2016 2-Stroke Service Manual

SERVICE MANUAL
www.arcticcat.com
ZR/XF/M 4000/6000/8000
TABLE OF CONTENTS
General Information/Foreword ............................................... 2 Arctic Power Valve (APV) System ....................................... 118
Snowmobile Identification ........................................................ 2 Exhaust Controlled Timing (ECT) System ........................... 122
Recommended Gasoline and Oil ............................................. 2 Fuel Systems ........................................................................123
Engine Break-In ....................................................................... 3 EFI System .......................................................................... 123
Drive Belt Break-In ................................................................... 3 Individual Components ........................................................ 123
Genuine Parts .......................................................................... 3 Self-Diagnostic System/Codes (4000)................................. 126
Varying Altitude Operation ....................................................... 3 Self-Diagnostic System/Codes (6000)................................. 127
Preparation For Storage........................................................... 5 Self-Diagnostic System/Codes (8000)................................. 127
Preparation After Storage ........................................................ 5 Fuel Pressure Regulator...................................................... 128
After Break-In Checkup/Checklist ............................................ 6 Throttle Body Assembly....................................................... 128
Engine Specifications............................................................... 7 Throttle Cable ...................................................................... 129
Crankshaft Runout/Repair Specifications ................................ 7 Fuel Filter (6000) ................................................................. 130
Electrical Specifications ........................................................... 9 Fuel Pump ........................................................................... 130
Arctic Power Valve (APV) System Specifications..................... 8 Troubleshooting ................................................................... 132
Drive Clutch/Driven Clutch-Related Specifications ................ 10 Oil-Injection Pump (4000/8000)........................................... 133
Drive System Specifications................................................... 10 Electric Oil Pump (6000)...................................................... 134
Drive System Components .................................................... 10 Gas Tank ............................................................................. 135
Chain Case Performance Calibrations ................................... 10 Electrical Systems ...............................................................137
Track Specifications ............................................................... 13 Ignition System .................................................................... 137
Suspension Specifications ..................................................... 13 Throttle Position Sensor ...................................................... 138
Torque Conversions ............................................................... 13 Electrical Resistance Tests.................................................. 139
Torque Specifications ............................................................. 14 Testing Electric Oil Pump (6000) ......................................... 141
Steering and Body ................................................................. 15 Testing Voltage Regulator.................................................... 141
Steering Post (ZR/XF)............................................................ 15 Chassis Control Unit (CCU)/Codes (4000) .......................... 142
Steering Post (XF HC) ........................................................... 16 Testing Oil Level Sensor ...................................................... 142
Steering Post (M) ................................................................... 19 Testing Fuel Gauge Sender ................................................. 143
Ski (ZR/XF) ............................................................................ 22 Emergency Stop Switch ...................................................... 143
Ski (XF HC/M) ........................................................................ 23 Starter Relay Solenoid......................................................... 143
Ski Wear Bar .......................................................................... 23 Fuse..................................................................................... 144
Spindle (ZR/XF) ..................................................................... 24 Ignition Switch ..................................................................... 144
Spindle (XF HC/M) ................................................................. 24 Starter Motor........................................................................ 144
Steering Tie Rod .................................................................... 25 Troubleshooting Electric Start.............................................. 149
Ski Alignment ......................................................................... 26 Ignition Timing ..................................................................... 149
A-Arms (ZR/XF) ..................................................................... 28 Brakelight Switch ................................................................. 150
A-Arms (XF HC/M)................................................................. 29 Headlight Dimmer Switch .................................................... 150
Ski Shock Absorber................................................................ 30 Testing Handlebar Warmer Elements ................................. 151
Sway Bar (ZR/XF) .................................................................. 31 Testing Thumb Warmer Element ......................................... 151
Front Bumper ......................................................................... 31 Testing Handlebar Warmer/Thumb Warmer Switch ............ 151
Seat Assembly (ZR/XF/M STD) ............................................. 31 Testing Speedometer Sensor .............................................. 152
Seat Assembly (M Sno Pro/HCR/LTD)................................... 32 Testing Shift Switch ............................................................. 152
Taillight/Brakelight Assembly.................................................. 32 Testing Servomotor/Potentiometer ...................................... 152
Rear Bumper/Snowflap .......................................................... 33 Troubleshooting Servomotor................................................ 154
Windshield/Console/ Headlight .............................................. 33 Voltage/Resistance Chart - Air Temperature (8000) ............ 156
Headlight Bulb........................................................................ 34 Voltage/Resistance Chart - Air Temperature (6000) ............ 156
Adjusting Headlight Aim ........................................................ 34 Voltage/Resistance Chart - Coolant Temperature ............... 157
Engine..................................................................................... 36 Drive Train/Track/Brake Systems .......................................158
Engine Removing/Installing - 4000 ........................................ 36 Drive Belt ............................................................................. 158
Assembly Schematic - 4000................................................... 40 Drive Clutch ......................................................................... 159
Engine Removing/Installing - 6000 ........................................ 42 Driven Clutch ....................................................................... 162
Assembly Schematic - 6000................................................... 48 Drive Clutch/Driven Clutch................................................... 168
Engine Removing/Installing - 8000 ........................................ 50 Drive Train............................................................................ 170
Assembly Schematic - 8000................................................... 56 Drive Sprockets ................................................................... 175
Engine Servicing - 4000......................................................... 58 Track Tension....................................................................... 177
Engine Servicing - 6000......................................................... 73 Track Alignment ................................................................... 178
Engine Servicing - 8000......................................................... 87 Brake System ...................................................................... 179
Troubleshooting Engine........................................................ 104 Brake Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly ............................... 183
Engine-Related Items........................................................... 106 Troubleshooting Hydraulic Brake System ............................ 185
Water Pump - 4000 .............................................................. 106 Troubleshooting Track .......................................................... 185
Water Pump - 6000 .............................................................. 109 Troubleshooting Drive Clutch/Driven Clutch ........................ 186
Water Pump - 8000 .............................................................. 112 Suspension...........................................................................187
Pressure Testing Engine ...................................................... 115 Suspension Setup Basics .................................................... 187
Liquid Cooling System ......................................................... 115 Servicing Suspension .......................................................... 193
Cooling System Schematic .................................................. 116 FOX Air Shocks ................................................................... 204
Recoil Starter ....................................................................... 117 Servicing IFP Shock ............................................................ 204
1
General Snowmobile Identification
Information/Foreword
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identifica-
tion numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
NOTE: General specifications for each 2016 Arctic is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest.
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat The decal also displays pertinent production information.
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online. The Engine Serial Number (ESN) is stamped into the
crankcase of the engine.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this section are used for clarity purposes only and are These numbers are required to complete warranty claims prop-
erly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if the engine
not designed to depict actual conditions. serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated in any way.
This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and main-
tenance information for certain Model Year 2016 Arctic
Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is designed to Recommended Gasoline
aid service personnel in service-oriented applications.
and Oil
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover
specific snowmobile components or systems and, in
addition to the standard service procedures, includes
assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions. CAUTION
When using this manual as a guide, the technician should Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
correct any given condition. used.
The service technician should become familiar with the RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will 6000/8000
assist the service technician in becoming more aware of The recommended gasoline to use is 91 octane (mini-
and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency mum).
not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves
time and labor. NOTE: If a situation arises in which 91 octane gaso-
line is not available, 87 octane gasoline can be substi-
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals dis- tuted; however, do not prolong the usage of 87 octane
play the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize gasoline as it will cause poor engine performance.
important information. The symbol ! WARNING
identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to In many areas, oxygenates are added to the gasoline.
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are
of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION acceptable gasolines.
identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmo- 4000
bile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals
with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the The recommended gasoline to use is 87 octane regular
snowmobile. The symbol  NOTE: identifies supple- unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates are added to the
mentary information worthy of particular attention. gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10%
ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs,
and illustrations were technically correct. Some photo- When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not necessary
graphs and illustrations used in this manual are used for to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will prevent the
clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and
improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred. RECOMMENDED OIL
All materials and specifications are subject to change CAUTION

without notice. Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc. The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is
either Arctic Cat C-Tec2 for the 6000 or Arctic Cat APV
Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil for the 4000/8000. These oils are
specially formulated to be used either as an injection oil
or as a pre-mix oil (for break-in) and meets all of the
lubrication requirements of the Arctic Cat snowmobile
engine.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could
cause serious engine damage.
2
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
Engine Break-In and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
4000/8000 Systems section of this manual).
The Arctic Cat engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a
short break-in period before the engine is subjected to CAUTION
heavy load conditions. Arctic Cat requires that the first Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
tankful of fuel be premixed at a 100:1 ratio in all result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
oil-injection models.
CAUTION
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1 Genuine Parts
gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil
mixture could cause spark plug fouling and excessive When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
carbon buildup. Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle is quality and correct fit.
recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations
and variations in driving speeds contribute to good
engine break-in. Varying Altitude Operation
6000
The Arctic Cat engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires
short break-in period before the engine is subjected to recalibration of drive system components. Consult the
heavy load conditions. appropriate specification sheet on Cat Tracker Online.
When the snowmobile is new (0 hours), an addition to Following are basic altitude theories for clutching,
the increased fuel and oil ratio, the ECM will limit the engine, suspension, and track.
engine to 6500 RPM for the first 18 minutes of the CLUTCHING
engine's run time. After the first 18 minutes, the rev limit
will be eliminated but a greater fuel and oil ratio will con- On a normally-aspirated engine as altitude changes,
tinue through the first two hours of engine run time. engine horsepower changes with it. As you go up in alti-
tude, the engine loses horsepower. Because of this, the
Premixing fuel and oil during the break in period is not continuously variable transmission (CVT) system needs
required. With the oil delivery control strategy of the to be calibrated to compensate for the horsepower loss.
electronic oil pump, the pump will automatically com-
pensate and deliver a richer fuel-to-oil ratio during the At altitudes above 5000 ft, the engine loses peak horse-
engine break-in period. power but will also lose horsepower at engagement
speed. For this reason, calibrating the drive system is
Some customers may choose to pre-mix the first tank and usually needed in order to attain acceptable performance.
if this is the case, a pre-mix ratio of 100:1 is acceptable. Changing drive clutch engagement speed can be done
A pre-mix ratio of 100:1 combined with the richer several ways. Some of the methods will affect other char-
fuel/oil delivered from the electronic oil pump during acteristics of CVT operation, so you must be careful what
break-in may cause additional smoke at start up and idle. you change. Drive clutch springs are the most common
way to increase engagement speed; however, by simply
CAUTION changing the cam arms to a lighter weight from the
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1 heavier sea level cam arm, you will gain some engage-
gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil ment speed.
mixture could cause spark plug fouling and excessive The driven clutch will also play a part in CVT tuning for
carbon buildup. high altitude operation. A steeper helix (torque bracket)
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle angle in the driven clutch will mean a quicker up-shift. A
(with varying throttle positions) is recommended; how- shallower angle will mean a slower up-shift. If the
ever, brief full-throttle accelerations and variations in up-shift is too quick, due to a very steep helix, RPM will
driving speeds contribute to good engine break-in. be pulled down under the peak operating RPM of the
engine (where the horsepower is) and performance will
suffer. The engine may even bog.
Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles. Drive

the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By
revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60
mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be
worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its opti-
mum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.
3
ENGINE On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
A normally aspirated engine will generate more horse- individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
power at sea level than it does at higher altitudes. The driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
reason is that the higher you go, less oxygen is available set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
for the engine to use during its combustion process. Less exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock hous-
oxygen means it needs less fuel to obtain the correct ing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
air/fuel ratio to operate properly. This is why the fuel obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
ratio has to be recalibrated. High altitude engines operate can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
as though they have a lower compression ratio. This, different spring rates are available for operator choice
along with less oxygen and less fuel, means that the and snow conditions.
engine generates less horsepower. All of these character- A limit exists as to how far you can pre-load the springs
istics will become more evident the higher the altitude. before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
SUSPENSION spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the snowmobile. On the Sno Pro models with float shocks,
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all they are individually adjustable for the terrain conditions
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail and driving style of the operator. The shocks are preset at
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination the factory (see chart) as an initial setting; however, it is
riding will all require different suspension settings. possible to “fine tune” the shocks to match the operator’s
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little spring weight, riding style, and terrain conditions.
pre-load tension as possible for powder snow riding allow- Initial Setting Chart
ing the skis to float across the snow with the least amount
of resistance. Trail riding will require more spring tension Model Front Shock Front Arm Rear Arm
(Ski) Shock Shock
to carry the varying load more effectively. Many different
settings and spring tensions to consider exist when adjust- XF/ZR Sno Pro 60 psi N/A N/A
ing for riding style and snow conditions. XF HC/M Sno Pro 95 psi N/A 130 psi
M LTD 90 psi (Main 50 psi (Main 150 psi (Main
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that Chamber) Chamber) Chamber)
produce different riding characteristics. 150 psi (Evol 125 psi (Evol 250 psi (Evol
Chamber) Chamber) Chamber)
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride ZR RR 100 psi (Main N/A N/A
and handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A Chamber) 200 psi
strong spring setting on this shock will cause the snow- (Evol Chamber)
mobile to tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder Checking and adjusting air pressure must be done at rid-
snow rather than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it ing temperature (outside) and shocks are at full extension
will work more effectively when riding on a trail. A with no weight on the shock. Also, it is advisable to
softer spring setting will allow the front of the rear sus- check air pressure when the outside temperature varies
pension to collapse much quicker and change the angle of more than 25°.
the track to the snow. A more gradual angle will tend to
raise the snowmobile up on the snow rather than digging NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pressure
into it. in the ski shocks before operating the snowmobile.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear sus- Finally, track tension should be looked at to make sure
pension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style, that it is within recommended specifications to affect the
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to efficiency of the snowmobile. On models with the torque
individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the sensing link, the track is actually tightening as the sus-
operator. pension moves through its range of motion causing the
track to sag in the middle and rub on the top part of the
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several dif- rear suspension arm.
ferent adjustments can be made to change the ride and
handling characteristics for operator preference. Located TRACK
on the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit
the amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
straps may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
riding style. The more the straps are brought up, the more power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
steering power the operator has due to the amount of ski concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
pressure. Tracks exist with lug heights from 1.0” up to 3.0” to
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspen- accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
sion is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail condi- deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
tions change, the spring pre-load may be used to decrease the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
stiffer spring pre-load, the ride of the snowmobile will snow conditions.
improve on the trail but will affect the performance in the
deep powder snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer
spring pre-load will cause the front-end to “dig” and pos-
sibly take longer for it to plane off. Several different-rate
springs are available for different riding styles and terrain
conditions.
4
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The 8. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 85 durometer. clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durom- during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
eter track works best. The softer rubber allows the track clutch and driven clutch.
to “give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather
than digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing, 9. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings and
the harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the
due to penetrating the hard snow creating more bite. rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a 10. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure all
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this track calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to
are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is made of specifications. Make sure all rivets holding the compo-
the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is designed to be nents together are tight. Replace all loose rivets.
a good all-around track for riding mostly in deep powder 11. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
snow but can climb the occasional hard snow hill. Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PRO-
PELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
12. On electric start models, disconnect the battery
Preparation For Storage cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable
first; then clean the battery posts and cables.
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly ser-
viced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration. CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant. non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle
charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil, instructions and cautions.
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile 13. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part track off the floor by blocking up the back end mak-
of the engine. ing sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
3. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, venti-
safety stand; then start the engine and allow to idle. lated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
Spray an Engine Storage Preserver into the intakes
until the engine exhaust starts to smoke heavily or 14. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
until the engine starts to drop in RPM. Turn engine the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
off. Install the intake boots. entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
CAUTION bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
Do not run the engine without the belt guard in place from dirt, dust, and rain.
and secured.
4. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth. CAUTION

Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
5. With the ignition switch in the OFF position: cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile caus-
A. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark ing corrosion.
plugs; then remove the plugs, connect them to the
leads, and ground them on the cylinder heads.
Preparation After Storage
CAUTION
Never crank the engine over without grounding the
spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or ECM may result. Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly pre-
paring it for another season will assure many miles and
B. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of SAE #30 petroleum-based hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recom-
oil into each spark plug hole and pull the recoil mends the following procedure:
starter handle slowly about 10 times.
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
C. Install the spark plugs and connect the high tension leads. of the snowmobile.
6. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic 2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following direc- system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
tions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline obstructions.
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
7. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotat-
fill plug hole. ing parts.
5
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install ALIGNMENT (OFFSET) — The alignment between
the drive belt. the drive clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory.
Normally, no adjustment is necessary; however, if prema-
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con- ture drive belt wear or poor performance is experienced,
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case the drive clutch/driven clutch alignment must be
of emergency. checked. See “Checking Offset” in the driven train sec-
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and tion in this manual.
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if neces- TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — A certain
sary. Make sure all connections are tight. amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
6. Fill the oil-injection reservoir with the recommended miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
2-cycle oil; then inspect each spark plug. Replace, 50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
gap, or clean as necessary. Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the
NOTE: After prolonged storage on the 8000, Arctic track may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail
Cat recommends one tankful of 100:1 gas/oil mixture damage.
be used in conjunction with the oil-injection system to Along with these major areas, other areas should be
ensure proper lubrication. checked and adjusted.
7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tight- The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
ened to specifications. 100 and 300 miles.
8. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate  Check drive belt deflection - drive clutch/driven
the rear suspension with an all-temperature grease. clutch alignment
9. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and  Adjust track tension and alignment
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.  Check throttle cable tension
 Check oil-injection pump adjustment (4000/8000)
10. On electric start models, charge the battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect the  Check engine idle
positive cable first. Test the electric start system.  Check coolant level
11. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, head-  Check chain case lubricant level
light, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and head-  Check lights (high/low beam, brakelight)
light aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
 Check safety switch operation
12. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
 Check engine compartment for any rubbing com-
ponents
After Break-In  Check steering hardware for tightness

Checkup/Checklist  Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
 Check brake lever travel and adjustment
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the  Grease all lubrication points
following.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflection
is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked
and is correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does
change (more so during the break-in period). This is
because the rubber engine mounts and the rubber snubber
on the torque link will all take a “set” during the first 100
miles allowing the distance between the drive clutch and
driven clutch to shorten. When this happens, the snow-
mobile will appear to have too long of a drive belt. To
add to this, the drive belt wears and stretches. This some-
times leads to a reduction in low-end performance, and if
not corrected, can cause premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be
checked according to the instructions given in the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section of this manual.
6
Engine Specifications Crankshaft Runout/Repair
Specifications
4000
ITEM Refer to the drawing; then find the letter indicating the
Engine Model Number AX50L9 specification and refer to the chart below the illustration.
Displacement 499 cc
NOTE: The proper location for checking crankshaft
Bore x Stroke 71 x 63
runout is the very edge of the straight portion of the
Compression Ratio 6.38:1
Cooling System Liquid
shaft where the oil seal makes contact. From the illus-
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm) 13° @ 2000 RPM
tration, note that three check points are called out: at
0.040” either end, out on the taper as shown, and also on the
Spark Plug (NGK) BR9EYA center bearing race. The crankshaft is still supported
Spark Plug Gap 0.028-0.031” on the outer bearings using V blocks.
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.0031-0.0041”
Piston Ring End Gap 0.008-0.016”
Cylinder Trueness Limit 0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter 0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore 1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play 0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height 0.315”
6000
ITEM
Engine Number 0962-011
Displacement 599 cc
Bore x Stroke 73.8 x 70 mm 728-144A
Compression Ratio 6.62:1 Runout D

Model A B C G and F Point
Cooling System Liquid ± 0.006 ± 0.006 ± 0.015
± 0.002
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm) 16.5° @ 2000
RPM 0.072” 4000 4.515” 2.618” 4.465” 1.062” D F
0.196” 0.196”
Spark Plug (NGK) BPR9ES
Spark Plug Gap 0.028-0.031” 8000 4.751” 2.519” 4.645” 1.181” D F
0.196” 0.196”
Piston Ring End Gap 0.012-0.0196” NOTE: Measure in from the shaft end the specified
Cylinder Trueness Limit 0.004” amount when checking runout at points D and F. When
Piston Pin Diameter 0.8659-0.8661” checking runout in the center, place indicator on center
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 0.8661-0.8665” of bearing as shown at point E. Maximum runout at
any of the three measuring points is ± 0.002”.
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002” 6000
Reed Stopper Height 0.512” NOTE: The crankshaft must be supported on the
inner bearings using V blocks.
8000
ITEM
Engine Model Number AB80L4
Displacement 794 cc
Bore x Stroke 85 x 70
Compression Ratio 6.62:1
Cooling System Liquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm) 16.5° @ 2000
RPM 0.072”
Spark Plug (NGK) BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap 0.028-0.031”
Piston Ring End Gap 0.012-0.0196”
Cylinder Trueness Limit 0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter 0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 0.8661-0.8665”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002”
Reed Stopper Height 0.512” 0747-810
7
Arctic Power Valve (APV)
System Specifications
VALVE POSITION CYCLE RPM

Mid-Open 67-7500 (Low/High Alt)
Full-Open 77-8500 (Low/High Alt)
APV CABLE LENGTH

6000/8000 36.5 mm ± 1 mm
0735-516
8
Electrical Specifications
Component Test Value + Test Connections -

Spark Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Oil Level Sensor Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
4000 (Normally Open Ignition)
Ignition Coil (Primary) 0.24-0.36 ohm orange/black orange/red
(Secondary) 6800-10,200 ohms high tension wire ground
Charge Coil (1) 8.8-13.2 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 8.8-13.2 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohm yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor 80.8-121 ohms green/white brown/green
Fuel Injector 10-14 ohms terminal terminal
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Chassis Control Unit* 9-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power) black (low power)
red/black (high power) black (high power)
Ignition Coil (Primary) 0.24-0.36 ohm black/white white/blue
(Secondary) 5040-7560 ohms high tension wire ground
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 148-222 ohms green/white brown/green
Fuel Injector 11.4-12.6 ohms terminal terminal
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise) black/red (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise) red/black (clockwise)
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier* 9-15 DC Volts red/blue black
Ignition Coil (Primary) 0.24-0.36 ohm black/white white/blue
(Secondary) 5040-7560 ohms high tension wire ground
Fuel Injector 10-14 ohms terminal terminal
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise) black/red (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise) red/black (clockwise)
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier* 9-15 DC Volts red/blue brown
9-15 AC Volts yellow brown
* Harness plugged in
The main harness connectors must be unplugged (except on the primary coil and regulator/rectifier tests), the spark
plugs removed and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter rope or
after the engine has been started.
9
Drive System
Specifications
Drive Clutch Cam Driven Torque Drive Engagement Peak Top Bottom Chain
Model Altitude Clutch
Spring Arm Spring Bracket Belt RPM RPM Gear Gear Pitch
ZR 4000 LXR 0-5000 Yellow/White 63g Black/Blue 42°/40° 0627-083 36-4000 81-8200 21T 49T 90
ZR 4000 RR 0-5000 Yellow/White 63g Black/White 44°/42° 0627-083 36-4000 81-8200 21T 49T 90
ZR 6000/XF 6000 0-5000 85/255 lb 66g 140/200 lb 48S ER3 0627-083 42-4600 81-8200 22T 48T 90
ZR 8000/XF 8000 0-5000 85/235 lb 72g 140/200 lb 66-49-.20 ER3 0627-084 36-4000 81-8200 21T 41T 86
XF 6000 High Country 0-3000 85/255 lb 66g 140/200 lb 48S ER3 0627-083 42-4600 81-8200 19T 50T 90
XF 8000 High Country 0-3000 85/235 lb 72g 140/200 lb 66-48-.20 ER3 0627-084 36-4000 81-8200 19T 50T 90
/M 6000 6-8000 85/255 lb 60g 180/240 lb 48S ER3 0627-083 42-4600 81-8200 19T 50T 90
M 8000 6-8000 85/255 lb 68g 180/240 lb 48S ER3 0627-084 42-4600 81-8200 19T 50T 90
Drive Clutch/Driven Drive System Components

Clutch-Related
Specifications A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the Quick Reference Guide. This information
ALIGNMENT BAR will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
CENTER-TO-
system.
MODEL OFFSET P/N OFFSET FLOAT
CENTER
6000/8000 0744-093 12.10” 1.500” None
4000 LXR 0644-246 12.10” 1.485” None
Chain Case Performance

Calibrations
Drive Gear Ratio Chain Engine RPM

Sprocket Ratio
6200 6400 6600 6800 7000 7200 7400 7600 7800 8000 8200 8400 8600 8800 9000
Top Btm
Vehicle Speed (mph)
7 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 52 54 56 58 59 61 63 64 66 68 69 71 73 74 76
(3.0" pitch) 21 49 0.429 90 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 74 76 78 80 82 84 86
20 46 0.435 88 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 75 77 79 81 83 85 87
23 51 0.451 92 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90
22 48 0.458 90 63 65 67 69 71 73 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92
24 50 0.480 92 66 68 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 88 90 92 94 96
21 41 0.512 86 71 73 75 78 80 82 84 87 89 91 93 96 98 100 103
21 38 0.553 84 76 79 81 84 86 89 91 93 96 98 101 103 106 108 111
20 35 0.571 82 79 81 84 87 89 92 94 97 99 102 104 107 109 112 114
23 40 0.575 86 79 82 84 87 90 92 95 97 100 102 105 108 110 113 115
22 37 0.595 84 82 85 87 90 93 95 98 101 103 106 109 111 114 116 119
24 39 0.615 86 85 88 90 93 96 99 101 104 107 110 112 115 118 121 123
23 36 0.639 84 88 91 94 97 100 102 105 108 111 114 117 119 122 125 128
24 35 0.686 84 95 98 101 104 107 110 113 116 119 122 125 128 131 134 137
10
Drive Gear
Ratio Chain Engine RPM
Sprocket Ratio
8 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 57 59 61 63 65 66 68 70 72 74 76 77 79 81 83
(2.86" 21 49 0.429 90 64 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87 89 91 94
pitch)
20 46 0.435 88 65 67 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 89 91 93 95
23 51 0.451 92 68 70 72 74 77 79 81 83 85 88 90 92 94 96 98
22 48 0.458 90 69 71 73 76 78 80 82 84 87 89 91 93 96 98 100
24 50 0.480 92 72 75 77 79 81 84 86 88 91 93 95 98 100 102 105
21 41 0.512 86 77 80 82 84 87 89 92 94 97 99 102 104 107 109 112
21 38 0.553 84 83 86 88 91 94 97 99 102 105 107 110 113 115 118 121
20 35 0.571 82 86 89 91 94 97 100 103 105 108 111 114 116 119 122 125
23 40 0.575 86 86 89 92 95 98 100 103 106 109 112 114 117 120 123 126
22 37 0.595 84 89 92 95 98 101 104 107 110 112 115 118 121 124 127 130
24 39 0.615 86 93 96 99 101 104 107 110 113 116 119 122 125 128 131 134
23 36 0.639 84 96 99 102 105 108 112 115 118 121 124 127 130 133 136 139
24 35 0.686 84 103 106 110 113 116 120 123 126 130 133 136 140 143 146 150
8 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87
(3.0" pitch) 21 49 0.429 90 68 70 72 74 76 79 81 83 85 87 89 92 94 96 98
20 46 0.435 88 69 71 73 75 77 80 82 84 86 88 91 93 95 97 100
23 51 0.451 92 71 73 76 78 80 83 85 87 89 92 94 96 99 101 103
22 48 0.458 90 72 75 77 79 82 84 86 89 91 93 96 98 100 103 105
24 50 0.480 92 76 78 81 83 85 88 90 93 95 98 100 103 105 107 110
21 41 0.512 86 81 83 86 89 91 94 96 99 102 104 107 109 112 115 117
21 38 0.553 84 87 90 93 96 98 101 104 107 110 112 115 118 121 124 127
20 35 0.571 82 90 93 96 99 102 105 108 110 113 116 119 122 125 128 131
23 40 0.575 86 91 94 97 99 102 105 108 111 114 117 120 123 126 129 132
22 37 0.595 84 94 97 100 103 106 109 112 115 118 121 124 127 130 133 136
24 39 0.615 86 97 100 103 106 110 113 116 119 122 125 128 132 135 138 141
23 36 0.639 84 101 104 107 111 114 117 120 124 127 130 133 137 140 143 146
24 35 0.686 84 108 112 115 119 122 126 129 133 136 140 143 147 150 154 157
9 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 57 58 60 62 64 66 68 69 71 73 75 77 79 80 82
(2.52" 21 49 0.429 90 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 87 89 91 93
pitch)
20 46 0.435 88 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 82 84 86 88 90 92 94
23 51 0.451 92 67 69 72 74 76 78 80 82 85 87 89 91 93 95 98
22 48 0.458 90 68 71 73 75 77 79 82 84 86 88 90 93 95 97 99
24 50 0.480 92 72 74 76 78 81 83 85 88 90 92 95 97 99 102 104
21 41 0.512 86 76 79 81 84 86 89 91 94 96 99 101 103 106 108 111
21 38 0.553 84 82 85 88 90 93 96 98 101 104 106 109 112 114 117 120
20 35 0.571 82 85 88 91 93 96 99 102 104 107 110 113 115 118 121 124
23 40 0.575 86 86 88 91 94 97 100 102 105 108 111 113 116 119 122 124
22 37 0.595 84 89 91 94 97 100 103 106 109 112 114 117 120 123 126 129
24 39 0.615 86 92 95 98 101 104 107 109 112 115 118 121 124 127 130 133
23 36 0.639 84 95 98 101 104 108 111 114 117 120 123 126 129 132 135 138
24 35 0.686 84 102 106 109 112 115 119 122 125 129 132 135 138 142 145 148
9 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 64 66 68 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87 89 91 93
(2.86" 21 49 0.429 90 73 75 77 80 82 84 87 89 91 94 96 98 101 103 105
pitch)
20 46 0.435 88 74 76 78 81 83 85 88 90 93 95 97 100 102 104 107
23 51 0.451 92 76 79 81 84 86 89 91 94 96 98 101 103 106 108 111
22 48 0.458 90 78 80 83 85 88 90 93 95 98 100 103 105 108 110 113
24 50 0.480 92 81 84 86 89 92 94 97 100 102 105 107 110 113 115 118
21 41 0.512 86 87 89 92 95 98 101 103 106 109 112 115 117 120 123 126
21 38 0.553 84 93 97 100 103 106 109 112 115 118 121 124 127 130 133 136
20 35 0.571 82 97 100 103 106 109 112 115 118 122 125 128 131 134 137 140
23 40 0.575 86 97 100 104 107 110 113 116 119 122 126 129 132 135 138 141
22 37 0.595 84 101 104 107 110 114 117 120 123 127 130 133 136 140 143 146
24 39 0.615 86 104 107 111 114 118 121 124 128 131 134 138 141 144 148 151
23 36 0.639 84 108 112 115 119 122 126 129 132 136 139 143 146 150 153 157
24 35 0.686 84 116 120 123 127 131 135 138 142 146 150 153 157 161 165 168
11
Drive Gear Ratio Chain Engine RPM
Sprocket Ratio
6200 6400 6600 6800 7000 7200 7400 7600 7800 8000 8200 8400 8600 8800 9000
Top Btm
Vehicle Speed (mph)
9 Tooth 19 50 0.380 88 67 70 72 74 76 78 80 83 85 87 89 91 94 96 98
(3.0" pitch) 21 49 0.429 90 76 79 81 83 86 88 91 93 96 98 101 103 105 108 110
20 46 0.435 88 77 80 82 85 87 90 92 95 97 100 102 105 107 110 112
23 51 0.451 92 80 83 85 88 90 93 96 98 101 103 106 108 111 114 116
22 48 0.458 90 81 84 87 89 92 94 97 100 102 105 108 110 113 115 118
24 50 0.480 92 85 88 91 93 96 99 102 104 107 110 113 115 118 121 124
21 41 0.512 86 91 94 97 100 103 106 108 111 114 117 120 123 126 129 132
21 38 0.553 84 98 101 104 108 111 114 117 120 123 127 130 133 136 139 142
20 35 0.571 82 101 105 108 111 114 118 121 124 128 131 134 137 141 144 147
23 40 0.575 86 102 105 109 112 115 118 122 125 128 132 135 138 142 145 148
22 37 0.595 84 106 109 112 116 119 123 126 129 133 136 140 143 146 150 153
24 39 0.615 86 109 113 116 120 123 127 130 134 137 141 144 148 151 155 159
23 36 0.639 84 113 117 121 124 128 132 135 139 143 146 150 154 157 161 165
24 35 0.686 84 122 126 130 133 137 141 145 149 153 157 161 165 169 173 177
10 Tooth 19 50 0.380 90 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87 89 91
(2.52" 21 49 0.429 90 71 73 76 78 80 82 85 87 89 92 94 96 98 101 103
pitch)
20 46 0.435 88 72 74 77 79 81 84 86 88 91 93 95 98 100 102 105
23 51 0.451 92 75 77 80 82 84 87 89 92 94 96 99 101 104 106 108
22 48 0.458 90 76 78 81 83 86 88 91 93 96 98 100 103 105 108 110
24 50 0.480 92 80 82 85 87 90 92 95 97 100 103 105 108 110 113 115
21 41 0.512 86 85 88 90 93 96 99 101 104 107 109 112 115 118 120 123
21 38 0.553 84 92 94 97 100 103 106 109 112 115 118 121 124 127 130 133
20 35 0.571 82 95 98 101 104 107 110 113 116 119 122 125 128 131 134 137
23 40 0.575 86 95 98 101 104 108 111 114 117 120 123 126 129 132 135 138
22 37 0.595 84 98 102 105 108 111 114 118 121 124 127 130 133 137 140 143
24 39 0.615 86 102 105 108 112 115 118 122 125 128 132 135 138 141 145 148
23 36 0.639 84 106 109 113 116 119 123 126 130 133 137 140 143 147 150 154
24 35 0.686 84 114 117 121 125 128 132 136 139 143 147 150 154 158 161 165
12
IFP SHOCK ABSORBERS
Track Specifications Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
Track Tension extended.
Model Length Lug Setup After
Height Break-in SKI
ZR LXR 129" 1" 2-2.25” 2-2.25" Collapsed Extended
Model Stroke Piston
ZR Sno Pro/El Tigre 129" 1.25" 2-2.25” 2-2.25" Length Length Depth
M SE 141”/153"/162" 2.25" 2-2.25" 2-2.25" ZR/XF 12.59” 18.38” 5.79” 7.00”
M Sno Pro/HCR 153"/162" 2.6" 2-2.25” 2-2.25" M SE 11.49” 16.33” 4.84” 6.90”
M LTD 153”/162” 3.0” 2-2.25” 2-2.25” FRONT ARM
XF Standard 137" 1.25" 2-2.25” 2-2.25"
Model Collapsed Extended Stroke Piston
XF CrossTrek 137” 1.6” 2-2.25” 2-2.25” Length Length Depth
XF HC 141" 2.25" 2-2.25” 2-2.25" ZR 8.14” 11.74” 3.59” 4.50”
XF Sno Pro 141" 1.5" 2-2.25” 2-2.25" XF/XF HC/M SE 8.55” 12.50” 3.94” 4.91”
REAR ARM
NOTE: The track tension on all models should be 20
Collapsed Extended Stroke Piston
lb @ 2 inches. Model
Length Length Depth
ZR 9.89” 13.98” 4.09” 5.70”
XF 137” 10.32” 15.12” 4.80” 6.13”
Suspension Specifications M SE 10.89” 16.05” 5.16” 6.15”
SPRINGS Torque Conversions

SKI SHOCK
Model Wire Free Rate Coils Tab
Diameter Length ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m
ZR/XF 0.312” 13.00” 95 lb/in. 10 NO
1 1.4 26 35.4 51 69.4 76 103.4
FRONT ARM
2 2.7 27 36.7 52 70.7 77 104.7
Wire Free
Model Rate Coils Tab 3 4.1 28 38.1 53 72.1 78 106.1
Diameter Length
ZR/XF 0.312” 8.25” 90/250 9.8 NO 4 5.4 29 39.4 54 73.4 79 107.4
lb/in. 5 6.8 30 40.8 55 74.8 80 108.8
M SE 0.295” 7.75” 110 lb/in. 7.0 NO 6 8.2 31 42.2 56 76.2 81 110.2
REAR ARM 7 9.5 32 43.5 57 77.5 82 111.5
Model Wire Free Rate Coils Tab 8 10.9 33 44.9 58 78.9 83 112.9
Diameter Length
M SE/XF 0.375” 13.00” 175 lb/in. 10.5 NO 9 12.2 34 46.2 59 80.2 84 114.2
REAR ARM (See Illustration Below) 10 13.6 35 47.6 60 81.6 85 115.6
Wire 11 15 36 49 61 83 86 117
Angle Coil Length
Model Diameter (B) Width (C) Coils (D) 12 16.3 37 50.3 62 84.3 87 118.3
(A)
13 17.7 38 51.7 63 85.7 88 119.7
ZR .405" 90° 3.65" 6.75 18.50”
14 19 39 53 64 87 89 121
15 20.4 40 54.4 65 88.4 90 122.4
16 21.8 41 55.8 66 89.8 91 123.8
17 23.1 42 57.1 67 91.1 92 125.1
18 24.5 43 58.5 68 92.5 93 126.5
19 25.8 44 59.8 69 93.8 94 127.8
20 27.2 45 61.2 70 95.2 95 129.2
21 28.6 46 62.6 71 96.6 96 130.6
22 29.9 47 63.9 72 97.9 97 131.9
23 31.3 48 65.3 73 99.3 98 133.3
24 32.6 49 66.6 74 100.6 99 134.6
25 34 50 68 75 102 100 136
0730-218
13
REAR SUSPENSION
Torque Specifications Item Secured to
Torque
ft-lb
M/XF 141”
NOTE: Torque specifications have the following tol- Wear Strip Rail 50 in.-lb
End Cap/Rail Cap Wheel (M) Rail 20
erances:
Mounting Block Rail 12
Torque (ft-lb) Tolerance Rear Wheel Axle Rail 34
0-15 ±20% Rear Arm Rail 20
16-39 ±15% Idler Arm Rear Arm 20
40+ ±10% Front Shock Rail 50
DRIVE SYSTEM Rear Shock Front Arm/Idler Arm 24
Torque Rail Support Rail 20
Item Secured to
ft-lb Front Shock Front Arm 24
Drive Clutch*** Engine 51 Limiter Strap Rail Support 72 in.-lb
Drive Clutch Cover Movable Sheave 120 in.-lb Rail Rail Brace 12
Ring Gear* Drive Clutch 22 Rear Tri Hub Wheel Rear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Spider (Team) Movable Sheave 250 Rear Shock Link Front Arm/Idler Arm 24
Cam Arm Pin Lock Nut Cam Arm Pin 11 Front Arm** Rail 52
Cam Arm Lock Nut (Team) Cam Arm Screw 50 in.-lb Skid Frame** Tunnel 45
Cam Arm Set Screw Cam Arm 19 in.-lb ZR/XF 137”
Driven Clutch (Team) Driven Shaft 60 Wear Strip Rail 50 in.-lb
Driven Clutch** (Arctic Cat) Driven Shaft 20 End Cap Rail 80 in.-lb
Movable Sheave* (Arctic Cat) Torque Bracket 27 Mounting Block Rail 12
Movable Sheave* (Team) Torque Bracket 120 in.-lb Rear Arm Rail 45
Chain Case (Cap Screw) Chassis 96 in.-lb Rear Arm Idler Arm 55
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw) Chassis 12 Spring Slide Rail 20
Chain Case Cover Chain Case 12 Front Arm Rail 52
Brake Caliper Chassis 25 Coupler Block Axle Rail 40
Outside Caliper Housing Inside Caliper Housing 25 Limiter Strap Rail Support 72 in.-lb
Brakeline Caliper 25 Rear Tri Hub Wheel Rear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Brakeline Master Cylinder 25 Rear Wheel Axle Rail 34
Brake Caliper Shield Cover 96 in.-lb Skid Frame** Tunnel 55**
STEERING/FRONT SUSPENSION/CHASSIS Front Shock Rail 50
Ski Spindle 35 Rail Support Rail 20
Ski Wearbar 8 Limiter Strap Front Arm 72 in.-lb
Ski Ski Handle 54 in.-lb
Handlebar Adjuster Block Post 15
Steering Support Mounting Block 8
Steering Tie Rod Link Steering Post 35
Steering Tie Rod Link Steering Arm 20
Steering Post Cap Riser Block 15
Steering Post Chassis 55
Steering Tie Rod Steering Arm 20
Tie Rod Spindle Arm 32
Steering Support Spar 20
Steering Support Upper Console 30 in.-lb
Steering Arm Chassis 8
A-Arm (Upper) (XF HC/M) Chassis 9
A-Arm (Upper) (ZR/XF) Chassis 23
A-Arm (Lower) Chassis (Front) 65
A-Arm (Lower) Chassis (Rear) 45
A-Arm (Upper) (ZR/XF) Spindle 45
A-Arm (Upper) (XF HC/M) Spindle 23
A-Arm (Lower) Spindle 45
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF) Spindle 32
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF) Chassis 32
Shock Absorber (XF HC/M) Spindle 24
Shock Absorber (XF HC/M) Chassis 24
Sway Bar Link A-Arm/Sway Bar Link 23
Sway Bar Mounting Bracket Chassis 9
* w/Green Loctite #609

** w/Blue Loctite #243
*** w/Oil
14
Steering and Body
This section has been organized into sub-sections for ser-

vicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The techni-
cian should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-
essary. XM134A
SPECIAL TOOLS 6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the exist-
ing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
cian when servicing the steering and body systems. assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
Description p/n
Handlebar Stand 5639-152
Steering Post Stand 5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.
Steering Post (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the SNO-2221A
front of the access panel. Move the panel up and off
the pin; then swing the panel all the way out and 7. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
unhinge the panel from the lower console. the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two nuts securing the top of steering post
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood. to the chassis. Account for both steering post blocks
and retaining plate.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the SNO-357
center vent and between the intake vents) and unplug 8. Carefully remove the steering post from the snow-
the connector; then move the hood slightly forward mobile.
and remove the hood.
INSTALLING
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the 1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber. steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steer- with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
ing boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
15
SNO-2218
SNO-357
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using 6. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod ball springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
joint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten to the main harness.
to 35 ft-lb.
7. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector.
8. Secure the hood with the six torx-head screws and
tighten securely.
9. Install the access panels onto the lower console; then
close the access panels and secure with the clip.
Steering Post (XF HC)
SNO-2219 REMOVING
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis 1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
using the existing push rivets. front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
XM134A
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering

support using the existing retaining plate and nuts.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
0746-800
5. Install the handlebar riser and handlebar to the top of 2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
the steering post and secure using the existing caps
and screws. Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
16
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the SNO-2226B
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the 8. Carefully remove the secondary steering post from
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and the snowmobile.
remove the hood.
9. Remove and discard the cotter pin (C) and nyloc nut
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the (B) securing the steering post to the lower steering
main harness; then remove all springs securing the support bracket. Account for a thrust washer (A).
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steer-
ing boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-2225A
10. Remove the two cap screws securing the existing

steering support (C) to the front spar tubes (B); then
remove the two cap screws securing the steering sup-
XM134A port to the side support tubes (A). Retain all cap
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the exist- screws and nuts.
ing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
SNO-2227A
11. Remove the two cap screws securing the rear portion
of the steering support to the rear spar tubes.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut securing the tie

rod link to the secondary steering post; then remove
the two machine screws and nuts securing the top of
the secondary steering post to the chassis. Account
for both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
17
SNO-740A
XM212A
12. With the telescoping steering assembly removed NOTE: Verify the bushings are properly oriented
from the snowmobile; press down on the adjusting (the seam should be centered front to back).
block until the inner snap ring is exposed. Remove 2. Install the adjusting block onto the steering post and
the snap ring. secure using the existing snap ring.
SNO-739A
SNO-739A
13. Remove the retaining ring securing the bottom side 3. Install the steering post assembly onto the front and
of the steering post; then remove the post from the rear spar tubes and into the thrust washer (A) and the
steering support. Account for two bearings. lower steering post support. Secure with a new nyloc
nut (B) and a new cotter pin (C). Tighten to 20 ft-lb
and spread the cotter pin to secure.
SNO-740A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration. SNO-2225A
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining 4. Secure the steering support to the front and rear spar
plate for cracks, bends, or wear. tubes using the existing cap screws. Tighten to 25
ft-lb.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear. 5. Install the secondary steering post into position and
secure to the steering stop bracket with a new M10
INSTALLING nut. Be sure to align the steering post ball joint
alignment tab with the steering stop bracket.
1. Insert the telescoping steering post into the steering Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
support along with two bushings; then secure the
steering post using the existing retaining ring.
18
SNO-2218 SNO-2226A
6. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using 9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod ball post to the secondary steering post using the machine
joint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
to 35 ft-lb.
10. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
11. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
secure using the existing cap and all eight screws.
Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
7. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis

using the existing push rivets.
0747-617
12. Install the upper and lower console; then install the
gas tank and seat using the existing hardware.
13. Install the hood and both access panels.
Steering Post (M)
REMOVING
XM134A
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
8. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
support using the existing retaining plate and new screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
nuts (A). Tighten to 96 in.-lb. the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
19
0746-800 SNO-2221A
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood. 7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut (B) securing the
tie rod link to the secondary steering post; then
remove the two machine screws (A) and nuts secur-
ing the top of the secondary steering post to the chas-
sis. Account for both steering post blocks and
retaining plate.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the

center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood. SNO-346A
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the 8. Carefully remove the secondary steering post from
main harness; then remove all springs securing the the snowmobile.
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber. 9. Tie the recoil rope in a loose knot to prevent the rope
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steer- from going into the recoil; then remove the recoil
ing boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two handle from the recoil rope.
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post. 10. Remove the eight machine screws and caps securing
the handlebar and riser to the fixed steering post
assembly.
XM134A
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the exist-

ing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then 0747-883
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod 11. Remove and discard the cotter pin securing the fixed
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts. steering post; then remove and discard the lock nut
but retain the thrust washer.
20
2. Secure the bottom of the steering post to the lower
steering support using existing thrust washer and
new Nyloc Nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb. Install Cotter Pin
into steering post and spread to secure.
SNO-333
12. Remove the cap screws securing the existing steering

support (C) to the spar tubes (B); then remove the
two cap screws securing the steering support to the
side support tubes (A). Retain all cap screws but dis-
card all nuts. SNO-333
3. Install the secondary steering post into position and

secure to the steering stop bracket with a new M10
nut. Be sure to align the steering post ball joint
alignment tab with the steering stop bracket.
Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-2218
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining SNO-2218
plate for cracks, bends, or wear. 4. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod ball
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for joint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
cracks or wear. to 35 ft-lb.
INSTALLING
1. Position steering post assembly over the spar tubes,
both side supports and into the lower steering sup-
port; then secure the assembly using existing cap
screws and nuts. Tighten cap screws to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
5. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis

using the existing push rivets.
SNO-334
21
Ski (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
XM134A
6. Route the recoil rope behind the lower steering sup- 3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
port and up through the new steering support and washers.
through the existing recoil handle. Tighten rope in a INSPECTING
knot.
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
7. Secure the top of the secondary steering post to the
steering support using the existing steering post 2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
blocks, machine screws and nuts. Tighten to 8 ft-lb. 3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
8. Connect the tie rod from the secondary steering post 4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
to the fixed steering post using existing machine wear and damage.
screw and new Nyloc Nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position the
ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure the
damper is properly positioned for the desired ski stance.
NOTE: On the ZR 4000 RR, there are two spacers
installed onto the spindle axle.
SNO-346
9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering

post to the secondary steering post using the machine
screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
10. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
11. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
secure using the existing cap and all eight screws.
Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
0746-796
0747-883
12. Install the hood and both access panels.
22
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle and spacers into the spindle;
then position the ski damper into the bottom of the
ski making sure the damper is properly positioned
for the desired ski stance.
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the

ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or 0748-903
regulations when adjusting ski stance. NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot 3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski. spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb. NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
NOTE: Assure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
screw is still horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
cap screw and spread the pin.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski (XF HC/M)
Ski Wear Bar
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand. The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated pri-
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the marily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle. however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
installation purposes. replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper, REMOVING
axle, spacers and washers.
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
INSPECTING suitable stand.
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration. 2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
INSTALLING
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for seated using a rubber mallet.
wear and damage.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 96
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear. in.-lb.
23
Spindle (ZR/XF) Spindle (XF HC/M)
0747-904 0749-480
REMOVING REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety 1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski. stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the 2. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spin-
shock absorber. Account for two axles. dle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spin- 3. Remove the machine screw and tri-nut securing the
dle arm. Account for the washer on the top side. upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the 4. Remove two lock nut securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, lower A-arm; then using a rubber mallet, remove the
remove the arms from the spindle. lower arm from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle. INSPECTING
INSPECTING 1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends, or imperfections.
or imperfections. 2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear. 3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear, damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set. NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult. The
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult. The existing bushings will be damaged during removal. Be
existing bushings will be damaged during removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when remov-
careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
ing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle. INSTALLING
INSTALLING 1. Install the lower A-arm into the spindle and loosely
1. Place the shock absorber into position. Secure with secure using a new lock nut.
the cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten to 32 ft-lb. 2. Secure the upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle using the existing machine screw and tri-nut. Tighten
and loosely secure with new lock nuts; then remove the machine screw to 23 ft-lb.
the snowmobile from the support stand. Tighten both 3. Loosely install a new lock nut to secure the lower
lock nuts to 45 ft-lb. A-arm to the spindle; then remove the snowmobile
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the from the support stand. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
the nuts. ball joint to seat into the spindle before tightening the
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the nut.
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb. 4. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
4. Install the ski. 32 ft-lb.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the 5. Install the ski.
left to verify the steering moves freely.
24
6. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie

rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts secur-
ing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Dis-
card both nuts. SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to

the steering post. Discard the nut.
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod

ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers SNO-351
and discard both nuts.
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is
to remove the steering arm, the reinforcement
bracket will need to be removed by drilling out the
appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-225A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
25
SNO-225A SNO-353
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering 5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35 bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
ft-lb. 20 ft-lb.
SNO-351 SNO-349
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly. Ski Alignment
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to CHECKING
20 ft-lb. NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski align-
ment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
SNO-350
alignment procedure.
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb. the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
26
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar bolts
to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to the
track), but the front measurement must never be less
(ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced. The
front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge
must not exceed the measurement from the rear wear
bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by more than
729-887B 5/32 in.
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to 8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the align-
extend from the back of the track to the front of the ment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ski.
ADJUSTING
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approxi- NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
mately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. adjust the alignment of either ski.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will
for the left side. have to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod
ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if neces-
sary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
729-887A
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the out-
side edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the 2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
ski. straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
27
0734-408
SNO-354
! WARNING 6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must sway bar link to the lower arm. Discard the nut.
never be less than the measurement taken behind the
spindle or poor handling will be experienced. Neglect-
ing to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may
cause loss of snowmobile control and possible per-
sonal injury.
A-Arms (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
XM135
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to 7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snow- the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
mobile. the arm and remove the arm.
XM134A
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid SNO-226A
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate. 8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
SNO-571
28
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bend-
ing.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws, axles, and new nyloc XM135
nuts. Tighten to 23 ft-lb. 4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle using two new
nyloc nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
5. Install the ski shock absorber.
6. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure
with the torx-head screws.
A-Arms (XF HC/M)
NOTE: Always use new lock nuts when replacing

any steering components.
SNO-571
REMOVING
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm 1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap a suitable support stand.
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear). 2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to the
chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
PC095A
3. On the ZR/XF, secure the sway bar link to the lower YM-137A
arm with the cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten 3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
to 23 ft-lb. plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the lock nut, machine screw, and tri-nut
securing the spindle to the A-arms; then using a rub-
ber mallet, remove the lower A-arm from the spin-
dle.
29
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws, axles, and new lock nuts.
0749-480A
6. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-572
2. Slide the lower arm into the steering boot; then place
the arm into position on the chassis with the existing
bushings. Secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb (front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
SNO-226A
7. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing

the upper arm to the chassis.
PC095A
4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle using one new lock
nut and one new tri nut. Tighten to the lock nut 45
ft-lb and the tri-nut to 23 ft-lb.
NOTE: If the upper A-arm ball joint is being
replaced, make sure the ball joint is threaded in as far
as it can. Do not adjust outward or damage to the
A-arm or ball joint can occur.
5. Using a 19 mm wrench, tighten the hex nut against

the upper A-arm securely making sure to keep the
SNO-572 ball joint level with the spindle.
INSPECTING 6. Install the ski shock absorber and secure using the
existing cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten to 24
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs ft-lb.
of deterioration.
7. Install the steering boot and secure using the existing
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage. push-rivets; then place the front skid plate into posi-
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bend- tion; then secure with the torx-head screws.
ing.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
Ski Shock Absorber
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
30
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber INSTALLING
to the chassis and the lower A-arm; then remove the 1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
shock absorber. Account for all mounting hardware. brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmo-
CLEANING AND INSPECTING bile. Secure with the torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb.
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage. 2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower
A-arm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bush- Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
ings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear. Front Bumper
INSTALLING
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on the REMOVING/INSTALLING
shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
1. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applica- bumper; then remove the bumper.
ble) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock 2. With the bumper in position, install all torx-head
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting. screws. Tighten securely.
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each

shock end; then place the shock absorber into posi- Seat Assembly
tion and secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts. Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb for ZR/XF (ZR/XF/M STD)
models and 24 ft-lb for XF HC and M models.
REMOVING/INSTALLING SEAT
Sway Bar (ZR/XF) NOTE: On LXR/LTD models, be sure to disconnect
the seat heater harness before removing the seat.
REMOVING 1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
SNO-261A
2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base

XM135 hold-down bracket; then install the seat and secure
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the sway bar using the cap screw.
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
SNO-227A
31
NOTE: On LXR/LTD models prior to lowering and 2. Position the seat foam into the seat cover by first
securing the seat, connect the seat heater harness con- aligning the front of the foam with the front of the
nector. seat base/cover (A); then wrap the rear of the seat
base/cover over the rear of the seat foam (B). Cover
RE MOVING CUSHION the sides of the seat foam with the seat base/cover
1. Remove the seat assembly. and secure using the Velcro strap.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING CUSHION
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. sta- SNO-1203A
ples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic 3. Remove the backing from the installation bag (p/n
base in the same areas as the original staples were 1655-841); then adhere it to the gas tank making sure
located. Position staples 1 in. apart. the bag covers the Velcro on the gas tank.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bot-
tom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Seat Assembly SNO-1206
4. Slide the rear of the seat cover with foam over the
(M Sno Pro/HCR/LTD) rear of the gas tank; then slide the four tabs into the
four holes in the lower console and secure to the tun-
nel using two self-tapping screws. Do not over
REMOVING/INSTALLING tighten.
1. Remove both torx-head screws from the side of the
seat; then remove the four tabs from the seat base NOTE: To ease the installation of the seat cover,
from the lower console. Pull back and remove the carefully pry up the rear of the gas tank so the seat
seat cover and foam. cover can easily slide around the rear of the gas tank.
Taillight/Brakelight
Assembly
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the tail-

light to the taillight support; then disconnect the tail-
light harness connector.
0747-530
32
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel with the torx-head
screw and nut.
2. Add the appropriate rivets to secure the snowflap to
the tunnel.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure 1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
the taillight to the taillight support with the two hood; then disconnect the console harness and care-
screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb. fully remove the hood assembly.
2. Remove the four screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
Rear Bumper/Snowflap 3. Remove the four screws securing the windshield
brace to the console. Disconnect the gauge; then
REMOVING BUMPER remove the windshield brace assembly.
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor to
protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering mod-
els or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models
into the lower holes in the handlebar riser (from the
left-side) and tip the snowmobile onto its left side.
CAUTION
The stand must be used when tipping the snowmobile
onto the right side. Failure to use the stand may dam-
age the oil fill neck. PC104A
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chas- 4. Disconnect the electrical accessory wires and igni-
sis; then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets tion switch.
securing the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for 5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the con-
opposite side. sole to the hood.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts 6. Lift the front of the console from the headlight
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis. assembly; then disengage the side console tabs and
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the remove the console.
bumper. Remove the bumper.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear
bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the
rear bumper using new rivets.
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP PC108
1. Drill out the four rivets securing the snowflap to the

tunnel; then remove the torx-head screw and nut.
2. Remove the snowflap.
33
Headlight Bulb
NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is fragile.

HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the head-
light bulb, the bulb assembly must first be removed
from the housing. Do not touch the glass portion of
the bulb. If the glass is touched, it must be cleaned
with a dry cloth before installing.
1. Disconnect the headlight harness connector from the
bulb; then remove the rubber grommet from the
PC106A headlight housing.
7. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws (A);
then remove the two front headlight assembly screws 2. Rotate the bulb retainer counterclockwise until it
(B). unlocks from the housing; then remove the bulb.
0746-096
PC107A
8. Remove the headlight assembly. 3. Install the bulb and retainer; then rotate the retainer
clockwise until it properly locks in place.
INSTALLING
4. Install the rubber grommet; then connect the head-
1. With the headlight assembly in position, install the light harness connector to the bulb.
front headlight assembly screws. Engage the side
headlight screws in the slots and tighten until snug. 5. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight Aim
in this sub-section).
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assem-
bly; then place the front of the console over the head- ! WARNING
light assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
Do not operate the snowmobile unless headlight beam
3. Install the two screws securing the rear of the con- is adjusted properly. An incorrectly adjusted beam will
sole to the hood. Tighten only until snug. not provide the operator the optimum amount of light.
4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position

and secure to the console with the four screws.
Tighten until snug. Adjusting Headlight Aim
5. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical acces-
sory wires and the ignition switch. The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of HIGH beam
6. With the windshield in position, secure the wind- zone is to be used for vertical aiming.
shield to the frame using the four screws. Tighten
securely. 1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the head-
light is approximately 25 ft from an aiming surface
7. Connect the console harness; then install the hood (wall or similar surface).
assembly and secure with the screws.
NOTE: There should be an “average” operating
load on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight
aim.
2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of
the headlight.
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a
horizontal mark on the aiming surface.
34
4. Make a vertical mark intersecting the horizontal
mark on the aiming surface directly in front of the
headlight.
5. Engage the brake lever lock and start the engine.
Select the headlight dimmer switch HIGH beam
position. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is when
the most intense beam is centered on the vertical
mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on the
aiming surface.
7. Adjust the headlight using the adjusting screw on the
backside of the headlight housing until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off; then disengage the 0746-807
brake lever lock.
35
Engine

essary.
Engine Removing/Installing
- 4000
0746-793A
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a 1. Carefully remove the exhaust temperature sensor
progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat from the expansion chamber.
4000 engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section 2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber
shows a complete and thorough progression; however, and resonator; then remove the expansion chamber
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those and resonator.
components needing to be addressed. Also, some compo-
nents may vary from model to model. The technician 3. Remove the cap screw from the driven clutch and
should use discretion and sound judgment. slide the driven clutch (along with the drive belt) off
the driven shaft. Account for alignment washers.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- 4. Using Drive Clutch Bolt Tool, remove the torx-head
cian when performing service procedures in this engine screw and high-collar washer securing the drive
section. clutch to the crankshaft.
5. Using Drive Clutch Puller and Drive Clutch Spanner
Description p/n Wrench, tighten the puller. Remove the drive clutch.
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool 0644-281
NOTE: If the drive clutch will not release, sharply
Drive Clutch Puller 0744-062
strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench 0644-136
clutch releases.
Hood Harness Extension 1686-659
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic 6. Remove the two screws (A) securing the heat shield
Cat Service Parts Department. to the chassis; then remove the heat shield from the
two front locating pins (B) and remove the heat
shield.
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
for the recommended puller or severe clutch or crank-
shaft damage will occur.
Removing
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note cable tie

locations securing the harness and cables to the chas-
sis.
NOTE: Prior to removing the engine, disconnect the
hood harness and remove the side access panels; then XM250A
remove the screws securing the hood to the chassis. 7. Disconnect the ECM; then remove the screws secur-
ing the right- and left-side fascia panels to the chas-
sis. Remove the panels and ECM as an assembly.
36
14. Remove the cap screws securing the MAG-side
engine mount to the engine.
15. Remove the spark plug caps from the spark plugs;
then remove the cylinder head vent hose.
XM251A
8. Remove the cap screws securing the MAG-side front

spar to the steering support and shock mount bracket;
then remove the spar.
NOTE: Take care to not drop the spar inserts and
XM255
nuts when removing the spar.
16. Disconnect the lower coolant hose from the front
9. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the heat exchanger; then remove the coolant hose from
shock mount bracket support to the shock mount the heat exchanger at the rear of the engine.
brackets; then remove the shock mount bracket sup-
port.
10. Loosen the clamps securing the intake boot to the
throttle body; then remove the intake boot.
11. Loosen the clamps securing the throttle body; then
lift up the throttle body and disconnect the coolant
hoses. Set the throttle body up and out of the way.
XM253A
17. Remove the four screws securing the PTO-side

engine mounting plate to the engine.
NOTE: Before removing the cap screws, apply a
sufficient amount of heat to the cap screws to soften
the Loctite.
XM252
12. Disconnect the harness connectors. Secure the har-
ness up and out of the way.
13. Remove the recoil starter from the engine. Secure it
out of the way.
XM257
18. Remove the cap screw and two lock nuts securing
the engine support plate to the chassis; then lift the
engine out of the engine compartment.
NOTE: If replacing the engine, make sure to remove
the engine support plate, exhaust manifold, and cool-
XM252
ant hoses for installation on the new engine.
37
10. Place the recoil starter into position and secure with
the cap screws. Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 96
Installing in.-lb.
11. Before connecting the wiring harness plug-ins, clean
NOTE: If the engine was replaced, make sure to the connectors and apply Dielectric Grease to the
install the existing engine support plate and the seal; then connect all harness connectors making
exhaust manifold on the new engine. Tighten the sure all wiring and coolant hoses are routed properly
exhaust manifold nuts to 12 ft-lb, the M6 engine sup- as noted in removing.
port plate cap screws to 25 ft-lb, and the M8 engine NOTE: Use cable ties to secure the wiring harnesses
cap screws to 35 ft-lb. Install the coolant hoses. as necessary.
1. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compart- 12. Connect the MAG-side throttle body coolant hose;
ment. then secure with a clamp.
2. Install the coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the 13. Place the throttle body assembly into position and
rear of the engine; then connect the lower coolant secure with the flange clamps; then connect the gas-
hose to the front heat exchanger. line hose to the throttle body assembly and tighten
the clamp securely.
CAUTION
When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the gas-
line hose is properly routed to avoid premature wear
and/or contact with exhaust components.
XM253A
3. Install new MAG-side engine mount “patch-lock”

cap screws. Finger-tighten only at this time.
4. Install a new “patch-lock” cap screw and new lock
nuts to secure the engine support plate to the chassis.
Finger-tighten only at this time.
XM252
5. Install four new “patch-lock” screws to secure the
PTO-side engine mounting plate. Tighten to 30 ft-lb 14. Connect the PTO-side throttle body coolant hose;
using a crisscross pattern. then secure with a clamp.
15. Fill the cooling system (see Liquid Cooling System
in the Engine-Related Items section).
16. Using the existing clamps, secure the intake flanges
to the throttle bodies.
17. With the air intake boot properly positioned on the
throttle bodies, secure with the existing clamps.
18. Install the shock mount bracket support; then using
new lock nuts, secure the support to the shock mount
brackets and tighten to 20 ft-lb.
19. Install the MAG-side front spar and secure to the
steering post and shock mount bracket using the
existing cap screws. Tighten the cap screws to 25
XM257
ft-lb.
6. Tighten the cap screw and lock nuts (from step 4) to
25 ft-lb. 20. Install the fascia panels (with ECM) and secure to
the chassis using the existing screws. Tighten
7. Install the access panel to the center belly panel and securely. Connect the ECM.
chassis and secure using the torx-head screws.
Tighten securely.
8. Tighten the cap screws (from step 3) to 25 ft-lb.
9. Install the spark plug caps; then install the cylinder
head vent hose.
38
NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure to
wipe both the crankshaft and clutch mounting tapers
clean using a clean towel.
24. Install the driven clutch on the driven shaft; then
install the drive belt (see the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section).
25. Check drive belt deflection (see the Drive
26. Place the hood into position on the front end and
secure with the screws; then install the hood harness.
Install the side access panels.
XM251A
21. Position the heat shield onto the two front locating CAUTION
pins (B); then secure it to the chassis with the two Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
screws (A). Tighten securely. nected or damage to the electrical system will result.
27. Start the engine and warm up to operating tempera-
ture; then verify that all components are functioning
properly and that coolant is circulating through the
cooling system properly.
28. After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
perature, shut the engine off; then open the access
panels and inspect for any signs of coolant, gasoline,
or oil leakage.
29. Allow the engine to cool; then check the coolant
level and add coolant as necessary. Verify the tight-
ening torque of the drive clutch.
XM250A
CAUTION
22. Install the resonator and secure with the springs; then If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major com-
place the expansion chamber and gaskets into posi- ponent was replaced, proper engine break-in proce-
tion and secure to the exhaust manifold and resonator dures must be followed (see the General Information
with the springs. section) or severe engine damage may result.
23. Place the drive clutch with drive belt into position on
the crankshaft and secure with the cap screw (threads
coated with oil) and high-collar washer. Tighten to
51 ft-lb.
CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
clutch cap screw with any kind of impact tool. Tighten
cap screw using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to
do so could result in stationary sheave damage.
39
Assembly Schematic -
4000
Torque Specification Tolerances

Torque (ft-lb) Tolerance
0-15 ±20%
16-39 ±15%
40+ ±10%
500CC1A12
40
500cc_2A_15
41
3. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven clutch and slide the driven clutch (along with
Engine Removing/Installing the drive belt) off the driven shaft. Account for the
- 6000 offset washers.
4. Using Drive Clutch Bolt Tool, remove the torx-head
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a screw and high-collar washer securing the drive
progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat clutch to the crankshaft.
6000 engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section 5. Using Drive Clutch Puller and Drive Clutch Spanner
shows a complete and thorough progression; however, Wrench, tighten the puller. Remove the drive clutch.
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those
components needing to be addressed. Also, some compo- NOTE: If the drive clutch will not release, sharply
nents may vary from model to model. The technician strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the
should use discretion and sound judgment. clutch releases.
SPECIAL TOOLS 6. Remove the two screws (A) securing the heat shield
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- to the chassis; then remove the heat shield from the
cian when performing service procedures in this engine two front locating pins (B) and remove the heat
section. shield.
Description p/n
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
shaft damage will occur. EL-001A
7. Disconnect the ECM; then remove the screws secur-

ing the right- and left-side fascia panels to the chas-
Removing sis. Remove the panels and ECM as an assembly.
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note cable tie

sis.
hood harness and remove the side access panels; then
remove the screws securing the hood to the chassis.
EL-002A
8. Remove the cap screws securing the PTO-side front

spar to the steering support and shock mount bracket;
NOTE: Take care to not drop the spar inserts and
nuts when removing the spar.
9. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the servo-
motor cable holder; then pull the cable housings
0746-793A
down and out of the servomotor.
1. Carefully remove the exhaust temperature sensor
from the expansion chamber.
2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber
and resonator; then remove the expansion chamber
and resonator.
42
EL-004A EL-005B
10. Slide each cable end out of the slot of the clutch; then 16. Remove the two small oil hoses from the oil pump
disconnect the harness from the servomotor. assembly.
11. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
shock mount bracket support to the shock mount
port.
CWI-112A
17. Loosen the clamp securing the gasline hose to the

fuel rail and remove the hose; then close-off the hose
and secure the hose up and out of the way.
! WARNING
EL-003A
12. Remove idle speed control (ISC) hoses (A) from the
top of the throttle bodies; then disconnect the ISC The hose may be under pressure; remove it slowly to
from the main harness (B). Remove the screws (C) release the pressure. Place an absorbent towel around
securing the ISC; then remove the ISC. the connection to absorb gas.
18. Remove the main harness wrap and disconnect the

six harness connectors. Secure the harness up and
out of the way.
out of the way.
20.Remove the cap screws securing the MAG-side
engine mount to the engine.
21. Remove the spark plug caps from the spark plugs;
then remove the cap screw securing the knock sen-
sor. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor con-
nector. Remove the cylinder head vent hoses.
EL-006A
13. Loosen the four clamps securing the throttle body;

then lift up the throttle body and disconnect the cool-
ant hoses. Set the throttle body up and out of the way.
14. Remove the intake boot from the chassis.
15. Remove the center oil hose from the front of the
engine.
43
CWI-092
22. Disconnect the lower coolant hose from the front

heat exchanger; then remove the coolant hose from
the heat exchanger at the rear of the engine.
CWI-093

the engine support plate, exhaust manifold, and three
coolant hoses for installation on the new engine.
Installing
NOTE: If the engine was replaced, make sure to

install the existing engine support plate and the
exhaust manifold on the new engine. Tighten the
PC141A exhaust manifold nuts to 12 ft-lb, the M6 engine sup-
port plate cap screws to 25 ft-lb, and the M8 engine
cap screws to 35 ft-lb. Install the three coolant hoses.
NOTE: On electric start models, install the starter
motor to the engine.
NOTE: If the engine is brand new, tip the crankcase
assembly up on the water pump side; then pour Arc-
tic Cat C-Tec2 engine oil into the center cavity of the
crankshaft until the oil is level with the shoulder of
the shaft (A). Install the cover using the existing
screws (threads coated with blue Loctite #243) and
tighten to 102-in.-lb.
PC178A
23. Remove the screws securing the PTO-side engine
mounting plate to the engine. Account for one flat
washer and one spring washer (on the backside of the
PTO mount).
CWI-085A
CAUTION
Failure to fill the center cavity of the crankcase assem-
bly will result in center gear damage and engine failure.
1. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compart-
ment.
44
2. Install the coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the 9. Connect the knock sensor and coolant temperature
rear of the engine; then connect the lower coolant sensor connectors; then install the spark plug caps.
hose to the front heat exchanger. Secure the coolant temperature sensor connector
with a cable tie.
10. Install the cylinder head vent hose.
in.-lb.
the connectors and apply Dielectric Grease to the
seal; then connect all harness connectors making
sure all wiring and coolant hoses are routed properly
as noted in removing. Install the main harness wrap.
NOTE: Use cable ties to secure the wiring harnesses
as necessary.
PC141A
13. Connect the oil hose to the front of the engine.
Secure using the existing clamp.
PC178A

cap screws. Finger-tighten only at this time. EL-005B
4. Install a new “patch-lock” cap screw and new lock 14. Route the two smaller oil hoses down to the oil pump
nuts to secure the engine support plate to the chassis. and secure using the clamps.
5. Install four new “patch-lock” screws to secure the
PTO-side engine mounting plate. Tighten to 30 ft-lb
using a crisscross pattern.
CWI-112A
15. Connect the MAG-side throttle body coolant hose;

then secure with a clamp.
16. Connect the TPS; then lower the throttle body
CWI-093 assembly into the engine compartment.
6. Tighten the cap screw and lock nuts (from step 4) to
25 ft-lb. 17. Place the throttle body assembly into position and
secure with the flange clamps; then connect the gas-
7. Install the access panel to the center belly panel and line hose to the fuel rail and tighten the clamp
chassis and secure using the torx-head screws. securely.
Tighten securely.
CAUTION
8. Tighten the cap screws (from step 3) to 25 ft-lb.
45
18. Connect the PTO-side throttle body coolant hose;
120.Using the existing clamps, secure the intake flanges
EL-006A
27. Install the fascia panels (with ECM) and secure to

the chassis using the existing screws. Tighten
securely. Connect the ECM.
EL-003A
23. Insert the servomotor cable ends into the slot in the
clutch; then connect the servomotor connector.
Secure the cables with the holder.
EL-002A
NOTE: At this point, secure the PDM harness to the

shock mount bracket support using a cable tie.
28. Position the heat shield onto the two front locating
pins (B); then secure it to the chassis with the two
screws (A). Tighten securely.
PC187A
24. Rotate the servomotor clockwise to remove any
slack from the cables; then install the servomotor
retaining clip. Check APV cable adjustment (see
Arctic Power Valve (APV) System in the
Engine-Related Items section).
25. Install the PTO-side front spar and secure to the
steering post and shock mount bracket using the EL-001A
existing cap screws. Tighten the cap screws to 25 29. Install the resonator and secure with the springs; then
ft-lb. place the expansion chamber and gaskets into posi-
tion and secure to the exhaust manifold and resonator
26. Secure the idle speed control (ISC) hoses (A) to the with the springs.
top of the throttle bodies using the existing clamps;
then connect the ISC to the main harness (B). Secure NOTE: When installing the manifold springs, the
the ISC to the intake boot using the existing screws long hook portion of the spring must be attached to
(C). Tighten securely. the exhaust manifold or premature spring failure will
result.
230.Install the exhaust temperature sensor into the
expansion chamber. Tighten to 34 ft-lb.
46
31. Place the drive clutch with drive belt into position on 34. Place the hood into position on the front end and
the crankshaft and secure with the cap screw (threads secure with the screws; then install the hood harness.
coated with oil) and high-collar washer. Tighten to Install the side access panels.
51 ft-lb.
CAUTION
CAUTION Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the nected or damage to the electrical system will result.
cap screw using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to 35. Start the engine and warm up to operating tempera-
do so could result in stationary sheave damage. ture; then verify that all components are functioning
properly and that coolant is circulating through the
NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure to cooling system properly.
clean using a clean towel. 36. After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
perature, shut the engine off; then open the access
32. Install the driven clutch on the driven shaft; then panels and inspect for any signs of coolant, gasoline,
install the drive belt (see the Drive or oil leakage.
33. Check drive belt deflection (see the Drive level and add coolant as necessary. Verify the tight-
Train/Track/Brake Systems section). ening torque of the drive clutch.
CAUTION
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major com-
ponent was replaced, proper engine break-in proce-
dures must be followed (see the General Information
section) or severe engine damage may result.
47
6000

0-15 ±20%
16-39 ±15%
40+ ±10%
600_14_1
48
600_14_2
49
Engine Removing/Installing
- 8000
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a

progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat
8000 (ZR/M/XF) engine. For consistency purposes, this
sub-section shows a complete and thorough progression;
however, for efficiency it may be preferable to remove
only those components needing to be addressed. Also,
some components may vary from model to model. The
technician should use discretion and sound judgment.
0746-800
SPECIAL TOOLS 1. Remove the exhaust temperature sensor from the
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- expansion chamber.
cian when performing service procedures in this engine 2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber
section. and resonator; then remove the expansion chamber
and resonator.
Description p/n
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool 0644-281 3. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven clutch and slide the driven clutch (along with
the drive belt) off the driven shaft. Account for the
offset washers.
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic 4. Using Drive Clutch Bolt Tool, remove the torx-head
Cat Service Parts Department. screw and high-collar washer securing the drive
clutch to the crankshaft.
CAUTION 5. Using Drive Clutch Puller and Drive Clutch Spanner
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller Wrench, tighten the puller. Remove the drive clutch.
NOTE: If the drive clutch will not release, sharply
shaft damage will occur. strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the
clutch releases.
Removing 6. Remove the two screws (A) securing the heat shield
to the chassis; then remove the heat shield from the
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note cable tie shield.
sis.
hood harness and remove the side access panels; then
remove the screws securing the hood to the chassis.
PC189A

ing the right and left-side fascia panels to the chassis.
Remove the panels and ECM as an assembly.
0746-793A
50
PC188A PC186A
8. Remove the caps screws securing the PTO-side front 12. Drain the engine coolant (see Liquid Cooling System
spar to the steering support and shock mount bracket; - the Engine-Related Items section).
13. Loosen the clamp securing the gasline hose to the
NOTE: Take care to not drop the spar inserts and throttle body and remove the hose; then close-off the
nuts when removing the spar. hose and secure the hose up and out of the way.
9. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the servo-
motor cable holder; then pull the cable housings
down and out of the servomotor.
PC135A
! WARNING
The hose may be under pressure; remove it slowly to
PC187A
release the pressure. Place an absorbent towel around
the connection to absorb gas.
14. Loosen the clamps securing the air intake boot to the
throttle bodies and pull the air intake boot forward
enough to gain access to the throttle body assembly.
Remove and retain the clamps.
15. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle body
assembly to the intake flanges and disconnect the
oil-injection control rod from the throttle body; then
loosen the clamps securing the throttle body coolant
hoses. Disconnect the TPS and move the throttle
body assembly forward and out of the way.
PC134
10. Slide each cable end out of the slot of the clutch; then
disconnect the connector from the servomotor.
11. Remove the lock nuts securing the shock mount
bracket support to the shock mount brackets; then
remove the shock mount bracket support.
PC138A
51
16. Remove the main harness wrap and disconnect the
six harness connectors. Secure the harness up and
out of the way.
17. Close-off the oil hose with a clamping device; then
remove the hose clamp and oil hose from the oil
pump.
PC178A
22. Remove and discard the eleven screws securing the

PTO-side engine mounting plate. Account for the
spring washer between the rear mount and the tun-
nel.
NOTE: Before removing the cap screws, apply a
PC139A
sufficient amount of heat to the cap screws to soften
the Loctite.
out of the way. 23. Remove the torx-head screw securing the front belt
guard to the skid plate; then remove the three cap
19. Remove the cap screws securing the MAG-side screws and carriage bolt nut securing the PTO-side
engine mount to the engine. Discard the cap screws. chassis support to the shock mount bracket and chas-
20. Remove the spark plug caps from the spark plugs; sis. Remove the chassis support and account for the
then disconnect the knock sensor and coolant tem- carriage bolt.
perature sensor connectors. Remove the cylinder 24. Remove the torx-head screws securing the access
head vent hose. panel to the center belly pan and chassis.
the engine support plate, exhaust manifold, three
coolant hoses, and oil injection control rod for instal-
lation on the new engine.
Installing
PC178B NOTE: If the engine was replaced, make sure to

21. Disconnect the lower coolant hose from the front install the existing engine support plate, exhaust man-
heat exchanger; then remove the coolant hose from ifold, three coolant hoses, and oil injection control rod
the heat exchanger at the rear of the engine. on the new engine. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts
to 17 ft-lb and the six engine support plate cap screws
to 25 ft-lb.
1. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compart-
ment.
2. Install the coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the
rear of the engine; then connect the lower coolant
hose to the front heat exchanger.
cap screws. Finger-tighten only at this time.
4. Install a new “patch-lock” cap screw and new lock
nuts securing the engine support plate to the chassis.
PC141A
52
5. Install the PTO-side chassis support to the shock
mount bracket and chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and carriage bolt nut. Tighten the rear chassis
cap screw to 25 ft-lb, the carriage bolt nut to 12 ft-lb,
and the front shock mount cap screws to 12 ft-lb.
6. Install the torx-head screw to secure the front belt
guard to the skid plate. Tighten securely.
7. Install eleven new “patch-lock” screws securing the
PTO-side engine mounting plate starting with the
four plate-to-engine screws. Finger-tighten only at
this time.
PC178B
in.-lb.
the connectors and apply Dielectric Grease to the
seal; then connect all harness connectors making
sure all wiring and coolant hoses are routed properly
as noted in removing. Install the main harness wrap.
NOTE: Use cable ties to secure the wiring harnesses
as necessary.
PC180A 16. Connect the oil hose to the oil pump. Secure with the
NOTE: Make sure to install the spring washer clamp.
between the rear mount and the tunnel. NOTE: After securing the oil hose to the oil pump,
8. From step 7, tighten the four front screws to 30 ft-lb, remove the bleed screw to allow any air in the
the six top rear screws to 14 ft-lb, and the lower rear hose/pump to be released.
screw to 25 ft-lb using the following sequence.
PC179A
PC180B 17. Connect the MAG-side throttle body coolant hose;

9. Tighten the cap screw and lock nuts (from step 4) to then secure with a clamp.
25 ft-lb. 18. Connect the TPS; then lower the throttle body
10. Install the access panel to the center belly and chassis assembly into the engine compartment.
and secure using the torx-head screws. Tighten 19. Place the throttle body assembly into position and
securely. secure with the flange clamps; then connect the gas-
11. Tighten the cap screws (from step 3) to 25 ft-lb. line hose to the throttle body assembly and tighten
the clamp securely.
12. Connect the knock sensor and coolant temperature
sensor connectors; then install the spark plug caps. CAUTION
Secure the coolant temperature sensor connector When installing the throttle bodies, make sure the gas-
with a cable tie.
13. Install the cylinder head vent hose. and/or contact with exhaust components.
20. Connect the PTO-side throttle body coolant hose;

53
22. Install the oil injection control rod to the throttle
body; then verify oil-injection pump synchronization
(see the Fuel Systems section).
23. Using the existing clamps, secure the intake flanges
PC189A
31. Install the resonator and secure with the springs; then
place the expansion chamber and gaskets into posi-
tion and secure to the exhaust manifold and resonator
with the springs.
NOTE: When installing the manifold springs, the
long hook portion of the spring must be attached to
the exhaust manifold or premature spring failure will
result.
32. Install the exhaust temperature sensor into the expan-
sion chamber. Tighten to 34 ft-lb.
PC186A
26. Insert the servomotor cable ends into the slot in the 33. Place the drive clutch with drive belt into position on
clutch; then connect the servomotor connector. the crankshaft and secure with the cap screw (threads
Secure the cables with the holder. coated with oil) and high-collar washer. Tighten to
51 ft-lb.
CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the
cap screw using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to
do so could result in stationary sheave damage.
clean using a clean towel.
34. Install the driven clutch on the driven shaft; then
install the drive belt (see the Drive
PC187A
27. Rotate the servomotor clockwise to remove any 35. Install the driven clutch (see Driven clutch in the
slack from the cables; then install the servomotor Drive Train/Track/Brake Systems section); then
retaining clip. Check APV cable adjustment (see check drive belt deflection (see the Drive
Arctic Power Valve (APV) System in the Train/Track/Brake Systems section).
Engine-Related Items section). 36. Place the hood into position on the front end and
28. Install the PTO-side front spar and secure to the secure with the screws; then install the hood harness.
steering post and shock mount bracket using the Install the side access panels.
existing cap screws. Tighten the cap screws to 25
ft-lb. CAUTION
Never run the engine with the hood harness discon-
29. Install the fascia panels (with ECM) and secure to
the chassis using the existing screws. Tighten nected or damage to the electrical system will result.
securely. Connect the ECM. 37. Start the engine and warm up to operating tempera-
NOTE: At this point, secure the PDM harness to the ture; then verify that all components are functioning
shock mount bracket support using a cable tie. properly and that coolant is circulating through the
cooling system properly.
30. Position the heat shield onto the two front locating
pins (B); then secure it to the chassis with the two 38. After running the engine to the proper operating tem-
screws (A). Tighten securely. perature, shut the engine off; then open the access
panels and inspect for any signs of coolant, gasoline,
or oil leakage.
54
level and add coolant as necessary. Verify the tight-
ening torque of the drive clutch.
CAUTION
If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major com-
ponent was replaced, proper engine break-in proce-
dures must be followed (see the General Information
section) or severe engine damage may result.
55
8000

0-15 ±20%
16-39 ±15%
40+ ±10%
800_12_1
56
800_12_2
57
Engine Servicing - 4000

progression for servicing of the Arctic Cat 4000 engine.
For consistency purposes, this sub-section shows a com-
plete and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it
may be preferable to disassemble only those components
needing to be addressed. Also, some components may
vary from model to model. The technician should use
discretion and sound judgment.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in FC014
this section are used for clarity purposes only and are 3. Install Flywheel Puller Insert onto the end of the
not designed to depict actual conditions. crankshaft; then using Flywheel Puller, remove the
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, flywheel from the crankshaft by tightening the puller
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec- bolt, striking the head of the puller bolt with a ham-
essary. mer, and tightening again. Repeat this procedure
until the flywheel is free. Account for the key.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the techni-
cian when performing service procedures in this engine
section.
Description p/n
Ball Hone 0644-292
Flywheel Spanner Wrench 0144-007
Flywheel Puller 0744-040
Flywheel Puller Insert 0644-179
Oil Seal Protector Tool 0644-219
Piston Pin Puller 0644-328
Surface Plate 0644-016
FC016
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit 0644-557
Vacuum Test Pump 0644-131 CAUTION
V Blocks 0644-535 To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
puller bolts more than 1/2 in. into the flywheel. Damage
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic to the coils may result.
Disassembling
1. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.

Account for flange nuts and gaskets; then remove the
clamp securing the coolant supply hose from the cyl-
inder head to the water pump. Remove the hose from
the engine.
2. Using the Flywheel Spanner Wrench to secure the
flywheel, remove the flywheel cap screw and flat
washer; then remove the three starter pulley cap
screws and remove the pulley. CM013
NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets facing
upward) on a clean bench.
4. Remove the ignition timing sensor and clamp.
58
FC022 FC026
5. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the sta- NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the
tor to the stator plate. Move the stator to the side to engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
access the Phillips-head cap screw securing the stator residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crankcase
lead wire; then remove the cap screw.
water jacket.
10. Remove the eight nuts securing the cylinders to the
crankcase; then using a rubber hammer, gently tap
the cylinders and remove from the crankcase by lift-
ing them straight up off their studs. Account for gas-
ket(s) and any alignment pins.
11. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston. Discard
the circlips.
FC018
6. Remove the stator plate from the engine.
CM149
12. Using Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pins from
both pistons.
NOTE: For proper assembly, keep all MAG-side
components and all PTO-side components separated.
FC021 Assemble them on their proper sides.
NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite applied
to the threads during assembly. Using an impact
driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of each screw
to break the Loctite loose before removal.
7. Remove the spark plugs.
8. Remove the cap screws with O-rings securing the
cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
Account for the O-rings.
9. Remove the oil-injection hose from each flange and
the crankcase nozzle.
FC029
59
16. Remove the six screws securing the water pump
CAUTION cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
Account for the O-ring gasket and the alignment
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston pin pins.
free of the piston; damage may result. Use a piston pin
puller only. 17. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump
impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft.
13. Lift the pistons clear of the connecting rods and
remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings 18. Remove either lower union cap screw securing the
(account for two washers); then remove the piston lower check valve assembly; then remove the two
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each pis- screws securing the oil-injection pump to the crank-
ton pin and bearing together as a set. case. Remove the pump, retainer, and O-ring.
CM151 FC031
19. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks and

CAUTION remove the coolant temperature sensor (if neces-
Place rubber bands over the connecting rods and sary).
around the cylinder studs to prevent the connecting
rods from damaging the crankcase.
14. Remove the intake flanges and reed valve assem-
blies.
FC033
20. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,

remove the cap screws securing the crankcase
halves.
FC030 21. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two
15. Remove the three cap screws securing the thermostat crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving the
cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermostat. heads approximately 1/4 in. out. Using a plastic ham-
mer and lifting on the ends of the crankshaft, tap on
each cap screw head until the case halves separate.
Remove the cap screws.
CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate the
crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will result.
FC032
60
FC034 FC036
22. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top half. 26. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
CAUTION 27. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner seal
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods to free of the crankcase.
drop onto the sealing surface of the bottom case half.
28. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring
23. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the from the backside of the water pump impeller.
crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
crankshaft. Account for the C-ring. Remove the
bearing retaining pins and account for the crankcase
dowel pins.
NOTE: The end bearings are not pressed onto the
crankshaft. After removing the seals, use care not to
allow the bearings to slide off the crankshaft.
24. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drivesh-
aft from the lower crankcase half. Account for the
thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft.
AN327D
Cleaning and Inspecting
CYLINDER HEAD
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
any carbon buildup from the combustion chambers
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the com-
bustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
CM159A
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
NOTE: When replacing the inner water pump seals, threads.
use the recommended Water Pump Bearing and Seal
Tool Kit only. 3. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness using a
straightedge and a feeler gauge. Acceptable warpage
25. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water must not exceed 0.002 in.
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive the
mechanical water pump seal from the crankcase. NOTE: If the warpage exceeds specification, resur-
face the cylinder head using procedures identified in
step 4.
61
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
face plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpa-
per. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in a
figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any indi-
cation of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a
bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots before
assembly by continuing to move the cylinder in a fig-
ure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic fin-
ish is attained.
CAUTION
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-
junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to
FS270 the sealing surface may result.
4. Place the cylinder head on a Surface Plate covered PISTON ASSEMBLY
with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light
pressure, move each cylinder head in a figure eight 1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove
motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a bright 2. Snap an old piston ring into two pieces; then grind
metallic finish. Correct any high spots before assem- the end of the old ring to a 45° angle and to a sharp
bly by continuing to move the cylinder head in a fig- edge. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean car-
ure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic bon from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the
finish is attained. ring with its tapered side up.
CAUTION
Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of the
wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in severe
damage to the piston.
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and

skirt areas.
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing.
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
water or honing oil.
CM018
CAUTION
the sealing surface may result.
CYLINDERS
carbon buildup from the exhaust ports.
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing, AN135
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the surface NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep to
with a Ball Hone and honing oil. correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary to
NOTE: To produce the proper 45° crosshatch pat- replace the piston.
tern, maintain a low drill RPM. If honing oil is not 5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of
available, use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
Thoroughly clean the cylinders after honing using worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.
detergent soap and hot water and dry with com-
pressed air; then immediately apply oil to the cylinder NOTE: If synthetic oil is being used, a certain
bores. If a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the amount of “blowby” may be visible under normal use.
cylinder must be replaced. CRANKCASE
NOTE: The coolant temperature sensor must be
removed for this procedure.
1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning solvent.
62
NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves, make
sure the four bearing dowel pins have been removed
and accounted for.
2. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting,
scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting.
3. Inspect all threaded areas for damaged or stripped
threads.
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bearing
movement is noted, the crankcase must be replaced.
5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
FC039
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase halves 3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
for trueness by placing each crankcase half on the them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand- bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing must
paper. Using light pressure, move each half in a fig- be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin must
ure eight motion. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any also be replaced.
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted by
a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots by
continuing to move the half in a figure eight motion
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an exces-
sive amount of aluminum, or the crankcase must be
replaced. If excessive aluminum is removed, too much
pre-load will be exerted on the crankshaft bearings
when assembled.
FC040
4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any

signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
exists, replace the gear.
NOTE: Lubricate bearings thoroughly prior to
assembly.
REMOVING/INSTALLING OUTER
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
CM160
CAUTION crankshaft. The bearings can be removed simply by
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con- sliding them off the crankshaft.
NOTE: At this point, install the coolant temperature
sensor (threads coated with white Loctite #575) and
tighten to 18 ft-lb.
CRANKSHAFT
NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, cen-
ter bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is neces-
sary, Arctic Cat recommends the crankshaft be taken
to a qualified machine shop for that service.
1. Wash the crankshaft with bearings in parts-cleaning
solvent. CM161
2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing, dam- Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any wear
age, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings. Bearings is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end.
must rotate freely and must not bind or feel rough. If
any abnormal condition is noted, replace the bearing.
63
NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bearing 5. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage with
onto the crankshaft making sure the dowel-pin hole in its clipped corner positioned to the lower right hand
the outer race is properly positioned and will align corner of the cage. Place the reed stopper assembly
with its hole and pin in the crankcase. into position and secure with the screws tightened to
10 in.-lb (± 2.2 in.-lb).
CM161
CM164A
REED VALVE ASSEMBLY
1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks
for cracks or any deterioration. Measuring Critical
Components
NOTE: Critical engine specifications chart can be

found in Section 1 of this manual.
CYLINDER HEAD VOLUME
(Squish-Gap Method)
To check the squish gap, a micrometer and two heavy
pieces of solder will be needed.
1. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
2. Simultaneously insert two pieces of solder down
CM162
through the spark plug hole and push them up against
the inner cylinder bore towards the MAG-side and
2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly in PTO-side of the cylinder.
parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry.
3. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over several
3. Inspect the reed stopper height. Using a caliper, mea- times while the solder is being held firmly in place.
sure the distance from the seat to the bottom outer tip
edge of the stopper. Measurement must not exceed 4. Remove both pieces of solder from the cylinder.
specifications. If measurement is not within specifi- Using the micrometer, measure the very end of the
cations, either bend or replace the reed stopper. squeezed solder piece. Record the reading.
NOTE: If the solder hasn’t been squeezed by the
piston, a larger piece of solder must be used. Repeat
procedure.
5. Using the opposite end of the solder pieces, insert
them down through the spark plug hole towards the
PTO-side and MAG-side of the cylinder. Push on the
solder until they contact the inner cylinder bore.
6. Pull the recoil rope and crank the engine over several
times. Remove both pieces of solder from the cylin-
der and measure the opposite squeezed ends with a
micrometer. Record reading.
NOTE: Measure from PTO to MAG-side of the pis-
CM163
ton to accurately measure the squish gap. Never mea-
4. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler sure across piston, exhaust side to opposite side, as the
gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be less piston will rock and the reading won’t be accurate.
than 0.008 in. If clearance is not within specifica-
tions, replace the reed valve. Readings may vary from side to side.
64
NOTE: Make sure the smaller reading is 0.059 in. or PISTON-RING END GAP
less. 1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion above the
CYLINDER TRUENESS exhaust port of its respective cylinder. Use the piston
to position each ring squarely in each cylinder.
1. Measure each cylinder in the three locations from
front to back and side to side for a total of six read- 2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring end
ings. gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within
0.008-0.016 in.
FC044
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference FC045
between the highest and lowest reading. Maximum PISTON PIN

trueness (out-of-roundness) must not exceed 0.004
in. 1. Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in
the center. Acceptable piston pin measurement must
be within 0.8659-0.8661 in. If any measurement var-
ies by more than 0.001 in., the piston pin and bearing
must be replaced as a set.
0725-586
PISTON SKIRT/CYLINDER CLEARANCE

1. Measure each cylinder front to back about 1 in. from
the bottom of each cylinder. IO012
2. Measure the corresponding piston skirt diameter at a CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT

point 1 cm above the piston skirt at a right angle to 1. Using the V Blocks, support the crankshaft on the
the piston-pin bore. Subtract this measurement from surface plate.
the measurement in step 1. The difference (clear-
ance) must be within 0.0031-0.0041 in. NOTE: The V blocks should support the crankshaft
on the outer bearings.
2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface plate.
Position the indicator contact point against the crank-
shaft location point A (PTO-end) from the crankshaft
end. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft
slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft runout (total
indicator reading).
AC091
65
1. Apply a thin coat of grease to the inner seal lips of
the water pump seal.
2. Using the seal driver, position the inner water pump
shaft seal onto the seal driver and gently tap the seal
down into position.
NOTE: Grease must be applied to the lips of the
inner seal before installation.
0742-727
NOTE: For runout location point specifications, see

Crankshaft Runout/Repair Specifications in Section 1
of this manual.
3. Position the indicator contact point against the crank-
shaft location point B (MAG-end) from the crank-
shaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading). MS986A
NOTE: The seal must be installed with its spring

side towards the crankshaft.
3. Install the snap ring securing the inner seal in the
crankcase.
FC046

shaft at location point C (center). Zero the indicator
and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of
crankshaft runout (total indicator reading).
MS415
5. If runout exceeds 0.002 in. at any of the checkpoints, 4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water
the crankshaft must be either straightened or pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into position
replaced. until it seats itself against its flange.
Assembling
NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is recom-

mended when assembling the engine.
NOTE: Prior to assembling the engine, use parts
cleaning solvent and compressed air and thoroughly
clean the threaded holes of the crankcase and cylin-
ders to properly tighten.
! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when drying components MS988
with compressed air. 5. Position the upper crankcase half upside-down on
two wooden blocks; then install the C-ring, the four
NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated, use bearing retaining pins, and the two crankcase dowel
Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil. pins.
66
6. Place the PTO-side crankshaft bearing into position
making sure the bearing retaining pin hole is posi-
tioned inward.
NOTE: The bearing retaining pin hole is the hole
that doesn't go entirely through the bearing case.
CM036A
NOTE: At this point if the coolant temperature sen-

sor was removed, install the sensor (threads coated
with white Loctite #575) and tighten to 18 ft-lb.
CM043A
7. Lubricate the inner lips of the crankshaft oil seals

with grease; then slide the seals onto the crankshaft
making sure the spring side of each seal faces the
center of the crankshaft.
8. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install the
crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be sure the
alignment hole in each bearing is positioned over its
respective dowel pin in the crankcase; then seat the
crankshaft.
FC071
10. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure the

crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump driveshaft
gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn to
align the crankshaft gear and pump driveshaft.
11. Install the crankcase cap screws securing the crank-
case halves.
12. Tighten the 6 mm cap screw to 96 in.-lb, the 8 mm
cap screws to 18 ft-lb, and the ten 10 mm cap screws
in two steps from 13 ft-lb to 37 ft-lb using the pattern
shown.
CM045A
NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,

place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple found in
the bearing race. Strike the tool with the palm of the
hand in either direction. If the bearing moves, it isn’t
positioned correctly and must be rotated until it drops
onto the dowel pin.
CAUTION
If the bearings are not properly seated during assembly,
the crankcase halves will not seal tightly and severe
engine damage will result.
9. Position the two center seal rings with their end gaps 0738-201
180° apart (up on one and down on the other); then
apply a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant to the entire NOTE: After tightening the crankcase, turn the
bottom half of the crankcase sealing surface. engine right side up and tighten the four MAG-hous-
ing cap screws in a crisscross pattern to 18 ft-lb.
NOTE: Secure the connecting rods with rubber
bands on the cylinder studs.
67
13. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of 16. With a new O-ring (lightly coated with oil) in place,
the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft; then install the oil-injection pump making sure the pump
place the Oil Seal Protector Tool at the end of the shaft slot and pump driven gear shaft align. Secure
shaft. with two screws (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten the two screws to 96 in.-lb.
CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when installing CAUTION
the oil pump driveshaft. Twist the driveshaft clockwise Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft is
as it enters the seal area and while pushing it through properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injection pump
the seals. to avoid damage.
17. Position the ceramic/rubber seal retainer and seal
into the back side of the water pump impeller with
the ceramic face of the seal directed out.
FS191
14. Rotate the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft

while carefully pushing it through the oil and water
pump seals until the driveshaft and crankshaft gears CM168
engage; then remove the oil seal protector tool (A)
from the end of the shaft. 18. Using a suitable tool, press the seal into position
making sure its marked side is positioned towards
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of grease
to the seal outer surface.
IO025A
15. Position the shim (A) on the oil-injection pump end

of the driveshaft; then with a new O-ring (lightly IO050A
coated with oil) in place, install the oil-injection
pump retainer (B). CAUTION
When installing the ceramic/rubber seal into the impel-
ler, never touch the ceramic part of the seal. Make sure
components are clean and free of any dirt or contami-
nants.
19. Place the impeller into position and secure with a cap
screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of the
washer is lubricated with a light coat of grease and
directed toward the impeller. Apply blue Loctite
#243 to the threads of the cap screw and tighten to
108 in.-lb.
IO026A
68
NOTE: For assembling purposes, lubricate the rub-
ber side of the washer before installing.
CAUTION
If the rubber side of the washer is not positioned toward
the impeller, a coolant leak will result.
20. Apply High-Temp Sealant to the crankcase/water

pump cover seam (A); then install the dowel pins (C)
into the crankcase.
FC078A
FC072C
NOTE: Do not allow sealant into the breather hole

(B) in the crankcase. If sealant gets into the hole, care-
fully remove before proceeding. FC073
21. Position the O-ring (lightly coated with oil) into the 23. With new gaskets, install the reed valve assemblies;
water pump cover; then install the cover. Secure with then secure the intake flanges to the crankcase.
six screws; then using the pattern shown, tighten to Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 96 in.-lb.
96 in.-lb. 24. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then place
the cylinder base gasket into position on the crank-
case.
25. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter on
the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the dome
of the piston.
FC134
726-306A
CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage.
26. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bearings;
then install the small-end bearings. Install a washer
on each side of the connecting rod.
0742-304
22. Noting the alignment dots, install the thermostat
housing with thermostat. Secure the housing with
cap screws and tighten to 96 in.-lb.
69
TZ068 CM195B
NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must seat to NOTE: Install the circlip to the inside of the piston
the needle bearing. before installing the connecting rod.
CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated before continu-
ing with assembly.
29. Rotate each piston ring until the ring ends are prop-
erly positioned on either side of the ring keeper; then
apply oil to the piston assemblies and cylinder bores.
Remove the rubber bands or hoses from the connect-
ing rods.
30. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then
using a ring compressor or fingers, compress the
FC075
rings and slide the cylinder over the piston. Remove
27. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the indi- the piston holder and seat the cylinder firmly onto
cator dot on each piston will point toward the the crankcase.
intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled piston
pin. NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
NOT force the cylinders on.
FC079A
28. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed FC076
either up or down. 31. Secure each cylinder by installing the eight nuts. DO
NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
32. Install the oil-injection hoses and secure with the
clamps; then place the lower check-valve assembly
into position and secure with the gaskets and union
cap screw. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
33. Secure the cylinders (from step 31) by tightening the
cylinder base nuts to 44 ft-lb in three steps using the
pattern shown.
70
NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine (see
Section 3).
37. Secure the stator plate to the crankcase with the
Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243) and tighten to 96 in.-lb.
0742-746
34. Install the two cylinder O-rings (lightly coated with

oil) on the top of each cylinder making sure they are
correctly positioned in the grooves.
FC021
38. Secure the ignition timing sensor with screws coated

with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to 48 in.-lb. Install
the stator assembly with wires and a grommet into
the crankcase and secure with the Allen-head screws
(coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
FC077
35. Place new O-rings (lightly coated with oil) onto each
of the head cap screws. Place four of these cap
screws into the cylinder head. Thread the spark plugs
in part way; then while holding the head above the
cylinder, carefully start and finger-tighten all four
cap screws while observing the cylinder O-rings to
make sure they remain in position. Slowly place the
head into position on top of the O-rings. Start and FC018
finger-tighten the remaining cap screws being very 39. Install the key in the crankshaft.
careful not to move the cylinder head.
40. Thread two puller bolts into the flywheel; then slide
36. From step 35 in two steps, tighten the 8 mm cap the flywheel onto the crankshaft making sure the
screws to 19 ft-lb using the appropriate pattern keyways match. Remove the puller bolts.
shown. Install the spark plugs.
NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to
wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean using a
clean towel.
41. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the flywheel
cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large flat
washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
0738-204
NOTE: After tightening the 8 mm cap screws,

tighten the two remaining 6 mm cap screws to 96
in.-lb.
71
FC080 FC081
42. Secure the starter pulley to the flywheel with three 43. Install the coolant supply hose to the water pump and
cap screws and using the spanner wrench, tighten the cylinder hose; then install the overflow hose and
cap screws evenly to 19 ft-lb; then tighten the fly- secure with the clamps.
wheel cap screw (from step 41) to 50 ft-lb.
44. Install the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and
the existing flange nuts. Tighten to 17 ft-lb.
72

SPECIAL TOOLS CWI-072
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- 3. Using Flywheel Puller or suitable substitute, remove
cian when performing service procedures in this engine the flywheel from the crankshaft by tightening the
section. puller bolt using an pneumatic gun. Account for the
key.
Description p/n
Ball Hone 0644-294 CAUTION
Flywheel Spanner Wrench 0144-007 To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
Flywheel Puller 0744-040 puller bolts more than 1/2 in. into the flywheel. Damage
Flywheel Puller Insert 0644-568 to the stator may result.
Extractor Nut (Medium) 0643-074
Oil Seal Protector Tool 0644-219 NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel
Piston Pin Puller 0644-328 magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets facing
Surface Plate 0644-016 upward) on a clean bench.
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit 0644-557 4. Remove the cap screw securing the ground wire to
V Blocks 0644-535 the crankcase.
Vacuum Test Pump 0644-131
5. Remove the screw (A) securing the stator lead wire
plate to the crankcase; then remove the screws (B)
Cat Service Parts Department. securing the timing sensors and bracket, remove the
sensors, and account for the harness grommets.
Disassembling
NOTE: When disassembling top-side components,

mark MAG-side and PTO-side components for
assembling purposes.
flywheel, remove the flywheel cap screw and
washer; then remove the cap screws securing the
recoil cup.
CWI-074A
6. Remove the screws securing the stator to the stator

plate. Route the stator lead wire out of the crankcase;
then remove the stator assembly.
7. Remove the screws securing the stator plate to the

engine; then remove the plate.
CWI-070
2. Install the Flywheel Puller Insert onto the end of the

crankshaft.
73
CWI-005A CWI-009
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note the indenta-

tion (A) of the stator plate is aligned with the harness
opening (B) in the crankcase.
CWI-010
11. Remove the four nuts securing the fuel rail to the
back of the cylinders; then remove the fuel rail and
injectors as an assembly. Account for all gaskets.
CWI-005B
NOTE: The stator plate screws have Loctite applied

to the threads during assembly. Using an impact
driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of each screw
to break the Loctite loose before removal.
8. Remove the cap screws securing the APV assemblies
to the cylinders; then remove the APV assemblies
and set them aside. Account for all four dowel pins
and make sure the pins do not fall into the engine.
CWI-011A
12. Remove the eight nuts securing the cylinders to the

crankcase; then using a soft hammer, gently tap the
cylinders and remove from the crankcase by lifting
them straight up off their studs. Account for a gasket
and alignment pins.
CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the piston
to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.
CWI-006A
9. Disconnect the coolant hose from the back of the cyl-

inder head.
cylinder head (in the order shown); then separate the
head from the cylinders. Account for the O-rings on
top of the cylinders.
74
CWI-012 CWI-015
13. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the 16. Remove the screws securing the intake flanges.
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis- Remove the intake manifolds and reed valve assem-
ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston. blies.
CWI-013A CWI-020
14. Using Piston Pin Puller and medium Extractor Nut,

remove the piston pins from both pistons.
Assemble them on their proper sides.
CWI-081
17. Remove the four screws securing the thermostat cap;
then remove the cap, gasket, and thermostat.
CWI-014
CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston pin
free of the piston; damage may result. Use a piston-pin
puller only.
remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings; then
remove the piston rings. Keep each piston with its
rings; keep each piston pin and bearing together as a
set. CWI-017
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the

bypass/check valve is directed up.
75
CWI-018A CWI-075A
18. Remove the seven screws securing the water pump

cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
pins.
CWI-023A
21. Tip the crankcase assembly up onto the water pump

side; then remove the black torx-screw from the bot-
tom of the crankcase and tip down and drain the
injection oil from the center cavity into a container.
CWI-016A
19. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.

Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind the
cap screw. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
CWI-071A
22. With the bottom side up on two support blocks,

halves.
CWI-082
20. Prior to turning the engine upside down, remove the NOTE: Remove the cap screws in order from #10 to
two crankcase torx screws (A) from the water pump #1. The numbers are embossed next to each cap
side of the engine; then remove the two cap screws screw.
(B) from the magneto housing.
76
NOTE: When replacing the inner water pump seals,
use the recommended Water Pump Bearing and Seal
Tool Kit only.
27. Place the lower crankcase on the bench with the
water pump side down. Using the long seal driver,
drive the mechanical water pump seal from the
crankcase.
CWI-024
23. With all screws removed, carefully separate the

crankcase halves in locations shown below only.
FC036
28. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
securing the inner seal in the crankcase.
29. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner seal
free of the crankcase.
30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring
from the backside of the water pump impeller.
CWI-076
CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves (sealing surface)
to separate the crankcase. Damage to the sealing sur-
faces will result.
24. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top half.
CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods to
25. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the AN327D
crankcase and slide the crankshaft bearings and oil
seals off the crankshaft. Account for the C-ring (A).
Remove the bearing retaining pins (B) and account Cleaning and Inspecting
for the crankcase dowel pins (C).
CYLINDER HEAD
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the com-
bustion chambers or the sealing surfaces.
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged
threads.
NOTE: If warpage is suspected, have a qualified
machine shop inspect and repair if necessary.
CWI-027A
26. Remove the water pump driveshaft from the lower

crankcase half. Account for the thrust washer on the
outer end of the shaft.
77
3. Place the cylinder head on a Surface Plate covered 4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bearing
pressure, move each cylinder head in a figure eight movement is noted, the crankcase must be replaced.
motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication
of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a bright 5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear.
metallic finish. Correct any high spots before assem- 6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase halves
bly by continuing to move the cylinder head in a fig- for trueness by placing each crankcase half on the
ure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
finish is attained. paper. Using light pressure, move each half in a fig-
ure eight motion. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any
CAUTION indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted by
Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con- a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots by
junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to continuing to move the half in a figure eight motion
the sealing surface may result. until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.
CYLINDERS NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an exces-
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove replaced. If excessive aluminum is removed, too much
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent. when assembled.
3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing, CAUTION
and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the surface
with the Ball Hone and honing oil. Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-
NOTE: To produce the proper 45° crosshatch pat- the sealing surface may result.
tern, maintain a low drill RPM. If honing oil is not
available, use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil. CRANKSHAFT
Thoroughly clean the cylinders after honing using NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, cen-
detergent soap and hot water and dry with com- ter bearings, or water pump drive gear is necessary,
pressed air; then immediately apply oil to the cylinder Arctic Cat recommends the crankshaft be taken to a
bores. If a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the qualified crankshaft rebuild shop for that service.
cylinder must be replaced or replated.
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur- solvent.
per. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in a 2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing, dam-
figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any indi- age, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings. Bearings
cation of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a must rotate freely and must not bind or feel rough. If
bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots before any abnormal condition is noted, replace the bearing.
ish is attained.
CAUTION
PISTON
the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
CRANKCASE
CWI-060
1. Scrape of any residual silicone from both the top and
bottom crankcase halves making sure not to damage 3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
the sealing surface; then wash the crankcase halves them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
in parts-cleaning solvent. bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing must
be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin must
NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves, make also be replaced.
and accounted for.
threads.
78
REED VALVE ASSEMBLY
1. Carefully pry the reed assemblies from the intake
manifold and inspect the reed valves for cracks or
any deterioration; then remove the screws securing
the reeds.
CWI-058
4. Visually inspect the springs to make sure they are in

proper location on the seals.
CWI-084
2. To assemble, place the reed retaining plate (with the

lip facing outward) into position and secure with the
screws tightened to 10 in.-lb (± 2.2 in.-lb).
NOTE: When installing the outer reed valves, be
sure the clipped edge matches the clipped edge of the
reed retaining plate.
CWI-083A
5. Inspect the water pump drive gear for any signs of

worn or chipped teeth. If either condition exists,
replace the gear.
assembly.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
crankshaft. The bearings can be removed simply by CWI-110
sliding them off the crankshaft. 3. Install the reed valve assemblies into the intake man-
ifold by installing the top and bottom sides of the
Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any wear reeds first; then press down making sure the reeds
is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end. are installed flush with the intake manifold.
NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bearing
onto the crankshaft making sure the retaining pin
hole (A) in the outer race of the bearing is properly
positioned and will align with the retaining pin (B) in
the crankcase.
CWI-055
IO019B
79
2. Position a bore gauge between the micrometer points
and move it from top to bottom and side to side to
find zero; then adjust the gauge to zero.
CWI-056
Measuring Critical CWI-090
Components
CYLINDER TRUENESS
1. Measure each cylinder in locations from front to
back and side to side top and bottom of the cylinder
for a total of four readings.
CWI-089
3. Place the bore gauge in the cylinder and measure

each cylinder in locations from front to back and side
to side top and bottom of the cylinder for a total of
four readings. The difference (clearance) must be
within 0.0031-0.0041 in.
CWI-077
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference

between the highest and lowest reading. Maximum
in.
1. Measure the piston skirt diameter 10 mm from the
bottom of the piston (just below the slot). Once the
measurement is final, lock the micrometer.
CWI-087
CWI-080
CWI-086
80
PISTON PIN NOTE: Prior to assembling the engine, use parts
Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in the cleaning solvent and compressed air and thoroughly
center. Acceptable piston pin measurement must be clean the threaded holes of the crankcase and cylin-
within 0.8659-0.8661 in. If any measurement varies by ders to properly tighten.
more than 0.001 in., the piston pin and bearing must be
replaced as a set. ! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when drying components
with compressed air.
NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated, use

Arctic Cat C-Tec2 engine oil.
down into position.
CWI-079
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
1. Using the V Blocks, support the crankshaft on the
surface plate.
NOTE: The V blocks should support the crankshaft
on the middle bearings.
Position the indicator contact point against the crank-
shaft location points C and D. Zero the indicator and
rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of
MS986A

crankcase.
4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water
pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into position
until it seats itself against its flange.
5. Secure the upper crankcase half upside-down on a
suitable support; then install the C-ring (A), the four
bearing retaining pins (B), and the two crankcase
dowel pins (C).
0747-810
3. If runout exceeds any of the checkpoints, the crank-

shaft must be either straightened or replaced.
Assembling
CWI-027A
6. Apply a thin coat of Loctite 5900 Sealant to the

NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is recom- entire bottom half of the crankcase sealing surface.
81
11. Tighten cap screws (1-10) in two steps using the pat-
tern shown. First tighten to 15 ft-lb; then tighten to
33 ft-lb.
CWI-067
7. Place the crankshaft end bearings into position mak-

ing sure the bearing retaining pin holes are posi-
tioned inward.
742-198A
12. Tighten screw 11 to 20 ft-lb; then turn the engine
right-side up and tighten screws 12-15 in two steps to
102 in.-lb.
13. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of
the water pump shaft; then place the Oil Seal Protec-
tor Tool at the end of the shaft.
CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when installing
CWI-030A
the oil pump driveshaft. Twist the driveshaft clockwise
as it enters the seal area and while pushing it through
the seals.
with grease; then slide the seals onto the crankshaft.
9. Install the crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. 14. Rotate the water pump shaft while carefully pushing
Be sure the alignment hole in each bearing is posi- it through the oil and water pump seals until the
tioned over its respective retaining pin in the crank- driveshaft and crankshaft gears engage; then remove
case; then seat the crankshaft. the oil seal protector tool (A) from the end of the
shaft.
IO019A
NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position, IO025A
place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple found in 15. Place the impeller into position and secure with the
the bearing race. Strike the tool with the palm of the cap screw (threads coated with blue Loctite #243)
hand in either direction. If the bearing moves, it isn’t and washers. Be sure the rubber side of the washer is
positioned correctly and must be rotated until it drops lubricated with a light coat of grease and directed
onto the retaining pin. toward the impeller. Tighten to 102 in.-lb.
CAUTION CAUTION
The rubber side of the washer securing the impeller
must be positioned toward the impeller. If installed
incorrectly, a coolant leak will result and engine damage
may occur.
10. Assemble the crankcase halves; then install the
crankcase cap screws securing the crankcase halves.
82
16. Apply a thin film of low-temp grease to the water
pump cover O-ring; then position the O-ring into the
water pump cover. With the alignment pins in place,
install the cover. Secure with the screws using a
crisscross pattern. Tighten to 102 in.-lb.
CWI-020
20. With the bypass/check valve of the thermostat

directed to the 12 o’clock position, install the ther-
mostat and housing; then in a crisscross pattern,
tighten the screws to 102 in.-lb.
CWI-016A
17. Tip the crankcase assembly up on the water pump
side; then pour Arctic Cat C-Tec2 engine oil into the
center cavity of the crankshaft until the oil is level
with the shoulder of the shaft (A).
CWI-018A
CWI-085A
CAUTION
Failure to fill the center cavity of the crankcase assem-
bly will result in center gear damage and engine failure.
NOTE: After the center cavity is filled with engine
oil, be sure to install the hose with loom onto the
upper crankcase half or engine oil will leak from that
area.
18. Position the shim on the retainer end of the pump CWI-064
shaft; then install the retainer with a new O-ring. 21. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then place
Tighten screws to 102 in.-lb. the cylinder base gasket into position on the crank-
case.
19. Secure the reed valve assemblies and intake mani-
folds to the engine case using the existing screws. 22. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letters
Tighten in two steps to 115 in.-lb in order from the on the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the
letter A to the letter F (embossed on the manifold). dome of the piston.
83
29. Install the cylinder O-rings (lightly coated with oil)
on the top of each cylinder making sure they are cor-
rectly positioned in the grooves.
CWI-078A
CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in
engine damage. CWI-010
30. Place new O-rings (lightly coated with oil) onto each
23. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bearings; of the head cap screws. Place four of these cap
then install the small-end bearings. screws (from opposite end of each other) into the
24. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the indi- cylinder head. Thread the spark plugs in part way;
cator arrow on each piston will point toward the then while holding the head above the cylinder, care-
exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled piston pin. fully start and finger-tighten all four cap screws
while observing the cylinder O-rings to make sure
NOTE: The indicator arrow is found on the piston they remain in position. Slowly place the head into
dome. position on top of the O-rings.
25. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed NOTE: To install the remaining cap screws, the
either up or down. spark plugs must be removed.
CAUTION 31. Start and finger-tighten the cap screws being very
careful not to move the cylinder head; then tighten
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated before continu- the cap screws in two steps to 13 ft-lb then 25 ft-lb
ing with assembly. using the pattern shown.
0747-890
NOTE: At this point, install the spark plugs; then

install the knock sensor. Tighten the sensor to 18 ft-lb.
CWI-063
27. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or 32. Install the coolant inlet hose to the cylinder head and
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and water pump; then secure using the clamp.
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then 33. Install the fuel rail assembly into the back of the cyl-
using a ring compressor or fingers, compress the inders making sure the gaskets are in place; then
rings and slide the cylinder over the piston. Remove secure the rail using new nylon nuts. Tighten to 102
the piston holder and seat the cylinder firmly onto in.-lb.
the crankcase.
NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO
NOT force the pistons into the cylinders.
28. Install each cylinder with the eight existing nuts;
then secure the cylinders by tightening the cylinder
base nuts to 15 ft-lb then to 32 ft-lb in a crisscross
pattern.
84
36. Route the stator harness through the opening in the
crankcase; then secure the stator to the stator plate
with the screws (coated with blue Loctite #243).
37. Secure the upper ignition timing sensor with cap
screws (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
80 in.-lb; then install the wiring grommet into the
notch of the crankcase.
38. Secure the lower ignition timing sensor and bracket
with two screws (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten to 80 in.-lb; then install the grommet. With
the stator harness properly positioned, install the
CWI-008
plate and cap screw (coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten to 80 in.-lb.
NOTE: At this time if the coolant temperature sen-
sor was removed, install the sensor (threads coated
with thread sealant) and tighten to 18 ft-lb.
NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine (see
the Engine-Related Items section).
34. With the raised edge of the valve aligned with the
channel of the cylinder, slide the APV assemblies
into position in the cylinders; then secure with cap
screws. Tighten to 102 in.-lb.
NOTE: The APV gaskets will align with the contour
of the cylinder and APV assemblies when installed
correctly. Be sure valves move freely after installing
by pulling on the valve cable.
CWI-074
39. Install the key in the crankshaft (if removed).

NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to
wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean using a
clean, lint-free towel.
40. Place the recoil cup in position on the flywheel and
visually center; then secure the cup with three cap
screws and tighten only until snug. While holding
the cup, slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft mak-
ing sure the keyways match.
41. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the flywheel
cap screw with the large flat washer; then fin-
CWI-073 ger-tighten only at this time into the crankshaft.
42. Secure the recoil cup while using the spanner wrench
and tighten the three cap screws (from step 39)
evenly to 18 ft-lb.
43. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel cap
screw (from step 40) to 50 ft-lb.
CWI-068

screws (coated with blue Loctite #243) and tightened
to 102 in.-lb.
85
45. If the knock sensor was removed, secure it to the cyl-
inder head using the existing cap screw. Tighten to
18 ft-lb.
46. After installing the engine, bleed the oil lines using
the Oil Bleeding Procedure included with the CATT
II Tool.
CWI-070
44. Install the exhaust manifold with new gaskets and

secure with the eight nuts. Tighten the nuts in a criss-
cross pattern to 12 ft-lb.
86

SPECIAL TOOLS CM139
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- 2. Install the Flywheel Puller Insert onto the end of the
cian when performing service procedures in this engine crankshaft.
section.
Description p/n
Ball Hone 0644-294
Flywheel Spanner Wrench 0144-007
Flywheel Puller 0744-040
Flywheel Puller Insert 0644-568
Extractor Nut (Medium) 0643-074
Oil Seal Protector Tool 0644-219
Piston Pin Puller 0644-328
Surface Plate 0644-016
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit 0644-557
V Blocks 0644-535
Vacuum Test Pump 0644-131 IO013
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic 3. Using Flywheel Puller or suitable substitute, remove
Cat Service Parts Department. the flywheel from the crankshaft by tightening the
puller bolt, striking the head of the puller bolt with a
hammer, and tightening again. Repeat this procedure
until the flywheel is free. Account for the key.
Disassembling
CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, do not thread
NOTE: When disassembling top-side components, puller bolts more than 1/2 in. into the flywheel. Damage
mark MAG-side and PTO-side components for to the coils may result.
assembling purposes.
flywheel, remove the flywheel cap screw and
washer; then remove the three starter clutch cap
screws and remove the clutch.
CM140
NOTE: To ensure the cleanliness of the flywheel

magnets, place the flywheel (with the magnets facing
upward) on a clean bench.
CM138 4. Remove the cap screw securing the ground wire to
the crankcase.
87
CM142A CM145D
5. Remove the Allen-head cap screw (A) securing the NOTE: For assembling purposes, note the indenta-
stator lead wire plate to the crankcase; then remove tion (A) of the stator plate is aligned with the harness
the Allen-head cap screws (B) securing the timing opening (B) in the crankcase.
sensors, remove the sensors, and account for the har-
ness grommets.
CM145C
CM141C NOTE: The stator plate screws had Loctite applied

6. Remove the Allen-head cap screws securing the sta- to the threads during assembly. Using an impact
tor to the stator plate. Route the stator lead wire out driver, apply a sharp blow to the head of each screw
of the crankcase; then remove the stator assembly. to break the Loctite loose before removal.
8. Remove the cap screws securing the APV assemblies
to the cylinders; then remove the APV assemblies
and set them aside.
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the APV
exhaust valves and gaskets are directional and
marked (M) for magneto cylinder and (P) for PTO
cylinder.
CM143A
7. Remove the cap screws securing the stator plate to

the engine; then remove the plate.
XM024A
88
XM017 XM018
9. Remove the spark plugs. 12. Remove the PTO-side piston-pin circlip from the
PTO-side piston; then remove the MAG-side pis-
NOTE: At this point, remove the knock sensor and ton-pin circlip from the MAG-side piston.
lock plate from the cylinder head by bending the lock
plate tabs down and unthreading the sensor.
cylinder head; then separate from the cylinders.
Account for the O-rings.
XM020A
13. Using Piston Pin Puller and medium Extractor Nut,

remove the piston pins from both pistons.
XM022
Assemble them on their proper sides.
NOTE: When removing the cylinders, place the
engine on its intake flanges on a drain tray to allow
residual coolant to drain from the cylinder/crankcase
water jacket.
11. Remove the four nuts and four cap screws securing
the cylinders to the crankcase; then using a soft ham-
mer, gently tap the cylinders and remove from the
crankcase by lifting them straight up off their studs.
Account for gasket(s) and alignment pins.
CAUTION
When removing a cylinder, be sure to support the piston
to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.
CM150
CAUTION
DO NOT use any type of punch to drive the piston pin
free of the piston; damage may result. Use a piston-pin
puller only.
remove the small-end connecting-rod bearings
(account for two washers); then remove the piston
rings. Keep each piston with its rings; keep each pis-
ton pin and bearing together as a set.
89
CM151 IO015A
NOTE: Place a suitable length of rubber hose 17. Remove the four cap screws securing the thermostat
around the connecting rods to prevent the connecting cap; then remove the cap, gasket, and thermostat.
rods from damaging the crankcase.
15. Disconnect the intake flange oil lines from the oil
pump; then remove the cap screws securing the
intake flanges. Remove the intake flanges and reed
valve assemblies.
IO017A
NOTE: For assembling purposes, note that the posi-

tioning of the bypass/check valve is directed up.
IO014
16. Remove the lower union cap screw securing the

lower check valve assembly to the crankcase; then
remove the two screws securing the oil-injection
pump to the crankcase. Remove the pump, retainer,
and O-ring and account for the two gaskets from the
lower union.
CM157A

cover to the crankcase and remove the cover.
pins.
CM153A
90
CAUTION
DO NOT drive any tool between halves to separate the
crankcase. Damage to the sealing surfaces will result.
CM156A
19. Remove the cap screw securing the water pump

impeller; then slide the impeller free of the shaft.
Account for the washer and gasket.
CM158
24. Lift the bottom half of the crankcase off the top half.
CAUTION
Care must be taken to not allow the connecting rods to
25. Lift the crankshaft free from the top half of the
crankcase and slide the crankshaft oil seals off the
crankshaft. Account for the C-ring (A). Remove the
bearing retaining pins (B) and account for the crank-
case dowel pins (C).
IO018A
20. Prior to turning the engine upside down, remove the

two crankcase cap screws (A) from the water pump
side of the engine; then remove the two cap screws
(B) from the magneto housing.
IO023A

crankshaft. After removing the seals, use care not to
allow the bearings to slide off the crankshaft.
26. Remove the oil-injection pump/water pump drivesh-
742-198B
aft from the lower crankcase half. Account for the
21. Turn the engine upside down on support blocks, cut thrust washer on the outer end of the shaft.
the cable tie, and remove the coolant temperature
sensor switch.
22. With its bottom side up on two support blocks,
halves.
23. Separate the crankcase halves by installing two
crankcase cap screws in opposite corners leaving the
heads approximately 1/4 in. out. Using a plastic ham-
mer and lifting on the ends of the crankshaft, tap on
each cap screw head until the case halves separate.
Remove the cap screws.
CM159A
91
NOTE: When replacing the inner water pump seals, 3. Place the cylinder head on a Surface Plate covered
use the recommended Water Pump Bearing and Seal with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light
Tool Kit only. pressure, move each cylinder head in a figure eight
motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication
27. Place the crankcase on the bench with the water of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a bright
pump side down. Using the long seal driver, drive the metallic finish. Correct any high spots before assem-
mechanical water pump seal from the crankcase. bly by continuing to move the cylinder head in a fig-
ure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic
finish is attained.
CAUTION
CYLINDERS
2. Wash the cylinders in parts-cleaning solvent.
FC036 3. Inspect the cylinders for pitting, scoring, scuffing,
28. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the surface
securing the inner seal in the crankcase. with the Ball Hone and honing oil.
29. Using the hooked end of the tool, pull the inner seal NOTE: To produce the proper 45° crosshatch pat-
free of the crankcase. tern, maintain a low drill RPM. If honing oil is not
available, use a lightweight, petroleum-based oil.
30. Using the hooked end of the tool, pry the seal ring Thoroughly clean the cylinders after honing using
from the backside of the water pump impeller. detergent soap and hot water and dry with com-
pressed air; then immediately apply oil to the cylinder
bores. If a bore is severely damaged or gouged, the
cylinder must be replaced.
4. Place the head surface of each cylinder on the sur-
per. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in a
figure eight motion. Inspect the surface for any indi-
cation of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a
bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots before
ish is attained.
AN327D CAUTION
Cleaning and Inspecting junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to
PISTON ASSEMBLY
CYLINDER HEAD
1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove the carbon buildup from the dome of each piston.
being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the com- 2. Snap an old piston ring into two pieces; then grind
bustion chambers or the sealing surfaces. the end of the old ring to a 45° angle and to a sharp
edge. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean car-
2. Inspect the spark-plug holes for any damaged bon from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the
threads. ring with its tapered side up.
NOTE: If warpage is suspected, have a qualified
machine shop inspect and repair if necessary.
CAUTION
Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of the
wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in severe
damage to the piston.
3. Inspect each piston for cracks in the piston pin and

skirt areas.
92
4. Inspect each piston for seizure marks or scuffing. CRANKSHAFT
Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and
NOTE: If any servicing of the connecting rods, cen-
water or honing oil.
ter bearings, or oil-injection pump drive gear is neces-
NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep to sary, Arctic Cat recommends the crankshaft be taken
correct with the sandpaper, it will be necessary to to a qualified machine shop for that service.
replace the piston.
5. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of solvent.
excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates
worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder. 2. Inspect the bearings for wear, scoring, scuffing, dam-
age, or discoloration. Rotate the bearings. Bearings
NOTE: If synthetic oil is being used, a certain must rotate freely and must not bind or feel rough. If
amount of “blowby” may be visible under normal use. any abnormal condition is noted, replace the bearing.
CRANKCASE
1. Wash the crankcase halves in parts-cleaning solvent.
NOTE: Before washing the crankcase halves, make
and accounted for.
threads.
4. Inspect the bearing areas for cracks or excessive
bearing movement. If evidence of excessive bearing FC039
movement is noted, the crankcase must be replaced. 3. Inspect the connecting-rod bearings by rotating
5. Inspect the bearing dowel pins for wear. them. The bearings must rotate freely and must not
bind or feel rough. If a connecting-rod bearing must
6. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase halves be replaced, the connecting rod and crank pin must
for trueness by placing each crankcase half on the also be replaced.
surface plate covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sand-
paper. Using light pressure, move each half in a fig-
ure eight motion. Inspect the sealing surfaces for any
indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted by
a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots by
continuing to move the half in a figure eight motion
until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to remove an exces-
replaced. If excessive aluminum is removed, too much
when assembled.
FC040
4. Inspect the oil-injection pump drive gear for any

signs of worn or chipped teeth. If either condition
exists, replace the gear.
assembly.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
crankshaft. The bearings can be removed simply by
CM160
sliding them off the crankshaft.
CAUTION
93
4. To assemble, place the reed valves on the cage with
its clipped corner positioned to the lower right hand
corner of the cage. Place the reed stopper assembly
into position and secure with the screws tightened to
10 in.-lb (± 2.2 in.-lb).
CM161
Inspect the crankshaft bearing area for wear. If any wear

is noted on either end, replace the crankshaft end.
NOTE: Install the bearings by sliding each bearing
onto the crankshaft making sure the retaining pin
hole (A) in the outer race of the bearing is properly XM228A
positioned and will align with the retaining pin (B) in

the crankcase.
Measuring Critical
Components
CYLINDER TRUENESS
1. Measure each cylinder in locations from front to
back and side to side top and bottom of the cylinder
for a total of four readings.
IO019B
REED VALVE ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the reed valves, stoppers, and valve blocks
for cracks or any deterioration.
CWI-077
2. The trueness (out-of-roundness) is the difference
between the highest and lowest reading. Maximum
in.
1. Measure the piston skirt diameter 10 mm from the
bottom of the piston. Once the measurement is final,
lock the micrometer.
XM227
2. Wash the reed valves, stopper, and cage assembly in 2. Position a bore gauge between the micrometer points
parts-cleaning solvent and blow dry. and move it from top to bottom and side to side to
find zero; then adjust the gauge to zero.
3. Inspect the reed-to-seat clearance. Using a feeler
gauge, measure the clearance. Clearance must be less
than 0.008 in. If clearance is not within specifica-
tions, replace the reed valve.
94
PISTON PIN
Measure the piston pin diameter at each end and in the
center. Acceptable piston pin measurement must be
within 0.8659-0.8661 in. If any measurement varies by
more than 0.001 in., the piston pin and bearing must be
replaced as a set.
CWI-090
CWI-079
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
1. Using the V Blocks, support the crankshaft on the
surface plate.
NOTE: The V blocks should support the crankshaft
on the outer bearings.
CWI-089
3. Place the bore gauge in the cylinder and measure Position the indicator contact point against the crank-
each cylinder in locations from front to back and side shaft location point A (PTO-end) from the crankshaft
to side top and bottom of the cylinder for a total of end. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft
four readings. The difference (clearance) must be slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft runout (total
within 0.0031-0.0041 in. indicator reading).
CWI-087
0742-727
NOTE: For runout location point specifications, see

Crankshaft Runout/Repair Specifications in the Gen-
eral Information section of this manual.
shaft location point B (MAG-end) from the crank-
shaft end. Zero the indicator and rotate the
crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of crankshaft
runout (total indicator reading).
CWI-086
95
crankcase.
FC046

shaft at location point C (center). Zero the indicator
and rotate the crankshaft slowly. Note the amount of
5. If runout exceeds 0.002 in. at any of the checkpoints, MS415
the crankshaft must be either straightened or 4. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water
replaced. pump seal. Gently tap the seal down into position
until it seats itself against its flange.
Assembling
NOTE: The use of new gaskets and seals is recom-

NOTE: Prior to assembling the engine, use parts
cleaning solvent and compressed air and thoroughly
clean the threaded holes of the crankcase and cylin-
ders to properly tighten.
! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when drying components MS988
with compressed air.
5. Secure the upper crankcase half upside-down on a
NOTE: When the use of a lubricant is indicated, use suitable support; then install the C-ring (A), the four
Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil. bearing retaining pins (B), and the two crankcase
dowel pins (C).
down into position.
IO023A
6. Place the crankshaft end bearings into position mak-

ing sure the bearing retaining pin hole is positioned
inward.
MS986A
96
CM043A CM036A

with grease; then slide the seals onto the crankshaft
making sure the spring side of each seal faces
inward.
8. Apply oil to the crankshaft bearings; then install the
crankshaft into the upper crankcase half. Be sure the
alignment hole in each bearing is positioned over its
respective retaining pin in the crankcase; then seat
the crankshaft.
CM166
10. Assemble the crankcase halves making sure the

crankshaft gear and oil-injection pump driveshaft
gears mesh. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn to
align the crankshaft gear and pump driveshaft.
11. Install the crankcase cap screws securing the crank-
case halves.
12. Tighten cap screws (1-10) in two steps from 13 ft-lb
to 31 ft-lb using the pattern shown.
IO019A
NOTE: To check the bearing for proper position,

place the point of a sharp tool into the dimple found in
the bearing race. Strike the tool with the palm of the
hand in either direction. If the bearing moves, it isn’t
positioned correctly and must be rotated until it drops
onto the retaining pin.
CAUTION
9. Position the two center seal rings with their end gaps
180° apart (up on one and down on the other); then 742-198A
apply a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant to the entire 13. Tighten cap screw (11) to 96 in.-lb; then turn the
bottom half of the crankcase sealing surface. engine right-side up and tighten cap screws (12-15)
in two steps to 25 ft-lb.
97
14. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of 17. With the new O-ring (lightly coated with oil) in
the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft; then place, install the oil-injection pump making sure the
place the Oil Seal Protector Tool at the end of the pump shaft slot (A) and pump driven gear shaft (B)
shaft. align. Secure with two screws (coated with blue Loc-
tite #243). Tighten the two screws to 96 in.-lb.
CAUTION
Be very careful not to damage the seals when installing
the oil pump driveshaft. Twist the driveshaft clockwise
as it enters the seal area and while pushing it through
the seals.
CM167A
CAUTION
Be sure the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft is
properly aligned with the slot of the oil-injection pump.
The pump will be damaged if these two components are
FS191
not aligned.
15. Rotate the oil-injection pump/water pump driveshaft
while carefully pushing it through the oil and water 18. Place the lower union assembly (with new gaskets)
pump seals until the driveshaft and crankshaft gears into position and secure with the gaskets and union
engage; then remove the oil seal protector tool (A) cap screw. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
from the end of the shaft.
CM153A
IO025A
16. Position the shim (A) on the oil-injection pump end

of the driveshaft; then install the oil-injection pump
retainer (B) with a new O-ring.
IO020A
CAUTION
Always use new gaskets and assure that a gasket is in
place on each side of the union prior to securing the
IO026A union cap screw to the crankcase.
98
19. With new gaskets, install the reed valve assemblies 23. Place the impeller into position and secure with a cap
and intake flanges using the pattern shown. Tighten screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of the
to 96 in.-lb; then secure the intake flange oil hoses to washer is lubricated with a light coat of grease and
the oil pump and secure with the clamps. directed toward the impeller. Apply blue Loctite
108 in.-lb.
IO021A
IO018A
CAUTION
The rubber side of the washer securing the impeller
must be positioned toward the impeller. If installed
incorrectly, a coolant leak will result.
24. Apply High-Temp Sealant to the crankcase/water
pump cover seam; then install the dowel pins into the
crankcase.
25. Apply a thin film of low-temp grease to the water
pump cover O-ring; then position the O-ring into the
water pump cover. With the alignment pins in place,
IO022A
install the cover. Secure with the screws using the
20. Install the coolant temperature sensor (threads coated pattern shown. Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
with white Loctite #575) and tighten to 18 ft-lb; then
secure the sensor wire to the sensor with a cable tie.
21. Position the ceramic/rubber seal into the back side of
the water pump impeller with the ceramic face of the
seal directed out.
0742-257
26. With the bypass valve of the thermostat directed to

the 12 o’clock position, install the thermostat and
housing; then in a crisscross pattern, tighten the cap
screws to 96 in.-lb.
CM168
22. Using a suitable tool, press the seal into position

making sure its marked side is positioned towards
the rubber seal cup; then apply a thin coat of grease
to the seal outer surface.
CAUTION
When installing the ceramic/rubber seal into the impel-
ler, never touch the ceramic part of the seal. Make sure
components are clean and free of any dirt or contami-
nants.
99
CM157A TZ068
NOTE: The shoulder side of the washer must seat to

the needle bearing.
CM155A
27. Install the dowel pins into the crankcase; then place
the cylinder base gasket into position on the crank-
case. CM172A
30. Place each piston over the connecting rod so the indi-
28. Install the piston rings on each piston so the letter on cator dot on each piston will point toward the
the top (inclined surface) of each ring faces the dome intake/exhaust ports; then secure with an oiled piston
of the piston. pin.
NOTE: The indicator dot is found on the piston
dome.
726-306A
CAUTION
Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in XM019A
engine damage.
31. Install the new circlips so the open end is directed
29. Apply oil to the connecting-rod small end bearings; either up or down.
then install the small-end bearings. Install a washer
on each side of the connecting rod. CAUTION
Make sure the circlips are firmly seated before continu-
ing with assembly.
100
XM021A XM022
33. In turn on each cylinder, place a piston holder (or 36. Place new O-rings (lightly coated with oil) onto each
suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt and of the head cap screws. Place four of these cap
square the piston in respect to the crankcase; then screws (from opposite end of each other) into the
using a ring compressor or fingers, compress the cylinder head. Thread the spark plugs in part way;
rings and slide the cylinder over the piston. Remove then while holding the head above the cylinder, care-
the piston holder and seat the cylinder firmly onto fully start and finger-tighten all four cap screws
the crankcase. while observing the cylinder O-rings to make sure
they remain in position. Slowly place the head into
NOTE: The cylinders should slide on easily. DO position on top of the O-rings.
NOT force the pistons into the cylinders.
XM016
XM018
34. Install each cylinder with the four nuts and four new NOTE: To install the remaining cap screws, the
cap screws; then secure the cylinders by tightening spark plugs must be removed.
the cylinder base nuts and cap screws to 44 ft-lb in 37. Start and finger-tighten the remaining cap screws
three steps using the pattern shown. being very careful not to move the cylinder head;
then tighten the cap screws in two steps to 25 ft-lb
using the pattern shown.
0738-206
NOTE: Always use new cap screws when installing

the cylinders. 0742-200
35. Install the two cylinder O-rings (lightly coated with NOTE: At this point, install the spark plugs; then
oil) on the top of each cylinder making sure they are install the knock sensor with the new lock plate,
correctly positioned in the grooves. tighten the sensor to 17 ft-lb, and bend the lock plate
tabs up.
101
NOTE: At this point, pressure test the engine (see 42. Secure the lower ignition timing sensor with two cap
the Engine-Related Items section). screws (A) (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten
to 48 in.-lb; then install the grommet. With the stator
38. With the raised edge of the valve aligned with the harness properly positioned, install the plate and cap
channel of the cylinder, slide the APV assemblies screw (B) (coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten to
into position in the cylinders; then secure with cap 48 in.-lb.
screws. Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
CM177A
XM017
43. Install the key in the crankshaft.
Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue Loctite 44. Place the starter clutch in position on the flywheel;
#243) and tightened to 96 in.-lb. then secure the starter clutch with three cap screws
and tighten only until snug. While holding the starter
40. Route the stator harness through the opening in the clutch, slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft making
crankcase; then secure the stator to the stator plate sure the keyways match.
with the Allen-head cap screws (coated with blue
Loctite #243). Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
CM180
CM143A NOTE: Before installing the flywheel, be sure to

41. Secure the upper ignition timing sensor (white wipe the crankshaft and flywheel tapers clean using a
dot/connector) with cap screws (coated with blue clean, lint-free towel.
Loctite #243). Tighten to 48 in.-lb; then install the 45. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the flywheel
wiring grommet into the notch of the crankcase. cap screw; then finger-tighten with a large flat
washer. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
IO049A
FC080
102
46. Secure the starter clutch while using the spanner NOTE: At this time if the coolant temperature sen-
wrench and tighten the three cap screws (from step sor was removed, install the sensor (threads coated
45) evenly to 19 ft-lb. with blue Loctite #243) and tighten to 18 ft-lb.
49. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone seal-
ant to each exhaust port; then install the exhaust gas-
kets.
50. Apply a thin coat of High-Temp Sealant to the mat-
ing surfaces of the exhaust manifold; then install the
exhaust manifold and secure with the eight nuts.
Tighten the nuts using the pattern shown to 17 ft-lb.
FC081
47. Using the spanner wrench, tighten the flywheel cap

screw (from step 45) to 50 ft-lb.
48. Install the coolant inlet hose to the cylinder head and
water pump; then tighten the hose clamps securely.
0742-292
XM023
103
Troubleshooting Engine
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Spark at Spark Plugs)

Condition Remedy
1. Key in the OFF position 1. Turn key to the ON position
2. Emergency stop switch in DOWN position — 2. Move switch to UP position — replace throttle control
malfunctioning
3. Ground connections dirty — loose 3. Check all ground connections — clean and tight
4. RPS switch malfunctioning 4. Fully seat cable in control housing — Adjust throttle cable
tension — replace faulty switch
5. Wiring harness shorting — disconnected 5. Repair — replace — connect wiring harness
6. Spark plugs fouled — damaged 6. Clean — replace spark plugs
7. Spark-plug caps damaged — leaking — shorting 7. Replace spark-plug caps
8. High tension leads/coil loose — grounded — faulty 8. Service — replace high tension leads/coil
9. Ignition timing sensor faulty 9. Replace sensor
10. Stator faulty 10. Replace stator
11. ECM/CCU faulty 11. Replace ECM/CCU
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (No Fuel at Cylinders)
Condition Remedy
1. Fuel tank empty 1. Fill tank
2. Fuel hose broken — pinched 2. Replace hose
3. Fuel tank vent hose — obstructed 3. Remove obstruction — replace vent — hose
4. Pick-up valve(s) obstructed — damaged 4. Remove obstruction — replace pick-up valve(s)
5. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 5. Replace regulator — hose
6. Fuel filter plugged 6. Replace fuel filter
7. Fuel pump faulty 7. Service — replace fuel pump — connections — wires
9. Injector (s) stuck closed 9. Replace injector(s)
10. Primary compression low 10. Repair — replace damaged — worn engine components
11. Stator faulty (Fuel pump or injector coil) 11. Replace stator
12. ECM faulty 12. Replace ECM
Problem: Engine Does Not Start (Fuel Does Not Ignite)
Condition Remedy
1. ECM/CCU trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Spark absent 2. Check for spark — see No Spark at Spark Plugs sub-section
3. Replace gasoline
3. Fuel contaminated 4. Service engine
4. Primary compression low 5. Service engine
5. Secondary compression low 6. Clear engine (hold throttle full-open)
6. Engine flooded 7. Repair — replace problem sensor
7. Sensor(s) faulty
Problem: Engine Does Not Idle
Condition Remedy
2. Throttle position sensor idle adjustments incorrect 2. Adjust idle RPM to specifications
3. ISC faulty 3. Replace ISC
4. Reed petals chipped or broken 4. Replace reed petals
5. Injector(s) faulty 5. Replace injector(s)
6. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 6. Replace regulator
7. Air-intake silencer obstructed 7. Clean air-intake silencer
8. Exhaust obstructed 8. Remove obstruction
9. Primary compression low 9. Service Engine
10. Secondary compression low 10. Service Engine
104
Problem: Engine Loses Power or Runs on One Cylinder
Condition Remedy
1. Sensor faulty 1. Check ECM for trouble code — repair — replace sensor
2. Spark plug fouled 2. Replace spark plugs
3. Injector faulty 3. Replace injector
4. External coil faulty 4. Service — replace coil
5. Fuel tank vent — hose obstructed 5. Service — replace vent hose
6. APV faulty 6. Inspect Cables — set cable tension — clean valves
7. Fuel pressure regulator faulty 7. Replace regulator
8. Pick-up valve(s) obstructed — out of position 8. Replace — relocate pick-up valve(s)
9. Secondary compression low 9. Service engine
10. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjust incorrectly 10. Replace — bleed —adjust oil-injection pump
11. Throttle bodies out of synchronization 11. Replace throttle bodies from a similar engine — if problem is
corrected, replace the original assembly
Problem: Engine Backfires
Condition Remedy
2. RPS switch adjusted incorrectly 2. Adjust throttle cable tension — service spring
3. Spark-plug caps damaged — leaking — shorting 3. Replace spark-plug caps
4. Spark plugs fouled - damaged 4. Clean — replace spark plugs
5. High tension leads/coil shorting or reversed 5. Service — replace high tension leads/coil
6. Coil Primary wires reversed 6. Reverse wires
7. Fuel mixture lean 7. Repair fuel regulator — injector(s)
8. Ignition Timing Sensor(s) faulty 8. Check Wiring-Replace sensor(s)
9. Oil-injection pump malfunctioning — adjusted incorrectly 9. Replace — bleed — adjust oil-injection pump
11. Engine overheated 11. Refill coolant — repair Thermostat — repair Water Pump
Assembly
12. Knock Control system 12. Replace fuel with higher octane
13. ECM/CCU faulty — damaged 13. Replace ECM/CCU
Problem: Engine Four-Cycles (Floods Excessively)
Condition Remedy
1. ECM trouble code 1. Service — replace problem component
2. Fuel pressure too high 2. Replace regulator — hose
3. Fuel tank vent — hose obstructed 3. Service — replace vent hose
4. Injector(s) faulty 4. Replace injector(s)
5. Sensor(s) faulty 5. Repair — replace problem sensor(s)
7. Air silencer obstructed 7. Remove obstruction
Problem: Engine Stops Suddenly
Condition Remedy
1. Fuel tank empty 1. Fill tank
2. Emergency stop switch in DOWN position 2. Move switch to UP position
4. Spark absent 4. See No Spark at Spark Plugs sub-section
5. Stator faulty 5. Replace stator
7. Fuel filter(s) obstructed 7. Replace filter(s)
8. Fuel pressure low 8. Replace regulator — hose
9. Fuel pump faulty 9. Service — replace fuel pump
10. Fuel tank vent hose obstructed 10. Service vent hose
11. Fuel hose obstructed — broken — pinched 11. Remove obstruction — repair — replace fuel hose
12. RPS switch malfunctioning 12. Replace throttle control — adjust throttle cable tension
13. Engine seized 13. Service engine
14. ECM/CCU faulty 14. Replace ECM/CCU
Problem: Engine Fails to Stop (Continues to Run, Even with All Switches Off)
Condition Remedy
1. ECM internal 1. Replace ECM
2. Wiring harness disconnected — faulty harness 2. Repair — replace — connect wiring harness
3. Key switch faulty 3. Replace key switch
4. Emergency stop switch faulty 4. Replace E-stop control housing
105
Engine-Related Items

essary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
cian when servicing the engine-related items.
Description p/n FC118
Blind-Hole Bearing Puller 0644-500 2. Remove either lower union cap screw securing the
Coolant Cap 0644-156 lower check valve assembly. Remove the two cap
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench 0644-136 screws securing the oil-injection pump and pull the
Valve and Spring Retainer Tool 0644-448 oil pump from the engine. Leave the pump hose and
Fan Spanner Wrench 0644-340 cable attached.
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit 0644-557 3. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.
Oil Seal Protector Tool 0644-219 Account for the rubber washer behind the cap screw.
Engine Leak-Down Test Kit 0644-522
Vacuum Test Pump 0644-131
Oil Filter Wrench 0644-551

Water Pump - 4000
DISASSEMBLING
FC119
NOTE: The engine must be removed for this proce- 4. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
dure (see Section 2).
NOTE: A bleed hole is located in the crankcase
beneath the water pump housing. If any signs of cool-
ant leakage from the bleed hole exist, the water pump
seals must be replaced. When servicing the water
pump, use Water Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit.
FC120
NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,

start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.
FS237A
1. Remove the cap screws securing the water pump

cover; then remove the cover and account for the
O-ring seal.
106
FC121 FC124
5. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft 8. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull the
from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account for inner seal free of the crankcase.
the thrust washer located between the retainer and
shaft flange. ASSEMBLING
1. Wipe the seal area clean using a clean rag.
FC122
6. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump FC125
mechanical seal from the crankcase. 2. Position the inner seal onto the seal driver (spring
side towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into posi-
tion.
FC123
7. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring

securing the inner seal in the crankcase. FC126A
3. Using a small screwdriver, apply a light coat of

grease to the inner seal lips.
107
FC127 FS233A
4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap ring 7. Position the shim on the oil pump end of the shaft;
securing the inner seal in the crankcase. then with the O-ring installed on the retainer, install
the oil-injection pump retainer.
FC128
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water FC130A
pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal down into NOTE: For assembling purposes, always use new
position until it seats itself against its flange. O-rings lubricated with oil on the oil injection pump
and retainer.
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,
align the pump with the shaft; then install the pump.
Secure with two cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten the two cap screws to 96 in.-lb.
FC129
6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface of

the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install Oil
Seal Protector Tool at the end of the shaft. Twist the
shaft while pushing it through the oil and water
pump seals; then remove the tool.
FC131A
NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured, assure

that the oil hoses from the pump and intake flanges
are routed properly.
9. Place the lower check valve into position; then
secure with the washer gaskets and union cap screw.
Tighten securely.
NOTE: When installing the lower check valve,
assure that the washer gaskets are installed on each
side of the valve.
108
FS235A FC072B
10. Place the impeller into position and secure with a cap 12. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then
screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of the install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using
washer is lubricated with a fine coat of oil and the pattern shown, tighten to 96 in.-lb.
directed towards the impeller. Apply blue Loctite
108 in.-lb.
FC134
FC132
11. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install the

alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).
0742-304
Water Pump - 6000

FC133A
DISASSEMBLING
NOTE: Do not allow sealant into the breather hole
NOTE: The engine must be removed for this proce-
in the crankcase. If sealant gets into the hole, carefully
remove before proceeding. dure.
ant or oil leakage from the bleed hole exist, the seals
must be replaced.
109
CWI-094A CWI-082
NOTE: When servicing the water pump, use Water NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,
Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit and Oil Seal Protec- start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
tor Tool. screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.
NOTE: Tip the crankcase assembly up onto the 4. Remove the retainer and shaft from the opposite side
water pump side; then remove the black torx-screw of the crankcase. Account for the shim located
from the bottom of the crankcase and tip down and between the retainer and shaft flange.
drain the injection oil from the center cavity into a
container.
CWI-097
5. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump

CWI-023A mechanical seal from the crankcase.
1. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hoses to the 6. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
water pump; then remove the hoses. securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
cover; then remove the cover and account for the
O-ring seal and two dowel pins.
CWI-098
7. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull the
inner seal free of the crankcase.
CWI-016A
3. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.

Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind the
cap screw. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
110
CWI-099 FS232
ASSEMBLING 6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface of

the pump driveshaft; then install Oil Seal Protector
1. Thoroughly clean the seal surfaces of the crankcase. Tool at the end of the shaft. Twist the shaft while
pushing it through the water pump seals until the
2. Position new oil seal onto the seal driver (spring side shaft gear engages with the drive gear of the crank-
towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into position. shaft; then remove the tool.
FS230
CWI-101
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the oil seal lips. 7. Position the shim on the retainer end of the shaft;
4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap ring then with the O-ring in place on the retainer, install
securing the oil seal in the crankcase. the retainer.
CWI-098 CWI-100
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water 8. Place the impeller into position and secure with a cap
pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal down into screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of the
position until it seats itself against the crankcase. washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw and
tighten to 48 in.-lb.
111
1. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hoses to the
water pump; then remove the hoses.
CWI-096
9. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then

install the cover. Install the cap screws; then tighten
to 96 in.-lb using a crisscross pattern. XM114A
2. Remove the seven cap screws securing the water

pump cover; then remove the cover and account for
the O-ring seal and two dowel pins.
CWI-095
10. Secure the hoses to the water pump cover.

XM113A
3. Remove the cap screw (A) securing the lower check

Water Pump - 8000 valve to the oil pump and account for the two gas-
kets; then remove the two cap screws (B) securing
the oil pump to the engine. Remove the pump.
DISASSEMBLING
NOTE: The engine must be removed for this proce-
dure.
ant leakage from the bleed hole exist, the water pump
seals must be replaced.
FS220A
NOTE: Leave the two upper check valves secured to

the pump.
FS219A
NOTE: When servicing the water pump, use Water

Pump Bearing and Seal Tool Kit and Oil Seal Protec-
tor Tool.
112
FS221A FS226
4. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller. 7. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump
Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind the mechanical seal from the crankcase.
cap screw.
FS227
XM112 8. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
5. Remove the impeller from the shaft. securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
XM111 FS228
NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft, 9. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull the
start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap inner seal free of the crankcase.
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.
6. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft
from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account for
the shim located between the retainer and shaft
flange.
FS229
113
ASSEMBLING
1. Thoroughly clean the seal surfaces of the crankcase.
2. Position the oil seal onto the seal driver (spring side
towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into position.
FS233A
FS230
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the oil seal lips.

4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap ring
securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
IO025B
7. Position the shim (A) on the oil pump end of the

shaft; then with the O-ring in place on the retainer
(B), install the oil-injection pump retainer.
FS228
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer water

pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal down into
position until it seats itself against the crankcase.
IO026A
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,

align the pump with the shaft; then install the pump.
Secure with the cap screws (coated with blue Loctite
#243) (B) and tighten to 96 in.-lb. Place the lower
check valve into position; then secure with the gas-
kets and cap screw (A). Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
FS232
6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface of
the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install Oil
Seal Protector Tool at the end of the shaft. Twist the
shaft while pushing it through the oil and water
pump seals until the shaft gear engages with the
drive gear of the crankshaft; then remove the tool.
114
FS220A XM112A
NOTE: When installing the lower check valve, 11. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then
assure that the gaskets are installed on each side of install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using
the valve. the pattern shown, tighten to 96 in.-lb.
0742-257
FS235A
12. Secure the hoses to the water pump cover.
NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured, assure
that the oil hoses from the pump to the intake flanges
are routed properly.
Pressure Testing Engine
9. Place the impeller into position and secure with a cap
screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of the
washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply NOTE: To pressure test the engine, use Engine
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw and Leak-Down Test Kit.
tighten to 48 in.-lb.
Liquid Cooling System
The liquid cooling system consists of heat exchangers,

water pump, coolant temperature sensor, and thermostat.
The system should be inspected for leaks or damage
whenever an overheating problem is experienced.
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Remove the access panels; then disconnect the hood
harness and remove all screws securing the hood.
Remove the hood.
XM112
2. With the engine cool, remove the coolant cap; then
using a suitable coolant vacuum pump, remove as
10. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install the much coolant as possible from the coolant tank.
alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).
115
NOTE: If coolant is required, mix coolant for a tem-
perature of -36°C (-34°F). Follow mixing recommen-
dations of the manufacturer of the coolant.
INSPECTING COOLANT HOSES AND
CLAMPS
All coolant hoses and connections should be checked
annually for deterioration, cracks, and wear.
All coolant hoses and clamps should be replaced every
four years.
INSPECTING THERMOSTAT
1. Inspect the thermostat for corrosion, wear, or spring
XM213
damage.
3. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber;
then with the expansion chamber removed, loosen 2. Using the following procedure, inspect the thermo-
the clamp securing the lower coolant hose behind the stat for proper operation.
engine. Remove as much coolant as possible using
the coolant vacuum pump. a. Suspend the thermostat in a container filled with
water; then heat the water and monitor the tempera-
ture with a thermometer.
b. The thermostat should open at 30°C (86°F). Once the
thermostat starts to open, remove the thermostat and
allow it to cool down verifying it has returned to the
fully closed position
CAUTION
Never heat the thermostat to the fully open position or
damage to the thermostat may occur.
Cooling System Schematic

XM209A
NOTE: Raising the rear end of the snowmobile will The following schematic is representative of the different
aid in removing all coolant from the heat exchangers. styles of cooling systems in the Arctic Cat snowmobiles.
Some components may vary from model to model; there-
4. Once the coolant has completely drained, secure the fore, the technician should use discretion and sound judg-
lower coolant hose using the existing clamp. ment when servicing a particular cooling system.
FILLING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile 30-35 cm (12-14
in.).
2. Remove the coolant tank cap and check coolant
level. The coolant tank should be filled to the coolant
level line.
3. Install the coolant tank cap; then start the engine.
Run the engine at 3000-3500 RPM until the bottom
heat exchangers become hot to the touch. Stop the
engine and allow the system to cool.
4. Lower the front of the snowmobile and elevate the
rear of the snowmobile 12-14 in. Repeat the proce-
dures in step 3. 0747-869
5. Check the coolant level. Add coolant as required to

the coolant tank (coolant tank should be filled to
coolant level line). Repeat procedure until coolant
level stabilizes in the coolant tank.
CAUTION
The cooling system must be properly filled. If the sys-
tem isn’t properly filled, piston damage will occur.
116
6. Carefully lift the roller free of the case making sure
the main spring (I) does not disengage from the case.
Recoil Starter Account for the bushing.
! WARNING
Care must be taken when lifting the roller free of the
case.
7. Remove the main spring from the case by lifting the

KEY spring end up and out. Hold the remainder of the
A. Cap Screw spring with thumbs and alternately release each
B. Roller thumb to allow the spring to gradually release from
C. Friction Plate the case.
D. Cap Screw w/Washer
E. Pawl Activator NOTE: Do not remove the main spring unless
F. Pawl replacement is necessary. It should be visually
G. Return Spring inspected in place to save time.
H. Friction Plate Spring
I. Main Spring 8. Unwind the rope from the roller, untie the slip-knot,
741-373B
and remove the rope.
REMOVING CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Tie a slip-knot in the starter rope below the console 1. Clean all recoil starter components.
and allow the rope to slowly retract against the 2. Inspect springs and pawl for wear or damage.
starter case.
3. Inspect the roller and case for cracks or damage.
2. Remove the knot at the handle, remove the handle,
and account for the handle cap; then thread the rope 4. Inspect the center hub for wear, cracks, or damage.
through the bushing in the console.
5. Inspect the rope for breaks or fraying.
3. Remove the cap screws (A) securing the starter
assembly to the magneto case; then remove the 6. Inspect the main spring for cracks, crystallization, or
starter assembly. abnormal bends.
DISASSEMBLING 7. Inspect the handle for damage, cracks, or deteriora-

tion.
! WARNING
ASSEMBLING
Always wear safety glasses and gloves when servicing
the recoil starter. 1. Hook the end of the main spring around the mount-
ing lug in the case.
1. Secure the recoil starter in a vise.
2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in a
! WARNING counterclockwise direction until the complete spring
is installed.
During the disassembly procedure, continuous down-
ward pressure must be exerted on the reel so it does NOTE: The main spring must seat evenly in the
not accidentally disengage and cause injury. recoil case.
2. Rotate the roller (B) counterclockwise until the notch 3. Insert the rope through the hole in the roller and tie a
of the roller is near the rope guide in the case. Guide knot in the end; then wrap the rope counterclockwise
the rope into the notch and slowly allow the roller to around the roller leaving approximately 20 in. of
retract until all recoil spring tension is released. rope free of the roller.
4. Apply low-temperature grease to the main spring and
! WARNING hub.
Care must be taken when allowing the recoil roller to
unwind. Make sure all spring tension is released before 5. Align the hook in the end of the main spring with the
continuing. notch in the roller.
3. While exerting downward pressure on the friction 6. Carefully slide the roller over the hub and engage the
plate (C), remove the cap screw with washer (D). spring with the roller; then install the bushing.
4. Slowly release the friction plate and lift the plate 7. Install the return spring making sure the short leg of
with pawl activator (E) free of the recoil roller; then the spring is properly installed in the hole in the
remove the pawl activator from the friction plate. roller; then install the pawl making sure the return
spring is properly positioned in the notch of the
5. Remove the pawl (F) and the return spring (G); then pawl.
remove the friction plate spring (H).
8. Slide the end of the rope through the rope guide of
the case; then tie a slip-knot in the rope.
117
9. Apply a low-temperature grease to the friction plate. The APV system does not increase engine horsepower,
Place the pawl activator into position on the friction but it does allow the engine to be designed for maximum
plate making sure the arms of the activator are prop- top end horsepower without the losses associated with a
erly positioned to the pawl. “high port” exhaust system.
10. Place the friction plate into position allowing it to COMPONENTS
rest on the friction plate spring; then install the cap The main components of the APV system are the follow-
screw w/washer (coated with blue Loctite #243) and ing.
thread the cap screw in until it contacts the friction
plate. A. Lighting Coil
11. Press down on the friction plate and tighten the cap B. Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
screw to 15 ft-lb.
C. ECM
12. With 20 in. of rope exposed, hook the rope in the
notch of the roller. D. Servomotor
13. Rotate the roller four or five turns counter-clock- E. Power Valve Cables
wise; then release the rope from the notch and allow F. Power Valves
the rope to retract.
Lighting Coil
14. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for cor-
rect tension. The AC current generated by the lighting coil flowing to
the regulator/rectifier is the power source for the APV
NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 13 will system.
increase spring tension.
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
INSTALLING
The AC current from the power coil first enters the regu-
1. Place the starter assembly into position against the lator/rectifier changing from AC current to DC current.
magneto case. Since the APV circuit cannot use pulsating DC current, it
must be converted (by the condenser) to straight DC cur-
2. Secure the starter with cap screws. Tighten to 96 rent. AC current enters the ECM from the lighting coil
in.-lb. and is changed from AC to DC current by a rectifier
NOTE: Before tightening the cap screws, slowly pull located within the ECM.
the recoil rope until the pawl engages; then tighten ECM
the cap screws centering the recoil against the mag-
neto case. The computer within the ECM has been programmed to
cycle the power valves each time the engine is started.
3. Thread the rope through the bushing in the console; When the engine is started, DC current is routed to the
then install the handle and secure with a knot. Seat servomotor by the ECM.
the cap.
Servomotor
4. Release the slip-knot in the rope. The servomotor consists of two circuits. One circuit is a
DC circuit operating the DC motor within the servomo-
tor, and the other is a potentiometer measuring the pulley
Arctic Power Valve (APV) position based on voltage.
System The computer within the ECM has been programmed to
operate the servomotor between a low and high voltage
range. If voltage is not within the range, the computer
The Arctic Power Valve (APV) System adjusts the size of will shut down the APV circuit. The computer will then
the exhaust ports to produce maximum horsepower on make a total of three more attempts to cycle the power
the top end while providing excellent low end power and valves. If the correct voltage or pulley position isn’t seen,
increased touring fuel economy. the APV circuit is shut down and no more attempts will
THEORY be made until the engine is shut down and restarted.
Two-cycle engines and their exhaust systems are Exhaust Valve Cables
designed to produce maximum horsepower in a given The exhaust valves are connected to the actuating cables
RPM range. This RPM range will change according to and, along with the return springs, are contained inside
how high (or low) the exhaust port is in relation to the the APV housing on the exhaust side of each cylinder.
cylinder. Engines designed for racing have a “high port” The other end of the actuating cable is connected to the
exhaust system and will produce more horsepower at servomotor.
higher RPM but only with the loss of low end power and
overall fuel economy. “Low port” engines will produce
maximum horsepower in the low RPM ranges and pro-
vide good mid-range fuel economy, but they sacrifice top
end performance.
118
OPERATION MAINTENANCE
At idle and low speed operation, the exhaust valves are The APV system requires only periodic cleaning and
held in the “low port” position by the return spring. cable adjustment. The cables should be checked every
When engine RPM reaches a predetermined point, the 2600 miles and adjusted as necessary.
ECM will send a signal to the servomotor which cycles
and pulls the exhaust valves into the mid-point. At CABLE ADJUSTMENT
another RPM, the ECM will send a signal to the servo- Proper cable adjustment is critical to the operation of the
motor which cycles and pulls the exhaust valves to the up APV system. To check the cable adjustment, use the fol-
or “high port” position. lowing procedure.
If the servomotor cycles the exhaust valves as explained 1. Using a small needle-nose pliers, remove the servo-
above, the exhaust valve circuit is operating satisfacto- motor cable holder.
rily. If the servomotor makes no attempt to open the
valves or if the servomotor attempts to cycle the valves
three times (then stops working), a problem exists and it
must be corrected.
Servomotor Cycles Three Times
In this situation the ECM computer has been pro-
grammed with a voltage range (low and high) that the
servomotor must operate within. If the servomotor is put
under too much load, its resistance goes up and may
exceed the range upper limit. It will then stop and attempt
two more times. If the resistance still is too high, it shuts
down.
If the servomotor is commanded to move but the potenti-
ometer output voltage does not change, an error occurs PC187A
and the check engine light will flash a trouble code. 2. Pull the cable housings down and out of the servo-
motor; then slide each cable end out of the slot of the
Improper servomotor position sensing is normally caused pulley.
by one or more of the following:
A. Incorrect exhaust valve cable length (too long or too
short).
B. Exhaust valve cable(s) sticking, broken, or discon-
nected at pulley.
C. Exhaust valves sticking.
D. Exhaust valve spring(s) weak or broken.
Check each of the above probable causes in the order
given to locate the problem of the servomotor cycling
three times in succession; then shutting down.
Check for correct exhaust valve cable length specifica-
tions for model being worked on in this section. PC134
NOTE: Ensure the exhaust valves are free to move.

Servomotor Makes No Attempt To
Cycle 3. While holding the cable housing firmly, pull the
If when running the engine the servomotor makes no cable as far out as it will go; then release. Repeat
attempt to operate, this is caused by one or more of the three to four times. The cable/exhaust valve should
following: move freely without binding. If the cable/exhaust
valve does not move freely, the exhaust valve assem-
A. Bad connection from the wiring harness and connec- bly will need to be removed for further inspection.
tor from the lighting coil to the ECM, or from the
ECM to servomotor. NOTE: When measuring the cables, they are to be
routed and as close to their installed position as possi-
B. ECM output to servomotor is too low. ble.
C. Servomotor failure. 4. While holding the cable housing, lightly pull on one
cable end to remove any slack; then measure the
D. Blown fuse. amount of exposed cable from the cable housing to
E. Voltage Regulator/Rectifier. the end of the cable.
NOTE: For testing individual APV system compo- NOTE: The two cable measurements must be equal
nents, see the Electrical Systems section. in length or less than 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) difference in
length from each other.
119
NOTE: Repeat steps 3 and 4 for each cable; then
compare the measurements to the APV Cable Length
chart in the General Information section. The mea-
surements must be within the specifications from the
chart. If the measurements are within specifications,
no adjustment is necessary (proceed to step 7). If they
are not within specifications, proceed to step 5.
5. Loosen the jam nut on the cable to be adjusted; then
using the adjusting nuts, lengthen or shorten the
housing as needed.
6. Once the proper length has been attained, hold the
adjusting nut in place and tighten the jam nut
securely. XM017
7. Insert the servomotor cable ends into the slot in the 2. Remove the retaining screw securing the exhaust
pulley. Secure the cables with the holder. valve to the valve stopper.
NOTE: If the pulley was removed from the servo-

motor, align the space between the two cable slots
with the mark on the shaft of the servomotor. Tighten
the nut to 35 in.-lb.
FC112
3. Hold the valve stopper securely and pull the cable

back and up until it clears the top of the stopper; then
slowly release the cable and remove it from the valve
stopper.
MS401A
CAUTION
Never attempt to remove or install the pulley jam nut
with the pulley unsecured or damage to the servomotor
will occur.
FC113

1. Remove all carbon deposits with solvent and a soft
abrasive such as a Scotch-Brite pad.
FZ087A
2. Inspect all parts for nicks, burrs, or other signs of
unusual wear.
REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING
Replacing Oil Seal
NOTE: To avoid a parts mix-up, only remove one
valve assembly at a time from the engine. 1. Carefully pry the seal up from beneath taking care
not to damage the valve plate.
1. Remove the exhaust valve assembly from the engine. 2. Install the new seal using an appropriate-sized seal
driving tool.
120
FC117 FC113
ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING 3. With the valve plate gasket properly positioned, slide

the exhaust valve through the valve plate and insert it
into the valve stopper. Secure with the retaining
screw. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
KEY
A. Exhaust Valve D. Oil Seal G. Stopper Pin
B. Cover Gasket E. Gasket H. Return Spring
C. Valve Plate F. Stopper I. Valve Cover FC112
FC111A NOTE: Note that the exhaust valve gaskets are

1. Slide the return spring over the end of the actuating directional and must be installed correctly.
cable.
4. Slide the exhaust valve assembly into the cylinder.
FC114
XM017
NOTE: Make sure that the small cable end spring 5. Place the valve cover into position on the engine.
stays in place at the end of the cable. Secure with two cap screws. Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
2. With the cover gasket properly positioned, place the
valve stopper on the cable end and slide it down until
the cable end is inside the stopper.
121
Problem: Engine loses power; no top end
Condition Remedy
1. Exhaust valves sticking in 1. Remove carbon deposits,
down position burrs, etc.
2. Cables adjusted too long 2. Inspect—adjust
3. Regulator/Rectifier output 3. Inspect—replace Regula-
voltage out of tolerance tor/Rectifier/stator
Problem: Poor acceleration; hesitation
Condition Remedy
1. Exhaust valve sticking in 1. Remove carbon deposits,
up position burrs,
etc.—inspect/replace
return spring
XM024A
2. Cables adjusted too short 2. Inspect—adjust
6. Perform steps 5-8 in Cable Adjustment in this
3. Regulator/Rectifier output 3. Inspect—replace
sub-section. voltage out of tolerance Regulator/Rectifier/
stator
TROUBLESHOOTING
The APV system has a self-testing mode built in. Every
time that the engine is started, the servomotor will cycle
once. The ECM monitors the voltages at the servomotor Exhaust Controlled Timing
during this cycle to assure they are within operational tol- (ECT) System
erances.
If all voltages are within tolerance, the system is ready These models are equipped with the Exhaust Controlled
for operation. If the voltages are not within tolerance, the Timing (ECT) system utilizing an exhaust pipe tempera-
servomotor will cycle two more times. If the voltages ture sensor.
remain out of tolerance, the system will not operate.
NOTE: The engine has a three-stage exhaust valve
For example, if the headlight and taillight are disabled, system. The stages are closed, mid-open, and
the ECM will sense a high voltage condition and activate full-open. These models have a designated RPM of
the fail-safe mode. Adding more than 4 amps of accesso- 4500 at which the system is synchronized and checked
ries will create a low voltage condition and activate the by the ECM for proper operation occurring once each
fail-safe mode. time the engine is started.
The fail-safe mode is an ECM operated engine RPM lim- This system automatically adjusts the ignition timing to
iter. When activated, the fail-safe mode will be seen as an provide maximum performance through a variety of
immediate loss of engine horsepower. operating conditions. The ECM receives input on engine
RPM (demand) and exhaust temperature (engine condi-
tion) and adjusts the ignition timing accordingly. This
system is not adjustable and is maintenance free.
If a system fault is suspected, use an ohmmeter to check
continuity of the exhaust pipe temperature sensor located
in the expansion chamber. A reading of either 0 ohm or
infinity indicates a failed sensor.
NOTE: A disabled ECT system WILL NOT cause
engine damage; however, a failed ECT system will
have slower throttle response and may produce
slightly less top-end performance.
122
4. An injector coil located on the stator provides the
injectors with DC voltage for operation through the
Fuel Systems ECM.
5. A lighting coil located on the stator plate provides
output to the regulator/rectifier (8000) to operate
This section has been organized for servicing the fuel accessories and the lighting system.
systems; however, some components may vary from
model to model. The technician should use discretion and FLOODED ENGINE
sound judgment when removing/disassembling and If the engine should become flooded, set the brake lever
assembling/installing components. lock, compress the throttle lever to the full-open position,
Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on the and crank the engine over until it starts and clears itself.
fuel system where fuel leakage may occur, there should Release the brake lever lock.
be no welding, smoking, or open flames in the area. FUEL SYSTEM
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, The fuel is first drawn into the electric fuel pump through
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec- multiple pick-up valves and hoses. The fuel is then
essary. routed through a high-pressure fuel hose to the fuel rail.
SPECIAL TOOLS The fuel pressure is maintained in the fuel rail by the fuel
regulator. With the fuel pressure maintained at a constant
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- psi, the ECM evaluates the information it receives from
cian when servicing the fuel systems. the electrical sensors and opens the injectors for precise
Description p/n periods of time (pulse widths) to meet engine demands.
CATT II 0554-023 NOTE: The entire EFI system depends on all coils
EFI Analyzer 0744-049 functioning properly on the stator.
EFI Diagnostic System Manual 2257-850
EFI Diagnostic System Manual (Instructions) 2259-020
Fluke Model 77 Multimeter 0644-559
Individual Components
Fuel Hose Clamp Tool 0644-545
EFI Fuel Pressure Test Kit 0644-587
Vacuum Test Pump 0644-131 ECM
Fuel Pump Installation Tool Kit 0744-074 The ECM is the brain of the EFI system. It uses sensor
Laptop Diagnostic Test Kit 0744-050 inputs to determine the correct fuel/air ratio for the
Laptop Diagnostic Tool 0744-060 engine given the existing conditions of altitude and tem-
Oil Injection Usage Tool 0644-007 perature.
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic If any of the sensors should fail while the engine is run-
Cat Service Parts Department. ning, the ECM will sense a problem and go into a “fail
safe” mode. This is an over-rich condition and will
greatly reduce performance. However, the engine will be
EFI System protected from a possible lean condition and engine dam-
age.
The ECM is equipped with a self-diagnostic system uti-
INTRODUCTION lizing the service icon in the speedometer/tachometer and
The Arctic Cat EFI System operates off a series of coils remains illuminated when a problem exists with any of
located on the stator and is made up of the following the sensors. The technician can determine the problem
components. sensor by reading the code shown on the readout screen
and applying it to the ECM Diagnostic Codes chart (see
1. An engine control module (ECM) calculates input Self-Diagnostic System/Codes in this section).
from sensors (exhaust temperature sensor, air tem-
perature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, throttle NOTE: The ECM cannot be repaired.
position sensor, ignition timing sensor, barometric If the ECM is not receiving current from one of the out-
pressure sensor, and a knock sensor) to provide the put coils on the stator, that circuit will not operate. Coils
engine with the correct fuel mixture and timing for on the stator are the charge coils operating the ECM, the
optimum operation. injector coil which operates the injectors, the fuel pump
2. Charge coils (1 and 2), located on the stator, provide coil which operates the fuel pump, and the lighting
AC voltage to the ECM/regulator/rectifier where AC coil/chassis control unit operating all accessories and the
voltage is converted to DC voltage. lighting system.
3. A fuel pump coil located on the stator operates the NOTE: On the 4000, the ECM is coded with a letter
low voltage, high output fuel pump. At cranking (A-B-C). When replacement of the ECM is necessary,
speed, the high output fuel pump provides enough the ECM must be replaced with an ECM of the same
fuel to charge the fuel rail. letter.
123
NOTE: On the 8000, the ECM is coded with sym- NOTE: If the coolant temperature rises above 75° C
bols (--). When replacement of the ECM is nec- (167° F), the temperature sensor starts to richen the
essary, the ECM must be replaced with an ECM of fuel mixture. At this time, the check engine light will
the same code. flash constantly. Once the engine coolant temperature
reaches the specified temperature 90° C (194° F), the
Removing temperature sensor will signal the ECM to go into the
1. Remove the expansion chamber. rich mode to protect the engine while overheating. At
this time, the check engine light will be constantly on.
2. Remove the two torx-head screws securing the rear
portion of the ECM heat shield; then remove the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
shield. This sensor is a potentiometer (essentially, a resistor).
3. Disconnect the wire harness leads from the ECM; This sensor transforms the throttle-valve position into
then remove the two cap screws securing the ECM. output voltage to the ECM. In addition, the sensor detects
Remove the ECM. the opening or closing speed of the throttle valve and
feeds that rate of voltage change to the ECM.
Installing
NOTE: The input from the throttle position sensor
1. Secure the ECM to the chassis using the existing cap is one of the main inputs for the ECM calculation of
screws; then connect the wiring harness to the ECM. fuel/air mixture ratio.
2. Secure the front of the ECM heat shield into the tabs; IGNITION TIMING SENSOR
then secure the back of the ECM heat shield using
the existing torx-head screws. Install the expansion This sensor is triggered by teeth precisely mounted to the
chamber. flywheel flange. Each time a tooth rotates past the sensor,
a signal is sent to the ECM. From this signal, the ECM
NOTE: Make sure all connectors are clean and determines ignition and injection timing and RPM.
tight. Apply dielectric grease to all connectors.
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR
AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
This sensor is part of the ECM. Its purpose is to sense
This sensor detects air temperature entering the air atmospheric pressure. From this information, the ECM
silencer and engine. The ECM sends current to this sen- determines the correct fuel/air mixture ratio.
sor, and (depending on the temperature) the sensor will
pass a certain amount of current through the sensor to NOTE: The sensor is not replaceable. If it should
ground. The ECM measures how much current passes fail, the ECM must be replaced.
through the sensor to ground. From this measurement,
the ECM determines the air temperature and calculates FUEL INJECTORS
the fuel/air mixture ratio. Resistance will drop as the tem- A fuel injector is an electromagnetic injection valve con-
perature rises. trolled by a signal from the ECM. The coil used in the
injector is a high-pressure resistance type. The ECM
Removing determines the optimum fuel injection time and duration
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the air tempera- based on signals from the sensors.
ture sensor.
When voltage is sent to the fuel injector, it energizes the
2. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the sensor end to coil and opens the needle valve, thereby injecting fuel.
end to remove it from the air silencer. Account for Because the fuel pressure (between fuel line and mani-
two push pins. fold) is kept constant, the amount of fuel injected is
determined by the duration of time the valve is open and
Installing manifold pressure.
1. Place the sensor into position in the air silencer and 8000
secure with push pins.
The injectors are coded with symbols (--) and are
2. Connect the wiring harness to the air temperature color-coded yellow and green. When replacement of a
sensor. Secure the sensor wires with cable ties so fuel injector is necessary, the injector must be replaced
they do not rub on any other components. with an injector of the same code symbol and color.
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CAUTION
This sensor detects coolant temperature. The ECM mea-
Do not replace an injector with one of a different code
sures the current flow through the sensor to ground. From
this measurement, the ECM can determine the engine symbol. Severe engine damage may occur.
coolant temperature and calculate the correct fuel/air
mixture ratio.
124
6000
SNO-738
Removing
CWI-106
WARNING Removing
Since the fuel supply hose may be under pressure,
remove it slowly to release the pressure. Place an absor-
1. With both access panels, hood, seat, and the gas tank
bent towel around the connection to absorb gasoline;
removed, remove the nuts securing the fuel rail to the
back of the cylinders.
then remove the hose slowly to release the pressure.
Always wear safety glasses when removing the fuel 2. Pull the fuel rail with the injectors from the cylinders
hoses. and disconnect the wiring harness from each injector.
1. Loosen the clamp securing the fuel supply hose to 3. Carefully remove the injector from the fuel rail.
the fuel rail; then remove the hose from the fuel rail. Account for both gaskets.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from each injector. Installing
3. Remove the screws securing the injector hold-down NOTE: If installing new injectors, be sure to leave
plate to the throttle body assembly; then remove the the tag on the injector(s) as the codes A and B and the
plate from the injectors. cylinder (MAG or PTO side) must be entered using
4. Remove the fuel injectors from the throttle the CATT II Tool.
body/intake manifold assembly.
Installing
1. Apply a light coat of oil to all O-rings; then install
the upper and lower O-rings onto each injector.
2. Install the injectors into the throttle body assembly.
3. Place the injector hold-down plate into position on
top of the injectors and secure with two screws.
4. Connect the fuel delivery hose to the fuel rail and
secure with a clamp.
SNO-1235A
NOTE: When securing the fuel delivery hose, posi- 1. Lightly oil the injector seals using the C-TEC2
tion the clamp as shown. engine oil; then carefully install the injector into the
fuel rail.
2. Connect the wiring harness to the injectors; then
install the fuel rail with injectors into the back of the
cylinders. Secure using the existing nuts. Tighten to
102 in-lb.
4000
The injectors are coded with letters (A-B-C). When
replacement of a fuel injector is necessary, the injector
must be replaced with an injector of the same letter.
CAUTION
Do not replace an injector with one of a different code
729-325A letter. Severe engine damage may occur.
5. Connect the wiring harness to the injectors.
125
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
The fuel pressure regulator maintains the fuel pressure at
a constant specified level.
EXHAUST TEMPERATURE SENSOR
This platinum, thin-film sensor detects the exhaust air
temperature in the exhaust system. The ECM sends cur-
rent to this sensor, and (depending on the temperature)
the sensor will pass a portion of that current to ground.
The ECM measures how much current passes through the
sensor to ground. From this measurement, the ECM
determines the exhaust air temperature and adjusts the
fuel, ignition timing, and APV calibration. Resistance
XM-281
will increase as the temperature rises.
Removing FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT

The fuel pump and its circuit are provided with current
WARNING from the fuel pump coil on the stator. For this circuit to
Since the fuel supply hose may be under pressure, function correctly, five components must be properly
remove it slowly to release the pressure. Place an absor- functioning. Check the following components before
bent towel around the connection to absorb gasoline; considering the fuel pump assembly to be defective.
A. Fuel pump coil - see coil test procedure.
Always wear safety glasses when removing the fuel
hoses. B. Emergency stop switch and ignition switch must be
1. Loosen the clamp securing the fuel supply hose to ON.
the fuel rail; then remove the hose from the fuel rail. C. Fuel pump - see fuel pump test procedure.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from each injector. D. Wiring harness and connectors - clean the connectors
3. Remove the screws securing the injector hold-down and test the harness.
plate to the throttle body assembly; then remove the E. ECM.
plate from the injectors.
KNOCK SENSOR
4. Remove the fuel injectors from the throttle
body/intake manifold assembly. This sensor controls engine knock or detonation. The
knock sensor assesses structure borne noise (vibrations)
caused by rapid pressure rises (detonation) in either cyl-
Installing inder and performs calibration adjustments to the neces-
1. Apply a light coat of oil to all O-rings; then install sary cylinder via the ECM limiting damage to internal
the upper and lower O-rings onto each injector. engine components. Detonation can be caused by many
variables including poor fuel quality, lean operating con-
2. Install the injectors into the throttle body assembly. ditions, or modified engine components/systems.
3. Place the injector hold-down plate into position on
top of the injectors and secure with two screws.
4. Connect the fuel delivery hose to the fuel rail and
Self-Diagnostic
secure with a clamp. System/Codes (4000)
NOTE: When securing the fuel delivery hose, posi-
tion the clamp as shown. INTRODUCTION
The Diagnostic Code Alarm is controlled by the ECM. If
a code illuminates while the engine is running, the ECM
is receiving input that is outside of its established param-
eters.
729-325A
5. Connect the wiring harness to the injectors.
126
Code Trouble
P0546 Exhaust temp sensor circuit high.
P1000 Oil pump flow not programmed.
P1001 Injector 1 offset not programmed.
P1002 Injector 2 offset not programmed.
P1003 Oil pump outlier.
P1004 ISC outlier.
P1005 Regulator voltage circuit low.
P1006 Regulator voltage circuit high.
P1007 Fuel pump circuit low.
P1008 Fuel pump circuit high.
P1009 Speed sensor malfunction.
P1261 Injector circuit/open - Cylinder 1b.
P1264 Injector circuit/open - Cylinder 2b.
FZ003E
P1324 Knock Control System Activated
Code Trouble P1329 Knock sensor loose detection.
2 Failure in injector(s). P1636 Crank angle sensor circuit.
4 Open or short circuit in barometric pressure sensor. P1639 Exhaust valve position sensor circuit low.
P1640 Exhaust valve position sensor circuit high.
5 Open or short circuit in intake air temperature sensor.
P1645 Exhaust valve system malfunction.
6 Open or short circuit in water temperature sensor.
P1646 Exhaust valve actuator self-cleaning open error.
7 Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor.
P1647 Exhaust valve actuator short error.
12 Failure in ignition coils. P1755 Engine RPM sensor circuit malfunction.
P2228 Barometric pressure sensor (A) circuit low.
P2229 Barometric pressure sensor (A) circuit high.
Self-Diagnostic P3001 Control module improper shutdown.
System/Codes (6000) U1000

U1001
Vehicle not registered or invalid PIN entered.
Vehicle not registered and vehicle limits enabled.
U0155 Lost communication with the ECM
NOTE: For testing the 6000 EFI system, refer to the

CATT II manual. The fuel system and the ignition system remain two sepa-
rate systems. In a no-start situation, first determine if the
INTRODUCTION problem is caused by lack of spark or by a fuel delivery
The Diagnostic Code Alarm is controlled by the ECM. If problem or by an internal engine condition (low cylinder
a code and the word ALARM illuminates while the compression for example).
engine is running, the ECM is receiving input that is out- Once the problem area has been determined, check the
side of its established parameters. components involved using the Fluke Model 77 Multi-
meter or the EFI Analyzer depending on the test being
made.
Self-Diagnostic
System/Codes (8000)
NOTE: For testing the 8000 EFI system, refer to the

EFI Diagnostic System Manual with Laptop Diagnos-
tic Tool and Laptop Diagnostic Test Kit.
INTRODUCTION
CWI-105A The Service Icon is controlled by the ECM. The icon
Code Trouble should illuminate each time the engine is started, and it
P0112 Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit low. should go out after a few seconds. If the icon stays illu-
P0113 Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high minated while the engine is running and a code is dis-
P0117 Coolant temp sensor 1 circuit low. played on the readout screen, the ECM is receiving input
P0118 Coolant temp sensor 1 circuit high. that is outside of its established parameters.
P0122 Throttle position sensor circuit low.
P0123 Throttle position sensor circuit high.
P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low.
P0264 Cylinder 2 injector circuit low.
P0324 Knock control system error.
P0327 Knock control 1 circuit low.
P0328 Knock control 2 circuit high.
P0351 Ignition coil (A) primary/secondary.
P0352 Ignition coil (B) primary/secondary.
P0545 Exhaust temp sensor circuit low.
127
2. Pressurize the regulator to 28-31.3 psi. Turn the pres-
Deluxe Gauge sure tester shut off valve to the OFF position.
Observe the gauge for several minutes and note any
loss of pressure. If pressure begins to drop, the cause
may be a ruptured diaphragm, worn spring, or leak-
ing valve. If the regulator fails to build or maintain
pressure, replace the regulator.
NOTE: If the pressure drops, check the hose con-
nections to ensure no leaks exist.
Throttle Body Assembly

FZ001D
Standard Gauge REMOVING

4000/8000
NOTE: The expansion chamber, shock mount
bracket support and air silencer must be removed for
this procedure (see the Engine-Related Items section).
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from each injector and
from the throttle position sensor.
2. Remove the coolant hoses from the throttle body
assembly and plug them to prevent leakage.
3. Remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail.
FZ003B
Code Trouble WARNING

2 Failure in injector(s). Since the fuel supply hose may be under pressure,
4 Open or short circuit in barometric pressure sensor circuit. remove it slowly to release the pressure. Place an absor-
5 Open or short circuit in intake air temperature sensor circuit. bent towel around the connection to absorb gasoline;
6 Open or short circuit in water temperature sensor circuit. then remove the hose slowly to release the pressure.
7 Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor circuit. Always wear safety glasses when removing the fuel
12 Failure in ignition coil(s). hoses.
16 Incorrect adjustment/failure in APV cable.
4. Loosen the flange clamps.
17 Failure in exhaust temperature sensor circuit.
18 Failure in servomotor. 5. Remove the oil pump control rod.
21 Open or short circuit and/or loose knock sensor circuit.
6. Slide the throttle body assembly out of the flanges;
OCTN Low octane gasoline. then loosen the jam nut securing the throttle cable
NOTE: For codes ECM 16 and ECM 18, see Servo- and remove.
motor/Potentiometer Test in the Electrical Systems 7. Remove the throttle body assembly.
section.
6000
The fuel system and the ignition system remain two sepa-
rate systems. In a no-start situation, first determine if the NOTE: The expansion chamber, shock mount
problem is caused by lack of spark or by a fuel delivery bracket support and air silencer must be removed for
problem or by an internal engine condition (low cylinder this procedure (see the Engine-Related Items section).
compression for example). 1. Disconnect the TPS from the wiring harness.
Once the problem area has been determined, check the 2. Remove both hoses securing the ISC to the throttle
components involved using the Fluke Model 77 Multi- body; then remove the coolant hoses from the throt-
meter or the EFI Analyzer depending on the test being tle body assembly and plug them to prevent leakage.
made.
3. Loosen the clamps securing the throttle body assem-
bly to the intake manifolds. Slide the throttle body
Fuel Pressure Regulator assembly out of the manifolds; then loosen the jam
nut securing the throttle cable and remove.
4. Remove the throttle body.
1. Using the Fuel Pressure Test Kit, connect the tester
to the regulator fuel inlet.
NOTE: A short piece of 3/8 in. I.D. hose will be
needed to make the above connections.
128
INSTALLING 6. Connect the ISC hoses to the throttle body using the
clamps.
4000/8000
1. Attach the throttle cable to the throttle body; then
secure with jam nut. Secure the coolant hoses to
throttle body assembly. Throttle Cable
2. Place the throttle body assembly into position. Make
sure the flanges and boots are positioned properly. REMOVING
Secure with flange clamps. 1. Loosen the throttle cable from the bracket; then
3. Connect the oil pump control rod. remove the throttle cable from the pulley on the
throttle body lever shaft.
4. Connect the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail.
2. Remove the cable ties securing the throttle cable.
3. Remove the throttle cable ends from the throttle
lever and from the throttle control housing.
INSTALLING/ADJUSTING
1. Install the throttle cable into the throttle control
assembly making sure the cable snaps into place.
2. Install the throttle cable end on the throttle lever.
3. Route the throttle cable from the throttle control
assembly to the throttle body assembly and oil-injec-
tion pump; avoid any sharp bends or moving compo-
nents.
729-325A 4. Attach the throttle cable to the pulley on the throttle
5. Connect the wiring harness to each injector and body shaft.
throttle position sensor.
5. Secure the throttle cable to the handlebar and steer-
ing post with cable ties.
CAUTION
Verify the oil pump rod linkage is properly installed or 6. Adjust the throttle cable tension by turning the jam
damage to the engine will occur. nuts in the appropriate direction until 0.030-0.060 in.
free-play exists in the throttle lever and the butterfly
NOTE: Install the air silencer, shock mount bracket completely opens and closes. Tighten the jam nuts
support, and the expansion chamber (see the securely.
Engine-Related Items section).
6. Place the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded safety
stand and start the engine without touching the throt-
tle. It may idle slowly and stop Restart using the
same procedure until the engine starts and builds
RPM on its own.
CAUTION
7. Check the cooling system and adjust the throttle
cable as necessary. 741-518A
6000 CAUTION
1. Position the intake boot into the chassis. Compress the throttle control lever to ensure free move-
ment. If the throttle cable sticks or binds, correct the
2. Attach the throttle cable to the throttle body; then
secure with jam nut. problem before starting the engine.
3. Install the coolant hoses to the throttle body and 7. Synchronize the oil-injection pump.
secure using the clamps.
4. Place the throttle body assembly into position into
the intake manifolds. Secure with the clamps.
5. Connect the wiring harness to the TPS; then position
the intake boot over the throttle body and secure
using the clamps.
129
3. Use Fuel Hose Clamp Tool to make sure the fuel rail
side hose clamp is tight by crimping the clamps until
Fuel Filter (6000) the two clamp areas touch.
NOTE: The fuel filter should be replaced every 5000

miles.
WARNING
hoses.
NOTE: Before removing the fuel filter, take note of

the filter inlet and outlet for installing purposes. XM282
4. Start the engine and inspect the fuel hoses and filter
REMOVING for any signs of leaks.
1. Remove the right-side access panel to access the fuel
filter; then remove the gasline hose from the two 5. Close the right-side access panel.
routing clamps on the front right spar.
Fuel Pump
TESTING
1. Remove the seat assembly; then remove the upper
and lower console panels.
2. Disconnect the gasline hose connector hose from the
outlet of the fuel pump by pressing inward on the
white connector, pressing in the black release, and
finally pulling back on the hose.
WARNING
XM282
2. Remove the hose clamps; then slowly remove the remove it slowly to release the pressure. Place an absor-
gasline hoses from the fuel filter. Dispose of the
excess fuel from the filter properly.
NOTE: The fuel pump side hose clamp should be Always wear safety glasses when removing the fuel
retained and the fuel rail side hose clamp should be hoses.
discarded.
3. Inspect the hoses for any signs of cracking, cuts, or
wear points. Replace if necessary.
INSTALLING
CAUTION
When installing the gasline hoses and clamps make
sure the hoses are pressed up against the filter and the
clamps are not installed over the end of the hose or the
barb on the filter.
1. Place existing hose clamp (fuel pump side) and a
new hose clamp (fuel rail side) on the gasline hoses;
then with the fuel pump inlet and outlet oriented cor- XM211A
rectly, press the gasline hoses onto the filter making 3. Connect Fuel Pressure Test Kit to the fuel pump and
sure they are fully pressed on. fuel hose.
2. Secure the gasline hoses using the clamps making 4. Start the engine. Fuel pressure should be as speci-
sure there is no more than 9 mm between the filter and fied.
the clamps. Tighten the fuel pump side hose clamp to
14 in.-lb. 4000/8000 42.8-47.3 psi
6000 58-62 psi
130
NOTE: If fuel pressure is not as specified, the pump
is defective and must be replaced.
5. Disconnect the fuel pump from the main wiring har-
ness.
6. Connect the positive lead of a 12-volt power supply
to the red wire and the negative lead of the 12-volt
power supply to the black wire.
7. The pump should operate (it would be heard run-
ning).
NOTE: If the fuel pump fails to operate, reverse the
power supply at the fuel pump connector allowing the
motor to run in the opposite direction. This will verify SNO-702
that nothing has entered and/or obstructed the pump. NOTE: If the fuel pickup assembly is not being
NOTE: If the fuel pump still fails to operate, the replaced, inspect the screens for any tears or obstruc-
pump is defective and must be replaced. tions. Also check the hoses and replace if necessary.
REMOVING INSTALLING
1. Remove both access panels, hood, upper and lower 1. Slide Fuel Pump Installation Tool onto the fuel hose
consoles, and seat. near the “Y” fitting until the tool touches the middle
pickup. The two rear pickups should be pulled
2. Disconnect the fuel pump harness connector; then together.
disconnect the gasline hose from the outlet of the
fuel pump by pressing inward on the white connec-
tor, pressing in the black release, and finally pulling
back on the hose.
SNO-704
XM211B 2. Carefully push the fuel pump assembly down and

back into the fuel tank until the white fuel sensor
WARNING (below the fuel pump) is flush with the fuel pump
Since the fuel supply hose may be under pressure, mounting surface.
hoses.
3. Remove and retain the six torx-head screws securing

the fuel pump in the fuel tank; then remove the
retaining ring.
4. Carefully remove the fuel pump and fuel pickup
assembly from the gas tank noting the orientation of
the fuel pump outlet for assembling purposes.
SNO-705
3. While holding the fuel pump with the white fuel sen-
sor in this position, pull the tool up to the tank open-
ing with the retrieval cord.
131
4. Make sure the front pickup will sit flat on the bottom
of the tank with no kinks in the fuel hose.
SNO-744
NOTE: Tip the fuel pump assembly to one side

enough to allow the tool to be removed.
NOTE: When the fuel pump hose assembly is
installed correctly, the two rear pickups will lie flat in SNO-706
the rear of the fuel tank. 5. Install the retaining ring over the fuel pump and
secure the fuel pump to the gas tank assembly using
the existing torx-head screws. Tighten to 40 in.-lb.
CAUTION
Use care not to over tighten the retaining plate screws
or damage to the gas tank may result.
6. Connect the fuel pump harness connector to the main

harness and secure to the retaining ring with a cable
tie; then secure the gasline hose to the fuel pump
making sure it locks into place.
7. Install the upper and lower consoles using existing
machine screws; then install the seat (see the Steer-
ing and Body section), hood, and access panels.
SNO-791
Troubleshooting
Problem: Too Rich

Condition Remedy
1. Diagnostic trouble code activated 1. Replace problem sensor
2. Fuel pressure too high 2. Replace regulator
3. Service - replace hose - remove obstruction
3. Fuel return hose obstructed 4. Replace injectors
4. Injectors leaking
Problem: Too Lean
Condition Remedy
1. Diagnostic trouble code activated 1. Replace problem sensor
2. Fuel pressure too low 2. Replace regulator/fuel pump
3. Remove obstruction
3. Vent hose obstructed 4. Replace fuel filter(s)
4. Fuel filter(s) obstructed
132
2. Place the gasket and oil-injection pump near the
engine; then install the lower union bolt through a
Oil-Injection Pump gasket, check valve, and gasket.
(4000/8000) 3. Position the oil-injection pump on the engine making
sure the oil-injection pump gear is correctly aligned
with the oil-injection pump drive gear.
CAUTION 4. Secure the pump with two screws (coated with blue
When servicing the oil-injection system, use a 100:1 Loctite #243). Tighten screws to 96 in.-lb.
gas/oil mixture in the gas tank to ensure adequate
engine lubrication. Failure to use the 100:1 mixture to 5. Connect the oil-delivery hoses to the adapter plates.
the oil-injection system will result in severe engine Secure with clamps.
damage. 6. Connect the oil-injection cable/control rod to the
REMOVING pump and secure.
NOTE: To service the oil-injection pump, the 7. Connect the oil-supply hose to the oil-injection pump
exhaust system and the air silencer must be removed inlet fitting. Secure with the clamp.
(see the Engine-Related Items section). 8. Bleed the oil-injection system.
1. Remove the throttle bodies and secure them out of 9. Check the oil-injection system synchronization (see
the way in an upright position. SYNCHRONIZING in this sub-section). Tighten the
2. Disconnect the oil-supply hose from the pump and jam nuts securely.
plug to prevent oil drainage. 10. Install the throttle bodies.
3. Remove the oil-delivery hoses from the adapter NOTE: Install the exhaust system and the air
plates/intake flanges. silencer (see the Engine-Related Items section).
4. Disconnect the oil-injection cable/control rod. SYNCHRONIZING
5. Remove the two screws securing the oil-injection
pump and retainer to the crankcase; then pull the 4000
oil-injection pump away from the retainer/crankcase
and account for a gasket/O-ring.
NOTE: Remove the oil-injection pump from the
crankcase only if the O-ring or gasket need to be
replaced.
6. Turn the pump sideways; then remove the lower
union bolt (4). Account for two washer gaskets (1)
(3). Remove the pump.
0742-331
8000
731-551A
7. Remove the remaining union bolts securing the

check valves to the pump. Account for the washer
gaskets. 0746-376
8. Remove the check valves. Account for two gaskets.

INSTALLING
1. In turn on each front union bolt, install a washer gas-
ket, check valve, and washer gasket; then install on
the oil-injection pump.
133
1. Rotate the control rod until the setting for oil pump at NOTE: Before starting the engine, make sure that
wide open throttle is 1 to 1.5 lines lean. Return the no air is present in the testing equipment.
control rod/throttle cable to the Idle position.
8. With the control rod secured in the Full-Open posi-
CAUTION tion (line-to-line), run the engine at recommended
RPM for 2 minutes. Compare the amount of oil used
Assure the throttle cable/linkage has returned to the
against the specifications listed.
fully closed (idle) position and has not remained par-
tially open and moves freely from the open position to Model RPM Full-Open 2 Minutes
the closed position. 8000 1833 8.74-10.8 cc
2. Open and close the throttle lever to verify proper 4000 1833 7.4-10.3 cc
operation and that the throttle linkage returns to the 9. If the oil-injection pump output does not meet the
fully CLOSED position. Do not adjust the oil specifications, see TESTING CHECK VALVES in
pump at idle, only at WOT. this sub-section.
TESTING 10. Disconnect the oil usage tool, remove the plug from
NOTE: These tests must be made with the snowmo- the reservoir, and attach the oil-supply hose to the oil
bile and oil at a “room” temperature of 20°-30° C reservoir.
(68°-86° F). NOTE: After testing the oil pump, the oil pump
must be correctly synchronized with the carbure-
! WARNING tors/throttle bodies (see SYNCHRONIZING in this
Always wear safety glasses when performing this test. sub-section).
1. Disconnect the oil pump cable/control rod from the TESTING CHECK VALVES
control rod on the pump.
If an engine problem occurs due to lack of lubrication,
2. Clamp off the oil-supply hose between the oil reser- the check valves should be tested using a vacuum pump
voir and oil pump; then remove the supply hose from to make sure they are operating properly.
the pump.
1. Remove the check valves from the oil-injection
3. Attach a suitable length of clear oil-supply hose to pump.
the oil pump; then using Oil Injection Usage Tool,
fill the hose with Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle 2. Attach the Vacuum Test Pump hose to the check
Oil. valve.
NOTE: Do not fully insert the usage tool into hose. 3. Squeeze the vacuum pump handle and watch the
There must be enough room around the tip of the tool pump gauge. The check valve should release at 4.5-5
lb and again reset itself at 3.5-4 lb. If “release” and
and the hose to allow air in the hose to escape. “reset” are not within specifications, replace the
4. Fill the tool to the 0 line. check valve.
5. Wipe the tip of the tool to remove excess oil; then 4. Record the “release” and “reset” readings for the
attach the tool to the oil-supply hose and remove the valve; then perform the test on the other valve. The
bulb. “release” and “reset” readings must fall within speci-
fications and must be within 1.5 lb of each other. If
6. Secure the tool to the oil reservoir by twisting the either or both are not met, replace the check valves.
rubber strap one half turn and placing the rubber
strap around the tool and the oil reservoir filler neck. 5. If the check valves are within specifications but
oil-injection usage is not, replace the oil-injection
NOTE: To access the oil pump, the air intake boot pump.
must be removed.
NOTE: The control rod must be secured in the Idle
position. Secure the rod away from any moving parts Electric Oil Pump (6000)
to prevent misalignment of the control rod due to
engine/chassis movement.
REMOVING
! WARNING 1. Remove the right-side access panel; then remove the
Keep hands and clothing away from all moving or rotat- torx screw securing the right-side skid plate and
ing parts. secure it out of the way.
2. Using a handlebar stand, carefully tip the snowmo-
7. With the control rod secured in the Idle position, start bile onto the left side.
the engine and run the engine at recommended RPM
for 3 minutes. Compare the amount of oil used NOTE: When removing the oil pump assembly,
against the specifications listed. make sure the oil level is low enough so when the
pump is removed that oil does not leak out of the oil
Model RPM Full-Closed (Idle) 3 Minutes tank.
8000 1833 1.32-3.48 cc
4000 1833 1.0-2.5 cc
134
3. Remove all four hoses from the oil pump assembly; NOTE: If a new oil pump is being installed, be sure
then disconnect the oil pump harness and remove the to enter the A and B codes using the CATT II Tool.
two screws securing the oil pump to the oil tank.
SNO-1236A
CWI-112
4. Carefully remove the oil pump from the oil tank.

NOTE: Do not disassemble the oil pump as it will
Gas Tank
only be serviced as a assembly.
INSTALLING REMOVING
1. Install the pump assembly into the oil tank and align 1. Remove the hood, access panels, and seat.
with the two mounting holes; then secure the pump 2. Remove the lower console.
to the tank using the two screws (threads coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten to 60 in.-lb. 3. Disconnect the reverse alarm; then remove the two
machine screws securing the upper console. Remove
the console.
4. Remove and retain all cap screws securing the rear
spar tubes to the chassis and steering support.
Account for inserts and nuts.
SNO-356
2. Install the two clear smaller hoses to the smaller

front and rear terminals (A); then install the hose
from the center cavity of the crankcase to the top ter-
minal (B). Install the hose from the fuel rail to the
lower terminal (C). Secure using the existing clamps.
XM210A
SNO-355A
3. Secure the right-side skid plate using the existing XM212A
screw. 5. Disconnect the gasline hose, vent hose, and fuel

pump harness. Remove the gas tank.
4. Bleed the oil-injection system using the CATT II
tool. Instructions included with the tool.
135
XM211
XM210A
INSTALLING
1. Install the gas tank; then connect the gasline hose,
vent hose, and fuel pump harness.
2. Install the rear spar tubes and secure to the chassis
and steering support using the four cap screws.
XM212A
3. Connect the reverse alarm; then use the two machine

screws to secure the upper console.
4. Install the lower console; then install the seat, hood
and both access panels.
136
TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Remove the spark plugs and visually check their
Electrical Systems condition. Replace any fouled plug. Attach the spark
plugs to the high tension leads and ground them to
the engine.
All tests of the electrical components should be made
using the digital Fluke Model 77 Multimeter. Replace CAUTION
any component that does not have a test value within Before checking for spark, place all the engine switches
specifications. in the deactivated position. In the event the engine
NOTE: Whenever using a digital-style tester, “open could be flooded, engage the starter several times to
(infinite resistance)” denotes an overload and the clear the engine of excess fuel.
meter reading will be OL since the meter is not cali- CAUTION
brated to register resistance values of that magnitude.
Never crank the engine over without grounding the
NOTE: Always check the appropriate fuse before spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or CDI/ECM may
testing a component for failure. result.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch and the emer-
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec- gency stop switch are in the ON position.
essary.
2. Crank the engine over and check for spark. If no
SPECIAL TOOLS spark is present, check to make sure the throttle cable
A number of special tools must be available to the techni- is properly tensioned. Compress the throttle control
cian when servicing the electrical systems. and while holding the throttle control in this position,
crank the engine over and check for spark. If spark is
Description p/n now present, adjust the throttle cable tension.
CATT II 0544-023 TESTING
Arctic Cat Diagnostic System Manual 2256-974
Laptop Diagnostic Tool 0744-048 Throttle Control Switch
Actuator Test Harness 0644-518 1. Disconnect the handlebar harness connector; then
Fluke Model 77 Multimeter 0644-559 connect the ohmmeter leads as shown below.
MaxiClips 0744-041
Wire Wire
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment Tool Kit 3639-891
Black/White Black/Blue
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic 2. With the throttle lever in the idle position, the meter
Cat Service Parts Department. must read less than 1 ohm. If the meter reads OL
(infinite resistance), replace the control assembly.
3. Move the throttle lever to the wide open position.
Ignition System The meter must read OL (infinite resistance). If the
meter reads less than 1000 ohms, replace the control
NOTE: There must be 0.030-0.060 in. free-play assembly.
between the throttle lever and the control housing. 4. Connect the ohmmeter leads as shown below.
Wire Wire
Black/Blue Violet/Red
5. With the emergency stop switch in the off position,

the meter must read less than 1 ohm. If the meter
reads OL (infinite resistance), replace the control
assembly. With the emergency stop switch in the
(RUN) position, the meter must read OL (infinite
resistance). If the meter reads less than 1000 ohms,
replace the control assembly.
741-518B
137
NOTE: If at any point throughout the throttle range
the meter reads no voltage (open), hold the throttle
Throttle Position Sensor lever in that position. If the voltage does not return,
the throttle body must be replaced.
NOTE: Two-stroke engines equipped with a throttle 6. If the full-open throttle voltage remains erratic or out
position sensor have a protective feature called of specification, proceed to the appropriate Adjusting
“fail-safe” ignition timing preventing engine damage TPS.
should the TPS fail. If the TPS does fail, the engine
may run normally at low RPM but will run poorly at 7. If the TPS is within the prescribed specification, dis-
connect the adjustment tool harness from the TPS.
high RPM allowing the operator to get the snowmo- Connect the snowmobile TPS harness to the TPS.
bile to safety with no engine damage. The engine will
continue to operate this way until the TPS is adjusted NOTE: Before installing the TPS harness connector,
or replaced. apply dielectric grease to the connector pins.
CHECKING TPS ADJUSTING TPS
NOTE: If the snowmobile is in warranty, breaking NOTE: Adjusting the TPS is for out of warranty
the seal on the idle screw jam nut or the Phillips-head snowmobiles only.
screws on the TPS will void warranty. If the TPS is
tested out of specification, the throttle body must be 6000
replaced. If the snowmobile is out of warranty, pro- NOTE: On the 6000, the TPS should only be
ceed to Adjusting TPS. adjusted using the CATT II Tool. Instructions are
6000 included with the tool.
NOTE: On the 6000, the TPS should only be Idle Full-Open
checked using the CATT II Tool. Instructions will be 1.12v ± 0.075v 4.416v ± 0.15v
included with the tool.
4000/8000
4000/8000
NOTE: It is important that the throttle shaft is in
On the 4000/8000 before using the TPS adjustment tool, the completely closed position for this procedure.
verify its battery condition. The battery used in the tool is
a 9-volt battery. To check battery condition, use a digital 1. Disconnect the throttle cable/control arm from the
volt/ohmmeter set on DC volt scale. Test between the throttle shaft.
adjustment tool black and red jacks. Insert the red lead of
the digital voltmeter into the red jack of the adjustment 2. Rotate the idle screw counterclockwise until it no
tool and the black lead of the digital voltmeter into the longer contacts the throttle shaft stop. The throttle
black jack of the adjustment tool. The green power light shaft should now be completely closed. Open the
of the analyzer should now be illuminated. If voltage is throttle shaft by hand and release it, allowing the
found below 4.9 volts, replace the battery. shaft to gently snap closed several times.
NOTE: The Test Harness must be plugged into the 3. Disconnect the TPS wiring harness from the TPS;
analyzer for testing voltage. Always verify battery then using Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjust-
voltage is at least 4.9 DC volts before testing TPS. ment Tool, connect the appropriate wiring harness to
the TPS. Connect the red and black digital voltmeter
1. Using Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment leads to the white and black jacks of the TPS adjust-
Tool Kit, connect its wiring harness to the TPS. ment tool.
2. Connect the red and black digital voltmeter leads to 4. While observing the digital voltmeter, slowly rotate
the white and black jacks of the TPS adjustment tool. the sensor until the Full-Closed specification is
observed on the LCD of the multimeter. While hold-
3. Ensure that the throttle cable/control rod has the ing the sensor in this position, tighten the two screws
proper amount of free-play. which secure the sensor to the throttle body securely.
4. With the throttle in the idle position, compare the 5. Gently snap the throttle open and closed several
reading on the voltmeter to the chart. If the reading is times to check the TPS voltage. If it has changed
within prescribed specification, proceed to step 6. from the Full-Closed specification, loosen the two
screws which secure the sensor and make necessary
Model Idle Full-Open
adjustments.
8000 0.710-0.818 3.472-4.048
4000 0.646-0.754 3.472-4.485
6. With the full-closed position set to specification,
rotate the idle screw clockwise until it contacts the
5. Compress the throttle lever slowly to the full-open throttle shaft stop. Using the digital multimeter and
position. The meter reading should show a smooth test harness, rotate the idle screw inward until the
rise in voltage all the way to the full-open position. If Idle specification is observed.
the voltage seems to be erratic or doesn’t meet the NOTE: Rotate the idle screw past the recommended
prescribed specification, repeat this procedure sev- voltage specification by two or three volts; then rotate
eral times to confirm results.
the idle screw counterclockwise to the correct idle
position voltage.
138
7. With the idle position set to specification, slowly Removing
compress the throttle lever to the full-open position. 1. Rotate the idle screw counterclockwise until it no
The full-open specification should be observed. Gen- longer contacts the throttle shaft stop. The throttle
tly snap the throttle lever open and closed several shaft should now be completely closed.
times and note if the reading remains within the
specification. 2. Disconnect TPS wiring harness from the TPS; then
noting the position of the TPS, remove the two
NOTE: If, after adjusting the Throttle Position Sen- screws securing the TPS to the throttle body and
sor to the IDLE specification, the FULL-OPEN is less remove the sensor.
than the specified voltage, recheck the
FULL-CLOSED setting. If the FULL-CLOSED set- Installing
ting is correct, replace the sensor. 1. Install the new TPS onto the throttle shaft by align-
ing the “flats” on the throttle shaft cam with the
ANALYZER TOOL
Engine TPS TOOL (DC VOLTS)
(DC VOLTS) “flats” on the sensor; then rotate the sensor until
4000 Full-Closed 0.412-0.414
properly positioned on the throttle body.
Idle 0.710-0.818 0.710-0.818 NOTE: Before installing the TPS harness connector,
Full-Open 3.472-4.048 3.470-4.046 apply dielectric grease to the connector pins.
DIAGNOSTIC TOOL
2. Install the sensor to the throttle body. Do not tighten
8000 Full-Closed 0.412-0.414
at this time.
Idle 0.646-0.754 3.99° -6.66°
Full-Open 3.472-4.485 74.97°-89.37° 3. Adjust the TPS using the CATT II Tool.
REPLACING TPS (4000/8000)
NOTE: Replacing the TPS is for out of warranty Electrical Resistance Tests
snowmobiles only.
Removing NOTE: Replace any component that does not have a
1. Remove the expansion chamber and resonator. test value within specifications. If the component tests
satisfactorily but is suspected to be faulty, connect the
2. Rotate the idle screw counterclockwise until it no red meter lead to a component lead and the black
longer contacts the throttle shaft stop. The throttle meter lead to ground. Check for continuity between
shaft should now be completely closed. the component and ground. If continuity is observed,
3. Disconnect TPS wiring harness from the TPS; then replace the component.
noting the position of the TPS, remove the two
screws securing the TPS to the throttle body and NOTE: The following test should be made using
remove the sensor. MaxiClips and the Fluke Model 77 Multimeter set to
OHMS scale.
Installing
1. Apply a light film of silicone grease to the O-ring. CAUTION
Install the O-ring into the groove. Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-
tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.
2. Install the new TPS onto the throttle shaft by align-
ing the “flats” on the throttle shaft cam with the Charge Coil (1)
“flats” on the sensor; then rotate the sensor until
properly positioned on the throttle body. 1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the main har-
ness to the magneto.
3. Install the sensor to the throttle body. Do not tighten
at this time. 2. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire in
the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
4. Adjust the TPS (see appropriate Adjusting TPS in green/red wire in the plug.
this sub-section).
3. Resistance must be 8.8-13.2 ohms.
NOTE: Before installing the TPS harness connector,
Charge Coil (2)
apply dielectric grease to the connector pins.
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the main har-
5. Disconnect the adjustment tool harness from the ness to the magneto.
TPS. Connect the snowmobile TPS harness to the
newly installed or adjusted TPS. 2. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white wire
in the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
6. Install the resonator and expansion chamber. green/red wire in the plug.
REPLACING TPS (6000) 3. Resistance must be 8.8-13.2 ohms.
NOTE: Replacing the TPS is for out of warranty Fuel Pump Coil
snowmobiles only.
NOTE: With the engine running, there should
14.5-17.5 DC volts supplied to the fuel pump for oper-
ation.
139
1. Test between the two orange wires in the four-prong Ignition Switch
connector from the magneto.
NOTE: The console must be removed to access the
2. Resistance must be 1.52-2.28 ohms. ignition switch.
Injection Coil 1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from
1. Test between the two blue/white leads in the the ignition switch.
four-prong connector harness from the magneto. 2. Rotate the key to the OFF position.
2. Resistance must be 15.2-22.8 ohms. 3. Resistance must read less than 1 ohm between the
Lighting Coil ignition switch terminals.
1. Disconnect the main harness from the magneto. 4. Rotate the key to the RUN position. The meter must
read OL (infinite resistance).
2. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow
leads in the connector from the engine. Fuel Injector
3. Resistance must be 0.08-0.12 ohm. 1. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness; then set
the meter to the OHMS position.
Ignition Timing Sensor (4000)
2. Test between the two injector terminals. Resistance
1. Disconnect timing sensors 1 and 2 (green/white and must be 10-14 ohms (4000/8000) or 11.4-12.6 ohms
brown/green) from the main harness. (6000).
2. Connect the meter leads to the sensor leads. 3. If not within specifications, replace the injector.
3. Resistance must be 80.8-121 ohms. NOTE: When replacing the injector on the 6000, the
Ignition Timing Sensor (6000/8000) A and B codes must be entered using the CATT II Tool.
1. Disconnect timing sensors 1 and 2 (green/white and
brown/green) from the main harness.
2. Connect the meter leads to the sensor leads.
3. Resistance must be 148-222 ohms.
Ignition Coil (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the main har-
ness to the ignition coil.
2. Connect the red meter lead to the orange/black
(4000) or black/white (6000/8000) lead; then con-
nect the black meter lead to the orange/red (4000) or
white/blue (6000/8000) lead.
SNO-1235A
3. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between Exhaust Temperature Sensor
0.24-0.36 ohm.
1. Disconnect the sensor harness; then remove the sen-
Ignition Coil (Secondary) (4000) sor from the exhaust pipe.
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires. 2. Suspend the sensor (only up to the threads) in a con-
tainer filled with automatic transmission oil; then
2. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension wire; slowly heat the oil on a hot plate.
then connect the black meter lead to ground.
3. Using a fluid thermometer, closely monitor the oil
3. Resistance must be 6800-10,200 ohms. temperature, and using a digital multimeter with the
leads connected to the sensor leads, observe the
Ignition Coil (Secondary) (6000/8000) resistance reading.
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension 4. The sensor must read as shown (see chart).
wires.
2. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension wire; °F °C ohms
then connect the black meter lead to ground.
77 25 219.6
3. Resistance must be 5040-7560 ohms. 122 50 238.5
Spark-Plug Cap 212 100 275.9
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension 302 150 312.7
wires.
Coolant Temperature Sensor
2. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end of
the spark-plug cap. 1. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring
harness from the main harness.
3. Resistance must be 4000-6000 ohms.
140
2. Test the resistance between the two leads from the 6000
sensor. 1. Remove the right-side access panel; then remove the
3. Compare the resistance reading to the Voltage/Resis- lower console from the right-side skid plate and
tance Chart - Coolant Temperature in this section. secure out of the way.
Air Temperature Sensor 2. For the DC voltage test, connect the red meter lead to
the red/blue wire in the accessory connector; then
NOTE: The component temperature must be connect the black meter lead to the black wire in the
known before conducting this test. Allow the engine to connector.
reach room temperature.
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the air tempera-
ture sensor.
2. Test the sensor connector. Compare with the Volt-
age/Resistance Chart - Air Temperature in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: The air temperature sensor utilizes a therm-
istor. Resistance will change as temperature varies.
Testing Electric Oil Pump

(6000) XM412A
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Meter reading

1. Remove the right-side access panel; then remove the must be within 9-15 DC volts.
lower console from the skid plate. Disconnect the oil 8000
pump connector.
1. Remove the both access panels and the hood; then
remove the harness wrap around the main harness
wires near the resonator.
2. Disconnect the three-wire connector securing the
main harness to the voltage regulator.
3. For the DC voltage test, connect the red meter lead to
the red/blue wire in the three-wire connector; then
connect the black meter lead to the brown wire in the
connector.
NOTE: Make sure that the test is being done on the
wires coming from the regulator and not the main
harness.
CWI-109A
4. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Meter reading
2. Set the selector to the OHMS position. must be within 9-15 DC volts.
3. Test between the two terminals. Resistance must be 5. For the AC voltage test, remove the lower console
1.75-1.95 ohms. from the right-side skid plate and secure out of the
NOTE: If replacing the oil pump, the A and B codes way.
must be entered using the CATT II Tool. The pump 6. Connect the red meter lead to the yellow wire in the
must also be primed using the CATT II Tool. connector; then connect the black meter lead to the
brown wire in the connector.
Testing Voltage Regulator
NOTE: The following test should be made using a

Fluke Model 77 Multimeter.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are suf-
ficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, espe-
cially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with
all electrical connections after the engine has been
started.
XM410A
141
7. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Meter reading SERVICE ICON
must be within 9-15 AC volts. The Service Icon is controlled by the CCU/ECM and
4000 may illuminate for a number of reasons. The icon should
illuminate or illuminates each time the engine is started,
1. Remove the right-side access panel; then remove the and it should go out after a few seconds. If the icon stays
lower console from the right-side skid plate and illuminated while the engine is running, the CCU/ECM is
secure out of the way. receiving input that is outside of its established parame-
2. Connect the red MaxiClip and meter lead to the ters.
red/blue lead of the connector; then connect the Accessing CCU Codes
black MaxiClip and meter lead to the black lead of
the connector. 1. Connect the appropriate harness from CCU Diagnos-
tic Test Kit to the diagnostic port.
2. Start the engine. After approximately 5 seconds, the
service icon on the gauge will begin flashing.
3. The readout screen will display an error code as
CCU followed by a number (refer to the CCU Diag-
nostic Codes chart for descriptions). When all error
codes have been output, the service icon flashes
twice quickly.
CCU Diagnostic Codes

Code Trouble Cause
CCU 32 High power DC output Headlight and Hand Warmer
over current. (Red/Black) circuit current greater than
XM411A 20 Amps.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Meter reading CCU 33 High power DC output Headlight and Hand Warmer
shorted. (Red/Black) circuit shorted to ground.
must be within 9-15 DC volts.
CCU 34 Low power DC Gauge, Taillight, and APV Servo Power
NOTE: If tests failed, check all connections, and output over current. (Red/Blue) circuit current greater than
20 Amps.
fuses, etc., and test again. If no voltage is present, CCU 35 Low power DC output Gauge, Taillight, and APV Servo Power
replace the stator assembly. shorted. (Red/Blue) circuit shorted to ground.
CCU 37 System over voltage. Spike in battery voltage - excessive
gear case shifting.
Chassis Control Unit CCU 38 Gear shift actuator

failure.
Wires to reverse actuator damaged or
shorted to ground.
(CCU)/Codes (4000) CCU 42 Tachometer input Tachometer signal wire shorted to
failure (engine running ground.
- no tachometer signal
present).
The CCU distributes regulated DC power to the chassis
CCU 43 Gear position switch Gear position switch damaged or
electrical systems and controls the forward/reverse shift- failure. unplugged - reverse actuator not
ing of the ACT drive to ensure safe operation. working correctly.
CCU 44 CCU over Internal CCU temperature over 105° C
The CCU has two DC outputs used for lighting circuits. temperature. (221° F).
Both outputs have a circuit breaker (self resetting
devices) protecting components from over-current and Clearing Fault Codes
short circuit situations. If a system stops working, a short 1. Connect the appropriate harness from CCU Diagnos-
has likely occurred and the system has shut itself off tic Test Kit to the diagnostic port.
much like a fuse will blow if a circuit is shorted to
ground. However, unlike a fuse if the short is resolved, 2. Start the engine; then press and hold the shift button
the CCU will reset the output and the system will return for 5 seconds.
to normal operation. NOTE: Two quick flashes of the service icon indi-
The first output, labeled the High Power DC Output, sup- cate the codes have been cleared.
plies power for the headlights and hand-warmers and is
on only while the engine is running. This output is turned
off during shifting to allow maximum power transfer to Testing Oil Level Sensor
the ACT drive.
The second output, labeled the Low Power DC Output,
supplies power to the gauge, speed sensor, taillight, The oil level sensor is a magnetic switch. Its operation is
accessory plugs, and APV servomotor via the Engine based on a magnet located in the float. The switch
Control Unit. This output is on only while the engine is located in the stem of the sending unit is positioned
running. It is not turned off during shifting. through the hole in the float. When the float drops to the
lower part of the stem, the magnet closes the electrical
NOTE: If the engine will not run, the problem is not contacts (located in the stem) allowing the current to pass
related to the CCU. on to the warning light.
142
2. Set the selector to the OHMS position.
3. Connect one tester lead to one pin; then connect the
other tester lead to the other pin.
PC256
1. Verify the oil level is below the float; then remove

the sensor from the oil reservoir by twisting and pull-
ing out. Wipe excess oil from the sensor.
2. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness. PC253A
4. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter must

3. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position. read less than 1 ohm resistance.
4. Touch each of the meter leads to one of the terminals 5. With the switch in the RUN position, the meter must
on the sensor. With the sensor in its normal position read OL (infinite resistance).
(float end down), the meter should read less than 1
ohm. NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified, trou-
bleshoot or replace the switch/component, the connec-
5. If the meter reads greater than 1 ohm, check to make tor, or the switch wiring harness.
sure good contact has been made with each of the
terminals on the sensor. If the meter still reads
greater than 1 ohm, replace the sensor.
Starter Relay Solenoid
6. While maintaining contact between the meter leads
and the sensor, raise the float. The meter must read
OL (infinite resistance). If the meter reads less than 1 TESTING
ohm, replace the sensor.
NOTE: The electric start solenoid may be tested
7. If the sensor tests satisfactory but the icon doesn’t using either one of the following methods.
illuminate with only a small amount of oil in the res-
ervoir, verify the icon illuminates on start-up. Method #1
1. Disconnect the solenoid connector from the main
wiring harness.
Testing Fuel Gauge Sender 2. Place the ohmmeter leads across the solenoid coil
terminals. The ohmmeter must read 3-5 ohms.
NOTE: Before testing the sender, verify the harness NOTE: An in-line ammeter would measure between
from the sender to the gauge is satisfactory. 2 and 4 amps of solenoid coil current flow with the
battery connected.
1. Remove the hood.
2. Disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit from the main CAUTION
wiring harness; then connect the ohmmeter leads to NEVER connect an in-line ammeter with the large
the two blue sender wires. starter cables because the 200 amps of current flow will
instantly damage most ammeters.
3. Compare the reading to the chart following.
Method #2
Full <20 ohms
1/2 40-56 ohms 1. Using the multimeter set to the DC Voltage position,
Empty 76-105 ohms
check the relay as follows.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery ter-
minal; then connect the black tester lead to the starter
Emergency Stop Switch cable connection on the starter relay. The meter must
show battery voltage.
NOTE: Engage the brake lever lock and place the
RESISTANCE emergency stop switch in the RUN position.
1. Remove the four torx-head cap screws securing the
front/rear throttle control housing assembly to the 3. Engage the starter while observing the multimeter.
handlebar. The multimeter should drop to 0 volts and a “click”
should be heard from the relay.
143
NOTE: If a “click” is heard and more than 1 volt is If battery voltage is present at the plug-in and the starter
indicated by the multimeter, replace the starter relay. fails to activate, use the following procedure:
If no “click” is heard and the multimeter continues to
indicate battery voltage, proceed to step 4. 1. With the ignition switch plugged in, place the emer-
gency stop switch to the OFF position.
4. Disconnect the two-wire plug from the starter relay; 2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/yellow wire;
then connect the red tester lead to the green wire and then connect the black tester lead to a suitable
the black tester lead to the black wire. ground.
5. Depress the starter button and observe the multime- 3. Rotate the key to the START position and verify bat-
ter. tery voltage.
NOTE: If battery voltage is indicated, replace the
NOTE: If no battery voltage is present, troubleshoot
starter relay. If no voltage is indicated, check fuse or the harness and/or the starter relay solenoid.
relay.
Fuse Starter Motor
NOTE: The starter motor does not need to be

TESTING removed in order to replace the pinion gear.
1. Remove the fuse from the fuse holder.
REMOVING (8000)
2. Connect the ohmmeter across the fuse end-caps. 1. Remove the seat and disconnect the battery; then
3. The ohmmeter must read less than 1 ohm of resis- remove the hood and both access panels.
tance. 2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber
and resonator.
Ignition Switch 3. Remove both torx-head screws securing the front
fascia pieces; then disconnect the ECM and remove
TESTING the fascia and ECM as an assembly.
CAUTION 4. Remove the two cap screws and nuts securing the
shock mount support bracket to the chassis; then
To prevent ohmmeter damage when testing circuits on remove the mount and servomotor up and out of the
snowmobiles equipped with an electric start, be sure to way.
disconnect the battery before testing.
1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition
switch; then remove the switch from the console.
2. Using the ohmmeter, test the connections indicated
in the following chart. If the meter reads more than
one ohm of resistance between connected terminals
or less than 1 ohm of resistance on non-connected
terminals, the switch must be replaced.
XM039A
5. Disconnect both injector wires from the injectors;

then remove the four clamps securing the throttle
bodies.
6. Disconnect the oil pump rod from the throttle bodies;
then remove and plug the PTO-side coolant hose
from the throttle bodies. Lift up the throttle bodies
and set out of the way.
746-238A
7. Remove the throttle body boot from the chassis.
NOTE: If the ignition switch tests good, verify bat-
tery voltage to the harness side of the switch plug-in. 8. Remove the positive battery cable from the starter
motor.
If there is no voltage, troubleshoot the battery, switch
fuse, or starter relay solenoid.
144
SNO-574
SNO-573
9. Remove the eight cap screws securing the MAG side
of the starter motor to the starter motor retaining REMOVING (6000)
plate. Account for the negative battery cable and 1. Remove the seat and disconnect the battery; then
external tooth washer. remove the hood and both access panels.
2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber
and resonator.
3. Remove the two screws (A) securing the heat shield
to the chassis; then remove the heat shield from the
shield.
SNO-352A
10. Remove the two cap screws (A) and one Allen-head
screw (B) securing the starter motor to the starter
motor mounting bracket. Remove the starter.
EL-001A

ing the right and left-side fascia panels to the chassis.
Remove the panels and ECM as an assembly.
XM044A
11. If the starter motor is being replaced, remove the

snap rings securing the starter motor gear to the
starter motor shaft. Remove the gear.
EL-002A

shock mount bracket support to the shock mount
port.
145
1. Attach a black jumper cable to a good ground on the
starter.
2. Attach the opposite end of the black jumper cable to
the negative post of a good 12V battery.
3. Attach the red jumper cable to the positive post of
the battery.
4. Holding the starter firmly down on a work bench,
touch the red jumper cable to the positive cable stud
of the starter.
! WARNING
EL-003A
Be sure to keep clear of the pinion gear area as it will
6. Remove idle speed control (ISC) hoses (A) from the spin at a high RPM when the red cable is touched to the
top of the throttle bodies; then disconnect the ISC positive stud. Personal injury may result if contact is
from the main harness (B). Remove the screws (C) made with a spinning pinion.
securing the ISC; then remove the ISC. NOTE: The starter motor must instantly spin at a
high RPM. On the 6000 the pinion must snap out
against the stopper. If the motor does not spin, remove
the red cable immediately. Check the battery condi-
tion and all connections.
INSTALLING (8000)
1. Secure the starter motor to the starter motor mount-
ing bracket using two cap screws (A) (threads coated
with blue Loctite #243 and one Allen-head screw (B)
(threads coated with blue Loctite #243). Tighten the
Allen-head screw (B) to 25 ft-lb. Tighten the cap
screws (A) to 25 ft-lb.
EL-006A
7. Loosen the four clamps securing the throttle body;

then lift up the throttle body and disconnect the cool-
ant lines. Set the throttle body up and out of the way.
8. Remove the intake boot from the chassis.
9. Remove the cable ties (A) securing the positive cable
to the starter motor; then remove the nut securing the
positive cable.
10. Remove the four cap screws (B) securing the starter
motor to the engine.
XM044A
2. Secure the MAG-side of the starter motor to the

retaining plate using the eight cap screws (threads
coated with blue Loctite #243). The washer and neg-
ative battery cable must be installed in the upper
location. Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
CWI-108A
TESTING STARTER MOTOR

NOTE: Before installing the starter motor, perform
test to ensure proper operation using the following
procedure.
SNO-352
146
3. Install inner snap ring onto the starter motor (if 11. Connect both battery cables to the battery making
removed during removing); then install the gear and sure both are secure; then install the seat.
secure using outer snap ring making sure both snap
rings are fully seated. INSTALLING (6000)
1. Secure the starter motor using the existing four cap
screws (B) (threads coated with blue Loctite #243).
SNO-573
4. Secure the positive battery cable to the starter motor

and tighten to 72 in.-lb; then install the red cap over
the terminal. CWI-108A
2. Secure the positive battery cable to the starter motor

using the existing nut. Tighten to 72 in-lb. Secure
using a cable ties (A).
3. Install and position the intake boot; then secure the
throttle body to the coolant lines using the existing
clamps. Tighten securely.
4. Install the throttle body into the intake flanges and
the intake boot. Secure using existing clamps.
5. Install the idle speed control (ISC) hoses (A) to the top
of the throttle bodies; then secure the ISC using the
screws (C). Connect the ISC to the main harness (B).
SNO-574
5. Install the throttle body boot; then install the throttle

bodies making sure to connect the PTO-side coolant
hose, oil pump rod, and injection connections.
6. Secure the throttle bodies using four existing clamps.
7. Install the shock mount support bracket to the chassis
using existing cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
EL-006A
6. Position the shock mount bracket support and secure

using the existing cap screws and nuts. Tighten to 20
ft-lb.
XM038A
8. Secure the ECM and front fascia assembly to the

chassis using the existing self-tapping screws.
Tighten securely.
9. Install the resonator and expansion chamber and
secure using existing springs.
10. Install the hood, left-, and right-side access panels. EL-003A
147
7. Secure the ECM and front fascia assembly to the
chassis using the existing self-tapping screws.
Tighten securely.
8. Install the resonator and expansion chamber and
secure using existing springs.
9. Install the hood, left-, and right-side access panels.
10. Connect both battery cables to the battery making
sure both are secure; then install the seat.
DISASSEMBLING PINION (6000)
NOTE: This procedure does not require the starter
motor to be removed from the snowmobile. XM394
1. Remove the drive clutch. 3. Install the pinion stop tool over the spring and in
between the pinion stop and the pinion spring
2. Remove the two set screws securing the pinion stop retainer.
assembly to the pinion shaft.
XM395
SNO-352
4. Using a 17 mm socket, remove the nut and washer
3. Place a 12 mm socket over the end of the pinion shaft from the pinion shaft noting that the pinion shaft has
and tap the socket gently with a hammer to dislodge reverse thread.
the snap-ring retainer and expose the snap ring.
4. Using a suitable pliers and flat-head screw driver,
remove and discard the snap ring.
5. Remove the snap-ring retainer (note end-for-end ori-
entation), pinion spring, spring retainer, and pinion
gear. Retain all components.
DISASSEMBLING PINION (8000)
NOTE: This procedure does not require the starter
motor to be removed from the snowmobile.
1. Remove the drive clutch.
2. Install the correct side of the pinion wrench over the
spring and onto the pinion gear aligning the grooves XM396
in the wrench with the teeth on the pinion gear. 5. Remove both special tools, pinion stop, spring, and
spring retainer; then remove the pinion gear.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING PINION
1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease from the
pinion gear. Dry with compressed air.
! WARNING
When using compressed air to dry components, always
wear safety glasses.
2. Inspect the pinion gear for wear. If the gear is worn

or chipped, replace the pinion assembly.
3. Inspect the inner gear and housing. If the gear shows
any signs of wear, replace the pinion assembly.
XM393
148
4. Inspect the inner housing for tightness and cracks. If NOTE: Make sure the pinion stop is able to be
the housing shows any signs of being loose or pushed in and rotated freely when the nut is torqued.
cracked, replace the pinion assembly.
3. Remove the wrench and install the drive clutch.
5. Inspect the pinion return spring for wear. If the Tighten to 51 ft-lb.
spring shows any worn areas, replace the spring.
ASSEMBLING PINION (6000)
1. With low-temperature grease applied to the threads of Troubleshooting Electric
the pinion shaft, slide the pinion gear, spring retainer, Start
pinion spring, and snap-ring retainer (note end-for-end
orientation) onto the shaft in their original positions.
2. Place new snap ring over the end of the pinion shaft; Problem: Hot or Smoking Wires
then using a 14 mm socket and a hammer, gently tap Condition Remedy
the snap ring into the groove on the shaft making 1. System wired incor- 1. Check wiring against wiring
sure the gap in the snap ring is directed upward. rectly diagram
Problem: Starter Does Not Turn Over
3. Pull the pinion stop over the snap ring to lock it in
Condition Remedy
place making sure the snap ring gap is installed
between 30° and 150° of the set screw centerline (0°). 1. Battery discharged 1. Check/charge the battery
2. Connection loose 2. Check tightness of all con-
nections
3. Grounding improper 3. Check ground connections
4. Fuse blown - not 4. Check - replace fuse
installed
Ignition Timing
NOTE: The ignition timing is not adjustable, but on

the 4000/8000 it can be checked and/or verified.
CHECKING
1. Connect a timing light to the MAG-side spark plug
SNO-589A
lead.
4. Apply red Loctite to the set screws; then install one 2. Using a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the
of the screws and tighten to 8-12 in.-lb. Install the snowmobile off the floor and start the engine. Gradu-
other screw and tighten to 31-35 in.-lb and tighten ally increase the engine speed to 2000 RPM; with the
the first screw again to 31-35 in.-lb. engine warm the pointer should align with the proper
5. Install the drive clutch. Tighten to 51 ft-lb. timing mark on the flywheel.
ASSEMBLING PINION (8000) BTDC - 16.5° - 0.072”

1. With low-temperature grease applied to the threads 8000
of the pinion shaft, slide the pinion gear, spring
retainer, pinion spring, and pinion stop (note
end-for-end orientation) onto the shaft in their origi-
nal positions.
2. Loosely secure the components from step 1 using the
washer and nut (threads coated with red Loctite
#271); then install the pinion gear wrench onto the
pinion gear and tighten the nut to 30 ft-lb.
0746-516
XM394
149
BTDC - 13° - 0.040"
4000
XM206
INSTALLING
1. Press the switch into the brake lever assembly mak-
ing sure it is fully seated.
2. Position the O-ring into the reservoir; then secure the
reservoir to the piston assembly using the existing
screws. Tighten securely.
0744-905
3. Connect the switch harness to the main wiring har-
ness. Position the wires so they will not be either
Brakelight Switch pinched or come in contact with any moving compo-
nents. Start the engine and check the switch for
proper operation.
TESTING/REMOVING
1. Disconnect the brakelight switch gray and brown
two-wire connector (located near the brake lever). Headlight Dimmer Switch
2. To test the brakelight switch, connect one tester lead
to the brown terminal; then connect the other lead to REMOVING/TESTING
the black terminal. 1. Remove the four screws securing the left-side han-
3. With the brake lever compressed, the meter must dlebar control assembly; then remove the control
read 1 ohm or less resistance. With the brake lever assembly from the handlebar.
released, the meter must read OL (open). If the meter 2. Disconnect the HI/LO beam harness from the switch.
does not read as specified, the brakelight switch is
defective and must be replaced. 3. With the switch in the LO beam position, connect
one ohmmeter lead to pin (A) and the other ohmme-
4. To remove the switch, remove all brake fluid from ter lead to pin (C). The meter must read 1 ohm or less
the reservoir; then remove the torx-head screws resistance.
securing the reservoir to the piston assembly; then
pry the brake switch from the piston assembly.
CM109A
XM207
4. With the switch in the HI beam position, connect one
ohmmeter lead to pin (B) and the other ohmmeter
lead to pin (C). The meter must read 1 ohm or less
resistance.
NOTE: If either test does not read within specifica-
tion, replace the complete control assembly.
150
INSTALLING 6. Connect the leads; then install and secure the
1. Connect the HI/LO beam harness to the switch; then right-side handlebar control assembly.
place the control assembly on the handlebar.
2. Secure with the four screws. Testing Handlebar
Warmer/Thumb Warmer
Testing Handlebar Warmer Switch
Elements
REMOVING/TESTING
NOTE: Resistance will vary due to temperature; 1. Remove the four screws securing the left-side han-
therefore, this test should be made at room tempera- dlebar control assembly; then remove the control
ture of 20° C (68° F). assembly from the handlebar.
NOTE: To access the element connectors, the han- 2. Disconnect the handlebar/thumb warmer harness
dlebar control assembly for the side being tested must from the switch.
be removed. 3. With the thumb warmer toggle in the low position,
connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the other
1. Disconnect the handlebar warmer three-wire connec- ohmmeter lead to pin (B). The meter must read 1
tor. ohm or less resistance.
2. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter
lead to the green/white lead; then connect the other
ohmmeter lead to the green lead.
3. The meter must read between 12.6-15.4 ohms.
4. In the element connector, connect the ohmmeter
between the green/blue and green lead wires.
5. The meter must read between 6.3-7.7 ohms.
6. Replace any element measuring less than or more
than the specified amount.
NOTE: Repeat test for the other element.
7. Connect the leads; then install the handlebar control CM110A
assembly. 4. With the thumb warmer toggle in the high position,
connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the other
ohmmeter lead to pin (A). The meter must read 1
Testing Thumb Warmer ohm or less resistance.
Element NOTE: If either test does not read within specifica-
tion, replace the complete control assembly.
NOTE: Resistance will vary due to temperature; 5. With the hand-warmer toggle in the low position,
therefore, this test should be made at room tempera- connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the other
ture of 20° C (68° F). ohmmeter lead to pin (D). The meter must read 1
ohm or less resistance.
NOTE: To access the element connector, the
right-side handlebar control assembly must be 6. With the hand-warmer toggle in the high position,
removed. connect one ohmmeter lead to pin (C) and the other
ohmmeter lead to pin (E). The meter must read 1
1. Disconnect the thumb warmer three-wire connector. ohm or less resistance.
2. In the element connector, connect one ohmmeter NOTE: If either test does not read within specifica-
lead to the green/white lead; then connect the other tion, replace the complete control assembly.
ohmmeter lead to the green lead.
INSTALLING
3. The meter must read between 1.5 and 6.9 ohms. 1. Connect the handlebar/thumb warmer harness to the
4. In the element connector, connect the ohmmeter switch; then place the control assembly on the han-
between the green/blue lead and the green lead. dlebar.
5. The meter must read between 5.5 and 23.0 ohms. 2. Secure with the four screws.
NOTE: If either test is not within specification,
replace the thumb warmer element.
151
Testing Speedometer
Sensor
NOTE: The following test should be made using

MaxiClips and the Fluke Model 77 Multimeter set to
the DC Volt scale.
NOTE: Prior to testing the sensor, inspect the
three-wire connector on the sensor harness for con-
tamination, broken pins, and/or corrosion. With the
engine running, note that a power supply of 10.8-14.4
DC volts exists at the main harness/speedometer con- PC253B
nector. 3. With the reverse button pressed in, the meter must
read less than 1 ohm of resistance. With the reverse
button released, the meter must read OL (infinite
resistance).
NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified in
either test, the switch is defective and must be
replaced.
Testing
Servomotor/Potentiometer
SERVOMOTOR
XM208A
1. Elevate the rear of the snowmobile onto a suitable NOTE: A 12-volt battery and test leads will be
safety stand. needed for this test.
2. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 1. Remove the servomotor from the snowmobile.
3. At the sensor side of the plug-in, connect the red CAUTION

MaxiClip and meter lead to the white/orange lead; Care must be taken not to contact the servo yellow,
then connect the black MaxiClip and meter lead to orange, or black/white terminals, or damage to the
the black lead. potentiometer circuit will result.
4. Connect a positive 12-volt DC power supply to the
red/blue wire; then connect a negative cable to the 2. Contact the red/black servo terminal with the battery
black wire from the main harness side of the plug-in. positive lead; then contact the black/red servo termi-
nal with the battery negative lead.
5. Rotate the driven clutch. The meter must read 0 volts
and 12 volts alternately. 3. The servo should rotate when the negative lead con-
tacts the black/red terminal. Note the direction of
rotation.
Testing Shift Switch 4. Reverse the connections on the servo terminals: pos-
itive lead to black/red and negative lead to red/black.
The servomotor should rotate in the opposite direc-
NOTE: The switch is located on the right-side han- tion.
dlebar control. To access the switch, the control 5. Install the servomotor.
assembly must be disassembled.
NOTE: If the servo operates correctly in the above
1. Disconnect the two-wire connector from the handle- test but fails to operate when connected to the
bar control. ECM/regulator/rectifier at the designated RPM, pro-
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to one pin; then connect ceed to Potentiometer test.
the other ohmmeter lead to the other pin.
POTENTIOMETER
NOTE: The following test should be made using
MaxiClips and the Fluke Model 77 Multimeter set to
the ohms scale.
1. Remove the servomotor from the snowmobile.
152
2. Connect the red MaxiClip and meter lead to the
black/white servo terminal; then connect the black
MaxiClip and meter lead to the yellow servo termi-
nal.
3. Rotate the servo clutch counterclockwise. The ohms
should increase as the clutch is rotated until it
reaches 4700-5000 ohms.
4. Continue the clutch rotation, and there will be a
small area in the rotation where the ohm reading will
disappear; then it will return again.
5. Continue the clutch rotation, and the ohms should
appear at a very low value but will again increase to
4700-5000 ohms. This is normal operation. FZ088A
6. Install the servomotor.

NOTE: If the servo operates correctly and the
potentiometer test is correct but fails to operate when
connected to the ECM/regulator/rectifier at the desig-
nated RPM, see Troubleshooting Servomotor chart in
this section.
153
Troubleshooting
Servomotor
SERVO1A16
154
SERVO2rv16
155
Voltage/Resistance Chart - Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Air Temperature (8000) Air Temperature (6000)
Temperature Volts Ohms Temperature Volts Ohms Temperature Volts Ohms Temperature Volts Ohms
100° C 212° F 0.113 555 28° C 82° F 1.230 8540 100° C 212° F 0.68 182.6 28° C 82° F 3.03 1801
98° C 208° F 0.121 595 26° C 79° F 1.322 9530 98° C 208° F 0.71 192.5 26° C 79° F 3.12 1943
96° C 205° F 0.128 635 24° C 75° F 1.413 10520 96° C 205° F 0.74 202.9 24° C 75° F 3.21 2097
94° C 201° F 0.136 675 22° C 72° F 1.505 11510 94° C 201° F 0.77 214.1 22° C 72° F 3.30 2265
92° C 198° F 0.143 715 20° C 68° F 1.596 12500 92° C 198° F 0.81 225.9 20° C 68° F 3.38 2447
90° C 194° F 0.151 755 18° C 64° F 1.716 14020 90° C 194° F 0.84 238.5 18° C 64° F 3.47 2636
88° C 190° F 0.162 819 16° C 61° F 1.836 15540 88° C 190° F 0.88 251.9 16° C 61° F 3.56 2862
86° C 187° F 0.173 883 14° C 57° F 1.955 17060 86° C 187° F 0.92 266.2 14° C 57° F 3.64 3118
84° C 183° F 0.184 947 12° C 54° F 2.075 18580 84° C 183° F 0.97 281.6 12° C 54° F 3.72 3402
82° C 180° F 0.195 1011 10° C 50° F 2.195 20100 82° C 180° F 1.01 298.1 10° C 50° F 3.80 3714
80° C 176° F 0.206 1075 8° C 46° F 2.323 23060 80° C 176° F 1.06 315.7 8° C 46° F 3.88 4054
78° C 172° F 0.222 1160 6° C 43° F 2.452 26020 78° C 172° F 1.11 334.7 6° C 43° F 3.95 4425
76° C 169° F 0.238 1245 4° C 39° F 2.580 28980 76° C 169° F 1.16 355.0 4° C 39° F 4.02 4832
74° C 165° F 0.253 1330 2° C 36° F 2.709 31940 74° C 165° F 1.22 376.9 2° C 36° F 4.09 5280
72° C 162° F 0.269 1415 0° C 32° F 2.837 34900 72° C 162° F 1.27 400.4 0° C 32° F 4.16 5774
70° C 158° F 0.285 1500 -2° C 28° F 2.969 39940 70° C 158° F 1.33 425.7 -2° C 28° F 4.22 6321
68° C 154° F 0.308 1640 -4° C 25° F 3.101 44980 68° C 154° F 1.39 452.9 -4° C 25° F 4.28 6928
66° C 151° F 0.331 1780 -6° C 21° F 3.233 50020 66° C 151° F 1.46 482.2 -6° C 21° F 4.34 7605
64° C 147° F 0.353 1920 -8° C 18° F 3.365 55060 64° C 147° F 1.53 513.8 -8° C 18° F 4.39 8360
62° C 144° F 0.376 2060 -10° C 14° F 3.497 60100 62° C 144° F 1.60 547.8 -10° C 14° F 4.44 9202
60° C 140° F 0.399 2200 -12° C 10° F 3.610 76080 60° C 140° F 1.67 584.4 -12° C 10° F 4.49 10141
58° C 136° F 0.432 2410 -14° C 7° F 3.722 92060 58° C 136° F 1.74 623.9 -14° C 7° F 4.53 11191
56° C 133° F 0.465 2620 -16° C 3° F 3.835 108040 56° C 133° F 1.82 666.6 -16° C 3° F 4.57 12364
54° C 129° F 0.498 2830 -18° C -0.4° F 3.947 124020 54° C 129° F 1.89 712.6 -18° C -0.4° F 4.61 13675
52° C 126° F 0.531 3040 -20° C -4° F 4.060 140000 52° C 126° F 1.97 762.3 -20° C -4° F 4.64 15141
50° C 122° F 0.564 3250 -22° C -8° F 4.142 156000 50° C 122° F 2.06 815.9 -22° C -8° F 4.67 16780
48° C 118° F 0.612 3595 -24° C -11° F 4.224 172000 48° C 118° F 2.14 874 -24° C -11° F 4.70 18615
46° C 115° F 0.659 3940 -26° C -15° F 4.306 188000 46° C 115° F 2.22 936.8 -26° C -15° F 4.73 20672
44° C 111° F 0.707 4285 -28° C -18° F 4.388 204000 44° C 111° F 2.31 1004 -28° C -18° F 4.75 22980
42° C 108° F 0.754 4630 -30° C -22° F 4.470 220000 42° C 108° F 2.40 1078 -30° C -22° F 4.77 25572
40° C 104° F 0.802 4975 -32° C -26° F 4.522 261000 40° C 104° F 2.49 1158 -32° C -26° F 4.79 28486
38° C 100° F 0.869 5490 -34° C -29° F 4.574 302000 38° C 100° F 2.58 1244 -34° C -29° F 4.81 31769
36° C 97° F 0.937 6005 -36° C -32° F 4.625 343000 36° C 97° F 2.67 1338 -36° C -32° F 4.83 35471
34° C 93° F 1.004 6520 -38° C -36° F 4.677 384000 34° C 93° F 2.76 1440 -38° C -36° F 4.85 39650
32° C 90° F 1.072 7035 -40° C -40° F 4.729 425000 32° C 90° F 2.85 1550 -40° C -40° F 4.88 44373
30° C 86° F 1.139 7550 30° C 86° F 2.94 1671
156
Voltage/Resistance Chart -
Coolant Temperature
Temperature Volts Ohms Temperature Volts Ohms

110° C 230° F 0.115 129 28° C 82° F 1.377 1800
108° C 226° F 0.129 137 26° C 79° F 1.459 1950
106° C 223° F 0.143 145 24° C 75° F 1.541 2100
104° C 219° F 0.157 153 22° C 72° F 1.623 2250
102° C 216° F 0.171 161 20° C 68° F 1.705 2400
100° C 212° F 0.185 169 18° C 64° F 1.806 2670
98° C 208° F 0.192 180 16° C 61° F 1.907 2940
96° C 205° F 0.199 191 14° C 57° F 2.008 3210
94° C 201° F 0.206 202 12° C 54° F 2.109 3480
92° C 198° F 0.213 213 10° C 50° F 2.210 3750
90° C 194° F 0.220 224 8° C 46° F 2.327 4170
88° C 190° F 0.235 240 6° C 43° F 2.444 4590
86° C 187° F 0.250 256 4° C 39° F 2.561 5010
84° C 183° F 0.265 273 2° C 36° F 2.678 5430
82° C 180° F 0.280 289 0° C 32° F 2.795 5850
80° C 176° F 0.295 305 -2° C 28° F 2.901 6510
78° C 172° F 0.317 327 -4° C 25° F 3.007 7170
76° C 169° F 0.339 349 -6° C 21° F 3.113 7830
74° C 165° F 0.361 371 -8° C 18° F 3.219 8490
72° C 162° F 0.383 393 -10° C 14° F 3.325 9150
70° C 158° F 0.405 415 -12° C 10° F 3.421 9422
68° C 154° F 0.438 445 -14° C 7° F 3.517 9694
66° C 151° F 0.471 475 -16° C 3° F 3.613 9966
64° C 147° F 0.504 505 -18° C -0.4° F 3.709 10238
62° C 144° F 0.537 535 -20° C -4° F 3.805 10510
60° C 140° F 0.570 565 -22° C -8° F 3.885 13688
58° C 136° F 0.598 609 -24° C -11° F 3.965 16866
56° C 133° F 0.626 653 -26° C -15° F 4.045 20044
54° C 129° F 0.654 697 -28° C -18° F 4.125 23222
52° C 126° F 0.682 741 -30° C -22° F 4.205 26400
50° C 122° F 0.710 785 -32° C -26° F 4.267 30520
48° C 118° F 0.759 849 -34° C -29° F 4.329 34640
46° C 115° F 0.808 913 -36° C -32° F 4.391 38760
44° C 111° F 0.857 977 -38° C -36° F 4.453 42880
42° C 108° F 0.906 1041 -40° C -40° F 4.515 47000
40° C 104° F 0.955 1105 -42° C -44° F 4.553 55100
38° C 100° F 1.023 1214 -44° C -47° F 4.591 63200
36° C 97° F 1.091 1323 -46° C -51° F 4.629 71300
34° C 93° F 1.159 1432 -48° C -54° F 4.667 79400
32° C 90° F 1.227 1541 -50° C -58° F 4.705 87500
30° C 86° F 1.295 1650
157
REMOVING (4000 LXR)
1. With the engine off, remove the left-side access
Drive Train/Track/Brake panel. Loosen the 1/4 turn on the lower console.
Systems 2. Remove the cap screw, washers and sheave adjuster
from the end of the driven clutch; then remove the
cap screw, lock washer, and washer from the
This section has been organized into sub-sections for ser- adjuster.
vicing drive train, track, and brake systems; however,
some components may vary from model to model. The NOTE: Assure that the shims and O-ring are not
technician should use discretion and sound judgment removed from the adjuster.
when removing and installing components.
essary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
cian when servicing the drive train, track, and brake sys-
tems.
Description p/n
Drive Belt Deflection Tool 0644-424
Bearing Removal and Installation Tool 0644-167 0743-395
Movable Sheave Bearing Tool 0644-594 3. Reverse the adjuster and install the cap screw with-
Clutch Alignment Bar (4000 LXR) 0644-428 out washers into the adjuster. Install the sheave
Clutch Alignment Bar (6000/8000) 0744-093 adjuster and cap screw onto the driven clutch; then
Drive Clutch Puller 0744-062 tighten the cap screw until the movable sheave opens
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench 0644-136 far enough to allow the belt to be removed.
Driven Clutch Compressor Tool 0644-444 4. Remove the drive belt from the driven clutch first;
Rear Suspension Spring Tool 0144-311 then from the drive clutch.
Brake Caliper Bearing Puller 0744-067
NOTE: Each time the driven clutch cap screw is
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic removed, the hole in the driven shaft should be
Cat Service Parts Department. cleaned free of any Loctite residue.
CAUTION INSTALLING (4000 LXR)

Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller CAUTION
for the recommended puller or severe clutch damage
Before securing the driven clutch, be sure the rollers
will occur.
are up against the torque bracket or damage to the
back-side cams may occur.
1. Place the drive belt (so the arrow is pointing toward
Drive Belt the front of the snowmobile) in the drive clutch; then
between the sheaves of the driven clutch.
If the drive belt is longer than specified, the drive clutch 2. Install the sheave adjuster in its original position
and driven clutch will not achieve full shift ratio. This (beveled side out); then install the cap screw, lock
will result in poor acceleration and a decrease in top washer, and washer into the driven clutch. Tighten
speed. the cap screw (threads coated with blue Loctite
If the drive belt is shorter than specified, the starting ratio #243) to 20 ft-lb.
will be higher causing the belt to slip. A too-short drive 3. Secure the left-side console and access panel,
belt will cause a bog on engagement and will not allow
the engine to reach peak RPM. ! WARNING
NOTE: A thinly-worn drive belt may produce the Never operate the snowmobile without the belt
same effect as one that is too long. guard/access panel secured in place.
NOTE: A stiff belt causes a HP loss to the track. As Removing Drive Belt (ZR 4000
a belt warms up, it gets more flexible and transmits RR/6000/8000)
power with less HP loss.
1. Set the brake lever lock; then remove the left-side
NOTE: When installing a new drive belt, see After access panel. Loosen the 1/4 turn on the lower con-
Break-In Checkup - Drive Belt Break-In in the Gen- sole.
eral Information section.
158
2. Using Drive Belt Deflection Tool, thread the tool 2. Remove the cover and spring.
clockwise into the driven clutch until the movable
sheave opens far enough to remove the drive belt.
FC055
3. Remove the cam arm pin lock nuts; then using a

743-067B small torch, apply heat to the cam arm set screws to
Installing Drive Belt (ZR 4000 loosen the Loctite used in assembly.
RR/6000/8000)
1. Place the belt (so the part number can be read)
between the sheaves of the drive clutch.
2. With the sheaves fully apart, roll the belt over the
stationary sheave.
3. With the drive belt properly positioned in the drive
clutch and driven clutch, turn the belt tool counter-
clockwise, release the brake lever lock, and roll the
belt back and forth to allow the driven clutch sheaves
to fully close.
4. After the belt is installed properly, secure the
left-side lower console and the access panel. FS001
NOTE: Heat must be applied to the cam arm in

order to remove the set screws.
Drive Clutch
4. After the set screws have been removed, remove the
cam arm pins one at a time noting the position of the
CHANGING CAM ARMS/SPRINGS alignment notches in the cap screws for assembly
(4000 LXR/RR) purposes. Account for both O-rings.
Removing
screw and lock washer securing the drive clutch to
the crankshaft.
NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply oil
to the threads of the puller and a small amount of
grease to the tip of the puller.
2. Using the Drive Clutch Puller and the Drive Clutch
Spanner Wrench, tighten the puller. If the drive
clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the
puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases.
3. Remove the drive clutch and drive belt from the 0739-038
engine compartment.
Cleaning And Inspecting
Disassembling 1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, dirt, and
NOTE: Note the timing marks on the cover, spider, foreign matter off all components; dry with com-
and movable sheave. These must be aligned when pressed air.
assembling the drive clutch for balance purposes.
! WARNING
1. Loosen the screws securing the cover. Remove every Always wear safety glasses when using compressed air
other cap screw and lock washer from the cover; then to dry components.
while firmly holding the cover, remove the three
remaining screws and lock washers equally.
159
2. Remove any drive belt dust accumulation from the 1. Place the drive clutch into position on the crankshaft;
stationary sheave, movable sheave, and bushings then apply a few drops of oil to the threads of the cap
using parts-cleaning solvent only. screw.
3. Inspect stationary sheave, movable sheave, spider, 2. Using Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench to hold the
and cover for cracks or imperfections in the casting. drive clutch, secure using the cap screw and high
collar washer. Tighten to 51 ft-lb.
4. Inspect the cam arm pins for wear or bends.
5. Inspect the spring for distortion, cracks, or wear. CAUTION
When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the cap
6. Inspect rollers for damage or wear. screw with any kind of impact tool. Tighten cap screw
Assembling using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to do so could
result in stationary sheave damage.
1. With the head of each cam arm pin positioned
towards the direction of the drive clutch rotation, 3. Check alignment between the drive clutch and driven
install the cam arms. clutch.
NOTE: The drive clutch rotates counterclockwise. 4. Install the drive belt. Check drive belt deflection.
Close the left-side access panel.
2. With the cam arm pin properly positioned, apply
green Loctite #620 to the set screw holes in the cam
arm, install the new set screws (pre-coated with Loc- ! WARNING
tite), and tighten to 19 in.-lb. Never operate the engine without the belt guard/access
panel secured.
5. Either test drive the snowmobile or run the engine

for five minutes; then verify the drive clutch cap
screw torque specification.
CHANGING CAM ARMS/SPRING
(6000/8000)
Removing
screw and lock washer securing the drive clutch to
the crankshaft.
NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply oil
739-040B to the threads of the puller and a small amount of
grease to the tip of the puller.
CAUTION
Green Loctite #620 must be applied to the set screw 2. Using the Drive Clutch Puller and the Drive Clutch
holes in the cam arms or component damage may Spanner Wrench, tighten the puller. If the drive
occur.
clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the
puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases.
3. Secure the cam arm pins with new lock nuts and
tighten to 11 ft-lb. 3. Remove the drive clutch from the engine compart-
ment.
CAUTION Disassembling
When installing cam arms, always use new lock nuts
and cam arm set screws. NOTE: Note the timing marks on the cover, spider,
and movable sheave. These must be aligned when
4. Place the spring and cover into position making sure assembling the drive clutch for balance purposes.
the timing mark on the cover is properly aligned;
then compress the spring and install the screws 1. Loosen the screws securing the cover. Remove every
coated with blue Loctite #243 and lock washers. In a other cap screw from the cover; then while firmly
crisscross pattern, tighten evenly to 120 in.-lb. holding the cover, remove the three remaining
screws equally.
CAUTION 2. Remove the cover and spring.
Care must be taken when installing the cover not to
damage the bushing.
Installing
wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch mounting
taper clean using a clean towel.
160
SNO-545
SNO-546A
3. Remove the shoulder screw, washer, and lock nut
securing the cam arm. Account for two thrust wash- 2. Install washer onto the shoulder screw and install in
ers. through the clutch, thrust washers, and the cam arm.
Secure using new lock nut. Tighten to 50 in.-lb.
3. Place the spring and cover into position making sure
the timing mark (X) on the cover is properly aligned
with the spider and the movable sheave; then com-
press the spring and install the screws. In a crisscross
pattern, tighten evenly to 120 in.-lb.
SNO-546

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, dirt, and
foreign matter off all components; dry with com-
pressed air. SNO-545
! WARNING CAUTION
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed air Care must be taken when installing the cover not to
to dry components. damage the bushing.
2. Remove any drive belt dust accumulation from the Installing

stationary sheave, movable sheave, and bushings
using parts-cleaning solvent only. NOTE: Before installing the drive clutch, be sure to
wipe both the crankshaft taper and clutch mounting
3. Inspect stationary sheave, movable sheave, spider, taper clean using a clean towel.
and cover for cracks or imperfections in the casting.
1. Place the drive clutch into position on the crankshaft;
4. Inspect the shoulder screws for wear or bends. then apply a few drops of oil to the threads of the cap
5. Inspect the spring for distortion, cracks, or wear. screw.
6. Inspect rollers for damage or wear. 2. Using Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench to hold the
drive clutch, secure using the cap screw and high
Assembling collar washer. Tighten to 51 ft-lb.
NOTE: The drive clutch rotates counterclockwise
CAUTION
and the shoulder screw should be installed in the
direction of rotation. When installing the drive clutch, do not tighten the cap
screw with any kind of impact tool. Tighten cap screw
1. With the cam arm pin properly positioned between using a hand torque wrench only. Failure to do so could
the clutch tower, position the two thrust washers on result in stationary sheave damage.
each side of the cam arm with the straight edges
against the bottom and outside of the clutch. 3. Check alignment between the drive clutch and driven
clutch.
161
4. Install the drive belt. Check drive belt deflection. 4. Release the compression of the spring by removing
Close the left-side access panel. the wing nut; then remove the movable sheave.
! WARNING 5. Remove the stationary sheave; then remove the plas-

tic spring seat. Account for the driven spacer.
Never operate the engine without the belt guard/access
panel secured.
5. Either test drive the snowmobile or run the engine

for five minutes; then verify the drive clutch cap
screw torque specification.
Driven Clutch
REMOVING - ZR 4000 LXR

1. Remove the left-side access panel; then remove the
cap screw, washers, and sheave adjuster securing the
driven clutch. XM141
6. Remove the spring and remaining spring seat.

2. Slide the driven clutch off the shaft.
NOTE: Account for any alignment washers. These
washers must be in place during installation.
DISASSEMBLING
1. Place the driven clutch on the Driven Clutch Com-
pressor Tool; then install the compressor flange and
compress the driven clutch spring.
2. Mark the movable sheave, stationary sheave, and the
torque bracket for assembly purposes.
PC112
CLEANING AND INSPECTING

1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, drive belt
dust, and foreign matter off all components.
CAUTION
Do not use steel wool or a wire brush to clean driven
clutch components. A wire brush or steel wool will
cause the sheaves to be gouged (thus, the drive belt
may not slide properly between sheaves). Decreased
XM139
performance and possible accelerated drive belt wear
3. Apply heat to the screws securing the torque bracket will result.
to the movable sheave; then remove the screws.
2. Inspect the rollers for damage, cracks, or wear.
3. Inspect the sheaves for any gouges, cracks, or other
damage. Also, inspect threaded areas of sheaves for
damaged or stripped threads.
4. Inspect the back-side cams and torque bracket for
cracks or damage. The ramp portions of the bracket
must be free of gouges and damage. Minor scratches
may be repaired using #320 grit wet-or-dry sandpa-
per.
5. Inspect spring for distortion, crystallization, or
breaks.
XM140
6. Inspect the cover and movable sheave bearing for
wear. If wear is present, replace the bearing using
NOTE: Heat must be used to soften the Loctite Movable Sheave Bearing Tool.
using a torch or damage to the screw will occur.
162
REPLACING TORQUE BRACKET
BEARING/COVER BEARING
1. Remove the snap ring.
2. Using Movable Sheave Bearing Tool, drive the bear-
ing out.
! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when using the bearing
driver.
3. Install the new bearing using Movable Sheave Bear-

ing Tool; then secure with a new snap ring.
REPLACING ROLLERS PC112
1. Bend the locking tabs down away from the shoulder NOTE: Premature wear will result if the spring seat
bolt; then remove the bolt. is not installed.
2. Place the stationary sheave spring seat onto the
spring (flat side toward the spring); then noting the
alignment marks made during disassembling, place
the stationary sheave onto the torque bracket.
3. Place the movable sheave onto the stationary sheave.
4. With the clutch in place on the compressor, install
the compressor flange spacer and wing nut; then
compress the driven clutch spring.
XM143
2. Place a new roller into position and secure with the

shoulder bolt (with a drop of red Loctite #271).
Tighten securely and bend the lock tabs to contact
the bolt head.
NOTE: If the flat does not align with the tab, tighten
the shoulder bolt until it aligns.
XM139
5. With the driven clutch compressed, apply a small

amount of green Loctite #620 to the machined area
of the movable sheave so the Loctite can drip onto
the threads of the torque bracket.
XM144A
ASSEMBLING
1. Place the torque bracket onto the Driven Clutch
Compressor Tool; then install the spring seat (flat
side toward the spring) onto the torque bracket and
place the spring into position.
XM142
6. Install new Screws securing the movable sheave.

Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 27 ft-lb.
163
XM140 CM087
7. Remove the clutch from the compressor.
NOTE: If changing cam angles, move the cam 90° to
8. Install the back-side cams; then secure with the its optional position and secure the cam with the eight
screws and tighten to 24 in.-lb. torx head cap screws. Tighten to 5-6 ft-lb.
INSTALLING - ZR 4000 LXR 2. Using the Driven Clutch Compressor Tool, position
1. Set the brake lever lock. the tool over the roller assembly; then compress the
assembly enough to allow the snap ring to be
2. Install the alignment washers; then install the driven removed from the end of the shaft. Remove the snap
clutch. Tighten to 20 ft-lb (threads coated with blue ring.
Loctite #243).
3. Check drive clutch/driven clutch alignment; then
install the drive belt.
REMOVING - ZR 4000 RR
1. Remove the drive belt.
2. Remove the cap screw and washers securing the
clutch; then slide the driven clutch off the shaft.
NOTE: Account for any alignment washers. These
washers must be in place during installation.
Disassembling
1. Remove the four torx head cap screws securing the CM088
cam to the movable sheave; then grasp the cam and
by working the movable sheave back and forth, lift it
up and off the shaft.
CM089A
NOTE: It is advisable to secure the compression tool

in a vise or to bolt it to a sturdy workbench.
CM086
3. Remove the compression tool and account for the
snap ring, spider assembly, spring, and a retaining
ring.
NOTE: Note the location of the “X” stamped on the
roller assembly for assembling purposes.
4. Remove the movable sheave from the driven clutch
shaft and account for one spacer.
164
1. Using a parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, dirt, and
foreign matter off all components; dry with com-
pressed air.
2. Remove any drive belt dust accumulation from the
stationary sheave, movable sheave, and bushings
using parts-cleaning solvent only.
CAUTION
Do not use steel wool or a wire brush to clean compo-
nents having a bushing; damage to the bushing will
result.
FS033A
3. Inspect the roller assembly for wear or damage.
4. With Driven Clutch Compressor Tool, compress the
NOTE: Flat spots or diameter cannot be less than 23 roller assembly enough to allow the snap ring to be
mm (0.925 in.). properly secured to the shaft.
4. Inspect shaft for nicks or burrs.
5. Using a spring compression scale, measure spring
rate at proper load heights (secondary springs mea-
sured at load heights of 2.2 in. and 1.1 in.).
NOTE: If a spring rate measures less than 10% of
specified load height, it must be replaced.
6. Measure the inside diameter of the movable sheave
bushing. Bushing to shaft clearance must not exceed
0.25 mm (0.010 in.).
NOTE: If clearance exceeds the limit, the bushing
must be replaced.
CM090
Assembling
NOTE: While compressing the roller assembly, it
1. Install the spacer and the movable sheave onto the may be necessary to work the spider assembly back
driven clutch shaft. and forth to properly mate the splines.
2. Place the retaining ring and spring into the driven 5. With the “X” mark on the movable sheave lined up
clutch; then place the roller assembly and snap ring with the “X” mark on the roller assembly, place the
over the spring. cam with the desired angle into position; then secure
the cam to the movable sheave with the four torx
head cap screws. Tighten to 5-6 ft-lb.
FS031
3. Position the roller assembly so the “X” mark is

directly in line with the keyway on the driven clutch CM091B
shaft.
165
CM086A SNO-547
INSTALLING - ZR 4000 RR 3. Slide the movable sheave off the driven shaft.
1. Slide the alignment washers onto the end of the DISASSEMBLING
driven shaft. 1. Place the movable sheave on the Driven Clutch
2. Install the key in the driven shaft keyway; then place Compressor Tool with the torque bracket facing up;
the stub shaft into the driven clutch. Place the driven then install the compressor flange and handle against
clutch on the shaft. Align its keyway with the driven the torque bracket.
shaft keyway.
CAUTION
NOTE: A small amount of Loctite Anti-Seize Do not allow the compressor tool to touch either of the
Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146) applied to the driven clutch bushings as it may cause damage.
driven shaft will aid in future driven clutch removal.
2. Apply heat to the screws securing the torque bracket
3. Secure the driven clutch by installing the washer and to the movable sheave; then remove the screws.
cap screw (threads coated with blue Loctite #243).
Tighten the cap screw to 20 ft-lb.
REMOVING - 6000/8000
1. Remove the left-side access panel; then remove the
cap screw and washer securing the stationary sheave
to the driven shaft.
XM342
3. Release the compression of the spring by removing

the wing nut; then remove the torque bracket, spider
assembly, and the driven clutch spring.
SNO-544
2. Slide the stationary sheave off the driven shaft and

account for the drive belt and offset shims.
XM344
166
1. Using parts-cleaning solvent, wash grease, drive belt
dust, and foreign matter off all components.
CAUTION
Do not use steel wool or a wire brush to clean driven
clutch components. A wire brush or steel wool will
cause the sheaves to be gouged (thus, the drive belt
may not slide properly between sheaves). Decreased
performance and possible accelerated drive belt wear
will result.
2. Inspect the rollers and spider for damage, cracks, or

wear. XM384
3. Inspect the sheaves for any gouges, cracks, or other 2. Install the spider assembly over the spring; then posi-
damage. Also, inspect threaded areas of sheaves for tion the torque bracket over the spider and install the
damaged or stripped threads. compressor flange spacer and wing nut; then com-
press the torque bracket until the mounting locations
4. Inspect the torque bracket for cracks or damage. The align.
ramp portions of the bracket must be free of gouges
and damage.
5. Inspect spring for distortion, crystallization, or
breaks.
6. Inspect the torque bracket and movable sheave bear-
ings for wear. If wear is present, replace the bracket
or sheave.
REPLACING ROLLERS
1. With the torque bracket removed from the movable
sheave, remove the driven spider assembly from the
torque bracket.
2. Remove the retaining rings and thrust washers secur-
ing the rollers on the spider. XM344
3. Secure the torque bracket using new screws. Tighten

in a crisscross pattern to 120 in.-lb.
SNO-583
3. Place a new roller into position and secure with the

existing thrust washers and retaining rings making XM347
sure the rounded side of the bore is installed toward 4. Remove the clutch from the compressor.
the inside or the retaining ring will not seat into the
groove of the spider shaft. INSTALLING - 6000/8000
ASSEMBLING 1. Set the brake lever lock.
1. Place the movable sheave onto the Driven Clutch 2. Install the movable sheave onto the driven shaft until
Compressor Tool; then install the spring into the it is fully seated onto the splines of the shaft; then
sheave making sure the tab is placed into the notch in install the offset shims and the stationary sheave.
the movable sheave.
167
SNO-547 0747-959
3. Secure the sheaves using the existing cap screw and CORRECTING OFFSET (ZR 4000 LXR)
washer making sure the washer is cupped toward the
sheave. Tighten to 60 ft-lb; then install the drive belt. 1. To correct offset, the driven clutch must be moved
laterally on the input shaft. Remove the cap screw
and washers securing the driven clutch.
NOTE: If the driven clutch is tight on the shaft, pull
the driven clutch off using the Driven Clutch Puller.
2. To move the driven clutch inward on the shaft,
remove alignment washers located on driven shaft
from the chain case of the clutch.
3. To move the driven clutch outward on the shaft, add
alignment washers to the driven shaft on the chain
case of the clutch.
4. Arrange washers to obtain correct offset; then install
driven clutch, cap screw, and washers.
SNO-544
4. Check drive clutch/driven clutch alignment. 5. Install the drive belt.

CHECKING OFFSET (6000/8000)
NOTE: The drive belt does not need to be removed
Drive Clutch/Driven Clutch to check offset.
1. Set the brake lever lock; then remove the left-side
If premature drive belt wear is experienced or if drive access panel.
belt turns over, check parallelism/offset. Also, parallel-
ism/offset must be checked whenever either drive clutch 2. Place Alignment Plug into the bore of the drive
or driven clutch is serviced. To check offset, use appro- clutch; then place Alignment Bar onto the stationary
priate Clutch Alignment Bar. To check parallelism, use sheave of the driven clutch and into the groove of the
Parallelism Bar. alignment plug.
CHECKING OFFSET (ZR 4000 LXR)
1. With the engine off, open the left-side access panel;
then remove the drive belt.
2. Install appropriate Clutch Alignment Bar between
the drive clutch sheaves.
3. Allow the bar to rest on the drive clutch shaft and
against the outside edge of the driven clutch station-
ary sheave.
NOTE: The alignment bar must extend beyond the
front edge of the drive clutch.
SNO-578
4. With the bar against the outside edge of the driven
clutch stationary sheave at points A and B, the bar NOTE: Make sure the alignment bar is positioned
should just clear the inside edge of the stationary over the driven clutch cap screw.
sheave of the drive clutch and rest on the stationary 3. If the offset is correct, the line on the alignment bar
shaft at point C. If the bar either will not clear the will be aligned with the outside of the alignment
inside edge or is more than the specified amount, the plug. If not, proceed to Adjusting Offset.
offset must be corrected.
168
NOTE: Make sure the drive belt is sitting at the top
of the driven clutch sheaves.
1. Place a straightedge on top of the drive belt. The
straightedge should reach from the drive clutch to the
top of the driven clutch.
2. Using a stiff ruler centered between the drive clutch
and driven clutch, push down on the drive belt just
enough to remove all slack. Note the amount of
deflection on the ruler at the bottom of the straight-
edge. The deflection should be approximate-
ly28.5-31.8 mm (1 1/8-1 1/4 in.).
SNO-579
NOTE: To achieve proper offset, the driven clutch

cap screw and washer must to be installed and tight-
ened to 60 ft-lb.
CORRECTING OFFSET (6000/8000)
1. Thread Belt Removal/Installation Tool clockwise
into the driven clutch until the movable sheave opens
far enough to remove the drive belt. Remove the belt
and the tool.
0743-319
NOTE: Push down on the belt with the ruler only

until the bottom of the belt flexes upward; then read
the amount of deflection.
3. To correct drive belt deflection, remove the sheave
adjuster from the clutch, remove or add shim wash-
ers to the adjuster, and install the adjuster.
NOTE: After any adjustment have been made,
make sure the drive belt is sitting at the top of the
driven sheaves. Support the rear suspension up in the
0749-025
air; then run the sled for a few seconds and let the
2. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the track slow down to a stop. Turn the engine off and
driven clutch to the driven shaft; then remove the sta- check deflection again. Adjust as necessary.
tionary sheave from the shaft. NOTE: Adding shim washers will decrease belt
3. To move the stationary sheave inward on the shaft, deflection; removing shim washers will increase belt
remove alignment washers located on driven shaft. deflection.
4. To move the stationary sheave outward on the shaft, CHECKING/ADJUSTING DEFLECTION
add alignment washers to the driven shaft. (ZR 4000 RR/6000/8000)
NOTE: Available shim washers from Arctic Cat are Drive belt length, condition, and deflection are all
p/n 0648-850 (0.090 in.) and (p/n 0648-849 (0.030 in.). important for peak performance. To check and adjust
When adding or removing washers, the thickest drive belt deflection, use the following procedure.
washer in the stack needs to be the most inward on 1. With the engine off; remove the hood and left-side
the shaft. access panel.
5. Arrange washers to obtain the correct offset; then 2. Make sure the drive belt is sitting at the top of the
install stationary sheave and secure using the cap driven clutch sheaves.
screw and washer. Tighten to 60 ft-lb.
3. Place a straightedge on the top of the drive belt. The
6. Install the drive belt. straightedge should reach from the drive clutch to the
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION (ZR 4000
top of the driven clutch.
LXR) 4. Using a stiff ruler centered between the drive clutch
Drive belt length, condition, and deflection are all and driven clutch, push down on the drive belt just
important for peak performance. To check and adjust enough to remove all slack and note the amount of
drive belt deflection, use the following procedure. deflection. The deflection should be approximately
28.5-31.8 mm (1 1/8-1 1/4 in.).
169
3. Remove the screws securing the PTO engine mount
plate to the engine and the chassis.
4. Remove the expansion chamber and the resonator;
then remove the right-side footrest.
5. Remove the torx-head screw securing the belly pan
to the right-side footrest support.
6. Disconnect the speed sensor connector and the oil
level connector.
7. Place a drain pan under the chain case; then loosen
the eleven screws securing the chain case cover/oil
tank assembly to the chain case housing starting with
the bottom screws first.
0748-987
8. Remove the chain case cover/oil tank and set out of
NOTE: The amount of deflection should be experi- the way leaving the oil hose connected.
mented with or tested to obtain best start-line perfor-
mance. 9. Release tension on the chain tensioner; then remove
the ratchet block and the tensioner.
NOTE: Push down on the belt with the ruler only
until the bottom of the belt flexes upward; then read
the amount of deflection.
5. To correct drive belt deflection, loosen the jam nut
on the belt width adjuster on the stationary sheave.
NOTE: Make sure the jam nut and set screw is
located on the opposite side of the drive clutch when
checking or adjusting the deflection.
XM385
10. Remove the retaining ring securing the upper

sprocket to the driven shaft.
SNO-597A
6. Using an Allen wrench, adjust the set screw as

needed.
NOTE: Turning the set screw clockwise increases
distance between the sheaves (increases belt deflection
measurement); turning the set screw counterclock-
wise decreases distance between the sheaves
(decreases belt deflection measurement). XM386
NOTE: Spread the retaining rings only enough to

remove them from the drive and driven shafts.
Drive Train
11. Remove the retaining ring securing the lower
sprocket. Remove the sprockets and chain.
REMOVING CHAIN CASE/DRIVEN
SHAFT/DRIVESHAFT/TRACK (4000 RR,
6000, 8000)
1. Remove the left- and right-side panels, hood; then
loosen the quarter turns securing the lower console to
the skid panels and secure out of the way.
2. Remove the drive and driven clutches.
170
XM387 PC148A
12. Remove the inner black retaining ring; then remove NOTE: If the caliper will not slide off the driveshaft
the retaining ring and washer securing the driven easily, proceed to step 17.
shaft.
17. Remove the retaining pin and the brake disc pads;
then pump the brake lever 3 or 4 times then pull back
and secure the lever to the handlebar using a cable
tie. This will keep the fluid from leaking.
NOTE: Place an absorbent towel under the caliper
to absorb slight amount of brake fluid. Do not com-
press the brake lever.
18. Remove the retaining ring securing the brake disc to
the driveshaft and remove the brake disc.
NOTE: It may be necessary to use Brake Caliper
Bearing Puller to remove the caliper/bearing assem-
bly.
XM389
NOTE: If the chain case needs to be removed,
remove all machine screws with lock nuts.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING CHAIN
CASE
1. Inspect sprockets and chain for excessive wear or
stretching.
2. Inspect bearings and sprockets for roughness or chip-
ping.
NOTE: If bearing replacement is necessary, the
chain case must be removed from the tunnel and an
appropriate press utilized to remove and install bear-
XM388
ings.
13. Once the snap ring and washers have been removed 3. Clean all interior chain case surfaces and compo-
from the driven shaft, the shaft may be removed nents in cleaning solvent and dry using compressed
from the chassis. air.
14. Remove the skid frame assembly. ! WARNING
15. Remove the brake shield and the left-side footrest. Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.
NOTE: DO NOT split the brake caliper unless nec-
essary service work is required. ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING CHAIN
16. Remove the cap screws securing the inner caliper to CASE/DRIVEN
the tunnel; then remove the caliper and the driveshaft SHAFT/DRIVESHAFT/TRACK (4000 RR,
assembly. 6000, 8000)
If the driveshaft and driven shaft were not removed, pro-
ceed to step 12.
1. Install chain case assembly onto the chassis and
secure with the machine screws and four lock nuts.
Tighten all screws to 12 ft-lb.
171
2. Place the driveshaft/drive sprocket assembly into the
tunnel brake-end first; then into the chain case drive-
shaft bearing.
3. Install the inner brake caliper assembly and secure
with three cap screws and the retaining ring. Tight-
ened cap screws (threads coated with blue Loctite
#243) securely.
XM391
9. Install the drive clutch and tighten the clutch cap

screw w/washer to 51 ft-lb; then install the driven
clutch and drive belt. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
10. Install the existing washers; then press in on the
driven shaft and secure the shaft using the existing
washer and snap ring.
PC148A
NOTE: If the brake caliper was split, proceed to

step 4. If not, proceed to step 6.
4. Install the brake disc and secure with the retaining
ring.
5. Making sure the seal is correctly installed in the
outer brake caliper, install on the inner caliper and
secure with two cap screws. Tighten to 25 ft-lb.
XM388
11. Install the black snap ring onto the inner snap ring
groove in the driven shaft.
PC173A
6. Install the skid frame (see the Suspension section).

7. Install the brake shield and left-side footrest. Tighten
the cover cap screws to 8 ft-lb.
8. Install the driven shaft w/mount plate from the
left-side; then secure the PTO-side engine mounting XM389
plate to the crankcase and the chassis with the exist- 12. Install the sprockets and chain onto the driveshaft
ing cap screws (coated with blue Loctite #243) and and driven shaft and secure using the existing snap
one washer. Tighten to 30 ft-lb. rings.
172
REMOVING CHAIN CASE/DRIVEN
SHAFT/DRIVESHAFT/TRACK (4000
LXR)
1. Remove the left- and right-side panels, hood; then
loosen the quarter turns securing the lower console to
the skid panels and secure out of the way.
2. Remove the drive and driven clutches.
3. Remove the screws securing the PTO engine mount
plate to the engine and the chassis.
4. Remove the resonator; then remove the right-side
footrest.
XM387
5. Remove the torx-head screw securing the belly pan
to the right-side footrest support.
6. Disconnect the speed sensor connector and the oil
level connector.
7. Place a drain pan under the chain case; then loosen
the eleven screws securing the chain case cover/oil
tank assembly to the chain case housing starting with
the bottom screws first.
8. Remove the chain case cover/oil tank and set out of
the way leaving the oil hose(s) connected. Account
for a thrust washer on the countershaft.
XM386
13. Install the ratchet block and tensioner; then set the
tensioner in the fifth notch in the block as it is self
tightening.
SNO-964A
9. Remove the reverse gear, reverse fork, reverse shift
rack, and the reverse shift shaft as an assembly.
10. Remove the retaining ring from the driveshaft; then
remove the reverse chain and sprockets. Account for
XM385
a thrust washer.
14. Install the chain case cover/oil tank assembly and
secure with the existing screws (threads coated with
blue Loctite #243). Tighten in a crisscross pattern to
12 ft-lb. Fill the chain case with 15 oz. of Arctic Cat
Chain Lube.
15. Connect the speed and oil sensor connector.
16. Install the right-side footrest support and secure to
the belly pan using the existing screws.
17. Install the resonator.
18. Secure the lower console to the skid panels; then
install the hood and both access panels.
SNO-965A
11. Release tension on the chain tensioner; then remove

the ratchet block. The tensioner does not need to be
removed.
173
SNO-966A
YM-077A
12. Remove the sprockets and chain.
NOTE: If the brake caliper was split, proceed to
CLEANING AND INSPECTING CHAIN step 4. If not, proceed to step 6.
CASE
4. Install the brake disc and secure with the retaining
1. Inspect sprockets and chains for excessive wear or ring.
stretching.
5. Making sure the seal is correctly installed in the
2. Inspect bearings and gears for roughness or chipping. outer brake caliper, install on the inner caliper and
NOTE: If bearing replacement is necessary, the secure with two cap screws. Tighten to 25 ft-lb.
chain case must be removed from the tunnel and an
appropriate press utilized to remove and install bear-
ings.
3. Inspect reverse shift rack and fork for excessive
wear, discoloration, or other damage.
4. Clean all interior chain case surfaces and compo-
nents in cleaning solvent and dry using compressed
air.
! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.
PC173A
5. Inspect chain snubbers for excessive wear. 6. Install the skid frame.
INSTALLING CHAIN CASE/DRIVEN 7. Install the brake cover and left-side footrest. Tighten
SHAFT/DRIVESHAFT/TRACK (4000 the cover cap screws to 8 ft-lb.
LXR)
NOTE: Bleed the brake system if the brake caliper
If the driveshaft and driven shaft were not removed, pro- was split in this section.
ceed to step 16.
8. Install the chain and sprockets; then install the
1. Install chain case assembly onto chassis and secure ratchet block making sure to have the tensioner on
with six self-tapping screws and four machine the fifth notch.
screws with lock nuts. Tighten the screws to 14 ft-lb.
2. Place the driveshaft/drive sprocket assembly into the
tunnel brake-end first; then into the chain case drive-
shaft bearing.
3. Install the inner brake caliper assembly and secure
with three cap screws and the retaining ring. Tighten
the cap screws securely.
PC085A
9. Install the reverse sprockets and chain.
174
10. Secure the driveshaft reverse sprocket to the drivesh-
aft with a retaining ring; then install a existing thrust
washer on the outside of the upper reverse sprocket
and reverse idler shaft.
PC067A
16. Install the right-side footrest support and secure to

the belly pan using the torx-head screw; then install
the right-side footrest.
SNO-965A 17. Install the seat.
18. Start the engine and with the snowmobile on a jack
stand; then shift the snowmobile into and out of
reverse three times.
Drive Sprockets
REMOVING
NOTE: The drive sprockets must be removed from
the brake side.
SNO-973A
11. Install the reverse gear, fork, shift shaft, and shift
rack assembly into the chain case.
YM-075A
1. Remove the snap ring on the brake side of the drive-

shaft; then remove the retaining plate seal.
SNO-979
12. Install the chain case cover/oil tank assembly and

secure with the screws. Tighten in a crisscross pat-
tern to 105 in.-lb.
13. Fill the chain case with 12 oz of Arctic Cat Chain
Lube.
14. Install the actuator extender; then install the reverse
actuator and with a drop of blue Loctite #243 on each
screw, secure the actuator to the chain case cover.
15. Connect the speed sensor connector (A), the gear
indicator switch connector (B), and reverse actuator
connector (C). YM-074A
175
2. For installing purposes, scribe a line on the drivesh-
aft (A) next to the drive sprocket for proper align-
ment; then scribe a line on the driveshaft directly in
line with the timing arrows (B located on the inside
of the sprockets) on the drive sprockets for proper
sprocket timing.
YM-075B
NOTE: Prior to installing the sprockets onto the

driveshaft, lightly chamfer the inside edge of the
sprocket to avoid binding.
1. Properly align the scribed line (B) on the driveshaft
YM-071A
(from removing) with the timing arrow on the drive
3. Using a suitable press positioned against the ten- sprocket; then slide the sprocket onto the driveshaft
sion-collar of the drive sprocket (located on the gear as far as it will go.
case) and of the driveshaft, press the drive sprockets
off the driveshaft.
CAUTION
Always press against the tension-collar of the drive
sprockets or damage to the components will occur.
YM-071A
2. Using a suitable press and fixture, press the drivesh-

aft into the sprocket until it aligns with the line
scribed in removing.
3. Slide the remaining sprocket onto the driveshaft
making sure the timing arrow/lines (from removing)
YM-069A are aligned; then using the press/fixture, press the
sprocket to the remaining alignment line.
1. Thoroughly wash all metallic components in CAUTION
parts-cleaning solvent. Dry using compressed air. Always press against the tension-collar of the drive
sprockets or damage to the components will occur.
2. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and
water.
NOTE: When pressing new sprockets on the drive-
3. Inspect the driveshaft for damaged splines or shaft, align the sprocket alignment marks or the
stripped threads. sprockets won’t be timed correctly.
4. Inspect the seals for any breaks or damage.
5. Inspect the track for cuts, gouges, or wear.
6. Inspect the brake disc for wear or cracks.
7. Inspect the track drive sprockets for wear or damage.
INSTALLING
NOTE: The drive sprockets must be installed from
the brake side.
176
YM-072A XM283A
4. Using a calipers, measure distances between the

sprockets and from the sprockets to each end of the
driveshaft for proper location (see appropriate illus- Track Tension
tration).
CHECKING
! WARNING
DO NOT attempt to check or adjust track tension with
engine running. Turn ignition key to the OFF position.
Personal injury could result from contact with a rotating
track.
1. Remove excess ice and snow buildup from the track,

track drive sprockets, and the inside of the skid
frame.
M 6000 153 ES/SP ES/LTD/LTD ES 2. Elevate the snowmobile on a shielded safety stand
M 8000 153 SP LTD/SP LTD ES high enough to use a spring scale.
M 8000 162 SP LTD/SP LTD ES
XF CROSSTREK 3. At mid-point of the track (on the bottom side), hook
ZR a spring scale around a track clip; then pull down on
0749-790 the scale to the recommended pressure. Measure the
deflection (distance) between the bottom of the wear
strip and the inside surface of the track clip. Com-
pare the measurement with the chart in the General
Information section.
NOTE: Measurement is from the bottom of the
wear strip at the point of the shock pad on the slide
rail.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: To ensure proper track tension adjustment,
perform all adjustments on both sides of the snowmo-
bile.
M 6000 153 SP
M 8000 141/ES/SP/SP ES 1. Loosen the idler wheel axle cap screws.
M 8000 153/ES/HCR/SP/SP ES
M 8000 162 SP/SP ES
XF 8000 HC/HC SP LTD ES
0747-960
5. Install the seal retaining plate; then install the exist-
ing snap ring.
0745-811
177
2. If the deflection (distance between the bottom of the 3. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only
wear strip and the inside surface of the track clip) enough throttle to turn the track several revolutions.
exceeds specifications, tighten the adjusting bolts to SHUT ENGINE OFF.
take up excessive slack in the track.
NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. DO NOT
3. If the distance between the bottom of the wear strip apply the brake because it could produce an inaccu-
and the inside surface of the track clip is less than rate alignment condition.
specified, loosen the adjusting bolts to increase the
slack in the track. 4. When the track stops rotating, check the relationship
of the rear idler wheels and the inner track drive lugs.
CAUTION If the rear idler wheels are centered between the
Always maintain track tension within recommended inner track drive lugs, no adjustment is necessary. If
specification.
not, proceed to step 5.
4. Check track alignment.

5. After proper track tension is obtained, tighten the
idler wheel axle cap screws to 34 ft-lb.
NOTE: Since track tension and track alignment are
interrelated, always check both even if only one
adjustment seems necessary.
! WARNING
Always make sure the adjusting bolts are snug against
the axle and the idler wheel cap screws. Failure to do so
could cause the track to become extremely loose and,
under some operating conditions, allow the idler wheels 0745-809
to climb over the track lugs forcing the track against the 5. On the side of the track which has the inner track
tunnel causing the track to “lock.” If a track “locks” drive lugs closer to the rear idler wheel, loosen the
during operation, severe personal injury could result. idler wheel axle cap screw; then rotate the adjusting
bolt clockwise 1 to 1 1/2 turns.
Track Alignment
NOTE: Proper track alignment is when the rear

idler wheels are equidistant from the inner drive lugs
on the inside surface of the track.
CHECKING/ADJUSTING
! WARNING
Make sure the ignition key is in the OFF position and the
track is not rotating before checking or adjusting track
alignment. Personal injury could result if contact is
made with a rotating track. 0745-811
1. Remove excess ice and snow buildup from the track, 6. Check the track alignment and make the necessary
track drive sprockets, and the inside of the skid adjustments until proper alignment is obtained.
frame. NOTE: Make sure correct track tension is main-
2. Position the tips of the skis against a wall; then using tained after adjusting track alignment.
a shielded safety stand, raise the rear of the snowmo- 7. After proper track tension and alignment are
bile off the floor making sure the track is free to obtained, tighten the idler wheel axle cap screw to 34
rotate. ft-lb; then tighten the adjusting bolt to 84 in.-lb.
! WARNING ! WARNING
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a wall or
Always make sure the adjusting bolts are snug against
similar object for safety. Keep hands, feet, and clothing
the axle and the idler wheel cap screws. Failure to do so
away from moving components.
could cause the track to become extremely loose and,
! WARNING under some operating conditions, allow the idler wheels
to climb over the track lugs forcing the track against the
DO NOT stand behind the snowmobile or near the rotat-
tunnel causing the track to “lock.” If a track “locks”
ing track. NEVER run the track at high speed when the
during operation, severe personal injury could result.
track is suspended.
178
NOTE: Field test the track under actual conditions 2. If the brake fluid level is low, add Arctic Cat
and after the field test, check track alignment and approved brake fluid until the fluid is at the recom-
track tension; adjust as necessary. mended level. Install and secure the reservoir cover.
DO NOT allow moisture to contaminate the brake
system.
Brake System CAUTION
Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid
CHECKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL on any surface of the snowmobile.
1. Compress the brake lever fully. ! WARNING

NOTE: Do not pump the brake lever as it will pro- Do not overfill the brake fluid reservoir. Overfilling the
duce an inaccurate reading. reservoir may cause the brake system to hydraulically
lock. Use only approved brake fluid. Never substitute or
2. Measure the distance between the brake lever and the mix different types or grades of brake fluid. Brake loss
handlebar. The distance must be greater than 1 in. may occur. Brake loss can result in severe injury or
even death.
CHANGING BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid must be changed on a regular basis
and/or whenever the brake fluid has been overheated or
contaminated. The brake fluid should be changed every
1000 miles or at the end of the snowmobiling season,
whichever occurs first.
Arctic Cat recommends the removal and disassembly of
the brake caliper assembly when changing the brake
fluid.
CAUTION
0745-816 Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid
3. If the distance is less than specified, check the brake on any surface of the snowmobile.
fluid level, inspect for leakage, and check the brake
pads. ! WARNING
Use only DOT 4 or DOT 5 brake fluid. Any substitute
! WARNING may result in a loss of brakes.
Do not operate the snowmobile if the distance between 1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the
the compressed brake lever and handlebar is less than bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
1 in. Brake loss may occur. Brake loss can result in tainer.
severe personal injury.
CHECKING AND ADDING BRAKE FLUID
1. With brake fluid reservoir in a level position and the
cover removed, check the fluid level. The brake fluid
level must be at the high mark in the reservoir.
PC223A
2. Slowly compress the brake lever and hold. Open the

bleeder valve to release the fluid; then compress the
brake lever repeatedly until all brake fluid is
expelled. Close the bleeder valve.
0745-817 3. Add new approved brake fluid to the reservoir; then
compress the brake lever and hold. Open the bleeder
valve. Repeat the compression until brake fluid
flows free of air bubbles and appears clean.
179
NOTE: It may be necessary to refill the reservoir a CHECKING AND REPLACING BRAKE
number of times to eliminate all air bubbles in the sys- PADS
tem. 1. Remove the brake shield; then remove the retaining
4. When the brake fluid is free of all air and the brake pin securing the brake pads.
lever feels firm when compressed, fill the reservoir;
then install and secure the cover. Remove the tube
from the bleeder valve.
5. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake System
BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM
If the brake lever feels spongy when applied, the brake
system may need to be bled.
1. With the handlebar in the highest position, remove
the reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with
approved brake fluid.
PC195
CAUTION 2. Remove one brake pad and measure the thickness.
on any surface of the snowmobile.
! WARNING
Use only approved brake fluid. Any substitute may
result in a loss of brakes.
! WARNING
Do not use brake fluid from a container opened for a
long period of time. Unsealed brake fluid containers will
absorb moisture and can contaminate the fluid inside.
2. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the
bleeder valve and direct the other end into a con-
tainer. PC199
NOTE: Brake pad thickness must be greater than

0.20 in. If brake pad thickness is less than specified,
replacement of both pads is necessary. Always replace
with new pads and always replace as a set.
3. Position the new brake pad into the caliper.
4. Repeat for the other pad; then secure the pads with
the retaining pin.
PC223A
3. Slowly compress the brake lever and hold. Open the

bleeder valve to release the fluid and air. When the
fluid stops flowing, close the bleeder valve; then
release the brake lever.
4. Repeat step 3 until the brake fluid flows free of air
bubbles.
NOTE: It may be necessary to refill the reservoir
during the bleeding process. PC194
5. When the brake fluid is free of all air and the brake NOTE: When new brake pads are installed, a “bur-
lever feels firm when compressed, fill the reservoir; nishing” process is required. Drive the snowmobile
then install and secure the cover. Remove the tube slowly and compress the brake lever several times
from the bleeder valve. until the pads just start to warm up; then allow them
to cool down. This procedure stabilizes the pad mate-
rial and extends the life of the pads.
180
BRAKE CALIPER/BRAKE 7. Remove the retaining ring from the driveshaft and
DISC/DRIVESHAFT BEARING remove the brake disc; then remove the cap screws
securing the inner caliper/driveshaft bearing housing
Removing/Disassembling to the chassis.
1. Remove both access panels; then remove the drive
belt and driven clutch.
2. Remove the screws securing the brake shield and
footrest to the chassis.
3. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the
tainer.
PC148A
8. If the bearing will be replaced, remove the retaining

ring; then using a suitable press, remove the bearing
from the housing.
PC223A
CAUTION
4. Open the bleeder valve and compress the brake lever
several times to drain the reservoir of fluid.
5. Remove the brake hose from the caliper. Use an
absorbent towel to collect any remaining brake fluid.
PC200
6. Remove the retaining pin securing the brake pads;
then remove both pads. NOTE: Never reuse bearings that have been
removed. Always use new bearings.
NOTE: If the caliper housings were separated, they
must be secured together with the seal installed
between the inner and outer housings.
9. Position a piece of wood between the pistons. Using
low-pressure compressed air, blow into the caliper
brake hose fitting to loosen the brake pistons.
! WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.
PC195
NOTE: If servicing the brake disc only, remove the

cap screws securing the caliper housings together;
then remove the outside housing. Account for the seal.
CAUTION
If the caliper housings are to be separated, take care not
to allow any contaminants into the fluid passages of the
calipers.
NOTE: To aid in removing the inner caliper hous-

ing, completely loosen track tension.
PC221A
181
10. Remove the two screws securing the caliper halves. 3. Inspect the piston bore of the inner and outer brake
Discard the seal. calipers for gouges, cracks, pitting, scuffing, or cor-
rosion. If any of these conditions exist, replace the
caliper.
4. Clean the caliper inner wall surface using a soft
lint-free cloth and clean brake fluid.
CAUTION
Care must be taken not to allow any contaminants into
the fluid passages of the calipers or brake system mal-
function may occur.
5. Inspect the condition of the brake pads. Replace if

damaged or worn. The brake pad thickness must be
greater than 0.20 in. If the brake pad thickness is less
than specified, replacement of both pads is neces-
PC219A
sary.
6. Inspect the brake hose for cracks and deterioration
and check the condition of the threaded connectors.
Assembling/Installing
1. Apply approved brake fluid to new O-rings; then
install the O-rings into the groove of each caliper
half.
CAUTION
Never reuse piston O-rings. Always install new O-rings
when installing pistons in the brake caliper.
PC173
2. In each caliper half, apply approved brake fluid to
11. Remove the pistons (A) and O-rings (B); then dis- the brake piston; then while twisting, install the pis-
card the O-rings. ton with the dished side facing out.
PC201
PC220A
NOTE: To aid in installing the piston, make sure the
piston O-ring is properly seated in the groove of the
1. Inspect the brake pistons for gouges, cracks, pitting, caliper housing.
scuffing, or corrosion. If any of these conditions
exist, replace the piston. 3. Using a suitable press, install a new inner bearing
into the caliper housing until it is properly seated.
NOTE: The inner and outer caliper housings are
not serviceable components. If either or both are CAUTION
defective or damaged, the complete caliper assembly When installing a bearing, always press on the outer
must be replaced. race of the bearing.
2. Clean the piston outer surface by using a soft
Scotch-Brite pad and clean brake fluid as a cleaner.
CAUTION
Do not use any sharp cleaning tool on the piston sur-
face or in the O-ring groove as it may cause damage.
182
ZJ239A PC195
4. Install the snap ring securing the bearing in the cali- 9. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake System
per housing. in this sub-section).
10. Install the brake shield and footrest; then install the
drive belt (see Drive Belt in this section) and driven
clutch. Tighten the driven clutch cap screw to 20
ft-lb.
11. Adjust the track tension (see Track Tension in this
section) and track alignment (see Track Alignment in
this section).
12. Close and secure both side panels.
Brake Lever/Master
PC204
Cylinder Assembly
5. Place the inner caliper housing/driveshaft bearing
housing onto the driveshaft and secure with the cap REMOVING
screws coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to 25
ft-lb. 1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over the ball of the
6. Apply Anti-Seize Thread Compound to the splines tainer.
of the brake disc; then install on the driveshaft and
secure with the retaining ring.
7. Install a new seal in the outer caliper fluid passage;
them install the outer caliper and secure with the cap
screws. Tighten to 25 ft-lb.
PC223A
2. Remove the two screws securing the reservoir cover

and remove the reservoir cover; then open the
bleeder valve. Allow the brake fluid to drain com-
pletely.
PC173A 3. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to
8. Install new brake pads in the caliper and secure with absorb brake fluid. Remove the banjo-fitting bolt (A)
the retainer pin. securing the brake fluid hose (B) to the master cylin-
der. Discard the two crush washers.
CAUTION
183
2. Inspect the master cylinder reservoir and cover for
cracks and leakage.
NOTE: The master cylinder is a non-serviceable
component. If any wear or damage is detected, the
master cylinder must be replaced.
3. Inspect the brake fluid hose for cracks, deterioration,
and the condition of the fittings (threaded and com-
pression).
INSTALLING
1. Position the brake assembly on the handlebar. Secure
with two torx-head screws (F) and clamp; tighten
securely.
745-759A
4. Remove the pin (D) securing the brake lever to the 2. Install the brake fluid hose (B) to the master cylinder
master cylinder. with the banjo-fitting bolt (A) and two new crush
washers. Tighten securely.
5. Using a small screwdriver, compress the tabs of the
brakelight switch (E) to release it from the master CAUTION
cylinder.
Always use new crush washers when installing the
6. Remove the two torx-head screws (F) and clamp brake fluid hose.
securing the brake reservoir to the handlebar; then
place a towel over the reservoir and remove the 3. Install the brakelight switch (E) to the master cylin-
assembly from the handlebar. der.
INSPECTING 4. Install the brake lever; then secure with pin (D).
1. Inspect the snap ring and pin securing the brake lever 5. Place the reservoir cover onto the reservoir; then
for wear or damage; then inspect the brake lever for secure with the two screws.
cracks or damage.
6. Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake System
184
Troubleshooting Hydraulic
Brake System
Problem: Caliper Leaks

Condition Remedy
1. Caliper O-ring deteriorated — severed 1. Replace O-ring
2. Piston — O-ring damaged 2. Repair piston — replace piston — O-ring
Problem: Lever Spongy — Bottoms Out
Condition Remedy
1. Brake system air bubbles present 1. Bleed brake system
2. Master cylinder damaged — faulty 2. Replace master cylinder
Problem: Oscillation Feedback in Lever
Condition Remedy
1. Brake pad residue present on brake disc 1. Replace pads — clean disc
2. Caliper loose 2. Tighten mounting bolts
Problem: Loss of Brake
Condition Remedy
1. Brake fluid overheated — contaminated 1. Replace fluid
3. Caliper — brake hose leaking 3. Replace caliper O-ring — repair piston —replace piston —
O-ring — brake hose
4. Brake lever linkage damaged 4. Repair — replace lever — mounting bolt
Problem: Brakes Drag
Condition Remedy
2. Brake pads worn — tapered 2. Replace pads
Problem: Snowmobile Won’t Stop — Have to Pull Too Hard on Lever
Condition Remedy
1. Pads/brake disc glazed 1. Replace pads — clean disc
2. Brake lever binding 2. Loosen pivot bolt — replace master cylinder
3. Caliper pistons binding 3. Service caliper assembly
Troubleshooting Track
Problem: Track Edge Frayed — Drive Lugs Worn

Condition Remedy
1. Track alignment adjusted incorrectly 1. Align — replace track
Problem: Track Worn Adjacent to Outer Drive Lugs
Condition Remedy
1. Track tension adjusted incorrectly 1. Adjust track tension
2. Rear idler wheels dirty — damaged 2. Clean — replace idler wheels
Problem: Track Ratchets — Slaps Tunnel
Condition Remedy
1. Track tension adjusted incorrectly (too loose) 1. Adjust track tension (tighten)
2. Drive sprockets misaligned — damaged 2. Align — replace sprockets
Problem: Wear-Strip Wear Excessive
Condition Remedy
1. Slide rail bent — broken — damaged 1. Repair — replace slide rail
2. Track alignment adjusted incorrectly 2. Adjust track alignment
185
Troubleshooting Drive
Clutch/Driven Clutch
Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Quickly - Lowers RPM)

Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring weak 1. Replace drive clutch spring
2. Driven clutch spring weak 2. Replace driven clutch spring
3. Driven clutch spring preload tension inadequate 3. Replace driven clutch spring
4. Center-to-center distance too close 4. Adjust center-to-center distance
5. Driven clutch bearing worn — damaged 5. Replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Slowly - Raises RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty 1. Clean drive clutch components
2. Driven clutch components dirty 2. Clean driven clutch components
3. Driven clutch spring preload tension excessive 3. Replace driven clutch spring
4. Driven clutch bearing worn — dirty 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Excessive Belt Deposits
Condition Remedy
1. Offset/parallelism incorrect 1. Adjust offset/parallelism
2. Drive clutch/driven clutch sheaves rough — damaged — 2. Repair — replace — clean drive clutch/driven clutch
dirty
3. Driven clutch movable sheave travel impaired 3. Service driven clutch
4. Driven clutch bearing worn — dirty 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave
Problem: Excessive Belt Drag—Impaired Drive Clutch Disengagement
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty — damaged 1. Clean — replace drive clutch components
2. Drive belt does not meet measurement specifications 2. Replace drive belt
Problem: Engine RPM Suddenly Increases—Drive Clutch Vibrates
Condition Remedy
1. Cam arm pin bent — damaged 1. Replace pin
2. Cam arm damaged — broken 2. Replace cam arm
3. Drive clutch out of balance 3. Align — replace components — drive clutch — drive belt
Problem: Driven Clutch Vibrates
Condition Remedy
1. Driven clutch out of balance 1. Service — replace driven clutch
Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (Before Specified RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring weak — bent 1. Replace spring
2. Cam arms incorrect — worn 2. Replace cam arms
Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (After Specified RPM)
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch spring incorrect 1. Replace spring
2. Spider buttons worn 2. Replace clutch
Problem: Drive Clutch Sticks
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch components dirty 1. Clean drive clutch components
2. Movable sheave bent — binding 2. Clean — replace movable sheave
Problem: Drive Clutch Jerks—Shifts Erratically
Condition Remedy
1. Drive clutch dirty 1. Clean — drive clutch components
2. Rollers worn 2. Replace clutch
3. Cam arms rough 3. Polish — replace cam arms
5. Sheaves dirty 5. Clean sheaves
186
Under acceleration when the center of gravity is trans-
ferred to the rear of the machine, the rear suspension col-
Suspension lapses slightly. This brings the rear arm point downward
and with the front arm stationary, the teeter-totter effect
reduces the pressure on the skis, position A.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, However, for controlled cornering, more pressure is
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec- needed on the skis. So when the driver decelerates com-
essary. ing into a corner, the center of gravity is transferred for-
ward, putting the required pressure onto the skis and
SPECIAL TOOLS reducing the pressure on the rear suspension, position C.
cian when servicing the rear suspension.
Description p/n
Shock Absorber Air Pump 2603-614
Shock Absorber Air Pump (Dual Digital) 0641-257
Idler Wheel Puller Kit 0644-570 0728-181
Rear Suspension Spring Tool 0144-311 This is essentially what weight transfer is all about — the
Handlebar Stand 5639-152 shift of weight to the rear of the machine for positive
Steering Post Stand 5639-946 traction and good acceleration or to the front of the
machine for positive handling and cornering control.
UNDERSTANDING THE SUSPENSION Suspension Setup Basics
Quick acceleration and the ability to go through the turns
with power are the most important handling qualities.
SKI SHOCK ABSORBER SPRINGS
This section explains how the skid frame functions to
provide these two important handling qualities. Before The shock absorber springs have been matched to the
proceeding, however, note these terms. shock valving and rear suspension. These springs are the
result of hours of testing and comparison riding trying
Weight Transfer — A shift in the center of gravity in many different combinations of springs and shocks. If
any direction depends on the force applied. changes are necessary, several spring and shock sizes are
Track Tension — The amount of tightness or looseness available. While making these changes, keep the follow-
of the track when correctly mounted in the chassis. ing points in mind.
Spring Tension — The amount of force exerted on the Heavier/Stiffer Springs

spring by either fork tension adjustment or eye bolt 1. These will require shocks with more rebound con-
adjustment. trol, or the front end will become like a pogo stick.
Ski Pressure — The amount of force exerted downward 2. Less aggressive steering in corners on deceleration,
on the skis. and less weight is transferred to the skis because of
softer springs.
Good weight transfer characteristics are needed for fast
acceleration (shift of weight from skis to track) and for 3. Less weight gets transferred to the rear of the snow-
cornering (shift of weight back to skis to hold the front mobile upon acceleration.
end in turns). Effective weight transfer depends on sus-
pension tension, position of rider, and the position of the NOTE: When stiffening the ski shock springs, also
front arm limiter. stiffen the rear to match entire suspension.
To understand how the suspension system works, think of Spring Tension Too Soft
the entire system in terms of three points; the skid frame 1. Front end bottoms out; hard on front end parts.
rear axle center, the skid frame front arm, and the ski sad-
dle center. 2. With softer springs, the front end will become more
aggressive in the corners as more weight will be
Assume that the front arm functions as a stationary pivot transferred to the skis when decelerating. Also, more
point between the rear axle center and the ski saddle cen- weight is transferred to the rear on acceleration and
ter. Also assume that the ski saddle center is the same may can cause the front arm shock and spring to bot-
height off the ground as the rear axle center. This pro- tom out.
duces the standard position arrangement.
NOTE: When softening the ski springs, also soften
the rear to match entire suspension.
CAUTION
If the ski shock spring is adjusted too loose, the spring
retainer may fall out. If the spring is adjusted beyond
0728-180 specification, the spring will coil bind and spring
adjuster damage will occur.
187
ADJUSTING SKI SHOCKS (Fox Float) NOTE: Adding air pressure will increase the air
The float shocks are individually adjustable for the ter- spring force; reducing air pressure will decrease air
rain conditions and driving style of the operator. The ski spring force.
shocks are initially preset at the factory (see the General
Information section). However, the shocks can be “fine ! WARNING
tuned” to match the operator’s weight, riding style, and Do not exceed 10.5 kg/cm2 (150 psi) in the shock and 21
terrain conditions.
kg/cm2 (300 psi) in the EVOL (if equipped).
NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pressure
in the shocks before operating the snowmobile. 1. With all the weight removed from the front of the
snowmobile, remove the air valve cap from the
To increase or decrease air pressure, use the following shock; then thread the valve of Shock Absorber Air
procedure. Pump onto the shock air valve approximately six
rotations.
NOTE: The shocks should not be under load when
adjusting. NOTE: As the pump is being attached to the shock,
the hose will fill with air resulting in a lower gauge
NOTE: Adding air pressure will increase the air pressure 0.14-3.52 kg/cm2 (2-5 psi).
spring force; reducing air pressure will decrease air
spring force. 2. To decrease air pressure in the shock, press the black
bleed valve button half way down and hold until
! WARNING desired pressure is attained.
Do not exceed 10.5 kg/cm2 (150 psi) in the shock and 21 NOTE: Pressing the button fully down and releasing
kg/cm2 (300 psi) in the EVOL (if equipped). it will allow only a small amount of air to escape
(micro-adjust).
1. With all the weight removed from the front of the
snowmobile, remove the air valve cap from the 3. To increase air pressure in the shock, pump until
shock; then thread the valve of Shock Absorber Air desired pressure is attained.
Pump onto the shock air valve approximately six 4. Remove the pump valve from the shock air valve.
rotations.
NOTE: As the pump valve is being removed from
NOTE: As the pump is being attached to the shock,
the shock, the sound of air loss is from the pump hose,
the hose will fill with air resulting in a lower gauge
not from the shock.
pressure 0.14-3.52 kg/cm2 (2-5 psi).
5. Install the air valve cap onto the shock.
2. To decrease air pressure in the shock, press the black
bleed valve button half way down and hold until FRONT ARM SPRING TENSION
desired pressure is attained. Having very light front arm spring tension is desirable.
NOTE: Pressing the button fully down and releasing When riding in 4 in. or more of snow, the machine will be
it will allow only a small amount of air to escape quicker if the front spring tension is adjusted lightly.
(micro-adjust). If the spring tension is adjusted too stiff, the track angle
3. To increase air pressure in the shock, pump until at the front of the skid frame is steep. This steep angle
desired pressure is attained. prevents the snowmobile from getting up on plane and
slows down by 5 to 8 mph. Also, the following could
4. Remove the pump valve from the shock air valve. occur.
NOTE: As the pump valve is being removed from 1. Slows machine down in loose snow.
the shock, the sound of air loss is from the pump hose,
not from the shock. 2. Causes the snowmobile to dart and dive as a result of
less track on the ground on deceleration.
5. Install the air valve cap onto the shock. NOTE: A tight front arm works well under only two
ADJUSTING REAR ARM SHOCKS (Fox conditions: sticky snow conditions in the spring of the
Float) year and in hill climbing on hard packed snow.
The float shock is adjustable for the terrain conditions With the front arm adjusted too soft, the spring retainer
and driving style of the operator. The shocks is initially may fall off of the spring.
preset at the factory. However, the shock can be “fine
tuned” to match the operator’s weight, riding style, and
terrain conditions.
To increase or decrease air pressure, use the following
procedure.
NOTE: The shock should not be under load when
adjusting. Raise the rear end of the snowmobile.
188
When riding in sticky snow (springtime or warm days) or
hill climbing on hard snow, it may be desirable to stiffen
the front arm spring tension. When this is done, weight is
transferred back quicker. The problem with too much
front arm spring tension is that the feel of the snowmo-
bile becomes very short. The reason for this is the front
arm becomes the pivot point between the spindles and
rear of the snowmobile. With dominant spring tension on
the front arm, the suspension is basically contacting the
snow from a point below the front arm to the skis or the
spindle pressure point. This makes for a very short and
darting snowmobile on the trail. This is especially true
when decelerating and the center of gravity is transferred
forward.
0745-159
A method for adjusting the front spring tension follows.
REAR ARM SPRING TENSION
NOTE: The spring tension should be set as soft as The rear spring tension is adjusted for the weight of the
possible when operating on trails and in deep snow. driver. Three possible adjustments exist.
1st block position - set for up to 150 lb
2nd block position - set for 150 to 200 lb
3rd block position - set for over 200 lb
0729-662
FRONT ARM LIMITER STRAPS

Under no circumstances should the front arm limiter
strap be lengthened. If lengthened, it may cause shock SNO-595
absorber travel problems. NOTE: When making any changes to the front or
The two limiter straps can be shortened to suit driving rear suspension, the change should be made at both
style and some test driving time. With the rear arm in its ends to keep the suspension balanced. For example,
present mounting location, no advantage has been noted installing stiffer springs in front may require install-
from changing the strap length. If the front arm straps are ing the next step stiffer spring in back to keep every-
shortened, the result will be more ski pressure and thing in balance.
aggressive steering.
ADJUSTING REAR ARM COUPLER
REAR ARM SHOCK SPRING (M/XF) The rear arm coupler provides advantages over the stan-
Proper adjustment of rear arm shock absorber spring dard suspension.
pre-load is necessary to get the most desirable ride.
First, with the coupler system, ski lift under acceleration
The rear arm shock spring is adjustable for the terrain is greatly reduced which provides improved handling.
conditions and driving style and weight of the operator. Second, when riding through rough terrain, the rear sus-
The spring adjuster nut has been set at the factory so the pension arm receives some needed assistance from the
correct amount of threads are exposed between the front arm shock and spring as the rear arm is fully col-
adjuster nut and the threaded shock body as an initial set- lapsed and locked up by the coupler blocks. The front
ting. arm then starts to collapse the shocks and spring which
assist the rear springs. The result is a smoother ride for
Rear spring pre-load adjustment is accomplished by loos- the operator.
ening the adjuster nut locking collar (B) from the adjuster
nut (A) and using the Spring Adjuster Tool from the tool If additional coupler action is desired, the coupler blocks
kit, rotating the adjuster nut in whichever direction is can be set to the number 2 or 3 position. Each of the cou-
desired. Tighten the locking collar against the adjuster pler blocks has three positions numbered on the inside
nut. surface of the block. When changing the block position,
change both to the same number. To make the coupler
adjustment, follow the procedure below.
1. Loosen the two cap screws that secure the coupler
blocks to the inside of the suspension rails.
189
2. Rotate the coupler blocks to the desired position 3. Place a 4-in. block of wood under the rear of the sus-
making sure both are set the same. pension just in front of the rear idler wheels to assist
in collapsing the suspension.
4. Collapse the rear suspension until the rear arm is
firmly against the coupler blocks aligning the two
blocks squarely with the arm. While in this position,
tighten the two cap screws securely.
0747-212
190
Chassis and Skid Frame Mounting Locations
The suspensions have several possible mounting loca-
tions in the slide rails and tunnel. However, Arctic Cat CAUTION
recommends that when disassembling and assembling All stock mounting locations must be used. If any alter-
the suspension, all stock mounting locations be used as ations to the skid frame are made, shock absorber and
shown in the following illustrations. suspension damage may occur.
129”/137” Models
0749-567
XF 141” Models
0747-988
191
M/141” High Country Models
0747-414
192
Servicing Suspension
This sub-section has been organized so each procedure

can be completed individually and efficiently.
NOTE: Some components may vary from model to
model. The technician should use discretion and
sound judgment when removing and installing com-
ponents.
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec- SNO-592
essary.
2. Using a hammer, tap the end cap off the rail.
Removing Skid Frame 1. Inspect the end cap area of the slide rail for cracks
and wear.
NOTE: Many service procedures can be performed 2. Inspect the end cap for any signs of cracking or wear.
without removing the skid frame. The technician 3. Clean both the slide rail area and the end cap. Using
should use discretion and sound judgment when compressed air, clean the areas of dirt and gravel.
removing and installing components.
1. Loosen the two track-tension adjusting bolts; then on ! WARNING
the ZR, remove the suspension springs from the Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses when
blocks using Rear Suspension Spring Tool. using compressed air.
2. Place a support stand under the rear bumper; then 4. Inspect the cap screw for cracked, stretched, or dam-
while holding the flared bushing, remove the rear aged threads. Use a new lock nut when assembling.
arm assembly cap screws securing the skid frame to
the tunnel. INSTALLING
1. Position the end cap on the slide rail; then align the
NOTE: The support stand should hold the snowmo-
hole in the end cap with the hole in the slide rail.
bile level but not raised off the floor.
2. Secure with a cap screw, washers, and lock nut.
3. Remove the support stand; then using an appropriate Tighten to 80 in.-lb.
handlebar/steering post stand, tip the snowmobile
onto one side.
4. On the ZR, slide the skid frame rearward far enough Wear Strips
to drop the front arm out of the slider axle; then
remove the skid frame.
5. On the M and XF, remove the two cap screws and REMOVING
nuts securing the front of the skid frame to the chas- 1. Remove the machine screw and lock nut securing the
sis. Account for two washers. wear strip to the front of the slide rail.
End Caps
REMOVING
1. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the end
cap.
SNO-591
2. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows) in

the track; then using a suitable driving tool, drive the
wear strip rearward off the slide rail.
193
Idler Wheels/Mounting
Blocks
REMOVING
1. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the idler
wheel to the idler wheel mounting block; then
remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
mounting block to the slide rail.
739-884A

1. Clean the slide rail using parts-cleaning solvent and
compressed air.
! WARNING
Always wear an approved pair of safety glasses when
using compressed air.
2. Inspect the slide rail for cracks. If any cracks are

found, replace the slide rail.
3. Using a straightedge, inspect the slide rail for any SNO-593
unusual bends. With the slide rail removed, place the

straightedge along the bottom surface of the slide 2. Account for a flat washer from the idler wheel cap
rail. If the rail is found to be bent, it must be screw.
replaced. CLEANING AND INSPECTING
INSTALLING 1. Clean the bearing with a clean cloth.
NOTE: Use a file to remove any sharp edges on the 2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
lower portion of the rail.
3. Rotate the idler wheel bearing (by hand) and inspect
1. Align the wear strip with the openings (windows) in for binding or roughness.
the track and from the back, start the wear strip onto
the rail; then using a block of wood and a hammer, INSTALLING
drive the wear strip forward into position. 1. Secure the mounting block on the slide rail with a
2. Secure with a machine screw and lock nut. Tighten cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to 10 ft-lb.
to 50 in.-lb. NOTE: For proper alignment, install an idler wheel
cap screw into the top mounting block hole prior to
tightening.
Shock Pads 2. Place the idler wheel to the mounting block; then
secure the idler wheel assembly with a cap screw, flat
REMOVING
washer, and a lock nut. Tighten to 10 ft-lb.
1. Remove torx-head screws and nuts securing the
shock pads.
Front Arm Assembly
2. Remove the rear shock pads.
INSPECTING NOTE: To service the front arm assembly on the RR
1. Inspect the pads for damage or wear. models, proceed to Front Arm Assembly (RR) in this
sub-section.
2. Inspect the rivet holes in the slide rail for damage or
elongation. REMOVING
INSTALLING 1. With the skid frame removed, remove the cap screws
and lock nuts securing the limiter straps to the front
1. Place the pads brackets into position on the slide rail. arm. Account for flat washers.
2. Secure the pads with existing torx-head screws and 2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
nuts. upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account for
a sleeve.
194
INSTALLING
1. Place the front arm shock axle assembly into position
on the skid frame making sure the spacers and wash-
ers are properly positioned. Secure with the cap
screw, washer, and a new lock nut. Tighten to 40
ft-lb.
2. On the side that the idler wheel and mounting block
were removed from, secure the mounting block on
the slide rail with a cap screw and lock nut. Tighten
to 20 ft-lb.
NOTE: For proper alignment, install an idler wheel
cap screw and lock nut into the top mounting block
ZJ271A hole prior to tightening.
3. Remove the lock nuts and cap screws securing the
rear shock pivot and rear shock to the front arm. 3. Secure the idler wheel to the mounting block with
both existing cap screw. Tighten cap screws to 20
ft-lb.
4. Install the axle into the front arm; then position the
front arm to the mounting location of the slide rail.
Secure with cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to 40
ft-lb.
NOTE: Move the rear arm assembly forward
enough to allow the rear arm springs to be installed
into the slide blocks.
5. Secure the rear shock pivot to the front arm with cap
screw and lock nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
XM004A
4. Remove the cap screws securing the front arm to the

rails.
5. Remove the front arm and account for the front arm
axle.
6. Remove the cap screw securing the front outer idler
wheel to the idler wheel mounting block. Account
for lock nut, cap screw, and flat washer.
7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the idler
wheel mounting block to the slide rail.
8. Remove the cap screws, washer, and lock nut from XM004A
the front shock axle; then from one side, tap the 6. Secure the upper shock eyelet and axle in the mount-
assembly forward far enough for the axle assembly ing hole of the front arm. Secure with a cap screw
to clear the slide rails. Account for an axle, two spac- and lock nut. Tighten securely.
ers, and two shim washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or unusual
bends; then inspect the front arm mounting brackets
for cracks and for elongated holes.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends.
3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, and front arm spacers
for wear or damage.
4. Inspect the shock absorber for damage and for any
signs of oil leakage especially at the point where the
shock shaft enters the shock body.
ZJ271A
5. Inspect the shock absorber eyelet welds (at each end)
NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber cap
for any cracks, signs of separation, or for unthread-
ing. screw as the shock eyelet must be free to pivot.
195
7. Secure the limiter straps to the front arm with cap
screws, washers, and lock nuts. Tighten to 72 in.-lb.
Front Arm Assembly (RR)
REMOVING
1. With the skid frame removed, remove the cap screws
(A) and lock nuts securing the limiter straps to the
front arm. Account for flat washers.
RR002
2. Secure the front shock absorber to the front arm

using existing cap screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
3. Secure the limiter straps to the front arm using exit-
ing cap screws, washers and nuts. Tighten to 72
in.-lb.
Rear Arm Assembly (ZR)
RR001A
NOTE: To service the rear arm assembly on the RR
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the models, proceed to Rear Arm Assembly (RR) in this
upper front shock absorber eyelet to the front arm. sub-section.
Pull the shock eyelet free of the bracket. Account for REMOVING
two spacers and two O-rings.
1. With the skid frame removed using the Rear Suspen-
3. Remove the cap screw (A) and axle (B) securing the sion Spring Tool, remove the spring from the adjust-
front arm to the rails Account for two washers. ing cam.
! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or dam-
age or injury could result.
2. Mark the offset arm and the idler arm for assembly
purposes.
RR002A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all front arm weldments for cracks or unusual
bends; then inspect the front arm mounting brackets
for cracks and for elongated holes.
2. Closely inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual
bends. FZ034
3. Loosen the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

3. Inspect the bearings, bushings, and front arm spacers offset arm assembly to the idler arm; then remove the
for wear or damage. offset arm assembly. Account for a flanged axle,
INSTALLING idler spacer, and washer.
1. Install the existing washers onto both axles; then
install the axles into the front arm and secure using
existing cap screws (threads coated with blue Loctite
#243). Tighten to 50 ft-lb.
196
9. Remove the cap screw securing the rear arm to the
idler arm. Account for the aluminum axle.
FZ035A
4. Remove the idler wheel.

NOTE: Use the Idler Wheel Puller Kit to remove FZ101A
the wheel. 10. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the rear
arm to the slide rail. Account for the serrated axles
and axle tube.
FZ037
5. Remove the cap screw, flat washer, and lock nut

securing the spring slide to the slide rail. Account for FZ103A
the spring slide and all mounting hardware. CLEANING AND INSPECTING
6. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm. 1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.
NOTE: Use the same procedure for the other side. 2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the 3. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot area)
upper shock eyelet to the idler arm; then remove the for wear or damage.
cap screw and lock nut securing the upper shock link
to the idler arm. Account for the cap screws, lock 4. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the rear arm/idler
nuts, and sleeves. arm for cracks or unusual bends.
8. Remove the cap screw (A) and lock nut securing the 5. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage.
rear arm shock absorber to the rear shock pivot; then 6. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and check
remove the cap screw (B) and lock nut securing the for binding or roughness.
shock absorber link to the pivot and account for the
cap screws, lock nuts, and sleeves. 7. If a bearing must be replaced, see Idler
Wheels/Mounting Blocks - Cleaning and Inspecting
in this sub-section.
INSTALLING
1. Place the rear arm assembly into position between
the slide rails. Secure with a cap screw and lock nut.
FZ102A
197
FZ103A 0742-877
2. Install the rear arm onto the idler arm with an alumi- 4. With the sleeves installed, install the shock absorber
num axle and two cap screws. Tighten to 40 ft-lb. link to the lower mounting hole of the idler arm
along with the cap screw and lock nut; then secure
the shock absorber to the idler arm with cap screws
and lock nuts. Tighten securely.
NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber cap

screw as the shock eyelet must be free to pivot.
NOTE: Install the rear arm springs onto the
adjuster blocks after the skid frame has been
installed.
5. Slide the sleeve and spring onto the idler arm.
6. Place the spring slide and slide block (with spring in
slide block) into position on the slide rail. Secure
FZ101A
with a cap screw and washer. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
3. With the sleeves installed, install the shock absorber
link to the lower mounting hole of the rear shock 7. With wheel insertion tool, install the rear upper idler
pivot; then install the shock absorber with cap screws wheel on the idler arm.
(A) and (B) and lock nuts. Tighten securely.
CAUTION
When driving the idler wheel onto the idler arm, use a
tool to contact the inside race of the bearing or damage
to the wheel or bearing may occur.
FZ102A
CAUTION
When installing the shock absorber link, note that the
offset of the link eyelets are directed away from the rear
arm shock absorber for proper clearance. MS072A
8. Install the idler spacer collar onto the idler arm.
198
REMOVING
1. With the skid frame removed using the Rear Suspen-
sion Spring Tool, remove the springs from the adjust-
ing cams.
! WARNING
Care must be taken when removing the spring or dam-
age or injury could result.
2. Mark the offset arm and the idler arm for assembly
purposes.
FZ047
9. Place the flared bushing with a thin flat washer

through the notched side of the offset arm assembly.
NOTE: If the flared bushing in the offset arm is
loose, it must be cleaned and green Loctite #609 must
be applied to it prior to installation.
10. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline of
the offset arm assembly. Secure the offset arm to the
idler arm with cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
FZ034
3. Loosen the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

offset arm assembly to the idler arm; then remove the
offset arm assembly. Account for a flanged axle,
idler spacer, and washer.
4. Remove the upper idler wheel.
5. Remove the spring and sleeve from the idler arm.
Repeat for opposite side.
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper rear shock absorber eyelet to the rear arm.
Account for two spacers and two O-rings.
FZ048A
NOTE: When tightening the offset arm lock nuts,

tighten the upper lock nut first to ensure an even
clamp load. Make sure the flared side of the bushing
is directed outward.
11. Grease the idler arm and rear arm grease fittings with
an all-temperature grease.
Rear Arm Assembly (RR)
XM089
7. Remove the cap screw and nut securing the rear

shock links to the rear arm. Account for one axle.
8. Remove the cap screw securing the rear arm to the
idler arm. Account for the aluminum axle.
9. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the rear
arm to the slide rail. Account for the axle tube.
SNO-265
199
7. Align the marks on the idler arm to the centerline of
the offset arm assembly. Secure the offset arm to the
idler arm with cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
XM090A
INSTALLING
1. Slide the axle tube into the rear arm; then position
the rear arm with the holes in the slide rails. Secure
using existing cap screws (threads coated with blue FZ048A
Loctite #243. Tighten to 20 ft-lb. NOTE: When tightening the offset arm lock nuts,
tighten the upper lock nut first to ensure an even
clamp load. Make sure the flared side of the bushing
is directed outward.
Rear Arm Assembly (M/XF)
DISASSEMBLING
1. With the skid frame removed, remove the snap ring
XM090A
securing the rear arm idler wheels to the inner car-
riage axle and account for the wave washers; then
2. Install the aluminum axle into the idler arm; then remove the axle from the idler arm.
position the idler arm between the rear arm and
secure using existing cap screws (thread coated with
blue Loctite #243. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.
3. Loosely secure the rear shock links to the idler arm
using existing cap screw and nut.
4. With both O-rings and spacers, secure the rear shock
absorber to the idler arm using existing cap screws
and lock nut. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.
XM001A
XM089
5. Install both spring sleeves onto the rear arm; then

install the suspension springs into the spring slides
then onto the idler arm.
6. Install spacers onto the idler arm.
CM232
200
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
upper shock eyelet to the idler arm; then remove the
cap screw and lock nut securing the rear shock link
to the idler arms.
XM007A

1. Clean the bearings with a clean cloth.
XM003A 2. Inspect each idler wheel for cracks or damage.
rear arm shock absorber and shock link to the offset 3. Inspect the bushings (located in the arm pivot area)
arm. for wear or damage.
4. Inspect all welds and the tubing of the upper arm for
cracks or unusual bends.
5. Inspect the two adjusting cams for damage.
6. Rotate the idler wheel bearings (by hand) and check
for binding or roughness.
7. If a bearing must be replaced, see Idler
Wheels/Mounting Blocks - Cleaning and Inspecting
in this sub-section.
ASSEMBLING
1. Place the rear arm assembly into position between
the slide rails. Secure with existing cap screws.
XM004A Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
NOTE: With the rear arm shock and shock link
removed, account for the four sleeves.
arm to the idler arm. Account for the aluminum axle
and flared bushings.
XM007A
2. Install the idler arm onto the rear arm with an alumi-
num axle, bushing assemblies, and two cap screws.
XM006A
NOTE: To loosen and remove the remaining cap

screw from the rear arm/idler arm, it may be neces-
sary to reinstall the cap screw.
arm to the slide rail. Account for the bushings and
axle tube.
201
XM006A XM002
3. With the sleeves installed, place the shock absorber 6. Turn the slide rail onto the side the idler wheel was
and shock link between the offset arm bracket. installed in (from step 5); then with a block of wood
Secure with the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten placed under the inner carriage axle/idler arm, install
securely. a wave washer.
XM004A XM005
NOTE: Do not over-tighten the shock absorber cap 7. Install the remaining idler wheel along with the snap
screw as the shock eyelet must be free to pivot. ring onto the axle; then using a suitable driving tool,
carefully drive the snap ring into the idler wheel until
4. With the sleeves installed, position the shock link in properly seated in the groove of the axle.
the appropriate holes of the idler arm brackets and
shock absorber; then insert the cap screw through the
eyelets. Secure with the cap screws and lock nuts.
Tighten securely.
XM001A
XM003A
5. Install the inner carriage axle to the idler arm; then Rear Axle/Idler Wheels
install a wave washer and idler wheel. Secure with
the snap ring.
DISASSEMBLING REAR AXLE
1. Remove both cap screws and washers and securing
rear wheel assembly to the rails.
202
Installing Skid Frame
1. Using a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect

against scratching and an appropriate handle-
bar/steering post stand, tip the snowmobile onto one
side.
2. Pull the track away from the tunnel and spread open;
then place the skid frame into the track.
3. On the ZR, position the front of the skid frame into
the tunnel and engage the front arm with the slider
FZ104
axle in the tunnel.
2. Loosen the track adjusting bolts then carefully
remove the rear axle assembly from the skid frame.
0742-187
4. On the M and XF, secure the front of the skid frame

ZJ266 to the tunnel using the existing cap screws, flat wash-
ers, and lock nuts.
ASSEMBLING REAR AXLE
NOTE: To aid in centering the front arm with the
hole in the tunnel, position the skid frame and track
at a 45° angle to the bottom of the tunnel.
5. Push the rear of the skid frame and the track into the
tunnel.
6. Align the rear arm assembly with the appropriate
hole in the tunnel. Secure the rear arm assembly with
a cap screw, lock washer, and flat washer. AT THIS
TIME, TIGHTEN ONLY UNTIL SNUG.
7. Tip the snowmobile onto the other side; then align
the offset arm assembly with the appropriate hole in
the tunnel. Secure the rear arm assembly with a cap
SNO-2239A screw, lock washer, and flat washer. AT THIS TIME,
1. If the rear idler wheels were separated, install both TIGHTEN ONLY UNTIL SNUG.
wheels onto the axle and secure using the existing NOTE: Do not install the short legs of the rear
cap screws (B) and nuts (A). Tighten to 80 in.-lb. springs onto the adjusting cams at this time.
2. Place the adjuster bushings (C) on the axle; then 8. At this time, place the snowmobile to the upright
install the idler wheels and secure with two cap position; then tighten all cap screws to 40 ft-lb.
screws (D) (coated with blue Loctite #243) and flat
washers. Tighten cap screws only until snug. 9. On the ZR, using the Rear Suspension Spring Tool,
install the short legs of the rear springs onto the
NOTE: Tighten the rear idler wheel axle only until adjusting cams making sure the cams are in the same
snug until the skid frame has been installed and track adjustment positions.
tension has been adjusted; then the axle assembly
must be tightened to 34 ft-lb. 10. Adjust track tension and track alignment.
3. Install the skid frame. CAUTION
After proper track tension and alignment have been
attained, make certain that the rear axle cap screws
tightened to specifications or component damage will
occur.
203
FOX Air Shocks
AIR LEAKAGE POINTS

NOTE: When attaching the air pump, the hose and
gauge will fill with air from the air chamber resulting
in a lower air pressure reading than the shock was
originally set at. This is normal.
1. Check for leaks at room temperature and cold tem-
peratures. Set the shock outside overnight during the
winter months. SNO-66
2. Charge the shock to 100 PSI; then fill a 5 gallon pale

of water.
Servicing IFP Shock
3. Remove the air valve cap(s) and submerge the shock
in water. Look for air bubbles to determine if a seal
or O-ring has failed. SPECIAL TOOLS
cian when servicing the rear suspension.
Description p/n
Piston Location (IFP) Tool 0644-575
Inflation Needle Tool 0744-020
Rear Suspension Spring Tool 0144-311
Shock Body Clamping Tool 0644-486
Shock Rod Clamp Tool 0644-425
Bearing Cap Seal Protector Tool 0644-268/403/404
Shock Spring Removal Tool 0644-057

NOTE: If service work is needed on any FOX
shocks, the shock will have to be removed and sent to
FOX or any FOX distributor for any service work.
For FOX shock information log on to www.ride-
fox.com.
! WARNING
SNO-663 Before any service is performed on the gas shock
4. If service work is needed on any FOX shocks, the absorber, first discharge all pressure from the shock
shock will have to be removed and sent to FOX or remote reservoir. Remove the valve screw from the
any FOX distributor for any service work. For FOX pressure valve and insert the Inflation Needle. Open
shock information log on to www.ridefox.com. valve until all pressure is released. Failure to do this
may cause personal injury.
REPLACING AIR VALVE/O-RING
1. If an air leak is detected around the air valve, remove REMOVING/CLEANING
and discard the existing air valve and O-ring. Install 1. Remove the shock from the snowmobile; then
new air valve and O-ring. Tighten to 35 in-lb. remove the spring from the shock body using the
shock spring removal tool.
2. Wash the shock body in parts-cleaning solvent.
DISASSEMBLING
1. Remove the screw from the bottom of the shock.
Discharge all the pressure from the shock using the
Inflation Needle. Open the valve in filler handle until
all pressure is released.
204
4. Clamp the shock rod and valve assembly in bench
vise; then remove the nut securing the valve stack.
ZR-004
ZR-011
NOTE: Placing the valve stack on a screwdriver

when removing from the shock rod will allow the
shims and valve to stay in order.
5. Remove the bearing end cap.
6. Items to inspect:
A. Shock rod for straightness, nicks, or burrs.
B. Bearing end cap — clean, inspect, or replace.
ZR-017 C. Inside of shock body for scratches, burrs, or exces-
2. Using a 1-in. wrench, loosen the bearing assembly sive wear.
and remove the shock rod and valve assembly from D. Piston strap for cuts, chipped or nicked edges, or
the shock body. excessive wear.
E. O-rings for nicks, cuts, or cracks.
F. Valves for kinks or waves.
G. Rubber damper (ski shocks only) for chipping,
cracking, or being missing.
7. Items to replace:
A. Floating piston O-ring.
B. Shock shaft bearing cap if any signs of oil leaks or
damage.
C. Any part worn or damaged.
ZR-003 ASSEMBLING
1. Lubricate the O-rings in the bearing end cap; then
install the bearing cap seal protector onto the end of
the shock rod. Install the bearing end cap.
ZR-016
3. Pour the oil from the shock body into a suitable con-
tainer; then hang the shock body upside down and let
it drip into the container.
ZR-013
205
2. Install the valve stack onto the shock rod; then secure
using the existing nut. Tighten to 15 ft-lb.
ZR-008
5. Fill shock body with new synthetic shock oil to bot-

tom of threads.
ZR-014
ZR-010 ZR-007
3. Using Piston Location (IFP) Tool or a tape measure, 6. With the bearing cap positioned at the top of the
make sure the floating piston is at the correct depth shock rod, install the piston/valve stack into the
in the shock body (according to the chart in the spec- shock body; then gently tap the top of the rod eyelet
ifications section of the manual). with a soft hammer until the piston/valve stack is just
below the oil.
NOTE: Using a torch, carefully wave the flame over
the top of the shock oil to remove any air bubbles.
ZR-009
4. If the floating piston is not at the correct depth, use

the floating piston location gauge to set the piston to
the correct depth in the shock body.
ZR-006
7. Slide the bearing cap down to the shock body and

into the oil; then while holding the shock rod in
place, begin to thread the cap into the body. As the
cap threads into the body, oil will escape. Lift
slightly on the shaft while threading until the O-ring
contacts the shock body. Tighten the bearing cap to
50 ft-lb.
206
9. Install the screw into the shock body.
ZR-003
8. With shock oil around the seals in the bearing cap

and on the shock rod, slowly compress the shock rod ZR-004
until the shock eyelet bottoms out. Pressurize the 10. Compress the shock eyelet until it bottoms out; then
shock with nitrogen to 200 psi and until the shock the shock eyelet should fully extended. Wash the
eyelet fully extends. shock and install the spring.
INSTALLING
1. Place the shock into position on the snowmobile.
2. Secure with existing hardware and bushings.
ZR-018
207
NOTES
208
Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks of Arctic Cat Inc., Thief River Falls, MN 56701 p/n 2260-847

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SERVICE MANUAL

All materials and specifications are subject to change CAUTION

Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles. Drive

4. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth. CAUTION

After Break-In  Check steering hardware for tightness

Compression Ratio 6.62:1 Runout D

VALVE POSITION CYCLE RPM

APV CABLE LENGTH

Component Test Value + Test Connections -

Drive Clutch/Driven Drive System Components

Chain Case Performance

Drive Gear Ratio Chain Engine RPM

SPRINGS Torque Conversions

* w/Green Loctite #609

This section has been organized into sub-sections for ser-

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Steering Post (ZR/XF)

3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the SNO-357

Steering Post (XF HC)

4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering

3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the SNO-2226B

10. Remove the two cap screws securing the existing

7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut securing the tie

7. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis

Steering Post (M)

3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the

6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the exist-

12. Remove the cap screws securing the existing steering

3. Install the secondary steering post into position and

5. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis

9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering

12. Install the hood and both access panels.

NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the

Steering Tie Rod

NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie

5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to

2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod

3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid SNO-226A

A-Arms (XF HC/M)

NOTE: Always use new lock nuts when replacing

7. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing

5. Using a 19 mm wrench, tighten the hex nut against

3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each

2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base

Seat Assembly SNO-1206

1. Remove the two machine screws securing the tail-

1. Drill out the four rivets securing the snowflap to the

NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is fragile.

4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position

brake lever lock.

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

NOTE: For assembling purposes, note cable tie

8. Remove the cap screws securing the MAG-side front

17. Remove the four screws securing the PTO-side

3. Install new MAG-side engine mount “patch-lock”

Torque Specification Tolerances