Fundamentals of

Textiles and Their Care

Fourth Edition

Susheela Dantyagi

Orient Longman
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<D Orilnt Longman Li~ited

First published 1959
b~lThe Indian Women Writers Cooperative Publishing Society, New Delhi
Second edition pu01jshed blOdent Longman L!mited 1964, Reprinted 1968
Third edition publisbed 1974, Reprinted 1977
Fourth editiop published 1983

ISBN 0 86131 431 X

Published by
Orient Longman Limited
New Delhi 110 002

PrInted in India at
Rajkamal Electric Press . .
4163 Arya Pura
Delhi 110007
 To
Late Rajkumari Amrit Kaur
 Acknowledgements

The author gratefully thanks the following organisations for their kind
and generous permission to use and reproduce tbe various photographs
and diagrams.
,
~ Jr~:!y~ New Delhi
The Delhi Cloth and General Mills Limited, Delhi
The Millowners' Association, Bombay
Mpdella Woollens Limited, Bombay
Modella Knitwear, Ludhiana, Punjab
Calico Mills, Ahmedabad
Bombay Dyeing and Manufacturing Co., Bombay
Hindustan L~e! Limited, 110m bay
Handloom Board, New Delhi
. .
Silk and Artsilk Research Association, Bombay
 Foreword

Any publication that will prove of use to Indian house wives and to
Home Science institutions is a welcome addition to the somewhat
meagre literature that is now available. Apart from this consideration,
Mrs Dantyagi's book has an intrinsic value that gives it an added
significance. I hope that this effort of hers to present to the Indian
public a vital aspect of an important subject will be followed by other
similarly useful contributions.
If the Indian home is to play its true role in modern life, the Indian
housewife must be kept abreast of all new trends and developments.
Indeed the home must be always responsive to the changing environ-
ment and to the changing needs, if it is to survive as an active agent
of progress. t;..
I am glad tbat the book is dedicated to Rajkumari Amrit Kaur, a
founder member of the Governing Body of the Lady Irwin College,
the pioneer and still the premier institution in India for Home Science
studies. Rajkumariji's keen and continued interest in the furtherance
of knowledge and in the promotion of the welfare of women is well
deserving of the tribute paid to her by Mrs Dantyagi. I have pleasure
in recommending Mrs Dantyagi's book to all schools and colleges
engaged in raising the status of Home Science courses and to all
individuals who desire to import into their homes an atmosphere of
bappiness, harmony and security.

(LATE) HANNAH SEN

 Preface to. the Fourth Edition

Due to popular demand, both from students and consumers, the fourth
edition of the book h~s ben suitably revised and expanded.
In response to a demand from students, particular topics as: the
scope of textiles, high tenacity viscose rayon, permanent press in
fabrics, 'Home-dyeing-the Batik way' have been added.
Admittedly, our textile industry is scaling new heights and entering
bew horizons. Our manmade fibres/fabrics are not used to satisfy
apparel needs of the country alone. They have industrial household
and defence uses also. While it is not only. necessary to buy these
textiles wiseII' it is equaIJy.,necessary to care for them suitably. The right
choice and lise of cleaning supplies and detergents is a must. Realising
a need, a chapter on synthetic or soapless detergents has been added .
. The to~ics include: the plac1r of detergents today; the advantages
offered by soapless detergents; the manufacture of soapless detergents,
>soapless detergent powders, liquid soapless detergents and their use.
The author is gre~tly indebted '~o the Research Department of the
Hindustan Lever .Limited; Dr 0 P Singh, Professor and Head, Depart- ,
ment of Textiles, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab;
and to Miss B Daftary, Head orDepartment of Textile and Clothing
Construction, S.N.D. T. University, BO!,ibay, for tlIeir kind association
and revision of the book. -

SUSHEELA 'DANTYAGI

Preface to the Third Edition

I
The importance of Texti,!e~Education is increasing day by day specially
among women and girls. Today more than ever before, we have entered
into the market for manufacture of nylons and other synthetics.
The scope of this book has been considerably extended in the present
edition. A specia\ chapter has been added on synthetics and their use
in the home.
 The author is greatly indebted to Dr Maria Friesen of Ohio State
university, USA and Dr 0 P Singh, Textile Specialist of the College
of Rome Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, for their
kind assistance and advice in the revision of the book.

S.D.

Preface to the Second Edition

The need for printing the second impression.of the Fundamentals of
Textiles and Their Care had been felt in less than three years, but due
to several reasons it was not possibk to get this edition ,published. It
was gratifying to note that the response to the first edition of this
publication was very encouraging. This book was well received by
various agencies and areas. I appreciate. the interest shown by the
press; students, teachers and all the interested persons in the material
presented in this book.
In this s'e1:bnd edition serious .attention has been given to improver..,.
the material by making the necessary alterations and changes. Some
of the common problems which' are very pressing have been taken up
in this edition such as consumers' problems, art of selecting wearing
apparel, detergents, and use of indigenous dyes, etc. A special attempt
to make the description simple and understandable withont going into
technical details and terms of Chemistry has been made. During the
period after the first edition there have been many developments of
textiles. We have more and more of synthetic fibres, mixtures and
blended fabrics, which need to be explained to consumers. For students
especially, there is a definite need to indentify and recognise the
properties of these newer fabrics with the object of evaluating their
performance and to have a basic knowledge of the interrelations of
these textiles, I hope and trust that the efforts made to include these
changes and additions will be very meaningful to persons interested
in this field.
It would not have been possible to bring out this edition without
the help from friends and experts. My thanks are due to the Lady
Irwin college, where I have worked for several years. I am also grate-
ful to the 'experts in this subject who have always been so ,kind and
helpful. The commercial companies and the government agencies have
been kind enough to give me the necessary information and illustra-
tions for this book. I would like to once again thank all the friends
who have given me a helping band in this endeavour.

S.D.
 Preface to the First Edition
,
The material presented in this volume is the result of years of work
in developing a practical course for Textiles and Laundry Work in
the Lady Irwin College for Home Science.
In 1948, the book was made availahle in cyclostyled form to my
students. With more experience the book was revised and enlarged
and is now printed in response to pressing requests from several
friends, and colleges and schools.
In India, the one serious mistake which every Indian housewife
makes is the amount of soiling that she allows to accumulate on linen
before sending it to the dhobi. Perhaps the idea is to squeeze a little
more value out of the cost 'of laundering. But in doing that the house-
wife is only cheating herself; for though she may gain a little through
a slight extension of each wearing period she is indirectly shortening
the life of the fabric. The dhobi's crude method of laundering is (he
llistress of all housewives. His bhatti not only ruins precious fabrics
but is also a carrier of many a disease.
The aim of this volume is to create an interest in, and impart some
knowledge 'if, the funda!llentals of textiles, dyeing and laundering
processes. I\s the country is planning for more and more electricity at
cheaper cost, a chapter has been added to deal with electrical equip-
- ment fcit laundry work.
The l;>ook is intended mairl'l'y for the use of students taking training
, in Home Science, butdt is hoped it will also proye helpful to the
vigilant housewife who is anxious to be thrifty and know something of
the why and how of the textiles now in the market and of their
appropriate treatment in the home without drudgery. J
I wish to acknowledge mygrateful thanks to (Late) Mrs Hannah
Sen, the first Directress of the Lady -Irwin College, who has kindly
written a foreword to this book.
My indebtedness is also due to Mrs B Tara Hai, B.A., L.T., B.Sc.,
London, the Ex-Directress of the Lady Irwin College and to my
friends Dr (Mrs) M B Kagal and Dr M Baliga for their valuable
suggestions and kind help in the preparation of the book in its various
stages.
Last but not least my sincere thanks go to my husband for his
never-failing guidance_.'!lJ.d encou'ragement.
Acknowledgement IS also made to the authors and publishers who
have so kindly given permission for the use of their materials. The
names,are given in the Bibliography,

S.D.
 ~~~--..,-.
~- , .. ,( ~

......... .. _._ . "n"G

f"~,
l~

~
qi/7

Contents

SECTION A: TEXTILE FIBRES

1 TEXTILE FIBRES 1-43

Vegetable Fibres: Cotton, Linen.
Minor Vegetable Fibres: J~ne, Hemp, Ramie, Sunn, Abaca or
Manila, Sisal, Coiro
Cellulosic Manmade Fibre: Rayon.
2 ANIMAl: FIBRES 44-82
. Animal Fibres: Wool, Silk.
Casein Fibre or Lanital.
Soya bean Protein Fibre.
Ardil or Peanut Fibres.
Zein Fibres: Vicara.
3 THE THERMOPLASTIC FIBRES 83-118
Thermoplastic Fibres: Acetate, Nylon, Dacron or Terelene,
Vinyon, OrIon.
Mineral Fibres: Asbestos.
Glass Fibres.
Metallic Yarns.
Rubber.
Paper Yarns.
4 STRUCTURE OF FABRICS 119-153
Yarn Constructions: Staple Yarns, Ordinary Yarns, Novelty and
Fancy Yarns.
Fabric Constructions: Weaves, Knits, Lace, Felts.
Finishes and Finishing Materials: Preliminary steps to
Finishing, Dyes, Finishing, Guidelines for Judging
Quality, Mixtures and Blended Fabrics.
5 COLOUR IN FABRICS AND INDIGENOUS DYES 154-161
Printing.
 SECTION B: CONSUMERS' PROBLEMS AND SELECTION OF FABRICS
I
6 TEXTILES AND CLOTHING 191-178
Problems of the Consumer.,
Guidelines for Suitable Selection of Fabrics.

SECTION C: LAUNDR1 MATERIALS., SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT

7 WATER/179-184

8 LAUNDRY SOAPS AND TIIEI~SE 185-192

Types of Soap.

9 SOAPLESS DETERGENTV 193-195

~O MANUFACTURE OF SOAPLESS DETERGENTS 196-200'

v\
I,ll STIFfENING AGENTS USED IN LAUNDRY WORK 201-205.
\
12 LAUNDRY BLUES' 206-207

~13 ADDITIONAL LAUNDRY REAGENTS 208-213

Alkaline A~ents.
Acid Agents. '
Solvent.
Absorl!~nts.

;:11 BLEACHES AND T~EIR USE 214-218

\.. Oxidizing Bleaclies.
Reducing Bleaches.

,15 LAUNDRY EQUlPMENT..,419-243 ~ _

WaShing Machines.
Irons.
Main Types of Ironers.

SECTION D: HOUSEHOLD LAUNDERrNG

il~OVAL OF STAINS 244-253

I
J 17 PRINCIPLES OF WASHINQ"ANn THEIR APPLICATiON 254-258
Cleansing. J
18 LAUNDERING OF COTTON AND LINEN FABRICS 259-289
"
 19 TREATMENT OF WOOLLENS 290-301

20 TREATMENT OF COLOURED ARTICLES 302-304

21 LAUNDERING OF SILKS 305-309 ~

22 LAUNDERING OF RAYONS AND NYLONS 310-312 ~

23 RENOVATING TREATMENT OF SPECIAL ARTICLES 313-317

,24 TREATMENT OF LACE 318-321 /

25 DRY CLE~!!ING ._322-325 ~

26 CARE OF CARPETS 326-328

27 DISINFECTION IN THE HOME 329330"

28 SIMPLE HOME DYEING 331-337

Batik Printing.
,
IndigenQus Dyes of India.
.~

.129 STORING OF CLOTHES 338-340 /

PERMANENT PRESS IN FABRICS 341-343
BIBLIOGRAPHY 345
INDEX 347
 To the Reader

This book has been prepared in response to numerous requests for

basic, practical information about fabrics.
Although Textiles are important to every household, most people
realise that their knowledge of fabrics is somewhat sketchy. For
example, in examining fabrics, many consumers rely on the appearance
of the cloth and the way it feels to the touch.
An understanding of fabrics involves knowledge of fibres, construc-
tions and finishes in addition to familiarity with the various types of
textile fibres.
The fact that there are hundreds of different fabrics, all of which are
useful and 'popular, shows that no one fabric, can possibly be most.r.
satisfactory. It is helpful, therefore, to think of fabrics in terms of
what you want them to do-the needs they are expected tofulfill.
Tbis book has been planned for you as a consumer, what are the
main characteristics, how to choose wisely, what to expect from the
fabric and how to care for it.
If you ace interested in a career in the Textiles and Clothing areas, this
information on the fundamentals of textiles will be no less important
to you for it is basic to the understanding of the Textile field, whether
for consumer use, for teacbing, research, merchandising or any of the
other applications of the allied fields as well.
In short, we need to remember that practically all variety in textiles
can be traced to these principal elements: (i) differences in yarns
(fabrics); (ii) differences in fabri~ construction; (iii) differences in
dyeing, printing and finishing.
It is obvious that the use of quality yarns js the first requirement
for quality fabrics.
There is a tremendous range of fabrics today and we have a wide
variety of fabrics at our command.
SECfION A : TEXTILE FIBRES

C.HA PTE R 1

Textile Fibres

From ancient days India has been famous for her beautiful fabrics.
The art of her gold brocades and filmy muslins 'comely as the curtains
of Solomon' is older than the Puranas. The Puranas tell us that spin-
ning and weaving were important handicrafts and that Vedic Indians
were fond of Suvasas or beautiful garments. Vedic hymns sang of
Ushas, the daughter of Heaven, 'clothed with radiance' .. .'Day and
night spreading light and darkness over the earth like two female
weavers weaving a garment'. From the Arthashastra we learn that the
materials employed for spinning then were wool (urna), cotton
(karpasa), hemp (tula) and flax (kshauma). The work of weaving in
those days was entrusted only to women, and their wages depended
upon the fineness of the yarn which they spun.
Textile fabrics originally took their names from the piace where they
first acquired excellence and retained them long. after the local manu-
facture had been transferred elsewhere. Thus we have dam ask from
Damascus, satin from Zaytown in China, sindon, sandalin from Sindh,
calico from Calicut, worstcd from Worsted in England, and muslin
from Mosul (in Asiatic Turkey). Chintz is derived from chint, or chote,
which in Hindi means 'spotted'. whence cnitta; cramoisy from kermes,
which means 'insect'.

SCOPE OF TEXTILES

The scope of textiles is vast and ever expanding. We are all aware
that the prime needs of man are food. clothing, shelter and fuel.
Textiles serve the indiVidual (man, woman and child), the home and
the country. They add to our comfort, appearance and to our every
happiness in several ways by their exceptional versatility. In the home,
and in interior decoration textiles help enhance their beauty. In a
larger sphere, they help serve our country in the army, navy, aeronau!!
tics and in our manifold industries. In recent years, there has been ati!
ever increasing demand forI
our textiles and clothing, both at home,l
and abroad. !I
Almost every state in India has its own exclusive textiles. Kashmir', ',a
popularly called 'The Touchstone of Beauty' is noted for its differeni',
exquisite embroidered fabrics. Kashmir carpets are famous all over'l
the world for their elegance, exquisite designs, workmanship, with
appropriate colour schemes and fine texture. They make our homeliving'
more graceful. Yet another of Kashmir's unsurpassed
,
handmade textile I
treasures are the Pashmina shawls. As Charles Dickens said: 'If an,
article of dress could be immutable it would be the Kashmir shawl"
designed for Eternity in the unchanging East, copied from pattern; I
which are heirlooms '~f the Orient'. For untold ages, Banaras has
been the home of Brocades and other select ,fabrics. We have the
exquisite Patolas from Patan, the silky muslin saris from Chanderi,'
delicate fabrics from Bengal, the Phulkaris from Punjab and so on. I

In order to gain a better understanding of the scope of textiles, we

need to view the field in particular to India's total Planning process,
and the objectives envisaged for the socioeconomic development of
our country. Each of our Five Year Plans present a picture of conti.
nuity andlbvolution in our basic economIc-social policies. Each Plan' I
has devoted careful attention to the polid~al-social requisites of'
planning with fresh ways for strengthening institutions, establishing','
methods and machinery and'broadening tne manpower base.. '
While the First Five Year Plan of 1951 marked the beginning of
community developl)1ent and national extension services in rural areas, (
the Second and Third Plans made the concept of planning and deve-
lopment more complete and dynamic with a clear comprehensive 10Jg '
term approach to the problem, of industries and economic develop-
ment. Industry was given a leading role in securing rapid economic
advance. In order to overcome the tlifficulty of'the lack of a trained
personnel, education,. with emphasis on the technological an,l scientific
side and research was given major importance. Personnel for the pro-
fessions and the semi-professions were to be prepared. The pattern
of professional education differs from field to field-as for instance
the profession of textile technology has developed it's own pattern
of professional education. ! .
Admittedly, during ~,,-past few decades, a new textile world has
emerged. New fibres, new fabrics and new finishes make new demands,
for understanding and evaluation. The progress of Rayons, the advent
of new synthetic fibres and finishes seem to speak volumes. Our ever- I
increasing variety..-of fabrics in a wide range of colours is almost
countless. Today light-weight, soi'l-resistant, permanent-pressed fabrics, .
2
durable-pressed garments are becoming increasingly popular. Modern
production methods overcome some of the old difficulties in making
fibres into fabrics. We now make some fibres usable which formerly
were unusable. We have now a whole range of beautiful fabrics which
arc crease-resistant, lustrous, or dull as the desi re may be. They do
not 'pill', do not accumulate dust or dirt or 'static electricity'. Our
manufacturing plants are constituting fabrics in weaving, knitting,
feltin~
a
and the like. Lightweight, 'drip
. .
dry', garments have become
household words. We have fabrics for furnishings, for industry, army,
navy and aeronautics, which are becoming increasingly popular both at
home and abroad.
The Handloom Export Promotion Council, set up by the Govern-
ment of India, takes steps to .promote the export of India's handloom
fabrics. In order to achieve this, the Council organises trade missions
and overseas market studies. This should open a communication
channel that will continually feedback information about international
market trends, consumer preferences and distribution facilities. Among
its many responsibilities will the collaboration and publication of
literature concerning the handloom industry for dissemination in
foreign countries, and the staging of exhibitions abroad to educate
the foreign public of the beauty and splendour of the handloom fabrics
and the varieties of uses to which they could be put. The Council
looks after quality standards and takes prompt action to settle comp-
laints. It helps the producer to get quality raw material and also
helps the exporters effectively in such matters as shipping opportuni-
ties, freight rates, credit problems, getting foreign exchange for visits
abroad, matters relating to drawback, sales-tax, etc.
This ever-increasing horizon of the textiles industry is largely the
work of our professional personnel-more goods and more services
are being made available to mankind. These developments arise be-
cause intelligent and ingenious technologists invent and refine new
methods of serving mankind's needs and because the public is willing
and able to pay for the improved services and goods.
There is a dire need for informative labelling, quality marking,
indication of brands and standardisation to help the consumer get his
money's worth. A pioneering effort in this direction is being made by
the Indian Standards Institution which has a certification mark of
lSI. All standard goods must have the lSI certification mark.
As aptly said by our well kl)own philosopher and educationist, Swami
Ranganadananda of the Ramakrishna Mission: 'We are passing
through a renaissance. For the first time in our long history, India has
resolved to translate her vision of human excellence into reality by
earnestly embarking on the creation of'a free and equalitarian society
offering opportunities for self-development to everyone of its citizens.
3
Every citizen of modern India owes it to itself and to the nation at
large to strive and to becom~ strong and dynamic. Such strength is the
product of faith in oneself: and in one's country and heritage, re-
inforced by the assimilation of all available knowledge-national and
international. The growth of a new and dynamic India effecting
revolutionary changes within her body politic consistent with her
vision of human .excellence and exe~ting her distinctive influence on
the rest of the world is the vision that should inspire all our life,'
education, politics and religion. If this is the vision of Modern
Renaissance, who are the agents to work it out? The instruments of
social change in our modern society are the educated folk of that
society'.
An infinite variety of fabrics arc available today. In order to under-'
stand how different mal~rials must be laundered, one should know
something of their origin, manufacture, and prol'erties, and their
reaciions to the different processes. -
The common textile fibres may be classified as follows:

r, Natural
Cotton-Seed Hair
Flax-Stem
Cellulose Ramie-Stem

i"

I
Jute-Stem
l'emp-Stem
Sunn-Stem
I
,L
Sesal
Coir

,r Manufaclured
E_ayon-Pure cellulose
Cellulose I Viscose _
(Regenerated) ~
I Cuprammonium
L High-tenacity Rayons

,r
Natural
Wool-Sheep
Mohair-Angora Goat
I Cashmere and other speciality
I
I wool~
Protein
y-
,
Silk-silkworm
Manufactured
Ardil-Peanut fibre
I
I Vicara--:Zein of Corn
L Caslen-Casein of milk
4
Every citizen of modern India owes it to itself and to the nation at
large to strive and to become strong and dynamic. Such strength is the
product of faith in oneself and in one's country and heritage, re-
inforced by the assimilation of all available knowledge-national and
international. The growth of a new and dynamic India effecting
revolutionary changes within her body politic consistent with her
vision of human excellence and exerting her distinctive influence On
the rest of the world is the vision that should inspire all our life,
education, politics and religion. If this is the vision of Modern
Renaissance, who are the agents to work it Ollt? The instruments of
social change in our modern society are the educated folk of Ihal
sodety'.
An infinite variety of fabrics arc available today. In order to under-
stand how different materials must be laundered, one should know
something of their origin, manufacture, and properties, and their
reactions to thc different processes.
The common textile fibres may be classified as tollows:

r Natural
I Cotton-Seed Hair
I Flax-Stem
Ramie-Stem
~
Cellulose
~ Jute-Stem

,,' II Hemp-Stem
Sunn-Stem
Segal
I
l
" Coir
r Manufactured
1 Rayon-Pure cellnlose
Cellulose I Viscose
(Regenerated) ~
I Cuprammonium
L High-tenacity Rayons
r Natl/ral
I Wool-Sheep

I Mohair-Angora Goat
Cashmere and other speciality

~I
wools
Protein Silk-silkworm
Manufactured
- i Ardil-Peanut fibre
I
I Vicara-Zein of Corn
L Caslen-Casein of milk
4 /
Tbermoplastic ~
r Acetate- Cellulose Ester
Nylon- Polya mide
Dacron- Polyester
! Orion-Acrylic
I
L Vinyon
( Natural
I Asbestos
I
Manufactured
I Fibreglass
I
Mineral ~ Metallics
I Other common fibres
Rubber
} Alginates
l Paper

VEGETABLE FIBRES

COTTON
Antiquity
Cotton is the fabric for every home and is the most widely produced
of textile fabrics today. It has now been proved that India was the

FIG. 1.1 A wood cut of tbe 'wool plant'

5
 first coaa~ to m......_ cottoa. .Amoq the recent fiDda at
Noh.eajocJaro wen a ,_ . . . of CIOItoII stictiDa to the side of a
IiMr 'f88e. This shows that cotton
iInIlt have boen produced in India
II tar bIck as ftal the fourth
miDeDDiwn ..e. Historiaus speak
01 the beautifUl pUnted ADd printed
clothes which were IOld ia Baypt
and some parts of Europe lema
before the time of AleuBder.
It is not bown when IIIdiut
ftrat started 'ltrade with Europe,
but the use. or die oriental wOld
CarbasiDa' (Banatrit : brpaaa) for
cotton s........ that it must have
been ill use before 200 c. To the
Greets who . . . to IBdia with
AJeunder the Oreat in 326 B.e.
India was a laud. of mystery. They
were so surprised to see cottoa
that they called it 'wool produced
in nuts' 'lbey wrote: -ne wild trees
of that country (India) bear fteeces
PIG. 1.2 ADc:La lII8IIuraaur; of cotton as their ftuit, surpasaiaa those of
sheep in beavty and excellence, and
the IDIIilns use doth JDade from this treewool'. We also learn from
tbcm tbat lndiaJJs even in dle days in contrast to tlleir simple lirin,
loved futery. Many,fthcir aanneDta were worked ill aold and orna-
meated in preciOUI stoaeI, or they were made of the finest 'tlowered
mUllin'.
Even durins the tilDe of the Buddha, Baoaras and Dacca were noted
for the finest cotton fabrics-'80 soft and smooth was their texture
and tJae bleachina so perfect'. It is sUt1Jaat the mortal remains of the
Buddha were covered with cloth from Bauaras. The muslins of Daeca
have Ioq been famo... The name 'mualin' is deriwd from the city of
Nosal in Asiatic Turkey, where the fabric was _made. Marco
Polo, the Ant Veaetiaa traveller to the I!aat clariDa the thirteenth
ceatury. lays, -AU tile clothes of,oId,ad silver that are called moJO-
"". are made in this country'". (Marc:o Polo, Boo1t I. Chapter V) This
Ihow. III that moaolla or musJia had a very dJInot _au., from
what it has now. ~ cdY devoted to the teclmiques em-
pIoyed.in the weaYiDi -01 thO famed Jndiaa musJiDs, the process
ahowa in Pi&- 1.3 C8Il be taba. as I1IIPdive of the weavins of delicate
fabrics, sud! as aiIba broc:acfel aacl1:tnthabs' paeraUy.
6
PitQClSS OF 1'EXTIU W!""'" ItI _'A
 Early records tell us of the rare muslin produced in Dacca, which
when laid wet on the grass became invisible from the ground, and
because it became indistinguishabl~ from the evening dew it was named
'Shubnam' i.e., 'evening dew'. Another kind was called 'Abrawan' or
'running water', because it becarp.e invisible in water. Yet another
variety was known by a station at Arikamedu near Pondicherry, which
reveals that largescale bleaching, starching and dyeing operations
were undertaken in the immediateivicinity.
It is also related that Emperor Aurangzeb one day reproached his
daughter Zebunnisa foi'lacl<: of modesty in dress showing her skin
through her clothes; whereupon the princess hunibly replied, 'Father,
I have already entwined myself eightfold with the Shubnam.'
These muslins were of various qualities and of different designations.
The finest of all Dacca muslins was 'called Mu/mul Rhas' or the 'king's
muslin'. It was generally made in half pieces which measured 10 yds
36 in wide. The weight was a~\;lUt 30 oz and the yarns about 250'5 to
300's counts.
The Abrawan or 'running water' was considered the second quality.
These measured, usually, 20 yds by 1 yd and weighed only 7! oz. A
storY'goes that in the time of Nawab'Aliwardhikhan, a weaver was
chastised and turned'out of the city of Dacca for his neglect in not
preventing his cow from eating up a piece of Abrawan which he had
spread and carelessly left on the grass, This shows how fine the fabric
was even at that;time. BesideS"Dacca, fine muslins were produced at
Banaras, Chanderi, Kolah and Ami also.
I Another ~hriety was Jamdani or 'figured muslin'. These have been
, spoken of as ,the chef'd'aeuvre of tr.e Indian weaver. They are seen in
artistic designs displaying the superb skill in manipulation of loom'
elj!broidery. The chikkan (needle work) embroidery muslins and
printed muslins are other vatieties showing considerable beauty.
A popular method of testing fineness was to ascertain that a piece
of cloth could be passed through a lady's finger ring.
These bright cotton fabrics of India reigned supreme for hundreds
of years. No wonder they excited the spirit of rivalry among the western
countries. As far back as even five thousand years theJndus Valley sent
out its popular cotton cloth known as 'Sindhu' or 'Sindon' to Baluchis-
tan and Babylon. Through land and sea routes a brisk trade in printed
cotton fabrics was carried on with EgYpt, Arabia, Turkistan, China,
Thailand and Java. Trade was of such magnitude that new villages
sprang. up engaged solely in:.:supplyiiIg the demands of foreign
p.larkets.
8
 Long years after, when the Arab merchant,boats plied the Arabian
Sea carrying goods to Europe. they took with them shiploads of the
varied printed cottons. According to Jacquemart, the famous French
writer, these Arab traders got the 'chipas' or printers of the Coromandel
coast to print these. fabrics for them on the spot, all for a mere
pittance. These they sold at fabulous prices in the southern countries
of Europe, where many an ignorant buyer was told the fabrics were
from Arabia.

FIG. 1.4 A sea~going ship of the sixth century carrying a lot of

textiles and cargo (From the Cave H at Ajania)

However that may be, the bright cotton fabrics of Hindusthan

remained a source of wealth and prosperity to the Arab countries for
several centuries and were the envy of the rising nations in Europe.
But cotton manufacture did notobtain a real footing in Europe
until the last century. Long before the dawn of recorded history, the
art was carried from India to Assyria and Egypt. Thence it passed
over to the Italian States in the thirteenth centuri and reached England
only in the last century.
Soon the English tried ways and means to produce cotton textiles.
During the last hundred years they have made such rapid progress
that they have surpassed the East in the manufacture of cotton mate,
9
 ,
'I '

FIG. 1.5 In England cotton fibre was first used for

making candJewkks and not for clothing

rials. The introduction of suitable machinery for spinning helped this

progress.

. Origin
., The fibre '
comes from
,
the fruit of
the collpn plant .which grows in the
'tropical regions of the w<lfld. It is ..,
the downy 'boll' that surrounds the
sceqs ofthe plant. The cotton fibre
is alSt, called a 'seed hair' because
it is the fluffy fibrous material
which envelopes the seeds of the
plant, as distinguished from stem
or bast fibres such as flax or hemp.
The priucipal cotton producing
regions are Egypt, Southern United
States, India, Brazil, the western
and ,outhern coasts of Africa and
the East Indies. The U.S.A. pro-
duces more than 40 per cent of
/ the world's cotton. India ranks
second to the United States as/,,-
producer and exporter of cotton. FIG. 1.6 The cotton 'boll'
10
Manufacture of handmade cotton in India
The tools and appliances used by cotton weavers consist of a spinning
wheel (charka) and a spindle (takli). The cotton is first separated, and
carding follows. A bow-shaped beater known as a dhun is used for
the purpose. The string of the bow is placed on the cotton and is
made (0 vibrate by means of a wooden hammer. These vibrations
disentangle the fibres and cleanse these of all foreign matter such as
seeds and leaves, and soft fine cotton is left behind. This fine cotton
is next rolled on a stick in the form of a cylinder, about half a cubit
long and half an inch in diameter. This is fastened to the spindle or
takli. The wheel is turned again and again and the thread is gently
and carefully drawn out, until the thread is about three hundred
yards long. It is then taken out of the wheel and rolled on the charka.
When a quantity of thread has been spun and collected, it is wound
on a bamboo reel.
"When this is done the threads about IOOO-2400-according to the
stuff required-are worked on the mill. The length of the warps are
generally 50-1000 yards long. It is now set ready for weaving on the
handloom.
On finishing the weaving, the cloth is calendered with a blunt beater
to give it a gloss and to soften it.
It is finally p;!ssed to the hand folders to give the cloth the final
(04'
fold. The clotn IS then stamped, ticketed, and made ready for sale.
In recent years there has been a rapid development in the Handloom
Sector to meet the demand for bringing about technical and asthetic
betterment.
Realizing the socia-economic importance of the hand loom sector a
number of development programmes have been taken up recenHy.
Some of the highlights of the development programme inclUde
(1) Modernisation of looms
(2) Training weavers in improved techniques
(3) Development of cooperatives for production and marketing
(4) Diversifying production and increasing usc of multifibres
(5) Promoting consumer preference for handloom products, includ-
ing fairs and exhibitions, and exports. Steps are being taken to
bring into operation new spindlage so as to modernise equip-
ment to meet the full demands of the hand loom sector for
yarn-both for the home and export market.
Manufacture of cotton by machinery
PREPARATION. The fibres arc first removed from the seeds which are
used for the production of seed oil, hydrogenated fats, soaps and
cosmetics. The cotton mass is then compressed into bales for shipment
to the spinning mills.
11
 Flo. J.7 Tatli
PJo. l.9 B ....,.

 a.EAN'IMO AND c::AItDINO

A eomw ...
..,._ roriIrc
c 1mrIrN6.101iDa
D ~rcwN
1! llie...,
p . . . . . , . .. . . . . 'or
six-eord*-l

JIINISIIINO. Tho cotton cloth is .ow ready for 8niabiq whicJa iacIudes
stardIiDa. calellderiq. .....oriziac. IChreineriDag, ~ or
other finishes 88 is necessary for the particular 1180 for which the doth
is iGtended. 1'heae fiDish~ be applied to the yaros, but are usually
applied to tJA fabric. The fabrics may be given these special luishes
befOftl or after dyeiu,. SoJDe of theIe finishes are durable, othon semi-
4arab1e. ~entists, are improvi. on them everyday.
.
sa II eel."
The cottoA fibre is shOJt (I" to 2- loag) aud cylinclrkAll or tubular as
it ..... After ripeaiD& the sap inside the fibre drlcs lip It) tIJat the ,
fibre 8atteBs aad twists. This QaturaI twist ia of areat im~ u
it helps to keep the yarD firm aDlt Mrog aad mates it euier to tpiD
it mto 10111 tbleads. These twists are ctlled coDvolotioas. TIle Ibns
vary in the Dumber of coavolutions per iac:b.....-e coaoa ...
haW. as may as 300 per inch. Immatme cottoa 'Ilea .. JectitI8
in coavolutioDS. LoDJ JeaaPl and many coovolutioAl help fa the apia-
aiaJ 01 the ftbres. The fibre Of the yam when uatwistecl appell'S straicht
and inelastic

.......... ,,1III'8IIte
'Bx8JDinccl1Ulclcr the JDiaOsCope, tbe fibre is seen to be a narrow,
.tteoed structure with a spiral twist, with thick ir.npJar ectaea.

"
 COTTON FABRICS
Kapok
It is a cotton fibre from" tree in India and the East Indies, called silk
floss. It is unsuitable for spinj1ing as it has no natural twist but is
useful for lifebuoys, belts 'and mattresses. Kapok is resistant to
vermiu, moisture, drying quikly when' wet. It is adaptable for articles
that are constantly exposed \0 moisture. Kapok is used for sound
proofing on airplanes and for insulating material. Under the micro-
scope, kapok is ea;ily distinguisbed from cotton as it appears to be a
hollow circular tube with very thin walls. It has no twists.
Composition of the fibre
The colton fibre i. essentially cellulose, consisting of carbon, hydrogen
and oxygen in the proportion of C.HIOO,. Bleached cattail is almost
.pure cellulose. Raw cotton contains about 5 per cent of impurities,
.
.,. seed oil, pectic acid, colouring matter,
consisting principallY of cotton
albumen, and wax. The wax acts as a protective coating to the fibre.
making it water-repellant. -
Flannelette and Flannel
Asoft napped cotton fabric, its warmth in wear being due to the fact
that the nap entangles a layer of air between the warm body and the
cold outside. In composition it is the same as ordinary cotton, but
treatment in weaving makes it very inflammable. For this reas,:,n
attempts ha~ been made'to.make it fireproof by saturating the fibre
with metallic'salt, but in general the fire-proofing'does not withstand
washing.,Flannelette is napped on one side only a~d flannel is napped
~n both sides. "
9rgandie
\.. A thin light fabric in the plain weave with a very stiff finish. It is
made from good quality combed yarn. Yarn is made from long staple,
cotton and is spun with many twists. This, along with the finishing
process produces its characteristiC"transparent' crispness. The aim is
to give a permanent finish. The fabric i~ ~sed for summer and evening
wear.
Muslin
It is a cool, very light, plain weave cloth also used for summer wear .
The name is derived from the city of Mosul (Asiatic Turkey), where
the fabric was first made. Muslins were not always plain, but had
silk and even gold stripes woven in, when made in Mosul, but as
cotton grew plentifully around, the town, and the women could spin
yarns of great fineness, the cotton yarns gradually superseded silk.
18
 During the first century A.D., Indian muslins and jamdanis became
farnous in Rome under such names as nebula, gangetika and venti
textiles (woven winds). This translates the technical name of a special
type of Dacca muslin current in Bengal, which industry was ruined
by Lancashire products.
Chemical reactions
Mild alkaline substances such as ammonia, borax, and silicate of
soda, are not harmful to the cotton fibre. But it may affect the colour
of dyed cotton. Prolonged boiling, however, in the presence of air is
likely to tender it.
Dilute caustic alkali can be used with safety in the absence of air,
but concentrated caustic solutions change the nature of the fibre.
Dilute acids, such as sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, have little or
no effect on cotton, but if they are allowed to remain in the fabrics
for long the acid will become concentrated during drying and the
fabric will be weakened. Concentrated mineral acids destory the fibre.
All bleaches can be used with safety, but the use of oxidizing agents
demands great care, since they tend to weaken the fibre. Hence
thorough rinsing is necessary to ensure the removal of all traces of
acid from the fabric.
Other reactions'

Long exposure to water or moisture has no harmful effect on cotton'
fabrics. The tensile strength of cotton is greater when wet than when
dry. The strength of cotton increases about 25 per cent when wet. This
is important in washing and ironing. Fabrics which are stronger when
wet can be handled with less care. Hardness of water has no action on
the fibre but discoloration may result from the deposit of insoluble
soaps, produced by the action of soap on the hardening substances in
the water.
Friction can be applied and the fabric can be stretched without any
harmful effect, but fineness of fabric and looseness of weave have to
be taken into consideration, otherwise shrinkage and undue wear may
result.
Heat isnot harmful unless scorching takes place. The fibre can be
safely exposed to moist heat at boiling point. It scorches readily when
heat is applied by an over-heated iron. Prolonged steaming at 99C
to 100C has a tendering effect.
Exposure to light tends to weaken the fabric.
Cotton absorbs'moisture as well as wool or silk. Thus if worn next
to the skin, it absorbs perspiration readily and soon gives a sense of
chill.

19
An 'I,) fer .,.
COItOJI does not dye as readily u wool ot silk, but ita aihity for
colGan iI considerably ~ wIleR ... Abre is naercoriIed.
DiNot cottoB dyes haw . , . .-..y
for cottoa and can be appIie(I
from their aqueous solu~ without tho help of a 1IlOl'daL Similarly
azoic dyes, sulphur and rit dyes _ve aftinity for cottaa. CoUoD baa
DO dbaity for acid dyes wNda ~ used for dyeinl wool and silk.
Cotton is : t to molhs bpt is attaclced by miJdew and 1ilvedis1f.
Mildew and oc:eur UDder most warm conditioas. Tho miero
orpDiSllll aced t moisture anel food to crow. Hence it is advisable
that cottoD fabrb be stored unstardled in a dry place aDd care lhouW
be taken to see that soiled clothes are dry before beina put into tho
dirty-cJothes box or Jinen bag.
& '1
In 81IIIUIIUY, it may be qFiJy said that despite the prapwsiYeIy more
rapid inroads beiaa made into its market areas by dao .,athetic ftbres,
cotton contiauea to be the world's major textiJe ftbtt.,..
It it one of the oldest and most versatile of aU Abres and is able t~
contn"ute aD of its lood properties to blend with other fabrics. Some
of the main re&SODI for the use of cotton are its lood weavinl qualities,
low cost, high absorption, excellent abrasion and pilIiDc-re:aistancca
stability to repeated bJeadaess and excellent if preshrunk. aafe iroa.iDa
~mr, at ewa 42S711Ki colour fastaeu, excellent washaad wear
ad wriDkI teaiatance also lood if resin trea~.

III
LINEN
AIIdIt*,
TIle art of matinlliaen from ftu is andeDt indaatry. The history
lineD ... beea closely ideatiW with the umaIa of Egypt. Aceorctillldl
to EaJptian mythology, &ax wal1heJlrst tbiDg created for theJ. . . ..
by the lods before appearinl on earth. A series of graphic piiCtw. .
depictin. the eatire proceas of flu culture were ditcoYered ill 1881
one of the tombs of the P.baraoII&. datiaa aboUl2,500 Y" Wi
amst. TIais is pd of the early liaen weaYing in d&e MIe valley.
if Baypt was not the birthplace of Iiaea 'it was, at least its cradle. as
was in this country tUt Iiaea l'CIIlCW'a perAclioIt MIIdom equalled

Badier 1baD tiline CNidcacea or......,. it_ .......

&net arpassed elsewhere ia either . . aneieat or tho modem wodIL

Swft'J.ab-dweIlen as"" lJack as the StoDe Ago used the abies 01

WWW

willi tu tor Ish JiaeI aad nets.

Z ,
 The biblical delcriptioa of the
_itral point of wor..
T.......,
aa ewryday wont to tile WI'iMn of till ..... It wu
WWcb.

of Israel, teUa us
were or Au
Aaron the hiah
the holy pIKe. bf
coat aa4 p-
his head was a lineD
dlowa tile U1Iique
hea in the history
Warden writes,
lliatca:m.bl:ic Ot tiaea. of
loob coane be-
,,)iDleDS of EaYPtiaJa
or Pharaohs'
pread. lineD
8p1'8DI up in other
PhoeDicians with
Ieet opened up
of com8letee to the
Mecfitenaacan, aDd
arowiDI and lined
into Ireland before
of 0Irist. Ho......
" l IlISii0D5 preveotod the
iDdustry, aDd it was
twcJfth century that
was OIIiIed into
By 1685, Irelaad
c:eatre for the 1II8IMI-
.liDca. The word liaea'
the CeitW word, Ilia'.

early 1800',
linen weaven ~
w_
iDdDatry iD the U.s.A.

COUDtry.
lineD was collUllOllly
tile time. of ......
_~ Dllntiou ...,..

of au GI' iIba.....
... ",,*t r.bsiG
. , . oIlA111d PuddIII
2t
 It was particuJarly &eJected ad used for ... robes of tho 'Ruddbist
moab or bbibhus.
0rIPt
The tiDea fibre .. obtaiMd~ Item of the au plat, whicll &tOWS
tbroqboat ... temperate te wIaere theIe is suIIdeDt moiItare.
TIle ...... 1aItic StateI, t PJuce,B~ NortIlem JreIaa4.
CeatraI Ala ...... .,.111
A.meftb ato the COUDtries wben au
islfOWll~
TIle boIUricaI fot COIUIOIl . . plant is u.... WI"'''''''''
'I'Ilere are two type8t of Sa JIOWIl. tibre au aDd aeecl iIIIx. TJae f01'lllOl'
is IfOWIl maiDIy for fibre purpoea,
with the eeed crop aecoaduy; the
ok is IfOWIl _ its seed, ...
the fibre quaIidcs are aecoadary.
The is aD. aaual pIut If01riDI
to maximum htiPt of .boat
4O.iDches. 'l1Ie steal is ..... aacI
stl8ipt; the
blue colour.
&oWen'" of a pale

The Ibres for the linen yams

,row in the hut or woody part of
the stem of the 8u plant. Thus
they are called 'bast fibres'
M-rM"e
The 8aJ: plants are Jl'OWD closely
1# to prcwllt the stems from branch-
ina. for oncc a braIlch bRlb &qat
the parent stem the Abn aboVe
tbat point is of "Ule ftIue. The
plants ato pulled by iliad or
adriae, and care is tabu that
"1Ile. entire lin from ita top to
root is intact.
After polliDa. the seeds are
PJd.l.17 PJu.... .....
. . die ......... . . fOID01ed &ad uaeit for die produc-
.......... wIda-u tion of IiDseecI 00.
. . . . 8Dddae ..... urn'Ho. 'lids is followed by
rerda8 or SCeepiDa in which the
ftesIly pill of tile .... is rotted by CODt8ct with water. 1biI proceaa is
canW out ." ~ it &otbe actIDa of ......... or "'a8M"t water,
or to acdoa of. . Of _Jteldalie a tenDe.. prooeea where the
,_", . . . . . (pectia __) hac:tcria. the .,... 0( whid& aiR ia tile
22
 to ... ud eat the pia (pectia) ftidl Wads tile lin to

fa ROW doae ia Iup teUioa .......... die ..._.....

_mtun of tile water ad the . . . . . C08IIt caa'" . . , . ,
(See Flo. 1.19). Rettill&J!OqIIiIet . . . week ... it ..
Itep ia au )lIRpIaItioa. _ _ ............ la ...117
_ally IUlOVedby . . . . . . . . . tJen: ~ .....
tllem with I'OYOhiaa ....... coIOIIl''''~ of tbo
The buDdIII . . tIrea 4decI ill ........
UIV.
By tIIis proeeaa. d WOOlly __ pottfoJII are
tIP sad ftIIIDOwd. AD eadJ . . . . f6 - ...... wu tD p1Me

..............
of the Ike iD a cleft or a
a ICtIIIdD&
lildiDla 81'0
on the
poet .....

DOW"" wIIIch
IUIe .......

PIG. US ~ en..-:doa
orlu ItaIk ...... the cIiItrilJudoa
or u-.......
tile butldIe
or die TadIt ......)
(Col"''''
. . , ___ -.oc6, IDe . . ...,. ft8dy lot ......... 11lt
~. . boWll as "ow' are aIIo used in the manufld1lt'e of
,...,..
_ _ - . materials. ...... fibrce . . tIleD nady for .".,... into

,.,.. or.,
......,. The IGIII"';' )VII is . . _po wet to aM very lee

IOIt.,..at.......
Ie lanD ~ ,.... MWtIle fabric ... a.en we-. it
may be bIe..... ."......
fabric, bid . . . . . . _......
to die cJteaper wrietie8 of

The MturaI CGIoer of ..... \III.I:'B fro. a dart Ire)' to a yeIIowWl

pey. u.. it ~ ia d8Ireat ..... of bIea, 'full', filaif' bIead1'
ad ........ TJt.iaWri... is deBe by daemical methoda by . . . .
the clotIl on the ...... in the ,IIDshiae. 'l1le more tile dada is lIt.oW
tile more it is It I baed 10 that a piece of.....-hIeacJIed liaea it waaar
thaia ODe . . , ....~ LoagliDeibtes are ..... foIo belterquIitJ
1iDea fabria.1..eaa 'liM' . . give the lustre"\ocly 10 tJpical or
lineD. Short 'to1f are UIed for less .-peII8ivo liaca.
LineD . . . . . . . .~ sIiI'. aocl fabrics made (rom tIaom ....uy
haft more body . . fatrics made from aofter Ab..... _ _ 01 die
natural 8ti1'rleu or the fabric. tiDeD8 wriakJe readily'" .... to he
pressed with each ..,.1iDa. This objodion is owrc:o. . to . . . ca.t
by special fioishea JiveD to linen.

 ..... a......... ., . . . .
or ~ eIaIRd .. a but"', is"" 1'OUIId, IIaoodI and
i-tnaDlllerelllt. Untwisted (mID tIao yanalt ... tile _ ..........
cottoa fibre. The IiDea or but ftbre is COIDpOIed of Jup

----Ii
_rical 'om
or tiny ceBa compadecl topther to form a . . . . . . .
12-36 iodIea in ..,_, ... die . " ..... fII
tuh with a _ .... dtaDDeJ ..... die CIDtIe. TIIit .....
_10 narrow dIat it is haNIy . . . to ClllIIIIIIed eye. 1"Jw taIIe,
is DOt continuout, bot .."..atecI by diete =t joiIIb or
wIIich appcat tIuouPo1at the . . . . of tile . . at lire. Ii
'I'Ilate DOdeI ....... by .......... powtIa or .......
martiqs-Yisible UDder the microecope serve aa a positlto

_ate
of ideatifyina the 8u fibre. Apin each 8u fibre is .u~
8hri1a iDYiaibJe to tile D8bd eye.
eompositioa is the same aa tMt C'A cottoa, aImoIt pare ce1IaloIe
. . . . . .iIc . . . . . . . .
under the microacope, the fibre is cyliaclrbl., ft.IaiIIat. firm,
rouad and tIaD8pUeDt, with aotdaea or aodea at . . . . .
alw it the appearaace Q{ batDIK>o. LiD . ...., ia ......
it eapable of bdoa split both leqtJa-wiae aad acrou.
It ipited the fibre 8&. . up and .,... Jib cottoa.

PIa 1_
_ _ tile mkmIeape (CourteIy. die U-......., --=
Pia ataJt (crOll etNa)
A8n:iad0G)

......... Flo. 1.21

LiMa rabrica ate .-oda. oooJ. url criap to ... toa and .... a
without btcakina or atretoIaina aad do DOt 1010 their _po
natural sloss or abeea. They are resiataat to teariD& 1ab . . .....
01' ao limp.
 LiDea material is hard-wearioa, ...... yay well 6a ,_ it iI 20X
stroIIpr wilen wel).1t never.., . . Jd IOil _ _ ad IloIda
WIlY .... It iI .110 IlOI:IIIIIf .,...-
....b_.,. ;t;
ne
to,__aterial caa crease
tIIiI at if tile
if tie fibre is aoI miDd willa 0*- ftbtea
. it DOt treatecI to dIed~. It c:aa
. . . be IUbject to IIIiIdewr It ~ if ItOred ia cupboard wida
.kot __ pipa ~ tIaMup it or in wood-lillOcl _ _ or c.IaIIU.
n. sf nat . . . . ita wid..... easily. however. (To NIIlOM
coIoatioa waab .. the aonaal _ , uad try in the IUD to bIeada.)
u-
Ta,* aad bed .... .,.... . . lit.clIea ad,.. iIItJia.
r60lll
iDa ad dothiq iacludiq protective cIotJaiDa ..... radioacthity.
ha.adbrdliefs, mail bap, hoeepipe coven and iasulatioa fa telephones
ad teIepIIoae switdl~, puachute "rneuea, IIaJdweiIlt aaik:uel
for air tla1'el ad ftsbins lillll.
TIle t1anad is uaed for stitc:IUn8 aimaft aDd ........,.carriI.Je
up.-
"'.a,.
haUl.
carpeII. SIitcues. Iife..heItI. tarpauIinI. foot.... &ad criebt-

The Abre is . . . up iato .IIIa8J typeI of materiallIIda as jucbba~

c:aa..., double aad tinale damask and stubbed .... IiaeD. Tbere aN
teUund IDitweiPts where ctift'erent etrects are Ii... ill tile weaYia& to
stimulate t~ ~ IM=nioa-boae, and then aN also twill
weaftS IUld \OuDd toodl Ghecb.
,
.If 1'".......
LiDea dlj1Ib in daoiICuD _ ' . . . , than any otIIer fabdc. "0\ the
.ctoch and if smead . . . . . , . oCwater are left OIl tJaee.tace1t is
BOt . . . of linea. UIiea oJotIa lias an irrepJar tIlicbDills of sinaJe
tlIreIda (dubs) whWl "cIIIncteriatie of its fibre. ,
'. F Iud.
Oiw ..... prompt _ _ _.. sna ki... dae ~ for a IIaort time
then waabia& aad iron ia the .... way. Separate ftitt rr. GOIoarecI
IineDa ad to maintain the fraU of ~ . . . 'In good

cJcterJad by IIUd 01' _dlIDe and tile water cu_

IOaP in baad-hot IGft wa&er. WIdte Iiaea may be 1WIIIIeItwith soap or
of aay tempera-
ture up to boiliq point. bbtIiaa is ._., oeoea.ry. RiDae thorouably
........ tile . . . ardd.e to its natta11ize ... shape. Iroe' ....
dI . . . damp widl.laot Jroa _ dao ....... _ for eoJOUI'Cd
"'a-). -r;
26
 8pocial ~ such at damuJ; tabJe.cIotJas roY CIIlCe ....

..,.._..............
a cardboard cyJiIIdet or Itift' jJlper. 0tIler . . . . . . . . be
t1attecl aJaelvea to allow air to cimIIate.

dJ1fereace fa tfae QQIt of IiIIea aad COUOD ... lid ,.

requeet8 for ,..,... tau fIIat will . . . tJao ideatiiGatiaa ~

tearbw teat is fJae mOlt

LiaeIl, whee tom, IIlowa
com..., acecpteII . . . . . . . . .
.0Iaf ........ ad _ ....
with . . . ,..ueI to each otber.cooa.' II with tho .....
bnaIHib curIiq. ............ or cottoa. Liaea .. ada
than eottoD and aivea a duller 1OUDd.
Boll a portion in a stroq 8Olutioll of sulphuric .act ror 2 or :4
linen is Dot deatroyed bat cottoD is.
Boll in. stroBl sohitioIr of CQIIIIDOJI salt .... water . , nd ...
Itau. a pey ash fa left; if cottoa. a bIaet ash.
However, the molt posith'e tell forc::otloD ia..a Jiaea fa1ldc fa ....
.,.:opic test. TIle ~ ItIaiPt Dreea_ea'iil'...........
the twisted cotton fibre Wlder aa onIaary microIcofe.. .....
Cotton, however, be 11leI'CedIed, .1lumbet of.bRs wI111eOC1 to be
rder to lad ItJIDe wJdcl haveeacapect ~
cottoD is mercerised, the fibres UDtwist but tMre wiD ...,.
found a proportiOD which have romaiaed 1ID8fI'ected.

MINOa VEGETABU IUDS

JUTB
is the secoad most widely 1IMICI . . . .ble fibR, exceeded ~ by
The DaIIle of this plaDt is cIcIive4 ftom die IDdiaD word "that'
meaDS 'to be entaqIod', probably reterriDa to ~.....,
which readiIr . . &opther.

_leat times. '!be early Sansbit writiDp apcat or,.

n. ftID ... been 1IIed ia IDcIia at bIIIIdicIaft materiaJ tiace W4'J
or tate ...
hoaIehoId plant, aeniceabJe both u pot berb aad .. a lin.

is often caI1ed 'Calcutta ~'f but it oaly recei... tM __

PncticaIIy ad ottho .tate Ibn II ~ IalI1dl, ..,.,

tile total world prodacdOJl iI ill ...... Today, the ~ ~
Jet.
tho faet dlat mOlt of dlia I1xe eaten iato CODIIIIIl'ce . . . .
that pod. Jute i8 ~ ftodl.;sat ~, C91L1Jrir.
 jute has spread to other sections of 1DcIia, 81 the chief produciaa
c:atre ... lODe to PUi&1aD after the padition of 1Ddia. Brazil is &lao
...... alUQCeSl(al atteaIpt CO grow j1do.
TIle ....
Jute is an annual plant arowiDa from 5 to 10 feet hillL It bas a c:,tiD-
drical I&aJk as dUct as a ...'. 8qer. 1bae are DO bIaac8es except
. . . die top. The p"" are .,on not oaJy for the fibee, but abo for
the leaves, which, aspted before, are used as a pot herb.
'Ibe crop is ready, or cuUiaa wbeD the Bowen beain to fade. If
........ earlier, abe fibre is weak; if left uOOI the aoed is ripe. the
fibre, altIlouP stroaaer, iI COBMr uad Iacb the chuacteristic lustre.
TM beat fibre is KICUl'ed by hand-strippiDJ, when each stalk is peeled
aeparately.
'I1Ie lin
'I1Ie Ibre consists of bundl. cella with sllarply 4e6oed poiygoaal
outlines. The individual baSt teUS of tile jute are 'Vel)' fiDe _ ID1Idl
IIIoIter tluua 8u ibres. The best quality of jute &Wit ... dear yeUo-
wiIh cdoar with a . . silky 11Istre. It is 10ft aad IDlOOtIa to the t01lCb.
1lte jute fibre is decidedJy I. . moog tbaa 8ax or hemp. It is hiahJy
~ In a ~ atmosphere it may have no more than 6 per cent
of moisture, but in damp oonditioas the moisture may be 81 hiah as
23 per cent.

.....
The plants grow to a height of ten feet, aod are gatJlered just as the
~
umNG. The cheapest metb.oIo( removina the fibres (rom the jute
P\1uIt is to iteep the stems in ItnaIIII or pools until bacterial action
destroys the tissuel in whicJa the fibres are embedded. Great care baa
~ be taken. If over-retted, the fibres are iojured, if insutliciently retted,
the Iibres cannot be handled by the spinner.
IQII'I'BNJNO. lu~ is oatOt&lJy vet)L..Itarsh owing to a low wax coateut
aad aJao to ita lignified aature. For this tIason it __ be softened to
permit the division of tile tiln and allOiubricated. Water and oil are
added to the tlbres, aad ~ are paRed through a -aries of roIIen
uati1 the desired chaqe is obtained.
JUP.uING TIIB YAIlN. The fibra are sent to the carding macIUao

cge....,rramo.
Md JDIIde into 1001 rouad stivers. The&c slivers are drawn out by
a.umber of sJivcn iato ODe. It is thea cleJivered to the

.....
roviDI where it is drawa OJIt to about eisht tiJDei its leoJfh
ad is. . . . a sliPt twist !Wwouad on bo~ It is now ready for

21
 material is luatroUi ad eaa .,. _ _. ,
dJed. late i. UIed mostly for _ . . . . . ._
aad clap pile fabrics. B1eacbe4 jute is alto . . . ..
"'*"" warp ia the so-carled JideIt.tonlJint. 01 late ,....,
t. 'JlOIVeltv fabrics for dress goods have alto bcea .... from
ia conjunction with woollea or cotteil )IUDL It is allO
ill tho ID8IUlfadare of twine, rope aad carpet matiq.

.igh temperat1lle a1ld JUab relative .umi_.

auceptibJe to microbieIoaiatl decay, eapeeiaDy UDder coacti-
I8Ce is apecially
salt water. R.ot-proofiq is accompliahN by the use ofiasolu-
_ ilet:ltica which are fixed on or within the fabric. Miaeral aaItI,
metallic compoandl and pbenoHc cieri_tea are alllOltl tile
used for this purpose. Today, jute it . . . water-railtaDt
_1Jl'Oji)f.. It is also converUd into a woo, lib tibre by treatmeat
la~1C aocIa. (See chapter on Yarn Construction)

c:aa be distinguished from linen or cotton if tile fibres are staiDed

iodine, and then conceaUated sulphuric acid ... aJycerlne are
lute fibres remain yellow, but cotton a_ liDIIt tara blue.

HEMP

was very much in vogue aIDODI the tmdeat Aaiatics long before
birth of Christ. It was used for carpets, tapestry, ropes, ..lea of
and even trying their letters which were carved on wood. for
was Dot blown tIleD. Some of tIaese antiquities were brovPI
IDdia by Sir ADriel SteiB duriIla his expedition to the Ileart or Asia
are DOW exhibited ia the ArchaeolOlical M _ in DeW.
Hemp is grown chiely in the Pbilippine Islands, ChD, Maieo,
I lt.ussiia. the West Indies and India. The Manila variety is white.
In India, Deccan hemp is Jl"own both as a crop and as a w,e
.....u..
~, h is cultivated largely ia Mabarashtra-Deccan and CarDa-
1LK7"'_IJIU Madras. It grows best in the alluvial soils of North Gujarat
ill medium black soils.
'fte like
The Abre is IUltroQS and Us the microscopic nodes aad jointa of
linea, but the central canal is wider; the cells are blunt eaded.
M, ,....
'l1Ie ....uf'adure procesa of Hemp it j1llt the .... as that of 8u.
(See page 22)

 String. of hem,

-=t!:.:
--=
-- _4_
-:- ..,-
m

PIG. 1.22 Doa~ . . . tableca Ute thae . . . aeneraJIy 1IIOd for oIicIaI
CCJIftIIIODdeac in Ccatral AlIa (where Sir Aariel Stein foaacl
dda oumpIe) add in Nonhem IDcUa in tile first to tbe third

of....,
ceatadei. 'Ibe tablets are about IS inc:bes lon, and fasteaed
.,...... with ......

u..
'BeiDa ItrQDpI' ..... linea or j..
it is ideal for makiq twine, ropes.
cables, carpets. amvas, ship corda. and sailclodl, as it is not
wcateaed Of rotted by water. Today, even fine fabrics are made from
hemp.

ltamie is another veptable fibre from aettlea !!OWD ehiefty ill

India, China aad ill out other neiJhbourins coUlltiWs. lbe Chinese
ftriety is oflea JaaOWD as 'Chiaa SJ'08S' or Rhea.
TIle hie... fibre is . . . silky aad atrons. This mates it suitable
for weaviDa into fiae tat.Jo..liDea. like uay-clotbs, table cloths, _ptias.
. . It.amiD .... __y properties. IIiJdar to tJaoso 01 Un.. A ....

...... will
10
sti6a"""
. . . . . 01 pill ia dto . . . . . . . . RardIia. unnoelS.ry as die
if iro1Ied damp.
 ......., oflUliDtbIt _ _ 1& . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ill
wIaea ia CCIdaCt with water...... II __ . .dJa
:'.4I0Il..,.. IlGIdiaI water to. .
of 28 pel' coat of ita dry
...... OOUeDJaoWs water
uteIIt f:6 26 peroea Yore-
r,=illlIfIIIad of todai ICIIBaIdl
_do ...,. IInI,ramie
to fO per oeat stroapr wIleD
_ _ dry. h drie8 more
tbaa doea tax or cottoa.
... the additioaaI achant
of beins UDSbrfabbie and o(
bigbJy resiltaat to mildew aa
as to the attack of micro-
IaaiIDll that cause rot.

lib Jiaea, js a but fibre.

fibre is . . up of coJIs about
Iada iD Jenath and the wlole
tau ~ martiDp.lt
he IIIlCINty ill appearuu:e~ .
makes stroo& IuItroua fabric.
is also well adapted (or use
certain types of weariDs apparel,
aa light-weight SWDIDer suits.
blende4 'Wi1hrayon, colton &ad
to make attractive new fibres.

to linen (See under Linea). Flo. 1.23 Tbe 1t.amIo PJaot

SONN

plant is a _dye of BOUt""'' ' ddeIy Iadia. ,.... an two

31
varieties-Bhadoi San and Rabi San. I he tormer IS plantea m May
and June and harvested in October and November, and the latter,
which is the better variety is planted in October and November and
harvested in February and March.
In order to secure the hest grade of fibres, the plants are cut when
they arc in flower. They are exposed for 36 hours, and then retted in
water for three to four days and fibres are immediately stripped off
owing to their tendency to rot. They arc then dried and sorted.
Sunn is better in quality than jute, being lighter in colour and
having greater tensile strength. It contains 80 per cent cellulose as
against 64 per cent cellulose in jute.
Sun" is used for fishnets, twines, rug yarns, sacking fabrics and in
papeflnnking.

ABACA OR MANILA

This plant is a native of Ihe Philippine Islands. It is cultivated in the

Philippine Islands on a large scale. It is also grown in Sumatra and
Borneo. It is planted clear of other trees and ten fect apart each way.
It is perennial and grows to a height of 9 to 10 feet. A single plant
. yields about I lb. of fibre. The fibre is white and lustrous in appea-
rance, light and hard, and easily separable. It has good tensile strength
and great durability. The cellulose content is 64 to 65 per cent. It is
used in th<;,rnanufacture.of rope and heavy cordage.

SISAL

Sisal is 'grown on large plantations in East and West Africa, the East
India, Java and Mexico. The plant is triennial. The leaves grow from
the base of the plant, and each leaf is cut by hand close to the ground.
The leaves arc beaten by hand and fibres removed. The fibres are
washed simultaneously with scraping. It contains 72 per cent cellulose
and 14 to 15 per cent lignin. It rots readily in salt water. Its principal
use is in the manufacture of commercial tying twines, ropes and cords.
It can be admixed with cotton to alter the quality and price of the
rope.

COIR

Coil' is obtained from the shell of the cocoanut. The fibres are about
10 inches long. Kerala and Ceylon are the home and centres of coir
32
 coeouut Imab are SGfteeed . . .. ,... ~ia ....water
is separated from the t .... " ....... wta. atoM,
IJ.W41JUU
with a steel comb and tbea dried. Pi... an claaapct iato
wbidl eordap and coane c10tbs are ~ . . fnIm
briatlea for bJ:us1Ia are . . .
baa a ..taraI dIDity tow......... Coir . . . a
tbre. shOWI mote . . . . . . . . . . t.owar. . . . coloun; av.d
ldIiIDt coknIn .-e obtai_ wheD.1IIre it d,.t wida . .
Basic eoIoan are DOt .bIe tID taDIiPt. Bw:a . . . dIoy c:aa
PIltied to coif ibre bauae . . use of d)1Id c:oir . . wiD
CODfiaed to indoor purposea or houIes &lid bunpknn.

RAYON (CELLULOSIC MANMAD1! RBU)

not iIM8ile a modera world witilout ayDthetic tMtiIes.

w....._. at synIbIlic fibres... they are more IooeeIy bewD. were
Ibis century. TIae commerdal prodactiOll d ..y. sBot. . . . .t
-.olC!ll'than dovt fony..eigllt yean. It bkada . . widt aU olbIr
Rayou are claued .. n,eaerated coil. . fibres. Yet wItJain
time, rayoa-or 'arti6cia1 . '... it waa oriaiaaIIY ........a-
.ItIIIK'OIIlO intriDIic part of CYel'Jday ... It ... bJoaPt to .....y
IDdarcl. . IUX1U1. 0...,. _joyed ooly by a few.
main object fa .....racturin. na10D wu t.o JKOrido a dleap
for alit. Softneas. oootn., I...... iaweiPt ... ataIdive

IillluiSh silt from rayon unIeu abe bas a I:aowW&e

the fiIIt time ia the WOItd bamboo aDd ~ .... beta
or.
[ltealranc:e, all count for the popttIarity of I&JOL So clowdy is the
Illation' done that many an lDdiaa . .wife is !lOt able to
1aUer.

......tnllhr used for the III8D'Dfaet.-e of ..yen . . . woocI pulp.

fint rayon factory was started in 1946 ia Kemla. &ace then
factories have been started in I"ldia.

tbe varieties of rayon are of vCletabJe origin and are derived from
ceBulose base. There arc four main proccdurea by which celJuIoIe is
IaJUfoniDed into nayoD. These are :
(a) the nitro-coUuIoIo method;.
(It) the cupram.oailllP mtlhod;
(0) the ~l method;
(4) tile GClIuIoae . . . . ___
The pnefal principles of rayua yUa piOd_ _ iIlMlve .......
Ikpdcf and . . forciDs it ...... tile . . hOIeI of.jet. a.e
53
.................
ue.1aowYer. certain ~ ad . . Pte eacJa type of yam
."..,...,. ctistiae:t from . . odaen.

eop1l1e techaicI8e
.... hote _ . .
=.n..
AD proe .._ for pr~ ra,OIII IIaw thiI ill coaM'OIl dIM tilly
of fon:iDJ. stictJ laid tbIODah a
... dfread to obtaiD fDa...... We_y
say, therefore,~"'of tile IdIponaat ........ ia.,.,.. caa be
acooaatrld fot tile metlaocI of treatiaB tile ce1I8Ioee raw _ ......
The 'fiIcoIe COIMIIa tile eeIluIOM by tile . . . . 01.......
bHuJpWe, wIl4nas it II copper t1dpJIate aacI amIDOIlia &bat are tile
dIImical aaeata used ill the cuprammooiuJD method. Ia the acetate
medaod tile purified cellulose is treated witJl a mixture of acetic acid
aad the acetic _ydride.
. , . HI'J'ItOCBU.DLO I8l11IOO was the ftrst to be used few the pro-
daetioD of rayon tabrbt Thil .... stutecl by Coal HiJja~ Cbanton-
net ia 1184 Ja Frace. 'lie fibre j, Pl'ocJuced fJ'Olll 00UQa Jiaaen (Illort
IIapW oettoe). wIricb tMMed willa. mixtImt of JIllpIuIdc ... aiIric
adds, procIace~OIe. The iDlammabie . . . . . . . . produced
is dis8oIed in sp{rita, ancI the solution is (0I'QId thnMIatt tiI9,... iat.o
tile air. 1he sow. napoqtea lea.... iDe tInuI. Ja t1Iia fona dle
fibre is hiPIY illflammable, 10 it is dalitratod aad nacIenICI DOIl-
-'mBNlbJe. This method is little UBeCI today owiaa to the expease.
T8BCDftAIMMOII ftOCIIS8 was fint . . . ill Germaay iB 1891.
Cottoa ....,. or wood". are _ted with..me I8da ~oOud
Iteeped ia cold saturatea copper IIIIpbate soIufioa. It is Iq.... __
da.. diIIOIved in Itroq' aqaeou alDlDOllia to am capIUI1DODi1I\D
8Ohado8. The ~ ia fOl6d throuaIa ftae jets iato dil_ adcI to
Jive tIinIdI wIaich _, ." IIt1'dICIIed mto fiDe . . . Tbia IaJGO "0Ie1y
RICJ8bIII silt. ThI Americaa Bembe,. CorporatJon is a epocia8st in
tile ~ of theae rayoas.
MaM6acWe., ..... ,..
11ae IICCOmpuyiaa dmwilla (FII. 1.24) depicts the molt importaat
&tepa in the IDaIl1Ifacture of C1lprUIIDOIlium ceJluloae yams by the
. . . . . . JlretcJHpiuina process.
1. Raw material used for the produdi01l
IintetI or wood pulp. COtton IiIIteft fotmerIJ
or,.,.JDat be cotton
tappIiecI the chief source
of ceDuJoee 1IIecI in tile prodactiOa ofOlPf....8MJ8Nm celInIose yams

_w
by the ....... atntcIHpiaiII& ~ G4toa URn are tJae6De,
. . . . . . . . . totlaecottaa,.d .... tIae . . . . . . beeD
. . . . . . . . . . . .Sfr.-;;2\:111l/ . . . . . . . . . . . , . . tile tOUon
.... "171ft "'~".t"'''''.. t. . . . . . Iato..,.,...
54
 ." diIIoI..,
_1lOIal1Ul eeIIaIMo .,....., IIIIIDdoa ia MD ' I I. . . . ill a
die GdIII.... II .............. fa
8011111. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .
_ ....... tIIea ....... ba a ..... titer. TIle pm,
....... ofa clam.,...
coIoar aad tltec ..,.et

IOIadOIl thea .,... throuP --. badll1I".y

of ....
eJbUoe . . . which call1e8 ooquIItJoa or _IIaDieafa
the spinaeret.

Flo. 1.24 ............ 01 ...... YII'D (CcJuaWr. A...- ......

CoJpoadbI, U.I.A.)

..,... .... r--.Tbe ..... ,.... .,.

. . . . . . at die . . . . or
.rd.
Tbia . . depicts dao atmtdHpiDDIDI a........... the . . .
IOlutioa is fORed t1amaP tile compua1ive1y Jarat= .... "
....... wIdda is ittediototlle . . . . . . 8,c..,.'
tile oy......... ., ....
Ii..... ..,.,
d.-,
tile ........ n. ... 111 ............... ......
.,..a............ .,...,.. . . . . . . . ~ ..... "
ftIameIIts . . ro dal . . . . . . .' .............. oI. .. . . .,
 Co) The lofty spruce trees on 'tam lIopes are felled.
(6) Spruce lop are I'Qc:ed to wo04 pulp aDd pari6ed for coUaI
bue..
(e) 1'IIis woocLpulp is treated wida eauItic aoda to form
ceIlnlose.
(4) TIIis is miDd with.,._ "."pJUde to (01'111 ceIIuJose IIIIltlra
which is ctis80md .. ___.UItie IOIda aoIatioD. A recfdisIa
oranp
aDdis
% ..is formed, w\ich after 8lteriD.ud aaeinI tbic'_
~
(~) Thia is f~ tIlrouah noaIea into a eoapIatiq liquid
of sulphD acid ad 1Odium-l8lpMte.
(n Many or the fiae ......ts are draWD toptJaer to form the l1I1
tbreada or yam for textile milia.
TBB ~A1'I! PIOCIISS. Tbia procosa baa been co
eiaUy developed siace 1'18 althoqh it was fint diIcoYered about
a ceattuy earlier.
TJae ....te siJb diJf from tJae otIaer duw meatioaed above,
the subttanceforminathe ftlarnent is not a ~formofc:euUlol~
but is a c:ompouad of c:eIIaloee and acetic add-ceuu1oee IICCtate.
Wood palp 01' cotton IiaIers whoa treated ..... acetic aDlIydride
UDder suita'* CODditions are converted iato celJuloee acetate. This .
washed and dried and tben diuolvect in acetoDe. It is (orad throqb
he orifices and solidified by evaporation in. warm chamber or
~ bath. (See ~ 1.26) (See alSo thermoplastic fibres.)

lin ,
Uat.H.ied f ..om tile yarn. ~ rayon fibre appears heavier, stift'er and
... . . , tJtaD dbaad ..... more _Jy.
WheIl iJllitetf. rayon burns quickly with a &are lib cottoa, melts
and ruaa into a black homy bead. It gives out an odour Ute that 0
barnt strina or paper and leaves a little are)' ash.

I.a..............
see.. throuah a microacope the fibre is smooth and rouaded. It lias
cJutracteristic martiDp, whida vary accordiDt to tile fJ'OCeS8.
Cll ......... efdleiln

.....
IWereDQO to die mandlctariDa proceu baa shown dlat the fibre COD-
aiata ~ ~ except ill the caao ofacetate rayon whoa it is cellulose

OII.In' _tl. I
. . . 81 thoae of cotton. The followiDa poiatl
" . , aN pacnIIy .,....,
JIlU8t, howowr, 110 temeIlbend.
38
MydrolPi.
(I)
 . ._ rayOD to sucIt .. atat tJaat peat cafe II _I a ,.,

teariBI or abe. . . . dariIta .*18, pnlGIII. WIlla rayOIl

howeftr, it competely repiDa iti stnDath. VbeoIe is
wilen wet _1WOIIeD.
tIaorefore should be POided whoa 'ft.IIUq ftYOIl, u it it
holes or stretch the fabric fir aadla wq u to pcnDa-
its shape.
I'DISUU may weaken or split the fibre.
" " ___YVII may be JIued or the ftbre cJamaaed ." esoesa Mat. 111e

of a hot iron will at once cause the rayon to perWI, dIaoa-

a dry IuItroaI fabric into a treacly substauce wbida ......
upon cooHDa
weaten rayon, aad 80 ardcIes may perish
1'0 UOBT tcDdi to
nmUlin in continual suaalrine, 0.1., curtalJta _ .... 011 a

.,.
d,...
rayou are easily dyed in a wide mae of CIDttoD dytetdi,

tilt tit.' ...

rayolll dye oDly with their own spedal

die lin
fabrics are composed of a mixture of textile fibt'ea. Oftea it is
to distinaa'" between the various typea of rayOlllo Ia QI'dor
the c:ompolitioa, quicW method it to bum. piece of it
dueads, if a miJ.ture. This will help to Jhow whedter the 8bna
are animal fibrea or cellulose fibres.

HIGH PERFORMANCB VISCOSE RAYONS

Performance Rayons have been made betweea successive im-

WelDeD'1S 011 the raw materials aad the productioa tecbolOlY of
viscose rayoDS. The most important improvemeat relates to an
in the toasile strenath of the rayoa.
lIJII_fDII.
poJynosic fibre is an improved type of Yiscoae rayon produc:ed
maintaiuiaR hiaher DP to the wlue of S)O.1QO "'" obCaWaa a
ICIOliibrillar Itnlcture to mate tho llnamore litO ooUoa. CompIred
rea*r . . . Pf4*llea . . . YiIOOIity'" it . . . lito &
41
 coapJatiq bath of lower h)'droaea ~ IdiYity. . . . . . _ .......
ad ~tioaallo_1tn*hiaI o(~ ""h
fibre teau1ts wit.Il low we-
".1IiPlY
onIIW., 'lJIe ~.I1nJa.isaed
CIIiteI

leaath.l......
li.
to pOIIIeII the . . . . .~
.. "*- ... reaardiIIa _ . . , or
size, poteudaI . . . . . aloaa witIl . . . . .
dfmensioaal .......,. 0WJd wetskeqth. criaper ad loftier IIaIldIe
n_ _ tIIat ,,__ ....
Pu,"'fII ~ZI lin
TIle JlI9*8l ....... of polYJlQSK:a cloee1y resemble tIaoae fI/ cottoa
. . . . . . ~ 01_ streactJa dote to tboee or ~ aft
aIbIi trfatQae.llit. They do not have dofects of vi8coae -JOB aa4 do
not become roup even after repeated washiDa ud . - cottoa , . ,
do DOt tum yellow after prolonaed usqe. ~ ...... Jaave a
round ctqII sectioa aDd silty lustre.
PoIyJIOIic fi.". ate uteasiYeJy used for bJeadiBg wida 0GU0It, wool,
silt IDd with all other~ fibres. The bIeQds of . . . . . am
luxurious haDd comfi the weak and easy proceuiq ia . . mWs.
Because of tIle&e .advaataaes they are beioa i~ .-l in
apparel, home t)niahinI fabrics aDd ill Jmitted fabrictu w.u.1Iiah
tIIIICitJ .yoa ,.,a is usecl fOl' the produccioe or tyN COld, ......,.
belts, fan belts, ~ fiIhiDs line&f sewiq threads, ,.,. cordap.
They are allO used for coated fabrics for ramwear, iDIata.Ne rafts,
tarpauliu, flexible resenoin. The IDdiaD aea-fislIiq iDduItry DOW
. . . . . of hiP teIiacitY fAyOB aad ~ Drea wbJda ate much
stroaaertlata the tmltioDaI type ektiaa ~ oeoammes
wIthia the . . . . iDdu6trt. 'MaDmade ibres a )'8lDI ha" Jadutrial.
hoaIeIIoIct _ ctereace UIIeS"" Q ill paracImte r.btb. atdibaJtistic
cloth for body'arJDOUf in ~e ael oth* itemI.
DeVelop..-. in ...... rayon exports haw beea CODSidorabit sigDi-
Iamt. Ray-. . .. . , embroidered and other spedality velwts, rayon
pile ad . . . fabrics an hdiDa a ,004 adret abroacl
A wicJc variety of rayon rabrica are beiDa aported from India. 1'0
meetioD a few: 'J'My are:
p;I.meot ~ Brocade, crepe.:perpt.te. satin. sbirtiDl. suitiq,
....., taretta. tapestry, twiJ,l wlvetr
SpuD rayoo: Shirting. s'hMtiq, 81JitiDa, _p.
Mixed rayGll fabrics: SpuD rayon eottoamixed ~ rayon nylon
auitiD& mixed ahirtiDJ and sareo material.

USIC 1'&4'111J1BS OP C&JAJI,OSB

The . . . mataiaI of~ .... II ceIluleae. CDaIIa ...
JIB. fa,.
42
_0DIy uocL The leu roG1III08Iy . . . . . . . . . iIaI ....
IUIJe. AD caUuIoee fibreI llaye riIIIiIIIr
wriatiou ill . . . . botwoca .......... ia ....,.
,..,,.deI ..

.....
Fat!dca ...
.PIIJrb
cool'. __
wdatIe..._
.... ........._ow,.-
AtIIIor1'JI
:
..,. fell
..........
........._ ....
_ '. . . . . . . . 01 . . . . .
.... .. ..... wtda ......, IIot
_<ml)
Pabrb .................. ......

...........
. . . . ..,.. DOt . . . . , ....... b1

............ '
Pnit ........ _ . . . . . '

A. . . , . . . . . , .........
.......
...,

...... ar tv " .......... _ _..

Y- CI8 be.....
*-14. . . . . . _ ....... . .

aaua.. ...............,. . ....,

~ ,AI'

. . . . . . .1.......... . . , , . . . . , . . .

, -
 ~HAPTBR2

Animal Fibres

WOOL--=-' BE WONDER FIBRE

AIIdIt...,
III cold coUDtries wool probably wu the fust textile to- be made into
........ k ... lirst wora ia the form of. skin or pelt, later the
fabric:l were DBtted 01' ftilted.
Ala iD~ story is sometimes told of the shepherd lad who
twisted to&cther a strand of wool fibres to bind around his buadle of
...... 'J1aia" IaicI to be . . -';.niD8 of the fOftll&tioa of short Ii. .
into yarns from which cloftl could be woven.
HiBtOJIIhows quite clearly tbat Mesopotamia was the birthplace of
Wool. BagIiab histDrians teD "" tIIat the early Romans encourapd
sheep fatmiaa .. EqlaD4 and in A.D. 80 iutrocluced wool weavUak in
EqIand. Soon the ~ wooUea cloths pined reputation far and
wide. The cloth sent to the Romaa Emperors was said to be so fine
that it was comparable to. spider's web". I

Woollen Kashmir aba,,1s seem to be as oIcl as the Epics of India.

Tr8ditioa has it that whea Krishna WIlt to the K.Ul1II as a deleaate
from the Pandavaa, the preseatl of DhJituuhtra to him included ten
tbOUlaDd shaw). of XIIhmir. Martin. describiq jadia's greatDcss,
writes, "1be aossamer mush or Dac:ca acI ....... shan of
Kaahmir aclomed the proudest bea.utipa at tho courtl of Caeat".
In aacleat Jadia, cottoa waa not known to Vedic people, but wool
was aa important material FiDe wool was obtained from the ewes of
GIIndhara aad the reafoa in which tile river Ravi (tile tn'&atary of
tho River Iadus) ~QJD thU wool blanbts (tambala), Dh. . .
(cIatIa) \'IIriety at doth and (SuDdhyavah) bJeecllcld wooIJea
 DIUlUfactured. It is laid til theva...... ...
tho people of Dabban abd Pudr. , , .__ YlICIIaWhiIa
of. . BIIoj witJa woos. dada emfttoidend wJda toW;
dae

_rIrU brouaJat woo11ea cloth or _0118 ..... - .... etwed

wool of tile sIIeep and the ....., aoat and hair of tile. . ..
~ ia a. .. Valhib (Valhika .... tM
IMtm tile Sid ad Sadtt).
"lIOPte or the IDdns ValJey . . . die . . . milliE i B.c. ...
their WIlDer &QtiJes aDd eottoo for . . . . . . . . . . . No
of tbia .,. have beea "_wd for UI, . . . . . . .ctldIe _ _
tile BOil 01 the Valley. Bowewr. die _ _ ....... tile
IDIIcleat proof that ..........,_ and llaad-wowa . . . . _ .
thea. Piaure 2.1 a __ draped with a ~.w1'"

widt .... ciIdea, tile .e.rion of wIaich ... tiled wi.

.. over wida a dedp of trefoila in reIibr. iatatpeaild ......
ted

............. 111._*' ............

MotieIdo
PIG. 2.1 ' ............... tband
,._,
IJero (3OOO-2OOe B.c.) .....
It ....
46
 The MoP.1 tiap, l'e8OWIIed ia IMiaa "tory as lown ad patroas
of art. ftC01II8pd the iaduatIy of . . . . . . &ad laW It a .....t
Rim.... DuriDa Attwr-a:tliDe _ _ --beiDa IIIIt a. 'f8IuahIe . .
to tiap of ~ to.. . , the eacl of tile ~ ceatury. tile
"8IInDir shawls had ,.. IDIII'bt ill IDdia. Penia. At.......,
....... aod Europe. So poP.uIIr . . the ahawl ia Europe that BqIead

stnack linn blow to ..., ill'"..

souPt to IIaift the shawl ~ from JCuJuair to PaWey. " .
by the eacl oftllo alatelath
ceDtuIJ'. ICashmi....... (in Barope) beca1Ile a JDOJUry of the pe&
T..,. rona. Iy, u.e
WCIOIIea iDduatry ia JCaahmir is . . . , com-

alia.
iDI iato its OWII.~ the popuiar woollen . . . are dlo ,........
both embroidered aDd WOWIl (puhm is the UDder Ieeco of the
cuJuncn pat). the 'shahtus. die 'pw.' (a tiad ofemIJroidertd carpet
l1li). the woo. . . . . . . aDd 1obis. ad the . . . . . . (~
red IeIt low rull). Tbowaads of ........ from ICt.. ... drut-
sets from Mysore are ezpprted to the U.S.A............. fONip
excbaae .,
At present the chief wool manufacturina ~.~ Australia.
New Zeala'" ... Briria Islet, SaatIa AJDerica ~~ A~ Not
omy wool'"
makiaa wooDea Mdc&. 80_ breeds of"
~Jaair ftoamd.e camel. 10M "'1~ is used (or
~ wool that is
abort ad . . ._ . . . . . ,we 10q-srapJe ....... has a smooth,
silky, appe8IHlOI.

V. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......
All wools are c'. sailed UDder foar aeaeral ~ or Inc. medium.
Ioq .... carpet wooIL
111MB WOOlS. fte ariDo."" it tile oats....., example wJlich
suppliei this ('Jpe ofwoot. Piae wools my 'Y8I'J fit ...... from Ii to
5 inches. IkIIIIaj wocft Doted for its qulity ad ....... it lot from
moriaosheep.
It is intereldat to Dote that the 8nt .mao sIleep tIaat were taba
to Australia . . . ft'om tile SIa~ Bibaer in IDcIia.
MIORJII 'WOCU TIaeto are turaiiJIed by . . Inedt as OIford,
SbropshiIe, Rampeltire. SdoIt aacI-ooaat. " . . .... are valued
for mattOD u . . q for _Iiea\'y Ieece.
fIDeaess~ " 21 to 6 . . . . 1....
TIle" are ofmedlum

Sbet1and . . . . :eo. ..., __ ill tile .8betI kland, Jaas a

special use fA _,.. . W domea&ic .......
LONG woou..- I.atse iheep . . . lAMa)", CoUwoNs. Leicester,
"omaey mania prodacle 1oD8, 8tJoD8. lustrous wool. The Abre Jeaath
.... flO18. 5 or (; ~ a a1aaey iDanIl to 10 or 0e8 IS iI_es
bCotlwoldL
41
 1VOOI& This type Yariea in Jeaada froJil _rt u I iBch
as 15 iDcJIes. Streaath aDd reaiIieace . . its . . . . . To Jet
of properdee IeVel'alIftlClea aN _tty t'n III I Ja ..,.
1'IIeIe woola are lOt from YIIioa$ ctOII-hreeds..

world'. rarest. fiDest and most cos.tly Ibm, COJIlIDOI'CiaIJ known

speciality fibres arc cot from cettaiD anima. which ...OW 1011&
hair. These auimaI. . . the Wmu. ClShaaere pt, ~f
alpaca, aoaora-pt aDd aqom rabbit. 1bey are J,IOted bG'e
cxder of their rarity ad cost.

1'IE VlCUMA.

CUleIidao. It yields w_
The vievoa is the .maIIest species of tile South Amcric=aa baIIda of
is tho_t to be 1UINIt . . . . . . . fabric
blown to maD. Tho hoato of dle vicuaa iain . . . . . . . . . . .1Ilt
tho Andel, mostly ill Pem. SiIMo dl:iJ smaIl..-... ja very wiJ4, it
to be llunted to death in order w Gbtaia__ .... The", was
1aIet~1Kl with emuctioa tb.rouah -.atoll lilliea 'GIWl ... Pen. .
~mUI'" toot IM8SUrU for dle ~ Qf, tIMee DUe . . . . .
ODly . . . . . . . . .ber or .... ui-lecaa bID IdJJed "..,.,,ja
to keep . , the 1lVIIIericaI _ _ ~tIae........... . . . .
whidl may require forty . . . . isOQ)ltJy a1I4 ...........,......
",
u'
 small tJru die llama. Ita Ieece, taU and rort. ,rows
leaph or 12 or more iDCW. Ita cldef Uie )I tOt pile-

GOAT
Al1Iota a4t bait is known &1 mobatr. ThiI goat was oriaiaall1
m m
Al\pm Asia-Mieor. bat DOW the aaiIIlII is bred drieIy iD
and California. It sives the IODS. lustroaa. ... clean . . .

PIG. 2.."""""
which are so valuable in pile-fabrics lor blending. Moflail'is somowftat
slippery beauIse the fibre tiu no deep ..-ratio.... It also **'
the two
quatities of wool. viz, the ututaI crimp and the ability to felt. Mohair
fibre dyes readily .... reta;n~ them well.
ANGOI.A~
This breed or domestica~ed ratpbits bas soft, silky bair, which is ex-
tensively m~.~ wool to give novelty effects, or with ,...... which
are used for ~ baby clothes, etc.
The sheep ~ in the tropical countries is less scaly curly and
more rigid thut that of temperate countries aDd becomes in fact hardly
comparable from tile hair of geats.
TIle ....... teaqe ....... , . . . .
The ,reat bult of In.' wooDen yarn is baDd-apun. In the yiUages
is done by peasants wbp" duiag the dry season when they are
to work on the land. . . . to spinni1lc ucl weaviq to prtWide C101:.Iles.
blaDteta and rap for their own use aDd for ... in the market
supplement their small iDeQmes. 1bc demand fcfr -.1 cloth is &eallOIMdj
Wool is used all the year t'01ind in the extreme north, and for most
the year in the billy country or Assam and Bengal. Further south
in Central India, wool is use4 mainly as a coverina at night.
About 75% of the woollen handloom industry is concentrated
Uttar .Pradesh, Punjab. :Kashmir and Rajasthan. In the plaias of
West. SfUth and ast\ tho local wool is used foe maida, bJanVb
kumblies drugets and coarse carpets. The blankets are frequeatly
in the. loom state. As they CODtain a certain amount of ,re&Se
they
used as water-proof ca~ the rainy season. In Madras and
sJopts of the Western Ghats where the WO()J is coarso and baitY.
finished clotlt resembles hessian. but in Uttar Pradesh, Punjab

Flo. 2.r' ilaod toofI UIed fa cottaae iDduItries in tbe

,..".,...ot...-ols
52
 where the wool is good, the ftDished fabrics almost resemble
_:u!IR from Boataad.

AND SOItTING
with wool .. amded and sorted. Sortiq fa the proce88 of
up the fteece into disdllCt quaJitiea. Tbia wry ~ WOIt
macIliDes ill tho weatem c:ountriel. Ia tbo ID6ia
the . . . ato opened out 0II1Ol'1iq ..w.:
cotta.
It ..... 18cf
ill aoc:ordance with tile purpose for wIdcIa . , are to be
for carpets, blaubts aa4 aood wooIIaa aIc6.
ANDCMDING

_d.
.. IICII blended aod c:atded.
or c:aae, the
..,w.....
Canlioa iJ doae . . .
of wIticb are eoa~ wJda ..... :n.
c:arden are called Piojaria.

aDd clwb are used for the work of drawiAg aDd twiatiDa
. . .",WOO1 sJiver.
AND WEAVING
preparJ'fbe warp yarn a board with a series of upright pegs
.in 1J..sbape is frequently used. The yam II wouad OIl to
pep. 8CQOl'dina to the leDath requited and this is repeated
the de&ired number or warp ends is obtaiaed. In tIio c:aae of
(bmblies). there are usually 10 to 12 to aa inch. Whea die
muoft!d ftom tile .,.. tile tIuads aro arraagecI to .... the
width and are thea placed 011 a trestIe. After they haft beeD
tiaht. theJ are brushed with _ made from crashed tamariad
_tet.
'boiled ira

row...me, type of pit-loom. which'" the ad\IaIltqe of..,

It " dry the yarn is ready for the 1IancIIoom. 11Us ia frequently

IimpIo aad cheap. The weaver ..... a JaollOW' ame at bamboo in

is pIacecI the Illia. yarD, the sh8tde is tbrowa backwaJdI ad
tIM a&ed bel.,. opeaed 88 ftq1dred.

ANDa.uMIMG
wool is ftrst of an sorted accordiDa to quality. aad the dirt is
by. machiHbowa as . . . . .
MADlIrMaIK'IBI ~ _WOOL
1M baA (BAIe~
 WASHING AND SCOVIUNO
The ~ then movld ~ washed in a series or four ~1lJ
.anae--
tub. each coataiDias Warm soapy water and "eat a1tali. nus wool
perspiration are remowd. The fibres'are waahecI in the first
taak ad rinsed-in the othenfThe wool as it comes from the Jut
, is softaad white. If the wool is to be fibre-dyed it is seat to the
machine. If 1104 it is dried by forcin& hot air through the ibm. " ..u ......
,J'

about 16 per cent of moisture is left in the wool.

Valuable by-products are oblaiDed from the spent liquors ill
scouri8a of wool. The ~important of these is lanolin _10...... ...
IarpIy uIId in the manufacbn Q{_ cosmetiea. a6eaiw pllistet&,:
~ oiatmoata and a .Iloet of other pnparatioas.
~
A.IthouP acouriDa i.O"8 all areaseaad dirt . , . waetat,..
_ _ sudl u seed. aild bum. -.y .un remaia in the wool.
iJDpuritiet .IDUIt be removed. The process UIed for tItiI JUl'POIO iI
cuhonilina. 111 it tile wool is immened in ditote IUIpbuda acid,
_ _ acid ..Dead out and ~ wool4ried 1UMIer c:oaditiona of
tally coatrolJec(te~. The celIutose of tho burr is CODYetted
a brittle state and is U'UShed to dust by 10llen aad shaken Ollt.
~
 "~,,,,'V',,. ii ., no naeans in a fit state for spinnins. Ita fibrca

,.Ied
....... 'r. . . direCtions. It is, therefore, blended. opened out aad
iato a sOft, tJiiu, gauze-like band. This preparation of' wool
c:anIiq.
PMIIl'di1ta procesa iDtrodw:ea the da&Sificatiou of woollea y&J'DI
..,.aed yams. Manufaduriaa proenac:a from thia poia& cIiICr,
. . . . .. 011 wIacthet the wool fi~ is to be made jnto a woo... or
WOII8ed product.
01.....,
1ff-t1lc JllUafacture of wooJJea)'llml. the MeIItiaI purpoae
to 6entangle the fibres by pasaiaa the wool ibRa betweeD loDcn
IMMnd with thousands of fine wire teeth.lDcidentaUy. this actioa also
~Il_ some dirt aad foreign matter from the fibres; as tho wool
ate brushocJ and diseDtaD&lcld by tbeso wires, \hey teac:l to lie
.IJIdIQel, wItich would make wooDen )arns too smooth. SInce wooIea

the fibres"""y
"uld be ICIIIWWhat ro8lh or fur:zy, it is DOt detIrabIo to ....
parallel. By the ue ofan GSCiIIatins deYke, oae drill
film or stiver of wool is plaoed cHqoaally aDd owrJappiDg aaothIr

_ace
entaaaJed and somewhat puaJJeJ and et the aame time prOidIs. faay
to the yarn. After tbis cardi1lg procell, the woollen sIiytII 10
dileCtly to the spinniDg operation.
In the manufacture of wonted yarns, the essential purpose of card-
inI is also to diKntaqle the ftbrea by passina the wool fibres betwfen
roUm covered with fine wire teeth. Siacc worsted yams, hoWever,
should be smooth, the Abres are made to lie as puaIlel as this process
wiD permit. Fonowing this operation, the wool goes to the PfinI and
combing processes.

GJWNG AND COIIBINO

The carded wool. which is to be pwle iat.o wonted ya.m, it put
through gilling and combina operations. TIle aillinI process is gon-
tinued in the combinJ operation, which removes the shorter fibres or
1 to 4 incites in leaath, called combiq noRa, places ... ....... fikes
caUecl toPS. as para11el as poI8ibIe. bel furtMr cleans the . . . by
remtmna any fMIIinm, Joose impaddn.
11a Ihort-ttaf(e JloiIs 1ft !lOt 8iOeIIlrily of po quality. Combiaa
DOn. may well be of .ood quatity, depeDdiJJf OR the oriaJaaI8OU.fCe of
57
the wool. They may be used as fillers for other types of wool fabrics;
howevtr, allCh fibres must bo clauifted .. reproceaed wool.
TIle ..........,Ie
topI wJtich are OWl .. sites ill leqtlt excel ill
coICNI', feel, aad atreqda. 1'hoy are 1I8ed ill the produetion 01 audl
worsted fabrics .. 8eJIe, ~ aabarcline, and covert.
SPINNING AND WEAVING
Wool fibres are then ~ out and twisted into yam. Looeely
twiatod ftuJry ~ made ..o soft wooDen material Tbe amoother
tiaht ad event! tfiSted yam is used for weaviDa worsted.
DYEING AND BLIACIDNG
DyeiDa ad bJeacbiaa may be done next. Theae proc:eues may tab
place at any atap after scoariq. In lOme c:aaes, ~ is done,
as for plaids. Bleadliaa is UlUaDy necessary for andj'ed woo1leas owiq
to tho yellow colour produced by the scou.riq procea.
AeicI coIoun are exteDlftDJy used in wool dyeiDa. They are direct
dyea for wool requiriDg a6~.
JIINI8IIING
The beauty of woollen goods, depeads 1arpIy on the fiDisIa of the
. . . and of worsted goods. ill the weave. Wonted suitinp, wheID
t.abD from the loom. look mudl as they will in tile finished state, but
wool_ fabrics are far from attractive, being coarse and rough and
_'jpg many proce8lll to develop their beauty. The wool fabric is
dried ad ...dled cturiJWcbyiq to retain the eYeD width. The aurfaoe
ia bnuIIed to raise the baitI. which are tben cut into even lenpbs. The
.
matcdal ;, .then pressed and folded ready for sale.
pL\~
~

Drawiq is an (Idvanced combiq operation, which doubles and

redoubles slivers of wool fibres. The process draws, drafts, twists, and
winds the stock, makiDl the slivers more colllplCt aDd thinning them #
into s1ubben. Drawing is done only to worsted yams.
ROVING
This is the final state before spiDDiDl. Roving is actually a 6gbt
twiatiq operation to hold the thin slubbers intact.
SPINNING
I1l the spinn.g operation, the wool rOYioa iadrawn out and twisted
iato yarn. Woollen yarJII are dUe8y apwl on the mule apiJmiD&
machine. Wonted yarns are spun on uy kiad of spino;'.. macbiae-
mule. riD&. cap, or Iyer. 1'hm are iwo diareat aystema of ap;onjng
wonted,... /_ . .
51
 Spiamina
(Jams ~ tua.y,
tIlict, soft)
wJ..
~
How Tho MaauIIcttue "'WooDen'" W..... y _ DBl'er
Typical wool_ are made (rom . . . . . .pled fibieI, aad have a
fluffy appearaace. BumpIos: Saede dotb, tweed., llaael broadcloth
and wool CNfC'.
Worsteclate made hIIlloDa &bres, which are laid almOlt parauq,.
before beiDl biJhly twilled. They have a diatiDCtly viBib1e weaw, wRy
feel, and are somewhat barsh. They are finely woveD aDd free from IIap
and are smooth ia appearaaee. Wonteda liw wry aoocL,.tenice.
Examples: Men's suitiBp, pbardine. crepes, aacJ Bedford cord.

(a)

(b)

flo. 2.15 (a) Para1W 8I'I'8IJIIlIDIOt of . . ill woneecl J'UIIIj

(b) Rudom ......... "'. . fa . . . . . , . .


....
q~ from tho yam it .... L.Poky appearaoce. Its le~ ftriea
bltw.. It ... lS, tile Ioq 1InI]Miaa paeraIJy coarser dum the
60rt ..... TIIe . . . . . . for ......... ......n, 3 to 8 iDdIea is
............ thole . . . for wooIIeM . . from Lto 2 iacheI.
Jf'. . . . _ . . . . . . OI' ......... ,...~ . .bwniDshair
or r....,..,leMiIIta ~a lid '*'4
"'1111111",-,

.....................
_ _ ~.' .11 _ _ tile ~ the I8Iface flltIle" .. ...
"-'.Jf.N!r
to C01IIIIIJ

in ~ ... - - owrJappi.. ...

tell us that it may be extended 10, 20. 3O-aDd it the fabric is wet--4)
or 50 per cent widaout breatiBs. and wilen you let it 10 back. it retunis
to its oriaiDalleqtb uada...ged. Tbis is. very fIDporIiat property
for the 6bres used. say, at the knee or the elbow of. suit. This is the
one teaIOD wily ~ W'otl fabrics do aot uaaaIIy beoome perma-
DeBtIy wriatIed or shapeUas. This reailiency or elasticity not only
eaablea wool fabrica to ~ their abape better but alao helps them
to withstaacl wear.
WAUI'I'B. ; : ; , . .keeps ODe watm. 1bis is bec:ause the serrations or
scale-lito ~ 01 the Ibte entangle air. which is a ... conductor
of heat, arounCl ~ in between tbe fibres. The more loosely a fabric is
woven or kniu.t~ the IfCI.tet is the air entan&led. Hosiery fibres have
about 80 per oent air to 20 per cent fibres. Even tiahtly made worsted
suitiDlIlas about 70 per cent air to 30 per cent fibre.
AJIIIlNITY 1'01. KQISTtJU. Wool is the most hylfOICOpic of all fibres.
It am absorb moisture from the mr.roandill8 air up to 50 per cent of
its -aht and am carry . , to oae-flftll its weipt iD moisture witlJout
feeIina damp. It dries 810"." thus ~I a chilina 01 die body
tJlroqh too rapid evaporation. Wool absorbs perfpiretioo after violent

Woot _pe ~ou warm

FlO. 2.20 How die 8... or. wool ~ worn DOlt to the stm eotaaale
air. fOllDilll an IosuIatioa Ia,. (Proal lD.....tioaal Wool Sec..,.
tariat ....... "'Wool in die Home")
 ita . . OIl duty ia the far DOdIatm IDOUtIia ~ .....
in IeVerallayen of wool ill ont.r 110 keep'" .,._. . . . . fir
&om the body as pouiblo.
Wool is tile ideal protective Ibre. It protects witIl ....
because it insulates. MillioD1 of tiay cells of air are tapped ""
fibres and form aD iuulatiDa layer betweeD ..... aad
Por this reason, wool is the fJest ptotectiOJl apiolt bodt cold

Wool loses 25 por c:eot of its stnmstIl when wet. ID

the 10000er tile wool fibre die p:et the yara ItIeB8dL
Wool fibres interlock and CODtraCt wlln exposed to_t.
aDd pressure. The seale-lite exterior or the ..... II eDd
...... ..!I~:._- factor to fel1iq. Normally wool fibres repel ODe aaOtMr.

fibres. become softened in WI'ID albJiae IOlutioDI, dae __

at their uoattached . . . . nd with frictiOD ad preaauro . "
aDd ~Ioct and utljrnetety felt.

Flo. 2.21 Model tbowilla tbo molecular IUUCtUre of wool.

S&retc:IaiDa .... wool .... caa. dae IIIOlIcuIar
c:bai11a to uafoIcL (Courtesy. IDIa'DUioaal Wool
Secretariat. LoocIoa)

Tbis very useful property of wool 8Dcts applic:atioa in the ....a-

ractDre of felts for bata, shoes, ftoor coveriDpaod soad iDlllIatiaa
purposes.
Althoup felt il m_ble, ahriokap of 'Wool duriDa wubiq is DOt
desirable. To avoid sbrintqe as muollas pouibJe ia ........ woo.....
moderate temperature, low albJiDity, and tittle IIaocI1ina _1Je ob-
served. (See Chapter &Lauaclerina 0( WooIJeD&'.) ProeeueI for . . . . .
wool U1dhdobble pnorally aha .. mamiIII 01' mocWyiDl . . ICaIeI
OIl the fibre and so-pteYeatlDa the -.....y to creep. For this "rpGIe'
aIIloriao is often used to attack . . IUI'ftIco of dao Ibre. Ia aac6er
procell tile aarface of the wool. JIIIIdf:"'isldlid '" .. ..,... . .
papUa (from tIIo paw..,.. .... wIi1eIt ... daD e6eet ., _..., . . . .
68
the IICIIM8rf8co of tho woollbte). ID ,ttlllaGlher Yay . . . . . doubJo
p:ooesa. thloIiDaticID is fCl&lowed . , . eazyme actioa-ali trace 'Of
scalef is removed and a smooth fibre. HauIta. 1bia '1)oIay wool' is
completely ahriU-reaistant.
c.,....... 01 .......
The tUDCIameDtal substance of wol,l is a protein-keratin. lCeratin is
the fibre material of wool as ceUulose is of cotton. The fol1owing
fipros are a typical analy$is: carbon 50 per ~t. oxyaen 2225 per
~ nitrocen 1, 11 per cent, bydroaen 7 per cent and sulphur
3-4 per c:ent.
0..".......
ALCAUIIS tend &0 make wool yellow; hard and Celted iDstead of lOft
aDd elaadc. StrOllllOlutiou of sodium c:arbou1e, or dilute ODeS whe.
heated have a destructive acUoa upon the fibre. If ".,. is softeaed

for that purpose will

IIOda is more in~
i
by this agent, even tho smallest pen:ontqe ia ceII of what is Beeded
~ouratiSla pel harshenins Caustic
~6ii itjs..4ft.-'\0) .OB. In hot caustic
solution the fibre is com Iy "'Ived.
Borax aDd ammo. . . .vculO ~.ect ~I.
ACJI)!. Dilute acids have little eJl'ect OB wool, but laot concentrated
aolutions may weaken the fibres ()1' dissolve , _ .
OIlorine pel h.vpocbl~ .are barmf'uJ to __ ..., make the
Cabrie harsh to the touch:lJYdt~1fOii weakens \tOol.
BLIACIIBL SeitabJe for wool are.ydroaen-peroxide. "'SOdium-bydro-
sulPlaite aDdk.uejp-. . . ...,~.
BJeadUng powder (chJeride of lime) must Ileve{ be used OR wool.
OtI!arr ' I
WA'I'IR AND . .reftoN aft'ect the 1Ibres. for wben they are wet or
damp. the scales WIaieb sUJ'l'Ollnd their leastb are raised up aDd
rouaJIeDod aDd tead to iDterlock or ereit', as they are brought topther
." fIicdoa. FeltiDs caaaes aD article to become thick ad to sbriH. I
:IIcDot lab"", wJUch is usual ill wubiDl cottoa fabrics, causes serious
iIUurY to wooL
LONG DIQIUlIB TO KOImJU is libIr to oause sIlriIJkaJe, ad 10
. . . . . . peooeI8. thouk\.be c:arried out ct*k1Y as possible aa4
Joaa ...... must be aYOided.
_ _ OItW.... cauapallO . . . . ~dae _*_ proeeu if

.........,....,..,ed
,.if
caN it tIIba toflGleI'VO..,od ..... ." tbo additioB ~ . . . 8GapI

_:JiWY .to be
IIaId _ _ .1IM4 r. riaaiq. iBsolDbie " p i
DB die fabdc .80 it. daportaat to . . . .

._dl d __ lot tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . proCIIII'" 'lboaIIa ~

. . . IIIIIM. . ter..,.wHi ........... ~ -..,......
 . . ........ most tJpeI 01 dyes. 'I'JIooah wool. dte ID08t
.. .... ..,. it has lome ctiaaclvaataaa. Por aam-
. . . .., In ........... to prevent Ihriabp tI _
_ 0". wool fahrica absorb iDd hold coloun aoro . .

'I1IouP those odoun CID be ....".. by COIltIOIIed

process may DOt be fe8sible aDd dry _ ..... DOC
'*
~i:tive. B8dOrIa ~ fOl'lDflCl in peIter iumben WdoDea

__ 11."'"
IPIIIIIIUI. . . . . . . . . ~ from OdaftteDile . . . . neD uder
is .,.. ~ hell.. Iward AI dry . . .
, . ",. . . . . chat are MriDftd to us.

aarmentl JabeIIINI fpure', "rirpa' or 'Dew' wool are IIIade

that has De'feI' beea 1I8ed Won; tboce JMIbd lOO~ WOOf
wool 11181 be u.de patdy from re-proceaed wool. TIle tend
is used aiao .., delcribe the IIair or tile alpaca. ~ ....
.-orrabbiL
WOOL MClito wQO) on,iDally sbIppecI from Bobuay Bay
 ,.
,.
 ill such a way tbat it baa aiJDillrity .,..... OR both .....
aM weft are both dyed ia a rieh _ . . . . . . . fJ6 . . . .

tIIri.,
of eacJt threai by the tecbeique ef ~ or .......
..... cottaaecnft appeua ., llaw beea
two thomaad yean. well.."ndated lit . . . . . . .
ill GajIad f
,..,...1Od
for ita colour . . . . aad ricIl coo..u_ _. . . 0Il8lCO_
loaa time taba ia wea'fiq. its 1Iiah prhe, aDd tile . . .. . .
wcmn fabrica, the patot. YfIt111M1'1y dill..,..... frOJD till
market of yesterday. pOl't1lllately, with tile nmDl of tile
art vety receatly. the patoIu is DOt Iuch a rate IIlli as it wu
and one . . the patola tedaaique ateaded on otber
such as curtains. table coven, blouae-piecea, cushion COIIR
other houaehokI tatilea. They are chidy "._. in Benaru,
Hyderabad (Deccan), SambaJpur (Ora.) aad some towas of
State.
O"MIBEK is another very superior c1us of dIaoti ofhiatoricel iDttnat.
pure silt throqhout, it is aeneraJIy of a piDt, yeUow or lUll-
..u-,l;Dl011Ir and is worn on festival days or at meal by lllaDy HiDdua.
(Koaa 01' Kausbik vastra) it indipnouely Dowa throuaboat
k is perhaps one of the oldeR natural aiRs of occupation to a
of people. K.c.a clotIlstill torves the parpoae of silk cloths
use as patta...... 'l1ltir lubdaod l1IIII'e ad zidl colour
c:om~ with aold _beUishmenta make tIlem ideally suited
tenllDOlliai occasions. Saria WOftIl with aceIleat deaJpa auch as
elepllants, "'us, I'IICIa-blla, .., aad other deaips are in
today.
IattoDised. in the main, ." die Royal courts, IDdian ser.iculture .bas
a Ioas &ad cIlequered caner. IBatory teUs 1JI that Muhammac:l
(A.D. 1325-1350) was a sr-t patron of the industry. Abul
Ahmad, a Damucua tIa~, who came to IDdia from Egypt
this time records as follows :
Saltaa _ a manufactory. in wJaich 400 silt weavers are
BDDloyed. and where they make silba ..... of all kinds for
of honour. Every year the 80Itaa clilrributes 200.000
..,1II1P1e1tedrellses.l00,OOO in sprilll .... 100,000 in autumn.
sprina dresses are made of loods imported from Alexandria
thOle of tum. are made or dk aau(actnrecl in Delhi.
Sultan keeps in IUs service 500 manulactuten of aokIeo

"... ....
who wea..- sold broca4el worn by the wiwa of the
or fot preaeIlts to be 8iYeD to tile AllIin and tIaeir wiwe.

IHk illarply produc:et in aw..1adia, Japan ad die Soadt

"
 FIG.2.25 SDtIadultrJ Ja lDdIa (CoIb1eI7 : _ Board 01 JadJa)

0riJIa
Silk is tile _iIIiOa 01. tiItworm ad die fibre IIICId by dao
to .mate the pupal cue.
70
 oI.~
of tile . . WonD are1l1aeed ilrWIiIlte4- ~
to JJatcb. At tile tad of about ....... . , . tiae _ 'I\tb
These ue fed on mulberry.__ WMe the caterpillar is
weeks oW, it secretes a YiIcouIIuid flODl two ..... in
'l'hia 18~, cal1ecl 'throia'it.r..- throuah two IDiIIDte
IDto.,-, ait aear itl mouda. ~ . . . time two other
aecrete ...-y a JdDcl of )iqQI(C11Ji4 ' ...... wbieh .....
.. __ em. T.be fibroiJI. 11ft ...... l'ro1II the Ilead of
worm, &etI Ol' coaaulates formiDl a ale... coated with
"ith dais thread die c:aterpUIar . .,. itaoIf aMID4 to fOl'lll.
ne oooooa COIItaias 2.000 to 4.000 ,... or lilt, bat ~
01 to can be ne1ed;.
J / CCICOODIare ..~ yellow or IOIIllti. . . . . . . iB colour, the
. . . . due to the piJlDeDt that oceun IImoat . . . ., II the
Tho areater part or Japaaeae ... aaiDC8e sili aIl4 wbite,
siJb yellow.

may be classified under two IIIIia ."..

J-.~[1IIberry
or cuimated Bilk (b) ~ or wild silk.

BIhIM"PV silk is made by the silkworm of tIa 1toolbycidao unety.

tile 'Bombycidae' variy there are two types : oae is blown
IliI)IUllte' and tile otIler 'MultiYoldne. 11le former, wWch aWes
crop of ,ilt c1uriDa the year,. the otdinaty ElJropean tilt
( .....p ntIIrl). The latter, whidl gives mon than eiaIrt crop&
through a SucceaioD of ,eaa&foDI ddriq CIte year, iB tile
8ft wotm. Every ,eMlatioD ot c:yde of the Multholtiu 11
fOla.crop.
cocoons of the Uaivoltiae silt worms are of a 1m a1lCf dOle
so that the silk CIIII be teiclfIy teefect ofI' tItem, lind CfJe
:jeqUite a certain decree of cold to hatch out tep1ady and t.l-
.... of MultivoJIiDes llatch out healtIdly wit1tout sposme
and their COCOODS CODtaiD a small a1llOllllt or lilt. TIle COIl-
for UDivoltiDa are fdJJJed iJl X",,"t. 1FlN.rtias thole lot:
IYolttilles prevail in IeDp1 ~nc1 ~ &tate. In tJae SOuth,
slate alone COIltrilJutel tlne-fourtJaa ot., total JDII1bcrfty
_hC1lion in Ja4ia an4 ia reele4 0tIt of maJtlyc)1tioe COCOODS
fibre to six crop8 ia a JI8r.
n
 Of WILD SILK (M _ )
",." .",., .,."tJIie6)

.........
............
,.......
f ......
 1puII.
to ........,. dcJicate mates it i~bJe 10 wiIld oI'tIao
cottOD.
1_ 1ie1t Buropeaa ncorcl of tide lilt is A.D. 1676 thew_
Post St. Geoqe wrote dIIC . . . .,.edfies were ptOduced ill
!iaoI. . . . . .ry silt iDdustry, duiYiDa ia Aseam. Bitar, Madhya
ad om., den cmpioymeat opportUllitics to thoasaads of

~7f't?'-
iaduatry CO""ista of two main divisioas, ......,., the produc-
aterial made from (a) coatiDuous ftla1llelit or Belt aUt, _
or waite or IPDD lit that cauot be eceaomicaDy roe1ed
. .. .1110118 ftlameat thread or yanaa.
productioa of nett ailt, the OOCOODI are eoIIocted aad tboae
UDJUitabJe for reeliq or thole . . .ded for IIIWI7iDa tbo
of ega are removed.
CotOODS are atiIed by stea1l\ oc hot air ill order to till tile
witlrinit.
COCOODi are thea sorted for the fiJatuteI or CIIIIabJiMmeata
9{. large Dumber of reeIIaa buiu. Here tbey are tftate4
~ aDd mechaaic:aIIy bruIbecI and thus the OQteI'
IillkJVed aed the worker is _bled to fiDeI the sinJle ad of
thread.
Three to eight of these cocooa filaments are reeled toIeChert the
thread paIIIiDf up, dOWD aad tIIea up . , . , 10 . . tJte
--diaa tor the secmad timetwiatl tOIIJId the ........GrIId
tJae .... This arraaaement does DOt ~ aDl actual twJIt.
the tJuead .ibeIf', but serves to smooth, compnu ad c:eIDIIlt
t_ IIICIl1t8. A fresh ead is added to the composite tbread . . .
OM breaks or nma out from the cocooa.
thread DOW JI8IteI to a swift &IKI II wouacl iD die fona of
DuriDs its , . . . to the .witt, tile thread is dried eidIer
or by artificial meaDS. The yams made of reeW silk t!areads
toJefhor are caW throwu sDk. TheIe ,arDI ate wound _
or sbins for the weavers.
BLBAaDNG 1bo alit is tnated will 1ly~ or
" OIdIOltide. It is JIlOl'e dHIIcult to RtlDOYe an tile pm " - tbi
hea(O tile finisbed I.bre . . alightly diWereDt proper. . ftoal
silt 0wiD& to tile fact tftat pm ia atill preaeat.
D'IIIMO Ub wool. IiJt . . ail . . . . atIInit1 for cIyeI, speci-
dyw. wbIch procJace brIIat . . . on aD. AI a If08P,
. , . haw a aood t'utliellto ...... - ......
 _ ,._ ",.oatbetw................ A...,'" eded

...
put in. A spiDDiq frame, which wiDell aad mRDda . . ,.,.
puts in the twisU. Spa requirIe . . . . . . twist diu

. . is .leis expeasi_ thaD reeled lilt. aad II ottea .... t,.".

. . . . tbreada in a cloth. Tbeae tIueada do DOt )law to be
as warp yams. PJush, yeJvet.1I8tiD. and lace _, haft .,..
luis. taitted ties, sweaters, scanea. hosierJ aad uphoI.
I_l_~s use mixture of I))UD silk and other ftbres

1.." .._ ...... neW.

,... are uarawUed and .ch ODO is carefully eumiMcl. it wiD
tIIlt some yarJII are composed of &eYeraI fibres that lie parallel
flilbdy twilled toaether. no,...... are lustrous ad die
apart. These are reeled silk yams. If the yarns appear
cottoey ill texture and their fibres are shott aad or aaevea
die yams are spull silt.
delustnd fabrics today are popular. It mast be aoted
poraettes aDd crepes look dull. but that does DOt mean
)'8I'DI are of SpuD silk. The 'crepy' eI'oct 01 fabrics i . . .rod
ftl&lldIlb of the twist of the yarn. This decreases the lustre.
of
of sOt is a common practice. When yaros are prepatecl for
the yarn is boiled in soap aoIutiOD to remove tM Daturalll1t
aericin. The siJt may thus 10le from 20% to 30" or its
weiPt. As silt has a peat aftbaity (or metallic salta, suell as
til tiD aad iron. the loss of weight is replaced tIJroqh the
oftllese m_ls. Thu. a heavier fabric caa be lIItdo at a
thaD that or pure lilt. Wefahted lilt does Dot wear as kma
UDWeiPted silk, becaUlO ,uliPt and perspiration woabn tho
~1l_rY weigh" anile the silt to cract-. process often seen
aDd other lat crepes.

fibre is in every respect ODe of the mOlt perfa natural

known for yam-making. Silt is smooth ad somi-traaspa-
fa the louaoat 0( aU Datura1 fibres raoaiD8 from 800 to l2DO

.,peuace ef die Ik.

JIIB'IB is ftQ implar ... resembles ftaUODod, -YJ
with. JoqitudiaallDlddaaL
TI
 D8GOIIIIID III.E is maootII. CJIjadricaI aacI ......., aaifet.. ill
tbidmeIs, lib .... rock.
IGNl11ID au: __ slowly lib
wooll'UDDiDc toaether to form ~
bIact bcacI ad ..... tile ....
of bumiDa protei&. The ash or
wptecl aUt retaias shape fM
tho lilt burnt.
eo.,...... of die ....
Lib wool, silt is cbiefty proteiD,
bat colll8iDa DO sulpJaur. It COD-
siata of carboa, hydroaea, OX)'ltD
aDd DitroaeD .... CuHaNA
Oae.... readIoM
(a) AIbline substances are less
(a) ~
barmtal to silk thaD to wool, but Flo. 2.~ (a) Culti1ate4 lilt tlbre
more harmful thaD they are to (b) Raw silt fibre m.... ealaqed
cott Bot caustic solutioDs com-
pJeteJy dissolve the fibre, and dilute solutions are ineJined to discolour
it and to cause it to teDder. Weak household ammonia can be safely
used.
(b) Wild silt .. less aft"ected bJ alkali than cultivatod silk is.
(c) Dilute acids are absorbett aDd retained with tenacity, as tM caao
wid] wool. awd dilute orpuic acids caR be uaed without risk of injury.
Coaceatrated mineraL acids rapid1t dissolve the fibre.
(d) Wild sDk is less ~ by the action of acids and more slowly
\bd is die case with caJti98tod silt.
~ brilliaDc:e and SClOOp are imparted to silk by treatment in
a dilute solution of sulphuric, acetic and other acids, which are dried
in the fabric. A mixture of silt aacLwild silt tfe4l,ted in this way pro-
duces a silk crepe, the eft'ect being due to k fact that the bath has
1iUIe or DO action on the latter fibre.
Bleaehes suitable for silk ate tile same as for wool. The yellow
colour jn wild silk is Yay persiateJat with the J'DIUIt tba&. it is very
dUBcu1t to bleach it a pure w~
OIIMwnadIaM
Water has no harmful e&ct on silk, though loul exposure to moisture
tend. to discolour white fabriea.
Hardness of water sbonJd _"-cause any injury. tllo1iBh tIae amount
of.., needed to procJuce alither maba ...... more di8Icult. It'
allY add bas .,.. left ill an article affet t1ie W rm., or . , IOIp
'JI
 . . beeIa 1OWf'fDd. it"N de~ . . . . . . . ._
.... -aoa .. fabric.

. .,..
heat wiB ca1llO . . . . . . to . . . . . bat c6enriII aD4
c...... of tempetatare IIave DO . . . . . . . . . . . . WIaite . .
. . . yellow with the DIe of too ho& .. iron.

silt takes up co1ouriDI matter very rapidly, but it holds it

.
CAS!IN FIB'RB OR LANlTAL
the modem fabrics is ODe tht it prodaced from _It proteiD:
fibre of this type was cteveloped fa Italy by a cheMiIt aamed
in 1935. Casein Fibres are ftrious1y umed aocordiD,. 10
of maaufacture, 88 Laital (ItaI1). ~ (Oermaay). :NIa
LactofiJ (Holland) aDd 0mrCaaId.. 0ueiD fibre (BaaJa8ll).
is precipitated from mit by beJq tteatecJ witJl dilate
acid. It is thea dissomd iD a aoIation of caastic soda. TIie
forced through jets iDto a coaptada, ba6 of salpb1lric acid
then~. The filameats are cut into short Jeaatbs lite
SPUD into threads.
fibre is soft and feels somewhat lite wooL Under the micro-
it presents a smooth surface lib rayons as contrasted will the
f8rlrlCe ofwool.
fibre is used as a substitute Cpr wooLlt baa similar . . . . aacI
~"JUlalting properties to wool. ISa areaa aclmrtap over ,,001 is
has DO feltina properties. It readily absorbs albli fro. warm
l.,.utionl and becomes plastic. It tabs dyes more rapidly and at
temperature than wool but fades easily. It is DOn-shriDtable
not attacked by insecta. Howem:, caseiD fibre Iacb elasticity
r1IUe:Dgtb and stretch much more than wool. especially when ...
are used primarily 88 blending fibres ill order to capitalise OB
soft texture and appealing hand.

SOYABBAN PROTBIN FIBRE

fiIn .... first deft10ped by tho Font Maon abo1lt 1939,
wort was dropped by Moat the . . ofWodd War II.
IO)'8beus are Ant ctaahe6 to . . . . the oil. 'l'ho ,.... is
atracted by means of a weU .Ibline solvent. 'I1Iia iI tiIUId widl

Yariooa chemicah to prod1ICe a I01atioa aDd foree4 tlvouah jets iDto
a coqulating bath. The finished ftbre .... a warm, soft feel lib wOOl
aDd bas JOOd resiIieDcy. h bleDds euiJy with other fibres. It can be
WOveD or spU1I uablea4ed.
Soyabeaa fibre bas beea eJfperimeataIly made into blanlcet~ carpets,
upholstery, hats, suiting. and other products.

RDIL OR PEANUT FIBRES

Just prior to the Second World War in Barope the l.e.l. Ltd. intro-
duced a new fibre c:aUed ArdiL It is DOW available in bulk produced
at Dumfries in South Scotland. It is maauf&etured from peaDut or
JI'OUIl4aut protciDs iD a ID8I1DCI' similar to that uaedfor the productioD
or other protein fibres. Ardil is a crcaJD-COloured fibre with a moderate
more usually mixed witll _8,
Iuatre. It closely resembles wool. Altho. it can be UJecl alone, it iI
wool. or rayoa. The iDveaton claim
tbat it is strOBl, mothaad mildew-proof BDd docs DOt ahdDt. Tbe ti.m
bas a high resistance to attack by acids, but. lite wool,'" &eDSitive to
alkalies. It is soft aDd silky to touch and although ptOre expeasive
~ cotto... it is clleapcr thaa wool. ArdiI can be dyed with direct
cotton dyes.

ZEIN (Q)llN) FtBRBS-VICARA

The source of vicara is zein, proteiD of com. It is JbaDufactured by the
ViqiDia t!'a:rolina CompBDY, UJ.A. (from where it derives its Dame).
It btends !Veil witM all fibres. vLra is wcater than the natural pr~D
tbrel. It is creamy white in colour and bas the smoothness and softness
of cuhmere. Vicata does Bot 'pill'. but lacks the strength or nylon.
Vicara was manufactured in small quantities aDd fooad ready
~ce. but for UJlexplained reasons the production was halted in
1"8 aDd later the plant was dismaDtied.
BowVlan ......
The protein zein is remowd from cornmeal by al001l01. The proteiD
is treated with caastic soda. This process is called '.aaturing'. The
purpoee of this is to __,btm oat . , ooiIed proteiD molecules so that
they may be forced throush the spinaerette. The SpiDninl solution is
forced daroaah tho spiaaereUe _to an acid precipitatiDg 1IIth. The
treated ibrea Me bIeaded with formaldehyde aad stretched to orieDt
... ____ lor streaath. TIle tow'1a waaIMtd. dried. crimped aDd cut
iDto . . . . . . ._

~
(1) VICaIa is reeiHeat, very flaible and .... adequate toDaiIo ItIeDJIh.
(2) Lite aU protei&ar:~:- not aapport comlJastioa.
(3) It is DOt IaanDecJ ." as wool.
(4) It teSiIta ~ * ..... wrmtfiDa.
(5) It pftS softDeIs and e...ucity to cotton and rayon..
From 20 to 80 Pf ceIlt vicaL'a is uaed in blends with other flbrea.

BASIC PBATUlU!S COMMON TO ALL POTBlN FIBRES

l~ 101M CDIuaw,

1.R..... 1. PaIIrb.... to boIcI daeir ahape.

2. W_ _ when wet. 2. Wool loa aboat 40% of ita IInDIdl wbeo
wet, lilt about 15"- RaMIe cantull,
clariDa ........
3. Harmed b)' oxicIisIq .,.ta. 3. CaloriDe bIeIcbes ...... lin. SuoJiaht
' * - "bite fabrics to turq )'IIow
.c. Poor coadudon of ~. 4. Ooocl iDIuIatioo.
5. HiP abIodteDoy. s. Comfortable In cool, damp climates abIorbs
odoan.
6. U. DIU&Ia) or mild eoap or detcqeot;
pcnpIradon weateaa the fabric.
7. Wool beoIJ4Na bersb aDd brittle aDd
lCOIdlCIIeIIIiIy with 4ry beat. Silk yellows
widaheat.
.. Do DOt IItppol't combustioD. 8. ProIein fllns teod to stop bunaIni wbea tho
4ame is nrncmcL Burned proteia . _ 111m
die odour of bamiDa cbicteD featben. 1'hiI
. . c:aa be UIId by COOl...... to diIIJaaaIIb
wool from fibres which ...... wool.

82
 CBAPTsa3

The Thermoplastic Fibres

introduced tho 1m or a Il'OUP of syDtUtic fibres which

man in many _)'I au.d lave Ilolped to Dab livinI euier.
~Utic fibres bayo beea calIecl 'Maaic Ibrea' ... 'Easy-UviDa
requited for wasIriq, drybta ad ironia.""
_1COdtime
to a minimlJlD, aad iroaiq is oftea DOt MCelI&IY. 'J'.heir
1treId. elastieity aad odIet vonatiIe qualitioa have IIefpecI
",taler'To a anat esteat.
.tIaoImoJ"ic fibres are those tIaIt soften aDd become pliable
willi beat, namely, Acetate. Nytoo. DIcroa. OrIon and

.tf'~~ \law, ~ _~Wd with . . . .

otIaer sources wIIich bave ~ above their melD,

_t
Their softening poiDts vary &om quite low to very 'bip.
also melt if they come IJl entad with too bot aa iroa or
from

. . as hot dprette asboa. The hot, melted JDateriaJ caa cause

Lite other man-made lbrel, thermoplutic fibres JIl1I8t
to orient the molecules in order to iacieaae ible streaatJa.
au.d sometimes tbeir dimeDaioDaI stability. Duriaa ... proccu-
. .liDI and drawinS operations, the orientatioa of tIae moleculeI
......IIU. At the sa.me time tile linear moJecuJes are UIIdc.r ~
strain wJlich if roleased duriq wuIUDa and atcamm,. mq
considerable sbriDbae and often pucIcerina of the fabric.
treatments have been devised for reluina- auch Itr8iDs in
abies. In onIer to ICbiove dimen8IoDa1 atabiJity, heat
tile treatmeat used (or 8Omethermoplutica butDOlaU ofthlm.
Ibros have bOlD poupod into two major cateaaries 'Iiz.,
. .ated c:eJluJoaic (It) Syatbetic
fibres ran under cellu10lic PMlP aad ftbnl . . . ~
polymer e.,. uyJoo. po1year acr,Iic etc. faD uader ayllllaeC.ic
 ACETATE (THE CELLULOSE BASE FIBRE)

The acetates are one of the oldest and least expensive of all man-made
fibres.
Acetate is the second of the 'man-made' fibres produced by Du
Pont, which like rayon, is dependent on cellulose for its basic material.
Acetate was originally classified with the rayons. Later, however,
the Federal Trade Commission of U.S.A. classed acetate with the
thermoplastic fibres, as it has properties that arc so unlike thc rayons
and because it is a chemically different material.

Manufacture of Acetate
Acetate is an ester of cellulose produced by treating purified cellulose
with acetic acid. The cellulose is changed both physically and chemi-,
cally by the following procedurc.
Purified cellulose in the form of cotton linters or wood pulp is mix-
ed with glacial acetic acid, acetic acid and sulfuric acid, for a period
of 5 to 8 hours until a clear solution of the desired viscosity is formed.
The cellulose changes to cellulose triacetate. The solution is then aged
for IO to 24 hours and during the time it hydrolyzes to a secondary
acetate.
The solution is aged for 10 to 24 hours to make the cellulose acetate
soluble in acetone. Water is added and the cellulose acetate precipi-
tates to form cellulose acetate flakes which are dried and then several

batches of flakes are blended
together.
The flakes arc dissolved in acetone and spun out into a column of
warm air:Delustering agents or jolour may be added to the spinning
solution b~fore spinning. The filaments are collected and wound onto
bobbies rcady for shipping to the mills for weaving or knitting.
Staple fibres are cut, crimped, lubricated, dried and baled for
shipment.

Physical appearance
The acetate fibre, as seen under the microscope, has length-WIse slrIa-
tions, but they are fewer in number than those in viscose. Cros;>..
sections resemble 3 to 5-petallcd flower.
Chemical properties
Acetate is a cellulose ester composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.
It contains chemically reactive hydroxyl (OR) groups and many acetyl
groups. Oxidising agents seldom need to be used on acetate. If bleach-
ing is necessary, a mild hydrogen peroxide or a weak chlorine bleach
should be used.
Acetate is resistant to moth, mildew and soil.
84
 ._ble.
tho fabric is wuIaabIe. Always dJ.ect the taa for thiI mr. . . .oa. If
acetIIto Iakica aWd ..".. tIY iD mild, IubwenIl
sucla, riDaed, and . ." , to ddp dry CIt blotted to remove tile 0. . . . .
moistare. WIaea...., damp, 'fOIl OD" wroaa lido with a .....
li8Ilt touch (ao.,. preas ~ YOIt do Dot Jaave to itoa oat aU tile
moiatare. Just lIIlOotll out tilt twriDliel, filliah on the riPt aide with
a pr-. doth ..... DlCenlry, .... 011 haDpr. aDd let the air IDiIh
tlaejob.
...."c....-
Acetate wid dil801ve in acetone, aDd other orpnic solvents such u
aaiI polish remover and perfumes cootaiDiDa such solvents.

NYLON (TBI fOLYIIIDB .....)

NyloD was the ftnt
(tom laboratory
1IIBIl-ri. tlbre to fie built up or 'synthesizecl'
dlemkaJs. In 1929, tire De POIlt ~ (USA)
started a research ptopam uader the cIiredioJa of Dr. 1'1.11. Caro-
tIlen (l) to learn .IDOR about tJao chemistry of combiniDJ;..,1 mole-
C1dea to form 1arp molecules. The Du Pont Company produces maD.)'
l:bI. of producti, and there was DO de6IIite pJaa tIIat tfle re&eaIdl
should result ia the productioD of a . . fibre. Polymers of both tlle
polyesters and polyami4el were atded. <A polymer g a Jaqe mole-
c8le made ." J>ioiag topMr . ., amall molecules.) By 1938, severa)
I~ polyamide ~ witIa .&bre-f~ eJaaracWiaticl
W been made. Of tJaeee. fibre fi6 (6 moleeules of 8dipic acid . . 6
molecules Of hft!amedayliae cJi6Uu) was 8IIoeted .. lIPiDs tile heat
.breI.
a&K.o1IIlCI ;Properties tor It 1IU . . . . . 'ayloa' and fint IDItba=cl
hi toodl bruJJl hrJBdea. Ja May 1.940. the lint uyJoa tGtiIe fi_ ...
),at qa the market in nylon hosiery.
NyJoD 66 was tbe fint aliphatic polyamide to hav. bed. developed
wb\eh was or tecbDieaI iID~ Tho ~or production or poIya-
.micio Abre ill the wodd is of Nyloll 6 aI.ht Nylon 66. However. becauIo
of tho lower cost of iDpodioDts and the tuier pfO'Wlina to mn. the
world production of NyJoa 6 eoatiD... to "ow more .rapidJy. Other
nylclll subetratea lib Nylon ~ 79, 11 aa4 12 hIlYe also . . . .veIoped.
]a Jndia so far 0DJy Nylon'.ia beiDa ~
Nyloll is a paeric __ 1IItber dIaa. trade __ It is the ....
ol. family of ~ that"., as to ~ fClll'JD, dr . . .
~ ayloa . . . . ._ .melt at . . low ~ aadatlaoD

..,.11.
....... a1Mnat

melt at . . . . . . . . OYer P. . . tJpe of fibre uted fer tatiIII
~ mto wIIidl.,taa 00IIIp08" _y be
.... IIi'MII" riP4pJatio1. to""" to . . . . .

 of n1lon fibre. ~ DJIoa"'''
.-1Iarama
th 7.5per deaier.
aeveral types
of dIDier, ad repIar .,.. ftbro
pull pet
are produced ia dine
NylOD . . .
. )fi]aJDellt, multifilameDt, aDd staple.

fUns eme1'lo from

aDd hit tile air
ad are then pther-
a yam. Next the
1fIetc:bed or 'cold drawn'
. . .. 111C1U of rollers. An

takes place
_liII~ In the undrawn
chain-lib mole-
_1tJIII~ helter-sb1ter,
in a haystack. But
the molecules into
places them
another. and briDas
to,ether. Fibre dia- Flo. 3.1
reduced in size.
mustrates this; the molecules are represented by short
JtJlon is cold-drawn, it becomes very mODI. toaah ad
die yam devolops traDIlucency _luster. After drawilla.
yams are carefully inspected and I**ed fot lbippina to
miD.

Flo. 3.2
1,',_ UHe
~_it into
is made by crimpiaa conttlaoas
mort
.,loa
fUameat tow
1IDifonn feDItbs. It ia dipped in Jarae

"

fl'
 pacta much lib bales of cottoD. Some nJloa _ ,.. is
by reprooesaiDl .ylOll ~. ayIteID siIDiIat to tMt . .for wool.
...Wdu. . . . . , , . . . . .
is a round smooth fibre dial. UDder the microacope. rcaembIe&
_IIlODiDm rayon and dacroD. Siaco .ylon is round. ill cross
and amal1 in diameter, it pacta topther Jcavi... little dead
ia the 78J1l or fabric. For tbia IIUOD DYloD has lea bu'kbaa
than the acrylic Jbree. NyloD fibres have aaturaJ tIaD81uceaq;
[llqllODtJ!y, filament DYloa can be . . . into very .... t1'aIIIp8leDt
The traaapaRmcy of the fibre has made it di8icult to produce
that are Iiafat ill weiaht aDd yet are not 100 &beer. TIle first
It OIlIaQ\ae nylon fabric:a were made by priDtiIla them with a rcabl
a white piameDt. .Receatlyopaque nylon bas beea developtcl.
...... 10........,
is very durable bec:aase it is ft1'y 8UOIII. elastic and resiat8at
Its strenath varies from.. to 1 arams per denier. It is
to have very sheer fabrics with aood weariaa properties.
of nylon are seldom diacarcled because or WorD places ia
but rather because seam failure, 1011 of colour or a &raY
~AI-.ltIJ61I fibres are so stIODg ad cblrabte that they .omea
'shear off' or cut throqh odaer kinds of fibre duriDl wear.
and ctippen need frequent resIwpenina if used on _yloll.
offilameDt yara fabrics are problems resuttiDJ from ayJcm'.
1tteaJtb. Whea saaaina oc:cun. DYIoa fib.ra do Dot break aa
fibres do. but puB and cause tho fabric to pucker.
is one of our most elastic fibres. Hi8h elasticity has also
problems for both manufacturer and COIISQIDet ia the packer-
_ . ..... _. sewn with oyloa thread.
has aood resiIieDcy. bat it win wrinkle unless made ill
_ *OIDS ncb aa Imits, crepes. or pucbrecl fabrics.
low abloJ:bency of DY. it an advaatqo ill quick-dryiDa fabriR.
a disacluataae in eomfort ill clotIaiDa- This problem is beiDa
by the use of open,.wort or lacy deaipa and by tile use or
NyJowiziq (4) is such a fiaiah. It OODIists of an emuIaiIed
DyJoa IOlatiOJl applied to the fiDisbed article aad - cIuriDI
. . . .d ... heat1Ottia& plOOlllS. 1&8 maiD fUlll:tioa is to nduoe tho
water repeUaacy of DYIoa 10 JIlOisnue spreads qaictly aad
. . ...uaa is speeded ap. Nyloaiziaa aJso iacreasea tile softDMa.
and warmth of die fabric.
,.,.ells
contaial carboa. hydropa, OZ)'llD; aacI Jlitro8ea. NyIon _ _
a,
 have the ability to 'bond' or cross-link (heat-set) very tightly together
when a yarn or fabric is exposed to hot water, steam, or high tem-
perature for the first time. This bonding gives nylon a shape and size
that can only be changed by exposing it to a higher temperature.
Nylon must be heat-set and this is usually done as a separate opera-
tion. The consumer can wash properly heat-set nylon in warm or hot
water (below boiling) without danger of excessive shrinkage or change
in shape. Very hot water sometimes causes 'set' wrinkles. Nylon fabrics
that have not been heat-set will acquire permanent wrinkles during
storage or finishing processes.
Nylon is less heat-sensitive than either Orlon or Dacron. It is
harder to iron creases in nylon and harder to get them out again.
Raised design fabrics, such as the new nylon damasque (sculptured
nylon) are made by shrinkage with chemicals. The raised areas are
created by printing ,phenol on that part of the fabric which is to be
the background. The phenol causes the nylon to shrink, thus the
untreated areas pucker. The background is usually printed with a
metallic pigment of either copper or aluminium colour. These fabrics
are washable.
Nylon is resistant to most chemicals but is damaged by strong
oxidizing bleaches and concentrated acids. Hydrochloric and sulfuric
acid of concentrations as low as 3.0 per cent will damage nylon. Soot
from smoke in industrial cities contains sulfur which, on damp days,
combines with atmospheric moisture to form sulfuric acid.
Resistance to perspiration
Nylon fabrics are resistant to perspiration. The colour, however, may
be affected.
Care of Nylon
Nylon is classed under the easy care fabric-as it is easy to launder
and needs no pressing. Nylon melts with a hot iron and forms a hard
ton-coloured bead. Strong bleaches should not be used on nylon. One
disadvantage of nylon cotton blends for garments as overalls has
been the fact that nylon is not resistant to the chlorine bleach needed
to keep overalls clean. When it is necessary to bleach nylon, use a
mild bleach.
When sewing with nylon, use nylon thread, because it will last as
long as the garment. It may be necessary to change the needle often
as nylon dulls needles and scissors very readily.
Types of Nylon textile fibre
MULTIFILAMENT yarn is made up of a number of tiny, almost
endless strands twisted together into one yarn. The size and number
90
of these minute strands can be varied as well as the amount of twists.
Most nylon fabrics arc made from this versatile type of yarn. In
lingerie, blouses, bathing suits, and upholstery, multifilament yarns
give you pleasant surface texture, softness, and luxurious drape.
MONOFILAMENT yarn is single, solid strand of continuous length.
Very sheer hosiery is a glamorous example of its use. Monofilaments
are also used to make sheer blouses, veils and gowns.
STAPLE consists of many short, wavy strands of nylon cut lengths
varying from one and one-half to five inches. The wave or 'crimp' in
these strands adds springiness to yarn spun from it, giving you light,
soft fabrics that are pleasant to the touch. Its convenient washability
and durability has made this form of nylon fibre especially popular in
sweaters and socks.

From fibre to fabric

Knitters and weavers use nylon in their fabrics in three basic ways:
100% nylon fabrics, blends and combinations of nylon with other
fibres, and as reinforcing material.
IN FABRICS MADE 100% OF NYLON These fabrics can give you the
full benefit of all of nylon's many properties-strength with light-
weight, resistance to wear and tear, shape retention and easy care.
Examples are: Blouses, slips and socks that wash quickly and need
little or no pressing.
BLENDS AND COMBINATIONS: Some materials are made partly of
nylon and partly of some other fibre such as 'Orlon', 'Dacron'
polyester fibre, cotton, wool, rayon, acetate or silk. Such fabrics can
be broadly classified under two headings-'blends' and 'combinations'.
BLENDS In blends the various short staple fibres are mixed together
before the yarn is made. These yarns are then made into fabrics.
Blends of nylon and wool can be lighter and stronger than wool alone.
If enough nylon is used in the blend, the fabric may need no special
care to prevent noticeable shrinking or loss of shape after washing.
Nylon and cotton blends can have greatly increased wear and tear
resistance without loss of cotton's characteristic softness.
COMBINATION In Combination fabrics a yarn made entirely of nylon
and a yarn made entirely of another fibre are woven or knitted to-
gether. Many rayon-nylon slip fabrics are of this type-such a fabric
can have the drape and feel of rayon with the added strength, wear
and tear resistance, and shape retention given it by nylon. An improper
combination of nylon and rayon may result in the nylon fibres cutting
the rayon fibres.
AS A REINFORCEMENT Here nylon is added in small amounts to a
product. giving the article longer life. Nylon yarn knitted into only
91
the toe and heel of socks made of another fibre is an example. The
nylon greatly increases the sock's wear life.
Physical properties of Nylon
STRENGTH WITH LIGHT WEIGHT Perhaps the outstanding property
of nylon is its unusual strength. It does not deteriorate with age.
WEAR AND TEAR RESISTANCE. Nylon was created to last longer. It is
naturally tough, pliable, and can take an immense amount of rubbing
scraping, bending and twisting without breaking down in the least. The
smooth filament surfaces of the nylon yarn cut down friction to a mini-
mum when they rub together or against other surfaces. In children's
play clothes, upholstery fabrics, football suits, socks-this extra wear
life means real value.
RESISTANCE rro DAMAGE BY MOTHS, MILDEW, ETC. Normally, moths,
silverfish, and other insects will not attack nylon fabrics. Water, pers-
piration ~nd standard dry cleaning agents also have no weakening
effect. Nylon, though resistant to most chemicals, it is damaged by
strong oxidising bleaches and concentrated acids.
Nylon Fibre Blends
The consumer uses many textile products that do not possess aU the
properties he would like them to have. He would, for example, prefer
winter coats with sufficient warmth but less weight; cool, light summer
clothes that would not lose their fresh, clean appearance on hot sticky
days; fabrics that would wash readily, dry quickly, and not lose their
shape. Textile designers and engineers are producing new fabrics to
meet such needs. These combine or blend two or more fibres to give
the desired properties to the fabrics.
NYLON AND COTTON

When properly combined with cotton, nylon adds strength, which

allows the development of unusually fine textures not possible to
obtain from cotton alone. Nylon provides smoothness, silkiness and dirt
rejection. It also reduces the weight of the fabric and increases its
wrinkle resistance. The cotton gives softness and moisture absorption.
This combination permits the weaving of fabrics that are soft, supple,
and extremely serviceable. If the combination is not properly balanced,
the cotton may shrink, causing the fabric to pucker. Also the nylon
fibres may cut the cotton fibres. A blend of at least 17% high tenacity
nylon staple with cotton will produce an extremely durable fabric.
NYLON AND WOOL

The proper combination of nylon and wool will produce a lighter

weight fabric with greater durability, Such fabric will retain the hand,
drape, and warmth of wool as well as the elasticity, resilience, and
92
shape retention of nylon. The properties of the fabric will be in direct
proportion to the amount used of each of the two fibres. A blend of
10 to 15 per cent nylon and the remainder wool is considered
satisfactory .
NYLON AND SILK

In this combination, the silk improves the hand and provides mois-
ture absorption. The nylon improves the stability or shape retention,
as well as the elasticity and strength.
NYLON AND RAYON

In this blend, the nylon gives wrinkle resistance and strength, and
the rayon gives suppleness, drape, and moisture absorption. Such a
combination makes possible a fine quality fabric of extremely light
weight. As with cotton if the combination is not properly balanced,
the rayon may shrink causing the fabric to pucker. Also an improper,
blend of nylon and rayon may result in the nylon fibres cutting the
rayon fibres. Like cotton, rayon staple blended with high-tenacity Du
pont 420 nylon staple can produce fabrics with 70% longer wear than
all-rayon fabrics if the nylon is blended in a proportion of at least 17
per cent. This blend is desirable for such garments as classed as wash
and wear type. '
NYLON ACETATE
The acetate in such a blend provides a luxurious hand and the nylon
gives light weight and strength. As with cotton or rayon, improper
blending may result in the nylon cutting the acetate fibre and in some
fabrics puckering may occur. Also neither nylon nor acetate absorbs
much moisture. Such fabrics feel clammy and uncomfortable in warm
and humid atmosphere.

DACRON OR TERYLENE (THE POLYESTER FIBRE)

Dacron or Terylene was discovered during the Second World War.

The name dacron is a trade mark owned by E.!. du Pont de Namours
& Company for a particular synthetic polyester fibre. The basic work
for the development of Dacron polyester fibre was done by Dr. W.H.
Carothers in his experiments with giant molecular structures, but he
devoted the major portion of his research to polyamides which resulted
in the development of nylon. The British studied the work of
Dr. Carothers, and continued the research of polyesters. In 1946, they
announced the production of a fibre, 'terylene,' made from ethylene
glycal and dimethyl terephthalate. The same year the Du Pont
93
 Compuay boqbt the patent riahts- helm work on tire 4eftIop-
mcmt of the fi1n whida was- later (ill 1"1) colDlllerCially bowa 88
Dacroo.
Dacroo is Dot chemically n1htecl to aay other fibre. It is meltapao
lite oylon and is mach 1ite It ~ pllysic:al appearaoce and in . . , of
its properties. DacroD fabrics are VOl'J similar ill appearaace to oylon
fabrics.
There are two disfnct types of Dacroa :
(1) ftlameot yam (used in knit fabrics for men's shirts aDd women'.
dresses).
(2) staple fibn (used io upholstery fabriClS and ftlliDa for pillows).
1bese are the same chemic:ally. but they posseas somewhat Mereut
physical properties. 1bese dUferaIce8 have been produced iateotioaaDy.
so as to make Dacron 8Ui~!: 1ridely dift'emlt purpoaes.
Thus ftlameot yam is pr and made ftI'Y mucIa Ute silt or
ayloa. whereas s&aple able has a ltool-lite appear8!lCO acI dIarac:ter
and can be processed on the worsted system.
Chemically. DacrOil and ce1Iu1oee acetate are both . , . and for
thif reasoD haw: similar dyeioa properties. Dacron is poJymerised at
hiah temperature in a vacuum and is then miD SpUD. Dacron when seen
under the microscope is so moch like Dylon that identificatioo is
diflicaJlt
......... el.taa-
(1) It is warm to the touch.
(2) It hU a low stretch in 'DIe in the filament yam.
(3) It is creaao-resistaDt and wIft keep its shape wet or dry.

(4)smce Dacroa fabrics haft a low absorbency, staias lie 00 tle
surface, it is easily washed. dries quickly. Dacron bas excellent press
~r crease retention. Creases remain sharp even after wasbina.
(5) It is very strong and has a hiah resistance to robbing.
(6) It is mothproof, mild~ immuoe fl'OJD attack by other
insects and bacteria.
(7) It is resistaat to weather aDd suoJWtt, speciaJlJ behind...... It

mates teryleDe comfortable to wear iD hot weather. cYeII.,.

is DOt easily a1fected by perspiratioa. It has wickiDc property that

Dot absorbent. Wickiq is the ability of a fibre to pick up moisture

it is

aDd allow it to travel aloag the ibre althoup it is IIOllCtually abs0rb-

ed by tho fibre. Thua tho moisture i,atried from the atiaoC. wearer
oatward. wIIere it evaporates.
(8) It.has esceJleat ~ to sUch oddUiog . . . . as sodium
~ hy4roaea p.iooDdo even with IOWJe treatIDeIlt It .... a
.... lWIistaace to aD ICidI. ewa . . . _ _........ after a JODI
1M
 or 72 houn at a .....,_....., of 176-F. It .. naiItut to
(lteCIIIorIC, nIplmric, Ditrio, acedO, tormiead oaaIio ....

Dacron builds up stade e1ectridty. 11aiJ CIUl be C0Dt(01led by aae

_dade ....
Dacroa 'piJIB' VOl')' . . , aad, beca- DI JI.iah eIectrotIadc
pill.., picks up IiDt..fonaiDa 'liDt(:lilla. wIUdl8poil the appeuuce
fabric.
UaHke the other thermopIaatic fibres, Dacr01l lias DO water
1IIIlI1lCY. IIlstead it hu wictiaa properties. Raia drope wick thtovP
caaaiDa 4iIcomfort.
' e.d. . . .
DacrOD raemblea nylon melts and forma a hard bead at a
~.re below ipition point. The bead may contiDue to bum,
bard, .irregular bIIct masa.
III appeuaaco undor the microscope, teryleae llameata
smooth ad cylindrical, wJule tJaeir cross sectiom ate c:ircuJar. It
much like nylon.
Dacron retains its fibre form _ tna1l8eDt, for ODe
with. .1iDa phosphoric acid (10 per ceat). This diatinpiahes
other r-yndletic polymer ftbres wllidl either dissolve, or a1ariDk
their fibre form.

bas been used for curtains, women's UDderwcar and night-

men', socb, women's dress materials, and bitted J8I1IlCDts.
for "es

,.. ....
bas a fairly 800d affinity for dyes, and can be dyed in a
ranse of colOUR.

poIyeIter fibre has been ~y bleDded with many ot1Ier

VariOUl e&cta and combiatioDa of properties are derived from
Woods depeadin8 on the tUns u...s and on the perceatap& ia
...-IIWJ.One of the moat iIDpodant~ that dacroa pr0-
ia its high desree of ahape retcatioa for prmenta that reqaire
or no ironina after they are washed.

atiafactory W8Ih and wear ~ taIwica for Jain.ear,

clotAio" chss sIIitts, sad Iports BfIirts mould lIaw a w...r
of
6S .1* cent cJaaroa witIl tile eot.toD. .oa.- dJ proWde
~
 wriDkJe ......ce aad Ibape 1I" laf'ioL Cottoa wDl provide aIJIorb-
ew::y aad ........ 00IIIf0rt.~. aa1_ proper!)
aDd properly cared for a fabric of. dacroD aacf cottoa bIoad ..,
00DItI'"
pucker aod lose ita shape if the cottoa Ihou1d IhriDt or ifcottoa tbreiId
is uaed in ....... Dacron aDd coa- .... are weI1 suited fortabrb
to be aima a ~ p.... ftDiIb. The dIu:roD Dot 0lIl)' CODtribateI
ita on iaJlereat ...~" qualities but alto retaias ita atreaath.
thereby reel.... the total poteDtial strenatb loss from fiDisbiD, dlat
&IIaU-c:ottoIl fabric woUld have.
DMaON AMD WOOL
ID combiaatiOD with wooJ. dacron proYides OUtltailding wrlatle
reaistaac:e and crease retention, so that wet or dry, the shape retention
is improved according to the ptoportions used. The peater abrasioD
resistaDcc of dacron also provides lonaer wear. TIle wool constitutes
lood draping quality and elasticity. The wool also recIuceI..tF buard
of melted holes due to burDing tobacco. A blend of60 per cent dacron
aad 40 percent wool provides a cloth warm enouah for year-round
suitl.
DAC2.OM AND aAYON
In a blend witIa viIcose ra)'OII, n.cro.a giftS areater reaiJieacy, a1Iape
reteIltioD, aad dlrability. 'I'hniIcoee rayoD provides absorbency and
variety of colour and texture. For aatisractory wash 81Id wear senice,
a blead of .. least 55 percent dacrOD with the rayon is desirable. A
bJead of 65 per centdaaon and Jf5 per cent hip wet-modDius rayOD
pr.dea a stroDI. durable aod serviceable fabric. The fabric has a
'Lood band and drapes well. The rayon a..iD provides the absorbency
diat dacron lacb.
DACRON AND NYLON
Nylon contn'butea strenath and abrasioD resistaDce. DacrOD COD-
tributes outataDdiq wrinkle resistaDce. Such a combiaation offen
...1Iility. easy IaaaderiDa, quiet dryiq, aDd resiataace to damaae from
IBiIdew and iDsects. The fabric will be cIamm)' to the Ria, howewr.
ia warm, humid weather. SiIu:e both the fibres are tbenDopIastic aad
Ileither is very absorbellt .., combiDatioo in die blead will provide
good wasil and wear dlaracteristics. C"Me shoGId be takea to avoid
piJliDl of fabrics with this type of bJead.
ta.fl" (nee . . .et jtAdlee)
Wash, beed aIld aqueezo. Drip dry. The _ _ of the water will , . .
it .. it dries.

N
Ie cant.l ~ t1Inl aU . . . . . ~ 'I'JIiI will _ace
 B;' 8lfo . . . ... bJadiRJ Jihre jD c:ertaiIl kiads of paper. It ia
IOIDedmca woven wfdI ether fttn"ea ill carpets to mate embo cI dIIip
when W,"OIl or tafrcd carpet ij treated with heat, the .y08 abriDb,
thus producia. tle cleaip.

ORtON (AN Aam.IC l'IDB)

OrJoa iim made ita appearuce ill 1948. 'OrIon' is malIy tho npter..
eel trade mart for the acrylic produced by E.L du Pont de Nemoun.
Other compaaiea also lD8Il1lfacturo acrylic fibres, but the mart
Odoa' app1ios omy to Du Pout's acrylic fibre.
MIS.,...
'Orfoa'is .made from a chemical compound C&lled ~cmitrite, which
is formed by the .mon of ethylene oxide aad h~ acid.
'I'IIeIe two cbemicaIJ are derived from the elements fouad in coal, air,
. ., petroJeum and limestone.
TIle acrylonitrile compound contains carbon, hydropn, and nitroaen.
A dOle relative of acrylonitrile is tho actyUc resin u.ed to mate
'LlMjite', found in maDy items IUCh as broshea. handles and comba.
Lucite is nu"ont'. ~ trade mart for its acrylic fibre.
To make the fibre, linile m. . of acryIdDitrile are processed
m reaob' OODtaiDin, water aad catalyst UDtiJ the mo1ecWes con-
aect into JODI chaiDa of ~ODitrile polymer. Then the water is
{Cmoftd "aDd the polymer is pressocI throqh perforated plates and
cut into bits reeembtina kobo noodles.
The hard bits are dissolved, by use of a solvent, to mate a con-
c:eattated solution. After bema ftltered, the solution is forced throup I
a apinuerette, which is a small, r.pand metal plate with tiDy holes in it.
PuahiDB the solution tbrouah these' barely ""'hle holes is c:aUed
a.taadiq. The polymer is extracted in the form of IODI threads, or
iIameats, which are dried in hot J8IeS and ctrawu, or stretched. wbile
hot. The dra1riDa proceas orienta the ~ molo.culea by p1aciq
tlIom puaIleJ. l'UIIJliDa JtqtJnrise ia".fiJameDt. Drawiua eoDttols
tJae stIetCIa of the lin and iJDproves its strcDadL
'OrIon' ill ftlamoat form reaembles IoDa lilt strands. This to"" is
ued in 1IIlOOtIl.101MWnea ahiDy, fabrica auda as satins. 'OrIon' is
also made in ItapIe form, ,wIaicb re$emf>fes wool or cotton ia dleir A.
ranDa.

.
Staple is .... ' "put:tiDa a crimp. or "permaneot waw'. iDto
the . . . . . . _ tILeu CQttina thotn iato 1eaatba raaainI from Ii to
4I1ac1aea.
MIcnMopJe .,peuuce
The cross-teCtion of Orion ~ a distinctive do, bone or dumb beD
shape.
PropertIes of 'Orloa'
"OrIon' is well knoW1l for ~ SO~UdOUI hand. It is warm and
pIeasiq to the touch. Staple Able of 'OrIon' adds a feelina and
appearance of luxu1 to ~t8 a relatively low cost.
..... ., . . hi
Orion burns lite cotton, rayon and acetate, leaving a residue similar
to that of acetate. It does not faDite easily, however, some orIon
fabrics sputter as they bum, the ftame almost dies out momentarily
then ftares up and resumes bumina witJl COIItmuous alternate dying
down and Oaring up. 'I1lis manner of burning can be danaerous if one
is unaware of this possibi1~ The safe ironina temperature is 300- F.
aid tllfaltt
Odoo ... outstandiog resistarx:e to the eft'ect of Jight. I~ to
s1ICh degradation makes it especially useful for such outdoor purposes
~awnings, curtains, draperies aad uniforms

.......... to~ .....

MIldew ma, fl the surface, but it will have no effect 00 Orion
ra~. It may be ~ lriPfd off. Orlon is unafl'ected by moths or by
carpet-beetles

.
Medla fp aIbJIes ... HIlls
Orion baa fair to aood resistaaoltto weak. alkalies. Orlon ia exceedingly
raiataDt tb strong mineral adds as weJJ as orpnic acids.

~ to penplra...
Orlon fabrics are not readily deteriorated perspiration but the colour
may be aft'ected.
AIIIItJ for . .
OrIon can be dyed in a wide range 01 cOlours and "es.
u..
OrIon has taken over a large part of the sweater lIlIi!ket and is being
used aloae or in bIeDda in many types of knitted .~. Printing of
sweater and ,;e.., fabrics has been SDGIIIIf'a. It is used in dresses as

is..
blooa, aaits aad coats. W~ fteec:e coating material has been
made from orion becaUlOJ(.- bulk warmth and 1iPt weiaht. Orion

100
1IIe4 in makina simulated for coats. Permanently pleateel
_ _ bile skirts of orion aDd wool bl. . . . ..,. . . . . to bt ...,

Orion bas been popular in tile dothina iadustry tez1iIe fDmiI1IIDa

and industrial area. Bec::a. . it has beea fOUllCl fIIiat lWftiWI .....
of Orton teed to dariak &ad cfitcolour ia dry eJeaidus, .., ate
satisfactorily cared for by ........... with water.
ofOrioa
is an easy care fabric. OrIon r..,rica do BOt loil or at ...u".
WaslbinJl or drycleaninl renews their freshness. It. mild soap sbouW,
IlOw.:ver. be used in Jaunderiua. since strons soaps win damaae OrIon.
aollscllloid bleaches may be safely ued.
Soft, bulky OrIon yams will pUL To reduoe thiI teadeacy, IUCh
ljIrmenu as sweaters aIloa1d be lauadered. wlaile tur1Ied ..... oat
as little rubbiDp as possible. After riDsiog throoP aiW . . .
thea in lubwarm water, squeelle out the _ler, hIIB die aar-t
ont, spread it on a towel aact patty bruaIt Ii' willa . , .eft
dryiD,.
"*1 while
of OrIon to pill is redaced
fibres.
w_
Thoroqh riJuiaa after wubina is ..,..... TIle
it is bIeaded WitJl aaoa

Orion fibre should be ironed with a moderately hot ir08; ~ may

.y
ironed while dry.
li'IIIreB....
Ita
_ ~ I f1.?;
deairable properties that . ., be iIapertod to .......
IilliDtlainiJlI fibres other than Orion, depencliDJ on die _tift amauat
each fibre used.
ORLON ANI) COn'ON
In combination with cotton, orIon adds Jiaht weight and body. The
contributes strensth and ablorbency. The fabric is 1IIiKJo.
. .ant, retaiDa its shape well, and provides easy care. A ~ of
per cont or more of orIon with cotton win provide tho ,,:la1
IanlCtensucs of a wash and wear fabric, such a it UMcI for IpOI1B

OIlLON AND WOOL

Ono of the outstanding cbauacteristk:s of Orloa it ill . . . 10 that
the staple iI blended widl wool, the resnltiDf, fabric .Is Qaht-
aDd yet warm. It alao haa a soft haod bat thoro may Ito IOlIIO
Fabrics of &Ilia cambi_doo have very JOOd a'IIM retmdi.oa
wriDtIe rocevery. no- Wenda are........we. WMre tm
propodioD of orion, tIao rabrica aekIom aced preaiDa. A &oed
for wash aad wear tai1orecl ....... a1aoulcl._60 , . QCAt
more orion willa tho wool, thoaP -.0 JUdl oriola ~ ...
-101
 ..... tOO....,. _ .l1c!iiI""
.........
fal1dD.

0II0a ...
he _ _ _ dIiIa .. aIf..WOeI

....... hdnv. . . . . 4,................

s.oJa
to tile........
.-."..."., ~"""'''''''''''''lDackIItiDIi
anIIllr,rtiOD an- JoDa WIU'. Tho 0d0D

__
comiIl.11 . . . . .
.... ......,....
~oa...
CIWJII ~ ~YON
.
. . .....,. ntatioa; die _~
the Mdc II _, reeiIiiIlt aIIld.., 1Je

T~ 1M . . . . . , of . , . , Orioa adds WI'iaMI ,,"ace ad

.......,. New ID4 _1iaI _,_ aa4 4ye6cta, iacIudiaI--
.... ,..... Odaa,........ __ ..........
.,~

lid ............ lIaYeat l1li&10 percE'" with tIao.,..

A ....

0rI0a ...... wItIl a ................ ra,oo wit JlOUIe ........

............. .... ';:.181 propeatIIa .. tIaat 01 ..... wid&. . . .
,.,..Aa .............. ..,.
lower proportiOB or Orloa.
bIeacI coaI4 dMntonr, . . . a

__ AMo.arrATI
A comlJiutioa of Odoa aacI acetate ia a fabric provides &oft,
Iuurioas feel aad aceUeat drapability. It also ... aceIlebt IIIape
........ ad .... _hire...... faladc ....... euilywitllmUt
,.,aa4 __ ...., MIa napidlJ, UcI.CIUJ to iron. The 0rIDD
..., . . . . . . . . ~ to aunfiaht. Neither orIoaaor ......
howe. ., II parIioDIad1 ahIorbeot, which prdfeata. cIia4. .tIIp iD
~ taQlllict weather. Sada bloada wit be wanD aDd clam.,.
_ _ AlII) IIYI.OM
De ItftDIIIa ........... ,....,._ of ayloD c:oalJiaecl with tile
....Iuiia lad ...eo..... , . . or 011_ prodace attIaciCtfe, ....,
..................... 488Iitiea or odOll_ IIJIoD. lucia II ~
..ill. . . CIe8II teteatioa. ad easy care, In iacrcued wbea . . .
. . ate CGIDbIaed. But . - fIbticurOI DOt be wry abIorbeat.

Odoa _0_
_ _ ARDPCIL~
tM baad or. fabdo ..... COIIIIiDecI widl. ,..,.
. . lin, . . . . . . . . bOdy comfort W WItiiil1i. ne
poIJ .t.f
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wrtraIIe ...... _ ..,.,...., .....
. . . . ......... W5Dl501IIIIII .................... . .

.... "'.""16...'_''''' ................. _

.......~ IIIIIIDIa fIIIID ....., _......, __ til

~..." .........,." afII"", fl e....

 Tho proceuiD, of AcriJaD is IIimiJH to that 01 orIoII. Nac.at ...
air are combioed to fona aIDIIIOIIia. A..... ad .aaral . .
combined to produee h)Wocyuio acid. 'HatuI.al,.. at . . . . .
_~atures produces acety1eae that, whea . . . . . . . . . tIJdro.

perJzed. This pol,acrylODitrile in po__

r &lVlllDlC acid, produces acryloaitrilc. Thta die acryloDitrill it poly..

rODD is diIeoi\rocI by
IiUitable solvent and passed throuah ~ aDd 1JDlib otJoo
fibre (which is emuded jato air where it JIardou), AcrIaD
is formed in a coapJatiDa bat1a to produce oolMi.QOQI fUInaeNI.
tibres, produc::ed in a semi-d1ll1, briaht, or lOlutioIHyecl varietiIt,
then washed, stretched aad crimped.

BASIC FBATUIlES COMMON TO MOST THEJlMOPLASl1C PDIIlBS

No ..... of hoIeIdae to qitatioa or

abrIIioa dariD8 wuhfDa or .......
:Maintaiaa air space lot warmtb. ......
Ibape .... 1tNtddb&. Aft'ecCa ......
ddpe, 1'eIiIieacy
.4~
1. IleIhta IP04I; ClUJ to NIDOW.
2. WubabIe.
3. Drill qaktIy.
D....""",.,
1. Diftlcalt to d,.,.
2. Builds up.fade elecuicifJ ......
HIah clurabI1ity to pulJiDa aocI rabbiDa
10 wear.
Not rapidly dlaUoyed by ..... aJbIitI,
bIeacIIeI. cleteqeatl. Non-bazudoaa
atiD irritant.
Me1ts wItb (I) bot.iroa; (2) bot toWIcco
aabes; (3) CootacI with _ bot object.
wmbep:
1. Crush NIiataat pile
2.~""
3. Oriliaal- aa4 abape

......
4. KDita do DOt aoed

S. I!.mboIM c1esipa.
t.a. wriatIoa easily.
~aftIr

SimpUlee ....... ........

BcoaoaIJ 01 UtdI ... &om .....
-.
Cue ........
The foUowiDl augeatioDa should prove helpful in c:arinl for prmenu
or other articles made of fabrics containinS nylon, orIon, terene or
dacron, poIyesterlbRs:
1. Wash whites only with other whites.
2. Wash in warm water (lOO"F) asiDa a synthetic detergent or soap
pIns or a water softener.
3. Dainty blouses or any garment with frqiJe trim is best washed
by hand and drip-dried on a DOn-stainial hanler. Do not wrinl
or crush UDD_ _riIy in washing.
4. When 'touchap' pressing is desired, it can be done quickly and
easily, using a steam iron or dry iron at the rayon or nylon
setting.
H . . . .. . ,
CUTl1NG Use weI1sharpened shears. Cut with the middle of the
blade, usiDglong clean strokes.
PINS AND NlllDLIIS N~ and pins both for machine and hand
sewing should be fine with sharp smooth points. It is best to change
the machine needle often as man-made fibres du11 _ needle more
rapidly than do natural fibres.
'J'IIlUW) It is best to use thread that has the same quality as the
fabric to be stitched. Thread should be cut, not be broken to avoid
pulled seams.
SEWING Run sewing machine slowly and evenly. Hold fabric firmly
witheut pullinf. Be sure aU.the linings, tapes are fully shrunk: and or
washable conStruction.
PU8SlNG Each seam should be pressed on the wrong side aCtor
stitching. '1t is im~rtant to U80;OW temperature about 2SOO F at the
rayon or Dylon setting on automatic irons.

MINERAL FIBRES (NATURAL AND MAN-MADE)

The textile industry makes use of three minerals: asbestos, which is

a natural fibre, JIass and metaUics whidl are man-made. These fibres
behave dift'erently from all other fibres, yet the natural and man-made
fi.1ns have some ~CI in common. They d~flot burn and if
they melt they do so o~ at very high temperatures mach above those
oldinlrily encountered" textile fabrics. Glass and asbestos are not
attacked by chemicals. All tho three fibres have specialised uses and
Cl8Idlot be used ~ with most other textile fibres. All three
are inorpnic and their atrocture is n91 typical of the long chain mole-
cule orpnic fibres.
104 '
 ASBBSTOS

Asbestos is ibrous rock and the oaly oaturaDy occurrina miaeta1

I\Sllatt)S bas been famed for centuriet; for its non-humin. qualities.
earliest times it has been regarded as a textile fibre. Bady leaeads
of the lamps of the temples to the vestal virsins of ancient Greece
kept ever burning and wbose wicks of carpasian liDen were BOt
ilUUlIl\l1lIIIiN by fire. This carpasian linen is supposed to laave beee mD

asbestos mixed in cyprus. According to historians, a well bown

of the early use of asbestos as a textile is that of Charle-ane's
cloth which was made of asbestos. Often he mystified his &. .
the meal was over by throwing the table cloth into the fire Qd
1h'tIi.,.,ina it out clean. One time when his country was threatened with
fn_!l:inn by savage hordes of Barun-at-Rasheed, Emperor of the Bast,
~rlelllJ8g11le called a peace conference to hear the demuds of WI
and durina the course of the CODference tossed the tablo cloth
the fire and drew it out unharmed. The ambassadors were COIl-
that they were dealing with a great masicia.n and advjsed
"'1ID-1Ll-1<~&SIILeea not to invade Charlemagne's country. Asbestos
known in Canada as early as 1850 and was discovered commer-
aboutM60. There i. proof that it was spun and woven by
as early as 1724.
1Ia~.1e a,,.,..,.
the microscope asbestos fibre appears straight, smooth and
sbaped.

.-estos dyes easily but the colour is likely to be spotty and have
fastness. The fibres are coarse and have little streoatll. Short
of high temperature (over 60Cr F) will further decreaae its
rreD.8tIl. It is absorbent and it baa wictiDa ability. .

_ stos is acid and alkali resistant, therefore, it is important for

~1ICti<)Jl equipment, filters for chemk:aIs aacl other industrial pur-
It it used for 8aJDe..proof clotbiD, of. .y kinds for laboratory,
. .trial and mDi1ary uses. It ;, usocl ia aD types of protective equip-
for fire fiptiDls fire ~ .....tioo for steam and hot pipes,
liDiDas, insulative buDding matiaJs, tapes and braids for
uses and items w~ aoa-combustibitity is "WeDtiaJ.
105
AIheItoI is aIJo ueed with llasa abre in matina decorative fabrics for
eurtaiaI aad dJaperies for hospitals, tIleaten. Hbraries, schools, aDd
odIer public buildiap ad for heat iluuJadoa.

G~SFJBRES

Glass fibJ'ea are outstandiq a~ODJ textile fibres, both natural aad
synthetic, as they have very biah tensile strenJtb in the neiahbourhood
of 213,000 lb. per sqpre inch, immunity to micro-orpnisma c:ausina
mildew and deteriotltion, very hiah resistance to chemic:als and com-
plete fire..proofneas. ~e drawbeck of the 11ass fibres is their lack of
resiliency and ability to stretch. They are not soft to the touch, and
break if bent to a areat extent, and hence are not poerally suitable
... cJotJUas commodity.
Come fibles were first prepared in 1893 by drawin, the heated ends
of .... rods. In 1900 a number of patents were issued in Germany
and Boatand, but till 1931 ntlsuccess was achieved to have fine fibres
which could be easily wovelimto fabrics. In 1936, fibres were prepared
which were pliable enouah to be woven into aU....... fUrlc:a which
creased and folded. Owens-Cornina Pibrealus Corporation started the
maaaf'aeture of &lass fibre materials.
 ~."lcdoIIv
.-..-re. mitIDa aad _tiD, of,."
0 .....1ns"1IIited to . . . . . pDfpOIet are .,.....,.. by . . . .
~ by ....,., .
ud their proportiollt. by ........ tile . .,..... ad ..,
......

~lIiDa tile ...........

purpose fot which the a-

The primary iapctieats for the various types or..... are .........
:aad UmestoDe. Ia addition, otJaer miaerals are 1I8Id, ac:cor4iq to the
titn. are to he 1IIed.
GIats meat for eJectrical appliaaces witIa aood dIemicaI teliltaace
_ d hiah durability is a boroIilicate ..... coataiDiDa ao aIbJi ....
odes. It is uecf oaIy in coatinuOUI aad staple toxtiJe Ibrea. OllIs
meant for chemical appliaaca aach .. filter cloths is produced ..., in
atapJe fibre form. The borosilicate a.... is ueed for tJaerma1 iPAdation
and acoustical use. Soda-Jime-sili<:ate aJau ildesiped for Ule ill tho
orm of retatively coarse filter fibres.
The inaredients are melted in the fumac:e and the molten .....
eomes in finct jets from tho base of the fumace. Jets of hiah prcuure
...earn or hot air bit tbe jets of molten aIass with terrific force aDd
yank them into thread-lib fibres.
The fibres in the form of fteecy and resiJiont mass are UJed for
thermal insulation applic:ations. For odIer purposes It may be treated
.nth a binder compressed and shaped into rigid or semi-riJid board&.
For the manufacture of textile fibres, tile molten atau is traDlfemd
to a marble-forming machinery which makes small aIass marbles about
518 inches inI\lIameter These are then remelted in electric fnrnacet.
c.tiIMas &Ia.1IIt ,1'OCeII
the continuous filament process more thaD 100 ftJaments are drawa
. . gathered into a strand which il attached to a high apoecl winder
redudna the diameter of each filament. From a ainale marblo
" bout 170,000 yards 10118 a siDaIe IlameBt en be drawn. 1'be strands
could be drawn to indefinite lengths, I'UIlIIiDa to thousands of mileL
'1bese fine filaments are twisted and plied to form Jams by methods
similar to those used for makin, other continuous fiJameat yams.
nose yams are used for such tabrica as curtains and draperiea.
_ _ Ie 81tre ,rocetI
ia the staple process, the molten ..... 86.. in tiliD 8tleams tbrouah
p DaIl holes in tbe base of the furnace aDd is ItnlCt by jets of hiah
"lUte, loapr
air or steamwhich yank the &)ass iato fibres of 8 to 15 inches
thIIl the best long-stapiecottOlL The .bdI are dIi1ea
owa on to a revolYiaa -dram, tbroup a spray or fib!e 11Ibric:ant aad
flame, on which they form a 1eil membliq a cobweb. The web
fibres is then ptherod iato a sUver w1lic1l fa Jiabt1y drafted in tile
" cceedin& wiDdina operatioB, 10 tat the IIIIjority of die Ahrea lie
107
pnIIeJ wi.. the Jeaath of the strand. SPud. of continuo.. fiJameDts
or ttapIe fibres are twisted and plied ioto yams on tatile 'MChiaery
simiJar to that uaed for tottoDS Mid worated yams. Pabrics woven
from continuous filament yarns are thin, smooth. ancIlustrous. Fabrics
woven of staple yams ave a sliahtly fuzzy appearaace and are less
lustrous. 1be yam thus produced U primarily used for tapes and fabrics
for industrial purposes where iD....tioa is .needed.
The teGsite strengfh of standard Gbreslass textile fibres is of the order
of 200,000 lb. per square inch. TIle tensile strength increases as the
fibre diameter decrea" The fibres have no stretch and they are

Marble. remelted

ConttnuoUI ftlam.nt..

\ SIZing appU.d

I'lo. 3.6 Sehemadc ttiapemme of die (ormation 0( fibnsIasa filament

from marbIeI

dimeDsioDally stable. They are l'CSistant to l'U8t, rot.aodmildew. They

are only dectcd by hydrotluoric and phosphoric acids.
Tbe fabrics are dyed by paddina them with the pillDeDted emulsions
of water-ia-oil type OIl a two-roUer or ~oUer padder of tho same
type as that used for cotton fa)Ib.
101
 Pi...... is the Itroagest of an &QtiIe fibres and DOt afI'ecaed by
pet'8I1iratiOD.
Siace ..... fabrica will DOt sbriDt or stretdl ad are proof aaai.
JDOtha, mildew ad decay, theJ aN suitable for drapery ...... hi
the Ilome. This woalel be ~y trao of . .-shOre hOIDII where
aIt, air aad atroaa RDlipt have . . . . . e8'ect OIl _ _ of. . more
COIDIDOD drapery ..aerials and ..,. . . . Jmmidity oftoa c:aua , _
to stretcll .... One bia -'WIDtaae of ..... tabricl OYer others II tbIt
tMy are iDcoaatn.tible. 'Ibey are therefan.1J8CIul for draperiea u well
u c:eiIiDa and wall eo.eriDp in niaht chJba, restanraatl, ICbooIa,
railroads, sIlIpa, airpJaDta where theA is Ire hu.ard.
u..
In the wool form it is UIOd for thermal iDauJation aad IQUDd ~
don. In the mat form it is used for atoraae, battery retainer mats,
aconstbl surfaciD., filtration {CinforCOlDlllt for olectrical o.aJatina
pIutica. In the Corm of tapes b...... aDd cloths it is used for electrical
insuJadon. JUab tcmperatule incIastriaI tatiJes, reinf01'Celllflllt in 1ami-
nates, plastics, etc., chemical ftltl1ltion aad decorative C~ R.ubber
or reaincoatecl aJasa Cabriw are used for tarpaulins and waterproof' .
cervera for madliDeries, water-proof CODtaiaen for delicate instruments.
etc.
Fibre J)ass fabria are easily cleaned, .ace tbey may be .))ODIed
with pad aad water.
P,tRE GLASSll\ROUND THE HOUSE

PIG. '.1 lIIIcIdc .....

110
 UIeIor _h"
aIass fabrics wiD be limited to IPOCiII procluotl
~X1Ia, shower curtaiDa, bed Ipreada,. .". . . . lamp ......
dreasiDa ia stores or upJaoJstery fa.... ad wearIDIapnL
falIdc, however, ja not 10ft to tho toUL It Jacb ..."_,, ....
abitity to stretch, aDd breIb if heat to a . . - - . ad .....
Dot suitable as a dothiaa CODUBOdity.

MBTALLICS
is a manufactarod are composed oC metal, plude CCIUecl
metal coated plastic or a core compIotety ccmnd by .....
111
 AIItIllits .
MetaUk yams have heea tnowa for hundreds of years. They were in
tact. the first maa.made threads. Civilizations for thoUl8Dds of years
eapaed in hand weaving with patterns of silver and goM threads.
TIle use of the tesa precious . I s such as alumiDium and copper are
of relativeiy recoat origin.
To a majority of persoD8 .m the West, the expresaion '1ndiu
embroidery- invanvly sugeats gold and silver wort. Marco Polo
spealcing of India wIta, 'Here are elaborate diverse cloths in ,old
and silver of great ,ravery'. The rich stuJrs of Babylon broupt from
India in the good .Id days of King Solomon were, in all probability,
gold brocades from Ahmedabad, Benaras 8.Ild Murshidabad. Bven to-
day, Benaras- 'lcinkhabs' or gold brocades are world famous. Here
gold and silver wires are used lavishly to work out deticate patterns.
TIley are indeed the most gorgeous and highly omamented of Indian
textiles. Some of the Cavotfite motif. on brocades are 'sacred aeese'
aDd aaimal patterns in band1. The art of brocade-weaviDa bas survived
the ravages of time. and maay varieties are prod""',b)th for the
home and Coreign markets.
Metal thread is also worked OD 'jamdanj' of figured musUns.
St*king of these, Watson has rightly said: 'With all our machinery
and wondrous appliances, we have hitherto been unable to produce a
fabric which, for ftneDell and utility. can equal the woven mustins of
Da~'.
Any of till ductile -Is, ,ucla as gold, silver, copper or even the
cheaper alloys, can be drawn out into fine filaments.
Today,' metal threads are usually made with a core of cotton yam
wrapped within a tibon ofmJ. Gold thread ('J{uIJabuttoon') and
silver wire is used for rkher fabrics.
Imitation gold and silver wires are also prevalent, but they get
'tarnished easily.
Pure and iGlitation metal threads aro used on jamdanis. These
fabrics may be called loom tapes1Cios. 1be pattel'DS are inserted by
hand as the waving proceeds, which itWs the embroidered effect. A
tiny bobbin witla colour of gold or silver thread is passed through and
round the warp or threads in the manner of tapestries. 'Panna-hazara'
or a thousand jewels, 'dorakata' or a stripe, patterns 'tomar' with
sprays of lowen, chevrons, and geometrioal patterns are some of the
favourite designs in jamdanis.
Modem metallic yarns in the United States are generally made of
coloured aluminium ribbons sand~ between two layers of trans-
pareat pJutic. Aluminiam_,tlw basiC metal used, is softer, tiPtoe ia
wa,ht cJaeaper tbaii the JDOIO pnlfiquI metaJt and .iI aot 10 ..,.
ua
 tarnish or cause discolooratfoa. Gold, sIIYer IIICl copper ooJoaa of
are availabJo .. weD as a rainbow ~ of ...... . , oaIoaed
to ICI'VO many purpoeea IUCh ., , . . . . apparel. ~
",~p, car upholcstery aacI ~ PIChsfna .....
M.dallb are not Area bat Baht weiaJat aoa-tarniIIIab1iD _ nJati
iBeJ.pensi~ yams. All are briaht. Tbo Itreqth ftdei the
~ of film and the width of yam. Acetate and acetate butyrate

yams are usually pUed with another tuti1e Able for

_1UDg and other types of procr-ina. Pol,.. flIms are md
wca'"
_aiDa1a are quite weak, do not blot, do CII8iIy and tear readily. So

:~DDlier than acetate .films aad caa be used aaaupported for wee. .,
'1:Di1_ and processing eftll on power looms aad kDiUiDl mldUos.
also lie and bot more readily. They bale conaIde.rabJe~.
t_i1imcy and e1onption. AU metana are eeaaitive to abraion _
,.10...... Heat ~ of amate 11m \$ lo-w. thm:fotO, 1Udl,ama
be processed at low temperatures and fabrics containiDl tIaem
be washed and ironed at low temperatures. The pol,.. type
metallic yarDS can 10 throush repIar processina. iIlcIucIiDs wet
dry-finishina and dyeinl without harm. Polyester AJm-decorated
caD withstand vuJcaDizinl without harm to tIie metaDio yam.
yarn can withstand bleachinl bIlt dry cleaners are ad'Visecl to tarn
artides and garments with metallic yarns inside out whell cJcanina
processig.
Metallics E e insect, moth, mildew and rot resistant and ~mp1etely

_tallies haft been used in carpets and rap, upholstery aacI drapery
:A"riMt slip covers, tablecloths, and placements, towels, aDd curtaiD
.brb, bed-spreads shower curtains aad pillow eases.
III die apparel field there are few items in wIIich metallic yaras ha~
DOt appeared.
A 1arle amount ot metallic yam has IODO into automotive uphol-
They also appear in radio and tele"sion set anUs. theatre
CD11ains and eye staas frames. The 1IdlitaJy uses them for tadar
CJgJ:amllNlllg, braid for uniforms aad tow tarsets.
A whole new &eld of 'exotic' malerials has lrilllll to meet the
ri.l~rnlll. requirements associated with IpMe esploratiOD and other
developments of tho &Ie. BxperiIDeldal wort is gains ahead on
fron1&. The IJus and ceramic fibres aDd metal ano,s are bebIa
lincludcMl in the experiments.

...J
 RUBBER
Rubber is a manufactured 4bre in wJlich the fibre f011lliq substaace
is comprited of natural and syuthetic rubber. Although rubber is not
a true dIormopJastlc fiber it is heat aeasitive and requirn .much tho
same c::are as the thermop1a~ fibres. The fibres are commonly called
elastic .fibres or yams.
III 1925 scientists at the U.S. Rubber Company discovered that raw
rubber liquid could be emuded as a round thread of almost any
desired fiDeoess aodfhen cured to maintain this shape. Latex is a
CODstttJCtod rubber ;am around which are wound filaments of rayoD,
silk, wool, cotton Or synthetics. The yams are woven or knitted into
fabrica in which elasticity and close conformance to the body is desired.
The distinctive properties of latex are as fol1ows:
1. The fabrics stretch in III directions.
2. The latex core will retain its elasticity throughout the useful life
of the prment.
3. The yarn can be macki fine eoouah to be woven iDto deUcate
fabric8 as laces, nets, voiles and batistes.
ai. Latex conforms to the body contours which ens1ltes smoothly
.fiJJiD. ptJDeDts.
5,\ The rubber is not noticeable to the eye and no odour is discernible.
6. Latex i, not a.fl'ected by washing and can be pressed with a
moderately warm iron. Chlorine bleach turns the yarn yellow.
Latex is milky laid obtained from the Rubber tree by cutting the
bart and co1llctiDg the fluid from the wound. Ammonia and some
other type of preservative are added and the latex is packed for export.
The priJl9ipal soun:es of the lictuid material an: Malaya and the
~ Dutch East Indies.. t#
The round filalDe.t of latex can be extruded as fine as human hair.
The fiIaIneat is c-aalated in an acid bath and then vulcanized or
liven a permanent set by means of heat aided by this catalyst. Latex
owes its superior 1enath of life to this vulc:anisatiOD.
A thin coatiD& of lata to the backs of rup and carpets serves to
~t alippiDa and biDda the yarDS to 4e base. It is also nsed to
cemeat garment seams, reinfon:e seaJU of fur coats, close food con-
tainen and wator-proof paper aod fabric. Rubber slippers, rain coats
and similar water-proof articles are made from latex.
U_ for latex aIIo include foundation garments, elastic hose tops
of men', socks, sUflical biadiDp, swim auits, stretchable trimmiDgS.
THE ALGINATBS
The UDited K.iqdom is tJ-. 0DJy couatry produciug the fibre-ca1clum
1:14 -
 wJnch is made ftom tile __ of the _weaL 0.
coDStitueata of all seaweecJs is ..... add. Siace tIaiI is a
it is a potetltial 80UIW of 8bre. AJaiaic add was tnt floWed
1883 by a British chemist UIDCId s.ford whea Iae dieoownd
the Yiacous material of certain . .WIICl coaJcl be ~ ad
IwiJpitated. But tho flnt pateat for a proc:esa to aIIape . . . . . . .
a filament form was issued to Saruoa (Oermay) ia 1!n2.
mnJVel'. eft'orts to develop alaiaate fibres llave beea CODGeDtratecI; in
Alainato fibm are produced in tho followina steps: (I) collcctiD&
and milliDg the seaweed; (2) tRatiD, tho material witll IOdium
llid)ooate to produce a thick pIatiaous mas. of aodiuIIl aJainete;
filtering the mass; (4) bJeachiag it with sodJ1pa hypochlorite;
spinning the lIament on a ~ apinDing system; and (6) coaau-
it in a bath COIltaining IIIIIa1f amounts of calciwa c.bIori4e.
iYdr,ochiloJic acid and cationic &pIlt to prevent filament adllesioa.

,_tant
t:aIc:ium algiDate Abtea have two aotabl. properdDa: They are S.
and dissolve quietly in very weak sotutiou or aIbUs. 0'WlIl
washiD. with ordiaary soap. It is this n. .tive t.ctor wbidl hal
the alginate fibres particularly useful in Great BritaiD. They are
with wool or other fibres or used as core )'UDI, .own or bIttm
fabrics ~ dissolved out in the ftnishiDl process. Jemq aheeI;w
which would be impmcticable to make otberwiIe. When alai-
fibres are used in background fabrics for Jacea, embroideries, etc.,
are washed out after the processes have been completed, JeniaI
open mesh lace and embroidery stnIctule. TIle ...... yarDI .-e
used as spacin. yarns in open patterned fabric ad washed opt
the finishing process. Alginate yams are also beina used as a carry-
yam in hosiery and fabric milia and as IIDJ1ical dressiDp. It bas
found that alginate acts as an agent which arrests bleediDg aDd
an absorbable film over the wound, ac:celeratina the ""'ina.
fJ)e:nwltS sometimes use it to fill the cavities after extractins teeth. 'Ibis
the bleeding and the fibres may be left in place and e'elltuaDy
disslolvc into the blood stream. With the present abundance of other
there seems little reason to expect that much more wiD be done
alginate fibres in the field of textiles. unless some new discovety
~hlaD~es the picture.

PAPER YARNS

, another cellulosic yarn, is used as a fabric for a number ottextile

US


!
J

116
ia 1 iii
.r i
j.. t~ 11 Ji
""';I
.. 1
j
8
-0

II It Ii
~ts

117
 furaiahiag and apparel purpo8eI ia 4cwc1oped COOIltries. These ate
aeaeraJly non-weMII fabric:8 aacJ soun:eB for semi-disposal artieles.
Today. many tadle IIIiIIa . . ...... in research on paper textiles
for the producticMa.of ~ .04 dotlae. Por many years we
have used wovea paJet ,.ra tabdca of open construction in brighdy
coloured strOBl_ .... u" for transporting fruits and garden pro-
duce to mar., atrcl J'IIII, ."omobile seat covers and seat cushions,
hats and IuuKl .....
Paper may be 4Iilt into atrips wet aDd twisted to form yams and
woven or bitted other yarns.
Th_ paper yada fabrics take dyes readily and generally have good
colour fastness. Tliey are dimeDSioDally stable. Their softness is largely
controlled by the addition of wetting agents. Paper yarns cost less
than half as much as cotton yams of the same size. They will be used
mainly in dispoeable articles.

,.
1

til"
UI
 CHAPTER. ..

Structure of Fabrics

authorities maintaiD that weaviDg was in use some 6,000 yean

Christ, while others say tbat it was Dot practised earlier tbaa
B.C. But regardless of its age, we bow that the principles of
_lWIIl were knoWD to primitive man. He knew bow to make bubta
mats by iDter-Iacing twigs, reeds and grasses. Later he teamt how
twist toa. r short fibres, suc:h as wool aDd cottoD to form yam,
weaye Cloth for clothiDgud home UIO, OD a loom. These primi-
looms, however, were devised by usiag , convenient horizoDteJ
~.IM,;U of a tree oyer which the warp threads were tied. The lower
were fasteDed to stoDes to hold them iD positioR.
Our ancients of the Indus Yaney were experts in the art of weaving.
~ftllIIUIIIK the discoveries at MoheJJjodaro are many aeodlea of bronze

. ,~,

_.

Pro. U Spiaaiq and w.... in the AacieDt BIJpt. (n.1ooaa 8PJIIUI co .,.
Wdic:aI owioa to leek of perapecthe 10 the drawiq). (PIIoto: ~
M-.,lIa4aII.),
-~a~nd copper. The spinning wheels and other implements for spmning
and weaving that have been excavated in this old site are very much
like those used to-day. All this indicates that finely-spun yarns must
have been manufactured during those days.
The mummy doths that have been unearthed in the Pyramids bear
witness to the fact that Egypt was another country where the art of
weaving reached a high standard at a very early age.

I. YARN CONSTRVCTIONS

Textile fibres
The raw materials for the weaving or knitting of fabrics and garments
are yarns Dr threads, suitable for the articie to be produced. A yarn
is a strand of fibres laid or twisted together by a process calleospin-
-ning. Yarns may be made from anyone or a mixture of the many
different natural and man-made textile fibres, now available in the
world. Each of these fibres bas its own characteristic properties and
each is therefore best suited for the particuhr end use of the woven
cloth. Cotton is known for its absorbency, wool for warmth, silk for
feel and appearance. In the range of man-made fibres, cellulosic rayon
yarns are nearest to the natural fibres, although they cannot fully
replace them. They have a silky feel and appearance. Similarly, the
synthetic fibres have each their own intrinsic properties such as
strength, lustre, crease resistance, handle and draping properties. Mix-
tnres of these llIItural and mlln-made fibres have enabled the spinner
to produce a stilI wider variety of yarns and fabrics for domestic and
industrial uses of today.
When a weaver selects a yarn folta fahric, he looks for such charac-
teristic properties as thickness of the yarns, its evenness and cleanli-
ness, its strength and elasticity, its twist, etc. Each of these properties
may add to or impair the quality of the fabric which is required to
be woven. In short, the first requirement for quality fabrics is the use
of quality yarn.
Yam making
Yarns nsed for weaving or knitting, may either be in the form of
continuous filaments or in the form of staple-short fibres twisted
together.
FILAMENTS The continuous filaments of pure silk are extruded
from the mouth of the silk worm and wound round a cocoon. Simi-
larly, viscous liquids are made to squirt out of small jets or orifices to
obtain filaments of rayon and synthetics. These filaments are smoother
and more regular and lustrous .than the twisted yarns.
120
 YAItNS Looae and eataoaled fibres of vary. . . . . . . . . . .
...._ are am sepaaUed,
aDd Dod for uaifomity.
IbreI are thoa.ltIafahtcaed cnat.
fllllDidM~ drawn out into. repe- _ _iii"
form, aad thea iato. t1daDer

_l- and still furtIaer m.cl

to bind the fibres topther
sive the yarD the DOOIIUaIY
1leD&tIL Depending on the number
IrtiJimlI laid in the Cl'088-sectioa
yaru, aDd tIlefinenea of1ho
yams may be.,... coarser PIo.42 Yam . .
finer to suit the qualities 01 cloth to _ WOWD.
For carrying out the various processea men1ioaed above, a wide
of di1f'erent types of madliaes sad a peat ftIiItJ tJI IIIItIIadI
used. Some of those proocaeea &Ie bon u opeaiaa. mt&iJW,
"<I~, combing, drawiq, apkmina, etc. The impoItaDt ~
IJIOjpertiea of yams dneDd Jarply _ how these proc..... ere caaied
A hand spun yarn, for .iastuco, QUUIO& be comparod . .til
,,*1bDe .pun yams, because of the limited Dumbor of ~ ...
crudo methods that an: naed.
MOlt of our Wftics an: made froID yams with ordiaary twist. This
the amount neceasary to hold the fibres close eaouah ~ to
DIe~'ent them from slipping apart. and th. .tseaath is aNea to die
The amount of twist is JDfIUured by tho muabor or twiIta )or
(t.p.i.):
Low twiat m (). 3 t.pj.
Ordinary twist is 3- 7 t.p.i.
High twist is 7-12 t.p.i.
Tho twist in the yam may be put
either to the right-Z or the
'Mlt-i:S. The poaUIon of the fibrea
the yarns indicates whether the
is S or Z twilt. ReJulM' weav-
yams are usually Z twist.
twist-DirectiOD to twist in yarn
or cord which corres-
ponda to letter S.
twist-Direetion of twist in yam
or cerci whioh corres-
ponds to letter z. ......., .... z .......
121
o..a.r,,....
0rdiBary yams as distillct &om 'Novelty' or CPaDey' yams, are
those spun from any of the natural or man-made fibres, bot which are
regular throughout their length in tJaeir phyaic:al properties.
One ordinary yarD may difl'er fiom another in the material that
tiu been used, in fineness, strength, twist, appearaoce, etc. They are
commonly distinguished by their nuinbers whid! indicate their fineness
OJ'thic:bess. These numbers are termed 'COUDts' in the aue of cotion
yarns; 'denier' jn the ~ siJk, rayon and synthetiCS; and 'shin' in
the case of wool.
A C<J8lSer yam is ,enezaJly stronger than a fiDer yarn. StleDJth and
exteasibility or yams depend on the physical properties of the fibres.
the number of fibres in the cross-section of the yarn and the number
of turns or twists inserted in the spinning of the yarn.

NMeItJ ... faaey , . . .

When yams of dift'erent colon aDd thickness are twisted toaether,
there is no intimate intermiDgiing of the fibres, &0 that eas:h colour or
)IBID j, seen separately. The threads are twisted tosether to biiat the
coatinuity of the resultant yllD and produce dect. which are out of
the ordiaary. DiJl'ereut counts, colours aDd 81so diB'erent materials are
combined in various ways in these 'fancy' yarns. In the 'grandrelle',
'spiral', and 'simp' yarns, the colours of the yarns appear resularly:
whereas ie the 'curl', 'bop' and 'slab' yams, a separate colour of
yarD can be seen tlominently at intervals.
OUNDULLB YUNS arc composed of two or more dift'erently
coloured threa41s twisted together.
SI'IIAL YARNS are composed of tw~ds twisted tightly toaethcr
rouncl which a' soft spun thread is twisted spirally.
'<lIMP YARNS consist of a central hard twisted thread and a 19ft
span thread, which is Jiven in more rapidly than the centre thread.
CURL OR LOOP YAIlNS coDsist of a fine foundation thread. a soft spuD
thick thread. which forms loops at inte_rvals. and a fine binder thread.
JCNOP OIl Df01' YARNS are composed of ODe or two fouadalion
threads which are twisted with a third thread, but the latter, at inter-
vals, is wrapped round ad round the former to produce Jumps or
bops.
a.oDD. SLOB 0Jt PLAn YARNS are composed of two foundation
thn.da with which pieces of short-fibred twiatJess slivers are twisted
at iDtenaIa.
'IdA", 2'5' " This is a frame consistiq of a number of wires
bon .. ~I. 4.4). hedIlle CODtains an eye throup
whidl ODe or .... warp yamtpus. The harneas is tile important part _
122
if: loom as it controls the IDQYCQ!Gpt 0{ the 'ftJI JIll. upwards,
wnwards, aad thus eDSure& the correct ruooioa oftbo yatII OYer
or below the warp yam to produce the deIired pattem in the doth.
.!W""& 11';. holda the ftDioa or the weft yarn and is puaed 1Mack.
wards aad forwards acroas the loom (Pia. 4.S).

- -------~L
Flo. 4.5 A sbuttJe

UBI) is a frame (Fi,. 4.6) which is located directly iD. front of tile
harness. nus frame pushes forward eadl time the shuttle passes in
bct~~D the ~ yams, and presses back the filling thread in
poRtion.

FlO. 4.6 A reed

The chief operations that are carried out simultaneously in wea'rina

are:
1. One of the harnesses raises a certain number of warp thread.
and forms a shed for the shuttle to pus through (Pig. 4.7).
2. The sliuttJe when passing backward aDd forwards thtouah ~
abed, throws a fiJliq yarn between the warp yams. This is called

123
 Flo. 4.1 'lbrowbaa tile sbuttle darouab the abed
3. Tho filliD& yarn is PusIfd back and pressed against the previous
filliq by meaaf of tbo.agL
4. TJae warp tbreacl ilaeleaaoct from the warp ~ and tho fiDisb.
ed cloth it ~ rouad OIl ~~ ill Croat ra the
'l1teIe o,patiOlU ~ tiD dMInd leD,th 01 doth is DbIaiMd.
"'VBDOIIS. . . most of1ho matetiala, the edpa, which are blown
~ 8e1VC1d1es, are made With heavier ud more cloeely placccl warp
yarns, 80 that tbeIe do aot IIDlBva . , . fie 1Ifkb1i Of thO IOJVedjei
. . . .Uy about gpe-fourth of an tach, except where it is atiIiaed
in. r.ordet', e.g., ill saris. 'l1le wup.J8Dl11lll paraUeI to the ..~

D. I'ADlC CONS'l'JlucnON
Pabrics or
lcltiag.
ptJIIOJJts are IJIIDu&ctured eitb by ..a.m., brittiy or
-- WEAVING
AI woven fabrb are made ,!l:of twO loti of ~ mo_ M 'am'
;: '. uiIiiDY tabiB are woven in lOBI leustba, i.e., 40 to 100
 !E2 threads are broupt :side
side just as they would bOLl thO fabric and theD wound on te a
or toUer. The length of these threads must, of course, be approli-
_miiiiTiiple of the 1eDath of tile pieces. The ftlIiDa thread is wouild
JLU-'__ Imm_!!l!. Since tho 1iIJiug thread has to be moved
tbe warp threads in weaviDa. it is Dot possIble to make these
Jarae. So a large Dumber of these have to be used one after the
.in maldDJ a Jon, length of fabric.
beam of warp threads is placed at the back of loom. aDd the
are drawn from it across the loom from back to front to be
on a roUer. For the weaving of plaiD cloch, the threads are
tbrouah the eyes of two sets or beddles.
The filling threads pass over and under altonate warp threads.
are lifted and lowered by the corresponcIiq heddlel.
weavia&. the of COlltained ia a
o. l ideaf

125
 For tile wee.. of fabrb with compticatccl daips and Iiftia&
order of warp tIanads, mechaiaal .......ta bowa u 'bpbbieI. or
'jacquarda' are UICCI.
a.c..CI__ w...
no _pleat or all weaves is it:M beep M tile ~ 'YtMYJ. The
weave can be '98riecI for the ~ of ftrioua rabrica by tile selec-
tion of the ,.,.. to be usecI as ~ ... ftUiq ad by tM gmber or
thrud,
wldch in
per=::tmetre. TIle simplest plain cloth . .y be Olle
is esaentIally square or balaDced with !Qual
threads ad COUJlts Ot}anu in the ~ad IJIjpr as ip a , . . cloth.
Ii poptiD. on the other Iud. has JIIOte .....~ thaa 'picks- In order to
pnsauce n"bbed eJl'ect. Use of coaner yams in the Mias mab the
riIJs even more proaounced.
A plaia fabric may be -mie4 to live stripes 0( areater density of
warp ends and alternately by the addition of tbicker threads. usually
termed 'corda..
A _weave may also be oven with very ftDo. medium or coarse
yams as required. each fabric beiDa ctisdacdy clUreat,
A '90iJ0 fabric, for aampIe, i, aD opeD puze-lib fabric"'made with
1Iae. spedalJy SpuD and prepared yam. aDd has a hazy appearance aucJ
is aIW a mulin.
There are many weaves of aD elemeatary aatare each haviDa its
own distinctive value. Some of the weaves are used to better adV8ll-
taae fiae fabrics; others on coarse fabrics, each weave heina depen-
deut on the riaft -selectio1l ofl*1icuJars.
It is very difticolt to cIassil'y the vaat number of weaves, with their
maey combiutions which pro4oce the dift'erent woven fabrics of to-
day. Bot a few fODdameatal ...'6 coo1d be duslfted as foDowa:
",'VIIS: 1. 'PJaiD: <a> PlaiD aad tabby; <b) Rib; (0) Baa1aet
2. Floetina: <a> Twill; (b) Satin; (c> HucbblcJc weave;
(d) Honqcomb; (e) Bird', eye; (0 Crepe, (I) Corduroy;
(h) VelveteeQ.
3. Fabrics with woven-in-pi!e: <a> Cut; (b) Uncut; (0) Looped
orterrypile
4. lacquard patterned
5. Leno
1. PWa Wea..
:rho plain weave is sometimes called cottoa, ta&ta or tabby .eave.
1bia is the simpleec weave. The ftllias yam is altemately paued over
aad ODder ODe filIiaa yam. See Fla. 4.8.
PWa "...,. rabrb _ve ao wrOlll aide. They are cheap aad have
. . . utility '98Iue. e.a........... '9DiJe. c:aJico, JDUJJiD, ......
126

,
 x

Flo."" P.........
are ~o other "..,. DUUIe with tIIf warp,.,.. equally
.act are. therefore, rqardecI ......tiODI or tIae plaia weave.
are 'rib' aad ..stet' weayes. 'I1Iese mate pJaiD-wca" fabrics
attractive.
"WBAVB
_y ",oven leqthwise or croIS1f'iaI or tile t'abdc. 1'be
ktII,'Itisa ribs ill the 4itectioD of dto warp are fGrIIIId .. ... IBIinI
pa-I aJtcmateiy over aDd aader IfOUP of warp yaI'D8. is
ftlJiDl rib weave, ..... rep.
eromriae ribs, ia the dilwctioa or the ftIIiDI. aN r~" die
yarJJI passing aJtematcl, over &ad.ader sroap orIDiDa yaras.
is called. warp no weave, eI, PoPfiIa.

~1Wa:rWBAW
_Iket treaYe is made up of two or more SUiDl yams passiDc OWl'
UDder two or more warp yams. The basket weave may be three
or (our by four or many other -~ ~
4.9). Very atttactive fabricl may ~ ~ ill the plain buDt
by the Ute of coloured yam&. B"t this weave prodacos radler
fabrie. which is Rot ctUite suitable for hard...., e.... moak'a
materials suitable for sports coats or . . . . duooti.

Wean
iDclade wide raace of wcavca ad an the aOIt dalaWe of

127
 1'WILL WQ.'VB
n.e Iao1D a wiele r-.. 01 wea'YeS aad are die . . . 4urable 0/
aU ........
la die twill 1JII8Ve, die tJIbtt ,.,.. ... .".. . - -.. ,.."
yuBI ill repJar ~ to fonD diapul JiDeI. VariatiOlll of tile
twII . .ve aN tile ~ twill weaft, the brobtl twill 'ftlne,
.......... twiI . . . . ~ oftwiJl ..... fabricaift Cotton:
....... jeu,driD;1dUi,. . .
I.
M"IDIWMVI
Tho oIJject of .db weaw fa to proa. IOBd lue on ODe side
UJ
 or the cloth
(Me. If
10
IIlO1'8 warp,..
a.topve it SIDOOtIl ad pacnIly lustloaa IGt'
allow ,. . . ..r.. it it called waap
I ............ SIda fa tile
__ rl .....w.wIIt .. or
... fabric ..,.. fa dill _w.
.......
Satia .... .........., of lilt Mdc
witIl the _ , ,..,......... on

SA"" WMW Sa. . weaw is

a ...... 01 Sada weaw. If more
. . . 4.11 TMI ...,. . . . ,.,...,., 0JljIIe IIIJ'face it

Thas satins are warp-f~nd IUeeDJ

....... llIiDa-taced
II caDId ftlliD. face 8IteeD

raIIdcL Both
theee C01IIb'1Idioas produce uaooth. lustlvus. rich-lootiDa fabrics
which stand a 800d deal or barnear.
Satin weaves are ute4 for many fabrb. SUb, rayoIII aDd wools
wovea with the warp satia weave to prod8ce IastroIas faIri:a. Wool
satia-*eave fabric. ..-e often upped. Cotton fabrics are more tie-
queatJy woyen with the .teeD wea'fC.
IDX.UACIt WBAVI
'I1da wene is ehItneted wIba warp yal'lllioatilla 4HI the face of
the fabric. A typic81 hucb1Iack ..w may have in * repeat of the

,
I

t I 3
Plct.4.12 H1ICbback~
130
 tho lilt ad IICOII4
fa thetollowiDl hPcb. tIIe ......
ewer" .....1ILt:a'
waap,.... ....tbda...,,... ....
1I1iaa,.,.. ne .......... at . . tabrit it _ _ ~ ".
weave. TIle ....... ptOCIace IIaort, ............ ...... . . .

.w-DI"!O_ WIAVB
die boaeycoanb weave eeII-lib appealUClil . .d . - bY
:IoatiDayams wJaioh fOOl ridaeL ID dais . . of .... .... ....
aad tile IIIiDa yanII aoat OIl botIa sidee or ............. .....
a atractare aahble COl' towels.
vertical Jiacs are fOl'lDCd by the . .,.. warp ,...... aad JJ~
IiDes are formed by the fIoatiq fiIIins yadII.
___"'1M! WllAVB
weave is constructed with fllliDa ,ana "tina OR tile _ace
a IDIUlDer that they produce amaIl dJuIoDcI..eIaap deti...
1Iect of the fabric &bows the warp yamsowr which dae In....
loat.

v

J)J II

"
.
"


..
!!II

PIG.4.13 ...... .,. .. :oow,., ~w.. DIuIoad-

..,... fiaweIwJda .... ~

wovon-in desip of thia cbaracfer ... oriaIMIly .... only by

---- attachmeIlt. HoDce tho CODstruction of dteee d..". Is itfD

ttt
 CUPJJ WIIA'YB
Crepe if F....dl word . . . . . criDJde. Crepe --",me ..
fabrica a pebbly, creped ~. 'tnt crepe It 'fOvea witIl
twieted }!nil "",.tety "'til yam twill and thell a
yam may be asecl in the tillina only, in the warp only or ill ....
They are made ia ftricty of weipts, but mostly preseat a IOIDewliat
opeD appeaI8Ilq.
1'IIcn are Damt:roas ways in which such yams are "mea. The
priaeipJe iI to Jane tile fJoatiu, yams so placed tMt the fabric .",.
110 twiR, DO Itriped eftect. Of 110 10D1 ftoets. TIle weaw may be
ftriatioD of the plain or satin weave. It is fnquelllly combIDatba
~ tbeae two weaves. Mally ftbres are used in the ~ of crepe
materials. Wool. cotton. silt and aItiftciaI iJaments-cadl play.
valuable part in ita procluc:folL

.6

FlO. 4.14 ~ "OODItIDCtiooot ....... crepe weave

OOllDUltOY WEAve
The Jl'Ound Mini ,.,. ...,. ha a plaia weave with the warp
yaru to form the IlO1JDCI faIidc. ..... pile fiDfIII yams interlace
0_. two. or tine . " , . . &Ilea . ....DYer due 01' JIl(n
yarDI loan interJaee apia . . . . two pr thno warp yams foBo
. by ftoatiq over 'W&I'P ,..ad II) tortIl.
After the fabric is woven the ftoatiDl Uiq yams are cut miclwa
between the iaterlaeiaa. n.e fabrics are tID 8aiaW so that the
forms cords or ridps. Vses: SuIts, sportswear. dIapery, bedlq,readttl
upholstery. -
'll!LV811!IN WlAlJS
Tbit is similar to the corduroy weave. The around _, be
132
 ......,IIUI
a tal. . are a If01JP iD wJIicIao. . . . . . . . .~ railed
UIO of wiIa, e..., turkish towelJiDa. AI the fabricia WOftIl,
UIUIlDIE JUDI are JIekt bact aacl are DOt ..... in ., reed. 'frJth
o! the am pict, all are beatea ilL n. pile warp yams,
over ud UDder the bact fiUiaa JUDI, are al80 beatea iD ad

of,....,._..'. .
Tho pile loops may be OIl the bIct oaIy, OD tJae r....."

fiIUq.,..
tile IicIes. In some . . the taftt
the ....... oftbe warp ad daia_~
tMod

INWovea.

..
 Ta 1IcqaatcIlOODl is atremoly complicated. h is ver, apeDIive
... teIlWirea .. teODl 1ritIa. a(aidy iPah ceiIfaa. Several weeks are
aeecJed to prepare a loom for a .9' complicated pettcm. aacf tile
wemaa opntioo is com~ly slow.
In a Jacq1Iatd .".ve the fabric may be tat ........t . . . or
it _ , 11M a cat pile or au aacat pile. 'l1las variOll8 ...._ ca be
..... iDtO" ftIIItic. E-..... of do*
De.... tapestry, bnJtade aad terry . .
JUde ia lacqaard weave:

Df
 weaft
".~ atada in . . . by
It cr__ .. lacy effect and
tile .ppearanco of. figure
Tbia etrect is aecured by
IIltachmMt bncO it it caW
die'" ,...
weave. Jf
ikIrIL_ oat 01 fabric--
t

'WCtMt tile fipte tipt

_ . . of tho warp,.me call
 In ordinary knitting the thread is presented to the loops of the
knitting needles always on the same side, and the freshly formed
stitches are drawn off the needles always in the same direction, But it
can be arranged that these movements are changed in direction with
every other stitch or with selected groups of stitches, The fabric which
then results has a ribbed appearance; and because of this rib it is very
elastic. The tops of men's socks are almost always ribbed so as to
secure a grip and in many cases the whole sock is ribbed in order that
the fit may be better. Ladies' garments often have ribbed portions so
that these fit the body more simply,
Plaited knitted fabric
It is possible to run two threads at once into the knitting machine and
arrange that one of these predominates in the back of the fabric
whilst the other is mostly seen on the front. Thus if one is cotton and
the other is wool, then the fabric can be made to look like a cotton
fabric lined with wool or vice-versa. This method of knitting is known
as plaiting.

LACE
, .
Quite another method of making fabrics out of yarn is in the lace-
making industry, It is more restricted in volume than weaving and
knitting. The machines used are ing~nious and complicated.
It lace-making the basic principle is that of having a large number
of warp threads, as in weaving; and then running filling threads, not
straight across and over and under these warp threads as in weaving,
but twisted round these threads and moved across the fabric in a
diagonal direction, The same principle is utilised in making lace
curtain fabrics.
Ornamental lace of the best quality is made with real silk threads
as the ground-work and with effect threads of rayon or cotton. This
material may then be dyed with contrasting colours.

FELT

Felt is a type of fabric in which there is no interlacing of yarns to

give strength and character, In fact it is not made with yarns at ail, but
with loose fibres. Its production depends on the fact that when a layer
ofwool or fur is rubbed whilst wet or in the presence of steam then
fibres become entangled and interlock as a result of felti1l8_ This~.
]38 ~
 m. nNISIII'S AND lI'INISHING MATDIAlB

is defined as anythiq that is clone to fibre yam or fabric to

the appearance. The bisb. often determines the care required.
caJef'ul choice or aurface proce&M8 and COIlditioaa an e. ,aW

of fabrics inctude acooriDa and b1eachm& ely...

r 4laICCetISfUi fiDisbia.. The IfOUP of finiahinp that are used tor an,
prbatiDs,
tentering. caleaderilll sanf'oriaiD& IIIeICOI'isiq. schrieneriUa.
weightiag, ombossia& etc. 11aese ftafafaes may IJe applied in
lhulCti<m with, or before or after. lIUUIlIf'acture.
yam and fabric come from the spiDnor, weaver or bitter, they
f01I8h CODditiOD. Frequently the material is harsh to haadlo and
always coMams impurities (either added to fadlitato the pro-
of manufacture or impurities which are Datural to tho fibres).
auea it is lOiled and may have oil stains. Altopdaer freIhly
IfiUt1Ict1lItC1d textiIo material is uaattractiYe. 0WiD8 to its JffJY 01'
broWDisll.colour such materials are oftoD reforrecl to IS beiDa ia
or brown state. It thea becoDlel the task oIdle bisber to 1C08l',
dye, print, and BDish or otherwiIo procell yaru, fabrb aaa
10 that tbey acquire an attraetive appearance. At die I&IDO
it is also pOlli'ble to imprme their aerviceability in may ways.

PRELIMINARY STEPS TO FINlSBlNG

....,e. tf.
p.riDciple underIyina the ICOUriDa aa4 bIeIcbiR8 of all tGtiIe
is simple. MethocIs aDd purifj........... are used which
the coadi1ioII8 employed 18ft a . . . . . . lw.rmful e&ct oa the
material, yet are able, by doatmctioa or solubitiaatioB, to

01.,. _0.1
tho impurities preeeat. Iiace di&nat . .
_Iillilitiel to tIae
"YO . . .
purif)iaa ........ JII1IIt tile 4iI'enat
materials be treated......,.
madUnery ued for amyiaa 011& the purify., procew, .. iIl-
aIIo for aU adler IdDcIa of WIt prOClllin11ll1llt be . . . . to eait
13t
 die ...sariIl ill . , form f1l pna, faIIdc GI' ,.-:s ~ .......
aery .., aI80 be lOCIuincl 8OCGI,~ wbedwr ... fabric it .....
or bitted.
hi'"
Ja tIIItiIo materialI, the imPlltda "... are nDlOWCI dariDa ICOlIriDa
............. comprise . . . . . fatty ad oBy .batucea, aatunl
Dltropoou bocUeI. pm&. and miDeral impurida. In additioa. the
_tuIal coIouriaa matten, prellllt ia . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . .
tile ...... III8tedIl iI to be left a pure wbite or to be coloured in
brJaht dear Ibades.
or the wrlO1IIIbn1. the myoaa aacI qathttic fibRIl ere ...u, tbe
".elt ad IDOIt pare; dIeir ~ is . ...., easy. CoUoa Is
a taidy pare, oIeaD fibre. But wool 'Idle IDOIt impure. It COIdaIDa a
IaJp proportiOll or wool fat (wbea this is nmoved ad puriIed it
IOID die . . . of tIIat lIId'w akiD laIyo: 'IIIIoliDe') ucl plbphatioa
RIIcJuea from the sheep. Flu coataiaa a luae proportioa ~ woody
impariti.. wbilst raw sDk hal 20 to 30" CODteIlt or lilt pm. StaIda
ad oil imparities are iDtroduced into aB testiles to t'adJitate 1DIIl1l-
fldariDa opaatioaa-to It1'eIJ&theIl and 11Ibrk:ate the yams as they pus
throvsh . .viDa and bittina lIIIo1daes.
11ae 1taIdly. ~ aDd . . . procIucta c:aa be Jaqely removed
&y treatiDa t1ae IDIlterill with aJbU. Jiquors or with ~ or baIiaI
water. Pats, . . aud oils nspoDd to _bMDt with hot alhlillc
... IObitioas ... theJ ~ emuJ.... and wuh out. TheDat1lla1
colo1ll'iq matters . . usuaUy resiataat to tIao tnatmeDta aDd JIl1IIt
lie d~ by osidisiql1lbltaacea, espcdaUy QdroaeD peroDIe ud
~orite or other ._DCe8 contaiaiQa dYe cblodinc.
Acid Iiquon usia to IeIDOl'e IDiDetal sub8taaoes . . . as caIchuD
and . . . .mm compouads.
. . . . . . tr... It.
TIle ceIaJoIe .... aN NIiIIaat to aIbUs . . . . tbereforo at.. a
pod ad tborouah boiI1rida solutio.. of sodium ~ or neD
CUIItic 1Oda. OD die other IIaDd, wool Md sit . . Mn . . . to ......
... to It ...... to _ tile,..." aIbIi.me ...
a.l1i1k ia __ naiRa. to aIbliI tIIaa woat. ad 10 it is 0CJ'M"'ft
,...,. to boB raw silt ia ......, a'bli.. ..., ....... to1'e801lll
, . . . . . . (..a.).

. . , ..... be . . . .ihl iD ... aIbIiae ........ OI'.,..,

. . . . . . . . . . oUato be , lined ' - Gil . . . ........
lie
..,...". I.e._ COlI. . . . . . . . _ _ . . . . . . . . . . . . bolla _,. tile

WI
ia...,...........
.., iIIpadt) ........., . . . . oat.
.Mid JIIIIIIeatioa Lwe . . . . . . . if .... at
 ___tIatioa are Mated. Ja ........... _ ......... toWOCll
..... boDed ill low COIIfMitJIItioD.
IaJOU ad .,.... .... are _ . , IIroa ..t ... .....
GOIotIr . . . . . . ......,., ........",.,.". ....... ...
of IIbdc. II dl1II ..,., to . . , . . cIirt, ., va I liD . .
01 . . . . . or tDittIDa. 'I'hey are 8IOIe ........ to . . . . . .
thaa ftl*bIe and animal flbreL
_ _ _. I h
.. _to cIeaIt with 1OOIIIiaa. Ja mOlt . . . . . . dIia'l P 1_
__iaI will be whit tbaa bafore owiq to fir , _ 01 . ,...
But tIIiI it DOt 10 ia III eaI& CoUoa aoodI.., ..... .....
tie imparities, aad the ..taraI
fl'OdacIaaood white coIow.
coa....
~ after 1COUm.,. ........ it . . . . I1".31.t ... . .
1_ lilt .. .

ad ra;,o. caa aIIo be bI.dIed with.,.,...........

aDd wool are bleached wida JardroIa pII'OIWe. AI. . . ._

a aood or wIIite colour caa be produoed . . . cbeIpIJ wida

of actiw cJalorine. 1bis aolatioD is prepared bJ ........
of sodium ~ or by bubbliq cNodM ..., . . .
or lime water.

fa employed to live aoIid ..... all Oftr till . . ,...

Wbm two dift'enDt .... with diaieat c:IJeiaI pmpIItIeI . .
two cIiAleat . . . . may be obtaiDed ill ODe"'''
Dyed abadea are obtaiDld by _ _ 1M tedal witIl a
by CIIOII

of a wbicll baa ... . . . , tor die - t IlL ..... .,.

peDlltnltea tbmi", die b'T~ . . . . 01 ... ,... or fabric.
pNIeBt-day methods or dJeiDJ are buIcl oa a I8PI'I1 of ,...
....lIrdiiled dy. wIaicb are DUe
pIOCIacD.
.,IdIIet'o"" ,,_ .,. far'"
diacoYery ancJ manufacture of 4yII from coal tar 4eatfathreI

. . . ..,., wIIida ... ..., to apply . . . . . . . . . 01_,..

to-day broaabt at the dilpoal oldie . . . . . . . . 01 ...........

1IatJ- ad fastDeas. 'Ibae dy. C8Il be c1uIIled 8CCGl'di1IC to. .

atracture or ac:cordiaa to daeir ...... lor die _'Mi
.... a.emIIy . . ad . . . . . ......,. . . appIIcadaa for
of theM cIimnDt . . . . of dyeI.
.. ot.,..lDtOIw8 ~ ............ .........,
wIaere ..... of"'..",.'" 01 ......... ........
pro'_
all
count macItI<."..,.. ...... ,..fiIIrio
or ...... 0(".,.... .... __ ,. I. .
is of die
for

141
........
Prom plaiD dyebw it .... become ~ DOW to tum to ~
.. a _ _ of produciaa more coloUrful etroc:ta on fUrica and aIIo 011
,.ma, aJthoqh to a Jesser ateJIt.
aocE ftDn'DIO
TIle simplest metbod or priatiaa a pattem on a fabric is by uaina
woodea bIoc:b. mock ;n.tiDa was ImowD to tile adDell aDd fndient
. . . two thoulUld yean aao. It ~ 01 caniDa a tbkt blool: 01
wood JO tIIat a .......... out in reJiet. nu. block is tmeand wJdI
a colour paD ad tIleD pressed upon die tabric 80 that the colonred
..ttera it baDtIenwd to it.
Block printiDa can be made wry tlne . . . . . ad tile ..,.. It
aIICI toda, where aclushe paCtcnII .... teqIIind. Bat it _1IqpeJy
.,_ way to nw:Iriae pliDtiDa. whida is used all cner" workl
for produciDa printed fabrics in quantity collUllOllly 1IIed u roller
priDtIfI.
aor , . PaDn'INO
RoUer primm, waa developed in J785, aboat tho time aU temJe ope-
ratio1I8 ..,ere bocomiDa medumiIed. R.oUer priatiaa tuma out 00lo8I'-
.11..... rabrics h l'8It qu . . , ., tho Jate of ~ of yards
anhour.
ne ....., puts of the roller pdatiaa mechiae - . . _ a .....
caatral cyJiDder ara.ad which p6ea the fabric to be priDtecl. Tbis
cyfbador rotates with the IDOYiDt ~ Apiaa tile faInic . . this
~ cyIiDder, .... a Duaber 01 colour-priDtiDa IOIlen. Each ron.
coatn'b1ltes ODe colour. 'DUll if there are h coIoaa ill tile ......
tbIre are lYe co1oar..printiac IOIIen. BIda of tMIe roUen is made of
copper UlCI enaraved on it is that portion or the paUem. which it
eoatributes.
Wartiq witIa . .ooIour-pdatiaa roIledIa co1our-furaisbiDI roUer
. . . . rotat. ia a ...u troqh contaiaiIaa the prIatiq coIoar
pule. Alto tona IDe 'doctor' or .....bIade . . . . . ._ OBI of
tbe~ roDen.
BIMlIa ron. coatiDaoaaly 1m,.... itt part 0I*' .... _ tile
fUric ., IODI" tile JD'ddne is ia openaIaD. Gnat aaae hu to be
. . . . to . .j1Ist tile roIIen 10 that tHy nPtK the cIeIIp aorrectIy.

paiar'at wIdch It_WI ... --OJ.....

~ tile fully ".... J'Urie Wit' all to.8MM ffll'WUd ,. die
Theace it .. led tbroaa\
. . . . . aad lIP. . . . . . . . . . to Ix ........... coIoIn.
Pt~ 1MCbi_ of dill tiacI cu ~ JIIO'icW with up to to.....
142
ICRJ~OI nJN'I1NO
diachaqe or extract method or priadIra doIIa r tlll ita . -
fact dlat colour is diIdIupd f'toIIl the rude.
of the most attractm printl an daoIe wIIich ..... 1DuJti..
patterDI OD . . , . . . . To pnNIace . . . . . ,..... OD
colour, the fabric is tnt cI1*I 'WIdl . . . . . . . . . ,
Thea it is printed with. pate coataiDial clll.f_ ...... or

..... DiIcharp pda1I are fOUlMl OIl GOUoDt IDd ..,0.

tile broWIl colour to a wIdIe. Iadl a,.. iI CIW die-
uclill

die.
patteraed", with dart '**aroeDdl. ". ..., tIIat . .
teDda to "lItea tile falldo ill tile ana 01 till . . . . It
DOIalllllDer WI1ltI IeI'YioeIYity be IIIoulcl.Ol bu1 fabriat p:Iattd
clidarse ,PIiutiq.
ftIN'I1NG
priDtiaa. the wWte ta1Iric is lilt priato4 with
IIlbl1aace which wiD pteveat IatioD of certaiD dyeI ~
a,..
COIdaIa-

ta the fabric. It is thea c1riecl aDd J*)ded aD OWl' with a

paste COIllaiDilll ODe or more of these dyes. On dryiaa UId
the'__' dJe is fiDeI everywhere acept where the ....
baa beea priated. The IeIUIt, after WIIIIbiq 011 Doa-Iud . . .
paUorD on a coloured JI'OUIld. 11ds Malt fa til.. 1fmIIIr,
~ ia a'" .... from 1M diIc:IIap IIIIChod.

.or................,. ...
PIlIMTDIO

priDdaa:.=.a deft10pmeiIt 01 ............ The ordi-

by d
woodell bale. ICNIII is eoeted willa ....... Clfllanl d
~ wbero they lie left opea ill pam ...... to
A ..,...ae ICreeII iI RIlII8ked for ........... _ _ U'O
PI...... _ . . die ....... aft.llaicwllWa I N " , tid.
fabric is IIld lit fa optII width _ . . fabrb. .......... it
148
IaiII _ tho fUrIo. ad tile _ _ .... II r__ .... I'h 1&
braIIL. This cl--. tile _ _ . . . . . _laid dowa ia tile . . __

. . ..,._................ ... ,....a....

..... tat part 0I ... ,.uera ..... M.I ...1111 .........,aidw
pOJ-~
fGIJDwa tile Ant . . .the. ~~ eM M ..... ofooloun will
....... wiI .. a RCCIIIi_ ., 0jAIIdheI f. . . . . . . . ok
aatiI tJae taItdc iI oomplotef cotmd w.ida the pUtem. TJae fatric is
tJ.- I t l l ' " lor roIIIi fJdDtiIIIo
....... oIJtaiDecI b y ' " prJntiaa are __ , .......... at.
......, o6IIb ill ftIIIet pc..:! Ie U, to ICMlltleea or . . . . . . .
ooloun in ODe pattera CD be ;rodleed. 'I1I1II ICftMIIl Ill"'''
tbeIe days become YerJ 1I8efal PriDtiDa method. ItIlplCid.wIu . .
Ja tile .tlIct tMt it ..... ,.",.".... to . . prodIxed 4IdctJ1 ad
witIIo1at ..... 1Jddat ......
JIIGIIINI' nDITINO
11ait II. RClIDl deftJopmeat. wJdcIa ....... iDtcnIt. If ..'It nhd
Ia A..a ... fa bowa .. the Aridye procelL Tbia ... . - -
...,. ~".,...,. dyet, " ... are . . . JuDI... ad ... .,.,. .
to IiPt . . otMr aclvene iD8ueDceI. 1'hese pIamena are made Jato
ooIaar-pri.... puto, . . . wrioaI .......... eBpOdIIl, . , . . . .
.... to act u biDder at tile " , . _ to die ..Wed fabI'b TIle
..... are ~~faIIric 1w _ oldie 1II1IIl methoctI, ncb u
..... or ICIeeD ,... fabripla ..... to 1iDd" ........ to
tIae fabric. It iI c1aiDled that the coloured . .WiI1t olaIDId ., ...
ArftJe Jncea Aft ~ fa _ _; wuhiDa aDd ICCOldiD8 tD
tile daoice or pipMnt this caa be . . . . . . .ted by exr.1. . f _ _
to IifId: pnasifbafloa aDd od* handallllllaeaces.

FINISBJNG

. . . ,..., IaIII'b ad prIDIID haw . . . JcoUnCI. b....... cJytd

aacl '"..... alley ........, _yeto .. ' iOed 14f*i18 .. _1Gia1
_r,............
iIItD a prlllntable attractive CODCIitioD. It is
oIfadJe fOOds.
" . laW., of ,.... II . . or pal.....
""'.taidlJrhic:h
"'I'IIIt;"lIoIt"
the
,..,or......... ......
, . . . . . . '" ....... ad bitten wIdI61It W .. to be laW

.........................
........Mdo .......101& ......
,.... . . . . . . . . tLdlDto.~or . . .tDbe ... ~ .......

IWIIb . , .. .". Cll d I er_.... II "

..... . .fa diltualld GDJMIItIoa. Oat
.. ..,.....
or tilt 'IIilpoItaat ftIaD1:fGiIl of
M4
 forma put of ................... CU .....'IIfI . .
oat. die __ ........... IabdD ............d ....... ....
II ...dnd ............................ -
eM!
tbID uptIy damped lor tho Iul .." .... UtI.... . . .
.....

. . . . . . . procll.11 are ................... _

a .....-ce.. . ant aU die Jll'Da.............. .n ...
fabrica. lome fabrics __ be put tIIIouIIlmon tMa OM
BacIa fabric is . . . ita owacllanlctlritdc IokIa.

Of die . . i ....... operatic-. ill H*" .. to ..... tile

to the req........IiOlll or widda Md ...... To ...... it to
widdI, the . . . is ..... * - p a ...arIac ...... Tlait
.., be 20 to 90ft. .... aDd is 10 . . . . . . tW 1M . . it
throuP it by two moma eItafa. or cIipI or .... ODe on IIdl
1'IIe eIipI pip .......... 1nIly 10 tJaat it caaot lip _ fI
 fit..., II.' __ .."
..... (1/ JaeniIy wcisJtterd __

=. . . -!!Jiwac
RaJOB fabrica are DOt caleDdencllO.a~IS cottoa or ....
fabrica ofta IIaw fairly Iaawr .....
orca~801M,~'" ...... 10. .

::=
....... additioato die ~ fIA~~ PI.1n bow1I.
~ . . . . eM . . . . . . . _ _ . . to

81.......
::::~:::=' Da IaWl 6:,
.,

h cJdaIy

Ally textile fabric is made ap of danacJs wbicIl are ill a state of defor
-uoa tor die teUOO that they are iDterIicod with each otJaer.1a tile
_ . . or iPittiJII 01 tbit '-brio it iI ilB.pOllibie co aYOid fI!at dae
. . . . are ItnIiaed or IItIeIdIecI.IO dial a CnaIa)J .... rabric is DOt
....... It is Iupr dIM it ~ be if die ltIaios were reUo(ed.
WJaea 1M'" 1M cloth Is ob~to pIA tbm1IP caleaderiaa or
otJacr ....... to bdDa it iato a IIIIOOtb coadition. the fabric is
ftJrdIer 1tIached. Ia __ cues t'IIraiaZMn Jaaadoaally Itretda ~
witIa a . . to prod\1Ciaa10. Of 'Wider ra.brici tbaa it ~ by
their 1tnIctGre.

. . . " . , 110 _w
WltIa die IDOdeni molt apiatt turic:I .... prmtatt. wWell in die
&oenam _ bu& wJdcIl after the first waab are
, . . . ICItady to wlDUClsma!lert _ . . . . it . . . called apoa ..
~ . . . . . fII ..... -aDd ..., ...... widaoat __ 'rill. the
~ III r.ct .. is c:a111c11IpoIl1O CidIIIfbra to a specificatiQa dlat tile
......... wmaet, OD ........ thtiat..,_ certaia ...0....

oI"'~ ~ ......
Iim'ia. 1be result is that today It is poJIIiWe to pardIue a wide vadItJ
tIN;""
tlIIt
,.._ . . nqair_eats . . . ~ die . . of . . ....,..aery
Mriat ........
10
*' tIIe~ f'abric eaa becloaed 1Ipwithoat..,.... tile ......
SaatoriaiDIIa OM of tile procaaes ia wIaida tIae ..... oontnM:tiod is
ibrCJalllt about "" , . . . . ......... doUa botwI_a bJaabt ad
flIe iiJrIac:e of alarp ateamheated metal cy'lllldtr.. AI the fabric "...

.......
aa;;:
.
. . . . tIIiI eyIiader . , . . pnI8IId ...;_ It '" tile bI8aket, it is . .
. . . . . . . . . fD.f.. ~
'

_!Dy . . . ad ci- the ,.r'"

The aedoa of c:austic aoda. &JIPlied ader certain oonditioDa to cotto.
iii..... & MautIIaJ
....._ It aIIo Ii....till CiI6tJt a . . . . ..._,.,~ .......
.............r ..................._ . . . . .. . .
.-a-'"
I.tlma w 01 . . . . . . . . . . . . wltIl18 to 20 per
~ . . . . . ._ GI..aic . .feW tlM'IIaIftotwa . i.... at __
tIDptIIt. . . . . . . . . _ . ...._ . . . . . . . . . . . ._ ...
 added at the same tilDe. The PfOC*I CIIl be lJPIied tD fahricl.,.
of all types of ..... with the ucopdoa of wooL Thia fiDia1a II,.....
neDt when applied to fabrics mad, Of thermoplastic fibres. It ja BOt
permanent wheD applied to UD~ fabrics made o( _taratltns
or maa-made fibres dial are DOt thermoplastic: Jiowever, it these
fabrics are treated with certaia e~l reaiDS the emboaina is con-
sidered to be permanent. To presmIve the embossed finiah of sach
fabrics, they should be washed in lukewarm water with a mild soap,
nom' be bleached, O~Oaed on the wroDI side while damp.
TIle aati-crease pr haa proved exceptionaUy useful for viscose
rayOlL 'Not only are sucla materials made reaisaaat to cmasin& but
they are JiveD fuller haIidIe aDd better appearance.
TIae _-crease process is not suitable for acetate rayon and so far
it does not appear to have any use for wool or silk. 'l\e latter are
a1ft8dy sa1Iiciendy crease-resistant.

w...........
The production of water-proof fabrics is an importaDt SfdIoa of the
textile trade both for prmeat and industrial uses. For thefougher
heavier types of water-ptoof fabrics, such as tarpaulins, .etc, it is
t,
usual empJoy a coatiDa compositioa which compri. . tar products,
since these are cheap and can be thicl1y applied. ApPearance or handle
of such fabrics is not of much importance. But with fabrics to be
used as prments, rain coats, etc., a soft handle is necessary
.Itt maDl _.prQaf........ it is moat satisf~ 10 MIlt.,
side with a Jayer of rubbet...But aow-a-days rubber is hin& replased
. bJl'iiitliCtiC msiaa. A cbaracteristic of such proofed"fabrics is that
1IIhiJst beina resistaDtto,water they _ also impenious to air. They
are also adversely aft'ected by grease or oil.
~or' n.incoata it is DeC*8I11'Y that the fabrics should be permeable
to ala and yet be able to withstand faidy heavy showers of rain. Air
permeability is important since it allows moist air from the body to
pass throuah the fabric.
In the earlier days. water-proof ramcoat..fabrics were made by
treatiDa it with a solution in such a way that JUl insoluble, somewhat
greasy aluminium soap was deposited on the fabric. This made the
fabric readily permeable to aJr, but Dot to water.
Later improvements have led to the production of emulsions of
this.alumioium soap. which caD be more cuiIy applied and dried

=_
iDtoit.
Tho terms water-proof and water,.npellant are often used intot-
~, bat- they have . dUroIebt IDeIUIiap.
A wa_-)Woof fabric it water can peMtrate. A water-
148
cleaning. (For home-methods of moth-prevention see Chapter
'Storage'.)
There is only one certain preventive against moth attack. It is to
have substances present in the wool material, which either render the
wool fibres absolutely uneatable by the grubs or which actually poison
them when eaten. Moth-proofing substances are known and are avail-
able. The most satisfactory solution of the moth damage problem is
to have these applied during the dyeing and finishing of wool materials.

Mildew-proofing
The use of sizing in finishing makes a fabric susceptible to mildew if
ifTslater exposed to moisture and warmth.
To prevent mildew inorganic salts, such as magnesium chloride,
calcium chloride and zinc chloride, are used as warp sizing. In recent
developments, turpentine and formaldehyde are being used as preven-
tives. The following household recipe gives good results:
Mix It ounces of cadmium chloride (poison) and I galion of hot
water. Wash the article in a neutral soap. Do not rinse out the soap.
Apply the solution to the fabric. This finish will withstand several
launderings.
Antiseptics, such as boric acid and carbolic acid, aiso prevent rapid
growth of the mildew fungus.
Flame-proofing,
Fabrics cannot be made absolutely fire-proof, but they can be chemi-
cally treated to retard inflammability. Flame-proofing is a practical
form of fire protection where a ilfe-resistant quality is desirable, as in
fabrics used in awnings, matresses, work clothes or draperies.
Textile fabrics may be given a fire-resistant quality by a simple
home method of immersing them in a solution of 7 oz. of b.orax-.arui _
3 oz. boric acid in 2 quarts ofhot_w'!ter. Wring and dry. Press with
a cool iron. (Heat reduces the effectiveness of the finish). This method
does not alter the appearance of the fabric, but the treatment must
be repeated after each washing.
Durable fire-retardant finishes either react chemically and pre-
cipitate on and in the fibre or react chemically with the fibre to add
fire-retardant properties. Most of them tend to stiffen the fabric.

GUIDELINES FOR JUDGING QUALITY

Material
1. HANDLE-The cloth should be pleasing to the touch.
150
 IlDlllIUI"Y d a fakic . . . . . OR tlleJad aM ....., of the
teaIile streaat' of tIIe,ana. die . . . . . or. . ill ... ,....
of CODItnIcdoa.-'Compu.... fa OM fI...... ......

quantity of,..... thaD a looeelJ WOW8 Gle ad.

"hell CODSideriq darabiJit.r. A . . . " 1POftD . . . " -
tlrlll'ef0N

'ftoats' or iadividual thread.. aomet(mea . . ill faacy

sIIoulcl be avoi4ed. UDI_ they are well eocmd on )xQ sides
to wear out rapidly.
atreD&da of the cloth ID&J be teeted by applyiaa teotion
tile two thumbs.
tillInacu sh01lld Dot slip a_y from eada other if the clodt
constructed.
~DoIIbJe cloU. should be securtIy joiBId"., ~ . . , _
in wet. The attichea should BOt bo ~ 6l('
doth should smen clean &D4~DOt be oily.
shoM8 be IlO marb or ~~ P to aaeYIIi ......
or croppiDa.
Dap or pile in raised tab. ~ .. , . . "'" fIaer.
particularly weftways, should,. "&ave ~

the ead of the Jut ceatury the aaturalfibNl .... CIIIe oaI)' 01IIII
CombJutioD of fikea Ja . . . . had warp , . , . . . . . ,
offtbre and fiIIiag yaraa fJI aaother. Willa the ootaiIl in of
fibres, a Iarp . . .ber ef DOW . . . . . . . boa _ _ TIle
combJDe two or more fibrel ill oaefakic is arowbIa 1BPidIJ.
II .,., done mmeud more ............,. BJcadtADd ___
......aUy 1I8Cd ia all typa of fabrD 10 . . to make tIMID I8itaWe
.. .der-pn_ta, ,. .ten, bulb. ahida. sai1B, drapery fabdce.
wedel..... raiD-wIar. oIIiIcIml'1 wear. . . . welt. . .
lUlOlIJIl tIlo term 'mixtanet ad .,._.. ....... . . , ......
tedmically then it a cIitftInce ia tMir . . . . .
JrADICI_ . . madt up of two or mole . . . . Idoda
each of wIIicIi is C08IJI aga' fit . . tiM of fiba TIle
be CMIpOsC'Jd oflla8"Il"IIII!ilijIiilIladl1"
151
 BLBNDIID PABRJCB ate made up of)'alllS.iII whida two or mo.re .....
ent kinds of filna are spall toaetJIer. In Iddition, varioua typoI or
mOllOfiJameDU OJ' ftJamept yaru may be combinod OJ'twiIted topdaer
to form a combiDatioD filamept yam.
There are a ho.t of raI8Oas.for mDiq aDd bJemtiD,. (1) They obtaiD
a larpr number of desirable cbuacteristics tbau co be achieVed by
uaiDB ODe fibre aloae IUCb as iIIcreum abaorbeDcy, comfort, faatDess
to light, areater rtf8taDce to abruioa., wriDtle reaistaDce. streqth,
elasticity, resilieD<;y..CJimeDaioDal stability, fabric attractiveneas, better
texture. drape and softness, reduced tendency to pil1iog. JDildew,
bacterial JfOWlh ana static electricity accumulation, posaibilities of
creating newer mixtures of colours and desips. permanent pleatiDl,
embollin& priDtiDJ and other special etrects. Thus, in short the fabric
improves in appearance, behaviour and utility; it becomes cheaper and
easier to care for.
CeU1Il08ic fibres are o~luded in the mixtures or blends to pve
increased abaorbency aDd comfort, decreased static electricity accu-
mulation and PilliD&, increased washability and gredIer'86rity for dye
stuffs and chemic:aJs in finishi .... Thermoplastic fibres are used to im
prove crease resistance, abape retention, ablamon ~, strength
elODption, dryina ~ ease in iroDinJ, pleating, etc. Rayon and
cottoa on blends help to keep costa low and to increase absorbency
and washability. Nylon serves to improve touaJmess and abrasion
lCIistaIM:e; tet'lene to im.ove wrinkle resistance; acetate to imprOye
drape texture and also resistaacc to wrinkles.

So.""'_ wiqa _ _ _ .........

Manufacturers have fouad it cIimcult to aet a uniform blend of fibres
iii the yam becaU8e of diI'ereDce in spedfic cJensjty, lensth, diameter,
~ aad llYlfoacopkitJ of fibres. AI Stout riahtly says. 'There will
always be some variation aloas tlle leaath of blended yam from one
spol to another and also in ~ from iDside to outside. It has
been learnt that 101lJCI' fibres tend &0 trav1 towards the centre aad
aborter fibres towards the outside yams. Thia fact may sometimes be
used to ad'V'Utlp in aUaioin. a desired result. but more often it is
DOt desirable. Some fibres ...y cut others. eipedlUy if ODe " tough aDd
one soft OJ' OlIO much heavier than the other'. Bleads and mixtures
preseal problema in dyeiaa and fiaiahiq aad may require apecia1
equiplllOllt and ltaDdliq procedures.
With the bleBda ad miBorea the coasumer is facod with problema,
such as how beat to c:&r9 for that. In the ahaenc:e for informative
labellina 08 rabrb ill ov"ciNatIy tho proWem is areater. TheIe am
be DO paeraI procedure (or a care fA all bleDda or mhtares. Care of
152
 CHAPTS& ,

Colour in Fabrics and

Indigenous Dyes

In every civilisation ftom remoto aaes to the preaeat. *l' the art of
dyUa has played an import8lll part in '"'_ beauty 10 rho world.
IncIia was the coloUr-boll of die ancient world. She was the aomce r:l
tl1e eartiest aat\UaI dye-stdi known to maD. lDdiao. the :tiDa of d,.,'
for Woe; madder, lac, sdlDwer aad sandalwood for redIi cutdl for
browD; ~ and saI'Io1a for yellow, ud . .y otbtr ind;,e.o.
dyea wae her sole monopoly. TheM were not 0D.Iy used itt decoratiDa
dle briahtladiaD tam,.. but were a1Io made afti1ablc to tho Watern
wodd in laqer qUUltities whenasco da GaIDa discovered tile sea-
rpute rouhd the Cape of Oood Hope. For Wltold ase&, our 'ranar
and 'dlipipn' (priBten) have tried to preserve the colourful beauty
'or tho COUDUy's milIioDs in their haacfa; so that eVeD now. to our
Western friends all India with.out the aoracous saris or the women, and
the briPt turbans aDd hmgl8 of the men, lVouJd be uthiDbbJe.
<lour ill aacieat times was ~ a. 'Piritaal necessity of equal
importaace to the physical aeod 0( food. Every colour.bad its . . .
caace. and the ..,., whether mytholQlica.l or ~ baman or
IoraI, bid itt hidcIea ,.nina. To cite a few : Blue.... a symbol of
vitality and COIlVC1ed .. attitude of admiration an4 a __ of lhiDina
apltadGlUf. lled ~ joy. happJneet, iii., truth, \'irtue ad IiDce-
~upidoaa tor tile bride. &080 ... the aDblem of divine wisc1om.
GreeD to aM Mustim cIo1lOted ..,rtaJity. aad 80 OIL
Each aeuoa baa ita own favourite coIour-lime sreen, for imtaace..
is _colour ..-or,
tor early
d,..__
"oa for Basaat. whoa die mustard
it ia full bloom. BvCIl today, every airl1atoa .. pride ill
. . cIupaUa in ,.,now, tor the Buant fCItiyaL Yellow to . , &DCieatl
iD4icatt4 nasbine &Jld aprm,.
 IDIOllJl1l11 RajpldaDa, tile tecbaique 01 daDIIIe
coIoun omcr... oa ..... side. fte . . . . colo.
J:dUliRDt artiJdc IWDeS, lib tIP'" pat_.
. . . . . fa

for tho fIaIDo.coIoured IIId.

. .""", or dart clouds" mayarpuabDa or tile wriepted ooIoar
peacock a&ma1l tara or stan of tile Irma.....
.her traditicaf BliII iD tIJe productioa ofeoIoured tutiJos, Jadfa
to Barope _ colomecl and priate4 faWca up to the . . .
ceDtury uaderthe faacy ...... OCcIaicIaeya. 'cfaiat, 'PIle...,...
.-.KMIlJ, 'CoromaadeI', 'Oujuat', 'GoIcGDda', 'MoIa.1ipItam'_
'I"hw. ~aeIy. were tile COIItreI wheIe tile fabricll ........
lite IIlO8t arts, the caaftalDaDlhip of dy., ...., also 1aerecIi&atJ.
althouah the chipu or priaten in the YiJJape ItiII follow die
;amcess.. the dyes in uae are mostly synthetic. It is bcarteaiD& flow..
to bow that a few of thete aecrets ate still Do.. to the 'bill
who mate woadeduI dyes for their faIlrics fr.,. Ilerbt, MInw
roots of plants.
secrets of eJtractina dya were bowD onJy to a few ad..-cl
IIy word 0( mOd. Aay JacJustry that i. DOt ~ ....
hence our old dyes Iaad to mate way for the daeapa: 00IIJ.tar
of the West.
recent ~ colour penaded every 6eld of life and h1UDaD en-
Arodem psychotherapy attempts to tap it for its ftlJlllOCUIn
Colour is used for ptaCtical utBitariaa PI1fPOH8, ftCh al _
to sipaIiIct cfaDaer. aDd poem ,.,.,. to repIUe roacIlrafIIc or
the air and water..ways. A COIIlbiDation of yellow, peIich aM
adorns die interiora ofnuraery achooll aad .I:iDderprteaa, playia,
die impulaiYe _tare of )'01lIl, chiIcIren. A colour IChemo of
solectecJ hues bas proved adftDtapoUa in factoriesud Jarae
as J')l'OIJlOtiq a feeJial 0{ comfort aDd atimu1atiq more atiJ.
wort perfOl'lDl.l\Ce. Evvy day briDp in its wako, a fnah ce.-
o( new aDd appeaJiaa Ibades or pmeatadoa of daiaa _ _de
combinations which apeak e10qucatly for the qlUty ancl
.ciYOllCiII 0( our <:oJoar experts.
~;COJlOar is one
of the moat importaat cIwacteristics in any clothiq
household tqtiIe. It ;, tile COIISIIIDCI.r's first amaideration wIaea
~LSiDJ a tabric. In tho abeeace or
iDformati'90 JaWiq ia Ia4ia,
interpret tbeae-the home-mabr has to .reIJ on Iaer bowIocIp
aperioDee.
on pp. 1S6-1S7 in tabulat form are a few ofJncBa', Wp-
dyes that can be tried at home
T.dlen,.
...~ for . . . an iDdiapeDaable aricle of bridal...."
J55
,J J
(
-
]1 31 f
Ii f

.1
tIDe1
it f If
i!
I~ i D
~
~J J II
:.
CIS
9

J!I fl
91
s1
JJ JIi19 Ia
~i ~ ~
lit8! DiJi_ tJ
IH~ JJlg a"1
i
ill
l
11 f
dl in
:=
II
i~
oi
;
RI ~I
~
.. J!
J ,!
If ~ ..

'" 10 ... Ii
are ftDdin, other aad less aesthetic.... lDveItiptioos have reveaIiDd

tty.,
that the colouriDJ matter of ,.._' c:an be suitably employed. for
tom
textiles. Colours obtained hem1a are moderately fast and
can stand, to a,..t extent, ~ ch10riDe bleach., aDd fiIht. Its
p-eatelt adVIDtaae is its economy. A povnci of 'henna' leaves, C08tiDa
as little as sh paise can yield a ~Iy substantial quantity of coIolIIiDa
matter. The dyeiag salmon is obtained by soaIcin, crushed 'henna'
leaves ill water, ~t rJuouah a piece of cloth, .mixiDs it with a
sman quantity of dilute-acetic acid and hcatin, the mixture 80 obtained.
A larp variety of colours could be obtaiDed hom tIUs process, l'1UlIinI
from reddish-brown to mildly brownish-yeDow. Some of the cbarac-
teristics of did"erent dyes in voaue today are liven below:--
ArOdaI.,.
Today appr~ coal-tar ctyGI are available for every sort of article.
Dyes may be fast for example to sualiabt, to artitlcaI u,ht, to water,
to perspiration. to friction, to washin, processes. TLe ~ dye,

artie.
which is totany fast, bas yet to be produced. The treatment of coloured

reasons:
in the laundry, therefore, demands 8TC8t care for three maio

1. Colours are not always fast to washing.

2. CoIPurs are affected by chemical action..
3. Different C410urs in any t.rdcle may behave ia diIOrent ways.
It is impossible for the housewife to posteSS ~ bowled. Oil
dyea aDd d,ed fabrics, bot a FDeI81 Idea may help in Jaunder.ia,
clothes.
.
......... oIdtIeIIr
~
.
_ _ an article or fabric is dyed. the cotourina matter is introduced
in one, or possibly more than one, of the followin, ways:
1. Coloured yam may have becm used"in the manutactul'iq process.
2. The fabric may have been clyecla"fter. its manufacture.
3. A coloured pattern may be produced Wprintina process.
4. A coloured pattern may 1 embroidered on it.
A fabric which is woven or bitted with colqured yam pneraIly
does Dot 'run', but one that bas been dyed at)er beiaa manufactured
_Y fUD. Fabrics woven with yarn which is dyed before bein,spua
are the fastest of all.

as-"__ ., AId8daI o,e.

There are six maiD types of dye&:
158
 _ ...__ dJeaortalt4fet 4. . . . . . . . .
5. "",t4yos
6. Vat . .
C01"fON DYBS, ACID Alff) BASIC DYII
I!IIepossea tile COIQJII01l property OfciyliDacoUoa ClOHuioae rayo-.
IIld nylon iii full ahadea widlout the Wp 0( mordaatI. 'J'My
from neutral or stipdy albliae bathl with tbe addition of
salt or ...u.....It. DiIect d,. haw a wide co. . .....,
produce the briDiaat coloUl'l 0( acid dyes. Tho)' are c.Wap,
...dJ bleed or run, l1li41 in paoral are DOt aaitable for . . . .
",eriaI or fabrics exposed to briaht dayJilht. 'I1aey caa be . .
meant for eveniag wear. since tIley give wry bright ad
colo1ll'8.
DYES
dyes are very fast to washiq and perspiration, ht aot
aotCldlyfast toliaht. They are dyed at or near boiliD(poiDt. '1bey
fast to chloriDe bleach. They are uaed on cotton, liMa., JaeICOf-
ROlIIOlland cellulose rayons. The common examples are the
of the Lc.I as Thionol blue, yellow, pan. vioJet. khaki,
marooqpsrey and black.
_n,II.VTDDIS

colours generally are very fast to Ji&Iat, wu1aina and ac(ds.

are excellent for aBfmal :8bres, but oaty in a few euea are they
for vegetable fibres. MordaDt dyes are tteatad with soIntIona
of metals, e.I., iroa. chromium, aIuminkuD, wIafcIa Ix the cIyea
l1li- fro.Mi.... and result in a atisfactory fast c1ye. MOlt ra.t c:olOUl'l
are obtained by 1IlOI'danttIlI. Other mordaata are tamIic acid
........... recl oil.
DYBS
dyes form a very important 'class of colours, poasesai.... as they
4i11:cUClIlt faatneas and are the IIlOIt durUle of dyes. 'I'll. . dyes
soIublo in water, and muat be chenricaIlJ tnate4 befot:e they
aoIutioD. TJaey are applied ill a hot alkaline lOIutioa of a
reduciD8 agent, such as sodium hy4roaalphite. 1'hiI COD'"
into a coIoudeu, bat IOlnbIo, form wJaicJa iI tabla lip by the
Upon espoaiDa the cloth to air 01' tnlatment with a euitable
tM ~ material it ozidiMd to tM coIoared form.
is a well-bon eamplo of tIIiI '"" 01 dye. Vat dyeI are uteeI
which wiJl receive hard wear, sunJiaht exposure and rn.-t
AB .... daey out.raat any ot1ler dye. 11ae coIoIned
oft~ t.bJe.cJot. . . . .......,Idaa, eIO.. are ......., dyed

."
with vat dyea. u . " witlallud bI.,.... (widl 0Jddiziaa b't. . .>.
but fJoiIiaa ia a IOIatioa of' soda may caue tile dye to -m GIl to
white portions. It it DOW poaIJJe to apply 'tat ct,es to all types of'
fibres. (For simple hOmo-dyeiD, . . Chapter 21)-
DIFFBR.BNCBS ~ DYI!B AND PlGMBN'n

I. Small ........ wbicb " lOIuhle. I. o,.cp.. colloidal pMticIeI.

2. Ptaeuate into tbe ftble-combiDe 2. Attached to tho faIIric-do DOt com-
. ........,wfdadae ..... ..........u, wIdt dIe,lIre.
3. DJea ..... haft an ....., tor tbe 3. Pic_DIB ale cmiId ." .... widell
.... JIIbres or nidi c:hMIcIl com- ani . t OIl the fibril by beat.
pGIltioIl wUI take the..... ct,es.
. . . . wIUcIr ant DOt abeorbent aN
tnated 10 nell tbe ftbnl before
dJeIq.
4. Dalw dyeI nett dIIfcnIldy to. 4. DHrerent piamenll react clitreready to
delb'UCCM iIdIaeaoes or u;&. die W ........... or 1fIht
......... fC- pertplradcm. lite.

s.. .........._
BleediD. is a common colonf problem. Dye that bas Dot combiDed
chemically with the tibre will come oft'is water, 'nere salt or viacpr
wW 'set' the colour. blat there is DO information to support this belief.
fa dyeiDJ ~ fabria at ~me, salt is added to tho dye bath to
ahaIut tho coIout-to aet betW dye peaetratioD.
If' colour if. to be permaaeot to waabiaa. it must be 'set' ia tIae
factOry dyeio. process,. Colour ~ DIiaIU DOt bIcecI under ordinary
IIaaderiaa ceaditioas may bIeN WIaea kept wet too 1ODJ. It is Dot a
~ idea to roU wet rabrics ia a tow) aDd leeve diem for Ioaa'
J*iocIs or to wash cotOUl'ed fabrics on a damp clay when they will Dot
dry quietly. Bleedin. OCCUR with rayon and acetate more often than
with cotton.
IC.nit fabrics (jeneys) are usually ICNeD priatecI aad they stretch 10
much Ia rolled printiq that the deaipa are blurred. Screea prints an
not aauIIy fut coloured. aDd jeneya sIIoalcl be dty-cleaaed or tbe
coIo1IIIlD&J bleed and rua.
PIP fibres do not ablorb or hold colour u well as ether celluloee
. . . CoaIeqaeady, tile colour in liaea rabJb 1adeI.
The .."..ace of Iia, etc., applied before d1eiDI or improperJy
.IeI8DWCl Wore dyeiq. may result ia DDeveD wau or .nice fro. a
colour
.....,.
1. fabrioI"~. JII'U -y develop Uaht atnab
__Willa WIiDkl. boc_ tile colour ..... ,~ the JIIIIl
,
SECI'ION B , CONStJMDSt PJlOIILDf8 AND SELBCTION
01' I'ABJUCS

CHAPTBIl ,

Textiles and Clothing

Tho textile industry is the pill., of India's national economy. Today,

more than ever before, textiJes'cootribute to our country's wealth aud
busmess.
Oothiol refers to the various articles of apparel used to cover the
body.
Tatiles refer to the raw as well as the finished materials made
from fabrics. It is said that no other sinale element offers such unlimi-
ted opportunities to mate us bappiet, more efIlcient, and more
pIeasiDa to our ,rlends as the.development of the dress.
JIll) ......ad~ 01.,.,.,
Ou! cJesires,iD. reprd to wearilll apparel may be divided into two
c1aases: primarily, the desire fo.warmth and for protection against
the e1emcatr, secondly, the desiN for satisfaction that we receive from
"'iDg clothing that mdes us appear to adwntage. The former type
fit. _teriaIistic While the latter is meatal or psychological.
There is much to be said for what the poet said, 'Clothes make the
man'. Our sense of appreciation of beautiful things in wearing apparel
and the bowledae of how to use them to the best adftlltage come to
us through inherent qualities, education, training, environment ad a
baciground of habits and emotions. This bacqroond inluences most
of our wants in reprd to cJothln,. SilICe these wants are expft8Bed
through the processes of the mind. it is necessary to kno.1IODlething
of the way the mind worb, and how our emotions will react to
cJothin,. All tbese proceaes are closely related 'to one another.
The mind is the cti.rector of aU otpbic fUllCtioDl. The pteway of
our bowledce for wearinl apparel a6d for developing our experienees
in aeIectina and judainl f.&des is our fi'Ve senses-aisht, smell, hsriag.
taste and touch.
 are,....,. i.o.
ia tile priaciJaI .................. ftICIIhe . , . ., our
_ledIle. By IDIIImI ~ 'after imapa' JIG ill t1ae .,. it II
to create style . . . that opdcII . . . . . By . ,
use ~ Iiaes, form, coloaHWocts, etc.. it is paaibIe to __ a
appear taller or aborter eYeD as . . . as by two iDabn or
IleaYior or liab&er thaD his actual woiaht.
~uu.. is 0110 of tM importllDt factora in ....nna apJ!aIel. AocordiDa
c.V. Ramaa, the cmiDCDt .IadiaD ph,uciIt. dao hlllDlUl flJe CI8
. .pillil some 2SO cWremat shades of coJoar ~D the red ad
eads of the spectrum. Thus a whole coIoar wodcl is opeaed up
... Lib the raps in 1IIUSic, coI01l1'8 in teUileI inIacace oar IDOOdI.
much iduence OIl people. While bri&ht coIoun CIIlCOUIIID a py
soft puteI shades &to sootJUoa. TJaIs is ol'tea appueat oal'oaCiWl
. .oua like the HoIi, Id, Di-ai or CJadatmas. wbeD we doll beauti-
clothes. The lAY coloun seem to add to tJao aladaeu of our heaIts
merriment of the occasion. Colour pves _Ut)' to a new
mat. a fabric sing with lite and Cretlm. .
only the psyche but also the body reac:U to eoIour. ~ of
tPerimeillts have shown dial the phyaical equftibria. . tile jUe rate,
beat. respiration and even dipltion to be eII'ected by colour. It
been IouDd that certain coloun caa be ...... traaquilizon while
wort as stimulants. Colour bas mack use on modem ..,cho-

Evidence tends to show that women use their DOICII . . well

eyes when they SO shoppina. A prment no _lter .... III
aeaerany will sell better if there is somethiD. about It to
the purchaser witbollt his toowina it. UIICOIIICiously that
or sub-conscious impression inftueac:es Wm to buy more.
psychological factor is beiDa uaed more a1lCl more to adftIdap
~'U:lI,UIC -basineaamea today. They 1J8e faint seeata OIl their BeWer
and fabrics in order to attraet the CODIIUmer. Recent develop-
show hosiery heiDI scented by chemicals that win repellllOtba

While taste and hcarilla influence OUt choice of clothina

touch contn"butel most to our emotiODl and tnowledae cODcem-
n
dOltbiD2. is through the aenae ortouch that we aperience the
of "Benares or ConjeevaJalll lilt .ti, the (eel of volYCt. the
of wool or the coolneu of linen or sheer eouoa.
of our education is obtaiaed by the earciIe of our Ave 8eIIICS
eeparately or in co-ordiaation, so to jud&iag the quality or
or to dNssiq oUl'llelves.
consiats of both tM physical and social CODtacts or
..,ldtniP and pmctk:ea of the indmclua1.
163
 Down the ages-fundamentally we have placed an emphasis on the
destiny of the human soul, and paid little heed to the gross physical
body or its dress. Beautiful fabrics of the highest order were wrought
no doubt in India, but little stress was placed in the sewing of a
garment or its structural outline. This was partly due to the climate.
The heat of the country demanded flowing costumes and loose clothes
to let in air and lend coolness. Yet none can deny that some of the
saris have been very cleverly draped to show the beautiful contours
of the body-as in the wearing of a nine-yard sari in the 'Deccani
way'. Local interests have brought about individual styles in the
draping of thasari. Our environment has also modified our feelings
and tastes in the matter of decoration. For instance we know that the
brilliant rays of the sun have induced the Rajasthani to wear vivid
coloured garments-hence Rajasthan is popularly known as the 'colour
belt' of India. As we approach further north of India we see more
subdued colours on garments.
Today, studies in child development indicate that children are often
vitally influenced by the clothing they are forced to wear. Behaviour
problems are sometimes caused by ill fitting or poorly constructed or
torn garments. This may even cause a feeling of shame and inferiority
in children. In India, there is a great disparity of wealth, and the
purchasing p~wer of the jOonsumer is very low. Hence the system of
having uniforms in schools has greatly helped to avoid certain
behaviour problems.
, Research findings in the U.S". show that to the youth 'the appro-
priateness. of a costume, the becomingness of colour, quality, style,
neatness, and cleanliness in clothing help to build self-confidence and
, even a sense of security. To them clothes were im!'ortant for the
impression made on others, for getting a job more easily or for wbat
they termed as 'social achievement' or 'social contribution'. In short,
tbe youth relt being well dressed was important because they could
forget themselves and think of others more-because they are thus
more pleasing to others'. This survey serves to throw much light on
the attitudes of the youth to clothing.
These are factors for thought and consideration. We are aware that
the West has a realistic approach to life and a more practical way of
living than we have much to learn from them.
Yet dress has its own place in the development of personality. One'
should not make a fetish of it, for beauty is not a thing of mere senses.
Together with the patterns of external behaviour, which are of the
surface mind, we have also to work out an integration of the physical
self with the higher Inner Self. These alone can bring about a fuller
development of our personality. The living soul is progressing in the
164
 otevoludoJl..... rn.. tow. _ _ _It . . . . .
...... at tIffII.1 . , of ...,..... 11ae ..., ., . .
IOUlII dItcrmiaod bJ oar .................. " .....
deatll is a CI08da. . . . of . . .,.mat Jile, u4 . . ..to
accordiaJ to o. thowa)ts aacI . . . ottbo sn-t ...

SUMMARY

ifOpIate doth_help to aab 0JIIlJ tappy. aothes dIoald be suit

tile occama.lf dDdaa aft ill pedltJle, ......., ~ d8e
. .i01IIlIy ..... feeUaa of weIl-.,.,
wIIich eoatJibaeea to tile
~ _ ia4i'fidaal to a eertaia dopa. It c:aIlOt lie . . . .

m_ true...,....-uan
JI"OO"'inIIaeIpI to Jive ....... iatpIwioa ad IIaiI4
toIIdkletlCO. Bat OM DOt forpt ...
real; aot a mere physical tact. but aD expre.Joa fII
.. __
beiaa 10, beauty call lad its way iIl_ ... cbuDbon of _
throaaIa dift'creDt ways.

ROBLEMS OF THB CONSUMBll

iI aa eta of ICieac aacI precisioa. India fa 011 it. marcia to

_riaIiIl&ticm and ecoDomic .,.."""oe.
fa ...... widllallliat
to step up proareII, it it ~ tJaat lea .,... aad
be done on aD iacreuiaaIJ scIedc basi.. TJIis .... DO--IX.
10.. aa4 arduous OM, . , . tile l'II8lt1 dacNP slow will be

r.
IWIrJOIIlIt of 111 is eoasamer w..... we an produclert or hayert.
worda of eo.. 'A. 0CIIIIIIIDeD we )!Ia.,e . . iDtenat - ' Jllal
ia our economic OIJIUIisatioD aot 0IIly because we Aft Go uId-
. . . of its pIOdaetI bat becnIe we aJIo play . . . . .

pn&eIlt the c:oaauaen rfaIlCB ill IacBa are tar ftoIIl ~

IlOaiIh lie is YirtuaIIy IIIpposed to be tho ,not of ecoaomio acti-
ia pactice he ... nociwd little or DO ~ so tar.
00JDID0Il_ IacII it dimcd to atret4 . . rapee .... to . . .
daily aeeda. a..1a1n Md ......... have bela lit up fCIII'diaI
IJut -doI:WDI ad _ _old . . . . . . . . . " . . . ,
_IN .... .-
....... to IIealtb dllllleodI, the latter line ......... top
to . . . . . life. A lew miD _ _ . . . . . .
., tile . . . . . . . .N'd 1Md..... for tatilII, ad tWr impIe-
_ ... _ . . . stutecL no __ ..... ooae.....
 .....h ., ......... C' E

ODe of the maiD problema tkt faces the Iudiaa. consumer in the &Jtd
of textiles is that he has to faD bact on a mass of locally IDIDIIf'actIInId
IGOds some of which are or d4NWaI qaaHty. Each day brio.. in its
wake newer fabrics with ne,rer blenda. Even the most thoughtfol
consumer cannot keep himIeIt fuDy-iDf'ormed, because the variety is
too Jarae and too rapid, the composition and construction of loods
too complex.
A Jaqe bulk 01 people Jive in dire poverty, finding it difticult to
keep body and soq1 topther. Many are uninterested iD their problema
as buyers. 0nIt a h have so_ tnowledp of teDiIes or oCher COB-
1lllDel"8 pds to be able to Jet their money's worth of looda. There
is much ia wbat Coles states: 'TI:te COD8Umer"s lack fIl skill in buyiDa
is .ometimea COJIfDled witJl .Iadr of inteJlip.noe. But it stemI from a
lack of ObaeItatiOD and fr~ tho fact that most of them have had no
formal tniniDa as buyers'.4
At pnaeot because of a lack of critical. comJ18nble consumer
information, the cdnsumer has to waste much time waDderiDl from
shop to shop or chabsina from one brand to another when doiDJ hi.
tqtile buyinl. Sometimes he bas to depend an what an 'uninformed'
seller c.hooses to teD him. The COIISUDIeI' C8DIlOt teat goods for him-
self or aft'ord to have them done. His situation is quite diJf'erent from
laqe c:ollUllel'dal firms which have their teatiDa laboratories to lad
out blfonnati,... about the soocIs they buy.
Modem life is becomiDa full of stress and strain. T_ is an impor-
tant r.ct~ which every indi'Vid1l81 must use wisely. The consumer
. . be helped to mate q~leaa-cut buyiDJ deci.... _viq his
energy for-better and more enjoyable purposes. 'Performance in ute,
.. in other CODS1IIDCl' 8QOds, is very important in textiles and clothing.
~tiel tII.eir composition and COIl8tructioD to performauce preJeDts
dilleuJt problema which must be solved before we haw- wides~
uae of ttaDdards and labels for clothin. sad Ilousehold tutib'.
Very often the consumer's choice is iduenced by misleading an4
fraacfuJent advatisements, by temptatiOJll such. as bonuses or lift

lriP'iPted. Low..,..
.,..... Half truths and unimportant cIIaracteriItie are sometimes
goods .may be pac:bd in attnIaiwe OI.'IDbIi....
911_ _ UIO all dle tricb of the trade, temptiq the buyer ill .",.,
pOlli1lle way. Much 0( advertiainJ today is ~.
AaotMr problem of the Indian coasalDer ariIeI from Iaia cIioainI
to ... ap-old, baDeful ad aImoat ruiaous custom of preaeDtIq tile
bride I8Cl the 8lOIIlbeD of ~ famifJ 01 the briclearoca with ......
... of c:IodIiDJ. TJds , . . , . ..., have 0I'iai.-0cI with the ida.
gMag the YOUDI Jaome..mabr a feeJia. of aecurltr and .........

""
 ................
QIIIoa
,_it.., .... it a
iseme . . . . .
of ,.ctlli.,.., ... fIl .... . , . , . . . ...
JAoaaoIc( utidee witt _ _ ,.... to a tGt&I ~ pia.
ofteD "ve we aot __ IIefOIS _ 'poor ..,.' or 10111""'.
IIIacbd away ill tho dotlliDa . . widloat , . . .... UIId
cmce?
India', fut -DIinI paUma of life aad . . . . tread towarda
family uaita. it it IlOCU.ry tbat overy ~ .... her
well aDd bayt iatelliaeDtly.
tD 101ft . . . "..IIZI
said above, tile CODIUmer 8nda his "Iindbuyina' iaeIlc:ieat ....
It sometimes leads to frictioa betweea the buyer aad tile
How c:an these problems be remediec1'1
of the way. of improvilla the situation are by

eoa.,.. from the...

educating tile CODSumeI'; (2) hoaeIt advertiaiq; (l) pmtect~
of fraadulcllt and IUbItaadaId JOOCII.
up dcfiaite staDdarda aDd certdk:atioa marta; (4) iaf'orJDaItfe
(5) fOl'DliDa CODlumet8' aaociatioaa.
III look at each of the8e _,. Ja detaD.
lIDVc::AmifO 1111 OONSUIII!R Coamar ec1ucatioa C8Il be IiWR in a
publici.,. aue.iD&
of ways'_ as a delDOllltrltioa or ....
IUpUior pIIlits of a stacIarcUsed product, by lIootIeti ""m,
. . . .t points or by factory . . . . .atadYe .PJaiaiDa tIae pafor.
or iDtriDaic merits of the ,ooU ~.
_ _lIlT ADVaTJSlNO Truchful and infOl'lll8tive advertitiDa .. tile
_lH.trt1I obliptioa to the COIIIUIDeI'. AdvertisiD& is partfcalarf;
ill the clothina iDduatry ___ of tile ftriety of .......,
and kiDds otwearina apparel that ClIIl be pnseated. Moat peope
naIiIe the need of. fabric 1IIlti1 ita achantIpa are pnHDted
tbem. Good, wisely pIaaId advortiaiDa &erge8 the doable purpc.1ID
.apalliD& Illes markctiq and attractiq DeW trade.
:Rcputalllle merchants have Joaa ..u.ecJ the ft1ae &ad imponaa.;.
dealiDp with their customers. They bow that without die
!llDd41DCe of the public tJleir adYOl1iaiDa wiD not be . . . . . 01'
. . . . .Ie. They have set up for thelllaelvea pI8CtieaI _ _ _ to
crron Dl .......... 'I1Iey aYe dmIlopecI 'ataduda of
te tell tho tn6 about the 8QOda, _" furDitu.m 01' the C0Il-
e( fabrica, etc. ~ of advertiliDa that is hoaeIt, ICCUIUe
r_ ... tho codcIeDce aad loochriII of tile ceaa.... HD.It
fair play is . . . DOCenl" DOW tha eftl'. Jy Dooley saya: 'The
lIPiI~ prGIpedt, and ~ of .Y OO"'MDiIy,Itate

.....~,
depend .,.. die cIIu"IIctIr ............rd of ...... ,_ ita

lCJ
 ~~~ . ~~.M;l""~.~"".~~"~

of.
......llOeI ...... IaeIp .................;IJI_ .....',.,t.
. .lIfaiIibIe ..... today wIaea . . ,. . . . -i__. . . . . . .
1iIb1ll are"'" of. It it tie ftllClMIbiIl&)t OHIO_

IaWIiDg. CanfaI . .miMtioa beI_,..... ..., ....

tile ....atiR ~ that ....... 001II_ _ . . . . . .

coastractloo. poor.....,..ateIia1I or wrt. .waJrip. ;0.

Ina

~1"a8II1teI8, UDeftIl coIoar . . . . . . GIber ~ It die

wishes to 'buy wisely, lie aeecIs to Jaw"'lpIOiIo .....
t'Uria in miacL It may be u importaDt 110 . . . . . to ....
aad wbat DOt to . ,.
ciYioominllecl ~ ia westerA CIOU.DUIet . . . . it a dIpCI_
to report OIl the speciIe_ .... or ......... of die . . .
he lias bowaJat. He follows cuetany the 'care ~ ....
the Informative tal. If die t'abrlc or pnaeat doea DOt p8aIfbil
.lactorDy it il mumed to the retailer with all bOIMIIIt ..,......_
the failure has occurred. The retailer iDf'0I'IIII the maaataaarer
Ia WfODlt aDd steps are tabla to remedy dao __.... Co-
.."on alDODJ all parties coaceraed . . leads to better IatisractJoa
ever)'o~ wiJI fJe worth oat .1aB to 840pt sucIl measure. for
'Welfaro'both mamtlacturen aad COIII1UDerI.

GUIDELINES FOR. SUllABLB SELBCTION OF FABRICS

cout for most of us. .Ria1at clothes are aeceasary for -1tIt,
aDd self-respect. An iDdmdui who Uves witIdD a p1aaaed
is uaually happier. more coateDted, thaa one who apeada his
u he eama it. It is tnJe. our . . . or wata are IUIUmited.
aeods are COIDpU'Il1hdy few. While adjutmeat for . . . are
..,.Itial ...,...t
_d impottant m family life, caterJDa to mere ...." laa-
lIirlabie fot of penoaality. There is. dift'emlce betw. .
we"" ..... _ Deed. A aood clotbio, pia _y iDeIa4e

. . . of tlwtolowia, paetic:al tips may prQft 1IICIal Ia dlocMiDa

~-
0BNIaAL
.... .1 ....
(1) ODe of tile tint thiqa is to &ad out wIlat yoar . . .
to..to &pla for ...... os d ..... LIt dUa be
to your family budget. Study each members's list of clothing needs,
and decide how to spread purchases through the year. Give 'essentials'
a priority. The less necessary items may be bought later.
(2) The next step is to put your plan into action. Consider the
purpose for which the fabric is to be used-for instance whether for
'work-a-day' wear or for a special occasion. Buy only the item you set
out to buy. Do not be lured by a pretty pair of chappals when you
have to buy a sari. Avoid buying on impulse. Choose the right quality
for your purpose. Compare prices and values at different stores.
(3) As far as possible buy good quality; cheap things are rarely an
economy. Consider the merits of the fabric and what care it will require.
(4) Try to keep up to date on trends.
(5) Discover ways and means of renovating old garments and deve-
lop skills in stitching simple streamlined qamizes, cholis, dresses and
other garments at home. Remember taste is the ability to discern or
appreciate what is beautiful or appropriate.
Women~s attire
(I) SUlTABrUTY
In buying saris or dress materials bear in mind the suitability of the
fabric to the occasion, the age of the person, the personality and
season. Both qualitY-and attracti1eness are essential features.
FOR EVERYDAY WEAR If the fabric is to be subjected to hard Wear-
choose.sturdy material with a firm weave where the yarns are packed
tightly together. This i9 some meas~e of insurance against holes
duc to friction, pulling and fraying at the seams, sagging at the elbows
and knees. Handloom cottons are practical for use during the entire
year. They arc durable, easily laundered, and permit circulation of air
and are suitable for the Indian climate.
If you are choosing a garment to wear frequently over a long
period of time, it may be wiser (0 select quality fabrics with a plain
colour or an inconspicuolls-patterned material.
FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS A more delicate fabric may be selected for
its effect, such as a Chanderi sari. Consider the upkeep. Sheer
Chanderis or Jamdanis may need frequent dry cleaning, which is
expensive. It may also withdraw your sari from wear for a long period.
Handloom silk saris (such as Shahpuri, Cdnjeevaram or Kollegal hand-
loom variety) speak quality. They arc practical and elegant. They can
be washed at home, arc durable and do not lose their freshness. Most
silks catch the fabulous in fabrics.
(2) CHOICE OF COLOUR
(a) Ensure that the colour becomes you and the design is effective
170
 . . . . .' 00J0na. . " .....w p.fMIitiet. . . III .....
aiIIIoaette iDto .... ..,..
Aba,. . . _ . . ..... colo1aa . . ., toaetJ-. ".., ...
.lIarllDOlioas aacI bo ............ _,. Nature ill . . eM,.,
r.dto_
ia . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Remember coIoan . . . . rapidly &om ..... ad oftta 1ritIdII

_ . AI a hIle ceol liP' coloma. ... as wlIite, . . . . . .
blue, are paeraUy ia sayle for . . . . wear. DuteI' ~
III*I1lfS, lUCIa u browD, are plea. . for wiater weer. Rod ..,
aDd is auaoatiYo of wiater.
(d) Most womea ia Jadia . . . black hair &ad dIenfore are"'"
iD beiDa able to ..... fairly mid co1oan. The 6IIIt IIair _ _
.eriltiDa cootrut to the iateaee coloun.
<c) Ja cboosiq colOlll1 )'OU maat not forpt thtit . . OD alia.
is wise plan to tl')' coloun apiaat a dear stia aad cIItemaiIIe w'"
bec;o_ )'011 most. It. wen to 1N8I' oreua-wtaia . . tile . .
relieve a dart colour. Value coatrutB are ....a.d .,.,any .., tie

(f) It 11 helpful to remember dlat tarJabt coloun . . . you . . .

,._-- dull coloM make OM loot ........ Try to maiataia Wance
colours.
W Older womea shoIIld avoicl sadl hanIl bri&bt GOIours .. ...."
parpIe. SiacI tile briaht coJoan ..., a ~
OraD" or vivid
harden an older WOIIIU'S faco, small amounts or dIeIe tOlowtI
~~R~~ .

If are stout and wish to appear to the beat adya-ao, IIIect a

)'OU
alkvet' priat the desip of which does not ataad out ~
from the beckpouDd. Avoid laIp-fiaured deaips, wide borden
broad stripes. It you are aIaon it is bett to choote ada . .
...rrnw borden. Broad-bordered saria mate ODe look 1IIorter. Saris
the chou of the same fabric would help a short porsoo appcu to

(4) 'lDi'VU 0JI11II1IA'I'DIAL

TbD teaturo of a fabric may mab a colour eitJIer beoO.... or
~!rwII...pqa- eumple. a lustcred crepe lilt or wool ....' be 8atta:iIII
~_. . . 01 thO . . . . . of tile faIuic, but thD __ blue..., ... banIa
...n.... ill a luItrou .tiD. TIaero .. also cUIireace in , .
. . or ................ atcial or dt.e .... - .
1..1&. . . . .., be.....",.,., ia 1iDeD. bat ia . . . fabdD . .
111
voile or ddI'oa it..., be IDOl'e . . . . . . _ _ _ oldie ....
atIa aDd 1UIdenreat wJdch show ...._ it.
Of"
(5) Try to DIp WI' to date oa wIiat .... YOIW. . . .Yaid atremeI
faaWon, . . . . , an uttLd '-1' aad _ _ 1Ml6 68,....
wan., ... dnu aad dloIe IootiDa .. it to tb oIlt cpdctIy.
(6) You may ... your own ...... or p_ tIlaa to taDor.
o.a-au, you are aM ...... A .,llIIfaldtd..., ... die aImoIt
~iw abilitJ to recoa ...", ftlatinl"ip beta_ fabric,
tty" aDd tile peJIOIdIy
ror
. . . . '"aJat die taW tho pnnent It iswbe to pUlCllue tbe
odIIr _u tiel. . . ttare.d, battou. ......... 0lIl ti-. Tbis way you
will BOt IUD iato delays whell startiaa to leW or be at the.!D=1 ~
die tdor'I Cl'1Ide taItea.
8-..,
..., fabric las daractet of its'~ Just u you loot for atrtam
. .Iitia fa people JGU IhoaJd try to ~.. the .iaJJenat . . , 01
,..... 'WIlla ,_ ..to )'OUI' Oft daoli or .... ft)r J08I' 1IIwar.
__ tM ~ qualities oCtile fabric are.......
, . will 800D diIcowr the euieat aad IDOIt IUeC HI"" . . . . . Oocan
.....ber dIat
. . . . . .il eye of. diIcdmiDatiaI ..... recopiIea beauCy Ia
her aIotIlea 1114 adds to the rashioD treDdI by ItUdyiac lIeneIf ....
. . 8Dda die coIota. liIIII,.ad fa1lrb. (I) ..lith. . . 1UlC adeI to
at ce .... tom! CMIIItJt('tf) . . . . ._ correct It tor ... claoU or
....... or odI&v ~ bel. . thtt--lalysdtetaecl OI'QompIeted.
rr. wJriaa lAD ~ . . fouadatioB prlDl.taw carrect Ie aucI
are oomf'*lable; di.y Ihould be able MIorb pc:apia&t.ioII, ....
~ tho1Il4 be . . .blo anel euy to 'Iaac1er.
arz~ .... ...
adIcIMa~ ucJ outwear their clotbea ~
The JIIatWiaI dloIeD ror school wear would ~ 011 where one
~ act the I08IOJl of the year. CaUelreli'. ~~ aIIaalcI W:
(J) ...--s for powtb, . . ad f'reecIom. yet k IiOui -_ be 100
Jiqe; (I) well . . .adec1 to ataDd liard wear ad be ooaar......
..... .t __
(iii) Jimple. ~ by ...,...,..._ 01 ... ucl 0MnIr;
0.) oIoseIy woveD :raaterial wJaida wDl rtmaia fRIIa . . . . . . .....

WMe ............... to be taIIanct, .... oa: OJ .,. WOIt-

ors*" dtnIaIe 00 rumen ... ..., to ~....
...., . . pdIaIJ; (III) bIIttoa - - dOl4Y 1rOIbcri (Jv) roo.y
. . . GJla..; (J) ..... ..,.~. at'aI", or.rrara Iadl
............
........ EJ ' pooIDet coaen. bieeI, . . . . ita Wee ad

1&
 c..., ....
aea. ... ~ ... lddto~ .............. cue eI
. . ..-tbemJut . . . . . . . . . . to. . . . 'I.......
Allow" to tat . . dry - . . . . . . . . . . . . . AUelMlto ......
prompdJ. Watch eM .......... 01,., . . . . . . . " . . .
,.bb
It wile to Jet;}"-";
lost dIeir sbapea.PoIWlu4 ..... to ............ ad

tWr c:lotbea. DJIeuII

a__ ... ..ntiHt.y in .......
~ MIdI widl . . ad .. . . .
l

. . . , aWIity ia Ifdi. , . ad .. ~ or . . . . . . . .
wWcIa ace ...... attntctive aad ltMIDliMcl. W ......_ ill . . .

..... ...., , .....

lib other uta . . . be ealtivated

Dnpite the wriou. new synthetic IhirtiDa fa1mca tUt haft been
iDtroduced in receat yean. white-cottoa broad dotIa coadnaa to be
die moat popular fot leaeral 0101 WJu1e none of tile new maceriala

".I.I.Wad IasdnB ,oud .,.,......,. of

_ _,.,...t ........ -'t wIdch
---t
.... yet beea developed to the poiIIt where tbey . . ~ tile
they '"10 !lave
in lpedal dreaMS"", oat-
'tNiP ... fa. . UDfib COItODt IOIIIe of the deW III8feriaIs eaa be
......\8 a . . . ia tile ............ vpto .,.ud be wen widIoet
..... tile foilowiDs mornina (tboqll iroam, improyea their appear-
aace). TIle ........ tor tile _ wIao tmeIa .... obrioar. . .
......, .. waItIaarIor poIIibIy ......... ........, aenIde. ad .....
....... . . . OR ladry COllI. Dlcma or TeryIeae thirta!lave IODIe

... . . .
wIdtet,'.
. . . . . . . . . Oftl'~ shirts. TIley are stU(' aact caa be
. . wuIaocWJy llaDCI ad Jauaa Up to dry
. . tIIIrtI . . allo aftflable fa , tDrfo WOl'eD of bJeaded ~
IJIIIQII ..... ad '5% cottoa: hie __ to haw: IOIDe of the
~ of cotton and lie not nported eclammy' in 0001
Wildlet or ....rona.,., ............
('IOMIDUC'IWlM JlMl1JUS
u..tIj. . . . eouat is ___ted with ~-Iootiaa ad
. . . elpIIlSive ai" but 00UD.t illlOt by beJf .. __ or _1JiIity.
Yana twkt, the number or straadt ia tile ,........ . , ROdriq
..., bave an importut e&ct. AItkogp modaer-of-peul . . . . . are
. . ._ _ .....tto iadicatc laI&Il1aa1ity _ _ a.oockudlJ .....
battoIu. however. have oftoll proved to be superior to pearl.
oRea dIip or yellow durina IaIIDcIerina-
"Id.
0.........
CDII_
wep'SGa4 . .'dIy1llplliet . . .1Oft
_ _ 01 sWrta of die .... IDCMW. bat . . . . . . . CCIOua-...s
poCII' NIIiItaace to . . . ..
1'M
 .II......,
e~ .-t lao _40 It!...,. .. "'..,." .....' ............
tho NdcSea ....... ~ MOCI_ ~ tile ......_
price di6reaceI . . . . di6roat ... ottlw ...... __ ~ . . .
are a lew poiDta oIaoocl iIUIodaa~ wortapmilaip.. ~.....
any C08JWDeI' CIa cIaedt tor NmeeIA
Fabric a1aoaId be amGOth, . . . 1*. . . . a10Da JIIe ..... or
rippJlaa at tile ...... or ellewilen.
If the Iabric II pa. . . . it ~ be IIIIIItdICd at the ..-a,
...... collar, Itc.

~ IhoaId 4tJe ..... OD

'I'Mu.ma
botIl..,
...... .,.. abo1IIcl be .,."., Jip& ud ~
of 1M cloth.
ia ~ coat aad aJeevea IIlO1IIcI ... an.. ~ cWOI'CIII
rayon twID, IIIlOOtbJy ICted.
..,.orced
AD poehU Iboakl be IiDecI with a .... . , . , wow. oo&tdIL
comen __ ~ ..._ .
ahouJd be III lwId..felliDa or __ ......
ne ...... of _ _

. . . . - . 0 UADY-1lADl!1UI1I Adjuldq the Jeaatba c(thfI--

ucJ 1rOaIIn, IttiDa the waiIJIband or crotch. or raiIIaa a iaqglar are
~..blealteratioat, bat lithe IUit ch. . Deeds . . . . . . . . .
dds, tl'JFotIlw style of tie IllUDe mab or aaodler", wIdda rata
hiP ill qilality. Sizes ancJ models c1ift'er aomewllat f'rom ODe . . . . . .
tuna'to another, aad from ODe .tyle to aaother.

~: .
Try botll jacket and trousers, aod check tile CoDowiq poiaU GIl

I. TIle ooaa aIMRIId .... atraia from die ...... to the lower
........... troat. with 80 wriUIII or.,.....
....... oon. ahuId ftt-lDqly at tWlJIct ad .... fIl tbe Met.
""m
5........ ...., lie CIbraI)'''' ....rI&lr. ." " . c:6e&
coat . . . be .......... __ tilt . . ottheCroalen,

I.,... ...........
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . to .... bodyatfllDllt ... ....
pra8t a ........... JiBe, . . . no
"''''''' _ _ the ..... If OM oltlp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . the
..... tIao.... _, be . .cd net ..........,. bJ ned .... tile
.....r ef tile - t , . .t.aotpnlll.., ... ll . . . . . . . . . . . the
0IMia& fJltM oatIicJe _10 ........ GI' . . . . . cdIIra
. ......, ... ,. rai.ya...... , '...."1IIId
. .- ..
" ....... 1IIlouJd be oomf'GrtabIJ ~ . . . . . . . .
1II. . . . lIloaIdnot ........... " . .. . . . . . . . , fJI
ii,

die f'aWc ~ tile a.t r......... It Is buttoBId.

. . . . ,.. ..... datn.. tile,.. ........
'.1'Nall. . . . . . . . . lttM .......... o 2 . ,. . . . . . . . . . , .

10. . . ..., _ _
AIel tip.t willa 108 .... bead-o{ilt. ..,., . . . . . . . . "'Ita e! '
. .iBl._W ....II...... . . . . .
191
 11'1 . . 8,
'.DcrdC'. . . O" ....... I.. ID _ft ......
T....... .e_
1. u..: C-) 1'aItiIIl ~ (I) ............ _ to.':
(c) lM ....... .-...; (4) ....... dotIII ....,._
2. Domeeab: ( . r ) " aDd",,, (&)
(Dosati).
'IVKBI'lOWJU " . . . an ~ ." looped pile ......
1'IIia pile COIIItIuctica IacteueI tM .~. n. __ ~ fila
are. tile 1DOJ'O absOtboaC die &oweL
.. it IJeIt to ct.ooee towels iD ...... die foopa lie , . _ _ . . , c1GM
___, 10ft ad not too tIabdJ twisted. Ia Itdped or ~ toweIi
"aida tile sCripe ot cheet ill pJaia -Ws .bIorMacJ II . . . . .
ro"t~
To eu__ 1M 1I1ldenNa.... hold tJao towel to the upt. If' widI
tpaces or liaht come tbrou.ah the ........ or poRI . . . _
"Yet, the towel is poem, lUde. 0aIy pJapo.iatI or 1i&bt will . . .
thro1IIh a weD-made toweL
TIae . . . . . Uotdd be Irm u4 .....
a.xz...-MCS TOWILl Bact........ towIII ..........., . . . .,..,
of oottoa. 'DIe 1ad..bIct -1IoaeJOOmb ".18 II lOIII: " . . . . .
the dia. . . . wea. If the towel .. to be ....... tile ..... _ I.e
dose ad ... CCJIPlIDUIt be balanced. tIaat it, 6o,.. IIl8IIt . . 01.
bulk 01 tJae """-diImetet i. warp .... ....
Appearaace: The attrac:tiwoea of ........ tile waaw ... die

importIat ill bact..... tower.,

the face.
u"
bolder it aD importut couIderadoa. ~ fa ......, . . .,
towek aN .... ~ for
a"
DISH 'IOWILI The IDCCeII or

lI.bIoJW ad drII tabrJc NIIIIiIII .. JIatJeIa II....tIIe,.,_

towel . . . . . . . . . _
twist to . . ,ana ad the flnDaeeI ~tJae wca........ die . . . .
DiIIa ....
made from tile had100m Ire WIr1 aood--dlartla .... .: . . .
wlJida .... OOlIDODIy awlJable In KeraJa-ud .... well.
They abIorft water and are durable aDd caD be 8IId , .........
Jiqaicla
. . . . . CI.OIIIhMDN.AHl'NI Q odldordiDiDa table iIIdade . . ,
..... aIodIa _ . . . cIofJaa wIcIl _ptiDa or . . . . . . . . . ,...

....."'-=
.............. today ill beIIIdftd _doom .IQMIdal both wIaIte
. . cdaaIed. ne ....,. _,. jlcqllUd 1atIa, . . ., twiJI or otJaer

table clodll are IIItIIIIy .... of pare . . . . pare _ _ or

. . . . . eI daCJIe .... Scald rII . " . . II . . . . . to __ tile
... ".,.Ineat ........... Dam_ . . . . . III .,...,.
. . . certaiD . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .'1 .. . .
m
 MaaAc-..,..,
Wbatever method of maautacOue is .aployed, t1Iere are two basic
p.bases iD soap-matina. Fau, the ~ or IOap in molten Conn
and lCCOIldly CIte _pilla of ~ ~ _ , . . , diI'eralt sorts or
fiaished producta-Jpl soaps. toilet 1OIlp&, powden, 8abs etc.
I'ULL BOILBD p..bcM IN UAItING SOAP

Most of the soap marketed today is made by this process. This

method requires close attentio. and coatrol. Tho fatty stoct, conceD-
tratioD of alkali solution. temperature, amount of salt and tilDO of
aettiaJare all inlu_" facton.
BrWI, it coosiat8 of the followina steps: (i) emulsifi.cation of the
oil . . . .re with the ca... soda solution of suitable stnaath; (ii)
actual apoaification, a process which tabs place when a fa' is acted
upon by caustic albli. The Cat is split up iato fatty acid _d a1ycerine,
ad the Catt, acid combines with the alkali to form aoap; (iii) paiDiDg
0\ tJte separation of the soap from unused aIbIi and al1COriDe formed
ia tile .-ctioD; (iy) clO1iq or ittiDJ, where the level of salt is ftaished
soap is brouaht down,
S'1'IIr ONB The natural fats are melted, the impurities anowed to
..... uad tIJc clear fats rqp or are pumped with the soap iDto bttl_es
.. _ted wIIi an open . . coil. A 10 to I' per cent toIutioD of
. . . . . fa added. Tbo Difxture is furtJaer _ . . by steam fmtil the
~On is about 90-95 ~ cent complete. BoiIiD, may be
COJldaaed.Cor two 'ot three .,..
nw ftIO The fe8dion mass in the soap paa DOW coataiDs IOap,
~ aceq albU, _ter an. orpaic impurities. Salt is &OW added
t. tJae ..... This makes the thicJc liquid toep rise to the top. TJae
JJqUI UJademeath is a miDure of salt, JlycetiDe ad unsed alkali.
didI II boWD 88 'spent lye'. The am is DOW turDecl ott The soap
~ wbich riles to the surface is a1JOtJIId to co1Ioct Cor wIli1e ad

....
tIaeD the 'spellt lye' below is draft oft', 'lad ",,*iDe nccmrcd from
it. TIle soap is then boiled with water or ataDi to 1Mb it into a puto

mIP 11IU8 The soapy layer will COIItUa a certaiIl aDlO1IDt of 1IJl-
.poaiW fat, 10 it is boiled apia with more sOda to .u certain of
complete sapoGificatioo. The mixture is allowed to aetde ad the half
'apeat .,e' aiDb to the bottom. ~ ClOIltaias excesa aUld 1ridl a IIII8Il
amout of aJycerioe aodJll1t1eft ftoal tile Jut pr-. 1'hi8 is uted
widl freth aIbIi ill the am aoap-......
. . I00I. Soap is apia boiled _1Il0l'8 __ Ud ItAIII, ad,

.. atWn.wd oft'aad tile aeat soap

l~
W_.
after ........ 4 layers will aepuate out-dietopllayerwlliclaisroarth
~ out ortJall bttJe by
PIG. Ll VI'. "alII. er.., (ftdllJollecl .....)
 meus 01 a swiaa. P!pe on to a cnada wJaidl ..... illlOddDa bat a
mechaoical mixer......... _~ . . . . . . ...... 00BIiIIr ofimpare
dart-coJoared soap ~dat~ bouoaail . . . .fino Iiqaid.
S1'IP l'lVB The neathot
sDicate aoJutioa or lOCH... i"""'"
is . . po is . . . . wid! either aodiam
wbida .., DOt Gceed about
4-5% expressed u . . . . ~ or siJirate. A&ltioas such as
colourina matteP."t, may also be added whea the liquid soap it ill
the pan. After ~~, the IOap is lUll iDto oooliDs frames
or ODe form or otIaor ~iDs on whether slow or qtIict oooJial is
deairecl. CooIina IDa)' rap from a few houR to 4 to 5 days depeadiDa
on tile lJPO of coolina flames uted.
ITIIP m TJae cooled soap which will be in the form or blocb is
then cut by IBCI8DS of maaIlipe iBto alabs aDd tMn into II1II_ tableb
by use of madtines and . . , stamped.
S'IW IBVBN Genuine soap contain about
oombiaed fats.
30" ._. ad 60-64%

" \11' .......

bps arc the aodiam salts of fatty acida.
1. Soap is made from a combiDatioD of fat or oil with an aIbti. Both
aiIBal and VCfIC(a~ fats are used ia tho mannfactore of soap. 1\e
toraer iIacl14 ..."" are*. ad o1eia; and the latter, coconut. ~n
.... castor t Mrs... olive, loJa..... palm and oils.
2. ~ aphtha and a little mineral oil, I1icIa .. parafb oil,
. . , be acIdecI'to help in its clr.Oiu, properties aad ia the removal of

~...and _pldheDic acids(obtained from petroJegm,) _ , &lao

..". act4ed to imprOft the dfectivena 0( toap. 11aeir preICIICO . . . . .
tile soap yellow aad truslucent. These prod'" beiq . .per thaD

leu del'"
lOaf tJae cost is reduced. The chW.~ of . . _ ... it lias
power thaD soap aad IS to . . . ~
ia wJtJte atdcles, eapeclaUy wbeD comlIIMd with taJdDJD from .bud
water
... Tho cbici alkalies uaOcI in soap -wt'aeturo are QIIItio IocIa aDd
caustic potash.
5. Water is pIIslllt in all soaps-the porceataae miea . . . dIkeal
aoapa.
'" Other IUhetaDcca iDckJde disinfcctatl, I1ICh as carboIIQ, 1IDl....
.. .... 10&,..
sm.w_ aad ~.- for . . . . lUCh .. aodiam

. . . . . pO. . . . areaddiil-w ..... ~_N &otII ..

Illata_
IOdiaiA Carboai(Ii (wuIUq soda) aacI pIaaephate. Some-
timiDI . . . coIlocfial ejaya ... ooJbIal . . . .
'.WpaD and

. . . . JIlICIwUciaI afIs is cleaniaa ............. toptber wJtIa

188
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .'9. . . . . . . .. . . . .
or ....... .." ..................
~
isa qaIct IDIthod of aoapomakiq. COcqimt or pal. keraIl oil
upon by mUltic soda. The well JH'OPf,)I'tioDe....., is
for fOlIO 14 ,._., ~"... --. - - . _ ., dae
action. p.meata it from anted", Co14 procea.
for small iDftiaI outlay requirecl tor the pia.", ~ ~
esll~

of tho eDtire process. The aoapa prodBced ate ....&ad

01aly are cheap to lDab_aIIo

Jlycerino. They abo COIdain free c:aastic dI. . . . ot'ttda
haetllead...... of.. . . . .
~ fa bach aokIwateruct ill hot water. Cecont at P.aJII
are lOluble ia salt water allO. Hence their special . . . . .
loapt.
dt_1rJ s..,
how ....,. kiada or.,., . .y be p6titmly ~
l_l'Il'Wiai!lI.
".Wi.f oil oftea faced witJa IOaPI of .. abowa __ ~
~C"saap
a t*ce wort.in.....,.
~II' ..... for ....... _ _,_IJIIIIIP'l
for ca.... Tho _ , pardaaIecl'OI' noI . . ~
a1bli. Bven one per ceat a1bIi II enouP to be ~
Mloured sUb tor faltaDce. 11ae quality of a toap cd bo~ III
"I'OII~owilli. way:
The soap should be or a cJoar plate colour. Dart cot01lnMf . . ,

feel_
contaia impuritieI.
1be soap _wei when pressed with ~ 1Dpr. U . .
or.
II soRer thaD it aJaould be.. it may CODt8iD an Ucelf "*'-..
c:uo it wiD be a wute ill UIO.
Mtay hat4 soaps, ~1 e!leap _ _ owe daefr ~
"'90 ....
aDlltaDc.. nd1 u sodi1llll sDfca~ witJl wJaicla ttae:r
fIIRI... dIe tow perceDtaJe of soap, which othenrile "paW
10ft.
OIl stoaae, ,oocl 1aadry IO&p drieI with a ftrm UIPIIctfD1
_ .., dneIo,. wJaiW CQltaIa oa tke aurfaoo. ~1tOt
or ___
..... aIrqwI tba pl'OIeDCO ve aUtaU. wWr6 .., 'be
to"'~
lO1IM 1Jut", illcIcUiYo .... 9f &ood ojJ ..., is . . ~
bat ~~ ~ ...... tire f'ractuA" ~,...It.
..... aJa0aJ4."..r. _ . . . . aa4 it~ . . . .
................... .ud.

~1iIU . . . . . . . . . _I. . .
iAIII...dI . . . . . . . . ttl .... are ......... .., . . ~D."

1M
 1.104..,. ............................. .....
ba.lace I1Ida .. La IIbt.
2. fAUpalpoWlO8pI .... a~T~ot . . . or free
aJb)i, lOCh U Rlaso by HindUltlil Lewr ad Deep '" OocIrej.

AVA. ABLBPOR LAUNDRY WOU:

""n
nu.ow
"' ....
aut SOAPS
Yellow bar IOapI coataiw. a mini. . . . of Sly' lelia. muimum of
" " ....... a SIIIIlJ UIOUDt or he aIbli (IS, ......rcr specift__
doaI).
IWlIOd'l

TIda is paeraDy UJed for I'UbIIiDa OD labricl . . . . 1IaQl ..., is

,.Ised. It .. Il1o uaect (or - l i q 101, aohttiODI for ...... pur-
.... 1'Iain tJpe 01..., II CIeOIIOIIIIcIi It is .,. to buy it Ie ,..,
.... 4aaatitieI and after cattiD8 It Iato tqUII'II, ItoN it ia a 0001 . ,
..... _ _ tIUa 114ODe, the soap ...... with tbe reI01t tJIat then
... Jeallbllteod oIwute . . . it It . . . tor ru.... 011 fabrics.
MIUTUL lOP ,_ .
,..... it. fairly biP-pdced wItItie toep of pod quality, c:otdahUa
_ftel~
toi.. IOUJ'l1ON ~
~ . . -Jbe .... &0 ate a . . . . . . . . . . . oa wuIUna
~tor all types or ..... other .... ......
. . . . , . . , AND aanmo v. .. oc. 01 IOIP to J piat of water.
Otia die ..,." . . it )II tile __ lor a'" __
til _til a....
UqaId II 0btaiDed. AyofcI ita over bOiJIII.~" ... be - - ....
UJllNil1Icl fIIto jelly.
1CMt . . . . .
. . . . . . , II ..... iD the form ofa fllm OWl' tile ..... of a
ldW' II ---c:ooWw .... dram. It COIDeI offae . . . . . a HIII1Jer
0( ~ TJaae ribbou are thea 1DO'nCl ........ - ,. . . . .
.. __,_ fuMe a . , . . ........ throuaJa wIIIch hot air fa
..e..... To ....... , . , . . .................. ..,
.... I.,.... _.
Ita. . . . dried. ...... peJft:lIIICI~ Of.., - tIaea ,.... ow
_I"'.
lOlls COII;:iJIdiIq die ....... mIJI uadI 'die IaaJ . .
. . . a ................... ,.... ". .......,
at 4IamoD4 _ped lakes by ...., . . . . a.n.. ' ......
HI
 ..... _ 1 hi... _ ... ~ . . . . . .1 II
uelllhl1Jle r. .. 'hi OGIoaNIIMIIlr ..... 1IIak...
7.
.....01... .....
_ _ Today IOIP lit. CIII be , _........... ........

COl'fOCt UI01IIlt 0I . . . ....ad . . . .1INd

4IIIoIve4 Ia JIItID boII-. ...........al:adoa II ...... .
. . . . of .... Ia .................... ,....
lather. It . . . be remembend tIIIt If.., . . . II " . . .
.... ....... - -.... (JIIrIIIMdJ" .....4111NIO
puticJeI of _ , . . , lad . . WIJ iato 6e f'aIW, ftr.......
appearaaoe 01...., marb on the .........
1OWIa.,/
powder il made of pa'" __ ","10'" . . . . . .
-u.. . . as ........ pIaoIpba_ to die . . Of. tow.
.... 1Iot_ cold . . II .................. II
. . . . hiP,..... .... lido.".' ._,lItfllir.
. . falla . . . . . . OR
is eatnIcted ., ...... .., ...... 01.., ............
. . . . .. . , . . . . . til " ....

ia. chat C4IIIctioa .,.. ..........., rw.....

-..riety J 110&, powcIen life .ftIIab.. Ioda,. ,...,
_ _Ill toap""
!Up from , to 30 pet ccat. Ja . . . ..,.1UtrIlU .....
.tlil.
10 11_ carba'II~ ...... __ . . at .... &ill t
!

"'Nde.1Odiam IiUcate aad ~ oIIaIt ...,. be ....... 'I'IIIIJ

I'~" ...... wIaicIlad.l..,.,... die ....... 01 . . . .
DCnI_1DUIt be aaecl c:anIaIl,.OOCOII' I to 1M dItecCIea _
,...,Ao AItJIoasIa DO ."...... ..... _ , be 40118 ia .....
tile oondaned _ of .. Werior ...... powder . . , .... . . ,
tile Ufe or .. article, ....... die powder CClatb ....

liIDe aad IroII ..... - , be ~ OIl tile IIbdc.

OR IIIBrAMDT IOU11'ION/ "
powa or a 011. reetaDut
piats of ~ water
city fnIt is stored. It it aaeIJeDt tow ....... coIoond lib
LCIOt1.... bat is BOt aood for ....... wIIite~ or white ....

U-_--, ...... u.. ...

~ . . . .JII.II'
ooId, ...... 01.,., .....
Qact . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . hnU up ... ......

. . . ._ . . till . . , berdet froaa . . .

.........'1., .................. ...,.. .......

-
die ............ 4* A. In ~ ........ ..
............. _, c.,- Tbefndtlol.... tnII ......
 IRIKAUI
Another of Nature's aift for cleansing fabrics is ahibbi. It is a
soap pod from Aeacltl COIfillll, a prickly bush fouad I1lIOdlIadia.
........... 18Ia.e ~ to reef&. It is aceIIeDt (or
lOIIlO'\'iq . . . . aad waahbIa eoI0uM cottoDa a 1Iilta. TIle lustre
oId1bJlIDMiaed aDd die fAric . . back their . . . " " ' _
A I8iDare or powdered reeta_ ad ahibbi. ...,. ill WIIl'IIl
..... makelu ___ Iaair-ahalllpoo.
TIle pod (dart chocolate brOWDla colour) is dried is the aaa, ud
powdered fipe. A tablespooa of powder is added to a piat of water,
.atlloiled to. ~ ....
Dfbtai is ftea combiaIcl widl reeIaat powder to wasil oae-S
. . . u4 also to cIeaa ailvelwre ad aoJd. ,
~ DBTDGBNT Pa.ODUCJI (NSD)
'l'beee DOIHOap ~ PJoa1ldl are bccomiq popoSar today &fld
... u814 .. soap .au"_'tutes. Bump1es of NIDI &to aodium salta Of
\pIphoatod ratty alcohol

112
 ,
,.
TAU
R
"_d~
eooMa
0....,..t
Wet.,

PIG. '.1 .e...... 01 .........01""'""

It is boIioYed that the free 'tails' are capable of ...... on to dirt

IIM"_
diet whea we riaae away the soap we carry ctiR ._, wIda It.
8lON . .aIctJIy, ...., fila. tile .... of . . . . .
caIe II 'Iayclropbo1aic' (wbidl JIle&1I1 . . . .lepEr .... ad _ ......
tha..., aaoIIcG1e is "',*opIdlic' .............. ttI. . ..

........ ol.................... ....

Bat what . . . . 60 aoapJeu ......... TIlle too . . . . . . .
pWIIcWaDcIa ~"".dIe-"
'.d.la ..
.... . . . ~ prodaCts-60 tIIItIl . . . . . . . . . . del .fd

*'

 4. Sodium silicate is used to protect aluminium pots and pans
(when used for dish-wa;hing by hand) and aluminium washer parts
such as agitators, fans, tubs, etc. from pitting or attack by inorganic
builders.
5. Brightener or optical bleach for white effect.
6. Corrosion inhibitor to prevent silverware from becoming stained
in use for dish-washing by hand.
There is a greater and wider horizon for detergents. It is generally
felt that detergents are better than soaps because they:
1. can be used in hard or soft water. _j
2. le.ave no soap scum .or sud on tub or clothes.. ..
3. dIssolve freely even rn cool water, nnse freely even 10 hard water.
4. greatly increase soil removal. (In hard water, this is especially
true where only 1/4 to 1/2 the amount of detergent is required as
compared with soap).
5. contain superior built-in optical bleach or brightner which elimi-
nates the need for excessive use of chlorine bleach or for blueing.
6. are active emulsifiers of motor grease.
7. do an effective and safe job keeping even synthetic fabrics
brighter and whiter.
8. are 'one-package' products containing not only detergent but
also builders, optical bleach and water-softener all 'built-in' to do a
superior soil-remo"1"al job.

t
SUMMARY Fats, such as cocount oil or fatty acids are treated with
hydrogen in the presen~e of a eataWst to form alcohols which on
treMment with sulphuric acid form sulphonated fatty alcohOls. The I
acid group then reacts with alkali to form the soapless detergent.
How to get the most out of your soapless detergents
DO'S: I. Follow the instructions on the detergent pack.
2. Use hot water for white cottons.
3. Soak clothes in the detergent liquid for half an hour and
longer if possible
4. Knead the fabric inside the soapless detergent
5. Rinse well
5. Check colour for fastness before washing
DON'TS I. Don't pack in too many clothes. They should be able to
move freely in the water.
2. Don't beat the clothes.
3. Don't use soap together with soapless detergents.

200 /
I .,
1

..... . . . . . . ._fI t E!! ..

3. To r-.cne . . . . . . . of' WriIIu bat. ..... witk .,..,. .

=
peroDde. I -

To ,.....60 ....
.taot ....., I
die.... ...
4.1d . . . . . . tor wIdte ...,
r~ abcne till ...... is
II t i l Pat of. . . _

.iIf--........
...
~~..,..,. AcId .'.iIOiIII to ..a:ra1Ia
~~__ ildl6ODld . . . . . . . . bY the
10 . . . . . .- . to fallrics.
.... :~. . . . . . . _ . . . . . . WOOJot . . . '* _.. blown
_ _ at too......
........ _,. ... _,... a.._ ................... .
,. . . . . . . . . . IWI') ...... rid .. _ . -
. . . tn. PI . . . . . . . . . _
..... ,,1 ... "oodIa..,.._ .............
. . . . .1 . . . . . . . . . . , _ 1 1 _ .... -.,
.,~Z2'I ....
. . . . . . . . COOII COOK
A ccapoaiI of' poa.... oalate ud oaJD add. ca8ecI
..... of'SomL
Ita . . ia . . . . to dIIt oi ouJic Iid ... 11 spIoJed .. dIi ....
. . _ . . . . 111M prOpodIoa ...... poieIlt llaoaJcftre taIe1Ied
.. " 'W...,
...... m.coos
WIJr. wob4ea. . . .

Medc ..., .....~tbe molt . . . . . . . . . . . . fa _ ID tile lI.dry

..,.. ....II.oId t&ria ofuetic. . . . . . . . . ~ 6X .... .w
II,. III ........ Aa:tic . . . 11-....... ia ...... ~

..
~ ....;Wei is t ........ p1II'IIt. '1'IIe aeIcI thoaW . . be
u.t ia . . . , _ . . 011), in ...... _mel or eardleawue .....

~ ..... lOIIItioaot...., (abRt 1 1e ... DbIIftd " lJ1I111l-

_,." It ....... tteepiaa bath to J:eIIlCM a

2. Tna:_.( wed: acetic add ................. ,} . ..

. . aatOllly CIIIIe Ipticw of eoIoun. .......... . . , .... ....
- aa ackIed klahtDIII to the oo1oan.
3. DariIta -..tactare. apeeW In"""
procca. . . . . . .iecI ..
db udl'&JOD. widell .... them the lICIOOpor _ell' tI cali... .....
.......... oraoap. ~ ..... ~ ... it . , be
reetored bJ .... die ........
4. To 60 ........ . , . who fa
iat;5W11t
'II ... ....
..... &ado aeicl i. wry
impotlUl" a ....... , . 1k
tit"
....... ....

-
So ..... add . . . . . _ cenecII. GINs'" fa... OIl
ceIItaIeH acetIde. It c:ea.to. acetate II .....ed at tao .... .
 BOL'YBNTI
1JGIJ'-lOIveat1 eaa" applied to the __ 4elieMe .........
'dry deu'. ..,., do DDt ..... die . . .
01' to
Iabrict.
_'iQIe for 11M ill tM home. are compandheIJ . . .
. . veey ccoDOlDical. The folio... toIventa sbouhl ....
~. . . . dIe.alaod of .... die.. as .,.tiaa
25 "Dty-Cleani......
,1
f .....

I_e. . . ....
OIaiDecl f'tom dittil..... of ..... oil or petroleum. It it ....,
................. III . . or .... i8doon is., ....
ad _ _ be - . _ i n - 0 _1iIioo. .... ,

.,. . . __ let...."._ ..... 00D1ainiaI ........

tal
a..1WIIMII..... ca.
B" more expeaaife" cIaD1iIa ..... bat IiIdIt Ja . . ._
ad Ills areat ...... or*._~ It'llas poWed1t1
""" todo ~ 0IIII ~"" _ .............. or IB
weI1....tilated rooD. It ia - . . ... ewpo.... quic;tJJ.
U4tdcl waaJaiq ckterpIIts atd II ..... dUI'ereat traBe __ IS
TeeJMtI .... 0eII.... 1bae '.rP dec\ivo eft8 ia salt water ~ lor

-
.,. ddc:ate clotheI attome u WooIIeat, aUb, po)JeIter ad ,Jlous.

I t II a IOIftnt for paint, aad caD be 1IIed on aU fabrb.

Atll. r
It ia a usel'ul solveDt for may stains. It 0UA0t be a. . 1Io.,ver .GIl
GOIIulOIO acetate IS it iastaDtly destroys the ibre ad rapidly dissolves
it. It is hfAly inflammable.
_.
A . . . . . . . . _............. ..,_, . . . . aa
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . tor ltaias ca1IICId ., eoametice,JD8iI'p&tIiIIa and
...... JIIiat ....... and . , . poIidL

0.-
Il ca. be ased lor removiq aeaJi1Ia wp, silver nitrate _ other
ail... stain< bat it is DOt a very tfective solveDt.lt caD be "mPIOJeCl
-.r.hrica.
...,., with.lOap. A1cohol 4. . . . .-atebut it CD be a _ _ aU.

_ _ QB. TO C.,RN

..
IWIt 01 die supply
petroItDatD
or ..dD now comes from the rehfaa of
Pu is ...,to)edfor reIDO\'iDl ......... peIiIt ttaias OIIftiMJer
. . . . Ia Jaudry apJIIiaea. For Fa. . . Weth _ ~
~ of Cotton and Linea Pabrics"

.... c..a.
pt,.. ia __ .,..sM thIIl ~....... disti. . . . . . .

...
illlrmm,bIo'" 'fOIIIIe.

It . . . . . . . , . ..... ~ J*Iat ... p ........

211
 CHAPTBIl 14

Bleaches and Their Use

'f!!cI!' is the process by means of which c:oIoqred or SIiico_jgpred

maao wiii In laanderinc, the only object in ~
. . . . are
bIiiiiIi .. to ~.;n., whidi ao DOC R8__PO~ to aonaal
pIOC1I1I1I1I LObh" should be camea
._in,
out auefaUyon all fabrics. Tho
comw:t rate &ad iateDsity of bleacbia, is eseeatial 10 88 to avoid
. . . to the fabric. It W'DOt pGIIibte to 'bleach.' dirt from work.
aU . . . . . can be eli. . iato two classes:
I. ~ WSWPI' pro'Y1de OXypll, which combines with the
-tIIaip to ana a colo\ldeaa c:ompo1IIId. All ibres an . . . , atrectcd by
cmktiation; 80 aD O&idiziol bleIIIIIa must be ill coatMt with fabric
oaI~ aatil tile stain is nmoved. Loapr contact will wea.kea tho fabric.
l: ~. ,Aa. lie dlose wbich. are capable of temGWta
. . . from the co1oariaa matter ia the ataia.

OXIDIZING BLBAOIES
 ,. ..
Do . . _ OD silk or . . . ~ theM ~ . .

De DOt . . od ~ . . . . as IIIMV'" ..
di8iiOI";
DOt f'a8t to
W.cIlea.
J)o DOt boil IabriQI ia" ......_
Ii _, ~ u.~.
\
...
\1'
-- ... "

.. - - ... ..
 Laundry Equipment/

..
 4 . . . . . ..
oI . . ~ . . . . .e. . .
............ ... . . .
FIlL J!.JJ(IJ)
Tbe ........... . . . . . . . .....

...... ....... 11IiI II ...... at

. . . . . 01 . . . . . . ...
 should be encased in a thick, flexible rubber tnbing to keep water
from making the electrical connection between the two wires and
causing short circuits.
The switch for controlling the motor and the levers for operating
the working mechanism of the tub and drying device should be at a
convenient working height and should operate easily.
The convenient height of a washing machine is about three feet
from the ground. This means that the worker wii! have no unnecessary
bending in filling and emptying the machine with clothes.
The washing efficiency of a washing machine depends on various
factors besides the design, such as the quality and amount of soap Or
powder used, the temperature of the water, the types of clothing and
soil, the care observed in loading the machine correctly and the time
the machine is operated for the given load. For maximum cleansing
each machine has a maximum time which should not be exceeded.
For most machines, this time is between five and ten minutes.

Drying equipment
OUTDOOR DRYING: Clothes cord.
Cotton, hemp or cocoanut rope or galvanised wire, either solid or
twisted, may be used as clothes lines. The lines should be kept clean by
washing oGj'asionally w>th soap and water. The wire lines are more
permanent; they must he wiped off with damp cloth before being used
and must be free from rust. The best place to dry clothes is out of
doors in clean air and sunshi~. .I
INDOOR DRIERS
\
When outdoor drying is out of question, (as in flats in Bombay) or
" during the long monsoon, some provision must be made for indoor
drying.
(a) A good drying rack for a small horne is a wooden frame equip-
ped with rope and pulleys that will hoist it up to the ceiling easily.
Long thin bamboos are often used in most homes (Fig. 15.12).
(b) A fold up rack which can be easily made will be useful:
1. Place one of the two side-frames on the Boor as shown.
2. Select the seven rungs that are uncloured on the ends, and insert
them into the holes in the open side frame as shown tap all seven into
place with a wooden mallet or similar tool, so that they fit solidly in
the frame.
3. Open the other side-frame, position over the rungs in the same
relative position as the bottom frame, and tap down to locate rungs
in holes. Seat rungs solidly oy tapping on top of frame.
228
I
 4. Nat IIIIICt the nddpped raap dID .................... ud . .
two hoobd IIido-raiJI, and _ _bit fa ....... 1I&owL

6. Set up the met -on, ...............

5. TwIIt . . . . . . ......, tal'II tD lOot I'IMII iato r.....

tipped nma into the top holes is ODe .... or the _bIy and taJ(
oCtile . . .

toaetJaer

I~
~

- ~r(. '_

I (b)

230
 7. 'l1Mt1Ml .... II .. pre__ 1M S..... ...... nil JatO die
..................... .a...: tip tD'" .. _,.tiQ.
A IIeated .,.......,... II a . . boaa tor.,.............
the IIIOII8OGD "r titer oet4oor .,... .. ~
With IDOIt c:abiaeIItM'" ........ ucI ...... eIec:aic . .

..

Flo. J5.J5 . . . . .,... cUfDIt

is two-beat switda-oae ,_.,.... for .,... UtI the otIIIr
airiq. .fa ..... IDCNWD .... or iaItitadcm a .,.,c:abiMt
~ PI or electricity fa IOIMtiIaet provided. Por tbI orcH.ry
it ia a ~t . . . tt.cfore _ "III'".
~JIIOI
Wooclea cIotMI pep daoIIId be kept ia . . . or ..... fa dry
To preyeat . . . . . . . . pep may be CIIl'Jiod fa .......
apocial pocket or fa . . . . or bubt that CIa ... Jaoabd laID
liM ad paUecI aIoq II tM dotboI are . . . up.
'l'IMn II DO HC<l for pep. if t1IO ropes ale twiMocl aacl ..... fIIto,.
Uae'.

lIlONS
 (I) a.uo.I (Pia. 1.5.16)
(2) JIII& (FJa U.17)
(3) . . . .
(4) .......... (oanecI fIIced)
Alto awhbIe are:
}
(I) PlaiD iroas.
(2) 'I'1ImaoItaticaI, coatroDed u.s
(Fia. 15.22).
(3) PIaIIII iroaa.
(4) Staat electric i~.... 15.25 aad 26).
(5) Blectric Iroaen.
 ... ,,...

. JW. u.JI ................... (Cl . _ . . . . . . . . 01_

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 111'.,. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......,'"

.. .....
tl*tpld ....... wi. . . . . . _ .....

,
-1ftIJ ............. ., "U.A .......a..t ...
... . . . . . . . . . _1111., tolfl. iIIII1 dorc ............. .,


PIp. 15.19 (b) . . . . Ioud



B_t Dot weiaht. does tile work ba . . . . . . automatio iroa; rOJ'

llli.. dIeraoIIIU ..1'O . . . . . . . . . . . . . .~ JIO. . . . . .1raI wida
'l1le""""""
aaftCy.
.,u ....... ,.,............
Dot ....y . . . It JIG 11'1 to ..... dae .....

... ..,,....1118 --lai"

oI ...... ft ...... ..
.... ..DfU. . . . die f'aIwic .... iraaedaad tel bow
md e .....
.... ~ ......... to..." bat ,. . . . . . . . . btwarda
taMe. or., aM'" II....,..........,
tbI\atIa COIt, . . . ' . , if it is to 1Jo1llDd ., . . . . . who II DOl wry
, . . . to MOid .... 01 .... fa ~. . . __ til .., mall
ifta .... im ,

-
.... 1."- '''' OIMII' r .............. n. ......
 TWO MAIN TYPES OF 1It0000000USID
1JeC,,_
TIllS IlOf.u.y'J'YIIII ill wflicll materlfl ia puaed padded roll cad
a coacave metal a1loo bcMed by _ or more eleetrical elolllents. Either
shoe or ron may JDOft to coetact Ole other. Material is fed over the
roller 08 some JDOCJeb. _dot ob othen. StuMlard aize and UDder
portable rotary iroaen to available for use on IDY suitable table top.

Flo. 15.24 Ca) 1bo rotuy type Flo. J!-24 (b) Frat pa.a
TID JI14T PIlISS that has two padded, fiat surfaces. 'l1Ie 9PJ)er sur-
face i Ileatecl metal shoe with one or two electrical beatina elaaeDta.
MMetiIJ to be iroDed is pIIced between shoe and lower padclecll8rl'ace
caIlecl tile buck. The two surfaces then come tosether to press material
betweeD them. Most models have enamelled-table type coven.

F&\TURES OF THE MODERN IRONER' AND
WHAT THiY MEAN

\1-tetuJtne
'l'DaoLL On most models. roD is 26 indles wide, altboaP moc1ds
are awilable with 18- or 3O-inch roll. Roll should be well padded and
have riaid support to maintain preasure. RoD cover should be teJIIOy..
able fdr cJeaniag.
11IB SIIOB If shoe is healed with two ot. more separate electrical
eIemarb. heat can be CODCCIlttatecl OIl ODe _ of the ron when sail
articles are iroaec:l. th. sa'" heat IDd pIeVtDtia;& acorChiaa of other
end of the roll. Heat should )Je thennostaIk:aII CODtroUedsome
mecleJs have fabric dials similar to hand iroaJ. 1'1le bact of the shoe
IhoaId be insulated to plevent IGa of Wt. lrqJaiaa lUlface of shoe
_GUId be smoothly 8aished, rustpoQt JDOfaI. The shoe should be eelf-
. . . . . to maiattio even ~
VA1UBI'Y CBI ACl10Ml MOIHIrOcJeru rotary konen have a pressina
aatioo .. additioa to IiaIpIe rotary acdoa.. fte pnsaiaa actioa ItopI
tllelOD ..........", 10 that vary damp padiou of the utide . . .

 aay be lteId fa oa... ot 1IitIl tilt ......

oat. c.tr- ahoaId _Iimple to _
"1.......
ad..., 10. . . .
to

"..
Lib the roD of. ratary iroaor, tile bacII ahOllld be well
and tile cover ahoakl be 1'eIIIO'V8IIle for euy . . . . . Shape
ofdt.e J,Uct may '&I'Y, bat, for speed ad Iaibftfty. it ..
to haw it OpeD at botIa eodI.
'."ble;
IBOB 'I1ImDostatic C08tl'9l of Ma\ is

to coaceatrate ....t at ODe . . or. widl ...,.eo-

to mate u.peratare aelectioD IimpIe. TWo ...... __ It
ala. . . . . . ICGIdaiaa
portioa oflbe .... ~ of aItoe . . . . 1it".p. . .tecI;
_Dill 81Ufaee daoatd be I1IIOOt1atJ 1aiaIaed. ruatprooI'lIl_. Lib
type, the shoe should be soIt-aJianiaa.

D' DOllS
or the use of a damp preaiq cloth boca_ it _cs ....
The steam iroD usuaDy elimiDates the ueed ror cJua-

kODiD,lIIlfaee. For the WOJD&1I who .... dIi.it a cioaIidcalM

ead boIpI am clOChes the 'IDiIW Joe*' ac:hieftd ., taDon.
OP S'I1WI D.ONS MocJem Ite8JD iroaa ateCGIB. . . . . iroDI,
they Jive .... or dry iroaiD. as tile IIomeIHbr pnAn. Tlfs
about because a steam ko. alone is DOt the complete . . . . to
problem. Many fabrb require mare ~ .allotter
tJaaa am be delivered by . . . . iroa aJoae. For iastaace.-."
&ad Iiaens should be thoro1JPly ctempeMcluad iroaed with
dry heat. There are two typel of comIUatioa .... iroDa.
nIB which produces at. . by briDaiaI a __ of water
just as a tea-tettle does.

FIIJ.l'.2S _ .....- .... tJpe

I'LAIII BOILD. 'I'rPB . . . . _ _ _ -"0"0'" .........
cIropI of water como ia coatlMlt . . . . mate4 _ _~;
 ........ fI., ..._...,.tIIat
...........
,... .............., r .. _ _.u.ctdI
to .......,....,.
iron aucI perf'01'D die __ .. t1ae ...... _ _ . . . . ..

nr, ....... an.

fto. 15.26 ....,.--PIath WIIIr .,...

x.y pobItI in selcctloD ..

I. lIMY to Iaokl ..ad1a,
2. 8(11 ......... JIarcI -oqIl to raiIt ICI'IItc:biaa-

............t..
s. llPt WIiaIIIt ud.Jlot bIIIty.
4. SolI plate wida alopi.. llidelaad V....ped poiat

5. opeai.... _for sole plate IfOCMS to direct

.... .,., cmr IIIOIt of .... tarf'aco.
6. ~1IDII""""~rdIIiIIi.
7. bill. . ., ............
I ..... " ' - . , 01''''
W positive in actiOD.
iroaiDI ..... tM -uot euy to adjust
0'
~T1Iermoatatic control sole plato temperature darfq iroaiaa.
JIOaIUCCW.OL 1JSI
I. AIwa7a cc.aect to ~ wirida:
2. Pm- cia. . to 101. plate; do BOt owII.t or 1111 tcra1dly
........ Ute~w_ if. . ., , ) . , . . ad pial.
3. Ute IOIDO . , , . .Of iraG cord-holdw .. aYoid wear OIl cord
iDIUIatiall.
4. AYOid liBI iroa _ iCa .... or ~ ' " 01_'actory irOD
. . . . . . . . .. .... llIt s , ...... eiiNI_daawpd

--ae
by eoMtIIIIt tippq 0( iroa. TIle . .11 _ ..., to ran (rom

-_... ..
a tipped poIitioa wIaidl NIUhI ill
GO 1011 plate.
S. . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . r.t NlUJtt.
'-
241
..,
to laDdIe, tbenDoItat
..._...........................-.
it ....... _ ....... to . . . . . . . . . . IIIea.:. .Jewnt
 pRII .... 'DIeIo Iewn . . . . . witIda., . . . of. . opIIItDr.
iroaiaa Ik1ar4 of ~ . _ . I . . . , . .Nod to ......
JQfIDt to ..ryiDa tllicbellil . . aovered widl a tJdct peel
teallOVllbie musIiIl clmr.

These appHa.. ..y be auppliecI witIa. or &pUt froID, WUlIIiD&

~ 1'IIey are Iacated
operated oIoctric:aIIr. TWr
allows wort OD lat atticlea to
cmied out aeady, aad fa
mach Icas time thu by hIDcl
.... ArevoI. . .padded rok
tile artidea forward, , . - .
UDdIIIr tile electrically . .ted
widell preas it. TbeIe appIlIac,.
PJD. lUI All -"1nJaer are upeaai\'le aod are tuitable
...... illStihltioDa ... 1dIMIda.
CIIob ..... eI eJedrIc .., _ _
I. Qoose apparatus 0( suitable size for nquiremeDts.
11ae balance 0( an iron is alto importaBt. Some irona, for lDStance..
tad to be over-weiaJrted towards the heel, with the res1lIt that it
cWJicuIt to iron wen into pthen. Whea buyiaa an iron, it i,
wordnr~Cf pay ~ lIttent\oa to these points.
2. Information is always aha with ..., applilllce. ,latina
volta&o'~r which it is suitalle and either its wattaae or the alDC)UJl1
of curre.at (the ....mber of amJeres) it takes. In the cae of an Jr
WOl'lDatiOll is usually found on a plate just beneath the haadte or
tho IJack reaL
(a) If tho DUJDber of ampens is known, this fipre multiplied by
vohqe Iha th. wattqe.
*
(h) To &lei
dhided by 1000, and the reswaLtiDI tlaure shows the
hoIIn the appliuce caa be uaed ia couumhta
city, the cost or whicll is Down.
1_ D'"
coat of uaina ihe-appljpce, the .umber of watts

or
(c) Never ... aa a~ on a JUaber fOltaae, oufa1de tile

_ted. III'"
for whiclt it is -.do; nor on too IOwa vol..... 1a the IAIIIIlII'ftllJIiI
an iroa for example. wiD DOt be idequateJy
cue it will be over-heaJed. with tbo result tile wort may
SCOIdaed, the plate of iron Dl'ay be damapd. _ sooner or
tile ilea.t wiD ___ ouL

,.(d) Do-_ COIIMCtaD aW,.. . to. UIk or power poiat wbicIa

 to aufPIl. ,....,t 1eIt!:".
diet ~
Ie ... OD a . . . . . clmdt or OD a
ciJeuit.
5.,.,..._ ...
lIpIiIuM:... A 21:iJowatt ~ wattI~ ....... tCll' jpgc,-s. ....

apparatus must he properly eertW.

adjaat tbe appuatus . . . . . . curreat i. 08. It i .....er to
dtho main switch aear the meter lAd 80 8eYer coaaecdon
die power ado..
lIIDd~~ .."...t8I ..... . . , .....
Good care of your IrOa .............. K'Mp bottom or
clean. Wipe wida cIeaa damp dotIl. If Men sq. . .
,,101..,.111 or 1DiId . . SC01IriBa powder. NeYer ___ ita ill
If atarcla sticb, I1Ib il'Oll JiahIIy witJa oil while still .....
ospeciaIIy aoocl care of cord. Avoid botti.... iroDiaa OM'
or wiDdiq corcIal'01llld hot iron. Replace cord whea WorD.
:J)U1COD.ect at outlet .,..piq plUI iDatead of cord.
any defects aUeDdcd to at once.
 CH APT E R 17
,_/

Principles of Washing and

Their Application

Home laundering is an art. Like an art, it requires patience and

practice to learn the right techniques. No one method is right for
every washing problem.
The dirt which soils fabrics may be classified as follows:
(a) Loose dirt resting on the fibres:
, .
(b) Fixed dirt which is held fast by grease.
Loose din is removed by steeping and mechanical means such as
brushing and shaking. Fixed dirt is removed by means of absorption,
washing and dry cleaning. As mentioned q,fore, soaps play an important
part in the separation of dirt, but the fact lies on how the soapy water
is allowed to penetrate the fabric.
The dhobi, in his faulty laundering, boils and steams the dirly gar-
ments in his 'bhutti' first, and then washes the clothes by beating them
with a wooden beater or on a stone.
These methods are to be carefully avoided. The former damages the
garment by making the dirt get into meshes of the fabric and tenders
them; the latter only further weakens the article by causing uneven
friction, stretches them in parts and wears them out quickly.

CLEANSING

The important point to bear in mind is the treatment of dirt and the
kind of rubbing a fabric ought to receive so as to make it last the full
span of life. Wash clothes as soon as possible after you wear them.
Otherwise the dirt becomes 'fixed' and it is harder to remove. Soak
 pnDeDtrorUout3to4Jaoan.~ :"E"""""'''''''
if tJae coJoun . . lilt. ThIn .............. .-_,. . .
aoiW cIodaeL . . . . . . die ct ' powder is . . . . ..
iIaohIed ia .......... ,it worb . . . . dIat WJ. Do . . . .
tiPtIJ. It II better ....... c1otbe1 . , . . water WOIf _ _
in tile dIterpat **.Wetdaa . . . . Woro .........'"
.pat powder. The appopriate motIaoda are pvoa boJ.ow.

WAtlllllO ay IMMD ftICIIOIII

noc:aa 0) W..... die artide oat or die ' " _ . (2) AIPJ
to die __ lOiIed perts and nab oae put api"" tie .......
dirt is 1ootMed. (3) Work over tI&e wbole or abo utideJa"

-
~ . . . adI it is fally c_M4. (4) aiase _
_ _~.ua

IJIII
water.
all IQIP ~

(J) Suitable for . . . . . . _lCIuoiW .... 1I'tIdea . . ..,

. .teoa or tiDeD. (2) It i ........... tho ... or IGIIIJLI

B. ftICQDN IIY UBI 01' A JILU'I'JC SC&UJIIINO . . . .

Hot ~. aooCJ soap .... ODe plude .....
ftOCID (I) w..-;the article out of tho steepiDa ~~
dae Jaot wuIdaa water . . wriDa oat. (3) ~.,
.... dver wItIa a CIb er~ (4) ~ GIlt .. . . ,
-:==;':'
..........
. . . . apornra....... iDtbltabric. it k
OWl the wholo ~ die Mdc ill ... ",."tfiIe

'_Iable tor very aOiNd hou...oId artio1es fA., . .Ml_iIiIII '

.... jIIanIIa.
C. RICI'IOH IJY . . 01' TBB &IJRIMO JoMD
UQaIItaI Bot . . . i1Ia ........ ~_ . . . . . ._ ,. . . .
....... 'I'be ....... CIHI COD. . . .. . , ..w..ii a~
. . . . . . . . (0 ...... th arddo wfda Jaet .............
Place a part 01 it on tile rubbiaa board ad ..., WI.
part ot ... ..,.. ....,_ aIlGIber pat O'ftIIttlle ...._ _
<. .
tIae baardo "Ibit ca..-.
pendIIIIetlt " ........ ...,....or
die . . .
.... nIbINNL (.4) Wort 9\'CII' . . . . . . . or t1ae article .........,.
. . . well fa warm water. It is DOW read, for dto . . ..
VII SDitable for articles of all)' . . that . . . . . .a..t; ......
. . . . . . . board is ... ....,. .. lite ,..,. . . . _
a hanI . . ., , _ ......
Method II: Suction washing
FRICTION WIm A SUCTION WASHER
A suction washer consists of non-rusting material. It may be of
small size for use in a bowl or, of a large size for use in a tub.
PROCESS (I) Prepare the washing water of the required temperature
for the fabric being washed. (2) Make a permanent lather on the
water with soap solution or soap flakes. (3) Place the soiled articles in
the softened soapy water and repeatedly press the suction washer
down on the article immersed in the water, so that a good circulation
of soap solution through the clothes is obtained. Be careful to allow
space for the movement of clothes. Clothes will not be washed clean
if they are too tightly packed. When the hollow cup of the suction
washer is pressed down on the clothes, air is forced, from inside the
cup, out through the holes at the side. The vacuum force causes the
soapy water drawn through the clothes. The repeated suction of the
soapy water through the clothes cleanses the fabric. This method is
sufficient to cleanse normally soiled articles, but very dirty parts only
need hand treatment., (4) Use as many waters as required to cleanse.
(5) Rinse out the soapy waters. The fabric is now ready for the boiler.
USE It is a quick and practical method of cleansing large quantities
of soild articles, e.g., sheets, sarees. The fabrics aTe squeezed and
lifted up by the suction of the cup. It can be used on garments of any
fabric and colour.
NOTE OF CAUTION The suction ";asher must be kept clean and dry
when not in use, otherwise it will corrode and become discoloured.
Method III: Washing by kn~ading and sqzing
PROCESS (I) Prepare waters of the correct temperature for the fabric
being treated, i.e., usual temperature IOO-llOF. (2) Prepare One or
two washing waters with a permanent lather according to the number
of articles to be washed. (3) Prepare rinsing water of the correct tem-
perature; the first rinse after washing must always be warm. (4) Knead
and squeeze the soiled fabric in the warm soapy water without lifting
out of the water more than is necessary. Very soiled parts should be
placed on the palm of the left hand and have additional lather patted
through them until the dirt i. loosened. Use as many soapy waters as
required to cleanse. (5) Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of soap.
USE This method of washing is very suitable for delicate fabrics to
which hand friction cannot be applied as i.. wool, silk, rayon and
coloured fabrics.
Method IV: Washing by machine
PROCESS Before using a washing' machine, it is important to study
the makers' instructions. The following are a few general hints.
256


C8APTBil II
 2. Mead pnneata and ~ .... <_ Qaapter 16: &ealota1
ofStaias).

3. IleacmI aD aIloulder ..cis. buttODS. belt bactIet IDd trbamiap

(DOt wuhaWe) aacl dolo .fde.1aatam.
4. S&eep aU wldto cJotbes ovenaiaht ia cold water, each class ill I
separate ..-el if poIIibIe. A tbort steep is better thaa DO IMp. .Do
,., ItH, lor ,." ,_ 24 ,,_,..... tlw ItIIne .'n, III bactnW IlCIIoIr
tatea place maid... the water I01Il' aacI the dodaes _I be ......,..
PIece tile __ dirty IiDea It the bottom of the tub, ad bUmI liP to
the cleanelL Very baclI)' soiled uticlet must be aeparatod from JiPtIy
IGiled tvtid& It.u ~p OD the ..., IOiIod pull before .,....
Sbitt coUan aacl cutr. uould often be treated with bot, I08PJ _ _
..... I 10ft brush. TJaia helps to IooIal tile dirt ad iaIOIabie _ _,
ad tJaas aYeS dme aacl labour. The articIea Iboald be 01**1 out
aDd daorc1DaItlY ~. W..... aoda .....,. to...." ...... ad
. . . . die dirt-l oz. washing tOda to 1 plloa water. Ba"'cIdet.
__ be ~ aepuatoJy with aIt fa * ___ 1 tallle.,DDaftd to
qai'rt or water. s.lt. beIps to ~ IIDICUL Wbea tIIeN it daap
..=:; 1:1.,.,.<_
of Wecdoa u Ja 001" it is desirable to add also I diaiDrectllDt, OM

Itlrdl
or CIIrboIic acid to OlIO qaart of water.
Oapte.r 11: Stifreaioa A,eats).
D, a, a' ,
WriDI clothes from the steepiDa water. ~ . . .pDldicallIIetIlod of
" ''11 will depead tile typo of f'abIoa aDd tile .aaoaat of dirt.

hi.
OD
(See Oaa*" 17 : Prfaciplel or Wahiq aDd daeir A.ppIIcpJIa.)
All . . . . 01 _ 11'0 . . . . . . far ............ ad
..... w.. lDftaed .... -1004 1OItp . . . . _wed. Tempma-
____-..cIed lor ...... cottoaI anr:
............... 1_tol....
CoIoate.I..... lofO fP l. .P.
W. . .,1IIJDaticaIIy OM ~ . . . . . . , . . putiDIIu aua
. . to ,....., . . . . . . . . . . . . dID .... ad . . . ofa sIIirt.
.,
hat ad .... fA pocbD, CIDtre 01 pillow . . .
 ...... eIothea, diaotna any pIOfIIiaclepodta, ........ _ow
putiaIIy diliDfecta.
dodIeI an atIIllOlt;. prepue tile boi1or as tollOWt:
Haw tile boiler Iaalt fall of cokl __
If"'.at is ..... it IIaaaI4 .. tafteM4 . . . . . . . .
of IOIp, bat wIaea dim Is . . . . to be ....wW . _ tIao
... qaatit)' fllCIap'" be iMn.4 ........ . . . .
ftIqUIre4 for tlw two parpoIII . . . troa ....... ....
to eacII pIIoa 01 __ .............. .,. . II ....

later . . . tbe __ is tofte.d, die 6nddId _Ii ....,

. . . tile .... is wry lot, daInIore, dlelOda JI.f9t UitO . ,
ahortIy Won tho boIba poiat II ndecI _ . . . . . .

2 to 3 ta",pooaftdt to tach pIIoa #II . . . De .....

tor ........... woald be . . . . . . . or ........ ...
"oR. tor . . pDoa 01 __
t1II ..... ia . . . . . . . Wore ... __ 1"'111 . .
poIat aacI leave ill till boBiDa __ Cor 10 to 15 ~

be,..............
. . . I11III& be lidded....... tile ...........u ..... .

.... odIeIwiIe. __ will tile . . ....

the t1Jnac1L . . . . . . . . . wIda 6e1alliHtfck ' -

FiDe IUlcf ....u tbiap .., be pJaoecl ill. ~. or .. ~

..,........ wida ita COfDCII ad"_ .'PM . . . to allow tile
to pall throuah it. TbiI Dept . . topther ad ~ 1ft.
Old of tbo boiler.
Lift oat dotbeI. .... boiler Rick ad pat . . . . . . . . . .,
water. 1bIs cooll cIodIee an4 ........ __ to tn
~III'IO_
In IJadia .......... , . . , or .......... Ck6ie MId eo be
0IIIf...,
Ifwhhe . .ddnl Qt.r.,. ......
. _____ , . . diIc ___ JIlt lata
.." __','" or...., .....
poiatlor . . _ 1IoIIr..... . . , .... - _r
10 . . . . . . . ..., .....
11 Z, ..
fill ~ . . . . . . . .nH-.'dlqffGr ..r.....,.......
.._ roar ,
... U' . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . or N
af.
'boils' until the whiteness comes back. Avoid one long 'boil' to the
garment as it may weaken the fabric.
(c) Never boil acetate-rayon and nylon fabrics, as these will crease
the material and nothing can remove the creases.
(d) Once the washing process has been started and the clothes are
in soapy water, the washing must be continuous. The reason being
that if fast coloured goods are left intact in a soapy or alkaline condi-
tion, the colour may be transferred to other parts of the fabric.
IV. Rinsing
After boiling rinse well in warm water to remove all traces of soap.
Adequate rinsing is important. Three rinses are desirable, two are
J
necessary. For the first tIme use plenty of hot, clear, soft or softened
water. Hard water curdles the soap and cold water hardens it, making
it difficult to remove. Detergents may weaken or yellow the fabrics,
if not thoroughly rinsed out.
Merely letting your clothes fall into the water and then wringing
them out does not remove all the soap. A good method is to douse
each article up and down two or three times before wringing it.

V. Starching and Blueing
Bleached cotton and linen can be blued and starched in one operation.
(Method of bluev>g see Chapt'" 12: Laundry Blues.)
The starched solution is made up to the req uired strength and the
blue is squeezed carefully into it. The moisture from the fabric is
wrtrug out and it is h!,ng up to dr~
Gandhi caps, nurses' caps, men's dress-shirts and collars need extra
stiffness, and hence they may be stiffened with cold water starch.
The following articles are not starched:
Cellular cotton, flannelette, organdie, velveteen, georgette, turkish
and huckaback towelling, 'cotton hosiery', babies' clothes, bed-linen
and underwear.
VI. Drying
Outdoor drying is best as this helps to retain whiteness and gives a
certain freshness to clothes.
General rules for drying
For longer wear, easier folding, sprinkling and ironing, hang clothes
on the line in the manner following.
Hang sheets over the line with hems together, or fold with hems
together, then turn hem down 8 to 12 inches over tbe line. Shake
straight. Running the fingers down selvage edges helps smooth out
the sheet.
262
 JflaiIht ......, ........... En ! tIt.w.. D , . . .
towoIa.~ ... ....
he. . . aay . . . . IlJ ita CQl'MI. Tara aboat . . . . . . .
tile Ifu.e aDd pia--plloW - . toweII, ad the Jib.
socb aDd ltoctiDp '" their toee.
clothiDa by ita ItrODpIt pm: .... a1lirta aa4 .....'.
by the . . . . . . . by the ~ .... eettGIa bIW
by the 1ho1lklea.
~lolmd artidea aboakt be dried ill tbo aWe-pea . . . . . .
Two fOjJOl-twiated tnaether __ a po4 d.. . . . . .
'be iDaertc4 belweea the twIIta Of tile fOJ*.
.e....

'IILt.OWI8I ... to l1IO, _ _ aacl fear, too . . . aIbIi OD

froID cIIea, balar aoapa. ... u.. to aUd& boiIiDa .......
ietbeW.
amat" to eaIciaI . . . . peaItIatiaa 1M fa1Jric or to __
ill tlIIt.naeat. AMdler .... .., "" due to 1M aoiIDa .....
............. ,..yaJao .. at. to.' fIle_
rei'kll&dilll tile W8I1aiq .adlh.
del....,
. ._ _ t1le fabrleafter _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
or

~.Cor.iWtir.ilD. o1aiDed by tD9IId1ta that the ratio or aJbU to ap ill

bon i. at leat 3:1 aad ttiat die faD boiUDa tempendate 01 0'fCI'
is roacW aad . . .1aiDed for tea IuD - ..... WJIeD ~
beeA ~ to . . . . . ,or .faidy loa, periM, it"., be ___
fD aM 20 ...... hoD for . . . . - ..... Were whit.... ,.
1a Older to obtaiIl wllite coloat. tile . . . . . . . . . . . BOt
.. remowd trom tile t'aflrfc, bat., ~ ia~.1t Is eaiIy
of.,..., ....aft.,..
W the . . 01 10ft _ _ oa wIlida DO 8CUIII Jllmed. 'I'honMfaIa

...
after ~ tilt cop'tCt . . &Ie
. . . . . . . pmea.t pe,.... ill fafxictL
-.. ..-.
caa be titdlea jIIaraDs, dusten ad pe's"", . . .
 ia a . . . place. If die
. . . . etnipt "...
it wiD requite little ironiDa.
All that is necee.ry will be
steam pre88iDa on the bact
the material..... a damp
to afvo tho ateaID. and
a moderately Hi iron
it without snowing the
of the iroD to rest 011 the
and 8atteIl the pile.
caoAlmm This is a fiDe quality
dt8Dd~Loq
cotton is 1180d for ita yarn,
is Ip1ID with maay twiats.
Jiplldie is wasIaed lite coloured PIG. 11.5 1Ddoor", 01 _ _ _
and paeralIy does not
any stift'eoing, as it becomes atifI' wIIca ironed damp. When
"HUll is found nec:caaary. dilate boiIm, water starch is aacd.
tplld&e dries quietly aDd ahould be iroaed after tlpll ' . fro .. the
due .~ in a towel. S1arched orpncIie aboaId be dried
redampJa for flDishins.
lILAJriNBtBTl'B is .....hed ill the aame manner as knitted cotton.
thorou,h1y as it holds much moUtute. P'miIh when almolt dry
a moderately hot iron.
RRE-n.OOJIINO the material may be doDo as foUo_
DiIsohe 1 oz. of boric acid aDd 4 oz. of bora. In a quart of warm
Immene the material in it from 15 minutes to ll10ar ~
the ease with which it peaetratea tho fabric. WriDl ad dIJ the
...tent. Tho mimIre forms a oon-crystalline al.OIt in'filible layer
tho IDfface or the fabric wldoh meJo on .beatiq to form a . . ,
lweJliu which does not catch are.
_Mel
Wasbiq remowe G.prooq. Hence the tlatmont bu to be
after every wash.
Wash as for cottoD. UIO thia

smart loot or otheiwiae of a pnnent depoada on the lnilla it pta.

'W.jlbed fabricsto be 6nithecl faJllllldor the followiDs three broad

.. 'ABItI~CI JJNDIIID W8IN IVBNLY DAIII'

TIaia is the . . . . . .ble coadJtiOll for ftaft.biaa all WOftD
..
Mdca
 and an househOld cloths tbat .... _ . . . ~ They are . . .
out when half-dry, aad roUed up tilJdlyfor a ihort time 1IIdiI tt.y
caD be ftniahed by .~.

PAIWCS ma&IIIID WIIIDf Day

1bia conditioa is suitable. t~r bitted sarments, 80IDe tiD.ds of
rayon, nyloa. ~ and cnaae-reaiitiq fabrb. TIaey aM a looct
filii. when dry. TIlcJfIIre stretched into shape while dl damp and
allowed to dry ~ It helps to mate tho fiDishiq euier. A
moderately hot iron ~ used for lniabilll_
PUItICI DUll) AND U-DAIIPI!D JOlllllNlllllNO
Sta,tohed cottoDJ .... IiaeaI pye .. excellent finJah.... wJaen aUowed
to dry completely. Thy . . tIleD duapecJ OftDIy ud roBed up daff.tJy
for bait anlaour Wore ~Diahed. ThIs preveats the atarch from
stickinJ to the article aD4 iDa ditIlculty in iroDiDa.
the warm. water fot sprlDt1Iaa: it penetrates fabricJ .....
A 1;otde fitted With perforated
top or a small veaee-ble bnuJa or
,.~ whist-broom is easy to haDdIe
~~ and ICalters the watw evenly.
I ~ Sbab out lat pieces of about
\.,.; _ , j the 8&DHI size and. pJace in a pile.
PIG. I'" S&dttiaa warm __ SpriUfe about every third piece
aDd roll toaefIaer. IIIiootbcaiDa
laIzric aa l'fiII 10; roD a,Jatly.
Spriakle latp articles olle at .tiIDe, smoothiq wriatl. as you
ao..TIIia mates iroaiDa easier.
,:=:~y starched articlOI take more .priatIiDa than modiuDI, &ad
__IrilUlU_llUm tab more thaD. thoao withlisJat starch.
1IMdiu
Ptaco aD spriatled, roBed. or folded ardcJ. ill a bastot. 8I'lUIiaI
tIaem 10 that th.ose which are to be ironed ftnt are Oil top. Wrap or
COfti' with waterproof material .UC II Paatic cloth or oil cloth.
WatdJ. for mildew ill humid weather. Qp _ Iea......y ~
articleI Joaaer dIaIl241a01D in hot, wet wtadler.
r :... ., ,.lITh.
fDIIIMG is a qaict method f)(&niabiDIlat,l or...,.....,,...., lit
artioIea of cJaily use lib towels, dusters, titdlea ctou. and ....... .
1bo ardc1. aJaouI4 be evenly damped, stretcbetI iDao sbape ad
folded wJCJa riaht side oat ad ~ witIt a hot iroA ewer tile loJdI.

..
A boUle with a ~A -y be 1I8Od for sprint. . . Warm
__ . . . . . the cloIIM1a IDOl'e quic11J ad eftaIy fila dokI .....
no _ it paI_, lifted aad repJued, bat not aowd _ the
 JIIo.1U PaW~ . . . . 1PdJ aad wrap .... ill
........... _ , ..... damp

2. Place a bowl of .... 8IId a dampiq IDUIIia at ~

ccner of taIIIe aad a suitable iroa stud (of RoDe 01' ubeltol) at riIht
had.
3. ,...... . . ardcIeI 011 to riaht ... damp tbeaa.
It. bottle with aa improYiled perfoated lid eM apriatIer top)..., ..
ued. The Ant e.B dial thiDa ia aU iroDiDI if to . . that . . . . . . .

IaiIh is Dot ..-ed;

Ire 0( the comet ...... of dia.......
D'tIIey are too dIJ. alOocl
if u.ey- an too wet. it ia 0DIy a 'ttaItUf . .
aad fuel. Haw a smaU damp tar... towel hacIJ aad ipo a pIC."
cloth COD'ftIIIiCIItlor ...
4. tleulroL It. traiMcllaaad euBtlDds out the ~ Ia_t
tbat II reqairtd. A pncdcaI teat tor a ...... is to MId till Ir__
".)a,... A mocJerat81, h9t itoa wII DOt. . a art
. ". .1iI, a hot iroa OR coatiaa roar. WIIite lid ~
011"""
......4 cottoaa mould be irOllOd OIl die dpt .... Itoa dark
ooIourec1liDeaa aDd aottoDa wrc.a .....oat to eImIaate .......
5. ....... pub'" M tapeI, _ . " . 'ap tnt. u.. do dII
. . . . . . . . . . . . OD the WfOII8-Ik1e.
'- U. dilleR hID4 to uaoodlaud . . . . . wort ......... bat
__ to . . . . material.
7. Witl die top of artiDIo OIl left.......de, u.. die maID pordGa
., die ...... way of tblWa. ircJaIDa part t\at1Iwit.., InI.

...............
L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p .... _ . . . _ .........
dP& to ilia ad is ItmiaId ... (tel PIa- lU). DneIop tilt IIaIIk 01
I. .....hroiII.,. - . . ....., ttutiIIa &owl ,,_ die
..... ThiI . . .o tile pIUIra .......
 ,
Fringes may be damped and straightened to shape either with a
metal comb or a stiff nail brush.
Leave tray-cloth flat or roll from end to end. (See Fig. 18.10.)
ROUND MATS
Lay on table, iron on right side from the centre outwards to the
edge. Keep the threads of the material straight.
DOYLEYS WITH LINEN CENTRE ANO LACE EDGE
1. Starch lace edge only.
Selvedge Selvedge

E
~
:r 11
1 3
<.-. -2

Right side~4
_2
3

L1
,
E
~
:r:
Right side

Fold Fold
1 --2 1
Wrong Side

1 3 R,ght side 5 t Right side

1--!-------1-,-~
I I
oJ. Right side ~
~~2

Selvedge Selvedge

Selve'dge
" Right side
Selvedge

Iron as above
E E
~
~
Wrong side
:r Wrong side :r

Fold side Fold

Fold FOld

Iron as above Right sjde

Wrong side
Wrong side

:I:
~-----------
E
~
:r
- --~ - -
Wrong side Wrong Side

Selvedge Selvedge

FIG. 18.11 Ironing a table napkin

270
 kola .... OIl riPt ..... ,._ ....... OIl . . . . . . .
Work out tile poiata of tile lace . . . . . . . or ... ...

Ito. biD4JID, 0. WI'OItIIIeJe.

If heavily embtoIctered. pre8f OD WIODI side over . . . . pad
l)teIlUU thlm iDeIcIe. OIl the riaht tide. iroD the coatJe"
work

JW'D'D
DaIIIp, 'IUetcIa aad fold ~ iato a three ICftlIIl fold
hems in each Jaaad. rla1ltaicJe uppen8Olt. J(oll dowa for IIalf' aa

P'JIIt iron tae top t1Unl (rlabt tide), atcaowt . . . . tile tat.
Relaid. 1roD.Iia:IIdY at . . . . . . . more _ . to 1Dish.
Fold iD a1hree-tcreeD (old aGrOI8 aad , . . ...... - toP lor
(leO Pia. 18.11)'
(a) Be caref\Jl not to mate naptias too rdff ot .hey will IIip
tile be& at table. (b) Qaup folds 0ClaIIi0aally or.time: tllo
wiIl_ at tho fold.

"'t'" ....

Flo. 18.1% ..... fo1cII of tbIet far . . . . ....,.

, . . .... 1116
1. Damp,~"''''faJ4ia''''''14off'oet.
Prest ill tile CWIe fok1_ die ~Iicto,.:
... SpnacI_ die'" __
ItoD Wof tile cIotJI, ~ with _1MtP
tbreacJa.
itoafb dw . . . way.
S. Wold ill tIItto1It-a- fold '" ro1dIns but . .W eo eatre
PrtII ill . . f'*"-
late ........... fOld _ _. . . . 0Ii top IICftJIS (. .
18.13).
 8
Wrong tid. Wrong .,de

8V\/
A

Right .,de
t 4
Flo. 18.13 Screen fold of four for a plaia tab~
.........end ... oCIIer lucy"
~ may be of dift'erent kinds. Some may have drawn-tbnad work
aDd some embroidered while others may have crochet or lace ~ps.
1. Damp and roU down for 30 minutes to allow moistnre to
penetrate evenly through.
2. Stretch the ~ into shape.
3. 011 the right side iron from the centre to edge, keeping the warp
aad filling thpds straiJht.
4.-Iron the embr~red part or . .wn thread work on the wrong
aido over 8anneI pad. Give special care to the comen of the cloth.
S. 'R.oll or fold lightly in balf and half a,ain to form a square.
"Ole: U embroidered aU over, iron wholly on wrona side.
 4. Re-fold, thus making eight fOlds. Press on the opposite Side.1
Arrange the borders in place where necessary. Ensure that every part
is well pressed. Fold and press-thus making sixteen layers.
5. Fold the sari breadthwise to make it rectangular in shape.
Press lightly on top to give the finishing touch.
Note: The sari should have no creases. It should be one long stretcb~
of ironed materiaL
FINE QUALITY SARIS may be damped, stretched to shape and ironed..
on single thickness.
Fold as above-and give a last press on top of folded rectangle to
give a good finish. A heavy iron is a great help in pressing and gives a~
better finish.
SARI PETTICOA.T

METHOD I (a) These are not starched, hence start to iron when the
garment is evenly damp. ~
(b) Iron double parts and seams on wrong side.
(c) Place petticoat flat on table, seam to seam with hem of the
garment to the right and the waist band to the left. Use the left hand
to smooth work and stretch where ncccssary. Work from hem to
waist making the iron travel in straight lines. Iron each panel on bothl
sides.
METHOD 2 Use sJoirt board if a.vailable, as this enables the house-
wife to iron over single material, thus avoiding creases and giving a
better finish to the garment. 01
(a) Iron double parts and seams onJhe wrong side. "'!
(b) Slip the potticoat on the skirt board-with hem to the right and
waist band on the left. Iron.
(c) Roll petticoat over until every part is ironed. ,
TO FOLD 1. Place fiat on table with placket opening on the right-
hand side.
2. Fold the sides towards the centre so that the petticoat forms
rectangle.
3. Fold over into two.
Or
I. Fold in centre, bringing two side seams together.
2. Turn over the lower ends of the panels at the hem,
rectangle.
3. Fold the width into two.
BLOUSE

I. Iron double parts and seams on wrong side. Use left hand to
stretch the darts and hold them in position for the iron. ContinUej
ironing until quite dry. With light material, press quickly.
274
","'aD ........... ir.........."' .." .....
~ . . . . oa ....... I0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
... tJPt'" 'It. . . . . . . . . . . , , . . , . .. , . . , it.
wodiata ftaa die ft:OIIt . . . . ,.. ......
. . lid liM
1Iir.........., _
......
T__ .p ucI a ..... Won fo16a DIIIIy
.... shoskllJe.....-.s ....... I ......... tba ..., ~
~-
. If sleeve baIIIIs are . . a'll8i1llllt. . . . . . fJltIae ttirt .....
Of. ddat PId _, lie . . . . . . .W ...
_ .......... __ ............... rroa ..,....
poiDt.
3. La, siena _ tap mtide ..... PCllld . . . .., two, to . .
fona a fiIht Beat eqaare.
SALyAa

JIIR'BOD 1. Damp ~:::iaIlJ tile bottom Ileal aad tOIl

tfaIdy to eoabfe cfafaf-.- p;;,..
~ mary ......
2. Iroa ono lea at ti1III& ~ with the boIto8l ... aad
waist IUd oa tile 1Vr0Jll side.
3. Tum over to the riPL An:aap tOIIdler the two ceotn lOl.
&ad press toget1Ier. Iron alolll witIl the . . . of tJre loa aad "
outwuds.
4. Ilona a "ilk creaae _ . centre. RmDcmbet' dais crcae
as bIapos.1ut as tie cnuo or.. tIaJmeI trouer.
5. Jroa tile otMr IIaIf 1im0atly.
TO JIOLD Place ORe loa 0 _ the otJw-f'oliiaa at the -.are of
fortQae.
1. Fold the W'Ar iato 3 flClQal parts Iea&Chwiao, GDO lold beiq
tM end of the hem, or lower ODd 0( tile 'pollClaa'. Fold 6hmdas
iDto two. lenaIhwise.

,.#
, I
,I a
 ......... .,.11....,........... ....
,.. ..... rona ..... r.1I .................
.,.,..n, he do BOt r.......
tIlo . . . . . . . . . . . . ~....r...............
Delltsqare(seeF,..18.17).

, . . WIIOIJ SIDI 1.1'am dae be ni tat ....... tali . . .

Inm aD doable pufa ad pdetefa. 0Jreir., ... __ . . froa
6at. PIeIs Iiabroider)o, If _" .....Pit ........... tile ...
ill orcIer to raiIe till ...... wed . . . . kWtII . . .
todrftbe fabrlc uOuII4 \lie ......,. ,., . . . _

........ ,..,..,._ace
ad . . . .
..
II'''P'IIOII,. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1IRI8HIl ad IIMICW
~tM...,
olthe b..,..
pedI."
........... 3. PIIIOI.Jower _ or aIeee OIl . . . . , Iaoud
aadJ . . dI)'. W1tl 'oaa .....
cuIJi ad,.,.., ...
.... ..... tile too_die m. well jato die ~
~ aIeo1e. Iroa sfaoal4er ad u tar do_ iato . . rlCHd 8Dd
G'" Job .. poaaIb\t.
poiDtecl_ of the siirt ~ 01' a peddcJ corM' fJae table
d pad . . . . pod I8bItit1Ite for sleeve bou4.
or
Jr_ coDIr, if aay, lilt ......WI'GItI ......... _ . . tipt.
atila JOOClIoia1l it obtaiMl
ha top 01 ....- DO . . . . . &It ad", _hOllt.
PiItWl_-..rJaaJlolCW"",_ ~,.., hem to
tW*"""""'dlo ..... ....,aln,...
~. . . to . .

-a._flit ftdbovad

l'QLD p..,. placket 0JIIIIIfI bl frODt.I4

by."',,-,
, . . . . . . . off . . ~ toach 1If ... ,._, Wttou
aacI ....... 01'0t
. . . . . . . . OIl . . . . . . . . . . . . to
r... .
011 table,
.... tGwardi the ceatre .... _ the sleeYeI _ _ _ of ti40
l'o14 ill Iaa1I acroaa. See t1IIt . . ~ Of . . . . . . . 0IDtIe.
K_eez beps ........ if 1c*W ........ is p1ece4
dlo bact betWeeII the fa1da.

.... 1bO!G.. L Proob . . . . . ~ . . astilt_....

Jfdae IIaoa1cIor pa4s aN DOt ~ . . . . by Iroaiaa'''
drJ. ~ tile damp pH wmarttlle 111",_
tootoru. ....... pnMat. Nut . ,........ _ . .
'cIcMIl. tiadt 011 . . . . Iide.
1W . . . . . 1.1taa *' ................ __ or till'
m
aIeeve; iroD tho aIloaJdet &lid u tV dowa iato die front aad
the yob .. poaaib1e.
'**of

3. Iron the bodice first.

4. Slip top over eIld"Of boarfI, spread out atIrt ad iron from hem
to waist.
S. Gathers, pleats aDd tucb need special care. Spread out the

pleats aacI toeb,

ofri
pthers, preas die toe of the iron wen up into the pthcr aod allow
them to drape own acc!ord. Do not press on the pthers. For
dae iron OD sin,le material aJoaa the seam under
the lip or the fold each pleat. 1bea anaap tho pleats damp and
press bePna them dowa by the waaht of the irOD. Iro1DDa O'ef damp
masIiD may be Decessary to pve a smart fiDiah. Avoid 'trom lines'.
6. Give a fiaaI iaapectioD of frock u further touchiaa . y be
DeC.llary.
JIBlTICOAT
1. Wbea evenly damp, itO lace Of embroidery OD wroDa side ovef
tlaaaol.
2. Irou Ihoulder sttaps. and then the plain material, 'USing a skirt
board if posIible.
'JO JIOLD Place 0Jl table, froDt down. fold in tbree Jeagthwise, then
up twice or tIaree times (see F... 18.18).

Flo. J8.l8 flold (or a pettfooat cr lip

D1IC2IU
trOll-I. TriMm_iDa
2. Double parts.
3. Pront aM back Of leas.
 2. FoIdia ..................._foIcIwitII ....... .......
top (lie . . . IL2O).
COATOVIMLL

OD WfOeI- ucl .... Ilea.

I. IrOll doable partI aad pocbta oa WI'OIIC side. Iron collar JiptJy
OIl
2. 1roII . . . . on botIllicIeJ to . . . . .
Pat riIbt aide.
3. . . . . . . ot~
4. PIleI owraII riak tide .p OIl . . . . . collar at tile kit head and
iroa h ..... of rn.t.
TO JIOLD I . ' " , owraIl.
2. La, OD table, froid cIonwardt.
3. Poid tile aicIeI to dae CCDtre bact.
4. Poid in tIueo.
.c:ra' .......
ON 1118 waCJMO IIDB I. Iron
OM.,. aIGII'I''''
.J.
aDd all doable puta aM pocteu.
Ttn....-t to tbe .... .we.Jr_ ..,..
2. Poid ODe lei placiDa it . . . to IeIUIL IroIl OD dae . . . .we
fI'CK*CIMtc 01ltwanla. Mate the cadN creuo. botIl ill tb6 froat as
weD ..'at the . . . of tjIe lea.1roa the odIer Ita ja the - - RJ
10 WOLD 1. Fold lop _ _ _ . . . . . f'toDtIlaside.
2. Pold hick ftallDaI OYer Give tho Jut laishiaa touch 80
tlI&t die cceuo ran.
in it. cwiaiAfl position.
3. PolcIlCI'OIL ,

~(oA"" '
OIl ~ -081-"'"
ON 1'IIB WIlOJfG SlOB .1. 1'Iwa ~ out. Iron the d01lble puts
proceed to tie top centre of tho cap aDcI fcal a

...
~
~Tona cap to tile riPt side, told fa tho craue.
OM 'nIB uurr IIDB 3. IrOD with "."."e to . . tM necessary

~-- -.;,;.; ; , ; - or - 4I;[===""r:::::i..:;:akIe===JJ

t I
~ .... o.t'aAl-.
. . . lUI
. . : Cold __ ........ aa Cle N . . . . . . . beItIr . . .

- adld6.
 . . . tJI ...
OIl tbo
_,,-w .... t
riPt ...... tile . . tIIIll:l
Wlt .......... tolroa

F'IcJ. 18.22 ........ 7' , tie ........... ....

MI11IOD 1. 0.".,. die . . . . 2. pa ... dak Iide: 1r0ll the
to""_'
3. Place tuna Sat OIl tile ..... fI'OIIl.."..,... . . . to tile 111ft
aide lAd hem oa the rJPt lu4 aide. 1raa alOIII . . . . . ad
l'OCIed . . . .
of. Iroa from IIem to . . . aa'a. die . . . from.
,. Twna ad iroa . . . OB frotIL ........... toacIa., tile pIIcbt
'10 IOU) 1. Place lit _ ......... or ana .......
2. FoId.we. to. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ",." 111
boallder. ('l'Mso foJdl are ... 111 II . . . ~ . . . . . . . . . ..
11.22)-
cJIwnMtIe.
4. Poid fa.." , . h, ........ (_....
PoId .......... dtl..,. . . . .,. to . . . "
1I.2Z).

..
TANOmAMM
....... ,Jilnll-~- .......... ad
. . . . .1 I I ............. 'n ') r.,.,. ina
 2. La, OM 1. _ .... table . . . eoadDve it. . . lIP the _ _
Ieqth of the ................... _ .... woatiDa .....
to the fold. Mate c:eatn CI'IIM r..,.. .. to wilt bud.
3. Tum tJae pyjama oftr, deallHtII die beet .ill the tame _yo
Nole: Wort OIl oae lea at a time itoaias 1eqthwile. IIIld then
across ... widda. Complete ODe III u far as pouiIM before pmoeed-
iDa to dae aext. TIle .....t beiaa IIi&cbecI on croIIWaJ piece IIeIda
canIIIllroJdDa.
TO JIOID 1. Place ieP Wore.
2. Mate tho 3 8Cl'CIIII fold u for saIwar (see FII. 18.23).
Fold pael1 cmr panel 2, and 2 over paaeI 3. Fold the IeDath into
two.

-_ ..'---
I

Pro. 18.23 Pold lor . . . PI.iamu

. . . . . . . . .T
CIII TBa waONO IIDB 1. Iroa ......... 4Qpble parta placiDa the
yoke flat OIl the table for iroaiq.
ON '1'IIIl1UORl' IIDB 2. Iroa ,ob 1IIdil dry.
S. . . fbi collar.
4. IroIlcda .... siena.
$. fold beet ID W; tide MUIlI toptber. . . iIOA bact wIda fold
don U. ceatn, iroaiaa JaaIt' bact. tmlina" iroaiaa to U. otMr
bait OD the irGDId put (101 Pia- 1I.25c)..
6. Place witIl froIat ~ foJcl aa4 ..... ia the pleat,'**
wort:iIIa fto8I ......
1. ..... tIaiIt ftoBt _1IEk ................. dletroat pili&,
10 tbat t1lefIODl1iel"" - . . . . . ( - fIa. ll.bl).

 lIOLD t. Place OIl . . . . wIdl1llct .".......

Fold aicIeI towarcIa ceDtIe Uollt 1 iIIch from point or tile
3. Poid IIeeeI don ......t . . . . . . told eds.
4. Fold ovw the tail, rold ia ... <_Pia- 18.25h).
~ IIIlaT aJllAU

MOlt ooIIan ad cds today are &iveD ptI'ID8DODt

procell
It. _...
or IIIUUf'IIctIue. TWa II ....... ., pi", bet.... tbI
of tile tabric a eel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .,.,..., treated to

_tbet
and . . . . . . lleattaapplied. " . _ t . . . . Gil rot:'"
ia aach a way dial ........ II _ . . . ." ..
lllbial aad iroam,. 8ach ....... 1DUIt be iroaed _ _ wry . . .
'Ie,._
_ pod neaIta.

IRONING OF A MAIn SBIltT

2U
 . ..
, .
f ....
;--'\
,,I J

I
I
I

 Flo. IB.2.5(h) Fold for a shirt

BUSRssmT
I. Iron the collar, tbe yoke, the j~ck aod the sleeves in turD in
the same way as a shirt. While irGDiDg sleeves see tbat the link holes
are carefully closed before setting taJm place.
2. Iron front. first lightly to shrioJr and then heavily to set-iron
up and down the front to smoothen all creases. Fold as for shirt.
s.a-te4 froaIIIa roathles that bYe ,nmd helpfal
CHlIJ)'S Pf1l1Fl!D SUlIiVE

1. Iron cuIf tint.

Fold sleeve back ufon itself, mtc1ling cutr with armho\e opening.
3. Iron sleeve, cuft' side first: work point ot iron into tWlness at cuff.
.
4. Iron should side. working point of iron into fulluess.
~

.
OWB-SIWf SteM! WITH cR&uE
1. FoW sleeve fiat with seam 00 one crease.
2. ~ at seam crease and work iron outward.
3. TUrn aDd iron OD opposite side. Touch up cuft' and shoulder.
JIOa 'EI."rBNDI!I> SB01.JLDER l!JIIIBCI'
1. Iron sleeve first. Fold top of sleeve at shoulder in crescent shape.
2. Place hand through neckJine and hold body of garment away
from crescent area.
3. .Press HghtJy.
TWO-SEAM lACD!r SU!EVE

1. Pold s\ee"le with underarm side upward, placing DarrOW panel

approximately ill centre. Iron.
"2. Iron outer arm surface upto ytIlert underside of sleeve is attacb.-
ed to pralOIlt.
3. Fmiah top on sleeve-board.
216
 Flo. 18.26 YeCbodI or itoaiaa

BIAS OJI. UNCREASED SUDM!S OF ANY 1'YJ'E

1. Slip sleeve over small end of s\ee1Iebou~. l\.e.''1mve until comp1e-
ironed.
'PLU1S
1. Work pleaU into pIaoe widl8qen, a few at a time.
2. Pin or even baste at hem if dftIcuIt to keep in place.
3. Iron hom &rat aad wort upwar4, pu})ina pnMDt a1iabtly apinat
n. Work on wron, tide of fQric. if J)088ible.
mas AND ftllAlOBT GAtIIEUD UIJIU!I
I. MaDipulate prmeat. or Boa.that pojat of iron works into the
.
2. Use iD-aad-oat 1trOba.
3. DOD" iron overtoJ "' .......
3. ltepeat OD other IIIete.
... Iron yob. SUp ODe . .. _ ovw . . fII'-d.1roa frGm _ _
bact to 1IaoaIder......... troD ........ ~ JOb.
5. Iroa body of aIUrt ......... with . . float ad coatiaaiaa to
f'roatI'"
froDt (or iron bodl it fabric II .,... oat quiekIJ).
6. JrOD collar, UDder IUd'ace . . . ..,.1IIIfaoe aecoucI, WOI'kiaI
iDwarcl from . . .
1. Pold collar cIowD, preas O\'tr _ of baird.

..
Treatment of Woollens
 beoo... _,
5. It ia wcU to wash before it has sot ftI'J dirty. If'It
it may be impossible to wash it COIIIPIde.1J" wit.baat
clamap to die wool.
4"
die "... Is curled _
ftEPARA110N

I. Mead whero IltCI8MI'1 to JhMDt .....' ,ttM of ........

\2. Pille woolJeaa aDd bitwear are Hable to ..... oat of abape.
is beat for all be,illllerl to mart the oedkle OR a ..... of plaia
before 1NIUiaa it. 'Dto . . . . . after . . . wuIIIICI . . . . placed
this oatliIIII aa4 dried 8at OR tile paper OWl a cIaarpoJ or a tallle.
this way the sJaape of tIao prment will be NtaiIled.

~
Ot!.tI,........... on
plain ,.,.,

Flo.19.1 'fI..........

EumiDe tJae prment (or staiDe and l'CIIIlO9D . . . . Wen WIhiDa.

SoatiDg wukeas the fibrea. HoDce do Dot soak loqer tbu it
a fabric to bocome aatonated with die ....
Prepare all waaJdDa &Del riosiq waten Wore the . . . . .ts aro

C01d8daa nftWeat 80ap . , procIaoe a tatJt.

IIM:IIIDIG WA'IIRS
..tiler must be f.1IIPl1'Id ill two . . . . or _ ... 1'JJe WI_
t. toft. 'I1le tompefatare of ClIo water tIloaIcI be . . . . . .
Wto lOOOF.
_ _ WA" It ..... toue at Ieut 3 . . . . . . . . 0DIy
water IIltI8t be 1I8ed for riIIIiaa- the teIIIIpeIatee Of eM wattl'
be l ....ua lMwtll ,.,. lad ien'.
Raw aloft .... b1wh and a . . . . tower.., it .....
 IIB11IOD car WAIlIDIG

in
1. Shake oil all ctaat from ..~
2. Immerse the article water. a,ame by beading and aqueeziDg,
bepiDg the prment uader water .. !;r ~ J)pIIib1e. SoiIecI padI - ,
be placed on the palm of the left ItPd add extra soap sohation may
be patted pad1 over them til the dirt is 100IeDed. A 10ft aalt braala
IIUIIt be 1IIICI to reIDOYO~ dirt. Do . . _ aayfricdoD.
3. 1Jft ... 8I1icIe out of tile ftnt wuhiaII-ter, IIIf'POd it with the
...., aqaeezioa out the ..." water.
4. Wart ill timiJar III8DDOr iD the . . . . . . . . water.
,. Riaae tIIoroaPIJ ia tho .arioa _ten to .redIOfe aU ....,.
6. Squeeze aU water by hand, lay it OR a c1eaD turtish toWel lialatly,
pull it into -po, wrap it
moiatore. 'ibis will remove a
in,:. turkish towel and press out excess
deal of tho water without any
vfaorou - ....
It. wriapr is good tor wriqiq oot water (if OM is availablO fIom
_vier ..... Set die wriqer OD loose toDsiOD 10 t1aat the f.bric
does 1lO\_t.
_YING OJ! WOOLLBNS

"-:r.
SJaab, Itretdl iato _po and ..... up to dry on a haDaer ill dry
mcmna air"
_po
moisture.uJ . . . , . . quickIJ. FiDe 4elicate

~ *' ..
afticlel tbat an to Ibtch d8t of caD be drIod tarOR
01 a chair or a cue 'aaoodIII' to eaabJe (reo
~ Of air (leo Pip. 19.2. a, ."., d). Dry in shade.
Lift. ........ &una occu1oDaUy
~."W_I

1. NeYer boil or twist.

IU1I, . . . . .
_bleat.
_t
2. Never . . . wool prmeatI near heated radiators or in tho hot
cfriea up tfle wool1lbfe cauaig it to hecome brittle

3. Do DOt . . washIaa 8Oda.

Pn'r' ............
XNtfM wooIIoaI DIed Jittleor IlQ . . . . . . . . Oufcr ~ ,.,....,
lib paDown. juapem aad carcIipDs, alloald \Ie dried couapIeteIJ ad
pr ,I OR the riabt or wrq aide, ~ to colour and IUdIce
8DiIh Rq1Iired.
WooJltal tIIIt '*lUiN .......... GIll _1nIh1 witJI a d . ,

woon...,....
lnIIlOl' . . . . . . . . .
aJao1JId be ~ Wore .........
,.
Crepe
IIIetdled . . . cbJ'brI, - _ ...... to pomct 1IIaPI- . .
 Fro. 19.2(c) IDCloot dryin. by means of a coat-banaef
on a sdct OD a hot'le

Fro. 19.2(d) Dryin, wooUeoa 011 the back CIl a chair

........ WO". wooIIeM
A beautifbUy washed prment deserves a ,oodJob of p.resaing-that
last Mishina touch which smartens it up. Esseatial equi_pment for
pressUJa includes the followina:
I. A smooth wU padded ironioa board mate pressiq easier. Be
sure t1).e paddiq is firm and not too 80ft.
2. A hePy nap woollea pressing cloth: The use of wool ap.inst
wool helps to pRveDt IhiDe.
3. Cotton cloths, or muslin: Cotton clotlt' or thin wrappina paper
can be used to tOwr the damp' elothinl to prevent the iron from
stickiD..
2M
 4. A.poaae or damp .ada for appJyiq aiJtare is JleJpftll it a
pteU cloth is 1IIOd u4 tile moiItaro applied to it iastead or a
cloth Wl'Oq ftoID a . . or. . .
5. A padded roU maba the P I ' " of . . . . aad . . . . IIlUCh
be made by wrappiDa a roldecl ....doe with hea~ towel. A
form, wldch is made or ...... eat lit' a plaia ~ patters
stWred ftrmly, i. aD _ceJleDt aiel. alene preasins.
I, Always use steam for ."... wool.
2. As far as pouibJe preas OR tile Wl'OJJI aide.
3. Use an old piece of fine cloth; dampen and wrilll it 01lt
thoroughly. Press liptly with a hot iroL

GtaeraI .... Iar ...... " .... . . , . . . . . .

Good technique ill haad-pre8Iina at home helps to prolong the life of
weoJlen prmeat.
1. WOVOll wooJleas may be 'steam preaed., that is, pressed with
a fairly hot irOD 0 . . a damp cloth. Thit shoalcl be dono OIl tho wrong
lido. except whoa top aurfacc prcsaiDa ia Deeded for hiabina details.
2. Have a light touch with the iron. Lift and pNSI with your irOD,
do Dot glide it. Press lightJy at first 1lDtil tho moisture JIaa formed
steam. then U80 more pressure. Whole the press doth has boca lifted,
there should be a paU amount or steam rising from tho garment.
Then tate a lat backed brush and kDock it down bard OD tho part
Y01l bave just pressed. Hold it there for a second. or two; Jift and hit
smartly apia. CoDtiD1le tiD DO steam is Visible. This is termed as
'knocting the steam in', GataeaCI such as trousers. coats and
j&ct.ot~ can be ptetlMd ou" ill this way.

FIG. 19.3 SfIapIe 'PftIIiaa equipDMlt"

3. If a steam iron is used DO pressing cloth is needed iftfte gInIleIlt
295
 (1)

8/j}w.~_. .
(1) Tailor', Pad the "'O\Ilder of. coat

(3" 4) "Pres,lng TrouH""

(4)

Fla. I'JA
 ._,._atICI ..........raa .............._* ...
...... daetopof* . . .=t u4". . . . . . .
to ... Jato tile COIMI)K1Iftioa . . , . , 1l1li
_"1 .'"
,.,D._.
lido.
Preu tJle -w. witIL . . . . . . . f " ia rr.t ottMfeniU4
Pre. the UIIdeak1e ~ tilt .... tnt. . . the odler.
Ia . . . . . . . . . . . . . oItJao . . . . . . . . rau4 . . . . .
table or iroaiaa fMIu:d. ...........,. taiIor's ........
_ pnu.1f JOB doDO&:"" a ..... ,... roI '" a tIIattiIb
sad sip it _ _ die . . .......
PIac. strip ollllaYJ .........

&.
_ _ die _ _ pocbII, .,., .... or
oop ..... TIIia Wpa to . . .
bIt"_'"
__"'_'1IIIrliII:1III ar a . . . fII ..,..at

tID ~ .., ide 18 . . .

tGIdI
or . . fl'GID aIlowiaJ GIl tile riJfat IicIe or tilt _ _ after

Ia prtIIIiDa tro....worse"
NotIaiIII Joob
tile dittI . .ellily iI to 8ftIcI 40aMe
'tral 1fDIIt.
6. . . . .- ill the beeI aDd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... eoIJat,
. . &ad . . are dao ..... to .. ~ia . . . . ..
'I'bIDy are all remocIied, to albaitMl ~ by upt ".,.. or
...... tIarouaIt a moiIt cIoCIa _ _ . . _ ..... stil fuap'.
1. Tho ~ wily wool t.bri::8 oftIIl1Mcoaao ....,., coatlaued
is tbat tile aap is WOlD 011 Of II.... ;rit1a ..... It dat _, Is
IatteDed the sIdae CIa be RIIlOWd, It least . . . . .u,. Place
JIU'IIIIIlt l'fIIat lido ." .. ,.... . . . . bftI. a".wJdla woaIleD
a4 thea with die . . . . . . . . . .., CIodIt. . . . ~ ...
with a atift'bristled ...... __ ........... The 1JraI1aiq
......" _, hoe to .. ,......
8. This method of baviaa felt ...... of die f&bdc ..... pr_d
ftrY .tiItactory naaltl for }1IftIIIiDa all t1aIck IPafN'i*ls, aacl is a
method tor aJariatiD8 wooJJm fabrica Won beiq made iDto
 C1II... ".,,,
.....,............. (leo a.r
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ., .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 . . . . . .
20 - " " . l l t ()f CO"'_'

,...ID,.
ArtkteI).

_n.
\tarlno ...... or . . . . . . .iIIs wool.
oottaa," or.,.
od.ar ..... 1'Ilo . . . . . . , ..
u. .... or.........,..
.......or.-*
"'2.
wIleR
'-O'
wool ........
1IIIiaal....

to . . . . . . .10 .......... ~ . . . . . 2
"..tIiliatD tID.' . . . PIOP- .,.tatIl ... ., SIIIIL . . ,

....................
1IIIIIIII1 ...... .., welL All . . . . . 01 . . . .. . . . . . . . " G
, . . . . ' t'I ...... to..........~...-..... _ _ II
 HAPTBR 20

Treatment of Coloured Articles

Science has &Chanced 10 much. today that we have a very wide se1ec-
tion or abades and colours-iome 'fast' and some 'Joose.
~ ilATERIALS are manufactured in tw8 dift'ereDt waYl!
1. Fabrics made of thread in which the dye is produced within the
fibre itself. These materials are fast to washing, bleaching. and light.
c.,. shirti..... ginghams. zephyrs, household materials lite casement.
2. Printed materialt are those ~n which patterns are stamped by
IDaddnery. These caDnot be washed by ordinary methods without

T"' ___
considerable risk. ~ the colour is likely to nan to or from b8ck&round.

f~e. '
1#

All coloured and printed fabrics can be tested in the foUowing way.
W. a smaU piece on the fabric in lukewarm water. Place this
betweeB two layera of white cloth. Press with a hot iron. An watable
dye, if any will be marked oft' on the white cloth.

Flo. 20.1 How to test colour fastness

~AltA'I1ON POa WASHING I. Mend whci'e necessary.
2. :aemove stainl
<a> Tack or ran rODDd tbQ stain with ordinary thread, as it is im..
posaible to . . the staiDa when the fabric is wet.
(b) Treat stain with required reaaent.
__ "W. t' I
teat it tor colour. If wuhiDa must .. doDo to sueh -teria1. It
be c:arriecI out quicl1, ill cool soapy water followed by tharoash
and im1IwJJate ........
or
The most impol1a1lt pOint to rememf)er is speed wort iD order
miDlmise the risk of colOUR f1IImIaa. If IeftI8I utiCles are to be
...,.ed at the same time, they should be pacblutar .. I'C*I*, tIIo
colours beiaa tnated before die cIarbr oaes. 'WheD dyes appear
6Itliitift and are Jiable to bleed dlll'iq . . i.... a tJeItINDt with
acid will tead to fix thecoloun. A aood syIdIledc ....IIITlt will
harm coloured clothes but colours may rua becauIe of pool' dyes.
Always check &rat b, soatiDl a put of the cloth dud dota Dat allow.
Ifcolew is not fast doa't soak the prmeDtat alL 1'heJDOltiJDpOrtaDt
,omt to remember is speed of wort to miDimiH tile risk of colOllfl
nnmina.
I. Wash by uaiDg a suction wuhcr or beading sad ~ fa a
soapy lather. The temperature of the water sbould Dfl'eI' acee4 ll00P.
Lower the tempen.ture if colour runs. Oeatle trictioa can be applied
OD soiled parts.
2. RiIIIo iD ~ to I'eJIlMe die IOIlpy ...... _ _, tJtea
ia 10ft cold water.
3. Giw a IDal acid riDse. All additiOD of weak acetio add (I table-
spoem to 1 8811on) or '9iaepr 2 tablespoonfuls to 1 p1Ioa will live ..
added briptDes8 to the ooloan ad aeutraIito aa, aJbIiaity clue to

the water, and so pmea. any 100..... of till.

the preaeace of soap. Salt (1 tIIa8pOoIIfaI to 1 ......, may also be
added to the last ri1I8e, al it decreaseI tile i~ IDOeIDODt of

riDsiDg waters. ViDepr is necessary wllea soap il 'IIOCL

c:aUIed by the

4. waJNGINQ ta order to preveIlt traoafereace or dye from the

dark to the lisht parts, lay the article OD a piece of thick cleaD cloth,
cover with another piece aDd wriq without folcIlDa. Wriq out as
much moisture as posaible before hIDaiDa up to dry in a ahacly place.
S. When complete dryiq oat DOt carried tIarouah immediately,
there is risk to colour in p"tcbea. SacIa Joss of colour oceurs with many
cplowed articles, which have been allowed to lie about before drying
out.
6. Remove prments when tIley haw reached the correct conditioll
for'irooiq,and iron at once. Avoid tedampina.
7. If atardIiaa is required, as ill the cue of cretoDao or chintz, the
article is treated ia a coI4 boiIina-water starch. Draa water is often
ased for ,diDa dark-eoloared fabrics when moderate atifl'nesa is
requ(rccJ. "'1110 it aYOida tho tilt ofwhfte llliay marb appeariq on
fiDiUed article, as often happeos, after the _ of stucb.
Method of drying
..
Turn the articles inside out, and dry in the shade outdoors where a
good breeze would dry the articles as quickly as possible. All striped
articles should be hung in such a way that colour should run down
the stripes rather than from them on to the lighter surrounding parts.
If the colour bleeds, it is sometimes possible to save an article by iron-
ing it at once between two pieces of cloth or muslin which can be
bleached afterwards. If single thickness, it is best to dry them flat on
the ground.
Method of ironing
I. Use a moderately hot iron on the fabrics when they are evenly
damped. Iron on the wrong side out to eliminate shine.
2. When colours are still likely to run, the work should be carried
out over a cloth which can be bleached afterwards or over paper, to
protect the ironing sheet from being discoloured by the dye.
3. Skirt boards and sleeve boards, if used, must be similarly
protected.
Cretonne and chintz
These patterned fabrics are usually used for household furnishings.
They are washed in exactly the same way as all other prints, or, if the
colour is fugitive, they may be washed or in a detergent reetanut
solution.
Whe!) ready for starching, pass through thick hot water starch with
a teaspoonful or two of dissolved powlfered borax or a little soap jelly
added to improve the gloss when ironed. Iron lightly on the right side,
and then pass the iron over the material up and down until a high
gloss is obtained.

304

,

 CRIAPTBR 22

Laun~ or Rayon and Nylon

The JuadodDa or II.JOQI it the whole ..... to that of real

blat .... are a few importIat di6rtaca
Greaw care ill IIud1iaa is aece"'lJ owiDa totlbl ...... t8JODI
_ ",.~ . . . . . . . . . _ _ _. .. , .. , . . . . met
~ )GIll most ~ ftt 8treIaIdL Widl . . . . . . lou is about 35r.,
all with . . . . woa aboet 55%. Rayoaa aeoclllO bleac1aeI. A white
rayoa ..... IIIDIiDa wIIito to die oa4 01 ita tie.
W ".eI..,..
c1bIY .... ...-,ID
ID 01. . . . . WII'IIlICI8pyWIer" ..IUCry,

hpd awl.
_ wJaea the fabric 11 to W'JifteclOIIt of"~ tappGf'l it WIth U.
DOt puB it oat by catddq"hoIcI olthe oomen. TIle",
IDUIt be tJlorouIh.
ftirtIIor reJDOYal of ft_
As ill tM case of silt, twiafiDa IIlCl wriDaiaI must be awided. If
is DeCCary, place the article . . . . . two
~ tarkIah toweIa aDd apia prell the water out. ID QI8e of a pdated
fabric, a piece of m1ll1iD iDIerte4 betweea the folda will prneDt the
!Mdi,.. off of tile coloun wbea dIQ. tad to hIoe4.
WaD OAUlDrl'l lib ftncliap -..ad be patty eued ad
amoodIed to abapo aacl allowed to dry..IIt beeause they .... liable to
_..,
Iadder.ad to JeDathea it Jasaa up wet.

Hua to dry UIOOIl8l,..'" .... I.

tIIIl tJae weiaIlt or .........
.. ...., cliltdlNted. It fa a aooct tip to IUIIINd be or . . .
darOwias it 0,..
,._7'0:.
tJae liDo at tIlo waitt. 0arIaIatI tllat will atreIeIa
of .... c:a be dried tat.
II
De COIdtIoa for "'lJpe 01 fabric .... to be 1ttmt. Ullmell.
 IIIne laW . . . . . . . . .
...., . ....ki. . . . . . .....
"'' '.111 Iw ' a...
.... ............ it.., _ be ,.1 .ft . , .
aa....,
...............
IIIItW ill H
.,..,..............
t5 . . . . .

beiroaed . . . _
........
usto
~
,....M,. l_
.... ..
. . _ _ _ .......... _ . . ....
atoWl
Ute a cool iroD. ~ W iroa Inr . . . . . . . . . . . . _ die

--.......,08_...... __ __ ..
. . . . . ., . , ....l1li . . . ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
to . . iroa"'lMDJ .... _ dill.., GOCIIf . . . . . . . . apIit

fabdcII ............ ... ..,_

a ......., bit iIoa. &a"
...
.,.1aIJdeI ......... n' ..... ...., dodt.
To . . . . . . . . . . rtiI1t. ... ....,se B,rW .." ........
6.' IS,.
lilt. It . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
""...... or ........ fer ........... oWrlilllt
tile pna...... OIldil ditat pert.., __ it .....
............ _ - ....-YilJ.
rcn....... .., ........ t ......_ ... 111,. . ,
............. ., ......01"'........ two ....
.., bJ ....... wida . . 'SlbU" filii It"" to prodqDe
..._01 __ 01 . . . . . . . . . . . ....., . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CUANIIIG ~ UYCM . . . . . ., ... . , dID .., . . . . ~

..a..p an . . . to .......... oIahoade ......... - .
to ........ if ............
25:~
_w ...,_t....
. . . ianIDceI it II ........ to 4aycJ1............. It ...

that . . ) ou......................... ....

.. _ ....... _ .. tIIIJ e! ' u . . . . . . . . rrc.
...... 4.1. . . . .(My_ .....atGdaa}
_BOD. IiIle."...
.... Wash U for Ii1b. 0. ...... " , _ _
wriUfeI.

1. Dip in sa4a 2 01 S times.

2. Do DOt wrfa&.
3. lUnJe ill cteutwater. dmams anct draperies can be huaa
ilDlDOdiatoly.

"

an
..... sa ....
1. It" 6n is_ iIIIIet IiIdI$ . . it .., pJue.
2. Waab as for .........III. . . .
3. Add I tc8IpoOda1 t* pm __ ,_ . . WI pilat of Jut . . .
....,iBorderto . . . .
4. Place 8at oa a toweL ...ea oat _ ... PIll .... iDto ~
WIOIII-........., ......... _.
an4 iron bo8t
5. WheD aIIDoIt dry, ....,..,.. tIao ..........111.
'.Air~.
N_ :-11 it tater to spot IDd CdeIa del witll _ ..........
prell" above to ....

a.... ............
 !Care of Carpets

's .,_,... .......

Ia'"
1
for. carpet, 'bJ far tho IaOIt baporlaat ~ is

::.:-aD. ......
...... ..... NetI c:upeta aOilletfmc:!a ,..,. 1'IIia . . . aot Ql_
0_"""'"
fIl8hort
yam it W\WtID fa tile looIa, it .. - and
ftbre8 are met oaty putiaUy acIIaeriq to
t1te . . . IUa1l4. Nt it .... that pea _, whal the c:atpet is
cleaaed dun.; tho _ , da,.
of wear. Carpeet IIavo aatar8I teadeaey

.........
to '101" tMy~ don . . dais should Ret . . cliatarbocl bx liard

TIle c&rt ~ . , .. . . ill. _ , . is maiDly of3 tiadI: (1) Li&Jlt

clift or ...... (2) qu.r that . . . tadl .. tbrcadI. ..... 1IaJn &lid
(3) 0tit-dIItructiw ~ JRID-IadeD-carried I. from 1M
. . . . 011 t1le1hoes; it siDb 10 the IOOb of pile &ad its ,.."...au
~ are ",.ed ..._ pie by tile ptOII8Ure of tile DIU foot tbat
...... 10 tlat IIlOIt or ... Ibres are brobD from tie wry IJue.
Act.u, tlClalfDd orcirt .............. proce&
IUCl'IOR for 1iaIat ditt.
. . . . . . for 8d aDd JIaer.
"1'IMO for heny. pit workins cleatrucdoa at tile . . 01 tile ~

:::..:-tor .......
A...a.bon .......... w~haatlaetripla _ _ 01.,...,
_ . del ..........
....... tIIat 'f8OIIII
kiDd.ofclilt.
aer is ....... -to aJyo . . . . .
. . . ey wida slow IIDwaat. TIle CUpet,.weapK . . be ....

PIe ot....... lt it.a.ane for _Ina

......, for . . . . , rouad., tW . . . . qtdloaailltot-- ...
1Ip . . . . . . . . . . .
otIIIr 1iIIIr. Poi ctdy ~JOft . . . __ it eqqaDy . . . . if'
It it . . appIiD&l too ..tpousIJ.1J.waJa __ ill . . . . . . 01_
ammonia, as they contain alkalies. Another point to bear in mind is
that repeated treatments are not recommended. The solutions leave
behind a slight residue, which eventually leads to a more rapid rate

of resoiling.
4. Do not saturate the carpet; not only does it weaken the backing
but also mildew growth or bacterial action may start during the long
time taken in drying.
5. With a fresh stain act quickly, mopping up as much of the
I
liquid as possible with blotting paper or absorbent undyed cotton
cloth. (For stain-removal, see Chapter 16.) ~
Hints and tips on carpet care
1. Always have underfelt under your carpet. It is well-worth e
little extra expense by prolonging their life. Use newspaper underneath
the carpets, as this stops the cold air from rising. It also serves to
protect the carpet.
2. Wherever possible plan so that carpets can be liCted and turned
I
round to spread the wear evenly. Bad spots for wear are obvious-
just inside doorways around the tables, in the dining rooms and so on.
3. In the case of fitted carpets, re-arrangement of the furniture.
will often redirect traffic and equalise wear over the surface.
4. Rugs can be very useful for protecting the main carpet at key
points, such as outside a door, under a desk.
5. Alway\ see that a pile stair carpet is laid with the pile running
towards the bottom of the stairs.
With any stair carpet, always huy a sufficient length so that it can
. be moved up o~ down a fe~ inches 3 or 4 times a year. Otherwise
wear will quickly occur where the carpet bends over the edge of the
, stair.
MOTH-PROOFING OF CARPETS Moth-proof agents can be purchased
which are either spirit or water soluble. Add the right amount to the
Jast rinse or sponging water. New patent insectisides containing D.D.T."
or Dieldren are noW available. All that is required for protection is
an occasional spraying with one of these insectiaides, particularly,
under the edge of the carpet. Remember wool-rating insects
dark corners where they can remain undisturbed.

328
is going to do with the batik piece. The material sbould be free of
starch and ironed properly.
Using wax as a resist
When the material is ready for the work the selected design needs to
be drawn on the fabric and then start working. The type of wax is
selected according to the particular design on which one is working.
A standard combination contains equal quantities of bees wax and
paraffin wax. If the quantity of paraffin wax is increased then the
cracks would be much more for, the higher the paraffin content the
more friable the wax.
The mixture of the wax is heated. It should be uniformly heated
and must not smoke or over-boil. Tbis melted wax is applied on the
fabric with the help of the brush or T-janting. For better effect the
waxing should be done twice on either side of the material. The
portions that arc required blank (white) should be waxed.

The dyebath
Most commonly used dyes for 'Batik' work are the 'Naphthol dyes'.
They are also known as cold dyes Or ice dyes.
METHOD
A. Take one teaspoonful of naphthol colour in a bowl and mix
thoroughly witlJ'two teaspoonful of turkey-red oil. Then add 50 m of
boiling water, stir well and then add 2-3 pallets of caustic soda, heat
it and stir it properly till the solution becomes transparent.
B. Take two teaspoonful of napitthol salt in another bowl and add
to it 3-4 teaspoonful of common salt, mix well and add to it 50 m!.
of water.
o Now take two basins and take in them enough water to dip the
waxed fabric. In first basin add the solution from bowl A and in
second add the solution from the bowl B. Next soak the waxed fabric
in water, squeeze out excess water, open the fabric and dip it in a
naphthol colour solution (first basin). Work for 10 minutes in the
above solution, squeeze out the excess dye, open the fabric and then
dip it in naphthol salt solntion (second basin). Again work for 10
minutes, remove it, wash it, and soap it. First always start with a
lighther colour and then proceed with the darker colour.
Removal of wax
The wax can be removed by boiling the fabric in a soap solution con-
taining a little of caustic soda. But before that it is better that the
excess of wax is removed by rubbing. The wax can also be removed
by petrol bnt it is an expensive process.
334
....
Ih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..twol. . .....,. .
.. r....
J. Soda Vat
2. . . . Vat
then in the cooling bath. When the bath becomes cold it is taken out
and washed thoroughly to remove all superfluous particles. The mate-
rial is then raedy for dyeing.
Mordanting (cbromium salts)
Wool can be mordanted with chromium floride from a 2% solution
of the same and also containing an equivalent quanity of acetic acid.
Mordanting is started in cold and then the temperature is gradually
raised to boil, the wool is then mordanted within one hour. The
chromium floride bath can be re-used after replenishing. The acid
concentration should not. however, be allowed to increase.
Addition of a little tin-chloride crystals in the mordanting bath
brightens the shade. .
In dyeing wool, temperature of the bath is best found to be 80C
than 100C.

Pomegranate rind (anar)

the coarse powder of the rind
The colouring matter is extracted from
by boiling with water. Generally two extractions are necessary to
extract most of the colour. The infusion is strained from a piece of
calico and the insoluble residue is thrown away. The infusion is
coloured yellowish brown.
Wool is dyed a 20% shade by first boiling the material two hours
in the mfusion of the rind. The material is then left to cool in the bath
for 12 hours, ~hen squeezed and developed in a bath containing 3-4%
bichromate of potash or soda and about 1-2% acetic acid. The wool
i~ worked in cold for a few minutes and the temperature of the bath
is then raised to boil and the ~ol worked in it for a period of 20-30
minutes. Finally it is washed and thoroughly soaped. The material is
then passed through a bath to which a little tartaric is added and dried
without washing.
Blacks can be obtained in combination with iron salts. The material
is treated in a bath containing 25% of rind infusion at 60'C for about
an hour and left to cool overnight. Next day it is squeezed and worked
up in a lukewarm bath containing 5% ferrous sulphate for about
10 minutes and then thoroughly washed. A darker shade is obtained
by repeating the process taking only 10% of the extracts again and~
then developing in 3% solution of iron sulphate.
Tesso
A fleeting yellow is obtained from the flowers which are dried and
steeped in about twice the amount of water for some time, after which
the whole is boiled till the volume is reduced by half. It is then strained
and allowed to coo]. j
.
336
 Storing of Oothes

'De ...... of deIaIuctioa of . . . . . . . . . . to . . . . . . . ."

,1ItJI. I . . . . . . . . . . iaaedI it . . . . to ..-iII,..e.atioD of
. . . .1 ~ Thefollowi.,are_oI_. . .Jrichca
be ..."., fdIowe4 to awid dame" of woon. .... other aoods of

::r:;'l..
L ~..,... tIaoJo1Iably and oftoa .keep tliem flee from clast.
...., . . ~ Shake we11..-ore bnJabiaa. Sun aad air tiD the
........... dlo motU ._".
\ ~.: ~ 0.--* ....... biea WOlD ahoalcl DOt be put ._, 1IIidl
. . . . ..,. . . . . . . . . . . . aired. Capbouda, boua, ad . . . .
........ boaia4~.
a........ .... ... IauacJencI frequeatly. Wooq.
qIIIIs,_,'" ......_ ~
tMIui4 ~ ... pra..... ~
..... _ _ ,,~ llaoa1d bIt_~ OO"leioaallJ U.
BOt . . . . . . .u . . . . .., before ..... it ... ~ drJ-dt.....
4. . . . . ~ aMaIcl be ......,.. ................
",,1".'3
.... pi 1(. . .' " . . . . . . . . . IIIiCl .......... daey . .
M......... _ . . . . . . . . sit propertJ GIl
~~ ott.. lades tJae c:oIGur oIlWlrb, Jaonoe procetI them ...
Xeep ...
. . . . . . . . tor tluItpllJ'pOle. ,.nnentl ill . . . . . .
...... '*f'nMIaeadJ...-r
I. Do ... pat ...,..,.... ia a...,
CODdItioa. M* . . .
. . _ _ Iddew. wIaich peaetaa... iIdo tile fttIre. elwqeI ita _ _
II . ._,..... _ _ it to ran to piec& 'I'biI CIIl . . . . . , pewa1fId
by brushing the garment each time after wearing, and hanging and
storing it away in a dry place in a perfectly dry condition,
7. Protect textiles from destructive insects. The moth grubs feed
upon wool fabrics, carpets, furs, and feathers. The moth is gray iu
colour. These pests can be prevented as follows:
(a) Spraying: Wool and its storage place may be sprayed with a
fluid or dust insecticide in which D.D.T. is incorporated to give
it a measure of permament protection obtained.
(b) Repellants such as tobacco, dried ueem leaves, cedar chips,
camphor, and moth balls which are sometimes recommended
are of doubtful value and cannot be relied on. These repellants,
however, will not have any effect upon the eggs or larvae in the
g,ument. Moth balls are effective only so long as a sufficient
concentration of vapour is maintained. Naphthalene flakes are
more efficient than the traditional moth balls. Paradichlorben-
zene is the best repellant, but it is not so cheap.
(c) Packing: Pack away all woollens and furs wrapped in news-
papers, as the moth dislikes printer's ink. The box may be lined
and covered with tarred paper. Cedar chips, sandal wood dust,
dry eucalyptus and neem leaves are good as long as their odour
lasts.
(d) Fumigation with a poisonous gas, e.g., hydrocyanic acid. It
destroys grubs and moths, but it is dangerous to use.and calls
for specialist,jlandling.
(e) Addition of an insecticide to the wool: This entails adding a
substance to the wool which either poisons the larvae or
penders the wool indigestible.';" German chemist, Mcckbach,
carried OlJt cxtcn~ive experiments to investigate it. Further
researches are being cantin ued by scientists.
To sum up, it may be said that although there is no perfect and
completely moth-proofing agent, there are many varieties and a
reasonably satisfactory one can be selected for any particular purpose.

340
apparent that all these impediments would have to be corrected, and
as a result this process came into being. Deferred curing or fixing
occurs after the flat fabric there is now a 'memory' to the shape of
the garment in its made-up form. The shape is looked in and wrinkl-
es are locked out. There are flat seams, no puckering, and a smooth
fabric without flaws becomes apparent. No ironing is necessary in this
type of garment, a condition that is not fully possible, generally
speaking with even the hest of wash-and-wear articles.
Advantages of permanent press include ease of care, wash-and-wear
properties, thus doing away with drudgery and saving time for the
person involved, while at the same time the treated fabric will retain

its soft, pliable, resilient qualities to the satisfaction of the wearer .

-

,

343

,
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

I
l Ali, A. Yusuf, A Monograph of Silk Fabrics in N. W. Province &
I
,
Oudh.
2 Bray, Helen A., Textile Fibre.'), Yarns and Fabrics.
3 Bendure, Zelam, Gladys pfeiffer, America's Fabrics.
4 Botter, Max, it10dern Bleaching Agents and Detergents, Scott,
Greenwood anson.
5 Brown, William, What's Wrong and Why with Laundry Work,
Heywood & Company Ltd; London, and The National Trade
Press, London.
6, Conveyrs, Frank, Cleaning and Dyeing Proficiency, Heywood &
Company Ltd; London, 1947.
7 Chandra, Moti, The History of Indian COSfllme from I-VlI c.
8 Evans, Mary and E.B. McGowan, A Guide to Textiles, The
National Trade Press, London, 1950.
9 Fletcher, Kathleen, Laundry work, Sir Isaac Pitman and Sons,
London, 1945.
10 Gulati, A.N., The Patoiu of GlIjarat, Museums Association of
India.
11 Henney, E. and J.D. Byett, Modern Home Laundry work, J.M.
Dent & Sons Ltd; London, 1948.
12 Hall A.J., The Standard Handbook of Textiles, The Appleton
Century Company, London.
13 Hess, K.i>hcrine P., Textile Fibres and Their Use, J.B. Lippin
Cott Company.
14 Indian Indigenous Dyesfor Use in Dyeing, Internalional Wool
Secretariat, London.
15 Jackman A. and B. Rogers, The Principles of Domestic and
Institutional Laundry work, Edward Arnold and Co., London,
1946.
t 16 Kershaw, S., Wool, The Burke Publishing Co, Ltd., London.
17 Laundry Work-Principles and Practice, Sir Isaac Pitman &
Sons Ltd., London, 1947.
18 Marshall, John, Moltenjodaro and the Indus Civilization, Volume

I, II.
19 Mathews, John Irwin Watt, Textiles and the Minor Arts House
Craft.
May, Arthur Y., The Story of Wool, Sir Pitman and Sons,

l" London.
--. . ..
,.... ........
Z ..

Mtl4I1I._-
II IjIMm8
2J2