Drafting Cotton Garments and Mackinaws 1918
Drafting Cotton Garments and Mackinaws 1918
Drafting Cotton Garments and Mackinaws 1918
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CCFYRIGHT DEPOSKR
DRAFTING
Cotton Garments and cMackinaws
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Harry $imons
Technical Editor of The Clofhing,
Desig,nei~ & (^Manufacturer^ and
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Copyright /
191<
(Published by"
Introduction
HE drafting of Cotton Garments and Mackinaws sa
Ifl Every style garment can be created from the points des-
/# 3
CI.A501987
OCT -1 1918
Page Two
Ind ex
Preliminary Instruction 4
Construction Lines for the Back 5
Drafting the Forepart 6-7
Drafting the Under Collar 8-9
Stock Sack Coat 10-11
Work Coat 12-13
Stout Work Coat 14-15
Barber's Coat - 16-17
No Collar Barber's Coat 18-19
Hunting Coat 20-21
Grocer's Gown 22-23
Military Blouse 24-25
Boys' Work Coat 26-27
Bar Vest 28-29
Three Buttoned Double Breasted
Shawl Collar Mackinaw 30-31
Drafting Shawl Collars 32
Making a Whole Back 33
Convertible Collar Mackinaw 34-35
Military Collar Mackinaw 36-37
Stout Mackinaw 38-39
Shawl Collar Mackinaw Raglan
Sleeve 40-41
Making Longs and Shorts from Reg-
ular Block 42-43
Mail Order Changes 44-45-46
Making a Box Back from a Regular
Sack Coat 46
Men's and Boys' Proportions 47
Books . 48
Patterns 48
School 48
Page Three
Preliminary Instruction
HE drafts illustrated in this
book are either size 36 or 38,
except in the case of stouts,
which are drafted size 40.
These are considered the
model sizes that are generally
used in the "ready-made"
houses. When a model is per-
fected and passed upon, as is the usual custom,
it is then graded up and down to the various
sizes required.
Page Four
G
_al_io. _-,- - c
--D
D\a 1
6i_L5
Page Five
Drafting the Forepart
(Conservative Sack)
Diagram III
Page Six
Diagram III
Page Seven
Drafting the Under Collar
Diagram IV
ALLbreasted,
sack coat
are drafted by
single or double
collars,
this method. The
leaf of the double breasted coats are made
one-quarter inch wider.
Extend the break A-B to C.
Draw line J-E parallel to A-B.
N to D is l x/4 inches.
D to J is Vi inch.
D to E is the width of back.
E to F is x/4 inch allowed extra for fullness.
Square up from F to K.
K to L is a/i inch.
C to K is 2%inches, the width of turnover.
This can be made in various widths.
B to I is % inch.
G H is XA
to inch.
Draw line K-H.
Shape the bottom part F-J-I-H and see that it
has the same run as the gorge D-B-G.
Draw lines B-C-L and L-M.
Shape the notch M-H, which completes the
under collar.
Paae Eight
Regular Sleeves
Diagram V
THIS sleeve can be used to all regular coat drafts.
for top sleeve and there should be 3-4 inch fullness for
undersleeve. Measurements: size 36 in. inseam 1 8 in.
DRAFT -1 H
,
Paae Nine
Stout Sack Coat
Diagram VI
HIS draft is for a normal Stout figure, 5 ft. 7 in. in height. Full explanation is given as
T to the proper distribution of fat at the waist.
rized.
Every detail should be carefully memo-
Page Ten
Diagram VI
Page Elevi
Work Coat
Diagram VIII
draft all allowances are made for
this
IN double needle machine work. This being
the basic draft for all garments of this kind
shown in this volume, every point should be
memorized. Breast size 36.
THE DRAFT (BACK)
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G.
A to B is IV2 inches.
B to C is % of 19.
B to D is % of 19. (This measurement is al-
ways V2 of two sizes larger than the breast size.)
B to E is 17% inches.
B to F is 25 inches (seat line).
B to G is 31 inches.
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G.
G to H is 1 inch.
Draw line B-H.
B to J is 1/6 of breast plus % inch.
K to L is % inch on all sizes.
Draw line A-L.
D to M is 1/3 of 18 plus 2% inches.
Square up from M to N.
P is half way between N and line C.
Draw line L-P, as illustrated, extending the
point of shoulder 2 inch bevond line M-N
y
M to R
is 1/12 of breast.
R to S is 3/4 inch.
Draw P-S, the back part of arm hole.
M to O
is inch.%
Square down from O to T.
T to U is V2 inch.
Draw line S-14-U, which completes the back.
For a whole back take off Vx inch on line A-H.
THE FOREPART.
D to V is 1/3 of breast plus 1% inches.
Square up from to W. V
W to X
is 1/6 of breast. ways from points D-B and C.
X to 2 is 1%
inches. Line S-K is y2 way between B and C.
10 to 11 is 2 inch. y J to F is % inch less than V2 of 18.
Draw line 2-X-P and 2-11. Square down from F to L and up from F to E.
2 to 11 is V4 inch less than L to P. A to H is 1/3 of the distance of A to E.
Shape the arm hole, 11-S. Draw line H-J.
Point 12 is y2 inch from line O-T. D to P is y2 inch less than D to F.
14 to 13 is 2y4 inches. Square down from P to S.
Shape the side seam, S-12-13, which is the Shape line F-J-P.
same length as S-14-U. K is V2 inch from line E-L.
D to Y is 19 inches, or y of two sizes larger C to M is 6% inches.
than the breast. C to N is 6% inches.
Y to Z is 2y2 inches. Draw line F-K-M and line P-O-N.
Z to 3 is iy2 inches. Hollow bottom 1 inch at point C.
Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 9. Shape the bottom N-M, which completes the
2 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. sleeve.
Square down from 6 to 7, which is 1/6 of THE COLLAR
breast. Draw line 1-2-3.
Come out IV2 inches from point 7 for stand. 1 to 2 is 3/4 inch.
Come in % inch at point 9 to get run of front. 2 to 3 is 8%
inches.
Shape neck and front as illustrated. Square down from points 1-2-3.
The buttons are placed 1*4 inches from front 3 to 6 is 1 inch.
edge. 6 to 5 is 4 inches.
THE SLEEVE Square out from points 6 and 5.
Draw line A-B-C. 4 to 8 is 1inch.
B to D is y4 of 19. Shape lines 2-6 and 8-5 as illustrated, which
D to E is 1/12 of 19. completes the collar.
B to C is 1 inch more than the inseam of For other sizes of collar, the collar is to be
sleeve,which is 19 inches in this case. made Vs inch longer of shorter, as the case
Square out from point A and square both may be.
Pane Twelve
Diagram VIII
Page Thirteen
Stout Work Coat
Diagram XI
Page Fourteen
Diagram XI
Paqe Fifteen
Barbers' Coat
Diagram X
THIS garment is made with a military stand- THE FOREPART
ing collar which buttons to the neck. The D to W is V2 of breast.
top patch should be made 5 x/2 inches wide W to X is 3% inches for button stand and
and 6V2 inches deep. The lower patch should be make-up.
made 6V2 inches wide and 8V2 inches deep. An Square up from X to Y and down from X to
13.
extra allowance should be made for seams. The D to U is 2/3 of 19, plus 1% inches.
button stand is 1V4 inches from the edge. To Square up from U to V.
use this pattern for a double-needle machine, an Z is half way between Y and V.
extra allowance of 54 inch should be made at Z to 3 is V4 inch.
Draw line 3-0.
the shoulder and side-seam of forepart. The 3 to 5 is 54 less than to 7. K
same sleeve can be drafted for this garment as 5 to 6 is %
inch.
is used and explained with the work coat dia- Shape the shoulder 6-3 and the armhole 6-Q.
gram. Breast size 38, waist 35 inches. 11 to 9 is 2 1/4 inches.
T to 8 is y2 inch.
Shape the side-seam Q-8-9-10.
THE DRAFT Q to 10 is the same length as Q to S.
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H. Y to 2 is 1/6 of breast.
A to B is 54 inch. 2 to 4 is 154 inches.
B to C is % of B to D. Shape the gorge 3-4-2.
B to D is y2 of 20. 12 to 13 is iy2
inches.
B to E is 17% inches. 13 to 14 is y2 inch.
B to G is 24 inches. Shape the front 2-X-14.
B to H is 31 inches or full length. Shape the bottom 14-10, which completes the
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H. forepart.
B to J is 1/6 of 19 plus y2 inch.
THE COLLAR
Square up from J to K.
J to K is 1 inch. Draw line 20-21.
Draw A-K. 20 to 21 is 8% inches.
E to F is % inch. Square down from 21 to 24.
H to I is % inch. 21 to 23 inch.
is 1
Draw the center seam B-F-I. 23 to 24 is 1% inches.
D to L is1/3 of 19. Draw line 20-26-23.
L to M is254 inches. 20 to 22 is y2 inch.
Square up from to N. M Square down from 22 to 25.
O is halfway between N and line C. 22 to 25 is 1%
inches.
O to 7 is 54 inch. Draw line 24-25.
Draw line K-7. Shape the top 23-20, hollowing out 54 inch at
F to T is 1/3 of 19 plus 1 inch. point 26.
Square down from T to R. Shape the bottom 24-25, filling out 54 inch at
R to S is V2 inch. point 27.
M to P is 1/12 of 19. Draw lines 20-25, which completes the col-
P to Q is V2 inch. lar. For other sizes the collar should be made
Draw lines 7-Q and Q-T-S, which finishes the Vs inch longer, making the finished product 4
1
Page Sixteen
Diagram X
Page Seventeen
No Collar Barber's Coat
Diagram XI
Page Eighteen
Diagram XI
Page Nineteen
Hunting Coat
Diagram XII
Page Tzventy
Diagram XII
Page Twenty-one
THE FOREPART
Grocers' Gown Square up from V to Y.
Y to 3 is 1/6 of breast plus l x/4 inches.
Diagram XIII Square up from 3 to Z.
3 to Z is V2 inch.
DRAFTED two sizes larger than the regular Draw line Z-P.
sack coat draft is the gown here illus- 7 to Z is Y4 inch less than L to Q.
trated and described. This draft is made Drop point 7 three-eighths inch and shape
with a swinging collar similar to the work shoulder 7Z and armhole 7R.
coat. With a few common sense changes this H to 12 is 1/6 of breast.
draft can be used for auto dusters, doctor's Draw line R-12.
gowns and the like. D to W is y2 of 20.
Size 38. W to X
is 4V4 inches.
Square up from X
to R and down from X to 8.
4 to 6 is Ys of breast.
THE DRAFT Square out from 6 to 13.
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 6 to 5 is 2 inches.
A to B IV2 inches.
is Shape the gorge Z-5.
B C is y4 of 21.
to Point 8 is IY2 inches from line G.
B D is y2 of 21.
to 8 to 9 is V2 inch.
B E is 17% inches.
to Shape the front 6-9 and the bottom 9-12,
B F is 25 inches.
to which completes the forepart.
B G is the full length or 46 inches.
to For double needle machine, allow Y& inch lap
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. at shoulder and side-seam of forepart. For a
G to H
is 1^4 inches. whole back, take off Y inch from center seam.
Draw line A-H.
B to J is 1/6 of 20 plus % inch. THE COLLAR
Square up from J to L.
K to L is % inch. 20 to 21 is 8V2 inches.
Draw line A-L. Square down from 21 to 23.
D to M is 1/3 of breast plus 2 x/4 inches. 21 to 22 is l 3/4
inches.
Square up from M to N. 22 to 23 is 4 inches.
P is half way between and N. Draw line 22-20.
P to Q is % inch. Square down from 20 to 24.
Draw line L-Q. 20 to 24 is 4 inches.
D to V is 2/3 of breast plus 1% inches. 24 to 25 is iy2 inches.
R is way between
half M and V. Draw lines 23-25 and 22-20, hollowing V2 inch
Square down from R to S. at point 26.
S to U is Ys of breast. Draw lines 20-25 and 22-23, which completes
Draw lines Q-R and R-U, which completes the collar.
the back. Use the same sleeves as the work coat.
Page Tzuenty-two
Diagram XIII
Page Twenty-three
y
Military Blouse
Diagram XIV
Page Twenty-four
XO 21
Diagram XIV
Page Twenty-five
Boys' Work Coat
(Age 12)
Diagram XV
MADE similar
draft except
to the
that
men's work coat is this
it is drafted by boys'
22 to 23 is 1% inches.
Square up from 23 to X.
proportions. The identical idea as the X to 25 is 1/6 of 14%.
men's coat is carried out in every detail. On 25 to A
is 1%
inches.
the last page of this book will be found a com- A
to 26 is %
inch,
plete list of boys' proportions with which any Draw line 26-27-16.
size can be drafted. With the system laid out 27 to 28 is %
inch.
as explained in this draft the reader should be Shape the shoulder 28-26.
able to draft any of the various style garments 19 to 36 is %
inch.
for boys. 20 to 37 is %
inch.
Measurements Breast, 29 inches
: ; waist, 27 Shape the side seam 36-37-38, making it the
inches; neck, 13 inches. same length as the back side seam.
50 to 24 is %
of the breast, or 14% inches.
THE DRAFT 24 to 29 is 2%
inches.
29 to 30 is 1%
inches.
Draw line 1-2-3-4-5-6. Square up from 30 to 31 and down from 30-29.
1 to 2 is 1 inch. 8 to 33 is 1/6 of 14%.
2 to 3 is %
of 15. 33 to 34 is 1/8 of 14%.
2 to 4 is %
of 15, which is one-half of one 33 to 32 is 1 inch.
size larger than the breast measure. 35 to 39 is 1%
inches.
2 to 5 is 14 inches. 39 to 40 is %
inch.
2 to 6 is 25% inches, the full length. Shape the gorge front and bottom, which com-
Square out from points 1-2-3-4-5-6. pletes the draft.
6 to 7 is %
inch.
Draw line 1-7. THE COLLAR
From 2 to 8 is 1/6 of 14%.
8 to 9 is % inch. Draw line 41-42.
Square up from 9-11. 41 to 42 is %
of the collar plus % inch, which
10 to 11 is %
inch. is 7 inches in this case.
Draw line 1-11. Square down from points 41-42.
4 to 12 is 1/3 of 14%. 42 to 43 is 1 inch.
12 to 13 is 1/12 of 14% plus inch. % Draw line 41-43.
Square up from 13 to 15 and down from 13 43 to 44 is 3 inches.
to 14. 44 to 45 is i/i inch.
16 is half way between 15 and line 3. 41 to 46 is 3% inches.
16 to 17 is %inch. Square out from 46 to 47, which is 1% inches.
Draw line 11-17. Draw line 41-47, then shape the lines 43-41
13 to 18 is 1/12 of 14%. and 45-47, which completes the collar.
18 to 19 is % inch. To figure the front waist measure you will
14 to 21 is %inch. find the following rule very practical, especially
Shape the side seam 19-21, hollowing out % on smaller sizes.
inch at point 20. From 51 to 52 is %
of 13%, the waist measure.
52 to 53 is 1% inches and square down from
53 to 59.
THE FOREPART The balance of the draft remains the same,
4 to 22 is 2/3 of 14%. as previously explained.
Page Twenty-six
Diagram XV
Page Twenty-seven
Bar Vest
Diagram XVI
Page Twenty-eight
Diagram XVI
Page Twenty-nine
rhree Button Double Breasted Shawl Collar Mackinaw
Diagram XVII
YOU
basis
will note that this coat is drafted on a
of two sizes larger than the sack
Square down from J to K.
K to 5 is 3
/4 inch.
coat. Every point should be carefully Shape the side-seam N-8-5.
studied and memorized as this draft is the Plait in back inch as illustrated by
*.:% 17-18.
foundation of the mackinaw drafts that follow.
Measurements: Breast 38 inches, length 33 THE FOREPART
inches.
C to R is 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches.
THE DRAFT Square up from R to V.
V to X
1/6 of 20 plus V2 inch.
is
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F. Drop shoulder V4 inch at point X;
A to B is *4 of 21 plus % inch. Draw line X-10.
B to C is %
of 21. 10 to X is'% less than P to 11.
A to D is 17% inches. Shape the shoulder 10-X and the armhole
A to E
25 inches.
is 10-9.
A to F
the full length or 33 inches.
is 8 to 7 is V2 inch.
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F. 13 to 12 is 2V2 inches.
F to G is IV-i inches. Shape the side-seam 9-7-12-6, making it %
Draw line A-G. more than the side-seam of back.
A to O is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. C to S is 20 irches.
Square up from O to P. S to T is 3% inches.
to P is IV2 inches. T to U is2% inches or V2 of button stand.
C to H is 2/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. Square up from U to W and down from U
Square up from H to L. to Z.
M is half way between L and line B. W to 14 is 1/6 of 20.
M to 11 is inch.% Draw 15-14.
Draw line P-ll. Shape the gorge X-14 jnd the front 14-4.
H to N
is 1 inch. Sweep from point X, using X-6 as a radius to
Square out inch from
1 N to point 9. establish point Z.
Draw line 11-N. Shape the bottom 4-6, which completes the
H to J is V2 inch. draft.
Page Thirty
Diagram XVII
Page Thirty-one
Drafting Shawl Collars
Diagram XVIII
THERE explain how shawl collars for macki-
naws are drafted. If the stand is made %
inch wider than that here illustrated, the
collar should be drafted without the addition
on Back and Forepart.
Add ZA inch of stand on back, as illustrated.
A to E is % inch.
B to D is 3A inch.
Draw line E-D.
Shape the shoulder D-C.
Add the % inch on forepart, as illustrated.
F to H is % inch.
Shape the gorge H-G-R.
COLLAR
Extend the break J-G to L.
S to L is the width of back plus V4 inch.
Square down from L to M.
L to M is Vs of breast.
Draw line M-N.
N is %
inch from G-H.
Square up from M to P.
M to is % inch, the width of stand.
Draw line O-G, the break.
to P is V-fa inches.
P to Q is V2 inch.
Draw line M-Q.
Shape the under-seam of collar M-C-K, as il-
lustrated.
Shape the outside seam of collar Q-R-K, which
completes the draft.
Page-Thirty-two
Making A Whole Back
Diagram XIX
Page Thirty-three
Breast 36 inches, Length 34 inches. the same length as the side seam at the back.
5 is 19 inches from line A-H.
THE DRAFT 5 to 6 is 2% inches.
6 to 7 is 1% inches, which gives us the center
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. line.
A to B is an inch and a half. Square up from 7 to 9 and down from 7 to 14.
B to C is Ya of 20 inches. 7 to 8 is 3 inches or %
the button stand.
B to D is % of 20. Square down from 8 to 15.
B to E is 17% inches. 17 is 3 4
inch below the waist line.
B to F is 24 inches. Square 16-17-18.
B to G is the full length or 34 inches. 9 to 10 is % of. 19.
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. Square out from 10 to 12.
E to H is % inch. X to 11 is 14 of 19.
Page Thirty-four
Diagram XX
Page Thirty-five
;
THIS draft
tual breast
is made
3 inches larger than ac-
measure.
It is drafted a size
11
Draw
is half
line V-ll.
way between P and S.
still larger for the better grade goods for ; V to 10 is Yk inch less than N to P.
cheaper make two sizes will do, similar to the Shape the shoulder 10-V and the armhole
shawl collar draft, as explained in a previous 10-13-R.
diagram. Measurements : Breast size, 38 inches Take out Y inch at point R.
length, 34 inches 4 to 5 Y inch.
is
6 is 2y2 inches from line H-K.
DRAFT Shape the side-seam R-4-6-7 and make it %
inch longer than R-O.
Draw line M-A-C-B-D-E-F. W is y2 of breast, or 20y2 inches from line
M to A
is inch. % M-G.
A to C is y4 of 21. W to X 2y2 inches.
is
A to B is y2 of 21. X to Y2 inches.
is
A to D
is 17% inches. Square up from Y to 1 and down from to 17. Y
A to E is 24 inches. 1 to 2 is 1/6 of 20y2 .
Square out from points M-A-C-B-D-E-F. Shape the gorge and front, V-3-9-15-16.
F to G is 1V4 inches. Sweep from point V-7 to 17.
Draw line A-G. Draw line 17-16.
A to L is 1/6 of 21 plus Y% inch. Shape the bottom, as illustrated, which com-
Square up from to M. I; pletes the forepart.
L to M
is 1% inches.
B to I is 1/3 of 20y2 plus 2 inches. THE COLLAR
Square up from I to J.
P is halfway between S and J. The collar for a size 38 should measure 15y2
Draw line N-P. inches. The under-collar should be drafted 1
I to Q is 1/12 of 21. inch larger, making it measure finished 16y2
Q to R is 3/4 inch, inches.
Draw line P-R. Draw line 1-2-3-4.
I to H is % inch. 1 to 2 is iy2 inches.
Square down from H to K. 2 to 3 is 8y2 inches.
K to O is iy inches. 3 to 4 is inch. %
Draw R-0.line Square down from points 1-2-3-4.
Shape the bottom, G-0. 3 to 6 is 1/12 of 20y2 .
For a whole back take off Yi inch on line M-G. 6 to 7 is iy2 inches.
7 to 8 is 3y inches.
THE FOREPART Square out from 8 to 10.
2 to 5 is lYi inches.
B to T is 2/3 of 20y2 plus 1% inches. Draw lines 6-2 and 7-5.
Square up from T to U. 5 to 9 is 3 inches.
U to V is 1/6 of 20y2 plus inch. % Shape the bottom, 8-9, and the front, 9-5-2,
Drop point of shoulder Y inch at V. which completes the collar.
Page Thirty-six
Diagram XXI
Page Thirty-seven
Stout Mackinaw
Diagram XXII
Page Thirty-eight
Diagram XXII
Page Thirty-Nine
Shawl Collar Mackinaw Raglan Sleeve
Diagram XXIII
THEbe method
applied
used drafting sleeve can
in
overcoats. The draft
to made
this
is
8 to 9 is 10 inches.
Sweep from point. 7, using 7-15 as a radius to
two than the sack coat. Every
sizes larger establish point 10.
point should be studied and memorized. Meas- Draw line 15-10.
urements: Breast size 36; length 33 inches. Shape the gorge, lapel and front and bottom,
which completes the forepart.
THE DRAFT
Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G.
THE SLEEVE
A to B % inch.
is X to 12 is iy4 inches.
B to C V4 of 20.
is 12 to 40 is V2 of 19.
B to D is % of 20. Square down from 40 to 20.
B to E is 17%
inches. Make an arch from point U, using U-S as a
B to F
is 24 inches. radius.
B G is 33 inches, full length of coat.
to Take the distance U-S and make an arch,
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. using 40 as a center.
G to H
is 1% inches. These two arches intersect at point 34.
Draw line B-H. Draw line 34-40.
B to R is 1/6 of 20. 32 is half way between 31 and 40.
Square up from R to S. 34 to 35 is 1 inch.
R to S is IV2 inches. Draw line 35-32.
D to J is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. X to 21 is iy4 inches.
Square up from J to O. X to 22 is iy4 inches.
Draw line 3-P. Square down from X
to 23.
J to Q
is 1/12 of 20. 23 to 24 is 1 inch.
Square out from Q to T. 24 to 25 is lyj inches.
Q to T is 1 incn. 24 to 26 is iy4 inches.
Draw line S-T. Draw lines 21-25 and 22-26, hollowing out %
L to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. inch.
J to K is i inch. Square out from line 23 to 29.
Draw line K-M-N. 24 to 29 is 7y4 inches.
Shape the side-seam T-M-N, which completes Square down from 29 to 30.
the back. 29 to 30 is 1% inches.
THE FOREPART 20 to 39 is y2 inch.
Draw and 40-30.
lines 34-40
D to X is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% inches. Shape the inseam line 35-32-37.
Square up from X to 4. Take the distance 12-7 and make an arch,
4 to 5 is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch. using point 32 as a pivot.
Square down from 5 to 7. Take the distance 12-7 and make an arch,
5 to 7 is 8/4incn. using point 12 as the pivot, intersecting at
Draw line 7-12. point 33.
Shape the armhole 7-12-P. Draw line 33-32.
Take y4 inch at point T. Draw line 33-36.
M y2 inch.
to 13 is 1/0 33 to 36 is 1 inch.
V to 14 is 2V2 inches. Shape the front part of sleeve 36-12-21.
Draw line 13-15. Shape the inseam 33-38, which completes the
Shape the side-seam P-13-15, making it % top sleeve.
inch more than T-N. UNDER SLEEVE
D to Y is 19 inches.
Y to Z is SV2 inches. 40 to 17 is %
inch.
Z to 3 is 2V2 inches, x/2 of button stand. Draw line 17-30.
Square up from 3 to 6 and down from 3 to 10. Shape line 17-W.
6 to 8 is 1/6 of 19. Draw the bottom 30-26, which completes the
Draw line 4-8. draft.
Page Forty
Diagram XXIII
Page Forty-one
Making Longs and Shorts From Regular Block
Diagram XXIV
MAKING
trated
Longs and Shorts from the Normal Block Pattern. The changes herein illus-
are made from the normal block pattern, which is figured on a basis of 5 ft. 8 in.
in height. The short is figured for a 5 ft. 4 in. in height and the long is figured for a
6 ft. in height.
Page Forty-two
Diagram XXIV
Page Forty-three
Mail-Order Changes
HE
following diagrams explain in detail SLEEVE
T varying changes used in mail order houses.
These changes are made to one degree, or
1 to 5 is
Reshape
% inch.
the ball of sleeve.
Vi inch on square and sloping shoulders and %
on stooping and erect forms. The same prin- DIAGRAM C
ciple applies to the various degrees from J4 to
3 Making a stoop from the normal block.
4 inch.
BACK
Swing in the back as illustrated.
H to 9 and G to 8 is inch. %
I to 10 is *4 inch.
J to 11 is %
inch.
Reshape the back as illustrated.
FOREPART
Swing the forepart forward % of an inch,
using the notch of armhole as a pivot.
A to 3 and 2 to 3 is %
inch each.
B to 4 is %
inch.
Reshape shoulder front and armhole.
Diagram A
DIAGRAM A
Making a square shoulder from the normal
block.
BACK
A to 1 and B to 2 is Vs inch.
G to 3 is % inch.
Reshape the neck and shoulder.
FOREPART
E to 5 is % inch,
D to 4 is V
1/4
4 inch.
Reshape the shoulder.
Diagram B
SLEEVE
6 to 7 is }4 inch. DIAGRAM D
Reshape the ball of sleeve.
Making an erect from the normal block.
DIAGRAM B The change is made the opposite from the
T HESE diagramsfromshow hownormalmake
ing shoulder the
to a slop-
block.
stoop.
BACK
BACK H to A and G to H is % inch each.
F to 6 is Vi inch. F to 6 is %
inch.
Reshape the shoulder. Reshape the back.
FOREPART
B to 2 is Vi inch. FOREPART
C to 3 is 14 inch. A to 3 and 3 to 4 is %.
D to 4 is 14 inch. B to 5 is %.
Reshape the shoulder and armhole. Reshape the front.
Page Forty-four
Diagram D
FOREPART
G to 7 is V2 inch.
D to 4 is % inch.
Extend the forepart at front %
inch as illus-
trated by the dotted lines. Reshape the shoulder
and armhole, making the shoulder to correspond
with the shoulder of back.
3 to 6 is %
inch.
Reshape the side-seam.
SLEEVES
Take %inch off head of top sleeve, as illus-
trated by dotted line. Then hollow out under
sleeve Yx inch, as illustrated by line L-F.
Page Forty-five
DIAGRAM E
Making a long and short neck.
BACK
toand H to S is
U %
inch each.
toand H to T is x/4 inch each.
V
Reshape the neck and shoulder.
FOREPART
Draw line C-A from notch through shoulder
point.
A and A to J is % inch each.
to I
to M
and to L is *4 inch each.
Reshape shoulder and neck.
Diagram E
FOREPART
From 18 to 19 is 1 inch. Draw line 21-20-19 so as to make the side seam straight. Reshape
the bottom. Measure side seams so that they are equal in length, which completes the change.
Page Forty-six
Men's and Boys' Proportions
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Page Forty-seven
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