Advancements in Textile Finishing
Advancements in Textile Finishing
Advancements in Textile Finishing
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ABSTRACT
A lot of interesting advancements have been witnessed within the last two decades. In this review,
different methods of textile finishing are hereby explained. Whereas the conventional methods of
finishing including wet and dry finishing techniques, are still being practiced on cotton and woolen
fabrics, advanced textile finishing techniques may include functionalization using nano-coatings,
surface modification using hydrolysable silanes and enzymes, microencapsulation, and the
strengthening of synthetic fibres with nanoclays to mention but a few. These techniques induce
different textures and performance characteristics into the textile materials, making them textile
materials for the future, otherwise “futuristic” textiles that could be used in a wide range of
applications from apparels and garments to technical textiles.
Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction......................................................................................................................................26
2.0 Conventional Textile Finishing .........................................................................................................27
2.1 Dry or Mechanical Finishing .........................................................................................................27
2.1.1 Heat-Setting .........................................................................................................................27
2.1.2 Brushing and napping ..........................................................................................................27
2.1.3 Softening ..............................................................................................................................27
2.1.4 Optical finishing ...................................................................................................................28
2.1.5 Shearing ...............................................................................................................................28
2.1.6 Compacting ..........................................................................................................................28
2.2 Wet or Chemical Finishing ...........................................................................................................28
2.2.1 Optical finishes.....................................................................................................................28
2.2.2 Absorbent and soil release finishes .....................................................................................28
2.2.3 Softeners and abrasion-resistant finishes ...........................................................................29
2.2.4 Physical stabilization and crease-resistant finishes .............................................................29
2.2.5 Dyeing and coloration ..........................................................................................................29
2.2.6 Textile fabrication ................................................................................................................30
3.0 Futuristic “Knowledge-based” Textiles ............................................................................................31
4.0 Functional finishing for Advanced Bio-Textiles ................................................................................31
5.0 Nanotechnology and Nano-coatings in Textile Finishing .................................................................32
6.0 Other Textile Surface Modifying Techniques ...................................................................................33
6.1 Surface finishing using hydrolyzable silanes ................................................................................33
6.2 Enzymatic surface modification of textile materials ....................................................................34
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Table of Figures
Figure 1: Scheme for achieving functional advanced bio-textiles ......................................................................... 32
Figure 2: Different physical forms of stimuli-responsive polymers and their macroscopic response (3) .............. 32
Figure 3: Conventional application of enzymes in cotton processing (16) ............................................................ 34
Figure 4: Methods of enzyme immobilization; (a.) covalent bonding, (b.) adsorption, (C.) entrapment in gel, (d.)
intermolecular crosslinking, and (e.) encapsulation (16) ...................................................................................... 35
1.0 Introduction
Textile Finishing refers to a whole lot of processes, procedures and methods for impacting
on the quality of the fibre before and / or after fabric production. Finishing encompasses
chemical or mechanical treatments performed on fibres, yarn, or fabric to improve
appearance, texture, or performance. Some of the fabric finishing methods are brushing,
shearing, pressing, raising, beating, calendaring, and folding. Finishing is done in three
stages which are pre-treatment, coloration and finishing. This definition may be seen as only
pertaining to age-long traditional cotton fabric whereby grey fabrics are made to undergo
series of pre-treatments involving de-sizing, scouring and mercerization using sodium
hydroxide, bleaching with hypochlorite or peroxides, dyeing and then screen / rotary
printing of different designs. Lastly, drying and calendaring the textile fabrics are the final
post-treatment processes. During the pre-treatment stage, use of water, chemicals,
dyestuffs and pigments with attendant release of waste water effluents, is prevalent. In
some of the textile factories, collection of the effluents resulting from these operations is
done with carefully planned layout of pipes channelled to an effluent treatment plant where
the waste water is treated, refined and re-used for the steam boilers and pre-treatment
operations (1,2).
However, as a result of the constantly evolving consumer lifestyles, demand for comfort and
increased applications of textile materials in technical areas within the last two decades, the
global textile industry has adopted a forward looking approach in order to create new
conceptual textile systems for the 21st century. This has resulted in production of functional
textile materials from fibre to fabrics, using both natural and synthetic fibres / polymers. In
most cases, functionalization of the textile fabrics is achieved at the finishing stage. It is
therefore imperative to review a series of advancements in finishing of textile materials so
as to see ways process and procedures can be improved upon, to achieve better
performance products / apparels.
2.1.1 Heat-Setting
Heat-setting involves subjecting textile materials; fibres, yarn and fabrics, to a certain range of
temperatures under tension over a period of time. It is a dry processing technique used to
stabilize and impart texture to synthetic fabrics and fabrics containing high percentage of
synthetics. When manmade fibres are heat-set, the cloth maintains its shape and size in
subsequent finishing operations and is stabilized in the form in which it is held during heat-
setting, smooth, creased, uneven. Textural properties may include interesting and durable
surface effects such as pleating, creasing, puckering, and embossing. Heat-setting also makes
fabrics resistant to wrinkling during wear and ease-of-care properties attributed to
improvements in resiliency and in elasticity. Pollution outputs may include volatile
components of spin finishes if heat-setting is performed before scouring and bleaching
processes. These components are introduced to the fabrics during the manufacture of
synthetic fibres, when proprietary spin finishes are applied to provide lubrication and impart
special properties, such as antistatic, to the fibre.
2.1.3 Softening
Calendaring or ironing is used to reduce surface friction between individual fibres thereby softening
the fabric structure and increasing its sheen. In calendaring, the fabric is made to pass through two
or more rolls. One roll is made of chilled steel, while the other is made of a softer material like
cotton. The steel roll may also be heated using gas or steam. Once goods pass through the machine,
they are wound up at the back of the machine.
2.1.5 Shearing
This process removes surface fibres by passing the fabric over a cutting blade.
2.1.6 Compacting
Compacting includes sanforizing process as is in the case of woollen fabric. Here, the woollen
materials are put in-between blanket cotton fabrics and compressed in order to reduce stresses in
the woollen fabric. Woollen fabrics are prone to high degree of dimensional shrinkage during
washing, and as a result, this process when carried out helps to reduce residual shrinkage of the
fabrics after repeated laundering. The fabric and backing blanket are fed between a roller and a
curved braking shoe, with the blanket under tension. The tension on the blanket is released after the
fabric and blanket pass the braking shoe. Compacting reduces the potential for excessive shrinkage
during laundering.
In knitting, lubricating finishes are applied to knitting yarns. They are based on mineral oils,
vegetable oils, synthetic ester-type oils or waxes, and may also incorporate antistatic agents,
antioxidants, bacteriostats and corrosion inhibitors. The knitting oils are readily emulsified
or solubilised in water, and are thrown into the waste-water after a series of washing stages
before dyeing and printing on the fabric (2). Some selected chemical finishes are explained
below.
surface is increased, the material will likely retain droplets of water, but if reduced, the
droplets of water will run-off the surfaces of the material unaided carrying with them dirt
and dust particles.
Direct dyes or naphthols are those that exhaust on cellulosic fibres from a neutral or weakly alkaline
solution because they have affinity for cotton and other cellulosic fibres when applied from a dye-
bath containing salt. They are applied to cellulosic fibres as a result of inherent surface hydroxyl end
groups on the fibres. They are based on azo compounds containing sulfonic radical which makes
them soluble in water, hence they are also referred to as “acid dyes”.
Basic dyes are water soluble sulphuric acid esters of the vat dyes. They are applied to woollen, orlon,
and acrilan materials from a water solution and are then converted to the original dyestuff by
treatment with an oxidizing agent in acid solution.
Vat dyes are dyes which are applied to cellulosic fabrics and rayon to produce very nice shades by
“vatting”, reducing first with sodium hydrosulphite in an alkaline medium before application.
Fibre-reactive dyes area very new and interesting class of dyes, the fibre-reactive dyes actually
combine chemically with the fibre. They are used for dyeing and printing cotton and rayon. They are
faster than direct dyes, but not as fast as vat dyes in many respects.
Using dyeing and finishing techniques are smart ways to increase profit margins, product
desirability, and performance. They are ubiquitous, and are basically used to produce
brightly colored clothes, but also are applied in areas as diverse as fabric-softened clothes,
to fire-retardant upholstery, to water-shedding umbrellas. Dyes can be screen-printed on a
fabric surface, where selected surfaces of the fabric are patterned with eye-catching designs
or fabric immersion in a dye-bath where the entire yarn or fabric is covered with dye
solution, allowed time for fixation at a particular temperature before drying.
i. The fibre to be dyed may be natural or synthetic. Natural fibres are generally
classified into two main groups; animal or protein fibres and vegetable or cellulosic
fibres. The animal fibres include wool, mohair, alpaca and silk, to name a few. The
vegetable fibres include cotton, linen, bast, jute, and the like. On the part of
synthetic fibres, there are those based on regenerated cellulose, hence cellulosic in
nature, for example viscose rayon. There are those that have amine groups like wool,
for example nylons having amine linkages and so can be regarded as protein fibre in
its dye-ability. Acetate and polyester fibres are neither here nor there, and so they
require a special kind of dyestuff, consisting of the disperse dyes.
ii. The dyestuff to be used is determined by the specific fibre being dyed and by the
fastness properties desired. The direct dyes have affinity for cellulosic fibres and
regenerated fibres. Same goes for the vat dyes which are extensively used to
produce very fast colors on cotton and viscose rayon in all forms. The acid and basic
dyes have high affinity for woolen fabric and protein fibres. While disperse dyes are
used to color the synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon fibres. In every case,
there must be some kind of affinity between the fibre and the dyestuff.
iii. The medium in which the dyeing is to be carried out. Water is the medium in which
almost all dyeing is carried out. The purest type of water is distilled water but
alternatively, rain water is also good. Chlorine, lime salts, iron and other metals
present in the water may have a retarding effect upon the affinity of the dyestuff for
the material. There is also the danger that impurities such as colloidal particles,
organic matter and sediments, can combine with the dyestuff in such a way as to
render it unsuitable for use. In that case, they must be removed by filtration before
the water is used for dyeing.
simple household and industrial products, sewing is relatively straightforward. The product
may then be pressed to flatten the fabric and create crisp edges.
Figure 2: Different physical forms of stimuli-responsive polymers and their macroscopic response (5)
Recently, efforts have been made to immobilize TiO2 nanoparticles onto textile materials
with an aim to produce goods with multifunctional properties but insufficient binding
powers between some fibres and TiO2 nanoparticles have limited their application to
fabrics. The extraordinary photocatalytic activity, non-toxicity, high availability,
biocompatibility, and low price make TiO2 nanoparticles the preferred material for
manufacturing of different high value-added products (10).
Khalil-Abad and Yazdanshenas, 2010(11), reported a facile and effective method to prepare
super hydrophobic cotton textiles using silver nanoparticles. They deposited silver
nanoparticles on cotton fibres by treatment with aqueous potassium hydroxide (KOH) and
silver nitrate (AgNO3), followed by reduction treatment with ascorbic acid in the presence of
a polymeric steric stabilizer to generate a dual-size surface roughness. Further modification
of the particle-containing cotton textiles with octyltriethoxysilane led to hydrophobic
surfaces (11). However, some of the setbacks associated with nano-silver finishing are high
cost of processing precursors, incompatibility to aqueous systems and the tendency to
cause discoloration in the host textile materials. Therefore, in terms of use and
commercialization of nano-finishing, consideration is given to the use of nanoparticles that
are risk-free during their life cycle; production, application, consumption and disposition.
In contrast to the conventional chemical finishing treatments given to natural fibres, the use
of enzymatic processes provide an effective, non-polluting alternative because enzymes
operate under mild conditions, are substrate specific, non-toxic, biodegradable and do not
produce any harmful by-products. As a result, enzymes have an age long tradition of use in
textile wet processing. Enzymatic de-sizing, bio-scouring, bleaching, bio washing and bio
polishing of cotton are well established commercial technologies (16), and scaling up
production process for this type of finishing has been achieved through biotechnological
methods (16). Figure 3 presents process routes for achieving enzymatic treatment in
conventional processing of cotton fabrics, while Figure 4 is a scheme showing methods of
enzyme immobilization after treatment.
Figure 4: Methods of enzyme immobilization; (a.) covalent bonding, (b.) adsorption, (C.) entrapment
in gel, (d.) intermolecular crosslinking, and (e.) encapsulation (17)
production – weaving and knitting. As against the conventional winch, jig and paddle dyeing
techniques, the aerodynamic dyeing technique uses low WEC due to the use of high-fixation
reactive dyes with reduced salt, which is able to boost dye fixation rate up to 90%. They are
also referred to as low liquor ratio (LLR) “jet” dyeing machines. The advantages of this type
of dyeing include; reduction in process time, reduction in total water, energy and chemicals
(WEC) consumption, fabric quality is greatly improved as fabric creases as a result of
squeezing is eliminated and process errors are drastically reduced.
8.0 Conclusion
In conclusion, finishing in textile processing has advanced tremendously from their earlier
conventional exhaust or batch-wise processes to more advanced innovative techniques
using aerodynamic dyeing process in order to reduce waste water, energy and chemicals.
Furthermore, nanotechnology which introduces smartness to the textile fabrics has also
improved textile appearance and quality to a reasonable extent. Call them functional
textiles, “Knowledge-based” textiles, “smart” or “intelligent” textiles, with multiple
functionalities and many desirable properties, will definitely become the textiles of the
future. This has opened new wave of opportunities for the textile and apparels industry.
However, having x-rayed some of the recent advancements in textile finishing, there are
obvious challenges in terms of cost and volume of production, cost of end product, and
environmental friendliness. There is therefore the need to continue to develop more
innovative techniques that can be as both cost effective to the producers as it is to the
consumers, yet offering warmth, comfort, durability, softness-to-feel, anti-soiling, self-
cleaning, and good appearance, for the textile / apparels and automotive industry.
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