1967-1968 Mustang Factory Air

Installation Manual
1967-1968 Mustang Factory Air

DOCUMENT #1-2026FA
2012 ClassicAutoAir / vs2.12
Congratulations...
You have just purchased the highest quality, best performing
A/C system ever designed for your Classic Vehicle.
To obtain the high level of performance and dependability our systems are known for, please pay close attention to the
following instructions. Our installation steps and procedures are derived from a long history of research and
development and the combined experience achieved thru thousands of successful installations (and feedback from
customers like you). Please remember that our #1 goal is that youll have a successful installation and a system that
performs at a very high level for many years to come.
Before starting, read the instructions carefully, from beginning to end, and follow the proper sequence. On the next
page youll find a safety and general checklist that you should read before starting your installation.
Again, thank you from our entire staff.
www.classicautoair.com 866.435.7801
Check List, Pre-Installation:
Before beginning the installation check the shipping box for the correct components. YOUR BOXED UNIT INCLUDES A LIST OF
MAJOR COMPONENTS AND A LIST OF BAGGED PARTS. We have a 5 stage check process to make sure you have everything youll
need.
If your vehicle has been or is being modified, some procedures will need to be adjusted to fit your particular application.
A basic cleaning of the engine compartment and interior before beginning will make things go more smoothly.
Check condition of engine mounts. Excessive engine movement can damage hoses to A/C and/or heater.
Before starting, check vehicle interior electrical functions (interior lights, radio, horn, etc). Make a note of anything that does not work as
its supposed to. During the installation you might find the opportunity to repair or upgrade non-working or out of date components.
When youre ready to start the installation, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.
Drain the radiator. Retain the coolant and reuse, or dispose of properly.
SAFETY FIRST: Wear eye protection while drilling/cutting, deburr sharp edges, and never get in a hurry or force a part.
Tools: Your installation only requires the basic tools everyone has in their garage, nothing exotic or specific to A/C or Heat equipment.
Procedures, During Installation:

Fittings: Use one or two drops of mineral oil (supplied with your kit) on ALL rubber o-rings, threads and rear of bump for o-ring where
female nut rides. Do not use thread tape or sealants.
Measure twice (or more), cut once
Should you have any technical questions, or feel you have defective components (or missing items), call us immediately,
we will be glad to assist you. Our toll-free number is listed on every page, were here to help!
YOU CAN NOW BEGIN THE INSTALLATION...
A Basic Overview of Automotive A/C....
OUTSIDE AIR
1 Evaporator with Blower Fan In order to remove the heat from the air in the vehicle, the
A/C evaporator allows the refrigerant to absorb the heat from the air passing over it. The blower fan
moves cool air out into the car interior.
2 Compressor The compressor pumps and circulates the refrigerant through the system. Suction
Valve Discharge
Valve
3 Condenser The condenser is a heat exchanger mounted at the front of the vehicle. Heat drawn
out of the interior of the car is expelled here.
Receiver
4 Receiver/Drier The drier not only dries refrigerant, it also filters the refrigerant and stores it Drier Condenser
Compressor
under certain operating conditions.
5 High Pressure Switch A pressure switch is used to shut down the system if high or low
pressure is detected, basically it acts as a safety switch.
Firewall
Expansion Valve
AIR FROM INSIDE VEHICLE
COO
LED
AIR
SUC LIQ
UID GRO
TIO HO UND
NH POW
OS SE ER
3 E
2 Evaporator Unit
E
GE HOS COLD AIR INTO VEHICLE
HAR
DISC
5 The air conditioning system in your car is comprised of a compressor, condenser,
expansion valve, receiver/drier, and evaporator. Refrigerant (also known as Freon) is
4 compressed in the compressor and turns into a gas. In the condenser, this gas is cooled to
a liquid state and travels to the expansion valve. As the liquid refrigerant goes through the
expansion valve it rapidly cools in the evaporator. A fan blows over the evaporator and cools
the air that blows out your vents. The receiver-drier separates gas and liquid.
www.classicautoair.com 866.435.7801 OVERVIEW

Control & Operating Instructions
Your new Perfect Fit-Elite system offers complete comfort capabilities in
virtually every driving condition. This includes temperature control in all of the MODE Compressor
Lever Postion Air Distribution State
modes. This system also provides the ability to blend the air between Face,
TOP
Heat, and Defrost modes simultaneously. To illustrate the various ways you can
BLEND
100% ON
adjust the airflow direction and temperature - weve provided these handy Face
illustrations and chart to show exactly how you can adjust your Perfect

Fit-Elite for maximum comfort...
BLEND
A B
A B

TEMP LEVER
There are 11
A MAX COOL OFF
BLEND
TEMP LEVER
MODE LEVER levels of
MODE LEVER
MAX COOL OFF
adjustment within FRESH C
the range of the
C FAN SWITCH

FRESH FACE/FLOOR lever. OFF HI
FAN SWITCH
BLEND
OFF
HEAT
B HEAT
WARM
The COLD/HOT DEF

DEF WARM HI
positions works
BLEND
like any traditional
adjustment lever.
BLEND
Floor
The FAN switch 100%
works like the OEM
switch, the far left
HEAT Heat (100%)
position is OFF (all
1967 power to the 1968
ON
BTM
system is OFF in DEF Defrost (100%)
this position)
NOTE: When the TEMP lever is in the "FULL COLD" position (TOP), the compressor is ON, no matter what position the MODE lever is in (think of it as a compressor-override function)
www.classicautoair.com 866.435.7801 PAGE 1

Remove Glovebox, Console (if
equipped) Radio and Bezel, and set
INTERIOR
them aside for reinstall later
COMPARTMENT (see figure 1).
The removal of the OEM evaporator can be accomplished by

disconnecting the two control cables. One is attached to the
Heat/Defrost door (see figure 2). One is attached to the
Temperature door, and one is attached to the Vent/Heat door
(see figure 3). Disconnect the electrical harness from the
assembly. Also remove attachment screw located in front of
the air inlet (see figure 4).
FIGURE 1
When retaining parts its a

good idea to store parts in a
zip lock bag, labeled with
GOOD ID EA info where the parts came
from and what size/type of
tool is needed to reinstall. Cleaning
the parts before you need to reinstall
them is a good idea too.
FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4

Locate blower motor on the firewall (Passenger Side) in the engine
compartment. Remove all 4 nuts around blower. Also disconnect the electrical
connector from the blower motor (see figure 5A). Cut wires at grommet in
A
firewall.
DRAIN COOLANT FROM RADIATOR and store safely to reuse or recycle B

accordingly. Cut heater hose approximately 1 from firewall (see figure 5B). Also, 1"
to prevent forgetting to refill the coolant when the installation is completed, do
LOW
not put the cap back into place - instead put the cap to the side and cover
UP
PE
ER
radiator hole with a clean rag or something similar. HE
R
HE
AT
AT
ER
ER
Located on the drivers side lower dash is a fresh air vent assembly. Remove this HO
HO
SE
SE
unit and set aside (it will not be reinstalled, see figure 6, and NOTE below).
FIGURE 5
OEM Evaporator Unit

(Not reinstalled)
FIGURE 6
Over time the nuts that hold the OEM fresh air vent assembly
may have become rusty or fused to the studs. Use a good
TECH TIPS
quality penetrating spray to help the process of removing the
nuts and dont over-stress the studs.

THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT A
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
Pressure Switch
(engine compartment)
Ground
Ground
Ground
ECU
Thermostat
Cable Integrators
OEM Power
Supply
Wiring Harness -
Power Supply
Fan Blower Switch
Plug Connection
Relay
Two - Cable Clips

Integrator Bracket Blower Switch Knob
Note: you will use

two of these screws
on a 1967 installation
and all four screws
One #8 - 20 x 3/8" Bolt and Lock Nut on the 1968 Mustang
Four #6 - 20x3/8" Screws installation.
NOTE: Illustrations NOT shown actual size Blower Switch and Bracket
Remove The A/C Control Head From The Dash.
1) There are four OEM screws that hold your control head to the dash, two on the
Template
lower side and two on the upper. Remove and retain these screws. Remove the 1968
Mustang
control head assembly. OEM
OEM
2) Remove the OEM blower switch knob. Retain the screw, you will use it again Drill
shortly. Remove the control cables and the original blower switch and set aside Drill
ALIGN
(these will not be reused).
ALIGN
3) Cut off and discard the small retaining clip on the lever arm (see inset, figure 7,
1968 control head only).
1967 CONTROL HEAD: Attach the new blower switch with bracket to the top part
of the back of the face plate (see figure 7), utilizing the two OEM screws.
1968 CONTROL HEAD: Remove the rotary vacuum switch and set aside (retaining
the OEM screws). Utilizing the supplied template (see figure 8) you will need to drill
two holes for mounting the blower switch bracket. Slip the template in behind the
lever and align the circles marked OEM to the original holes on the control body
that previously held the vacuum switch. Secure the template to the control body (with
tape) and drill thru the holes marked drill with a 9/64 drill bit. Attach the blower
BIT
FIGURE 8
switch and bracket with the two supplied #6 - 20x3/8" screws. .
ILL
DR
4
9/6
OEM Screws for 1967
Two #6 - 20x3/8"
screws for 1968 Template
1968
Mustang
OEM
OEM
Drill
Drill
FIGURE 7
REMOVE CLIP

Attaching our exclusive cables to the control head is accomplished in
three easy steps: Step 1) First attach the integrator bracket to the control head
body (see figure 9) by placing the bracket into position and placing the ear
thru the hole in the OEM cable guide hole and securing with one #8 - 20 x 3/8
bolt and locknut (see figure 9).
#8 - 20 x 3/8" Bolt
and Lock Nut
FIGURE 9
FIGURE 10

Step 2) Slide the supplied cable clamps over the end of both of the cables (see figure
10) and then route the wire ends of the new cables over the appropriate lever ends
(one is a dog-leg end and the other is a loop, as shown in figure 11). Secure the
cables to the mounting points (one to the new bracket and one to the control head)
using the #8 - 20x3/8" screws.
OEM Screws
L
TRO
ON
PC
TEM
MOD
E CON
TR OL
FIGURE 11

Plug the harness blower switch connection into the back of the control
head and insert the entire harness and switch component back into the
dash. Position the entire control head back flush with the lower dash and
secure with the OEM retainers and nuts you removed earlier (see figure 13).
FIGURE 13

THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT B
Two 1/4 - #20 x 5/8" Bolts
Evaporator Support Bracket
Four #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws

Two Fresh Air Inlet Block Offs
Four #10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips Screws

One Male Spade Connector
Defrost/Heat Duct Assembly One J-Clip One 1/2" Washer
Illustrations NOT shown actual size

Locate the original wiring harness that supplied power to the original heater
motor (these wires were previously cut on the engine side of the firewall).
Reaching thru the glove box opening pull these wires out of their grommet.
Measure 4 off of the main harness and cut both wires (see figure 14). On the
OEM power supply wire attach a 1/4 insulated male spade connector. Within 4"
the OEM fuse box upgrade the factory HEATER fuse with a 20 amp fuse (VERY
IMPORTANT).
Locate the bottom left mounting hole in the firewall that attached the original
heater motor. From inside of the vehicle drill a 5/8" dia. hole for the drain tube.
TEMPLATE NOTIFICATION! A handy drilling template is included in this
manual (example shown in figure 15).
CAUTION: On the engine side of the firewall there is a brake line. Be FIGURE 14
careful not drill through the brake line. It may be necessary to carefully
push this line out of the way, securing it a bit lower is usually all that is
necessary (see figure 16). THIS IS
FROM THE
INSIDE
All preliminary OF THE
CAR! HEATER MOTOR
modifications to the HOLE
vehicle are complete.
YOU CAN DRILL A 1 3/8"

SMALL PILOT
HOLE IN THIS LINE
KE 5/8"
TECH TIPS LOCATION FIRST
BRA
WITH A SMALLER !
ION
DRILL BIT (LIKE A 9/32"), THEN UT
PROCEED WITH THE 5/8" BIT CA 5/8" HOLE
ONCE YOU KNOW YOU HAVE FIGURE 16 FIGURE 15
CLEAR SPACE.
You can now begin installing your Classic Air Perfect Fit Elite System.

Locate the Fresh Air inlet block off. Install over hole in inlet cowl as shown on
the passenger side (see figure 17A). Attach with three #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek
Screws. Locate the mounting tab location as shown and attach the
1/4" 20 J-clip supplied (see figure 17B).
Install a Fresh Air inlet block off over the vent opening at the drivers-side in the
same way, using the four OEM nuts.
A
Remove evaporator unit from box and place on a flat work surface.
Locate defrost / heat duct assembly and attach to the evaporator using two
#10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips screws (see figure 18). NOTE: Be sure that the s-clips
are pushed over rear flange on evaporator.
B
FIGURE 17
Take a minute to familiarize yourself with the evaporator unit:
Actuator Motor
Blower Motor
Floor/Face Bracket
Vent Door
Evaporator
Support Bracket Thermostat
Holes
FIGURE 18
Blower Motor Plug

Installing the complete evaporator unit under the dash will go much easier with
the help of a friend. One person can take the unit within the car and roll up
and under the dash while the other person can be ready at the firewall area with DASH
FIREWALL
one of the 1/4" - #20 x 5/8" bolts to secure the unit in place (see figure 19).
Now the unit will be easy to level and secure. Leveling the unit is very important
to insure proper drainage of condensation.
On back side of the evaporator is a mounting bracket with a 1/4"-20 J-clip. This
bracket will go flush with the inside firewall and you will secure the evaporator
by inserting one 1/4" - #20 x 5/8" bolt with a 1/4 washer (from the engine side)
using the bottom right hole (that originally attached the original heater assembly,
see figure 20).
FIGURE 19
LEVEL
Be sure to align the evaporator unit level with the bottom of instrument
FIGURE 20
panel (assuming the vehicle is sitting level) as shown above, but with a small
degree of tilt toward the back to allow proper drain of condensation. 1/4 - #20 x 5/8" bolts and
TECH TIPS a 1/4 washer

The second 1/4 - #20 x 5/8" bolt attaches the blower motor mounting
bracket in the same location as the original heater mounting in front of the Air
Inlet. The blower support bracket will have an additional hole behind the 1/4 -
#20 x 5/8" Bolts. Install a #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek screw through this hole and into
the cowling (see figure 21).
Locate in bag kit B the UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET and attach to

evaporator unit using two #10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips screws. Attach other end to
the cowling with a #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screw (see figure 22). IMPORTANT
NOTE: On the side of the main unit you will see several holes for
mounting holes... ONLY USE THE ONES ON THE FAR LEFT FOR THIS FIGURE 21
BRACKET! Do not tap into the other holes for any reason (see figure 23).
Also, use a screwdriver and hand-power and do not over-tighten so you don't
strip the holes.
#10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screw
YES
FIGURE 23 NO!
NO! FIGURE 22
#10 x 5/8"
Screws

THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT C
Clear Plastic Drain Tube
Electronic Water Control Valve
Six Worm Gear Clamps
Firewall Block Off Refrigerant Tape
Six #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws

Water valve hose connects to this connection
In Bag Kit C youll find the firewall block off. Install this over the hose connections
coming thru the firewall within the engine compartment. Attach with six #10 - 16 x 3/4"
Tek screws (Figure 23). Seal around the tubes with the included refrigerant tape. This
will keep unwanted moisture and debris from entering thru the firewall... so seal
carefully and thoroughly.
IMPORTANT NOTICE Classic Auto Air has done extensive testing on the
correct method to install the water valve in order to get a repeatable and progressive
temperature control. The water valve must be installed per these instructions!....
FIGURE 23
The lower connection on the tubes coming thru the block off assembly is going to be
routed to the water outlet on the intake manifold. Attach your hose with cable clamps
This inlet is on both ends and route where it will not interfere with linkage or come in contact with
connected exhaust manifolds or headers.
to the intake
manifold
The upper port coming thru the firewall will be routed to and thru your new your
electronic water valve (the water valve is marked for easy installation). First Attach
a 6 piece of 5/8 dia. heater hose with the supplied worm gear clamp. Attach
to the inlet side of the water valve using another supplied hose clamp.
Attach a heater hose from the outlet side of the electronic water valve
and route to the connection on the water pump.
Insert a 6" piece of the clear, 1/2" drain tube we included

E
COR
through the hole previously drilled and attach over the drain
AT
ER
HE nipple (see figure 24). Seal around tube with

MP
PU
T
refrigerant tape.
ER
WA
FIGURE 24
1/2" Clear Drain Tube
Refrigerant Tape

THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT D
box
shipped in its own
The ECU is
Five #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws
Yellow
Orange
Blue
Wire Harness System


Weve included enough wire length to allow you to mount the ECU in a variety
of places. It is very important that you mount this in a place where it will stay dry
and that vibration is at a minimum. Also make sure that where ever you mount it
does not interfere with any moving controls or cables. We recommend
mounting it just above the right hand side of the main unit using the included
tek-screws. IMPORTANT! DONT MOUNT THE ECU PERMANENTLY JUST
YET. THAT CAN BE DONE AFTER YOU CALIBRATE THE UNIT (SEE
PAGE 19).
In Bag Kit D you will find three wiring harnesses with connections at each end.
Plug the harness with YELLOW band into the YELLOW ECU port and the
FIGURE 25
other end into the servo motor on the main unit (motor is marked with YELLOW
INDICATOR). Repeat this process for the other two harnesses, following the
color coding indicated on cables and ports. Attach cable in the engine
compartment to the electronic water valve (see figure 25).
NOTE: The GREEN harness connection will be made from the harness you
previously installed, just plug the loose connection in the CONTROL
port on the ECU.
FIREWALL
VALVE
WATER
CONT
ST
DEFRO
RO
LOOR
FACE/F
L
POWER

Wiring Diagram/Overview
ss
e
arn
To 12V Power Supply
eH
Orang
Re Electronic Water Valve
/W
d
hite
Wi Compressor
re
s
Wire Wh
ess e
Harn Blu
ite
Blower Switch n
ee Ground Pressure Switch
Wire
G
r
ECU
Yello w H a
Ground
Cable Integrators ness

Blue Har
r ne
ire
Red Wire
ss
ire
Evaporator W
eW
e
Blu
Servo for Face/Floor Ducts
Blu
Thermostat Relay
Servo for Defrost Ducts

Bl
ue
W ire
Ground
REMINDER: BE SURE THAT THE WIRING HARNESS DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE OPERATION OF ANY CONTROLS.
PAGE
19
Temporarily reconnect the car battery at this time. You will need a full 12 volts to complete the calibration.
1967-68 Mustang EZ CALIBRATION... Follow these directions carefully and your unit will be calibrated in just a few minutes.
Before we boxed and shipped your unit, we tested and calibrated it to factory specifications to make sure it is capable of operating at maximum efficiency. However,
the unit must still be calibrated to your specific vehicle and controls. This is an easy process that can be done in a few steps. If for any reason your unit does not
calibrate properly the first time, just turn off the unit and rerun the setup process. NOTE: When you move a knob to a new position, do it in ONE continuous motion.
#1 #2 DASH COLD OFF #3 DASH COLD OFF #4 DASH COLD OFF
VALVE
ER
WAT
RO
ST DEF DEF DEF
DEF
O
LED N
R
OO
/FL
OL CE
R FA
NT
CO R
WE
PO
FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH
Key
tion
ibra
Cal
Move FAN control to medium Move MODE control to

in one motion... DASH in one motion...
Position your controls O
LED N D OFF D OFF
Plug CALIBRATION KEY into ECU LE LE
like this example. 1 Second 1 Second
Later... Later...
#5 #6 After 1 second the #7 #8

DASH COLD OFF LED turns back ON DASH COLD OFF
E
VALV
ER
WAT
DEF DEF ST
O O RO
LED N LED N
DEF
OR
LO
L CE/F
O FA
N TR
CO R
WE
PO
FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH
You may be able to tion

Key
Move TEMP control to

ibra
Move the FAN knob to OFF

Cal
hear the internal door(s) move

COOL in one motion... back and forth... (powers off unit)
LE
D OFF LE
D OFF REMOVE KEY
1 Second
Approx. 30 AND STORE IN
Seconds SAFE PLACE
Later... Later...
Thats it. Your unit is now fully calibrated. Disconnect the battery and move on to the next phase....
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KITS E, F, and G
Bag E Bag F Bag G
Driver & Passenger Side Vent Adaptors

Left and Right Side Defrost Vents PN#03-1894 Center Vent Adaptor
PN#0019-64 0019-63 PN#0019-69
Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D.
Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D.

Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D. Face Duct Assembly
PN# 2-1025-1
Four Zip-Ties
Four Zip-Ties Four Zip-Ties

Bag Kit E. The following steps are for the left and right Defrost
Diffusers... Locate and route the duct hoses from the defrost/heat duct
assembly upward toward the top of the dash. Using the OEM screws from the
OEM defrost vents, install the new defrost vents we provided and attach the flex
hose to them using zip-ties. The other end of the duct hose is installed over the
defrost/heat duct assembly outlets on the main unit (see figure 27).
The face duct assembly comes with s-clips pre-installed which allow you to
install it onto the evaporator unit quickly and securely (see figure 28).
FIGURE 27
TOP OF DASH
Defrost Vents
and Hoses
Duct Hose
(Secured with zip-tie)
FIGURE 28

Bag Kit F: Attach the supplied vent adaptors to the driver and passenger lower
side vents, and then attach and route the hoses as shown below to your OEM
vents. Use the supplied zip-ties to secure the hoses.
Take your time and route the hoses so they dont become kinked or torn.
To defrost
vents
During installation of the hoses be aware of the eventual movement

of the wiper arm components. Also, the smoother the route of the
flex hoses the better the airflow.
TECH TIPS

Bag Kit G: The final step in the flex hose routing is for the center vent. Weve included a center vent adaptor which you can attach to
your OEM vent, then secure the flex hoses with zip-ties and route as shown below.
You can reinstall the glove box at this time. If your
vehicle was equipped with a center console (which
you removed earlier), you may need to modify it (see
figure 31) before reinstallation. Test fit your particular
console before cutting.
This completes the interior portion of the PERFECT

FIT-ELITE installation process. This is a good time to
make a final check that all the controls still move
freely and that nothing is loose or hanging down.
The interior of your car should look pretty much the same as before you started
(or better). Plus you probably got to know the underside of your dash a lot
better and might even have repaired or upgraded components that needed
attention.
Good Job... Let's move on to the major components within the engine
compartment....
3"
1 1/4"
REMOVE
FIGURE 31

THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE
ENGINE COMPARTMENT INSTALLATION
Youll find all of these parts within the main box
Liquid Tube
B
Condenser Brackets
Drier Drier Bracket
Condenser
Splice and
Pressure Switch Bullet Connector
/16" Liquid Hose Four Zip-Ties

Pressure Switch Harness #6 5
e
rge Hos
ischa
Eight #10 - 20x5/8" Screws

ose
2" D
nH
3/3
ti o
81
# S
uc
/2"
#10 1
Bag of O-rings and Mineral Oil Tube Three Refrigerant Hoses Two #8 - 20 x 5/8" Bolts and Lock Nuts

ENGINE COMPARTMENT
INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE STEP ONE: IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO
COMPARTMENT ALREADY, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
STEP TWO: During the next steps youll be installing the condenser, drier, and
routing the refrigerant hoses along with the hi/low safety switch. Since much of
this is installed in the OEM location for the condenser, youll need to remove the
center grill section, horn(s), and latch support assembly
(see figure 32). Be sure to retain all the mounting screws
youll reinstall these pieces in the exact reverse order
with the OEM screws.
FIGURE 32

STEP THREE: DRIER AND CONDENSER PREPARATION. You can perform
most of the following steps on a clean flat surface like a workbench. Lay the
condenser down so that both hose connections are on the right side (the larger
connection will be on top). The drier is conveniently mounted on the right hand
You can easily find the
side of the condenser. First insert the drier into the drier mounting bracket (its correct position for mounting
basically a sleeve for the drier). Attach the drier liquid tube to the drier and also the drier to the condenser by
TECH TIPS using the drier liquid tube as
to the connection on the condenser (tighten connections at a gauge.
either end using supplied o-rings on both ends and a few
drops of mineral oil to each o-ring). With these two Brackets angles outward
components combined it will easy to find the correct place to A

attach the drier bracket to the condenser with the included Four #10-5/8" screws
#8-20 x 5/8 bolts and lock nuts (attach drier and bracket 4th, 5th Holes 8th, 9th Holes
from the back of the condenser).
STEP FOUR: Screw the high-pressure switch into the port at

the lower end of the drier liquid tube. Go ahead and plug the
pressure switch harness into the switch at this time (black
electrical boot with two long white wires).
STEP FIVE: Install the upper condenser bracket (A) using

four #10 - 20 x 5/8 screws in the 4th, 5th, 8th and 9th holes
on the condenser from the left, be sure the bend on the
bracket is facing towards you. Next, attach the lower bracket
(B) using four #10-20 x 5/8 screws in the 5th, 6th, 9th and
10th hole from the left hand side. This bracket has a large
hole that corresponds to the OEM latch support previously
removed from the vehicle.
5th, 6th Holes 9th, 10th Holes
Reminder...
Use two Four #10-5/8" screws
wrenches to B
TECH TIPS tighten o-ring
fittings
STEP SIX: Youll route the new discharge hose to the compressor thru the
previously drilled hole in the radiator support, as well as the liquid hose and the
wiring harness plug for the high/low safety switch (see figure 33).
STEP SEVEN: Place the condenser/drier unit into place, locating it so that the
holes in the condenser brackets align with the holes in the core support used to
attach the hood latch (it will rest on the lower radiator core brace, see figure 33).
STEP EIGHT: Time to install the compressor kit. Included in your box is a
premium compressor kit with all the parts youll need to install the compressor.
This kit includes instructions specifically written for your engine. Once youve
installed the complete compressor kit, continue on to connecting the hoses. FIGURE
FIGURE 33 38
STEP NINE: CONNECTING THE HOSES:

1) Attach the #8 Discharge Hose (13/32") to the upper connection of the
condenser and route thru the hole previously drilled in the core support and route
to the compressor. Tighten fittings using o-rings and mineral oil provided.
2) Attach the #6 liquid hose (5/16") to the drier and route thru the remaining hole
previously drilled into the core support and along the underside of the fender
struts, around the engine, and to the connection at the firewall on the evaporator
unit (see figure 40). Using supplied zip-ties youll attach this hose, the suction
hose and the lead from the high pressure switch to the strut braces, securing all
three at once. Tighten fittings using o-rings and mineral oil supplied in kit.
3) Attach the #10 suction hose (1/2) to the compressor and route as mentioned
above. Tighten fittings using o-rings and mineral oil supplied in the kit.

STEP TEN: Connect the pressure switch by first connecting one wire to the
connection on the compressor, and the other wire will be routed along with the
liquid hose along the underside of the fender supports and connected to the blue
lead you put thru the firewall during the interior installation (for attachment route,
see figure 34). Weve included a bullet and slice connector to make these
connections, use a crimp tool to secure these properly.
FINAL STEPS: You can now complete this portion of the installation by
ts
reinstalling the grill, horns, and latch support in reverse order. NOTE: The OEM
ru
St
er
screws for the hood latch support will hold your new condenser in place, so be
nd
Fe
sure to fully tighten these during this step. Take a look around at your installation
and check all fittings and bolts for tightness, check the heater hose clamps for FIGURE 34
tightness, and make sure nothing is routed in a way to obstruct any moving
parts. You can refill the radiator and reconnect the battery at this time.
WAY TO GO! Youve just completed the installation of your new A/C system.
The very final step is to fully charge and test your new system.
On the next page youll find specifications for proper final preparation
for your A/C technician.

PREP
PAGE
New A/C System Preparation... A MUST READ!

Please read thru these procedures before completing this new A/C system charging operation. Centerline of the Oil Plug
A licensed A/C technician should be utilized for these procedures to insure

that your new system will perform at its peak, and that your compressor will
90 90
not be damaged.
1) Your radiator/cooling system is an integral part of your new system. Please insure that
you have a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. The heater coil MUST be purged
(cycle heater control valve) to make sure no water, without antifreeze, is in the heater coil
before you charge the A/C system.
2) Evacuate the system for 45 minutes (minimum).
3) Your new compressor MUST be hand-turned 15-20 revolutions before
and after charging with liquid. Failure to do this may cause the reed CAUTION! When mounting your compressor
valves to become damaged (this damage is NOT covered by your warranty). and/or adjusting the belt, use caution not to tilt
4) Your new system requires 134a refrigerant. It will require 1.5 lbs (or 24 oz). the compressor up to or more than 90 off the
5) Your new compressor comes charged with oil - NO additional oil is needed. centerline of the oil fill plug. This can cause
6) Insure that the new belt is tight. compressor failure.
DO NOT CHARGE SYSTEM WITH LIQUID WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!
!
7)
Do NOT tilt, shake or
RECOMMENDED TEST CONDITIONS: (After system has been fully charged and tested for basic operation) turn refrigerant can
Determine the temperature outside of the car upside-down OR use a
Connect gauges or service equipment to high/low charging ports charging station to
Place blower fan switch on medium
install refrigerant while
the engine is running. Doing
Close all doors and windows on vehicle
so will direct liquid refrigerant into the
Place shop fan directly in front of condenser compressor piston chamber, causing damage
Run engine idle up to approx. 1500 rpm to reed valves and/or pistons and/or other components,
as well as potentially seizing the compressor. Allow a
ACCEPTABLE OPERATING PRESSURE RANGES: minimum of 30 minutes for liquid to "boil off. You must
hand turn the compressor hub (not the pulley) a
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURES (150-250 PSI)
minimum of 15 complete revolutions prior to starting
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURES (15-25 PSI in a steady state) the engine with the clutch engaged.
Readings above are based on an ambient temperature of 90 with an adequate airow on condenser
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TEST CONDITIONS USED TO DETERMINE SYSTEM OPERATION have a more pronounced affect on the units cooling ability. Installing the valve improperly
(THESE TEST CONDITIONS WILL SIMULATE THE AFFECT OF (such as having the flow reversed) will also allow water to flow through, thus inhibiting
cooling. Check for heat transfer by disconnecting hoses from the system completely. By
DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND GIVE THE TECHNICIAN THE THREE running down the road with the hoses looped backed through the motor, you eliminate the
CRITICAL READINGS THAT THEY WILL NEED TO DIAGNOSE ANY possibility of heat transfer to the unit.
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS). C. Evaporator freezing - Freezing can occur both externally and internally on an evaporator
B. CONNECT GAUGES OR SERVICE EQUIPMENT TO HIGH/LOW core. External freeze up occurs when the coil cannot effectively displace the condensation
CHARGING PORTS. on the outside fins and the water forms ice (the evaporator core resembles a block of solid
C. PLACE BLOWER FAN SWITCH ON MEDIUM. ice), it restricts the flow of air that can pass through it, which gives the illusion of the air not
functioning. The common cause of external freezing is the setting of the thermostat and the
D. CLOSE ALL DOORS AND WINDOWS ON VEHICLE. presence of high humidity in the passenger compartment. All door and window seals should
E. PLACE SHOP FAN IN FRONT OF CONDENSER. be checked in the event of constant freeze-up. A thermostat is provided with all units to
F. RUN ENGINE IDLE UP TO 1500 RPM. control the cycling of the compressor.
D. Internal freeze up occurs when there is too much moisture inside the system. The
symptoms of internal freeze up often surface after extended highway driving. The volume of
ACCEPTABLE OPERATING PRESSURE RANGES (R134A TYPE) air stays constant, but the temperature of the air gradually rises. When this freezing occurs
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURES ( 160-250 PSI ) *Note- general rule of thumb is the low side pressure will drop, eventually going into a vacuum. At this point, the system
should be checked by a professional who will evacuate the system and the drier will have
two times the ambient (daytime) temperature, plus 15-20%. to be changed.
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURES ( 06-22 PSI in a steady state). E. Inadequate airflow to condenser - The condenser works best in front of the radiator with
a large supply of fresh air. Abnormally high pressures will result from improper airflow.
CHARGE AS FOLLOWS: R134A = 24 OZ. Check the airflow requirements by placing a large capacity fan in front of the condenser
and running cool water over the surface. If the pressures drop significantly, this will indicate
NO ADDITIONAL OIL IS NECESSARY IN OUR NEW COMPRESSORS. the need for better airflow.
F. Incorrect or inadequate condenser capacity - Incorrect condenser capacity will cause
TYPICAL PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED IN CHARGING SYSTEMS abnormally high head pressures. A quick test that can be performed is to run cool water
over the condenser while the system is operating, if the pressures decrease significantly, it
is likely a airflow or capacity problem.
NOISY COMPRESSOR. A noisy compressor is generally caused by charging a compressor with
liquid or overcharging G. Expansion valve failure - An expansion valve failure is generally caused by dirt or debris
A. If the system is overcharged both gauges will read abnormally high readings. This is entering the system during assembly. If an expansion valve fails it will be indicated by
causing a feedback pressure on the compressor causing it to rattle or shake from the abnormal gauge readings. A valve that is blocked will be indicated by high side that is
increased cylinder head pressures. System must be evacuated and re-charged to exact unusually high, while the low side will be unusually low or may even go into a vacuum. A
weight specifications. valve that is stuck open will be indicated by both the high and low pressures rising to
unusually high readings, seeming to move toward equal readings on the gauges.
B. Heater control valve installation - Installing the heater control valve in the incorrect hose.
Usually when this occurs the system will cool at idle then start to warm up when raising the H. Restrictions in system - A restriction in the cooling system will cause abnormal readings
RPMs of the motor. THE HEATER CONTROL IS A DIRECTIONAL VALVE; MAKE SURE THE on the gauges. A high-side restriction ( between the compressor and the drier inlet ) will be
WATER FLOW IS WITH THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW. As the engine heats up that water indicated by the discharge gauges reading excessively high. These simple tests can be
transfers the heat to the coil, thus overpowering the a/c coil. A leaking or faulty valve will performed by a local shop and can help determine the extent of the systems problem.
Trouble Shooting Your Classic Auto Air A/C System
PROBLEM: system is not cooling properly If the paper is held in place you are at least getting some air flow. If the high side
ISSUE: cold at idle, warmer when raising engine RPMs decreases during test 2 & 3 then your condenser is not getting enough air which is
causing your system to not cool properly. To correct this issue you will need a more
powerful mechanical fan.
Make sure the Water Valve is positioned correctly Step 3: Confirm correct Refrigerant charge in System
The water valve is a directional valve and should be installed with the arrow pointing towards the All of our systems should be charged with 24oz or 1.8lbs of R134 Refrigerant only. If
water pump, it should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the heater core to the overcharged you will need to evacuate the system and recharge with the correct
water pump. If the water valve is connected to the incorrect hose it allows water to circulate amount.*
through the system via the heater core over powering the cooling effect of the A/C coil, (normally
the air conditioning is functioning properly).
Step 1: Check placement of the water valve, correct if needed. (In some cases changing the What measurements mean:
location of the water valve may not fix the above problem.) Continue to next step. Low Temp and High Pressure seem to be equal...
Step 2 If changing the location of the water valve does not rectify the issue, then possibly the You have a malfunctioning expansion valve that is stuck open.
water valve is permanently damaged and may need to be replaced. To check the integrity of the
water valve completely remove the water hoses for the heater core and loop together. (This will
remove the heater system completely from the possibilities) If the system now cools, replace the High Side is extremely high and Low Side is extremely low (possibly into vacuum)...
water valve There is a blockage in the system. Remove hoses and blow compressed air through in both
directions. If pressures dont change its possible that your expansion valve is stuck
closed and would have to be replaced.
Verify Adequate Air Flow to Condenser
For an air conditioning system to function properly there has to be adequate airflow across
the condenser. The function of the condenser is to dissipate heat, without proper
*Compressor Concerns:
This is often misdiagnosed as a problem for the system not cooling properly. If you have a noisy
airflow your system will not cool correctly in the cabin of your vehicle.
compressor it is due to improper charging of refrigerant. An overcharged (more than 24oz or
Step 1: connect gauges to a/C hoses. The pressures should be: with the ambient temp is 1.8lbs R134) compressor can cause rattling. If charged with pure liquid there is a high probability
90, low side pressures should be between 8-25 psi, high side pressures should be you have bent reed valves that are causing tapping sound.
between 160-260psi
Step 2: IF the low side pressures are normal and the high side pressures are high then
there might be an airflow issue, continue to next step.
To test air flow to Condenser do the following three tests:

1. Place a piece of paper on the condenser with the car in idle and see if paper is held in
place.
2. With car in idle, attach gages, and place a large capacity fan in front of the condenser.
What happens to the pressures?
3. With car still in idle and gages attached, pour water down the front of the condenser.
What happens to the pressures?
TEMPLATE
1968
IF YOU PRINTED THIS MANUAL MUSTANG
PLEASE READ THIS... (CUT-OUT)
Just as a cautionary step, please
OEM
measure this box and make sure it (Punch
is 1 x 1. Some copiers/printers OEM thru)
may not print at 100% of actual size. (Punch
thru)
L
IL
DRILL
R
D
Note: bottom of template is parallel with floor pan

HOLE
HEATER MOTOR
LEVEL
THIS TEMPLATE IS USED
FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR!

1967-1968 Mustang Factory Air

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What are the main components of an automotive air conditioning system?

What are the main components of an automotive air conditioning system?

What should you check before starting the installation?

What should you check before starting the installation?

Installation Manual

1967-1968 Mustang Factory Air

Again, thank you from our entire staff.

Procedures, During Installation:

Measure twice (or more), cut once

YOU CAN NOW BEGIN THE INSTALLATION...

www.classicautoair.com 866.435.7801 OVERVIEW

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The removal of the OEM evaporator can be accomplished by

When retaining parts its a

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4

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DRAIN COOLANT FROM RADIATOR and store safely to reuse or recycle B

OEM Evaporator Unit

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Two - Cable Clips

Note: you will use

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Two 1/4 - #20 x 5/8" Bolts

Evaporator Support Bracket

Four #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws

Four #10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips Screws

Defrost/Heat Duct Assembly One J-Clip One 1/2" Washer

Illustrations NOT shown actual size

YOU CAN DRILL A 1 3/8"

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Locate in bag kit B the UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET and attach to

#10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screw

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Clear Plastic Drain Tube

Electronic Water Control Valve

Six Worm Gear Clamps

Firewall Block Off Refrigerant Tape

Six #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws

Illustrations NOT shown actual size

Insert a 6" piece of the clear, 1/2" drain tube we included

HE nipple (see figure 24). Seal around tube with

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Five #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws

Wire Harness System

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Cable Integrators ness

Servo for Defrost Ducts

#1 #2 DASH COLD OFF #3 DASH COLD OFF #4 DASH COLD OFF

FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH

Move FAN control to medium Move MODE control to

#5 #6 After 1 second the #7 #8

FLR HOT HIGH FLR HOT HIGH

You may be able to tion

Move TEMP control to