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dia of Food and Health, Edition: First, Chapter: Condensed milk, Publisher: Elsevier Publishers, London UK,
Finglas, Toldra, pp.291-295

kant D Kalyankar
Maharashtra Animal & Fishery Sciences University

esh Deshmukh
Maharashtra Animal & Fishery Sciences University

ndraprakash D. Khedkar
Maharashtra Animal & Fishery Sciences University

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11 References 1 Figures
Kalyankar S.D., Deshmukh M.A., Khedkar C.D., Deosarkar S.S. and Sarode A.R. (2016) Condensed Milk. In:
Caballero, B., Finglas, P., and Toldrá, F. (eds.) The Encyclopedia of Food and Health vol. 2, pp. 291-295. Oxfo
Academic Press.

© 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Author's personal copy

Condensed Milk
SD Kalyankar and MA Deshmukh, Government College of Dairy Technology, Udgir, India
CD Khedkar, SS Deosarkar, and AR Sarode, College of Dairy Technology, Pusad, India
2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Introduction valuable surplus nutrients, and they reduce transportation

costs. These products can be used under adverse conditions
Since ancient times, people have been aware that milk could such as wars, epidemics, or earthquakes or other natural disas-
only be kept fresh for a short while and that it was only ters when fresh milk is unavailable. They are also suitable for
available in the immediate vicinity of a cow. In the thirteenth specialty food products designed for people such as sportsmen,
century, Marco Polo reported that the Tatars were able to convalescents, or older individuals.
condense milk. He stated that 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of milk Evaporated milk (EM) is sterilized unsweetened con-
paste was carried by each man, who would subsequently mix densed milk, and this product is available commercially. It
the product with water. However, this report probably refers to is prepared from fresh milk from which a sizable (almost
the soft Tatar curd katyk, which can be made into a drink half) amount of water is evaporated. Then the product is
) by diluting it, and therefore it refers to a fermented, homogenized and canned, and the cans are subjected to the
not fresh, milk concentrate. Nicolas Appert condensed milk in thermal process of sterilization (Figure 1
France in 1820, and Gail Borden Jr. did the same in the United limited availability of fresh milk, milk powder is used in part
States in 1853, in reaction to the difficulty of storing fresh milk or all of the solids-not-fat (SNF). Similarly, the fat portion
for more than a few hours. While returning from a trip to can be obtained from anhydrous milk fat (AMF). If the
England in 1851, Borden was devastated by the death of several product is prepared using only milk powder and AMF, it is
of his children, apparently from poor quality milk obtained called recombined evaporated milk (REM). In addition to milk,
from shipboard cows. Borden was inspired by the vacuum pan skim milk, and cream, sweet cream buttermilk is also fre-
he had seen being used by Shakers to condense fruit juice, and quently used as a source of some of the milk solids. Because
he was at last able to reduce milk without scorching or curdling sweet cream buttermilk contains a large portion of the fat
it. Even then, his first two factories failed, and only the third, globule membrane lipids in milk, it improves the heat stabil-
built in New York with his new partner, Jeremiah Milbank, ity and the flavor of products, particularly REM. The proper-
produced a usable milk derivative that was long-lasting and ties of REM resemble those of EM.
needed no refrigeration. There is no provision under the Codex Alimentarius stan-
The first person to preserve milk in a concentrated form was dards to distinguish a product made from milk powders and
Nicolas Appert, who, in the early nineteenth century, concen- AMF from that made from fresh milk. But legislation in some
trated milk by boiling it in a water bath over a fire, then pour- nations has set limits on the use of powders (e.g., EU legisla-
ing it into glass bottles after cooling, and sterilizing the final tion requires that no more than 25% of the milk solids in
product by heating the bottles for 2 h in a boiling water bath. regular unsweetened condensed milk are derived from milk
Two inventions made in the second half of the nineteenth powder). There is an emerging trend in some countries to
century resulted, essentially, in the process that is still used prepare EM using vegetable fats (most frequently, palm oil)
today. Gail Borden (1856) patented the process to evaporate instead of milk fats; this trend could be due to an attempt to
milk, which uses low pressure to make sweetened condensed reduce costs or simply a local preference to not use milk fats.
milk. In 1884, John B. Meyenberg patented a process for ster- The product thus prepared is called ‘filled’ EM. Oils high in
ilizing concentrated milk in tinned cans, which were rotated polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as soybean or sunflower oil,
under pressurized steam, allowing for a relatively short sterili- are used in food products to lower blood cholesterol. The
zation time. A brief account of the historical developments of oxidation stability of the fats used in REM is of paramount
condensed milk manufacturing is conveyed in Table 1. importance.
To improve milk’s heat stability during thermal processing,
sodium orthophosphate is added. In addition, calcium carbon-
ate, soy lecithin, or calcium chloride is added to help improve
Condensed Milk milk’s heat stability. Polyphosphates are also added to ultra-
high-temperature (UHT)-sterilized evaporated milk to control
Condensed dairy products are value-added milk products with defects such as age gelation of the product. The Codex sets a
extended shelf life. Fresh milk is clarified and standardized to a maximum limit for an addition of 0.2% on an individual basis,
suitable level of fat, and it is then heat treated at 85–90  C for or 0.3% if a combination is used.
several seconds. This heating process acts as a hurdle, which When the liquid product is mixed with a proportionate
destroys the majority of microorganisms. It also decreases fat amount of water, EM becomes the rough equivalent of fresh
separation and inhibits oxidation. The water content of the milk. However, it requires half the space of its nutritional
milk is reduced due to evaporation. Condensed milk products equivalent (fresh milk), which makes EM attractive for trans-
have several advantages over fresh milk, such as they require portation purposes as it can have a shelf life of months or even
less storage space, they retain high quality, they preserve milk’s years, depending on the fat and sugar content. EM is a safe and

Encyclopedia of Food and Health http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-384947-2.00192-6

The Encyclopedia of Food and Health, (2016), vol. 2, pp. 291-295

Author's personal copy

292 Condensed Milk
Table 1 Historical developments in condensed milk manufacture

Developments in condensed milk manufacturing

Marco Polo (Mongolia) described the method for preparing a pasty milk concentrate, which was mixed with water
Nicolas Appert (France) described a method for preserving milk by condensing it
Gail Borden Jr. commercially developed a method of condensing milk; he is known as ‘the Father of the process of milk condensing’
Borden’s milk, sold under the Eagle Brand, gained popularity for its purity, durability, and affordability
Borden’s New York Condensed Milk Co. constructed the New York Milk Condensery, the largest and most advanced condensery, in Brewster,
New York
The vacuum pan was markedly improved due to advancements in scientific knowledge in the field of sterilization
John B. Meyenbarg (Switzerland) experimented to create the process to sterilize condensed milk using steam under pressure. He conceived the
idea of making condensed milk without the addition of sugar or other preservatives and without storing it under refrigeration
The Federal Food & Drug Act of 1906 changed the name ‘evaporated cream’ to ‘evaporated milk’
1911 Nestlé constructed the world’s largest condensed milk plant in Dennington, Victoria, Australia
Professor O. F. Hunziker, Head of the Department of Dairy at Purdue University published a book titled Condensed Milk and Milk Powder.
Professor Hunziker and others with the American Dairy Science Association standardized and improved condensery operations in the United
States and other countries
Plate-type evaporators were developed
Anand Milk Producer’s Union Ltd. (AMUL), in India, started the first ever commercial production of sweetened condensed milk in that country

Milk lactose, milk permeate, or milk retentate. However, additions

that change the ratio of casein-to-whey protein are not allowed,
Receiving and selection with the local legislations in some countries still forbidding
standardization of the protein.
Preliminary treatment
(Clarification, Cream separation/Standardization)
Method of Evaporated Milk Preparation
Pre-heating
(115–128 °C, 1–6 min) The method to manufacture sterilized and UHT-sterilized EM
is shown in Figure 1. The major processing steps are discussed
Vacuum evaporation in the following sections.
(45–70 °C)
Preheating
Homogenization
(P1=15–20 MPa; P2=5-10 MPa)
Fresh milk is heat treated before it is concentrated. This treat-
ment is mainly to increase the concentrated milk’s heat
Packaging stability. The homogenized full-cream EM cannot be sterilized
if the milk is not subjected to preheating. Generally, milk is
Sterilization preheated at 110–130  C for about 1–3
(100–120 °C, 15–20 min or 140 °C, 3 s) flow to yield EM with the highest heat stability. Preheating also
acts as an important hurdle for microbial growth as it inacti-
Storage
(20 °C)
vates microbial spores. For REM, preheating is carried out by
the powder manufacturer, before concentration and drying.
Figure 1 Flow diagram for the preparation of condensed milk. This allows the powder to be reconstituted at the predeter-
mined concentration for REM.

reliable substitute for perishable fresh milk, and it was very Concentration of milk
popular before the invention of refrigeration. It can be easily Modern multistage falling film evaporators with energy
shipped to locations devoid of resources for safely producing efficient designs are invariably used for milk concentration.
or storaging milk. Today, households across the world use it Overconcentration should be avoided to prevent the risk of
most often to prepare desserts and in baked goods due to its lowering the milk’s heat stability. Similarly, overconcentration
characteristic flavor. also requires higher energy use and lowers the production
The Codex Alimentarius standards, which are the most capacity. Based on the continuous measurement of the refrac-
common in international trade, prescribe a minimum of tive index or density of the concentrate, the total solids (TS)
7.5% milk fat and 25% total milk solids (TMS) in EM. Simi- content is adjusted at the point where the product leaves the
larly, legislation in various nations has set limits for the com- evaporator. The final standardization of fat and TS is usually
position of EM. According to the traditional British standard, carried out between the concentrating and sterilizing processes.
EM requires a minimum of 9% milk fat and a minimum of The milk, which is concentrated by reverse osmosis (RO), can
31% TMS, while the U.S. standard prescribes a minimum of also be used to prepare unsweetened condensed milk. EM

7.9% milk fat and 25.9% TMS. Thus, the concentration of EM produced by RO has virtually the same composition and prop-
 7.9% milk fat and 25.9% TMS. Thus, the concentration of EM produced by RO has virtually the same composition and prop-
ranges from 2.0 to 2.5. The Codex allows the protein content in erties as that produced by evaporation, but the industrial
the SNF to be adjusted, with a minimum of 34%, by adding application of RO for this purpose appears to be very limited.

The Encyclopedia of Food and Health, (2016), vol. 2, pp. 291-295

Author's personal copy

Condensed Milk

Homogenization respectively). Mechanically sealed cans are widely used for the
The milk is homogenized as this process prevents coalescence packaging of concentrated milk products. Modern tinned plate
of fat globules and reduces the rate of creaming while the is coated with a layer of a polymer to prevent the dissolution of
product is stored. The homogenization pressures up to about the tin and iron into the product. In some Western European
MPa generally have little effect on or slightly increase heat countries, glass bottles with twist-off caps are used to package
stability, but higher pressures result in a large decrease in heat EM used as a coffee creamer. Aluminum foil-lined milk cartons
stability. The concentrated milk is homogenized immediately and single-portion cups made of aluminum or polystyrene are
after it leaves the evaporator. A higher homogenization tem- also widely used. The EM packaged in translucent (white)
perature results in a smaller fat globule size at the same pres- polystyrene single-portion cups usually develops an oxidized
sure with better heat stability. flavor due to the permeability of this material to both oxygen
and light.
Heat stability test
During preparation of EM, it is obvious that the heat stability
Sterilization
of the product varies from batch to batch. Stabilizers are added Sterilization not only kills all microorganisms but also inacti-
vates all microbial spores that may germinate during the stor-
to regulate the heat stability. The amount of stabilizer needed
also varies to a great extent. The quantity of stabilizers to be age of EM. The native milk enzymes are inactivated during
preheating. While selecting the milk to prepare as concentrated
added is determined by adding different amounts of the stabi-
lizers to a series of cans containing the product. The cans are milks, its excellent microbiological quality should be noted.
The enzymes produced by microorganisms (especially psy-
subsequently sterilized, and the contents are checked for heat
stability. The amount of stabilizer that results in the optimum chrotrophs) should be absent because they are thermostable,
and even sterilization is insufficient to inactivate them. Heating
properties is added to the total batch.
is carried out in continuous sterilizers. Several machines have
been designed to fill cans with concentrated milk. In a com-
Cooling and cold storage monly used system, known as ‘vent hole type,’ concentrated
After homogenization, EM is cooled and stored, and then a milk flows through a small aperture (3
predetermined quantity of stabilizer (dissolved in water) is diameter) into cans. After filling, the cans are sealed carefully
added; this quantity is determined by the results of the stability because the seal has to withstand the heat of the sterilization
test. At this stage, prolonged storage should be avoided to process. It is also essential that the cans be filled as quickly as
prevent microbial growth. Final standardization of fat and TS possible to avoid contaminating the milk. The opening in the
can be carried out at this stage, taking the amount of water that cans is usually soldered by a mechanical finger. The filled and
is added with the stabilizer into account. The cold storage of sealed cans are then tested for leaks by plunging them into a
unsterilized EM for more than 24 h considerably increases the hot water tank. If any of the cans rise or give off air bubbles,
risk of the sterilized product’s age gelation. they are discarded as unfit for sterilization. Modern sealing
EM is expected to be stored for longer period, which processes are carried out so rapidly that a large number of
requires various conditions so that the product’s quality does cans may be sealed in 1 min. In this process, open or sanitary-
not deteriorate during storage. The storage temperature is one type cans are used. The concentrated milk fills the open can,
major factor determining the shelf life of the product. one end of which is already seamed, and, after filling, the other
Condensed milk and EM are stored at about 10–15  C. Storage end of the can is seamed by an automatic seaming machine.
temperatures such as 0  C or below may lead to sugar Cans are sterilized in a horizontal rotating system with rotary
separation in the condensed milk, leading to sandiness; this air locks, while the bottles are sterilized in hydrostatic steril-
sugar separation is caused by the formation of very large lactose izers. These are highly energy-efficient systems because they
crystals. A very low storage temperature also increases the have considerable heat regeneration.
viscosity of the product, which may be beneficial up to a
certain point, but it also affects the product’s body and texture
characteristics. It has been shown that commercial EM remains Defects in Evaporated Milk
acceptable even after 2 years when stored below 15 C, but it Condensed milk and EM are products with a prolonged shelf
deteriorates rapidly when stored at 21  C or above. The humid- life. They have typical body, texture, and sensory properties by
ity of the storage space should also be kept low (below 50%) to which they are identified. These properties must be such that
check the spoilage of cans and labels. Inversion of the cans the product is fit for sale immediately after production and
during storage minimizes fat separation in EM. does not alter during a reasonable period of storage. The prod-
uct should be physically, chemically, and microbiologically fit
Packaging for human consumption until the end of the storage period.
One of the characteristic features of EM is its long shelf life at Routine examination of the product soon after its manufacture
ambient temperatures; this feature places high demands on the as well as during its storage may be carried out to judge the
packaging materials. The packaging materials should meet the quality of the product. If a defect is noted, care should be taken
criteria of mechanical resistance and permeability to water, to eliminate the defect in subsequent batches. Therefore, it is
light, gasses, and hydrophobic components. Those parts that important to know the expected defects, the probable reasons
are in direct contact with the product must be made of food- for their occurrence, and the preventive measures used to avoid
grade materials. The can is the most widely used container for these defects. The defects that may occur in condensed milk are
EM, with a standard content of 170 or 411 g (6 or 14.5 oz, classified as microbial defects and nonmicrobial defects.

The Encyclopedia of Food and Health, (2016), vol. 2, pp. 291-295

Author's personal copy

294 Condensed Milk

Microbial defects formed, which results in a smooth texture. An optimum stor-

For all sterilized milk products, there is continuous risk of age temperature is also essential to avoid this defect. High
postprocessing contamination. It may be through microleaks viscosity also delays crystal formation; therefore, it is necessary
in the cans or during the filling process. The growth of Bacillus to rapidly cool the condensed milk in the initial stages. Correct
stearothermophilus, a thermophilic spore-forming bacteria, in cooling and induced rapid crystallization with the correct
an evaporator is one of the most important causes of product amount of seed lactose will help to avoid this defect.
defects. Prolonged running time of the evaporator or improper Age thickening : Thickening of the condensed milk is the
cleaning of the equipment may lead to an appreciable spore most common defect s een in sweetened conden
count in the concentrated milk. Inactivation of these spores This defect varies markedly i n its intensity from slight
during sterilization is limited, and the residual spores may gelation to a firm and th ick consistency. The def
germinate and grow if the product is sold in tropical countries, progressively more in tense with storage, especial
where storage temperatures may exceed 40  C. A brief account temperature or abov e. The preheating tempe
of microbial defects follows. milk and the degree to whic h the milk is concentrated hav
Gassy fermentation/bloats : Gas can form in cans and barrels been observed to have p rofound effects on age th
of condensed milk, causing them to bulge or burst. Gas- With high packaging an d heating temperatures
producing yeasts are the cause of many types of gaseous fer- greater tendency for the product to thic
mentations. The source of the contamination may be the raw increasing concentr ation of milk solids
milk, inferior quality sugar, or unhygienic factory conditions dency becomes more mark ed. To avoid early thicke
(e.g., improperly cleaned and sanitized equipment and filling condensed milk, an optimum pr eheating temperature should
machines). To avoid this microbiological defect, good quality be maintained. Sugar sho uld only be added at the end
raw milk and a proper preheating temperature should be used. milk condensing proces s, and the product should pr
In addition, only good quality sugar without any yeast con- be stored at a temperature below 15
tamination should be used. Proper sanitary conditions should of the proper type of stabil izers, age thickening ma
be maintained during the manufacture and packaging of con- decreased to a great e xtent.
densed milk. The containers should be filled fully, with little Brown color: Usually brown color discoloration is associated
space for air or oxygen. with age thickening, both of which become progressively more
Bacterial thickening : Condensed milk thickens progressively intense with storage. The acidity and storage temperature
during storage because of microorganisms, which produce determine the rapidity of this change. This defect may be
rennet-like enzymes. These organisms are easily destroyed dur- avoided by storing the condensed milk at reasonably low

ing the preheating process. An optimum sugar ratio also temperatures.

 ing the preheating process. An optimum sugar ratio also temperatures.
inhibits the growth of the microorganisms. In addition, low- Other defects in condensed milk include some flavor
temperature storage helps to reduce the bacterial thickening. defects such as rancid, tallowy, and metallic. Following good
Mold buttons : This defect occurs during storage due to mold manufacturing practices; using good quality raw materials,
contamination. Small reddish-brown pieces of curd about good quality milk, and good packaging; and storing the prod-
¼ in. to 3/4 in. in diameter form on the product’s surface, uct at a low temperature may help to avoid these defects.
causing localized coagulation. These pieces of curd are caused
by the mold Aspergillus repeno, which produces a rennet-like
enzyme that causes localized clotting. High-temperature stor- Uses of Condensed Milk
age promotes the growth of the organism. The milk may be
infected with the organism during the concentration process. Milk is converted into EM to preserve its nutrients, which
To avoid this defect, scrupulous cleaning and care of dairy should not perish during months or even years of storage
equipment is essential. Because this organism does not grow without refrigeration, and EM can be easily transported over
at low temperatures, storing condensed milk at a lower tem- long distances. For countries with low milk production, espe-
perature will prevent this defect. cially in the tropics, EM is a general-use milk product. In other
markets, EM is used for specific purposes such as in coffee and
tea or for cooking. As fluid milk, EM is consumed after 1:1
Nonmicrobial defects dilution with boiled water. This yields a product with a slightly
These defects are of chemical or physical origin, and they are higher SNF content and fat:SNF ratio than those of the regular
briefly described in the following paragraphs. 3.5% fat full-cream milk. Some consumers prefer the flavor of
Sandiness : Good quality condensed milk should possess a sterilized milk to that of pasteurized or UHT-sterilized milk.
smooth homogenous texture and be pleasant to the palate. The quantity of EM required to give coffee, cocoa, or tea a
Sometimes, however, the milk may be gritty and contain a milky flavor and a white appearance is relatively small. The
large number of large lactose crystals. The solid particles are products of the Maillard reaction in EM give coffee, cocoa, or
so large that the product lacks smoothness. This defect is tea a yellowish hue, which is preferred over the grayish hue
readily detected by an average consumer. Sandy, rough, grainy, obtained if UHT-sterilized or pasteurized milk is added. EM is
granular, and gritty are the terms used to describe this defect. If obtained from homogenized milk, so it is recommended for
an excess amount of sugar is used to manufacture condensed infant feeding because of the formation of a soft curd in the
milk, the sugar particles may also crystallize out and cause stomach. The smooth consistency of EM makes it an important
sandiness. To check this defect, condensed milk must be ingredient in several types of puddings, sauces, and gravies.
cooled so that a large number of minute sugar crystals are Owing to its high TMS content, it is used to manufacture ice

The Encyclopedia of Food and Health, (2016), vol. 2, pp. 291-295

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