old-fashioned Rambler roses have bloom stronger the next year. If you decide
clusters of flowers, each usually less than the plant has grown out of control, you can
2 inches across. They often produce pli- cut the plant down to the ground in the fall.
able canes 10 to 15 feet long in one season.
Ramblers produce best on 1-year-old wood,
so this year’s choice blooms come on last Vines and groundcovers
year’s growth. Prune immediately after Pruning procedures for ornamental vines
flowering. Remove some of the large old are similar to those for ornamental shrubs.
canes. Tie new canes to a support for the Be sure to prune flowering vines at the right
next year. time. Prune those that flower on new wood
before growth begins in spring. Prune those
Large-flowering climbers that flower on last season’s growth immedi-
Climbing roses have large flowers, more ately after flowering.
than 2 inches across, borne on wood that Prune vines that are grown for foliage to
is 2 or more years old. Canes are larger control growth and direction. Timing is less
and sturdier than those of Ramblers. Some critical than for flowering vines.
flower only once in June, but some, called Groundcover plants require very little
everblooming climbers, flower more or less pruning. Remove dead or damaged stems
continuously throughout the summer. whenever you notice them. Some trailing
Prune these roses in autumn, any time groundcovers may need pruning to prevent
before cold weather sets in. First cut out encroachment on lawn areas or other plants.
dead and diseased canes. Next, remove one For large plantings, a lawn mower set to cut
or two of the oldest canes at ground level to 3 to 4 inches above the crowns makes fast
make room for new canes. Shorten laterals work of this job.
(side shoots) by 3 to 6 inches after flower-
ing. If the plant is strong, keep five to eight
main canes and tie them to a trellis, fence,
wall or other support. If the canes are not
strong, keep only a few.

Rugosa roses
Rugosa roses are native to Asia and well
adapted to colder parts of Alaska. If you
do not remove the dead flowers, they will
develop into beautiful red rose hips in the
fall. Remove any thin shoots you do not
want to develop and compete for water
and nutrients. Prune the branches several
weeks before the first frost. How much you
prune depends upon how large you want
the rugosa to be. If you want the plant to be
large, do not cut the rose all the way back to
 Chapter 5—Pruning • 111

For more information OSU Extension publications

Pruning to Restore an Old, Neglected Apple
UAF Cooperative Extension publica- Tree, EC 1005-E.
tions Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard,
PNW 400.
Growing and Overwintering Fuschia, Ge-
ranium, Dahlia and Tuberous Begonia, Other publications
HGA00333.
Roses: Growing and Overwintering Tender Brickell, C. 1988. Pruning. New York:
Varieties, HGA-00138. Simon and Schuster.
Deaton, C. and M. MacCasky. 1978. All
WSU Cooperative Extension About Pruning. Ortho Books.
publications
Pruning Trees, EB1619.
Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard,
PNW 400.
112 • Pruning—Chapter 5