How To: Remove WD Hard Drive From Mybook Enclosure: Caveats
How To: Remove WD Hard Drive From Mybook Enclosure: Caveats
How To: Remove WD Hard Drive From Mybook Enclosure: Caveats
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Posted on October 25, 2015 by lui_gough Publications and Appearances
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Well, seeing as I purchased four of the 6Tb MyBook drives, you didn’t think I would just Legacy Site
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drive with a 2-year warranty. In the external enclosure configuration, they have better Audio
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once I’ve extracted the drives inside, I would have some enclosures with bridge chips that
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Of course, it goes without saying, that if you take out a hard drive from its enclosure, you Radio
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The WD MyBook enclosure for the 6Tb units I have is made with a screwless design. It
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doesn’t have any obvious clips which can be depressed through the vent-holes as with 2200mAh Promotional Power
previous WD models. Instead, this drive is basically a game of prying it open, and it’s Bank
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easier than others I have tried previously.
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By wedging an extremely stiff plastic spudger, or a flat-head screwdriver in my case, into 1520DP Network Camera
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the gap in the casing near the curves, I managed to exert enough force on one corner to U1173A Compatibility with
start sliding the case out of its rail. Start from one corner, until you hear a loud “click” as Windows 10
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out” if you’re not careful. As expected, the green drive is visible above, sitting in its frame.
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Similar to a Toshiba drive I took apart earlier, the bridge board itself is very small, and photography powerbank
occupies a corner of the drive. power bank project radio
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To take the assembly apart, you should ease the drive out of the frame by pushing it up, review-challenge rf rtl2832 salvage
and then pulling it horizontally away from the rear. Then, you can pull out the light-pipe site update storage tablet
from the underside mounting hole, and undo the bridge-board securing screw with a teardown tested
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Philips screwdriver. The board disconnects by sliding upwards.
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The light pipe structure seems quite interesting, as there appears to be a push-through-fit WordPress.org
The other side has the SATA connector with a sheet of insulating plastic to stop any
potential shorting of the PCB against the rear of the drive. This board is dated Week 20 of
2015.
The grommets themselves slide off the studs which are screwed into the four corner
mounting holes of the drive. The screws are done up with a decent amount of torque, so a
quality Torx T10 screwdriver is recommended to undo them.
After this, you will have your desired drive, ready for internal usage inside a computer or
storage unit, although due to the sector size difference, re-partitioning and reformatting will
be necessary.
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matson says:
November 26, 2015 at 3:48 am
Will you please share two numbers about this device? I would like to add it to
usb.ids.
You blacked-out model number from your photo. I expect you have a WDBFJK-
type. Will you please confirm, or otherwise, tell me what are first bunch of letters of
model number?
Optional extra: what is ASM1051W ID? I did not see that one before. I expect, if
the ROM is removed, or its legs cut, then bridge chip will use its own (mask rom)
id.
https://usb-ids.gowdy.us/read/UD/1058
https://usb-ids.gowdy.us/read/UD/174c
Reply
lui_gough says:
November 26, 2015 at 9:11 am
P/N: WDBFJK0060HBK-04
Default WD My Book 1230 VID 0158 PID 1230 REV 1065
I cut the Vcc lead (pin 8) from the EEPROM, and the device detects as
USB Mass Storage Device VID 04D9 PID 2013 REV 0103 and disables
the goofy 4k sector translation mode as well, so regularly written 512e
drives >2Tb actually read correctly.
– Gough
Reply
SourDo says:
February 13, 2016 at 7:18 pm
Would you kindly identify in your photo which “pin 8” lead it was
that you cut that “disables the goofy 4k sector translation mode”?
Thank you. I’m an electronics newbie.
Reply
lui_gough says:
February 14, 2016 at 7:05 am
– Gough
Reply
SourDo says:
February 16, 2016 at 4:59 pm
lui_gough says:
February 16, 2016 at 6:16 pm
– Gough
liev says:
March 13, 2016 at 4:54 am
Awesome solution. You really help us. You are the best.
Reply
Sebastian says:
October 3, 2016 at 6:33 pm
Thank you very much for the this useful info about the MyBook
series. I have a few MyBooks in use where I have desoldered the
EEPROM. There is one major problem with this “solution”: no
powermanagement anymore. The drive spins permanently, no
matter if it is connected to a computer or not or if the computer is
shut down. I dumped the contents of the EEPROM but there is
nothing useful in the resulting file. Commen reverse engineering
with binwalk etc. also no helpful. There are many tools and
firmwares out there for the AMS1051 but NONE of them works
with the 1051W. I wonder what is the difference.Any info about the
firmwares and their structure is welcome!
Reply
lui_gough says:
October 3, 2016 at 6:49 pm
– Gough
Reply
Sebastian says:
October 4, 2016 at 10:10 am
Schnuffsche says:
October 4, 2016 at 4:50 pm
Sebastian, thanks a lot for all this work. For me, the power
management is important, thus your observations confirm
that disassembled WD My Books are just to be recycled.
Unless of course a future firmware update would fix it.
Reply
matson says:
November 26, 2015 at 10:29 am
That is useful. Thank you for going the extra distance and physically damaging
your possession for a stranger’s request!
Considering that xHCI is much more capable, complicated, silicon than EHCI, and
considering that wrinkles are being ironed-out of host controller drivers still today; I
suspect ASMedia chip might have become 0000:0000, and identity 04D9:2013 is
taken from a keyboard.
https://usb-ids.gowdy.us/read/UD/04D9/2013
If you are willing to give me another chunk of your time, then will you please again
check the USB ID of that bridgeboard with cut memory? This time, use some other
system software or hardware.
Example different software setup: a Mac, Linux liveCD, Android slab, whatever
else will tell you USB PID.
Different hardware cold mean same PC and same Windows, but a different host
controller, and no other 04D9:2013 present (assuming IF you have such a
keyboard).
Reply
lui_gough says:
November 26, 2015 at 11:09 am
I swore I had saw that VID/PID and yes, that does belong to my keyboard.
Power cycling it again on the same hardware gives me VID 174C PID
51D6 REV 0001 which is ASMedia as expected. Must be a Windows goof
along the way due to an older NEC Renesas chipset driver possibly being
silly.
– Gough
Reply
matson says:
November 26, 2015 at 12:40 pm
One more sanity check: is that 51d6 51D6, letter dee as in disc?
Or did you maybe mis-read your screen, is it actually 5106? I feel
a bit of doubt regarding five-one-dee-six, considering ASM1051 is
five-one-zero-six, so ASM1051W might use same ID.
Reply
lui_gough says:
November 26, 2015 at 12:51 pm
matson says:
November 26, 2015 at 1:25 pm
A new id. Thank you for tolerating me. You are the
best!
Jens says:
April 3, 2016 at 9:02 pm
Hi, which chip is the eeprom chip where I have to cut pin 8? Winbond, APM4532
or RT8284?
Reply
lui_gough says:
April 3, 2016 at 9:19 pm
– Gough
Reply
Hello,
I’ve got a 8TB My Book, from which I removed the original drive.
Unfortunately, I seem to be unable to use the bridge-board with
other hard drives such as a 4TB WD Green. for example, WD
Drive reports the ‘other’ drive as “My Book 0 bytes”, I get a WD
SES code 52 error and as such I am unable to format/initialize the
drive when connected to the bridge-board.
Jens says:
April 4, 2016 at 12:03 am
highflyingtv says:
April 7, 2016 at 12:14 am
lui_gough says:
April 7, 2016 at 12:57 am
It isn’t. Only Passport drives are encrypted. You will find the data is
inaccessible due to 4k native sector addressing due to bridge chip
translation as documented in 2013:
http://goughlui.com/2013/10/02/experiment-usb-to-sata-bridge-chips-and-
2tb-drives/
– Gough
Reply
Tom says:
May 21, 2016 at 1:53 am
I’m having trouble opening the enclosure. (Of course, I could just break the thing
open with no regard for the plastic exterior, but I’m not *that* frustrated yet — I’m
still trying to keep cosmetic damage to a minimum so I can potentially reuse the
enclosure.)
Inserting a standard plastic spudger (intended for cell phone repair) into the gap
does not exert enough force. But even with a flathead screwdriver it seems like I’m
only damaging the shell, but not forcing it to slide apart …
Reply
Tom says:
May 21, 2016 at 2:04 am
Update: Yay, I got it! I had loosened the corners, but it was still stuck,
seemingly in the middle of the backside (where the ports are). I ran the
spudger along the seams there for a while and eventually it just “popped”
open – I think the clip right next to the USB 3 port had still been holding
out.
SanicFast says:
June 23, 2016 at 2:32 am
lui_gough says:
June 23, 2016 at 8:27 am
The drive is a standard 3.5″ drive, not a 2.5″ drive, so it has the standard
thickness of ~20mm.
– Gough
Reply
Schnuffsche says:
September 6, 2016 at 10:35 pm
So, if I remove the hard drive can I easily use the USB bridge chip with other WD
hard drives, even if they have a different capacity than the original one? Say, I
want to the the WD My Book 4TB chip with a 2 TB WD20EARS.
lui_gough says:
September 7, 2016 at 12:09 am
In practice, I’ve tried and been successful in using newer bridges with both
AF and regular 512 byte drives. It seems the bridges will present a 4k
native sector size over USB for drives >2Tb, and 512byte sector size for
smaller drives. As a result, there can be “interchange” issues (i.e. >2Tb
drive formatted on the bridge and connected to a computer SATA port or a
bridge that doesn’t do 4k translation won’t read properly).
I can’t guarantee that it will work for all drives though – I’ve had an
occasional drive that refuses to play well with particular bridge boards
probably due to a timing issue (e.g. using an SSD from particular vendors,
one WD 160Gb Blue drive but other 160Gb Blue drives are okay).
– Gough
Reply
Schnuffsche says:
September 7, 2016 at 12:16 am
Dear Gough
– Schnuffsche
Reply
lui_gough says:
September 7, 2016 at 12:29 am
– Gough
Reply
Schnuffsche says:
September 27, 2016 at 5:59 pm
– Schnuffsche
lui_gough says:
September 27, 2016 at 6:36 pm
– Gough
matson says:
September 30, 2016 at 12:02 am
Justin says:
September 17, 2016 at 1:31 am
Hello,
Just wanted to say thank you for this guide! I cut the leg of the winbond chip and
the enclosure finally works with my old HDD.
Reply
Ricky says:
September 27, 2016 at 12:26 am
Hello,
Not sure if this is relevant but maybe you will be able to help me.
I currently have the older model of this HDD (WDBWLG0030HBKNE) and it has
stopped working. After some trouble shooting and internet searches i have found
the issue to be a faulty Bridge chip. however this model does not seem to be
available in stores anymore, do you think it would be possible to use a bridge chip
from this newer unit? If not is there another way to bypass this card to extract the
data another way?
– Gough
Reply
thomas says:
April 5, 2017 at 7:27 am
There is a way to set up a decryption filter in linux. I did that for my 4TB
My Book so that I could use it inside my desktop computer. Contact me if
you want me to help.
Reply
Rick says:
November 10, 2016 at 10:33 am
Excuse my ignorance but if i was to buy a my book 6tb unshell it then fit it in my pc
or a different jbod enclosure, would i have any compatibility issues? i will obviously
no longer use that asmedia controller.
Reply
lui_gough says:
November 10, 2016 at 3:24 pm
I can’t give you any guarantees of course, but the drives used in the
enclosures are usually Green series (or now, renamed Blue series) drives.
These are not intended for JBOD/RAID or multi-drive usage anyway.
Whether they have tinkered with the firmware, I’m not sure. In my
experience, they will work in single drive internal port usages just fine,
multi-drive will probably cause issues at the first sign of data loss as the
drives would not have TLER (time-limited error recovery) features resulting
in it dropping out of and breaking RAID/JBOD sets. There are also
potential “freak” compatibility issues between an individual drive that
doesn’t recur with another drive of exactly the same model sometimes as
well (as I’ve occurred with some Seagate 4Tb drives).
Doing this also voids the warranty and voids any support from the
manufacturer – so remember, you do this at your own risk.
Data interchange (i.e. being able to read the stored data on the drive
when taken out of the case) will depend on whether the drive has an older
“XP Compatible” 4k “native” sector translation by the bridge chip or not.
Later drives are increasingly avoiding the use of this translation thus
making the drives “interchangeable” without a reformat. Otherwise,
repartitioning and reformatting will be necessary.
– Gough
Reply
Enrique Garcia says:
November 21, 2016 at 1:33 am
Mario T. says:
November 30, 2016 at 12:20 pm
Hi Gough,
Thaks for this useful articles. It made me realise that it’s probably better to get
reds for my NAS than pursue conversion of these greens into reds.
Btw, what do you think about this article and the whole conversion idea? The
method described on the link below cannot give them TLER, right?
https://forums.freenas.org/index.php?threads/hacking-wd-greens-and-reds-with-
wdidle3-exe.18171/
Reply
lui_gough says:
November 30, 2016 at 12:40 pm
Dear Mario,
WDIDLE is a utility that can set the drive head parking time – this doesn’t
affect the error recovery behaviour of the drive, however, such tweaks
may be necessary depending on the I/O pattern of your application
regardless of drive type as by default, after a certain amount of idle time,
the drive heads are unloaded onto the ramp. The default values for
different vendors/models of drives can be different.
In former early Greens, there was talk that TLER can be re-enabled using
a tool called WDTLER. Unfortunately, as far as I know, these tools no
longer work on current drives as the whole thing is now baked into
firmware.
– Gough
Reply
Mario T. says:
November 30, 2016 at 12:46 pm
JanSik says:
March 12, 2017 at 2:13 pm
I purchased few days ago the 8TByte WD MyBook willing to use its USB 3.0
interface also with other SATA disks. I followed the instructions of this website and
after having cut the pin 8 on the Winbond chip, the board ( https://goo.gl/YPfpfa )
continued to not recognize other disks. Than I looked at the scheme of the the
chip and found that it looks similar to this one (https://goo.gl/2vtAe3 ). Measured
the voltage on the just cut pin 8 of the chip and found that there are still 3.17 Volt.
Probably it came from pin 7 as it was still connected to Vcc. Than I cut also the pin
7 and everything started to work correctly and the board was usable with plenty of
other discs. I can not understand why WD does not wand that their board can be
reused with other WD disks? However I noticed that after cutting of the 2 pins the
chip becomes very hot with temperature rising to about 70 degrees Celsius.
Reply
L T says:
April 30, 2017 at 2:50 pm
I also got the 8TB version today from Best Buy and as JanSik mentions, cutting
pin 8 is not enough, pin 7 also must be cut so that the USB board is detected as
‘ASMT 2215 USB Device’
Reply
I bough some time ago 3 WD My Book with 4 Tb and I did not know what to do
with the boxes as was not working with older disks.
I follow some of your advice by cutting the PIN 8 of the Winbond chipset. Did not
work. Then cut the PIN 7 and it did the trick. I can now use the box for an old 500
Gb!