Influence of Delayed Timing on Knitted Fabric

Characteristics
Saber Ben Abdessalem1,2, PhD, Salem Ben Mansour2, Helmi Khelif1

Textile Laboratory of Technology High School of Ksar Hellal, Ksar Hellal, Monastir TUNISIA

National Engineering School of Monastir, Monastir, TUNISIA

Correspondence to:
Saber Ben Abdessalem email: [email protected]

ABSTRACT
Delayed timing is a complex adjustment of large- some knitting parameters on fabric quality such as
diameter circular knitting machine (LCKM). It elasticity and spirality. Other parameters, such as
corresponds to the delay between cylinder and dial delayed timing between cylinder and dial, have a less
needles knock-over. It is generally not well-known by obvious incidence on knitting process and fabric
machines users and its impact on fabric properties has quality. The impact of delayed timing on fabric
not been enough studied in literature. Knitters characteristics is not well-known by knitters who
generally use experience during delayed timing generally know roughly that this adjustment has a
adjustment in order reach needed fabric relation with yarn tension, yarn consumption and loop
characteristics. The aim of this paper was to shape. In fact when the yarn is not enough resistant a
investigate the relation between delayed timing delayed timing can be a solution to avoid cotton yarn
intensity and yarn tension, yarn consumption, fabric breakage during knitting. This kind of yarn has
weight as well as loop length and shape. The obtained generally low resistance when compared to synthetic
results showed that delayed timing has an incidence yarns and causes sometimes breakage problems
on fabric weight and loop shape especially at fabric during knitting especially with double jersey
back side. The origin of this influence has been machines.
discussed and related to needles feeding mechanisms.
In a double jersey machine, synchronised and delayed
INTRODUCTION needle timing can be employed. Synchronised timing,
Knitted fabrics are known for their high structural called also simultaneous timing, is obtained when
sensitiveness to machine adjustment parameters. The cylinder and dial needles reach the knock-over
research work can focus on macro and micro level position at the same point. The knock-over position is
aspects of fabric quality control. Today the market the deepest needle position during loop formation.
demand is on micro level [1]. The improvement of When delayed timing is set, the dial needles knock
knitted structure at micro level calls for better over their loops later than the cylinder needles lying
understanding of mechanisms of loop formation and opposite to them. Based on synchronised timing, the
their influence on fabric quality. adjustment of delayed timing corresponds to a
peripheral displacement of dial cam plate in the
The adjustment parameters of a large-diameter direction of rotation of the machine over a distance
circular knitting machine (LCKM) are very numerous equalling about five to six needles pitches [4, 5]
and contribute collectively to fabric characteristics (Figure 1).
and quality. The literature relating to specific
adjustments of the LCKM is extremely rare and
generally limited to short instructions provided by
machines manufacturers. These instructions are often
brief and do not treat specifically the impact of the
adjustments on fabric properties.

Some adjustment parameters such as yarn tension or

yarn guide position have to be rigorously controlled;
otherwise loop formation could be interrupted. In
previous works [2, 3], we showed the influence of
FIGURE 1. Path of the needle in synchronised and delayed timing.

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Volume 7, Issue 4 – 2012
Delayed timing is necessary in double jersey
machines (ribbing technique or interlock technique)
when plating with an elastane yarn. In fact elastane
yarn is fed immediately to the dial needles via a guide
roller. When the delayed timing technique is applied,
the dial of the circular knitting machine is adjusted in
such a way that its needles sink the loop later than the
needles of the cylinder. This changed setting makes it
possible to thread the elastane yarn only into the
needles of the dial and to knit it in using the plating
technique.

The aims of this research were, therefore, to study the

effect of delayed timing on some fabric
characteristics and on loop shape. This would permit
to reduce machines adjustment duration and better
understand the delayed timing mechanism. FIGURE 3. Photography of needles positions in delayed timing
case.
MATERIAL AND METHODS
We produced a series of rib 1x1 fabrics commonly The produced fabrics are characterized by different
used in the clothing industry by using an industrial delayed timing intensities. An adjustment of yarn
double jersey circular knitting machine (FLG II from consumption was operated when increasing delayed
Mayer & Cie, Diameter = 30 inch, gauge = 18, total timing intensity (from 0 to 4 needles) in order to keep
number of feeders = 48). Used yarn was a 100% a constant yarn tension of about 6 cN. This tension is
combed cotton yarn (Nm=50) and machine was necessary for a correct loop formation.
equipped with positive yarn feeders supplying
constant yarn quantity to feeders. Yarn consumption as well as fabric weight,
corresponding to each delayed timing, was measured
The adjustment of delayed timing is obtained by a at different sites of the tubular fabric. Yarn
rotation of dial cams with a control mechanism. A consumption was determined according to EN 14970
comparator displays the delayed timing standard which consists in measuring the length of a
corresponding to 1, 2 or 5 needles. Figure 2 and yarn portion taken in the fabric sample under an
Figure 3 show the loop formation and needles adapted tension. Fabric weight was measured
positions in the case of delayed timing. according to EN 12127 standard which consists in
determining the weight of 100 cm² fabric by using a
fabric cutter and an electronic balance. All
measurements were performed 24 hours after fabric
knitting, in order to enable fabric to relax, under
standard textile testing conditions of 21°C ± 1°C, and
65% ± 2% relative humidity. Seven specimen of each
sample were tested and the mean values of yarn
consumption and fabric weight were calculated.

Preliminary tests were necessary in order to

investigate the effect of delayed timing on yarn
tension. Theses tests were operated at constant yarn
consumption delivered by the positive yarn feeders
and various delayed timings. For this purpose
machine was running at low speed because yarn
tensions corresponding to the different delayed
timings were sometimes too high or too low and
FIGURE 2. Loop formation in delayed timing case in dial (upper consequently inadequate for a correct loop formation.
view) and cylinder (lower view).

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Volume 7, Issue 4 – 2012
The users of LCKM have generally a subjective
appreciation of the effect of delayed timing on loop
shape. They know that increasing the delayed timing
involves a change of loop shape and fabric
appearance but generally do not know how. That’s
why knitting technicians operate generally an increase
or decrease of delayed timing till they reach an
acceptable appearance of the fabric. In order to
investigate the influence of delayed timing on loop
length and shape, we developed a new technique
allowing the measurement of loop length and shape.
This method consists in dividing the loop into three
parts in order to determine a function f(x) for each
loop part, and calculate the length of theses loop parts
by using a mathematical equation.
FIGURE 4. Rib 1x1 knitted fabric observed with an optical
The key element of this method is the geometry of the microscope.
knitted loop. Pierce [6], Leaf [7, 8, 9], Doyle [10, 11],
Munden [12], Postle [13], Derminoz et al. [14], RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Araujo et al. [15], Semnani et al. [16] and Choi et al Figure 5 shows the influence of delayed timing on
[17] have significantly contributed to the geometric yarn tension at constant yarn consumption. During
analysis of knitted fabric. In most cases, knitted fabric this test machine was running at low speed because
was described with very simple geometrical shapes. yarn tensions corresponding to the different delayed
The geometry of a knitted fabric loop was often timings were sometimes too high or too low and
described with simple theoretical models. That means consequently inadequate for a correct loop formation.
that the loop shape was assumed to be composed of In fact, in order to run correctly without yarn or loop
regular geometries such arcs of circle or segments. In breakage in the circular knitting machine, yarn
our work, we tempted to model the stitch geometry tension has generally to be adjusted between 5 or 6
using curves governed by mathematical functions. In cN for classical yarns.
order to come closer to the real geometric
configuration of the stitch, the parameters of the
mathematical functions were obtained from image
processing of really existing knitted loops.

The shape of the produced rib 1x1 knitted fabric

determined by using an optical microscope with
adequate enlargement is given in Figure 4.
Preliminary testing showed that each loop part can be
modelled by a polynomial function of the second
degree. The length of each loop part is given by the
following equation: FIGURE 5. Influence of delayed timing on yarn tension. 

b The increase of delayed timing involves a decrease of

L 1  f ' ( x) 2 . dx (1) yarn tension. From three needles delayed timing the
a
tendency is inversed. This phenomenon is widely
linked to yarn consumption and sharing between
cylinder and dial needles. Figure 6 shows the
influence of delayed timing on yarn consumption at
constant yarn tension. In this case the machine runs at
standard and convenient yarn tension condition of 5
cN at the different delayed timing levels.

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Volume 7, Issue 4 – 2012
 Figure 8 shows the influence of delayed timing on
fabric weight. The increase of delayed timing
involves an increase of fabric weight. Beyond two
needles this tendency is inversed. This reflects the
evolution of yarn consumption. In fact, a decrease of
yarn consumption generates a reduction of stitches
length. Consequently, rows and wales became closer
to each other and fabric weight per surface unit is
increased. It can also be seen that fabric weight
increases after two days relaxation and specially after
FIGURE 6. Influence of delayed timing on yarn consumption.   washing treatment. The curves have almost the same
shape. Indeed, fabric removed from the LCKM is not
It can be seen that yarn consumption decreases when in a stable state. After two days of rest, it starts to be
increasing the number of needles of delayed timing. stabilized but after washing, it reaches maximum
This reflects the evolution of yarn tension with relaxation and an increase of fabric weight is
delayed timing. From three needles delayed timing, obtained.
yarn consumption increases with delayed timing but
remains lower than that of synchronised timing. This
can be explained by the fact that during synchronised
timing, cylinder and dial needles are directly supplied
simultaneously and pull together yarn from positive
yarn feeder. For this reason yarn consumption is the
highest. During delayed timing of one or two needles,
dial needle is partially supplied by positive yarn
feeder. At the same time, cylinder needles provide the
rest of yarn quantity necessary for loop formation.
From three needles delayed timing, the quantity of
FIGURE 8. Influence of delayed timing on fabric weight.
yarn provided by dial needles to cylinder needles is
not enough to form a loop because needles forming
The increase of delayed timing requires a reduction of
loop in cylinder moved away and consequently
yarn consumption; otherwise yarn becomes too loose
tension increases and yarn consumption has to be
and a yarn break is detected. Theses findings have a
increased in order to avoid yarn rupture. Figure 7
great interest at practical level. In fact, machines users
shows needles positions and yarn feeding in cylinder
has to know that when delayed timing is necessary for
and dial in synchronised and delayed timing. It can be
technical reasons such as a weakness of yam or
seen clearly that in synchronised timing cylinder and
elastane plaiting, an increase of fabric weight has to
dial needle catch yarn and form loops simultaneously.
be considered. However, fabric weight is fundamental
In delayed timing case, cylinder needle goes up
in the specifications of knitted fabric and must be
slightly and gives dial needle the quantity of yarn
respected with tolerances which are not particularly
necessary for dial loop forming. In this case, yarn
high (± 5%). The change of delayed timing usually
supplied by positive yarn feeder to dial needles has to
involves a variation of fabric weight. This has to be
slip through needles hooks. This slippage is harder
taken into account during machine adjustment.
when delayed timing is over two 2 needles. This
explains why yarn delivered by positive yarn feeder
Figure 9 shows the influence of delayed timing on
has to be increased.
loop length. At synchronised timing, cylinder and dial
loops have similar lengths since yarn catching and
loops knock-over are simultaneous in cylinder and
dial needles.

FIGURE 7. Needles positions in cylinder and dial in synchronised

and delayed timing.

FIGURE 9. Influence of delayed timing on loop length.

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Volume 7, Issue 4 – 2012
The increase of delayed timing causes a decrease of supplied by cylinder needles for loop formation. Loop
cylinder loop length. Beyond two needles the length and shape depend also on delayed timing. Dial
tendency is inversed reflecting the behavior of yarn loop length is inversely proportional to delayed
consumption and fabric weight. In the dial, loop timing intensity. Consequently, in delayed timing
length has a different behavior. In fact, the increase of case, loops have a rounded shape and fabric has a
delayed timing causes always a decrease of dial loop better aesthetic appearance at the back side that
length. This is linked to the fact that at high delayed justifies its use as a right side of the garment.
timing, dial needles have a difficulty to pull yarn from
positive yarn feeder and make it slip inside needle A practical study of the effect of delayed timing on
hooks. For this reason dial loop length is as low as fabric dimensional stability after an industrial
delayed timing is important. Another consequence of finishing process is necessary to better understand the
this phenomenon is that dial loop length is always impact of this machine adjustment on global fabric
lower or equal to cylinder loop length for all tested properties.
delayed timings because of the nature of needle
feeding evoked previously. Figure 10 shows the REFERENCES
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AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Saber Ben Abdessalem, Ph.D.
Helmi Khelif
Technology High School of Ksar Hellal
Textile Research Unit, Tunisia
Avenue Hadj Ali Soua
Ksar Hellal, Monastir 5070
TUNISIA

Salem Ben Mansour

National Engineering School of Monastir
Monastir
TUNISIA 

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