Xlendi Walk: L-Imġarr To Ix-Xlendi: 12Km
Xlendi Walk: L-Imġarr To Ix-Xlendi: 12Km
Xlendi Walk: L-Imġarr To Ix-Xlendi: 12Km
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Xlendi Walk
Starting: L-Imġarr Harbour
Ending: Ix-Xlendi
Length: 12Km
Grading: Moderate, partly along clifftop
Landscape: Coastal, Countryside
Trail markings
Getting there and back: Gozo Channel operates regular
ferries to L-Imġarr harbour leaving from iċ-Ċirkewwa in
Malta. Buses leave from Ix-Xlendi to Victoria where a
return bus can be taken to the harbour.
Recommended Walking season: October to May
Dwejra Walk
Comino Walk
Ramla Walk
Saltpans Walk
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Overview
From southeast to southwest this route takes you from L-Imġarr
Harbour to Ix-Xlendi Bay taking in the lower lying coast at Xatt l-Aħmar
to the fjord-like bay of Mġarr ix-Xini past its coastal Tower standing
guard since the time of the Knights of St. John. The walk proceeds up
to the higher grounds of the village of Ta’ Sannat perched close to the
edge of the majestic vertical cliffs of the southern coast. The clifftop
route enjoys the best views of this wild landscape before turning
slightly inland within the confines of Munxar down to Ix-Xlendi Bay.
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Notes
COUNTRYSIDE CODE
• Refrain from collecting or causing damage to any specimens of flora,
fauna, geological items or archaeological artefacts.
• Tread lightly and avoid disturbance.
• Keep to the paths.
• Do not litter or light fires.
• Keep away from the cliff edge.
HUNTING
During your walk, as in most of the countryside, you will encounter
many small stone huts – the local dura – a hut used by bird hunters or
trappers. Do keep this in mind when walking – typically the sign ‘RTO’
(Reserved To Owner) will often mean that it is privately owned land.
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L-Imġarr Harbour
T
his walk starts at L-Imġarr
Harbour from in front of the ferry
Passenger Terminal. This is the
only all-weather harbour in Għawdex traditional colours. The specific colours
(Gozo) and is a constant busy hub with used for the moustache of the fishing
passenger ferries operating regularly to boats used to allow for easy recognition
Malta, smaller boats ferrying people to of their place of origin. The bow has kept
Kemmuna (Comino) and back, as well its typical decorations namely depicting
as a seaplane taking passengers to the the eye of Horus. Said to ward off the
Grand Harbour of Il-Belt Valletta. Most of evil eye, this ancient seafaring protective
the Gozitan fishing fleet finds a safe berth measure could possibly have been
here sheltered from the most insidious inherited by the Phoenicians.
winds as do many pleasure boats moored The route starts just opposite the
at the only yacht marina on the island. Passenger Terminal and past the
Some traditional fishing boats such Gleneagles Bar. At the top of the few steps
as the Maltese Luzzu can still be seen in leading to the busy main road be very
the harbour in stark contrast with more careful in crossing. Take the road on the left
modern vessels, having abandoned oars under the imposing sanctuary and climb
and sails to engines it still retains the up the first flight of steps on your right*.
*DETOUR: On calm days if you are an experienced walker you can also attempt the rugged coastline
round the western corner of the harbour).
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Fort Chambray’s
vedette overlooking
Ix-Xatt l-Aħmar
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Mġarr ix-Xini Tower
and Fessej Rock
at the entrance to
the bay
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Tree Spurge
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Mġarr ix-Xini Bay
a metre long carved on the rockface. This Locate the steep rocky steps at the
inlet was used by the Knights as a place for end of the path and descend down to the
careening their galleys. “Careening” consists bay – take your time and be careful as
of an operation by which a ship is turned the rocks are slippery and narrow. Enjoy
onto its side usually in order to make repairs a well earned rest before proceeding
or to clean off barnacles from the hull. along the uphill part of the route.
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Olive-leaved
Germander found on exposed, often soil-less plateaus.
The valley has been proposed as a regional
park by two local councils sharing the area
– Xewkija and Ta’ Sannat. Whilst the bay
is popular with bathers and SCUBA divers,
the rocky valley itself provides some good
rock climbing.
Archaeological excavations on one
side of the valley have been revealing
interesting finds showing that the area
has long been popular for various uses.
One site revealed its possible ritualistic
role as a shrine in Punic/Roman times
whilst elsewhere numerous troughs cut
in the rock possibly for pressing grapes
appear to indicate an ancient viticulture
industry dating back to Classical times.
The route follows the only road leading
up from the bay and running alongside
the valley thus enabling some good
views of Wied Ħanżira to the right. An old
abandoned water pumping station lies on
the valley side*.
At about 1.5km inland from the
bay take the left turn to start up this
steep escarpment created by a major
geological fault running below the village
Mediterranean Thyme in flower (early summer)
of Ta’ Sannat.
The relatively flat plain beneath is one
of the few on the island and it is still an
This meandering dry river valley (known important agricultural area today – the
in Maltese as wied) shows the powerful placename Ġnien is-Sultan (the King’s
action of ancient long gone rivers carving garden) traces its history as far back to
out the bedrock through the hardest, the Aragonese times when the land was
oldest rock layer of the islands – the Lower established as a fief by King Frederick III.
Coralline Limestone. The sheltered maquis Past the small lime kiln keep left and at
habitat provided by the wied with small the next crossroad go right past the bus
trees, large shrubs and lush vegetation stop. Follow Triq Iċ-Ċnus to its end and
offers a striking contrast to the otherwise head towards the cliffs by taking the rocky
prevalent low-lying garigue vegetation path to the right leading to the cliff-edge.
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Sand crocus
(late winter)
Golden Samphire
Keeping a safe distance from the edge to an old tradition, commonly adopted
do have a stop to enjoy these bewitching in other places in Gozo, the people of Ta’
natural rock precipices... remembering to Sannat were supposedly converted to
also turn your glance inland as this high Christianity when they heard St. Paul’s
plateau offers good views towards a good voice carried over the land and sea
part of the island and Ta’ Sannat itself with during his preaching on mainland Malta.
its surrounding farms. The first known records of a population
The parish of Ta’ Sannat was established established in the village go back to the
in 1688 and the main church in the village 17th century.
square is dedicated to its patron Saint The cliffs, which here reach heights
Margaret whose feast is celebrated every of over 140m above sea level are a
year around the end of July. According typical resulting landscape where the
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XLENDI WALK
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Sea Squill
Autumn narcissus
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Capers
Mediterranean Stonecrop
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The Citadella
*DETOUR: Alternatively you can keep going along the coast along a used path.
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The endemic and
walls of undressed loose stone is to protected Maltese
allow rainwater to pass through without Wall Lizard
carrying away the soil whilst at other
places they serve to protect from wind
erosion or simply to divide fields and
delineate pathways. These walls are
an intrinsic feature of the island’s rural
heritage. This is also of benefit to the
myriad of creatures which actually
inhabit the walls or use them for shelter
and hiding. These include almost all the
reptile species of Malta (snakes, lizards,
geckoes, skinks) as well as hedgehogs,
shrews and many invertebrates.
The path leaves the country road to
continue on the rocky valley bed of Wied
tal-Kantra along the old original path.
At the end of the rocky path take the
left turn into the terraced fields to reach
the promontory of Ras il-Bajjada with
another coastal watch tower guarding its
tip – the 17th Century Tower is dwarfed by
the inaccessible vertical reaches of the
next set of cliffs – the foreboding natural
fortification of limestone which also
stand guard over the bay of Ix-Xlendi.
Together with Mġarr ix-Xini, the partly
sunken valley of Ix-Xlendi offers the only
other accessible coastline for boats. It is Traditional dry stone walls abound in the
countryside
suggested that the placename Ix-Xlendi
has Byzantine or Arabic connotations
to its maritime legacy – Xelandion was the elements – an excellent showcase
a typical seacraft. The deceivingly easy of the sculpting effect of wind and sea
access has claimed many shipwrecks on the softer Globigerina Limestone
as is attested by a Roman wreck whose rock shaping it into smooth surfaces
amphorae still lie scattered some 60m contrasting with the sheer harshness of
underwater. The mouth of the bay is the the harder Lower Coralline Limestone
site of a nerve-wracking small reef rising layer forming a great chunk of the cliffs
perilously in the middle of it. opposite. A set of saltpans carved out of
Allow some time to enjoy the promontory the stone often gets filled with seawater
beneath the Tower, the nearby salt pans from the raging sea in wild weather – keep
and the curved limestone shaped by your distance in such events.
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Xlendi Bay
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Snippets
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The tower was built and
commissioned in 1650 when MĠARR IX-XINI
Grand Master Lascaris was at COAST WATCH TOWER
the helm of the Order of St. John
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in Malta. The main function of the tower Built during the reign of the
was to prevent smuggling and other Knights of St. John a coastal
contraband activity such as landing by watch tower still stands today
evaders of quarantine as well as to raise at the mouth of the fjord-like
the alarm when corsairing vessels were sunken valley of Mġarr ix-Xini which gives
seen approaching. Entrance to the tower it its name. Completed in 1661 the tower
was by means of an elevating drawbridge resembles closely the slightly earlier set of
now replaced by a masonry stone bridge 13 coastal towers in Malta erected by Grand
connecting the tower to the stairway. The Master De Redin.
tower’s last military role was played in During the Knights’ period the tower
World War II when it was used as a coast carried two iron guns and had a garrison
observation post manned by the Gozo of three men. It kept watch over the Gozo-
Coastal Police. After the war, the tower Comino channel and served to raise an
began to be leased to private persons. The early alarm in case of an incursion – which
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The Vedette
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easy landing sheltered from the prevailing The fougasse was a weapon
northwest wind. The fear was also founded used in coastal defence mainly to
in bitter experience as just a century earlier prevent an enemy from landing
the whole of Gozo had been depopulated in vulnerable parts of the coast.
and taken into slavery during a siege by the The fougasse is in effect a rock-hewn
Ottomans. Tradition has it that the nearby mortar or cannon excavated out of the
promontory is thought to have been the site rock in the shape of an inverted truncated
were over 5000 Gozitans were shipped to cone, wide at the top and tapering down
Tripoli as slaves. After the Order’s departure at the bottom where a powder chamber
the guards were provided by the Royal is located. Usually the mean diameter
Malta Fencible Regiment up to the 1870’s and depth of a fougasse are 2 metres and
but thereafter the tower tended to be 2.5 metres respectively. After the powder
abandoned. It briefly resumed its original chamber was filled, large amounts of
role when, during World War II, it was used stones of all sizes were packed into the
as a coast observation post by the Gozo shaft; on the gunpowder being ignited the
Coastal Police. The Tower was restored resulting explosion would cause a hail of
in 1999 on the initiative of Wirt Għawdex, stones to fall on the enemy attempting
a local voluntary heritage organization to land. Twelve fougasses were located
and part of the funds were raised by along the coast of Gozo.
sponsorships ofinidvidual blocks of stone. FORT CHAMBRAY
The tower can be visited by appointment
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via e-mail to [email protected] or by At the beginning of the 18th
visiting the website (www.wirtghawdex.org) century the only refuge available
for opening times. The Tower is open if the to the Gozitan population was
flag is flying the Citadel at Victoria which in
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addition to being too small was considered BIRD-LIFE
too weak to withstand a siege. The Order
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of St. John decided to build a new fortified Interestingly some of the old folk
city at a site overlooking Mgarr harbour songs provide an insight into
capable of accommodating the entire birds which used to breed in the
population and their livestock and the area. One such song refers to the
military engineer de Tignè was given the Ċawla (crow) singing in the valley of Mġarr
task of designing the fortress. ix-Xini for several years before it became
The funds for the construction of the extinct from the Maltese Islands. The valley
project were provided by the French also held the last couple of Barn Owls before
knight Jacques Françèois de Chambrai they were exterminated in the 80’s. Another
(1687-1756). song reminds us how the Peregrine Falcon
The fortress was designed to deny (the famous Maltese Falcon) nesting in the
the landing of an enemy force in the cliff cracks used to chase after wild pigeons.
L-Imġarr Harbour area and to keep watch
over vessels in the Comino channel. The
construction of the fortifications was
completed in 1762 but only a few of the
projected structures were built and the
new city failed to attract residents. It was
only once – at the time of Napoleon’s
invasion in 1798 that the inhabitants
sought refuge here but surrendered and
walked out after token resistance. The
Fort is currently being developed as a
residential area.
THE EMERGENCY
FLOUR MILLS
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In the 1950’s when Malta was still
part of the British Colony it was
decided to build underground
flour mills to serve as emergency
sources of food in case of eventual
conflicts. The one at Ix-Xlendi is the only
one to be found in Gozo.
All were built away from the danger Woodchat Shrike
zones of the harbour in Malta. A tunnel
was dug some 30m deep into the rock The presence of several breeding birds
and a chamber was excavated to be especially along the southern coast of Gozo
divided into 3 floors. The silo had a have made it an internationally Important
capacity of 1000tons. This mill has been Bird Area and it remains an extremely
restored by the Munxar Local Council and important site for several species such as
plans are underway to open it up for the the resident Scopoli’s Shearwater, Yelkouan
public on a regular basis. Shearwater, Yellow Legged Gull, Storm
Petrel and the National Bird of Malta the
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Blue Rock Thrush which prefer the vertical rafts before returning to their respective
cliffs, whilst the Spectacled Warbler, Corn nesting sites which they visit only by
Bunting and Short-toed Lark prefer the night – this is when you are most likely to
plateaus. notice them by their baby-like cries which
fill the atmosphere with a unique sound
experience! Indeed their specific name
diomedea is linked with the Greek hero
Diomedes and the birds are mythologically
seen as his metamorphosed companions
who continue to mourn his death every
night in their mysterious wailing calls.
The much rarer Yelkouan shearwater
also breeds along these cliffs in much
smaller numbers and in an earlier season.
Both species continue to be researched
and monitored regularly by BirdLife Malta.
ALEPPO PINE
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Pinus halepensis (Żnuber
in Maltese) is native to the
Mediterranean region and is very
much adapted to its climate of
long dry summers. It is a medium sized
conifer reaching heights of up to 20m. In
Malta’s National Bird the Blue Rock Thrush (female)
Malta this tree was present since ancient
times, possibly as one of the main tree
SCOPOLI’S SHEARWATER
species of ancient woodlands which may
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Calonectris diomedea (Ċiefa in have covered the islands millennia ago
Maltese), is a seabird from the but which have long disappeared except
albatross family with a wingspan for tiny patches represented by remnant
of up to 126cm. Its vernacular evergreen oak trees.
name is Scopoli’s shearwater and this The Aleppo Pine was eventually
name reflects its smooth shearing flight reintroduced and used in landscaping and
with the wingtips just almost touching the afforestation. The needle-shaped pine
surface of the sea. It has a yellowish bill with needles are highly adapted leaves which
a brown hooked tip and is brownish-grey greatly reduce water loss thus allowing the
above and white below. The shearwater tree to survive the long summer drought.
is a social bird breeding in colonies inside The summer heat often brings about an
cracks and crevices in the cliffs where it intense resinous smell accompanied by
lays a single egg in May – returning year the crackling sounds of cones bursting
after year to the same site. Over 1,000 pairs open to release the wind dispersed seeds.
nest along the cliffs from Ta’ Ċenċ up to Ix- Each female cone will require about 3
Xlendi, making it one of the most important years to mature. The male cones are much
sites. It spends most of its life out at sea but smaller, non woody and are seen only for a
throughout summer at sunset hundreds of short period of the year releasing clouds of
them can be observed gathering in large pollen when brushed.
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Info Pages
WEBSITES:
www.gozo.gov.mt
www.visitgozo.com
www.ecogozo.com
www.gozochannel.com
OPENING HOURS:
Mondays to Saturdays: 09:00 to 17:30 (Last admission 17:15)
Sundays and public holidays*: 09:00 to 13:00 (Last admission 12:45)
Note: *except on Christmas Day, New Year, Good Friday & Easter Sunday
BUS TIMETABLES:
www.transport.gov.mt
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval
system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of the copyright holder.
Direct enquiries may be forwarded to the Ministry for Gozo.
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Photography by:
TED ATTARD ETIENNE MICALLEF
DANIEL CILIA GEORGE SCERRI
RENO RAPA ARON TANTI
ANALISE FALZON MUNXAR LOCAL COUNCIL MINISTRY FOR GOZO
OTHER
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IN THE SERIES
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