University of Kentucky

College of Agriculture,
Food and Environment
FCS2-304 CooperATIVE Extension Service

Seams and Seam

Finishes
Linda Heaton and Marjorie M. Baker, Textiles and Clothing

C arefully selected and well-

constructed seams and seam
finishes are important—even
A well-constructed seam finish
should:
 Be neat and smooth in
Consider these factors when
selecting a seam and seam
finish:
critical—steps in the construc- appear-ance, without added
tion process. They are basic bulk.  Fabric—Is it tightly or
techniques used in the sewing  Protect the area and pre- loosely woven? Is it a single
knit or double knit? Does the
process. The seam is the basic vent the edge from raveling,
fabric ravel, curl, or roll?
structural element of a garment stretching, rolling, or curling. What is the weight of the
or household textile item. It is  Not be visible from the fabric: light, me- dium, or
the means by which two pieces of rightside of the garment. heavy? Is it sheer?
fabric are joined together. A seam  Use of garment—Is it
finish is applied to/used on the Seams sports- wear or evening wear?
unfinished seam edge to prevent Seams may be created with thread How often will it be worn?
raveling, curling, or rolling. by hand or machine (sewing  Care of garment—
machine or serger) or with fusion Will it be machine-
Standards through chemical bonding. When washed, hand- washed, or
A well-constructed seam should be: a serger/overlock machine is used dry-cleaned?
 Smooth and even in appear- to construct a seam, the fabric edg-  Location of seam/seam
ance on the inside and outside. es are finished all in one process. fin- ish—Is it curved or
straight? Will it be exposed,
 Even in width throughout. The basic seams are plain, French, as in an un- lined skirt? Will it
 Pressed open or closed, and flat-fell. Unless otherwise be enclosed, as in a collar
accord- ing to the type of seam stated, a seam is stitched inch seam?
and how it is used in the from the cut edge. The fabric from  Sewing ability and
construction process. the stitching line to the cut edge is skill— Are you a novice or an
 If stitched with thread, called a “seam allowance.” experi- enced sewer?
threadshould be appropriate to  Equipment—Do you
the fabric type and fiber have only a straight-line
content and color should stitching sewing machine?
match or be slightly darker Do you have a
serger/overlock machine?
than fabric.
Cooperative Extension Service | Agriculture and Natural Resources | Family and Consumer Sciences | 4-H Youth Development | Community and Economic Development
Plain
A plain seam is the simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams. It is a good choice for the nov-
ice sewer. This seam can be used on woven and knit fabrics and on straight or curved areas. It can be construct-
ed by hand or machine. A seam finish is needed on most woven fabrics, especially when the seam is exposed, and
when knit fabric curls or rolls. Plain seams may be straight-stitched or zigzagged.
Steps:
1. Place the right sides of the
fabric together, matching the
stitching lines. Pin and/or
hand baste.
2. Stitch along the -inch seam
line. Stitching may begin and
end with backstitching (stitch
forward a few stitches, then
backward, then forward to the
end). A narrow, open zigzag
stitch can be used on knit or
stretch fabrics.
3. Press seam flat and then open.

Plain seam. Start with fabric right sides Plain seam. Sew, leaving a 5/8 inch seam
together. allowance.

Plain seam. Press seam allowances open.

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French
The French seam is strong and durable. Because the raw edges of this seam are completely enclosed, there is no
need for an additional seam finish. This seam is usually used on lightweight woven, sheer, and other delicate
fabrics. French seams may be constructed by hand or sewing machine.
Steps:
1. Place the wrong sides of the
fabric together, matching the
stitching lines.
2. Stitch inch from the cut
edge of the fabric. Press.
3. Trim to within to ¼ inch of
the stitching. Press seam open.
4. Fold fabric over at the seam,
right sides together, covering
the cut edges. Press again.
5. Stitch on seam line, approxi-
mately ¼ inch from the folded
edge, to enclose the raw edges.
6. Press flat and then to one side.
Easily done on straight edges,
the French seam can also be
used on curved edges. The French seam. Sew the first line of stitching French seam. Trim seam allowance to
enclosed edges may need to 3/8 inch from the edge. 1/8 inch.
be clipped before pressing in
step 3.

French seam. Turn fabric back along seam French seam. Raw edges of the trimmed French seam. Press completed seam to
with fabric RIGHT sides together; sew ¼ seam allowance are enclosed within the one side.
inch from fold. seam.

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Flat-Fell (also called flat-felled)
This seam is designed for woven fabrics and straight edges. It is used when constructing sportswear, men’s and
children’s wear, reversible items, and heavy-duty items requiring strong, durable seams. It is usually made with a
sewing machine and can be difficult to construct on heavy fabric. No additional seam finish is necessary.
Steps:
1. Place the wrong sides of the
fabric together. Stitch along
the -inch seam line to make a
plain seam. Press seam allow-
ance to one side. Care should
be taken to avoid pressing a
pleat along the seam line.
2. Trim lower seam allowance
(inside seam allowance) to
inch.
3. Turn the top seam allowance
edge under ¼ inch. Press.
4. Stitch folded edge to under
fabric, enclosing the raw edges.

Flat-fell seam. Start with fabric WRONG Flat-fell seam. Trim one seam allowance
sides together; sew 5/8 inch seam. to ¼ inch wide.

Flat-fell seam. Fold wider seam allowance Flat-fell seam. Top stitch close to fold.
over and around trimmed seam allowance; Two rows of stitching are visible on the
pin flat to fabric. RIGHT side.

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Serged
To construct serged seams, you must have a serger/overlock machine. A 3-thread serged seam is used when con-
structing knit items, especially when “give” or stretch is important. A 4-thread seam is used when constructing
garments made from woven fabrics and some knit fabrics; it requires the use of a second needle and thread and
is more stable than the 3-thread stitch.
Use a serger:
y For
it loose-fitting garments when
lieisflat.
not important for seams to
y pressed
When seams will not
open because stay
of their
location, as with sleeves, under-
the-arm seams, side seams that
are stitched all at one time, and
kimono sleeves.
y On most knits when narrow
seams to
needs arestretch.
best and the fabric
y On some
when thelightweight
seam shouldfabrics
be incon-
spicuous.
Steps:
1. Place right sides of the fabric
together, matching the stitch-
ing lines. The novice sewer
3-thread serged seam. Use on knit fabric 3-thread serged seam. Press seam to one
may want to hand baste. to allow for stretch. side.
2. Guide fabric under the presser
foot so that the needle stitches
on the seam line. The cutting
blade(s) of the serger will trim
the seam allowances and the
looper threads will encase the
fabric edges in thread creating
a seam finish.
3. Press flat and then to one side.

4-thread serged seam. Use for woven 4-thread serged seam. Press seam to one
and knit fabrics that require stability. side.

5
Special
The following seams are usually used on fabrics that present a greater challenge to sew or in sewing situations
that are more complex. They are a must in some circumstances, as noted.

Hairline Lapped
The hairline seam is primarily used The lapped seam resembles a top-
on sheer and lightweight woven stitched plain seam from the right
fabrics. It is not appropriate for side. This seam may be referred
mediumweight or bulky fabrics. The to as a “tucked” or “decorative
hairline seam is especially nice for lapped” seam. There are two ways
collars and enclosed areas and can to construct a lapped seam. One
be used on straight or curved areas. method is used when stitching a
A sewing machine is necessary. No seam is difficult or impossible, as in
seam finish is needed on an en- a V-pointed yoke area. The second
closed seam. Hairline seams elimi- method is used to eliminate bulk;
nate visible seam allowances and are for example, when joining interfac-
often used in heirloom sewing. ing pieces or nonwoven fabrics,
Steps: such as suede, felt, and synthetic
suede. The lapped seam is usually
1. Stitch along seam line using a done on a sewing machine.
short, straight stitch (approxi-
mately 14 to 16 stitches per Method I
inch) or a narrow, short zigzag The seam allowance may need a
stitch. (For a stronger seam or seam finish unless it is covered by
to give the seam more weight, a lining or facing. Lapped seam. Overlapping seam
stitch over pearl cotton cord.) allowance on woven fabric is pressed
2. Trim close to the stitching, Steps: under prior to top stitching.

leaving approximately -inch 1. Mark seam allowances on

seam allowance. Press seam to both fabric pieces. On the
one side. fabric piece that will be posi-
3. Turn right side out. tioned on top (outside), turn
and press seam allowance un-
4. Press. der, along the seam line.
2. Position folded seam allow-
ance on top of the remaining
seam allowance, matching
folded edge to seam allowance.
Pin in place.
3. Edge stitch close to folded edge.
4. Press.
Method II
Steps:
1. Mark seam allowances on both
pieces of the fabric. (If working
with suede or synthetic suede,
you might want to measure
and remove a portion— to ½ Lapped seam. Overlapping seam
inch—of the seam allowances allowance on non-woven (Ultrasuede®)
Hairline seam. Trim seam allowance close before layout and cutting to fabric is trimmed prior to top stitching.
to zigzag stitching. save fabric.)

6
2. On the piece that will be on
top, trim away the entire seam
allowance (unless you have
eliminated it prior to cutting).
3. Position trimmed seam al-
lowance piece on top of un-
trimmed seam allowance,
matching trimmed edge with
marked seam allowance. Pin,
tape, or glue in place.
4. Edge stitch through all layers
of fabric close to the cut edge.
(A second row of stitching
gives the appearance of a flat-
fell seam.)

Corded or Piped
A corded or piped seam is used
Corded or piped seam. Baste cording/
for both dressmaking and home
piping to one side along sew line; sew
decor. Covered cording can be second fabric with right sides together
purchased and comes in various sandwiching cording/piping between the Mock French seam. Start with fabric
sizes or you can cover your own. fabric. RIGHT sides together. Turn under raw
edges of both seam allowances and stitch
Bias strips should be used to cover close to the folded edge.
cord as it wraps around the cord- Mock French
ing more snuggly than straight This seam works on the same
grain strips. Cording can be used fabrics as the French seam. It looks Welt
around collars, cuffs, pockets, or like a plain seam from the right The welt seam, also referred to as
anywhere to add a decorative ac- side and a small enclosed double- a mock flat-fell seam, provides the
cent to a seamline. stitched seam on the underneath same tailored appearance as the
side. It can be constructed by hand flat-fell but is easier to construct. It
Steps: is best used on fabrics that do not
but is usually done on a sewing
1. Pin or baste cording to right machine. This seam is used when ravel or on items that will be lined
side of one seam allowance a French seam cannot be handled or will not have exposed seams or
with seamlines even and raw well, such as on a curved seam edges. Otherwise, an additional
edge towards raw edge of seam line. This is an excellent seam to seam finish may be needed.
allowance. Cording will need use in the sleeve/armhole area of
to be clipped when applied to a sheer, special occasion garment,
Steps:
curved seams or when turning such as a wedding or prom dress, 1. With right sides of the fabric
corners. Use a zipper foot or or a sheer blouse/jacket. No addi- together, stitch a plain seam. It
cording foot to stitch close to tional seam finish is required. is best to have at least a -inch
cording. seam allowance. Press seam
2. Place seam allowances right Steps: allowances together to one
sides together with cording 1. Place right sides of the seam side, then press open.
sandwiched in between, ad- allowances together. Stitch 2. Determine which direction
just needle position slightly so along the regular seam line. your final seam will lie. Trim
stitching will be between the 2. Press seam open, then flat. the seam allowance that will
first stitching and the cording. 3. Turn in both edges of the seam be uppermost to the outside
This will prevent any of the allowance approximately ¼ of the item to ¼ inch. Press
previous stitching from show- inch. Press, then press together. wider seam allowance over the
ing on the outer side of the trimmed seam allowance.
seamline. Stitch the seam. 4. Stitch the folded edges togeth-
er close to the edge.

7
3. On the right side of the fabric, Seam Finishes
edge stitch close to the seam
line through all layers of fabric. Seam finishes may also be referred to as “edge” finishes, as they may be
Stitch again, approximately used in locations other than seam allowances. These locations include
inch away, through fabric and hem edges and facings. The method of construction is almost always the
remaining seam allowance on same, and the goal is to prevent a raw edge from raveling (woven fabric) or
the underneath side. curling (knit fabric).

Edge Stitched Double Stitched and

As a seam finish, this technique is Trimmed
reserved for firmly woven fab- The double-stitched finish begins
rics. The finish requires a sewing with a plain seam. It is used for
machine, but it is easy to con- knit fabrics and on seam allowanc-
struct. Edge stitching is suitable es that are pressed together to one
for straight or curved seams and side and treated as one. It is also
edges. Pinking the raw edge is ac- used on lightweight knit fabrics
cepted as a seam finish when done to prevent seam allowances from
in addition to the edge stitching. rolling or curling. The technique
is ideal for the beginning sewer
Steps:
and may be done several ways. It
1. With right side of the seam al- requires a sewing machine. Some
lowances together, prepare a methods require a sewing machine
Welt seam. Use on bulky fabric. Start with
plain seam. Press it open. with zigzag or decorative stitch
a plain seam, trim one seam allowance to 2. Take one side of the seam al- capability. Note: The machine
¼ inch, and press wider seam allowance lowance (single thickness) and overedge stitch is recommended for
over the trimmed seam allowance. raveling woven fabrics, not knits.
stitch a line of regulation ma-
chine stitching (approximately
12 to 14 stitches per inch about Steps:
¼-inch from the cut edge). 1. With right sides of the seam
3. Repeat on the other seam allowances together, prepare a
allowance. plain seam. Press seam together.
Optional: Pink the raw edge. 2. Stitch a second row of stitching
into the seam allowance area
approximately inch away
from first line of stitching. The
second row of stitching can be
a straight conventional stitch, a
medium-width zigzag.
3. Trim close to second row of
stitching.
4. Press seam to one side.
5. If the sewing machine has a
machine overedge/overcast
stitch, trim seam allowances
first and then stitch them
together using an overcast
Welt seam. Top stitch close to seam line presser foot.
and 3/8 inch away to mimic the look of the
flat-fell seam. Stitched and pinked seam finish. Edge
stitch ¼ from raw edge; pink raw edges.

8
 adjusted to accommodate and pre-
vent fabric raveling. The more the
fabric ravels, the closer together
the stitches need to be (tighten or
shorten stitch length).

Steps:
1. With right sides of the fabric
together, prepare a plain seam.
Press it open.
2. Adjust machine to the appro-
priate zigzag stitch and length.
3. On one seam allowance (single
thickness), stitch close to, but
Double stitched and trimmed seam. not on, fabric edge (approxi-
Use on knit fabrics to prevent fabric from mately inch from raw edge).
curling and as an alternative to using the Machine overcast seam finish. Use the
4. Trim excess fabric close to the overcast presser foot.
serger.
line of stitching. Press.
4. Repeat on the other side of the
Machine Zigzag Machine OverEdge/ seam allowance.
A large seam allowance (up to 1 Overcast
inch) may be used when cutting Some sewing machines have a
Hand Overcast
out the garment, because the fin- special overedge presser foot and/ This is one of the original meth-
ished seam allowance will be to or machine setting to overcast (sew ods of finishing seams and edges,
¼ inch smaller. over) the edges of the fabric with- predating the invention of the
This finish is used on a plain seam out causing the fabric or thread to sewing machine. There are occa-
on woven fabric. It requires a jam the machine. If your machine sions when this edge finish is the
sewing machine that has a zigzag has this capability, use this stitch most appropriate technique. Hand
stitch capability. The finish is used instead of the machine zigzag tech- overcast is used on woven fabrics
on medium- to heavyweight fab- nique previously described. The with straight and curved areas. It
rics, including corduroy. The zigzag overcast technique does not have is also good—and necessary—in
stitch length (coverage) must be to be trimmed, nor do you have to areas not suited to other finish-
allow for larger seam allowances ing techniques, such as L-shaped
when cutting out the garment. areas (created at a kick pleat) and
V- shaped areas (created when bulk
Steps: is removed from a princess-line
1. With right sides of the fabric seam). This stitch is done by hand
together, prepare a plain seam. rather than by machine. Use a
Press open. hand needle and single thread that
2. Adjust sewing machine for matches the fabric color. It is not
overedge or overcast setting. difficult but may take some skill
(Change presser foot and to get stitches to appear uniform.
adjust tension and/or stitch This finish can be used with other
length if necessary.) seams that might require a finish
other than the plain seam, such as
3. On one seam allowance (single the mock flat-fell or the lapped.
thickness) edge, align machine
needle to stitch approximately Steps:
to ¼ inch from the edge,
1. With right sides of the fabric
allowing it to wrap a thread
together, prepare a plain seam.
Zigzag seam finish. Zigzag 1/8 inch from around the edge as it moves
Press it open.
raw edge; trim close to stitching. right to left.

9
2. Beginning at the end of one Steps:
seam allowance edge through
1. With right sides of the fabric
single fabric thickness, secure
together, prepare a plain seam.
thread on the underneath side
Press the seam open.
of the seam allowance, approx-
imately ¼ inch from the edge. 2. Edge stitch ¼ inch from the
raw edge of each seam allow-
3. Bring needle through from
ance.
bottom to top side. Position
the point of needle underneath 3. Turn the edge of the seam al-
fabric edge, approximately lowance under at the line of
inch away from the first stitch. stitching. Finger press.
4. Bring the needle and thread 4. Stitch close to the edge
through to the right side again. through the folded fabric.
Repeat until the edge is wrapped
in thread. Stitches should be
Stitched and turned seam finish. Edge
secure to the fabric edge but stitch each seam allowance, fold raw edge
not tight. Fabric edge should under along stitching, and sew close to
remain flat and not drawn. The folded edge. Also called Clean Finished.
more the fabric tends to ravel,
the closer together your hand Bound Finishes
stitches need to be.
There are several forms of bound seam finishes. They are all appropriate for
medium-, medium-heavy, and heavyweight woven fabrics. A bound finish is
used frequently on unlined coats and jackets. It can also be used on dresses
and other items that have a tendency to ravel. It is often used on hem edges
and facings. The substance used for binding should be appropriate for the
fabric in terms of care and maintenance. The binding should never add
unnecessary bulk. This finish can be constructed by hand or on a sewing
machine. This method may be difficult and time-consuming for the novice.

Bound with Binding

Use double-fold bias tape for casual
wear and utilitarian items, and tricot
binding, such as Seam Great™ and
Seam Saver™, for dressy or light-
weight items.
Hand overcast seam. Use in areas that are
difficult to seam by machine.
Steps:
1. With right sides of the fabric
Clean Finished together, prepare a plain seam.
This finish, also called “turned Press it open.
and stitched,” is used not only for 2. Encase each seam allowance
seams but is also used throughout edge in tape/binding. If using
the garment when the fabric is bias tape, the longer edge should
lightweight. It is often used to fin- go on the underneath side. If
ish hem and facing edges. It is not using tricot binding, pull gently
appropriate for heavyweight or knit to get binding to fold slightly
around the edge to be bound. Bound seam finish. Use bias tape to
fabrics because it produces bulk. enclose raw edges.
Cutting a wider seam allowance 3. Stitch in place using a regula-
will permit a finished -inch seam tion straight stitch or a long
allowance. zigzag stitch. Press.

10
Self-Bound 3. With right sides together,
This finish is designed for light- match edge of bias strip to
weight fabrics. It is well suited to single edge of seam allowance.
sheer or see-through items, espe- Stitch ¼ inch from edge. Repeat
cially when other finishes do not on other seam allowance.
give them an attractive appearance, 4. Fold bias strip over the edge,
as in a sleeve cap or arm hole. At encasing raw seam allowance.
least a -inch seam allowance is Press.
required.

Steps:
1. Begin with a plain seam. Trim
one seam allowance to inch.
2. Turn remaining seam allow-
ance under inch and press.
3. Turn the folded seam allow-
ance edge again over the -
inch seam allowance so that
it is enclosed/encased. Stitch
close to the folded edge and the
first line of stitching. This last Self-bound seam finish. Sew close to fold
just inside the original seam line.
stitching can be done by hand
or machine.
Hong Kong
The Hong Kong finish is closely
related to the bound finish but
may not be as bulky as a bound Hong Kong seam finish. Sew bias fabric
finish using bias tape. It is used strip to each seam allowance ¼ inch from
for coats, jackets, and other items raw edge.
with exposed seams. It can add a
decorative touch if a contrasting
or coordinating print fabric is used
as the binding substance. Select a
lightweight, firmly woven fabric,
such as lining fabric or batiste, to
use as binding. Choose a binding
fabric that requires the same care
techniques as the fabric.

Steps:
1. With right sides of the fabric
together, prepare a plain seam.
Press open.
2. Cut several 1¼- to 1½-inch-wide
Self-bound seam finish. Trim one seam
allowance to 1/8 inch; fold wider seam bias strips from lining, light-
allowance under and over trimmed seam weight broadcloth/print cloth,
allowance. or other lightweight woven fab-
ric. Strips can match or coordi-
nate with the fabric color. Sew Hong Kong seam finish. Wrap bias fabric
bias strips together lengthwise, strip around and to the back of the raw
edge.
making a long continuous strip.

11
5. Stitch in the ditch (the crevice Steps: Other Finishes
created by the seam) securing 1. With right sides of the seam
the bias strip to the underside The following seam/edge finishes
allowances together, prepare a should be used cautiously as they
of the seam allowance. Trim plain seam. Press.
excess bias fabric close to the are often selected and used inap-
line of stitching on the under- 2. Set serger for appropriate 2- or propriately.
neath side. 3-thread stitch. Stitch, cutting
Pinking—Pinking shears are scis-
away approximately inch of
sors that leave a zigzag pattern.
the edge of seam allowance.
The sawtooth pattern on the edge
Depending on the construction
of the fabric limits the amount of
area and circumstances, edges
fraying. Use this finish only on
may be finished separately if
firmly woven fabrics or on items
they are to be pressed open.
that will receive little wear, as in a
garment lining. Pinking is some-
times used as a decorative edge,
but it should not be used alone as
a seam finish as it does not prevent
or retard raveling. Its use in gar-
ment construction is limited.
Liquid seam retardant (Dritz Fray
Check™, Helmar’s Fray Stoppa™,
June Tailor’s Fray Block™)—Use
this commercial product on any
fabric element that may fray or
Hong Kong seam finish. Stitch in the
ravel, around buttonholes and on
ditch to secure bias to the back of the
seam allowance; trim excess bias fabric the corners of a collar, for example.
close to stitching. Do not use in garment areas that
might touch and rub the body as
it can make some fabrics stiff and
Serged scratchy. It is fast, inexpensive, and
3-thread serged edge finish. Serge seam easy to use.
The serger/overlock machine can allowances together; press seam to one side.
be used to finish seam allowances
and as an edge-finishing method.
Since knits do not ravel, the serged About the Authors
edge finish is used on woven fab- Written by Linda Heaton, Ph.D.,
rics only. The serged edge finish Extension Professor, Textiles
may be necessary, however, if a and Clothing
knit fabric edge tends to curl or Revised by Marjorie M. Baker,
roll. A 2-thread overedge stitch is M.S., Extension Associate,
used for lightweight fabrics be- Textiles and Clothing
cause it creates the least amount
of bulk. (Not all 3- and 4-thread
machines convert to a 2-thread
stitch.) A 3-thread stitch is great
for other fabric weights or when a
2-thread overedge is not available.
The 4-thread is not necessary and
will only add bulk. 3-thread serged seam finish. Serge seam
allowances separately and press open.

12
 Mention or display of a trademark,
proprietary product, or firm in text
or figures does not constitute an
endorsement and does not imply ap-
proval to the exclusion of other
suitable products or firms.

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