John Piccirillo (2007) "Robotics Minifaq For Beginners". This Post, As A Collection of
John Piccirillo (2007) "Robotics Minifaq For Beginners". This Post, As A Collection of
John Piccirillo (2007) "Robotics Minifaq For Beginners". This Post, As A Collection of
Copyright Notice
This miniFAQ was compiled and written by John Piccirillo. This FAQ may be referenced as:
John Piccirillo (2007) “Robotics miniFAQ for Beginners”. This post, as a collection of
information, is Copyright (c) 2007 by John Piccirillo. Verbatim copying and distribution of this
entire document is permitted in any medium, provided this notice is preserved and as long as the
miniFAQ is posted in its entirety and includes this copyright paragraph. This FAQ may not be
distributed for financial gain or included in commercial collections or compilations without
express written permission from the author. Please send changes, additions, suggestions,
questions, and broken link notices to:
Contents
• Intro – What’s New, Why A miniFAQ, Scope
• Where Can I Find Information on Robots and Robot Clubs?
• What Introductory Books and Magazines Are Available?
• Where Can I Find Parts For My Robot ?
• What Sensors Are Available For Mobile Robots?
• What’s An Easy To Use Computer For A Robot Brain ?
• Are There Mobile Robot Kits Available ?
What’s New ?
This updated miniFAQ:
• Updates some of the product descriptions and adds a few links. All links checked as of
the distribution date.
Why A miniFAQ ?
Requests for information on robotics from beginners appears from time-to-time on
various newsgroups and list servers. The response to these requests is highly variable depending
on when and how the request is stated. Sometimes no reply is given at all. The original
Robotics FAQ is an out-of-date (by several years), no longer maintained, lengthy document that
may be imposing to a beginner and, running at over 400 pages, is burdensome to read on-line or
to download and print. Hence the perceived need on my part for a miniFAQ that covers some of
the basics while being admittedly limited in scope, making no pretension towards completeness
or political correctness. This document is oriented for beginners and also contains material of
interest to more advanced users.
Scope
This miniFAQ is intended as a source to find the answers to questions most often posed
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by beginners – where do I start?, what do I need to know?, where can I find information and
supplies?, and where do I go for help? The information given here is from my personal
perspective and comprise a list of sources that I have found useful. Enough links are provided so
that those interested can find what they are looking for (in the way of robotics). I have
endeavored to make the miniFAQ concise and have not included references to material on pick-
and-place or remote-controlled machinery.
NEWS GROUPS
There are only two robot newsgroups that I’m aware of. There are many related
newsgroups in the “sci” and “rec” categories.
1. comp.robotics.misc
2. comp.robotics.research
3. sci.electronics.design
4. sci.electronics.misc
LIST SERVERS
There are a great many of these. To avoid being inundated with individual emails, you
can often subscribe to a digest version which comes once a day. Three lists I recommend for
help with microcontrollers (see Section on microcontrollers below) are:
1. Basic Stamp list. Send a message to: [email protected]., with the word help in
the body of the message. Instructions will be emailed back to you; save them for future
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reference.
3. PIC list. Send a message to: [email protected], with the word help in the body
of the message. Save the returned instructions for future reference.
ROBOT BOOKS
A selection of books geared toward mobile robots is presented below. For further
information and ordering go to www.robotbooks.com, or www.bn.com. or www.amazon.com.
1. “The Robot Builder's Bonanza,” 3rd edition, by Gordon McComb and Myke Predko, 2006.
ISBN: 0071468935. Covers many areas at a beginning level: tools needed, sensors, motors,
batteries, materials, etc. This is a vastly enlarged and improved edition of the 1987 classic, about
double the length, and has corrected the errors of the first edition. This is a very good book by
the master of amateur robotics with a wealth of idea and techniques for robot construction.
2. “Mobile Robots: Inspiration To Implementation,” 2nd edition, by Jones, Flynn, and Seiger,
1998. ISBN 1-56881-097-0. A very good overview of mobile robots and subsystems. Goes into
satisfying detail on many robot subsystems, including behavior-based control architecture. The
book gives two detailed examples of mobile robots. My only complaint with this book is that it
gives many examples of code and microcontroller hardware specifics for the 68HC11
microcontroller, applicable to a kit sold by the same publisher (which appears to no longer be
available).
3. “Building Robot Drive Trains”, by Dennis Clark and Michael Owings, 2003. ISBN 0-07-
140850-9. As the title implies, the book concentrates on motors, motor mounting, electronic
motor control, wheels, tracks, and multipods. Motors include DC gearhead motors, R/C servos,
and stepper motors (advanced stepper techniques are not covered). Many details on mounting,
coupling, and modifying parts are covered well. This is a good, entry level book on the subject
of drive trains.
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bases, frames, drive geometries, batteries, and power systems. Lots of useful tables and practical
advice. This is a comprehensive book which I strongly recommend for beginners and those
without construction experience,
7. “Practical Electronics for Inventors”, by Paul Scherz, 2000. ISBN 0-07-058078-2. This is a
very good, introductory book on electronics. It covers the basics at a practical level with some
excellent analogies. The author uses mathematical expressions occasionally, including
derivatives and integrals, but calculus is definitely not required for understanding the text. The
coverage is very good and I would recommend this over The Art of Electronics for its simplicity
and straightforward applications. As a first edition, there are a number of errors in the some of
the mathematical expressions.
8. “Practical Robotics: Principles and Applications,” by Bill Davies, 1997. ISBN 0-968183-0-X.
Written as a text for a course in engineering design, this is a very useful compendium on
homebrew mechanical and electronic construction techniques and lots of practical tips.
9. “Sensors for Mobile Robots: Theory and Application,” by H. R. Everett, 1995. ISBN 1-
56881-048-2. An excellent book that goes into detail on a great many sensors, from simple to
very complex. An excellent reference book. Some parts are highly technical.
10. “Artificial Intelligence and Mobile Robots: Case Studies of Successful Robot Systems,” by
Kortenkamp, Bonasso, and Murphy, 1998. ISBN 0-262-61137-6. Case studies of working
robots in the areas of mapping and navigation, vision, and mobile robot architectures. Some
chapters are easy to read, but mostly this is at an intermediate-reading level.
12. “Robo Sapiens: Evolution of a New Species”, by Menzel and D’Aluiso, 2000. ISBN 0-262-
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13382-2. This book is a collection of a great many photographs and interviews with robot
researchers around the world. There is a lot of coverage on anthropomorphic robots but others
are covered as well. Some very brief specs are given for the various robots. A good non-
technical overview of current research in this area.
13. “Service Robots: Products, Scenarios, Visions”, by Schraft and Schmierer, 2000. ISBN 1-
56881-109-8. The book defines service robots as those between industrial and personal robots,
and surveys current products and research in seventeen service sectors from agriculture to
underwater. The coverage seems weighed toward European efforts but covers research from
around the world. I would have liked a clearer distinction between products, working models,
prototypes, and just ideas.
14. “The CMOS Handbook,” by Don Lancaster, revised by Howard Berlin, 1987. ISBN 0 672-
22459-3. A classic. Although somewhat dated, an excellent introduction on CMOS chips, logic,
timers, counters, shift registers, etc. with very worthwhile tutorial sections on basic digital
circuits. I highly recommend this book for beginners to digital electronics. However, you may
want to substitute the 74HCXX for the older, but still highly serviceable, CD4000 family of
chips.
15. “Easy PIC’n” (ISBN 0-9654162-0-8), “PIC’n up the Pace” (ISBN 0-9654162-1-6), and
“PIC’n Techniques” (ISBN 0-9654162-3-2) by David Benson. Introductory and intermediate
level books on programming the PIC microcontrollers. Also, “Serial PIC’n” (ISBN 0-9654162-
2-4) by Roger Stevens, a comprehensive text for implementing serial communications between a
Microchip PIC microcontroller and an external device. I highly recommend these books. Square
One Electronics, www.sq-1.com, (707) 279-8881. These are the simplest books on PIC
programming referenced here. New titles are added from time to time.
16. “Programming and Customizing the Basic Stamp Microcontroller,” by Scott Edwards, 1998.
ISBN 0-07-913683-2. Assumes no special prior knowledge, well illustrated and full of example
code.
17. “BasicX and Robotics: The Art of Making Machines Think”, by Chris Odom,
http://www.basicxandrobotics.com/. A primer on programming the BasicX microcontroller.
ROBOT MAGAZINES
1. Robot, www.botmag.com, a quarterly robot magazine. Maplegate Media Group, 650
Danbury Road, Ridgefield, CT 06877. Phone: (203) 431-7787.
2. Servo. A monthly magazine devoted purely to amateur robotics. Supporting web page at
www.servomagazine.com. Nuts & Volts Magazine, 430 Princeland Court, Corona, CA 91719
USA . Phone: (909) 371-8497.
3. Nuts & Volts. A monthly publication of electronics, including amateur radio, cellular
communications, computers, lasers, and more along with build-it-yourself electronics project.
Supporting web page at www.nutsvolts.com. Nuts & Volts Magazine, 430 Princeland Court,
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Corona, CA 91719 USA . Phone: (909) 371-8497.
There are many electronic magazines that indirectly support robotics such as Circuit Cellar
(www.circellar.com). I suggest browsing these at newsstands to find those that are compatible
with your skill level and interests.
Small businesses specializing in robot building parts: microprocessors, sensors, electronics parts,
kits, building materials, etc. These sites are well worth visiting (listed in alphabetical order).
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and other supplies.
8. Robotics Connection, www.roboticsconnection.com/index . Lots of wheel encoders,
specialized turrets and unique robot platforms, and the cheapest Sharp IR sensors.
1. All Electronics, www.allelectronics.com. Excellent prices for electronic odds and ends. (800)
826-5432.
4. Digikey, www.digikey.com. Complete catalog of all the standard electronic parts. Also
carries Basic Stamp, lots of Microchip parts, and a modest variety of semiconductors. Speedy
service, moderate prices. (800) 344-4539.
6. Herbach and Rademan, www.herbach.com. Surplus parts. Good source for small motors and
a variety of mechanical parts. (800) 848-8001.
7. Images SI, www.imagesco.com. Has a nice servo operated, two axis gripper, servo motors
and brackets, sensors, and some other robot parts.
10. McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com, the super mechanical parts supplier, from nuts and
bolts to forklifts. Very fast delivery. Ask for the printed catalog; because of the large size, it’s
much easier to browse than the on-line version.
12. Pololu, www.pololu.com. Carries many robot parts, sensors, controllers, kits, actuators, -
(877) 776-5658.
13. Radio Shack, www.radioshack.com/ Large selection of electronic parts, tools, and kits, and
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other goodies. RS has started to reduce the inventory of components in their retail stores and no
longer have a paper catalog. The on-line catalog has many more items than are carried in the
stores. (800) 442-7221.
15. Servo City, www.servocity.com. Carries most everything for R/C servos, including repair
kits, servo horns/arms/linkages, servo mountings including right angle and x-y axis, transmitters,
speed controllers. Also carries some shaft couplers and servo gears, chains, and sprockets
16. Small Parts, www.smallparts.com Rod, bar, sheet, tube, screw, fasteners, and all manner of
small mechanical parts in a variety of metal and plastic materials. Informative catalog. Premium
prices, comparison shop with other sources. (800) 220-4242.
17. Tower Hobbies, www.towerhobbies.com . General R/C hobby plane, boat, car supplier; also
carries small servo motors and a variety of wheels. (800) 637-4989.
Special Parts
Grippers – most suppliers don’t carry grippers and the several that are available vary
considerably in style and size. Professional grade grippers are machined and expensive.
Those referenced here are relatively inexpensive, however, the movements are generally
imprecise and only approximately repeatable. In all cases check your order for details;
some come with servo(s), some don’t. In addition, some grippers also are available with
associated robotic arms or wrist movements (and additional servos). There are two
griper styles: either a scissor action, in which the gripper jaws pivot from a common
point, or the more complicated parallel mechanism, in which the jaws remain parallel
while opening and closing. Note that although the gripper size openings vary quite a bit,
they can be modified by cutting and bolting on jaw extensions. This works fairly well if
the servo has enough torque to supply sufficient force for your needs. Many grippers
allow different servos to be fitted, in which case you may want to buy the bare gripper, if
available in that configuration. In alphabetical order by supplier:
Budget Robotics, www.budgetrobotics.com, offers two scissor style grippers: a Gripper Kit
(KIT301) and the Big Gripper (KIT305).
1. Lynxmotion, www.lynxmotion.com, offers many different arm assemblies but only one
gripper, the parallel jaw Lynx A Gripper Only kit (LAG-KT).
2. Pololu, www.pololu.com, carries a scissor type, the Joinmax Digital gripper kit (0093).
Wheel Hubs – mounting wheels to motors presents special challenges, the most obvious of
which is that the motor shaft is probably not the same size as the wheel axle hole. If the hole is
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smaller it can frequently be drilled out but mounting is problematical. The wheel may be
modified so that a set screw clamps it to the motor shaft, although this may be difficult to
implement on some wheels.. Better is a hub that is made to fit on a shaft and bolts to the wheel.
The hub mounts to the shaft with one or two set screws. Even if the shaft has a flat portion, the
screw will eventually back out and the wheel will slip on the shaft. To prevent this use a drop of
removable Loctite. Make sure it is the removable kind or the screw will never come out (Loctite
Blue works well). If you absolutely, positively want to ensure no slippage, you can, with
difficulty, drill a hole through the shaft so that the set screw enters the shaft and can be bolted on
the other side. This may require a special numbered drill bit. If the shaft is hardened steel, a
special bit available through machinery supply outlets will be required.
A nice selection of hubs, some of which are also re-sold through Jameco.
1. Proprioceptive sensors measure some internal condition of the robot, for instance battery
voltage or temperature. A variety of thermistors, precision resistors, or special chips are
available.
2. Dead Reckoning sensors attempt to measure the position, speed, orientation, or distance
traveled so that the robot can navigate in the blind, guessing its present position from its
last know position. The most common dead reckoning sensor is a motor or wheel
encoder. An encoder built into the motor is more accurate and convenient. Wheel
encoders are usually ad hoc devices that involve a perforated disk or reflective strips
attached to the wheel. These are sensed by a light sensitive detector. A Hall effect
sensor may be used to sense magnets attached to the wheel.
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3. Proximity sensors measure the closeness of a robot to something without actually
measuring the range or distance. These sensors are most often used as a virtual bumper
to avoid collisions. A illumination source and detector are frequently used together. This
may be a simple incandescent bulb or LED or a modulated IR LED to reduce ambient
light effects, and a phototransistor.
Ranging sensors measure distance, usually by triangulation or time of flight. These
sensors are most often used for navigation and obstacle avoidance.
• Sonars. Sonar (SOund Navigation And Ranging) sensors measure distance by timing the
time it takes a sound wave to make a round trip between the sensor (which both emits and
detects the sound) and some reflecting surface.
The best sonars are the one’s made by Devantech (www.robot-electronics.com). Since
they are made in England it’s easier to order from US suppliers. Acroname
(www.acroname.com) has the US rights. You can find technical information on the
Devantech site. The SRF04 is easier to use and less expensive than the SRF08, which
has more capability. The SRF04 range is from 3” to 10 ft; the SRF08 from 1.5” to 17
feet and detects multiple reflections.
Sonars from Polaroid (now made by SensComp) used to be the standard. They are
bulkier, require more power, and are more expensive, but have a longer range, about 35 ft
under ideal conditions, which may not be an advantage for most robots. However, they
are more problematic and difficult to interpret with ranges beyond 15 to 20 feet.
• Infrared Rangers. A variety of these are made by Sharp and find distance by
triangulation. Some of these sensors have a digital output, some analog, some operate
continuously, some have fixed ranges. Different versions have ranges of 1.5 to 12 inches,
4 to 30”, or 8 to 60”. An important characteristic is the time between measurements,
which is shortest for the continuous, analog devices. This update or sampling rate
determines how fast the robot can move and still be aware of its surroundings.
4. Vision sensors are available as CCD and CMOS cameras. You can use any video camera
and a PC with commercial or home brew image processing software but the smart way to
go is with CMU Cam, a low cost, very powerful, compact unit developed by the robotics
group at Carnegie Mellon University (http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~cmucam/). Photos and
a users manual can be downloaded from the CMU site. Units can be purchased from
Acroname (www.acroname.com) or Seattle Robotics
(www.seattlerobotics.com/cmucam.htm), but check out the CMU site first.
• Sound or Acoustic Energy: a small, ceramic microphone will work. You’ll need
some additional circuitry and a way to filter out background noises, including the
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robot motor noise. Microphones with a build in preamp are available.
• Electromagnetic Radiation
o Gamma and X-Ray: not commonly used by amateurs, since this is a
hazardous environment. Velleman makes an inexpensive kit to measure
gamma rays and high energy beta rays (electrons).
o Ultraviolet: Hamamatsu makes a professional UV detector (used for fire
detection) that works very well in the narrow UV range of 185 to 260 nm, the
solar blind region. Available from Acroname and Hamamatsu directly.
o Infrared: For the near-infrared there are phototransistors; for the mid-infrared
(8 – 14 microns) there are pyroelectric devices. A popular one is made by
Eltec and is available from Acroname, HVW Tech, Jameco, and some of the
surplus catalogs. You may want a kit that also includes a Fresnel lens to
collect and focus the light on the detector. The pyroelectric sensor can be
used to detect IR radiation from body heat or to detect the motion of an
infrared emitting object (as in home security motion detectors).
o RF: these are not commonly used by amateurs. RF covers a very large
frequency range. If a specific frequency is needed, a relatively simple
detector circuit can be made. Electronic bug detectors work from about 50
MHz to 3 GHz, but are on the expensive side. There are also field strength
meters made for amateur radio use for the 100 kHz to 500 MHz range that are
inexpensive.
• Magnetic Fields: a pick-up coil will detect a changing magnetic field but will need
some circuitry to amplify and filter the output. An electronic compass will also
indicate magnetic fields, although these are usually made for detecting the Earth’s
relatively weak field and may saturate in strong fields. For strong, local field changes
a Hall effect sensor can be used. These are mostly used to detect rotating
ferromagnetic parts, or as switches triggered by magnets. Small reed switches are
also used for magnetic switches. A compass may also be used for navigation. These
come with (expensive) and without (inexpensive) correction for tilt. Caution: a basic
physical law states that a sensor cannot differentiate between gravitational and inertial
acceleration. That is a sensor cannot, in one measurement, distinguish between tilt
and acceleration of a moving or turning robot. Two excellent compasses are the
V2Xe from PNI (http://www.pnicorp.com) and the CMPS03 from Devantech
(www.robot-electronics.com).
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beginners. The simplest would be one of the Basic Stamp II versions - the other extreme would
be an off-board Unix workstation running LISP. There is a lot of philosophical approach that
enters here, as well as practicality, and, unfortunately, much computer machismo, as in my-
computer-can-beat-up-your-computer. Only microcontrollers are discussed here. Since the
miniFAQ is meant for beginners, here is my personal view, based upon ease of use:
1. Basic Stamp. This is the simplest microcontroller to start with. The Basic Stamp is
manufactured by Parallax Inc. If you use a Basic Stamp, I suggest the BS2SX-IC. The price is
from $ 49 to $ 99, depending on version, and there are good introductory books, lots of
application notes and projects, and an active list server. It programs from a PC, and uses a form
of the BASIC computer language (called PBasic). The manual and programming software are
free from the manufacturer. The downside is that the processor is slow, memory space
somewhat limited, depending on the Stamp version, only integer arithmetic, and there are no
interrupts or timers available. There are about six versions of the Basic Stamp II, most have 16
I/O pins, and a version that runs Java. Check the Parallax site for a comparison of the different
versions. One can’t beat the price or the simplicity for a beginning system. Order from Parallax
www.parallax.com or many of the electronics catalogs or suppliers listed above.
3. PIC microcontroller. There are several different varieties available. Beginners often favor the
16F84, but many, many varieties are available. The programming software and manuals are free
from the manufacturer, Microchip. Look for the MPLAB package at www.microchip.com. The
individual chips cost about $10. On the downside you need to purchase a programmer (from $60
to $199), and you’ll need to put together a small board to carry the micro, its oscillator, and
connection pins (printed circuit boards are available from MicroEngineering Labs,
www.melabs.com ) The advantages to using a PIC are: you have a lot more control over
program structure and timing, access to interrupts, and execution speed is much faster. Order
from Digikey for the largest variety. Ordinarily PICs are programmed in assembly language (see
the books section above), but compilers are available for PBasic and “lite” versions of C.
4. Atmel AVR. This is a popular competitor to the PIC line of microcontrollers, with the usual
enthusiasts (I’m told this is a better term than “nuts”), lined up on both sides. You can get
started with a minimum set-up, the TinyAVR, from New Micros (www.newmicros.com), or
go with the higher end MAVRIC IIB from Gamatronix (www.gamatronix.com). A search
under the Vendor tab at www.avrfreaks.com, which can be ordered by distributors, will
reveal other suppliers of the AVR single board computers. One reason this micro is popular
is the availability of a free, executable, open source software development tool hosted on
Windows platforms. It is available at: http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/, and includes
the GNU GCC compiler for C and C++.
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5. PICStic. A series of Stamp-like microcontrollers, but with more capability and faster
execution time. The PICStic also allows the use of assembly language programming and access
to the PICs timers and interrupts.. Prices vary $29 to $139, plus development system prices vary
from is $ 49 to $ 249. Order from Micromint www.micromint.com.
6. Handyboard. This is a relatively painless way to using the Motorola 68hc11 chip. The
Handyboard contains the microcontroller, an LCD for debugging, 1 Amp motor drivers, a
rechargeable battery pack, and 32K of battery backed RAM. Additionally, the package comes
with good documentation and a free ware version of Interactive C, a multi-tasking version of C
for the Handyboard. Cost of the basic packages is $299 from Gleason Research,
www.gleasonresearch.com. Add on are available for additional costs. For technical details visit
the handyboard site at http://handyboard.com/.
1. Kits from $ 149 to $ 695. Robot powered by a Basic Stamp microcontroller. Available from
Parallax Inc. (www.parallax.com).
3. LEGO Mindstorms Robotic Invention System, available at toy stores. LEGO claims that, "A
first-time user with basic PC skills can design, program, and build a simple robot within one
hour." This product is suitable for interested children as young as ten to twelve with parental
guidance. There are many books and user groups on the LEGO system.
4. OWI Robot Kits. A variety of small, inexpensive, single function robots Available from
Robot Store, www.robotstore.com.
5. Seattle Robotics Society Workshop Robot. The Seattle Robotic Society offers an
upgradeable “Workshop Robot”. The Level 1 robot is available for $ 105. See details at:
www.seattlerobotics.org/WorkshopRobot/kits.php.
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