Luminosity Masks and Digital Blending Jimmy Mcintyre

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LUMINOSITY MASKS AND DIGITAL BLENDING JIMMY MCINTYRE

- THE KEY TO UNDERSTANDING THE LM


o If I select mountain in the distance AND the sky, and darken both, they will be darkened
equally. This will give an unnatural effect, because the mountain needs less darkening
than the sky! If we use a basic luminosity mask, such as the red channel, then the
darkening will be proportional to the tonality the sky will be lighter and therefore
masked less and therefore darkened more, and the mountains being of a darker shade
of grey will be darkened less because they are masker more (being darker) THIS IS THE
KEY ADVANTAGE OF LM SMOOTHNESS ANA NATURAL LOOK!!! AND ALL THIS IS DONE
ON PIXEL LEVEL AUTOMATICALLY!
o The basic mask can be used just by selection r,g, or b channel depending on which one
has more contrast.

o THE BIGGEST STRENGTH OF LUMINOSITY MASKS IS NATURAL LOOKING HDR I.E.


DIGITAL BLENDING.
- Workflows
o SUNRISE ON THE SEA
DARKEN THE HIGHLIGHTS this will bring back more color to the overblown area
INCREASE MIDTONE CONTRAST
select midtones, and if needed subtract highlights and shadows from it
to protect them better. You can confirm on the histogram it will show
no highlights and shadows, just midtones.
Now simply change the blending mode to soft light to increase the
contrast, and adjust opacity if too strong. This GIVES GREAT MOOD TO
THE IMAGE!
Darken the shadows if needed, and mask out the change from the areas
you do not want too dark.
Run DETAIL ENHANCER and then select a luminosity mask that will apply
this only to desired areas maybe not the sky and the smooth sea. Apply
this mask to the detail enhancer layer.
Suppose the sun area is too dark lacks brightness and you want to
select the lights luminosity mask that has the sun but that mask is just
grey rather than white meaning it will affect the area only partially.
Well, the good thing is all LMs are adjustable just copy the one that is
nearest to what you want, and then use levels to increase the contrast in
taht mask. Also, you can paint out the effect from areas where you dont
want it.
o MILKY WAY
You can select something like LIGHTS 3 = where the stars are selected and nothing
else, then invert and apply NOISE REMOVAL WHILE PROTECTING THE STARS.
o HDR DIGITAL BLENDING
The big question is which of the exposures do we run the LMs on? Mostly, it will
be the middle exposure, but it depends on what is to be achieved. But most of
the times, it will be the middle exposure and we will use highlights and shadows
to blend into it. YOU MIGHT NEED TO TRY ALL OF THEM BEFORE YOU FIND THE
DESIRED SELECTION. Why do we use the middle exposure? Because using others
will give too harsh transitions between the selected area and the rest. We need
smoother transitions. So do not just jump to the dark exposure, select the
highlights and blend them in that will be harsh.
ONE KEY CONCEPT IS THAT YOU CANNOT BLEND ONE VERY DARK AND ONE VERY
BRIGHT EXPOSURE. THIS WILL LOOK UNNATURAL, LIKE A NIGHT SKY OVER
DAYLIGHT CITY. YOU NEED A MIDDLE EXPOSURE TO BRIDGE THE GAP.
o BIGGEST PROBLEM OF LUMINOSITY BLENDING
Restoring highlights is straightforward. But restoring the shadows is problematic.
Why? Imagine a dark object. That object has black areas, and some areas of very
dark shadows, and some brighter shadows. If we just select the blacks and the
dark shadows and brighten them using luminosity masking we will bring those
to the level of the brighter shadows on that object, thus destroying the contrast
and texture of the object, with the result of greyish flatness.
So what do we do? We need to select as before, e.g. darks 2, but the new need
to subtract darker tones from the mask, so subtract darks 4,5,6. Now the darkest
tones will stay protected.
ANOTHER SOLUTION: customize the mask by alt clicking on it, and then use
dodging/burning on highlights and shadows selectively to mask out the darks.

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