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Module 6: Creams & Lotions

Creams (and lo-ons) are quite dierent to the oils and balms weve learnt about so far as they
contain both oil and water.

As oil is not soluble in water, you cant mix oil soluble and water soluble ingredients together
without the help of addi-onal ingredients called emulsiers.

Creams are therefore a combina-on of water and oil held together with an emulsifying wax. As
water is used in a cream it is really important to use a preserva3ve to protect the product against
water borne bacteria and microbial contamina-on. If you prefer not to use a preserva-ve then
you need to store your cream in the fridge and use it within a week. For more informa-on on
emulsiers and preserva-ves see the guide on Emulsiers, Preserva-ves & An-oxidants in Module
1.

What is needed in a moisturising cream or lo3on?

Emollients to smooth, soLen and hydrate your skin e.g. vegetable oils
Occlusives a barrier to block water escaping from the skin e.g. shea buMer
Humectants - which aMract water to your skin e.g. glycerine
Emulsier to combine oil and water e.g. emulsifying wax NF or Polawax
Thickener and stabiliser - Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol or Stearic Acid
Preserva3ve Kills microorganisms and water borne bacteria and prevents the growth of fungus,
mould and yeast e.g. Preserva-ve Eco
An3-oxidant to protect against rancidity if using oils with a short shelf life e.g. Vitamin E

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The three phases to making a cream

There are three phases to making a cream. An oil phase, a water phase and a cooling phase. These
are combined together to produce the cream or lo-on.

1) Oil phase (usually 20 - 35% of recipe)

The oil phase contains oil soluble ingredients such as:
Vegetable oils
Cocoa buMer / shea buMer
Emulsifying wax (usually 25% of oil soluble ingredients)
Cetyl alcohol

2) Water phase (usually 60-80% of recipe)

The water phase contains water soluble ingredients such as:
Spring water/ herbal infusion/ ower water
Aloe Vera
Vegetable Glycerine

3) Cooling phase (usually 1- 5% of recipe)

The cooling phase contains heat sensi-ve ingredients such as:
Essen-al oils
Vitamin E (an an-oxidant)
Preserva-ve
Ac-ves and Extracts

What is the dierence between a cream and a lo3on?

Creams and lo-ons contain the same ingredients and are made in the same way. The dierence is
the size of the water phase and oil phase.

A lo-on has a bigger water phase (around 70-80%) and smaller oil phase which makes a thinner
product. Because they have a smaller oil phase they also contain less emulsifying wax. Its best to
store lo-ons in pump containers.

A cream has a smaller water phase (around 60%) and larger oil phase (usually also containing
buMers) which creates a thicker product. Because they contain a bigger oil phase they also contain
more emulsifying wax. Creams can be stored in pump containers or in jars.

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Basic Creams and Lo3on Recipes

When you formulate a recipe:
Always ensure it adds up to 100%. Then you can choose your batch size (how much total product
you want to make e.g 50g or 250g) and easily work out how much of which ingredients to add
using a simple formula.
Always weigh the ingredients (even the liquids) as this achieves the most reliable measurements.
Work in grams

Basic cream recipe

Oil phase = 29%

15% oil
5% buMer
3% cetyl alcohol
6% emulsifying wax

Water phase = 69%

2% glycerine
67% water

Cooling Phase = 2%
1% essen-al oil (approximately 20 drops)
1% preserva-ve (or according to manufacturers instruc-ons)

* note - if your chosen preserva-ve requires a lower usage rate e.g. 0.5% or you choose to vary
the amount of essen-al oil then adjust the water phase accordingly so the formula s-ll equals
100%

Basic light lo3on recipe

Oil phase = 18%

12% oil
2% cetyl alcohol
4% emulsifying wax

Water phase = 80%

2% glycerine
78% water

Cooling Phase = 2%
1% essen-al oil (approximately 20 drops)
1% preserva-ve (or according to manufacturers instruc-ons)

* note - if your chosen preserva-ve requires a lower usage rate e.g. 0.5% or you choose to vary
the amount of essen-al oil then adjust the water phase accordingly so the formula s-ll equals
100%

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Ingredients found in a cream

Oil phase ingredients

Vegetable oils - you can choose whichever oils suit the skin type/purpose of the cream. Vegetable
oils are emollients which soLen and smooth the skin, and improve the exibility and appearance
of the skin.

BuXers - These are really soLening and add an extra emollient boost for dry skin. In a cream or
lo-on they are usually used at 5-15% of the recipe. They add to the consistency of the cream or
lo-on, making it a liMle thicker. BuMers are occlusive which means they form a thin membrane on
the surface of the skin to protect it, whilst s-ll allowing the skin to breathe naturally. Very good for
dry skin.

Emulsifying wax - is the most common emulsifying agent used to make creams and lo-ons; it
binds the oil phase and water phase of an emulsion together. Emulsifying waxes contain a
hydrophillic element (water loving) and lipophilic element (oil loving). This means they are
aMrac-ve to both oil and water which allows them to bind the two together in a stable mixture.

Emulsiers are usually derived from natural ingredients (for example coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil
etc) which have been processed to create a wax that works eec-vely as an emulsier.
Emulsifying wax is very dierent to beeswax and beeswax is not a suitable subs-tute.

Its important to make sure you use a complete or or all-in-one emulsier. This means that it is a
complete emulisca-on system and does not require anything else to emulsify your product.

Emulsifying Wax NF, Polawax, and Emulsifying Wax BP are all-in-one emulsiers, they are easy to
use and produce reliable results. BTMS-50 is a good op-on for more oily skin types as it gives a
powdery feeling on the skin. Gracefruit (UK), Lo-oncraLer (USA) and The Herbarie (USA) are good
suppliers for emulsifying wax. YOu may need to try a few un-l you nd one that you like.

Emulsifying wax is usually used at 25% of the oil soluble ingredients phase. On average using
Emulsifying wax at 4-5% of your recipe will produce a lo-on and 6-7% will produce a cream.

Cetyl alcohol - a faMy alcohol made from natural oils and fats that acts as a stabiliser and
thickener.

Water phase ingredients

Glycerine - this is a humectant which means it aMracts water and binds it to the skin. Humectants
work in combina-on with emollients and occlusives to keep the skin moisturised. Glycerine is a
water soluble sweet, s-cky substance which is why just a small amount is used in the water phase.

Aloe Vera - this is an op-onal ingredient. Aloe vera is soothing, cooling and an--inammatory. I
use the 1:1 strength which is a liquid sold by skincare suppliers.

Water - It is important not to use tap water as this will shorten the shelf life of your product
signicantly. Deionised or dis-lled water is best.

Dis3lled water has had many of its impuri-es removed through dis-lla-on. Dis-lla-on involves
boiling the water and then condensing the steam into a container meaning it should be free of
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metals, salts, and contaminants like bacteria and viruses. Dis-lled water is easily available in the
US but no so readily available in the UK.

Deionised water has been ltered to remove the mineral ions which results in a high purity water
similar to dis-lled water. In the UK deionised water can be found in the car sec-on of
supermarkets or in shops such as Halfords. Its sold as baMery top up water.

For creams and lo-ons for your own use which you will use quickly you could use boMled spring
water or ltered water.

Alterna-ves to using water are:

Herbal infusions - you can then harness the proper-es of these herbs and owers in your cream.
Try rose, chamomile, calendula, or marshmallow.

Flower water/ hydrolats - these are a natural by-product of the produc-on of essen-al oils. They
are a dis-lled product so very pure and contain the same proper-es as the essen-al oil in a mild
form.

Cooling phase ingredients

These are added once the cream has cooled as the proper-es of these ingredients can be
damaged by heat.

Vitamin E oil - you can use natural or synthe-c vitamin E. Once vegetable oils are exposed to air
they start a natural process of decay called oxida-on. Oils high in essen-al faMy acids such as
evening primrose, borage, hemp and rosehip oxidize much faster than other vegetable oils. Adding
an an-oxidant slows down this process, extending the shelf life of your products. 0.5% vitamin E is
sucient for prolonging the life of your products.

Preserva3ves - As men-oned above, when using water in a product its essen-al to add a
preserva-ve. Use according to the manufacturers instruc-ons - most are added to the cooling
phase but some are added to the water phase. We like to use Preserva-ve Eco from Aroman-c
but there are many others to choose from. See the guide to Emulsiers, Preserva/ves and
An/oxidants in Module 1 for more informa-on. If you are using a herbal infusion rather than
water in your creams then you may need to add slightly more preserva-ve. Check with the
manufacturer or supplier for their recommended usage. Grapefruit Seed Extract is not a suitable
preserva-ve.

Essen3al Oils - these are added in the cooling phase so they dont evaporate. You can use
anywhere from 0.5 - 2% essen-al oils for most skincare products. A dilu-on of 0.5% = 10 drops of
essen-al oil per 100ml of cream, 1% = 20 drops and 2% = 40 drops. Essen-al oils are very powerful
so even in small amounts they are very eec-ve. Always check the contraindica-ons and read
through the Essen/al Oil Safety and Storage Informa/on before using.

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Making Creams and Lo3ons

Crea3ng a successful emulsion

There are three steps to crea-ng a successful emulsion:

1) Chemical emulsion - Finding a complete or all-in-one emulsifying wax that is easy to work with
is the rst step to crea-ng a stable emulsion.

2) Heat emulsica3on - When making emulsions we have to heat our ingredients up to a certain
temperature for them to emulsify together properly. Both the oil phase and water phase need to
be heated (separately) to the same temperature before combining them. This is usually 70-75C .
Holding the phases at this temperature for 20 minutes before combing will create a more stable
emulsion. Ensure the two phases are the same temperature before combining.

3) Mechanical emulsica3on - We need to blend our oil and water phases together thoroughly
using a whisk or s-ck blender to ensure they emulsify together properly.

Crea3ng a bain-marie, double boiler or water bath

Its important not to place your ingredients directly over heat so instead you want to create a
bain-marie (also known as a double boiler or water bath) to heat your water phase and your oil
phase.

Place a pyrex jug or heat proof beaker on a metal ring (such as a cookie cuMer) inside a saucepan
of boing water. Instead of a saucepan of water you could use a Crockpot or electric fondue pot.

Beakers: Look for heat proof polyproplene, chemical resistant, autoclavable beakers. In the UK you
can nd them here and in the USA search on
ebay or check out these from Lo-oncraLer.

Metal rings: In the USA Brambleberry sell

double boiler makers here. You can also
use cookie cuMers.

Double boiler inserts: In the UK these from

Ikea are useful.

Other equipment needed:

An electric s-ck blender for larger batches,

or a whisk for smaller batches.
Accurate digital scales.

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Method for making creams and lo3ons

Here we will outline two slightly dierent methods for making creams and lo-ons. The heat and
hold method will create the most stable emulsions and is the recommended method for best
results. The quick method is one I have found works with Emulsifying Wax BP from Soap Kitchen
(UK) and is useful for quick creams made for my own use.

Method 1) Heat and Hold method (when using Emulsifying Wax NF or Polawax)

Hea-ng and holding both kills o any bacteria in the water and reduces the size of the oil
molecules making it easier to combine the oil and water phases.

1. Place the oil phase ingredients in a bain marie and allow the ingredients to melt. Bring the
temperature up to 70C.

2. Place the water phase ingredients in a second bain marie (weigh the container plus water so
you know the weight before hea-ng). Bring the temperature up to 70C.

3. Heat a third container just containing water to 70C.

This will be used to top up your water phase as the
water phase will decrease during the hea-ng and
holding due to evapora-on.

3. Hold both the oil and water phase at 70C for 20

minutes.

4. Check the quan-ty of water and add more if needed

from the extra water you have heated.

5. Ensure the water phase and oil phase are the same
temperature. Add the water phase to the oil phase
mixing at the same -me. An electric s-ck blender is
useful. Be careful not to introduce too many air bubbles. Keep mixing for a couple of minutes.

6. Allow the cream to cool, mixing from -me to -me. You can place the container in cold water to
speed this up. As it cools it will start to thicken. Add the Preserva-ve and other cooling phase
ingredients and blend well.

7. Pour into your containers. This should keep for 12 months. You can make it without
preserva-ve but then you must store in the fridge and use within 1 week.

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Method 2) Quick method (when using Emulsifying Wax BP)

This quick method works with Emulsifying Wax BP from Soap Kitchen (UK).

1. Place the oil phase ingredients in a bain marie and allow ingredients to melt. Bring the
temperature up to around 65-75C.

2. Boil the keMle and pour the appropriate amount of water over the glycerine. This forms your
water phase.

3. Check that both oil phase and water phase are the same temperature (around 65 - 75C.). They
will be about the same if you have followed this method.

4. Slowly add the water phase to the oil phase whisking gently all the -me being careful not to
introduce too many air bubbles. Keep s-rring for a couple of minutes.

5.Place the bowl containing the cream over a

second bowl of cold water. Con-nue to s-r. As it
cools it will start to thicken. Add the Preserva-ve
and other cooling phase ingredients and mix
well.

6. Pour into your containers. This should keep for

12 months. You can make it without preserva-ve
but then you must store in the fridge and use
within 1 week.

Video Tutorial

Watch the Frankincense & Ylang Ylang Moisturising Cream Video

This shows the quick method. Adapt it to the heat and hold method by following the instruc-ons
above.

Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

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Troubleshoo3ng
There are several common problems that can occur when making creams. See the
Troubleshoo-ng: Creams & Balms guide for help on the following:

1. My cream separates
2. My cream is too runny
3. My cream is too thick/ hard

Shelf life
As men-oned above, without a preserva-ve a cream would need to be stored in the fridge and
would only last a week. With a preserva-ve they can last much longer (1-2 years) although 12
months is a safer bet for creams made at home. Consider carefully the packaging you will use. A
glass jar is ne but will mean that you are using your ngers to removes the products which is a
poten-al means of introducing bacteria and that you are exposing the product to air. The
an-oxidants and preserva-ves in the creams will protect it from this to some extent. Using an
airless pump dispensers means that you are not introducing air or pusng your ngers directly in
the cream, this is likely to result in an extended shelf life.

How to use
A small amount can be used in the morning, evening or when required.

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Formula3ng a Cream or Lo3on Recipe

When you formulate a recipe:

Always ensure it adds up to 100%. Then you can choose your batch size (how much total product
you want to make e.g 50g or 250g) and easily work out how much of which ingredients to add
using a simple formula.
Always weigh the ingredients (even the liquids) as this achieves the most reliable measurements.
Work in grams

Basic cream recipe

Oil phase = 29%

15% oil
5% buMer
3% cetyl alcohol
6% emulsifying wax (Emulsifying wax NF, Polawax, BTMS 50 or Emulsifying wax BP)

Water phase = 69%

2% glycerine
67% water

Cooling Phase = 2%
1% essen-al oil (approximately 20 drops)
1% preserva-ve (or according to manufacturers instruc-ons)

note - if your chosen preserva-ve requires a lower usage rate e.g. 0.5% or you choose to vary the
amount of essen-al oil then adjust the water phase accordingly so the formula s-ll equals 100%

Basic light lo3on recipe

Oil phase = 18%

12% oil
2% cetyl alcohol
4% emulsifying wax (Emulsifying wax NF,
Polawax, BTMS 50 or Emulsifying wax BP)

Water phase = 80%

2% glycerine
78% water

Cooling Phase = 2%
1% essen-al oil (approximately 20 drops)
1% preserva-ve (or according to manufacturers instruc-ons)

note - if your chosen preserva-ve requires a lower usage rate e.g. 0.5% or you choose to vary the
amount of essen-al oil then adjust the water phase accordingly so the formula s-ll equals 100%

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How to formulate your own recipe

Ques-ons to ask yourself to help you choose your ingredients and formulate a recipe.

1) Is a cream or lo3on more suitable?

Who is it for or what skin type is it for? Dry, oily, mature etc
What is the purpose of the cream? Is it a day cream/ night cream?
Do you want a light easily absorbed texture or a thicker, richer consistency?

Choose either the light lo-on or cream recipe above as your template.

2) Choosing vegetable oils and essen3al oils

Is the cream/ lo-on for a specic problem or skin type such as dry skin, an--aging, acne?
What ingredients are benecial to that skin type and/or condi-on? Do your research and use the
charts in Modules 1 & 2 to help.
Do you want lighter oils or richer more moisturising oils?
Do you want to add a buMer for a richer product and for its occlusive func-on?
Which essen-al oils do you like the smell of?

This is just the very beginning of how to formulate a recipe! We cover formula-ng lo-ons and
creams in much more detail in our Formula3ng Creams and Lo3ons Online Course. If youd like to
take your formula-ng to the next level do check it out at www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

Calcula3ng a batch

As you have created your formula in % its very easy to scale this up or down depending on the
amount of product you want to make. Use this formula to calculate how much ingredient to use:

Percentage 100 x total amount of product

For example if I am making 250g of the light lo-on recipe above I would use:
30g oil (12 100 x 250)
5g cetyl alcohol (2 100 x 250)
10g emulsifying wax (4 100 x 250)

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Moisturising Creams & Lo3ons Recipes

These recipes all equal 100g. Replace the g with % and you have a formula that can be scaled up or
down to make smaller or larger quan--es of cream.

Regenera3ng Ylang Ylang and Frankincense Cream

Packed full of skin regenera/ng and rejuvena/ng ingredients. Wonderful for dry, normal or mature
skin. Macadamia is a wonderful oil for an/-aging blends due to the high content of palmi/c acid
which slows the aging process. Avocado is rich in vitamin E, healing and nourishing, encourages
skin cell regenera/on and has a wonderful soG, silky feel on the skin. Evening Primrose is rich in
GLA (an omega 6 faLy acid) which helps skin retain moisture and its also a regenera/ng oil.
Frankincense is one of the most important oils for aging skin as it is cytophylac/c which means it
regenerates skin cells. Ylang Ylang balances sebum and has a blissful aroma.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
5g avocado oil
5g evening primrose oil
10g macadamia oil

Water phase
67g water
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E Oil
1g (20 drops) Preserva-ve Eco (or as
manufacturers instruc-ons)
0.25g (5 drops) ylang ylang essen-al oil
0.25g (5 drops) frankincense essen-al oil

Revitalising Wild Rose and Frankincense Face Cream

Wonderful for dry, normal or mature skin. This cream uses rosehip oil known for its rejuvena/ng
proper/es. Rosehip is the only vegetable oil to contain tre/noin (a form of vitamin A) which helps
to repair damaged skin, acne, and reduce wrinkles and scars. Frankincense and lavender both
s/mulate cellular regenera/on. In this recipe Ive increased the amount of vitamin E oil to 5%. At
this percentage the an/oxidants in the vitamin E benet the skin by protec/ng it from free radical
damage which ages the skin more quickly in addi/onal to extending the shelf life of the product.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
10g macadamia oil
5g avocado oil
5g rosehip oil

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Water phase
66g water
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E Oil
0.5g (10 drops) lavender essen-al oil
0.5g (10 drops) frankincense essen-al oil
1g (20 drops) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)

Soothing Lavender and Marshmallow Cream

This cream is full of soothing, soGening ingredients for dry or sensi/ve skin. Aloe vera is the classic
soothing ingredient and marshmallow root is wonderful - it soothes, soGens, heals skin and
reduces inamma/on. Cocoa buLer is very soGening and lavender is soothing and healing. A
magical mix! You could replace the marshmallow infusion with chamomile.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
5g cocoa buMer
15g vegetable oil (e.g. almond, peach,
apricot)

Water Phase
60ml Marshmallow root herbal infusion
10g aloe vera 1:1
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
1g (20 drops) lavender essen-al oil
1g (20 drops) Preserva-ve Eco (or as
manufacturers instruc-ons)

Frankincense, Orange and Geranium Day Cream

This is a fresh, nourishing and easily absorbed cream perfect as a day cream for normal - dry skin.
Rice bran and hazelnut oil are nourishing and soGening as well as being light and easily absorbed.
Rice bran oil contains ferulic acid which is a very eec/ve an/-oxidant and can prevent skin aging
and reduce age spots oil. Borage oil is very high in the faLy acid GLA (gamma linolenic acid) which
helps the skin retain moisture, is a great an/-inammatory and useful for trea/ng eczema, acne
and psoriasis. Frankincense is one of the most important oils for aging skin as it is cytophylac/c
which means it regenerates skin cells. Geranium balances sebum and Orange adds a sweet aroma.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
5g hazlenut oil
5g borage oil
10g rice bran oil
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Water phase
66g water
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E Oil
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 8 drops Frankincense essen-al oil
8 drops Geranium essen-al oil
and 4 drops Orange essen-al oil

Regenera3ng Sweet Dreams Night Cream

This cream uses cocoa buLer which keeps the skin supple, soG and moisturised. Its nourishing,
protec/ng and soGening and perfect for night cream.
Frankincense and lavender are both wonderfully rejuvena/ng
skin care oils and the aroma is calming and relaxing, perfect for
ge\ng ready for a res]ul, rejuvena/ng nights sleep. This cream
also works well as a day cream for dry skin.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
5g cocoa buMer
5g peach, apricot kernal or sunower oil
5g rosehip oil
5g macadamia or avocado oil

Water Phase
66g water
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E
1g (20 drops) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers
instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 14 drops of lavender essen-al oil
6 drops frankincense essen-al oil
4 drops ylang ylang essen-al oil

Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

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Geranium and Bergamot Balancing Lo3on

This is a wonderful daily moisturising lo/on for normal - oily skin. In this cream the hazelnut oil,
jojoba oil and geranium essen/al oil all help to balance sebum produc/on. Bergamot is a fresh,
upliGing and an/sep/c oil which is great for oily skin.

Oil phase
4g emulsifying wax
2g cetyl alcohol
6g jojoba oil
6g hazelnut oil

Water Phase
78g water
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil:
8 drops of geranium essen-al oil
12drops bergamot FCF essen-al oil

Nourishing Daily Lo3on

This is a wonderful daily moisturising lo/on for normal

- dry skin. It has a light texture but is full of nourishing
oils which help the skin retain moisture. Rice bran oil
contains ferulic acid which is a very eec/ve an/-
oxidant and can prevent skin aging and reduce age
spots oil. Macadmia oil is emollient, rejuvena/ng,
soothing, protec/ve, easily absorbed. Aloe vera is rich
in polysaccharides which are emollient, hydra/ng and
an/-inammatory.

Oil phase
4g emulsifying wax
2g cetyl alcohol
4g rice bran
4g sunower oil
4g macadamia oil

Water Phase
68g water
10g aloe vera
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 10 drops bergamot FCF essen-al oil
4 drops ylang ylang essen-al oil
6 drops lavender essen-al oil
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Aloe and Palmarosa Balancing Lo3on

This is a lovely light and fresh lo/on perfect for oily or combina/on skin types. This lo/on uses a
new emulsier called Olivem 1000 which is approved in Ecocert products and produces very light
lo/ons. Jojoba oil and palmarosa essen/al oil are both wonderful for oily skin types as they help to
balance the amount of sebum the skin produces. Hazlenut oil is a good alterna/ve as it has
astringent proper/es.

Oil phase
10g jojoba oil or hazlenut oil
4g Olivem 1000 emulsifying wax

Water Phase
72g water
10g aloe vera
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 10 drops palmarosa essen-al oil
10 drops lavender essen-al oil

Method when using Olivem 1000

The process for making creams is slightly dierent when using Olivem 1000. For best results in
step 2 pour the oil into the water phase (instead of pouring the water into the oil phase as with
the other creams). In step 3 allow the cream to cool naturally instead of placing it over cold water.
Once it has cooled naturally add the cooling phase ingredients and mix well.

Calendula and Rosemary Healing Lo3on

This is a lovely light lo/on packed full of healing ingredients to help with acne. Calendula is
calming, an/bacterial, an/-inammatory and contains amazing skin healing proper/es. Rosemary
is a wonderful oil for acne prone skin as it is highly an/sep/c, promotes healing, encourages the
growth of skin cells and can help eliminate scarring. Sunower oil is light and well absorbed and
high in linoleic acid high is an/- inammatory and can help with acne.

Oil phase
4g emulsifying wax
2g cetyl alcohol
6g sunower oil
6g borage oil

Water Phase
37g water
30g calendula infusion
10g aloe vera
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g borage oil
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
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1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 6 drops rosemary essen-al oil

14 drops lavender essen-al oil

Eczema Soother

Chickweed is detoxifying, an/-inammatory, and emollient and a classic oil in the treatment of
eczema. The GLA in borage oil has also been found to be excellent in the treatment of eczema. Aloe
vera is rich in polysaccharides which are emollient, hydra/ng and an/-inammatory. Lavender,
bergamot and geranium are Gareths secret blend of essen/al oils for eczema as they treat both
the skin itself and the emo/onal issues which are oGen the root cause.

Oil phase
4g emulsifying wax
2g cetyl alcohol
4g calendula oil (infused in sunower oil)
4g borage oil
4g jojoba oil

Water Phase
37g water
30g calendula and chickweed infusion
10g aloe vera
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers
instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 10 drops bergamot essen-al oil
5 drops lavender essen-al oil
5 drops geranium essen-al oil

Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

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Cleansing Lo3ons
The consistency of these cleansing lo-ons is between the lo-on and cream recipes above as they
use 5% emulsifying wax with a 25% total oil phase. These are best packaged in pump dispensers.
As with the other cleanser recipes, if you wish to use to remove eye makeup I recommend
omisng the essen-al oils.

To use: Massage into damp skin and remove with coMon wool or a warm muslin cloth or annel.
Can be used to removed eye make up but be careful not to get any in your eyes. You may wish to
make a lo-on without essen-al oils if you want to use it as an eye make up remover.

The recipes below use castor oil as its the classic choice for cleansers - the oil isnt easily absorbed,
aMracts dirt and has a drawing ac-on so is great for cleansing the skin. It has a silky texture and
glides o the skin easily.

Gentle Cleansing Lo3on

This is a very pure, simple lo/on with gently cleansing mandarin and lavender essen/al oils. You
could omit the essen/al oils for a fragrance free lo/on.

Oil phase
5g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
7g castor oil
15g apricot kernel, peach kernal or sunower oil

Water Phase
66g spring water
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 10 drops lavender essen-al oil
10 drops mandarin essen-al oil

Soothing Cleansing Lo3on

The marshmallow and calendula infusion makes this a soothing, healing and soGening cleaning
lo/on.

Oil phase
5g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
7g castor oil
15g apricot kernel, peach kernal or sunower oil

Water Phase
66g marshmallow and calendula infusion
2.5g glycerine

Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

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Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers
instruc-ons)
0.5g (10 drops) lavender essen-al oil

Freshening Grapefruit & Geranium Cleansing Lo3on

Grapefruit essen/al oil is wonderful in cleansing

products as its a fresh and upliGing oil which helps
detoxify and tone the skin. It combines very well with
geranium essen/al oil.

Oil phase
5g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
7g castor oil
15g apricot kernel, peach kernal or sunower oil

Water Phase
66g water
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers
instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 10 drops grapefruit essen-al oil
5 drops lavender essen-al oil
5 drops geranium essen-al oil

Deep Cleansing Lo3on

For oily skin or acne. The use of rosemary and tea tree makes this an an/bacterial, deep cleansing
treatment. Avoid use around the eye area.

Oil phase
5g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
7g castor oil
15g apricot kernel, peach kernal or sunower oil

Water Phase
66g tea tree or rosemary hydrolat (ower water)
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
20 drops (1g) Preserva-ve Eco (or as manufacturers instruc-ons)
1g (20 drops) essen-al oil: 15 drops lavender essen-al oil
5 drops rosemary essen-al oil
Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
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Please note: the School of Natural Skincare, has taken all reasonable care in sourcing and
presen-ng accurate informa-on in this eCourse but no responsibility is accepted for any
inaccuracies or mistakes in the informa-on, or loss or damage that may result from its use.

Copyright 2013 Gail Francombe

All rights reserved. All recipes and informa-on are for personal use only by students who have
purchased the course. This eCourse or any por-on thereof may not be shared or reproduced or
used in any manner whatsoever without the express wriMen permission of the author.

Gail Francombe 2013! www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com