Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig
Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig
Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig
This drill grinding jig is based on a design published in Model Engineer magazine in the mid-
1990s. I do not have a copy of the magazine, but I made some notes from the original article.
I made a number of changes to the design as originally published to make the jig easier to use
on my grinder. The notes below, and the associated drawings, are compiled from my sketches
in my notebook and measurements taken from the jig I made.
Throughout these notes reference is made to brazed construction. I MIG welded my unit
together, each joint held by a few tack welds rather than a complete unbroken bead on the
seam. It doesn’t look as pretty, but it works just as well.
No dimensions are critical except those that determine the grinding angles, and the cross holes
in the four guide blocks (parts 20) which take the drill to be sharpened – these holes must be
on the centreline of the blocks, or the symmetry of the drill point will suffer.
When matching the jig to a particular grinder it may be necessary to change the height of the
Main Body (part 6) to ensure the drill point is at approximately the same height as the
grinding wheel centre. Similarly, the ‘reach’ of the body (dimensioned as 35mm on the
drawing) was necessary to clear the base of my bench grinder – this may need to be changed
to match the grinder that the jig is being fitted to.
All sheet metal parts are made from 2mm thick material. Again, this dimension is not critical,
but if changed, the appropriate changes may be made to the relevant dimensions on parts 4,
10 etc. for cosmetic reasons.
For most parts the materials are not critical – I recall that in the original article the drill
support was made of aluminium and the various knurled screws were made of brass.
Two alternative constructions are shown for the drill end-stop. The original article described
a component fabricated from sheet (parts 13-16). I made the stop from a solid block (part 22)
secured by a screw (part 23).
The M3 x 0.5 threaded hole in the feed stop bush (part 8) was intended to take a grub screw
and a nylon or copper pad to act on the feed stop (part 9) to prevent it changing setting due
to vibration. I cut the M6 x 1 thread on the feed stop with a split die adjusted to cut the
thread a little large so it is a firm fit in the bush – further anti-vibration precautions proved to
be unnecessary and the grub screw and pad were never fitted.
After the parts are brazed together with the pilot holes aligned, the hole through all three parts
is opened out to 3.3mm and tapped M4 x 0.7
When the pivot stud hole has been tapped, a short length of M4 studding (a bolt with the head
cut off) is brazed into the tapped hole – the spelter being fed in from the part 1 side to prevent
it flowing into the thread that will take the nut/locknut.
Four guide blocks (parts 20) are specified, each with a different size cross hole. The cross
hole takes the drill to be sharpened and each block covers a range of 1mm in diameter (e.g.
the 3mm hole covers drills from 2-3mm dia. Etc.). Although four guide block screws (parts
21) are specified, only one is needed in reality as the same screw can be fitted to which ever
block is in use.
Ian Newman
[email protected]
Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig – Instruction For Use
Installation
The 8mm bar that forms the top of the base body must be at 90 degrees to the grinding wheel
surface.
Position the base body so that when the feed stop is fully unscrewed the main body is just clear of
the grinding wheel surface. Check this in both the 10 degree grinding position and the 30 degree
position.
Check the location of the jig. Read the section on Using The Jig (below) and put a few drills of
various sizes in the machine to check that there is enough movement to allow the unit to operate
– if you use a bench grinder you will find things are a bit tight under and around the grinding
wheel and some wood blocks will probably be needed to bring everything to the right height.
1) Using the smallest guide block that will fit the drill, place a guide block on the drill body at
the base of the flutes.
2) Looking onto the point of the drill, rotate the drill until the line of the cutting edges (the lips)
are at 90 degrees to the long axis of the guide block – see diagram below.
For small drills a loupe or other magnifier is a help here. As the drill is ground back, the line
of the lips rotates in a clockwise direction (down the helix of the flutes) so this position may
need to be reset if you are grinding back a particularly blunt drill.
Page 1
Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig – Instruction For Use
3) Set the grinding jig in the 30 degree position (with the angle setting lock screw located in
the lower locking guide). Place the rocker vee at the bottom of the main body over the
rocker bar that forms the top of the base body and adjust the feed stop so the jig is 2-3mm
clear of the grinding wheel surface.
4) Place the drill in the drill support groove and adjust the drill end-stop until the drill is just
touching the grinding wheel.
5) Press the drill clamp down to hold the drill in place, check that everything is clear of the
grinding wheel then start the grinder.
Holding the drill clamp firmly against the drill and pushing the rocker vee feed stop against
the end of the rocker bar, rock the drill across the grinding surface (observing all the usual
safety rules)
6) Take the drill off the jig, rotate through 180 degrees and repeat to grind the other edge.
7) Adjust the feed stop to take off a little more from the drill and repeat steps (5) and (6) until
both sides of the drill have been ground to a smooth, uniform condition.
8) Stop the wheel and reset the adjustable body to the 10 degree position.
9) Using the feed screw adjust the position of the drill so it just touches the grinding wheel
surface.
10) Start the grinder and repeat the grinding process to produce a thin 10 degree lip on each
side of the drill.
Page 2
Four Facet Drill Grinding Jig – Parts List
6
50 30 deg
21
7
M4 x 0.7
25
20
2
R 10
R7
5
92
80
7
12
30 deg
15 15
NOTE
Drill dia 2 pilot hole only.
Open to full size after assy.
dia 6
NOTE
Drill dia 2 pilot hole only.
Open to full size after assy.
115
R6
3 4 5 dia 10
All parts MS unless stated
dia 12 16
TITLE
20
dia 8
6
4
2
30 deg BODY
M3 x 0.5
SIZE DWG NO REV
M4 x 0.7 Ian Newman
A4 [email protected] 1
SCALE SHEET
1:1 1 of 2
10 8
dia 8 M3 x 0.5
6 dia 4
M6 x 1
R6 dia 6
dia 4
12
10 deg
dia 15 10
dia 5
10 deg
9
dia 3 20
2
30 deg 25
R6
R6
30 deg 2 x 5 dia
9 dia 15 med knurl
dia 4 M6 x 1
R6
R 80 20
35
40
130
124
7
80
6.8
R2
6
TITLE
30 deg
10
30
90 deg
4
16
9
7
12
90 deg Centres for 2 x self-tapping
13 screws to fit slot in part 1
28
Shape to clear
30 deg 36 grinding wheel
18
TITLE
4
9
3
15
12
dia 8
6
8
M3 x 0.5
2
6
4
M3 x 0.5
10
R2
dia 3 CS
M3 x 0.5
13 14
16
4
M3 x 0.5
10
dia 8 All parts MS unless stated
6 4
1.5
M3 x 0.5
TITLE
12
DRILL END-STOP
10 dia 12
SIZE DWG NO REV
20 Ian Newman
A4 [email protected] 1
SCALE SHEET
1:1 1 of 1
17 18
70
54
dia 8
16
70
22
2
8 6 6
25 30
45
62
TITLE
M3 x 0.5 M3 x 0.5
22
18
1
dia 2
30
dia 3, 4, 5, 6
12 10
Part (20)
Four required - one of each size cross hole.
TITLE
1
After brazing, drill through pivot hole in (1)
using hole in (2) and (3) as a guide.
Tap M4
3 1 2
Insert M4 studding to form pivot.
Step braze from part (1) side.
All parts MS
TITLE
12
11
All parts MS
TITLE
6 8
7 All parts MS
TITLE
All parts MS
TITLE
TITLE
TITLE
All parts MS
TITLE
All parts MS
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All parts MS
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All parts MS
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