Hydrodistillation: Myroxylon Balsamum, Storax, Myrrh
Hydrodistillation: Myroxylon Balsamum, Storax, Myrrh
Hydrodistillation: Myroxylon Balsamum, Storax, Myrrh
distillation, cohobation, maceration and enfleurage are the most traditional and commonly used
methods.
Maceration is adaptable when oil yield from distillation is poor. Distillation methods
are good for powdered almonds, rose petals and rose blossoms, whereas solvent extraction is
suitable for expensive, delicate and thermally unstable materials like jasmine, tuberose, and
hyacinth. Water distillation is the most favored method of production of citronella oil from plant
material.
Essential oils are generally derived from one or more plant parts, such as flowers (e.g.
rose, jasmine, carnation, clove, mimosa, rosemary, lavander), leaves (e.g. mint, Ocimum spp.,
lemongrass, jamrosa), leaves and stems (e.g. geranium, patchouli, petitgrain, verbena,
cinnamon), bark (e.g. cinnamon, cassia, canella), wood (e.g. cedar, sandal, pine), roots (e.g.
angelica, sassafras, vetiver, saussurea, valerian), seeds (e.g fennel, coriander, caraway, dill,
nutmeg), fruits (bergamot, orange, lemon, juniper), rhizomes (e.g. ginger, calamus, curcuma,
orris) and gums or oleoresin exudations (e.g. balsam of Peru, Myroxylon balsamum, storax, myrrh,
benzoin).
Hydrodistillation
In order to isolate essential oils by hydrodistillation, the aromatic plant material is packed
in a still and a sufficient quantity of water is added and brought to a boil; alternatively, live steam
is injected into the plant charge. Due to the influence of hot water and steam, the essential oil is
freed from the oil glands in the plant tissue. The vapor mixture of water and oil is condensed by
indirect cooling with water. From the condenser, distillate flows into a separator, where oil
separates automatically from the distillate water.
Hydrolysis
Hydrolysis in the present context is defined as a chemical reaction between water and
certain constituents of essential oils. Esters are constituents of essential oils and, in the presence
of water, especially at high temperatures, they tend to react with water to form acids and
alcohols. However, the reactions are not complete in either direction and the relationship
between the molal concentrations of various constituents at equilibrium is written as:
(alcohol) x (acid)
K=
(ester) x (water)
where K is the equilibrium constant.
Therefore, if the amount of water is large, the amounts of alcohol and acid will also be
large, resulting in a decreased yield of essential oil. Furthermore, since this is a time-dependent
reaction, the extent to which hydrolysis proceeds depends on the time of contact between oil and
water. This is one of the disadvantages of water distillation.
Effect of Heat
Almost all constituents of essential oils are unstable at high temperature. To obtain the
best quality oil, distillation must be done at low temperatures. The temperature in steam
distillation is determined entirely by the operating pressure, whereas in water distillation and in
water and steam distillation the operating pressure is usually atmospheric. All the previously
described three effects, i.e. hydrodiffusion, hydrolysis and thermal decomposition, occur
simultaneously and affect one another. The rate of diffusion usually increases with temperatures
as does the solubility of essential oils in water. The same is true for the rate and extent of
hydrolysis. However, it is possible to obtain better yield and quality of oils by: (1) maintaining
the temperature as low as possible, (2) using as little water as possible, in the case of steam
distillation, and (3) thoroughly comminuting the plant material and packing it uniformly before
distillation.
Distillation is the most common method used to extract perfume oil from flowers. The distillation
technique is based on the ability of steam to capture essential oils. As the steam rises through the flowers,
it captures the scent-bearing components which are then cooled.
Extraction using volatile solvents consists of dissolving the fragrance-bearing part of the plant in a
solvent, usually an alcohol, which is then evaporated.
Absorption. The original method in French is called Enfleurage. Hot absorption consists of steeping
flowers or other scent-bearing materials in pre heated fats or oils. Since fragile flowers such as jasmine,
tuberose and daffodil cannot withstand heat, the technique of cold absorption was developed.
jasmine essential oil extracted from jasmine plant, is known for its warm, exotic floral aroma. Jasminum officinalis
is the botanical name of this herbal plant, but it is more commonly known as Jasmine. The term Jasmine has been
derived from 'yasmin', a Persian word which is used to refer to an aphrodisiac. However, the Indians and Chinese
have more often used the Jasmine essential oil for medicinal purposes.
Essential oils can be extracted using a variety of methods, although some are not commonly used today. Currently,
the most popular method for extraction is steam distillation, but as technological advances are made more efficient
and economical methods being developed.
Steam Distillation :
Distillation is the most widely used and the most economical method of extracting essential oils. There is a great
deal of skill involved in the process of distillation in the if the precious essential oil is not to be lost or changed in its
composition. Some plants are distilled immediately after harvesting, whereas others may be left for a few days or
even dried prior to extraction. In distillation, the plant material is heated, either by placing it in water which is
brought to the boil or by passing steam through it. The heat and steam cause the cell structure of the plant material to
burst and break down, thus freeing the essential oils. The essential oil molecules and steam are carried along a pipe
and channelled through a cooling tank, where they return to the liquid form and are collected in a vat. The emerging
liquid is a mixture of oil and water, and since essential oils are not water soluble they can be easily separated from
the water and siphoned off. Essential oils which are lighter than water will float on the surface, whereas heavier oils
such as clove will sink.
Now, this doesn't sound like a particularly complicated process but did you know that it takes more than 8 million
Jasmine flowers to produce just 2 pounds of jasmine oil? No wonder pure essential oils are expensive!
Jasmine absolute oil is known to be an important ingredient in making perfumes such as Chanel No. 5
and Eau de Sauvage from France. In culinary, it is used to add flavor to alcohol, confectionery (candies)
and desserts. It is also added to body lotions, shampoos and soaps.
In South India, jasmine flowers are used in garland preparation and as a hair decoration.
The essential oil is composed of various properties such as benzyl acetate, linalool, benzyl alcohol,
indole, benzyl benzoate, cis-jasmone, geraniol, methyl anthranilate. It contains traces of p. cresol,
farnesol, cis-3-hexenyl benzoate, eugenol, nerol, ceosol, benzoic acid, benzaldehyde, y-terpineol,
nerolidol, isohytol and phytol.
Jasmine absolute oil is known to be an effective aphrodisiac with seductive qualities. It may help address
sexual problems like premature ejaculation and impotence. When used by lovers, it's believed to help
release strong sexual energies and stimulate sexual chakra. It also works great when used during yoga.3
The essential oil contains carminative, emmenagogue, expectorant, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and
tonic agents. Other benefits of jasmine absolute oil include: 4
Rejuvenates skin. It can help in treating dry or dehydrated skin, eczema and dermatitis. However, it
should not be applied to open wounds as it can cause skin irritation or allergic reaction.
Relieves menstrual problems and labor pains. Jasmine absolute oil may help relieve pain during
menstruation, and may assist in regulating a woman's menstrual cycle. It may also be beneficial during
childbirth because it is reported to strengthen contractions and promote breast milk flow.5
Works as an antiseptic. The benzaldehyde, benzoic acid and benzyl benzoate in this essential oil have
antiviral and germicidal properties. It may prevent infections when applied to wounds.
Treats spasms. It aids in alleviating spasmodic cough, stomach cramps and spasms in other body parts.
Mind relaxation. The oil can improve your state of mind by inducing confidence, optimism and euphoria.
It helps banish fear, guilt and stress.6 The aroma of the oil may help relax and uplift the spirit. 7
To achieve the highest quality oil, jasmine flowers have to be harvested at night as they secrete a
powerful fragrance before sunrise. Be careful in picking the flowers and avoid "bruising" them, because
bruised flowers will produce an unpleasant fragrance. Jasmine absolute oil has a golden to brown color.
Jasmine absolute oil is known to be an effective aphrodisiac with seductive qualities. It may help address
sexual problems like premature ejaculation and impotence. When used by lovers, it's believed to help
release strong sexual energies and stimulate sexual chakra. It also works great when used during yoga.3
The essential oil contains carminative, emmenagogue, expectorant, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and
tonic agents. Other benefits of jasmine absolute oil include: 4
Rejuvenates skin. It can help in treating dry or dehydrated skin, eczema and dermatitis. However, it
should not be applied to open wounds as it can cause skin irritation or allergic reaction.
Relieves menstrual problems and labor pains. Jasmine absolute oil may help relieve pain during
menstruation, and may assist in regulating a woman's menstrual cycle. It may also be beneficial during
childbirth because it is reported to strengthen contractions and promote breast milk flow.5
Works as an antiseptic. The benzaldehyde, benzoic acid and benzyl benzoate in this essential oil have
antiviral and germicidal properties. It may prevent infections when applied to wounds.
Treats spasms. It aids in alleviating spasmodic cough, stomach cramps and spasms in other body parts.
Mind relaxation. The oil can improve your state of mind by inducing confidence, optimism and euphoria.
It helps banish fear, guilt and stress.6 The aroma of the oil may help relax and uplift the spirit. 7
Jasmine absolute oil is produced from enfleurage or solvent extraction, as steam distillation is not suitable
for the fragile jasmine flowers. Enfleurage is the old method of extracting oils from fragile flowers. Most
producers nowadays conduct solvent extraction, but do take note that since solvent extraction will involve
other chemicals, it may alter the composition of the herbal oil.
It takes 3.6 million flowers to produce just 1 pound of jasmine absolute oil, making it one of the most expensive oils
in the world.
To achieve the highest quality oil, jasmine flowers have to be harvested at night as they secrete a
powerful fragrance before sunrise. Be careful in picking the flowers and avoid "bruising" them, because
bruised flowers will produce an unpleasant fragrance. Jasmine absolute oil has a golden to brown color. 8
Through a diffuser. Just add some drops of the essential to your diffuser to provide a relaxing and
refreshing fragrance to your home.
External application. Apply a few drops of the oil on your neck or forehead to calm and clear your mind,
or to feel a surge of hope and happiness. Applying it topically can also treat skin disorders and muscle
spasms.
Inhalation. Jasmine absolute oil also aids coughs and relieves nervousness and stress when inhaled.
The essential oil is generally safe. It is considered to be non-sensitizing, non-irritant and nontoxic.
However, it should be used in moderation as large doses can interfere with your concentration due to its
relaxing property. Oral ingestion of this essential oil is not recommended. 10 If you are pregnant or
breastfeeding, I advise you to avoid using this oil.
Even though there are no known side effects for this oil, I recommend diluting jasmine absolute with a
safe and non-toxic carrier oil.
Always conduct a skin patch test first to check if you are allergic to this herbal oil. If you currently have a
terminal or chronic illness, it is best to consult first with a medical professional before applying this
essential oil.
Fragrance extraction refers to the extraction of aromatic compounds from raw materials, using methods such
as distillation, solvent extraction, expression, or enfleurage. The results of the extracts are either essential
oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product.
To a certain extent, all of these techniques tend to distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the
raw materials. Heat, chemical solvents, or exposure to oxygen in the extraction process denature the aromatic
compounds, either changing their odour character or rendering them odourless.
Chemically
similar compounds smell different
Images courtesy of Angelike Brsch-Haubold
However, there are compounds that are structurally unrelated but smell similar. Cyclooctane, camphor
and 1,8-cineol all have a camphoric odour, although cyclooctane consists of an all-carbon single ring
structure (C8H16) whereas camphor and 1,8-cineol are both bicyclic molecules with a functional group
containing oxygen. The so-called green note of unripe fruit and vegetables, which is added to cosmetics
for a scent of freshness, comes from a group of closely related C6 aldehyde compounds (cis-3-hexenal:
fresh tomatoes; cis-2-hexenal: green apples; trans-2-hexenal: green and black tea, fresh tomatoes).
Similarly, the alcohol cis-3-hexenol (freshly cut grass), the C9 aldehyde 2-trans-6-cis-nonadienal
(cucumber peel), an aldehyde attached to a ring structure (the grassy-smelling ligustral) and even some
pyrazines (2-propyl-3-methoxypyrazine: bell peppers) have this green note.
A smell is a molecule that is light enough to float in the air. Fragrance materials are generally semi-volatile
organic compounds and their molecular weight rarely exceeds 260 AMU. However, not every molecule
that floats in the air has a smell or has enough of a smell to be recognized by the human nose. For
example: Carbon Monoxide (CO).
Also, how a perfume smells is not only what it comes from, but also how a person is chemically
wired to perceive it. If everyone smelled the same way and had the same favorite smells then everyone
would also have the same favorite perfume. Depending on your genetic code, you could have different
smell receptors which cause a smell to be different to you than someone else.
that has a smell orodor. A chemical compound has a smellor
odorwhen two conditions are met: the compound needs to bevolatile, so it can be
transported to theolfactory systemin the upperpart of the nose, and it needs to be in
a suf
Fragrance Families
Fragrance families are classification systems that assign individual fragrances into olfactory
groups based on their predominant characteristics. The most common use of the classifications is
to help people find fragrances they might like, even when they may not be able to smell the
fragrance. Fragrance Families can generally be divided into the following categories:
Floral: Pretty and feminine, florals are the most popular family used in fragrances. Think of
fresh cut flowers. In this family, many perfumes are created with only one type of flower such
as rose, violet or jasmine. Floral fragrances tend to have a distinctive feminine quality, although
many fragrances containing floral notes are appearing in mens cologne. They combine
wonderfully with oriental, aquatic or fresh green families. This family can also be further divided
into five subfamilies, such as floral fruity, floral oriental, floral water, floral green, and floral
aldehyde. Some other popular floral scents we carry are plumeria, gardenia, lilac, lily of the
valley, tuberose and ylang ylang.
Oriental: Warm and sensuous, oriental fragrances are reminiscent of the exotic spices and sweet
resins of the East. Fragrant clove, cinnamon, caraway, black pepper mingle with the sweetness of
vanilla and hints of amber. Oriental fragrances also combine these spicy notes with floral accords
such as jasmine and ylang-ylang, creating scents that wrap you in the magic of far away lands.
Guerlain's Shalimar, Chanel Coco and Calvin Klein Obsession are classic orientals.
Gourmand: Scents with "edible" or "dessert" like qualities. These often contain notes like
vanilla and tonka bean, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. The
Gourmand fragrances are a relatively new category, but they have become so popular we feel
they deserve their own fragrance family. With the concept of basing fragrances on edible notes,
gourmand scents may contain notes such as spices, honey, vanilla, chocolate, amber and
cinnamon. Gourmand scents are usually "comfy" and delicious and wear nicely in the cooler
seasons. Designer fragrances considered gourmand are Thierry Mugler Angel, Serge Lutens Un
Bois Vanille, Jo Malone Nutmeg & Ginger, Lolita Lempica and Bond No. 9.
Woody: Warm and opulent, these fragrances typically consist of scents like frankincense,
vetiver, oakmoss, myrrh, sandalwood and patchouli. Variations include hints of fresh citrus or
sensuous silky musk, and can range from mossy to smoky. Some women may not like this group
as they might find them too earthy and better suited to male fragrances, but this is totally
dependent on the person. Examples of designer fragrances in the woody perfume family are
Chanel No. 19 and Lovely by SJP.
Citrus/Fruity: These fragrances capture the sparkling freshness and fruitiness of citrus oils such
as bergamot, mandarin, lemon and pink grapefruit. Fruity fragrances are pleasing to the nose,
notes of apple, berry, mango, peach, and other sweet fruits fall into this refreshing category. Fruit
notes add an exuberance and charm to a fragrance and are most often blended with florals. A lot
of citrus fruit scents tend to be top notes.
Greens: Green tea leaves, green grass, fresh herbs, vines and leafy scents give these fragrances a
clean, sporty attitude. This family blends well with florals and woods and occasionally sweet
vanillic notes. Designer fragrances considered to be in the green fragrance family are Bvlgari
Green Tea, Guerlain Acqua Allegoria Herba Fresca, Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Diptyque
Eau de Lierre, Aliage and Gucci Envy.
Aquatic: One of the newest families in perfume history, appearing in 1991. A very clean,
modern smell leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. These refreshing cooling
scents wash over the skin and give a sense of relief on hot summer days. The notes are watery,
oceanic, airy, icy and dewy. Designer fragrances considered to be in the aquatic family are
Calvin Klein Eternity Aqua and Acqua di Gio Pour Homme.
Aromatic: Aromatic notes usually consist of scents such as thyme, rosemary, cumin, lavender,
sage and other plants which possess a very intensive grass-spicy scent. They combine well with
citrusy and oriental/spicy notes. The Aromatic family are typical of fragrances for men. Designer
fragrances considered to be in the aromatic family include Calvin Klein's CK One, Rochas' Eau
de Rochas, and Lancome's O de Lancome.
Each fragrance family has a unique personality and, instinctively, you will prefer fragrances from
some and dislike ones from others. Many people, of course, like fragrances from more than one
family, and some like fragrances from all of the fragrance families. Still, knowing the fragrance
family can be very helpful simply in that it might give you some clues as to a fragrance's general
character. If you had a favorite Brand and you knew that it was a citrus, or an oriental or a floral,
that might help you decide whether or not a new fragrance in that family was something you
wanted to try. When designing your custom perfume, it is best to consider blending scented
oils from more than one family, this will give you a more balanced and creative
fragrance. Fragrance families are one of many tools we use to guide you through the perfume
creation process.
Extraction Processes
There are four common methods for extracting aromatic compounds from plant
material: Distillation, solvent extraction, expression, and enfleurage. All four methods
intend the final product to be used in perfumery or scenting, however; none of these
extraction methods produces an exact replica of the scent of a fresh plant. The reason
for this inability to exactly replicate the scent of a fresh plant is due to the fact that these
extraction methods denature the aromatic compounds by either exposure to heat,
oxygen, or chemical solvents.
Steam Distillation
Steam Distillation is a common method for extracting aromatic compounds from
lavender, rosemary, eucalyptus, and other fresh flowers, stems, leaves, roots, barks,
and seeds. Steam distillation involves passing steam through fresh plant material for
over an hour, so the plant material will reach temperatures over 212 degrees and some
of the aromatic compounds are denatured or altered by the exposure to high heat. The
aromatic volatile oils from the plant material are trapped with the steam and then
cooled. During condensation, the two separate and appear as a bottom layer of water
and a top layer of oils. Very simply, the bottom layer is most often considered a waste
product but may be used as a hydrosol (such as lavender water or rose water) and the
top layer is bottled as essential oil.
Solvent Extraction
When a specific plant is very sensitive to heat and cannot be distilled (such as jasmine
or tuberose), the scent is extracted by a chemical solvent. Either hexane or diethyl ether
is used to remove the aromatic lipids and waxes (and other hydrophobic material) from
the plant matter. Then, a vacuum is used to remove the chemical solvents (hexane or
diethyl ether), which are recycled for re-use. The aromatic plant waxes and lipids remain
as a solid waxy concrete.
Concretes are extremely fragrant but they are solid at room temperature and difficult to
use. When ethyl alcohol, a different chemical solvent, is used to further extract
exclusively the low-molecular weight fragrance material from the concrete, the result is
an absolute. Absolutes are also extremely fragrant but they are less viscous (more
liquid) at room temperature and more expensive than concretes.
Expression
Expression can only be done when the plant material has a naturally high content of oil.
Therefore, usually only citrus peels are expressed or mechanically pressed. Citrus peels
are cold pressed and the oil squeezed from the peel is collected. Expressed essential
oils are highly susceptible to oxidation and should be refrigerated and kept out of direct
light.
Enfleurage
Enfleurage extraction is fairly expensive and somewhat uncommon; it is rather primitive
and labor-intensive. During the enfleurage process, a layer of fat (animal fat or solid
plant oil, such as coconut oil) is spread on a plate of glass. Delicate petals or flowers
are placed on top of the layer of fat; they are placed as close together as possible,
without touching one another. Then, another plate of glass is placed on top of the flower
material and the process is repeated. The glass-fat-flower sandwich may have up to ten
layers and must set at room temperature for three days. At the end of three days, the
sandwich is carefully dismantled and the used flowers are removed. Fresh flower are
then placed where the previous flowers had been and the sandwich is re-assembled. In
this manner, the fats are impregnated with the concentrated scent of the flowers.
Finally, after about a month and up to twelve changes of flower layers, the fat is scraped
from the glass plates to yield waxy enfleurage pomade. An example of enfleurage
pomade is the solid coconut oil that has been impregnated with the scent of Tahitian
Monoi flowers.