Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
The Authors 11 Noord Holland
& Flevoland 145
NOORD HOLLAND 147
Getting Started 12 Haarlem 147
Around Haarlem 152
Ijmuiden 152
Itineraries 16 Beverwijk 153
Zaanse Schans 154
Zaandam 154
Snapshot 22 Waterland Region 154
Monnickendam 155

History 24 Volendam & Marken

Edam
156
157
Alkmaar 159

The Culture 33 Broek op Langedijk

Hoorn
162
162
Enkhuizen 164

Environment 48 Medemblik
Den Helder
166
166
Texel 167
Architecture 54 Aalsmeer
Muiden
171
171
Het Gooi 172
Food & Drink 59 FLEVOLAND
Lelystad
174
174
Oostvaardersplassen
Nature Reserve 176
Cycling in the Urk 176
Netherlands 69 Schokland 177

Amsterdam 78 Utrecht 178

History 79 Around Utrecht City 185
Orientation 79 Amersfoort 185
Information 80 Doorn 187
Dangers & Annoyances 81 Amerongen 188
Oudewater 188
Sights 82
Activities 110
Walking Tour 112 Zuid Holland
Amsterdam for
Children 113
& Zeeland 189
ZUID HOLLAND 190
Tours 115
Leiden 190
Festivals & Events 116
Around Leiden 195
Sleeping 118 Den Haag (The Hague) 195
Eating 122 Gouda 202
Drinking 127 Delft 204
Entertainment 129 Rotterdam 208
Shopping 133 Around Rotterdam 219
Getting There & Away 135 Dordrecht 220
Getting Around 135 Biesbosch National Park 223
 Lonely Planet Publications
10 C O N T E N T S

ZEELAND 223 Overijssel LIMBURG 278

Middelburg
Around Middelburg
224
226
& Gelderland 255 Maastricht
Around Maastricht
278
283
Waterland Neeltje Jans 227 OVERIJSSEL 256 North Limburg 284
Schouwen-Duiveland 228 Weerribben National
Zeeuws-Vlaanderen 229 Park 256
Deventer 258 Directory 285
Zwolle 260
Friesland (Frysln) 230 Kampen 262
Leeuwarden (Ljouwert) 232 Northern Overijssel 263 Transport 298
Around Leeuwarden 235 GELDERLAND 263
Sneek (Snits)
Harlingen (Harns)
235
236
Nijmegen
Arnhem
263
266
Health 311
Franeker (Frjentsjer) 237 Around Arnhem 267
Hindeloopen (Hylpen)
Frisian Islands
237
238
Hoge Veluwe National
Park 269
Language 314
Apeldoorn 269
Groningen Elburg 270 Glossary 321
& Drenthe 244
GRONINGEN 245 Noord Brabant Behind the
Groningen City
Museum De Buitenplaats
245
250
& Limburg 271 Scenes 323
NOORD BRABANT 272
Zeehondencreche
Pieterburen 250 Den Bosch
Menkemaborg 250
(S-Hertogenbosch)
Eindhoven
272
274
Index 333
Bourtange 251
DRENTHE 252 Tilburg 275
Assen 252 De Efteling 275 World Time Zones 342
Kamp Westerbork 253 Breda 275
Orvelte 254 Slot Loevestein 277
Emmen 254 West Noord Brabant 277 Map Legend 344

Regional Map Contents

Friesland Groningen
p231 & Drenthe
p245

Noord Holland
& Flevoland
p146

Amsterdam
pp86-7 Overijssel & Gelderland
Utrecht p256
p179
Zuid Holland
& Zeeland
p190

Noord Brabant
& Limburg
p272
 Lonely Planet Publications
12 www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 13

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Getting Started My Dam Life by Sean Condon is a witty and hilarious true-life tale of three
years in the Dutch capital, where the Australian and his wife spend much
of their time looking for work and trying to define the Dutch character.
The Netherlands is an exceedingly user-friendly place to visit. Up-to-date Its an excellent read for anyone contemplating a trip (or a move) to the
information is plentiful, almost every Dutch person speaks decent English, Netherlands.
transport links are swift, and theres an abundance of sights and activities. Xenophobes Guide to the Dutch by Rodney Bolt takes an irreverent look
All this means you can add a fair amount of spontaneity to your trip. at all things Dutch and strikes a fine balance between humour and truth.
That said, a bit of foresight is helpful to pinpoint sights that match your A quick, fun read.
interests, and to get the timing right the bulb fields arent much to look at The Dutch, I Presume? by Martijn de Rooi, Jurjen Drenth and friends is
before the blossoms open. Its also advisable to think about accommodation another book attempting to explain the peculiarities of the Dutch psyche,
beforehand, as Amsterdams best (and sometimes worst) hotels book up and their love affair with windmills, wooden shoes and shelf toilets. It has
months in advance, and other towns may have limited sleeping options. more facts than insights, but its still an interesting read and the photos are
inspired.
WHEN TO GO Amsterdam: A Travelers Literary Companion (edited by Manfred Wolf)
The Netherlands has a typical maritime climate, with cool winters and mild is a collection of 20 short stories by Amsterdam writers, including Harry
summers, so any time is a good time to visit. Be prepared for blustery and Mulisch, Cees Nooteboom, Marga Minco and Bas Heijne. The tales delve
changeable weather, however, and only a handful of sunny days in summer into a side of the capital that is rarely seen by tourists. The anthology
although global warming may be changing that. Precipitation (79cm a year) contains highly readable prose, and its accessible even for armchair
is spread rather evenly over the calendar, and spring is marked by short, travellers.
violent showers. The UnDutchables by Colin White and Laurie Boucke takes a humorous
See Climate, p289, for
Like much of Europe, the high season runs from June to August, which look at Dutch life, from language and transport to child-rearing and social
more information.
is known for its hot, sticky spells but isnt quite the Riviera shown in some habits. Sometimes its spot-on and sometimes its so wide of the mark it
tourist brochures. Hordes of tourists pulse through the Netherlands at this becomes slapstick.
time, but these are the best months to sit on the canals drinking and chatting. Amsterdam by Geert Mak interweaves tales of ordinary citizens with
Many Dutch take a summer holiday, and the last July weekend is deadly for the bigger picture of cultural, social and economic history. It also delves
traffic. You may be surrounded by other foreigners in August, but the month into the Dutch psyche: for instance, why the Dutch eschew nationalism
is crammed with events see p291. for business reasons.
Mid-March to May and September to mid-October are the shoulder Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier, made into a major Hollywood
seasons. Spring is wonderful, as the bulbs are in bloom April for daffodils, film, is a tale of duty and sexuality and offers a peek into life in Delft during
May for tulips. Easter is busy in Amsterdam, but if you can visit during the Golden Age, and that of painter Jan Vermeer.
Koninginnedag (30 April, see p291) its worth fighting the crowds. Early The Acid House by Irvine Welsh is a collection of gritty short stories,
October with its Indian summer can be an excellent time to come. some of which are set in Amsterdams drug underworld. While its not
As the temperature drops, so does the number of tourists things are for everyone, its a good read and a sample of life beyond the capitals
HOW MUCH? calmest from mid-October to mid-March. Museums are quiet and you can touristy faade.
1L gas/petrol 1.40 mingle with the real Dutch in cosy pubs around this time. Accommodation
is also relatively cheap (except around New Year), though some hotels might
1L bottled water 0.80 DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
be closed. The winter months (December to February) see periods of slushy
Glass of Heineken 2.50 snow and temperatures close to freezing. Checking the visa situation
Souvenir T-shirt 15 School holidays are staggered according to region but fall around mid-
Travel insurance
Size 37 plain/painted
February, early May, July and August, and the end of October (see p292).
Passport/EU papers
clogs 17.50/20.50
COSTS & MONEY 220V converter for European plugs
Kibbeling snack 3 The Netherlands really isnt a budget buy, but neither is it the most expensive
European destination. If youre happy eating chips, sleeping in hostels and Ear plugs to counteract fellow hotel guests and street noise
Cinema ticket 7.50
One hour of parking walking around, its possible to hang in the country for around 35 per day. Cholesterol meter (frites!)
(Amsterdam) 3.50 Those who prefer a couple of solid meals a day, a comfy bed with private Good jacket and scarf
facilities and travelling by public transport are looking at 80 per day as a
2/15 strip card 1.60/6.70 starting point. Things start to feel comfortable on 110 per day. Add between Appreciation for flowers
Days bike hire 6-10 5 and 10 to each category when in Amsterdam. Open mind to drugs, sex and Dutch honesty/bluntness
There are a lot of free activities to stretch your budget, especially in
Taste for bad 80s music, because you wont be able to
Amsterdam in summer, and discount passes like the Museumkaart and the
escape it
Amsterdam Pass (p290) can save loads on admission. The first Sunday of
the month is free at many museums, the Concertgebouw holds lunchtime Quick reflexes to avoid cyclists and dodge dog doo-doo
concerts for free and some restaurants have cheaper kiddie meals.
14 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T o p Te n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 15

INTERNET RESOURCES
TOP TENS British Library (www.bl.uk/collections/wider/dutchinternetres2.html) Authoritative lists of links
Our Favourite Festivals & Events for Dutch and Flemish history, politics and culture.
The Dutch have a penchant for celebrating, and some of the biggest and best festivals and events Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.minbuza.nl) Wealth of background facts and
are listed below. See p291 for a full list of festivals in the Netherlands. information, but not officious.
Dutch Tourism Board (www.holland.com) Attractions, cultural articles and loads of practical
Carnaval (Limburg, Noord Brabant, Gelderland) February/March (p291)
stuff hiding amongst the PR.
Koninginnedag (Queens Day) 30 April (p291) Expatica (www.expatica.com/holland) Entertaining all-round guide to life in the Netherlands,
Nationale Molendag (National Mill Day) May (p291) with daily news and listings.
Learn Dutch (www.learndutch.org) Online Dutch course for those keen to learn the language.
Oerol (Terschelling) June (p240)
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) General information on the Netherlands and links to
Holland Festival (Amsterdam) June (p116) various useful Dutch sites.
North Sea Jazz Festival (Rotterdam) mid-July (p214) Uitburo (www.uitburo.nl) Events site for the Netherlands. Its in Dutch but easy to navigate.
Gay Pride Canal Parade (Amsterdam) August (p105)
Grachtenfestival (Amsterdam) August (p117)
Cannabis Cup (Amsterdam) November (p118)
Sinterklaas (National) 5 December (p291)

Must-See Films
Dutch cinema has breached the upper echelons of world film with the following highly
recommonded releases:
Spoorloos (The Vanishing, 1988) Director: George Sluizer
Turks Fruit (Turkish Delight, 1973) Director: Paul Verhoeven
06 (1994) Director: Theo van Gogh
Karakter (Character, 1997) Director: Mike van Diem
Antonia (Antonias Line, 1995) Director: Marleen Gorris
Abel (1986) Director: Alex van Warmerdam
De Vierde Man (The Fourth Man, 1983) Director: Paul Verhoeven
Amsterdam, Global Village (1996) Director: Johan van der Keuken
Fanfare (1958) Director: Bert Haanstra
Father and Daughter (2000) Director: Michael Dudok de Wit

Memorable Museums
The Netherlands is peppered with exceptional museums. The following are some of our most
beloved:
Krller-Mller Museum (p269)
Rijksmuseum (p106)
Van Gogh Museum (p106)
Mauritshuis (p197)
Frans Hals Museum (p149)
Nederlands Architectuur Instituut (p211)
Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (p209)
Groninger Museum (p246)
Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum (p109)
Zuiderzeemuseum (p164)
 16 www.lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Classic Routes 17

SOUTHERN SOJOURN
Itineraries If youve two weeks to spare, start in Amsterdam (p78), but extend your stay
to three days, and alongside a visit to the citys big museums, take time out
to relax in Vondelpark (p107), the capitals English-style park. Once again,
discover the delights of the Jordaan district (p100) by foot or bicycle, then take
CLASSIC ROUTES a load off in a grand caf on the Spui (p127), and browse the exotic wares
in the Albert Cuypmarkt (p134). Divide the rest of your time in Amsterdam
THE LAY OF THE LOWLANDS between viewing the wild kingdom of Artis Zoo (p108), learning about the
Begin in Amsterdam (p78). Visit the Van Gogh Museum (p106) or Rijksmuseum glories of the Dutch East India Company at the Scheepvaartmuseum (p109),
(p106) and rent a bicycle to explore the pretty neighbourhood of Jordaan and escaping the city by bicycle to enjoy the windmills and seascapes of the
(p100). On the second day board a canal-boat tour (p115) and walk the Red Waterland Region (p154).
Light District (p85) before hitting a brown caf or coffeeshop. Continue as on the one-week tour to Haarlem (Keukenhof in season),
Move on to Haarlem (p147) stroll the compact old quarter, and view the Den Haag, Delft and Rotterdam, but add a day for Leiden (p190) and its
masterpieces of the Frans Hals Museum (p149) and the stained glass of the Grote student vibe and old-world splendour. Stop in to see the spinning sails of
Kerk (p148). In tulip season (April and May) witness the unbelievable colours the windmills at Kinderdijk (p219), then head for Middelburg (p224), Zeelands
of the Keukenhof gardens (p195), south of town. prosperous capital, and the nearby Delta Project (p228). Take a train through
Spend one day each in Leiden (p190), for its old-world splendour, and Den the Netherlands southern provinces to Maastricht (p278), a city with more
Haag (p195) dont miss the Mauritshuis (p197) collection, with works from panache than most; two days should be enough to sample some great cuisine
Vermeer to Warhol. and meander through the medieval centre. Head north to visit Hoge Veluwe
In the remaining time take a harbour boat tour in Rotterdam (p208) National Park (p269) whose lush forests and dunes make an enchanting setting
and visit either the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (p209) or the Maritiem for the excellent Krller-Mller Museum (p269), and polish off your trip in the
Museum Rotterdam (p212). The next morning do a walking tour of modern cosmopolitan city of Utrecht (p178).
architecture (p211) before departing for Kinderdijk (p219) and its picturesque
windmills.

This popular route A two-week tour

from Amsterdam covering 700km
through the that passes
historic Dutch cities through some of
of Haarlem, NORTH NORTH
Hollands biggest
Den Haag and SEA SEA and boldest cities,
Rotterdam is a and allows an
mere 103km; the exploration of
sheer variety of the countrys
charms will make a Haarlem Amsterdam
Haarlem Amsterdam astounding Delta
Keukenhof Gardens
week flash by. Leiden Leiden &
Project, and its
Den Haag Den Haag Keukenhof
Gardens
Utrecht
Hoge Veluwe
National Park
most acclaimed
Delft Deventer
Rotterdam GERMANY GERMANY national park.
Rotterdam
Kinderdijk
Kinderdijk

Middelburg

BELGIUM BELGIUM
Maastricht
 18 ITINERARIES Classic Routes www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 19

CIRCUMNAVIGATING THE IJSSELMEER

A practical place to start this tour is Amsterdam (p78); three days in the capital
will whiz by in a blur of museums, parks, canal tours and nightlife. From
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
here, head north along the IJsselmeer coast through the Waterland Region ISLANDS ESCAPES
(p154) to the tiny fishing village of Marken (p156) where a ferry will transport The necklace of low-lying Wadden Islands (Texel, Vlieland, Terschelling,
you across the inland sea to Volendam (p156). Enjoy a meal overlooking the Ameland and Schiermonnikoog) is just the ticket for a week of island-hop-
harbour, but escape the crowds to Edam (p157), which comes second only ping, preferably with bicycle in tow. Some ferry links require advance plan-
to Haarlem as the prettiest town in Noord Holland. Overnight here before ning, but if youve time and energy, it shouldnt prove too big a problem.
reaching Alkmaar (p159) early to experience its kitsch but fun cheese mar- A full day on Texel (p167) is a good starting point; hop on your bike and
ket, then spend the afternoon wandering through Enkhuizens enthralling snake along the western coast from sleepy Den Hoorn (p167) through dark
Zuiderzeemuseum (p164). copses to the Ecomare (p167) seal and bird refuge. Take a catamaran ride
The next morning catch a bus to Den Helder (p166), and from there a near De Cocksdorp (p167) before bedding down here for the night. The next
ferry to Texel (p167). Spend two days (or the entire two weeks) divid- day comb the eastern side of the island, admiring pretty thatched houses in
ing your time between the beach and bike exploration, then take another Oosterend (p167) and visiting the Maritime & Beachcombers Museum (p168) in
ferry to Vlieland (p239) to appreciate the wilder side of the Frisian Islands. Oudeschild (p167).
From Vlieland, a ferry will take you back to the mainland and dump you From De Cocksdorp board the morning ferry to car-free Vlieland (p239)
at Harlingen (p236), from where Leeuwarden (p232) is only a short train ride to explore its nature and hiking trails before catching the boat to Terschelling
away. Frieslands capital is not only a good spot to enjoy Frisian hospitality, (p240), Frieslands main tourist island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend (p240)
but its also a fine base for exploring the surrounding area; the water sports for the night and cycle through untouched De Boschplaat (p240), then hightail
centre of Sneek (p235) is close at hand, as are a chain of captivating coastal it by ferry to Harlingen (p236), a pretty little port on the Frisian coast, and on to
towns (p237) on the IJsselmeer. Holwerd, where you ferry across for a stay on Ameland (p241). Its four towns
The train trip from Leeuwarden to Amsterdam completes the circum- are pretty for a brief stroll, and the eastern end is ideal to bike away from it
navigation of the IJsselmeer, but its worth breaking your journey in all. Return to the former whaling port of Nes (p242) for the night. The next
Naarden (p172) and Muiden (p171), two of Noord Hollands historical day stay put for a boat tour to the sea lions, and to commune with nature.
fortress towns. Your last stop, via the ports of Holwerd and Lauwersoog, is Schiermonnikoog
(p242), the smallest of the Frisian Islands and a wild national park.
This two-week trip, Ameland Schiermonnikoog This week-long
Terschelling
covering 570km, Lauwersoog hop along the
Vlieland Vlieland Holwerd
provides a taste Wadden Islands
Harlingen
of Dutch life on Texel
Leeuwarden
Texel
Harlingen covers just 200km,
the open sea. It NORTH
Sneek
NORTH but you will be
Den Helder Coastal
passes through SEA Towns SEA tempted to spend
historically im- longer soaking
Enkhuizen
portant nautical Alkmaar up their wild, en-
towns, holiday Volendam & Edam chanting beauty.
Marken
islands and water- Amsterdam Amsterdam
sports centres. Muiden
Naarden

GERMANY GERMANY

BELGIUM BELGIUM
20 I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 21

EASTERN EXPERIENCE
The Netherlands eastern expanse is largely ignored by tourists who settle
for the big guns of the Dutch lowlands, but there are some hidden highlights
TAILORED TRIPS
among the polders waiting to be discovered. FAMILY FORAYS
Begin your trip in Groningen (p245), a vibrant city populated by students, The Netherlands is made for family holidays beaches, parks, cycling (with
bars, cafs, and a couple of fine museums. Spend the morning roaming the no hills!), museums, its all here to entertain parents and their prodigies.
inner city, the afternoon in the first-rate Groninger Museum (p246), and the Aside from canal tours and bike rides, Amsterdam (p113) is filled with family
evening enjoying the citys thriving nightlife. If your hangover allows, greet attractions. The likes of the Scheepvaartmuseum (p109), with its tall-ship replicas,
the next day early and bus southeast to Bourtange (p251), a perfectly preserved and Tropenmuseum (p109), featuring a separate childrens section, will spark the
17th-century fortified town on the border with Germany, before moving on imagination of both young and old, while excess energy can be spent running
to Borger and its prehistoric hunebedden (p253), stone arrangements once wild in Vondelpark (p107) or TunFun (p99), a large underground playground.
used as burial chambers. From nearby Emmen (p254), catch a train to Zwolle Close to the capital, the windmills and boat rides of Zaanse Schans
(p260), capital of Overijssel province and a compact, easy-going town. A (p154) will surely delight, as will the sand dunes and pristine beaches of the
bike trip through the eerie expanse of nearby Weerribben National Park (p256) Kennemerduinen Nature Reserve (p152).
is a good way to spend the afternoon. Gelderland has a legion of zoological parks,
From Zwolle, its only a short train ride to Deventer (p258), an unhur- including Harderwijks aquatic park, Dolfinarium Zeehondencreche
ried town thats big on relaxation and small on tourism. Deventer is also (p263), Apeldoorns primarily primate zoo, Apen-
Ecomare
a good base for exploring the Hoge Veluwe National Park (p269), a natural heul (p263), and Arnhems well laid-out Burgers
oasis thats home to one of the finest art museums in the country. After Zoo (p263). The cute seals and interactive nature Zaanse
a night in Deventer, head for Den Bosch (p272), a city ringed by canals and displays of Texels Ecomare (p167) and Pieter- Kennemerduinen Schans
defensive walls; its quiet back streets are a pleasure to stroll. Breda (p275) is burens Zeehondencreche (p250) never fail to please. Nature Reserve
AMSTERDAM
Dolfinarium
Apenheul
your next stop, where a day and a night can easily be spent appreciating the De Efteling (p275), with scary rides aplenty, Burger's Zoo
Madurodam
citys compact centre. To round the trip off, its back to nature at Biesbosch is the Dutch Disneyland, while a miniaturised Waterland
National Park (p223). Netherlands at Madurodam (p199) may be far Neeltje Jans De Efteling
more sedate, but no less entertaining. Maas-
trichts underground caves (p281) are perfect for
the entire family, as is the Waterland Neeltje Jans Maastricht
This seven-day (p227) in the heart of the Delta Project.
excursion through
the Netherlands ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Groningen There is no denying that the Netherlands is a playground for grown-ups.
eastern provinces
Breweries, brown cafs, coffeeshops, red light districts, world-class clubbing,
covers 530km and NORTH Bourtange
and the old masters art are just waiting to be enjoyed.
hunebedden
touches on the SEA Weerribben Theres no better place to start than Amsterdam. Its centre is full to
National
countrys less- Park Emmen overflowing with brown cafs (p127), but if you want to get to the source of
visited towns, the matter, the Heineken Experience (p107) is the place to head. If this isnt
to your taste, try Brouwerij t IJ (p129), a small brewery with potent beers.
cities and natural Zwolle With over 250 coffeeshops (p129), the capital offers ample opportunity to
attractions. partake in a spliff or two, and no one, but no one (unless they suffer from
Deventer erythrophobia) should miss a stroll through Amsterdams legendary Red
Hoge Veluwe Light District (p85). Clubs (p129) abound, as do
National Park
GERMANY
museums devoted to the likes of Van Gogh and
Biesbosch
National Rembrandt.
Park
Rotterdams clubbing scene (p217) is world- Bierbrouwerij
Groningen

renowned, as are its summer festivals (p214), and

Den
Bosch Groningens nightlife (p249), fuelled by thousands Alkmaar's
Breda Beer Museum
of students, is a lively hedonistic mix.
Beer is a particular Dutch delight. Maastricht AMSTERDAM
(p278), with its close proximity to Belgium and
Rotterdam
Trappist breweries, should be the first stop for Nijemgen's
De Hemel
any beer connoisseur, while the best of the Low
Countries amber brew can be sampled at Alk-
BELGIUM maars Nationaal Biermuseum (p160). Small, local
breweries, like Texels Bierbrouwerij (p169) and Maastricht
Nijmegens De Hemel (p266), dot the country.
 22 www.lonelyplanet.com S N A P S H OT 23

of heat waves) mean not only that quite a few peat-based dykes dry out but

Snapshot also that some of the countrys annual events are severely affected: two heat-
related deaths at Nijmegens Internationale Wandelvierdaagse (p265) forced
the races cancellation, something previously accomplished only by a world
The Netherlands is in a state of flux. Recent events have challenged Dutch war. The effects of global warming are not limited to rising temperatures,
society and its axiom of live and let live, and the Dutch talent for tolerance however: the spring of 2005 saw record snowfalls and freezing temperatures
has been attacked on a number of fronts. Parties on both sides of the politi- (minus 21C in Marknesse, Flevoland).
cal partition are calling for change, and at present it seems as though the H5N1 or its more comprehensible moniker, bird flu has raised fears in
pendulum of power is swinging to the right. the Netherlands, one of the worlds biggest meat exporters. In 2005 there were
The hottest topic on many Dutch lips today is the countrys new immi- outbreaks of the deadly virus in a number of European countries, causing
grants, or how to limit their numbers. It seems the assassinations of Theo sweeping panic in the rest. The Dutch government took pre-emptive steps
van Gogh and Pim Fortuyn (p32) were the straws that broke the camels to stop the spread of the virus by vaccinating chickens and confining them
back; once taboo, public discussions about quotas, dress codes and language indoors (the outdoor ban was later lifted), a move at odds with the EUs
requirements are now commonplace. Would-be immigrants must currently normal policy of culling.
sit an entrance exam, in Dutch, covering the language and culture of the Despite the desire to keep the social peace, the government has made
Netherlands, and watch a video which includes images of two men kissing moves to ban smoking in public places. Initially the service industries were
and a topless woman bather. allowed to draw up their own plans to protect employees and the public
FAST FACTS The public debacle over Ayaan Hirsi Alis right to Dutch nationality hasnt at large from second-hand smoke, but legal action has been threatened
Population: 16.3 million
helped matters either. The Somalian-born former MP and outspoken critic by a government tired of feet-dragging in the hotel and catering sector.
of Islam (she co-wrote the short film Submission: Part 1 with Theo van Gogh Coffeeshops are up in arms; as Arjan Roskam, chairman of the Union for
Land in tulip bulbs: and received death threats for her efforts) revealed that she had used a false Cannabis Retailers, put it, The whole point of going to a coffeeshop is to
110 sq km name and date of birth on her naturalisation decree; the Minister for Im- smoke. All establishments are required to have a non-smoking section by
Per capita GDP: 26,500 migration and Integration, Rita Verdonk (known as Iron Rita), ruled that 1 January 2009.
Unemployment rate: Ali was deemed not to have received Dutch nationality. The subsequent The Netherlands liberal drugs policy continues to be a reliable source of
6.5% (2005) public and political outcry forced Verdonk to reconsider her judgment, but controversy, in particular rankling with France and the USA. The Dutch,
by then the damage was done. Within a matter of weeks the ruling coalition in turn, point to relatively low rates of drug-related crime and argue that
Inflation: collapsed over the issue, a minority government was formed under Prime decriminalisation is the way to go for soft drugs. But the government has
1.7% (2005 average) Minister Jan Peter Balkenende, and early elections were called. At the time of stepped up pressure against trafficking in cannabis, hard drugs and designer
Religion: Catholic 31%, research, Ali was set to move to the US sometime in September 2006 and the drugs (the Netherlands is a major producer of ecstasy), and the Amsterdam
Protestant 21%, Muslim next round of national elections were to be held on 22 November 2006. council has introduced a temporary ban on cannabis use in the Baarsjes
5.5%, other 1.5%, Without question, the Netherlands is still one of the most liberal coun- district of the city, citing problems of public disturbances by youths.
not religious 41% tries in the world; a quick run-through of its policies on recreational drugs, Dutch national pride is muted except on the soccer field. The national
Number of mobile euthanasia, same-sex marriage and prostitution is proof alone. However, team habitually participates in European championships and World Cups,
phones: 14.8 million recent court approval of a political paedophilia party is pushing things too and the country rallies behind them with unquestioning support. Otherwise,
far. The campaign manifesto of the Brotherly Love, Freedom and Diversity the Dutch love to downplay their place in the world, and often prefer to speak
Waterways: 5046km party (PNVD) includes a call for a reduction in the age of consent from 16 English with foreign visitors.
(navigable for ships over to 12 (and eventually doing away with it altogether), and the legalisation of
50 tons) child pornography and sex with animals. The courts decision has caused
Height of the average widespread disapproval throughout the country.
male: 185.5cm (6ft 1 in) Normally avid supporters of the European Union (EU), the Dutch re-
Number of windmills: soundingly rejected the EU constitution in a referendum held in 2006 (almost
1180 62% voted no), the first national referendum in 200 years. Dissatisfaction
with recent governments and the economies of key European players, along
with concerns over immigration, loss of national identity and EU expansion
were all cited as reasons for the rejection.
The Dutch economy is one of the most open and outward looking in the
world, and the Netherlands has an enviable track record for such a small
country. It experienced a rough patch from 2001 to 2005, however, during
which time parliament made deep cuts in the welfare state the generous
health care system went under the knife, and early retirement is no longer
a soft option. But, given the fact that the Dutch are some of the sharpest
traders on the planet, its no surprise to learn that the economy is presently
rebounding.
Global warming (p52) is a matter of concern for the Dutch populace.
Unseasonably high temperatures in summer (and an increasing number
 Lonely Planet Publications
10 www.lonelyplanet.com 11

The Authors
NEAL BEDFORD Coordinating Author, Front chapters,
Noord Holland & Flevoland, Friesland,
Groningen & Drenthe, Directory, Transport
Neals first memory of the Netherlands occurred early in childhood a post-
card, sent by his fathers former work colleague on his return to his native
land, showed a middle-aged Dutchman in solid yellow shoes with no laces
plugging a leaking dyke with his butt. Neal found the Dutch not only instantly
funny but also highly practical. Since then, hes left his homeland of New
Zealand and settled in Europe, which has offered ample opportunity to travel
to the Netherlands in search of bottom-plugged dykes. Hes yet to find one,
but hopes to on his future jaunts to this wonderful country.

Neals Favourite Trip

Its a given but still has to be said Amsterdam (p78) is the
Ameland
place to begin any trip to the Netherlands. After a few days Vlieland
Groningen
wallowing in culture and hedonism, Id slowly make my way Texel

north through Edam (p157) and on to Alkmaar (p159; timing

it just right for the cheese market), before settling into a bit Alkmaar
Edam
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
of island hopping first Texel (p167), then Vlieland (p239) and Amsterdam
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
on to Ameland (p241). While Im up north, it would be rude Den Haag

not to stop into Groningen (p245) to enjoy all the city has to
Rotterdam only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
offer, but then the south would beckon. First Den Haag (p195), Delta
Project
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
then Rotterdam (p208), and on to Middelburg and the Delta the above - Do the right thing with our content.
Project (p228), after which Id end my travels in Maastricht Maastricht
(p278) with my feet up, enjoying a fine Trappist beer and a
bit of gezelligheid.

SIMON SELLARS Amsterdam, Utrecht, Zuid Holland & Zeeland,

Overijssel & Gelderland, Noord Brabant & Limburg
A few years ago, when Simon worked in London, he took the opportunity to
visit the Netherlands on a number of occasions, for hes been fascinated by
the country ever since he was old enough to fashion his own Dutch oven. He
cant forgive the Dutch for killing off the dodo, although the phenomenon
of Johan Cruyff and Total Football went some way to making up for it.
Simon wishes Paul Verhoeven would stop mucking about and make another
dystopian sci-fi blockbuster, preferably starring Rutger Hauer.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They dont research using just the internet or phone, and they dont take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafs, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.
 Lonely Planet Publications
24 www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y T h e Fi g h t f o r I n d e p e n d e n c e 25

become the ecclesiastical centre of the Low Countries, whereas Amsterdam

History was but a modest trading post.

The 15th century ushered in great prosperity for the Low Countries. The
Dutch became adept at shipbuilding in support of the Hanseatic trade, and
For centuries the rich and turbulent history of the Netherlands, complete merchants thrived by selling luxury items such as tapestries, fashionable
with wave after wave of invaders and invading waves, was inseparable from clothing and paintings but also more mundane commodities such as
that of neighbouring Belgium and Luxembourg. This trio was long known as salted herring and beer.
the Low Countries, and the founding of the modern Netherlands only took With their wealth tapped through taxes, the Low Countries were naturally
place in 1579, while its current borders were set as late as 1830. coveted by a succession of rulers. In 1482 Mary of Burgundy, Philips grand-
daughter, passed on the Low Countries to her son, Philip the Fair.
The site www.history
FOREIGN DOMINATION The family intrigues that followed are worthy of a costume drama: Philip
-netherlands.nl gives a
The territory that became the Netherlands has been inhabited since prehis- married Joanna, the daughter of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain;
detailed history of the
toric times; hunebedden (p253) stone structures used as burial mounds Philip then bequeathed the Low Countries to his son Charles, now a member
Netherlands in a number
are clear evidence of this. The first invaders to take note of the locals were of the powerful Habsburg dynasty, in 1530. Charles V was crowned Holy
of languages.
the Romans, who, under Julius Caesar, conquered a wide region along the Roman Emperor, making him monarch of most of Europe.
Rijn (Rhine) and its tributaries by 59 BC. Fiercely independent by nature, Fortunately, the rule of Charles V did not stand in the way of the Low
Celtic and Germanic tribes initially bowed to Caesars rule. Over the next Countries growing wealth. But this all changed in 1555, when Charles
four centuries the Romans built advanced towns, farms and the straight roads handed over Spain and the Low Countries to his son, Philip II.
that still shape the landscape today. Utrecht became a main outpost of the
empire, but the soggy territory of Friesland was left to its own devices, and THE FIGHT FOR INDEPENDENCE
its early settlers built homes on mounds of mud (called terpen) to escape the Philip II of Spain was a staunch Catholic and suffered under a slight case
frequent floods; Hogebeintum (p235) has a surviving example. of theomania. Conflict with the Low Countries was then inevitable; the Prot-
Holland is a popular
As Roman power began to fade, the Franks, an aggressive German tribe estant reformation had spread throughout the colony, fuelled by the ideas
term for the Netherlands,
to the east, began to muscle in. By the end of the 8th century, the Franks had of Erasmus and the actions of Martin Luther. However, before the Spanish
yet in reality it refers to
completed their conquest of the Low Countries and began converting the arrived the religious landscape of the Low Countries was quite diverse: Lu-
the combined provinces
local populace to Christianity, using force whenever necessary. Charlemagne, therans wielded great influence, but smaller churches had their places too.
of Noord (North) and Zuid
the first in a long line of Holy Roman emperors, was by far the most suc- For instance, the Anabaptists were polygamists and communists, and nudity
(South) Holland.
cessful Frankish king. He built a palace at Nijmegen (p263), but the empire was promoted as a means of equality among their masses (in the warmer
fell apart after his death in 814. seasons). In the end it was Calvinism that emerged in the Low Countries as
For the next 200 years Vikings sailed up Dutch rivers to loot and pillage. the main challenger to the Roman Catholic Church, and to Philips rule.
Local rulers developed their own fortified towns and made up their own A big believer in the Inquisition, Philip went after the Protestants with
government and laws even though, strictly speaking, they answered to a vengeance. Matters came to a head in 1566 when the puritanical Calvin-
the Pope in Rome. ists went on a rampage, destroying the art and religious icons of Catholic
Over time local lords, who were nominally bound to a German king, churches in many parts of the Netherlands. Evidence of this is still readily
began to gain power. When one lord struggled with another for territory, apparent in the barren interiors of Dutch churches today.
invariably their townsfolk would provide support, but only in return for This sent Philip into action. The Duke of Alba was chosen to lead a 10,000-
various freedoms. By the beginning of the 12th century these relationships strong army to the Netherlands in 1568 to quell the unruly serfs; as the Duke
were laid down in charters documents that not only spelt out the lords wasnt one to take prisoners, his forces slaughtered thousands, and so began
power but also detailed other bureaucratic matters such as taxation. Around the Dutch war of independence, which lasted 80 years. The Dutch National
the same time, Dutch towns with sea access, such as Deventer and Zwolle, The Prince van Oranje, Willem the Silent (thus named for his refusal Archive (www.nationaal
joined the Hanseatic League (a group of powerful trading cities in present- to argue over religious issues), was one of the few nobles not to side with archief.nl) has almost
day Germany, including Hamburg and Rostock). These federal towns grew Philip, and he led the Dutch revolt against Spanish rule. Willem, who had a thousand years of
wealthy through the leagues single-minded development of laws, regulations been Philips lieutenant in Holland, Zeeland and Utrecht, began to rely on historical documents,
and other policies that promoted trade. the Dutch Calvinists for his chief support. He championed the principle of maps, drawings and
Meanwhile the many little lords met their match in the dukes of Burgundy, toleration and this philosophy became part of the foundation of an inde- photos. Access to the
who gradually took over the Low Countries. Duke Philip the Good, who ruled pendent Dutch state. The rebels cause, however, was hampered by lack of site is free.
from 1419 to 1467, showed the towns of the Low Countries who was boss money and patchy support from towns.
by essentially telling them to stuff their charters. Although this limited the Changing tack in 1572, Willem hired a bunch of English pirates to fight
towns freedom, it also brought to the region a degree of stability that had for his cause. Known as the Watergeuzen (Sea Beggars), they sailed up the
been missing during the era of squabbling lords. By this time Utrecht had myriad Dutch rivers and seized town after town from the surprised and

TIMELINE 59 BC 1275 1579 Late 16th century

Romans conquer the Netherlands Credited as the founding of Amsterdam United Provinces of the Netherlands Golden Age begins
 26 H I S T O R Y T h e U n i o n o f U t re c h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y T h e G o l d e n Ag e 27

land-bound Spanish forces. The strategy worked like a charm, and by the
end of the year Willem controlled every city except Amsterdam. TULIPMANIA
The Spanish responded by sacking the Duke of Alba and sending in a A bursting economic bubble is not a modern phenomenon. The first occurred in 163637 in the
new commander, Alessandro Farnese, who was a more able leader. Much Netherlands, and over a flower everyone associates with the Dutch the tulip.
of the 1570s saw a constant shift of power as one side or the other gained Tulips originated as wild flowers in Central Asia. They were first cultivated by the Turks (tulip
temporary supremacy. is Turkish for turban) and made their way to Europe via Vienna in the mid-1500s. By the begin-
ning of the 17th century Holland was enthralled by the beautiful flower, which flourished in the
THE UNION OF UTRECHT countrys cool climate and fertile delta soil.
The Low Countries split for good in 1579 when the more Protestant and It was not long before trading in tulips started to get out of hand. In late 1636 a tulip-trading
rebellious provinces in the north formed the Union of Utrecht. This explicitly mania swept the Netherlands; speculative buying and selling made some individual bulbs more
Thomas C Grattans anti-Spanish alliance became known as the United Provinces, the basis for the expensive than an Amsterdam house, and even ordinary people sank their lifes savings into a few
recently updated Holland: Netherlands as we know it today. The southern regions of the Low Countries bulbs. Speculators fell over themselves to out-bid each other in taverns. At the height of Tulipmania,
The History of the Nether- had always remained Catholic and were much more open to compromise in early 1637, a single bulb of the legendary Semper augustus fetched more than 10 years worth
lands takes a detailed with Spain. They eventually became Belgium. of the average workers wages. An English botanist bisected one of his hosts bulbs and landed in
if somewhat academic Although the United Provinces had declared their independence from jail until he could raise thousands of florins in compensation.
look at the past of the Spain, the war dragged on. In 1584 they suffered a major blow when their The bonanza couldnt last. When some bulbs failed to fetch their expected prices in Haarlem in
Dutch, from the invasion leader, Willem the Silent, was assassinated in Delft. The Dutch once again February 1637, the bottom fell out of the market. Within a matter of weeks a wave of bankrupt-
of the Romans to the turned to the English for help, and Elizabeth I lent assistance, but it was the cies swept the land, hitting wealthy merchants as well as simple folk. Speculators were stuck with
beginning of the 20th English victory over the Armada in 1588 that proved the most beneficial. In unsold bulbs, or bulbs theyd reserved but hadnt yet paid for (the concept of financial options,
century. a series of brilliant military campaigns, the Dutch drove the Spanish out of incidentally, was invented during Tulipmania). The government refused to get involved with a
the United Provinces by the turn of the 17th century. Trouble with Spain pursuit they regarded as gambling.
was far from over, however, and fighting resumed as part of the larger Thirty The speculative froth is gone, but passion for the tulip endures. It remains a relatively expensive
Years War throughout Europe. In 1648 the Treaty of Westphalia, which flower, and cool-headed growers have perfected their craft. To this day the Dutch are the world
ended the Thirty Years War, included the proviso that Spain recognise the leaders in tulip cultivation and supply most of the bulbs exported to Europe and North America.
independence of the United Provinces, ending the 80-year conflict between
the Netherlands and Spain.
Steen, Frans Hals and Rembrandt (see p38). The sciences were not left out:
The Embarrassment of THE GOLDEN AGE Dutch physicist and astronomer Christiaan Huygens discovered Saturns
Riches by Simon Schama Throughout the turmoil of the 15th and 16th centuries, Hollands merchant rings and invented the pendulum clock; celebrated philosopher Benedict de
is a thoughtful look at cities (particularly Amsterdam) had managed to keep trading alive; their skill Spinoza wrote a brilliant thesis saying that the universe was identical with
the tensions generated at business and sailing was so great that, even at the peak of the rebellion, God; and Frenchman Ren Descartes, known for his philosophy, I think,
between vast wealth the Spanish had no alternative but to use Dutch boats for transporting their therefore I am, found intellectual freedom in the Netherlands and stayed
and Calvinist sobriety grain. With the arrival of peace, however, the cities began to boom. This for two decades.
in the Golden Age, with era of great economic prosperity and cultural fruition came to be known The Union of Utrechts promise of religious tolerance led to a surprising
implications for modern as the Golden Age. amount of religious diversity that was rare in Europe at the time. Calvinism
society. The Dutch soon began to expand their horizons, and the merchant fleet was the official religion of the government, but various other Protestants,
known as the Dutch East India Company was formed in 1602. It quickly Jews and Catholics were allowed to practise their faith. However, in a legacy
monopolised key shipping and trade routes east of Africas Cape of Good of the troubles with Spain, Catholics had to worship in private, which led to
Hope and west of the Strait of Magellan, making it the largest trading com- the creation of clandestine churches. Many of these unusual buildings have
pany of the 17th century. It became almost as powerful as a sovereign state, survived to the present day.
The Dutch bought (a with the ability to raise its own armed forces and establish colonies. Politically, however, the young Dutch Republic was at an all-time low.
concept foreign to Its sister, the Dutch West India Company, traded with Africa and the The House of Oranje-Nassau fought the republicans for control of the
North American tribes Americas and was at the very centre of the American slave trade. Seamen country; while the house wanted to centralise power with the Prince van
at the time) the island working for both companies discovered (in a very Western sense of the Oranje as stadhouder (chief magistrate), the republicans wanted the cities
of Manhattan from the word) or conquered lands including Tasmania, New Zealand, Malaysia, Sri and provinces to run their own affairs. Prince Willem II won the dispute but
Lenape in 1626 for the Lanka and Mauritius. English explorer Henry Hudson landed on the island died suddenly three months later, one week before his son was born. Dutch
equivalent of US$24 of Manhattan in 1609 as he searched for the Northwest Passage, and Dutch regional leaders exploited this power vacuum by abolishing the stadhouder,
worth of beads. settlers named it New Amsterdam. and authority was decentralised.
Culturally the United Provinces flourished in the Golden Age. The wealth International conflict was never very far away. In 1652 the United Prov-
of the merchant class supported scores of artists, including Jan Vermeer, Jan inces went to war with their old friend England, mainly over the increasing

1602 163637 1700 1795

Dutch East India Company created Tulipmania grips the country End of Golden Age French invade Holland
 28 H I S T O R Y D u t c h D e c l i n e & F re n c h R u l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY WWII 29

strength of the Dutch merchant fleet. Both countries entered a hotchpotch of was doomed from the start. The partners had little in common, including
alliances with Spain, France and Sweden in an effort to gain the upper hand. their dominant religions (Calvinist and Catholic), languages (Dutch and
During one round of treaties the Dutch agreed to give New Amsterdam to French) and favoured way of making money (trade and manufacturing).
the English (who promptly renamed it New York) in return for Surinam Matters werent helped by Willem, who generally sided with his fellow
in South America. In 1672 the French army marched into the Netherlands northerners.
and, as the Dutch had devoted most of their resources to the navy, found In 1830 the southern states revolted, and nine years later Willem was
little resistance on land. The country appealed to the House of Oranje, which forced to let the south go. In a nice historical twist, Willem abdicated one
appointed Willem III as general of the Dutch forces. year later so that he could marry surprise! a Belgian Catholic. Its not
In a single stroke Willem improved relations with the English by marrying known if he ever spoke French at home.
Tulipomania: The Story of his cousin Mary, daughter of the English king James II. Perhaps sensing he His son, King Willem II, granted a new and more liberal constitution to
the Worlds Most Coveted was no longer welcome in England his opponents feared that he would the people of the Netherlands in 1848. This included a number of democratic
Flower by Mike Dash is restore the Roman Catholic Church there James fled to France, and Willem ideals and even made the monarchy the servant of the elected government.
an engaging look at the and Mary were named king and queen of England in 1689. Using his strong This document has remained the foundation of the Dutch government
bizarre bulb fever that diplomatic skills, Willem created the Grand Alliance that joined England, until the present day. Its role on the world stage long over, the Netherlands
swept the nation in the the United Provinces, Spain, Sweden and several German states to fight the played only a small part in European affairs and concentrated on liberalism
17th century. expansionist ambitions of Frances Louis XIV. at home.
The Grand Alliance defeated the French several times. In 1697 Louis XIV During WWI the Netherlands remained neutral, although its shipping
agreed to give up most of the territory France had conquered. As if to drive industry was damaged by both the Allies and the Germans. It did however
the point home, the Dutch again joined the English to fight the French in the gain economic and financial ground by trading with both sides.
War of the Spanish Succession, ending with the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Following WWI the country, like some of its European counterparts,
embarked on innovative social programmes that targeted poverty, the A helpful site for those
DUTCH DECLINE & FRENCH RULE rights of women and children, and education. Industrially, the coal mines tracing their Dutch herit-
Financially weakened by the ongoing wars with France, the United Provinces of south Limburg were exploited to great success, Rotterdam became one age is www.godutch
began to spiral downwards. Its maritime fleet, left battered and bleeding from of Europes most important ports and the scheme to reclaim the Zuiderzee .com.
the wars, lost valuable trading routes to the British, while domestically the was launched in 1932.
population was decreasing. The dykes were also in a sorry state there was
little money to repair them, and widespread floods swept across the country. WWII
Merchants were more likely to spend their profits on luxuries than sensible The Dutch tried to remain neutral during WWII, but in May 1940 the
investments in their businesses, which in turn contributed to the countrys Germans invaded anyway. The advancing Nazis levelled much of Rotterdam
overall economic decline. in a raid designed to force the Dutch to surrender; they obliged, and the
Politically, the United Provinces were as unstable as the dykes. A series countrys tiny army crumbled quickly.
of struggles between the House of Oranje and its democratic opponents led Queen Wilhelmina issued a proclamation of flaming protest to the The official website of
to a civil war in 1785; the dispute was settled three years later when the stad- nation and escaped with her family to England. The plucky monarch, who the Dutch royal family,
houders agreed to limit their own powers. When the French revolutionary had been key in maintaining Dutch neutrality in WWI, now found herself in www.koninklijkhuis.nl
forces invaded in 1795, with the aid of those eager for constitutional reform a much different situation and made encouraging broadcasts to her subjects features mini-biographies
the United Provinces collapsed and became the Batavian Republic. It survived back home via the BBC and Radio Orange. The Germans put Dutch industry and virtual tours of the
only until 1806, when Napoleon renamed it the Kingdom of Holland and and farms to work for war purposes and there was much deprivation. Dutch palaces.
installed his brother Louis Bonaparte as king. resistance was primarily passive and only gained any kind of momentum
Louis proved to be not quite the kind of king Napoleon would have liked. when thousands of Dutch men were taken to Germany and forced to work
He actually seemed to like his subjects and often favoured them over France; in Nazi factories. A far worse fate awaited the countrys Jews (p30).
soon his position became untenable and in 1810 Napoleon forced Louis out The Winter of Hunger of 194445 was a desperate time in the Nether-
of office. With Napoleons attention diverted in Russia, though, the House of lands. The British-led Operation Market Garden (p267) had been a huge
Oranje supporters invited Prince Willem VI back. He landed at Scheveningen disaster and the Allies abandoned all efforts to liberate the Dutch. The
in 1813 and was named prince sovereign of the Netherlands; the following Germans stripped the country of much of its food and wealth, and mass star-
year he was crowned King Willem I. vation ensued. Many people were reduced to eating tulip bulbs for their daily
subsistence. Canadian troops finally liberated the country in May 1945.
INDEPENDENT KINGDOM & WWI
With the defeat of Napoleon, Europe celebrated with the Congress of Vienna POSTWAR RECONSTRUCTION
in 1815. It was here that the Kingdom of the Netherlands the Netherlands The Netherlands faced major concerns in the postwar years both at home and
in the north and Belgium in the south was formed. However, the marriage abroad. Domestically, it had to restore its money-making businesses while

1814 1830 1932 1940

Willem I crowned as king Belgium declares independence Zuiderzee reclamation begins Germany invades the Netherlands
30 HISTORY Postwar Reconstruction www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY Postwar Reconstruction 31

in Amsterdam, and homeless groups took over empty buildings many of

DUTCH JEWS which had once belonged to Jews and refused to leave.
The tale of Jews in Europe is often one of repression, persecution and downright hatred. In the Tolerance toward drugs and homosexuals also emerged at the time. The
Netherlands, it is more a tale of acceptance and prosperity, until the coming of the Nazis. countrys drug policy grew out of practical considerations, when a flood of
Amsterdam is the focus of Jewish history in the Netherlands, and Jews played a key role in young people populated Amsterdam and made the policing of drug laws
the citys development over the centuries. The first documented evidence of a Jewish presence impracticable (see p293 for the current drug policy). Official government
in the city dates back to the 12th century, but numbers began to swell with the expulsion of policy became supportive of homosexuals, who are able to live openly in
Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal in the 1580s. Dutch cities and, since 2001, legally marry.
As was the case in much of Europe, guilds barred the newcomers from most trades. Some of Queen Beatrix ascended the throne in 1980 after her mother, Juliana,
the Sephardim were diamond cutters, however, for whom there was no guild. Others introduced abdicated. Beatrix hasnt indicated how long she will remain in the job, but
printing and tobacco processing or worked as street retailers, bankers and doctors. The majority in all likelihood she will pass the reins to her son, Prince Willem-Alexander,
eked out a living as labourers and small-time traders on the margins of society. Still, they werent within the next decade.
confined to a ghetto and, with some restrictions, could buy property and exercise their religion All governments since 1945 have been coalitions, with parties differ-
freedoms unheard of elsewhere in Europe. ing mainly over economic policies. However, coalitions shift constantly
The 17th century saw another influx of Jewish refugees, this time Ashkenazim fleeing pogroms based on the political climate and in recent years there have been winds of
in Central and Eastern Europe. The two groups didnt always get on well and separate synagogues change. The most recent election, in January 2003, saw the CDA (Christian
were established, helping Amsterdam to become one of Europes major Jewish centres. Democratic Appeal) return as the largest party, with the boyish Jan Peter
The guilds and all restrictions on Jews were abolished during the French occupation, and the Balkenende as Prime Minister in a shaky coalition with the VVD liberals
Jewish community thrived in the 19th century. Poverty was still considerable, but the economic, and D66 democrats. The shakes became major tremors in June 2006 due to
social and political emancipation of the Jews helped their middle class move up in society. disagreements over immigration policy, and the fragile coalition collapsed
All this came to an end with the German occupation of the Netherlands. The Nazis brought when D66 withdrew; Balkenende resigned soon afterwards but formed a
about the almost complete annihilation of the Dutch Jewish community. Before WWII the Neth- minority government to rule until the next early election, at the time of
erlands counted 140,000 Jews, of whom about two-thirds lived in Amsterdam. Less than 25,000 research set for 22 November 2006.
survived the war, and Amsterdams Jewish quarter was left a ghost town. Many homes stood
derelict until their demolition in the 1970s, and only a handful of synagogues throughout the
country are once again operating as houses of worship. THE PROVOCATIVE PROVOS
Estimates put the current Jewish population of the Netherlands at anywhere between 32,000 The 1960s were a breeding ground for discontent and anti-establishment activity, and in the
and 45,000. Their history is told in the Nationaal Oorlogs- en Verzetmuseum (National War and Netherlands this underground movement led to the formation of the Provos. This small group
Resistance Museum; p284) in Overloon, Limburg, and in Amsterdams Joods Historisch Museum of anarchic individuals staged street happenings or creative, playful provocations (hence the
(Jewish Historical Museum; p99). name) around the Lieverdje (Little Darling) on Amsterdams Spui (p97).
In 1962 an Amsterdam window cleaner and self-professed sorcerer, Robert Jasper Grootveld,
began to deface cigarette billboards with a huge letter K for kanker (cancer) to expose the role
rebuilding the battered infrastructure, which it did very well; trade took off of advertising in addictive consumerism. Dressed as a medicine man, he held get-togethers in his
once again, new wealth followed the discovery of large natural gas fields in garage and chanted mantras against cigarette smoking (but under the influence of pot).
the North Sea off the Dutch coast, and Dutch farmers became some of the This attracted even more bizarre characters. Poet Johnny the Selfkicker bombarded his audi-
most productive in Europe. ence with frenzied, stream-of-consciousness recitals. Bart Huges drilled a hole in his forehead
Overseas, the colonies began to clamour for independence. The Dutch a so-called third eye to relieve pressure on the brain and expand his consciousness.
East Indies declared itself independent in 1945, and after four years of bitter The group gained international notoriety in March 1966 with its protests at the marriage of
fighting and negotiations the independence of Indonesia was recognised at Princess (now Queen) Beatrix to ex-Nazi Claus von Amsberg. Protestors jeered the wedding couple
the end of 1949. Surinam also became independent in 1975. The Kingdom as their procession rolled through Amsterdam, and bystanders chanted bring my bicycle back
of the Netherlands will shrink even further come July 2007, with the end of a reference to the many bikes commandeered by the retreating German soldiers in 1945. This
the Netherlands Antilles as it currently stands. Curaao and Sint Maarten was broadcast live to the world on TV.
will be granted status aparte (home rule), Bonaire and Saba will remain In the same year the Provos gained enough support to win a seat on Amsterdams city coun-
part of the kingdom, and Sint Eustatius (Statia) was in two minds at the cil. The group began developing White Plans, pro-environment schemes including the famous
time of writing. White Bicycle Plan to ease traffic congestion with a fleet of free white bicycles. The movement
The same social upheavals that swept the world in the 1960s were also dissolved in the 1970s, but it left a lasting legacy: the squatters movement, which encouraged
felt in the Netherlands. Students, labour groups, hippies and more took to the poor to occupy uninhabited buildings, in turn forced the government to adopt measures to
the streets in protest. Among the more colourful were a group that came to help underprivileged tenants.
be known as the Provos (opposite). A huge squatters movement sprung up

194445 1958 1975 1980

Winter of Hunger Delta Project launched following the Great Floods of The Netherlands decriminalises marijuana Queen Beatrix ascends throne
Zeeland in 1953
32 HISTORY Postwar Reconstruction www.lonelyplanet.com

MORE THAN TRAGEDIES

The Netherlands has for decades been seen as a land of acceptance, tolerance and liberalism, but
the assassination of two public lights Theo van Gogh and Pim Fortuyn rocked the countrys
foundations and caused locals, and the ever-present international community, to take a closer
look at the fabric of Dutch society.
Pim Fortuyn (pronounced fore-town) spent only five months at the head of the LPF (Lijst Pim
Fortuyn) party in 2002, but his legacy may last for years to come. His campaign for parliament
is best remembered for his declaration that the Netherlands was full and that the government
should put the needs of mainstream Dutch people first.
Fortuyn called for the end of backroom politics and for a government led by business people
and visionaries. His dynamism instantly struck a chord in Dutch society, and thousands of white
low-income earners in Rotterdam and other cities rallied round the gay, dandyish Pim. For a few
fleeting months he was fted as the next prime minister, even though his opponents accused
him of pursuing right-wing, racist policies.
Just days before the general election in May 2002 Fortuyn was assassinated by a white animal-
rights activist in Hilversum. Riots erupted in front of parliament, and for an instant the threat
of anarchy hung in the air.
The LPF won a number of seats in the election and was included in the next coalition, but
without a strong leader it soon lost public support and in the 2003 general election voters all
but deserted the party.
Theo van Gogh, a well-known film maker and personality, was often in the limelight for his
controversial statements and fine films. His 11-minute documentary Submission Part 1, which
featured four short stories centred on Koranic verses that could be interpreted as justifying
violence against women, was a collaborative effort with Ayaan Hirsi Ali, a Muslim-born woman,
outspoken critic of Islamic law, Somalian immigrant and member of parliament.
The documentary aired in 2004 on national television, and in November of the same year Van
Gogh was shot and his throat cut when he was attacked while cycling through Amsterdam in
rush hour. A letter threatening the nation and its politicians (and naming Hirsi Ali) was pinned to
his chest with a knife. The killer, a 27-year-old of Dutch and Moroccan descent, was apprehended
close to the scene and later sentenced to life imprisonment. The fact that the killer was born
and raised in Amsterdam, and professed that he would do the same again if given the chance,
threw a nation already in shock.
The Netherlands now faces questions on how best to move forward. Politicians have made the
first move, passing laws which require immigrants to know something about Dutch culture, and
imposing an exam on prospective immigrants covering Dutch language and culture. However,
its worth remembering that, while the country may currently be rethinking its attitude towards
foreigners, Dutch open-mindedness towards newcomers goes back centuries.

Tension between different colours and creeds has never been a problem
in the Netherlands, until recently. The murders of Theo van Gogh and
Pim Fortuyn have stirred emotions and struck fear into the hearts of some
(see above). Also, the Dutch usually enthusiastic supporters of the EU
resoundingly rejected the EU constitution in a June 2005 referendum. Several
reasons for the result were noted, including fears of increased immigration
and loss of self-rule to the dominant parties in the EU.
For more on current history, see p22.

2002 2004
Politician Pim Fortuyn is shot dead Activist film-maker Theo van Gogh is assassinated
 33

The Culture
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
In general, the Dutch have a sympathetic psyche. They are passionately liberal
and believe people should be free to do whatever they want as long as it
doesnt inconvenience others. The most outrageous conduct in public might
go without comment; Act normal, thats crazy enough is a common Dutch
saying. This high level of tolerance has, however, been put under considerable
pressure as a result of two recent high-profile murders (see opposite).
Calvinist traditions have had an influence on the Dutch character, even
among Catholics. The Dutch see themselves as sober, hard-working, level-
headed and to a certain extent unable to enjoy themselves without feeling
guilty all traits blamed on their Calvinist background. There may be no trace
of this whatsoever in crowded pubs, which can seem downright hedonistic.
The Dutch also have a tendency to wag the finger in disapproval, which goes
against their normally tolerant demeanour.
The country is crowded and Dutch people tend to be reserved with
strangers. They treasure their privacy because it is such a rare commodity.
Still, theyre far from antisocial their ingrained gezelligheid (convivial-
ity) will come out at the drop of a hat. Expect chummy moments at the
supermarket.
The Dutch arent exactly hot-blooded, but given the chance they will speak
their minds and expect to be looked in the eye. This manner may seem blunt
or even arrogant to foreigners, but the impulse comes from the desire to be DOS & DONTS
direct and, wherever possible, honest.
Do give a firm handshake
Subjects such as sex are discussed openly, and you might overhear a
or triple cheek kiss.
pub chat where Jan tells of making whoopee. Dutch parliament even held
a debate on whether to ban a TV show called How to Screw (but it decided Do take a number at the
not to). Prostitution is legal, but promiscuity is the furthest thing from most post office counter.
Dutch minds. Do show up five to 15
Anyone whos worth their weight in bong water knows that you can easily minutes late on social
buy marijuana in the Netherlands. This doesnt mean that every Dutch person occasions.
is a pothead; on the contrary, only about 5% of the population indulges (less Do dress casually unless
than in France, where drug policy is much stricter). Many Dutch people think its an overtly formal
that hanging out in coffeeshops is for slackers and tourists. affair.
Dutch people have a great love of detail. Statistics on the most trivial
subjects make the paper (eg the number of applications for dog licences, Do say goedendag when
incidence of rubbish being put out early), and somewhere down the line it you enter a shop.
feeds mountains of bureaucracy. That said, when the system breaks down Dont smoke dope or
the Dutch arent rigid about the rules and are happy to improvise; perhaps drink on the streets.
this comes from a strong legacy of juggling diverse interests. Dont be late for official
Last but not least, the Dutch are famously thrifty with their money. They appointments.
often dont know themselves what to think of this they laugh at their bottle-
scraping (see p34), while at the same time they dont like being called Dont ask about a
cheap. persons salary.
Dont forget someones
LIFESTYLE birthday.
Many Dutch live independent, busy lives, divided into strict schedules.
Notice is usually required for everything, including visits to your mother,
and its not done to just pop round anywhere. Socialising is done mainly
in the home, through clubs and in circles of old friends, which can make it
tough for foreigners to break in at first. However, if youre invited to join
a family party, you have crossed a major threshold the Dutch dont invite
 34 T H E C U LT U R E E c o n o m y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E P o p u l a t i o n 35

Dutch business is largely dependent on exports and has been caught in

GOOD TO THE LAST SCRAPE a larger downturn in Europe and the USA. The last five years have seen a
Arguably, no household item represents Dutch thrift better than the flessenlikker (bottle-scraper). slowdown in the economy, which is a marked change from the heady 90s
This miracle tool culminates in a disk on the business end and can tempt the last elusive smears when the Dutch economy was the envy of Europe. While the countrys un-
from a mayonnaise jar or salad-dressing bottle. The flessenlikker is a hit in the Netherlands but employment rate (6.5%) is not the best in Europe, its still lower than those of
The Dutch are the tallest
not, oddly, in its country of origin Norway. its closest neighbours, Germany (11.6%), Belgium (8.4%) and France (10%).
Another item youll find in Dutch supermarkets is the traditional Grolsch beer bottle with the people in the world,
averaging 185.5cm (6ft
resealable ceramic cap. This design was first introduced in the Calvinist north where the steely- POPULATION 1in) for men and 173cm
eyed imbibers considered the contents of a bottle far too much to drink in one sitting. The need to love thy neighbour is especially strong in the Netherlands, where
(5ft 8in) for women.
the population density is the highest in Europe (475 per sq km). Nearly half
of the countrys 16 million-plus residents live in the western hoop around
just anybody into their homes, and chances are youve made a friend for Amsterdam, Den Haag and Rotterdam; the provinces of Drenthe, Overijssel
life. Birthdays are celebrated in a big way, with oodles of cake and cries of and Zeeland in the southwest are sparsely settled, in Dutch terms at least.
well-wishing loud enough to wake the dead. Since 2002, people living in towns and cities outnumbered those living in
The site www.wooden Most Dutch families are small, with two or three children. Rents are high, rural areas.
shoes.nl is devoted to so Junior might live with his family well into his 20s or share an apartment; Over 80% of the population are of Dutch stock; the rest is mainly made
a true pillar of Dutch however, Dutch housing policies have made it easier in recent years to up of people from the former colonies of Indonesia, Surinam and the Dutch
culture, the clog. get a mortgage, and many more yups (yuppies) buy homes than even a Antilles, plus more recent arrivals from Turkey and Morocco.
decade ago.
For virtual entry into the
On average the Dutch are fairly well off they may not flaunt it, but they SPORT world of the Netherlands
now earn more per capita than the Germans. Business is no longer boom- The Netherlands is one sport-happy country. About two-thirds of all Dutch
most famous football
ing, but spending for luxury items, especially furniture and interior dcor, engage in some form of sporty activity, and the average person now spends
team, Ajax, log on to
is jogging along nicely. New cars abound and, apart from the individualists, 20 minutes more a week getting sweaty than in the 1970s. Sport is organ-
www.ajax.nl.
fewer people chug around in old bombs. ised to a fault: about five million people belong to nearly 30,000 clubs and
The gay community is well integrated, and the atmosphere is generally associations in the Netherlands.
relaxed in the big cities. Leading political figures and businessmen are openly
gay or lesbian, and attitudes toward gay or lesbian teachers, clergy, doctors Football (Soccer)
and other professionals, even among the older generation, are good. There Football is the Dutch national game, and theyre pretty good at it. The
has however been a rise in gay-bashing in Amsterdam in recent years, and national football team competes in virtually every World Cup (2006 saw
some homosexuals have moved out of the city, citing concerns over safety. them knocked out in a steamy match against Portugal), and local teams
That old chestnut, the weather, always makes fodder for conversation. such as Ajax, Feyenoord and PSV enjoy international renown. The country
Evening weather reports merit a timeslot of their own, with presenters waxing has produced world-class players, such as Ruud Gullit, Dennis Bergkamp Brilliant Orange: the
lyrical about the size of hailstones or the icicles on Limburg fruit orchards. and the legendary Johan Cruyff. The unique Dutch approach to the game Neurotic Genius of
Rain can last virtually for weeks on end, so when the sun comes out people known as Total Football (in which spatial tactics are analysed and carried Dutch Football by David
hit the streets and sidewalks often just outside their own door. Sitting on out with meticulous precision) fascinates viewers even when the teams Winner has interviews
the front steps with a cup of coffee and a paper is popular on bright summer arent at the top of the league. with players about their
mornings, or even when its just warm and not raining. Passions for football run so high its almost scary. The national football personal experiences, and
association counts a million members, and every weekend teams professional ties in Dutch architecture,
ECONOMY and amateur hit pitches across the country. Many pro clubs play in modern, social structure, sense
The Netherlands has an extraordinarily strong economy for its size. Its a hi-tech stadiums such as the Amsterdam ArenA (p132), assisted by a modern, of humour and even
leader in service industries such as banking, electronics (Philips) and mul- hi-tech police force to combat hooligans. Calvinist history in a
timedia (PolyGram), and it has a highly developed horticultural industry highly readable attempt
dealing in bulbs and cut flowers. Agriculture plays an important role, particu- Cycling to explain the Dutch
larly dairy farming and glasshouse fruits and vegetables. Rotterdam harbour To say the Dutch are avid cyclists is like saying the English dont mind psyche.
handles the largest shipping tonnage in the world, a vital facility in a country football. In sporting terms theres extensive coverage of races in the media,
that provides more than one-third of Europes shipping and trucking. Large and youll see uniformed teams whiz by on practice runs in remote quarters.
supplies of natural gas are tapped and refined on the northeast coasts. Joop Zoetemelk pedalled to victory in the 1980 Tour de France after finish-
ing second six times. The biggest Dutch wheel-off is the Amstel Gold Race
around hilly Limburg in late April, while the five-day Tour de Nederland,
GEZELLIGHEID which speeds through the country at the end of August, attracts thousands
Variously translated as snug, friendly, cosy, informal, companionable and convivial, gezelligheid of fans.
is a particular trait of the Dutch, and its best experienced rather than explained. To do so, grab
a table with friends in the sun outside a caf, hang out for a few hours (preferably the entire Skating
day), and youll soon understand the concept. Ice skating is as Dutch as kroketten (croquettes; p59), and thousands of
people hit the ice when the countrys lakes and ditches freeze over. When the
 36 T H E C U LT U R E M u l t i c u l t u r a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E M e d i a 37

lakes arent frozen, the Netherlands has dozens of ice rinks with Olympic-
sized tracks and areas for hockey and figure skating. The most famous DOUBLE DUTCH
amateur event is Frieslands 220km-long Elfstedentocht (p238). For better or for worse, the Dutch have maintained close ties with the English for centuries, and
The Dutch generally perform well in speed skating at the Winter Olym- this intimate relationship has led to a menagerie of Dutch catchphrases in the English language.
pics; in 2006 all of its nine medals (three of which were gold) were won in Here are some of the more well known:
the discipline. International competitions are held at the Thialf indoor ice Double Dutch nonsense or complete gibberish; a jump-rope game using two skipping
stadium in Heerenveen, Friesland. Amsterdams main ice rink was named ropes. Going double Dutch refers to using two types of contraceptive at the same time.
after Jaap Eden, a legend whose heyday was around 1900.
Dutch courage strength or confidence gained from drinking alcohol.

Swimming Dutch oven large, thick-walled cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid; the act of farting in bed,
Swimming is the most popular sport when it comes to the raw numbers of then trapping your partner and the stench under the covers.
practitioners, edging out even football and cycling. One-third of all Dutch Dutch uncle person who sternly gives (often benevolent) advice.
swim in the pools, lakes or sea, and fancy aquatic complexes have sprung
Dutch wife pillow or frame used for resting the legs on in bed; a prostitute or sex doll.
up in many cities to meet demand. Todays top amphibian is Olympic gold
medallist (in both the 2000 and 2004 Olympics) Inge de Bruin, queen of Going Dutch splitting the bill at a restaurant. Also known as Dutch date or Dutch treat.
freestyle and butterfly. Pass the dutchie not a phrase as such, but the title of a top-10 hit by Musical Youth in 1982.
Dutchie refers to an aluminium cooking pot supposedly manufactured in the Netherlands
Tennis and used throughout the West Indies.
Tennis has been incredibly popular since Richard Krajicek fell to his knees
after clinching the 1996 Wimbledon final. The national tennis club is the
Burgundian duke Philip countrys second largest after football, and many people book time on courts Slovenia, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Estonia, Latvia and Lithua-
the Good most likely in all-weather sports halls. Krajicek has hung up his racket, but theres fresh nia will have unrestricted work access to the Netherlands. How this will
invented the tennis blood on the circuit like Martin Verkerk, a finalist at the 2003 French Open, change the multicultural make-up of the country, only time will tell.
racquet in Holland in and Michaella Krajicek, who at only 16 entered the top 100 on the profes-
around 1500. sional tour in 2005. MEDIA
The Dutch value freedom of expression, and the media have an independ-
Other Sports ent, pluralistic character which is guaranteed by the constitution. News-
Golf is the fastest-growing sport, with about 170,000 members out on the papers, TV and radio are free to decide on the nature and content of their
links every year, and darts has gained an enthusiastic audience following the programmes.
victories of Raymond van Barneveld, four times world champion. Also, the The Netherlands first set up a public broadcasting system in the 1920s.
Netherlands has long had the worlds foremost water polo league. In an approach thats all Dutch, the airwaves are divided up in an attempt
Over the centuries a number of sporting games have evolved in the Nether- to give everyone a say, and broadcasts are still linked to social or reli-
lands, some of them quaint and curious. Kaatsen is ancient Frisian handball gious groups (air time is allocated in line with their membership numbers).
played on a large grass pitch, and its taken deadly seriously in northern towns Currently, the TV market is highly competitive, with public stations facing
such as Franeker. Polstokspringen is rural pole vaulting over the canals, a stiff competition from commercial ones. Unsurprisingly, stations are una- The Radio Netherlands
pastime known in Friesland as fierljeppen. Korfbal, a cross between netball, fraid to push the boundaries of sensibility; youll see sex tips and prostate website, www.radio
volleyball and basketball, enjoys a vibrant scene across the country. cancer examinations (using live models) broadcast late in the evening. The netherlands.nl, has
current reality-TV craze sweeping the globe was born here with Big Brother, articles in English on
MULTICULTURALISM and the likes of Fear Factor, Extreme Makeover and Ready, Steady, Cook all topical social issues.
The Netherlands has a long history of tolerance towards immigration and come from the Netherlands.
a reputation for welcoming immigrants with open arms. The largest wave Practically every Dutch household subscribes to a daily newspaper. Some of
of immigration occurred in the 1960s, when the government recruited the biggest among the 32 daily papers are the Amsterdam-based De Telegraaf,
migrant workers from Turkey and Morocco to bridge a labour gap. In the Het Parool and NRC Handelsblad. Many commuters also pick up copies of
mid-1970s, the granting of independence to the Dutch colony of Surinam the free Metro or Spits from train-station racks. Theres a striking lack of
in South America saw an influx of Surinamese. sensationalist rags like Britains Sun; readers rely more on the pulp society
In the past few years, however, the countrys loose immigration policy mags to catch up on celebrity gossip and the Dutch royal family.
has been called into question. Politically, there has been a significant swing
towards the right and consequently a move towards shutting the door on RELIGION
immigration. The assassinations of Pim Fortuyn and Theo van Gogh caused For centuries, religious preference was split between the two heavyweights of
tensions between the Dutch and Muslim immigrants to rise, and they made Western society, Catholicism and Protestantism, and if you were Dutch you
many Dutch consider whether immigrants were upholding the polder model were one or the other. Today, 41% of the population over the age of 18 claims
or trying to force their native traditions on their newly adopted country. to have no religious affiliation, and the number of former churches that house
While the government seems to be backtracking on its immigration policy offices and art galleries is an obvious sign of todays attitude to religion.
towards developing countries, it is moving ahead with free movement of The old faith may have suffered a heavy blow in recent decades (secularisa-
labour from the new EU countries. As of January 2007, citizens of Poland, tion is on the increase), but its far from dead; 31% of the population follows
 38 T H E C U LT U R E W o m e n i n t h e N e t h e r l a n d s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 39

Catholicism, 20% Protestantism. Religious communities still have their say

in society, and they control much of Sunday morning TV programming. REMBRANDT
Vestiges exist of a religious border between Protestants and Catholics; the area Painting is the grandchild of nature. It is related to God.
north of a line running roughly from the province of Zeeland in the south- Rembrandt van Rijn
west to the province of Groningen is home to the majority of Protestants,
while anywhere to the south is predominantly Catholic. Protestants can be The son of a miller, Rembrandt van Rijn (160669) was the greatest and most versatile of all
divided even further, into the Dutch Reformed Church, various orthodox or 17th-century artists. In some respects Rembrandt was centuries ahead of his time, as shown by
liberal denominations, and the Lutheran church. In general, Dutch Catholics the emotive brushwork of his later works.
disagree with the Pope on church hierarchy, contraception and abortion, Rembrandt grew up in Leiden, where he became good at chiaroscuro, the technique of creat-
and they dont go by the term Roman Catholic. ing depth through light and darkness. In 1631 he moved to Amsterdam to run a painting studio,
However, church and state are quite separate. The church has little or where he and his staff churned out scores of profitable portraits, such as Anatomy Lesson of Dr
no influence on taboo subjects such as same-sex marriage, euthanasia, and Tulp. The studio work was also good for his personal life; he married the studio owners niece,
prescription of cannabis for medical purposes, all of which are legal in the Saskia van Uylenburgh.
Netherlands. After Rembrandt fell out with his boss he bought the house next door, now the Rembrandthuis
The latest religion to have any great impact on Dutch society is Islam. It (p99). Here he set up his own studio, employing staff in a warehouse in Amsterdams Jordaan to
first reached the countrys shores with the arrival of immigrants from the cope with the demand for Rembrandts. His paintings became all the rage and the studio became
Dutch colonies of Indonesia and Surinam in the 1950s, and a second wave the largest in the country, despite his gruff manners and open agnosticism.
broke across the country in the 1960s when immigrant workers were invited As one of the citys main art collectors Rembrandt often sketched and painted for himself.
in from Morocco and Turkey. Today, approximately 5.5% of the population Amsterdams Jewish residents acted as models for dramatic biblical scenes.
classes itself as Muslim. Unfortunately, tension has risen between small fac- Business went downhill after Saskia died in 1642. Rembrandts innovative group portrait, the
tions on both sides of the religious fence, but hopefully the commendable Nightwatch, may have won over the art critics but his subjects had all paid good money and
Dutch trait of tolerance will continue to prevail. some were unhappy to appear in the background. The artists love affairs and lavish lifestyle
marred his reputation, and he eventually went bankrupt. His house and art collection were sold
WOMEN IN THE NETHERLANDS and, with the debtors breathing down his neck, Rembrandt took a modest abode on the Jor-
Dutch women attained the right to vote in 1919, and by the 1970s abortion daans Rozengracht.
on demand was paid for by the national health service. Dutch women are Rembrandt ended life a broken man and passed away a year after the death of his son Titus,
a remarkably confident lot; on a social level, equality is taken for granted largely forgotten by the society he once served. Yet 400 years after his death, the celebrated
and women are almost as likely as men to initiate contact with the opposite painter still manages to make headlines. The Netherlands celebrated his 400th anniversary with
sex. Its still a different story in the workplace fewer women than men are gusto; a plethora of museums held exhibitions celebrating the man, and the likes of Leiden and
employed full time, and fewer still hold positions in senior management. Amsterdam created Rembrandt walking routes.
Both the municipal museum in Faro and an art gallery in Liverpool recently discovered
ARTS fake Rembrandts adorning their walls, and lost works rediscovered in 2006 in Warsaw caused
The arts flourished in the Netherlands long before Rembrandt put brush to a stir in the art world. To view some of Rembrandts most famous works, visit the Rijksmuseum
Take a peek behind the canvas. The country takes great pride in its world-class museums, the variety in Amsterdam.
doors of Amsterdams of classical and innovative music, and the many theatre productions staged
celebrated Rijksmuseum every season. It always seems as though theres room for another arts festival,
at www.rijksmuseum.nl. and the variety boggles the mind. paintings can be seen in the Rijksmuseum (p106) in Amsterdam and the
Frans Hals Museum (p149) in Haarlem.
Painting A discussion of 17th-century art would not be complete without a mention
THE EARLY DAYS of Johannes Vermeer (163275) of Delft. He was the master of genre paint-
The Netherlands has spawned a realm of famous painters, starting with Jan ing, such as View of Delft and historical and biblical scenes, and he recently
van Eyck (13851441), who is generally regarded as the founder of the Flem- gained celluloid fame through Girl with a Pearl Earring, a dramatised account
ish School and credited with perfecting the technique of oil painting. Hot of the painting of his famous work of the same name. Both paintings are on
on his heels was the wonderfully-named Hieronymous Bosch (14151516), display at the Mauritshuis (p197).
whose 15th-century religious works are as fearful as they are fascinating, Jan Steen (162679) skilfully captured the domestic chaos of ordinary
and are charged with fear, distorted creatures and agonised victims. Pieter Dutch life. Lively and bold, his paintings are not only artistically eye-
Brueghel the Elder (152569) is another highly acclaimed painter from catching but also fun; The Merry Family, on display at the Rijksmuseum,
Hollands early generation, and his allegorical scenes of Flemish landscapes is a classic example, showing adults enjoying themselves around the dinner
and peasant life are instantly recognisable even by those with a minimal table, blissfully unaware of the children pouring themselves a drink in the
interest in art. foreground.
Easily the greatest of the 17th-century Dutch painters was Rembrandt (see If you were to prompt passers-by to name the first painter to pop into their
the boxed text, opposite), a man of unearthly talent whose plays of light and head, a high majority would probably blurt out Vincent van Gogh. Although
shadow created shimmering religious scenes. Another great of the era was he spent much of his life in Belgium and France, he is very much claimed by
Frans Hals (15811666), who devoted himself to portraits; his expressive the Dutch as one of their own (for more, see p40).
40 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 41

these artists formed the CoBrA group (Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam).
VINCENT VAN GOGH Much of their work can be seen at the CoBrA Museum (p110).
Without a doubt the greatest 19th-century Dutch painter was Vincent van Gogh (185390). His Contemporary Dutch artists are usually well represented at international
striking use of colour, coarse brushwork and layered contours put him in a league all his own, events such as the Biennale in Venice and the Documenta in Kassel. The
yet, astonishingly, he was self taught and his painting career lasted less than 10 years, from 1881 ranks of distinguished contemporary artists include Jan Dibbets (1941),
to 1890. In this time he produced a staggering 900 paintings and 1100 drawings. Ger van Elk (1941) and Marthe Rling (1939).
Born in Zundert near the Belgian border, the young Van Gogh started off in his uncles art
dealership in 1869, but he found it hard to settle and over the next 10 years tried his hand as a Music
teacher in England and a missionary in Belgium. By 1880 he had found his true calling, however, The old, dour Calvinists of the 17th century were never fans of music, dis-
and threw himself into painting with abandon. missing it as frivolous. They only began to allow church organ music because
He spent much of his early career in the Low Countries, where he produced dark, heavy paint- they realised it kept people out of pubs.
ings, such as his celebrated Potato Eaters (1885). In the mid-1800s he moved to Paris to live with Despite this inauspicious start, the music scene in the Netherlands is
his brother Theo, a constant support for the troubled artist; it was here that his contact with blisteringly good. Dutch musicians excel in the classics, techno/dance and
impressionists such as Pissarro, Degas and Gauguin transformed the Dutchmans painting into jazz, and the high level of music appreciation means theres a steady stream
blazing flowers, portraits and the wide-open spaces of Paris. of touring talent.
In 1888 Van Gogh moved to Arles and formed an artists cooperative with Gauguin, but depres- There has, however, been a revival in 80s music in recent years. Youll
sion and hallucinations began to haunt him. In an argument with Gauguin, Van Gogh conducted hear it in restaurants, bars and even clubs (80s nights are all the rage). While
possibly his most famous act by cutting off his left ear lobe in his despair and sending it to a were not bashing the music of over two decades ago (who doesnt like early
prostitute. Depeche Mode?), after a week or two of listening to 80s pop youll be ready
Towards the end of his life mental ill health forced him into a psychiatric hospital, but in his to listen to anything else.
lucid moments he continued to paint. His spiritual anguish and depression became more acute,
however, and on 27 July 1890 he shot himself; he survived two more days before succumbing. CLASSICAL MUSIC
It is sad to note that his paintings were only appreciated towards the end of his life (he sold The Netherlands has many orchestras based in cities throughout the country.
one painting while alive, Red Vineyard at Arles) and he lived a life of poverty. Today his paintings Den Haag, Rotterdam and Maastricht have a full calendar of performances by
fetch millions; his Portrait of Dr Gachet is the second most expensive painting ever sold, going local orchestras and groups, but Amsterdams Royal Concertgebouw Orches-
for a cool US$82.5 million in 1990 (around US$117 million in 2006 with inflation). His works now tra towers over them all. It frequently performs abroad, mixing and matching
hang in galleries from New York to Moscow, but a number can be seen in the Van Gogh Museum works by famous composers with little-known gems of the modern era.
(p106) and the Krller-Mller Museum (p269). The Orchestra of the 18th Century and the Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra
are well-known smaller ensembles. The classics of Bach, Handel and Vivaldi In the voice
are always in sensitive hands at the Combattimento Consort Amsterdam. department
DE STIJL & BEYOND The Dutch have many fine classical musicians. Among pianists, Wibi
An Amersfoort-born painter named Piet Mondriaan (18721944) changed Soerjadi (who studied at Amsterdams prestigious Sweelinck Conservatory) theres no
the direction of 20th-century art when he introduced the cubist De Stijl is one of the most successful and specialises in romantic works. Halls are diva greater
movement in 1917. De Stijl aimed to harmonise all the arts by returning always filled for Ronald Brautigam, a grand master and winner of a host of than soprano
artistic expression to its essence, and the artist who changed the spelling of accolades, including the Dutch national music prize.
his name to Mondrian after moving to Paris in 1910 did this by reducing Top violinists include Isabelle van Keulen, who often collaborates with Charlotte
shapes to horizontal and vertical lines. His paintings came to consist of bold Brautigam. An engaging personality of seemingly endless vitality, Van Keulen Margiono
rectangular patterns using only the three primary colours (red, yellow and has founded her own chamber music festival in Delft.
blue), a style known as neoplasticism. The moving ode to the USA entitled Cellists of note include Quirine Viersen, a powerful, intense soloist who
Victory Boogie Woogie is considered the flagship work of the genre. Amster- won the International Cello Competition in Paris. The fiery bowing of Pieter
dams Stedelijk Museum (p109) has other examples on display, such as Wispelwey from Leiden thrills audiences around the world.
Composition with Red, Black, Blue, Yellow and Grey. The movement influ- In the voice department theres no diva greater than soprano Charlotte
enced a generation of sculptors and designers such as Gerrit Rietveld, who Margiono, who pretty much wrote the book on interpretation in Le Nozze
planned the Van Gogh Museum and other buildings along De Stijl lines. di Figaro, the Magic Flute and other classics. Mezzo-soprano Jard van Nes
The last century also saw the perplexing designs of Maurits Cornelis Es- has a giant reputation for her solo parts in Mahlers symphonies.
cher (190272), whose impossible images continue to fascinate to this day. A Modern Dutch composers include Louis Andriessen, Theo Loevendie,
waterfall feeds itself, people go up and down a staircase that ends where it starts, Klaas de Vries and the late Ton de Leeuw. Many of their works are forays
a pair of hands draw each other. He was also a master of organic tile patterns into the uncharted waters of experimental music, and nowhere is the sense
that feed into one another while subtly changing the picture into something of adventure more tangible than in Amsterdam. Look out for the Trio, Asko
else; his work can be viewed at the Escher in het Paleis (p198) in Den Haag. Ensemble, Nieuw Ensemble and, last but not least, the Schnberg Ensemble,
After WWII, artists rebelled against artistic conventions and vented their conducted by Reinbert de Leeuw. These performers often appear in Am-
rage in abstract expressionism. Karel Appel (19212006) and Constant (1920 sterdams IJsbreker music hall.
2005) drew on styles pioneered by other European artists, exploiting bright The Netherlands Opera stages about 10 world-class performances a year at
colours to produce works that leapt off the canvas. In Paris they met up with its home, Amsterdams Muziektheater (p130). Contemporary opera forms an
Danish Asger Jorn (191473) and the Belgian Corneille (1922), and together important part of the repertoire and inevitably stirs up a lot of controversy.
 42 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 43

JAZZ The squatters movement spawned a lively punk scene, followed by the
In the past the Netherlands hasnt bred oodles of jazz talent. However, the manic synthesizers of New Wave. By the mid-1980s Amsterdam was a
phenomenal success of the North Sea Jazz Festival has sown some powerful magnet for guitar-driven rock bands such as Claw Boys Claw, dyed-in-the-
seeds, and the Dutch jazz scene can now stand on its own two feet. Europes wool garage rockers. Most vocalists stuck to lyrics in English, but the pop
largest jazzfest, the festival is held in Den Haag every summer. Amsterdams group Doe Maar broke through in Dutch, inspiring scores of bands such as
leading jazz club, Bimhuis (p130), has a concert agenda thats all quality. Trckener Kecks. Around this time Amsterdam also evolved into a capital of
The Netherlands has fostered some gifted jazz singers. Familiar to Dutch club music house, techno and R&B, with its spiritual base at the berclub
audiences for decades, the honeyed voice of Denise Jannah finally caught the Roxy (which later burnt to a crisp).
attention of Blue Note in the 1990s. Her repertoire is American standards Dutch bands were power-boosted by the 1991 introduction of commercial
with touches of her Surinamese homeland. radio. In the early 1990s the best-known Dutch variant of house was gabber,
Originally a jazz and cabaret vocalist, Astrid Seriese now captures a which originated in Rotterdam; its known for its stripped-back sound and
wider public with a variety of styles, from lyrical Cole Porter to rock and monotonous beat (up to 260 beats per minute). Rotterdam Terror Corps are
soundtracks for documentaries. Soulful Carmen Gomez is as comfortable considered the pioneer of this genre and are still around today.
singing Aretha Franklin as Ella Fitzgerald tunes. Fleurine is another gifted The hip grooves of Candy Dulfer (see opposite) and the hip-hoppy Urban
young chanteuse. Dance Squad made Americas Top 20 during the decade. Bettie Serveert, a
Dutch saxophone romped onto the international stage thanks to Hans and nod to Dutch tennis player Betty Stve, grew into one of the biggest bands
Candy Dulfer, father and daughter of the reeds. On alto sax, Candy is a known on the club circuit. Amsterdam hip-hop was spearheaded by the Osdorp Pop fest-
commodity, thanks to her funky performances with Prince, Van Morrison, Posse, who rap in their mother tongue. Following in their footsteps is the
Dave Stewart, Pink Floyd and many others. Hans blows jazz standards but immensely popular Moroccan-Dutch rapper Ali-B. ivals come
also incorporates hip-hop and other genres. The Netherlands has become a major centre for dance music, particularly out of the
A great soloist on flute is Peter Guidi, who set up the jazz programme at trance. Amsterdam and Rotterdam attract top DJs from around the world on woodwork in
the Muziekschool Amsterdam and leads its Jazzmania big band. an almost weekly basis, but quite often clubs only need to scan the local mar-
Born in Amsterdams Jordaan district, trumpeter Saskia Laroo mixes jazz ket for internationally-renowned DJs. Tisto is the undisputed trancemeister, the warmer
with dance and has been able to play for the people while still being innova- and other top DJs include Armin van Buuren and Ferry Corsten. months
tive, as one critic put it. She leads a number of acts including Smoothgroovy Pop festivals come out of the woodwork in the warmer months: Pinkpop in
BreakBeats with HotLicks. Landgraaf, Parkpop in Den Haag and Dynamo Open Air at Neunen. Dance
For top-rate jazz piano, pick up a CD of Michiel Borstlap, a winner of Valley near Haarlem pulls over 100 bands and even more DJs to the biggest
the Thelonius Monk award, who has recorded with Peter Erskine, Toots open-air dancefest in the Benelux region.
Thielemans, Ernie Watts and many others. His soul and label mate is bass
player Hein van de Geyn. WORLD MUSIC
On guitar, Jesse van Rullers effortless playing is the stuff of complex Cosmopolitan Amsterdam offers a wealth of world music. Surinam-born
refinement, especially on up-tempo pieces. He snagged the Thelonius Monk Ronald Snijders, a top jazz flautist, often participates in world music projects.
award in 1996, like Borstlap. Another jazz flautist heading towards world is the eternal Chris Hinze with
Big-band leaders such as Willem Breuker and Willem van Manen (of his album Tibet Impressions, though most of his repertoire falls in the New
Contraband) straddle modern classical and improvised music, an acquired Age category.
taste for some audiences. The XLJazz Orkest, a new big band with strings Fra-Fra-Sound plays paramaribop, a unique mixture of traditional Suri-
conducted by composer-arranger Gerrit Jan Brinkhorst, brings together namese kaseko and jazz, however the bulk of world repertoire from Amster-
established pros and hungry young blowers. dam is Latin, ranging from Cuban salsa to Dominican merengue and
Argentine tango. A sparkling Dutch-Brazilian band is Zuco 103, which
bands and POP, ROCK & DANCE melds bossa nova and samba with DJ rubs on the turntable. The New Cool
Amsterdam is the pop capital of the Netherlands, and bands and DJs are Collective is a big band with vocals that serves up a groovy cocktail of Latin,
DJs are attracted to the city like moths to the flame. However, Rotterdam gives the jazz, New Age and 60s go-go. Other bands providing a taste of the Dutch
attracted to capital a run for its money in the dance stakes, with a clubbing scene to rival world scene include Nueva Manteca (salsa), Sexteto Canyengue (tango) and
the city like that of most cities around the world. Eric Vaarzon Morel (flamenco).
In the 60s Amsterdam was the hub of counter-culture, but the epicentre The Amsterdam Roots Music Festival (p117) of world music takes place in
moths to the of pop was in Den Haag. The Scheveningse Boulevard was the place to see Amsterdams Oosterpark every June.
flame. bands like Shocking Blue in full view of Veronica, the radio station that
broadcast tunes from a harbour ship. In 1969 Golden Earrings Eight Miles Literature
High album went gold in the USA. The Netherlands has a rich literary heritage, but its gems used to be reserved
The 70s brought a few more Dutch hits internationally. In 1973 Jan for Dutch speakers. Most of its best-known contemporary authors were
Akkermans progressive rock band Focus conquered the charts with Thijs finally translated into English beginning in the mid-1990s.
van Leer as chief yodeller. Herman Brood burst onto the scene with His Wild In the Middle Ages Dutch literature stuck to epic tales of chivalry and
Romance and became a real-life, druggy, self-absorbed rock star, until he allegories. But that changed in the 16th century with Erasmus, a name famil-
threw himself off the top of the Amsterdam Hilton in 2001. After his death, iar to school children across the globe. The leading Dutch humanist wrote a
his remake of My Way went to number one in the Netherlands. satire on the church and society called His Praise of Folly.
44 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 45

Prize for Literature in 1991. Other authors to watch for include Simon
COFFEESHOPS Carmiggelt, a regular columnist for Het Parool, Jan Wolkers, whose Turk-
Love em or hate em, its almost impossible to avoid them, or at least the sweet smell wafting ish Delight an intense story of obsessive love shocked Dutch readers
from their direction. This is the humble koffieshop, an establishment unique to the Netherlands in the late 60s, and Arthur Japin, an actor/writer with a number of novels
(but tried in a number of European countries) that sells cannabis and, to a lesser extent, magic under his belt (his latest work, In Lucias Eyes, has gained plenty of inter-
mushrooms and coffee. national adulation).
Every major town (and a few minor) has a handful of coffeeshops, and the touristy joints are The growing interest in Dutch literature has been no accident. The Dutch
easy to spot: just look for the telling hemp leaves, Rastafarian colours (red, yellow and green) Literary Production and Translation Fund (www.nlpvf.nl) began propa-
or X-Files alien adorning the faade. However, the better, more comfortable and far more gating the nations literature abroad in 1991 and the efforts have paid off.
appealing shops can be hard to differentiate from a regular koffiehuis (espresso bar or sandwich Many titles now appearing in English were already bestsellers in German
shop) or caf, and usually cater to a discerning local crowd. Very few serve alcohol, which is a and other languages.
blessing in disguise as its not always wise to mix the two drugs.
The range of marijuana on sale can be quite daunting, so its best to get the advice of someone
behind the bar. Be honest if youre a novice, dont be afraid to fess up; its better to start with RECOMMENDED READS
something light (like Thai) than end up getting ill after smoking some Skunk or White Zombie.
Max Havelaar by Multatuli. An indictment of colonial forced-labour policy in the Dutch East
Pre-rolled joints are available for anything between 2 and 5, and these are handy for sampling
Indies (present-day Indonesia), written in 1860. Multatuli Latin for I have suffered greatly
various types. Most people buy small bags of dope, though, which go for around 4 to 12 (the
was the pen name of Eduard Dekker, a colonial bureaucrat.
better the quality, the less the bag will contain). Price and quality are generally OK you wont
get ripped off in a coffeeshop. Diary of Anne Frank (Het Dagboek van Anne Frank) by Anne Frank. Possibly the most famous
Most cannabis products used to be imported, but these days the country has top-notch home book penned in the Netherlands; a moving account of a young Jewish girls thoughts while
produce, so-called nederwiet (nay-der-weet), developed by diligent horticulturists and grown in hiding from the occupying Germans.
greenhouses with up to five harvests a year. Even the police admit its a superior product, espe- A Dutchmans Slight Adventures (Een Handvol Kronkels) by Simon Carmiggelt. Comical Amster-
cially the potent superskunk with up to 13% of the active substance THC (Nigerian grass has 5% dam vignettes by the winner of many literary prizes including the PC Hooftprijs. Many items
and Colombian 7%). According to a government-sponsored poll of coffeeshop owners, nederwiet appeared in the Amsterdam paper Het Parool. Tricky to find in English.
has captured over half the market, and hash is in decline even among tourists.
The Happy Hooker by Xaviera Hollander. An unapologetic yet upbeat look at the world of the
Space cakes and cookies (and even chocolate!) are sold in a rather low-key fashion, mainly
sex worker, based on a true story. This classic 1972 novel came out when damn still elicited
because of their potency and the time it takes for them to kick in; some take an hour to work,
gasps from the audience.
in which time youve probably consumed a couple more because youre not feeling anything
ask the staff how much you should take and heed their advice. If you do it right, youll have a Parents Worry (Bezorgde Ouders) by Gerard Reve. Historical novel from one of Hollands first
very gentle, pleasant ride for up to six hours. Many coffeeshops sell magic mushrooms, which out-and-out homosexuals about one day in the ravaged life of a poet looking for truth and a
are quite legal as an untreated, natural product. way out. Hard to find, but well worth the search.
For information on how much you can buy and at what age you can smoke, see p293. In a Dark Wood Wandering (Het Woud der Verwachting) by Hella Haase. Quirky historical novel
set during the Hundred Years War, with a cast of believable characters based on great figures
from mad Charles VI to Joan of Arc.
The literary lights of the Golden Age included Spinoza, an Amsterdam
The Following Story (Het Volgende Verhaal) by Cees Nooteboom. Award-winning contemporary
Jew who wrote deep philosophical treatises. Spinoza rejected the concept of Dutch writer tackles a schoolmasters journey through memory and imagination in the final
free will, contending that humans acted purely out of self-preservation. Mind seconds of his life.
and body were made of the same stuff, which he alternately called God and
Nature this got him into all kinds of trouble. The Discovery of Heaven (De Ontdekking van de Hemel) by Harry Mulisch. Two friends find they
Joost van den Vondel is often regarded as the Dutch Shakespeare. His were conceived on the same day, and share love, hate, a women and a child who is destined
best tragedy, Lucifer, describes the archangels rebellion against God. Dutch to return the Ten Commandments to God. Made into a film of the same name in 2001.
literature flourished in the 17th century under writers such as Bredero, one A Heart of Stone (Een Hart van Steen) by Renate Dorrestein. A terrifying Gothic-style tale of
of the early comic writers, and Hooft, a veritable multitalent who penned violence, childhood and madness told from inside the minds of three troubled children of a
poems, plays and history. The bible was also translated into Dutch in the superficially idyllic family.
17th century, and the publication of De Statenbijbel in 1637 was a milestone First Gray, Then White, Then Blue (Eerst Grijs, Dan Wit, Dan Blauw) by Margriet de Moor. An
in the evolution of the Dutch language. intense tale of passion and deception in which a woman reappears after a two-year absence
Postwar literature was dominated by three eminent novelists, Willem from her husband, with no explanation or remorse.
Frederik Hermans, Harry Mulisch and Gerard Reve, and the war featured
prominently in many works. In recent years they were joined by distin- The Two Hearts of Kwasi Boachi (De Zwarte met het Witte Hart) by Arthur Japin. The true story
guished writers such as Jan Wolkers, Maarten t Hart and Frederik van of two West African princes sent to study in Holland in the 1830s, and what becomes of them
der Heijden, but these offerings are still tough to find in English. Many of in the ensuing years.
these authors have been awarded the PC Hooftprijs, the Dutch national The Vanishing (Het Gouden Ei The Golden Egg) by Tim Krabb. Gripping psychological thriller
literary prize. following a mans hunt for his missing girlfriend, and a study of the banality of evil. Made into
In the contemporary field, Cees Nooteboom is one of the countrys most the Dutch-French film Spoorloos and remade as the American film The Vanishing.
prolific writers; his novel The Following Story won the Aristeion European
 46 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 47

Cinema & Television Theatre

Dutch cinema hasnt rocked the world, but thats not to say there isnt any- The Netherlands has a rich theatrical tradition going back to medieval times.
thing worth seeing. The countrys small film industry produces around 20 In the Golden Age, when Dutch was the language of trade, companies from
feature films a year, often in association with other countries. Private fund- the Low Countries toured the theatres of Europe. Some highlights of the
ing is on the increase as, unfortunately, government funding was pruned in era Vondels tragedies, Brederos comedies and Hoofts verses are still
the last few years. performed today, albeit with a modern voice.
In recent times Dutch films have won a string of nominations for best By the end of the 19th century, however, theatre had become downright
foreign film at the Academy Awards. In 2003, it was Paula van der Oests snobbish.
Zus & So; 2004 saw Ben Sombogaarts Twin Sisters make the final cut; and This trend continued until the 1960s, when disgruntled actors began
in 2006 Paradise Now, a film by Hany Abu-Assad, a Dutch-Palestinian, did to throw tomatoes at their older colleagues and engaged the audience in
the same. The latter won the Golden Globe in 2006. discussion. Avant-garde theatre companies such as Mickery and Shaffy made In the
Dutch filmmakers who have made it big in Hollywood include Paul Amsterdam a centre for experimental theatre, and many smaller companies Golden Age,
Verhoeven (Robocop, Basic Instinct, Starship Troopers) and Jan de Bont sprang up in their wake. when Dutch
(Speed, Lara Croft II). The former, however, has produced better work at There are many professional theatre companies, including traditional
home, such as the violent erotic thriller De Vierde Man (The Fourth Man), repertory companies and smaller companies who are exploring new avenues was the
and Turks Fruit (Turkish Delight), a provocative tale of love and sex. George of theatre, often combining music, mime and new media techniques. The language
Sluizer has also made inroads into Hollywood but has yet to reach the as- language barrier can prove problematic, depending on the production. of trade,
tounding heights of his Spoorloos (the original The Vanishing). When its not touring abroad, De Dogtroep (www.dogtroep.nl) stages
Leading actors Rutger Hauer, Jeroen Krabb and Famke Janssen are often fancy and unpredictable happenings in quirky venues like an Utrecht companies
not recognised as being Dutch its those good English skills again. archaeological dig or Amsterdams ship passenger terminal. Each show is from the Low
The biggest loss to Dutch cinema in recent years is Theo van Gogh. His supported by flashy multimedia effects and technical gadgetry. A spin-off of Countries
greatest box-office success was 06, a film about a phone-sex relationship, but Dogtroep, Warner & Consorten (www.warnerenconsorten.nl) is a variation
A website devoted to the he will be forever remembered for Submission: Part 1, a short piece showing on the same theme; it stages dialogue-free shows with plenty of humour, and toured the
latest comings and how verses from the Koran could be used to justify violence against women, music is generated with everyday items. theatres of
goings in the contempo- that was aired not long before his murder. Ironically, he was in the middle of English-language companies often visit Amsterdam, especially in summer. Europe.
rary Dutch film arena is filming 06/05, a fictional version of the assassination of Pim Fortuyn, when Glitzy big-budget musicals have won over audiences in recent years, as have
www.hollandfilm.nl. he himself was assassinated. English-language outfits like Boom Chicago with its fast-paced comedy.
Film festivals worth noting include the Rotterdam International Film Highlights of the Dutch theatre season include the Holland Festival (p116)
Festival in February, Utrechts Netherlands Film Festival in September, and and Over het IJ (www.overhetij.nl) in Amsterdam, and the edgier Robodock
Amsterdams International Documentary Film Festival and Fantastic Film (www.robodock.org), held at Rotterdams shipyards. Shows at the latter are
Festival, held in December and April, respectively. driven by feuding robots, ameobic screen projections and choreographed
For a snippet of information about Dutch TV, see p37. pyrotechnics.
Those with a particular interest in Dutch theatre should check out the
Photography Theatre Museum in the Theater Instituut Nederland (p101).
The Netherlands has a tradition of photography committed to social themes.
The first World Press Photo exhibition was held in Amsterdam in 1975, and the Dance
exhibition still opens in the city before touring 80 countries around the globe. The Netherlands is a world leader in modern dance. The troupe of the
Documentary photography and portraits seem to be the focus of younger- Nederlands Dans Theater (www.ndt.nl) in Den Haag leaps and pirouettes
generation Dutch photographers. The photos of Wubbo de Jong, one of the to international audiences. There are also many smaller modern dance
countrys best, can range from disturbing to funny, but are always thought- companies such as Introdans, which can truly be described as poetry in
proving and powerful, while the late Ed van der Elsken had the ability to motion.
capture the world in its unguarded moments. Originally for youth audiences, Rotterdams Scapino Ballet (www.scapino
The list of leading lights today seems endless. At the fore is Rineke Dijk- ballet.nl) has built up a wide repertoire of contemporary dance in recent years.
stra, with her unglamorous head-on portraits of common folk, and Marie The city is also home to Dansacadamie (www.hmd.nl), the nations largest
Cecile Thijs, who adds more colour and humour to her portrait shots. The dance school. The National Ballet (www.het-nationale-ballet.nl) in Amster-
photos of Henk Braam, a top docu-shooter, are an unflinching take on some dam performs mainly classical ballets but also presents 20th-century works
of the troubled corners of the globe. The inseparable Inez van Lamsweerde by Dutch choreographers such as Rudi van Dantzig or Toer van Schayk. The
and Vinoodh Matadin create slick shots for the advertising world, while the biennial Holland Dance Festival (hollanddance.plant.nl) in Den Haag draws
internationally-successful Anton Corbijn has had the privilege to photograph some of the worlds most sophisticated productions.
the likes of Johnny Depp, Tom Waits, Miles Davis, Keith Richards, Nick
Cave, David Bowie and many more.
Excellent collections of photographs can be viewed at Amsterdams Rijks-
museum and Stedelijk Museum, and at the Print Room at Leiden University.
The Netherlands Photography Institute is in Rotterdam, and private galleries
in all the major cities hold exhibitions.
 48 www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T W i l d l i fe 49

Its impossible to talk about the Dutch landscape without mentioning

Environment water. Of the 41,526 sq km that the Dutch claim as the Netherlands, 7643 sq
km is liquid; that amounts to around 20% of the entire country. Most Dutch
people shudder at the thought of a leak in the dykes. If the Netherlands were
Theres no arguing with the fact that the Netherlands is a product of human to lose its 2400km of mighty dykes and dunes some of which are 25m high
endeavour, and a well-manicured one at that. Everywhere you look, from the the large cities would be inundated by rivers as well as by the sea. Modern
neat rows of polders (strips of farmland separated by canals) to the omnipresent pumping stations run around the clock to drain off excess water.
dykes, everything looks so, well, planned and organised. God created the The danger of floods is most acute in the southwest province of Zeeland, a
world, but the Dutch created the Netherlands, as the saying goes. sprawling estuary for the rivers Schelde, Maas, Lek and Waal. The latter two
Much of this tinkering with nature has been out of necessity its hard are branches of the Rijn, the final legs of a watery journey that begins in the
to live underwater for any length of time. But all this reorganisation has Swiss Alps. The mighty Rijn itself peters out in a tiny stream called the Oude
put a strain on the Dutch environment. Whether its from pollution, Rijn (Old Rhine) at the coast near Katwijk. The Maas is another of Europes
deforestation or flooding, the cumulative dangers to natural and artificial major rivers to cross the country. It rises in France and travels through Bel-
environments are arguably greater than ever. Nearly one-third of the gium before depositing its load in the North Sea in the Delta region.
countrys surface is devoted to agriculture, while much of the rest serves
towns and industry. WILDLIFE
In the late 20th century Dutch awareness of the environment grew Human encroachment has played a huge role in the wildlife of the Nether-
by leaps and bounds. Citizens now dutifully sort their rubbish, support lands. Few wildlife habitats are left intact in the country, and over 10%
pro-bicycle schemes, and protest over scores of projects of potential detriment of species are imported; since 1900, the number of imported species has
even the air miles offered at supermarket tills. City-centre congestion has doubled.
been eased by cutting parking spaces, erecting speed bumps and initiating While Hollands flora and fauna will forever be in constant change, one The site www.dutch
park-and-ride programmes. Country roads tend to favour bike lanes at the thing remains the same birds love the place. A great depth of species can be birding.nl is the online
cost of motor vehicles. seen the entire year round, and bird-watching enthusiasts will be all aflutter home of the Dutch Bird-
But all this progress isnt a given. New EU environmental laws dont go as at the abundance of opportunities to spot our feathered friends. ing Society.
far as the Dutch would like, and the slowing economy has meant cutbacks
to major clean-up schemes. Still, the Dutch now tend to monitor pollution Animals
as they do their dykes with extreme vigilance. The Netherlands is a paradise for birds and those who love to follow them
around. The wetlands are a major migration stop for European birds, particu-
THE LAND larly the Wadden Islands Duinen van Texel National Park (p167), Flevolands
Flanked by Belgium, Germany and the choppy waters of the North Sea, Oostvaardersplassen Nature Reserve (p176) and the Delta (p228). Just take
the land mass of the Netherlands is to a great degree artificial, having been the geese: a dozen varieties, from white-fronted to pink-footed, break their
reclaimed from the sea over many centuries. Maps from the Middle Ages V-formations to winter here. New wind-energy parks along the routes are
are a curious sight today, with large chunks of land missing from Noord controversial because thousands of birds get caught in the big blades.
Where to Watch Birds
Holland and Zeeland. The country now encompasses 41,526 sq km, making Along urban canals youll see plenty of mallards, coots and swans as well as
in Holland, Belgium
it roughly half the size of Scotland or a touch bigger than the USAs state the lovely grebe with its regal head plumage. The graceful blue heron spears
and Northern France by
of Maryland. frogs and tiny fish in the ditches of the polder lands but also loiters on canal
Arnoud van den Berg and
A third of the dairy Twelve provinces make up the Netherlands. Almost all of these are as flat boats in and out of town. Other frequent guests include the black cormorant,
Dominque Lafontaine is
cattle in the world are as a Dutch pancake, for want of a better term; the only hills to speak of in the an accomplished diver with a wingspan of nearly 1m. Feral pigeons are rarely
a regional guide to the
Holstein Friesian, a high- entire country rise from its very southern tip, near Maastricht. The soil in in short supply, especially for handouts on town squares.
best places to see your
yielding variety from the the west and north is relatively young and consists of peat and clay formed A variety of fish species dart about the canals and estuaries. One of the
favourite species,
Netherlands. less than 10,000 years ago. Much of this area is below sea level, or reclaimed most interesting species is the eel, which thrives in both fresh and salt water.
with the locations of
land (half the country lies at or below sea level in the form of polders). The These amazing creatures breed in the Sargasso Sea off Bermuda before
observation hides.
sandy, gravelly layer throughout the east and south is much older, having making the perilous journey to the North Sea (only to land on someones
been deposited by rivers and then pushed up into ridges during the last dinner plate). Freshwater species such as white bream, rudd, pike, perch,
ice age. This part of the country is noticeably different in appearance, with stickleback and carp also enjoy the canal environment. You can admire them
patches of forest and heath. up close at Amsterdams Artis Zoo (p108), in an aquarium that simulates
The efforts of the Dutch to create new land which basically equates to a canal environment.
reclaiming it from the encroaching sea are almost super-human. Over In the coastal waters there are 12 crustacean species including the Chinese
the past century alone four vast polders have been created through ingen- mitten crab. This tasty little guy from the Far East has adapted so well to the
Polders form 60% of the ious engineering: Wieringermeer in Noord Holland; the Noordoostpolder Dutch estuaries that its a hazard to river habitats. Further out, the stock of
Netherlands landscape. (Northeast polder) in Flevoland; and the Noordpolder (North polder) and North Sea cod, shrimp and sole has suffered from chronic overfishing, and
Zuidpolder (South polder) on the province-island of Flevoland. Much of catches are now limited by EU quotas.
this, just over 1700 sq km, was drained after a barrier dyke closed off the Larger mammals such as the fox, badger and fallow deer have retreated
North Sea in 1932 (see p175). In total, an astounding 20% of the country to the national parks and reserves. Some species such as boar, mouflon and
is reclaimed land. red deer have been reintroduced to controlled habitats. Herds of seals can
 50 E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues 51

important in environmental terms). Most of the 20 national parks in the

BIRD-WATCHING FOR BEGINNERS country average a mere 6400 hectares and are not meant to preserve some
Seen through an amateur bird-watchers eyes, some of the more interesting sightings might natural wonder but are open areas of special interest. A total of 1289 sq km,
include the following: or just over 3%, of the Netherlands is protected in the form of national parks;
Avocet common on the Waddenzee and the Delta, with slender upturned bill, and black the most northerly is the island of Schiermonnikoog, and the most southerly
and white plumage. is the terraced landscape of De Meinweg. By 2018 the government plans to
extend the network of protected areas to 7000 sq km.
Black woodpecker drums seldom but loudly. To see it, try woodlands such as Hoge Veluwe
The better national parks are often heavily visited, not only because theres
National Park.
plenty of nature to see but also because of their well-developed visitor cen-
Bluethroat song like a free-wheeling bicycle; seen in Biesbosch National Park, Flevoland and tres and excellent displays of contemporary flora and fauna. Hoge Veluwe,
the Delta. established in 1935, is a particular favourite. Once the country retreat of
Great white egret crane-like species common in marshlands. First bred in Flevoland in the the wealthy Krller-Mller family, its now open to the public, who can
early 1990s. explore the sandy hills and forests that once were prevalent in this part of
the Netherlands.
Marsh harrier bird of prey; often hovers over reed beds and arable land.
Of the 19 remaining national parks, Weerribben in Overijssel is one of the
Spoonbill once scarce, this odd-looking fellow has proliferated on coasts in Zeeland and the most important as it preserves a landscape once heavily scarred by the peat
Wadden Islands. harvest. Here the modern objective is to allow the land to return to nature,
White stork nearly extinct in the 1980s, numbers have since recovered. Enormous nests. as is the case of the island of Schiermonnikoog in Friesland, which occupies
a good portion once used by a sect of monks, and Biesbosch near Rotterdam,
which formerly was inhabited by reed farmers.
be spotted on coastal sandbanks. Introduced muskrats are common in the The most interesting national parks (NP) and nature reserves (NR)
countryside, while their cousins, the water vole and the brown rat, find include the following:
shelter in the canalside nooks and crannies of cities. The cricket-like squeak
of dwarf bats can be heard on summer nights the dune reserves are a good Name Features Activities Best time to visit
place to see them.
Biesbosch NP (p223) estuarine reed marsh, canoeing, hiking, Mar-Sep
Plants woodland bird-watching
Mention plant life in the Netherlands and most people think of tulips. Duinen van dunes, heath, forest hiking, biking, Mar-Sep
Indeed, these cultivated bulbs are in many ways representative of much Texel NP (p167) bird-watching
of the countrys flora in that they were imported from elsewhere and then Hoge Veluwe NP (p269) marsh, forests, dunes hiking, biking, all year
commercially exploited. A range of other flowers and fruit and vegetables wildlife watching
such as tomatoes and sweet peppers fit this profile. Others, like the water Oostvaardersplassen wild reed marsh, hiking, biking, all year
pennywort, dont. This introduced water plant grows so fast over a short NR (p176) grassland bird-watching, fishing
period of time that it often jeopardises water discharge. Schiermonnikoog car-free island, hiking, mud-walking, Mar-Sep
The Netherlands is Of course, the flowers of the Netherlands are not limited to exotic types. NP (p242) dunes, mud flats bird-watching
planted in 228 sq km There are also thousands of wild varieties on display, such as the marsh Weerribben NP (p256) peat marsh boating, canoeing, all year
of flower bulbs, the orchid (pink crown of tiny blooms) or the Zeeland masterwort (bunches of hiking, bird-watching
equivalent of around white, compact blooms). Zuid-Kennemerland dunes, heath, forest hiking, bird- Mar-Sep
32,500 football fields. Much of the undeveloped land is covered by grass, which is widely NP (p152) watching, biking
used for grazing. The wet weather means that the grass remains green and Shared Spaces (www
grows for much of the year on coastal dunes and mud flats, and around ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES .sharedspaces.nl) is
brackish lakes and river deltas. Marshes, heaths and peatlands are the next As a people, the Dutch are more aware of environmental issues than most. an online quarterly
most common features. The remnants of oak, beech, ash and pine forests But then again, with high population density, widespread car ownership, magazine in English that
are carefully managed. Wooded areas such as Hoge Veluwe National Park heavy industrialisation, extensive farming and more than a quarter of the covers the Netherlands
are mostly products of recent forestation, so trees tend to be young and of country below sea level, they need to be. and Europes current
a similar age. Even the vegetation on islands such as Ameland is monitored As early as the 1980s a succession of Dutch governments began to put environmental issues.
to control erosion. in motion plans to tighten the standards for industrial and farm pollution, Its published by the
and also made recycling a part of everyday life. Nowadays the Dutch love to Netherlands Ministry of
The site www.nationaal NATIONAL PARKS debate ways to reconcile the triple ps planet, people and profit. Spatial Planning, Housing
park.nl/english.phtml With so few corners of the Netherlands left untouched, the Dutch cherish While people are happy to recycle, theyre not so happy to give up their and the Environment.
provides a comprehensive every bit of nature thats left, and thats doubly true for their national parks. precious cars. Despite good, reasonably cheap public transportation, private
list of national parks in But while the first designated natural reserve was born in 1930, it wasnt until car ownership has risen sharply over the past two decades. Use of vehicles
the Netherlands. 1984 that the first publicly funded park was established. is now about 50% above the levels of the late 1980s, which is due also to
National parks in the Netherlands tend to be small affairs for an area burgeoning freight transport. Some critics warn that, unless action is taken,
to become a park, it must only be bigger than 10 sq km (and of course be the countrys streets and motorways will become gridlocked (or should
52 ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues 53

pig and cattle stocks in recent years. Farmers, especially in the provinces of
HIGHS & LOWS Noord Brabant and Limburg, are still reeling from these epidemics.
Theres no arguing that the Netherlands is a low, flat country (Netherlands in Dutch means low Partly to blame for such plagues, critics say, are the great numbers of
land), but it does have some dips and bumps. Its lowest point the small town of Nieuwerkerk animals (primarily pigs, cattle and chickens) bred and farmed together in
aan den IJssel, near Rotterdam is 6.74m below sea level, while its highest point, the Vaalserberg close quarters intensive farming is a major earner for the Dutch economy.
in Limburg, is a meagre 321m above. Vaccines and stiffer rules on animal transport have been introduced to stem
However, if the Kingdom of the Netherlands, which consists of the Netherlands, the Nether- contagion. The crisis has a silver lining, however: fewer farm animals mean
lands Antilles and Aruba, is taken into account, the scene swiftly changes. Its lowest point re- that arable lands have less nitrate-rich manure to absorb (overfertilisation
mains the same, but its highest point almost triples to 862m, the top of Mt Scenery on the tiny is also chronic in the Netherlands).
Caribbean island of Saba. More attention is being paid to sustainable development. Bowing to pres- Jump online and check
sure by both the government and green organisations such as Greenpeace, out these conservation
Dutch companies are shouldering more responsibility for the impact of their organisations: Dutch
that read stiflingly gridlocked?) over the next decade. Stiff parking fees, operations on society and the environment. Energy giants such as Shell, Nuon Friends of the Earth,
the distinct lack of parking spaces, and outlandish fines have helped curb and Gasunie have invested heavily in developing new sources of clean energy www.milieudefensie
congestion in the inner cities, however, thankfully shifting a lot of car drivers such as hydrogen fuel cells for cars; Amsterdam is now graced with a few .nl (in Dutch); Society
onto bicycles, trams and buses. hydrogen-powered buses. Wind parks in Flevoland and Noord Holland now for Nature and Environ-
The countrys congested motorways have proved harder to regulate. generate a significant amount of the countrys electricity, though at a cost to ment, www.snm.nl; and
Road tolls common practice in a number of European countries have passing birds and the natural profile of the landscape. Demand has grown for Greenpeace, www
been suggested by various Dutch governments, but as yet nothing has products that are perceived as environmentally friendly, such as free-trade .greenpeace.org.
been implemented. Aside from boosting the governments spending pot, coffee and organic meats and vegetables. So far, however, these products are
tolls would help to reduce traffic jams, vehicle emissions and probably the relegated to a few supermarket shelves or specialist retailers.
nations blood pressure.
The effects of global warming, a topic on the mind of everyone except the
leaders of various powerful nations, are obvious in the Netherlands. Over
the past century the winters have become shorter and milder, and three of
the warmest years on record occurred in the past decade alone. The long-
distance ice-skating race known as the Elfstedentocht (p238) may die out
because the waterways in the northern province of Friesland rarely freeze
hard enough. The Dutch national weather service KNMI predicts that only
four to 10 races will be held this century.
The lack of ice over winter is simply annoying; a rise in sea levels is a dis-
aster of epic proportions. If the sea level rises as forecast, the country could
theoretically sink beneath the waves, like Atlantis, or at least suffer annual
flooding. Extra funds have already been allocated to extend the dykes and
storm barriers if necessary.
Even if the sea rises, the tenacity of the Dutch will surely keep it at bay,
but this is not the only concern when it comes to the North Sea. Water
quality appears to be in decline again, with pesticides, unfiltered runoff
from farms and industrial waste considered to be the chief culprits. The
Dutch government has put in place certain restrictions on farmers and
companies, but waste still flows freely through the country and into the
North Sea via the Maas and Rhine rivers, which enter the country from Bel-
gium and Germany respectively. Dutch coastal waters meet EU standards,
but the pollution can sometimes be obvious even to the casual observer.
The European water-quality watchdog Foundation for Environmental
Education (FEE) awarded its coveted blue flag to 40 Dutch beaches in
2006 but, compared to Mediterranean countries, or even Denmark,
thats not a hell of a lot.
A wave of animal diseases has raised questions about farming practices. At
one point the Dutch chicken population exceeded 100 million, one of the larg-
est concentrations in the industrialised world. That was before an outbreak
of bird flu in 2002 made it necessary to destroy millions of birds to stop the
spread of the disease. If the current wave of bird flu to hit Eastern Europe
reaches the Netherlands, another massive cull wont be far behind it. Swine
flu, foot-and-mouth disease and BSE (mad cow disease) have vastly reduced
 54 www.lonelyplanet.com ARCHITEC TURE Mannerism 55

Architecture GABLES & HOISTS

Travel the length and breadth of the Netherlands and there is one architectural phenomenon
you simply cant escape the elegant gable. These eye-catching vertical triangular or oblong
The Dutch are masters of architecture and use of space, but this is nothing sections at the top of a faade are as important to Dutch architecture as gezelligheid is to the
new. Through the ages, few countries have exerted more influence on the Dutch psyche.
discipline of art and construction than the Netherlands. From the original The original purpose of a gable was entirely practical it not only hid the roof from public
sober cathedrals to the sleek modern structures, their ideas and designs have view but also helped to identify the house (this changed when the occupying French introduced
spread not only throughout Europe but also to the new world. house numbers in 1795). However, the more ornate the gable, the easier it was to spot. Other
The wonderful thing about Dutch architecture is that you can time-travel distinguishing features included faade decorations, signs and cartouches (wall tablets).
through a thousand years of beautiful buildings in one city alone. The There are four main types of Dutch gable. The simple spout gable a copy of the earliest
weird thing about Dutch architecture with all its influence, cleverness wooden gables is characterised by semicircular windows or shutters and looks not unlike
and internationally renowned architects is that youre not going to find an upturned funnel; it was used mainly for warehouses from the 1580s to the early 1700s.
bombastic statements like St Peters cathedral or the Louvre. But, then again, The step gable, which literally looks like steps, was a late-Gothic design favoured by Dutch-
ostentation was never in keeping with the Dutch character. Its the little Renaissance architects from 1580 to 1660. The neck gable, also known as the bottle gable
surprises that charm most: a subtle joke, a flourish on a 17th-century gable because it resembled a bottle spout, was introduced in the 1640s and proved most durable,
or that unending flight of stairs that seems far too tight to be at all practical featuring occasionally in designs of the early 19th century. Some neck gables incorporated a
but still manages to transport you to the 4th floor step. The graceful slopes of the bell gable first appeared in the 1660s and became popular
in the 18th century.
ROMANESQUE From the 18th century onwards many new houses no longer had gables but rather straight,
A World History of Archi- Romanesque architecture, which took the country (and Europe) by storm horizontal cornices that were richly decorated, often with pseudo-balustrades.
tecture by Marian Moffett, between 900 and 1250, is the earliest architectural style remaining in the If you find yourself wondering whether many canal houses are tipping forward, or youve
Lawrence Wodehouse country, if you discount the hunebedden (p253). Its main characteristics are simply had too much to drink or smoke, dont worry. A lot were built with a slight forward lean
and Michael Fazio is an uncomplicated form, thick walls, small windows and round arches. to allow goods and furniture to be hoisted into the attic without bumping into the house (and
an excellent introduction The oldest church of this style in the Netherlands is the Pieterskerk (p180) windows). A few houses have huge hoist-wheels in the attic with a rope and hook that run
to the world of architec- in Utrecht. Built in 1048, its one of five churches that form a cross in the through the hoist beam.
ture, with many Dutch city, with the cathedral at its centre. Runner-up is Nijmegens 16-sided St
examples provided. Nicolaaskapel (p264), which is basically a scaled-down copy of Charlemagnes
chapel in Aachen, Germany. Another classic example of Romanesque is the Stone Gothic structures do exist in the western stretches of Holland, though;
Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek (p280) in Maastricht; its fortress-like tower with Haarlems Grote Kerk van St Bavo (p148) is a wonderful example.
round turrets evokes images of Umberto Ecos novel of monastic intrigue, If Gothic tickles your fancy, take a peek at the town halls in Gouda (p202)
The Name of the Rose. and Middelburg (p225), both of which are nearly overwhelming in their
Hollands countryside is also privy to this style of architecture. The windy weightiness and pomp.
plains of the north are filled with examples of sturdy brick churches erected
in the 12th and 13th centuries, such as the lonely church perched on a man- MANNERISM
made hill in Hogebeintum (p235) in Friesland. From the middle of the 16th century the Renaissance style that was sweep-
ing through Italy steadily began to filter into the Netherlands. The Dutch
GOTHIC naturally put their own spin on this new architectural design, which came
By around 1250 the love affair with Romanesque was over, and the Gothic to be known as mannerism (c 15501650). Also known as Dutch Renais-
era was ushered in. Pointed arches, ribbed vaulting and dizzying heights sance, this unique style falls somewhere between Renaissance and baroque;
were trademarks of this new architectural style, which was to last until 1600. it retained the bold curving forms and rich ornamentation of baroque
Although the Dutch buildings didnt match the size of the French Gothic but merged them with classical Greek and Roman and traditional Dutch
cathedrals, a rich style emerged in Catholic Brabant that could compete with styles. Building faades were accentuated with mock columns (pilasters)
anything abroad. Stone churches with soaring vaults and buttresses such and the simple spout gables were replaced with step gables (see the boxed
as Sint Janskathedraal (p273) in Den Bosch and Bredas Grote Kerk (p275) text, above) that were richly decorated with sculptures, columns and ob-
were erected, both of which are good examples of the Brabant Gothic style, elisks. The playful interaction of red brick and horizontal bands of white
as it was later known. Note the timber vaulting and the widespread use of or yellow sandstone was based on mathematical formulas designed to
brick among the stone. please the eye.
Stone is normally a constant fixture of Gothic, but in the marshy lands of Hendrik de Keyser (15651621) was the champion of mannerism. His
the western Netherlands it was too heavy (and too scarce) to use. The basic Zuiderkerk (p99), Noorderkerk (p100) and Westerkerk (p102) in Amster-
ingredients of bricks clay and sand were however in abundance. Still, dam are standout examples; all three show a major break from the sober,
bricks are not exactly light material, and weight limits forced architects to stolid lines of brick churches located out in the sticks. Their steeples are
build long or wide to compensate for the lack of height. The Sint Janskerk ornate and built with a variety of contrasting materials, while the windows
(p202) in Gouda is the longest church in the country, with a nave of 123m, are framed in white stone set off by brown brick. Florid details enliven the
and it has the delicate, stately feel of a variant called Flamboyant Gothic. walls and roof lines.
 56 A R C H I T E C T U R E G o l d e n Ag e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com ARCHITEC TURE Late 19th Century 57

GOLDEN AGE
After the Netherlands became a world trading power in the 17th century, its CYCLING THROUGH ARCHITECTURE
rich merchants were able to splash out on lavish buildings. For a first-hand view of how Dutch cities have developed through the ages and how they effort-
More than anything, the new architecture had to impress. The leading lessly merge with the surrounding countryside, hire a bike in Amsterdam and cycle to Haarlem
lights in the architectural field, such as Jacob van Campen (15951657) and (two hours).
the brothers Philips and Justus Vingboons, again turned to ancient Greek and Start in the very heart of the capital amongst its gabled houses and grand buildings, then
Roman designs for ideas. To make buildings look taller, the step gable was re- head west through its spacious, modern suburbs and on to the unhurried outer business parks
placed by a neck gable, and pilasters were built to look like imperial columns, punctuated by wide roads and glass and steel constructions; before you know it, youll have
complete with pedestals. Decorative scrolls were added as finishing flourishes, smoothly arrived in the countryside. An hour of gentle riding is before you until it all starts again,
and the peak wore a triangle or globe to simulate a temple roof. but in reverse; Haarlems business parks greet you first, followed by contemporary suburbs, and
The Nederlands Architec- A wonderful example of this is the Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace; p96) in suddenly youre savouring a beer in the shadow of the glorious Gothic Grote Kerk.
tuur Instituut (www.nai Amsterdam, originally built as the town hall in 1648. Van Campen, the architect, If you can, take a few friends and something to smoke itll make the journey all the more
.nl) is the top authority on drew on classical designs and dropped many of De Keysers playful decorations, interesting
the latest developments. and the resulting building exuded gravity with its solid lines and shape.
This new form of architecture suited the citys businessmen, who needed
to let the world know that they were successful. As sports cars were still cen- LATE 19TH CENTURY
turies away, canal houses became showpieces. Despite the narrow plots, each From the 1850s onwards, many of the countrys large architectural projects
building from this time makes a statement at gable level through sculpture siphoned as much as they could from the Gothic era, creating neo-Gothic.
and myriad shapes and forms. Philips and Justus Vingboons were special- Soon afterwards, freedom of religion was declared and Catholics were allowed
ists in these swanky residences; their most famous works include the Bijbels to build new churches in Protestant areas. Neo-Gothic suited the Catholics
Museum (Biblical Museum; p101), the gorgeous Theater Instituut (p101) just fine, and a boom in church-building took place; Amsterdams Krijtberg
and houses scattered throughout Amsterdams western canal belt. (p103) is one of the most glorious.
The capital is not the only city to display such grand architecture. Den Another wave of nostalgia, neo-Renaissance, drew heavily on De Keysers
Haag has 17th-century showpieces, including the Paleis Noordeinde (p198) earlier masterpieces. Neo-Renaissance buildings were erected throughout
and the Mauritshuis (p197), and scores of other examples line the picture- the country, made to look like well-polished veterans from three centuries
perfect canals of Leiden, Delft and Maastricht, to name but a few. earlier. For many observers, these stepped-gable edifices with alternating
From the mid-17th century onwards Dutch architecture began to influence stone and brick are the epitome of classic Dutch architecture.
France and England, and its colonial styles can still be seen in the Hudson One of the leading architects of this period was Pierre Cuypers (1827
River Valley of New York state. 1921), who built several neo-Gothic churches but often merged the style with Rotterdams 12-storey
neo-Renaissance, as can be seen in Amsterdams Centraal Station (p83) and Witte Huis (built 1898)
FRENCH INFLUENCE Rijksmuseum (p106). These are predominantly Gothic structures but have was Europes first
By the 18th century the wealthy classes had turned their backs on trade for touches of Dutch Renaissance brickwork. skyscraper.
more staid lives in banking or finance, which meant a lot of time at home.
Around the same time, Dutch architects began deferring to all things French; BERLAGE & THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOL
dainty Louis XV furnishings and florid rococo faades became all the rage. It As the 20th century approached, the neo styles and their reliance on the past
was then a perfect time for new French building trends to sweep the country. were strongly criticised by Hendrik Petrus Berlage (18561934), the father
Daniel Marot (16611752), together with his assistants Jean and Anthony of modern Dutch architecture. He favoured spartan, practical designs over
Coulon, was the first to introduce French interior design with matching exte- frivolous ornamentation; the 1902 Beurs van Berlage (p84) displays these
riors. Good examples of their work can be found along the Lange Voorhout ideals to the full. Berlage cooperated with sculptors, painters and tilers to en-
in Den Haag, near the British embassy. Rooms were bathed in light, thanks sure that ornamentation was integrated into the overall design in a supportive
to stuccoed ceilings and tall sash windows, and everything from staircases role, rather than being tacked on as an embellishment to hide the structure.
to furniture was designed in harmony. Berlages residential designs approached a block of buildings as a whole,
not as a collection of individual houses. In this he influenced the young
NEOCLASSICISM architects of what became known as the Amsterdam School, though they
Architecture took a back seat during the Napoleonic Wars in the late 18th rejected his stark rationalism and preferred more creative designs. Leading
century. Buildings still needed to be built, of course, so designers dug deep exponents were Michel de Klerk (18841923), Piet Kramer (18811961) and
into ancient Greek and Roman blueprints once more and eventually came Johan van der Mey (18781949); the latter ushered in the Amsterdam School
up with neoclassicism (c 17901850). Known for its order, symmetry and (c 191630) with his extraordinary Scheepvaarthuis (p109).
simplicity, neoclassical design became the mainstay for houses of worship, Brick was the material of choice for such architects, and housing blocks
courtyards and other official buildings. A shining example of neoclassicism were treated as sculptures, with curved corners, oddly placed windows and
is Groningens town hall (p248); of particular note are the classical pillars, ornamental, rocket-shaped towers. Their Amsterdam housing estates, such
although the use of brick walls is a purely Dutch accent. Many a church as De Klerks Ship in the west, have been described as fairy-tale fortresses
was subsidized by the government water ministry and so was named a rendered in a Dutch version of Art Deco. Their preference for form over
Waterstaatkerk (state water church), such as the lonely house of worship function meant their designs were great to look at but not always fantastic
in Schokland (p177). to live in, with small windows and inefficient use of space.
 58 A R C H I T E C T U R E Fu n c t i o n a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com

Housing subsidies sparked a frenzy of residential building activity in the

1920s. At the time, many architects of the Amsterdam school worked for
Bart Lootsmas Super the Amsterdam city council and designed the buildings for the Oud Zuid
Dutch is a slick book (Old South, p105). This large-scale expansion mapped out by Berlage
covering the latest in called for good-quality housing, wide boulevards and cosy squares; it was
Dutch design from the instigated by the labour party, but the original designer didnt get much of
countrys most influential a chance to design the buildings, as council architects were pushing their
architects. own blueprints.

FUNCTIONALISM
While Amsterdam Schooltype buildings were being erected all over their
namesake city, a new generation of architects began to rebel against the
schools impractical (not to mention expensive) structures. Influenced by
the Bauhaus school in Germany, Frank Lloyd Wright in the USA and Le
Corbusier in France, they formed a group called the 8. It was the first stir-
ring of functionalism (192770).
Architects such as B Merkelbach and Gerrit Rietveld believed that form
The website of whos who should follow function and sang the praises of steel, glass and concrete.
in Hollands architectural Their spacious designs were practical and allowed for plenty of sunlight;
scene is www.dutch the Rietveld-Schrderhuis (p182) is the only house built completely along
architects.com. functionalist De Stijl lines.
After the war, functionalism came to the fore and stamped its authority on
new suburbs to the west and south of Amsterdam, as well as war-damaged
cities such as Rotterdam. High-rise suburbs were built on a large scale yet
werent sufficient to keep up with the population boom and urbanisation
of Dutch life. But functionalism fell from favour as the smart design aspects
were watered down in low-cost housing projects for the masses.

MODERNISM & BEYOND

Construction has been booming in the Netherlands since the 1980s, and
The Guide to Modern architects have had been ample opportunity to flirt with numerous isms
Architecture in the Nether- such as structuralism, neorationalism, postmodernism and supermodernism.
lands by Paul Groenendijk Evidence of these styles can be found in Rotterdam, where city planners have
and Piet Vollaard is a encouraged bold designs that range from Piet Bloms startling cube-shaped
comprehensive look at Boompjestorens (p211) to Ben van Berkels graceful Erasmusbrug (p211).
20th-century architec- Striking examples in Amsterdam include the NEMO science centre (p110),
ture, arranged by region, which recalls a resurfacing submarine, and the new Eastern Docklands
with short explanations housing estate, where blue is green ie the surrounding water takes the
and photos. role of lawns and shrubbery.
 59

Food & Drink

Like many other countries in northern Europe, the Netherlands has
never had a reputation for outstanding, or even fine, cuisine. Hearty,
hefty, filling, stodgy these are the adjectives with which Dutch cooking
is usually tagged. This, however, has a historical context; traditionally,
the Dutch never paid that much attention to food, as there was too much Julius Caesar was a big
work to be done and little time to cook. It is quite revealing that, during fan of Dutch cheese.
the Golden Age, spices such as pepper were more of a currency than a
culinary ingredient.
In recent years, however, these attitudes have been transformed by a
culinary revolution sweeping the Netherlands. The Dutch have begun to
experiment with their own traditional kitchen, breathing new life into
centuries-old recipes by giving them a contemporary twist. Smart Dutch
chefs now prefer to steam or braise vegetables rather than boil them, and
they draw on organic ingredients as well as a generous quantity of fresh
herbs and spices.

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES Dutch Delights by Sylvia

The Dutch start the day with a filling yet unexciting breakfast of a few slices Pessireron, Jurjen Drenth
of bread accompanied by jam, cheese and a boiled egg. Coffee is always in- and friends is a playful
volved. Lunch tends to be more of a snack, especially for the working crowd, look at the eating habits
taken between noon and 2pm. A half-hour is common for the midday break, of the Dutch. Its easy
just long enough for employees to snag a quick sandwich or empty their to digest and filled with
lunchbox. Dinner is the main meal of the day and is usually a substantial superb photos.
serving, whether it be traditional Dutch cuisine or something from beyond
the Netherlands borders.

DUTCH
Van Gogh perfectly captured the main ingredient of traditional Dutch cook-
ing in his Potato Eaters. Typically boiled to death, these earth apples are
accompanied by meat and more boiled vegetables. Gravy is then added
for flavour. Its certainly not fancy, but it is filling.
Few restaurants serve exclusively Dutch cuisine, but many places have
several homeland items on the menu, especially in winter. Some time-
honoured favourites:
stamppot (mashed pot) simple dish of potatoes mashed with kale,
endive or sauerkraut and served with smoked sausage or strips of pork.
Perfect in winter.
hutspot (hotchpotch) similar to stamppot, but with potatoes, carrots,
onions, braised meat and more spices.
erwtensoep (pea soup) Plenty of peas with onions, carrots, smoked
sausage and bacon. And the perfect pea soup? A spoon stuck upright
in the pot should remain standing.
asperge (asparagus) usually white and often crunchy; very popular
when its in season (spring); served with ham and butter.
kroketten (croquettes) dough balls with various fillings that are
crumbed and deep-fried; the variety called bitterballen are a popular
pub snack served with mustard.
mosselen (mussels) cooked with white wine, chopped leeks and
onions, and served in a bowl or cooking pot with a side dish of frites
or patat (French fries); theyre popular, and are best eaten from Sep-
tember to April.
 60 FOOD & DRINK Staples & Specialities www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK Drinks 61

DISTINCTLY CHEESY
Some Dutch say it makes them tall; others complain it causes nightmares. Whatever the case, the TRAVEL YOUR TASTEBUDS
Netherlands is justifiably famous for its cheeses. The Dutch known as the original cheeseheads Raw fish isnt that bad sushi and sashimi, for instance, are delectable morsels the world is a
consume 16.5kg of the stuff every year. better place for. However, the sight of a local slowly sliding a raw herring headfirst (thankfully
Nearly two-thirds of all cheese sold is Gouda. The tastier varieties have strong, complex flavours headless) down their gullet looks, well, wrong. But the Dutch love this salted delicacy and are
and are best enjoyed with a bottle of wine or two. Try some oud (old) Gouda, hard and rich in eager for visitors to try it. If an entire fish is too much to stomach, it can be cut into bite-sized
flavour and a popular bar snack with mustard. Oud Amsterdammer is a real delight, deep orange pieces and served with onion and pickles. Youll find vendors the length and breadth of the
and crumbly with white crystals of ripeness. country look for the words haring or Hollandse niuewe and dig in.
Edam is similar to Gouda but slightly drier and less creamy. Leidse or Leiden cheese is another Another acquired taste in Holland is drop. This so-called sweet is a thick, rubbery liquorice
export hit, laced with cumin or caraway seed and light in flavour. root and Arabic gum concoction the Dutch go crazy for a reputed 30 million kilos of the stuff
In the shops youll also find scores of varieties that are virtually unknown outside the country. is consumed each year. Its bitter taste is reminiscent of childhood medicine and some foreigners
Frisian Nagelkaas might be made with parsley juice, buttermilk, and nails of caraway seed. have trouble taking a second bite. Theres also a liquid version; look for a bottle of Dropshot
Kruidenkaas has a melange of herbs such as fennel, celery, pepper or onions. Graskaas is new in supermarkets.
harvest Gouda made after cows begin to roam the meadows and munch grass.
Lower-fat cheeses include Milner, Kollumer and Maaslander. One has to start somewhere: the
stats show that the Dutch are gaining weight despite all that cycling. SURINAMESE
Dishes from this former colony have Caribbean roots, blending African and Access a collection of
Indian flavours with Indonesian influences introduced by Javanese labourers. Dutch recipes in English,
Lamb is prominently featured on menus, but surprisingly for such a sea- Chicken, lamb and beef curries are common menu items. Roti, a chickpea- and online shopping for
faring nation seafood is not. It is more commonly eaten as a snack, in which flour pancake filled with potatoes, long beans, bean sprouts and meat (vegetar- Canadian and US citizens
form it is everywhere. Haring (herring) is a national institution, eaten lightly ian versions are available), is by far the favoured choice of the Dutch. who absolutely need
salted or occasionally pickled but never fried or cooked (see opposite); paling Dutch products, on www
Dutch Cooking: The New (eel) is usually smoked. DRINKS .dutchmarket.com.
Kitchen by Manon Sikkel Typical Dutch desserts are fruit pie (apple, cherry or other fruit), vla Nonalcoholic
and Michiel Klonhammer (custard) and ice cream. Many snack bars and pubs serve appeltaart (apple More coffee is consumed per capita in the Netherlands than in any other
is a fresh perspective on pie), which is always good. Amazingly, some Dutch eat hagelslag (chocolate European country bar Denmark. Ordering a koffie will get you a sizable
traditional Dutch cuisine, sprinkles) on their bread for breakfast. cup of the black stuff and a separate package or jug of koffiemelk, a slightly
in which age-old recipes Finally, most towns have at least one place serving pannenkoeken (pan- sour-tasting cream akin to condensed milk. Koffie verkeerd is similar to
are given a modern cakes), which come in a huge array of varieties. The mini-version, covered latte, served in a big mug with plenty of real milk. If you order espresso or
makeover. in caster sugar, is poffertjes. cappuccino, youll be lucky to get a decent Italian version. Dont count on
finding decaffeinated coffee, and if you do it may be instant.
INDONESIAN Tea is usually served Continental-style: a cup or pot of hot water with a
Indonesian cooking is a rich and complex blend of many cultures: chilli tea bag on the side. Varieties might be presented in a humidor-like box for The Dutch drink on
peppers, peanut sauces and stewed curries from Thailand, lemon grass you to pick and choose. If you want milk, say met melk, graag. Many locals average 140L of coffee
and fish sauces from Vietnam, intricate Indian spice mixes, and Asian prefer to add a slice of lemon. each a year.
cooking methods. Without a doubt this is the tastiest legacy of the Dutch
colonial era. Alcoholic
In the Netherlands, Indonesian food is toned down for sensitive Western Lager beer is the staple drink, served cool and topped by a head of froth so
palates. If you want it hot (pedis, pronounced p-dis), say so, but be prepared big it would start a brawl in an Australian bar. Heineken tells us that these
for watering eyes and burnt taste buds. You might play it safe by asking for are flavour bubbles, and requests for no head will earn a steely response.
sambal (chilli paste) and helping yourself. Sambal oelek is red and hot; the Een bier or een pils will get you a normal glass; een kleintje pils is a small
dark-brown sambal badjak is onion-based, mild and sweet. glass and een fluitje is a tall but thin glass perfect for multiple refills. Some
The most famous Indonesian dish is rijsttafel (rice table): an array of spicy places serve half-litre mugs to please tourists.
savoury dishes such as braised beef, pork satay and ribs served with white Belgian beers are widely available, with strong and crisp flavours that make
rice. Nasi rames is a steaming plate of boiled rice covered in several rich Dutch pilsners pale. Some good brands include De Koninck, Palm, Duvel and The official website of
condiments, while the same dish with thick noodles is called bami rames. Westmalle (beware of their doubles and triples). The lighter witbier (blonde the Dutch can-collectors
Peanut sauce plays a big part in Indonesian cuisine. Dishes such as beer) is a good choice in balmy weather, and brands such as Hoegaarden are association is www
gado-gado, a meal of crisp, steamed vegetables and a hard-boiled egg, come typically served with a slice of lemon and a swizzle stick. .blik-op-blik.nl. Hunt
with lashings of the stuff, and sat (satay), which is basically marinated Dutch jenever or gin is made from juniper berries and drunk chilled from for that rare Dutch beer
beef, chicken or pork barbecued on small skewers, would be substandard a shot glass filled to the brim. Most people prefer jonge (young) jenever, can here.
without it. which is smoother; the strong juniper flavour of oude (old) jenever can
Other stand-bys include nasi goreng, a simple yet extremely popular dish be an acquired taste. The aptly-named kopstoot (head butt) is a double-
of fried rice with onions, pork, shrimp and spices, often with a fried egg whammy of jenever and a beer chaser. The palette of indigenous liqueurs
or shredded omelette, and bami goreng, which is much the same thing but includes advocaat (a kind of eggnog) and the herb-based Beerenburg, a
with noodles. Frisian schnapps.
 62 FOOD & DRINK Celebrations www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 63

tables and chairs might call itself a grand caf. Normally opening at 10am,
A TASTY BREW theyre marvellous for a lazy lunch or brunch.
The Dutch love beer. Its seen as the perfect companion for time spent with friends in the sun or Falling within the other category are theatre cafs, which attract a trendy The site www.recepten
out partying till the small hours. And theyve had plenty of time to cultivate this unquestioning mix of bohemian and chic; proeflokalen, or tasting houses, which once were .nl is an exhaustive
love beer has been a popular drink since the 14th century, and at one time the Dutch could lay attached to distilleries (good for sampling dozens of jenevers and liqueurs); archive of Dutch recipes
claim to no fewer than 559 brewers. Most Dutch beer is pilsner (or lager), a clear, crisp, golden trendy bars with cool designer interiors; and the ubiquitous Irish pubs. and cooking links. Its
beer with strong hop flavouring. in Dutch but easy to
Heineken is the Netherlands (and possibly the worlds) best-known beer. However, like Fosters Quick Eats decipher.
in Australia, it has a poor name at home the beer your cheap father drinks, to quote one wag. Broodjeszaken (sandwich shops) or snack bars proliferate. The latter offer
Amstel (owned by Heineken) is also well known; Grolsch and Oranjeboom can also claim a certain multicoloured treats in a display case, usually based on some sort of meat
amount of international fame. Most beers contain around 5% alcohol, and a few of those cute and spices, and everything is dumped into a deep-fryer when you order. Febo
little glasses can pack a strong punch. snack bars have long rows of coin-operated windows la the Jetsons.
While the big names rule the roost, the Netherlands has scores of small brewers worth trying, The national institution, Vlaamse frites (Flemish fries), are French fries
including Gulpen, Bavaria, Drie Ringen, Leeuw and Utrecht. La Trappe is the only Dutch Trappist made from whole potatoes rather than the potato pulp you will get if
beer, brewed close to Tilburg. The potent beers made by Amsterdams Brouwerij t IJ (p109) are the sign only says frites. They are supposed to be smothered in mayon-
sold on tap and in some local pubs try the Columbus brew (9% alcohol). If youre around in naise (though you can ask for ketchup, curry sauce, garlic sauce or other
spring or autumn, dont pass up the chance to sample Grolschs seasonal bock beers, such as gloppy toppings).
Lentebok (spring bock) and Herfstbok (autumn bock). Like Brouwerijs brews, they kick like a Seafood is everywhere. The most popular aside from raw herring (see
mule, so, depending on your mood, tread carefully or drink as though you want to spend the p61) is kibbeling (deep-fried cod parings), while smoked eel has legions
next day in bed. of fans. At www.dinnersite.nl
Lebanese and Turkish snack bars specialise in shoarma, a pitta bread you can sift through over
filled with sliced lamb from a vertical spit also known as a gyros or doner 9000 restaurants and
Wine seems to be an afterthought in the Netherlands but an afterthought kebab. cafs without leaving
that is slowly taking hold. Plenty of European and New World varieties your chair.
are available, but take a second look at the prices as Dutch import duties VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
normally keep them high. For all their liberalism and openness, its surprising to note that the Dutch
are slow on the vegetarian uptake. Outside the major metropolises youll be
CELEBRATIONS hard-pressed to find a strictly vegetarian-only restaurant in the small town
DOS & DONTS The Dutch sweet tooth really comes out during the annual holidays and youre visiting; in this case, youll be relying on the couple of veg options
Do round up the bill by festivities. Early December is a good time to sample traditional treats such available on most restaurant menus. Check their purity before ordering,
5% to 10% (unless the as spicy speculaas biscuits or pepernoten, the little crunchy ginger nuts that though, as often you cant be sure whether theyre 100% meat- or fish-free
service is bad). are handed out at Sinterklaas. Oliebollen are small spherical donuts filled (meat stock is a common culprit).
Do split the costs. with raisins or other diced fruit, deep-fried and dusted with powdered Once you do track down a vegetarian restaurant, youll be happy to find
sugar; you can buy these calorie bombs from street vendors in the run-up that they rely on organic ingredients and often make everything from bread
Do reserve ahead,
to New Year. to cakes in-house.
especially at weekends.
Muisjes (little mice) are sugar-coated aniseed sprinkles served on a round
Do take children to pubs beschuit (rusk biscuit) to celebrate the birth of a child blue and white for
and restaurants. a boy; pink and white for a girl. TOP RESTAURANTS IN THE NETHERLANDS
Do bring flowers or wine Mamouche (p126), Amsterdam top-notch Moroccan fare in stripped-back surroundings,
when invited home. WHERE TO EAT & DRINK accompanied by a decidedly sexy vibe.
Restaurants abound and they cater to a wide variety of tastes and budgets.
Dont ask to go Dutch. Blauw aan de Wal (p122), Amsterdam modern French and Italian cuisine served in a delight-
Their biggest competitors are eetcafs, affordable pub-like eateries with a
Dont ask for a doggie huge local following. ful 17th-century warehouse; only a stones throw from the buzzing Red Light District.
bag. When the Dutch say caf theyre referring to a pub, also known as a kroeg, Blits (p216), Rotterdam exclusive international menu and cutting-edge architecture in a city
Dont cut off a tip on the and there are over 1000 of them in Amsterdam alone. Coffee is served but as famous for its cutting edges; what more can you ask for?
cheese cart (always slice). a sideline. Many cafs and pubs also serve food, but few open before 9am. A De Librije (p260), Zwolle triple-Michelin-star restaurant housed in a beautiful 500-year-old
Dont make loud
fixture in many cafs is an outdoor terrace that may be covered and heated monastery library; contemporary French and Dutch cuisine.
complaints about the
in winter. Here the Dutch soak up the outdoor atmosphere and pass the time
Parkheuvel (p216), Rotterdam another restaurant rated by the folk at Michelin (three stars).
service (usually counter-
chatting, people-watching or simply taking a break from everything.
French/International cuisine and seafood to die for.
productive).
The most famous type is the bruin caf (brown caf). The true specimen has
been in business for a while; expect sandy wooden floors and an atmosphere Bazar (p215), Rotterdam one of the finest Middle Eastern restaurants in the land, serving the
perfect for deep conversation. The name comes from the smoky stains on the best the region has to offer in suitably Arabic surroundings.
walls, although newer aspirants just slap on some brown paint. Vispaleis-Rokerij De Ster, Texel (p170) nothing fancy here, just fish freshly caught and cured,
Grand cafs are more spacious than brown cafs or pubs and have com- and a warm Texel welcome.
fortable furniture. Theyre all the rage, and any pub that puts in a few solid
 64 FOOD & DRINK Eating with Kids www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words 65

EATING WITH KIDS Food Glossary

The Netherlands is a kid-friendly country for eating out. Most restaurants appelmoes aplmoos apple sauce
and pubs will have kiddie meals on offer, if not a childrens menu, and high beenham baynham leg ham
chairs are often available. You might feel out of place taking infants into a belegd broodje blekht broatye filled sandwich
drop-dead trendy restaurant ask ahead when you make reservations. See boerenomelet boornoamlet omelette with vegetables and ham
p288 for more tips and information. dagschotel dakhskhoatl dish of the day
drop drop liquorice
HABITS & CUSTOMS frikandel freekandel deep-fried meat snack, like a sausage
At first take, it looks as though the Dutch arent all that fussed about food. hagelslag haakhlslakh chocolate sprinkles
Meals tend to be rushed, and quantity appears to win over quality. These Hollandse nieuwe hollands neew salted herring, first of the season
habits are slowly fading, however, and restaurant patrons are increasingly hoofdgerecht hoaftkhrekht main course
likely to linger over a multicourse dinner for a couple of hours, and to kroket kroaket meat croquette
expect high standards. Social events are in a class of their own, and diners nagerecht naakhrekht dessert
with something to celebrate might camp out in a restaurant for an entire pannekoek pankook pancake
evening. patat patat chips/French fries
Dinner usually takes place between 6pm and 9.30pm. Popular places poffertjes pofrtys mini pancakes
Windmills in my Oven by fill up by 7pm because the Dutch eat early; if this doesnt suit, aim for the speculaas spaykulaas spiced biscuit
Gaitri Pagrach-Chandraby second sitting from around 8.30pm to 9.30pm, when films, concerts and tosti tosti toasted sandwich
is a mix of Dutch baking, other performances start. Bear in mind that many kitchens close by 10pm, uitsmijter ytsmaytr fried egg, ham and cheese on bread
social commentary and although full-scale restaurants may still serve after midnight. Vlaamse frites vlaams freet thick chips/fries made from whole potatoes
regional customs, and Many places list a dagschotel (dish of the day) that will be good value, but vlammetjes vlamtys spicy spring rolls
a few tasty recipes are dont expect a culinary adventure. The trend in some places is to limit the voorgerecht voarkhrekht starter
thrown in for good menu to several options that change regularly; in this case the food can be
measure. quite exciting. COOKING TERMS
Coffee breaks are a national institution and occur frequently throughout gaar khaar well done
the day. Restaurants will serve a single cookie or biscuit with coffee, but in gebakken khbakn baked/fried
homes youll be offered one per cup. gebraden khebraadn roasted
Many restaurants dont accept credit cards; for tipping advice, see p294. gefrituurd khfreetuurt deep fried
gegratineerd khkhrateenayrt browned on top with cheese
EAT YOUR WORDS gegrild kh?khrilt grilled
Dutch restaurants are skilled in serving foreigners, so bilingual or English gegrild aan t spit khkhrilt aant spit spit-roasted
menus are practically the norm. Refer to the Language chapter (p314) for gekookt khkoakt boiled
tips on pronunciation. gepaneerd khpanayrt coated in breadcrumbs
gepocheerd khposhayrt poached
Useful Phrases gerookt khroakt smoked
A beer, please. geroosterd khroastrt toasted
n pils/beer alstubleeft Een pils/bier, alstublieft. gesauteerd khsoatayrt sauted
A bottle of wine, please. gestoofd khestoaft braised
n fles wayn Een fles wijn, alstublieft. gestoomd khstoamt steamed
Waiter!/Waitress! gevuld khvlt stuffed
obay/sr-veer-str Ober!/Serveerster! half doorbakken half doarbakn medium
May I see the menu/wine list? peper paypr pepper
makh ik het mnu/d wayn-kaart zeen Mag ik het menu/de wijnkaart zien? rood roat rare
Do you have a menu in English? suiker sykr sugar
hebt u n mnu in het engls Hebt u een menu in het Engels? zout zowt salt
Is that dish spicy?
is dit g-rekht pit-tkh Is dit gerecht pittig? DESSERTS
Im a vegetarian. amandelbroodje amandlbroaty sweet roll with almond filling
ik ben vay-khay-taa-ree-yr Ik ben vegetarir. appelgebak aplkhbak apple pie
Bon apptit. cake kayk cake
ayt sma-k-leek Eet smakelijk. ijs ays ice cream
It tastes good/bad. slagroom slakhroam whipped cream
het smakt le-kr/neet le-kr Het smaakt lekker/niet lekker. taart taart tart, pie, cake
May I have the bill, please? vla vlaa custard
makh ik d ray-k-ning alstubleeft Mag ik de rekening, alstublieft? wafel waafl waffle
66 FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words 67

DRINKS everzwijn ayvrzwayn boar

bier beer beer fazant fazant pheasant
brandewijn brandwayn brandy gevogelte khvoakhlt poultry
jenever (or genever) ynayvr Dutch gin beenham baynham ham on the bone
jus dorange/sinaasappelsap zhu doranzh/seenasaplsap orange juice hert hert venison
koffie kofee coffee kaas kaas cheese
koffie verkeerd kofee verkayrt latte kalfsvlees kalfsvlays veal
melk melk milk kalkoen kalkoon turkey
met melk/citroen met melk/seetroon with milk/lemon kip kip chicken
rood/wit roat/wit red/white konijn konayn rabbit
spa blauw (a brand) spaa blow still mineral water lamsvlees lamsvlays lamb
spa rood (a brand) spaa roat fizzy mineral water lever layvr liver
thee tay tea paard paart horse
water waatr water parelhoen paarlhoon guinea fowl
wijn wayn wine ribstuk ripstk rib steak
zoet/droog zoot/droakh sweet/dry rookworst roakworst smoked sausage
rundvlees rntvlays beef
FRUIT, VEGETABLES, STAPLES & SPICES schapenvlees skhaapvlays mutton
aardappel aartapl potato slak slak snail
appel apl apple spek spek bacon
artisjok arteeshok artichoke tong tong tongue
asperge asperzh asparagus varkensvlees varknsvlays pork
aubergine oabrzheen eggplant/aubergine vlees vlays meat
boon boan bean vleeswaren vlayswaarn cooked/prepared meats, cold cuts
champignon shampeenyon mushroom wild wilt game
courgette koorzhet zucchini/courgette worst worst sausage
erwt ert pea
groene paprika khroon papreeka green pepper (capsicum) SEAFOOD
groente khroont vegetable ansjovis anshoavis anchovy
kers kers cherry baars baars bream
knoflook knofloak garlic forel foarel trout
komkommer komkomr cucumber garnaal kharnaal shrimp, prawns, scampi
kool koal cabbage haring haaring herring
mas maees sweet corn inktvis ingtvis squid
olijf olayf olive kabeljauw kaabljow cod
peer payr pear krab krap crab
perzik perzik peach kreeft krayft lobster
peterselie paytrsaylee parsley maatjes maatys herring fillets
pompoen pompoon pumpkin makreel makrayl mackerel
prei pray leek oester oostr oyster
pruim prym plum paling paaling eel
rijst rayst rice rivierkreeft reeveerkrayft crayfish
rode paprika road papreeka red pepper (capsicum) roodbaars roatbaars red mullet
selderij seldray celery St Jacobsschelp sintyaakopskhelp scallop
sinaasappel seenasapl orange schol skhol plaice
sla slaa lettuce tong tong sole
spinazie speenaazee spinach tonijn tonayn tuna
spruitje spryty Brussels sprout vis vis fish
ui y onion zalm zalm salmon
witlof witlof chicory zeebaars zaybaars bass/sea bream
wortel wortl carrot
INDONESIAN DISHES
MEAT & POULTRY ayam ayam chicken
eend aynt duck babi pangang baabee panggang suckling pig with sweet and sour sauce
ei ay egg bami goreng baamee goareng stir-fry dish of noodles, veggies, pork and shrimp
68 FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words www.lonelyplanet.com

daging daging beef

gado-gado gaadoa gaadoa vegetables with peanut sauce
goreng goareng fried
kroepoek kroopook deep-fried prawn crackers
loempia loompeeya spring roll
nasi nasee rice
nasi goreng nasee goareng fried rice with meat and veggies
pedis paydis very spicy
pisang peesang banana
rendang rendang stewed beef in dry hot sauce
rijsttafel raysttaafl a selection of spicy meats, fruits,
vegetables and sauces served with rice
sambal sambal chilli paste
sat satay peanut sauce
seroendeng sroondeng fried coconut
taug towgay bean sprouts
 69

Cycling in the
Netherlands
No matter what shape youre in or what age you are the Netherlands is a
country to explore by bicycle. Even if its only a day pedalling along Amster-
dams canals, or a couple of hours rolling through green polder landscape,
its more than worth it, and youll be rewarded with the sense of freedom
(and fun) only a bicycle can offer.
With around 20,000km of bike paths and a largely flat landscape, theres
even more reason to hop on a bike and do as the locals do. And every
local seems to be doing it; the Netherlands has more bicycles than its 16
million citizens. Youll see stockbrokers in tailored suits riding alongside
pensioners and teenagers, and mutual tolerance prevails. Many Dutch own
at least two bikes, a crunchy beast for everyday use and a nicer model for
excursions. No mistake, bikes rule and almost everyone is satisfied with
the status quo.

INFORMATION
Your first stop is the ANWB, the Dutch motoring association, with offices
in cities across the country. Its website, www.anwb.nl (in Dutch), lists all its
national offices; choose Contactformulier from the drop-down menu at the
top left of the page, then click on Adressen to locate the one nearest you.
Otherwise, call %08000503 for information.
ANWB has a bewildering selection of route maps as well as camping, Bicycle Touring Holland by
recreation and sightseeing guides for cyclists. Its 1:100,000 series of 20 re- Katherine Widing details
gional maps includes day trips of 30km to 50km, all well signposted (look for over 50 bike excursions
six-sided signs with green or red print on a white background). Other maps throughout the country;
include Topografische Atlases, with scales of 1:25,000 and 1:50,000. its heavy on practical
Staff will help once you prove membership of your own motoring information and very
association, or you can join the ANWB for 16.50 per year. Many tourist comprehensive.
offices also sell ANWB materials and book cycling holidays.
A good starting point online is fiets.startpagina.nl (in Dutch); it lists
every conceivable website associated with cycling in the Netherlands (and a
handful of other countries too), whether the specific subject be cycle routes,
clubs or childrens bikes.

CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT

Wind and rain are all-too-familiar features of Dutch weather. A lightweight
nylon jacket will provide protection, and a breathing variety (Gore-Tex or
the like) stops the sweat from gathering. The same thing applies to cycling
trousers or shorts.
A standard touring bike is ideal for the Netherlands flat arena, and for
toting a tent and provisions. Gears are useful for riding against the wind,
or for tackling a hilly route in Overijssel or Limburg though the Alps it
aint. Other popular items include a frame bag (for a windcheater and lunch
pack), water bottles and a handlebar map-holder so youll always know where
youre going. Few locals wear a helmet, although theyre sensible protection,
especially for children.
Make sure your set of wheels has a bell: paths can get terribly crowded and
it becomes a pain if you have to ask to pass every time. Another necessity is
a repair kit. Most rental shops will provide one on request.
 70 C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S H i re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s 71

HIRE You may also wish to try trekkershutten, basic hikers huts available at
Rental shops are available in abundance. Many day trippers avail themselves many campsites. See p285 for more information.
of the train-station hire points, called Rijwiel shops, where you can park Many hostels, B&Bs and hotels throughout the country are well geared
and rent bikes and buy bicycle parts from early until late. Bike rental costs to cyclists needs; often those on some of the more popular cycle routes,
anything from 4 to 7 per day and 25 to 30 per week. Youll have to particularly along the coastline, market directly to tourists on two wheels.
show a passport or national ID card, and leave a credit-card imprint or pay
a deposit (usually 25 to 100). The main drawback is you must return the ROUTES
bike to the same station a problem if youre not returning to the same place. Youre spoilt for choice in the Nether-
Dutch trains Private shops charge similar rates but may be more flexible on the form of lands; a good starting point is the
have special deposit. In summer its advisable to reserve ahead, as shops regularly rent easy day trips found in the Er-op-Uit Southern Texel
Route
out their entire stock. book (5), available from train sta-
carriages for For a full list of Rijwiel shops around the country, go to www.ov-fiets tion bookshops and tourist infor-
loading two- .nl/waarhuur (in Dutch); Getting Around sections under individual towns mation offices. The more detailed
wheelers also list local rental options. Fietsgids Nederland (9.95, in Dutch), Waterland
Route
produced by the ANWB, is another
look for the ON THE TRAIN handy publication; it lists 50 popular Mantelingen
Route Baronie
bicycle logos You can take your bike on the train, but its often more convenient to rent cycle routes countrywide. Route

on the side one wherever youre going. A dagkaart fiets (bicycle day ticket) costs 6 If youre seeking more of an odys-
regardless of your destination. Collapsible bikes are considered hand luggage sey, there are droves of cross-country GERMANY
of the and go for free, provided theyre folded up. and international routes to harden BELGIUM Plateau
Route
carriage. Dutch trains have special carriages for loading two-wheelers look for the your calves. Most have a theme me-
bicycle logos on the side of the carriage. Remember that you cant take your dieval settlements, say, or some natu-
bike along during rush hour (6.30am to 9am and 4.30pm to 6pm Monday to ral feature such as rivers or dunes.
Friday). The Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS; Netherlands Railways) publishes The ANWB sells guides to signposted paths. These include the Noordzee- The site www.fiets
a free brochure, Fiets en Trein (Bike and Train, in Dutch), which provides route, a coastal trek from Den Helder along dunes and delta to Boulogne-sur- platform.nl (in Dutch)
plenty of information on rental, storage and transport of bicycles around Mer in France (470km), or the Saksenroute from the Waddenzee coast to has comprehensive
the Netherlands pick one up at the NS ticket counter. Twente in eastern Overijssel (230km). information on landelijke
Listed below are five excursions that provide a taster of what is available fietsroutes (LF routes;
ROAD RULES & SECURITY in the country; our best advice however is simply to rent a bike and head off long-distance routes)
Most major roads have separate bike lanes with their own signs and traffic in a direction that looks appealing. through the country.
lights. Generally, the same road rules apply to cyclists as to other vehicles,
even if few cyclists seem to observe them (notably in Amsterdam). In Waterland Route 37km, 3 to five hours
theory, you could be fined for running a traffic light or reckless riding, The eastern half of Waterland is culture-shock material: 20 minutes from
but it rarely happens. Watch out at roundabouts, where right of way may central Amsterdam you step centuries back in time. This is an area of isolated
be unclear. farming communities and flocks of birds amid ditches, dykes and lakes.
Be sure you have one or two good locks. Hardened chain-link or T-hoop
varieties are best for attaching the frame and front wheel to something solid. WATERLAND ROUTE 0
0
2 km
1 mi
However, even the toughest lock wont stop a determined thief, so if you
have an expensive model its probably safer to buy or rent a bike locally. N247
Marken

Noordhollands Kanaal
Monnickendam
Many train-station rental shops also run fietsenstallingen, secure storage
Gouwzee
areas where you can leave your bike for about 1.10 per day and 3.80 per
Watergang Broek in
week. In some places youll also encounter rotating bicycle lockers which Waterland
Waterland
se Zeedijk
can be accessed electronically. rt
ervaa Zuiderwoude
Landsmeer N235
Broek
Dont ever leave your bike unlocked, even for an instant. Second-hand
bikes are a lucrative trade, and hundreds of thousands are stolen in the Het
Schouw
Netherlands each year. Even if you report the theft to the police, chances of A10 N247 Uitdammer Die Uitdam

recovery are virtually nil. Holysloot

S117 Zunderdorp
k
dij
ACCOMMODATION Amsterdam
Noord am
m
er

Apart from the camping grounds listed in this book, there are plenty of td MARKERMEER
S116 Ui
S115
nature camp sites along bike paths, often adjoined to a local farm. They tend Schellingwouderdijk
Ransdorp
Kinselmeer
to be smaller, simpler and cheaper than the regular camping grounds, and Nieuwendammerdijk ijk
erd
many dont allow cars or caravans. The Stichting Natuurkampeerterreinen START/END dam
m
Het IJ rge
r
(Nature Campsites Foundation; www.natuurkampeerterreinen.nl, in Dutch) Centraal Station Du
Durgerdam Cycling Route
AMSTERDAM
publishes a map guide to these sites, on sale at the ANWB.


72 C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s 73

It takes a few minutes to get out of town. First, take your bike onto the free MANTELINGEN ROUTE 0
0
2 km
1 mi
Buiksloterwegveer ferry behind Amsterdams Centraal Station across the IJ
river. Then continue 1km along the west bank of the Noordhollands Kanaal. NORTH SEA Dunes
To Goes
es (20km)
Cross the second bridge, continue along the east bank for a few hundred Dun
Walcheren Forest
N57
metres and turn right, under the freeway and along Nieuwendammerdijk Slikkenbosch Vroonweg
Noorddijk
past Vliegenbos camping ground. At the end of Nieuwendammerdijk, do 8 Vrouwenpolder
START/END
a dogleg and continue along Schellingwouderdijk. Follow this under the 9 Oostkapelle Po
lre
dij
k Ve
two major road bridges, when it becomes Durgerdammerdijk, and youre Domburg
N287
er
se
M
on your way. 4
ee
r

Baa
The pretty town of Durgerdam looks out across the water to IJburg, a major 4

yen
4 5
Gapingse Dreef 7
land-reclamation project that will eventually house 45,000 people. Further Aagtekerke 6

Hovenseweg
Serooskerke
1 St Jan ten
north, the dyke road passes several lakes and former sea inlets low-lying, Heere
Gapinge
Veere

drained peatlands that were flooded during storms and now form important 2
3
laa
twe
g
Pre
bird-breeding areas. Colonies include plovers, godwits, bitterns, golden-eyes, Westkapelle
1 Westkapelse Zeedijk
2 Lighthouse
snipes, herons and spoonbills. Climb the dyke at one of the viewing points 3 De Ark
4 Farmhouses
for uninterrupted views to both sides. 5 De Hoop
The road now called Uitdammerdijk passes the town of Uitdam, after N57 6 Vliedberg
After visiting which you turn left (west) towards Monnickendam (p155). Alternatively, Cycling Route To Middelburg
7
8
Campveerse Toren
Kasteel Westhove
Zoutelande 9 Zeeuws Biologisch Museum
Marken, you could turn right and proceed along the causeway to the former island (500m)

you could of Marken (p156). After visiting Marken, you could take the summer ferry
to Volendam (p156) and backtrack along the sea dyke to Monnickendam. Mantelingenroute will lead you to the village of Serooskerke and, just to the
take the Or you could return over the causeway from Marken and pick up our tour east, a cheerily renovated windmill and farmyard tavern, De Hoop. Its a
summer ferry again towards Monnickendam. These diversions to Marken and (especially) great spot for an afternoon snack of strawberry waffles.
to Volendam Volendam would add significantly to the length of your trip (55km, seven From De Hoop, continue on along Gapingse Dreef towards Veere (p226),
to 10 hours). and youll soon stumble across a vliedberg, an artificial rise laid in the 12th The route
and back- From Monnickendam, return the way you came (if you came by the century as a defence post and refuge in times of floods. Veere itself sits on
track along first route, not by one of the Marken diversions), but about 1.5km south of the south shore of the Veerse Meer, a large lake created when an arm of the
swings past
the sea dyke town turn right (southwest) towards Zuiderwoude. From there, continue North Sea was closed off. the towns
to Broek in Waterland (p154), a pretty town with old wooden houses. Then The route swings past the towns enormous Vrouwekerk to the Markt; enormous
to Monnick- cycle along the south bank of the Broekervaart canal towards Het Schouw turn right to glimpse the Campveerse Toren, towers which formed part of
endam. on the Noordhollands Kanaal. Cross the Noordhollands Kanaal (the bridge the old city fortifications. Continuing west along the quay in Veere, youll
Vrouwekerk
is slightly to the north); bird-watchers may want to head up the west bank pass a row of handsome 19th-century houses; at the bridge, turn around for to the Markt;
towards Watergang and its bird-breeding areas. Otherwise, follow the west an idyllic scene worthy of a snapshot. turn right to
bank back down to Amsterdam Noord. From here its straight cycling all From the town head northwest along the Veerse Meer and cross over the
the way to the ferry to Centraal Station. N57 road; here begins the chain of dunes that protect the Walcheren Forest
glimpse the
from the North Sea. This leafy expanse between the coast and polders (drained Campveerse
Mantelingen Route 35km, three hours lands) gives the route its name, Manteling, which roughly translates as mantle Toren
Depart from t Groentje, an eastern suburb of Domburg (p227), a popular or overcoat. The path then turns west (left) along the southern edge of the
beach resort in the southwest coastal province of Zeeland; its tourist office dunes and becomes dark and leafy in the Slikkenbosch forest.
has a list of bicycle-hire shops. Near the end of the journey, as you turn left (south) away from the dunes,
If youre up for the full tour via Westkapelle (making the trip 48km and youll pass close by Kasteel Westhove (p227), a 16th-century fort that was
about 3 to 4 hours long), head west along the coastal path past the golf once the pride of powerful local deacons. Today it houses a youth hostel;
course. Relish a split view of the earth atop the Westkapelse Zeedijk, a in the adjacent orangery theres the Zeeuws Biologisch Museum (Zeeland
protective sea wall erected following the great flood of 1953. Once youre Biology Museum) and a garden of local flora.
in the former fishing village of Westkapelle, take note of the odd church-
lighthouse; the church burnt down in 1831, but the lighthouse was rebuilt Baronie Route 52km, four to five hours
on the solitary tower. Head east out of Westkapelle towards Aagtekerke The province of Noord Brabant in the south of the country has a definite
and keep to the path marked Dorpenroute, which follows Prelaatweg. Flemish-Belgian feel to it, in the cuisine and the ornate architecture. The
The area suddenly becomes a green and pleasing pastureland, and the tall Baronie is the area around the town of Breda (p275), which belonged to the
hawthorn hedges part to reveal the lovely pension De Ark about a third of princedom of Brabant until the 17th century; the counts of Nassau resided
the way along. here between 1403 and 1567.
For the shorter tour, turn south from Domburg along the signposted The starting point is Breda train station, which has a bicycle-hire shop
Mantelingenroute path. This region explodes with flowers in season and (p277). The gravel and sand Baronieroute (well signposted) leads alongside
is rightfully known as the garden of Zeeland. The meadows are typically the municipal park to Bredas 16th-century kasteel (fort), which houses a
dotted with schuren, tarred farmhouses with green doors. Sticking to the military academy. It takes a while to get out of town, as you pass through the
 74 C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s 75

BARONIE ROUTE 0
0 1 mile
2 km
Belgian and Dutch governments finally settled a 150-year difference in 1995;
Breda as a result, Belgian territory grew by 2600 sq metres.
Train Station
Before you reach Baarle-Nassau, veer right and youll eventually pass
START/END
8 the village of Chaamdijk and a pretty heath, the Strijbeekse Heide. Just
beyond, at the village of Galder, you can cross the bridge and turn right
into the Bovenmark Forest before doubling back to the main path, the

Frieslandroute (LF9). Cross highway A1 to reach the forestry station at
A58 BREDA Mastbos, but take care with the loose sand and rocks on the final stretch Defining
back into Breda. features
of this trip

To Tilburg Plateau Route 35km, three to four hours
A58 (8km)
The suggestion is its flat as a Dutch pancake, but make no mistake, this route include
7 Raakeind
Ulvenhout is the hilliest in our selection. Most ascents are merciful and easily conquered windmills,
Gilze with the aid of gears. Defining features of this trip include windmills, sprawl-
sprawling

A1
ing castles and lovely rolling farmland.
1
From the bike shop at Maastricht train station, head southeast beneath castles and
Notsel Rakens
the underpass and follow the bike route marked LF6a and/or Bemelen. Its lovely rolling
2
a 10-minute ride to the city limits. At the ANWB map board Knooppunt 6
farmland.

To Dordrecht
(32km)
Boswachterij
Ulvenhout
you join the Plateauroute; follow the route north (left), then east (right), to
6
en Chaam the small town of Bemelen.
Galder
At the hamlet St Antoniusbank you leave the paved road behind, passing
5
Chaam an abandoned lime kiln on your ascent to the panorama over a limestone

Strijbeek
quarry. Its no surprise, then, that Limburg is peppered with structures built
Chaamdijk from the ochre-coloured mineral. A few kilometres on stands the cheery
Van Tienhovenmolen windmill (open every second and fourth Saturday
3 of the month).

Alphen

0 3 km
Meerle
Kwaalburg PLATEAU ROUTE 0 2 miles

4 Meerssen

Rotherm
Houthem
A79 Valkenburg

BELGIUM 1 Prinsebos
2 Route Marker 23570
3 Gothic Chapel Berg
4 Bels Lijntje Baarle-Nassau
5 Strijbeekse Heide Schin op Geul
6 Bovenmark Forest
7 Mastbos
8 Breda's Kasteel Cycling Route To Turnhout
(16km) Bemelen
START/END Sibbe
2 3 4

follow the suburb of Ginneken, but eventually youll reach a lush forest, Boswachterij
Ulvenhout en Chaam, which lies southeast of the town. Between Ulvenhout Maastricht 1
Maastrichtse and Alphen you can pedal about 15km on continuous forest paths. In the Cadier en Keer
Scheulder
Baan (Maas- Prinsebos (Princes Forest), planted in the early 20th century, you may see
9
tricht Route) sturdy Brabant horses at work hauling timber. A2 Margraten
At route marker 23570 you can either turn right to reach Chaam, a 8 Gulpen
towards Protestant village amid predominantly Catholic Brabant, or follow the Honthem
N278
5
Alphen, the Maastrichtse Baan (Maastricht Route) towards Alphen, the birthplace of Short Cut
6
Bruisterbosch
birthplace of artist Vincent Van Gogh. Shortly before Alphen youll pass a Gothic chapel Euverem 7
from the 16th century but the tower was built after WWII. From here a
artist Vincent number of routes cross over into Belgium, including the Smokkelaarsroute
Van Gogh. (Smugglers Route). 1
2
Knooppunt 6 Map Board
St Antoniusbank Banholt
The path here is pretty and follows the old Bels Lijntje (Belgium Line), the 3
4
Lime Kiln
Van Tienhovenmolen
train line opened in 1867 to link Tilburg with Turnhout. The last passenger 5
6
Pannekoekenmolen
Kasteel Neubourg
train ran in 1934; the route was converted to a cycle path in 1989. 7 Trout Pond
8 Netherlands American Cemetery & Memorial
If you have time, stop off for a look around the town of Baarle-Nassau, 9 De Heeg Windmill Cycling Route
which has been the subject of border disputes since the 12th century. The


Lonely Planet Publications
76 C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C YC L I N G I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S R o u t e s 77

At the roundabout thats watched over by a limestone sculpture about 1km SOUTHERN TEXEL ROUTE 0
0 2 miles
4 km

on from the windmill, take a right into Sibbe. The imposing pile on your left is

nkit
the Sibbehuis, a 14th-century castle thats now a private residence. The route is Mole

cas terdijk
NORTH

g
rwe
a bit unclear in the village; follow signs to Gulpen. From Scheulder where, if SEA
N501 Oosterend

nde
De
Staa
desired, you can halve the journey via a short cut labelled Route Afkorting rt

uwla

Lan
3

weg
you whiz through planted fields and finally downhill into the beer-brewing Californieweg

Nie
Lunchtime is

heather

er
d De Waal
town of Gulpen. Lunchtime is wisely spent at the Pannekoekenmolen, a lan

Ploeg
eg
Monnike nw
wisely spent pancake house in a historic water mill tucked away at Molenweg 2a. To get

Gre

Ran

Po
there, turn left off Rijksweg/N278 at the traffic light onto Molenweg.

nsw
at the Panne-

dw
W

nt
START/END

este

eg

we
weg

eg
Here we suggest a detour to avoid the busy main road. From the pan- De Dennen Den Burg ijks

g
eg

r sl a
Kad
koekemolen,

ngw

g
cake house, proceed southeast along cycle path 85, a leafy trail that affords ela
ens
weg Ve

eg

Ha
ter
a pancake glimpses of the turreted Kasteel Neubourg, a medieval castle (closed to the 1

lle
es

akw
heather Hoge
W Drieh

rw
l
tev Berg

eg
Sch
uiz
house in public). After the trout pond, take the first right towards Euverem, where Sch

Nat
en ilde
2 rwe

ans
i
oo N501 g
you turn left to rejoin the Plateauroute. slag er k lho
f

we
ye emm DooOudeschild
a historic H

Rom m
Van A

g
The home stretch to Maastricht is quite countrified, with memorable eg est
merw rge
Hem

Weste
water mill

e
views of mixed woodlands and livestock wandering the pastures. Pretty heather

lpot
te
Red ou
Am
half-timbered houses grace the tidy farm villages where fresh potatoes, g Klif Hoornd
erweg ali
aw
ersla

Sto M
eg

Watermolenweg
apples and strawberries are sold to passers-by. In tiny Banholt sheep graze nd

lpw okweg
Den

or

eg
Ho

eg
Hoorn
peacefully in the town square.

w
Waddenzee

nt

e
ed
Po
Reminders of a grim era lie in Margraten, about 2km northeast of Honthem,

R
De
Mokslo Mo
at the Netherlands American Cemetery and Memorial (p283). ot lwer
k
Onward from the hamlet Cadier en Keer you can coast downhill towards 't Horntje
Maastricht, taking care not to miss the sharp right at the windmill in De
Heeg. At the Knooppunt 6 map board, bear left on Bemelerweg towards Hors

Maastricht train station. Of the

1 Tourist Office
2 Sheep Pens boulder clay
Southern Texel Route 30km, three hours To Den Helder
3 Ecomare Cycling Route
mounds
The Wadden islands are a cyclists paradise. Long stretches of sand dunes are (4km)

complemented by pockets of woodland and large swaths of fertile farmland, dotting the
and the North Sea and Waddenzee are never very far away. Of the five islands, the Hoge Berg region. Of the boulder clay mounds dotting the island, Hoge island, Hoge
Texel (p167) is easily the biggest and far and away the most visited, but it Berg is the most distinctive; it still sports stolp farms, garden walls and sheep
also offers the most diversity. pens reminiscent of times past. Look for the Texelroute sign and keep to the
Berg is the
Begin this tour around the southern reaches of the island in Den Burg, right this will lead you up Westergeest, left onto Schansweg, then right most
Texels quiet capital, where youll find a couple of bike-rental shops. Head into Doolhof. Along Doolhof is one of the few sheep pens (large, A-frame distinctive
west out of the town past the tourist office (p167) and right (north) onto houses which look as though theyve been sliced in two) whose front is not
the islands main road, the N501; its bike path is quite separate from what facing east.
little traffic the island receives. Grazing sheep and fluorescent green polders At the next junction turn left up Skillepaadje and cross Schilderweg into
mark the path to your left and right, and at Monnikenweg turn west (left) Hallerweg, which will lead you back to Den Burg.
in the direction of the North Sea. Before you know it youll enter De Den-
nen, Texels peaceful pine forest; it was initially planted for timber but has
thankfully been left to run its own course. Not far into the forest turn right
onto Ploeglanderweg and make a beeline for Ecomare (p167), an outstanding
nature centre and refuge for sick seals found in the surrounding waters. After
a mesmerising hour watching the seals effortless water play, head south to-
wards De Dennen, this time taking Randweg, a little-used road that meanders
through the forest. Randweg soon turns into Nattevlakweg, which makes a
dogleg and leaves the forest to join Rommelpot. Come springtime along this
path, bright fields of tulips on your left are juxtaposed with the expansive
heath to the right, which holds back the encroaching sand dunes.
At the junction of Rommelpot and Klif the route turns left into Den Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Hoorn, arguably the islands prettiest village. This is a good place to recharge restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
the batteries, before following Mokweg south to rising sand dunes; here the only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
path turns left on Molwerk and hugs the dunes until Texels port, t Horntje.
From t Horntje, take De Rede northeast along one of the islands protective everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
dykes; when it hits Redoute, turn left and then take the first right to enter the above - Do the right thing with our content.
 Lonely Planet Publications
AMSTERDAM 78 www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM History 79

AMSTERDAM
HISTORY members included poet Johnny the Selfkicker

Amsterdam A small fishing town named Aemstelredamme

emerged in around 1200. The community was
freed by the count of Holland from paying
and Bart Huges, an open-minded fellow
who drilled a hole in his forehead to achieve
enlightenment (see the boxed text, p31).
tolls on its locks and bridges, and Amster- During that decade, Amsterdam was
dam developed into a major seaport. known as Europes Magic Centre, the crux
Calvinist brigands captured Amsterdam in of a utopian dream where people believed
1578, and the seven northern provinces, led anything could happen. Although the days of
Amsterdams always been a liberal place, ever since the Golden Age, when it led European by Holland and Zeeland, declared themselves excess have been somewhat neutered, much
art and trade. Centuries later, in the 1960s, it again led the pack this time in the principles a republic. The stage was set for the Golden of that famous swagger is still evident (and in
of tolerance, with broad-minded views on drugs and same-sex relationships taking centre Age, when merchants and artisans flocked some cases, institutionalised and parodied, as
stage. Today the cannabis coffeeshops and the Red Light District are still the citys top to Amsterdam and a new class of moneyed in the Red Light District; in fact, if you arrive
intellectuals was born. here on Koninginnedag see p117 you
drawcards, even if that can sometimes wear thin for the locals. But Amsterdams more than By the late 17th century Holland couldnt might think it never went away).
just an X-rated theme park for weekend warriors. match the might of France and England, but In the 70s city planners proposed a metro
when the countrys first railway opened in line through the Nieuwmarkt neighbourhood,
Quite simply, its among the most distinctive of all European cities (its certainly one of 1839 the city was revitalised in a stroke. earmarking a large portion of the derelict dis-
the most eccentric). And it may well be the most beautiful, with its breathtakingly scenic, During the latter part of that century, Am- trict to be razed. When the inhabitants turned
heritage-protected 17th-century housing and ubiquitous canals. Other cities in Europes sterdammers were certainly buoyant and in to squatting, the area was violently cleared
premier league are nothing if not monumental, but Amsterdam by contrast is irreverent, feisty mood as the Eel Riot of 25 July 1886 on 24 March 1975, a day fixed in history as
proves. At the time, the sport of eel pulling Blue Monday.
intimate and accessible: you can walk across the city centre in around 30 minutes, less
was very popular throughout the city. The In the 60s families and small manufactur-
by bike, and the place has enough sensory delights to keep the shortest attention spans rules were very simple: a rope would be sus- ers dominated inner-city neighbourhoods;
occupied. All of the major sights are found in or near the city centre: some of the conti- pended over a canal, with a live eel attached by the early 90s theyd been replaced by
nents best museums and galleries nestle among attractions that are just plain quirky or to it. Underneath, competitors in boats would professionals and a service industry of pubs,
silly but always fun. try to grab the poor creature, with the ever- coffeeshops, restaurants and hotels. Non-
present threat of landing in the water adding Dutch nationalities made up 45% of the popu-
Walk or bike around the canal grid, down the historic lanes of the Jordaan district or a frisson to the proceedings. lation and the citys success in attracting large
When the authorities made the game foreign businesses resulted in an influx of
through the Plantage and bask in the many worlds-within-worlds that make Amsterdam
illegal denouncing it as a cruel, popular higher-income expatriates.
so thoroughly addictive. amusement the Jordaan erupted in riots so
intense and pitched that 25 people died from ORIENTATION
gunshot wounds inflicted by the police. Centraal Station is the citys hub. From the
The first part of the 20th century was char- station the streets radiate outward across the
acterised by more trouble, as unemployment, network of canals. The Dam is the heart, a 10-
HIGHLIGHTS depression and WWI took their toll. After minute walk southwest of the station. Leidse-
WWII, growth resumed with US aid (the plein is the centre of (mainstream) Amsterdam
Do a time-honoured circuit of the lush Marshall Plan). nightlife, and Nieuwmarkt (southeast of the
Vondelpark (p107) However, in 1955 the French philosopher station) is a vast cobblestone square with open-
Jordaan Albert Camus wrote, Have you noticed that air markets and popular pubs. The Red Light
Hail the power of art at the world-class
Rijksmuseum (p106) Amsterdams concentric canals resemble District (south of the station and east of the
the circles of hell? The middle-class hell, of Dam) is bounded by Zeedijk, Nieuwmarkt
Breathe in the smoky atmospherics of the
course, peopled with bad dreams. and Kloveniersburgwal in the east; Damstraat,
Jordaan (p100)
How incredible, then, to see the next few Oude Doelenstraat and Oude Hoogstraat in
Immerse yourself in the extraordinary output decades unfold. the south; and Warmoesstraat in the west.
of the eponymous Vincent at the Van Gogh In the 1960s students occupied the admin- Lush, 17th-century homes occupy the
Museum (p106) istrative centre of the University of Amster- western canals Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht
Vondelpark
Lose yourself in a sea of humanity at the Van Gogh Rijksmuseum dam, and the womens movement began a and Herengracht. The Jordaan is filled with
Albert Cuypmarkt (p107), where the Museum campaign that fuelled the abortion debate quirky shops, bohemian bars and art galleries.
diversity of the city comes together Albert Cuypmarkt
throughout the next decade. Meanwhile, Outside the canal belt is ethnic-influenced
pranksters, anarchists and radicals began a De Pijp; posh and residential Oud Zuid, east
systematic programme to derail conservative of the Damrak-Rokin axis; and Nieuw Zuid,
attitudes with a peculiarly Amsterdammer to the west of the axis, with its 20th-century
dose of absurdism. Nowhere was this more housing projects. The Eastern Docklands is a
TELEPHONE CODE: 020 POPULATION: 743,000 evident than in the antics of the Provos, whose showcase of modern Dutch architecture.
AMSTERDAM 80 AMSTERDAM Information www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM Dangers & Annoyances 81

AMSTERDAM
Laundry Telephone
AMSTERDAM IN Clean Brothers (Map pp92-3; %622 02 73; Kerkstraat For information about mobile phones, phone
Two Days 56) codes, public telephones and phonecards,
Begin at the Anne Frank Huis (p102), then scoot across town to the Rijksmuseum (p106) and Happy Inn (Map pp92-3; %624 84 64; Warmoesstraat see p295.
the Van Gogh Museum (p106). Dive into the Albert Cuypmarkt (p107), before coming up for 30; hclosed Sun)
air (and lunch) at Bazar (p126). In the afternoon, stop off for a smoke at Siberi (p129), then Wasserette Rozengracht (Map p91; %638 59 75; Toilets
follow the conga line to the Red Light District (p85). When the dopes worn off, order a mojito Rozengracht 59) There are no public toilets in Amsterdam.
at Caf Cuba (p127), before dining at the sumptuous Blauw aan de Wal (p122). On the second Your best bet is to slip into a department
day, hire a bike (p111) and see where you end up its all good, and well you know it. Left Luggage store, where youll pay the toilet attendants
At Centraal Station theres a left-luggage desk around 0.50.
Four Days downstairs from track 2, near the southeastern
Take in the two-day itinerary, but allow yourself time to explore in greater depth. For example, corner of the station. Storage costs 3 for 24 Tourist Information
after the Van Gogh Museum, take a walk around the Vondelpark (p107) and indulge in a spot hours. Tourist Office (VVV; %09004004040; www.vvv
of people-watching. Follow this by enjoying some classical music at the Concertgebouw (p107). amsterdam.nl); Centraal Station track 2 (Map pp88-9;
At night, drink at Lime (p127) and eat at Nomads (p123). Libraries Centraal Station; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun);
Centrale Bibliotheek (Map pp92-3; %523 09 00; Leidseplein 1 (Map pp92-3; h9.15am-5pm Sun-Thu, to
Prinsengracht 587; h1-9pm Mon, 10am-9pm Tue-Thu, 7pm Fri & Sat); Stationsplein 10 (Map pp88-9; h9am-
Maps Maison Descartes (Map pp92-3; %531 95 00; www 10am-5pm Fri & Sat, 1-5pm Sun) Wide range of English- 5pm Mon-Fri)
The maps in this book will probably be suf- .maisondescartes.com; Vijzelgracht 2A; h9.30am-4pm language newspapers and magazines. Free Internet.
ficient. Lonely Planets handy Amsterdam Mon-Fri, library 1-6pm Tue & Thu) Extension of Travel Agencies
City Map has a street index (in rain-proof the French consulate offering films, lectures and Media Kilroy Travels (Map pp92-3; %524 51 00; www
lamination) that covers most parts of town exhibitions. For details of national newspapers and maga- .kilroytravels.com; Singel 413-415; hnoon-6pm Mon,
in detail. The tourist offices also sell maps of zines, see p37. 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-4.30pm Sat).
the city centre. Discount Card Amsterdam Times Mainstream local news. In English. lastminute.com (%09004050607; www.nl.lastminute
I Amsterdam Card (per 24/36/72hr 33/43/53) Avail- Amsterdam Weekly (www.amsterdamweekly.nl) .com; per min 0.15)
INFORMATION able at VVV offices and some hotels. Includes admission Outstanding English-language paper, free every Wednes-
Bookshops to most museums, canal boat trips, and discounts and day. Offers creative, personal articles on life in Amsterdam DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
American Book Center (Map pp92-3; %625 55 37; freebies at shops, attractions and restaurants. Also includes plus useful classifieds. Theft is rare in hotel rooms, but its always
www.abc.nl; Kalverstraat 185) English-language books, a GVB transit pass. Het Parool (www.parool.nl) The lowdown on the wise to deposit valuables for safekeeping at the
travel guides, newspapers and magazines. capitals culture and politics. reception desk or, where available, in your in-
Architectura & Natura (Map pp88-9; %623 61 86; Emergency room safe. Theft is more common at hostels;
www.architectura.nl; Leliegracht 22; hMon-Sat) Charm- Emergency (%112) Police, ambulance, fire brigade. Medical Services bring your own lock for your locker.
ing canalside shop with art, architecture, design, landscape Police headquarters (%09008844; Elandsgracht 117) Centrale Doktersdienst (Central Doctors Service; Watch out for pickpockets in crowded
and coffee-table books. Sexual assault (%613 02 45) De Eerste Lijn (The First %592 33 33; h24hr) Doctor, dentist or pharmacy markets and on trams. Violent crime is rare,
Athenaeum Bookshop & Newsagency (Map pp92-3; Line) is a hotline for victims of sexual violence. referrals. especially involving foreigners.
%622 62 48; Spui 14-16) Enormous multilevel store with Onze Lieve Vrouwe Gasthuis (Map pp86-7; %599 Cars with foreign registration are popular
a vast assortment of unusual titles. Internet Access 91 11; Oosterpark 9) Hospital open 24 hours. targets for smash-and-grab theft. Dont leave
Book Exchange (Map pp88-9; %626 62 66; Kloven- Centrale Bibliotheek (Map pp92-3; %523 09 00; valuable items in the car; remove registration
iersburgwal 58) Second-hand books, many in English. Prinsengracht 587; h1-9pm Mon, 10am-9pm Tue-Thu, Money and ID papers and the radio/stereo if possible.
Galerie Lambiek (Map pp92-3; %626 75 43; www 10am-5pm Fri & Sat, 1-5pm Sun) The main library. Has American Express (Map pp88-9; %504 87 77; Damrak If something is stolen, get a police report
.lambiek.nl; Kerkstraat 78; hdaily) Tens of thousands of free Internet. 66; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) for insurance purposes, but dont expect the
titles of Dutch and worldwide comic-book art. easyInternetcaf (Map pp88-9; www.easyevery GWK (Map pp88-9; %09000566; Centraal Station; police to retrieve your property or apprehend
Scheltema (Map pp92-3; %523 14 11; Koningsplein thing.com/map/ams; Damrak 33; h9am-10pm) h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) Converts the thief.
20) Largest bookshop in town, with many foreign titles. Internet City (Map pp88-9; %620 12 92; Nieuwendijk travellers cheques and books hotel reservations; also at There are occasionally some junkie types
Waterstones (Map pp92-3; %638 38 21; Kalverstraat 76; h10am-midnight) Schiphol. around the Zeedijk and Gelderskade, and
152) English-language travel guides, maps and novels. Thomas Cook Dam (Map pp88-9; %625 09 22; Dam also on the Nieuwendijk near Centraal Sta-
Internet Resources 23-25; h9am-7pm); Damrak (Map pp88-9; %620 32 tion. Generally, they wont bother you if you
Cultural Centres www.amsterdamhotspots.nl Select the hottest spots 36; Damrak 1-5; h8am-8pm); Leidseplein (Map pp92-3; dont bother them.
British Council (Map pp92-3; %550 60 60; www to eat, drink, smoke, sleep and party down. %626 70 00; Leidseplein 31A;h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat,
.britishcouncil.nl; Weteringschans 85a) Manages educa- www.channels.nl Virtual tour of Dam with hotel and 10am-7.30pm Sun)
tional and cultural exchanges between the UK and the restaurant reviews. DOG SHIT
Netherlands. www.underwateramsterdam.com The site for Shark, Post Its everywhere. The Netherlands doesnt
De Balie (Map pp92-3; %553 51 00; www.debalie the monthly underground events zine. Main post office (Map pp88-9; %330 0555; Singel appear to have a pooper-scooper policy,
.nl; Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 10) Theatre, seminars, www.visitamsterdam.nl Official Netherlands Board of 250; h9am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, 10am- and Amsterdams streets are full of it.
political debates and lectures. Tourism site. 1.30pm Sat)
AMSTERDAM 82 AMSTERDAM Sights www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM Sights 83

AMSTERDAM
AN INSIDERS GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM, PART 1: STEVE KORVER Simon Sellars are a lot of new, smaller venues like Sugar Factory, Bitterzoet and Nieuwe Anita that are pumping
Steve Korver is the editor of the super periodical Amsterdam Weekly. Who could be better quali- both live music and good ol fashioned cosiness back into the mix. As for coffeeshops, remember:
fied, then, to give me the inside dirt on this wonderful city? you can do takeaway, kids!
Whats your favourite part of Amsterdam? Any foodie tips?
It varies and stretches further afield day by day as the inner city gets more and more organ- Fish stalls, for deep-throating herring the poor, working persons sushi. Perfect for people
ised. I like those funky bits that were always easy to find in De Pijp and Jordaan and along the on the move.
waterfront but are now getting scrubbed cleaner than clean. But the stereotypes are still nice: Can you tell me Amsterdams best-kept secret?
the canal girdle remains one of the planets most painfully scenic places, especially when the Nope.
water glows purple just before dawn. What are your favourite local slang or swear words?
Speaking of stereotypes, whats the least applicable? Too many to list: just pick a disease, any disease. Its ever evolving, here: todays curse is
The whole sex, drugs and rocknroll thang its there but mostly for the tourists. tomorrows Ajax football chant.
Has Theo van Goghs assassination (see the boxed text, p32) changed the disposition of Amsterdam equals bicycles so says the tourist board. Whats the downside?
Amsterdam and its people as much as weve been led to believe? Tourists on bikes thinking they are in Disneyland, totally oblivious to the fact that basic traffic
It was our September 11 it only took that one death in this tiny country to have a similar rules and precautions are just as relevant here as in any other city (see p111). Just because it all
effect. But after the initial hysteria flamed by populist politicians, things have mellowed and looks so cute, it doesnt mean you cant become road pizza. The same goes for pedestrians. And
people are doing what theyve done here forever: gathered as many parties around a table to its not just stoned backpackers visitors just forget to look both ways before crossing a street.
talk, talk, talkand, hopefully, hash out solutions. Theories abound as to why, but I havent figured it out yet.
Do you have a favourite Amsterdam experience? How has living in Amsterdam changed you?
Talking the shit with friends on a terrace on one of those first sunny days of spring. Its probably slowed me down to enjoy the smaller, more social things in life doing business
What film or book set in Amsterdam would you recommend for first-timers? over a coffee and a beer instead of over a desk.
Books: Amsterdam: A Brief Life of the City by Geert Mak, The Embarrassment of Riches by Simon Describe Amsterdam Weekly for someone new to it.
Schama, The Diary of Anne Frank, Blue Mondays by Arnon Grunberg, Brilliant Orange: The Neurotic We are an English-language alternative weekly but we still use plenty of Dutch especially when
Genius of Dutch Football by David Winners. its funny. We seek to be attached to the city and not detached. Our prime directive is to provide
Films: Diamonds Are Forever, Simon by Eddy Terstall, The Northerners by Alex van Warmerdam. a paper for culturally savvy Amsterdammers to help plan their weekend and go deeper into the
Your favourite nightspot? cultural workings of this very special city. Oh, and we like to kick city halls ass on occasion whenever
Im not telling. Everyones got to find their own. But do try to go local rather than endlessly they think they can change things from above and not from the ground up. We are the voice of
circling around the Red Light Districts inner pit. The Melkweg and Paradiso still rule, but there the grassroots, the subcultures that are always busy bubbling up towards the foreground.

Bicycles are numerous (see p111) and crooks, ask to see their police identity card take our tip and just wander (see the boxed Sint Nicolaaskerk (Map pp88-9; %624 87 49; Prins
can be dangerous for pedestrians. When (note that Dutch police dont have badges as text, p85). Hendrikkade 73; h11am-4pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Mon,
crossing the street look for speeding bikes ID). Then call the real cops at %09008844. services 10.30am & 1pm Sun, 12.30pm Mon-Sat), built
as well as cars; please dont stray into a bike Medieval Centre in 1887, is the citys main Catholic church.
lane without looking both ways. Cyclists, SIGHTS DAMRAK & OUDE ZIJDE The impressive interior features black marble
meanwhile, should take care to watch out The canal belt (p101) is Amsterdam at its Once part of the old harbour, Damrak today pillars and an ethereal bluish aura in the
for unwitting foreign tourists, and to lock most seductive: Golden Age faades, brown is an endless stretch of souvenir shops, bee- soaring dome. The high altar is unusual for
up their bikes. cafs, hidden courtyards. The Dam (p96) is tling bicycles, exchange bureaux and dodgy its depiction of Maximilians bulging yel-
the citys heart; throbbing Leidseplein (p102) hotels. East of the Damrak-Rokin axis is the low crown.
Drugs is a Dutch Times Square; Rembrandtplein Oude Zijde (Old Side) of the medieval city. The innovative News Photo (Map pp88-9; %330
Dont light up joints just anywhere without (p102) is a brash clubbers mecca; while the Its a misnomer: the Nieuwe Zijde (New 84 00; www.newsphoto.nl; Prins Hendrikkade 33; admission
asking permission. In general, stick to cof- ever-popular Nieuwmarkt (p98) hums with Side) to the west is actually older, though 5; h10am-6pm) displays enormous blow-ups
feeshops. Drugs are technically illegal but markets, cafs and pubs. You dont need us to the Oude Zijde absorbed the Red Light Dis- (up to 60m long) of headlining photos from
tolerated. See p293 for laws relating to hard tell you about the Red Light District (p85). trict in the 14th century. Originally, the city around the world. Themed exhibitions (ter-
and soft drugs. Outside the canal belt, theres multicultural didnt extend further south than Grimburg- rorism, the Tour de France etc) change every
De Pijp (p107) and the Oud Zuid (p105), posh wal, where the filled-in parts of the Rokin few weeks, and as news is made the curators
Scams and residential. end today. use giant printers to print out the latest pho-
Beware of thieves masquerading as police If you want top-line attractions, Amsterdam The gleaming, turreted marvel that is tos, which are then affixed to the magnetic
in plain clothes. Usually these fraudsters ad- delivers. The classical art circuit is an obvious Centraal Station (Map pp889) dates from 1889 walls. If you see a photo you like in the main
dress tourists in English, flash a false ID and route: with the world-class Van Gogh Museum and was the work of AL Ghent and Pierre Cuy- gallery, you can buy it right off the wall (at
demand to see money and credit cards for and Rijksmuseum within easy reach, youll pers, the master architects who also designed 100 per sq metre while the exhibition is
verification or some other nonsense. They be spoilt for choice. Then there are the thea- the Rijksmuseum and the Concertgebouw. running, half-price thereafter).
might also go through the victims pockets tres, the pubs, the coffeeshops, the cafs, the Centraals resemblance to the Rijksmuseum At the Sexmuseum Amsterdam (Map pp88-9;
and pretend to look for drugs. Dutch police churches we could tailor itineraries for you is easy to spot: a central section with Gothic %622 83 76; Damrak 18; admission 2.50; h10am-
rarely conduct this kind of search. To foil the until the cows come home. But, ultimately, towers and wings. 11.30pm), which lurks furtively behind a faade
AMSTERDAM 84 AMSTERDAM Sights www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM Sights 85

AMSTERDAM
NEIGHBOURHOODS DIY AMSTERDAM
Follow the canals, the crowds or that deserted side street. Or the colour; that sweet smell in the
air. Youre bound to trip over something that tickles you pink a museum devoted to bending
light, say, or a guy on his back playing keepy uppy with a football for hours on end. Perhaps
youll see a group of subversives reviving the banned sport of eel pulling (see p79).
Youll more likely find an ancient building tucked away out of sight, redolent with atmosphere
and begging to be read as a secret history of the city. Quite possibly, it wont be in this guide.
AMSTERDAM NOORD
(pp???-??) Let us know if it isnt. Or keep it to yourself well understand.
Above all, Amsterdams a unique template for city life that feels different for each individual
its a personalised urban psychogeography just waiting to be decoded.

NIEUWE
Light District, with rough-edged bars, hotels The district, known locally as De Wal-
ZIJDE and sex shops luridly rubbing shoulders with len, has for centuries been the undoing of
(pp???-??) some great old architecture. countless sailors with its houses of ill repute
WESTERN JORDAAN
CANAL BELT (pp???-??) East off Warmoesstraat is the citys old- and distilleries. The clientele has changed,
(pp???-??) NIEUWMARKT EASTERN
OUDE QUARTER ISLANDS est surviving building (built in 1306), the but the script hasnt, because business never
ZIJDE (pp???-??) (pp???-??) mighty Oude Kerk (Old Church; Map pp88-9; %625 82 stops: all day and night prostitutes give their
(pp???-??)
JODENBUURT PLANTAGE 84; www.oudekerk.nl; Oudekerksplein 23; adult/child 4.50/3.50; come-hither looks from big windows that line
SOUTHERN (pp???-??) (pp???-??) h11am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), built to honour the the canal. Some sections are in stereo with
CANAL BELT
(pp???-??) citys patron saint, St Nicholas (the inspiration windows on two floors.
for red-suited Saint Nick). In one of Europes Its seamy for sure, but the ambience is far
OUD ZUID great moral contradictions, the tower, argu- less threatening than in sex districts elsewhere.
(pp???-??) OOSTERPARK
(pp???-??) ably Amsterdams most beautiful, commands Pimps, drunks, weirdos, the fuzz, Salvation
DE PIJP
(pp???-??) a magnificent view one that includes the Red Army volunteers, nice girls and boys, and
Light District. Get closer to heaven on a tower respectable old-age pensioners all rub shoul-
NIEUW ZUID tour (%689 25 65; admission 40, up to 25 people). But ders and nothing else. Female sightseers are
(pp???-??) maybe the views no contradiction at all: some not assumed to be soliciting and tend to be
of the 15th-century carvings on the choir stalls left alone as long as they exercise a modicum
are downright naughty. Theres also a stunning of street sense.
Mller organ, gilded oak vaults and stained- Unless you want to end up in a canal along
glass windows from 1555. As in the Nieuwe with your camera, dont take photos. And if
Kerk, many famous Amsterdammers are buried you hear some guy whispering coke, acieeeeed,
under worn tombstones, including Rembrandts ecstasy, speed, china white, mother of pearl
AMSTELVEEN
(pp???-??) first wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh. what you need, then just walk on by. If want
The Allard Pierson Museum (Map pp92-3; %525 to look but not touch, try the live-sex club Casa
25 56; www.uba.uva.nl/apm; Oude Turfmarkt 127; adult/child Rosso (Map pp88-9; %627 89 54; Oudezijds Achterburgwal
reminiscent of a sweaty swords-and-sandals tors can roam the premises. The large central 5/2.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun), run by 106-108), with its marble penis fountain and
film, there are some mildly interesting arte- hall with its steel-and-glass roof was the the University of Amsterdam, has one of the rotating balls out front. Its far less threatening
facts: 14th-century Viennese erotica, for ex- Victorian-style trading floor for commodities worlds richest university-owned archaeologi- than other places: in the audience, grannies
ample, and Pompeian porn. But with plastic and colonial merchandise. The rich decora- cal collections, including an actual mummy, might mix with groovers, although more likely
derrieres farting at passers-by and an ani- tions here include three Art Deco tile mosaics ancient Greek and Mesopotamian vases, it will be like a cheery football crowd. Dont
matronic flasher, its more like a tribute to by Jan Toorop; stockbrokers distrusted these a wagon from the royal tombs at Salamis expect to be turned on: the actual show is as
Benny Hill. A sign warns, You could be works because of their anti-capitalist flavour. (Cyprus), and galleries stuffed to the wain- mechanical as the English football team.
shocked. Pull the other one. Be sure to check out the basement vaults, scoting with fascinating items providing real The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum (Map pp88-
The Beurs van Berlage (Map pp88-9; %530 41 where discreet patrons used to store their insight into daily life in ancient times. 9; %623 59 61; admission 5.70; Oudezijds Achterburgwal
41; www.beursvanberlage.net; Damrak 243; h11am-5pm stock certificates, money and jewellery. The 148; h11am-11pm) features exhibits that cover
Tue-Sun) is the old stock and commodities ex- clock tower affords a view of the old town, Red Light District dope botany; bongs, hookahs and pipes of
change designed by renowned architect HP and there are more Art Deco features in the Amsterdams famous Red Light District the world; the relationship between cannabis
Berlage. The functional lines and chunky caf on the Beursplein side. retains the power to bewilder, even if near- and religion; and the history of Amsterdam
square clock tower are landmarks of Dutch One of the original dykes on the Amstel naked prostitutes propositioning passers-by coffeeshops. Queen Victoria used marijuana
urban architecture, and today the one-time river ran along Warmoesstraat (Map pp889), from black-lit windows is the oldest Amster- for menstrual cramps, it says here
Bourse is a cultural centre and home to the where the citys wealthiest merchants used to dam clich. If you feel a twinge of desire, its
Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra. Visi- live (it up). Today its an outgrowth of the Red around 50 for 20 minutes. (Continued on page 96)



GREATER
86

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sewe

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d
5 Ringweg Zui OVER g 5
ENTERTAINMENT Nieuwe Haagseweg

kle
Amstelveenseweg AMSTEL
11............................................(see 17) Oude Haagseweg 18 DIEMEN

rwe

RAI Zorgvlied

g
Bimhuis.......................................35 F2

J Muysken e Utrechtseweg
VU Cemetery
To Haarlem Het Ketelhuis.............................36 D2

Ra
(19km)
Europaboulevard

Movies.......................................37 E2

nd
Amstelveenseweg

BUITENVELDERT

Nieuw

w
Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ...........(see 35) Het Nieuwe DUIVENDRECHT

eg
A J Ernststr

weg
Panama.....................................38 G3 Meer Ri
Rialto Cinema.............................39 E4 ng
Buitenveldertselaan

we Overamstel Diemen-Zuid
To Night..................................(see 25) g
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Be
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JM
NIEUWEMEER Van der Madeweg

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6 dre 6
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Amsterdamse Bos Volkstuinenpark Daal
Uilenstede Dijkzicht
Amstel To Amsterdam ArenA Stadium (3km); Amsterdamse ree
f
AMSTELVEEN To Ouderkerk aan Borchland Sportcentrum (3km); Golfclub BIJLMERMEER erd
lm
To CoBrA de Amstel (5km); Heineken Music Hall (3km); Strandvliet/Arena Bij
Schiphol Airport Museum Utrecht (35km) Pepsi Stage (3km)
 A B C D E F
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83 Grimburgwal See Southern Canal Belt & De Pijp Map (ppXXXXX)

0.2 miles

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poort

0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
90 AMSTERDAM CENTRE (pp88-89) JORDAAN & WESTERN ISLANDS 91

A B C D Br
de Br ou
INFORMATION Statue of Queen Wilhelmina...... 51 C8 Lime...........................................98 E6 STAATSLIEDEN/FREDERIK HENDRIKBUURT ka ou w
sau we er
sg
American Express......................... 1 C6 Theater Instituut Nederland....... 52 A6 Lokaal t Loosje...........................99 E7 as Br rs r

r
INFORMATION N Palmg ou
w
gr

r
ac

st
Architectura & Natura Bookshop.. 2 A5 Torensluis...................................53 B5 Pilsener Club.............................100 B8 COC Amsterdam....................................1 C5 er

en
1e Marnixplantsoen sg ht

itt
rt r

de

Palm
Book Exchange............................. 3 D8 Trippenhuis.................................54 E7 Proeflokaal Fockink.................. 101 D7 Pink Point.............................................. 2 D4 1

nsg cht
aa

ka
de

e
nv

en
Vrouwen in Druk................................... 3 D4 ska

D
easyInternetcaf........................... 4 D5 Westindisch Huis........................ 55 C3 Suite......................................... 102 C5

a
Cat r

de
re Palmst

dwars
r
itt

Lijn ansgr
lo b

ka
Jaco

W
Wasserette Rozengracht Laundry........... r 4 C5 16
Happy Inn Laundry.......................5 E5 Yellow Bike Tours....................... 56 C5

en
e ot

e
stv

baa
D
enslo

itt

str
ba
o

W
Intermale......................................6 B7 Zuiderkerk..................................57 E8 ENTERTAINMENT Katt

t
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES K

rach

Lijn
(pp1001)

str
e
de

D
Internet City................................. 7 D4 Abraxas.................................... 103 B7 ska
Cat

rnix
Anne Frank Huis.................................... 5 D4 JORDAAN

gelg

See Amsterdam Centre

b
Main Post Office.......................... 8 A6 SLEEPING (p118) Amsterdams Marionetten Felix Meritis Building.............................. 6 D6 Jaco sstr

Ma
Willem

Sin
Mantrav........................................9 E7 Aivengo Youth Hostel................ 58 C4 Theater.................................104 F6 Homomonument................................... 7 D4

Houseboat Museum...............................8 C6

Map (pp889)
Thomas Cook............................. 10 C7 Ambassade Hotel....................... 59 A8 Argos....................................... 105 D6

Lod T
tr
Pianola Museum....................................9 D2 Fagels sbloe
mstr
Thomas Cook.............................11 E4 Black Tulip Hotel.........................60 F5 Barney's....................................106 B2 Goud

ade

1e Lin
ripstr
Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam..10 C5
ngr

2e Lind
Tourist Office..............................12 E4 Canal House Hotel..................... 61 A4 Beurs van Berlage.....................(see 17) Linde

nixk
Westerkerk.......................................... 11 D4

densw
Vrolijk......................................... 13 B7
Flying Pig Downtown Hostel...... 62 D4 Bethaninklooster.....................107 E7

Mar
r
deng

endwar
SLEEPING (pp11920) Lin

arstr
Winston International...............(see 67) Hampshire Classic Hotel Casablanca...............................108 E5
Budget Hotel Clemens..........................12 D5
Toren..................................... 63 A5 Cockring.................................. 109 D5

sstr
Dylan................................................... 13 D6 2

r
str

nsg
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp8399) Hotel Brouwer............................ 64 C5 Cotton Club..............................110 E7 Hotel Pulitzer.......................................14 D5 Linden

baa
Amsterdams Historisch Museum..14 B8 Hotel Groenendael..................... 65 D3 Greenhouse............................. 111 D7 Frederik Hendrikplantsoen 15 C4
Hotel Van Onna...................................

Lijn
Bartolottihuis.............................. 15 A6 Hotel Pax................................... 66 A6 Grey Area.................................112 B5 zersstr Boom
str

1e A
EATING (p123) Karthui
Begijnhof....................................16 B8 Hotel Winston............................ 67 D6 Homegrown Fantasy ............... 113 C5 str

njelie
Caf Reibach........................................16 D1 Gieters

Tich
Beurs van Berlage....................... 17 D5 Misc Eatdrinksleep....................(see 27) Siberi...................................... 114 C3 9
erstr

rsdw
Christophe........................................... 17 D4
West

elstr
Canal Bus Dock...........................18 E4 't Hotel....................................... 68 A5 De Bolhoed..........................................18 D3 20

arsst
Casa Rosso................................. 19 D7 SHOPPING Koh-I-Noor.......................................... 19 D4 24

tr

r
riks
Civic Guard Gallery.....................20 B8 EATING (pp1223) Architectura & Natura Local....................................................20 C2
str
liers

d
Nielsen.................................................21 D6 Anje

2e dAwarsstr
Clandestine Church.................... 21 B8 Blauw aan de Wal.......................69 E7

Hen
Bookshop...............................(see 2) 18

1e T str
Nomads................................................22 B5

kad

njelie
Erotic Museum............................22 E6 Bordewijk...................................70 A3 Amsterdam Diamond Center.....115 C7

ick
Rakang Thai.........................................23 C6

uind
Marnixplein

sau

ht
der
Fitness First................................. 23 C5 Buffet van Odette & Yvette........ 71 A8 Antiques Market.......................116 E7

rs-
str

rac
Tuin

wars
Nas
Fre
Guan Yin Shrine..........................24 E6 De Belhamel...............................72 C3 Book Exchange...........................(see 3)

1e E

ng
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liers

nse
gelanstr
Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Duende......................................73 A2 Boerenmarkt.............................117 A3 Caf Nol...............................................24 D3 Anje 3

Mad str

Pri
Museum................................ 25 D7 dVijff Vlieghen.......................... 74 A8 Boerenmarkt...........................(see 116) Caf 't Smalle.......................................25 D3

tierd
2e E
eliev 3e
De Twee Zwaantjes..............................26 D3
Holland International.................. 26 D3 Eat Mode....................................75 E6 Book Market............................ 118 D8

wars

gr
25
Van Puffelen........................................ 27 D5

gela

sen
en- Egela
Kleine Trippenhuis.......................27 E7 Foodism..................................... 76 A5 Chills & Thrills.......................... 119 D3 Nie
uwe t
rach

ntierd

Prin
Koan Float.................................. 28 A8 Green Planet...............................77 B6 Condomerie het Gulden Tuin ersg
ENTERTAINMENT str JORDAAN lanti
Ege

wars
Koninklijk Paleis..........................29 B6 Grekas........................................ 78 A8 Vlies......................................120 D6 Felix Meritis..........................................(see 6) str 26
ntiers ersgr

ntie
str

str 1
Madame Tussaud's.................... 30 C7 Hemelse Modder........................79 F6 De Bijenkorf............................. 121 C6 Korsakoff..............................................28 B6 Egela Egela
nti

tr
drik

rsdw
ldts
La Tertulia............................................29 C6
Magna Plaza...............................31 B6 Lucius.........................................80 B7 De Klompenboer.......................122 E8

e Le
Leli 17

Hen

arsst
eve
Maloe Melo..........................................30 B6 eg
r

ht
liedw
Multatuli Museum......................32 B4 Nam Kee.....................................81 F6 Hema....................................... 123 C5

erik

barn

rac
Saarein.................................................31 C6

e
gr

kad
Nie
ntiers

2e L
Museum Amstelkring..................33 E5 Nam Kee.....................................82 E6 Himalaya.................................. 124 D5

arsst
uwe

ng
d
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lden
Fre
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sau

nse
5

elied
lstr

kad

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Museum Het Rembrandthuis......34 F8 Pancake Bakery.......................... 83 A4 Intermale....................................(see 6)

r
SHOPPING r

Nas
O
eliest

Pri

er
Analik.................................................. 32 D5 36
we L

wars
rnix
Narrow House............................ 35 D7 Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs ....... 84 C8 Innerspace................................125 B5

10

de

iz
Van
Nieu

Ke
3e L
erka
Galleria d'Arte Rinascimento................33 C4

Ma

str
Nationaal Monument................. 36 C6 Ralph's Asian Wonderfood.........85 C3 Magic Mushroom Gallery.........126 B7

gra
e
Razzmatazz..........................................34 D6

West
mgr 33

liedw
15

ers
News Photo............................... 37 D4 Small World Catering..................86 A1 NNoordermarkt........................(see 40) Vrouwen in Druk..................................(see 3) Bloe 4

iz
t
rach

arsst

Ke
Nieuwe Kerk...............................38 B6 Supper Club................................87 B7 Santa Jet.................................. 127 A4 11
Westermarkt........................................ 35 D4 mg

1e B
Bloe 7

r
Noorderkerk............................... 39 A3 't Kuyltje..................................... 88 A7 Stamp & Coin Market...............128 B7

loem
2e Mar mgr Westermarkt
2
Noordermarkt............................. 40 A3 Vrolijk......................................(see 13) TRANSPORT nixpla
nt Bloe 35

dwa
Bike City...............................................36 C4s
Oude Kerk..................................41 E6 DRINKING (pp1278) mstr

2e B

rsstr
Bloe
Pintohuis.....................................42 E8 Absinthe.....................................89 B7 TRANSPORT

loem
19 3
Poezenboot................................ 43 C4 Bar Bep.......................................90 B7 Canal Bus Dock........................(see 18)

dwa
12
Presbyterian Church....................44 B8 Caf Cuba..................................91 E7 Eurolines................................... 129 C7

rsstr
4

Ako
r
Prostitution Information Centre.. 45 D5 Caf de Sluyswacht.....................92 F8 Ferries to Amsterdam Noord.....130 E3 eng 1
Roz

Roze
ixstr

le
r

iens
St Nicolaaskerk...........................46 F4 Caf de Vergulde Gaper............. 93 A4 GVB (Public Transport) rootg ht

ndw
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de G

1e rsstr
c

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Sauna Deco................................47 B5 De Bekeerde Suster.....................94 E7 Information Office.................131 E4 Groo

a
o de 22
Schreierstoren.............................48 F4 De Drie Fleschjes........................ 95 C6 Holland Rent-a-Bike................. 132 D5 Hug 7
10
4,1

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2e arsstr
13,1

1e L
Sexmuseum Amsterdam............. 49 D4 Gollem........................................96 B8 Lovers Museum Boat................ 133 D3 Reestr 32 5

aurie
Squash City.................................50 B1 Het Papeneiland.........................97 A2 MacBike....................................134 F4 Hartenstr
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Ou 13

SOUTHERN
92 CANAL BELT & DE PIJP

A B C D E F
0
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300 m
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93

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 0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
94 SOUTHERN CANAL BELT & DE PIJP (pp92-93) EASTERN ISLANDS & PLANTAGE 95

A B C D

See Amsterdam Centre Map (pp889)

INFORMATION Hotel de Admiraal...................... 58 G2 Concertgebouw.......................(see 27) 14

IJ-Tunnel
American Book Center..................1 F1 Hotel de lEurope.........................59 F1 Cinecenter................................ 115 C2

Oo 19
ste
Athenaeum Bookshop & Hotel de Munck......................... 60 H4 Comedy Caf Amsterdam.........116 D3 rd
ok
Newsagency..............................2 E1 Hotel Nicolaas Witsen................ 61 G5 Conservatorium van 1
British Council...............................3 E4 Hotel Orlando............................ 62 H3 Amsterdam.......................... 117 C5 Pr
Centrale Bibliotheek......................4 D1 Hotel Prinsenhof......................... 63 H3 De Balie.....................................(see 6) in
sH
en Naval Dockyards
Clean Brothers Laundry................ 5 D2 Hotel Quentin............................ 64 C3 De Kleine Komedie................... 118 G2 dr
ik 9
De Balie........................................ 6 D3 Hotel Rsidence Le Coin..............65 F1 De Uitkijk................................. 119 D2 ka
de
French Consulate..........................7 F3 Orfeo Hotel................................ 66 D3 Escape...................................... 120 G2
Galerie Lambiek........................... 8 D2 Owl Hotel.................................. 67 C3 Exit............................................121 F2

German Consulate....................... 9 D5 Seven Bridges............................. 68 G3 Gay Super Bingo.......................(see 90)
W Bi
Italian Consulate.........................10 F3 Seven One Seven....................... 69 D2 Jazz Caf Alto.......................... 122 D3 aa nn
lse en

22
Kilroy Travels...............................11 E1 Stadsdoelen Youth Hostel...........70 G1 Jimmy Woo.............................. 123 C2 ila ka

,32
nd nt

,39
Maison Descartes.......................(see 7) Stayokay Amsterdam Meander...................................124 E1 O sg

str
ud ra

an
Police Headquarters.....................12 B1 Vondelpark............................ 71 C4 Melkweg.................................. 125 C2 e ch

ba
Ou W t

tel
Re aa

on
Scheltema...................................13 E2 Montmartre............................. 126 G2 ch de l

M
tb Sc
Thomas Cook............................. 14 D3 EATING (pp1247) Muziektheater..........................(see 47) oo ha
ns
2
m
ss

r
Tourist Office............................. 15 D3 Albert Cuyp 67...........................72 E6 Nachttheater Sugar Factory......127 C2

rst
lo 42
ot ns

pe
a
US Consulate............................. 16 D6 Bagels & Beans............................73 E6 Nederlands Filmmuseum..........(see 41) Ko ch

Pe
rte S s
Ko de an
Waterstones...............................17 F1 Bark............................................ 74 C6 Openluchttheater..................... 128 A5 nin Ou ch Ra 10
gs d eS pe
Bazar Amsterdam....................... 75 G6 Paradiso................................... 129 D3 str Ou nb
ur
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp1028) Iguazu........................................ 76 D2 Sinners in Heaven................... 130 G2 g
ABN-AMRO Bank Building.........18 F2 Krua Thai....................................77 G1 Soho.........................................131 F2 Ka
r
Albert Cuypmarkt.......................19 F6 M Caf.....................................(see 36) Stadsschouwburg.....................(see 45) rst tte
nb
rge urg
Allard Pierson Museum...............20 F1 Mamouche.................................78 F5 Thermos Day Sauna................. 132 C2 bu erg
a ns ile
n
r
h eU
American Hotel......................(see 100) Mansion..................................... 79 D4 Thermos Night Sauna............... 133 D2 Sc

l
sp
de w

ieu

jk
Ou

di
Amstelkerk................................. 21 G3 Maoz..........................................80 F2 Tuschinskitheater.....................(see 48) N

Ka
Amstelsluizen............................. 22 H3 Nieuw Albina..............................81 E6 21 Nie
Barry's Health Centre..................23 F4 Pasta di Mamma........................ 82 C4 SHOPPING ht 18 uw
ac eV 3
rgr aar
Bijbels Museum...........................24 D1 Pasta e Basta...............................83 E2 Albert Cuypmarkt....................(see 19) r ge r t
n bu e rst
Ho
Bloemenmarkt.............................25 E2 Pata Negra................................. 84 G4 American Book Center...............(see 1) ile urg

hof
An og
U nb ne te

zen
Canal Bus....................................26 E4 Puccini........................................85 G1 Athenaeum Bookshop & lke Fr Ka
Va dij

en
r an

tro
rst k
Concertgebouw......................... 27 C6 Ralph's Asian Wonderfood..........86 F6 Newsagency...........................(see 2)

ijk
ks
rge

Ma

ad
u tr Pla
FOAM.........................................28 F3 Sama Sebo................................. 87 D4 Antiques Market...................... 134 G3 nb

nk
Jod e nta
ap

ite
en R ge
Frame Fiets Gallery......................29 E5 Segugio...................................... 88 G3 Art Multiples............................ 135 D2 Ka

Bu
bre de
est
Heineken Experience...................30 F5 Sluizer........................................ 89 G3 Book Market..............................136 E1 2 r

ht
Het Oranje Voetbal Museum.......31 F1 Taart van mn Tante...................90 E5 Cora Kemperman..................... 137 D2 Pla

ac
22 nta Bin La
ag

gr
Holland Experience 3D................32 H1 Tempo Doeloe........................... 91 G3 Coster Diamonds..................... 138 D4 ge ne te

en
Do En n Ka

n
tre kad

er
kla

laa
po ijk dij
Hollandse Manege..................... 33 A4 Tujuh Maret............................... 92 G3 De Looier Antiques Market.......139 C1 an k

H
tdo

rk
we
Mu E

l
k

Pa
Mr Visserplein

op
Krijtberg......................................34 E1 Turkiye.......................................93 E6 Decorativa.................................140 E2 ntr

eu
ide epo

lo

Ni

ge
12 rst He 8 tdo

er
Magere Brug.............................. 35 H3 Uliveto....................................... 94 G4 Droog Design...........................141 G1 r

nta
nri k

at
11 Pola 13

W
Wertheimpark

Pla
Metz & Co..................................36 E2 Vlaams Friteshuis.........................95 F1 EH Arins Kappers.....................142 E3 kla 4
str an

l
Mike's Bike Tours........................37 E3 Wagamama............................... 96 D3 Fair Trade Shop.........................143 E1 ste SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp10810)
e Am JD Meijerplein PLANTAGE Artis Zoo Entrance............................. 1 C4
Munttoren..................................38 F2 Zen.............................................97 E5 Galerie Lambiek.........................(see 8) uw 6

an
17 1
Nie Pla Garden Gym......................................2 A4

rkla
Museum Van Loon.....................39 F3 Zuid Zeeland...............................98 E1 Heinen..................................... 144 D2 nta
ge Hermitage Amsterdam.......................3 A5
Waterlooplein

Ke
Museum Willet-Holthuysen........ 40 G2 Jaski..........................................145 E3 Mid
Hollandsche Schouwburg...................4 C5

ge
de

n
5 16 nla

laa
Nederlands Filmmuseum.............41 B4 DRINKING (pp1289) Kalvertoren Shopping Centre.....146 F1

nta
an Artis Hortus Botanicus................................5 B4

ark

Pla
Rederij Noord-Zuid..................... 42 D4 Bar a.........................................99 F5 Laundry Industry.......................147 F1 Hortus Botanicus Zoo Joods Historisch Museum................... 6 A4

eP
r
Rembrandt Statue...................... 43 G2 Caf Amricain......................... 100 C3 Maison de Bonneterie................148 F1 He reng Koninklijk Theater Carr.....................7 A6

tag
Ho 4
Nie uwe rtu Pla Nationaal Vakbondsmuseum..............8 C4

n
Rijksmuseum.............................. 44 D4 Caf de Jaren ...........................101 G1 Maraon Hangmatten..............149 E2 spla nta

Pla
nts ge NEMO................................................9 C1

oen Mu
St Nicolaas Boat Club.............(see 111) Caf de Kroon.......................... 102 G2 Metz & Co...............................(see 36) 3 ide Netherlands Scheepvaartmuseum.....10 D2
rgr
Stadsschouwburg....................... 45 C3 Caf Schiller............................. 103 G2 Plant Market..........................(see 134) Portuguese-Israelite
9,1 Synagogue.......11 A4
4
Stedelijk Museum....................... 46 C5 De Pieper..................................104 C2 Prestige Art Gallery................... 150 G2 TunFun............................................ 12 A4
r
ersg Verzetsmuseum............................... 13 C4

ge
Stopera.......................................47 H1 Eylders...................................... 105 D2 Scheltema.................................(see 13) cht

n
eiz
rsgra we K

laa
nta
Tuschinskitheater........................48 F2 Hoppe.......................................106 E1 Stoeltie Diamonds.................... 151 G2 Keize Nieu 5

an
Pla
We
we SLEEPING (pp1212)
Nieu

erm
Van Gogh Museum.................... 49 C5 Luxembourg..............................107 E1 Van Moppes & Zoon................152 E6 Pla
esp

an
nta Amstel Botel.....................................14 B1

est
ge

Roete

ella
Zuiderbad.................................. 50 D5 Suzy Wong............................... 108 C2 Van Ravenstein........................ 153 D1 erst Mu Hotel Fantasia..................................15 A5
See Southern Canal Belt & De Pijp Map (pp923)

W
r
erkst ide

Lep
Vroom & Dreesmann................154 F1 we K rgr Hotel Hortus.....................................16 B4
Nieu
r

rsstr
ach

ge
SLEEPING (pp1201) ENTERTAINMENT Waterlooplein Flea Market....... 155 H1 t Hotel Rembrandt..............................17 B4

nta
Mane

an
15
Aero Hotel................................. 51 D2 April..........................................109 F2 Waterstone's...........................(see 17)

dla
Pla
str EATING (pp127)
Kerk

Ba
gestr
Amistad..................................... 52 D2 ARC..........................................110 E2 we A Tavola..........................................18 C3
Nieu

ge
ngr

nta
City Hotel................................... 53 G2 Boom Chicago.......................... 111 D2 TRANSPORT rinse Universiteit van Sea Palace.........................................19 B1
we P
Nieu

Pla
Amsterdam
Flying Pig Uptown Hostel........... 54 C4 Bourbon Street Jazz & Blues ANWB..................................... 156 D5
tr ENTERTAINMENT
Hans Brinker Budget Hotel..........55 E3 Club..................................... 112 D3 Canal Bus.................................(see 26) t Lepels
ch Korte
Lepe
Hotel Agora.................................56 E1 Brasil Music Bar........................ 113 D2 MacBike................................... 157 D3 sengra Koninklijk Theater Carr...................(see 7)
we Prin r Kriterion...........................................20 C6
Nieu lk Achte
rg
Ams

ruisst
We

Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann....57 C1 Bulldog..................................... 114 D3 Mike's Bike Tours.....................(see 37) we

Nieu
esp

tr
tel

rs
r
SHOPPING kenie hati
str 6
Valc
Onb

erst

cht Universiteit van Sarp21 A3

Roete
lstr rgra Gassan Diamonds.............................
Lepe Achte
Amsterdam
r
eken

we
Nieu

rsstr
7,10 TRANSPORT
20
de

rstr MacBike...........................................22 A4
sgra

Weesperplein kenie
7 Valc
cht
AMSTERDAM 96 AMSTERDAM Sights www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM Sights 97

AMSTERDAM
(Continued from page 85) the palace of Napoleons fairly incompetent
brother, Louis. The interior (particularly the WINDOW SHOPPING
The Prostitution Information Centre (Map pp88-9; chandeliered Civic Hall) is more lavish than Youre not fooling anyone you know youll end up here. Everyone does at some stage, even if
%420 73 28; www.pic-amsterdam.com; Enge Kerksteeg 3; the sober faade suggests, but unfortunately they think theyre too hip, too moral, too conscientious, too prudish, too impotent, too oldthe
hnoon-7pm Tue-Sat or by appointment), established by its closed until 2008. Ring or check the web- curiosity value is just too strong. But its not just rubberneckers and pleasure seekers who flock
a former prostitute and staffed by sex workers, site for updates. to the Red Light District: Amsterdams approach to prostitution has generated reams of socio-
organises evening Red Light walks and sells Behind the palace stands the Nieuwe Kerk economic analysis, along with a raft of facts and figures and some contradictions.
a map of the district along with naughty (New Church; Map pp88-9; %638 69 09; www.nieuwekerk Prostitution was legalised in the Netherlands in 1815 (although brothels were only legalised in
souvenirs. For a donation, you can browse a .nl; Dam; adult/6-15yr/under 6yr 5/4/free; h10am-6pm Fri- 2000). Unsurprisingly, less than 5% of Dutch prostitutes work illegally in the Netherlands. Dutch
re-creation of a prostitutes working quarters, Wed, to 10pm Thu), which is the coronation church working girls pay taxes and have their own union. Pimping is technically against the law, but
historical photos of the Red Light District and of Dutch royalty. Crown Prince Willem Alex- the women are not on their own: their quarters are fitted with panic buttons in case of trouble.
some enlightening reading material. ander and Mxima also took their vows here Should the button be pressed, it wont be the cops who come running.
And now for something completely differ- in 2002. This Gothic basilica from the 15th An estimated 5% of Amsterdam prostitutes are born in the Netherlands, and around 1000 to
ent: the Museum Amstelkring (Map pp88-9; %624 66 century is only new in relation to the Oude 1200 work approximately 380 windows daily, in day, evening and night shifts. The women must
04; Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40; adult/child 7/1; h10am-5pm Kerk. A few monumental items dominate the rent their window at a cost of between 40 and 100 per day, depending on location. Do the
Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), the Red Light Districts and otherwise spartan interior a magnificent maths: the typical base cost for oral favours or a quickie is 30; the average base cost for both
Amsterdams holiest place. The highlight is carved oak chancel, a bronze choir screen, a is 50. Encounters typically last 15 minutes.
the secret church, Ons Lieve Heer op Sol- massive organ and enormous stained-glass Dutch customers are most likely to visit on a Monday morning thats when many businesses
der (Our Dear Lord in the Attic), a Catholic windows. Exhibitions and organ concerts are and most shops are closed. Of the international clientele, almost half are British we dont dare
chapel set up after the Calvinists seized power held, but church services are no more. Open- speculate why.
that remained in use through the 1880s. Curi- ing times and admission fees vary, depending A few years back, three chaps installed themselves behind windows as prostitutes, a sociological
ous horizontal steel poles at balcony level pro- on the exhibition. experiment and maybe a little bit of performance art that generated frothing mass debate in
vide extra support, unwittingly emphasising The magnificent orange-and-white faade the media. In the end, the guys were warned not to give up their day job: no women took the bait
the claustrophobic air as do the chaplains of Magna Plaza (Map pp88-9; %626 91 99; Nieuwezijds (were not sure if any blokes did). Rubbing salt into the wound, one female prostitute dismissed
amazingly cramped quarters. Voorburgwal 182; h11am-7pm Mon, 10am-7pm Tue, Wed, the whole incident as filthy.
Fri & Sat, 10am-9pm Thu, noon-7pm Sun) was built in the Now thats harsh.
THE DAM & NEW SIDE (NIEUWE ZIJDE) late 19th century as the main post office. The
On the Singel, tied up at No 40, is the Poezen- complex has since been converted into a multi-
boot (Cat Boat; Map pp88-9; %625 87 94; www.poezen level shopping centre, with columned galleries Queen Wilhelmina (Map pp889) on horseback, and Austria, including writers and artists who
boot.nl; Singel 40; h1-3pm), one of Amsterdams and dozens of upmarket clothing shops. a reminder of the monarchs trots through settled around Beethovenstraat.
more unusual flea markets. This barge began North of the Dam, the oldest dyke in the Amsterdam during official processions.
life as a shelter for hundreds of homeless cats city, Nieuwendijk (Map pp889) used to link Rokin ends at Muntplein, a busy intersec- AROUND THE SPUI
in the 1960s. Its now a registered charity pat up with the road to Haarlem, and its busi- tion dominated by the Munttoren (Mint Tower; The square called Spui (Map pp923) was
and pet the current feline inhabitants for a nesses served (read: fleeced) travellers on Map pp923). When the French occupied water until 1882. The name means sluice
small donation. their way to market. Today this pedestrianised the country in the 19th century the national and is pronounced spow (not spew
Further along the Singel is Torensluis (Map shopping street is a mix of souvenir shops, mint was transferred here from Dordrecht for thats reserved for the effects of Amsterdam
pp889), one of the widest bridges in the city. coffeeshops and cheap hostels, although some safekeeping. The French got the mint later hash). The statuette of an Amsterdam street
The big moustachioed bust is of Multatuli, the of the narrow medieval streets leading to the anyway when they took Amsterdam. brat, Het Lieverdje (Little Darling), was the fa-
pen name of the brilliant 19th-century author west are pretty. Here youll find out why, for many Dutch, voured setting for Provo protests in the 1960s.
Eduard Douwes Dekker, who exposed colo- The Nationaal Monument (Map pp889) on football isnt a matter of life or death: its more The Spui is now a popular meeting spot,
nial narrow-mindedness in a novel about a the eastern side of the Dam commemorates important than that. The Het Oranje Voetbal Mu- with its pubs and bookshops nearby. It holds
coffee merchant. The nearby Multatuli Museum those who died during WWII; the fallen are seum (Orange Football Museum; Map pp92-3; %589 89 89; a book market on Friday, followed by an art
(Map pp88-9; %638 19 38; Korsjespoortsteeg 20; admission honoured in a Remembrance Day ceremony www.supportersclub-oranje.nl; Kalverstraat 236; h11am- market on Sunday.
free; h10am-5pm Tue, noon-5pm Sat & Sun, closed Sat Jul here every 4 May. The statues around the 5pm Sat & Sun) tells the story of orange maestros The extensive Amsterdams Historisch Museum
& Aug) tells the story. phallic white obelisk stand for war, peace and including Cruyff, Van Basten and Gullit, and (Map pp88-9; %523 18 22; www.ahm.nl; Kalverstraat 92;
To the east is the Dam, the very spot where resistance. In the 1960s hippies used to camp the revolution that was Total Football. Hup, adult/child 6/3; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun)
a barrier giving the city its name was built out here before being shooed away by police. Holland, hup! is housed in the former civic orphanage (which
across the Amstel river. Today its besieged South of the Dam is Kalverstraat, the shop- To the west of the Damrak-Rokin axis is the was here till 1960). Begin with the large-screen
by thousands of pigeons, tourists and the ping mecca where consumers lather them- New Side of the medieval city. It was actually TV depicting an aerial view of Amsterdams
occasional fun fair. selves into a fever pitch over the latest sales. settled earlier than the Oude Zijde the evolution from the tiny settlement on the
Facing the Dam, the Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Beware of pickpockets. names date from the construction of the mouth of the Amstel. Exhibits include models
Palace; Map pp88-9; %620 40 60; www.koninklijkhuis.nl; Parallel to Kalversstraat, Damrak becomes Nieuwe Kerk and the division of the city into of old homes, religious objects, silver, porce-
Dam) is the official residence of Queen Beatrix, Rokin and begins to show the business side two parishes. Amsterdams first houses were lain, a detailed history of Dutch trading, the
although she actually lives in Den Haag. Built of Amsterdam with office buildings and art built in this neighbourhood. Some of the first popularity of bicycles, WWII, gay rights, civic
as a grand city hall in 1665, it later became dealers. At Grimburgwal stands a statue of residents were Jewish refugees from Germany projects and the citys drug policies.
AMSTERDAM 98 AMSTERDAM Sights www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com AMSTERDAM Sights 99

AMSTERDAM
From the orphanages courtyard (note the & Wed, 2-5pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) used to belong to music theatre opened in 1986 after nearly
cupboards where the orphans used to store IN A TIGHT SPOT a wealthy Sephardi, Isaac de Pinto, who had two decades of controversy. One critic re-
their possessions), walk through to the Civic Amsterdam is chock-full of slender homes it remodelled with Italianate pilasters in the marked that the building has all the charm of
Guard Gallery (Map pp88-9; %523 18 22; Kalverstraat because property used to be taxed on 1680s. Locals used to mutter how someone an Ikea chair and the theatre has been plagued
92; admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & frontage the narrower your faade, the was as rich as Pinto. Its now a library, so you by logistical problems: the acoustics arent
Sun), where the static group portraits of medi- less you paid. can peek inside at the beautiful ceilings. great, and the ballet practice room has low
eval guards are in stark contrast to the more Witness the narrow house at Oude Hoog- A passageway in the modern housing ceilings. Facing the Amstel is the muziektheater
dynamic treatment in Rembrandts Night- straat 22 (Map pp889), east of the Dam. Its estate across St Antoniesbreestraat leads to (%625 54 55; www.hetmuziektheater.nl; Amstel 3; had-
watch, the most famous of the group-portrait 2.02m wide, 6m deep and several storeys the Zuiderkerk (Southern Church; Map pp88-9; %552 79 vance tickets 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun), while
subgenre of Dutch painting. Combined with tall, occupying a mere 12 sq metres per 87; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat). Built in the the city hall is closer to Waterlooplein. Opera,
the Rijksmuseums, this is the worlds largest storey. This could well be the tiniest (self- early 1600s, this was the first custom-built music and dance performances take place in
collection of its type, and, given the renova- contained) house in Europe. Protestant church in Amsterdam (based on the theatre; there are usually free lunchtime
tions on the former over the next few years, The Kleine Trippenhuis (Map pp889) a Catholic design). At the end of WWII it concerts on Tuesdays. Tickets for perform-
the Civic Guard Gallery should be the best at Kloveniersburgwal 26 is 2.44m wide. It served as a morgue. It now houses the citys ances are available at the theatre, at tourist
place to view a large number at once. stands opposite the mansion once owned planning centre for public housing, as well as information offices and online.
Hidden behind the walls north of the Spui by the wealthy Trip brothers and, so the Amsterdams urban blueprints. On the eastern side of the Mr Visserplein
is the Begijnhof (Map pp88-9; %622 19 18; www story goes, their coachman exclaimed: If The heart of the Jodenbuurt (Jewish Quarter) traffic circle stands the majestic Portuguese-
.begijnhofamsterdam.nl; admission free; h8am-5pm), only I could have a house as wide as my lies in and around the wide Jodenbreestraat, Israelite Synagogue (Map p95; %624 53 51; www.esnoga
a former convent from the early 14th cen- masters door! a remnant of a controversial freeway that was .com; Mr Visserplein 3; adult/child 6.50/5; h10am-4pm
tury. Rows of tiny houses and postage-stamp never completed. At one time the squares and Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, 10am-3pm Fri Nov-Mar).
gardens overlook a well-kept courtyard. The cramped alleys around here used to echo with Built for the Sephardic community in the 17th
house at No 34 dates from around 1465, giv- interiors that have a distinctly medieval feel the sounds of morning prayer on the Sabbath. century, the synagogue was Europes largest
ing it claim to being the oldest maintained candles on round chandeliers provide the only The wonderfully restored Museum het at the time and was based on the Temple of
wooden house in the country. The Beguines source of light. Rembrandthuis (Rembrandt House Museum; Map pp88- Solomon. The large chuppah (Jewish wed-
who give the Begijnhof its name were a Catho- The Guan Yin Shrine (Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple; 9; %520 04 00; www.rembrandthuis.nl; Jodenbreestraat ding canopy) is made from jacaranda wood,
lic order of unmarried or widowed women Map pp88-9; %420 23 57; www.ibps.nl; Zeedijk 106-118; 4-6; adult/child 7.50/1.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11-5pm and services are still held beneath large lit
who cared for the elderly. After the Calvinists admission free; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) is Sun) is where Rembrandt van Rijn ran the candelabra. The Ets Haim seminary contains
seized their Gothic church, the Beguines wor- Europes first Chinese Imperialstyle Bud- Netherlands largest painting studio, only to one of the most important Jewish libraries
shipped in the clandestine church (Map pp889) dhist temple (completed in 2000). It is dedi- lose the lot when profligacy set in, enemies in Europe.
opposite. The paintings and stained-glass cated to Guan Yin, the Buddhist goddess of swooped and bankruptcy came a-knocking. Under the traffic circle, TunFun (Map p95;
windows here commemorate the Miracle of mercy. Some images on the many-armed, The museum has almost every etching he %689 43 00; Mr Visserplein 7; adult/under 12 free/7.50;
Amsterdam, and De Stijl artist Piet Mon- long-eared statue include a prayer bell and made (around 250) and holds daily etching h10am-6pm) is a kids playground built in an
drian designed some of the pulpit panels. The a lotus flower. demonstrations. Expect to see between 20 old underpass. It has slides, ball pools, tram-
Gothic church today serves as a Presbyterian Zeedijk (Map pp889) was once the first and 100 etchings on display at any one time, polines, a mini-cinema, a soccer field and a
church (Map pp889) and is booked months stop for wine, women and song (in the 1950s depending on the exhibit. Shows change a few snack bar even a childrens disco. An adult
in advance for weddings. the worlds best jazz musicians played in pubs times per year, often incorporating works by must accompany children.
such as the Casablanca), but now its more Rembrandts peers, or contemporary paint- South of the synagogue is the Joods Historisch
NIEUWMARKT harmless than the Red Light District to the ings that somehow comment on Rembrandts Museum (Jewish Historical Museum; Map p95; %626 99 45;
Nieuwmarkt (New Market) quarter used to southwest. Zeedijks southern end is a little own pieces. The collection also includes sev- www.jhm.nl; Jonas Danil Meijerplein 2-4; adult/child 6.50/3;
be the heart of Jewish Amsterdam, an indus- Chinatown with rows of cheap eateries, and eral drawings and paintings by his pupils and h11am-5pm), a beautifully restored complex of
trious community that traded in diamonds, the street turns to entertainment with a mixed his teacher, Pieter Lastman, and an etching four Ashkenazic synagogues linked by glass-
tobacco and clothes. In the 1970s the area was bag of gay and straight bars further north. by Albrecht Drer. Theres also an impres- covered walkways. These synagogues include
embroiled in a squatters dispute; hairy activ- Stop briefly at the house at No 1, one of just sive collection of Rembrandts possessions: the Grote Sjoel (Great Synagogue, 1671), the
ists and long-time residents united in waves two half-timbered faades in the city (the seashells, weaponry, musical instruments, a first public synagogue in Western Europe;
of protest against the construction of modern other is in the Begijnhof; see left). Roman bust and military helmets from as far the Obbene Sjoel (Upstairs Synagogue, 1686);
housing estates and a new metro line. The city East of the Zeedijk is the wide, forlorn and away as Japan. the Dritt Sjoel (Third Synagogue, 1700 with a
prevailed and much of the area was razed and rather stinky Geldersekade. The small brick Land from the Amstel was reclaimed in the 19th-century faade); and the Neie Sjoel (New
rebuilt, with dubious results. tower at the tip of this canal is the Schreierstoren 16th century, creating the island of Vlooien- Synagogue, 1752), the largest in the complex.
Golden Age ships loaded and unloaded (Map pp889), where English captain Henry burg. Vlooien means to flow or fleas, an The Grote Sjoel contains religious objects
produce at the Nieuwmarkt (Map pp889) Hudson set sail to find a northern passage to apt label for the present-day wares hawked at as well as displays showing the rise of Jewish
square. The imposing Waag (Weigh-house) the East Indies (and ended up buying Man- Waterlooplein (Map pp923). Once lined with enterprise and its role in the Dutch economy;
originally formed part of the citys fortifica- hattan instead). the homes of Jewish traders, the square today displays tend to be on the academic side. The
tions but served a variety of functions later, South of Nieuwmarkt, the Pintohuis (Open- hosts a daily flea market. Neie Sjoel focuses on aspects of Jewish iden-
including a spot for public executions. Today bare Bibliotheek; Map pp88-9; %624 31 84; www.oba The hulking Stopera (Map pp92-3; %551 81 17; tity and the history of Jews in the Netherlands.
its a caf-restaurant with beautifully restored .nl; St Antoniesbreestraat 69; admission free; h2-8pm Mon Waterlooplein) complex the city hall and the A kosher caf serves Jewish specialities.
AMSTERDAM 100 A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s 101

AMSTERDAM
Jordaan & Western Islands Blink and you might walk right past the Outside on the pavement is a small collection tures exhibits that cover the history of Dutch
JORDAAN unobtrusive Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam of typical Amsterdam School street fixtures theatre through dioramas, costume displays,
Originally a stronghold of the working class, (Map p91; %422 04 71; www.smba.nl; Rozenstraat 59; admis- (letterbox, fire alarm etc). On the other side sepia-toned 19th-century photos, and film
the Jordaan (Map p91) is now probably the sion free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun), a project space of of the post office entrance, walk into the at- of modern-day productions. Major exhibits
most desirable area to live in Amsterdam. the Stedelijk Museum (p109). Once a cloth- tractive courtyard through the arch the change annually, covering such topics as Rem-
The district is a pastiche of modest old resi- ing workshop, it now holds exhibits that mix fairy-tale garden house with its sculpted roof brandt and WWII theatre. The sumptuous
dences and a few modern carbuncles, all contemporary artists who have Amsterdam was intended as a meeting room. interior was completely restyled in the 1730s
squashed together into a skewed grid of tiny connections with some international context. Along busy Haarlemmerweg, Westergas- with intricate plasterwork, extensive wall and
lanes and peppered with bite-sized cafs and The programme is creative and innovative, fabriek (Map pp86-7; %586 07 10; www.westergas ceiling paintings, and a grand spiral staircase.
shops. Its intimacy is contagious, and nowa- ranging from painting and sculpture to new fabriek.nl; Haarlemmerweg 8-10), a late-19th-century The faade dates back to 1620, and in summer
days the average Jordaan dweller is more media and installation pieces. A recent show Dutch Renaissance complex, was the city gas- the garden out the back is perfect.
likely to be a gallery owner than a blue-collar displayed visual art inspired by Amsterdam works until it was all but abandoned in the The institute spills over into the Bartolotti-
labourer. musical duo Arling and Cameron. 1960s, its soil contaminated. Now the soil huis (Map pp889) at No 172, one of the most
The name Jordaan may be a corruption of has been replaced with lawns, a long pool captivating faades in the city a red brick
the French jardin (garden), as many French WESTERN ISLANDS suitable for wading (bring the kids), sports Renaissance job that follows the bend of the
Huguenots settled here in what used to be the The Western Islands were raised from the riv- facilities and even child care. As you move canal. It was built in 1615 for a brewer.
market gardens. But some historians point erbed to accommodate warehouses for Dutch west away from town, reedy wilderness, with Just beyond, Herengracht is crossed by Raad-
to joden, the Dutch word for Jews, or even a colonial goods. Prinseneiland and Realeneiland marshes and shallow waterfalls, begins to take huisstraat, which links the Jordaan with the
biblical connection to the river Jordan. are the prettiest of this tiny archipelago. A over. The site is surrounded by the long and Dam. Note the shopping arcade on the far side
Jordaan dwellers have a rebellious streak. narrow bridge linking the two, the Drieharin- varied Westerpark; bike on in and stay a while. (west): designed for an insurance company,
Dozens died in the Eel Riot of 1886 (see p79) genbrug, replaced a pontoon bridge that used Inside the main buildings are cinemas, cafs, the faade bears sculptures of vicious animals to
and 1934 saw unrest over a cut in unemploy- to be pulled aside to let ships through. restaurants, nightclubs and office space. stress the dangers of life without insurance.
ment benefits. The landmark Westindisch Huis (Map pp88 The Bijbels Museum (Biblical Museum; Map pp92-3;
Many of the Jordaans narrow canals have 9) on Herenmarkt is the former head office Canal Belt %624 24 36; www.bijbelsmuseum.nl; Herengracht 366-
been filled in, though the old labels remain: of the West India Company. When Admiral WESTERN CANAL BELT 368; adult/child 6/3; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun)
Lindengracht, Rozengracht and Palmgracht. Pretty Piet Heyn captured the Spanish silver fleet off The canals bordered by the Brouwersgracht has a large number of model temples, freshly
Bloemgracht was spared a similar fate, thanks Cuba in 1628, the booty was stored here. and Leidsegracht (to the north and south restored 18th-century ceiling frescos by Jacob
to lobbying by artisans who owned smart The busy road to Haarlem led through the respectively), the Singel to the east and the de Wit, and several centuries of the good
canalside homes. Haarlemmerpoort (Haarlem Gate; Map pp867) Prinsengracht to the west are filled with el- book, including the Delft bible, printed in
The Jordaan also has many hofjes private on Haarlemmerplein, where travellers heading egant homes, refined museums and cafs, 1477. Theres even a scent cabinet, where
courtyards surrounded by old almshouses. into town had to leave their horses and carts. restaurants and speciality shops. visitors can smell odours mentioned in the
Some have beautiful restored houses and stun- The gateway was built for King Willem II to The area was formed in 1613 when the au- bible. The pretty back garden focuses on a
ning gardens; if the entrance is unlocked, you pass through on the way to his coronation. thorities embarked on an ambitious project to wistful sculpture called Apocalypse.
can usually take a discreet peek. Over the past decade the Haarlemmerbuurt expand Amsterdams area with semicircular Keizersgracht (the Emperors Canal) was
The Noorderkerk (Map pp88-9; %626 64 36; Noord- (Map pp867) has evolved into one of Am- and radial canals on the western and southern named in honour of Maximilian I, ruler of
ermarkt 48; admission free; h10.30am-3pm Mon, Wed & sterdams quirkiest districts. New Age shops, sides, with bridges and connecting roads. Par- Habsburg and later the Holy Roman Empire.
Thu, 11am-1pm Sat, 10am-noon & 7-8.30pm Sun) was a wacky boutiques and ethnic gift emporiums cels of land were sold along the way to finance The pink granite triangles of the unique Homo-
Calvinist church for the Jordaans common line the main Haarlemmerstraat (Map pp88 the project, buildings arose gradually, and the monument (Map p91; cnr Keizersgracht & Raadhuisstraat),
people. Its shaped like a Greek cross four 9). western canal belt was completed by 1625. at Westermarkt, commemorate gays and lesbi-
arms of equal length around a central pulpit. Several minutes walk northwest of the Haar- With its humpback bridges, shiny shutters ans who were persecuted by the Nazis; flowers
A sculpture near the entrance commemorates lemmerbuurt (cross under the railway tracks), and tree-lined towpaths, the Brouwersgracht are laid out on Liberation Day (4 May).
the bloody Jordaan riots of July 1934, when the Het Schip Housing Estate (Map pp86-7; %418 28 is exceedingly picturesque. The dozens of Further south along Keizersgracht stands
five people died in protests over government 85; www.hetschip.nl; Spaarndammerplantsoen 140; adult/sen- breweries and warehouses that used to oper- the Felix Meritis building (Map p91; %623 13 11; www
austerity measures. ior/student 5/2.75/2; h1-5pm Thu-Sun), dating from ate here have been converted to apartments; .felix.meritis.nl; Keizersgracht 324; hbox office 9am-7pm),
The Noordermarkt (Map pp889) on the edge 1920, is one of the signature buildings of the houseboats lining the quays add to the lazy built in 1787 by Jacob Otten Husly for the
of the Jordaan hosts a flea market on Monday Amsterdam School of architecture (see p57). residential character. Felix Meritis organisation (Latin for Happy
morning and a boerenmarkt (farmers market) This triangular block, loosely resembling a The Herengracht (Gentlemens Canal) was through Merit), a society of wealthy residents
on Saturday morning. ship, has been very well preserved and it wel- named after the 17 Gentlemen of the United who promoted the ideals of the Enlighten-
At the Pianola Museum (Map p91; %627 96 24; comes visitors; Michel de Klerk designed it for East India Company. The first section south ment through the study of science, arts and
www.pianola.nl; Westerstraat 106; adult/child 5/3; h2-5pm a housing corporation of railway employees. from Brouwersgracht shows that these big- commerce. Composers such as Brahms, Grieg
Sun) you can hear concerts of player pianos There are several other Amsterdam School wigs sunk some of their profits into show- and Saint-Sans performed in its oval concert
from the early 1900s, with rare classical or designed housing blocks in this area. The piece residences. hall, and today the Felix Meritis Foundation
jazz tunes composed especially for the instru- complex has just expanded to show workers The Theater Instituut Nederland (Map pp88-9; stages European performing-arts events.
ment. The curator gives demonstrations with apartments, one as it would have been in the %551 33 00; www.tin.nl; Herengracht 168; adult/child Prinsengracht, named after Prince Willem
great zest. workers days, complete with period furniture. 4.50/2.25; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) fea- van Oranje, is the least showy of the main
AMSTERDAM 102 A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s 103

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and Leidsegracht is a particularly tranquil The Herengracht between Leidsestraat and
ANNE FRANK spot, despite its proximity to the heady action Vijzelstraat, known as the Golden Bend (Map
The Anne Frank Huis is where the Jewish Frank family hid to escape deportation during WWII. at Leidseplein. pp923), had some of the largest private man-
As the German occupiers tightened the noose around the Amsterdams Jewish inhabitants, Otto On the southwestern side of Singel are the sions in the city during the Golden Age. Most
Frank together with his wife, two daughters and several friends moved into the rear annex soaring turrets of the Krijtberg (Chalk Mountain; of them now belong to bankers, lawyers and
in July 1942, and the entrance was concealed behind a revolving bookcase. Map pp92-3; Singel 446; hmass 12.30pm & 5.45pm Mon-Fri, financial advisers. French culture was all the
The Franks were betrayed to the Gestapo in August 1944 and deported; Anne died in 5.15pm Sat, 9am, 11am, 12.30pm & 5.15pm Sun). Its one rage among the citys wealthy class, so most
Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in March 1945, just weeks before it was liberated. Her father of the citys most beautiful Gothic churches styles are Gallic with a Dutch twist.
Otto was the only one of their group to survive. After the war Annes diary was found among (built 1883), thanks largely to its colourful Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, lined with swish an-
the litter in the annex, and her father published it. The diary, which gives a moving account interior a stark contrast to the rather spartan tique shops and art galleries, begins at the
of wartime horrors seen through a young girls eyes, has sold 25 million copies and has been Calvinist churches. A house here belonged to Herengracht. The extension of this street, the
translated into 60 languages. a chalk merchant, hence the name. pretty Spiegelgracht, leads past more antiques
Addressed to the fictitious Kitty, the diary, written in Dutch, traces the teenagers development Amsterdam has specialised in flower mar- and paintings to the Rijksmuseum.
through puberty and persecution, and displays all the signs of a gifted writer in the making. kets since the 17th century, so if they interest The corner of Herengracht and Vijzelstraat
you, make your way to the southern side of is dominated by the colossal ABN-AMRO bank
the Singel between Koningsplein and Vijzel- building (Map pp923). It was completed
canals. Its peppered with cafs and shops during the 60-minute tour is steep (186 steps) straat for the Bloemenmarkt (Flower Market; Map in 1923 as head office for the Netherlands
rather than stately offices and banks, and the and claustrophobic, but there are periodic pp92-3; h9am-5pm, closed Sun in winter). See p134 Trading Society, a Dutch overseas bank. Its
houses are smaller and narrower. Houseboats landings where you can rest while the guide for more details. successor teamed up with a competitor to
line the quays. describes the bells and other workings of the South down Leidsestraat, at the corner of form ABN-AMRO, the largest bank in the
Although few of its original furnishings massive carillon. Of the 50 bells, the largest Keizersgracht, is department store Metz & Co country. This vast edifice continues all the
remain, the Anne Frank Huis (Anne Frank House; Map weighs some 7500kg. You can also see the (Map pp92-3; %520 70 36; Keizersgracht 455), built in way to Keizersgracht.
p91; %556 71 05; www.annefrank.org; Prinsengracht 267; chamber where the night watchmen slept 1891 for a life insurance company. The func- Near the bank buildings southeast corner
adult/child/under 10yr 7.50/3.50/free; h9am-9pm Apr-Aug, between keeping a lookout for fires. tionalist architect Gerrit Rietveld added the is FOAM (Fotografie Museum Amsterdam; Map pp92-3;
9am-7pm Sep-Mar), where Anne wrote her famous The Houseboat Museum (Map p91; %427 07 50; top-floor gallery, where you can have lunch %551 65 00; www.foam.nl; Keizersgracht 609; adult/child
diary, lures almost a million visitors annually. www.houseboatmuseum.nl; Prinsengracht; adult/child under with a panoramic view over the canals. 6/free; h10am-5pm Sat-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri), an
With its reconstruction of Annes melancholy 152cm 3/2.25; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 11am-5pm Further southwest along Leidsestraat is impressive museum devoted to photography.
bedroom and her actual diary sitting alone Fri-Sun Nov-Feb, closed most of Jan) is south along the Leidseplein, one of the liveliest squares in the Two storeys of changing exhibition feature
in its glass case, filled with sunnily optimistic canal from Elandsgracht, at Johnny Jordaan- city. This was once the gateway for travellers world-renowned photographers such as Sir
writing tempered by quiet despair its a pow- plein, opposite No 296 Prinsengracht. The heading south towards Leiden; the oil-lamps Cecil Beaton, Annie Leibovitz and Henri
erful experience. The focus of the museum is sailing barge (23m long by 4m wide) was built have given way to screaming neon signs, but Cartier-Bresson. Simple, functionalist and
the achterhuis (rear house), also known as the in 1914, and the collection itself is rather min- street musicians and artists are still drawn to large galleries, some with skylights or grand
secret annexe, a dark and airless space where imal, although you can view the iron hull up the cobblestone square. Theres something for windows for natural light, provide the setting
the Franks and others observed complete close, watch a slide show of pretty houseboats, everyone here: cinemas, cafs, pubs and night- for this impressive museum accessible and
silence during the daytimes, outgrew their and see sleeping, living, cooking and dining clubs, and a smorgasbord of restaurants. inspiring, yet always critical.
clothes, pasted photos of Hollywood stars on quarters with all mod cons. Fact: houseboat Like so many public buildings, the Further along the other side of Keizers-
the walls and read Dickens, before being mys- toilets, until this century, could drain directly Stadsschouwburg (City Theatre; Map pp92-3; %624 gracht is Museum Van Loon (Map pp92-3; %624 52 55;
teriously betrayed and sent to their deaths. The into the canals, but they now must hook up 23 11; Leidseplein 26; hadvance ticket sales 10am-6pm www.museumvanloon.nl; Keizersgracht 672; adult/child 5/4;
modern extension of the museum is for con- to the city sewerage system. Mon-Sat) had a difficult birth. Public criticism h11am-5pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Fri-Mon Sep-Jun), built
temporary exhibitions. Queues can be brutally of the 1894 edifice stopped funding for the in 1672 for a wealthy arms dealer. The house
long, so consider going in the early morning SOUTHERN CANAL BELT striking faade-cum-arcade, and the architect, recalls canalside living in Amsterdam when
or evening, when crowds are lightest. If the western canal belt is upscale and re- Jan Springer, promptly retired. The theatre money was no object for the wealthy. The ro-
The Westerkerk (%624 77 66; Prinsengracht 281; fined, the southern canal belt is more di- is used for large-scale plays, operettas and coco rose garden is especially fetching. There
church/tower free/5; h11am-3pm Mon-Fri, Eastermid- verse and populist, though no less stately. festivals such as Julidans (p117). are some important paintings, including the
Sep, tower 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep) is the main The southern canal belt spans the area from South across Marnixstraat, the American Wedding Portrait by Jan Miense Molenaer
gathering place for Amsterdams Dutch Re- the Leidsegracht in the west to the Amstel in Hotel (Map pp923) is an Art Nouveau land- and a collection of some 150 portraits of the
formed Church community. Rembrandt, who the east, anchored by two key nightlife districts: mark from 1902. Have a coffee in its stylish Van Loon family.
died bankrupt in 1669 at nearby Rozengracht, Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein. In between Caf Amricain see (p128). Northeast of here, at the corner of Heren-
is buried somewhere in the church perhaps are the elegant antique and art shops of the Leidsestraats northern end intersects with gracht and Reguliersgracht, canal tour boats
near the grave of his son Titus, where theres Spiegel quarter and the citys gay nightlife the southern stretch of the Herengracht, where halt for photos at the beautiful canal of the
a commemorative plaque. A highlight is the centre around Reguliersdwarsstraat. the buildings are noticeably larger than in the seven bridges, cut in 1664. The arches are
bell tower, Amsterdams highest church tower This wealthy residential area was the soul western section. By the mid-17th century many illuminated at night and reflect dreamily on
at 85m. Its topped by the imperial crown that of discretion, and youll see that the 17th- and Amsterdam merchants had amassed huge for- the rippling water.
Habsburg emperor Maximilian I bestowed 18th-century faades are less ostentatious than tunes, and they saw to it that restrictions on the Across Herengracht towards the centre of
to the citys coat of arms in 1489. The climb those to the north. The corner of Herengracht size of canalside plots were relaxed. town is Thorbeckeplein, with a statue of Jan
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GAY & LESBIAN AMSTERDAM Entertainment
Close to 100 gay bars, clubs, hotels and restaurants are dotted all over town. Many popular gay
Information places are along Reguliersdwarsstraat (see Map pp923) its as camp as a row of tents. Kinky
The Gay & Lesbian Switchboard (%623 65 65; www.switchboard.nl) is a comprehensive info source,
Amsterdam congregates over on Warmoesstraat in the Red Light District.
while COC Amsterdam (Map p91; %626 30 87; www.cocamsterdam.nl; Rozenstraat 8) is Amsterdams gay
Some possibilities:
and lesbian social centre, with a caf and a nightclub.
April (Map pp92-3; %625 95 72; Reguliersdwarsstraat 37) Famous for its happy hour, relaxed atmosphere and
Pick up the Bent Guide, published in English, stuffed with gayness, at the Pink Point (Map p91;
flirtatious pretty boys. Theres a revolving bar out the back.
hnoon-6pm Mar-Aug, limited hr Sep-Feb), an info kiosk near the Homomonument (p101). ARC (Map pp92-3; %689 70 70; www.bararc.com; Reguliersdwarsstraat 44) Classy, well-regarded restaurant-bar
The Gay News Amsterdam (www.gayamsterdam.nl) is a free paper and the Gaymap Amsterdam
with minimalist interior and a fashionable crowd (predominantly gay, though also lesbian and straight).
is a free map. Gay radio station MVS broadcasts 7pm to 8pm nightly on 106.8FM (cable 88.1FM),
Argos (Map pp88-9; %622 65 95; www.argosbar.com; Warmoesstraat 95) Amsterdams oldest leather bar. Dress
with a Sunday English programme.
code for the regular SOS (Sex On Sunday) party: nude or seminude.
Mantrav (Map pp88-9; %638 83 63; Kloveniersburgwal 40) specialises in gay resort and tour travel.
Cockring (Map pp88-9; %623 96 04; www.clubcockring.com; Warmoesstraat 96) Techno and trance
For gay books, try Intermale (Map pp88-9; %625 00 09; www.intermale.nl; Spuistraat 251), with 1
downstairs, cruising leather boys upstairs. Occasionally features live strip shows and shoes only nude parties.
floors of photo books, sexy mags, videos and porno postcards.
Gay Super Bingo (Map pp92-3; %776 46 00; Ferdinand Bolstraat 10; h8pm first Wed of month) Yes, bingo.
Vrolijk (Map pp88-9; %623 51 42; www.vrolijk.nu; Paleisstraat 135; h11am-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue, Wed
With a theme: all-American rodeo.
& Fri, 10am-7pm Thu, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun, closed Sun Oct-Dec) stocks major gay and lesbian magazines, Montmartre (Map pp92-3; %620 76 22; Halvemaansteeg 17) Beneath outrageous ceiling
as well as novels, guidebooks, postcards, art, poetry and DVDs.
decorations, patrons sing loudly to Dutch ballads and top-40 songs. Like a gay Eurovision minus the Finnish
Vrouwen In Druk (Map p91; Women in Print; %624 50 03; Westermarkt 5; hTue-Sat) specialises in
monster mash.
secondhand womens titles.
Saarein (Map p91; %623 49 01; Elandsstraat 119) Saarein was the focal point of the 70s Dutch feminist move-
ment; today its a favoured meeting place for lesbians. Theres a small menu with tapas and soups. Bar staff
Accommodation can advise on Sapphic nightlife.
Most hotels in town are lesbian and gay friendly, but some cater specifically to queer clientele: Soho (Map pp92-3; %616 13 12; Reguliersdwarsstraat 36) Kitsch, huge, two-storey bar throbbing with a young,
Aero Hotel (Map pp92-3; %622 77 28; www.aerohotel.nl; Kerkstraat 45-49; d with/without bathroom from 85/70; friendly, pretty clientele.
i) Steps away from Amsterdams gay action, with cosy rooms. Inevitably, a TV in the caf streams Ab Fab 24/7. Thermos Day Sauna (Map pp92-3; %623 91 58; www.thermos.nl; Raamstraat 33; admission 18; hnoon-
Amistad (Map pp92-3; %624 80 74; www.amistad.nl; Kerkstraat 42; s/d from 69/85) Rooms feature designer 11pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) Sprawling, popular place for sexual contact: porn
flourishes such as Philippe Starck chairs, CD players and chic soft furnishings. Take breakfast in the kitchen-dining movies, darkrooms, roof deck, hair salon, restaurant.
room with its communal tables and ruby-red walls. Thermos Night Sauna (Map pp92-3; %623 49 36; www.thermos.nl; Kerkstraat 58-60; admission 18;
Black Tulip Hotel (Map pp88-9; %427 09 33; www.blacktulip.nl; Geldersekade 16; s 115, d from 145; i) h11pm-8am Sun-Fri, to 10am Sat) Like the day sauna, except no restaurant, roof deck or hair salon.
The nine rooms feature full bondage equipment: slings, cages, hooks, chairs, black leather, latex.
Lilianes Home (Map pp86-7; %627 40 06; [email protected]; Sarphatistraat 119; d from 80) Once Amster- Festivals
dams sole women-only inn, this place now admits male visitors. Rooms have huge windows (some have balconies The biggest single party is the Roze Wester thrown at the Homomonument on Queens Day on
too) and personality. 30 April, with bands and street dancing. The Gay Pride Canal Parade (First Saturday in August;
Orfeo Hotel (Map pp92-3; %623 13 47; www.hotelorfeo.com; Leidsekruisstraat 14; s with bathroom 50, http://www.amsterdamgaypride.nl) is the only water-borne gay parade in the world, with lots of
.
d with/without bathroom 115/75; i) Simple wood-panelled rooms and the flirtiest breakfast room pride showing on the outlandish floats.

Rudolf Thorbecke, the liberal politician who %523 18 22; www.willetholthuysen.nl; Herengracht 605; adult/ South of Rembrandtplein, almost to the To your left is the Magere Brug (Map pp923),
created the Dutch parliamentary system in child 4/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun), a intersection of Prinsengracht and Reguliers- the most photographed drawbridge in the city.
1848. A modern art market is held here on beautiful house museum with a sumptuous in- gracht, stands the wooden Amstelkerk (Map pp92-3; Often mistranslated as the Skinny Bridge, it
Sunday in spring and summer. terior that was bequeathed to the city a century %520 00 70; Amstelveld 10; admission free; h9am-5pm). was actually named after the Mager sisters,
Beyond Thorbeckeplein is the raucous (or ago. Highlights include paintings by Jacob de The city planners had envisaged four new Prot- who lived on opposite sides of the canal. As
tacky, if you like) Rembrandtplein, focused Wit, the place de milieu (centrepiece) that was estant churches in the southern canal belt, but the sweet tale goes, the sisters had a footbridge
around the statue of the Nightwatch artist part of the familys Meissen table service, and the only one that materialised was the Oosterk- built so that they could visit with ease.
(Map pp923). The grassy square is lined the intimate garden with sundial. The top-floor erk (Map pp867). The Amstelkerk (built 1670)
with pubs, grand cafs and restaurants, and is galleries hold special exhibitions. was meant to be a temporary house of worship, Old South (Oud Zuid)
usually buzzing with good-time guys n gals The street running west from Rembrandt- but when funds for a grander structure were This genteel, wedge-shaped neighbourhood
looking for high times and potent toxins. plein to Muntplein is Reguliersbreestraat, home lacking it became permanent. features many fine examples of the Amster-
A night out on Rembrandtplein is best to strange bedfellows: an art gallery, fast-food Continue to the Amstel and youll see the Am- dam School of architecture, with porthole
preceded by a meander down Utrechtsestraat. joints and a glorious Art Deco cinema, the stelsluizen (Map pp923). These sluices allowed windows, mock prows and other maritime
Its relaxed, as shopping streets go, with the Tuschinskitheater (Map pp92-3; %626 26 33; Reguli- the canals to be flushed with fresh river water, motifs gracing the faades of weighty apart-
occasional tram going past cosy restaurants ersbreestraat 26-28). Built in the roaring 20s and and they were still operated by hand until a few ment complexes. The area is subdivided into
and unique stores. fully renovated in 2001, this cinema is a trib- years ago. Across the river stands the Koninklijk the Museum Quarter, the Concertgebouw
East of Utrechtsestraat, along the Heren- ute to glorious design inside and out the Theater Carr (p131), originally built as a circus area and Vondelpark, names that also appear
gracht, is the Museum Willet-Holthuysen (Map pp92-3; lobby alone is worth a visit. but now the citys largest theatre. on street signs.
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AMSTERDAM
MUSEUM QUARTER Other household names still on display under the slanting donkeys ear near the contains the Art Deco interior of Cinema
To paraphrase Arnold Schwarzenegger, Get include Johannes Vermeer (The Kitchen Concertgebouw. Parisien, an early Amsterdam cinema. The
your ass to Rijks. With a collection valued in Maid and Woman in Blue Reading a Letter), The neo-Renaissance gem that is the museums charming Caf Vertigo is a popular
the billions, the Rijksmuseum (Map pp92-3; %674 Frans Hals (The Merry Drinker) and Jan Concertgebouw (Concert Building; Map pp92-3; %671 meeting place and an ideal spot to people-
70 00; www.rijksmuseum.nl; Stadhouderskade 42; adult/under Steen (The Merry Family). Other must-sees 83 45; www.concertgebouw.nl; Concertgebouwplein 2-6; watch; on summer evenings films are shown
18yr 9/free; h10am-5pm) is the ne plus ultra of are in Sculpture & Applied Art (Delftware, hbox office 10am-7pm) attracts 840,000 visitors on the outdoor terrace. Adjoining the mu-
Dutch classical art, but until renovations fin- beautiful doll houses, porcelain, furniture) a year, making it the busiest concert hall in seum is an impressive information centre (%589
ish in 2008 only 400 masterpieces will be on and Asiatic Art (including the famous 12th- the world. 14 35; Vondelstraat 69-71; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm
display. century Dancing Shiva), as well as highlights Under the 50-year guidance of composer Sat), with books and videotapes that can be
Previously, there were some 5000 paint- from the museums store of 800,000 prints and conductor Willem Mengelberg (1871 viewed in booths.
ings and other artworks displayed in several and drawings. 1951), the Koninklijk Concertgebouw Orkest Built in 1882, the Hollandse Manege (Map pp92-
hundred exhibition galleries. But the mega Rather than being returned to storage, (Royal Concert Building Orchestra) devel- 3; %618 09 42; Vondelstraat 140) is an indoor riding
renovation project (cost: around 300 million) many other gems will be put on display in oped into one of the worlds finest. Dozens of school inspired by the famous Spanish Riding
will hopefully create more accessible exhibi- grateful venues around the country. Check landmark performances have been recorded School in Vienna. Through the passage to the
tion halls, as well as the underground gallery the schedules for Amsterdams Nieuwe Kerk here; the lure of playing in the venue is so rear door and up the stairs is a caf where you
that PJ Cuypers, its talented 19th-century (p96), Maastrichts Bonnefantenmuseum strong that local musicians accept pay thats can sip a beer or coffee while watching the
architect, laid down in his blueprints. If all (p278), and the Dordrechts Museum (p222). lower than that in many other countries. instructor put the horses through their paces.
goes well, the entire building will be returned Theres also an annexe at Schiphol Airport. The Grote Zaal has near-perfect acoustics. Opening times vary, so ring ahead.
to its original 1885 glory. The exterior of the Rijksmuseum remains The layout is surprisingly free of divisions, The Electrische Museumtramlijn Amsterdam
Never mind the building dust, the much- a feast for the eye, with tiled murals, faux- with a simple flat viewing area and a balcony (Tram Museum Amsterdam; Map pp86-7; %673 75 38; www
loved Dutch and Flemish paintings from Gothic towers and glints of gold harking around the perimeter. Weighty inscriptions .museumtram.nl; Amstelveenseweg 264; adult/child return
the Golden Age will remain on display. The back to the fortunes of the Golden Age. It show who the worlds leading composers were 3.50/1.80; h11am-5pm Sun mid-AprOct, 1pm & 3pm Wed
museums crowning glory is here too: Rem- wasnt popular with everyone: as the finish- in 1888, the year of its construction. Recitals Jul & Aug) isnt really a museum but a starting
brandts mesmerising Nightwatch (1650), the ing touches were being laid, King Willem III take place in the Kleine Zaal, a replica of the point for historic trams that clang from here
artists breathtaking group portrait of an Am- dubbed the Rijksmuseum the archbishops hall in the Felix Meritis building (p101). to the Amsterdamse Bos recreation area
sterdam civil militia led by Frans Banningh palace because of the Catholic influence on Free lunchtime concerts are held on Wed- a worthwhile 1-hour outing. The museum
Cocq, a future mayor and apparently not the Cuypers designs. The magnificent underpass nesday at noon. is just southwest of Vondelpark in the former
brightest of lights. The painting only acquired with its dreamy acoustics will be closed for the Haarlemmermeer train station.
its name in later years after grime darkened face-lift, to the chagrin of local buskers. VONDELPARK
the oils, long after Rembrandt painted the Behind the Rijksmuseum, the sprawling With its ponds, lawns, thickets and winding De Pijp
scene in a hotel near Muntplein. Warning: square known as Museumplein hosted the footpaths, this park (Map pp92-3; www.vondelpark This district, lying south of the broad Stad-
at any time, Nightwatch will likely be 20 deep World Exhibition of 1883. It has only recently .nl) is indisputably in the English style. Laid out houderskade, probably got its name from
with flashbulb-popping, focus-beam-directing been transformed into a huge park, with in the 1860s and 1870s for the bourgeoisie, it its straight, narrow streets that are said to
rubberneckers. an underground Albert Heijn supermarket was named after poet and playwright Joost resemble the stems of old clay pipes. This
van den Vondel, whom the Dutch celebrate was the citys first 19th-century slum, but its
as their Shakespeare. now undergoing a determined gentrification.
LUST FOR VINCENT During the late 1960s and early 1970s the De Pijp is still often called the Quartier Latin,
The outstanding Van Gogh Museum (Map pp92-3; % 570 52 00; www.vangoghmuseum.nl; Paulus authorities turned the park into an open-air thanks to its lively mix of people: labourers,
Potterstraat 7; adult/child 10/2.50; h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri) houses the worlds largest Van Gogh dormitory to alleviate the lack of accommoda- intellectuals, new immigrants, prostitutes,
collection. Quite simply, its one of the greatest Impressionist galleries on earth. The museum tion for the hordes of hippies who descended young urban professionals, gays, lesbians the
opened in 1973 to house the collection of Vincents younger brother Theo, and it consists of on Amsterdam. whole kit and caboodle, really.
about 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Vincent and his friends and contemporaries, including Today, the park is popular with joggers, The locals are best viewed at the Albert
Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet and Bernard. in-line skaters, buskers, lovers, families, mini- Cuypmarkt (Albert Cuypstraat; Map pp92-3; h9am-5pm
Trace Van Goghs life from his tentative start through to his Japanese phase, and on to ature Cruyffs everyone. Free concerts are Mon-Sat), Amsterdams largest and busiest mar-
depression and the black cloud that descended over him and his work: his paintings are shown held in summer at the open-air theatre, and ket, which celebrated its 100th birthday in
in chronological order on the 1st floor, from his moody Brabant canvases (The Potato Eaters) musicians are always performing throughout 2005. Here youll find food, clothes and other
to the famous works from his French period (The Yellow House in Arles, The Bedroom at Arles the park. Theres a charming teahouse as well general goods of every description and origin,
and several self-portraits). Sunflowers and other blossoms display his knack for using Mediter- (see p129). A stand at the Vondeltuin Cafete- often cheaper than anywhere else, as well as
ranean light and colour. Wheatfield with Crows is an ominous work that he painted shortly ria, near the Amstelveenseweg entrance (Map, quite a bit of plain junk. This is Amsterdam
before committing suicide. pp867), rents out in-line skates and gear. at its multicultural best. The crowds will be
Designed by Gerrit Rietveld, the exhibition spaces are generous enough to accommodate The Nederlands Filmmuseum (Map pp92-3; jam-packed, so be wary of pickpockets press-
insane crowds without obscuring the paintings. The sleek rear annex hosts changing exhibitions %589 14 00; www.filmmuseum.nl; Vondelpark 3) isnt ing up close.
and is an attraction in its own right, looking very much like an enormous clam (its nicknamed a museum per se but presides over a price- The areas other draw is the Heineken Experi-
the mussel). The library opens on weekdays only. less archive of films screened in its two thea- ence (Map pp92-3; %523 96 66; www.heinekenexperience
tres, sometimes with live music. One theatre .com; Stadhouderskade 78; admission 10; h10am-6pm
AMSTERDAM 108 A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M S i g h t s 109

AMSTERDAM
Tue-Sun), where you can peer inside the malt permanent annexes in London and Las Vegas, OOSTERPARK are named after groundbreaking scientists,
silos and at Heinie memorabilia. Admission and the latest, Hermitage Amsterdam (Map p95; The Oosterpark district (Map pp867), named including Marconi, and are filled with steam-
includes three glasses of the brew, after which %530 87 51; www.hermitage.nl; Nieuwe Herengracht 14; after the lush park at its core, was built in the ship engines, antique toasters, early washing
you might be tempted to follow in Freddie adult/child 6/free; h10am-5pm). There are six gal- 1880s for diamond-industry workers. Many of machines, electric lights and even gas street-
Heinekens footsteps. Freddie was reputed to leries housing exhibitions twice yearly, and them were Jewish families who had the means lamps, antique elevators and high-voltage
be a bit of a pants man: stationing himself they are as stately and as well curated as you to leave the cramped centre. generators.
at bars, when he overheard attractive lasses would expect. A visit to the anthropological Tropenmuseum Once the headquarters of the Dutch navy,
uttering the incantation, Id like a Heineken, The Nationaal Vakbondsmuseum (National Trade (Tropics Museum; Map pp86-7; %568 82 15; www.tropen the imposing pile on Amsterdam harbour
please, hed offer Im right here. But, then Union Museum; Map p95; %624 11 66; Henri Polaklaan 9; museum.nl; Linnaeusstraat 2; adult/child 7.50/3.75; is now home to the Nederlands Scheepvaart-
again, hes supposed to have also said that adult/child 2.50/1.25; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sun) h10am-5pm) is a pleasant and easy way to dip museum (Netherlands Shipping Museum; Map p95; %523
death is about becoming a worm cookie, so used to house a powerful diamond workers your toes into exotic cultures. You can stroll 22 22; www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl; Kattenburgerplein 1;
leave us out of it. union. Visiting union members will be in through an African market or a Mexican-style adult/child 9/4.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Sepmid-
South of Albert Cuypstraat is the Sarphati- their element, but most people come just to cantina, or listen to recordings of exotic musi- Jun, 10am-5pm daily mid-Junmid-Sep). You wont find
park, an English-style park named after shrewd see the fanciful design, an Art Deco showcase cal instruments. The childrens section (%568 better displays on the topic, as the heyday
19th-century Jewish doctor, chemist and busi- designed by HP Berlage, who considered it his 82 23) offers guides for six- to 12-year-olds if of Dutch seafaring comes alive with scores
nessman Samuel Sarphati. With its ponds, most successful work. Its a splendid spectacle, you book ahead. Theres an extensive library, of magnificent paintings: horizons crowded
fountains and abundant bird life, its an emi- from the diamond-shaped pinnacle to the a shop selling books, gifts and CDs, and the with three-masted merchant schooners, or
nently agreeable spot for a picnic lunch. magnificent hall with its brick arches; the Ekeko caf, serving exotic snacks and meals. naval ships engaged in fiery cannon battles.
murals, ceramics and leadlight windows are The Tropeninstituut Theater screens films Model ships abound, but there are also a few
Plantage & Oosterpark by famous artists of the day. The soaring, and hosts music, dance and plays by visit- full-sized vessels, such as the swanky sloop
PLANTAGE atrium-style staircase is graced with a three- ing international artists. Its a grand place built for King Willem I in the early 1800s.
In the 19th century the Jewish elite began storey-tall chandelier. to spend a lazy Monday, when most other The cinema shows a vivid re-enactment of a
to move from the citys centre into the area Around the corner, the Verzetsmuseum (Re- museums are closed. voyage to the East Indies.
called Plantage (Plantation), where they built sistance Museum; Map p95; %620 25 35; Plantage Kerklaan The pice de rsistance is the replica of
imposing villas. Until then Plantage had been 61; adult/child 5/2.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Eastern Islands the Amsterdam, a beautiful historic square-
a district of parks and gardens. Sat-Mon) describes the daily realities of the East of Centraal Station and north of the medi- rigger moored alongside the museum. The
The Hortus Botanicus (Botanical Garden; Map p95; Dutch resistance during WWII. Fascinating eval centre, Nieuwmarkt and the Plantage area, stern bears the three crosses of Amsterdams
%625 90 21; Plantage Middenlaan 2A; adult/child 6/3; tales of active and passive resistance are told the islands of Kattenburg, Wittenburg and Oost- emblem as well as the brightly painted statues
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun, to 9pm daily Jul through photos, documents and sound frag- enburg were constructed in the 1650s to handle of Mercurius (god of trade) and Neptune
& Aug, to 4pm daily Dec & Jan) was founded in 1638 as ments. Theres also a library in the Plancius the rapidly expanding seaborne trade. (god of the sea). Apparently the gods werent
a herb garden for the citys doctors. It quickly building, built in 1876 as the social club for Nowadays the area is all about modern watching over the Amsterdam on its maiden
became a repository for tropical seeds and a Jewish choir. housing, but some splendid faades of old voyage in 1749: it became stranded off the
plants brought by Dutch ships from the East The Hollandsche Schouwburg (Holland Theatre; Map gabled homes remain along Wittenburger- English coast and was stripped of all valu-
and West Indies, and coffee, pineapple, cinna- p95; %626 99 45; www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl; Plantage gracht, while the ex-islands are seamlessly ables, including its iron nails. Climb on board,
mon and oil palm were distributed from here Middenlaan 24; admission free; h11am-4pm) played a linked to central Amsterdam. Kattenburg used peruse the captains quarters and watch actors
throughout the world. Guided tours are given tragic role during WWII. After 1942 the theatre to be the seat of the Dutch admiralty, and its recreate life at sea.
on Sunday at 2pm. The wonderful mixture became a detention centre for Jews awaiting dockyards here once fitted men-of-war for The Stedelijk Museum (Map pp86-7; %573 29 11;
of colonial and modern structures includes deportation. Little more than the faade is the royal navy. www.stedelijk.nl; 2nd & 3rd fl, Post CS Bldg, Oosterdokskade
a restored octagonal seed house; a modern, left standing today, and there are a memorial East of Artis zoo stands an 18th-century 5; adult/7-16yr & senior/under 7yr 9/5/free; h10am-6pm)
three-climate glasshouse with subtropical, room and an exhibition room with videos and grain mill known as De Gooyer (Map pp867), features around 100,000 pieces including
tropical and desert plants; and a monumental documents on the buildings history. the sole survivor of five windmills from this Impressionist works by Monet, Picasso and
palm house. The 400-year-old cycad here is The oldest zoo on the European conti- corner of the city. The former public baths Chagall; sculptures by Rodin and Moore; De
the worlds oldest potted plant, while the Hor- nent, Artis (Map p95; %523 34 00; www.artis.nl; Plantage alongside now house the Brouwerij t IJ (Map Stijl landmarks by Mondrian; and pop art
tus Medicus is a medicinal herb garden that Kerklaan 38-40; adult/child 16/12.50; h9am-5pm, to 6pm pp86-7; %622 83 25; Funenkade 7; h3-7.45pm Wed- by Warhol and Lichtenstein. The Post CS
attracts students from around the globe. The summer) has an alphabet soup of wildlife: alli- Sun), a small brewery producing potent but building is a temporary home the original
Hortus caf, the Orangery, recently reopened gators, birds, chimps and so on up to zebras. tasty beers under the distinctive ostrich label. is undergoing renovation until 2008. The 2nd,
after refurbishment and is deservedly popular, The layout is full of delightful ponds, statues, Apart from De Bekeerde Suster (p128), off 3rd and 11th floors at Post CS will be occupied
especially for its terrace. Jazz and world music and leafy, winding pathways. Themed habitats Nieuwmarkt, its the only brewery in town. by permanent and temporary exhibitions until
evenings take place here on Friday evening in such as African savannah and tropical rain- Theres a tour on Friday at 4pm. 2007. In the meantime the Stedelijks former
July and August. Note that a combination ad- forest are pretty convincing. For many, the Steampunks will love EnergeticA (Map pp86-7; home on Museumplein (next to the Van Gogh
mission ticket (9) is available for the Hortus aquarium complex is the highlight, featuring %422 12 27; Hoogte Kadijk 400; adult/under 12yr 3/free; Museum; Map pp923) is undergoing a vigor-
and the Hermitage Amsterdam, about five coral reefs, shark tanks and an Amsterdam h10am-4pm Mon-Fri), one of Amsterdams more ous face-lift. The responsibility rests heavily
minutes walk away. canal displayed from a fishs point of view. unusual and appealing museums. Housed on the guardians of Amsterdams art heritage:
St Petersburgs Hermitage collection is so There are also a planetarium and a kiddie in a former power station, it showcases cen- 600,000 visitors per year are expected after a
massive it has had to expand abroad, with petting zoo. turies of technological advances. Galleries spanking new museum is unveiled. Like the
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Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk is presenting some The Amsterdam RAI (%549 12 12; www.rai.nl;
of its works around the country throughout Europaplein 22), an exhibition and conference BICYCLES: THE MAN-MACHINE RULES
the renovation period. centre, is the largest complex of its kind in the When researching this book, here are some of the sights we saw on Amsterdam streets:
The green, shiplike building on the eastern country. From boats and caravans to fashion A man with one leg in plaster pedalling his bike with the other leg, with crutches strapped to
harbour is NEMO (Map p95; %09009191000; www shows, few events are beyond its reach. his back.
.e-nemo.nl; Oosterdok 2; admission 11; h10am-5pm
A man riding a bike with a blow-up sex doll strapped to his back.
Tue-Sun, plus Mon Jul & Aug), an interactive science ACTIVITIES
museum with hands-on displays aimed at Cycling Four drunks riding one bike.
children and school groups. There are loads Pedal power rules in the Netherlands: thats A woman riding a bike while wearing stilettos and with her G-string showing.
of interactive exhibits: drawing with a laser, a Dutch truism, simply a fact of life. Bicycles, A girl riding side-saddle while kissing the boy piloting the bike.
antigravity trick mirrors, and a lab where known in Dutch as fiets, are everywhere, and A customised bicycle modelled after Dennis Hoppers hog in Easy Rider.
you can answer questions such as How black especially in Amsterdam, where they outnum-
is black? and How do you make cheese? ber cars. But visitors are often surprised at the A man riding with one hand while holding a plate-glass window with the other, seemingly
Normally free, the rooftop plaza is trans- nature of Dutch bikes: its rare to find fancy oblivious to the threat of severed arteries in the event of emergency braking.
formed in summer into Nemo Beach, (admission mountain bikes in the citys dedicated bike A man who must have been over 100 years old riding a bicycle at about 2km/h.
2.50, free with NEMO admission), in reality an elaborate lanes virtually everyone rides sturdy, heavy A woman riding a bicycle weaving and wobbling all over the place, her vision almost totally
sandbox occupying just a small section of the two- or three-gear (often no gear) granny obscured by a massive bunch of flowers.
roof. Further up, DJs spin, and theres a bar, a rattlers (Gazelle or Sparta brands). Theres A group of kids playing football while riding bicycles.
convivial atmosphere and nice views. no need for the fancy stuff in a land thats as
Numerous mothers riding three-wheelers with toddlers in a barrow attached to the front or in
flat as a pancake. Also, a 21-speed racer will
a box towed along behind.
Amstelveen probably be stolen within an hour of being
This quiet dormitory town is next to the Am- parked: 150,000 bikes are nicked in Amster- A bicycle barrelling down a side street with no-one on it.
sterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Woods; Map pp86-7; www dam per year. See the boxed text, opposite, for An abandoned bicycle that looked as though it had been twisted into a figure 8.
.amsterdamsebos.nl; Bosbaanweg 5; admission free), the more information and tips on hiring a bike. A bicycle up a tree.
result of a 1930s job-creation scheme. A vast
Bicycles in canals.
tract of lakes, woods and meadows, the bos Gyms
draws many Amsterdammers looking for a Barrys Health Centre (Map pp92-3; %626 10 36; Dutch police riding the same crappy bicycles as everyone else.
leafy good time. Its only drawback is the back- www.barryshealthcentre.nl; Lijnbaansgracht 350; day/ Almost everyone steering their bikes with one hand and talking on a mobile phone or eating
ground noise from nearby Schiphol Airport. week pass 15/28; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat a sandwich with the other, while perilously weaving in and out of trams, trucks and cars.
The visitors centre (%545 61 00; h8.30am-5pm) has & Sun) Latest machines and classes, sauna, steam, tanning
leaflets on walking and cycling paths. beds and a cardio theatre. Tips
Youll also find an animal enclosure with Fitness First (Map pp88-9; %530 03 40; www When on foot, dont play the dumb tourist and stand in the citys dedicated bike lanes staring
bison, a goat farm, and a rowing course with .fitnessfirst.nl; Nieuwezijds Kolk 15; day pass 16, month at the sights: youll be knocked over by a speeding bike before you can say moederneuker,
watercraft for hire. The Bosmuseum (Forestry Mu- pass from 29; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & because here you give way to them.
seum; Map pp86-7; %676 21 52; Koenenkade 56; admission Sun) Cardio and weightlifting equipment, group classes, When riding, watch for cars. Cyclists have the right of way, except when vehicles are entering
free; h10am-5pm) has displays about flora and sauna, steam and aroma rooms, sun beds, beauty treat- from the right, although not all motorists respect this. Also watch for dumb tourists (see above).
fauna. Theres bike hire at the main entrance ments and free video loans for members.
Watch out for tram tracks if your wheel gets get caught in one, you will break your bones.
at Van Nijenrodeweg. Take the historic tram Garden Gym (Map p95; %626 87 72; www.the
from Haarlemmermeer station (p107) or bus garden.nl; Jodenbreestraat 158; day pass 9-12.50, month By law, after dusk you need to use lights on your bike (front and rear) and have reflectors on
170, 171 or 172 from Centraal Station. pass 40-61; h9am-11pm Mon, Wed & Fri, noon-11pm both wheels.
Nearby is the CoBrA Museum (Map pp86-7; %547 Tue, noon-10pm Thu, 9am-4pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Always lock your bike securely. Bike theft is rampant (see opposite).
50 50; www.cobra-museum.nl; Sandbergplein 1; adult/senior & Recently rated Amsterdams best gym for women, with
student/child 6-16yr/under 6yr 7/4/2.50/free; h11am-5pm aerobics, sauna, massage, physiotherapy and dietary advice. Fast Facts
Tue-Sun). Formed by artists from Copenhagen, Amsterdam has 400km of bike paths, identified by signage and their reddish colour.
Brussels and Amsterdam after WWII, the Saunas There are an estimated 600,000 bicycles in Amsterdam at any given time.
CoBrA movement (p41) vented the fury of Saunas are mixed affairs and most saunees
The bike-parking garage at Centraal Station has space for 2500 bicycles.
abstract expressionism. The modern paint- like to sweat it out in the raw, so check your
ings, ceramics and statues on display here still modesty at the front desk or rent a towel.
polarise audiences today. With the temporary For information about gay saunas, see the Find a Bike
relocation of the Stedelijk Museum, this con- boxed text, p104. Visit Frame Fiets Gallery (Map pp92-3; %672 75 88; Frans Halsstraat 26A) for custom bicycles.
temporary, two-storey building is your best Hammam (Map pp86-7; %681 48 18; www Combine two Dutch passions, beer and bicycles: hire a Fietscaf (%0653864090; www.fietscafe
bet to see the work of this fascinating group. .hammamamsterdam.nl; Zaanstraat 88; adult/2-5yr/6-12yr .nl), a mobile, pedal-powered bar that seats up to 17 people per bike, with a big beer keg
The museum is opposite the Amstelveen bus 15/4/11; hnoon-10pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun, attached. One pedals, the other 16 sit at the bar and drink. Then you all swap around.
terminal (bus 170, 171 or 172 from Centraal last entry 2hr before closing) Attractive, women-only, See p136 for a list of bike-rental shops.
Station in Amsterdam). Turkish-style place.
AMSTERDAM 112 A M S T E R D A M W a l k i n g T o u r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M A m s t e r d a m f o r C h i l d re n 113

AMSTERDAM
Koan Float (Map pp88-9; %555 00 33; www Zuiderbad (Map pp92-3; %678 13 90; Hobbemastraat AMSTERDAM WALKING TOUR 0
0
200 m
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.koanfloat.nl; Herengracht 321; floating 45/60min 30/38; 26; adult/child 3/2.70) Venerable indoor pool (built 1912)
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at 8pm near the Nederlands Filmmuseum in Begin at the Nationaal Monument (1; p96) and

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the Vondelpark for an 8.30pm departure. The head northeast along the Damrak past the
skate is cancelled if the streets are wet. graceful Beurs Van Berlage (2; p84). Heading
Vondelpark itself is a good bet for a spot of southeast along Oude Brugsteeg, youll come Kloveniersburgwal, note the narrow Kleine tuous Art Deco stylings of the Tuschinskitheater
Rollerblading. For skates and gear, try Rent-a- across Warmoesstraat (3; p84). The revered Oude Trippenhuis (11; see the boxed text, p98). Cross (20; p104). The famous floating flower market,
Skate (Map pp86-7; %664 50 91; Vondelpark 7; skate hire Kerk (4; p85) is the virtual entrance to red light the canal and head east along Nieuwe Hoog- the Bloemenmarkt (21; p134) is on the other side
from 5; hMar-Oct), near the Amstelveenseweg action. Nearby is the Prostitution Information straat, then southeast along St Antoniesbre- of the Singel; reach it by heading south down
entrance. Centre (5; p96) pick up a map of the Red Light estraat. Across the Oude Schans, have a beer Vijzelstraat.
District here. North is the clean-as-a-whistle at Caf de Sluyswacht (12; p128); the Museum het
Swimming Museum Amstelkring (6; p96). Walk over to the Rembrandthuis (13; p99) is across the street. AMSTERDAM FOR CHILDREN
Amsterdam has many indoor pools and out- Oudezijds Achterburgwal and whisk past the Walk down Jodenbreestraat past the Mozes Artis (p108) has a fantastic aquarium, and you
door pools (in summer). Ring ahead: hours can underwhelming Erotic Museum (7; %624 73 03; en Aronkerk (14); 100m southeast is the Joods can come face-to-face with bison at the chil-
vary from day to day or season to season, few Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54; admission 3; hnoon-midnight), (Jewish) Historisch Museum (15; p99). The Water- drens farm in Amsterdamse Bos (p110), in the
are open past 7pm, and there are often restricted the Casa Rosso (8; p85) erotic theatre, and the looplein market (16; p134) faces the Stopera (17; south of the city. But start with a canal cruise.
sessions nude (of course), Muslim, children, Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum (9; p85). Near p99); visit the market before crossing the Blau- Then climb the steeple of the Westerkerk (p102),
women, seniors, clubs, lap swimming etc. this museum, cross the canal and head north wbrug. Stop at the Museum Willet-Holthuysen with the wacky imperial crown on top.
De Mirandabad (Map pp86-7; %536 44 44; De along its opposite bank to Bloedstraat. From (18; p104) on the Herengracht. Turn right The Holland Experience 3D (Map pp92-3; %422
Mirandalaan 9; admission 3.30) Indoor and outdoor pools, here, head east to the Nieuwmarkt, where onto Utrechtsestraat toward Rembrandtplein (19; 22 33; www.holland-experience.nl; Waterlooplein 17; adult/
twisting slides, a beach, a wave machine, squash courts, the historic Waag (10; p98) commands atten- p104) for cafs galore. Make your way north- child 8.50/7.25; h10am-6pm) is truly unbeliev-
fitness room. Ring for opening hours. tion. Heading south from Nieuwmarkt, along west along Reguliersbreestraat, past the sump- ably tacky, but the film is interactive: when
AMSTERDAM 114 A M S T E R D A M A m s t e r d a m f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M T o u r s 115

AMSTERDAM
the dam breaks, your kids will be sprinkled Maybe you would like to instil some culture Finally, the underground TunFun (p99) Tours are a little less youth-oriented than Mikes, are
with water. into their tiny brains. Tropenmuseum (p109) can playground is good for soaking up excess limited to 12 tour participants per guide, and depart from
Science and technology centre NEMO (p110) deliver, with its separate childrens section energy. the office. Reservations recommended.
is hands-on, while the Scheepvaartmuseum featuring activities focusing on exotic loca-
(p109) allows children to clamber on a replica tions (although shows tend to be in Dutch). TOURS Canal Tours
of the Amsterdam, the ship that wrecked off The Joods Historisch Museum (p99) also has Bicycle Tours Several operators depart from moorings at
the coast of England in 1749. Alternatively, a childrens section about Jewish life in Mikes Bike Tours (Map pp92-3; %622 79 70; www Centraal Station, Damrak, Rokin and opposite
ride a historic tram at the Electrische Museum- Amsterdam. .mikesbikeamsterdam.com; Kerkstraat 134; bike tour incl the Rijksmuseum just hop on board.
tramlijn Amsterdam (p107). If the kids are hyper, dunk em in the swim- bike rental adult/child 22/15, bike & boat tour 29/20; Canal Bus (Map pp92-3; %623 98 86; www.canal
Your little companions will love Madame ming pools at De Mirandabad (p112), where hbike tour 12.30pm Marmid-May & Sep-Nov, 11am .nl; Weteringschans 26; per adult/child 16/11) Hop-on,
Tussauds (Map pp88-9; %522 10 10; www.madame theres a beach and a wave machine. The IJs- & 4pm mid-MayAug, bike & boat tour noon Tue-Sun hop-off canal boats servicing most of the
tussauds.nl; Dam 20; adult/child 20/12; h10am-6.30pm complex Jaap Eden (p112), with indoor and out- Jun-Aug) Highly recommended four-hour tours around the big destinations. At night, theres a 1-hour
Sep-Jun, 9.30am-8.30pm Jul & Aug) and will doubtless door ice-skating rinks, is another good bet. centre of town and into the countryside. Also offers bike jazz cruise (43, runs 8pm and 10pm Sat-
be filled with wonderment when they realise The Oud Zuid (p105) is a fine neighbour- and boat tours (about five hours), including drinks on urdays from April to November). Pick up
theres absolutely no difference between the hood for cycling with the kids in tow wide board and a visit to the Vondelpark. Meet at the reflecting the canal bus at one of 14 stops around the
wax David Beckham and the real thing (if the streets, parks and fine old residential areas. pool on Museumplein behind the Rijksmuseum. city, including one opposite Centraal Station
2006 World Cup was any guide). The Vondelpark (p107) is great for picnics and Yellow Bike Tours (Map pp88-9; %620 69 40; www (Map pp889).
The Amsterdams Marionetten Theater (p131) has ducks and a childrens playground. You .yellowbike.nl; Nieuwezijds Kolk 29; city/countryside tour Holland International (Map pp88-9; %622 77 88;
near the Nieuwmarkt gives captivating shows can put your kids to work making their own per person 18.50/25; hcity tour 9.30am & 1pm Sun-Fri, www.hir.nl; Prins Hendrikkade 33A; 1hr cruise adult/child
such as Mozarts The Magic Flute, and over lunch at the parks Kinderkookkaf. The park 9.30am & 2pm Sat Apr1 Nov, countryside tour 11am daily 8.50/5) The one-hour canal cruise (every 15
Christmas theres usually a circus in Koninklijk is also large enough to effectively hide from Apr1 Nov) Three-hour city tours or six-hour countryside minutes 9am to 6pm, every 30 minutes 6pm
Theater Carr (p131). them when you really need a break. tours through the waterland north of central Amsterdam. to 10pm) is very popular. Theres also a roster

AN INSIDERS GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM, PART 2: PETER MOSKOS Simon Sellars What about restaurants?
Peter Moskos, along with Toine Rikken, founded the St Nicolaas Boat Club in 1997, a very popular Semhar on the Marnixstraat the only Ethiopian restaurant in town that makes its enjara
venture that provides an alternative angle on Amsterdam and its waterlogged history. I asked bread with tef, the traditional Ethiopian flour. Semhar is distinctive in a city that has a great
Peter to regale me with his unique perspective. variety of food but very few truly memorable restaurants. I like the herring stands on bridges.
Favourite area of Amsterdam? A broodje haaring is a very cheap lunch so Dutch, and you just cant get it anywhere else. Eel
On a boat in the IJ. Theres no better place to understand the importance of water and ship- is also delicious.
ping to Amsterdams history plus its beautiful out there. Whats Amsterdams best-kept secret?
And your least favourite? Co-ed, naked saunas that arent sleazy. I like Fenomeen out past Vondelpark essential when
Any big, ugly road with too many cars, although architecturally every place has something the weather is bad.
interesting and can tell you something about urban planning. Favourite local slang or swear words?
Whats the biggest misconception about Amsterdam? Im trying to get spetterend back into the vocab its a very uncool way of saying cool. But
That its the worlds sex capital. Its not the Dutch just have the sense to put it all out in the Dutch have a shortage of swear words, so they often resort to English.
the open and capitalise on it. And while it may be the worlds recreational-drug capital, stop I once saw a respectable chap bicycling in Amsterdam with a blow-up sex doll strapped to
bingeing and enjoy it like you live here year round. his back. Whats your strangest Amsterdam bike story?
Tell me your favourite Amsterdam experience. A guy wearing a jockstrap on rollerblades. He used to be everywhere, even in the cold weather.
Biking and boating. And Koninginnedag (Queens Day; p117) the biggest drunk garage sale He disappeared a couple of years ago. Perhaps he caught pneumonia and passed on.
in the world. What annoys you the most about Amsterdam: the dog shit, the service or something
Least favourite? else?
The weather especially the winter weather. Or the winter weather in the summer. And the Taxis. Avoid them like dog shit. But the dog-shit problem is basically a thing of the past if
rain that never stops. you have a problem with it now, you should have seen how it was before. I really have to say
What Amsterdam-specific film or book would you recommend? the bad service, without a doubt its legendary.
The film Amsterdammed is fun, with a great high-speed boat chase, but it doesnt depict How has living in Amsterdam changed you?
anything of reality. Simon is the best Amsterdam film ever and maybe the best-ever Dutch Its made me realise that bikes are the best form of urban transit possible. And that, basically,
movie. Jan-Willem van der Wetterings cop stories are pretty good, but Geert Maks Amsterdam this is a city that works. Theres something to be said for literally living on top of each other
is the single best book about the city. and in close-knit surroundings. Its given me the opportunity to see how a large city can allow
Your favourite Amsterdam bar and coffeeshop? everyone to do their own thing without getting all bent out of shape about it.
Any brown caf in the Jordaan is great get a jenever and a beer and talk with the locals. Describe the St Nicolaas Boat Club for someone new to it.
The coffeeshop De Rokerij has a super-cool atmosphere sort of how I imagine a 19th-century Were a friendly entry point to understanding Amsterdam from the greatest perspective of
Chinese opium den would have been. And of course my brothers bar at Boom Chicago, because all: the canals. We offer cosy rides with knowledgeable pilots, and all we ask for is a donation
thats the home base for our boats. at the end.
AMSTERDAM 116 A M S T E R D A M Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 117

AMSTERDAM
of candlelight lunch and dinner cruises (adults Urban Home & Garden Tours (%688 12 43; www
25 to 69, children 16 to 45). .uhgt.nl; per person incl a drink 22.50; h10.15am Fri, ORANGE DAY
Lovers Museum Boat (Map pp88-9; %530 10 11.15am Sat, 12.15pm Sun Apr-Oct) These well-regarded One Amsterdam event not to miss is Koninginnedag or Queens Day, or Orange Day which is
90; www.lovers.nl; Prins Hendrikkade 25-27) Offers tours (2 to three hours) look at Amsterdam dwellings from held in celebration of Queen Beatrixs birthday on April 30, when over a million revellers make
a number of night-time cruises, including the the perspective of home, garden and even gable. Visits in- the city seem like the freakingest place on the planet. People descend from all over the country,
candlelight cruise (24, 8.30pm nightly from clude 18th-century, 19th-century and contemporary homes. clogging and choking the train system to breaking point.
spring to December, most nights January to The whole shebang is basically an excuse for a gigantic piss-up and to wear ridiculous out-
spring) with wine and Dutch cheese. FESTIVALS & EVENTS fits, all in orange, the countrys national colour. Its quite a sight to see the entire city awash
Rederij Noord-Zuid (Map pp92-3; %679 13 70; www February in orange fake afros, orange beer, orange balloon animals, more orange beer, orange dope,
.canal-cruises.nl; Stadhouderskade 25; 75min canal cruises adult/ Carnaval A Catholic tradition, best enjoyed in the south yet more orange beer, orange leather boys, orange skater dykes, orange rollercoasters, orange
child 9/5.50; hevery 30min 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, every hr of the country, although Amsterdammers also don silly clogs, orange fashion victims, orange grannies and grandpas, even more orange beer, orange
10am-5pm Nov-Mar) The main tour clocks in at 75 costumes and a party tude. Red BullWear something orange.
minutes. Evening cruises (adult/child 13.50/9) Commemoration of the February Strike (25 Febru- Theres also a free market throughout the city, where anyone can sell anything they like, as
are offered at least twice per night from April ary) In memory of the 1941 anti-Nazi general strike. well as street parties and live music.
to October, and at 8pm only Thursday to To get you in the mood for Koninginnedag, the website Expatica (www.expatica.com) supplies
Sunday throughout the rest of the year. March a helpful orange vocabulary, which you can bandy about on April 30 at your leisure. Try this on
St Nicolaas Boat Club (Map pp92-3; %423 01 01; Stille Omgang (Silent Procession; Sunday closest to 15 for size with the nearest reveller: say Hey man/woman, Ive got
www.petermoskos.com/boat; donation 10) If you blanch March) Catholics walk along the Holy Way to commemo- oranjegekte: orange madness
at the thought of the foggy windows and stale rate the 1345 Miracle of Amsterdam.
oranjekoorts: orange fever
commentary of the big glassed-in canal boats,
do yourself a favour and try this not-for-profit April oranjestemming: orange mood
venture (see the boxed text, p114), which takes Koninginnedag (Queens Day; 30 April) Celebrated oranjeeuforie: orange euphoria
small, old barges out onto the canals. Patrons countrywide, but especially in Amsterdam (see the boxed
oranjesfeer: orange atmosphere
are allowed to smoke dope and drink beer on text, opposite).
board, while the captains amuse with stories Amsterdam Fantastic Film Festival (www.afff.nl) oranjemania: orange mania
about alternative Amsterdam. The trip will European and international fantasy, horror and science-
definitely show you a different side of the city fiction movies. Most likely theyll look at you with pity, replying, Man/woman, youve really got the oranjeziekte
everything from the famous Mohawk Duck to (orange sickness).
the thinnest house in town. Departure times May
are according to numbers; inquire at Boom Remembrance Day (4 May) For the fallen of WWII.
Chicago, Leidseplein 12. Queen Beatrix lays a wreath on the Dam and the city Roots Music Festival (last week of June; www.amster Hartjesdag (mid-August; www.hartjesdagen.nl) Ancient
observes two minutes silence at 8pm. damroots.nl) World music and culture with performances, medieval theatrical celebration involving loads of cross-
Other Tours Liberation Day (5 May) The end of German occupa- parades, workshops and a market, all in the Oosterpark. dressing, revived recently by the citys trannies.
Amsterdam Segway Tours (%0641424344; www tion in 1945 is commemorated with street parties, a free Over het IJ Festival (www.overhetij.nl) From June Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival; late August) Five days
.glide.cc; per person 60; h10am & 8pm spring- market and live music, especially in Vondelpark. or July, big performing-arts events (dance, theatre, music) of free classical concerts in courtyards and private canalside
Christmas) Two daily tours on Dubyas favourite contraption, Oosterpark Festival (first week in May; www.ooster take place for a week and a half around the former homes, as well as on the canals themselves.
the Segway. The four-hour daytime tour covers the major parkfestival.nl) Two-day multicultural festival. NDSM shipyards. Hartjesdagen Zeedijk (third Monday and weekend
sights; the three-hour night tour takes in lesser-known Luilak (Lazy Bones) In the early hours on the Saturday leading up to it) Dating back to medieval times, this festi-
areas such as De Pijp. If you havent been on a Segway before Whit Sunday, children go around ringing door bells, July val showcases street theatre; theres a parade and all kinds
before, theyll train you so you wont get bushwhacked. Up making noise and waking people up. Luilak is a remnant of Robeco Zomerconcerten (until late August; www of music along the Zeedijk and in the Nieuwmarkt.
to seven people, by reservation. Meet at the Nieuwmarkt a pre-Christian festival celebrating the awakening of spring. .robecozomerconcerten.nl) A quality line-up of 80-odd Uitmarkt (late August; www.uitmarkt.nl) The reopening
(Map pp889) by the metro exit. Europerve (www.europerve.com) Three-day latex, PVC classical, jazz and world-music concerts at Amsterdams of Amsterdams cultural season, with three days of free
Randy Roys Red Light Tours (%0641853288; www and rubber S&M party. Bring out the gimp top concert venue, the Concertgebouw. concerts and information booths around the big museums
.randyroysredlighttours.com; per person incl a drink Amsterdam Literary Festival (Late May; www 5 Days Off (www.5daysoff.nl) Indoor electronica dance and Leidseplein.
12.50; h8pm Sun-Thu, 8pm & 10pm Fri & Sat) Does .amsterdamliteraryfestival.nl) International and local parties at various venues, including Paradiso and the
exactly what it says on the tin. Over 90 minutes, visit guests in a three-day wordfest. Heineken Music Hall. Other events take place at the September
Quentin Tarantino and Iron Mike Tysons favourite Netherlands Media Arts Institute. Bloemencorso (Flower Parade; first Saturday of the month;
Amsterdam haunts and learn about the business of sex, June Julidans (www.julidans.nl) Dance festival that gets some www.bloemencorso.com/aalsmeer) Spectacular procession of
Amsterdam style. Departs from the Victoria Hotel, across Holland Festival (virtually all month; www.holland 20,000 visitors, remarkable given that it takes place in blossomy floats from Aalsmeer to the Dam and back again.
from Centraal Station (Map pp889). festival.nl) The countrys biggest extravaganza for theatre, small venues. Jordaan Festival (second week of the month; www
Red Light District Tour (%623 63 02; www dance, film and pop music, with a justified claim to .jordaanfestival.nl) This street festival also sees hundreds of
.zoomamsterdam.com; per person 15; h5pm) This 2- cutting-edge innovation. August small boats take to the canals.
hour tour covers the history of the Red Light District. All Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre (until late August) Free De Parade (first two weeks of the month; www Monumentendag (www.bmz.amsterdam.nl) Registered
questions answered. Meet at the caf inside the Schreier- events held for the people. Theres high drama and concerts .deparade.nl) Carnivalesque outdoor theatre festival, held in historical buildings have open days on the second weekend
storen (Map pp889), across from Centraal Station. across the genres from pop and world to classical and jazz. the Martin Luther King Park, with unforgettable ambience. of the month.
AMSTERDAM 118 A M S T E R D A M S l e e p i n g Book accommodation
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Chinese Festival (www.zeedijk.nl/chineesfestival-eng The tourist offices and the GWK exchange Misc Eat Drink Sleep (Map pp88-9; %330 62 41; that are pure 17th century: gilded mirrors,
.html) Along the Zeedijk, Amsterdams Chinatown, youll office at Centraal Station have hotel-booking www.hotelmisc.com; Kloveniersburgwal 20; s/d/tr fireplaces and magnificent chandeliers. The
find food, cultural performances and, of course, the lion services see p81 for details. Reviews in this 120/145/167; i) Book the lovely baroque guest rooms are elegantly furnished with
dance. section are grouped according to the following room for romantic times. The Africa room modern facilities. Theres a room with two-
Dam Tot Dam Loop (www.damloop.nl) A 16km price categories for a double room: budget, is like its name, while the room of wonders is person Jacuzzi and garden patio (from 270).
foot-race between the Dam in Amsterdam and the Dam less than 70; midrange, 70 to 150; top end, a modern Moroccan escapade. A fresh-cooked Breakfast is 12.
in Zaandam, with around 30,000 runners and 200,000 more than 150. breakfast (included in the rate) is served until Hotel Amsterdam Wiechmann (Map pp92-3;
spectators. noon, and massage services can be arranged. %626 33 21; www.hotelwiechmann.nl; Prinsengracht
Robodock (late September; www.robodock.org) A full-on, Medieval Centre Its just near the Nieuwmarkt. 328; s/d/tr/q from 75/125/175/190; i) This friendly
extraordinary festival that blends technology and art. Expe- BUDGET Hotel Rsidence Le Coin (Map pp92-3; %524 68 family-run hotel, occupying three houses, has
rience humans and robots interacting and enacting mixed- Hotel Winston (Map pp88-9; %623 13 80; www.winston 00; www.lecoin.nl; Nieuwe Doelenstraat 5; s 110, d from a marvellous canalside location. The cosy but
media performance art and theatre events, accompanied by .nl; Warmoesstraat 129; dm/s/d from 22/45/56) How 130, q 248) This shiny new inn, owned by the lovingly cared-for rooms are furnished like an
pyrotechnics, explosions, live music, projections to make a lot out of a little: take some func- University of Amsterdam, features 42 high- antique shop, plus there are country quilts
an audiovisual extravaganza thats sure to blow your mind tional rooms and get local artists to theme class apartments spread over seven historical and lobby tchotchkes (knick-knacks) that have
(and a lot of machinery). them with motifs including Arabian typog- buildings, all equipped with designer furni- been there for some 50 years (including a suit
raphy, jigsaw puzzles and, fittingly for the ture and kitchenettes and all reachable by of armour and a potbellied stove).
October red-light location, bizarre sex. Theres a jolly lift. Breakfast (9) is served in a nearby caf. Canal House Hotel (Map pp88-9; %622 51 82; www
Amsterdam Marathon (mid-month; www.amsterda 24-hour bar and the Winstons own club Hotel Brouwer (Map pp88-9; %624 63 58; www .canalhouse.nl; Keizersgracht 148; r from 140) Its hard
marathon.nl) Thousands of runners loop through the (p129) next door. .hotelbrouwer.nl; Singel 83; s/d 50/85; n) This lovely to know where to spend your time in this
city, starting and finishing at the Olympic Stadium (Map Aivengo Youth Hostel (Map pp88-9; %620 11 55; building dates back to 1652. The eight rooms, splendid boutique hotel. The 17th-century
pp867), in a variety of races. Spuistraat 6; dm from 18, d/tr with private bathroom 80/100; named after Dutch painters, are simply fur- dining room with chandeliers, grand piano
Bock Beer Festival (www.beursvanberlage.nl) Three- i) With friendly management, an inviting, nished but all have canal views and private and garden views? Or perhaps the plush,
day fest celebrating German bock beer in the Beurs van respectful vibe and funky, Middle Eastern facilities. The staff are friendly. Note that credit burgundy-hued bar? The small but inviting
Berlage building. style dcor, Aivengo is a winner. Party animals cards are not accepted. guest rooms are filled with antiques.
take very careful note: theres a 4am curfew. t Hotel (Map pp88-9; %422 27 41; www.thotel
November Flying Pig Downtown Hostel (Map pp88-9; %420 TOP END .nl; Leliegracht 18; d from 145) Quiet, familiar and
Cannabis Cup (last half of the month; www.hightimes 68 22; www.flyingpig.nl; Nieuwendijk 100; dm from 14; i) Hotel de lEurope (Map pp92-3; %531 17 77; www understated, t Hotel is where Dutch modern
.com) Marijuana festival hosted by High Times magazine, Multitudinous dope-smoking youngsters .leurope.nl; Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8; s/d 295/365; ais) furnishing meets a 17th-century canal-house
with awards for best grass, biggest spliff and so on, plus flock to this relaxed backpacker haven. Its Oozing Victorian elegance, lEurope has wel- setting. Be sure to book room 7, a sun-filled
theres a hemp expo and a fashion show. got grungy charm, a throbbing lobby bar with comed the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger space with a gabled roof and large windows
Zeedijk Jazz & Blues Festival (Last weekend of the pool table, cheap booze, DJs and a cushion- with its glam chandelier and cavernous mar- overlooking the canal.
month; www.zeedijk.nl/jazzfestival-eng.html) Amster- lined basement dubbed the Happy Room. ble lobby. The rooms are gloriously large and
dams biggest jazz festival sees hundreds of jazz and blues Other options: theres more marble in the bathrooms. The TOP END
acts out on the street and in the pubs along the Zeedijk, all Hotel Groenendael (Map pp88-9; %624 48 22; www attached Excelsior Restaurant, chi-chi gym and Seven One Seven (Map pp92-3; %427 07 17; www
free of charge. .hotelgroenendael.com; Nieuwendijk 15; s/d/tr with shared swimming pool are equally impressive. .717hotel.nl; Prinsengracht 717; d from 405; ai )
bathroom 35/50/75) A bargain, although as bare bones as Amsterdams most wonderful hotel. Its eight
SLEEPING they come. Central location, friendly owners. Jordaan & Western Islands hyper-plush, deliciously appointed rooms
Amsterdam can get crazy with visitors at Stadsdoelen Youth Hostel (Map pp92-3; %624 68 BUDGET come with that rare Dutch treat: space. Check
any time of year, so book well ahead. Its 32; www.stayokay.com; Kloveniersburgwal 97; dm from Hotel Van Onna (Map p91; %626 58 01; Bloemgracht into the splashy Picasso suite, with its soaring
worth paying a bit extra for something cen- 24, d 61; ni) Eleven nonsmoking, ultra-clean 102-108; r per person 45; n) The rooms wont win ceiling, commodious furniture, gorgeous con-
tral so you can enjoy the nightlife without dorms, each with up to 17 beds plus free lockers. Single- any design awards, but they do have private temporary and antique dcor, and a bathroom
resorting to night buses or taxis. Many vis- sex and co-ed dorms and bathrooms, big TV room, bar facilities and breakfast is included. Plus youre as big as some European principalities.
itors overlook the Museum Quarter and the with pool table, laundry. in a gorgeous section of the Jordaan, within Dylan (Map p91; %530 20 10; www.dylanamsterdam
Vondelpark area, which both offer quality earshot of the Westerkerk bells (rooms out .com; Keizersgracht 384; s/d from 255/405) The Dylan is
digs only a short walk from the action at MIDRANGE the back are quieter). The attic room, with a true temple of style, from the 17th-century
Leidseplein. Budget Hotel Clemens (Map p91; %624 60 89; www its old wooden roof beams, has panoramic canal houses courtyard entrance, to the staff,
Amsterdam has no shortage of luxury .clemenshotel.com; Raadhuisstraat 39; s 55, d 70-110, tr views over the Jordaan. No phone, TV or to the restaurant, to the black-and-white lobby.
accommodation, from intimate boutique 125-150; i) The Clemens is a friendly place credit cards. The 41 sophisticated, individually decorated
hotels to towering modern complexes. with eight warm, cosy rooms, some done up rooms might have Japanese or Indonesian
Historic hotels in the old centre have been in creams and yellows, some in gold and red. Western Canal Belt motifs; fluffy towels, silk pillows piled high
upgraded, but youll still come across places Deluxe rooms have antique furniture and MIDRANGE and spacious bathrooms make them serene
without air-con or a lift. Be aware that hotels marble fireplaces, and all have mini fridges. Hampshire Classic Hotel Toren (Map pp88-9; %622 and sumptuous. Plus, theres free health club
with steep staircases and without lifts are Rooms at the front, though on a noisy street, 60 33; www.toren.nl; Keizersgracht 164; s/d from 125/145; access and a lounge par excellence.
common, so reserve a room on the lower make up for it with balconies that overlook nai) A title-holder for price, room size oHotel Pulitzer (Map p91; %523 52 35; www
floors if you cant or wont climb stairs. the Westermarkt. and personal service, with communal areas .pulitzer.nl; Prinsengracht 315-331; d 250; pna) Oc-
AMSTERDAM 120 A M S T E R D A M S l e e p i n g Book accommodation
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AMSTERDAM
cupying a row of 17th-century canal houses, MIDRANGE hefty room prices and its royalty-and-rock- course). She also stages the occasional theatre
Pulitzer combines big-hotel efficiency with Seven Bridges (Map pp92-3; %623 13 29; Reguliers- star clientele. Its a favourite of the Stroll- performance in-house: they range from musi-
boutique-hotel charm. Beautifully restored gracht 31; s/d from 80/100; n) Intimate and so- ing Bones, and the lavishly decorated rooms cal concerts to squirter shows.
rooms feature mod cons galore, and theres phisticated, Seven Bridges is one of the citys overlook the Amstel, the river that (according
a cigar bar, an art gallery, garden courtyards loveliest little hotels on one of its loveliest to legend) Mick Jagger nearly fell into when TOP END
and a wonderful restaurant thats high on canals, with eight tastefully decorated rooms, Charlie Watts punched him out perilously Hilton Amsterdam (Map pp86-7; %710 60 00; www
elegance and low on pomposity. all with lush Oriental rugs and elegant an- close to a window. .hilton.com; Apollolaan 138-140; r from 202; pai)
Ambassade Hotel (Map pp88-9; %555 02 22; tiques. Breakfast, served on fine china, is de- Its an old-school hotel with lots of business
www.ambassade-hotel.nl; Herengracht 341; s/d/tr from livered to your room. Old South (Oud Zuid) guests, but the Hilton was flower-power cen-
165/185/195; n) Flick through the Ambas- Hotel Orlando (Map pp92-3; %638 69 15; www BUDGET tral in 1969 when John Lennon and Yoko Ono
sades spiffy little library and you will find .hotelorlando.nl; Prinsengracht 1099; s/d from 85/100; Stayokay Amsterdam Vondelpark (Map pp92-3; %589 staged their bed-in for world peace here (you
signed copies of works by Salman Rushdie nai) The plain entrance hall belies the 89 96; www.stayokay.com/vondelpark; Zandpad 5; dm from can rent the room). Less happily, Herman
and Umberto Eco. The antique furniture and joys that lie beyond: big canalside rooms and 24, d 74; ni) This modern, attractive 536- Brood, the infamous Dutch junkie-artist-
fixtures are traditional without being cloy- big views. Impeccably chic, boutique-style bed facility with one section occupying a musician, committed suicide in 2001 by jump-
ing, but prepare for steep, winding stairwells. rooms with custom-made cabinetry and satin tall, half-timbered 19th-century school build- ing off the Hiltons roof (he used to frequent
Breakfast costs 16. curtains. The hospitable host serves brekkie ing has the leafiest location, with views into the hotels popular bar carrying a parrot on his
in bed. the Vondelpark. head). The building fronts a grassy park with a
Southern Canal Belt Hotel de Munck (Map pp92-3; %623 62 83; www Flying Pig Uptown Hostel (Map pp92-3; %400 41 87; marina out the back. Rooms are international
BUDGET .hoteldemunck.com; Achtergracht 3; s/d/tr 75/95/145) De www.flyingpig.nl; Vossiusstraat 46; dm from 13; i) The business standard, and service is crisp and
Hotel Quentin (Map pp92-3; % 626 21 87; www Munck is a sane choice in a quiet neighbour- uptown member of the Flying Pig backpacker professional. The health club features sauna
.quentinhotels.com; Leidsekade 89; s/d from 45/60) This hood. The brilliant breakfast room looks like chain, with almost as much dope, beer and and Turkish bath.
19th-century mansion has a nice lobby and a replica of a 1960s diner with its working grungy charm as its downtown cousin (see College Hotel (Map pp86-7; %571 15 11; www.the
rooms done up in bright murals and hand- jukebox. The 16 spacious, renovated rooms p118). steingroup.com/college; Roelof Hartstraat 1; s/d from 175/200;
made furniture, although singles tend to be feature comfy contemporary furnishings, and ai) Originally a 19th-century school, this
small and functional. If youre lucky you might the flower-filled courtyard is as welcoming MIDRANGE place has now been updated with tremen-
get a balcony and a canal view. as the hosts. Owl Hotel (Map pp92-3; %618 94 84; www.owl-hotel dous style: flat-screen TVs, silk throw pillows,
Hotel Prinsenhof (Map pp92-3; %623 17 72; www Hotel Nicolaas Witsen (Map pp92-3; %623 61 43; .nl; Roemer Visscherstraat 1; s 75-92, d 98-125; i) Some cordless phones, the occasional stained-glass
.hotelprinsenhof.com; Prinsengracht 810; s/d 45/65, d with www.hotelnicolaaswitsen.nl; Nicolaas Witsenstraat 4; s/d from guests love this place so much that they send window and exposed beams on the top floor.
shower 85) Dating from the 17th century, the 65/89; i) Style aficionados may squirm at the in owl figurines from all over the world. Staff Continental breakfast costs 17.50.
Prinsenhof is wonderfully preserved, with bland pastel dcor but theres no quibbling are warm and welcoming, and the dapper,
spacious rooms. The attic quarters (slanted over the amenities. All 29 rooms are neat and bright and quiet rooms come with lots of De Pijp
ceiling and unbeatable canal views) are come with phone, safe and in some cases even facilities (hairdryers, laptop plug-ins, etc). TOP END
booked way in advance by honeymooners. baths. In summer ask for the basement room The buffet breakfast (included in the price) is Hotel Okura (Map pp86-7; %678 71 11; www.okura.nl;
The breakfast policy promises that no ones thats as cool as air-con. Theres a lift too. served in a serene, light-filled room overlook- Ferdinand Bolstraat 333; s/d from 240/275; nais)
allowed to leave until he or she is completely Other options: ing a gorgeous garden. This is the business travellers choice, with
satiated. Hotel de Admiraal (Map pp92-3; %626 21 50; Hotel de Filosoof (Map pp86-7; %683 30 13; www close proximity to the RAI exhibition centre,
Hotel Pax (Map pp88-9; %624 97 35; Raadhuisstraat [email protected]; Herengracht 563; d with .hotelfilosoof.nl; Anna van den Vondelstraat 6; s/d 111/125) private in-room fax lines, wi-fi for comput-
37; s/d from 25/35, d with private facilities from 55) The shared/private facilities 70/98) In the thick of the action This stately hotel near leafy Vondelpark is ers, and professional staff. Plus, its got the
Pax, in hotel-lined Raadhuisstraat, is run by near Rembrandtplein, with beautiful canal views. Breakfast owned by two sisters and has 38 rooms themed Netherlandss largest hotel pool, an amazing
two friendly brothers. All eight rooms have costs 5. in honour of such philosophers as Aristotle, health club, several fine restaurants (includ-
a TV and each is individually decorated. The City Hotel (Map pp92-3; %627 23 23; www.city Wittgenstein and Spinoza. The furniture can ing two with Michelin stars Yamazato and
larger rooms face the busy street with noisy -hotel.nl; Utrechtsestraat 2; d with shared/private facili- be lush or Zen minimalist, depending on the Ciel Bleu) and wonderfully panoramic views
trams, so bring some earplugs. Rates dont ties 70/90; i) Above the Old Bell pub, practically on rooms honoree. of Amsterdam.
include breakfast. Rembrandtplein. Clean, neat, well run. Xavieras Happy House (Map pp86-7; %673 39 34;
Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Map pp92-3; %622 Hotel Agora (Map pp92-3; %627 22 00; www www.xavierahollander.com/sleeper; Stadionweg 17; d from Plantage & Oosterpark
06 87; www.hans-brinker.com; Kerkstraat 136; dm from 21; .hotelagora.nl; Singel 462; s & d/tr/q from 103/158/175; 120; i) This small B&B is run by the one BUDGET
tw/tr/q per person 35/30/24; i) Theres a jacked i) Fifteen minutes walk from everything, with smallish and only Xaviera Hollander, author of The Hotel Rembrandt (Map p95; %627 27 14; www.hotel
up Animal House feel to the Brinker, with its rooms, up-to-date bathrooms and a cheerful garden. Happy Hooker (p45). The two house rooms rembrandt.nl; Plantage Middenlaan 17; s 73, d from 85; i)
bouncy bar and disco. Its website takes the art arent overly large, but theyre colourful and The hallways could stand a touch-up, but the
of self-mockery to uniquely Dutch extremes, TOP END cosy (one has a shared bathroom), while the Rembrandt shines where it matters. The spot-
offering Brinker Wallpaper: Your home will Amstel Intercontinental Hotel (Map pp86-7; %622 60 garden chalet is a fairly simple affair and quite less rooms have TV, phone and coffee maker,
soon have the unmistakable feeling of the 60; www.amsterdam.intercontinental.com; Professor Tulpplein secluded. Xaviera herself is often on hand and some have hardwood floors and bathtubs.
Hans Brinker Budget Hotel, it says, without 1; r from 575; ais) Everything about this for a chat and a cup of tea, and can organise The wood-panelled breakfast room features
the tangy smell, strange gargling noises, and five-star monument is simply spectacular, all manner of tours and activities in the city, chandeliers and 17th-century paintings on
the moaning. Or is that the Black Tulip? from its magnificent colonnaded lobby to its regardless of your desires (within reason of linen-covered walls.
AMSTERDAM 122 A M S T E R D A M E a t i n g Book accommodation
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AMSTERDAM
Hotel Hortus (Map p95; %625 99 96; www.hotel under 12/car/caravan 4.75/2.25/4.25/6.25; hmid-Mar with chicken or polenta souffl and you Jordaan & Western Islands
hortus.com; Plantage Parklaan 8; dm 25, s/d 35/50) Facing Dec) Large park/recreation area with caf, restaurant, bar, may even find a sprig of mint in your carafe Bordewijk (Map pp88-9; %624 38 99; Noordermarkt 7;
the Botanical Garden, this comfy 20-room barbecues, supermarket, lake and beach. Take metro 53 of water. Desserts are wonderful, including mains 24-29, set menus 37-52; hdinner Tue-Sun) Lo-
hotel has small doubles with or without show- from Centraal to Gaasperplas, south of town. the chocolate mousse. cals love Bordewijk: they dont come for the
ers (luck of the draw). The lounge will be Camping Vliegenbos (Map pp86-7; %636 88 55; Nam Kee (Map pp88-9; %624 34 70; www.namkee sparse interior, but for the super French/Ital-
chock-full of young, happy stoners transfixed www.vliegenbos.com; Meeuwenlaan 138; camp sites .net; Zeedijk 113-116; mains 6-16.50; hlunch & dinner) It ian cooking. Apparently lambs testicles were
by the big-screen TV. Large rooms sleep up per person 7.60; hApr-Sep) Well-equipped camping wont win any design awards, but Nam Kee is once on the menu, but less adventurous cus-
to eight people. ground just a few minutes bus ride from the city centre, always the most popular Chinese spot in town. tomers neednt worry, and vegetarians are
with shop, laundry, hot showers, cabins and 25 hectares Theres a new, fancier location at Geldersekade willingly catered for.
MIDRANGE of woodland. From Centraal Station take bus 32 or 36 to 117 (Map pp889). Local (Map p91; %423 40 39; Westerstraat 136; mains
Hotel Arena (Map pp86-7; % 850 24 00; www.hotel Zamenhofstraat/Merelstraat. Supper Club (Map pp88-9; %638 05 13; www 7-19.50; hdinner) Contemporary and cool, with
arena.nl; s Gravesandestraat 51; d/tr from 100/165; i) .supperclub.nl; Jonge Roelensteeg 21; 5-course menu 65; long, tall tables stretching its entire length; you
The Arena, next to lush Oosterpark, has been EATING hdinner) Enter the theatrical, all-white room, wont be alone. The international mains are
a chapel, an orphanage and a backpackers Amsterdams culinary scene has hundreds of snuggle up on enormous mattresses and snack grilled on skewers, everything from yakitori
hostel. Now its a chic 121-room hotel with a restaurants and eetcafs (pubs serving meals) on platters of contemporary Dutch victuals to beef stroganoff (yes, really), all served with
stylish restaurant, a caf and a well-regarded catering to all tastes. as DJs spin house music, then head upstairs potatoes, salad and appropriate sauces.
nightclub, To Night (p129). Rooms are an Utrechtsestraat is a terrific all-rounder, later to dance. Well, its a concept, even if the Nomads (Map p91; %344 64 01; www.restaurant
ode to minimalism, while the large, split-level while Haarlemmerstraat has some of the latest food and service are so-so. They also do this nomads.nl; Rozengracht 133; set menu 45; hdinner Tue-
doubles are sun drenched. Tip: sections A, B, hot spots. Try Leidseplein for quantity more whole thing on a boat trip on the IJ: the Sup- Sun) Its like a boudoir: eat your Middle Eastern
E and F tend to be quieter. than quality. West of Albert Cuypstraat is per Club Cruise leaves from dock 14 behind food while taking it easy on stuffed cushions
Hotel Fantasia (Map p95; %623 82 59; www.fantasia multicultural heaven with Cambodian, Kurd- Centraal Station. in a hall festooned with Moroccan curtains
-hotel.com; Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16; s/d 67/86; i) This ish and Surinamese cuisines and more. and oversized chandeliers. Belly dancers and
ones perfect for moo-ching around. Pull the QUICK EATS DJs give it some late in the evening.
udder one. No, really the owner grew up on Medieval Centre Eat Mode (Map pp88-9; %330 08 06; www Rakang Thai (Map p91; %627 50 12; Elandsgracht 29;
a farm and has parlayed that into a workable Blauw aan de Wal (Map pp88-9; %330 22 57; Oudezijds .eatmode.nl; Zeedijk 107; mains 4.50-12; hlunch & din- mains 17-21; hdinner) Kooky dcor chairs
obsession: this bovine-themed 18th-century Achterburgwal 99; mains 24-27; hdinner) Tucked away ner) Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and Japanese with casual wrapped in straitjackets, bright art on the
house. Bucolic prints and cow motifs gleefully in a long, often graffiti-covered alley in the ambience. Good vegetarian selection plus wi-fi. walls, neckties in the tables blends with a
decorate the 19 rooms and breakfast area, com- middle of the Red Light District, this charm- Green Planet (Map pp88-9; %625 82 80; www relaxed atmosphere and super food. Try the
plementing the peaceful canalside location. ing 17th-century herb warehouse (complete .greenplanet.nl; Spuistraat 122; sandwiches & salads 6-10, crunchy, spicy duck salad.
with exposed brick and steel weights) is the mains 10-16.50; hdinner Tue-Sat) Veggie eatery selling
Eastern Islands setting for contemporary French- and Italian- burgers, crostini, wraps, fresh pastries, biscuits and home- QUICK EATS
MIDRANGE inspired cooking. Service is friendly and made cakes takeaway comes in biodegradable packaging. Caf Reibach (Map p91; %626 77 08; Brouwersgracht
Lloyd Hotel (Map pp86-7; %561 36 36; www.lloydhotel knowledgeable. In summer, grab a table in the Krua Thai (Map pp92-3; %622 95 33; Staalstraat 22; 139; mains 2.80-12.50; hbreakfast & lunch) Magnifi-
.com; Oostelijke Handelskade 34; d 80-300; i) In 1921 leafy courtyard that backs onto a monastery. mains 6.75-25; hdinner Tue-Sun) Top-shelf (and popu- cent, fresh-made breakfasts replete with Dutch cheese,
this building was a hotel for migrants, and Lucius (Map pp88-9; %624 18 31; Spuistraat 247; mains lar) soups, duck or shrimp curries, and noodle dishes. pt, smoked salmon, eggs, coffee and fresh juice.
many of the original fixtures (tiles, cabin- 17.50-28, set menus 35; hdinner) Simple, delicious Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs (Map pp88-9; %626 Duende (Map pp88-9; %420 66 92; Lindengracht 62;
etry etc) still exist, now combined with tri- and simply delicious, this seafood place is 56 03; Grimburgwal 2; mains 4-10; hlunch & dinner) tapas 3-10; hdinner) Tapas; flamenco on Saturday.
umphs of more contemporary Dutch design. known for fresh ingredients and for not over- Climb some of Amsterdams steepest stairs for flavour-
This combination hotel, cultural centre and doing the sauce and spice. The interior is all some, filling pancakes and vintage teapots hanging from Western Canal Belt
local gathering place boasts rooms that span fish tanks and tiles, and service is thorough the ceiling. o Christophe (Map p91; % 625 08 07; www
one-star (facilities down the hall) to five-star and efficient. Puccini (Map pp92-3; %626 54 74; www.puccini.nl; .christophe.nl; Leliegracht 46; mains 31-53; hdinner Tue-
(plush and huge). dVijff Vlieghen (Map pp88-9; %530 40 60; www Staalstraat 21; mains 5.30-12.50; hlunch & dinner Sat) Jean Christophes subtly swanky French
Amstel Botel (Map p95; %626 42 47; www.amstel .thefiveflies.com; Spuistraat 294-302; mains 20-28; hdin- Tue-Sun) Italian panini rolls and salads with sun-dried restaurant lives up to its two Michelin stars
botel.com; Oosterdokskade 2-4; s & d with land/water view ner) The second you set foot in this dining ingredients; the handmade chocolate and cake shop next with its lobster dishes, duck-liver terrine and
87/92, tr with land/water view 117/122; i) This complex of five 17th-century canal houses, door induces rapture. unusual elegance. The attentive service is also
floating hotel is packed with dazed, Europe- you know youre in for a treat. Ask to be Ralphs Asian Wonderfood (Map pp88-9; %427 62 a cut above.
in-four-days bus groups and packs of Brit seated in the Rembrandt Room (with four 62; Haarlemmerstraat 32; dishes 6-7; hlunch & dinner) Zuid Zeeland (Map pp92-3; %624 31 54; Herengracht
boys/girls celebrating bucks or hens nights. original etchings) and join splurging business Excellent, fresh Asian-fusion menu. 413; mains 23-26; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner nightly) Popu-
The sterile rooms have TV, phone and a tiny groups being treated to silver service and Vlaams Friteshuis (Map pp92-3; Voetboogstraat 31; lar with artists and general Bohemian types,
bathroom. Breakfast is 10. contemporary Dutch dishes. fries 2.50) Amsterdams best-loved fries joint. Remember Zuid Zeeland gets props for French-inter-
Hemelse Modder (Heavenly Mud; Map pp88-9; %624 the words of Vincent Vega, from Pulp Fiction: You know national cuisine. We have it on very good
Outer Districts 32 03; Oude Waal 9; mains 16, set meals from 26; hdin- what they put on French fries in Holland? Mayonnaise. And authority that to finish with the port-infused
BUDGET ner) A little hard to locate, but worth it. Ex- I dont mean a little bit on the side they fucken drown Stilton is divine.
Gaaspercamping (%696 73 26; www.gaaspercamping traordinary care goes into the contemporary em in it. Its true, but Vlaams also offers an arsenal of De Belhamel (Map pp88-9; %622 10 95; Brouwersgracht
.nl; Loosdrechtdreef 7, Gaasperdam; camp sites per adult/ Dutch dishes you might find pot-au-feu alternatives, including green peppercorn. 60; mains 18-21; hdinner) Belhamels gorgeous Art
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Nouveau interior is a fitting backdrop for ex- lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Two Michelin stars
cellent French- and Italian-inspired dishes such and a formal dining room with graciously AN INSIDERS GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM, PART 3: SEAN CONDON Simon Sellars
as silky roast beef. This is a quality spot for a spaced tables and views over the Amstel make Australian Sean Condon is the author of the bittersweet non-fiction novel My Dam Life, about his
romantic evening, with its canalside tables. La Rive a top-notch option. The French menu time in Amsterdam and his bemused efforts to adapt to the rhythms of Dutch life (the book was
Grekas (Map pp88-9; %620 35 90; Singel 311; mains changes frequently, but standards include saddled with the Orwellian epithet Down and Out In Amsterdam by one reviewer). I prodded
8-10; hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun) One of the citys turbot and truffle in potato pasta, and a starter Sean to give me his appraisal of this eccentric town.
best-loved Greek restaurants, with high-qual- of caviar. Do you have a favourite part of Amsterdam? Anywhere to avoid?
ity, generous portions of Greek home cook- Tempo Doeloe (The Old Days; Map pp92-3; %625 My favourite is the Jordaan, because most of my friends live there. I dislike the main red light
ing: moussaka, roasted artichokes, chicken 67 18; www.tempodoeloerestaurant.nl; Utrechtsestraat 75; area behind Warmoesstraat, because its usually full of loutish drunken tourists who spoil the
in lemon sauce. mains 18-22; hdinner) Ring a bell to gain entry otherwise lovely, rosy ambience.
De Bolhoed (Map p91; %626 18 03; Prinsengracht to this Indonesian restaurant, where the spice Pick an Amsterdam clich now debunk it.
60-62; dishes lunch 3.50-12, dinner 9-15; hlunch & din- levels range from mild to very hot. Yet all the There are far fewer Dutch doors than youd think.
ner) Amsterdams best-known vegetarian res- subtle flavours remain intact extraordinary. Describe your favourite, and least favourite, Amsterdam experience.
taurant has a prime canalside location. The It does a top-notch version of the classic ri- My favourite is riding anywhere, any time, in any weather on a bike. My least favourite is
food is fresh, organic and often Mexican- and jsttafel (rice table; see p60). Reservations are encountering groups of the aforementioned louts.
Italian-inspired: pancakes, salads, burritos, essential. Speaking of bikes, can there be anything funnier than a bicyclist giving a ride to a blow-
homemade breads, biological wines, organic Segugio (Map pp92-3; %330 15 03; Utrechtsestraat up sex doll?
beers and cakes. 96; pastas 15-17, mains 23-27; hdinner Mon-Sat) This Yes. Those big, wooden trays on the front of bikes, full of infants, that teachers use to transport
Koh-I-Noor (Map p91; %623 31 33; Westermarkt 29; fashionably minimalist storefront with two kids from one place to another. Hilarious.
mains 10-19; hdinner) The interior is gaudy but levels of seating is known for risotto and What book set in Amsterdam would you recommend for newcomers?
the Indian food is consistently good, running high-quality ingredients combined with a There are few that I know of. Theres Amsterdam, an excellent and lively history of the city by
the gamut from mild to palate-searing for cur- sure hand. Book ahead this is one Italian Geert Mak. Maybe Ian McEwans Amsterdam, but I havent read it. Some of the scenes early on
ries, tandoori and biryani dishes. joint thats always busy. in Ian Flemings Diamonds Are Forever are set in Amsterdam, and theyre cool.
Iguazu (Map pp92-3; %420 39 10; Prinsengracht 703; Youre a writer you must have a favourite Amsterdam bar.
QUICK EATS mains 14-35; hlunch & dinner) This Brazilian-Ar- Without doubt my favourite is Proeflokaal Fockink (p128), a tiny jenever bar founded in the
Buffet van Odette & Yvette (Map pp88-9; %423 60 gentinean steakhouse serves cuts so tender 17th century. Its congenial and a superb place to meet strangers. Every day I miss it and every
34; Herengracht 309; mains 3-12; hbreakfast Mon- they practically dissolve in your mouth, and day my liver thanks me that its now on the other side of the world.
Sat, lunch daily) Creative, organic soups, sandwiches, everything tastes great with chimichurri (a Where do you like to eat in Amsterdam?
pastas and quiches and gorgeous canal views. spicy sauce), which sits in a small jar on every My favourite Amsterdam restaurant is De Reddende Engel, but its in Antwerp, which should
Foodism (Map pp88-9; %427 51 03; www.foodism table. Relax on the canal terrace with your give you some idea of the culinary scene in Amsterdam. There is one place, on Leliegracht, called
.nl; Oude Leliestraat 8; mains 3-10; hlunch & dinner) feijoada (a stew of rice, beans and various Christophe (p123) its excellent, but boy youll pay for it. Also the Gouden Real on Prinseneiland
All-day breakfasts, healthy filled sandwiches and salads, meats) and caipirinhas (Brazils famous cock- used to be good and it has a great setting, too.
wild and wicked pasta dishes. tail, made with cachaa sugarcane brandy Do you have a favourite local slang or swear word?
Nielsen (Map p91; %330 60 06; Berenstraat 19; dishes lime, sugar and ice). Jammer (shame).
4-10, hbreakfast & lunch) Sunny caf with a tasty Tujuh Maret (Map pp92-3; %427 98 65; Utrechtsestraat Care to reveal Amsterdams best-kept secret?
set breakfast: eggs, toast, fruit, juice and coffee (8). For 73; mains 14-20; hlunch Mon-Sat, dinner nightly) Well, No.
lunch, a large variety of salads and sandwiches are served. well, heres a surprise: Tujuh Maret, next door What annoys you the most about Amsterdam?
Pancake Bakery (Map pp88-9; %625 13 33; Prinsen- to Tempo Doeloe, serves Indonesian food The appalling and yet very expensive food served by the rudest wait staff in Europe.
gracht 191; mains 5-12; hlunch & dinner) Delicious, filling thats just as good but attitude-free. Grab a How did living in Amsterdam change you?
Dutch pancakes sweet (including chocolate) and savoury wicker chair and tuck into spicy Sulawesi-style It introduced me to the world beyond Australia, and now that Im back here, I kind of wish
(including the Egyptian, topped with lamb, sweet peppers dishes such as dried, fried beef or chicken in it hadnt.
and garlic sauce). Also omelettes, soups and desserts. red pepper sauce. Rijsttafel is laid out accord- Describe My Dam Life for someone who hasnt read it.
Small World Catering (Map pp88-9; %420 27 74; ing to spice intensity. Unfortunate cover, great book. A love story about both my wife, Sally, and Amsterdam.
Binnen Oranjestraat 14; sandwiches 5.45-7.50, mains Pasta e Basta (Map pp92-3; %422 22 26; Nieuwe
4-6; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch & din- Spiegelstraat 8; set meals 35; hdinner) An Italian
ner Sun) Gorgeous prepared vegetables and meat dishes, restaurant thats popular with large groups, Parisian-style meat establishment at No 43, (try the garlic-fried shrimps and grilled sar-
a variety of quiches and sandwiches, including fresh tuna, thanks to its singing waiters, who perform although both menus are offered in either. dines).
tapenade and artichoke hearts. opera, standards and more. Regulars swear by Bouillabaisse and spare ribs are the respective
t Kuyltje (Map pp88-9; %620 10 45; Gasthuismolen- the antipasto buffet and grilled meats. Reserve house specialities. QUICK EATS
steeg 9; sandwiches 1.75-3.10; hbreakfast & lunch) well in advance. Pata Negra (Map pp92-3; %422 62 50; Utrechtsestraat Maoz (Map pp92-3; %420 74 35; www.maozveg
Little sandwich shop with good pastrami. Sluizer (Map pp92-3; %622 63 76; Utrechtsestraat 142; tapas 4-16; hlunch & dinner) This Spanish ea- .com; Muntplein 1; felafel 3.50) Offers felafel pita-bread
43-45;mains 14-25; hdinner) This lively Amster- tery is an eyeful of fun, with its alluringly sandwiches with bottomless salad toppings and sauces.
Southern Canal Belt dam institution, with a super-romantic, en- tiled exterior and an equally exuberant crowd Its common for impecunious Dutch students to linger here
La Rive (Map pp86-7; %622 60 60; Amstel Intercontinental closed terrace, comprises two restaurants: inside. Weekends are quite a scene with bois- for hours on end (possibly days, weeks, months) refilling
Hotel, Professor Tulpplein 1; mains 38-58; hbreakfast daily, a renowned house of fish at No 45 and a terous groups sharing sangria and tapas plates their pita bread. Also at Centraal Station, Leidsestraat 85,
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Ferdinand Bolstraat 67, Eerste van der Helststraat 43 and rijsttafel, plus the nasi rames special (9) h10am-6pm) Very popular apple pies, pecan pies, and est pipes in Amsterdam (most places have
Oude Brugsteeg. a heaped plate of roasted meats, on skewers or tarts with lush ingredients such as truffles and marzipan vats in a cellar or side room with long hoses
M Caf (Map pp92-3; %520 78 48; Keizersgracht 455; in spicy stews, with stir-fried or pickled veg- with strawberry liqueur. Savouries include the mozzarella- to the bar) our Man in the Dam says you
mains 4-12; hbreakfast & lunch) Amazing views are etables, and a deep-fried hard-boiled egg. pesto quiche. can taste the difference.
the top draw high above the Keizersgracht in the top-floor Turkiye (Map pp92-3; Ferdinand Bolstraat 48; mains Caf de Jaren (Map pp92-3; %625 57 71; Nieuwe Doe-
gallery of the ritzy Metz & Co department store. De Pijp 6.50-15.50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Super Turkish lenstraat 20) Watch the Amstel float by from the
Pasta di Mamma (Map pp92-3; %664 83 14; Pieter Bazar Amsterdam (Map pp92-3; %675 05 44; www food: grilled mains and small plates such as stuffed toma- waterside terrace and balcony of this soaring,
Cornelisz Hooftstraat 52; sandwiches 3-5; hbreakfast, .bazaramsterdam.nl; Albert Cuypstraat 182; mains 8-14; toes and Turkish pizza (1 to 3.50). Eat in or take away. bright grand caf. The great reading table has
lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch & dinner Sun) Great for pic- hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Like its Rotterdam Zen (Map pp92-3; %627 06 07; Frans Halsstraat 38; loads of foreign publications for whiling away
nic supplies for Vondelpark. Dozens of antipasti, gorgeous counterpart (p215), Bazar Amsterdam is a mains 7-17; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Delicious Japa- hours over beers or the delectable light lunch
salads and more substantial plates. genuine high-flyer. In a glorious former Dutch nese food. Try the sushi or donburi (beef, chicken or salmon of smoked-salmon rolls.
Uliveto (Map pp92-3; %423 00 99; Weteringschans Reformed Church, the light-filled, Middle East- on rice). Takeaway available. Caf Cuba (Map pp88-9; %627 4919; Nieuwmarkt 3)
118; mains 5-8; hbreakfast & lunch) Mouth-watering ernstyle dcor and tangy, tantalising North This place maintains fidelity to Fidel, Che and
fresh pastas, salads and creamy desserts. Buy takeaway or African cuisine mixed grills, kebabs, felafels, Eastern Islands 50s Cuba, with low lighting, indoor palms,
dine at the large marble table under designer milk urns. pitas, tabouli, Turkish pizza sees to that. 11 (Map pp86-7; %625 59 99; Oosterdokskade 3-5; lunch faux faded elegance, rum posters, and cane
Wagamama (Map pp92-3; %528 77 78; Max Euwe- Mamouche (Map pp92-3; %673 63 61; Quellijnstraat mains 4-8.50, 4-course menu 30; hlunch & dinner) Its chairs and tables. Try Papa Hemingways fa-
plein 10; mains 8-13; hlunch & dinner) Chicken ramen, 104; mains 14.50-22; hdinner Tue-Sun) Sexy is a got the best views, on the top floor of the vourite cocktail, the caipirinha, and the ubiq-
Japanese curries and fried noodles or rice. word that tends to get bandied about when former post office tower. For lunch, tuck into uitous mojito. The outdoor seating is perched
people talk about Mamouche. The case for: sandwiches, pastas and focaccias, or try the right on the Nieuwmarkt.
Old South (Oud Zuid) the seriously good modern Moroccan food changing four-course dinner menu. At night, Absinthe (Map pp88-9; %320 6780; www.absinthe
Bark (Map pp92-3; %675 02 10; Van Baerlestraat 120; mains think couscous, lamb and fish and the seri- 11 is variously a cultural centre with lectures .nl; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171) Devoted to the
14.50-22; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner nightly) Near the ous minimalism of the dcor, all exposed on art and the like and a night club. brain-lesioning liquor popularly reputed
Concertgebouw, Bark serves seafood thats flooring, mottled walls and beamed ceilings. A Tavola (Map p95; h625 49 94; Kadijksplein 9; mains to have been the cause of Van Goghs self-
suitably genteel and old-school. For starters, Reservations are essential. 12-21; hdinner) This authentic Italian restau- mutilation. Theres multi-ethnic dcor with
choose from a long shellfish menu or try the Puyck (Map pp86-7; %676 76 77; Ceintuurbaan 147; set rant near the Scheepvaartmuseum serves rather awkward seating arrangements, and
blinis of smoked oilfish. For mains, the grilled menus from 38.50; hdinner Mon-Sat) This unpreten- mouth-wateringly tender meats and superb the staff can teach you all about their signature
tuna steak with bacon and balsamic sauce is tious place offers imaginative, sophisticated pastas that cry out for a selection from its drink. Youll leave with your ears intact its
recommended. Some dishes can be a little international cooking such as baby lobster excellent wine list. Reservations are a must. not as potent as in the old days.
salty, so let them know if youre averse. with lettuce, duck breast in Chinese five spice, Sea Palace (Map p95; %626 47 77; Oosterdokskade 8; Luxembourg (Map pp92-3; %620 62 64) This caf
Mansion (Map pp92-3; %616 66 64; Hobbemastraat 2; or a white winepoached pear, all served with mains 9.60-36, yum-cha courses 13.50-15; hlunch & din- occupies the best people-watching spot on
mains 12-21; hdinner Tue-Sun) Theres no sign out flair. And how about that Thai curry sorbet ner) The three floors at this floating restaurant the Spui. Our advice: grab a newspaper from
the front, just black lacquered doors. Inside, your mind is boggling, right? are always busy with Chinese and non-Chinese, the reading table, nab a terrace seat in the sun
the gauzy purple curtains and the chandeliers Nieuw Albina (Map pp92-3; %379 02 23; Albert Cuyp- who come not just for great views of the city and order the Royale snack platter (bread,
provide the backdrop to Asian fusion speciali- straat 49; mains 4.50-11.50; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) but also for the super yum cha. cured meats, Dutch cheese and deep-fried
ties such as soft-shell crab with chilli-garlic Nieuw Albinas Surinamese food is more pol- croquettes). Inside are parquet floors, a marble
marinade and lobster in XO sauce. Reserva- ished than that at Albert Cuyp 67 (see below), DRINKING bar and an Art Deco stained-glass skylight.
tions are essential. but the flavours are just as bold. The moksi meti Medieval Centre De Drie Fleschjes (Map pp88-9; %624 84 43; Gravenstraat
Lalibela (Map pp86-7; %683 83 32; Eerste Helmersstraat (roast mixed meats over rice) is incredible. Lime (Map pp88-9; %639 30 20; Zeedjik 104) Lime is 18) Behind the Nieuwe Kerk, the distiller Bootzs
249; mains 8-12.50; hdinner) This was the Nether- cool and hip but friendly and laid-back; you tasting room dates from 1650. It specialises in
lands first Ethiopian restaurant, and its still QUICK EATS wont get the stink-eye in here. The dcor liqueurs (although you can also get jenevers)
a good un. Drink Ethiopian beer from a half- Albert Cuyp 67 (Map pp92-3; %671 13 96; Albert comes on like a Stereolab album cover all the macaroon one is a treat. Check out the col-
gourd and eat your stews, egg and vegetable Cuypstraat 67; mains 3-9; hlunch & dinner) Suri- dots and loops and browns and oranges and lection of kalkoentjes, small bottles with hand-
dishes with enjara, a spongy pancake, instead namese food, and colossal portions of roti kip (chicken the cocktails are superb. painted portraits of former mayors.
of utensils. The musics unique, too. curry, flaky roti bread, potatoes, egg and cabbage). Hoppe (Map pp92-3; %420 44 20; Spuistraat 18-20) Suite (Map pp88-9; %344 64 06; www.suite.nu; Sint
Sama Sebo (Map pp92-3; %662 81 46; www Bagels & Beans (Map pp92-3; www.bagelsbeans.nl; This gritty brown caf has been luring drink- Nicolaasstraat 43) From the crew behind Supper
.samasebo.com; Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat 27; rijsttafel per Ferdinand Bolstraat 70; bagels from 2.95) Tasty bagels, ers for more than 300 years. It has one of Club, this sedate rest-o-bar is a rambling
person 27, lunch specials per person 14.50; hlunch & good coffee, wi-fi access. Also at Keizersgracht 504, Amsterdams highest beer turnovers some suite of rooms: a salon, a lounge room, and a
dinner Mon-Sat) Another reliable old-timer, this Haarlemmerdijk 122, Van Baerlestraat 40, Kinkerstraat 110, achievement in a city of hops freaks. In sum- chilled space with embroidered sofas, hassocks
Indonesian restaurants got the ambience of Koningsplein 20, Waterlooplein 2, Raadhuisstraat 18 and mer the energetic crowd spews from the dark and still lifes. Dishes are eclectic small plates,
a brown caf. Its also got a wicked rijsttafel Zeilstraat 64. interior out onto the Spui. from rib eye in tomato sauce to Vietnamese
comprising 17 dishes (four to seven at lunch); Ralphs Asian Wonderfood (Map pp92-3; %670 90 Pilsener Club (Map pp88-9; %623 17 77; Begijnensteeg spring rolls and watermelon soup.
order individual plates if thats too much. 07; Eerste van der Helststraat 37; dishes 6-7; hlunch & 4) Also known as Engelse Reet (English Arse), Other options:
Waroeng Asje (Map pp92-3; %616 65 89; Jan Pieter dinner) Excellent, fresh Asian-fusion menu. this genuine brown caf from 1893 is typical Bar Bep (Map pp88-9; %626 56 49; Nieuwezijds
Heijestraat 180; mains 5-12, rijsttafel 28; hlunch Mon-Fri, Taart van mn Tante (Map pp92-3; %776 46 of the holes-in-the-wall around the Spui. Beer Voorburgwal 260) Olive-green vinyl couches and ruby-red
dinner nightly) This counter-service shop serves 00; Ferdinand Bolstraat 10; cakes per slice around 4; is served straight from the kegs via the short- walls unashamedly kitsch.
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De Bekeerde Suster (Map pp88-9; %423 01 12; Old South (Oud Zuid) dress code is jet set (sequins, suits, stilettos,
Kloveniersburgwal 6-8) The magic ingredients: brew tanks, TOP FIVE DESIGNER BARS t Blauwe Theehuis (Map pp86-7; %662 02 54; Vondel- bow ties, tiaras) and the music is lounge.
beautiful hardwood interior, and history (this 16th-century Caf Cuba (p127) park 5) This functionalist teahouse from 1936 Kooky fun.
brewery-cloister was once run by nuns). is a wonderful multilevel building serving To Night (Map pp86-7; %694 74 44; www.hotel
Lime (p127)
Proeflokaal Fockink (Map pp88-9; %639 26 95; coffee, cake and alcohol, with a great terrace arena.nl; s-Gravesandestraat 51) At the Hotel Arena
www.wynand-fockink.nl; Pijlsteeg 31) This small tast- Absinthe (p127) and balcony. (p122), each night is different everything
ing house (dating from 1679) has scores of jenevers and Suzy Wong (below) from dance classics to salsa. Its worth a visit
liqueurs some quite potent.
Suite (p127)
De Pijp just for the magnificent interior; the chapel
Bar a (Map pp92-3; %470 41 44; Marie Heinekenplein of this one-time orphanage has been given a
Jordaan & Western Islands 30-31) Maybe the hottest caf in town, this solid redo, including the toilets.
Caf Nol (Map p91; %624 53 80; Westerstraat 109) Hip- Barcelona in Amsterdam themed club has Panama (Map pp86-7; %311 86 86; www.panama
sters may cringe, but Caf Nol epitomises all kinds of people meeting for after-work brought real life to the area. Take it easy in .nl; Oostelijke Handelskade 4) This complex has a
the old-style Jordaan caf with a must-see drinks and big plates of fried snacks or din- the posh plush-red and darkwood interior, salsa-tango dance salon, a restaurant and a
kitsch interior. Its the sort of place where ner salads. or spread out onto the terrace. glam nightclub that programmes Cuban big
old-school Jordaanese still sing oompah bal- De Pieper (Map pp92-3; %626 47 75; Prinsengracht bands, Brazilian circus acts and a soulful selec-
lads with drunken abandon. Note: it doesnt 424) Considered by many to be the king of the Eastern Islands tion of DJ talent.
open until 9pm. brown cafs, De Pieper is small, unassuming Brouwerij t IJ (Map pp86-7; %622 83 25; Funenkade 7) Other options:
De Twee Zwaantjes (The Two Swans; Map p91; %625 and unmistakably old (established 1665). The This small brewery produces six regular and Escape (Map pp92-3; %622 11 11; www.escape
27 29; Prinsengracht 114) This small, authentic drink- interior features stained-glass windows, fresh several seasonal beers, which can be tasted .nl; Rembrandtplein 11) A fixture of Amsterdam nightlife
ing house is at its hilarious best on weekend sand on the floors, antique Delft beer mugs in the comfortably grungy interior or on the since 1987, its all lights and video screens, a venue for
nights, when you can join some 100 people hanging from the bar and a working Belgian terrace at the foot of the windmill. See p109 special parties.
belting out torch songs and pop standards. beer pump (dating from 1875). for more information. 11 (Map pp86-7; %625 59 99; www.ilove11.nl; Oost-
Hours are erratic, so its best to call first. Other options: erdokskade 3-5) Right by the IJ and at the top of the old
Caf t Smalle (Map p91; %623 96 17; Egelantiers- Gollem (Map pp88-9; %626 66 45; Raamsteeg 4) ENTERTAINMENT post-office building the only club in town with 360-
gracht 12) Take your boat and dock right on the Pioneer of Amsterdam beer cafs with 200 brews on offer. Amsterdam does entertainment better than degree city views.
pretty terrace you couldnt wish for a more Van Puffelen (Map p91; %624 62 70; Prinsengracht many cities four times its size: everything Exit (Map pp92-3; %625 87 88; Reguliersdwarsstraat
convivial setting in the daytime or a more 377) Popular caf-restaurant; lots of nooks and crannies; from live sex shows to cavernous clubs to 42) Multistorey nightclub with a selection of theme bars,
romantic one at night. Its equally charming big, communal. intimate bars to smoking dens to cinema to dance floors and a busy darkroom.
inside dating back to 1786 as a jenever dis- theatre and more. See p80 for some useful Melkweg (Milky Way; Map pp92-3; %531 81 81; www
tillery and tasting house, and restored during Southern Canal Belt websites, or pick up Wednesdays free Amster- .melkweg.nl; Lijnbaansgracht 234A)
the 1970s with antique porcelain beer pumps Suzy Wong (Map pp92-3; %626 67 69; Korte Leidsedwars- dam Weekly for tips and tricks galore. Paradiso (Map pp92-3; %626 45 21; www.paradiso
and leadlight windows. straat 45) This bar bustles with Dutch scenesters. .nl; Weteringschans 6) See p131.
Other options: Its like a retro-futurist Victorian drawing Nightclubs
Caf de Sluyswacht (Map pp88-9; %625 76 11; room, with red velveteen wallpaper and a Jimmy Woo (Map pp92-3; %626 3150; www.jimmywoo Coffeeshops
Jodenbreestraat 1) Stoners beware: this tiny black building bamboo garden; a photo of Andy Warhol .nl; Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18) With its uber-stylish, Siberi (Map pp88-9; %623 59 09; Brouwersgracht 111)
is built on foundations that lean dramatically. observes. Fortify yourself here before heading black-lacquered, Oriental dcor, Jimmy Woo With its lounge-room feel, canal views and
Lokaal t Loosje (Map pp88-9; %627 26 35; Nieuw- over to Jimmy Woos nightclub (opposite). is as hip as the bony projection of a femur. ultra-casual atmosphere, this is an addic-
markt 32-34) Beautiful etched-glass windows and tile Caf de Kroon (Map pp92-3; %625 20 11; www Plus it has a big focus on hip hop and extract- tive place that draws smokers of all ages for
tableaux; a venerable locale. .dekroon.nl; Rembrandtplein 17) A popular venue, ing cash from hip pockets. Its exclusive (no the friendly staff, the wicked weed and the
with its high ceilings, velvet chairs and the hippies allowed), so good luck getting in; try chance to play stoner chess with total stran-
Western Canal Belt chance to wave at all the people below on the going with some locals. gers. Queen takes Bishthat castle thing. Ah,
Het Papeneiland (Papists Island; Map pp88-9; %624 Rembrandtplein. Climb the two flights and be Sinners in Heaven (Map pp92-3; %620 1375; www forget it. I resign.
19 89; Prinsengracht 2) This popular 1642 gem of rewarded with an Art Deco tiled staircase. .sinners.nl; Wagenstraat 3-7) Along with Jimmy Woo, Barneys (Map pp88-9; %625 97 61; www.barneys
a place features Delft-blue tiles and a central Other options: jet-set, celebrity-riddled Sinners heads the .biz; Haarlemmerstraat 98 & 102) The very popular
stove. The name goes back to the Reforma- Eylders (Map pp92-3; %624 27 04; Korte Leidsedwars- A-list of Amsterdam clubs. It serves up hip Barneys, with its trippy biomechanical dcor,
tion, when there was a clandestine Catholic straat 47) Meeting place for dissident artists during WWII. hop, funk, beats and breaks, and its possibly has beloved all-day breakfasts as well as qual-
church across the canal, allegedly linked to Exhibits art. harder than Woo to get into: theres always a ity smoke (100% organic).
the other side by a once-secret tunnel thats Caf Schiller (Map pp92-3; %624 98 46; Rembrandt- guest list, and by all accounts the door bitch La Tertulia (Map p91; Prinsengracht 312) A back-
still visible from the top of the stairs. plein 26) Has a stylish, Art Deco interior with portraits of has quite the acid tongue. Try sleeping with packers favourite, this mother and daughter
Caf de Vergulde Gaper (Golden Mortar Caf; Map Dutch actors and cabaret artists. a famous footballer for best results. run coffeeshop has a greenhouse feel. You can
pp88-9; %624 89 75; Prinsenstraat 30) Decorated with Caf Amricain (Map pp92-3; %556 32 32; Leidsekade Winston International (Map pp88-9; %623 13 80; sit outside by the Van Goghinspired mu-
old chemists bottles and vintage posters, this 97) Arguably Amsterdams most stylish grand caf, located in www.winston.nl; Warmoesstraat 125) Next to the Hotel rals, play some board games or take in those
former pharmacy has amiable staff and a the American Hotel. This Art Deco monument attracts rafts of Winston (p118), it has everything from elec- Jurassic-sized crystals by the counter.
terrace that catches the sun (when it chooses celebrities to its forecourt tables just off Leidseplein tronica to spoken word to punk to graffiti Abraxas (Map pp88-9; %626 57 63; Jonge Roelensteeg
to appear). It gets busy late afternoons, with or for a tte--tte in the fashionable Nightwatch bar. art. On Sunday theres Club Vegas, where the 12) Maybe the most beautiful coffeeshop in
AMSTERDAM 130 A M S T E R D A M E n t e r t a i n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M E n t e r t a i n m e n t 131

AMSTERDAM
town. Choose from southwest USA, Mid- centrating on premieres and art-house fare from around Muziekgebouw aan t IJ (opposite). The venue cultural venue since the 1970s. Its an all-
dle Eastern and other styles of dcor spread the globe. attracts Dutch and international jazz greats in-one entertainment complex with a caf, a
over three floors. There are live DJs, extra- and offers workshops. The intimate audito- multimedia centre and top live music almost
friendly staff and Internet usage with a drink Live Music rium has huge windows giving a view over every night (everything from Afro-Celtic to
purchase. CLASSICAL & CONTEMPORARY the city, and a spiffy bar. thrash), plus nightclubs, a cinema, lounges
Grey Area (Map pp88-9; %420 43 01; www.greyarea Concertgebouw (Concert Building; Map pp92-3; %671 Casablanca (Map pp88-9; %625 56 85; www.casa- and art galleries.
.nl; Oude Leliestraat 2) Owned by a couple of laid- 83 45; www.concertgebouw.nl; Concertgebouwplein blanca-amsterdam.nl; Zeedijk 26) This jazz caf has Other options (all except Korsakoff are well
back American dudes, this tiny shop intro- 2-6; hbox office 10am-5pm) Each year, this neo- an illustrious history. Even if its glory days south of town):
duced the extra-sticky, flavourful Double Renaissance centre presents around 650 con- are over, it still books big bands four nights Amsterdam ArenA (%311 13 33; Arena Blvd 11,
Bubble Gum weed to the city. The relaxed certs attracting 840,000 visitors, making it the a week and other kinds of jazz the rest of the Bijlmermeer) Stadium rock! Seats 52,000 for mega-acts like
staff will advise on the lengthy menu. worlds busiest concert hall (with reputedly time. Wednesday to Saturday sees singing and the Stones and Superman himself, Mr Jon Bon Jovi.
Other options: the best acoustics). Classical musos consider dancing, including karaoke. Heineken Music Hall (%09006874242; Arena Blvd
Bulldog (Map pp92-3; %627 19 08; www.bulldog the Concertgebouw a very prestigious gig in- Bourbon Street Jazz & Blues Club (Map pp92-3; 590, Bijlmermeer) Draws a steady stream of international
.nl; Leidseplein 13-17) Amsterdams most famous coffee- deed, as do some rock bands with classical pre- %623 34 40; www.bourbonstreet.nl; Leidsekruisstraat 6-8) acts with its high-class acoustics and light shows.
shop chain, with five branches around town. tensions (such as King Crimson). The venue Catch blues, funk, soul and rock-and-roll per- Korsakoff (Map p91; %625 78 54; www.korsakof
Greenhouse (Map pp88-9; %627 17 39; www holds free lunch concerts on Wednesday at formances in this intimate venue filled with famsterdam.nl; Lijnbaansgracht 161) Still grungy after all
.greenhouse.org; Oudezijds Voorburgwal 191) Undersea 12.30pm between September and June. local and international performers (Stings these years, with lashings of punk, metal and Goth acts.
mosaics; psychedelic stained-glass windows; high-quality Beurs van Berlage (Map pp88-9; %627 04 66; Dam- been here, if that kind of thing floats your Pepsi Stage (%09007377478; www.pepsistage.nl;
weed and hash. rak 243) This former commodities exchange boat). There are weekly jam sessions and un- Arena Blvd 584, Bijlmermeer) This 1600-capacity hall
Homegrown Fantasy (Map pp88-9; %627 56 83; houses two small concert halls with comfort- plugged nights. stages midleague acts such as Elvis Costello and the Gipsy
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 87A) Pleasant staff, hydroponic able seats but underwhelming acoustics. Resi- Jazz Caf Alto (Map pp92-3; %626 32 49; www.jazz Kings.
weed, good tunes, 3m-long glass bongs. dent companies, the Netherlands Chamber -caf-alto.nl; Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115) A slightly
Orchestra and the Netherlands Philharmonic, older crowd of jazz lovers toe taps to seri- Theatre & Comedy
Cinemas play a varied menu of Mozart, Beethoven, ous jazz and blues at this small brown caf; Stadsschouwburg (Map pp92-3; %624 23 11; www
Cinecenter (Map pp92-3; %623 66 15; Lijnbaansgracht Bach, Mahler and Wagner. The building itself try to catch tenor saxophonist Hans Dulfer .stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl; Leidseplein 26) Amster-
236) Euro and American art-house fare; last Monday of is famous for its architecture. and band. dams most beautiful theatre was built in
the month devoted to queer films. The hip bar has white Muziekgebouw aan t IJ (Map pp86-7; %788 20 Maloe Melo (Map p91; %420 45 92; www.maloe 1894 and refurbished in the 1990s. It features
padding. 00; www.muziekgebouw.nl; Piet Heinkade 1; hbox office melo.com; Lijnbaansgracht 163) This small venue is large-scale productions, operettas, dance and
De Uitkijk (Map pp92-3; %623 74 60; www.uitkijk noon-7pm Mon-Sat) The Muziekgebouw is home home to the citys blues scene, with local and summer English-language productions and
.nl; Prinsengracht 452) Amsterdams oldest surviving to the long-standing music venues the IJs- international musicians playing everything performances. Most major festivals also seem
cinema (1913), in an old canal house, attracting cineastes breker (which changed its name to that of the from Cajun zydeco and swing to Texas blues to have a presence here.
who know their Fuller from their Fellini. new building) and the jazz house Bimhuis and rockabilly. Amsterdams Marionetten Theater (Map pp88-9;
Nederlands Filmmuseum (Map pp92-3; %589 14 (below). The outside may be curiously clad Other options: %620 80 27; www.marionet.demon.nl; Nieuwe Jonkerstraat
00; www.filmmuseum.nl; Vondelpark 3) The esteemed in glass, but the core attraction is the concert Brasil Music Bar (Map pp92-3; %626 15 00; www 8; adult/child from 12/6) In a former blacksmiths
Filmmuseums programme appeals to a broad audience: halls; the Muziekgebouw has 735 seats, simple .brasilmusicbar.com; Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 68-70) Live shop, this charming, intimate theatre features
shlock-horror, cutting-edge foreign films, docos, Bollywood maple-slat walls, a flexible stage layout and Brazilian and Caribbean music three nights a week, R&B marionettes performing elaborate produc-
musicals. great acoustics. and Brazilian DJs at other times. Hot and steamy. tions such as The Magic Flute. The skill of the
Het Ketelhuis (Map pp86-7; %684 00 90; www Other options: Cotton Club (Map pp88-9; %626 61 92; Nieuwmarkt puppeteers is something to see. Call or check
.ketelhuis.nl; Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg 8-10) In Bethaninklooster (Map pp88-9; %625 00 78; www 5) Dark, bustling brown caf with live, vibrant jazz every the website for show times.
the old gas works, an atmospheric platform for art-house .bethanienklooster.nl; Barndesteeg 6B) Small former mon- Saturday (5pm to 8pm), plus salsa on Tuesday. Nachttheater Sugar Factory (Map pp92-3; %626
films. astery near Nieuwmarkt with a glorious ballroom, perfect Meander (Map pp92-3; %625 84 30; www.caf 5006; www.sugarfactory.nl; Lijnbaansgracht 238) This
Kriterion (Map p95; %623 17 08; www.kriterion.nl; for some Stravinsky or Indian sitar. meander.nl; Voetboogstraat 3) Live bands often followed night theatre showcases theatre, spoken word,
Roeterstraat 170) Premieres, theme parties, cult movies, Conservatorium van Amsterdam (Map pp92-3; up by DJs spinning funk, garage, soul and jazzy beats. exhibitions, poetry readings and live music,
classics, kids flicks and sneaks all in a former diamond %527 75 50; www.cva.ahk.nl; Van Baerlestraat 27) after which the space clears and it becomes a
factory. Students at the Netherlands largest conservatory of music ROCK & POP bangin nightclub.
Movies (Map pp86-7; %638 60 16; www.themovies offer recitals. Paradiso (Map pp92-3; %626 45 21; www.paradiso.nl; We- Koninklijk Theater Carr (Map p95; %09002525255;
.nl; Haarlemmerdijk 161) Arty films, indie US and UK mov- Muziektheater (Map pp92-3; %625 54 55; Wa- teringschans 6) This large former church has been www.theatercarre.nl; Amstel 115-125) The largest thea-
ies, and big studio releases in a beautiful Art Deco cinema. terlooplein 22; hticket office 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, the citys premier rock venue since the 1960s. tre in town offers mainstream international
Tuschinskitheater (Map pp92-3; %623 15 10; www 11.30am-6pm Sun) Large-scale ballet and opera. Free Big-name acts like Bright Eyes, Jurassic 5, shows, musicals, cabaret, opera, operetta, bal-
.pathe.nl/tuschinski; Reguliersbreestraat 26-34) Extensively lunchtime concerts of 20th-century music on Tuesday. Wilco and Lucinda have all appeared recently, let and circuses. Backstage tours (8/4 adult/
refurbished, the theatre is a monument to sumptuous Art and its regular dance evenings like Paradisco child) are at 11am on Saturday and are also
Deco/Amsterdam School interiors. It screens mainstream JAZZ & BLUES and Paradisoul are legendary. available by reservation; call%524 94 52.
blockbusters. Bimhuis (Map pp86-7; % 788 21 50; www.bimhuis Melkweg (Map pp92-3; Milky Way; %531 81 81; De Balie (Map pp92-3; %553 51 51; Kleine Gartman-
Rialto Cinema (Map pp86-7; %676 87 00; www .nl; Piet Heinkade 3) Amsterdams main jazz venue www.melkweg.nl; Lijnbaansgracht 234A) This former plantsoen 10) International productions spot-
.rialtofilm.nl; Ceintuurbaan 338) Great old cinema con- for years, now in stylish new digs in the milk factory off Leidseplein has been a top lighting multicultural and political issues are
AMSTERDAM 132 A M S T E R D A M E n t e r t a i n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M S h o p p i n g 133

AMSTERDAM
the focus here. De Balie also holds short-film concerts, from classical to hip world music, dance and SHOPPING Boutiques
festivals and political debates and has new- childrens performances. During the 17th century, Amsterdam was the Analik (Map p91; %422 05 61; Hartenstraat 34-36)
media facilities and a stylish bar. warehouse of the world, stuffed with riches Amsterdams pre-eminent fashion designer; stylish, very
Boom Chicago (Map pp92-3; %423 01 01; www Sport from neighbours and far-off colonies. But feminine pieces.
.boomchicago.nl; Leidseplein 12) Now an institution FOOTBALL even if the Dutch empire has since crumbled, Cora Kemperman (Map pp92-3; %625 12 84;
of sorts, Boom Chicago performs English- Local club Ajax is the Netherlands most fa- its capital remains a shoppers paradise. Leidsestraat 72) Successful Dutch designer specialising in
language stand-up and improvised comedy mous team: theyve won the European Cup The Damrak and the area around Leidse- floaty, layered separates and dresses in linen, cotton and
all year round. You can see shows over dinner four times and they launched Johan Cruyff to plein teem with tourist shops, while the wool.
and a few drinks the food heres decent. stellar heights in the 70s. The red-and-white busiest shopping streets are the down- to Laundry Industry (Map pp92-3; %420 25 54; Spui 1)
Comedy Caf Amsterdam (Map pp92-3; %638 39 stormers play in the Amsterdam ArenA (%311 13 mid-market Nieuwendijk and the more Well-cut, well-designed clothes by leading Dutch design
71; www.comedycaf.nl; Max Euweplein 43-45) While 33; Arena Blvd 11, Bijlmermeer) south of town. Matches upscale Kalverstraat and Leidsestraat, with house; soft leather coats, perfectly fitted suits. Theres
Boom Chicago is improv, the Comedy Caf usually take place on Saturday evening and department stores and clothing boutiques another branch at Magna Plaza (p96).
books in Dutch and international stand-up Sunday afternoon during the season (August serving large crowds, especially on Saturday Razzmatazz (Map p91; %420 04 83; Wolvenstraat 19)
comics (Sunday is regularly reserved for to May). The ArenA conducts a one-hour and Sunday. Expensive shops line Pieter Flamboyant, expensive designer outfits and avant-garde
English-speaking acts). guided stadium tour (%311 13 36; adult/child 10/8.50; Cornelisz Hooftstraat, and there are chic club clothes from labels including Vivienne Westwood,
Other options: h11am-4.30pm daily Apr-Sep, noon-4pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar, boutiques and cafs in the Negen Straatjes Frankie Morello and Andrew Mackenzie.
De Kleine Komedie (Map pp92-3; %624 05 34; www except on game days or during major events) that includes (Nine Alleys) of the western canal belt. An- Van Ravenstein (Map pp92-3; %639 00 67; Keizers-
.dekleinekomedie.nl; Amstel 56-58) This internationally a walk on the hallowed turf and entry to the tique and art outlets can be found in the gracht 359) Upmarket Dutch and Belgian designers such as
renowned theatre, founded in 1786, focuses on concerts, Ajax museum. Spiegel Quarter in the southern canal belt, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs,
dance, comedy and cabaret, sometimes in English. and the Jordaan is full of galleries and quirky Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf.
Felix Meritis (Map p91; %623 13 11; www.felix KORFBAL shops.
.meritis.nl; Keizersgracht 324) A hub of experimental A cross between netball, volleyball and basket- Department Stores
theatre, music and dance, with a bevy of coproductions ball, this sport elicits giggles from foreigners, Art & Antiques Try the Kalvertoren shopping centre (Map p91;
between Eastern and Western European artists. but it has a lively local club scene. For infor- Decorativa (Map pp92-3; %420 50 66; Nieuwe Singel 457) and Magna Plaza (p96) for upmarket
Openluchttheater (Open-Air Theatre; Map pp92-3; mation, contact the Amsterdam Sport Council Spiegelstraat 7) Amazing jumble of European antiques, fashion, gift and jewellery shops.
%673 14 99; www.openluchttheater.nl; Vondelpark) (%552 24 90), who can also provide information collectables and weird vintage gifts. De Bijenkorf (Map pp88-9; %621 80 80; Dam 1) The
From June to August the parks intimate theatre hosts free on other sports in town. EH Arins Kappers (Map pp92-3; %623 53 56; citys most fashionable department store; quality clothing,
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 32) Original prints, etchings, engrav- toys, household accessories and books.
ings, lithographs, 17th- to 19th-century maps, Japanese Hema (Map pp88-9; %638 99 63; Nieuwendijk 174)
BRILLIANT ORANGE woodblock prints. Once a Woolworths clone, now has wide-ranging stock
Heres one of the hottest tips in these pages: if you want the best, the funniest, the most in- Jaski (Map pp92-3; %620 39 39; Nieuwe Spiegelstraat including good-value wines and deli foods.
sightful analysis of what makes Amsterdam tick, then read Brilliant Orange: The Neurotic Genius of 27-29) Large commercial gallery selling paintings, prints, Maison de Bonneterie (Map pp92-3; %531 34 00;
Dutch Football by David Winner, a book aboutfootball. But you dont have to especially like the ceramics and sculptures by famous CoBrA artists. Rokin 140) Exclusive and classic lines of garments for the
sport to appreciate Brilliant Orange, for Winners skill lies in setting up a history of modern-day Prestige Art Gallery (Map pp92-3; %624 01 04; whole family. Features mens labels such as Ralph Lauren,
Dutch football as a mirror as in fact the driving force of modern-day Dutch society and the www.prestige-art-amsterdam.com; Reguliersbreestraat Tommy Hilfiger and Armani, but lots for women too.
Amsterdam we know and love today. 46) Specialises in 17th- to 20th-century oil paintings Metz & Co (Map pp92-3; %520 70 36; Keizersgracht
Youll be a believer when you read Winner describe, with humour and intelligence, how the and bronzes. 455) Boutique store with a fine line in luxury furnishings
Netherlands obsession with orderly yet beautiful landscapes, sophisticated built space and innova- and homewares, upmarket designer clothes, and gifts.
tive architecture is reflected in the fabulously free-flowing yet super-organised Dutch aesthetic of Books Vroom & Dreesmann (Map pp92-3; %622 01 71;
Total Football. According to Winner, this aesthetic was embodied in the great Ajax of Amsterdam For a list of bookshops, see p80 and p104; for Kalverstraat 201) Popular for its clothing and cosmetics,
side from the 1970s led by talismanic footballer Johan Cruyff, with an entire counterculture, book markets, see p134. but dont expect great flights of fantasy.
reaching far beyond the game, finding inspiration in Cruyffs progressive attitude, intelligence,
rebellion and prophecy. PAYMENTS ARE FOREVER
Dutch football, like Dutch architecture, Dutch art, Dutch tolerance and even Dutch politics,
Amsterdam has been a major diamond centre since the 16th century, and about a dozen diamond-
is a trick of perspective: its all about creating space, or even the illusion of space, out of abso-
cutters still operate in the city today. Of the five offering free guided tours, Gassan Diamonds
lutely nothing. As Winner adroitly demonstrates, nowhere is this more apparent than in Magic
is probably the best. Caution is advised, for that glint in your eye could lead to a lengthy series
Centre Amsterdam itself. of monthly instalments.
There are numerous illuminating insights, including Ajaxs self-image as a de facto Jewish Amsterdam Diamond Center (Map pp88-9; %624 57 87; Rokin 1; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri-Sun,
side, and how this compares to Jews in WWII Amsterdam. Winner also dissects the very Dutch to 8.30pm Thu)
footballing tendency to stumble at the final hurdle, usually manifested in losing big-match finals Coster Diamonds (Map pp92-3; %305 55 55; Paulus Potterstraat 2-6; h9am-5pm)
due to too much showing off and arrogance, and he links this to the lingering, stifling influence Gassan Diamonds (Map p95; %622 53 33; Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175; h9am-5pm)
of Dutch Calvinism. Stoeltie Diamonds (Map pp92-3; %623 76 01; Wagenstraat 13-17; h8.30am-5pm)
Its a spectacular book. Van Moppes & Zoon (Map pp92-3; %676 12 42; Albert Cuypstraat 2-6; h9am-5pm)
AMSTERDAM 134 A M S T E R D A M S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A M S T E R D A M G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 135

AMSTERDAM
represented and all budgets are catered for (the 17th- Car & Motorcycle
AMSTERDAM MARKETS century tulip vases cost thousands). Motorways link Amsterdam to Den Haag and
Markets mean crowds: beware of pickpockets. De Klompenboer (Map pp88-9; %623 06 32; St Rotterdam in the south, and to Utrecht and
Albert Cuypmarkt (Map pp92-3; Albert Cuypstraat; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) General market with food, clothing, Antoniesbreestraat 51) Bruno, the eccentric owner, gets Amersfoort in the southeast. Amsterdam is
hardware and household goods at rock-bottom prices. Wide multicultural mix of wares, vendors and clientele. his mum to hand-paint all the wooden shoes. The shop about 480km from Paris, 840km from Mu-
Antiques market Amstelveld (Map pp92-3; h9am-6pm last Fri of month in warmer months); Nieuwmarkt (Map displays samples of miniature wooden shoes and a 700- nich, 680km from Berlin and 730km from
pp88-9; h9am-5pm Sun May-Sep) You can peruse many genuine articles and loads of books and bric-a-brac. year-old pair. Copenhagen. The Hoek van Holland ferry
Theres also the De Looier antiques market (below). port is 80km away; IJmuiden is just up the
Bloemenmarkt (Map pp92-3; Singel; h9am-5pm, closed Sun winter) Floating flower market thats actually GETTING THERE & AWAY road along the Noordzeekanaal.
on pilings. Traders can advise on import regulations. The market is notorious for pickpockets. Amsterdam is well connected to the rest of the The Dutch automobile association, ANWB
Boerenmarkt (farmers market) Nieuwmarkt (Map pp88-9; h10am-3pm Sat); Noordermarkt (Map pp88-9; world. If youre looking for cheap deals, advice (Map pp92-3; %673 08 44; Museumplein 5), provides
h10am-3pm Sat) Home-grown produce, organic foods and picnic provisions. or shared rides, youre in the right place. information and services if you prove mem-
Book market Oudemanhuispoort (Map pp88-9; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri); Spui (Map pp92-3; h8am-6pm Fri) bership of your own association.
Oudemanhuispoort, the old arcade between Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Kloveniersburgwal (blink and youll miss Air
it), is the location of a market selling rare and old books plus newer books and art prints. The Spui also hosts a book Most major airlines fly directly to Schiphol (Map Train
market one day a week. pp86-7; %09000141; www.schiphol.nl), 18km south- Amsterdams main train station is Centraal
De Looier antiques market (Map pp92-3; %624 90 38; Elandsgracht 109; h11am-5pm Sat-Thu) Indoor west of the city centre. For information about Station. See p302 for information about in-
stalls selling jewellery, furniture, art and collectibles. getting to and from the Netherlands, includ- ternational trains.
Lindengracht market (Lindengracht; h11am-4pm Sat) General market. ing Amsterdam airline offices, see p298.
Noordermarkt (Map pp88-9; Noorderkerkstraat; h9am-1pm Mon, 10am-3pm Sat) Antiques, fabrics and Destination Price Duration Frequency
secondhand bric-a-brac. Boat () (min) (per hr)
Plant market (Map pp92-3; Amstelveld; h3-6pm Mon Easter-Christmas) All sorts of plants, pots and vases. Fast Flying Ferries (%639 22 47; adult/child return
Stamp & coin market (Map pp88-9; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 276; h10am-4pm Wed & Sat) Little streetside 7.45/4.35) runs a hydrofoil from pier 7 behind Den Haag 9.50 50 4
market selling stamps, coins and medals. Amsterdam Centraal Station (hourly on the Groningen 26.70 140 2
Waterlooplein flea market (Map pp92-3; Waterlooplein; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Sat) Amster- hour, half-hourly during peak times). The Haarlem 3.80 15 8
dams most famous flea market curios, secondhand clothing, music, electronic gear, hardware, cheap 25-minute trip drops you in Velsen, 3km short Maastricht 26.70 155 2
New Age gifts. of IJmuiden, where you can catch Connexxion Rotterdam 11.20 62 4
Westermarkt (Map p91; Westerstraat; h9am-1pm Mon) Cheapish clothes and textiles; some real bargains. bus 82 or 83 into IJmuiden. For travellers to Schiphol Airport 3.60 20 6
the UK and beyond, Scandinavian Seaways Utrecht 6.30 35 5
sails from IJmuiden to Newcastle (see p303).
Smart Drugs Fair Trade Shop (Map pp92-3; %625 22 45; Heiligeweg GETTING AROUND
Remember that taking drugs out of the coun- 45) Charity shop with quality, stylish goods from developing Bus To/From the Airport
try is illegal. countries: clothes, gifts, CDs and ceramics. The shop works For details of regional buses in the Nether- A taxi into Amsterdam from Schiphol Air-
Chills & Thrills (Map pp88-9; %638 00 15; Nieuwendijk directly with producers and provides ongoing business lands, call the transport information service port takes 20 to 45 minutes and costs about
17) Herbal trips, mushrooms, psychoactive cacti, novelty training. (%09009292, per min 0.50). Fares and travel dura- 40. Trains to Centraal Station leave every
bongs and life-sized alien sculptures. Packed with tourists. Himalaya (Map pp88-9; %626 08 99; Warmoesstraat tions are covered under towns in the regional 15 minutes, take 15 to 20 minutes, and cost
Innerspace (Map pp88-9; %624 33 38; Spuistraat 108) 56) A peaceful New Age oasis in the middle of the Red chapters. 3.60/6.20 per single/return. Train-ticket
Known for good service and information, this large shop Light District, this is the place to stock up on crystals, ambi- Amsterdam has good long-distance bus links counters are in the central court of Schiphol
started as a supplier to large parties. ent CDs and books on the healing arts. More good karma is with the rest of Europe and North Africa. Plaza; buy your ticket before taking the es-
Magic Mushroom Gallery (Map pp88-9; %427 57 available in the tea room. Eurolines (Map pp88-9; %560 87 87; www.eurolines calator down to the platforms. Buy a strip-
65; Spuistraat 249) Fresh and dried shrooms, growing kits, Maraon Hangmatten (Map pp92-3; %420 71 21; .nl; Rokin 10) tickets can be bought at its office penkaart here while youre at it (see the boxed
herbal ecstasy and smart drinks. Singel 488) Europes largest selection of hammocks, made near the Dam, at most travel agencies and at text, p307).
by many producers from indigenous weavers to large NS Reisburo (Netherlands Railways Travel Another way to the airport is by Schiphol
Speciality Shops manufacturers. Bureau) in Centraal Station. Fares are con- Travel Taxi (%09008876; www.schiphol.nl). This mini-
Art Multiples (Map pp92-3; %624 84 19; Keizersgracht Santa Jet (Map pp88-9; %427 20 70; Prinsenstraat 7) sistently lower than those for the train, and van service takes up to eight people from
510) Thousands of postcards on unusual topics, including Mexican shrines, religious icons, Day of the Dead parapher- departures are from the bus station (%694 56 anywhere in the country to the departure
raunchy 3D ones (popular), plus beautiful art posters and nalia, candles and love potions. 31) next to Amstelstation. terminal, provided you book a day ahead.
museum-shop gifts. Busabout (www.busabout.com) tickets can bought From central Amsterdam the fare is fixed at
Condomerie het Gulden Vlies (Map pp88-9; %627 Traditional Souvenirs through the companys London office in the 22 per person, one way.
41 74; www.condomerie.nl; Warmoesstraat 141) Hundreds Galleria dArte Rinascimento (Map p91; %622 75 UK, call %020-7950 1661 or on the coaches By car, take the A4 freeway to/from the A10
of kooky condoms plus lubricants and saucy gifts. 09; Prinsengracht 170) Royal Delftware, vases, platters, themselves. Coaches stop at the Hans Brinker ring road around Amsterdam. A short stretch
Droog Design (Map pp92-3; %523 50 59; www brooches, Christmas ornaments, 19th-century wall tiles Budget Hotel (p120) on Kerkstraat, smack in of A9 connects to the A4 close to Schiphol.
.droogdesign.nl; Staalstraat 7B; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun) and plaques. the middle of the city. The car-hire offices at the airport are in the
Leading design firm with inventions such as the 85-lamp Heinen (Map pp92-3; %627 82 99; Prinsengracht For further details of Eurolines, Busabout right corner of the complex, near the central
chandelier, the cow chair and curtains with dress patterns. 440) Four floors of Delftware; all the major factories are and other coach services, see p301. exits of Schiphol Plaza.
 Lonely Planet Publications
AMSTERDAM 136 A M S T E R D A M G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 137

AMSTERDAM
PARKING CANAL BOAT, BUS & BIKE
The airports short-term parking garages The Canal Bus (Map pp92-3; % 623 98 86; www
charge 1.90 per half-hour for the first three .canalbus.nl; day pass per adult/under 13yr 17/11) does
hours, then 2.70 per hour. The charge is several circuits, beginning at its stop near
24 a day for the first three days, 12.50 a Centraal Station (Map pp889) and ending
day thereafter. The long-term parking area at the Rijksmuseum, between 9.50am and
charges a minimum 50 for up to three days 8pm. The day pass is valid until noon the
and 5 for each day thereafter a reason- next day. The same company rents canal
able alternative to parking in the city (see bikes (pedal boats) for 9 per person per
also right). hour (7 if more than two people per canal
bike). Docks are by Leidseplein and near the
Bicycle Anne Frank Huis.
Amsterdam is an urban cyclists dream: flat, Every 30 or 45 minutes the Lovers Museum
beautiful and crammed full of dedicated bike Boat (Map pp88-9; %622 21 81; www.lovers.nl; day pass
paths. Local cyclists have a liberal interpre- from 8.50) leaves from the Lovers terminal in
tation of traffic rules, but almost everyone front of Centraal Station. There are discounts
catches on quick. About 80,000 bicycles are after 1pm.
stolen each year in Amsterdam alone its
no surprise that many bikes carry locks worth Car & Motorcycle
more than the thing itself. Honestly why on earth would you drive
The Dutch automobile association, ANWB around Amsterdam when you can either bike
(Map pp92-3; %673 08 44; Museumplein 5), provides it or take advantage of the superb public-
cycling maps and information. For details on transport system? Added to that, parking is Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
bicycling laws, tours and more, see p69. far from cheap and there are dire penalties restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
for nonconformists: a wheel clamp and a 91 only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
HIRE fine.
Prices listed below are for standard coaster- Try the Transferium parking garage (%400 everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
brake bikes; models with gears cost a bit more. 17 21) at Amsterdam ArenA stadium. Park- the above - Do the right thing with our content.
Theres also the bakfiets (a carrier tricycle that ing costs 5.50 per day including two return
looks like an ice cream vendors), which is metro tickets to the city centre.
perfect for carting around kids (or drinking
buddies). All companies listed here require a Public Transport
passport or ID and a credit-card imprint or When the masses need to move, Amsterdams
cash deposit. public transport tram, sneltram (fast tram),
Bike City (Map p91; %626 37 21; www.bikecity.nl; bus and metro gets them there with startling
Bloemgracht 68-70; per day/week 8.50/41) No advertising efficiently. Most tram and bus lines, as well as
on the bikes, so you blend in better with the locals. the metro, converge at Centraal Station.
Holland Rent-a-Bike (Map pp88-9; %622 32 07; Amsterdam transport authority GVB (Map
Damrak 247; per day/week 6.50/34.50) pp88-9; % 09008011; www.gvb.nl; Stationsplein 10;
MacBike (www.macbike.nl; per day/week 8.50/29.75); h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun) has an in-
Centraal Station (Map pp88-9; %624 83 91); Mr Visserplein formation office across the tram tracks from
(Map p95; %620 09 85; Mr Visserplein 2); Weteringschans Centraal Stations main entrance. Here you
(Map pp92-3; %528 76 88; Weteringschans 2) Bikes can get tickets, maps and the like. The web-
come complete with an absolutely ENORMOUS logo. You site has lots of useful information, including
will stand out. details of how to reach key sights.
Mikes Bike Tours (Map pp92-3; %622 79 70; www
.mikesbiketours.com; Kerkstraat 134; per half day/full TICKETS & PASSES
day/additional day 5/7/5) The best deal is the strippenkaart: a multifare
strip ticket thats valid on all buses, trams and
Boat metro routes (see the boxed text, p307).
FERRIES
There are free ferries from behind Centraal Taxi
Station to destinations around the IJ, notably Amsterdam taxis are expensive, even over
Amsterdam Noord (Map pp889). Ferries to short journeys. Try Taxicentrale Amsterdam
the eastern docklands cost 1. (%677 77 77).
 Lonely Planet Publications
145

Noord Holland &

Flevoland
In this part of the world, theres no denying that Amsterdam rules the roost. But (literally)
just outside its borders lies a bountiful region of bucolic sedation sprinkled with heart-
warming towns and comely villages that must not be overlooked by visitors.

NOORD HOLLAND &

FLEVOLAND
Only 15 minutes west of the capital, graceful Haarlem is Noord Hollands crowning glory,
a town of immense charm and 17th-century grandeur. Its pubs are some of the cosiest in the
country, and its museums among the most inviting. On its western outskirts are the wide,
sandy beaches of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal, and the varied and evocative dunescape of
the Kennemerduinen nature reserve.

Moving north, the Gouwzee Bay towns of Edam, Volendam and Marken hold special places
in Dutch culture for cheese, traditional customs and defiance of the sea. Easily visited as
day trips from Amsterdam, the towns may tempt you to linger overnight to soak up their
peaceful ambience once the bus loads have dispersed. Monnickendam, in the heart of the
rural Waterland region, is less frequented but has a treasury of 17th-century architecture. Not
far north again, the Golden Age ports of Hoorn and Enkhuizen have engaging old centres;
the latter is also home to the Zuiderzeemuseum, an open-air extravaganza that is the last
remnant of life on the Zuiderzee before the intervention of the Afsluitdijk.

On the way to the Waddenzee island of Texel is Alkmaar, famous for its kitschy but un-
forgettable traditional cheese auction. Texel itself is a gem, with generous sand hills built
generations ago, long, fine beaches, busy little villages, sheep-swamped polders, and a forest
or two to add a bit of diversity.

HIGHLIGHTS
Texel Island
Explore the world-class museums of
Haarlem (p147) and its charming
centre
Wonder why beautiful Edam (p157) isnt
flooded with fellow tourists
Cycle through the high sand dunes, quiet Zuiderzeemuseum

forests, and green pastures of Texel (p167)

cheese
market
Experience the hardy life of Noord Hollands
seafaring towns before the Afsluitdijk at
Edam
Enkhuizens Zuiderzeemuseum (p164)
Get away with cutting the cheese
Haarlem
at Alkmaars celebrated cheese
market (p161)
 146 N O O R D H O L L A N D & F L E V O L A N D www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D H a a r l e m 147

HAARLEM
NOORD HOLLAND & FLEVOLAND
To Ameland
0
0
20 km
12 mi
NOORD HOLLAND %023 / pop 148,000
Everybody loves Haarlem, and its not hard
Terschelling
History to see why. This achingly pretty city of cob-
Hogebeintum
The peninsula now known as North Holland ble-stone streets, historic buildings, grand
Ee
Dokkum was part of Friesland until the 12th century, churches, even grander museums, cosy bars,
er when storm floods created the Zuiderzee top-class restaurants, and antique shops is a
m To Groningen
Vlieland

u
kk
(44km)
and isolated West Friesland. By this time the sure-fire heart-warmer. Its more than easy to

Do
Leeuwarden mercantile counts of Holland ruled the area visit as a day trip from Amsterdam, but as a
A31 or thought they did. One of the early counts, place with so much on offer in such a compact
aal
NORTH Franeker tkan Willem II, became king of the Holy Roman area, you may find yourself turning the tables
grie
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Harlingen Mar

e
SEA Empire in 1247 but perished in a raid against on the capital and using Haarlem as a base to
ze
en FRIESLAND
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
N384 the West Frisians (his horse fell through explore the surrounds.
d

Texel
d

N359 the ice). His son, Count Floris V, succeeded

a

Oosterend
W

A7

Den
Burg
To
Groningen
in taming his defiant subjects 40 years later History
Makkum E22
A7
Sneek
A7
(39km) (p166). The name Haarlem derives from Haarloheim,
E22
West Friesland was now owned by the meaning a wooded place on high, sandy soil.
E22
Workum
Heerenveen county of Holland, a founding member of Its origins date back to the 10th century when
Den Helder Den
Oever Hindeloopen the Republic of Seven United Netherlands the counts of Holland set up a toll post on the
(1579). Northern Holland played a key role Spaarne River. Haarlem quickly became the
Wolvega
Stavoren A32 To in the long struggle against Spanish domina- most important inland port after Amsterdam,
Zwolle
(35km) tion, and the town of Alkmaar was the first but suffered a major setback when the Spanish
IJ

to throw off the yoke. The era of prosper- invaded in 1572. The city surrendered after
ss
el

ity known as the Golden Age ensued, and a seven-month siege but worse was yet to
m

Weerribben
ee

A6 National Park
Medemblik
North Holland has its fair share of richly come: upon capitulation virtually the entire
r

NOORD HOLLAND
ornamented buildings from this period. population was slaughtered. After the Spanish
Giethoorn
Emmeloord The fishing and trading ports of Enkhuizen, were finally repelled by Willem van Oranje,

Enkhuizen
Broek op Langedijk Urk
N50
Medemblik and Edam were at the centre of Haarlem soared into the prosperity of the
Alkmaar Heerhugowaard Schokland this boom. Golden Age, attracting painters and artists
N302 Ens
Hoorn Napoleon invaded Holland in 1795 and from throughout Europe.
To split it in two to break its economic power.
A9
A7 Kampen Emmen
(65km) Even after Holland came under the House of Orientation
E22 A6
Edam
FLEVOLAND N50 Orange in 1813, a divide remained and the Grote Markt, the main square, is a 500m walk
Nordzeekanaal Zwolle
Beverwijk
Zaanse
Schans Purmerend
Volendam
Gouwzee
Lelystad provinces of North and South Holland were south of the bus and train stations. The centre
A8
Velsen
IJmuiden Zaandijk
Bay
Landsmeer Monnickendam Oostvaardersplassen established in 1840. has a large pedestrianised section, with lots of
Marken
Zaandam
Broek in Waterland Nature Reserve Today North Hollands main business is pubs and restaurants along Zijlstraat, Grote
Kennemerduinen Uitdam
Nature Reserve Waterland agriculture. Houtstraat and especially Lange Veerstraat.
Overveen
Haarlem AMSTERDAM Biddinghuizen Grote Kerk van St Bavo, the central landmark,
A28
Zandvoort A9
A10
Muiden Almere
Harderwijk Getting There & Around can be seen from anywhere in the city.
E232 A50 Noord Holland is well served by the national
Hoofdorp Amstelveen
Naarden Huizen rail service, and where the train ends the bus Information
Laren
Noordwijk A4 Aalsmeer
A1 networks take over. All Connexxion buses in GWK exchange office (h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
aan Zee Het
A44 Gooi Hilversum Apeldoorn the province cost 2 after 9am and all day on 5pm Sat) In the train station, and close to two ATMs.
E35
weekends. Library (%515 76 00; Doelenplein 1; h11am-8pm
Loosdrecht A1
Leiden
A27 E30 Motorways run northsouth from Haar- Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-4pm Sat) Provides internet termi-
A2 To Enschede
Alphen
a/d Rijn
UTRECHT (62km) lem to Alkmaar (the A9), and from Amster- nals that can be tapped for free.
E19 Utrecht Amersfoort A30 dam to Den Oever (the A7), which continues Main post office (Gedempte Oude Gracht 2)
E30
on to Friesland via the 30km-long Afsluit- My Beautiful Laundrette (Botermarkt 20; h8.30am-
A12 A50
A12 A12 dijk. From Enkhuizen theres another fast 8.30pm) Takes last loads at 7pm.
E30 Nieuwegein
Veenendaal E232 Arnhem dyke road, the N302, running across the Tourist office (%09006161600; www.vvvzk.nl;
Gouda A348 IJsselmeer to Lelystad in Flevoland. Bike Stationsplein 1; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
E25
Lek
Rhenen trails lace the province in almost every direc- 4pm Sat Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat
A12
To
tion, and you can cover the flat stretch from Nov-Mar) Sells a handy map of the city (2), along with a
Leerdam Eindhoven
(50km)
Amsterdam to Den Helder in two days at a useful walking guide (2). Staff will reserve local accom-
ROTTERDAM leisurely pace. modation for 5.
 148 N O O R D H O L L A N D H a a r l e m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D H a a r l e m 149

0 400 m
HAARLEM 0 0.2 miles
HAARLEMS URBAN OASES

A B C D Haarlem is a peaceful city at the rowdiest of times, but even such a serene place needs its fair
INFORMATION Grote Kerk van St Bavo.....................10 B3 SLEEPING
share of oases. Collectively known as hofjes leafy courtyards enclosed by rows of sweet little
ABN-Amro.......................................1 B3 Hofje van Loo..................................11 A4 Hotel Amadeus.................................21 B3 homes these green spaces initially served as monastery gardens in the Middle Ages. Eventu-
Main Post Office..............................2 A3 Hofje van Staats...............................12 C2 Hotel Carillon...................................22 B3
1 My Beautiful Laundrette...................3 B4 Laurens Coster..................................13 B3 Hotel Caruso....................................23 B3 ally they took on broader roles for hospitals and inns, or as refuges for orphans, widows and
Library..............................................4 A4 Nieuwe Kerk....................................14 A4 Joops Hotel......................................24 B4 the elderly. These private squares also give clues about Dutch social concerns and the origins
Tourist Office...................................5 C2 Proveniershuis..................................15 A4
of the modern welfare state.

St Joris Doelen..................................16 B4 EATING

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Teylers Hofje....................................17 C3 A la Turka.........................................25 B3 Most hofjes date from the 15th to the 18th centuries and are open to viewing on weekends
Bakenesserkerk.................................6 C3 Teylers Museum.............................. 18 C4 De Haerlemsche Vlaamse..................26 B3
Brouwers Hofje................................7 A4 Town Hall.........................................19 B3 Eko Eetkaf......................................27 A3 only, but you can usually take a discreet peek any time. Ask the tourist office for its walking-guide
Frans Hals Museum..........................8 B4 Verweyhal......................................(see 20) Flamboyant......................................28 B4 brochure, Hofjeswandeling, which includes the following:
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Frans Loenen Hofje..........................9 A3 Vleeshal............................................20 B3 Nas Brasas........................................29 B3
train station
Pieck Jacobus....................................30 B4 Brouwers Hofje (Tuchthuisstraat 8) Lodging for members of the brewers guild (1472).
FLEVOLAND

Specktakel........................................
Prin 31 B3

FLEVOLAND
5 Frans Loenen Hofje (Witte Herenstraat 24) Almshouses built from a merchants estate (1607).

eg
To Haarlem Stayokay Hostel (3km); Rozenstr sen
eg

ew
Kennemerduinen Nature Stations B
Kenaus olw Hofje van Loo (Barrevoetestraat 7) A womens hospital donated by mayor Sijmon Pieterszoon van Loo (1489);
Kruisw
tr pl DRINKING

ms
Reserve (3km); er

weg

Kenau- k
Caf 1900........................................ 32 B3

da
2 Zandvoort (5km)
park 41 one of the most visible in Haarlem.

rn
Lange H

Jans
Caf Het Melkwoud.........................33 B3

aa
erenstr

Sp
12
Caf Studio.......................................34 B3 Hofje van Staats (Jansweg 39) One of the towns biggest, donated by a Haarlem merchant to poor women of the
Prinsenbrug 35
Proeflokaal In den Uiver................... B3
huissin gel

Parklaan
Parklaan Reformed Church (1733), and still houses single, elderly women.
Zijlweg Oost
Nieuwe
Gr ENTERTAINMENT St Joris Doelen (Grote Houtstraat 144) A proveniershuis given as a donation; almshouse, later a gentlemens inn
Nieuwe
Gr Nieuwe
Caf Stiels.........................................36 B3
(1591).
isv inder

O
ud
Patronaat......................................... 37 A3
Gracht ew
Kruisstr

eg Teylers Hofje (Koudenhorn 64) Unusually grand affair, built by Pieter Teyler van der Hulst, founder of the Teyler
K

Philharmonie.................................... eg38 C3
est

Zijlw
eg n sw
n ja
Stadsschouwburg............................. 39 A4
Ridderstr e
Museum (1787).
rhu

str

29 Zakstr arm
Toneelschuur................................... 40 C3
eren
de

Nieuwe H
Kou
Kin

Kruisstr
Jansstr
H

9 TRANSPORT
Va lsingel

Witte

de

37 27
The tourist office also runs guided tours, but at 74.50 a pop (up to 25 persons), youll need
n

Bus Station.......................................41 B2
nh
art

t
aulaa

ark

Brou
Zij

or

3 wers 33 36 Waltheus Cruises............................. 42 C4

nm

kade 32 Catharijnebrug either a lot of friends with you or to be completely bonkers for gardens.
Bake
Sm
Nass

oe

ed

tr
Gr

't K

Raaksbrug Raaks
Janss

2 25
ness
est

Zijls
rom

34
est
Zijlvdse

nestr

23 tr 17
r

1
22 40
ergr
i

-
uwe
Le

Begij

Ba

Grote Markt
13 35 Vrotr To Campsite
e
Gede

Jacob
ken st

ar n

ijnest 19 26 s 6 e De Liede (2.5km) which started life as an almshouse. Its wonder- exceptional attention to mood and psychologi-

38 rn
ess r

r 21
t

20 10 aa pa e Vaart
ark

Doele
mpte

Amsterdams
er-

Sp n S tm
str s- Gasthu isstr

pl -
n
31 Oude Groenmarkt
e r e n e
Ho
u ful old hofje (almshouse) is one of Haarlems cal tone. Dont miss his two paintings known
Donk Bin
Oud

11 18
tr

30 str
prettiest (see above). Around the corner to collectively as the Regents & the Regentesses
e rt

Barre 4 Gravestenenbrug ouder

str

Veers

24
jek evaa

voete arne 42
Amsterdamse
e Gr

ing

r An w
tr

str s t e p a a r n
n

ut gan S Spa Buurt

ge the west, down charming Korte Houtstraat, is of the Old Mens Alms House (1664). Among
inas

Ko
ids
ad

o g n
7 Botermarkt H La
Tuchthui
Le

Ve
mgr
elm

Melkbrug
the 17th-century Nieuwe Kerk (h10am Sunday); the other treasures are the curious works by Hals
rw

tr
an

3
uts

st
ul
Wilh

28
Raa

r
Or

ote

e
rst

ft

Ho

el env

capricious tower by Lieven de Key is supported teacher, Flemish artist Carel van Mander: ceil-
Gie

Ale 16 Hag
Gr

Kleine
mpte

estr
ing Her
rgw l

xan G
Bu rgwa
d

al

der ed
lan

4 str em
by a rather boxy design by Jacob van Campen. ing-high illustrations of the human anatomy
re ge
ilig

p
e

Bu

Wil d te
Sp
Ged

He Lan

n
He

son Doe l a
ns

spl lstr Northeast of the Teylers Museum stands with biblical and mythological allusions. Other
aa

Ou de Gr
g
Klein

Heili

39
rne

Nie 14 15
uw
eR the striking Bakenesserkerk (cnr Vrouwestraat & highlights include short snippets of the citys
Groot

aam
Tu

Raa K
str erkstr
rfm

mv
est Kort
Houste Bakenesserstraat), a late-15th-century church with history and a peaceful inner hofje.
ark

To Leiden To Amsterdam
t

r (44km) 8 (20km) Langebrug

a lamp-lit tower of sandstone. The stone was Depending on your tastes, the Teylers Mu-
employed here when the Grote Kerk proved seum (%531 90 10; Spaarne 16; adult/child 4.50/1;
Sights & Activities ing 30m high with about 5000 pipes. It was too weak to support a heavy steeple hence h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) may top Frans
Large Grote Markt, with its flanks of restaurants played by Handel and Mozart, the latter when the wooden tower of the cathedral we see Hals. Named after philanthropist-merchant
and cafs and a clutch of historical buildings, is he was just 10. There are tours in English on today. A private firm occupies it but you can Pieter Teyler van der Hulst, its the oldest
a good place to start an exploration of Haarlem. request. Free organ recitals take place at 3pm still peek inside. museum in the country (1778) and contains
At the western end stands the florid, 14th- on Saturday and also 8.15pm every Tuesday, an array of whiz-bang inventions, such as an
century town hall, which sprouted many exten- April to September. MUSEUMS 18th-century electrostatic machine that con-
sions including a balcony where judgments from In the centre of Grote Markt stand the 17th- The Frans Hals Museum (%511 57 75; www.frans jures up visions of mad scientists. At 4m long
the high court were pronounced. The counts century Vleeshal, a former meat market, and halsmuseum.nl; Groot Heiligland 62; adult/child 7/free; and 2m high, this amazing beast once ran on
hall contains 15th-century panel paintings and the Verweyhal, an old fish market; both serve h11am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) is a must for batteries the size of a milk wagon. The eclectic
is normally open during office hours. as modern art annexes of the Frans Hals Mu- anyone interested in the Dutch masters. Kept collection also has paintings from the Dutch
At the opposite end looms the Grote Kerk seum. On the square north of the Grote Kerk is in an almshouse where Hals spent his final, and French schools and numerous temporary
van St Bavo (%553 20 40; Oude Groenmarkt 23; adult/child a statue of Laurens Coster, whom Haarlemmers impoverished years, the collection focuses on exhibitions. The interiors are as good as the
2/1.25; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat), the Gothic cathedral believe has a claim, along with Gutenberg, to the 17th-century Haarlem School, which is displays: the magnificent, sky-lighted Ovale
with a towering 50m-high steeple. It contains be called the inventor of movable type. regarded as the pinnacle of Dutch mannerist Zaal (Oval Room) contains natural history
some fine Renaissance artworks, but the star Off Grote Houtstraat to the southwest stands art. Eight group portraits by Hals detailing specimens in elegant glass cases on two levels.
attraction is its stunning Mller organ one the Proveniershuis, the former headquarters of St the companies of the Civic Guard are the mu- Elsewhere youll find fossils, ancient relics and
of the most magnificent in the world, stand- Joris Doelen (the Civic Guards of St George), seums pride and joy, revealing the painters mineral crystals.
 150 N O O R D H O L L A N D H a a r l e m Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D H a a r l e m 151

On Grote Markt, the Vleeshal holds contem- Campsite De Liede (%533 86 66; Lieoever 68; camp flavoured beer is almost a meal in itself, and to the Philharmonie, the Stadsschouwburg is
porary art exhibitions; the Verweyhal next door, site 12.10, car 3.50) This leafy site 2.5km east of you may want to set a limit; its alcohol content currently undergoing major renovation and
in a fancy Renaissance building designed by the old centre enjoys a lakeside location and is a healthy 8.5%. should be ready well, sometime in the future
Lieven de Key, houses the Frans Hals Mu- rents canoes and paddle boats. Take bus 2 Caf 1900 (%531 82 83; Barteljorisstraat 10) This is all anyone knew. Check with the tourist
seums collection of modern art, including from the train station (direction Zuidpolder) authentic brown caf is a little gem, with a fin-de- office for more information.
works by Dutch impressionists and the CoBrA and alight at Zoete Inval. sicle interior, long bar perfect for propping
movement. The museums are known collec- up, and pleasantly mixed crowd. Live bands Shopping
tively as De Hallen (adult/child 5/3.50; h11am-5pm Eating and DJs often feature on weekends. Monday is market day at Botermarkt and
Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun). The streets around the Dom and Lange Veer- Caf Studio (%531 00 33; Grote Markt 25) Within Grote Markt, and again on Saturday at Grote
straat offer a treasure-trove of enticing res- view of the cathedral is this caf/bar, which Markt. Friday also sees Botermarkt come alive
Tours taurants. Its a good idea to reserve ahead, seems a nice, calm place for a drink in the to a local farmers market.
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Woltheus Cruises (%535 77 23; Spaarne 11a; adult/child although the huge selection means youll find early evening (inside or on its terrace), but by
Getting There & Away
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
6.50/3.50) runs canal boat tours in English; 50- a table somewhere. 10pm it heaves with 20- and 30-somethings
minute tours run every hour from noon to Nas Brasas (%532 88 02; Kruisstraat 13; tapas 4.95; looking to make the most of a night out. The citys Art Deco station is served by
5pm April to October. hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun) Nas Brasas is a lively Proeflokaal In den Uiver (%532 53 99; Rivier vis- frequent trains running on the Amsterdam
tapas restaurant whose convivial, warm at- markt 13) This quirky old place has shipping Rotterdam line.
Sleeping mosphere suits romantic couples and groups knick-knacks and a schooner sailing right
The tourist office has a list of B&Bs from 24 alike. The tapas, of which theres a long, long over the bar. Theres jazz on Thursday and Destination Price Duration Frequency
per person. list, are so good that its almost impossible not Sunday evenings. () (min) (per hr)
Joops Hotel (%532 20 08; www.joopshotel.com; Oude to go for a second round. Caf het Melkwoud (%531 35 35; Zijlstraat 63) A
Groenmarkt 20; r/studio from 85/85; i) The friendly Eko Eetkaf (%532 65 68; Ziljstraat 39; mains 8-18; great place to nurse a beer with crunchy locals Alkmaar 5.70 30-50 4
Joops Hotel has 100-plus very individual hlunch & dinner) An offshoot of the Eko organic behind those ceiling-high windows. You cant Amsterdam 3.60 15 5-8
rooms spread over an entire block near the foods association, this obliging little eatery miss the sign a tree shaped like a woman. Den Haag 7.00 35-40 4-6
Grote Kerk. Space isnt an issue and the stu- offers fish and vegetarian dishes with a clear Rotterdam 10.10 50 4
dios have a kitchenette. Reception is on the conscience. Its a short walk from the town Entertainment
ground floor in the Belly & Bolly antique centre but definitely worth the effort. To find out whats on, grab a copy of the free Bus 300 links Haarlem train station and
shop, run by a pair of amiable gents. De Haerlemsche Vlaamse (%532 59 91; Spekstraat local paper De Haarlemmer or the listings Schiphol Airport (45 minutes, six times
Hotel Carillon (%531 05 91; www.hotelcarillon.com; 3; frites 1-3; hlunch & dinner) Practically on the handout Luna at the tourist office or pubs. hourly) between 5am and midnight. Con-
Grote Markt 27; s/d from 38/63) Run by a friendly doorstep of the Grote Kerk, this frites joint not nexxion bus 80 stops at Houtplein, south
young crew, this small hotel has ageing but much bigger than a telephone box is a local CLUBS of the centre, and goes to/from Amsterdam
completely OK rooms in the shadow of the institution. Line up for its fries and choose Caf Stiels (%531 69 40; Smedestraat 21) For jazz Marnixstraat (40 minutes, two to four times
Grote Kerk. Breakfast can be taken in wicker from one of a dozen sauces. and rhythm & blues, bands play on the back hourly). Bus 81 goes to Zandvoort bus sta-
chairs on the sidewalk caf. Pieck Jacobus (%532 61 44; Warmoesstraat 18; mains stage almost every night of the week from tion by way of Overveen (15 minutes, twice
Haarlem Stayokay Hostel (%537 37 93; haarlem@ 10-17; hlunch & dinner) This little eetcaf with the 10pm onwards. hourly). IJmuidens Dennekoplaan, close
stayokay.com; Jan Gijzenpad 3; dm 26.75; i) This lake- big front windows is stripped back and cosy, Patronaat (%517 58 58; www.patronaat.nl; Zijlsingel to the locks and the beach, can be reached
side youth hostel has a 10pm silence rule, but and offers a variety of delightful dishes, such 2) Haarlems top music and dance club at- on buses 4 and 75 (40 minutes, four times
theres no curfew. The super clean rooms as kebab sausages or spicy lamb. tracts bands with banging tunes. Events in this hourly).
are stripped back and basic, but the bar-caf Specktakel (%532 38 41; Spekstraat 4; mains 18; cavernous venue usually start around 7pm or During the tulip season from late March to
has plenty of warmth and character. Laundry hdinner) This Dutch diner is vying for UN 9pm unless its a midnight rave. late May, Connexxion normally runs buses
and cooking facilities are available. Take bus membership judging by its worldly menu of from Haarlem to the Keukenhof bulb fields via
2 (direction Haarlem Noord) from the train Australian emu fillet to Indian lamb masala. THEATRE Lisse (45 minutes, two to four times hourly).
station (10 minutes). Its another of Haarlems long, thin diners, Toneelschuur (%517 39 10; www.toneschuur.nl; Lange Check with the tourist office (p147) for the
Hotel Caruso (%542 14 20; www.hotelrestaurant and theres streetside seating for sunny days. Begijnestraat 9) This bizarre multilevel stage most up-to-date information.
caruso.nl; Zijlstraat 56-58; r from 75) This hotel above Also recommended: complex (designed by a Dutch cartoonist,
the Italian restaurant of the same name is on Flamboyant (%542 15 03; Kleine Houtstraat 3; mains Joost Swarte) has a daring agenda of experi- Getting Around
a quiet pedestrian street in the heart of Haar- 14-20; hdinner Wed-Mon) Warm and cosy; Haarlems mental dance, theatre and art-house cinema, The bus information kiosk (h 7.30am-5.30pm
lem. The no-fuss rooms are large and lightly finest Indonesian restaurant. and acts as a production house for up-and- Mon-Fri, 9.15am-4.30pm Sat) opposite the train
coloured, and all come with bathroom. A la Turka (%534 11 62; Zijlstraat 95; mains 14-19; coming directors. station has plenty of schedules, otherwise
Hotel Amadeus (%532 45 30; www.amadeus-hotel hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Hearty Turkish cuisine near Philharmonie (%512 12 12; www.philharmonie.nu; check the schedule boards at departure bays.
.com; Grote Markt 10; s/d 60/80; i) Amadeus enjoys the Grote Markt. Lange Begijnestraat 11) Haarlems venerable concert Bus 2 from the train and bus station stops
a brilliant spot nestled in a row of old gabled hall, which features music from every spec- at Zijlstraat, just east of Grote Markt (five
houses on the main square. Rooms are one Drinking trum imaginable (except perhaps Death Metal, minutes).
step up from bare bones, but theyre comfy Haarlems slew of atmospheric drinking holes but with the Dutch, you never know). Regular taxis (%515 15 15) are everywhere in
and have a few mod cons, and theres a small are perfect spots to try Jopen Koyt, the local Stadsschouwburg (%512 12 12; Wilsonsplein 23) Haarlem, and theres a large bicycle shop (%531
caf on the first floor. beer. First brewed in 1401, this dark, richly The citys municipal theatre and sister venue 70 66) for rentals in the train station.


152 N O O R D H O L L A N D A r o u n d H a a r l e m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D B e v e r w i j k 153

AROUND HAARLEM country, just outside the eastern border of the KENNEMERDUINEN NATURE RESERVE 0
0 0.5 mi
1 km

Beaches park, with views of the sea and Amsterdam.

Just 5km west of Haarlems peaceful outskirts On a sombre note, the WWII cemetery Olmenberg Fazanten
lies Zandvoort, a popular seaside resort. Its Erebegraafplaats Bloemendaal (%020-660 1945; Zuidervlak
Cremermeer
Bos

no great shakes as beach towns go, and drab admission free; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar) Zuidreep
Watervlak Slinger
Scheidingsbos
apartment blocks line the main drag, but its is the resting place of 372 members of the Starrevlak

proximity to Amsterdam ensures a steady flow Dutch resistance. Its walled compound in the
De Wieringen
of pleasure-seekers. The main pastime here is dunes is isolated from the rest of the park and

beach bumming, but you can also catch the accessible only via the main road. Verlengde
Kattendel
Klein Olmen
playground
occasional sports-car event at the Circuit Park Rough camping is a no-no, but the park-

De Grote Grote
Zandvoort (www.circuit-zandvoort.nl) just to the north run site De Lakens (%075-647 23 93; www.kdc.nu; camp NORTH Pan Vlak
NOORD HOLLAND &

Doornen

NOORD HOLLAND &

Peperedel Brederode
Gat Tussenvlak
of the resort. sites from 27.10, bungalows per week from 160) enjoys SEA
Ogenkuil
Berg
Ezelwei
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
About 3km north of Zandvoort is Haar- a sandy, grassy and certainly breezy spot just Groot Olmen
playground
lems second beach, Bloemendaal aan Zee, an a few metres from the beach. Theres a lovely Poppy's Kop Koebocht Koekoeksbos

Bruid Van Het Eiland
undeveloped spot with a handful of restaur- kids playground, and its wooden bungalows Kraton
Lattendel
Haarlem

Starreberg
ants and cafs and uninterrupted beaches. Its sleep four. Ticks in the dunes are known to Parnassia
Starredel
De Oude
Schoen Spinnekoppen
Vlak playground
frequented by those looking for a semblance carry Lyme disease, so insect repellent is a Iepeboom

Oosterplas
Langerak
of peace and quiet away from the hustle and good idea. Hazenwei Dooie Bos Rietdel

Het

bustle of its bigger neighbour to the south. To reach the park, visitors centre and camp- playground
Butterkop
Vogelmeer Grote Tobbe
Manege
Zeeveld

The closest accommodation to Bloemen- ground, take bus 81 from Haarlem train station Schelpengat Hazenberg Tobbe
Eendenkop

daal is De Lakens (right), but Zandvoort is or cycle/drive the N200 towards Bloemendaal Doorngat observation Kleine
hut
bursting at the seams with accommodation. aan Zee. Liguster Ronde

Heilige Bos
Haarlems tourist office (p147) can point you De Pijp Wulpenkuil Land
Gleuf Lage
in the right direction. IJMUIDEN Ingang
De Lakens De Grote
Schapenkamp Lange
Helmberg
Zeeveld
Trommel
Kopje van
Bloemendaal
Trains link Zandvoort to Amsterdam Cen- %0255 / pop 7000 Parnassiaweg Vlak Lichtbakkeet

Het
traal Station three times hourly (4.70, 30 Just 5km up the coast from Haarlem at the Spartelmeer

Konijnenberg De Zeven
minutes) via Haarlem (2.10, 10 minutes). mouth of the Noordzeekanaal (North Sea

Bosjes

Kaasvlak Riet
Bokkendoorns
Canal) in the port town of IJmuiden is the Bloemendaal N200 Konijnenbos

Erebegraaf-
Kennemerduinen Nature Reserve huge North Sea locks. The largest is the Zuider- aan Zee
Groote Zijp
plaats playground

De Zandwaaier (%023-541 11 23; www.npzk.nl; Zeeweg, sluis (South Lock), some 400m long and 45m t' Wed Koevlak

Overveen; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, noon-5pm Tue-Sun wide. Few people realise that IJmuiden is also Zeeveld Kaai Bloemendaal
Nov-Mar), the parks visitors centre, has nature the largest fishing port in Western Europe, Mansdek
N200
displays and is a good source of information, home to the factory trawlers that plough the Poolsvlak
Ingang
Koevlak
Middenduin
with a range of detailed walking and cycling North Atlantic for weeks at a time. The huge Vrijlands
Overveen
maps. At the Koevlak and Parnassia entrances beach is a kite-flyers delight at low tide, but Noordduinen Berg
De Zandwaaier
To Haarlem
are car parks, from where paths lead off into unfortunately the view is marred by the steel Kamperberg
(3km)

the reserve. The paths snake through hilltop mills north of the locks.
copses of Corsican firs and valleys of low-lying
thickets; at the western edge you come to a Getting There & Around If you travel by road along the North Sea 9am adult/child 1.50/free), an enormous flea mar-
massive barrier of golden sand thats 1000 Its a thrill taking the hydrofoil (%020-639 22 Canal, youll have the surreal experience of ket with a carnival attitude. You can haggle
years old. 47; www.fastflyingferries.ml; adult/child return 8.30/4.85; passing huge, ocean-going ships that float with one of the 3000-plus vendors or just
The dunes sprout an extra layer of colour h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat & Sun) from be- well above road level. bask in the market chatter, live music and
in spring including desert orchids, the bright hind Amsterdam Centraal Station (25 min- exotic aromas. The admission price includes
rosettes of the century weed and the white- utes, hourly on the hour, half-hourly during BEVERWIJK entry to the Grand Bazaar, where the booths
blooming grass of Parnassus. Red foxes, fallow peak times) along the North Sea Canal to %0251 are larger and more professional, while the
deer and many species of birds are native to Velsen, 3km short of IJmuiden, where you Every weekend up to 80,000 visitors flock to Oosterse Markt is free.
the area; bats slumber in the parks abandoned catch Connexxion bus 82 or 83 into town. Its a the town of Beverwijk to visit the covered
bunkers before appearing at dusk. good idea to take a bicycle (an extra 4 return) Beverwijkse Bazaar (%26 26 26; www.beverwijkse Getting There & Away
Among main features, the Vogelmeer lake because things are spread out. Cycle from bazaar.nl; Montageweg 35; h8.30am-6pm Sat & Sun), Parking (free before 9am, 2 on Saturday, 3
has a bird observation hut above the south Velsen along the dyke towards the locks and go one of Europes largest ethnic markets. on Sunday) becomes a problem after 9.30am.
shore. The artificial lake t Wed teems with across the small and middle locks to the big Piled high are Arabian foods and spices, From Amsterdam drive the A9 towards Alk-
bathers in summer. Lookout points are scat- lock on the far side; along the way youll find Turkish rugs, garments and hand-crafted maar, exit at Beverwijk and follow signs to the
tered throughout with evocative names like an information centre, Noordzeekanaal in Zicht ornaments. bazaar; or take the train to Beverwijk (4.90,
Hazenberg (Hare Mountain). At 50m, the (North Sea Canal in Pictures; %51 91 12; Noordersluisweg 120; The liveliest of the three biggest halls is 30 minutes, five times hourly) and then bus
Kopje van Bloemendaal is the highest dune in the h1-5pm Mon, Wed & Sun). the Zwarte Markt (Black Market; before 9am free, after 76 (six minutes).
 154 N O O R D H O L L A N D Z a a n s e S c h a n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D M o n n i c k e n d a m 155

ZAANSE SCHANS hotel while Peter preferred a rickety wooden noon on Saturday, when the four mechanical
THE WATERLAND TICKET
%075 shack, now a shrine and the main reason for knights prance in the open wooden window
Making a good stab at re-creating a local vil- visiting this commuter town. If youre planning to day trip around the twice before retiring. If the tone rings true its
lage from the 17th and 18th centuries is the The Czaar Peterhuisje (%616 13 90; Krimp 23; Waterland Region, Monnickendam, Volen- because the bells were cast by master bellmaker
Zaanse Schans, an open-air museum, some adult/child 2/1; h1-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 1-5pm Sat & Sun dam and Marken by bus, consider purchas- Peter van de Ghein over 400 years ago.
10km northwest of Amsterdam. It features a Nov-Mar) is the gritty abode where Peter spent ing a Waterland Ticket (6). Available from Inside the clock tower youll find the His-
grand collection of historic structures from a week of his life in 1697. The Russian ruler bus drivers, it allows a days unlimited travel torisch Museum (%65 22 03; Noordeinde 4; adult/child
around the country, and theres a plethora of arrived incognito as sailor Peter Mikhailov to in the area north of Amsterdam (covered 1.50/0.50; h1-4pm May-Aug, 11am-4pm Mon-Sat & 1-
workshops, shops and raised wooden homes, garner support for Western forces against the by buses 110, 111 and 115) and its excel- 4pm Sun Apr, Sep & Oct), which displays various
all of which sit on a sweet little tract, complete Turks. Despite the hush-hush, news spread lent value. archaeological finds uncovered during the
with canals and tulip gardens. On a sunny and hordes of fans practically besieged the building of the Afsluitdijk (p175) and retells
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

day its a grand day out despite the inevitable cabin to get a glimpse of his tsarness. Peter the history of the Waterlandse Tram that
FLEVOLAND

crowds. The visitors centre (%616 82 18; www

FLEVOLAND
eventually slipped away to the wharves to Near the town of Landsmeer, 9km north served the Waterland region up until 1956.
.zaanseschans.nl; Schansend 1; h9am-5pm), at the far learn shipbuilding and swearing in Dutch, of Amsterdam, lies the nature reserve and The Gothic Grote Kerk (%65 06 00; De Zarken;
end of the village if youre coming by train, and became adept at both. recreational area Het Twiske. This is where ur- admission free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 2-4pm Sun-Mon Jun-
hands out the free maps youll need. Many Russians came here on a pilgrimage banites go for a calculated dose of nature: Aug), on the outskirts of town, is notable for
The most striking structures are the six in the 19th century to scrawl their graffiti. So well-marked walking trails, playgrounds and its triple nave, tower galleries and a dazzling
working windmills that stand along the riv- great was the PR value that Grand Duchess artificial but quite decent beaches, especially oak choir screen dating from the 16th century.
erbanks. One mill sells fat jars of its freshly Anna Paulowna (wife of Dutch King Wil- for families. A full one-third of the area is Its impossible not to focus on the enormous
ground mustard, while the others turn out lem II) commissioned a brick shelter over water and there are several hides for bird- organ (which is occasionally used for concerts)
pigments, oils, meal and sawed wood. All are the house, which finally emerged in Russian watchers on the lakeshores. Picnic spots are in the nave, a statement of higher glory and a
open for inspection, and its a treat to clamber orthodox style by the late 1800s. Theres a marked throughout for barbecuing. The visi- striking contrast with the spartan interior.
about the creaking works while the mills shake small exhibit about the tsar and his links to tors centre (%684 43 38; www.hettwiske.nl; Noorderlaak Other stars in the architecture department
in the North Sea breeze. the Netherlands, and marble tablets engraved 1; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) is next to include the Waag (Weigh-house) on the cen-
The cutest shops include an Albert Heijn with the monikers of royal visitors. Napoleon the canoe rental shop. tral canal. Built in 1669, this focal point of
colonial supermarket, a cheese maker and a stopped by and was apparently delighted. local economic life was equipped in 1905 with
popular clog factory with exhibits of pointy Getting There & Away grand Tuscan columns, a common trick of
old footwear. The engaging pewtersmith will Getting There & Away The best way to experience the Waterland the day to make it look much older and more
explain in several languages the story behind To get there from Amsterdam Centraal, take is by bicycle; pick up a rental in Amsterdam impressive. In de Bonten Os (Coloured Ox; Noordeinde
dozens of tiny figures while the soft metal sets the train toward Alkmaar and get off at Zaan- (p136) and explore at your leisure. Otherwise 26) is the only house thats left in its original
in the moulds. dam (2.40, 12 minutes, four hourly); from pick up a Waterland Ticket (above) and ride 17th-century state. In the days before proper
Near the visitors centre, the Zaans Museum the station, follow the signs. the buses. glass, the curious vertical shutters at street
(%616 28 62; adult/child 4.50/2.70; h9am-5pm) runs level were made to let in air and light.
temporary exhibitions of historical objects WATERLAND REGION MONNICKENDAM The old harbour along Haringburgwal is
of the Zaan river communities, often with a %075 %0299 / pop 10,105 famous for its fish smokehouses, and you can
dramatic or artsy twist such as audiovisual Time seems to move more slowly in this rural Monnickendam, which gained its name from poke your head inside for a glimpse of the
light shows. area about 9km north of Amsterdam, where the Benedictines who built a dam here, is a process. A bronze statue of a fisherman curing
When youve finished poking around the some farmers still carry scythes, the meadows sleepy town that can trace its roots back to eels on a spit stands where the central canal
village, a tour boat (adult/child 5/2.50, h11am-4pm turn a succulent shade of green and herons 1356. It originally became prosperous by mov- meets the harbour.
Tue-Sun Apr-Sep) does 45-minute spins on the stand motionless alongside watery furrows. ing goods inland towards Alkmaar but after
river Zaan several times a day. Despite a large shipping canal nearby, it re- the fishing industry died, it reinvented itself Activities
mains an important bird sanctuary, and pic- as a yachting resort, and today the beautiful As elsewhere on the IJsselmeer, large pleasure
Getting There & Away turesque for the mindful visitor. old trawlers mainly catch pleasure-seekers. boats are the thing in Monnickendam. In July
From Amsterdam Centraal Station (2.80, Broek in Waterland is a precious little burg in History still pervades the narrow lanes around and August you can feel the spray in your face
20 minutes, four times hourly), take the stop the heart of the Waterland region. Some 17th- the shipyards and fish smokehouses that have on day trips on an antique clipper. Reserve
train towards Alkmaar and get off at Koog and 18th-century houses are painted a par- been operating for hundreds of years. Smoked at Holland Zeilcharters (%65 23 51; www.sailing.nl;
Zaandijk its a well-signposted 400m walk ticular shade of grey, known as Broeker grijs eel remains a local delicacy. Eel is one of the Het Prooyen 4a; per person from 50, botter rental for up to
to Zaanse Schans. after the landscapes painted here by Monet few species still caught in bulk in the IJs- 8 persons from 360).
and other masters. The village church was selmeer. The harbour bristles with splendid old
ZAANDAM burned by the Spanish in 1573 but restored tjalken, botters and klippers, historic boats
%075 / pop 25,800 with a pretty stained-glass window recalling Sights available for hire (as are skippers if need be).
A stones throw from Zaanse Schans, Zaan- the tragic event. On the lakes edge stands The towns trademark building is the 15th- The botters can be hired out for a group from
dam has played home to two famous residents: the so-called Napoleonhuisje, a white pagoda century Speeltoren, an elegant, Italianate clock around 360 per day. The skys the limit at the
Russias Peter the Great and impressionist where the French emperor and the mayor tower and former town hall. The towers car- top end, eg three-masted clippers for as long
master Claude Monet. Claude stayed in a nice met in 1811. illon (glockenspiel) performs only at 11am and as you (and your wallet) see fit.
 156 N O O R D H O L L A N D V o l e n d a m & M a r k e n Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o atn elonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D E d a m 157

Smaller craft can be found at Bootvloot VOLENDAM & MARKEN Marken, one of the cosiest hotels around. And ture-perfect canals, youd be hard pressed
(%06-549 42657; Hemmeland beach; h10am-5.30pm %0299 / pop 20,700 its incredible to think that such a peaceful, not to enjoy a stroll around. And its quite
Apr-Oct) where two- to four-person sailboats Some 22km northeast of Amsterdam lies Vo- rural establishment in the heart of a former astounding that so many tourists prefer Vo-
cost 40/55 per half-day/day, with a 50 lendam, a former fishing port turned tour- fishing village is only 20 minutes from bus- lendam, only 2km away, unless Edams cheese
deposit. Its a 500m walk through the leafy ist trap. Its quaint all right, with its rows of tling Amsterdam. market is on, and then theyre like flies to,
Hemmeland recreation area northeast of wooden houses and locals who don traditional Hotel Spaander (%36 35 95; www.spaander.com; well, cheese.
Monnickendam marina just follow the sign dress for church and festive events, but the Haven 15-19, Volendam; r 105) The towns best hotel
Zeilbootverhuur. harbour is awash with souvenirs shops and has retained much of its atmosphere from the Information
cafs, and on weekends its even hard to think olden days, with traditional carved balconies Tourist office (%31 51 25; www.vvv-edam.nl;
Sleeping & Eating with all the people swarming about. Best es- and cushy rooms that have welcomed the Damplein; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Mar-Jun & Sep-Nov,
Hotel Lake Land (%65 37 51; Jachthaven 1; s/d 50/70) cape the hordes and explore some of the pretty likes of Picasso and Monet. Theres an indoor 10am-5pm Mon-Sat & 1-4pm Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-3pm
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Aside from a smattering of B&Bs, Lake Land streets behind the harbour for a glimpse of swimming pool too. Mon-Sat Dec-Feb) Housed in the splendid 18th-century
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
is all that Monnickendam offers in the way of what the old Volendam was really like. town hall. Pick up the good English-language booklet for
accommodation. Its situated on the marina Across Gouwzee Bay lies scenic Marken Eating self-guided tours, A Stroll Through Edam (2.50).
with harbour views and a restaurant, and with a small and determined population. It Seafood is the undisputed king in Volendam,
though fairly anonymous is convenient and was an isolated island in the Zuiderzee until and the main street (and harbour) is lined with Sights & Activities
comfortable. 1957 when a causeway linked up with the vendors offering smoked cod, eel and herring. In the 16th century, Willem van Oranje be-
Camping-Jachthaven Uitdam (%020-403 14 33; mainland, effectively turning it into a mu- Hotel Spaander (%36 35 95; Haven 15-19; mains stowed on Edam the right to hold a Kaas-
www.campinguitdam.nl; Zeedijk 2, Uitdam; camp sites/cabins/ seum-piece village. It still however manages 21-35; hlunch & dinner) This grand place does a markt (Cheese Market; h10am-12.30pm Wed Jul & Aug),
bungalows 15/39/66; hMar-Oct) Tucked away to exude a fishing-village vibe. splendid job with all things fishy, be it salmon, which was the towns economic anchor right
behind a dyke on the IJsselmeer, this well- stewed eel or bouillabaisse. The waiters fillet through to the 1920s. At its peak 250,000
equipped site has mooring facilities, beach, Information your fish right at your table, and the dining rounds of cheese were sold here every year.
laundry, snack bar and bicycle rental. Both Tourist office (%36 37 47; www.vvv-volendam.nl; area is fantastically quaint, with paintings On the western side of Kaasmarkt stands the
the basic cabins and bungalows sleep up to Zeestraat 37, Volendam; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Has by renowned artists covering every inch of old Kaaswaag (admission free; h10am-5pm Apr-Sep),
four, but the latter has a kitchen and hot and tonnes of information, including a brochure with a walking available wall space. the cheese weigh-house, which has a display
cold running water. Take the dyke road 5km tour of Volendam. The old harbour district is about 400m Old Dutch Restaurant Le Pompadour (%39 98 88; on the towns chief product. The cheese mar-
southeast of Monnickendam or bus 111. to the southeast. Haven 142; mains 11-28; hlunch & dinner) Even the ket is smaller than the one in Alkmaar but
De Roef (%65 18 60; Noordeinde 40; mains 15-25; name cant take away the old-world flair of a about as touristy. You can sample and buy
hdinner) The meat cuts like butter at this West- Sights & Activities place where faded yellow light falls from Art some of the cheesy stuff at Gestam (%37 15
ern-style steakhouse where Argentine tender- The Volendams Museum (%36 92 58; Zeestraat 41, Deco lamps. Theres really only one dish to 30; Voorhaven 125; h10am-4pm Wed & Fri), or stop
loin or sea bass is prepared over charcoal flames. Volendam; adult/child 2/1.25; h10am-5pm mid-MarOct) try in these parts, and this place does it well; in at Edammer Kaaswinkel (%37 16 83; cnr Spui &
Half the fun is watching dinner approach your is a must for cigar aficionados. Local cul- smoked eel IJsselmeer style. Prinsenstraat) and pick up a round with which
table sizzling atop a red-hot grill. ture is covered with traditional costumes, to disguise any cheap wine served to guests
t Markerveerhuis (%65 57 69; Brugstraat 6; mains prints, paintings of harbour scenes and even Getting There & Around back home.
10-15; hlunch & dinner) This is easily the best a cramped ships sleeping quarters, but this Connexxion bus 110 runs between Volen- The 15th-century Grote Kerk (admission free;
place to dine on traditional Dutch fare while place is really devoted to lovers of cheap ci- dam and Amsterdam via Monnickendam h1-5pm Apr-Sep) has an unfortunate past
enjoying the comings and goings in Monnick- gars: some 11 million bands are plastered on (30 minutes) and Edam (12 minutes) every that stands witness to the vagaries of Dutch
endams harbour. Dutch folk music emanates its walls. 30 minutes until 1.30am. Bus 111 goes from weather. The stained-glass windows bear-
from the stage at weekends. In Marken, the colourful Kerkbuurt Amsterdam via Monnickendam to Marken ing coats of arms and historical scenes were
Stands selling smoked eel and other fruits of is the most authentic area, with tarred or (30 minutes, half-hourly). added after 1602, when the church burned to
the sea are clustered around the old harbour painted houses raised on pilings to escape The Marken Express ferry (adult/child one way 4/3, a crisp after a lightning strike. Its tower can be
just follow your nose. the Zuiderzee floods. A row of eel-smok- return 6.50/3.50; h10.30am-6pm Mar-Sep) makes climbed (admission 2) for views of the sur-
ing houses here has been converted to the the 45-minute crossing from Volendam to rounds. The taller Speeltoren, leaning slightly
Getting There & Around Marker Museum (%60 19 04; Kerkbuurt 44, Marken; Marken every half hour. In Volendam, the over Kleine Kerkstraat about 100m further
Connexxion bus 111 (30 minutes, three to adult/child 2.50/1.25; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm ferry leaves from the docks at Havendijkje. south, is all that remains of the 15th-century
four times an hour) links the centre of Mon- Sun Apr-Oct), which delves into the islands his- Kleine Kerk.
nickendam to Amsterdam Centraal Station, tory and includes the re-created interior of a EDAM The Edams Museum (%37 24 31; Damplein 8; adult/
harbour side, as does bus 115 (twice hourly); fishermans home, with a wealth of personal %0299 / pop 7400 child 3/1; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun) has
the 111 continues on to Marken (12 minutes, odds and ends. Once a renowned whaling port in its 17th- a so-so collection of old furnishings, porcelain
hourly). Buses 110 and 114 go north to Volen- century heyday it had 33 shipyards that built and silverware, spread over three cramped
dam (seven minutes) and Edam (10 minutes), Sleeping the fleet of legendary admiral Michiel de floors. Its best known for its floating cellar, a
but only 114 continues on to Hoorn (30 to 45 oHof Van Marken (%60 13 00; www.hofvan Ruijter this scenic little town is another remarkable pantry that rises and falls with the
minutes, twice hourly). marken.nl; Buurt II, 15, Marken; r from 80) It would be of Noord Hollands hidden gems. With its rivers swell to reduce stress on the structure
Ber Koning (%65 12 67; Noordeinde 12) rents out a hard heart that would resist the big beds, old shipping warehouses, quiet cobblestone above. The ornate brick structure is Edams
bicycles. fluffy pillows and heavenly duvets at Hof Van streets, hand-operated drawbridges, and pic- oldest, dating from 1530.


158 N O O R D H O L L A N D E d a m Book accommodation
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EDAM


0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
STAYING IN STYLE

To Hoorn
A B C D

(20km) For such a small town, Edam manages to provide some remarkably good accommodation and
4 eating options.

Matt
Dam Hotel (%37 17 66; www.damhotel.nl; Keizersgracht 1; s/d 59.50/110) In the very heart of the

hij
Nieu

s
1 city, the boutique Dam Hotel is created with tender loving care. Rooms are individually decorated

Nie
w V

Gro
Tinx
with genuine and new antiques, but the unbridled theme throughout is Romance. Some rooms

uw

en
aart

gr

land
Vaa
N247 are a little on the small side, but this is counterbalanced by huge beds and thoroughly modern

je

rtje
bathrooms. Its restaurant (mains around 20; open for lunch and dinner) serves classic French

Grote Ke
cuisine in silver-service surroundings, and forecourt diners enjoy views of the old town hall.
rweg

De Fortuna (%37 16 71; www.fortuna-edam.nl; Spuistraat 3; s/d from 65/90) Another gem, this place
NOORD HOLLAND &

rk Str

NOORD HOLLAND &

huize

might have stood model for an old Dutch painting. Its homy rooms, which overlook one of Edams
rhaven
FLEVOLAND

Achte

FLEVOLAND
Oost

many canals, are stuffed with quilts and little perks like coffee and tea facilities. The bathrooms
Achterh
aven are on the tiny side but they have everything you need. Downstairs in the restaurant (mains 20;

2 5
open for lunch and dinner), elaborate French dishes are served in a suitably Dutch arena: oil
6 Prins pad To Strandbad Camp Site
ts
Nijverhe Bierkade Mauri & Boat Tours (2km)
id Str paintings, large bay windows and leather seats buffed shiny over the years. The ever-changing
Prinsen

Breestr
menu features plenty of fish and meat, along with a smattering of wild game, and the wine list
str

2 aven
would be hard to get through in a week.
Voorh
11
Kleine Kerkstr Spui
Dampl orhaven 3
Sights

7
racht
Vo INFORMATION makes jaunts to Volendam (10 minutes, once
Keizersg Stadhuis Tourist Office......................1 C3
8 1 or twice an hour). Bicycles can be rented at Ton Before beginning your exploration of the city,
Linger

Hoog

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tweewielers (%37 19 22; Schepenmakersdijk 6). consider purchasing a copy of the Walking
rweg

Wijngaardsgr

Sp

Edams Museum...................2 C2
3 Tour of the Town among the Historic Buildings
str
uis
Zijde

Hav
en aven Gestam................................3 C3
t

we h
huize

Nie
u we Nieu
en
Grotekerk.............................4
Kaasmarkt............................5
B1
B2
ALKMAAR booklet (2) from the tourist office. It covers
Mark
Oost

Linger Z
ijde 9 Het Kaaswaag............................6 B2 %072 / pop 93,000 historical buildings like the Renaissance town
Speeltoren (Tower)..............7 B3
If ever there was a cheese town, Alkmaar is hall in extensive detail.

SLEEPING it. Come Friday, its picturesque ringed centre Built as a chapel in the 14th century, the
uiten

g
Bult Gev ang e

Schepenmakersdijk stin Dam Hotel...........................8 C3 is awash with tourists, all eager to catch a Waaggebouw was pressed into service as a
N247 rve
nde De Fortuna..........................9 C3
Westerb

13 Baa glimpse of the citys famous cheese market. weigh-house two centuries later. This hand-
EATING
10
gel Caf Gevangenpoort.......(see 10) But the city is more than just a purveyor some building houses the tourist office and
sin
np o
in

eeg
h La Galera...........................10 C4 of curdled milk. It holds a special place upstairs, the Hollands Kaasmuseum (Dutch Cheese
Kle

rst
Wil
ort

4 Ve
in Dutch hearts as the first town, in 1573, Museum; %511 42 84; adult/child 2.50/1.50; h10am-4pm,
st

liam

SHOPPING
Edammer Kaaswinkel.........11 B3 to repel occupying Spanish troops; locals Mon-Sat Apr-Oct), a reverential display of cheese-
Pon

12 Singel
weg
tstr

opened the locks and flooded the area with making utensils, photos and a curious stock of
r
ste

TRANSPORT
ee

Bus Station........................12 A4 sea water, forcing the perplexed invaders to paintings by 16th-century female artists.
me

To Monnickendam (9km);
rg

Ton Tweewielers................13 B4
The Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum; %511
Bu

Amsterdam (23km) To Volendam (2km)

retreat. The victory won the town weigh-
ing rights, which laid the foundation for its 07 37; www.stedelijkmuseumalkmaar.nl; Canadaplein 1; adult/
Tours base for boat trips into the IJsselmeer the cheese market. child 4.50/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) is
The tourist office organises 1-hour boat tours docks are right outside the camp site. overlooked by many visitors who dont get past
(3; hJul & Aug) on tuindersvelts (small, open- La Galera (%37 19 71; Gevangenpoortsteeg 3; mains Orientation & Information the cheese market. This is a shame because its
topped boats) in summer, weather permitting. 6-12; hlunch & dinner) If youre not eating at De The town centre is focused on Waagplein, the collection of oil paintings by Dutch masters,
Departure is from the Strandbad Edam camp Fortuna or the Dam Hotel then La Galera, main square where the famous cheese market including impressive life-sized portraits of
site (below). You can also rent a boat via the with its standard pizzas and pasta, will have is held. Langestraat is a pedestrianised shop- Alkmaar nobles, is alone worth the entry fee.
tourist office from about 450 per day. to suffice. ping street with charming restaurants and Other works show Alkmaar in postGolden
Caf de Gevangenpoort (%37 42 52; Gevangenpoort- bars around the Waag and the quay named Age decline; sombre scenes of almswomen
Sleeping & Eating steeg 1) Next door to La Galera, this pub has Bierkade. The pretty, canal-bound centre is caring for the poor recall how the churchs
In addition to the places reviewed here, the occasional live music and friendly staff. 500m southeast of the train station. role grew as trade declined. The few modern
tourist office has a list of private accommoda- Library (%51 5 66 44; Gasthuisstraat 2; internet per hr works on display include Charley Toorops
tion and farm stays from 20 per person. Getting There & Around 1.50; h11am-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat) Has rows odd oil painting of the Alkmaar cheese mar-
Strandbad Edam (%37 19 94; www.campingstrand Connexxion bus 110 stops twice an hour at of internet terminals. ket; her cheese bearers with grotesque features
bad.nl; Zeevangszeedijk 7a; per person/tent 3.10/4.55; the bus station and continues to Voldendam Tourist office (%511 42 84; www.vvvalkmaar.nl; remain controversial.
hApr-Sep) This sprawling seaside camp site has (five minutes), Monnickendam (25 minutes) Waagplein 2; h10am-5.30pm) In the Waaggebouw, the The Grote Kerk (admission Jun-Aug 4, Sep-May
a swimming beach, laundry and restaurant. and Amsterdam (40 minutes). Bus 114 travels towering old weigh-house. Staff will book accommodation 2.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) will remind visitors that
Its usually overrun but remains a convenient to Hoorn (25 minutes, twice hourly), and 113 for 2.50. Noord Holland has a particularly high concen-


160 N O O R D H O L L A N D A l k m a a r Book accommodation

w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
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w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D A l k m a a r 161

0 400 m
ALKMAAR 0 0.2 mi
NOWHERES AS CHEESY AS HERE

Tu To Den
Sc ins Huiswaarderpl
ha
rlo
A tr ge
l B Helder Tesselsebrug C D Cheese is a big thing in the Netherlands; anyone whos breakfasted in a B&B or entered a supermar-
To Train & Bus Stations (500m); sin (42km)
Z
aag

r
Hotel Stad en Land (500m); ENTERTAINMENT ket can tell you this. But in Noord Hollands Schiereiland, cheese is a very, very serious business.

st e
mo
Camping Alkmaar (1.5km) len

e
Atlantis..................................15 B2

Ge
str
Alkmaars traditional cheese market (Waagplein; h10am-noon Fri Apr-Sep) goes back to the 17th

Hoornse

eg
No
Berger- Theater de Vest.....................(see 5)

sew
o
rt N

rd
1 g hout uu oo century. Every Friday morning around 30,000kg of waxed rounds of Gouda, Edam and Leiden kaas

er
we

Frie
nb rd

ka
ter ole SHOPPING

r
Paardenmarkt ho

st

de
es (cheese) are ceremoniously stacked on Waagplein, and soon the porters appear in their colourful
Ze

M Ko lla

ter
De Tromp Kaaswinkel............16 C2
ven

W r a ch t Fri
ge l g os nin nd ese
huiz

str
7 n gsw s

ern
Si we hats, ready to spring into action. The dealers (looking official in white smocks) insert a hollow

O
Kan

ian

eg g

oi
Pat
aalk
en

ev
TRANSPORT

ast

tr
Ga 5 Doelen- ade

aa
rod to extract a cheese sample and go into taste-test mode, sniffing and crumbling to check fat

lens
str sthu Ringersbrug

Seb
Canal Boat Dock....................17 C2
t

rs
Ge

Canadapl
es

is veld Kan

tr
Doe
1 - Ge
Ge

aal
es t

K de
m pte and moisture content. This is one of the few Dutch towns where the old cheese guilds still oper-
erk
ers

Nie
pl

Kon
ate, and the porters bright green, red and yellow hats denote which company they belong to.
i

uw
ng
NOORD HOLLAND &

ing
gstr

NOORD HOLLAND &

3 eslo str
el

Ke ot 10 Hofpl M
Hoo a rkt
rks
tr str Dijk Once deals are struck the porters whisk the cheeses on wooden sledges to the old cheese scale

Voor d am
Ma Friesebrug
FLEVOLAND

am

FLEVOLAND
gda 4
14 in a stride reminiscent of someone hurrying to the toilet. Its primarily for show: nowadays the
Lindeg

tr

len

ltuin
terd
ens
Clarisse

He 6 ens 9
Na tr
Kennemers

out

ul

Koo
modern dairy combines have a lock on the cheese trade. Still, as living relics go its a spectacle

Ach
16

tr
ssa Spa To Hoorn
r

Laa La

ers
Ra
Sch

ula ng 2 njaa

est

Lin t Waagplein nd (27km)

nbuurt

2 an est rdstr

ht
deg 15 Bre not to be missed, and its fun to see so many people excited about cheese.
bb

11 Zijd er

W
Ou r

Ac
r sd

il
ed am
Kre

Victorie-

utt
8

ag
de str ijk

Ho
Gr

ew
park
glo Along with its own cheese market, Edam and the surrounding regions has a centuries-
12 17 Lutt
ingel

ik O
Pay

eg
udo

swal
nt
str Fnid rp old reputation as a producer of toothsome cheese. About 8km south of Edam, there are several

Mie
str

sen

r
ter

lst
INFORMATION O 13
der

d
ke
cheese farms that can be visited daily from 8.30am to 6pm (admission free): Irene Hoeve, Jacobs
Bo

ud Vis

Eilan
He
Rid

ATM.........................................1 B1 Ge eG La ma
de r at rkt
Library...................................(see 5) mp
te Ve
Hoeve (both on Hoogedijk) and Alida Hoeve (on Zaddeweg). Cheese making is a fascinating art,
Tourist Office..........................2 C2 Ba rdr
Nieuwland

He
but prepare for a pretty cheesy experience as presenters in traditional duds run through their
r

on
fst

an

de
ken ilig
Groot

slo
Ho

rka
oo lan

ot rd
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES La d well-oiled routine before referring you to the shop.
Bloemstr

Bie
at
Grote Kerk...............................3 B2 Lim
me
Hollands Kaasmuseum...........(see 2) EATING rho
ek
Nationaal Biermuseum.............4 C2 Henry's Grand Caf...................9 C2
eg

Stedelijk Museum.....................5 B1 Het Hof van Alkmaar................10 B2 Oude Gr No

atw

3 Stad en Land is a good choice for those mak- toria bass in chilli-coconut sauce, but should
str

Town Hall................................6 B2 Oude Gr or

Indonesisch Restaurant Deli.....11 C2 dh
tra

ma

oll
ers

Waaggebouw........................(see 2) Patisserie Culinaire...................12 C2 ing a short, overnight visit to Alkmaar. Of the your palate desire something simpler at lunch,
Em

an
ds
em

Wild Sc
tr
eman he Vo Ka
four rooms those at the rear are the quietest there are chicken satays and sandwiches.
els
nn

str lph na
SLEEPING DRINKING or
nd
Ke

oe m al
o

Amrath Hotel...........................7 A1 Caf Lindeboom......................13 C2 Baa k ee

Indonesisch Restaurant Deli (%515 40 82; Mient 8;
eV

nsin
gel
r and overlook a little pond.
Kort

Anno 1609..............................8 C2 Proeflokaal 't Apothekertje.......14 C2 To Amsterdam

(40km)
Camping Alkmaar (%511 69 24; www.camping mains 13-27; hdinner, closed Mon & Tue) This place
alkmaar.nl; Bergerweg 201; camp site 22, cabins 35) This site offers good-value dishes such as nasi goreng
tration of church organs. The most famous one Sleeping lies in a pleasant copse convenient to the ring as well as elaborate rijsttafels. Its been around
here is the small Swallow Organ in the north The tourist office has a list of private rooms road, 1km west of the train station. Tent sites are for ages, comes highly recommended and has
ambulatory, one of the countrys oldest (1511). from about 20 per person. sheltered and wooden cabins sleep two persons. air-con.
The huge beast in the nave was designed by oAnno 1609 (%511 61 11; www.anno1609 Take bus 160 to Sportpark (10 minutes).
Jacob van Campen, a leading organ-maker in .nl; Luttik Oudorp 110; d 225) It doesnt get much Drinking
the 16th century. Organ recitals take place from more romantic than this. The sole suite of this Eating Proeflokaal t Apothekertje (%512 41 07; Waagplein 16)
noon to 12.30pm and 1pm to 1.30pm June to boutique B&B (breakfast is served in the din- Alkmaar has a fine variety of restaurants and Of the bars and brown cafs that hug the north
August (included in admission) and Wednes- ing room or on the small balcony at the back) cafs. side of Waagplein, this is the most pleasant to
day evenings in July and August (6). extends over an entire floor of a beautifully Patisserie Culinaire (%511 29 58; Houttil 13; mains grab a relaxing drink in. Its an old-style drink-
Housed in the attractive old De Boom restored 17th-century granary overlooking 5-16; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat) This buzzing artsy ing hole done up like a chemists shop.
brewery, the Nationaal Biermuseum (%511 38 one of the citys peaceful canals. The furnish- caf offers freshly made filled baguettes, open Caf Lindeboom (%512 17 43; Verdronkenoord 114)
01; Houttil 1; adult/child 3.50/1.75; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, ings ooze exclusivity a freestanding French sandwiches, quiche and big salads that spill Over by the old fish market is this cosy bar
1-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 1-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) has a bath, designer chandeliers, polished parquet off your plate. Its also the perfect spot to sip where talkative locals live it up on the (hope-
decent collection of beer-making equipment and lead-light windows and its the soul of a coffee at the sidewalk tables and watch the fully) sunny canal terrace.
and wax dummies showing how the suds were discretion: outside theres no hint that this world go by.
made. The rare video of Dutch beer commer- listed monument is even a hotel. Henrys Grand Caf (%511 32 83; Houttil 34; mains Entertainment
cials since the 1950s will have you in stiches. Amrath Hotel (%518 61 86; www.amrathhotelalkmaar 12-20; hlunch & dinner) A convivial place serv- Alkmaar has a lively arts scene pick up a
Choose from 30 beers (eight on draught) in .nl; Geestersingel 15; s/d from 105/115; n) Only a short ing soups, salads, sandwiches and set meals copy of the monthly Alkmaar Agenda (free)
the friendly bar after your tour. walk from the centre is this new hotel, part of including pork or chicken satay, backed up from the tourist office to see whats on.
the Best Western chain. Its rooms are spacious by a good range of beers. Its lunch menu is Theater De Vest (%548 99 99; www.theaterdevest.nl;
Tours and thoroughly modern, and the entire outfit much easier on the wallet. Canadaplein 2) The centre for Alkmaars highbrow
Departing from Mient near the Waag are is geared to the business crowd. Specials are Het Hof van Alkmaar (%512 12 12; Hof van Sonoy 1; entertainment, De Vest runs the gamut from
45-minute tours (%511 77 50; adult/child 4.70/3.20; handed out on a regular basis. mains 15-20; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Hof van Alk- traditional plays and puppet shows to avant-
h11am-5pm Mon-Sat May-Aug) with multilingual Hotel Stad en Land (%512 39 11; www.stadenland maar occupies a former 15th-century nunnery garde dance. In summer Canadaplein turns
commentary. During cheese-market season .com; Stationsweg 92; s/d 52.50/75) Close to the train with a rustic dining room overlooking the into a stage for the performing arts festival
boats go every 20 minutes from 9.30am. station with slightly dated yet comfy rooms, hofje. The menu is full of inventions like Vic- Zomer op het plein (Summer on the square).
 162 N O O R D H O L L A N D B r o e k o p L a n g e d i j k www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D H o o r n 163

Atlantis (%511 83 90; www.atlantispodium.nl; Breed- bid on the old auction clock. Its entertain- blood that once flowed from the gallows. On Add a visit to the Zuiderzeemuseum (p164)
straat 33) Atlantis is the downtown music club, ing, instructive and above all easy to get car- the northeastern side of the square its impos- in Enkhuizen and the whole package costs
always with a fresh and unpredictable pro- ried away, so remember how many tomatoes sible to overlook the Waag, the 17th-century 28/22.30.
gramme. Expect anything from a rave one or bunches of broccoli you can realistically weigh-house thats home to De Waag Caf- The scenic harbour is lined by stately ga-
night to a pop quiz the next (entry normally consume. Restaurant. bled houses. Overshadowing them all is the
3 to 10). The Creatif Centrum upstairs The museum also runs 45-minute boat On the square also stands the former seat massive Hoofdtoren (1532), a defensive gate
offers arts courses, and the Tooncaf, also tours around the dozens of tiny island plots of the Staten-College (States Council), the body that now hosts a bar and restaurant. The tiny
upstairs, runs exhibitions. nearby that once supplied the auction with that once governed seven towns in North Hol- belfry was an afterthought.
regular greens. Combination tickets for mu- land (Alkmaar, Hoorn, Enkhuizen, Medem-
Shopping seum and boat cost adult/child 9.95/5.50. blik, Edam, Monnickendam and Purmerend). Sleeping
De Tromp Kaaswinkel (%511 34 22; Magdalenenstraat From Amsterdam, take the A9 to Alkmaar Its wedding-cake faade bears the coat of Accommodation is not a high point in Hoorn,
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

11) Theres not much else to buy in Alkmaar and N25 to Heerhugowaard, exiting for Broek arms of Oranje-Nassau, the Dutch-German so you may be better off just spending the day
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
except cheese, and this place stocks an ex- op Langedijk. By train, go to Alkmaar (6.40, royal dynasty that the Dutch named as rulers here. The tourist office does however have a
cellent range of Dutch and French varieties. 45 minutes, four times hourly) and change to when Napoleon left Holland. It now houses list of B&Bs from around 20 per person.
Youll be amazed at how much of the yellow bus 155 (20 minutes, twice hourly). the Westfries Museum (%28 00 28; www.wfm.nl; Rode Hotel de Keizerskroon (%21 27 17; www.keizers
stuff can be stored in such a small shop. Steen; adult/child 3.50/1.50; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm kroonhoorn.nl; Breed 33; s/d 62.50/75) Very much in
HOORN Sat & Sun), an absorbing museum with a rich the middle of things, this 25-room hotel-
Getting There & Away %0229 / pop 65,500 collection of historical paintings so rich that restaurant has rooms that are reasonably
Trains to/from Alkmaar: With a string of museums and a busy harbour, it was the target of art theft in 2005. Some 20 modern and enticing, and quite brown. Its
Hoorn attracts both weekend tourists and paintings were stolen, but fortunately the four insulated windows afford a view of the bus-
Destination Price Duration Frequency skippers alike. It was once the capital of West large group portraits of prominent schutters tling market streets below.
() (min) (per hr) Friesland and, thanks to the presence of the (civic guards) by Jan A Rotius (162466) were Hotel de Magneet (%21 50 21; hoteldemagneet@
Dutch merchant fleet, a mighty trading city. left in peace. Rotius himself can be seen at planet.nl; Kleine Oost 5D; s/d from 62/77) This family-
Amsterdam 6.30 30-40 4 As a member of the league of Seven Cities, it the far right in one scene. The rear courtyard run guesthouse lies in a quiet street just east
Den Helder 6.70 35 2 helped free the country from the Spanish who has a number of curious stone tablets from of the old centre, with a bar and restaurant.
Enkhuizen 6.70 50 2 occupied the town in 1569. local faades. Rooms are large by Dutch standards, but not
Hoorn 4.30 25 2 Its most famous son, explorer Willem The Affiche Museum (Dutch Poster Museum; %29 particularly exciting and low on atmosphere.
Schoutens, named South Americas storm- 98 46; Grote Oost 2-4; adult/child 3.50/1.75; h11-5pm The proximity to the coastal paths makes the
The station has left-luggage lockers and lashed tip Cape Horn after his home Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) has an extensive col- hotel popular with cyclists clubs.
ATMs. town in 1616. lection including every single poster made
for the annual Holland Festival since 1948. Eating
Getting Around Orientation & Information Youll also find contemporary artwork from De Waag Caf-Restaurant (%21 51 95; Rode Steen 8;
Connexxion buses 10, 22 and 127 connect the The old quarter begins about 1km southwest big-name designers like Anthon Beeke and mains 16-30; hlunch & dinner) With pride of place
train station to Kanaalkade (five minutes). of the train station. From the station, walk Gert Dumbar (of Studio Dumbar fame). Its on the main square in the stunning Waag
Theres a bicycle shop (%511 79 07) at the train south along broad Veemarkt to Gedempte virtually opposite the old weigh-house. building, this restaurant is hard to beat. The
station, but dont bother renting on cheese Turfhaven, turn right and take the first left Housed in two old cheese warehouses, the international menu is heavily loaded with
market day as therere too many people on the into Grote Noord, the pedestrianised shop- Museum of the 20th Century (%21 40 01; Bierkade 4; Dutch staples, and when the sun comes
streets, and its likely to be nicked. ping street. At the end is the scenic main adult/child 4/2 h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) out theres no better place to be than on De
square, Rode Steen, and the harbour area is is devoted mainly to household goods and Waags terrace.
BROEK OP LANGEDIJK a stones throw further south, down Grote modern inventions. Of the few eye-openers Brasserie Bontekoe (%21 93 09; Nieuwendam 1;
%0226 Havensteeg. there are a 1964 Philips mainframe computer mains 10-20; hlunch & dinner Wed-Sat) This cosy,
In the town of Broek op Langedijk, about Library (Wisselstraat 8; internet per hr 02.80; h1- a clunky bookcase-sized unit with a whole terraced brown caf enjoys a strategic view
8km northeast of Alkmaar, the Museum Broeker 8.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 1-5pm Tue & Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) 1KB of memory and a 30-sq-metre scale of canals and marina. Theres an extensive
Veiling (Museum Broeker Auction; % 31 38 07; www Has internet access. maquette (model) of Hoorn in 1650, with sandwich menu alongside lamb, pork and
.broekerveiling.nl; Broek op Langedijk; adult/child 6.25/3.65; Tourist office (%072-511 42 84; www.vvvhoorn.nl; taped commentary in several languages. chicken dishes, and naturally a mystery catch
h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, till 9.30pm Thu, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Veemarkt 4; h1-6pm Mon, 9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, The Museum Stoomtram (%21 48 62; www of the day option.
Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Jun, 9.30am-5pm Sat) About 250m south of the train station; .museumstoomtram.nl; adult/child return 17/12.80; h11am Hendrickje Stoffels (%21 04 17; Oude Doelenkade
Sep & Oct) bills itself as the oldest sail-through will book accommodation for a 2.50 fee. Tue-Sat mid-AprOct & Mon Jul & Aug, Sat & Sun Nov, Dec & 3-5; set menu 25-31; hdinner, closed Wed-Thu) With
vegetable auction. Only when youve entered beginning of Apr) isnt a museum in the traditional a styled interior, progressive French and fish
the auction hall a stunning Art Deco build- Sights & Activities sense but rather a historic locomotive that dishes, and a listing in Lekker six years in a
ing on the water does it become clear how Hoorns heyday as a shipping centre is long puffs an hour between Hoorn station and row, Hendrickje Stoffels is sure to please.
this works. gone, but the imposing statue of Jan Peterszoon Medemblik. You can combine the train and Vishandel Leen Parlevliet (rolls from 3, meals from
The show begins as barges laden with bas- Coen, founder of the Dutch East India Com- boat for a route called the Historic Triangle: 6; h10am-7pm) Next to the Hoofdtoren at the
kets of produce float in beneath the feet of pany, still watches over the Rode Steen (Red first from Hoorn to Medemblik by train and harbour, this small glass pod sells wonderful
the auctioneer, who encourages visitors to Stone or Fortress), the square named for the then back by boat and train via Enkhuizen. seafood rolls and bigger seafood meals. Munch
 164 N O O R D H O L L A N D E n k h u i z e n www.lonelyplanet.com Book
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and admire the graceful tall ships moored at Information displays. Plan a half-day for an unhurried visit Appartement Hotel Driebanen (%31 61 81; www
the docks. Library (%31 24 92; Kwakespad 3; internet per hr 3; to both sections. .hoteldriebanen.com; Driebanen 59; s/d from 65/85) Drie-
Open-air markets are held on Wednesday h1.30-9pm Mon & Fri, 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Wed, 10am- The Buitenmuseum is captivating. Opened banen is a tranquil canalside guesthouse with
(June to August) and Saturday (year round) noon Thu & Sat) About 500m west along Westerstraat in 1983, it was carefully assembled from an old-fashioned look and feel to it, right
along Breed. turn right into the canalside road Kwakespad. houses, farms and sheds trucked in from down to the host who is big on personal wel-
Tourist office (%31 31 64; www.vvvenkhuizen.nl; around the region to show Zuiderzee life as comes, and is a goldmine of local information.
Shopping Tussen Twee Havens 1; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, it was from 1880 to 1932. Every conceivable Rooms are cheerful and bright.
Delikaas (%21 03 52; Breed 38) This specialist ven- closed Sat Nov-Mar) Just east of the train station; sells detail has been thought of, from the fence- Camping Enkhuizer Zand (%31 72 89; www
dor in an ornate colonial-style building is an ferry tickets in summer and a self-guided tour booklet in top decorations and choice of shrubbery to .campingenkhuizerzand.nl; Kooizandweg 4; camp sites 21.50;
excellent place to buy cheese, freshly roasted English (1.50). the entire layout of villages, and the look and hApr-Sep) Next to the Zuiderzeemuseum, this
nuts, dried meats and wine. feel is certainly authentic. An illustrated guide popular site is a model of self-sufficiency with
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Sights & Activities (in English), included in the ticket price, is an indoor pool, sandy beaches, tennis courts
Getting There & Around
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
Moving east along Westerstraat youll spy the an essential companion on your tour of the and grocery.
Regular train services to/from Hoorn include remarkable Westerkerk, a 15th-century Gothic entire museum.
the following: church with a removable wooden belfry. The Inhabitants wear traditional dress, and there Eating
ornate choir screen and imposing pulpit are are real shops such as a bakery, a chemist and De Brasserie (%32 28 58; Westerstraat 164; light meals
Destination Price Duration Frequency worth a look. Opposite the church is the Wees- a sweet shop. Workshops run demonstrations 8-10; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun) With its own turret,
() (min) (per hr) huis, a 17th-century orphanage with a sugary, throughout the day. Though varying in char- roof-top terrace overlooking a quiet canal,
curlicued portal. acter, the displays join seamlessly: lime kilns and pavement seating, this chilled teahouse is
Alkmaar 4.30 25 2 At the other end of Westerstraat stands the from Akersloot stand a few metres from Zuid- an excellent choice for coffee and cake in the
Amsterdam 6.80 40 2 16th-century Waag (weigh-house) on the old ende and its row of Monnickendam houses, warmer months. When its cold, take a pew
Enkhuizen 3.40 22 2-4 cheese market, and nearby the classical town originally built outside the dykes. Dont miss indoors by a window and watch the Dutch
hall, modelled after the Amsterdam town hall the Urk quarter, raised to simulate the island ignore the weather.
The bus station is right outside Hoorn train that once stood on the Dam. You can peek town before the Noordoostpolder was drained. Restaurant De Boei (%31 42 80; Havenweg 5; mains
station. Connexxion bus 135 goes twice through the windows at the lavish Gobelins For a special postmark, drop your letters at the around 20; hlunch & dinner Mar-Oct) Occupying a
hourly to Den Helder (a one-hour ride) and and tapestries, but its closed to the public. old post office from Den Oever. The Marker peaceful corner near the harbour, De Boei is a
Leeuwarden (two hours, change buses at Den Between the Buitenhaven and the Oude Haven is a copy of the harbour built in 1830 on place to head for superfluous amounts of food,
Oever). Connexxion bus 114 serves Edam (30 Haven, the Drommedaris was built as a defence what was then the island of Marken. but in this case quantity equals quality. Fish of
minutes, twice hourly). tower as part of the 16th-cetury town walls. Exit at the rear and walk 300m to reach the course is a good option in these parts.
Hire your two-wheelers at the bicycle shop Once a formidable prison, it now serves as an Binnenmuseum, which occupies a museum Restaurant de Drie Haringhe (%31 86 10; Dijk 28;
(%21 70 96) at Hoorn train station. elevated meeting hall. Its clock-tower carillon complex adjoining the Peperhuis, the former mains 21-25; hlunch & dinner, closed Tue) This upmar-
still tinkles a playful tune on the hour. home and warehouse of a Dutch shipping ket locale excels in Dutch and French-inspired
ENKHUIZEN The old harbour is chock-a-block with merchant. The displays include a fine ship- cuisine, and has been receiving rave reviews for
%0228 / pop 17,000 polished schooners, smacks and tjalks of a ping hall: paintings, prints and other materials years. Though next to a main street, the walled
Enkhuizen may be a small, quaint town in slower era, some of which are available for hire relating the rise and fall of the fishing industry, garden is an oasis of calm at mealtimes.
the present day but during the Golden Age its (p287). More modest skippers can hire kayaks, and the construction of the dykes. Here too are Dikke Mik (%31 64 04; HJ Schimmelstraat 10; mains
strategic harbour sheltered the Dutch merchant canoes and electric boats at De Waterspiegel cultural artefacts such as regional costumes, 10-16; hlunch & dinner) In warm weather the
fleet. It slipped into relative obscurity in the (%31 74 56; www.dewaterspiegel.com; Olifantsteiger 3; porcelain, silver, and jewellery that indicate the quay fills with aromas of spare ribs, mixed
late 17th century but now possesses one of the kayaks/canoes/electric boats per hr 5/7/15), mainly for extent of Hollands riches at the time. grill, Mexican chicken and a fish stew thatll
largest fleets on the IJsselmeer of recreational use on the inner canals. stick to your ribs; in winter the clientele holes
vessels. For most tourists however Enkhuizens Sleeping up in the cosy eetcaf.
biggest drawcard is the Zuiderzeemuseum, ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM The tourist office has a list of private rooms
one of the countrys finest. This very impressive museum (%35 11 11; www from about 18. Getting There & Away
.zuiderzeemuseum.nl; Buiten & Binnen museums adult/child Hotel Garni Recuerdos (%56 24 69; www.recuerdos.nl; Regular train services to/from Enkhuizen:
Orientation 11.50/9; Binnenmuseum only 7/6.50, parking 5; h10am- Westerstraat 217; s/d 60/85) Owned by a warm and
The train station is a terminus on the line to 5pm, Buitenmuseum only Apr-Oct) consists of two welcoming music society patron, this stately Destination Price Duration Frequency
Amsterdam and stands on the southern edge parts: the open-air or Buitenmuseum with manor house is the picture of calm, with three () (min) (per hr)
of town. The yacht-filled Buitenhaven (Outer 130-odd rebuilt dwellings and workshops, immaculate rooms overlooking a manicured
Harbour) and the narrower Oude Haven (Old and an indoor Binnenmuseum devoted to garden. The atmosphere is so friendly even the Alkmaar 6.70 52 2
Harbour) bisect the town east to west; canals farming, fishing and shipping. The two parts neighbours chime in with a greeting. Amsterdam 9.30 60 2-4
ring the old centre. Dijk is the main caf-and- lie about 300m from each other, but to re- Het Wapen van Enkhuizen (%31 34 34; wapen Den Helder 10.50 90 2
restaurant strip, on the northern bank of Oude lieve congestion visitors are encouraged to [email protected]; Breedstraat 59; r 65-79) Close Hoorn 3.40 22 2-4
Haven. About 200m further north, the long, leave their vehicles at a car park at the edge to the Zuiderzeemuseum and harbour is this
pedestrianised Westerstraat runs parallel and is of town. A ferry (fare included in your ticket) small hotel, with comfy rooms, a quiet loca- Den Helder connections mean a train change
lined with impressive historic buildings. then takes you across the bay to the outdoor tion, and a restaurant on the ground floor. at both Hoorn and Heerhugowaard, which is
 166 N O O R D H O L L A N D M e d e m b l i k Book accommodation
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inconvenient but the fastest option for public natives under his thumb, the fortress served as adult/child 4.50/3.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat east of Den Burg, is a quiet hamlet with dis-
transport. The bus station behind Enkhuizen a prison before a 19th-century restoration by & Sun). Its housed in a suitable town in a suit- tinctive architecture far from the beaches.
train station serves mainly local destinations. Pierre Cuypers, the designer of Amsterdams able spot, the former armoury of the Dutch Tiny De Cocksdorp, at the northern end
Of the few useful bus links, 150 goes five times Rijksmuseum. The original floor plan has Royal Navy. The display covers naval history of the island, is a launch pad to the island of
daily to Lelystad (35 minutes). been preserved and the imposing Ridderzaal mainly after 1815, the year the Netherlands Vlieland (p239).
Up to three ferries daily from April to (Knights Hall) still looks much as it did in became a kingdom. You can run rampant
September (and on weekends in October) the Middle Ages. The self-guided tour gives through several vessels moored on the docks Information
link Enkhuizen-Spoorhaven to Urk (adult details of the castles long history and the outside, including an ironclad ram ship and Two handy booklets Texel in a Alikruuk
single/return 8/12, child single/return 7/9, counts undoing. a submarine left high and dry (not for the (nutshell) and Travel Guide Texel have ac-
1 hours), Stavoren (adult 8.50/11.50, child Ever wondered what drove the industrial claustrophobic). Note that parents will tire commodation and activity listings, and are
5/6.70, 1 hours) and Medemblik (adult revolution? Part of the answer lies at the long before their progenies. available from the tourist office.
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

8.50/11.50, child 5/6.70, 1 hours). Stoommachine Museum (Steam Engine Museum; %54 See p170 for information on trains to Den ABN-Amro (Parkstraat 20, Den Burg) Its 50m east of the
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
47 32; Oosterdijk 4; adult/child 4.80/2.40; h10am-5pm Helder. Bus 135 (one hour, hourly) is an alter- imposing Hervormde Kerk (Dutch Reform Church), and
DYKE ROAD Tue-Sun Feb-Oct), in the old pump station outside native to changing trains to reach Hoorn. has an ATM. Other banks can be found in De Koog and De
The N302 between Enkhuizen and Lelystad Medemblik. Thirty handsome old steam en- Cocksdorp.
deserves a special mention because it runs gines from Holland, England and Germany TEXEL Tourist office (%31 47 41; www.texel.net; Emmalaan
along a 32km-long dyke, completed in 1976 as are fired up for demonstrations in summer %0222 / pop 13,450 66, Den Burg; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat)
the first step of the reclamation of the Mark- months, and kids can stoke small coal-fired About 3km north of the coast of Noord Hol- Signposted from the ferry terminal; on the southern fringe
erwaard (p175). As you get under way youll models on Wednesdays and weekends. land lies Texel (pronounced tes-sel), the larg- of town. Has free internet access, plenty of information,
pass below a high-tech causeway that connects The Museum Stoomtram (p162) departs from est and most visited of the Wadden Islands. and staff book accommodation for a fee.
Enkhuizen harbour with the IJsselmeer, with the old train station where theres a small Its a remarkably diverse place, with broad
ships floating surreally over the motorway. display of railway artefacts (free). white beaches, lush nature reserves, forests Sights
Sights are few along the route, apart from and picture-book villages. Now 25km long DUINEN VAN TEXEL NATIONAL PARK
the boats bobbing on the IJsselmeer and a Sleeping & Eating and 9km wide, it actually consisted of two For many nature lovers this patchwork of
stone monument at the halfway mark in the The tourist office has a list of private rooms islands until 1835 when a spit of land to Ey- varied dunescape running along the entire
form of a chain link symbolising the joining from 20 to 25 per person, although youre erland Island was pumped dry. western coast of the island is the prime reason
of West Friesland with Flevoland. better off making Medemblik a day trip. Before the Noordzeekanaal opened in the for visiting Texel. Salt fens and heath alternate
Hotel Medemblik (%54 38 44; www.hetwapen 19th century, Texel was a main stop for ships with velvety, grass-covered dunes, and youll
MEDEMBLIK vanmedemblik.nu; Oosterhaven 1; s/d from 65/90) Directly en route to Asia, Africa and North America: find plants endemic to this habitat, such as the
%0227 / pop 7900 opposite the tourist office on one of the towns the first trade mission to the East Indies began dainty marsh orchid or sea buckthorn, a rag-
About 12km northwest of Enkhuizen lies Me- harbour canals is this slightly dated hotel with and ended here. It was also the scene of a spec- ged shrub with bright orange berries. Much
demblik, the oldest port on the IJsselmeer, friendly staff and adequate rooms. The at- tacular maritime disaster: on Christmas Day of the area is bird sanctuary and accessible
dating back to the 12th century. Its not a tached restaurant is one of its best features. 1593, hurricane-force winds battered a mer- only on foot.
pretty town but its busy harbour and medieval De Driemaster (%54 30 20; Pekelharinghaven 49; chant fleet moored off the coast and 44 vessels De Slufter became a brackish wetland after
fortress are worth a few hours of your time. mains 12-24; hlunch & dinner) Ahh lovely views sank, drowning about a thousand seamen. an attempt at land reclamation failed; when
of the harbour and IJsselmeer as you rel- Texel relies chiefly on tourism, with the a storm breached the dykes in the early 1900s
Orientation & Information ish a braised turbot or launch into a filled majority of visitors being either Dutch or the area was allowed to flood and a unique
The castle stands on the eastern side and croissant. The best spots are canalside for German. The local wool is highly prized and ecosystem developed. To the south, De Muy is
is signposted from the harbour. The richly watching the big pleasure boats drift under there are sheep everywhere, lazing, grazing or renowned for its colony of spoonbills that are
decorated faades on Kaasmarkt, Torenstraat, the drawbridge. tippee-toeing along the dykes. monitored with great zeal by local naturalists.
Nieuwstraat and along the Achterom canal are Only a stones throw from the windswept
impressive. The old town is only 1km across Getting There & Around Orientation beach lies the dark, leafy forest of De Dennen
and thus quickly absorbed. The nearest real train station is in Hoorn, from Ferries from the mainland dock at t Horntje between Den Hoorn and De Koog. Originally
Tourist office (%54 28 52; www.vvv-medemblik.nl; where bus 39 (twice hourly) makes the hour on the south side of the isle, from where buses planted as a source of lumber, today it has an
Kaasmarkt 1; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) A folksy all-in-one journey to Medemblik. A ferry links Medemb- head north to Texels six main villages. Den enchanting network of walking and biking
place, with a good stock of maps at the back of the local lik with Enkhuizen-Spoorhaven (p165). Burg, 6km north of t Horntje, is the islands paths. In springtime the forest floor is car-
stationers. Will book accommodation for a 2.50 fee. Ted de Lange (%57 00 93; Vooreiland 1) on the modest capital and home to the tourist of- peted with snowdrops that were first planted
eastern side of town has a huge selection of fice, while De Koog, another 5km north again, here in the 1930s.
Sights & Activities bicycles for hire. is Texels tourist mecca with a distinctly tacky
The rather twee Kasteel Radboud (%54 19 60; streak. ECOMARE
adult/child 3/2; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-5pm Sat) at the DEN HELDER Den Hoorn, only 5km northwest of the Initially a refuge for sick seals retrieved from
head of the harbour looks for all the world %0223 ferry terminal, is handy to tulip fields and the Waddenzee, Ecomare (%31 77 41; www.ecomare
like a well-fortified mansion rather than the Before you reach Texel, the only attraction in windswept sand dunes, and Oudeschild, 7km .nl; Ruyslaan 92, De Koog; adult/child 7.75/4.75; h9am-
castle its purported to be. Built by Count the unspectacular naval town of Den Helder northeast of t Horntje, has the best harbour 5pm) has expanded into a nature centre de-
Floris V in the 13th century to keep the feisty is the Marine Museum (%65 75 34; Hoofdgracht 3; facilities on the island. Oosterend, 6km north- voted to the preservation and understanding

168 N O O R D H O L L A N D Te xe l www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
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TEXEL ISLAND 0
0
6 km
4 mi
OTHER SIGHTS do outings for sports fishermen, complete
June is the time to see wild orchids on Texel with fishing equipment. If theres a late tide,

To Vlieland
A B C D a rarity in the country; outside this month, some boats also go out at around 4.30pm.
TEXEL BUS ROUTES dress lightly and head for the steamy Eureka Catamarans can be hired from De Eilander
28 Route 28: Veerhaven-Klimpstraat Tropische Tuin (%31 83 64; Schorrenweg 20, Oosterend; (%0620634413; www.deeilander.nl; Paal 33, De Cocksdorp;
1 29 Route 29: Veerhaven-De Witte Hoek Duinen Van 29 adult/child 3.50/2.50; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm catamaran hire for 5hr 112.50; hMay-Oct) near the
Texel
National Park 28 Klimpstraat Sat). A number of native orchid species can Vlieland boat dock. You can board as a pas-
be viewed in all their tender, quivering glory senger for 27.50 per hour recommended

De Cocksdorp
alongside exotic specimens, and a menagerie for novices when the North Sea is rough (ie
of tropical birds fill the greenhouse with their most of the time). Five-hour sailing courses
De Slufter colourful plumes. cost 135.
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

28 29 The isles only brewery, the Texelse Bier- To gather your own beach treasure, board a
FLEVOLAND

brouwerij (%31 32 29; www.speciaalbier.nl; Schilderweg horse-drawn wagon run by Jutters Plezier (%31

FLEVOLAND
g
we
De Muy
214b, Oudeschild; adult/child 6/2.50; h1.30-6pm Wed & Sat) 62 25; De Cocksdorp; adult/child 7.50/4.25). The 1-hour

ofd
Slu
eg

fte

Ho
2
stw
4 rw
eg divulges the secrets of its suds including its tasty trips are more for the journey than the treasure
Po

Mu
yw
eg
Speciaalbier. The former dairy on the property really, and end at the owners private lair for a
10
2 nwe
g has a terrace ideal for downing a few. round of herbal schnapps. Tours (minimum
rre
De Koog Sc
ho Kaasboerderijk Wezenspyk (%31 50 90; Hoondern- 15 persons) depart from the lighthouse check

Polder Waal
28 En Burg weg 29), a small cheese farm between Den with the tourist office for times.

s terdijk
g

Hoorn and Den Burg, is the place to scoop Tessel Air (%31 14 36; www.paracentrumtexel.nl; Texel
e

28
derw

NORTH De S 29

up tasty rounds produced from the local cows, Airport) offers pleasure flights over Texel from 30
wlan

taart Oosterend
SEA 1 N501 n ca Waddenzee
Nieu

sheep and goats. per person (15-minute flight, minimum two

La

De Waal
7
persons), and for a bit more cash theyll explore
Po

3 Activities the other Wadden Islands. To really feel the

ntw

Den Burg SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

eg

De Dennen
8
28 Ecomare.............................................1 A3 Swimming, cycling, walking, boating, relaxing; wind in your face, try a tandem jump (190
Eureka Tropische Tuin........................2 C2
er we
g
29 Kaasboerderijk Wezenspyk.................3 B4 Texel is an island to enjoy all these. Its pris- per jump); it includes all the thrill of freefall
est Schild
W 9 er Luchtvaart & Oorlogsmuseum............4 B2 tinely white beaches, lining the northwestern without the fear of screwing things up.

N501 6 weg
Maritime & Beachcombers Museum...5 C4
29
Texelse Bierbrouwerij..........................6 B3 shore, are numbered and marked (with a paal,
erweg 5
bulb fields Hemm 3
28
Red ou
te
Oudeschild
or piling) from south to north. Lifeguards are Festivals & Events
eg

SLEEPING
Den
Hoorn
der w
De Bremakker.....................................7 B3 on duty from No 9 southeast of Den Hoorn Lammetjes Wandeltrocht (Lamb Walking Route;
Hoorn Hotel De 14 Sterren............................8 B3 to No 21 near De Koog in summer. There are Easter) Popular walk around the island, attracting plenty of
de
eg

Stayokay Hostel Panorama.................9 B3

Re
ntw

Strandhotel Noordzee.......................10 B2 two nudist beaches, at No 9 and at No 27 in the mainland Dutch.

De
Po

Duinen Van
28 29
4 Texel
north. Swimming is prohibited between Nos Ronde om Texel (www.roundtexel.com; mid-Jun) The
National Park Veerhaven EATING
11
't Horntje De Worsteltent.................................(see 8) 31 and 33 near the lighthouse at De Cocksdorp largest catamaran race in the world; spectators line the
Hors
TRANSPORT
due to treacherous riptides. beaches for hours on end watching boats jive back and
To Den Helder Ferry Jetty.........................................11 B4 The tourist office sells a useful booklet (in forth on the sea.
(4km)
Dutch; 2.50) of cycle routes and hiking trails
that crisscross the island, as well as horse rid- Sleeping
of Texels wildlife. Contained within its walls fice, the Maritime & Beachcombers Museum (%31 ing schools which operate between April and There are an astounding 46,000 beds on the
are displays on Texels development since the 49 56; Barentszstraat 21, Oudeschild; adult/child 4.50/3.25; October. The well-marked 80km-long Texel island, but surprisingly it pays to book ahead,
last ice age, islanders interaction with the sea, h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) will interest Path takes you through the dunes and over especially in July and August. De Koog has by
large aquariums filled with fish from the Wad- most visitors. Its extraordinary variety of the mud flats before veering inland through far the most options, but hamlets such as Den
den and North Seas (including sharks and junk recovered from sunken ships is mind- the islands villages; the circular local routes Hoorn or De Cocksdorp are more peaceful
seaskates), and a national park expos. boggling its a bit like perusing flotsam from along the way make for nice one- to three- and relaxing.
The highlight for young and old, however, the Titanic. In the outdoor section there are hour hikes or bike trips. The tourist office has a list of B&Bs from
is the seals themselves; their playful water bal- demonstrations by rope-makers, fish-smokers Boat trips (leaving from Oudeschild) are around 25 per person per night; otherwise
let lacking in any apparent effort will delight and blacksmiths, while the indoor displays conducted by shrimp trawlers such as the pick up a copy of Travel Guide Texel and strike
all but the most jaded visitor. Try to catch a cover everything from underwater archaeol- Emmie TX 10 (%31 36 39; Oudeschild; adult/child 8/7; out on your own. Note that prices drop in the
feeding at 11am or 3pm. Rescued birds are the ogy to windmill technology. h10.30am & 2pm Mon-Sat). The two-hour trip low season (October to April) when island life
other main tenants. Next to the airfield, the Luchtvaart & Oor- around the island sails close to an endangered slips into a lower gear. Texels 11 main camp
logsmuseum (Aviation Museum; %31 16 89; adult/child seal colony on the sandbanks. Some shrimp sites teem in summer; the tourist office can tell
MUSEUMS 3/1.85; hTue-Sun 11am-5pm Easter-Oct) revisits the caught on the journey are prepared fresh for you which ones have vacancies. Many farms
Of the six museums on the island, which are glory days of the islands pint-sized squadron. passengers. Try your luck or book at the tour- also offer rooms and camp sites.
covered by the Texel Museum Combination Card Artefacts include old aircraft or bits thereof, ist office or directly by phone. Other boats Hotel De 14 Sterren (%32 26 81; www.14sterren.nl;
(adult/child 15/8.50) available from the tourist of- such as the cockpit of a 1913 Fokker. such as Rival (%31 34 10; anglers/observers 15/7.50) Smitsweg 4, Den Burg; s/d 55/110; n) You couldnt
 170 N O O R D H O L L A N D Te xe l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D H O L L A N D A a l s m e e r 171

wish for a nicer spot than this place, on the but this is arguably the islands top pick it Ferry De Vriendschap (%31 64 51; www.wadden Bidding usually takes place between 7am
edge of De Dennen forest. Each of its 14 cures its own catch behind the harbour dam. veer.nl; De Cocksdorp; adult/child return 20/13.50) makes the and 9.30am, so get there early to catch the
rooms is decorated in warm Mediterranean Plonk down at a plastic table for an eel or her- half-hour crossing from De Cocksdorp to car- spectacle from the viewing gallery. Selling is
hues, and most have a terrace or balcony with ring sandwich, or its trademark fish soup. free Vlieland (p239), the nearest of the Wadden conducted surprise! by Dutch auction,
garden views. Freya (%32 16 86; Gravenstraat 4, Den Burg; set menu Islands, at 10.45am on Tuesday, Wednesday, with a huge clock showing the starting price,
t Anker (%31 62 74; [email protected]; Kikkertstraat 23.50; hdinner Tue-Sat) This petite restaurant Thursday and Sunday May to September. In dropping until someone takes up the offer.
24, De Cocksdorp; d 45) This small, family-run hotel has a reputation for outstanding French and July and August it departs daily, and an extra Theres a self-guided tour of the site with
is full of charm and cheer, and has basic yet Dutch cuisine, so its no surprise that reser- ferry sails at 9.30am. It returns from Vlieland at audio boxes at strategic points. Pick your days
comfy rooms in quiet De Cocksdorp. Its lush vations are highly recommended. The hosts 5.15pm, and also 4pm July to August. carefully: Mondays are quiet and Thursdays
garden is just an appetiser for the Roggesloot are warm and welcoming, and while the place very, very busy.
nature reserve close by. bubbles with energy, it has a decidedly ro- Getting Around Take Connexxion bus 172 from Amster-
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

Bij Jef (%31 96 23; www.bijjef.nl; Herenstraat 34, Den mantic air. Connexxion/AOT (%09009292; h7am-10pm) oper- dam Centraal Station to the Aalsmeer VBA
FLEVOLAND

Taveerne De Twaalf Balcken (%31 26 81; Wever-

FLEVOLAND
Hoorn; s/d 72.50/90) The simple yet stylish red ates two bus routes on the island throughout stop (50 minutes, five times hourly).
rooms here come with a bath tub, well-stocked straat 20, Den Burg; mains 12-20; hlunch & dinner) The the year, and supplements this with another
mini bar, views of the countryside, and a sun Tavern of the 12 Beams is a locals haunt that over the summer months; day passes cost MUIDEN
drenched balcony (when the suns out). specialises in lamb dishes and cosy ambience. 4.50 from the bus driver. Bus 28 links t %0294 / pop 3400
Strandhotel Noordzee (%31 73 65; webmaster@ The front section is dark and subdued, perfect Horntje with Den Burg (seven minutes) and Only an hours bike ride southeast of Amster-
noordzee.nu; Badweg 200; s/d 80/125) This newly for sipping away on one of the many Trappist De Koog (another 15 minutes) before re- dam, Muiden is an unhurried historical town
built establishment is possibly the only hotel beers on offer, while the back conservatory turning via the Ecomare museum, while bus renowned for its red-brick castle, the Muid-
directly on Texels sandy beaches. Its rooms is bright and warm, and topped off with a 29 starts at the ferry jetty and goes to Den erslot. Life otherwise focuses on the central
are fairly standard and lack flair, but theyre kids corner. Hoorn and Den Burg before snaking its way lock that funnels scores of pleasure boats out
suitably comfy and the view of the North Sea Rtisserie Kerckeplein (%31 89 50; Oesterstraat 6, along the eastern shore to De Cocksdorp via into the vast IJsselmeer.
uninterrupted. Theres a restaurant on site Oosterend; mains 25-35; hdinner Wed-Sun) This cosy Oudeschild and Oosterend. The summer-only
and a two-night minimum stay policy. Texel-French restaurant has definitely got bus 230 zigzags all over the island, taking in Sights
Stayokay Hostel Panorama (%31 54 41; www lamb down to a fine art, with seven choices Oudeschild, Den Burg, Ecomare and De Koog The towns dominating feature is the Muider-
.stayokay.com; Haffelderweg 28, Den Burg; dm 25, d 65; in this category alone. You can sit in the before finishing up in De Cocksdorp. slot (Muiden Castle; % 26 13 25; www.muiderslot.nl;
n) Texels HI hostel was in the process of loft and wash it all down with a dark Texels The welter of bicycle shops include Zegel Herengracht 1; adult/child 7/5; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri,
moving to the edge of Den Burg at the time Speciaalbier. In high season it also opens at (%31 21 50; Parkstraat 14, Den Burg), which charges noon-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, noon-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar),
of research, but expect to find a brand-spank- lunchtime. 4/16 for touring bikes per day/week and a fortress built in 1280 by the ambitious count
ing new establishment with clean, colourful Also recommended: 6/22.50 for three-speeds. Near the ferry ter- Floris V, son of Willem II. The castle was
rooms and a restaurant when it reopens. De Worsteltent (%32 26 81; www.14sterren.nl; Smits- minal, Verhuur Heijne (%31 95 88; Pontweg 2, t one of the first in Holland to be equipped
Loodmans Welvaren (%31 92 28; www.welvaart weg 4, Den Burg; mains 15-20, hlunch & dinner) The Horntje) charges similar rates. with round towers, a French innovation. The
texel.nl; Herenstraat 12, Den Hoorn; s/d/ste from 66/83/105) barnhouse restaurant attached to the Hotel de 14 Sterren The Telekom Taxi (%32 22 11) takes you be- popular Floris was also a champion of the
Rooms in this renovated skippers inn are is a top option for lunch and/or dinner, with an extensive tween the ferry terminal and any destination poor and French sympathiser, two factors
cheery and spacious with mod cons like mini- wine list alongside steak, fish and vegetarian dishes. on the island for 5 per person. Book at least which were bound to spell trouble; the count
bar, phone and TV, and the plush top-floor Bij Jef (%31 96 23; www.bijjef.nl; Herenstraat 34, Den an hour in advance, or buy a ticket at the Teso was imprisoned in 1296 and murdered while
suite affords a wonderful feeling of privacy. The Hoorn; mains around 20; hlunch & dinner) Sumptuous counter in Den Helder ferry terminal; taxis trying to flee.
owner could be a little friendlier, however. French-influenced cuisine. wait by the ferry jetty in t Horntje. In the 17th century, historian PC Hooft
De Bremakker (%31 28 63; www.bremakker.nl; Tem- entertained some of the centurys greatest
plierweg 40; camp site 26.50, chalets from 130; hApr-Oct) Getting There & Away AALSMEER writers, artists and scientists here, a group
This leafy campground is situated between Trains from Amsterdam to Den Helder (12, %0297 famously known as the Muiderkring (Muiden
Den Burg and De Koog at the forests edge, one hour, twice hourly) are met by a bus that A few kilometres southwest of the capital Circle). Today its the most visited castle in the
about 1km from the beach. Theres a laundry whisks you to the awaiting car ferry. and not far from the worlds largest tulip country, with precious furnishings, weapons,
and snack bar, plus sports facilities and al- Teso (%36 96 00; www.teso.nl; adult/child/car return garden (p195) in the town of Aalsmeer is the and Gobelin hangings designed to re-create
most always an abundance of calm. Its chalets 3/1.50/35) runs a ferry service from Den Helder worlds biggest flower auction (%39 21 85; www Hoofts era. The interior can be seen only on
are in excellent condition and sleep up to to t Horntje. The crossing takes 20 minutes .aalsmeer.com; Legmeerdijk 313; adult/child 4.50/2.50; h7- guided tours; tours may be partly improvised
four persons. and leaves at 30 minutes past the hour from 11am Mon-Fri). On average, 21 million flowers in English. Reserve ahead if you want an
6.30am to 9.30pm; returning boats leave on and plants, worth around 6 million, change English-only tour.
Eating the hour between 6am to 9pm. On some sum- hands in the period of a day; the romantic rose Off the coast lies a derelict fort on the island
With over 27,000 sheep roaming the island, mer days theres a service every half-hour is the biggest seller by far, surprisingly outsell- of Pampus (%26 23 26; www.pampus.nl; adult/child ferry
lamb naturally gets top billing, but seafood check the timetable to be sure. If youre driv- ing its nearest competitor, the tulip, almost & guided tour 12/8; hApr-Oct). This massive 19th-
comes a close second. ing in high season, show up at the docks 15 three to one. The action itself takes place in a century bunker was a key member of a ring
Vispaleis-Rokerij De Ster (%31 24 41; Heemskerck- to 30 minutes before departure as therell be a staggering arena; at one million square metres of 42 fortresses built to defend Amsterdam.
straat 13, Oudeschild; snacks 3-6, mains 5-8; hlunch & queue. Fares for motorcycles and cars are 30% in size, its the largest commercial building Rescued from disrepair by Unesco, the facility
dinner) There are plenty of fish takeaway joints, cheaper from Tuesday to Thursday. in the world. now receives preservation funds as a World
 172 N O O R D H O L L A N D H e t G o o i www.lonelyplanet.com Book
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Heritage site. Ferries to Pampus depart from on the Gooimeer to the north, and Loos- The 17th-century Czech educational re- ing pad for excursions into the leafy region
Muiderslot port at 10.30am, 12.30pm and drecht, on the artificial lakes known as the former, Jan Amos Komensky (Comenius), of Het Gooi. However its best known to the
2.30pm. Loosdrechtse Plassen to the east. Huizen and is buried here in the Waalse Kapel. His life Dutch as the national broadcasting centre.
Loosdrecht are popular water-sports centres, and work are related next door at the Comen- Commentary from abroad is beamed back
Activities while Naarden, on the Gooimeer to the north, ius Museum (%694 30 45; Kloosterstraat 33; adult/child here rather than to Den Haag, the seat of the
You wont find a better area on the IJsselmeer has an intriguing fortress. 2.50/1.50; hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun). Dutch parliament, or to the nations capital in
for boating and windsurfing. Boat firms at The tourist office also organises one-hour Amsterdam a quirk of Dutch history as the
Muiden harbour rent large, often luxurious Naarden boat tours (2) around the moat. first radio station was founded in Hilversum
motor and sailing boats from about 300 to %035 / pop 17,000
1300 per week. For smaller craft, the Water- Naarden would be just another satellite town SLEEPING & EATING ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
sportcentrum Muiderberg (%06-223 75489; www to the capital if it wasnt for the magical for- Poorters (%694 48 68; www.poorters.nl; Marktstraat 66; The few attractions are in or near the pedes-
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

.wscmuiderberg.com; hAprmid-Oct) rents small sail- tress on its northwest border. This work of s/d 60/70) The sole hotel within the old town trianised centre, which is immediately west of
FLEVOLAND

FLEVOLAND
boats for two to four persons (from 35 per art is best seen from the air: a 12-pointed walls is splendidly renovated with four simple the train station. Ringed by a street network
day) as well as windsurf boards and canoes star, with arrowheads at each tip. This de- but atmospheric rooms (only one has pri- defined by the old city walls, the centre of
(5 to 10 per hour) in Muiderberg, 3km fence system, one of the best preserved in the vate shower and toilet). Theres a cosy bar, a Hilversum measures about 1.5km across and
from Muiden. The shop isnt signposted, but country, was unfortunately built only after the restaurant (mains 8 to 18) with canalside is easy to navigate.
seek out the green beach hut and ask for Ben Spanish massacred the inhabitants in the 16th dining and regular art exhibitions. Library (%621 29 42; s Gravelandse Weg 55; h1-
or Jeroen. century. The bastions were still staffed by the Jachthaven (%695 60 50; Onderwal 4; hut 32) Theres 8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) A dozen internet terminals
Dutch army throughout the 1920s, although no camp site or hostel close to Naarden, but that you can use for free.
Eating & Drinking its strategic importance had already paled you can book one of the basic trekkershutten Tourist office (%629 28 10; www.vvvhilversum.nl;
Brasserie Muiden (%26 45 07; Herengracht 75; mains before WWI. (hikers huts) for up to four people at this yacht Kerkbrink 6; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Signposted from the
15-20; hlunch & dinner) This centrally located harbour. Theyre in a corner of the marina near train station; in the heart of town.
eatery is a step up from most, with a polished INFORMATION a leafy recreation area, with hundreds of boats
interior and outdoor canal-side seating. The Tourist office (%694 28 36; www.vvvnaarden.nl; to view and a restaurant on-site. Take bus 110 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
menu heavily features seafood, but the likes of Adriaan Dortsmanplein 1B; h10am-2pm Sat, also to Jachthaven (five minutes). The centre of Hilversum may be marred by
ribs and steaks are never very far away. 11am-3pm Tue-Fri Mayearly Jun, 11am-3pm Mon-Fri Naarden has a surprising number of top modern town planning, but the legacy of Wil-
Caf Ome Ko (%0294-261 330; cnr Herengracht & early Junearly Sep) In the old barracks; has an English- eateries for its size. Some of the better ones: lem Dudok, the architect who shaped the city in
Naardenstraat; h8am-2am) In warm weather the language leaflet with a self-guided walking tour of the Beter Broodje (Marktstraat 25; snacks 2-5; hlunch the early 20th century, is still plain for everyone
clientele of this little bar turns the street out- town and accommodation information. & dinner) Small, basic fast-food establishment favoured by to see. Nearly 100 buildings in Hilversum bear
side into one big party. Whens theres no locals and tourists alike for its quick service and satisfying Dudoks stamp; the tourist office sells a walking
party on, the caf is a perfect spot to watch SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES seafood snacks. guide to Dudoks buildings in the town.
the comings and goings through the busy Most of Naardens quaint little houses date Eetcaf t Hert (%694 80 55; Cattenhagestraat 12; The beautiful, modernist Raadhuis (Town Hall;
lock right outside. from 1572, the year the Spaniards razed the mains 11-20; hlunch & dinner) Pleasant pub-caf with Dudokpark 1), 700m west of the train station, is
place during their colonisation of North Hol- sunny garden tucked away in one of Naardens backstreets. the epitome of Dudoks work. The fabulous
Getting There & Away land. The bloodbath led by Don Frederick of Sandwiches, salads and regional specialities served. interior, with its simple, elegant lines that
Connexxion bus 157 links Muiden with Toledo is commemorated by a stone tablet on Het Arsenaal (%694 91 48; Kooltjesbuurt 1; mains recall Frank Lloyd Wright or the Bauhaus
Amsterdams Amstelstation (20 minutes, the building at Turfpoortstraat 7. 22-30; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily) One of the movement, is a must for any architecture
twice hourly). Bus 110 links the town with The Vestingmuseum (Fortress Museum; %694 54 regions strongholds of swank, specialising in French fan. The tower, restored in 1996, is stunning
Weesp (15 minutes), Muiderberg (five min- 59; Westwalstraat 6; adult/child 5/3; h10.30am-5pm Tue- cuisine. The separate brassiere offers more pedestrian fare in its symmetry and inventive arrangement
utes) and Naarden (15 minutes). Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, noon-5pm Sun Nov-Feb) at lunchtime. of horizontal and vertical brick. Inside is
is a star-shaped fortress thought to be the the Dudok Centrum (%629 2262; adult/child 2/free;
HET GOOI only one in Europe featuring a buffer of two GETTING THERE & AWAY hnoon-4.30pm Wed & Fri), which holds regular
Along the slow-moving Vecht River southeast walls and two moats. You can stroll around There are two direct trains hourly between architecture exhibitions. Tours of both the
of Amsterdam lies Het Gooi, a shady wood- on the rolling battlements before descending Amsterdam Centraal Station and Naarden- Raadhuis and Dudok Centrum (adult/child
land speckled with lakes and heath. In the into the casements for glimpses of a cramped Bussum (4.10, 20 minutes, twice hourly), 5/3) take place at 2pm on Sunday.
17th century, this Garden of Amsterdam was soldiers life. and more if you change at Weesp. From the Directly above the tourist office is the Mu-
a popular retreat for wealthy merchants, and Its easy to spot the tall tower of the forts station, bus 110 (five minutes, twice hourly) seum Hilversum (%629 28 26; www.museumhilversum
nature-hungry urbanites still flock to its leafy central Grote Kerk (%694 98 73; www.grotekerknaarden runs to the fortress, otherwise its a 20-minute .nl; Kerkbrink 6; adult/child 4/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat,
trails to hike and cycle today. The areas main .nl; Markstraat 13; admission free; h10.30am-4.30pm Tue- walk. Bus 110 continues on to Muiden (15 noon-5pm Sun), which is worth checking out if
centre is Hilversum, a one-time commuter Sat, 2.30-4.30pm Sun-Mon), a Gothic basilica with minutes) and finally Weesp (30 minutes). you plan to explore Het Gooi Amsterdams
town given a fresh start by the Dutch broad- stunning 16th-century vault paintings of Back Garden. Displays include archaeological
casting industry, which has its headquarters biblical scenes. You can climb the tower (265 Hilversum finds from early Gooi-dwellers and the history
here. The area is roughly bordered by Laren, steps) for a good view of the leafy Gooi and %035 / pop 83,100 of the region, including the town itself.
a well-heeled town a few kilometres to the the Vecht River. Organ concerts (admission Hilversum, a quiet commuter town with a The Nederlands Omroepmuseum (Dutch Broadcast
northeast with a good art museum, Huizen 5) are held throughout the year. handful of quality museums, is a good launch- Museum; %677 34 34; Media Park, Sumatralaan 45) tells
 174 F L E V O L A N D Le l y s t a d Book accommodation
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the history of Dutch TV and radio going back Destination Price Duration Frequency of urban planning gone awry. The main reason frigate, the Batavia, which took 10 years to
to 1919. The first broadcasting licence was () (min) (per hr) for visiting this expanse of steel and concrete is reconstruct. The original was a 17th-century
granted to a Hilversum station, and the Dutch its three museums, which will keep parents and Titanic big, expensive and supposedly un-
broadcasting industry grew up around it. An Amsterdam 4.90 26 1 their hangers-on entertained for hours. sinkable. True to comparison, the Batavia,
interesting aspect is the background about Naarden-Bussum 1.70 5-8 6 filled to the brim with cannon and goods
the various political and religious groups now Utrecht 3.40 20 4 Orientation for the colonies, went down in 1629 on its
represented on the media landscape, a product Most shops and restaurants are in the pedes- maiden voyage off the west coast of Australia.
of the social pillarisation that moulded 20th- Bus 107 goes from the train station to the Raad- trianised knot of streets opposite the station; The replica however redeemed its predeces-
century Dutch life. At the time of research huis and Dudok Centrum (five minutes). the key museums are a short bus ride west on sor in 2000 by sailing around the Pacific.
the museum was closed due to substantial the IJsselmeer shore. A smattering of tourist Theres ample evidence of the eras wealth
renovations; check with the tourist office for Around Hilversum leaflets is available at the train station. on the upper decks, where youll see carved
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

up-to-date information. In Laren, which is 5km northeast of Hilver- wooden likenesses of merchant seamen and
Sights
FLEVOLAND

sum, the Singer Museum (%539 39 39; www.singer

FLEVOLAND
The tourist office sells a huge range of cy- a gold-leaf lantern above the captains quar-
cling and hiking maps to the area, including laren.nl; Oude Drift 1; adult/child 10/free; h11am-5pm Lelystads two big sights, the Batavia Museum ters. Little imagination is required, however,
the Wandelroutes and Fietsroutes in t Gooi Tue-Sun) houses a splendid collection of Dutch and Nieuwland Poldermuseum, are next to to grasp how punishing a sailors life could
en Omstreeken (Hiking Routes and Biking and foreign paintings, mostly modernist and Bataviastad, a mock fort containing an outlet be, especially for those who broke the rules:
Routes in t Gooi and Surrounds). If you dont impressionist works from 1880 to 1950. Not shopping centre 3km west of the train station. stealing a loaf of bread might merit a months
read Dutch, its no problem as the routes are all works are displayed at once, with exhibi- A combined ticket to both costs 12/5.50 confinement in a cramped hole so constructed
clearly marked. The cycling series covers 12 tions changing several times a year. Take bus for adults/children, and bus F (10 minutes, that it was impossible to either sit or stand
paths in the vicinity, all of which are well sign- 109 from Hilversum train station to Laren four hourly) connects the museums with the upright.
posted, with distances of 35km to 70km. Kermisterrein (20 minutes, four hourly). train station. The wooden skeleton alongside belongs
Your first port of call should be the Batavia- to the Seven Provinces, a replica of Admiral
SLEEPING & EATING werf Museum (%26 14 09; Oostvaardersdijk 1-9; adult/ Michiel de Ruijters massive flagship thats
Hotel de Waag (%624 65 17; www.dewaag.nl; Groest
17; s/d from 45/65) You probably wont spend
FLEVOLAND child 9/4.50; h10am-5pm) and its star attraction:
a replica of a 17th-century Dutch merchant
scheduled for completion in 2015. In a sep-
arate building on the northern perimeter, the
the night in Hilversum, but if you do this is Flevoland, the Netherlands 12th and youngest
your best bet. Its a jolly caf with an unusu- province, is a masterpiece of Dutch hydro-
ally good location in the centre and rooms engineering. In the early 1920s, an ambitious KEEPING THE RELENTLESS SEA AT BAY
in fairly good nick. The sidewalk often hums scheme went ahead to reclaim more than 1400 The Netherlands coastline originally extended as far as the sandy beaches of Texel (p167) and
with activity in the early evenings. sq km of land an idea mooted as far back as its Frisian Island companions (p238). The relentless sea, however, never seemed to be in agree-
Benk (%623 33 61; Kerkbrink 2; mains 14-19; hlunch the 17th century. The completion of the Afsluit- ment with such borders, and by the end of the 13th century storms had washed seawater over
& dinner) Occupying a sunny corner of the main dijk (opposite) paved the way for the creation of flimsy land barriers and pushed it far inland. The end result was the creation of the Zuiderzee
square is this modern bar-restaurant. Benks Flevoland. Ringed dykes were erected, allowing (literally South Sea).
simple lunch offerings (ie, sandwiches around water to be pumped out at a snail-like pace. The ruling Dutch had for centuries dreamed of draining the Zuiderzee to reclaim the huge
5) are a winner with office workers, and its Once part of Overijssel province, the Noor- tracts of valuable farmland. The seafaring folk of the villages lining the sea were of a different
more established dinner menu, heavily laden doostpolder was inaugurated in 1942, followed opinion, even though the shallow Zuiderzee constantly flooded their homes and businesses, and
with meat and seafood, is a fine appetizer for by the Eastern Flevoland (1957) and Southern often took lives with it. A solution needed to be found, and the only way to tame the waves, it
the bars cocktails. Flevoland (1968). First residential rights were seems, was to block them off.
Not far east of the centre is a conglomera- granted to workers whod helped in reclamation A huge dyke was proposed as early as the mid-17th century, but it wasnt until the late 19th
tion of three top restaurants, all with outdoor and to farmers, especially from Zeeland, who century, when new engineering techniques were developed, that such a dyke could become
seating: lost everything in the great flood of 1953. reality. Engineer Cornelis Lely, who lent his name to Lelystad, was the first to sketch out a retaining
Zilt & Zo (%628 14 93; Laanstraat 35a; set menu 30; The cities that sprang up bring to mind any- barrier; a major flood in 1916 set the plan in motion, and construction began in 1927. Fishermen
hdinner) International cuisine of the highest quality, thing but the Golden Age. The main hubs worried about their livelihood, and fears that the Wadden Islands would vanish in the rising seas
complemented by a worldwide wine list. Almere, Lelystad and Emmeloord are grind- were voiced, and while the former concerns were legitimate, the latter proved unfounded.
De Jonghe Graef van Buuren (%624 54 02; ingly dull places, laid out in grid patterns for In 1932 the Zuiderzee was ceremoniously sealed off by the Afsluitdijk (Barrier Dyke), an impres-
Laanstraat 37; mains around 14; hdinner) Pub-eatery affordable housing. The star attractions are the sive dam (30km long and 90m wide) that links the provinces of Noord Holland and Friesland.
serving solid fare like deep-fried plaice with chips, but with Bataviawerf museum at Lelystad, old fishing vil- The water level remained relatively steady, but the fishing industry was effectively killed as the
plenty of care and attention. lages such as Urk and Schokland, and the bird- basin gradually filled with fresh water from the river IJssel the IJsselmeer was born. Vast tracts
Proeverij de Open Keuken (%623 07 77; Laanstraat filled nature reserve of Oostvaardersplassen. of land were however created, which were soon turned into arable polders (p48). A second bar-
31; mains around 15, tapas 4-8) Best visited for its rier between Enkhuizen and Lelystad was completed in 1976 creating the Markermeer with
generous choice of tapas and friendly service. LELYSTAD the idea of ushering in the next phase of land reclamation, but the plan was shelved to protect
%0320 / pop 67,000 the environment.
GETTING THERE & AROUND With unattractive modern architecture For more information on this vast human endeavour, spend some time at the Nieuwland
Direct train services to/from Hilversum include dominating its disjointed sprawl, Lelystad, the Poldermuseum (p176) in Lelystad, which covers in detail the land reclamation.
the following: capital of Flevoland Province, is a good example
 Lonely Planet Publications
176 F L E V O L A N D O o s t v a a r d e r s p l a s s e n N a t u re R e s e r v e Book accommodation
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Netherlands Institute for Maritime Archaeology Today its a bird sanctuary of international try, a holdover from the days when its fleet SCHOKLAND
displays the remains of a 2000-year-old Roman repute with a formidable variety of species. sailed into the open Zuiderzee. That sweet %0527
ship found near Utrecht. Great white egrets, cormorants and spoon- smell on the air comes from the several fish A bleak variation on the island theme, the
Nearly half of the Netherlands was created bills can be seen nesting, and lucky visitors factories located here. community of Schokland eked out an exist-
by massive land reclamation, and Nieuwland may also catch a glimpse of endangered spe- Youll see dozens of historic fishing boats ence for hundreds of years on a long, narrow
Poldermuseum (%26 07 99; Oostvaardersdijk 1-13; adult/ cies such as the white-tailed eagle. Illustrated moored around the harbour, including the strip of land in the Zuiderzee. By the mid-19th
child 7/3.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-5pm Sat & Sun, boards around the park help to identify what brown-sailed botters with gleaming wooden century the clock had run out: fish prices
also 10am-5pm Mon Jul & Aug) is the definitive mu- appears in your sights. hulls and oversized leeboards. At the western plummeted and vicious storms were literally
seum on the topic. Its a sure-fire winner with Youll also see quirky mammals such as the end of town, take the coastal walk around the eroding the island away. The plucky locals
kids, who can build model bridges or dams, conic (a docile pony), the horned heck cattle as lighthouse for a pinch of local folklore. Just hung on, despite the appalling living condi-
and navigate ships through their locks. well as red deer, all of which serve as lawn mow- 70m off the shore lies the Ommelebommelestien, tions, prompting Willem III to order their
NOORD HOLLAND &

NOORD HOLLAND &

No expense has been spared for Luchtvaart ers on the meadows around the perimeter. a slippery rock said to be the birthplace of all removal in 1859. Schokland was eventually
FLEVOLAND

Themapark Aviodrome (%289 98 40; www.aviodrome

FLEVOLAND
Entry into the marsh itself isnt allowed, but native Urkers. Legend also has it that, far from swallowed up by the Noordoostpolder in the
.nl; Dakotaweg 11a; adult/child 13.50/11.50; h10am-5pm the next best thing is a visit to De Kluut ob- receiving the delivery by stork, dad had to take 20th century, just like Urk.
Tue-Sun). This huge museum has 70 historic servation hut on the northeastern edge of the a rowboat to pick up his newborn. Now a Unesco World Heritage site, the
aircraft on display, including a replica of reserve. The various hiking and bicycle paths The supports of the village church, Kerkje aan Schokland Museum (%25 13 96; www.schokland.nl; Mid-
the Wright Brothers 1902 Flyer, Baron von begin here, including a 35km route around the de Zee (Peter Salebienplein), are made entirely out of delbuurt 3; adult/child 3.50/2.75; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-
Richthofens WWI triplane, a Spitfire and a entire lake. The Schollevaar observation post masts of VOC (Dutch East India Company) Oct, daily Jul & Aug, Fri-Sun Nov-Mar) affords glimpses
Dakota. You can also play air-traffic controller near a cormorant colony can only be visited ships that brought back exotic goods from into this tortured past. The islands heritage
in a re-created flight tower or watch aviation with a park ranger. the East Indies. Nearby youll find the Fisher- is described in detail with a good historical
films in the mega-cinema. Its at Lelystad The visitors centre (%0320-25 45 85; Kitsweg 1; mens Monument, a lonely statue of a woman slide presentation in English. Views from the
Airport 4km east of town (bus 148 from the h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov- in a billowing dress gazing seaward where her lower path hint just how big the waves were
train station). Mar), which is currently enjoying a major loved ones were lost. Marble tablets around the here, at the prow-shaped barrier constructed
facelift, has good wildlife exhibits, free hik- perimeter list the Urk seafarers who never re- from tall wooden pilings. Ironically, since the
Sleeping & Eating ing maps and vending machines for coffee turned name, age and ships ID number and area was drained the foundations have begun
Lelystad is neither blessed with good hotels or and cold drinks. If youre looking to stay near room has been left for further casualties. to dry out. Schokland is sinking but, luckily,
great restaurants; youre better off visiting the the park, Campground het Oppertje (%0320-25 36 Just below the towns lighthouse is Restau- no longer into the sea.
town on a day trip. For a bite to eat while visit- 93; Uilenweg 11, Lelystad; per adult/child/tent 4/2/3.50; rant De Kaap (%68 15 09; www.restaurantdekaap.nl; Wijk Be sure to stop by the church, the Water-
ing the museums, pop next door to Bataviastad, hApr-Sep) is about as close as youre going to 5; mains 10-15), the place to sample Urk speciali- staatkerk, built to replace the one virtually
which has a handful of so-so eateries. get. Its a calm, green waterside site blessed ties, such as smoked gurnard, while taking in washed away in the storm of 1825. Here, as
with a constant sea breeze, which is good for gorgeous views of the harbour and IJsselmeer. in so many Dutch fishing towns, a model
Getting There & Away windsurfing (you can take lessons here) but The interior is richly decorated with maritime ship hangs high above the congregation the
Lelystad station is the terminus of trains com- not always great for pitching a tent. There is ornaments; the hotel rooms (singles/doubles symbol of a union between sea and religious
ing from the south; services include Amster- no public transport to the campground. 35/60) are comfy and quiet. belief.
dam (8.30, 40 minutes, two hourly) and Bus 141 runs between Urk and Zwolle sev- Theres no public transportation to the
Utrecht (10.90, 70 minutes, two hourly). Getting There & Away eral times an hour (1 hours). On Sunday museum; you can ride a bike the 14km north
Flevoland has poor regional bus services. Public transport to the park is nonexistent. To theres only a handful of buses, starting in from Kampen. Turn west off the N50 on the
Bus 150 goes from Lelystad station to Enkhui- get to the visitors centre by car from Amster- the late afternoon. road at Ens and go another 2.5km.
zen via the IJsselmeer dyke road N302 (35 dam, drive the A6 north and take exit No 10
minutes, every two hours). Bus 143 goes east towards Lelystad on the N302 and take a left
to Kampen in Overijssel (one hour, every half- after 5km onto Buizardweg (also signposted
hour). The Qliner bus 315 goes to Groningen Oostvaardersplassen).
(2 hours, hourly).
URK
OOSTVAARDERSPLASSEN NATURE %0527 / pop 16,500
RESERVE This pious village was once a proud little is-
Between Lelystad and Almere lies the marshy land, home to a sizeable fishing fleet and an
realm of Oostvaardersplassen, a 6000-hectare important signal post for ships passing into
reserve of mostly swampy lake that devel- the North Sea. In the 1940s Urk reluctantly
oped virtually by accident. When Flevol- joined the mainland when the surrounding Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
and province opened in 1968 this area was Noordoostpolder was pumped dry, and even restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
earmarked for an industrial estate, but the today some locals pine for the isolation of only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
planners dawdled and nature stepped in. A island life, as tough as it obviously was.
virgin landscape of reeds, willows and rough Although now cut off from the North Sea, everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
grasslands emerged. the town is still a centre of the seafood indus- the above - Do the right thing with our content.
 Lonely Planet Publications
178 www.lonelyplanet.com U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y 179

0 10 km
UTRECHT
Utrecht
0 6 miles

To Amsterdam Muiden
(9km) To
Amstelveen To Amsterdam Zwolle
(7km) (38km)
Naarden
FLEVOLAND

A1
Aalsmeer

A2
E35
On the surface, theres not much to the tiny, petite province of Utrecht, save for charming Hilversum

Utrecht City itself its tree-lined canals and medieval quarter hog the limelight, making GELDERLAND
Loosdrechtse Amersfoort
the province virtually a city-state. Yet, like Doctor Whos Tardis, theres more to discover if Plassen A1
UTRECHT E30 To
you care to poke around. The splendid Kasteel de Haar on the citys doorstep is one of the Breukelen
A27 Apeldoorn
(18km)
countrys most beautiful castles. Amersfoort, a really pretty walled town in the northeast Kasteel
de Haar
corner, oozes medieval character. Then theres Oudewater in the southwest, synonymous Haarzuilens
A30

with witchcraft (Monty Python fans will dig it). Utrecht is also home to palatial mansions to Zeist
To Den Haag Utrecht
the southeast in Doorn, where a defeated German Kaiser went into exile, and in Amerongen, (25km) A12 E30
Bunnik
seat of well-to-do aristocrats since the 13th century.
A12
Doorn
If you like boating and swimming, whats stopping you from visiting the provinces many Oudewater
Nieuwegein
N225 Veenendaal Ede
shallow lakes? For pedal pushers, the countryside is laced with bike paths that can be taken Amerongen
ZUID
at a relaxed clip. HOLLAND Lek
Rhenen
Yes, Utrecht has come some way since James Boswell whinged in 1763, I groaned with E25
UTRECHT

A2

UTRECHT
A27
the idea of living all winter in so shocking a place. To Arnhem
(19km)
A15 E31
To Breda To Eindhoven
(37km) (63km)

UTRECHT CITY from the 11th and 14th centuries. A third canal
%030 / pop 282,000 called the Singel surrounds the old core. Most of
Utrecht is one of the Netherlands oldest cities the interesting bits lie within 500m of the Dom-
(for an outline of its history, see p24) not toren (Cathedral Tower), although the museum
that youd know it when you step off the train quarter is a pleasant 500m stroll south.
and find yourself lost in the maze that is the The historic quarters are to the east of
Hoog Catharijne shopping centre. The Hoog the city centre, but reaching the streets from
is hugeand its attached to the stationand the train station means traversing the Hoog
HIGHLIGHTS it seemingly goes on foreverand ever. Never Catharijne; follow the signs marked Centrum,
Look out towards Amsterdam, 50km fear: its going to be destroyed soon. But fight then gasp for air when you finally get outside.
away, from the top of Utrechts your way through and youll emerge starry-
Domtoren (p180) eyed into a beautiful, vibrant, old-world city Information
centre, ringed by striking 13th-century canal Municipal library (%286 18 00; Oudegracht 167;
Make friends with Miffy at Utrechts
Amersfoort
wharves. The wharves, well below street level, internet per hr 3; h10am-9pm Mon, 11am-6pm Tue-Fri,
Dick Bruna Huis (p180)
are unique to Utrecht, and the streets along- 10am-5pm Sat)
Feel the weight of history at the imposing Kasteel side brim with shops, restaurants and cafs. Post office (Neude 11)
Kasteel de Haar (p185) de Haar
Utrecht In summer, Utrecht is Festival City, hosting Tourist office (%09001288732; www.utrecht-city.com;
Discover the underrated medieval various jazz events (youll see musicians on Vinkenburgstraat 19; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri,
centre at Amersfoort (p186) Oudewater every corner) and the Netherlands Film Festival to 9pm Thu, to 5pm Sat) Get a free map with street index.
in September. Added to that, the citys student
Find out if a witch weighs the same as
gravy at Oudewater (p188)
community of 40,000 is the largest in the coun- Sights
try, making it one very infectious place. Almost all sights within Utrechts old town are
within 10 minutes walking distance of each
Orientation other. In two to three hours you can easily
Two canals bisect Utrecht, the Oudegracht cover the cathedral area and the main canals
and the Nieuwegracht, the old and new canals and have time left over for a museum visit.
 180 U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y 181

DOMTOREN & AROUND Obviously children will get a huge kick out UTRECHT CITY 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
The Domtoren (Cathedral Tower; %233 30 36; www of it all, but so will adults who appreciate

.domtoren.nl; Domplein; adult/child 7.50/4; h10am-5pm superlative graphic design. A B C D
Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) is 112m high, with 465 steps
INFORMATION Domkerk..........................................7 C3 Pieterskerk.....................................15 C3
and 50 bells. Its a tough haul to the top but CANALS ATMs...............................................1 B3 Domtoren........................................8 C3 Universiteitsmuseum......................16 C4
well worth the exertion, given that the tower Scene of many a wedding photo, the photo- 1 Municipal Library..............................2 B3
Tourist Office...................................3 B3
Kloostergang....................................9
Museum Het Catharijneconvent.....10
C3
C4
Utrecht University Ceremonial
Buildings....................................17 C3
gives unbeatable city views; on a clear day you genic bend in the Oudegracht is illuminated Museum voor het
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kruideniersbedrijf........................11 B3 SLEEPING
can see Amsterdam. The guided tour, in Dutch by lamplight in the evening; hundreds sit

Aboriginal Art Museum....................4 C3 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot Grand Hotel Karel V.......................18 B4
and English, is detailed and gives privileged outside cafs here by day. South of this point Centraal Museum............................5 C4 Pierement...................................12 B3 NH Centre Utrecht Hotel................19 C3
De Oude Hortus...........................(see 16) Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum.......13 D4 Park Hotel......................................20 C5
insight into this beautiful structure. is where the canal is at its most evocative, and Dick Bruna Huis...............................6 C4 Nederlands Waterleidingmuseum...14 B2 Strowis Budget Hostel....................21 C2
Finished in the 14th century, the cathedral the streets are quieter, stretching 1km to the
To Kasteel
and its tower are the most striking medieval southern tip of the old town. de Haar (5km);
Loosdrechtse Plassen (10km);
landmarks in a city that once had 40 cathe- A section of the Singel called the Stads- St Breukelen (10km);
ra Amsterdam Van Wijckskade
Singel enstr
Wolv
drals. Appreciate the craft: it took almost buitengracht has its own turn as a lovely canal at

St J
w (37km)
eg Lange Lauwerstr

aco

Korte La
300 years to complete. In 1674 the North on the eastern side of the old quarter, where 2 Lauwerhof

Pred
tr 26
Breeds

bss
14
Sea winds reached hurricane force and blew it follows many parks built on the site of l Biltstr

tr

ikhe
W Vrouwenstr

Oudegracht
ne

uw
n Waterstr

Ca
Tu

erstr
down the cathedrals nave, leaving the tower the old fortifications. Stroll down beside this

rens
tha

r
21

Willemstr

thst
alse str

rijn
or

tr
Da

Boo
and transept behind. canal and back north through Nieuwegracht, Vo

Drift
29

eb
Janskerkh

Vin
of

aan
Back on terra firma, find the row of paving a peaceful stretch of plush canal houses and Potterstr To Malie Hotel (300m);

ken
estr
Lange Vi rg 11 Goesting (1km);
stones that mark the extents of the nave towering, grand old elms. Vredenbu Nobelstr

bu
Amersfoort (24km)
Smakkelaars 27 41 1 Drakenburgstr 19

Kort
rgs

Telings
Veld 36 23 Kro

across this extent is the Domkerk (Cathedral; 231

tr
3 Hoogt mm Nac

e Jan
eN hte
33 ie g

tr
Vrendenburg Town aa
04 03; www.domkerk.nl; Achter de Dom 1; h10am-5pm

str
MUSEUM QUARTER lstr

Rij

uw
tr

Singel
Hall Pietersker

ers
28

nk

eg
tr

ad
Mon-Sat May-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr, 11am-3.30pm Utrecht likes its museums, with 14 of them,

kk
40 s

r
s

hof
tiu Bu

Sta
2

Ba
37 Voe 7 15 r
Re gem

tion

Sta
Sat, 2-4pm Sun), the surviving chancel of the cathe- some quirkier than a bag of racoons such 3 Steenweg

Dompl
12 ig ee

tio
spl

Da
9

Min
er st

n
f

aa
str er

nsp
o
dral, with a few tombs within. as the one devoted to sewerage. erkh 8

als
M
UTRECHT

Jaa

eb
24 K

UTRECHT
17 ali

eu
25

ei
r

esin
38

l
plaats elst es

ali
rbe

rsla

n Nie
Maria Zad str ing
The pick of the litter by far is the Museum

M
Behind the church is the most charming ren

Sp
ge
el

urs
He

an
39 4

rin
l

Kortwstr
pl
ark
component of this ecclesiastical troika: the het Catharijneconvent (%231 38 35; www.catharijne p

gw

u
e To Rietveld-

els

e
42 More ost erstr Schrderhuis

eg
Centraal Str 31

Servaa
burg
Kloostergang, a monastic garden and a peaceful convent.nl; Lange Nieuwstraat 38; adult/child under 17yr Station
Wa
lst 22 Ham (1km);
Doorn (14km)

Oudegr
13

s Bolwer
refuge. A million pigeons and quite a few dope 8.50/5.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun),

Nie
Gee
18 34

uw
smokers cant be wrong. with the finest collection of medieval religious

rteb
10

acht A udegracht

k
35

Lan
EATING str

gr Nieu uweg
ilen

ol
The 19th-century buildings on the west- art in the Netherlands virtually the history Blauw...........................................22 B3 w

ge
Zu

erk

Oude e Werf

Nie
O
an D
Broers........................................(see 19)
ern side of Domplein are the ceremonial build- of Christianity, in fact housed in a Gothic

we
Nie
Caf le Journal..............................23 B3

graracht
grach

uw
ings of Utrecht University, surrounding the former convent and an 18th-century canal- 4 Konnichi Wa.................................24 B3

cht
str

t
Lokaal de Reunie..........................25 C3
old church chapterhouse where the treaty of side house. All but the most jaded art-lover

Cro
Opium......................................... 26 C2 Geertestr

Sin
Utrecht was signed in 1579. The Treaty formed will marvel at the many beautiful illuminated

ese
Oudaen........................................27 B3 16

gel
32 l
ge

laa
Polman's......................................28 C3 in
a military alliance of the northern provinces. manuscripts, carvings and robes. Allow about Rozendaal
gs

n
6 of ee
erkh 5 st
Walk down Voetiusstraat from behind the 1 hours here to digest it all. Bus 2 from Cen- ol

ht
DRINKING
ola ask T

ac
Caf het Hart...............................29 B2 Nic

r
Pelm

ng
cathedral to Pieterskerk, built in 1048 and the traal Station (CS) passes the front entrance.

uite
Caf Ledig Erf.............................. 30 C5

olen
oldest Romanesque church in the Nether- The Centraal Museum (%236 23 62; www.centraal

dsb
Kaf Belgi...................................31 C3
20

Sta
't Oude Pothuys...........................32 C4

weg
lands. Much damage was caused during the museum.nl; Nicolaaskerkhof 10; adult/child under 17yr 8/5; Winkel van Sinkel.........................33 B3 erstr
ouw
storm in 1674 and again during a dodgy 1965 h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a wide-ranging collec- ENTERTAINMENT
Bijlh
30
restoration. Opening hours are sporadic, but tion. It displays applied arts dating back to the 5 Springhaver Theater.....................34 B4 TRANSPORT
Tivoli........................................... 35 C4 Eurolines Bus Stop........................38 A3
try visiting on Friday or Saturday. 17th century, as well as paintings by some of Vredenburg..................................36 B3 Eurolines Office ...........................39 A3
the Utrecht School artists and a bit of De Stijl Local Bus & Tram Station.............40 A3 Ga
ns
Ve
nus
laa
To Stayokay Hostel
Bunnik (2km)
SHOPPING Lovers Utrecht..............................41 B3 str n
DICK BRUNA HUIS to boot including the worlds most extensive Hoog Catharijne Shopping Centre..37 A3 Regional Bus Station.....................42 A3
One of Utrechts favourite sons, Dick Bruna, Gerrit Rietveld collection, a wet dream for all
is honoured at the Dick Bruna Huis (%236 23 61; minimalists. Theres even a 12th-century Viking
www.dickbrunahuis.nl; Agnietenstraat 2; adult/child under longboat that was dug out of the local mud, plus medical maladies. You can find refuge out The Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum (Dutch Railway
17yr 8/5; hTue-Sun 11am-5pm). Bruna is the cre- a sumptuous 17th-century dollhouse. the back in De Oude Hortus, the old botanical Museum; %230 62 06; www.spoorwegmuseum.nl; Malie-
ator of beloved cartoon rabbit Miffy, and she The Universiteitsmuseum (%253 80 08; www garden, along with all the other dentophobes, baanstation; adult/child 12.50/9.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
naturally takes pride of place, along with an .museum.uu.nl; Lange Nieuwstraat 106; adult/child 4/2; wholl be quivering amid venerable trees and features historic locomotives in an old station
extensive overview of Brunas career: from h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a mixed bag and thats plants collected by the Dutch during their building; a high-speed minitrain takes kids
the book covers he designed for the family the toof! Theres a re-created late-19th- world exploits. The garden is an oasis of calm, around the grounds. To get there, take bus 3
publishing company to multimedia demon- century classroom, historic dentistry tools sheltering numerous rare flowers and plants from CS to Maliebaan and walk east for about
strations of his technique and philosophy. (Is it safe?) and way too many models of like the ancient Gingko biloba tree. five minutes.
 182 U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y 183

Rietveld. Inside and out, the entire structure hotel is housed in an atmospheric old building
MIFFY & DICK conforms to the principles of De Stijl archi- built in 1870. The rooms are very comfort-
The illustrator Dick Bruna was born in Utrecht in 1927 and has lived there all his life. His most tecture (see p58) this is the only house in the able, with all the conveniences a business
famous creation is of course Miffy, or Nijntje as shes known in the Netherlands, an adorable world that can make this claim. Only six colours traveller would expect, and the views of the
cartoon rabbit with dots for eyes and a cross for a mouth thats a clear inspiration for Japans are used: red, blue, yellow, white, grey and black. old church square are delectable. The suit-
famous Hello Kitty character. In fact, Utrecht is sometimes besieged by Japanese groupies, eager The form follows function concept has been ably elegant Broers restaurant downstairs is
to catch a glimpse of their 78-year-old Dutch hero. faithfully adhered to, as even the interior walls an added bonus.
As an indication of how popular Miffy is, consider the facts: the 120 childrens books she stars can be moved to alter the floor plan. Malie Hotel (%231 64 24; www.maliehotel.nl;
in have been translated into 40 languages and have sold more than 85 million copies world- A second building, a model apartment (Eras- Maliestraat 2; s/d from 105/125) Tucked away in a
wide. Miffy merchandise has generated hundreds of millions of euros worth of sales. muslaan 9) from 1931, is also open to the public beautiful tree-lined avenue, this elegant and
But theres much more to Dick Bruna than Miffy (wonderful as she is). Our man from Utrecht behind the main house. Its included in the ad- comfortable 19th-century house offers large
has written and illustrated more than 100 picture books and designed more than 2000 book mission to Rietveld-Schrderhuis, and tours rooms and old-world charm. Theres a nice
covers, as well as hundreds of posters, postcards and prints. Today Bruna still rises to go to work of both properties take 90 minutes, starting garden out the back, and all of it away from
early every day at his Utrecht studio and is still every bit as obsessive in his search for perfect on the hour. A shuttle bus leaves the Centraal the city centre for a bit of peace and quiet.
design. As he says, Ill never do 3-D illustration. I havent simplified 2-D enough. Museum for the house at 11.45am, 12.45pm, Park Hotel (%251 67 12; Tolsteegsingel 34; s/d 52/65)
Bruna says he makes pictograms rather than illustrations; that is, pictures with a clear, instant 1.45pm and 2.45pm. Youll sleep right in this comfy eight-room
and universal message. Hes a master of light and shade, manipulating blocks of colour for maxi- guesthouse occupying a canal house. Its not
mum impact, but always with a sense of fun and play even when designing book covers for Activities far from Utrechts buzzing nightlife, and
Susan Sontag or Eldridge Cleaver, hardly the lightest writers around. Lovers Utrecht (%272 01 11; adult 7; h11am-6pm) breakfast can be taken in the pretty garden
From early on in his career, Bruna imposed strict discipline on his art, working with what he offers one-hour canal trips that trace a circular out the back.
calls a minimum of means: a specific thickness of lines, a strict division of typographical areas route through the old town. The landing is on
on the page, and a very specific colour palette. Today, any publisher that reproduces Miffy books Oudegracht just south of Lange Viestraat. You TOP END
must adhere to Brunas colour ideology or else suffer his wrath. Its unsurprising, then, that Bruna can also rent canal bikes (paddleboats; per person per hr Grand Hotel Karel V (%233 75 55; Geertebolwerk 1;
says Piet Mondrian influenced him. Theres even a Miffy book, Miffy at the Gallery, where the little 6) from in front of the municipal library. www.karelv.nl; s/d from 205/225; pai) The lush-
rabbit takes in work by Mondrian and Matisse (another Bruna influence). est accommodation in Utrecht can be found
UTRECHT

UTRECHT
These days, a swelling body of opinion is beginning to see beyond the stigma of pop culture Festivals & Events in this former knights gathering hall from
and childrens work thats applied to Miffy, and see her for what she really is: the ultimate Holland Festival Oude Muziek (Holland Festival of the 14th century. The service and dcor are
statement of intent by an artist whos clearly Mondrians equal. Ancient Music; www.oudemuziek.nl) Held in late August, understated but flawless, and the restaurant
You can learn all of this and more at the Dick Bruna Huis, a worthy shrine to the man and this festival celebrates music from long ago. is excellent. Note that room prices plummet
his art. Nederlands Film Festival (NFF; www.filmfestival.nl) on the weekend.
The Dutch film industry may be tiny, but its output is
generally of good quality. Find out for yourself at the NFF Eating
SMALL MUSEUMS has a colourful collection of musical machines each year in late September, culminating in the awarding Do as the discerning locals do: avoid the clus-
A bit of a surprise in Utrecht, the Aboriginal from the 18th century onwards. These are of the coveted Golden Calf. ter of wharf-side restaurants on the Oude-
Art Museum (%238 01 00; www.aamu.nl; Oudegracht demonstrated with gusto during hourly tours. gracht in the dead centre of the old town near
176; adult/child 8/5; hTue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 11am- Most impressive are the street and fairground Sleeping the town hall. Its a pretty spot better known
5pm), devoted to contemporary Australian organs from around Europe, including gar- BUDGET for its views than culinary delights. Utrechts
Aboriginal art, is sure to delight those bored gantuan burping contraptions fashioned by Strowis Budget Hostel (%238 02 80; Boothstraat 8; best restaurants lie elsewhere.
with Rembrandt and Van Gogh. the Belgian master organ-builder, Mortier. www.strowis.nl; dm from 14, s/d 55; i) Run by a
The Museum voor het Kruideniersbedrijf (Grocery Spread throughout the various levels of an cluey group of ex-squatters, this 17th-century RESTAURANTS
Museum; %231 66 28; Hoogt 6; admission free; h12.30- old water tower, the Nederlands Waterleiding- building near the city centre has been lovingly Opium (%231 55 15; www.restaurant-opium.nl; Voorstraat
4.30pm Tue-Sat), a charming replica of an old gro- museum (Sewer Museum; %248 72 11; www.water restored and converted into a hostel. Its open 80; mains 15-30; hdinner) This is a hot new place
cery store, isnt a museum per se. Its more like leidingmuseum.nl; Lauwerhof 29; adult/child 2/1; h1.30- 24 hours a day and has a cosy bar. It sure beats that will rock your socks off. Its Asian fusion
a sweetshop, but what the hey, youll love it any- 5pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 11am-4pm Sat) takes a good, hard the antiseptic hospital feel of some hostels. cooking matches the gorgeous minimalist
way. Upstairs are original cans and packages look at what happens to water before and after Stayokay Hostel Bunnik (%656 12 77; www interior; think fans, clean angles and plays of
of yesteryear (the museum bit); downstairs humans use it. Theres even a big, blown- .stayokay.com; Rhijnauwenselaan 14; dm from 23) This light. Tempura of softshell crab in sweet chilli
are lovely ladies in old-time aprons selling up photo of a sexy babe bathing (well, it is charming old mansion overlooks a canal on sauce with spring onion and paprika gives you
sweets and tea in decorative containers. As far water-related). The tower itself is ancient and the fringes of a nature reserve, 5km east of the some idea of whats on offer.
as souvenirs go, itll beat your umpteenth clog. fascinating and provides good views. city centre in Bunnik. There are three dining Blauw (%234 24 63; Springweg 64; set menu from
Pick up a block of white liquorice candy to add halls, a traditional bar and a lovely terrace. 19; hdinner) Blauw has worked hard to make
to hot milk an old Dutch tradition. RIETVELD-SCHRDERHUIS Take bus 40, 41 or 43 from CS. Indonesian food trendy in Utrecht or at least
The Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot Piere- Just out of the city, the Rietveld-Schrderhuis popular. Qualitys the key, and the rice table,
ment (National Museum from Musical Clock to Street Organ; (%236 23 10; www.rietveldschroderhuis.nl; Prins Hendriklaan MIDRANGE comprising 14 dishes, is a winner. The dcor,
%231 27 89; www.museumspeelklok.nl; Steenweg 6; 50; adult/child 16/8) is a Unesco-protected land- NH Centre Utrecht Hotel (%231 31 69; www.nh-hotels a mix of nostalgia, and berhip minimalism
adult/child 6/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) mark built in 1924 by Utrecht architect Gerrit .com; Janskerkhof 10; s/d 120; n) This gorgeous packs em in, too.
 184 U T R E C H T U t re c h t C i t y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U T R E C H T A r o u n d U t re c h t C i t y 185

Goesting (%273 33 46; www.restaurantgoesting.nl; ing to a Guardian reader): At the big shop Sample fares and schedules: came involved. The castle owner, Baron Etienne
Veeartsenijpad 150; mains 22-35; hdinner) Celebrities of Sinkels, all things can be bought/Sweet- van Zuylen, spared little expense and had the
and wannabes flock to Goesting to eat fancies ies and shandies, undies for dandies/ Destination Price Duration Frequency entire village moved so thered be adequate
such as spit roast, Dutch asparagus, poached Needles for knitting, and tablets for shitting. () (min) (per hr) space for the park and hunting grounds.
tournedos and tame duck in a crypto-mini- Kaf Belgi (%231 26 66; Oudegracht 196) This The castle is surrounded by a large English
malist, high-society atmosphere. lively bar is an absolute must for beer-lovers. It Amsterdam 6.30 35 4 landscaped garden with broad paths, canal-
Oudaen (%231 18 64; www.oudaen.nl; Oudegracht stocks examples of most of Beneluxs brewers Den Helder 16.80 110 2 like stretches of pond and statues throughout.
99; mains 11-22; hlunch & dinner) The best choice and has a revolving guest-beer policy. It also Groningen 24.50 120 2 The French baroque garden near the entrance
on this popular stretch of the canal. Set in a keeps a large inflatable shark suspended from Maastricht 23.10 120 2 bears the stamp of Hlne de Rothschild, the
restored 14th-century banquet hall, it has a the ceiling to keep watch over its patrons. Rotterdam 8.60 35 2 barons wife and heir of the renowned Roth-
varied menu of salads, steaks and succulent Caf Ledig Erf (%231 75 77; Tolsteegbrug 3) This schild banking family it was her fortune that
seafood such as redfish, grilled tuna and sea classy pub overlooks a confluence of canals Getting Around paid for the 19th-century restoration.
bass. Best of all, it brews its own beer, guaran- at the southern tip of town. Patrons gather Local buses and trams leave from underneath To get here from Utrecht, take the A2 north
teeing high times under the high ceilings. on tables around the oversized chessboards the passage linking CS to Hoog Catharijne. to exit 6 (Maarssen) and drive 2km east to
oPolmans (%231 33 68; www.polmanshuis on the terrace, and the place is always packed Regional buses leave from the adjoining area Haarzuilens. Alternatively, take bus 127 from
.nl; cnr Jansdam & Keistraat; mains 18-25; hlunch & din- in warm weather. Inside, the beer list and the to the south. Utrecht CS towards Breukelen and get off at
ner Mon-Sat) Diners are welcomed in an elegant bar snacks keep everything groovy. Its a cosy Brink, from where its a 15-minute walk.
former ballroom with ceiling frescoes, a hang- and intimate winner. AROUND UTRECHT CITY
over from its days as an elite gentlemens club. t Oude Pothuys (%231 89 70; www.pothuys.nl; Oude- Loosdrechtse Plassen AMERSFOORT
The French and Italian menus are honed for gracht 279) Small and dark, this basement pub The town of Breukelen is 10km northwest of %033 / pop 134,904
the discriminating palate. has nightly music usually jam sessions with Utrecht. Although the town in itself is unre- Beer, wool and tobacco made Amersfoort an
Konnichi Wa (%241 63 88; www.konnichiwa.nl; Maria- locals trying their hand at rock and jazz, but markable, it was actually the inspiration for exceedingly rich town from the 16th century
plaats 9; sushi pieces from 2; hlunch Tue-Sat, dinner) touring pro bands also feature. The sound the New York district of Brooklyn. Breukelen onwards. Well heeled with a touch of the pro-
Expect great sushi, teppanyaki and tempura. system is tops. is also the gateway to the Loosdrechtse Plassen, a vincial, the town has many striking merchants
It also serves takeaway. large series of lakes formed from the flooded homes that have been lovingly restored. And
UTRECHT

UTRECHT
Entertainment digs of peat harvesters. the egg-shaped old town offers quiet, wonder-
CAFS Tivoli (%231 14 91; www.tivoli.nl; Oudegracht 245) This There are all manner of bike paths around fully evocative strolls along canals and narrow
Broers (%234 34 06; www.stadscafe-broers.nl; Janskerkhof former monastery, now a cavernous dance the waters and quite a bit of interesting scen- alleys that still ooze medieval atmosphere.
9; mains 14-23; hlunch & dinner) This place is a styl- hall with medieval chandeliers, remains highly ery. Parts of the lakes are desolate, while others Many tourists pass Amersfoort by, but drop
ish, modern version of a brown caf, with good popular and a fixture on Utrechts student- are surrounded by lovely homes on small in if you possibly can. Its a seriously charm-
views. It serves basic dishes such as pasta and oriented music scene, whether its for old islands joined to the road by little bridges. ing place.
steak, and theres live music some nights. rockers like REM, DJs or big-band jazz. The best way to visit is by bike from
Caf le Journal (%236 48 39; Neude 32-34; mains 11- Vredenburg (%231 45 44; Vredenburgpassage 77) Utrecht. Follow the signs to Breukelen. Other- Information
22; hlunch & dinner) This classy grand caf sits on The main performing arts complex, with su- wise, its just a short run by train to Breukelen Post office (Utrechtseweg 8)
a very busy square. Unsurprisingly, then, its perb acoustics. A quick flip through its diverse from Utrecht CS (2.60, 11 minutes, three Telstar Telecom (71 Kamp; internet per hr 4.50)
a hive of activity in summer. monthly calendar might reveal flamenco, per hour). Tourist office (%09001122364; www.amersfoortyour
Lokaal de Reunie (%231 01 00; www.lokaaldereunie marionette theatre, Ellington or Weber. way.nl; Stationsplein 9-11; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
.nl; t Wed 3A; mains 12-30; hlunch & dinner) One of Springhaver Theater (%231 37 89; www.springhaver Kasteel de Haar 10am-2pm Sat)
many atmospheric cafs near the cathedral .nl; Springweg 50-52) This Art Deco complex Feast your senses on one of the most imposing
tower, De Reunie is distinguished by its at- houses intimate cinemas that screen art-house castles in the country, Kasteel de Haar (%030-677 Sights & Activities
tractive, airy interior. and independent films. 85 15; www.kasteeldehaar.nl; Kasteellaan 1; adult/child 8/5; Much of Amersfoorts appeal comes from
h10am-5pm), which was restored in a fit of wandering the old centre, which has a couple
Drinking Getting There & Away nostalgia little more than a century ago, long of attractive little canals and more than 300
Caf het Hart (%231 97 18; www.hethart.com; Voorstraat Utrecht is a travel hub: train lines and motor- after its Gothic turrets ceased to have any pre-18th-century buildings.
10) This is the apex of the A-list of the Utrecht ways converge on the city from all directions. defensive purpose. But architect PJ Cuypers
bar scene, with bleeding-edge beats plus stacks (of Rijksmuseum fame) misjudged the weight MUSEUMS
of magazines and board games. Try Trivial BUS on the centuries-old foundations; big cracks Mondriaanhuis (%462 01 80; Kortegracht 11; www
Pursuit with questions in Dutch after a few See p301 for details information about inter- can be seen above moat level. .mondriaanhuis.nl; admission 3.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri,
9% Belgian beers. national bus services. What you see now is a spiffed-up version of 1-5pm Sat & Sun) The famous De Stijl artist Piet
Winkel van Sinkel (%230 30 30; www.dewinkelvan the fortress as it was believed to look around Mondrian was born in Amersfoort. This small
sinkel.nl; Oudegracht 158) This early-19th-century TRAIN 1500, but (understandably) equipped with all but absorbing museum, in the house where
building houses a grand caf, a nightclub Lockers are by platform 4 on the main con- the creature comforts available in the late 19th he was born, honours his life and work with
and a restaurant in a divine interior. It was course. Utrecht is the national hub for Dutch century, such as electric lighting and running a detailed retrospective of prints, reproduc-
once the Netherlands first department store, rail services, so youll probably change trains water. The project was so extensive that the tions and some originals, as well as music CDs
inspiring this popular Dutch ditty (accord- here at some point. church and the nearby hamlet of Haarzuilens be- inspired by his art.
 186 U T R E C H T A m e r s f o o r t www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com U T R E C H T D o o r n 187

AMERSFOORT 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
can wander enjoyably around this much- nostalgic all at once), you know youre back-
heralded microbrewery and try one of the ing a winner. The classy international menu
A B C D five beers on tap. will have you enthralled, especially the quail
6
INFORMATION
Post Office.............................1 A3
Museum Flehite.................9 B1
Onze Lieve Vrouwe
and water cherry with mango chutney, as will
4
Telstar Telecom..................... 2 D2 Toren...........................10 B2 Sleeping the large TV in the dining room that allows

Kleine
1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Sint Joriskerk...................11 C2 Logies de Tabaksplant (%472 97 97; www.tabaksplant you to watch the chefs at work.
Sta

Spui
Armando Museum.................3 B2 SLEEPING .nl; Coninckstraat 15; s/d from 47/69) This small hotel is
dsr

't Zan
Getting There & Around
ing

d Drie Ringen Bierbrouwerij.......4 B1 Logement de Gaaper.......12 C2

9 Kamperbinnenpoort...............5 C2 Logies de Tabaksplant.....13 D2
just beyond the old town gate of Kamperbin-
Bre
estr
Hav
Koppelpoort...........................6 B1 nenpoort. The rooms are very smart, cheery, Sample train fares and schedules:
Mondriaanhuis......................7 C3 EATING
To GWK Currency
ik
Monnikendam.......................8 C3 Marinhof........................14 B3
full of good vibes and so clean you could eat
Stadhuis
Exchange (500m); off the floor. The owner of a tobacco planta- Destination Price Duration Frequency
Langegracht
Tourist Office (500m); Ha W
ev
vik
Train Station van Asc Mu tion built this heritage-listed building. () (min) (per hr)

er
Wijck h van urh

ss
lstr
(500m) uiz

in
str Mole 3 Achter het
Logement de Gaaper (%453 17 95; www.degaaper

de
Appelmarkt

ge
nstr en

en
Mark thalstr oude Stadhuis

Coninckstr
Lav
13
.nl; Hof 39; s/d from 66/81) Its not at all bad, this Amsterdam 7.10 40 4

eg
ste
Groenmarkt

ind
2 11 Kamp 2
one. Home to a pharmacy in the 19th century, Apeldoorn 6.80 25 2

W
5
Sint Jo
Kro

Hof
risstr this smartly renovated hotel occupies a prime Utrecht 3.90 15 4
mm

12
Westsingel

10
spot on the main square, and all 11 front
estr

Lieve str
ge
Vrouwekerkhof Lan
rooms have great views of Sint Joriskerk. Theres a bicycle shop at the train station.
Beestenmarkt
Utrechtsestr
Some of the original structure is visible inside
the hotel, but the emphasis is on modern DOORN
Varkensmarkt
comfort. %0343 / pop 10,399
Ko tegra
Ko

eg
rte cht

ew
r

chts
gra

Utre 7
1
el Around 20km southeast of Utrecht lies
cht

Het g To Apeldoorn (45km);

sin
Bergpaviljoen Zu
id Amsterdam (52km) Eating Doorn, a wealthy little burg with a claim to
3 Koestr
Marinhof (%463 29 79; www.marienhof.nl; Kleine Haag an oddment in 20th-century Dutch history:
14 ing
dsr 2; mains 19-36; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Enjoy haute Huis Doorn (%42 10 20; www.huisdoorn.nl; Langbroek-
Sta
UTRECHT

UTRECHT
Kleine

8 cuisine and classy service in one of the regions erweg 10; adult/child 5.50/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-
eg
w
se

best restaurants. The charismatic dining hall 5pm Sun 15 Mar31 Oct, 1-5pm Tue-Sun 1 Nov14 Mar),
Haag
em

Stad
To Utrecht sring
nh

(24km)
is in an atmospheric former monastery with a 14th-century castle that was turned into
Ar

lavish interiors, courtyard gardens and even a sort of indefensible mansion during the
Armando Museum (%461 40 88; www.armando Amersfoorts most charming spot. A flower a little culinary museum. 1700s. It had numerous owners during its
museum.nl; Langegracht 36; admission 3.50; h11am-5pm market is held here on Friday morning. Het Bergpaviljoen (%461 50 00; www.bergpaviljoen time, but none of them was more infamous
Tue-Fri, Sat noon-5pm) The painter, writer, violin- Amersfoorts surviving old church is the .nl; Utrechtseweg 180; mains 12-26; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner than Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany, who
ist, and documentary filmmaker Armando Sint Joriskerk (Hof 1; admission 1; h2-4.30pm Mon-Fri Mon-Sat) When you see the expansive terrace inhabited Huis Doorn in exile from 1920
was one of the major artists to emerge from Jul & Aug). It was rebuilt in a sort of Gothic- and retro futuristic interior (minimalist and until his death in 1941.
the postwar era in the Netherlands. His work cum-aircraft-hangar style in the 16th century
is strongly antiwar, derived from his expe- after the original Romanesque church burnt
riences growing up in Amersfoort during down (obviously, insuring Dutch churches WITCHERY
WWII. At this evocative museum, housed in has never been a lucrative proposition). During the horrific witch-hunts of the 16th century, close to a million women all over Europe
a former church, you can see examples from The collections at the Museum Flehite were executed on suspicion of being witches burnt, drowned or otherwise tortured to death.
his paintings, drawings, sculptures, writings (%461 99 87; Westsingel 50; adult/child 5/3; h11am- Weighing was one of the more common methods of determining witchery, as popular belief
and films. 6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) cover local geol- held that any woman who was too light for the size of her frame was obviously a witch (because
ogy, history and decorative arts. The building hags like that have no soul). A woman who weighed the proper amount was too heavy to ride
OLD TOWN is attractively set at a junction of canals, a broom and thus was not a witch. (Fans of the movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail will be
Zuidsingel is a fine place to start: the inner ring and you enter the museum courtyard over familiar with the procedure.) Women who passed the weight test were given a certificate, good
on the north side of town along Muurhuizen is a bridge. for life, proclaiming them to be human.
quaint and good for walks. Langestraat is the The town has three surviving gateways, Women under suspicion were also required to walk over burning coals (if their feet didnt
main shopping strip. either to the city roads or over the canals. The blister, they were witches) or were dropped into the lake if you sank you were human, if you
Onze Lieve Vrouwe Toren (Lieve Vrouwekerkhof; Koppelpoort guards the north and was built floated you were a witch. Needless to say, all of this was grossly unfair if you managed to
adult/child 5/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat Jul & Aug) is in the 15th century, the Kamperbinnenpoort is make it over the coals, your feet would be charred to the stumps. If you sank, you drowned.
the surviving 15th-century Gothic tower at the eastern side and dates from the 13th You win, you lose.
of the church that used to stand on this century, while the picturesque Monnikendam Oudewater emerges with some honour here. No-one was ever proved to be a witch in the
spot. Like so many of the Netherlands to the southeast was built in 1430. town and this is held up as a symbol of the honesty of the locals, as they refused to take bribes
churches, it was destroyed by tragedy Possibly the most fun you will have in to rig the weights. Its also seen as the first stirrings of people power and a turn against the
in this case a gunpowder explosion in 1787. Amersfoort is touring Drie Ringen Bierbrouwerij church, which was behind the witch hunts.
The square in front, Lieve Vrouwekerkhof, is (%465 65 75; Kleine Spui 18; h1-7pm Thu-Sat). You
 Lonely Planet Publications
188 U T R E C H T A m e r o n g e n www.lonelyplanet.com

Theres a fine collection of German art OUDEWATER

that it seems the Kaiser brought with him %0348 / pop 9948
from various German palaces. Afterwards, Theres only one real reason to visit the sweet
stroll the grounds and ponder the fate of the little town of Oudewater in the provinces
Kaiser, who had been allowed into exile by the southwest: witchcraft. Until the 17th cen-
Dutch as long as he remained under house tury the Heksenwaag (Witches Weigh-House; %56
arrest (some house, eh?). Events throughout 34 00; www.hekenswag.nl; Leeuweringerstraat 2; adult/child
the year recall his highness: at Christmas you 1.50/0.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) in the
can drop by for gluhwein (mulled wine) and town centre was thought to have the most
lebkuchen (spiced biscuits). accurate scales in the land; women came
Bus 50 from Utrecht CS makes the 20km from all over the land to be weighed here,
journey to Doorn (50 minutes) every 30 min- on suspicion of being witches (see the boxed
utes. The castle is right near the bus stop. text, p187).
The house has a modest display of witch-
AMERONGEN craft history in the loft upstairs, and at the
%0343 / pop 5169 end of your visit youll be invited to step onto
The countryside around the small town of the old scale. If you feel light on your feet its
Amerongen on the Nederrijn river is dotted because your certificaet van weginghe (weight
with old wooden tobacco-drying sheds. Its certificate) makes your weight shrink
also home to Kasteel Amerongen (%45 42 12; www an old Dutch pound is 10% heavier than to-
.kasteel-amerongen.nl; Drostestraat 20; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, days unit.
1-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), a fortified castle built in Oudewater is on the route of bus 180, which
the 13th century that took on its present twee runs in either direction between Gouda (22
appearance in the late 1600s; it was originally minutes) and Utrecht CS (40 minutes) every
owned by Europes old aristocracy. 30 minutes.
UTRECHT

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 Lonely Planet Publications
189

Zuid Holland &

Zeeland
These two provinces are home to some of the strongest imagery and biggest clichs
associated with the Netherlands. You want dykes? Uh-huh. Windmills? Yeah. Tulips? OK.
Well, alright fellas, lets gooooo

The Keukenhof gardens are a place of pilgrimage for lovers of the lancelike leaves and
bell-shaped, varicoloured flower of the tulip, and the Zuid (South) Holland area is great for
biking and hiking, with trails and paths everywhere. Meanwhile, the built-up beaches of
Noordwijk aan Zee and south to Scheveningen are popular with locals.

Further south, Zeeland (Sea Land) is the dyke-protected province that people often as-
sociate with the Netherlands when theyre not thinking of tulips, cheese and windmills.
Middelburg is the centre, with a serenity belying its proximity to the tragedies that spawned
the Delta Project.

Zuid Hollands major cities are the biggest attractions: theres Leiden, with its university
culture and old town (and proximity to the bulb fields); Den Haag, with its museums, stately
air and kitsch beach; charming, beautiful Delft, the home of Jan Vermeer; and mighty Rotter-
dam, blessed with an edgy urban vibe, gritty cultural scene, and innovative architecture.

Several smaller places are also worth your time: Gouda is a perfect old canal town, while
Dordrecht has its own surprises for humans and sheep alike. Just east and south of Dordrecht
is Biesbosch National Park, a sprawling natural area along the border with Noord Brabant.

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

HIGHLIGHTS Keukenhof
Gardens
Answer the question Can you dance to
architecture? in Rotterdam (p211)
Den Haag
Make like Tiny Tim at the Keukenhof Delft
Gardens (p195)
Rotterdam
Find out if waterfalls flow backwards at
Den Haags Escher in het Paleis
Museum (p198) Delta
Project
Look for girls wearing pearl earrings in
old-world Delft (p204)
Walk on water at Zeelands Delta
Project (p228)
 190 Z U I D H O L L A N D Le i d e n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D Le i d e n 191

0 20 km
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND 0 12 mi Wealth from the linen industry buttressed nicipal Museum, with an assortment of works
To Alkmaar To Hoorn Leidens growing prosperity, and during the by old masters, as well as period rooms and
(11km) A8 (18km)
17th century the town produced several bril- temporary exhibits. The 1st floor has been
A7
liant artists, most famously Rembrandt van restored to the way it would have looked
To
Haarlem AMSTERDAM Sneek Rijn better known by his first name alone. when Leiden was at the peak of its cloth trade
(86km)
A9
A10 Almere
Rembrandt was born in Leiden in 1606, and prosperity.
remained here for 26 years before achieving Leidens carefully restored windmill, De
Amstelveen
Keukenhof A4 Aalsmeer
A1 fame in Amsterdam. Valk (Falcon; %516 53 53; http://home.wanadoo.nl
To
Noordwijk aan Zee Hilversum
Zwolle /molenmuseum; 2E Binnenvestgracht 1; adult/under 15yr
A44
Katwijk aan Zee E35 (62km)
Orientation 3/1.70; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), has been
Leiden Alphen A27
a/d Rijn
A2
UTRECHT Old Leiden is a compact town. From Cen- carefully restored; its construction and opera-
Amersfoort
Den Haag
Scheveningen
E19 Utrecht traal Station a five-minute walk brings you tion highlight the wonders of preindustrial
A28 To Arnhem
NORTH SEA (The Hague)
A12 E30 (41km) to Beestenmarkt. Haarlemmerstraat and Bre- engineering. There are many presentations,
A12 A12 estraat are the towns pedestrian arteries, and including one that laments that local boy
Monster E30 Nieuwegein
Oudewater
Hoek van Holland
Delft Gouda most sights are within five minutes of either. Rembrandt, as a millers son, didnt paint
E25
A13 The town is bisected by many waterways, the many windmills. The upper levels afford an
To Arnhem
A20 ROTTERDAM A27 E25 (40km) most notable being the Oude Rijn and also inspired view of the old town.
Kinderdijk A2 the Nieuwe Rijn, which meet at Hoogstraat Leiden University was an early centre for
A15 Tiel
ZUID Gorinchem A15 to form a canal simply called the Rijn. Dutch medical research, and the Museum Boer-
HOLLAND
Dordrecht Zaltbommel
haave (National Museum of the History of Science & Medicine;
A29
Biesbosch Information %521 42 24; www.museumboerhaave.nl; Lange St Agniet-
A16 National Park
E311 Den BOOKSHOPS enstraat 10; adult/under 19yr 6/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat,
Schouwen- E19
Duiveland A59 Bosch
To
Joho Company (%516 12 77; www.joho.nl; Stille Rijn noon-5pm Sun) gathers together five centuries of
Westerschouwen
Delta Project
Zierikzee A4 Willemstad Nijmegen 8-9) Travel books, maps, travel gear and supplies, and pickled organs, surgical tools and skeletons
A59 A261 (34km)
Waterland
Neeltje Jans Oo Breda NOORD BRABANT Internet access. in its Anatomy Theatre (its morbid, but just
Noord- Tilburg
Domburg
Beveland
ste
rs
A17 try to look away). The museum is housed in
ch A2
Walcheren
Veere eld
e
E312 INTERNET ACCESS the hospital where the chronically ill Herman
Roosendaal
Middelburg
Goes A58 E25 Centrale Bibliotheek (Central Library; %514 99 43; Boerhaave taught medicine from his sick-bed
Bergen op Zoom
Vlissingen Zuid-Beveland
A58 Kruiningen Nieuwstraat; internet per hr 3; h10am-6pm) until his death in 1738.
We
ster E312 Eindhoven Ortes Telecom (Steenstraat; internet per hr 3) A stuffed elephant greets you at Natura-
sch Perkpolder
A4 lis Nationaal Natuurhistorisch Museum (National
eld To Antwerpen
Zeeuws-Vlaanderen e To
IJzendijk ZEELAND
(Anvers)
(37km) A67 Venlo POST Museum of Natural History; %568 76 00; www.naturalis
(51km)
Post office (%514 17 88; Breestraat 46; h9am-6pm .nl; Darwinweg 2; adult/child 9/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun).
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Sluis

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

To Antwerpen
(Anvers)
(19km)
Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat) This is a large and well-funded collection
BELGIUM To Antwerpen
(Anvers)
of all the usual dead critters, as well as the
(60km) TOURIST INFORMATION 1,000,000-year-old Java Man, discovered by
Tourist office (%09002222333; www.leidenpromotie Dutch anthropologist Eugne Dubois in 1891.
.nl; Stationsweg 2D; h11am-5.30pm Mon, 9.30am- This striking building is 300m west of the
Netherlands oldest university (and 20,000 5.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat) train station.
ZUID HOLLAND students), the alma mater of Ren Descartes.
The university was a gift from Willem the Sights Activities
Along with Noord (North) Holland and Silent for withstanding two Spanish sieges in Most of the sights are concentrated within Rent a canoe or kayak from Botenverhuur t
Utrecht, Zuid Holland is part of the Rand- 1574. It was a terrible time, ending when the Leidens pretty canal belt and are best experi- Galgewater (%514 97 90; www.galgewater.nl; Galgewater
stad, the economic and population centre of Sea Beggars arrived and repelled the invaders. enced on foot. 44a; per hr 5; h11am-6pm Oct-May, 11am-10pm Jun-Sep)
the Netherlands. Two of the nations most According to lore, the retreating Spanish legged The Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (National Museum and explore the canals.
important cities are here: Den Haag, the seat it so quickly, they abandoned a kettle of hutspot of Antiquities; %516 31 63; www.rmo.nl; Rapenburg 28; adult/
of the royal family and the government; and (hotchpotch) today its still a staple of Dutch under 18yr 7.50/5.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Tours
Rotterdam, Europes busiest port. menus in restaurants, and in homes. Sun) has a hieroglyph collection, and 94 human Rederij Rembrandt (% 513 49 38; www.rederij
Decades later, Protestants fleeing persecu- and animal mummies. The entrance hall con- -rembrandt.nl; Beestenmarkt; adult/child 5/3) gives one-
LEIDEN tion elsewhere in the Low Countries, France tains the Temple of Taffeh, a gift from Egypt in hour boat tours of Leiden at various times
%071 / pop 118,500 and England arrived in Leiden to a some- 1969 for Dutch help in saving ancient monu- throughout the year. Check the schedules at
Lovely Leiden is a refreshing, vibrant town, what warmer welcome. Most notable was the ments when the Aswan High Dam was built. the dock or on the website.
patterned with canals and attractive old build- group led by John Robinson, who would sail The 17th-century Lakenhal (Cloth Hall; %516 There are longer, three-hour cruises of the
ings. It also has a few claims to fame: its to America and into history as the pilgrims 53 60; www.lakenhal.nl; Oude Singel 28-32; adult/under waterways and lakes around Leiden. Ask the
Rembrandts birthplace, and its home to the aboard the Mayflower. 18yr 4/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) houses the Mu- tourist office for details.
 192 Z U I D H O L L A N D Le i d e n www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D Le i d e n 193

0 300 m
LEIDEN 0 0.2 mi
PILGRIMS PROGRESS

To Stayokay To
A Noordwijk Main
B C D In 1608 a group of Calvinist Protestants split from the Anglican Church and left persecution in
(6km) Post Office
Centraal (300m) Nottinghamshire, England, for a journey that would span decades and thousands of miles. Trav-
Station INFORMATION
Centrale Bibliotheek..................... 1 D4
30 13 Joho Company.............................2 C3
elling first to Amsterdam under the leadership of John Robinson, they encountered theological
1
eg
Ortes Telecom..............................3 B2 clashes with local Dutch Protestants.
lw

Post Office...................................4 B3
In Leiden they found a more liberal atmosphere, thanks to the university and some like-minded
ho

Tourist Office...............................5 B2
hip

Stationspl
Calvinists who already lived there. They also found company with refugees who had escaped from
Sc

St a

t ion

M
ole Maresingel
persecution elsewhere. However, the groups past was to catch up with them. In 1618 James I of
s
we g

nw

e r-
erf England announced he would assume control over the Calvinists living in Leiden. In addition, the
rg
5 bu
s
7 local Dutch were becoming less tolerant of religious splinter groups.
jn
To Naturalis - Ri The first group of English left Leiden in 1620 for Delfshaven in what is today Rotterdam, where
Nationaal Natuurhistorisch
Lammermarkt 28
Museum (300m) they bought the Speedwell with the intention of sailing to the New World. Unfortunately, the
rkt

l 22 estgr
gersinge
estenma

v Langegr
Rijnsbur nen leaky Speedwell didnt live up to its name; after several attempts to cross the Atlantic, the group

Lange Scheistr
Bin

2 2e
gave up and, against their better judgment, sailed into Southampton in England. After repairs
Nieuwe Be

to their ship and a thwarted attempt to restart their journey, the group joined the much more
Steenstr

3 8
Morssi

25
Oude Sin seaworthy Mayflower in Dartmouth and sailed, as it were, into history as the Pilgrims.
tr 15 gel
rms
ngel

Na Beestenmarkt Oude Vest This legendary voyage was actually just one of many involving the Leiden group. It wasnt
Oude Ve
st until 1630 that most had made their way to the American colonies founded in what is today
11

Lange Mare
Morsstr
20 Caeciliastr New England. Some 1000 people made the voyages, including a number of Dutch who were

Turfmarkt considered oddballs for their unusual beliefs.
10
In Leiden today, traces of the Pilgrims are elusive. The best place to start is the Leiden Ameri-
Blauwpoortsbrug 29 Lange St Agnietenstr
Galgewater Apot Haa can Pilgrim Museum (%512 24 13; www.pilgrimhall.org/leidenmuseum.htm; Beschuitsteeg 9; admission 2;
Rijn hek rlem
3 Galgewater Rijn ers
dijk me h1-5pm Wed-Sat), a fascinating restoration of a house occupied around 1610 by the soon-to-be
6 rstr
Witte

Boom Pilgrims. The house itself dates from 1375, but the furnishings are from the Pilgrims period. Note
st

To 23 markt
en

the tiles on the floor, originals from the 14th century. Pick up a walking-tour brochure, which
uw

De Noordduinen 2
(8km) No o r d e i n d e Stille
Vro

26
21 4 16 Rijn helps you explore the surviving parts of 17th-century Leiden.

Rembrandtstra

14
Sin

18 Oude
Rijn Rijn
gel

Oude
str

Lange Brug
Hoog

Festivals & Events

at

Burcht
Doelens canalside rooms border on palatial
Ste rre pad
Br
ee

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Leiden grinds to a halt in early October for opulence, with all the trimmings, and even
Scho

str

19
Botenverhuur 't Galgewater.........6 A3
Leidens Ontzet, commemorating the day the the more basic options have bathroom, phone
olst

vd

De Valk Windmill.........................7 B2 12
4 Lakenhal.......................................8 B2
rst 1 Spanish-caused starvation ended in 1574. The and TV. Rooms come in three flavours: basic,
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Leiden American Pilgrim Museum..9 D4 oo

Ch gst
Museum Boerhaave................... 10 C3 rk Bur revelry is undiminished even four centuries standard and suite.
of erske
Rederij Rembrandt......................11 B3 kerkh Piet gst
Hotel Mayflower (%514 26 41; Beestenmarkt 2; www
Witte

rs
bru later, and there is much eating of the ceremonial
Ni

Piete
Rapen Rapenbu

Ni
Ni we

t orn
eu

Rijksmuseum van Oudheden......12 B4 ols

e

Ko
eu

ws
u

W
hutspot, herring and white bread. But more than .hotelmayflower.nl; s/d 65/80) These spacious rooms
w

27
tr
Singe

Rapen

9
burg

SLEEPING
Ri

anything, consumption focuses on beer sand- are bright and inviting, with comfy furnish-
jn

Golden Tulip Leiden Centre........13 B1 Klokst

l

burg

Hotel de Doelen.........................14 B3 wiches (hold the bread) and a drunken time is ings and lots of trimmings. Apartments are
Ri
jn
rg

Hotel Mayflower........................15 B2
Hotel Nieuw Minerva.................16 C3 had by all especially the night before. also available.

Hortus 17
Pension Witte Singel.................. B6 Hotel Nieuw Minerva (%512 63 58; www.nieuw
ig
Hoo

Botanicus
Hoge
EATING
24
woerd Sleeping minerva.nl; Boommarkt 23; s/d 75/100) The Minerva
5 Frezza........................................18 A3 Steenschuur
Noodl........................................ 19 C4
BUDGET has a traditional look and a quiet canalside
Stayokay Noordwijk (%0252-37 29 20; www.stayokay location, and its rooms are comfortable and
Kaiserstr

Restaurant In den Doofpot.........20 B3

Restaurant 't Einde.....................21 A3 Werfpark .com/noordwijk; Langevelderlaan 45; dm from 20) The well equipped. If you want a bit more bang
Vliet
Vliet

Stadscaf van der Werff.............22 B2 Garen-

Verboden Toegang................(see 24) markt hostel is next to a popular beach. Take buses for your buck, try the luxury suites, such
Vliet

Viva Italia...................................23 B3 Raamst 57 or 90 (last bus at 11pm) to Sancta Maria as the evocatively named Room of Roses
DRINKING hospital and walk for 10 minutes. and Room of Angels. The dcor in these
Caf L'Esperance........................24 B5
JazzCaf the Duke .....................25 B2 Wit
te
Wit
te S r De Noordduinen (%402 52 95; www.tours.nl/noord is full-on mock baroque, and it makes a
Sing inge reg
North End...................................26 B3 17 el l Ge duinen; Campingweg 1; per camp site from 16.50; hApr- suitable backdrop for canoodling (and any-
Jan van Houtkade
ENTERTAINMENT
Zoeterwoudse Singel
Oct) The closest camping ground, 8km to the thing else).
6 Caf de WW.............................. 27 C4 west. Take buses 31 or 41. Pension Witte Singel (%512 45 92; www.pension
In Casa.......................................28 C2 Zoeterwoudse
Kijkhuis......................................29 C3 ws.demon.nl; Witte Singel 80; s/d with shared bathroom 41/62,
TRANSPORT
MIDRANGE d with bathroom 76) Fresh, spacious rooms with
Bus Station.................................30 A1 Hotel de Doelen (%512 05 27; www.dedoelen.com; Rapen- large windows overlooking most agreeable
burg 2; s/d with bathroom from 75/95) Some of the scenery: the perfectly peaceful Singel canal
 194 Z U I D H O L L A N D Le i d e n Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D A r o u n d Le i d e n 195

in the front and a typically Dutch garden out It often has live music, with big and little AROUND LEIDEN tal. However, that year, Louis Bonaparte in-
the back. men belting out big fat tunes to big crowds Keukenhof Gardens stalled his government in Amsterdam. Eight
in a thin space. Near Lisse, between Haarlem and Leiden, a years later, when the French had been ousted,
TOP END JazzCaf the Duke (%566 15 85; Oude Singel 2) No beautiful enigma unfurls for just two months the government returned to Den Haag, but the
Golden Tulip Leiden Centre (%408 35 00; Schipholweg 3; windows, but loads of yellowing, vintage jazz each year: the blooming of millions of multi- title of capital remained with Amsterdam.
s/d 150/170; ain) These large and modern posters on the walls. Their motto is, If we coloured tulip, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs Den Haag today is a stately, regal place
rooms are aimed at business travellers who are dont have it, you dont need it. Its true: you at the Keukenhof gardens (%0252-46 55 55; www filled with palatial embassies and mansions,
happy to trade architectural charm for ameni- dont need windows to enjoy this atmospheric .keukenhof.nl; Stationsweg 166A, Lisse; adult/child 4-11yr green boulevards and parks, prestigious art
ties. Youll get all the charm you can handle den, with its fine live jazz every night, and 12.50/5.50; h8am-7.30pm late Mar-May, cashier to 6pm). galleries, a mouthwatering culinary scene,
out on the towns pretty canalside streets. suitably appreciative crowds. The gardens stretch on and on, and there are a clutch of tasty museums, and some throb-
North End (%512 1541; www.north-end.nl; Noor- greenhouses full of more delicate varieties of bing nightlife. Plus its attached to the seaside
Eating deinde 55) This superb English-style pub is full flowers besides the ephemeral tulips. Youll suburb of Scheveningen, worth a visit for its
Frezza (Rembrandtstraat 2; tapas from 4; hdinner Wed- of warmth, cosy nooks and character. It comes forgive the presence of thousands of other lively kitsch and long stretch of beach.
Sun) Frezza is a bit of a Leiden hot spot, finding complete with its very own bourbon alley (not tourists little can detract from the rainbow In the 20th century Den Haag became the
an audience with its delectable selection of very English, granted, but a welcome selection of natural beauty. Wandering about can easily home of several international legal entities
Mediterranean delights, including tapas. of booze all the same) and patented beer strip- take half a day. From the edges of the gardens, including the UNs International Court of Jus-
Viva Italia (%514 88 18; Kort Rapenburg 17; mains penkaart (strip card). you can see the stark beauty of the commercial tice and the Academy of International Law.
16-20; hlunch & dinner) This classy and fine Ital- bulb fields stretching in all directions.
ian joint, with its luxurious dcor (including Entertainment There are several options for reaching the Orientation
white-leather couches, no less) and fine serv- LIVE MUSIC park see the boxed text, below, for details. Den Haag is spread over a fairly large area.
ice, dishes up upmarket vittles like veal with In Casa (%512 49 38; www.danssalonincasa.nl; Lammer- Centraal Station is near the heart of town;
rolled-in Parma ham and basil pesto. markt 100) This place is huge and, from the DEN HAAG ( THE HAGUE) Hollands Spoor station (HS), on the main line
Verboden Toegang (%514 33 88; www.verboden outside, looks as though it has no atmosphere %070 / pop 472,100 from Amsterdam to Rotterdam and destina-
toegang.nl; Kaiserstraat 7; mains 13-20; hdinner) This but appearances can be deceiving. It has live Den Haag, officially known as s-Gravenhage tions further south, is 1km south of the centre.
casual, elegant, wood-panelled restaurant music, a dance floor, comedy and a variety (the Counts Hedge), is the Dutch seat of Most streets heading west reach Scheveningen,
doesnt take itself too seriously (the name of other events. government and home to the royal family. 4km away, but its more pleasantly approached
means access forbidden). The grubs top- Caf de WW (%512 59 00; Wolsteeg 6) Live rock is Prior to 1806, Den Haag was the Dutch capi- at the end of a 15- to 20-minute bike ride that
notch, with an emphasis on seafood try the played here to a young crowd in the over-loud,
butterfish in white wine. hormonally charged atmosphere on Fridays.
Restaurant In Den Doofpot (%512 24 34; www On other nights theres a DJ. TULIPS THE BELOVED BULB
.indendoofpot.nl; Turfmarkt 9; mains 12-45; hdinner) Tulips have captured the fancy of the Dutch for centuries. In fact, at times this love has become
Theres little chance youre going to walk CINEMAS an absolute mania.
away hungry from this elegant place. It serves Kijkhuis (%566 15 85; Vrouwenkerksteeg 10) Has an The first stop on any tulip tour is the Keukenhof, the worlds largest flower garden, located
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

twists on Dutch home-style cooking with alternative film programme. between the towns of Hillegom and Lisse, south of Haarlem. The 32-hectare park attracts a stag-
elaborate French touches and other less bulky gering 800,000 people for a mere eight weeks every year. Natures talents are combined with
options. Getting There & Away artificial precision to create a garden where millions of tulips and daffodils bloom, perfectly in
Restaurant t Einde (%512 21 15; Rembrandtstraat Centraal Station is bright and modern. It has all place and exactly on time.
2; mains from 16; hdinner Tue-Sun) Small and so- the usual conveniences, and the lockers are near The broad stripes of colour are a spectacular feast for the eye. Postcards just dont do justice.
phisticated, with an excellent menu: exquisite platform No 5. Sample fares and schedules: The bulbs are left to bloom fully so that they will gain full strength during the growing season,
meat, fish, poultry and seafood variations. after which over 500 million worth of bulbs are exported worldwide.
Not too traditional, not too nouvelle cuisine, Destination Price Duration Frequency To appreciate the blooms you have several options. By train, opt for one of the frequent local
the food is mildly progressive and always () (min) (per hr) (meaning slow) trains between Haarlem and Leiden. These pass through the heart of the fields.
delicious. By car, cover the same area on the N206 and N208, branching off down tiny side roads as you
Other options: Amsterdam 7.50 34 6 wish (at the gardens, youll have to pay a parking fee of around 4). But like so much of the
Noodl (%513 92 73; www.noodl.nl; Breestraat 88A; Den Haag 2.80 10 6 Netherlands, perhaps the best way to see the bulb fields is by bicycle. You can set your course
dishes 11-16;hdinner) Vietnamese and good dim sum. Schiphol Airport 4.50 18 4 along the smallest roads and get lost in a sea of colour. If you just want to head straight to the
Stadscaf van der Werff (%512 61 20; Stationsweg gardens, Netherlands Railways sells a ticket (adult/under 11 years 17/9) that combines entrance
7-9; lunch dishes 9-13; hlunch) Bright, with large Regional and local buses leave from the bus to the gardens and travel by express bus from Leiden CS (20 minutes).
windows and the usual caf menu. station directly in front of Centraal Station. In Lisse, the tourist office (%0252-41 42 62; Grachtweg 53A; hnoon-5pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-Fri,
9am-4pm Sat) can give you many options for bulb-field touring. Also in Lisse, the small Museum
Drinking Getting Around de Zwarte Tulp (Museum of the Black Tulip; %0252-41 79 00; www.museumdezwartetulp.nl; Grachtweg 2A;
Caf LEsperance (%512 16 00; www.lesperance.nl; Leiden is compact and youll have a hard time admission 3; h1-5pm Tue-Sun) displays everything you might want to know about bulbs, including
Kaiserstraat 1) This is a small, skinny, typically walking for more than 20 minutes in any one why theres no such thing as a black tulip.
Dutch pub nostalgic, cheerful, wood pan- direction. The bicycle shop in Centraal Station See p171 for details on the Aalsmeer Flower Auction, the largest of its type in the world.
elled, cosy, and pumping in the summer time. is around the back.


196 Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) A re a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) 197

DEN HAAG (THE HAGUE) AREA 0

0
1 km
0.5 miles
will take you past the lush homes of some of The collection is displayed in 16 rooms on
Den Haags most well-heeled residents. two floors almost every piece is a master-

A B C D Den Haag has no true centre; rather, there piece. Even if youre just passing Den Haag on
INFORMATION are several areas of concentration, including the train, its worth hopping off to visit.
Scheveningen Tourist Office.....1 A1
the Binnenhof and the nearby Kerkplein. Highlights include Girl with a Pearl
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Earring by Vermeer and The Anatomy Lesson
Gemeentemuseum..................2 A4
pier Madurodam.............................3 B3 Information of Dr Nicolaes Tulp by Rembrandt. Note that
NORTH Vredespaleis.............................4 B5 BOOKSHOPS some paintings are loaned occasionally.

SEA 8 eg
noo
tw
Oostduinpark SLEEPING Van Stockum (Map p198; %365 68 08; www.vanstock
ey
1 D Hotel Astoria........................... 5
Stayokay Den Haag................. 6
D6
D6
um.nl; Venestraat 11) Selection of travel books and magazines. BINNENHOF
7 Steigenberger Kurhaus Hotel...7 A2 Adjoining the Mauritshuis, the Binnenhof
Strandhotel...............................8 B1
Zwo
lses
tr
INTERNET ACCESS (Inner Court; Map p198) is surrounded by
eg

Kado Internet (Map p198; Spui 165; internet per hr 2.75) parliamentary buildings that have long been
w

EATING
ot
no

Topkapi Sense Restaurant......(see 7)

Koninklijke Bibliotheek (Royal Library; Map p198; at the heart of Dutch politics, though parlia-
D ey

rs
eg

2
%314 09 11; Prins Willem-Alexanderhof 5; internet ment now meets in a modern building on
ve

Va DRINKING
w

Ge

n
nd

Alk

nsweg
Kurzaal Bar............................(see 7)
ra

em per hr 3; h9am-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9am-8pm Tue, the south side.
Nie
St

SCHEVENINGEN ad
s tr gs -
uw

ela
vin eidin 9am-1pm Sat) The central courtyard looks sterile now but
Do

an

statio
Ste
Ba sch
e

DUTTENDEL Lanwdeg
or

Par d
kla hui
ni

Ke an sw Nieuwe was once used for executions. A highlight of

ks

Pomp To Duinhorst
Kokstr

iz
es

eg Scheveningse Camping (1km)

tr

Ha -
the complex is the 13th-century Ridderzaal
ers

rin Bosjes do
rp POST
tr

gk als g
Jurriaan

ad Waerwe
e Post office (Map p198; %365 38 43; Kerkplein 6; (Knights Hall). The Gothic dining hall has

de
Westbroekpark

Ou

DUINZIGT
h9am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-8pm Thu, 9am-4pm Sat) been carefully restored.
The North Wing is still home to the Upper
Duinstr TOURIST INFORMATION Chamber of the Dutch Parliament, in 17th-

Va
n
Sc

3 Ha
Tourist office (Map p198; %09003403505; www.den century splendour. The Lower Chamber used

Al
he

rin
eg
gk

ke
v

ad
en

rw

ma
e
haag.com; Hofweg 1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm to meet in the ballroom, in the 19th-century
ing

pe

de
3
or
eg

se

laa
Hubertuspark
Sat, noon-5pm Sun) wing. It all looks a bit twee and you can see
lsd

Ple
we
inw

n
sm
aa
g

eg an
ersw
W
Du

Teld we Scheveningen Tourist Office (Map p196; %09003403 why the politicians were anxious to decamp

BM g
STATENKWARTIER Prof
405; www.scheveningen.nl; Gevers Deynootweg 1134; to the sleek new extension nearby.
To Vakantiecentrum Scheveningse Bosjes
Arendsdorp h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) The best way to see the Binnenhofs build-
Kijkduinpark (5km) BENOORDENHOUT ings is on a one-hour tour, which leaves from
Laan

Dangers & Annoyances the visitors centre (%364 61 44; h10am-4pm Mon-
Raa
Witt

Oostduin eg
mw

ARCHIPELBUURT ew
ars The area south of the centre (the Schilders- Sat). Here you can see a model showing the
n de

na
e

e
g

4 ass wijk) near HS can seem far removed from its hotchpotch of buildings that make up the Bin-
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Joha
Stad

an
Zorgvliet ijnla we
g urbane counterpart to the north. Watch out nenhof, and you can learn about the turbulent
hou

Pat tse
rg ou
2 for pickpockets. past of the Low Countries, where invaders
ders

Bu enh
ord
laan

Javast
r Be
no have flooded in more often than the waters.
gielaan Carneg
la an ieple Sights & Activities After your walk, stroll around the Hofvi-
e

edy
rn

in See Den Haag (The Hague) Centre Map (p198)

Ca

n
Ken ort Den Haag has no true core, rather a scattering jver, where the reflections of the Binnenhof
nt 4 ervo
Ko

de eerd
esi de
nin

Pr
Van
M
tska Haagse of districts. All are easily reached by public and the Mauritshuis have inspired countless
gsk

n
Laa uri Bos

a
an transport or bike. snapshots.
ade

ela M
nn
Zo

gi
utm

to
Pa

r
He Koekamp tse
an

rks

5 ou
str

DUINOORD
enh MAURITSHUIS DEN HAAG: OLD & NEW
tr
o t

uid
Gro

tr Bez
ins
He tr
The small but grand Mauritshuis (Map p198; %302 Across the Hofvijver from the Binnenhof,
Ko

t ds
the Gevangenpoort (Prison Gate; Map p198; %346 08
nin

Pie Elan Vondelstr Centraal 34 56; www.mauritshuis.nl; Korte Vijverberg 8; adult/under

gin

rt Station
oo
erv 18yr incl audiotour 11.50/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am- 61; www.gevangenpoort.nl; Buitenhof 33; tour adult/child
Em

erd Ho ct
Me du
m

fw Via 5pm Sun) museum houses Dutch and Flemish 4/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) is a
ak

Va tr eg
rd
ad

n rs a
Laa ma rnh
e

W
ei
Sp
Pri
ns
Be masterpieces. It includes several of the most surviving remnant of the 13th-century city
r ui
Ma
rk tst famous Vermeers, and a touch of the contem- fortifications. It has hourly tours showing how
r
REGENTESSEKWARTIER
Gr
ote porary with Andy Warhols Queen Beatrix of justice was dispensed back then.
st
ar the Netherlands. Next door, the Galerij Prins Willem V (Map p198;
Valkenboslaan

m
Bee

ei r e
nn e
6 W seg Du rkad The building was constructed as a mansion %362 44 44; Buitenhof 35; adult/child 1.50/1; h11am-
kla

Prin Bie
an

l 6
in sew
eg
Zu
id wa
a de in 1640 in classical style; all its dimensions are 4pm Tue-Sun) was the first public museum in
sdu elk
Rijs

Loo Ho roughly the same (25m), and the detailing the Netherlands when it opened in 1773. Its
wij

r
kse

5
TRANSVAAL ast shows exquisite care. In 1822 it was made the been restored to its original appearance and
em
we

b Hollands Spoor
ob
g

Train Station
H
home of the royal collection. the paintings are hung in the manner popular


198 Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) 199

0 200 m
DEN HAAG (THE HAGUE) CENTRE 0 0.1 mi h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a permanent exhibition There are hourly guided tours, but if the
featuring notes, letters, drafts, photos and fully courts are in session these tours may be can-

5
A B C D
erst
r mature works covering Eschers entire career, celled check with the tourist office. You need
uijp SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
ialaa
n INFORMATION Dr K To Scheveningen To Duinrell
from his early realism to the later phantasma- to book ahead (security is strict). Take tram 7
Soph (10km) Escher in Het Paleis Museum....13 B2
Alex

3 Belgian Embassy...............1 B2 (4km)

21 6 British Embassy................2 B2 tse
Galerij Prins Willem V...............14 B3 goria. There are some imaginative displays, from CS or tram 8 from HS.
and

ou
enh Gevangenpoort........................15 A3

Nieu
Canadian Embassy...........3 A1
including a virtual reality reconstruction of

Hoo
1 oord
erstr

French Embassy...............4 C2 Ben Weg Grote Kerk...............................16 A3

ikade
Zee

we
a d e Irish Embassy...................5 C1 Mauritshuis..............................17 B3 Eschers impossible buildings and four-di- MADURODAM
str

Sc
s k New Town Hall........................18 B4
To Australian urit Italian Embassy................6 A1
mensional spatial dynamics, and an optical Complete with 1:25 scale versions of

hoo
M a

Old Town Hall.........................19 A3

Den
Embassy (500m); Kado Internet...................7 B4

lstr
German Embassy (600m);
Koninklijke Bibliotheek.....8 B4 Paleis Noordeinde....................20 A2 illusion photo booth, where you can take a Schiphol, Amsterdam, windmills and tulips,

new
Japanese Embassy (600m);
New Zealand Post Office......................9 A3 Panorama Mesdag...................21 A1
picture of yourself as if you were actually in Rotterdam harbour, and the Delta dikes,

eg
Embassy (600m) Tourist Office.................10 B3 Ridderzaal................................22 B3
25 US Embassy...................11 C2 an Escher drawing. Madurodam (Map p196; %355 39 00; www.madurodam

Kon
Van Stockum.................12 A3 SLEEPING
Noo

.nl; George Maduroplein 1; adult/child under 11yr 12.50/9;

ings
13
Corona Hotel...........................23 A3
rdein

tr
rnes Het Paleis Hotel.......................24 A3 GEMEENTEMUSEUM h9am-8pm) is a miniaturised Netherlands.
Park

kade
e
Kaz
de

2
str

EATING Admirers of De Stijl, and in particular of Piet Its an enlightening example of the Dutch

2 4 It Rains Fishes..........................25 A2
Mondrian, mustnt miss the Berlage-designed tendency to put their world under a micro-
rh out
Voo 11 Montmartre.............................26 A2
ge Gemeentemuseum (Map p196; Municipal Museum; %338 scope (see p37).
Lan OKA........................................27 C3
20 PUCK.......................................28 A3
11 20; www.gemeentemuseum.nl; Stadhouderslaan 41; adult/ Take tram 1 from CS, or tram 1 or 9 from
Kne

1 under 18yr 8/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sat). It houses HS.

ute

rg
er be
Vijv
Lang

To Rotterdam
a large collection of works by neoplasticist
rd

26 ge
Lan
ijk

(A13, 20km);
eg
e Houts

24 sew Amsterdam (A4, 45km);

artists and others from the late 19th century, SCHEVENINGEN
Buite

ut
Kort

enho Utrecht (A12, 50km)

Hofvijver zuid

Plein 27
Be
Koningin as well as extensive exhibits of applied arts, The long beach at Scheveningen (Map p196; www
e Vij
nhof

r 17 gr 38
est Julianapl
tr

15 en
Pr

Pap Her
Hoogstr

costumes and musical instruments. .scheveningen.nl) attracts nine million visi-

ins

verb

35 14 22 e n Centraal
es

23 Pot Station
tr

Binnenhof te Mondrians unfinished Victory Boogie Wo- tors per year. Crowds can get up close and
erg

28 Kor
3 10 30 ogie takes pride of place (as it should: the personal when the weather gets warm, and
Kort

Grotenmarkt n
9 P ote
ge
museum paid 30 million for it), and there are the shopping strip gets crassly commercial,
e Ho

Kerkpl 19 Hofw
eg Lan
Bag

16
utstr

12 jn also a few Picassos and other works by some of but the attraction of sea and sand keeps the
i
Ve

est

32 arkt
Nieu

erm the better-known names of the 20th century. peace. A palpable frisson of frivolity sweet-
nes

Kalv DRINKING
tr
wstr

Boterwaag...............................29 A4
De Sax.....................................30 C3
A great repository on a par with many others ens the air.
18
rktstr
Sp

te M
a De Zwarte Ruiter.....................31 A4 of similar size in the country, its also home Escape the crowds by heading north along
ui

Gro 8
Fiddler......................................32 A3
Grote Markt
31
7
Gr Markthof 34 to a fabulous Photography Museum. the beach past the end of the tram line. Here
W

te
29
dem
p ct ENTERTAINMENT the dunes are more pristine and the further
ag

Ge du
Via
ens

rd Cinematheek Haags Filmhuis...33 C4

nseg
r
ha PANORAMA MESDAG you walk or ride, the greater the rewards.
tr

Pri 36
Boek

Dr Anton Philipszaal.................34 C4
n
er

4 Just past the north end of Noordeinde, the Youll also pass a series of WWII bunkers, part
sB

Muziekcaf de Paap.................35 A3
hors
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

33

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

in

Nederlands Dans Theater.........36 C4

Pr

Panorama Mesdag (Map p198; %364 45 44; www.pano of the Nazi Atlantic Wall defence system and
tstr

Paard van Troje........................37 A4

37
rama-mesdag.nl; Zeestraat 65; adult/child under 13yr 5/2.50; an eerie reminder of the Netherlands place
TRANSPORT
To Hollands Spoor Eurolines Bus Stop....................38 D3 h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun & holidays) con- in European history.
Train Station (600m) tains the Panorama (1881), a huge 360-degree Heres another reminder, an oft-repeated
painting of Scheveningen that was painted story that relates how Dutch resistance fight-
in the 18th century; not a skerrick of wall is topped round tower at the other. The local by Hendrik Willem Mesdag. The panorama ers during WWII used Scheveningen as a
left bare. moniker is the tits and penis. is viewed from a constructed dune, with real password. It seems that while the Germans
The Grote Kerk (Map p198; %302 86 30; Rond de Names are more polite for the kings and sand and beach chairs; birdsong and wave could easily learn Dutch, for them the accent
Grote Kerk 12), dating from 1450, has a fine pul- queens official quarters at Paleis Noordeinde sounds are piped through. Mesdags com- required to properly pronounce Schevenin-
pit that was constructed 100 years later. The (Map p198). The Renaissance formality of the mand of perspective and minute detail was gen was impossible to learn. Go on, give it a
neighbouring 1565 old town hall (Map p198) structure bespeaks regal digs. Its not open to masterly: its a fully immersive experience. go: say sCHay-fuh-ninger.
is a splendid example of Dutch Renaissance the public, and the strong gates ensure secu-
architecture. rity in case the populace revolts for having VREDESPALEIS Tours
The huge new town hall (Map p198; Spui 170) their taxes spent on anatomically suggestive The United Nations International Court of The tourist office offers a good bus tour; an
is the hotly debated work by US architect buildings. Justice is housed in the Vredespaleis (Peace Palace; Architecture Tour using a specialist guide;
Richard Meier. The official nickname of the Map p196; %302 41 37; Carnegieplein 2; tours adult/child and a great range of boat tours. Contact the of-
building is the white swan, but locals prefer ESCHER IN HET PALEIS MUSEUM 2.50/1.50; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri). The grand building fice for times, as they change with demand.
the ice palace. Even better are the local nick- The Lange Voorhout Palace was once Queen was donated by American steel maker Andrew De Ooievaart (www.ooievaart.nl; adult/3-12yr
names for two government buildings nearby; Emmas residence. Now its home to the work Carnegie for use by the International Court of 8.95/4.95; hdepartures 11am-4.45pm) also offers
if allowed, take the elevator to the town halls of Dutch graphic artist MC Escher. Escher in Arbitration, an early international body whose boat tours over four different 1-hour routes,
11th floor and look at the complex that has het Paleis Museum (Map p198; %338 11 20; www.es goal was the prevention of war. Sadly, WWI taking in Den Haags most interesting sights
two pointed towers at one end and a dome- cherinhetpaleis.nl; Lange Voorhout; adult/under 15yr 7.50/5; broke out one year after it opened in 1913. at canal level.
 200 Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o at
n elonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D e n H a a g ( T h e H a g u e ) 201

Sleeping It Rains Fishes (Map p198; %365 25 98; www.itrains Boterwaag (Map p198; %365 96 86; www.september ish, cool crowd, but really geared to anyone
BUDGET fishes.nl; Noordeinde 123; mains 13-24; hlunch & dinner) .nl; Grote Markt 8A; hlunch & dinner) This old weigh- whos into music.
Stayokay Den Haag (Map p196; %315 78 88; www Its the restaurant on the sunny side of the house serves as a caf-restaurant and provides Other options:
.stayokay.com/denhaag; Scheepmakerstraat 27; dm from 21) street, a multi-award-winning seafood con- a distinctive drinking and eating experience, Cinematheek Haags Filmhuis (Map p198; %365 60
This branch of the Stayokay hostel chain has cern serving grilled, fried and poached fish, with its high ceilings, large windows, candle 30; www.filmhuisdenhaag.nl; Spui 191) Screens foreign
all the usual facilities including a bar, a res- mussels and scallops. fetish, nooks and crannies to hide out in, and and art movies.
taurant, Internet and games. Its around 15 PUCK (Pure Unique Californian Kitchen; Map p198; %427 great beer list. When we were here, a kooky Dr Anton Philipszaal (Map p198; %360 98 10; www
minutes walk from Hollands Spoor station. 76 49; www.puckfoodandwines.nl; Prinsestraat 33; mains kid was riding around inside on a unicycle .dapz.ldt.nl; Spui 150) Home to the Residentie Orkest, Den
Duinhorst (%324 22 70; www.duinhorst.nl; Buurtweg 18-25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) The restaurants and no-one batted an eyelid. Haags classical symphony orchestra.
135; camp site per tent 4.65; hApr-Sep) To get to vibrant paint job is apparently a tribute to the De Zwarte Ruiter (The Black Rider; Map p198; %364
this camp site; take bus 28 from HS or bus owners daughters love of M&Ms, and that 95 49; www.september.nl; Grote Markt 27) The Rider Shopping
29 from CS to the end of the line at Oude refreshing lack of attitude and formality car- faces off with the Boterwaag across the Markt There are several good streets for galleries,
Waalsdorperweg and then walk about 1km ries over to the fusion menu. A case in point: like rival Kings of Cool. With its terrace and antiques and interesting boutiques; try Den-
west, or take a taxi. pan-sauted duck breast over oven-roasted Deco mezzanine light-filled, split-level and neweg, Noordeinde which also has some
fries, with Napa cabbage and maple syrup. cavernous its like the interior of an aban- great restaurants and bars and Molenstraat.
MIDRANGE Topkapi Sense Restaurant (Map p196; %358 53 doned theatre. This is a classic caf, cool bar
Corona Hotel (Map p198; %363 79 30; www.corona.nl; 50; www.topkapi-scheveningen.nl; Gevers Deynootplein 36, and casual meeting point all in one. Getting There & Away
Buitenhof 39-42; r from 74) This pleasant hotel is Scheveningen; mains 11-22; hlunch & dinner) An Ot- De Sax (Map p198; %346 67 55; Korte Houtstraat 14A) Den Haag has two main train stations. CS
across the way from the Binnenhof and has toman restaurant with cuisine from Greece, This little jazz bar, just off the Plein, is quite a terminus is close to the centre. It has the
all the usual facilities and amenities, plus su- Turkey, Egypt, Syria, Algeria, Morocco The the chilled establishment. It has a good vibe, usual amenities and is a hub for local trams
percomfy rooms that come in a range of un- couscous with sea bass is a winner, as is the not the least of which is due to the cool music and buses.
Dutchlike styles such as Colonial English. baked, stuffed zucchini. Ruby-red drapes and oozing from the sound system. Very dark, very HS is about 1km south of the centre and is
Strandhotel (Map p196; %354 01 93; www.strandhotel beads combine with low lighting to create a cosy, very friendly. on the main railway line between Amsterdam
.demon.nl; Zeekant 111 & Gevers Deynootweg 1344, Schevenin- suitable atmosphere, although the guy in the Fiddler (Map p198; %365 19 55; www.fiddler.nl; and Rotterdam and the south. Thalys high-
gen; s/d from 40/65) Its on the beach, and the rooms corner playing cheesy tunes on his synthetic Riviervismarkt 1) This large, split-level, wood- speed trains to/from Paris stop here, as do
have an unreconstructed 1950s motif. Book organ tempers it. panelled English microbrewery always has a many other through-services. HS also has all
ahead and keep an eye on the weather prices OKA (Map p198; %392 01 33; Herengracht 2-6; dishes decent crowd snacking on the OK pub food the usual services.
soar in summer. Service can be perfunctory. 15-25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) This swish, authen- and the Fiddlers own beers: an ale, a pale ale
Hotel Astoria (Map p196; %384 04 01; Stationsweg tic Japanese restaurant serves up delectable and a stout. In the end, its probably a bit too BUS
139; s/d 42/55) The rooms are small and a touch sushi and teppanyaki. The hostess, Ms JoJo cavernous intimacys hard to come by. Good Eurolines long-distance buses stop on the east
bleak (although they do have private facilities, Phang, is a bit of a personality she says she location: in the eye of the Grote Kerk. side of CS. Regional buses depart from the bus
which sweetens the deal). can arrange on-site bachelor parties, ironing station above the tracks at CS.
out all the details in a private talk tailored to Entertainment
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

TOP END that evenings party boy. Nederlands Dans Theater (Map p198; %880 01 00; www TRAIN
oSteigenberger Kurhaus Hotel (Map p196; Montmartre (Map p198; %365 64 54; Molenstraat .ndt.nl; Schedeldoekshaven 60) This renowned dance Sample train services:
%416 26 36; www.kurhaus.nl; Gevers Deynootplein 30, 4C; snacks 4.30-12.50; hlunch) This brasserie has company has gained worldwide fame since its
Scheveningen; r from 275; ain) At the top end dcor thats a little bit lacy and a lunch menu formation in 1959. It was created by a group of Destination Price Duration Frequency
of things and right on the beach. First built in thats very French: understated, yet refined, dancers frustrated with the ossified creativity () (min) (per hr)
1885, this sumptuous, elegant building has with lavish attention to detail. The baguettes of the old Ballet of the Netherlands company.
been extended and restored several times. The are seriously pleasing, with all kinds of cheeses The group has three components: NDT1, the Amsterdam 9.50 50 4
noted thermal baths are there still, among a and extras like marinated eggplant. main troupe of 32 dancers; NDT2, a small Leiden 2.80 13 4
plethora of luxuries that includes a casino. group of 12 dancers under 21; and NDT3, a Rotterdam 4.10 22 4
Het Paleis Hotel (Map p198; %362 46 21; www Drinking group of dancers over 40 who perform more Utrecht 9.10 40 4
.paleishotel.nl; Molenstraat 26; s/d from 175/185) Near Kurzaal Bar (Map p196; %416 26 36; Steigenberger Kur- dramatic works.
the Noordeinde and historic Den Haag, its haus Hotel, Gevers Deynootplein 30, Scheveningen) Even if Paard van Troje (Map p198; %750 34 34; www.paard Getting Around
location is atmospheric enough, and the an- youre not staying at the plush, 19th-century .nl; Prinsegracht 12) This emporium has club nights Most tram routes converge on CS, at the
tique trimmings in the room match all that Kurhaus Hotel, its worth popping in for a and live music, as well as a caf. The pro- tram and bus station above the tracks. A
superbly. The rooms are well equipped and drink at its bar (but wear your best shoes). The grammings eclectic: everything from booty- number of routes also serve HS, including
very comfortable. Kurzaals on the edge of a stunning dancehall/ shaking drumnbass DJs to bowel-destroying the jack-of-all-trades tram 1, which starts in
restaurant with period trimmings, painted ceil- sonic maniacs The Hafler Trio. Scheveningen and runs all the way to Delft,
Eating ing, frescoes, chandeliers, huge potted plants, Muziekcaf de Paap (Map p198; %365 20 02; www passing the centre of Den Haag and CS along
Den Haags gastronomic scene is fairly cen- portholes, artworks, and photos of Jacques Brel, .depaap.nl; Papestraat 32) Den Haags best place for the way. Trams 1, 8 and 9 link Scheveningen
tral and very good, with quality matched by Bing Crosby The Rolling Stones played their live music, and just a great, versatile nightspot. with Den Haag; the fare is three strips. The
variety. The cobbled streets off Denneweg are shortest-ever concert here just three minutes, Its atmospheric, and has a fab restaurant and last tram runs in either direction at about
one of the livelier areas. before rioting teenage girls took over. bar where you can kick off early. Its a young- 1.30am.



202 Z U I D H O L L A N D G o u d a www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D G o u d a 203

Call ATC Taxi (%317 88 77) for a cab. You can GOUDA 0
0
200 m
0.1 mi
itself had chequered beginnings: it burned Sleeping
hail any available taxi, if you can find one. down with ungodly regularity every 100 years Given that Gouda is such a natural day trip,

NIEUWE Burgem
The bicycle shop (%385 32 35) in CS is under PARK A Jamesplein B or so from 1361 until the mid-16th century, you might not think of staying here, but you

Bu
the terminal. The HS bicycle shop (%389 08 30) when what you see today was completed. may just appreciate its somnolent charms

rg
INFORMATION

em
is at the southern end of that station. Both Architecturally, Sint Janskerk is an attrac- after dark. The tourist office has a list of a

Ja
Post Office..........................1 A4 train

m
es
Tourist Office......................2 A3 station

sin
shops rent out bikes. 1 tive late-Gothic church in need of a better few private rooms it will book for a small

ge
l
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Boat Tours............................3 B2
steeple, but its huge windows set it apart, fee. These rooms usually cost 20 to 30
GOUDA Kaaswaag..........................(see 8) especially those created by Dirck Crabeth, his per person.

%0182 / pop 71,797 Museum Het Catharina
Gasthuis..........................4 A4
14
brother Wouter, and Lambert van Noort from Camping De Elzenhof (%52 44 56; Broekweg 6; camp
Goudas association with cheesy comestibles Sint Janskerk........................5 A4 around 1550 to 1570. Their works, which are sites from 10) This camp site is a 45-minute haul
't Kaaswinkeltje...................6 A4
has made it famous the towns namesake numbered, include highlights such as window from town you have to detour around canals

Vredeb
Town Hall............................7 A3
fermented curd is among the Netherlands Waag..................................8 A3 No 6 (John the Baptist; the folks on either and waterways and theres no bus. Go south

Crabethstr

r
rst
best-known exports. But Gouda, the town, side paid for the window) and No 22 (Jesus from the centre of Gouda, cross the Julianas-

est

oo
SLEEPING

Sp
has a bit more to it than that. Hotel de Utrechtsche Dom...9 B4
Kattensingel
purifies the temple; note the look on the face luis bridge and follow the signs.
Gouda enjoyed economic success and 2 Kleiwegpl of the moneychanger). Hotel de Utrechtsche Dom (%52 88 33; www
EATING
decline in the same manner as the rest of BuitenRegentesse
Eten+Drinken..........
Plantsoen 10 A4
3 To the immediate southwest of the church, .hotelgouda.nl; Geuzenstraat 6; s/d from 57/75) Neat,
Eetcaf Vidocq...................11 A4

eg
Holland from the 16th century onwards. Its near a small canal, the Museum het Catharina clean and on a quiet street, this is a lovely,

eiw
La Tour..............................12 A4

Kl
cheese has brought recent wealth, as has the Nieuwe Haven
Scheeps............................. 13 A4 Gasthuis (%58 84 40; Oosthaven 10; adult/child 2.50/1; low-key place to stay, with good amenities.
countrys largest candle factory, which stays TRANSPORT h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), housed in an Therere a big, spacious breakfast room and
busy supplying all those Dutch brown cafs. old hospital, covers Goudas history and has hospitable managers what more could you

str
Bus Station.........................14 B1

Blekers Sin
ten

Conventst

nie
The acclaimed 16th-century stained-glass a few artworks. ask for?

Ag
windows in its church are a highlight. Turfmarkt
Hotel Keizerskroon (%52 80 96; www.hotel

gel
r
Gouda makes an ideal day trip, easily ac- OTHER ATTRACTIONS keizerskroon.nl; Keizerstraat 11-13; s/d from 62/72) This
r
rst

cessible from any city in Zuid Holland. The 3 Wandering the streets away from the Markt ones centrally located, and is homely, cosy,
aie

ter g
AchWaa
Na

compact centre is entirely ringed by canals 8 de is rewarding, especially Lange Tiendeweg and comfortable, warm, welcoming and friendly.

d
Houtmanspa
7
and is less than five minutes walk from the Markt
Zeugstraat with its tiny canal and even tinier Choose from a range of suites, ranging from
station. The large central square, the Markt, bridges. To prove that Gouda cheese really standard to luxury. Oh, and theres an on-
r
2
Zeugst

weg

is the focus of the town. isnt bland, visit t Kaaswinkeltje (%51 42 69; www site bar and restaurant.
Tiendete
Kor

l emstr

5 11 .kaaswinkeltje.com; Lange Tiendeweg 30). This cheese

Ac

Lange Tie
hte

Information 6
shop is filled with fabulous smells and its here Eating & Drinking
uza

de ndeweg
r

13 4 Ker
Jer

k
g

Post office (%52 21 00; Westhaven 37; h7am-5pm 9

that you can sample some of the aged Goudas Buiten Eten+Drinken (%52 48 84; www.buitenetenen
we
ne

Mon-Fri, 7am-1.30pm Sat) South of the Markt. that the Dutch wisely keep for themselves. The drinken.com; Oosthaven 23A; 3-course menu from 26; hdin-
oe

st

Molenwerf
en
Gr

uz

Tourist office (%090046832888; www.vvvgouda.nl; 4 10

older the cheese, the sharper the flavour, and ner Tue-Sun) Buiten has perhaps the best view of
Ge
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Hotel
Markt 27; h1-5.30pm Mon, 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, Keizerskroon
(100m)
12 some of the very old Goudas have a Parme- Goudas restaurants, overlooking the pretty
10am-4pm Sat) Nood san-like texture and a rich, smoky taste. With canal that rings this town. The global menu
str

godst
ring

r
ge

a little mustard smeared on, a hunk of this delivers, too French, Asian and Mediterra-
aven

1
Sin
aven

Spie

Sights
Westh

cheese is great with beer. nean palates combining with a good vegetar-
Oosth

Most of the notable sights are within 10 min- ian selection. Inside, theres a fireplace and
str

KORT HAARLEM
Tours
n
Tuin

utes walk of the strangely enormous Markt. seasonal art on the ceilings and walls, and its
laa

To Camping De
sel

Elzenhof (2km);
In July and August there are two daily boat all very inviting.
IJs

A20 Rotterdam
MARKT trips (6, three hours) through the canals Scheeps (%51 75 72; www.restaurantscheeps.nl; West-
len

The central Markt is one of the largest such 5 around Gouda to the nearby Reeuwijk lake haven 4; mains 17-30; hlunch & dinner) A considered
we

Zee
Flu

squares in the Netherlands. Right in the middle Ho

dijk
Nie district. Contact the tourist office for details. body of local opinion states that Scheeps is
lla uw
is the mid-15th-century town hall. Constructed nd
sc
he
e V
e ers
Goudas best restaurant. That may be, con-
from shimmering sandstone, this regal Gothic IJ
sse
tal
Festivals & Events sidering the fine choice of fish and local spe-
l N207
structure bespeaks the wealth Gouda enjoyed Once upon a time, the Gouda cheese market cialities on offer (vegetarians havent been
from the cloth trade when it was built. The red- was the real thing, as the Waag will attest. But forgotten, either). In summer, dine outside
and-white shutters provide a fine counterpoint h1-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct), a museum that follows the days when more than 1000 dairymen and in the lovely garden.
to the carefully maintained stonework. the history of the cheese trade in the Nether- cheese makers would assemble in the Markt La Tour (%52 47 17; www.la-tour.nl; Spieringstraat
On the north side of the Markt, you cant lands, especially its history in Gouda. for a raucous day of buying, selling and trading 101; mains 17-22; hdinner Tue-Sat) This intimate,
miss the Waag, a former cheese-weighing are long past. Now hundreds of tour buses as- relaxed place draws on French and Italian
house built in 1668. If you have any doubt SINT JANSKERK & AROUND semble every Thursday morning from June to influences for its delectable menu. You could
about its use, check out the reliefs carved into Just to the south of the Markt is Sint Janskerk August for an orgy of buying, selling and very do much worse than sample the furnace-
the side showing the cheese being weighed. It (%51 26 84; Achter de Kerk; adult/child 2.50/1.75; h10am- little trading. A few men dress up in traditional baked cod fish, or indeed the tournedos with
houses the Kaaswaag (%52 99 96; adult/child 2.50/1; 6pm Mon-Sat Mar-Nov, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb). The church costume and go through the motions. Madagascar peppers.

204 Z U I D H O L L A N D D e l f t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D e l f t 205

Eetcaf Vidocq (%52 28 19; www.eetcafevidocq Orientation DELFT 0 200 m

0 0.1 mi
.nl; Koster Gijzensteeg 5-8; mains 16-20; hlunch & din- The train station and neighbouring bus sta-

Doelenplein To Delftse
ner) This Gouda classic caf has been around tion are a 10-minute stroll south of the central A
19 els
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B C D Hout
for ages. Menu items on offer might include Markt. and camping
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Oud str
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Vlo
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Pa
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all youll need are your feet for local transport. Post office (%212 45 11; Hippolytusbuurt 14; str

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The lockers are in the tunnel under the tracks. h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat) 11 Pl

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32 Markt an

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Sample fares and schedules: Tourist office (%09005151555; www.delft.nl; Hip- St Agatha Oo stein ge

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Pl 27 ste de
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polytusbuurt 4; h11am-4pm Mon, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, wst
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you exit the train station on the Centrum almost a clich. Given that the process was first al

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side. The one bus of interest here is the 180 developed in China, its ironic that the mass of

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There are large car parks for your car or from China. The real stuff is produced in fairly

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17 Brug

motorcycle on the towns periphery. Gouda small quantities at four factories in and around

er
Stationspl
is near the A12 motorway between Den Haag Delft. There are three places where you can
33 7
and Utrecht and the A20 to Rotterdam. actually see the artists at work.

Ve
str
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st
train nbo
The bicycle shop (%51 97 51) is in the train The most central and modest outfit is the station Mij

station. Aardewerkatelier de Candelaer (%213 18 48; www al

Mijnbouwpl
idw str
.candelaer.nl; Kerkstraat 13; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Feb, 4 Zu o uw

n
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ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

laa



M
DELFT

na
9am-6pm Mon-Sat & 9am-5pm Sun Mar-Oct), just off the

lia
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VL
%015 / pop 94,486 Markt. It has five artists, a few of whom work De Kolk

eeu
Ah, lovely Delft: compact, charming, relaxed. most days. When its quiet theyll give you a

w enh
Hooik
Its a very popular tourist destination day- detailed tour of the manufacturing process. ade

oek
8

sin
trippers (and lovers of beauty and refinement) The other two locations, outside the town

Ro

an
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tte
Delf

ala
clamour to stroll Delfts narrow, canal-lined centre, are basically factories. De Delftse Pauw

rda

ian
tse


ms

Jul
streets, gazing at the remarkable old build- (The Delft Peacock; %212 49 20; www.delftsepauw.com;

ew
Schie

eg
ings and meditating on the life and career Delftweg 133; h9am-4.30pm) is the smaller of the
eg

Hav
of Golden Age painter Johannes Vermeer. two, employing 35 painters who work mainly 5 ew

Zuid
ds

en
tlan
The artist was born in Delft and lived here from home. It has daily tours, but you wont es

eind
W To Royal Delft
View of Delft, one of his best-loved works, is see the painters on weekends. Take tram 1 to

e
an enigmatic, nonrealist vision of the town. Vrijenbanselaan. INFORMATION
Boekhandel Huyser.........................1 B1
Oude Kerk....................................13 A1
Town Hall....................................14 B2
De Zeven Zonden.........................24
Eetcaf De Ruif.............................25
B2
B1
Delft is also famous for its delftware, the Royal Delft (%251 20 30; Rotterdamseweg 196; Library............................................2 C2 Waag...........................................15 B2 Stadys Koffyhuis..........................26 A2
Post Office.....................................3 A1 Vlaanderen..................................27 C2
distinctive blue-and-white pottery originally h9.30am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Mar) is Tourist Office.................................4 B2 SLEEPING
duplicated from Chinese porcelain by 17th- the only original factory operating since the

Enge
Hotel de Emauspoort....................16 C2 DRINKING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel de Kok................................17 A3 Caf 't Proeflokaal.......................28 C3
century artisans. 1650s. Bus 63 from the train station stops

lse S
Aardewerkatelier de Candelaer.......5 B2 Hotel de Koophandel...................18 C2 Locus Publicus..............................29 B2
Delft was founded around 1100 and grew nearby at Jaffalaan, or its a 25-minute walk
tr
Boat Tour.......................................6 B2 Hotel de Plataan...........................19 B1
Legermuseum.................................7 B4 Hotel-Restaurant Johannes ENTERTAINMENT
rich from weaving and trade in the 13th and from the town centre. 6 Location where 'View of Delft' was Vermeer...................................20 C2 Bebop Jazzcaf.............................30 B2
14th centuries. In the 15th century a canal The Museum Lambert van Meerten (%260 23 58; painted.......................................8 B4 Filmhuis Lumen.............................31 B1
Municipal Museum Het Prinsenhof..9 A2 EATING OJV de Koornbeurs......................32 B2
was dug to the Maas River, and the small port Oude Delft 199; adult/child 5/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Museum Lambert van Meerten....10 A1 Abessini......................................21 B2
there, Delfshaven, was eventually absorbed Sun) has a fine collection of porcelain tiles and Nieuwe Kerk.................................11 B2 Artusi...........................................22 A1 TRANSPORT
Oostpoort.................................... 12 D2 De Zaag en De Vries.....................23 B1 Bus Station...................................33 A4
by Rotterdam. delftware dating back to the 16th century.
 206 Z U I D H O L L A N D D e l f t Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D e l f t 207

CHURCHES exhibits on the modern Dutch army, includ- camping ground is just northeast of town. Stadys Koffyhuis (%212 46 25; www.stads-koffyhuis
The 14th-century Nieuwe Kerk (%212 30 25; www ing the controversial and disastrous role it Take bus 64 from the station. .nl; Oude Delft 133; pancakes 7-10) This warm and
.nieuwekerk-delft.nl; Markt; adult/child 3/1.50; h9am-6pm played as part of the Bosnian peacekeeping friendly caf has a real ace in the hole: a terrace
Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Apr, closed Sun) houses the crypt force during the 1990s. MIDRANGE barge moored out front, where you can take
of the Dutch royal family and the mausoleum Hotel de Plataan (%212 60 46; www.hoteldeplataan your coffee and eat your delicious sandwiches
of Willem the Silent. There are exhibitions OLD DELFT .nl; Doelenplein 10; s/d 88/99) Delfts finest accom- and pancakes while admiring possibly the best
about the House of Orange and the church. Much of the town dates from the 17th century modation is on a delightful square, and fea- view in Delft the Oude Kerk, just ahead at
The fee includes entrance to the Gothic and is remarkably well preserved. Before you tures an ace caf and a downright dignified the end of the canal.
Oude Kerk (%212 30 15; www.oudekerk-delft.nl; Heilige leave the crowded Markt, note the town hall, breakfast room. Standard rooms are small Other options:
Geestkerkhof; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Mar, with its unusual combination of Renaissance but elegant. Then there are the wonderfully Abessini (%213 52 60; Kromstraat 21; mains 10-17;
closed Sun) and vice versa. The latter, 800 construction surrounding a 13th-century tower. opulent theme rooms, which come on like hdinner) West African cuisine with starchy tubers, meats
years old, is a surreal sight: its tower leans 2m Behind it, the Waag is a 1644 weigh-house. a Japanese love hotel: theres the Garden of and pulses combined with spices, sauces and herbs.
from the vertical. One of the tombs inside is East of here, Beestenmarkt is a large open Eden; the Amber, based on Eastern stylings; De Zaag en De Vries (%213 70 15; Vrouw Juttenland
Vermeers. space surrounded by fine buildings. Further or the jaw-dropping Tamarinde, themed 17; mains 18; hdinner, closed Mon) Great food in a
east, Oostpoort is the sole surviving piece of the after a desert island. cheery orange place with a long vegetarian menu.
MUSEUMS towns walls. Koornmarkt, leading south from Hotel De Emauspoort (%219 02 19; www.emaus De Zeven Zonden (The Seven Sins; %215 86 89; www
Opposite the Oude Kerk is the Municipal the Waag, is a quiet and tree-lined canal. poort.nl; Vrouwenregt 9-11; s/d 80/90, s/d caravan 75/85) .dezevenzonden.nl; Oude Delft 78; mains 17; hdinner)
Museum het Prinsenhof (%260 23 58; www.prinsenhof Comfy, old-style rooms, plus two attentively Unique, offbeat and cosy try the kangaroo dish cooked
-delft.nl; St Agathaplein 1; adult/child under 16yr 5/4; Tours restored gypsy caravans out the back (named French-provincial style.
h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), a former convent One of the best ways to see Delft is by a boat Pipo de Clown and Mammaloe). Delightful.
where Willem the Silent was assassinated in tour on the canals. Visit the tourist office for Big fat bonus: the bakery-confectionery store CAFS
1584 (the bullet hole in the wall is covered in more details. next door provides the big fat breakfast. Vlaanderen (% 213 33 11; Beestenmarkt 16; mains
Perspex to protect it from inquisitive visitors). Other options: 18-21; hlunch & dinner) This caf-restaurant
The museum displays various objects telling Sleeping Hotel de Kok (%212 21 25; www.hoteldekok.nl; has a Flemish name but a French-inspired
the story of the 80-year war with Spain, as well Note that in summer Delfts accommodation Houttuinen 15; s/d from 66/80) Simple rooms but very menu. Its good for people-watching, too,
as 17th-century paintings. is heavily booked. Reserve well ahead, or visit conveniently located, near the train station, with a sweet with its convivial terrace. Baked and smoked
The Legermuseum (%215 05 00; www.leger the town as a day trip. garden terrace. diamond hare gives you an idea of the dishes
museum.nl; Korte Geer 1; adult/child 6/3; h10am-5pm Hotel de Koophandel (%214 23 02; www.hotel on offer.
Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) has a collection of old BUDGET dekoophandel.nl; Beestenmarkt 30; s/d from 78/91) A Eetcaf De Ruif (%214 22 06; www.ruif.nl; Kerk-
Dutch military hardware displayed in a re- Delftse Hout (%213 00 40; Korftlaan 5; camp sites incl little bland, but spotlessly clean. straat 22; mains 12-16; hlunch & dinner) Wonderfully
stored 17th-century arsenal. There are also 2 people, car, tent, caravan or motor home from 20) This rustic, with a low ceiling, canal views and
TOP END yummo lunches, like goat-cheese salads and
Hotel-Restaurant Johannes Vermeer (%212 64 66; Stellendam shrimps (seafood thats apparently
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

VERMEERS DELFT www.hotelvermeer.nl; Molslaan 18; s/d 112/125) This very highly prized round these here parts). At
Johannes Vermeer, one of the greatest of the Dutch old masters, lived his entire life in Delft ones an ersatz Vermeer museum, its rooms night its busier, morphing into an exceed-
(163275), fathering 11 children and leaving behind just 35 incredible paintings. Vermeers works decorated with Vermeer prints. To be hon- ingly popular carousing option.
have rich and meticulous colouring and he captures light as few other painters have ever man- est, its a bit tacky, although there are im-
aged. His scenes come from everyday life in Delft, his interiors capturing simple things such as the maculate views of old Delft (canals, churches Drinking
famous Girl with a Pearl Earring, giving a proto-cinematographic quality to his compositions and street scenes on all sides). The restau- Locus Publicus (%213 46 32; Brabantse Turfmarkt 67)
Vermeers best-known exterior work, View of Delft, brilliantly captures the play of light and rant features rare kettles hanging from the With more than 200 beers, its one of the best
shadow of a partly cloudy day. Visit the location where he painted it, across the canal at Hooikade, roof and reproductions of all of Vermeers beer cafs around. Its also friendly, with good
southeast of the train station. Unfortunately, none of Vermeers works remain in Delft. The two known works, including a wall-length Girl music and warm vibes.
works mentioned above can be seen at the Mauritshuis in Den Haag (p197), while arguably his most with a Pearl Earring surrounded by exposed Caf t Proeflokaal (%212 49 22; Gasthuislaan 36-
famous painting, The Milkmaid, spends most of its time in Amsterdams Rijksmuseum (p106). brickwork. 40) Here there are 300 beers to chose from.
Vermeer has become a media darling of late. In 2003 the film Girl with a Pearl Earring (based Service is friendly and attentive.
on Tracy Chevaliers novel) speculated on his relationship with the eponymous girl. Eating
The following year, a work long thought to be a forgery was finally confirmed as authentic RESTAURANTS Entertainment
Young Woman Seated at the Virginals was the first Vermeer to be auctioned in more than 80 years, Artusi (%212 03 54; www.restaurant-artusi.nl; Voorstraat Bebop Jazzcaf (%213 52 10; Kromstraat 33) Dark
selling to an anonymous buyer for 24 million. 20A; mains 18-22; hdinner Mon-Sat) Its a bar as and small, with moody music and a great
Watch out for the opening of the Vermeercentrum (%213 85 88; www.vermeerdelft.nl; Voldersgracht well as a restaurant, and Italian dishes are selection of beers.
21; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), which promises to offer a fascinating voyage of discovery the name of the game. Its a stylish place, but OJV de Koornbeurs (%212 47 42; www.koornbeurs
through the life and work of Johannes Vermeer at the time of research, opening day was not too snobby. Thank God for that. All the .nl; Voldersgracht 1) An underground dance floor
set for sometime in April 2007. As the publicity bellows, Experience life in 17th-century Delft. usual Italian faves are here, plus ramped up, with alternative tunes.
Experience his studio, and get to know his work. out-of-left-field goodies like duck udder with Filmhuis Lumen (%214 02 26; www.filmhuis-lumen
olives and balsamic sauce. .nl; Doelenplein 5) Screens alternative films.
 208 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m 209

Getting There & Around Orientation Bike theft, as in any Dutch city with a sig- Even the traditional museum floor plan
Sample train service fares and schedules: Rotterdam, split by the Nieuwe Maas shipping nificant junkie population, is rampant. is abetted by an innovation the curators call
channel, is crossed by a series of tunnels and The Data Cloud. Its a three-D interactive
Destination Price Duration Frequency bridges, notably the Erasmusbrug. The centre Sights & Activities multimedia map on the entrance floor that is
() (min) (per hr) is on the northern side of the water, and new Rotterdam is easy to navigate, with so many a brilliant work of design in itself it allows
neighbourhoods are rising to the south. From memorable buildings and landmarks with visitors to find instantly, via a holographic
Amsterdam 10.80 50 2 Centraal Station (CS), a 15-minute walk along which to orientate yourself. The centre is also projection portal, the location of (and in-
Den Haag 2.20 8 2 the canal-like ponds leads to the waterfront. The a lot smaller than it seems for such a bustling formation about) any item in the museums
Rotterdam 2.90 13 4 commercial centre is to the east and most mu- metropolis you might never need to use the 120,000 piece collection.
seums are to the west. The historic neighbour- efficient public transport. The best way to see
Lockers are in the train stations main con- hood of Delfshaven is a further 3km west. it is by bike, though be alert both bike theft KUNSTHAL
course and there are all the usual amenities. and car use are higher in Rotterdam than in At the south end of Museumpark, the Kunsthal
Alternatively, bus 129 makes the run to/ Information cities of similar size. Many galleries are con- (Map pp210-11; %440 03 00; www.kunsthal.nl; Westzeedijk
from Rotterdam every hour along a pretty DISCOUNT CARD centrated around Museumpark. 341; adult/under 18yr 8.50/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-
canal. The ride lasts 30 minutes and takes The Rotterdam Card offers discounts in hotels 5pm Sun & holidays) hosts around 20 temporary
five strips. Buses depart from the front of and restaurants; its 22.46/43.11 for 24/72 MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN exhibitions (including art and design) each
the station. hours. The card is even available as a watch. Among Europes very finest museums, the year. As the publicity says, everything from
Den Haag is also linked to Delft by tram 1, Buy it from the tourist office. Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (Map pp210-11; elitist to popular gets an airing.
which takes 30 minutes and costs five strips. % 441 94 00; www.boijmans.nl; Museumpark 18-20;
The bicycle shop is in the train station. INTERNET ACCESS adult/under 18yr 8/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a EUROMAST
EasyInternetCaf (Map p212; www.easyeverything.com permanent collection spanning all eras of At 185m, a shimmy up the Euromast (Map pp210-
ROTTERDAM /map/rot; Stadhuisplein 16-18; internet per hr 3; h9am- Dutch and European art, including superb 11; %436 48 11; www.euromast.com; Parkhaven 20; adult/
%010 / pop 605,000 11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun) old masters. Among the highlights are The under 11yr 8/5.20; h9.30am-11pm Apr-Sep, 10am-11pm
Rotterdam, the Netherlands second city, Marriage at Cana by Hieronymus Bosch, the Oct-Mar) is a must. It offers unparalleled 360-
was bombed flat during WWII and spent the LIBRARIES Three Maries at the Open Sepulchre by Van degree views of Rotterdam, with its rotating,
following decades rebuilding. You wont find Centrale Bibliotheek (Map pp210-11; %281 61 14; Eyck, the minutely detailed Tower of Babel glass-walled Euroscope contraption ascend-
the classic Dutch medieval centre here it was Hoogstraat 110; internet per hr 3; h1-8pm Mon, 10am- by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, and Portrait of ing to near the summit. There is a luxury
swept away along with the other rubble and 8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) An attraction in itself, with a Titus and Man in a Red Cap by Rembrandt. accommodation suite and the Panorama res-
detritus of war. In its place is an architectural caf, an indoor life-sized chessboard and internet access. Renaissance Italy is well represented; look for taurant (p216) near the top. Book an abseiling
aesthetic thats unique in Europe, a progres- The Wise and Foolish Virgins by Tintoretto session (39.50).
sive perpetual-motion approach to construc- MEDICAL SERVICES and Satyr and Nymph by Titian.
tion thats clearly a result of the citys postwar, For a doctor, call %420 11 00. Paintings and sculpture since the mid-19th DELFSHAVEN
postmodern anything goes philosophy. Erasmus MC (Map pp210-11; %463 92 22; century are another strength. There are many One of Rotterdams few districts to survive the
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

But tradition is strong elsewhere, for Rot- s-Gravendijkwal 320) Major teaching hospital. Monets and other French impressionists; Van war, Delfshaven was once the official seaport
terdam is Europes busiest port (and second Gogh and Gauguin are given space; and there for the city of Delft. A reconstructed 18th-
in the world) a lineage as a shipping nexus POST are statues by Degas. The museum rightly century windmill overlooks the water at Voor-
that dates back to 1572, when Spaniards being Post office (Map pp210-11; %233 02 55; Coolsingel 42; prides itself on its collection by a group it haven 210. One of the areas claims to fame
pursued by the rebel Sea Beggars were given h9am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8.30pm Thu, 9.30am- calls the other surrealists including Mar- is that it was where the Pilgrims left Holland
shelter in the harbour. Rotterdam became a 3pm Sat) cel Duchamp, Ren Magritte and Man Ray. for America aboard the Speedwell. They could
major port during the conflict, and it remains Salvador Dal gained a special room in the barely keep the leaky boat afloat and, in Eng-
so to this day. TOURIST INFORMATION recent expansion and the collection is one land, eventually transferred to the Mayflower
Rotterdam has a crackling energy, with Tourist office (Map p212; %271 01 28; www.rotterdam of the largest of his work outside Spain and the rest is history. The Oude Kerk on Voorhaven
superb nightlife, a multicultural community, .info; Coolsingel 5; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & France. All in all, the surrealist wing is utterly is where the Pilgrims prayed for the last time
a gritty arts scene, and a clutch of excellent Sun) Free internet access. absorbing, with ephemera and paraphernalia before leaving on 22 July 1620.
museums. It also has a long-standing rivalry Use-It (Map p212; %240 91 58; www.use-it.nl; Schaats- rubbing against famous works. Just south, De Dubbelde Palmboom (Map pp210-
with Amsterdam, reflected in most aspects baan 41-45; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Maymid-Sep, to Modern modes are not forgotten, and the 11; %476 15 33; www.hmr.rotterdam.nl; Voorhaven 12;
of culture. When local football team, Fey- 5pm Tue-Sat mid-Sepmid-May) Aimed at young travellers whole place is nothing if not eclectic: a nude adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm
enoord, meets Ajax of Amsterdam, the fur but suitable for anyone who wants information thats more or an old master might be nestled next to a Sun & holidays) is a history museum housing an
always flies. And when Rotterdam unleashed engaging than that from the po-faced official tourist body. 70s bubble TV some kind of installation excellent collection of items relating to Rot-
its extreme form of techno, gabber, on the Also books accommodation with substantial discounts. or a vibrating table. terdams history as a port. Displays are spread
world in the early 90s, one of its most endur- Theres also a good caf, a pleasant sculp- throughout the 1826 warehouse, and many
ing targets was Amsterdam: an early gabber Dangers & Annoyances ture garden (featuring Claes Oldenburgs have a sociological bent.
single was memorably titled Amsterdam, Note that the area about 1km west of CS famous Bent Screw, among others), a library Delfshaven is easily reached from the metro
Waar Lech Dat Dan? (Amsterdam, Where is the scene of many hard-drug deals and with more than 125,000 reference books, and stop of the same name by walking 1km east
the F*** is That?). accompanying dubious behaviour. wheelchair access/assistance throughout. or by taking tram 4, 6 or 9.








210 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m 211

0 500 m
ROTTERDAM 0 0.3 mile
ARCHITECTURE
You wont fail to notice Rotterdams high-

A20 A B BLIJDORP C D E F est building (152m), right next to Centraal

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OUDE Blaak 17
Ha oomp levard
ha

Wester sing
15

Mauritsw
WESTEN B ou
also designed Pariss Pompidou Centre. The
ve

as b
ns

7 k 23 Ma

Mau
dstr Blaa
es

Gouvernestr
r

Jacob
building leans to a sharp angle and rests on
sst

llan
ch

idde
er
ie

ritsst
2e M
Cit

eg
Churchillpl

Wi
a long pole.

el

usstr
SPANGEN 11 21 Oude

lle
V

r
ill Haven
Heemrads Singel

ms
Heemrads Singel

Vier Ambacht sstr CENTRUM WATERSTAD em

Retrace your steps and walk northeast

br
ss

ug
po

Leuvehaven
18 28 or alongside the water on Boompjes, where youll
M

29 tu
eg
at

14 de nn
Alb

'
8 25
erw

see the three distinctive Boompjestorens (Map
he

te Scheepmarkershaven el

es
Schiedamsedijk
ss Math DIJKZIGT Wit ithstr 24
ne

pj
ene
rech gese K

en dij kwal
rlaan enes ark
Spa

om
ath enesse 13 seump
s

serla W 36
se

M Math an pp21011) apartment blocks, built in 1988.

Bo
u
rla

Leuvehaven
tska

r
rijnstr
n

12

g st
M

s
26 Volma

awe en
an

45

aa

e
4
Continue along the water until you see the

ad
tem uss
de de

41

M
47

sk
Marconipl

ch
'' Grav

aa
de
a

35

Ro
3 NIEUWE 3 striking 1998 Willemswerf (Map pp21011), the

we

M
TUSSENDIJKEN MIDDELLAND ka
WESTEN Museumpark 48 NOORDER drik
'S-

eu
Sch Vasteland EILAND Hen en

Wy
headquarters of the huge Nedlloyd shipping

Ni
ied
am
sew Dijkzigt ns av Handelspl i
eg str 10 Pr sh company. Note the dramatic lines casting
sen ng
Delfshaven hus ni
Roc 2

str
ijk Ko
eed
19
shadows on its sleek, white surface.

jes
stz Era
We

elt
40 sm
NIEUWE Another 100m will bring you to Rotter-

Sti
Coo Coolhaven

de
n us
ve lhav bru
ha

ka
en WERK 33 Le
Hu

Coolh g
ile dams other signature bridge, the Willemsbrug

ms
20 vie
Ke aven
ds

ille
37 16 r Vo
Vi

st
on

Veer
ech rs
er

(1981), which makes a bold statement with

W
BOSPOLDER
str

w an Wilhelminapl tkad
ha

5 yte
Voorhaven

Willem
Bu kla
ve

La
Buytew Par 43 e

h
lem 9 Po an
its red pylons. Turn north at Oude Haven on
ns

aven
en echstr
Wil 51 sth
tr

av 49 op
kh 34 um Zu
Le 46
av
en DELFSHAVEN
6
Het ka
d e ala
an
id Geldersekade. The regal 12-storey building on
4 sel
h Park 38 ina 4 the corner is the 1897 Witte Huis (White House;
Par

IJs elm
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

22

30 ilh
Park

31
Map pp21011), a rare survivor of the prewar
kha

W
k 42
edij aven aven
hav
St Jobs

stze
en

SCHIEMOND We Schie
h
kka
de Rijn
H
period, giving an idea of the wealth Rotterdam
en

Rijnhaven
32 Par
ven achieved thanks to the shipping industry.
haven

ha
Schie
Maastunnel

The Overblaak development (Map pp21011),

Hillelaan
z 50
en N designed by Piet Blom and built from 1978 to
Nieuw shav
e Ma KATENDRECHT Maa
as 1984, is near Blaak metro station. Marked by

its pencil-shaped tower and upended, cube-
shaped apartments, it seems plucked straight
5 Sluis
jedijk
Dokhaven 5 from the novels of JG Ballard. One apartment,
Park av en elaan
s H Puts
INFORMATION Nederlands Fotomuseum........... 14 D3 Hotel New York............................30 E4 Maa Maashaven the Show Cube (%414 22 85; www.cubehouse.nl; adult/
Centrale Bibliotheek........................1 E2 Openlucht Binnenvaart Museum..15 F2 Hotel Ocean Paradise...................31 C4
Erasmus MC...................................2 D3 Oude
Waa Kerk.................................16 B4 Hotel Stroom...............................32 C4
under 12yr 2/1.50; h11am-5pm, closed Mon-Thu Jan &
lhav
Post Office......................................3 E2 Overblaaken NDevelopment.............17
Z F2 Maritime la
k
an Rotterdam............33
Hotel
Do
E4 Feb), is open to the public. Look for the tiny
Rotterdam Walk of Fame............18 E3 Do Accommodations.........
Short Stay 34 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Spido Harbour Tours..................19 E3
kla
an 35
Stayokay Rotterdam..................... C3 lsela
an
DRINKING
chess museum in the cube complex, with all
Brie
kinds of chess pieces on display everything

Dordtse Laan
Boompjestorens..............................4 E3 Wereldmuseum..........................20 E4 Locus Publicus..............................44 F2
Waal Haven
Z

De Dubbelde Palmboom................5 B4 Willemswerf...............................21 F2 EATING Willemsbrug.................................45 F3

en O

Euromast........................................6 C4 Windmill....................................22 B4 Blits...............................................36 E3 TARWEWIJK

from ancient Hindu examples to likenesses
Maastunnelpl
lhav

Historisch Museum Het Witte Huis..................................23 F2 Caf Gallery Abrikoos...................37 B4 ENTERTAINMENT of Jabba the Hut.
Waa

Schielandhuis..............................7 E2 Dizzy Jazzcaf.............................(see 47) Club Rotterdam............................46 E4

Huis Sonneveld.............................. 8 D3 SLEEPING Dewi Sri.......................................38 D4
Plein
weg Dizzy Jazzcaf..............................47 C3 The Nederlands Architectuur Instituut (NAI;
6 KPN Telecom Headquarters............9 F4 Bazar Hotel & Restaurant............24 E3 Dudok..........................................39 E2 Gay Palace....................................48 E3 6 Map pp210-11; %440 12 00; www.nai.nl; Museumpark
Kunsthal....................................... 10 D3 Bilderberg Parkhotel Rotterdam..25 D3 Kip................................................40 E3 Luxor Theater...............................49 F4
Maritiem Museum Rotterdam.......11 E2 Hotel Amar................................26 C3 Look.............................................41 C3 Now & Wow................................50 F5 25; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun & holidays),
Museum Boijmans van Beuningen..12
Nederlands Architectuur Instituut..13
D3
D3
Hotel Bienvenue.........................27
Hotel Boat De Clipper.................28
D1
E3
Panorama....................................(see 6)
Parkheuvel...................................42 D4 TRANSPORT
with one side surrounded by a moat and the
Hotel Breitner............................ 29 D3 Zinc............................................. 43 D4 Fast Ferry......................................51 E4 other comprising a sweeping flow of brick
along Rochussenstraat, offers an amazingly

212 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m 213

0 200 m
ROTTERDAM CENTRAL 0 0.1 miles Near here, on Schiedamsedijk, is the Rot- was the departure point for Jews being sent
terdam Walk of Fame (Map pp210-11), featur- first to Westerbork and then on to concen-

A 3 B C D
15 ing handprints from luminaries including tration camps.
17
2
Bryan Adams, Bryan Ferry, Dizzy Gillespie,
Busstation
Diamond David Lee Roth, Kamahl, Roxette, Walking Tour
18
1
16
11
Stadhuis
Willie Nelson and even Spandau Ballet (the Start at the Maritiem Museum Rotterdam (1; op-
4 Netherlands being perhaps the only country in posite) for a maritime history lesson, before
the world that still remembers who they are). making your way to Oude Haven (2; left) for
INFORMATION
The Oude Haven area, near the Blaak train, real-world aquatic nostalgia.
EasyInternetCaf..........................1 D2 metro and tram station, preserves the oldest View the vessels on display at the Openlucht
Tourist Office...............................2 D1 6
Kruis
str pl part of the harbour, some of which dates from Binnenvaart Museum (3; left), then cross the

Cools
huis
Use-It...........................................3 A1 Stad
the 14th century. Its a decent place for a stroll, Willemsbrug (4; p211), drinking in the superb

inge
1
SLEEPING baan
8 e Lijn especially if you take time to look at the large views over the river, before emerging on the

l
Grand Hotel Central.....................4 D1 Kort
collection of historic boats. other side in Noordereiland (5), a residential

2 EATING
Bagels & Beans............................5 C4 The Openlucht Binnenvaart Museum (Map island that has been styled as the MS Noor-
Happy Sushi.................................6 B2 pp210-11; %411 88 67; Koningsdam 1; admission free; dereiland, a ship on the Maas, by artist Joe

Lijnb
h8am-8pm) has a collection of historic inland Cillen, with its 3000 sailors (residents). To

aan
DRINKING 12
Stalles...........................................7 B4 waterway boats that fills much of the basin. the left is De Brug (6), an apartment block with
10
You can see the ongoing restoration and can Cillen-constructed starboard lights on the
de
Kruiska str stroll around looking at the boats, even out- roof (green and red).
West Nes
van
Aert

OUDE WESTEN 14
side the official opening hours. Walk towards Noordereilands eastern tip,
The citys history is preserved at one of the where youll find the ships engine room (7) an
Mauritsw

ENTERTAINMENT centres few surviving 17th-century build- alleyway behind the Aldi supermarket thats
3 De Doelen....................................8 B2
Lantaren/Venster.........................9 A4 ings, at the Historisch Museum het Schielandhuis been decorated with mechanical sculptures by
eg

Night Town................................10 A3 (Map pp210-11; %217 67 67; www.hmr.rotterdam.nl; Korte local artists and kids. Backtrack and walk west
off_corso....................................11 D1
Wester sing

Path Cinemas...........................12 B2 Hoogstraat 31; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, along Maaskade, admiring more watery views
Rotown......................................13 A4 11am-5pm Sat & Sun). Exhibits focus on everyday before stopping in at the maritime-themed

Schouwburg..............................14 C3
life through the ages, such as the (purportedly) pub also named Willemsbrug (8; p217). Here
el

TRANSPORT oldest surviving wooden shoe. Clogs ahoy!

Mau

Bus Station..................................15 B1 5 eg pl
Jacob

Bin nenw The Nederlands Fotomuseum (Map pp210-11;

ritsst

Eurolines Office..........................16 A1
Gouvernestr

WALK FACTS
%213 20 11; www.nederlandsfotomuseum.nl; Witte de With-
usstr

Long-Distance Bus Stops............17 A1

r

RET Information Office...............18 B1

Tram Station............................(see 15) straat 63; adult/child 3.50/2; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a Start Maritiem Museum Rotterdam
ak
4 stbla fabulous photo museum thats also an archive Finish Euromast
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

We

9 and information centre for photographers. Duration Three hours
eg
CENTRUM Its activities were recently bolstered by a be-
7 enw
Binn quest from one H Weertheim, who wanted
13 we
Nieu
Eendrachtspl to further the interests of photography in the Centraal
Station
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Netherlands. Note that the museum is mov- Busstation Stadhuis Oostpl
thorough overview of Dutch architecture. The design and aesthetic seems thoroughly ing to Wilhelminakade 66 in 2007.

Exhibitions are revelatory, and a recent multi- current today; during the 30s it must have Nearby, the Wereldmuseum (World Museum; Map Beurs
Geldersekade
Blaak
media presentation devoted to utopian genius seemed the ultimate in futurism, making full pp210-11; %270 71 72; www.wereldmuseum.rotterdam 3
2
laak
Hendrik Wijdeveld was mind-expanding. use of light and space, and filled with tubular- .nl; Willemskade 25; adult/child 8/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat) is OUDE
Churchillpl
B
Willems-
WESTEN
The NAI is a worthy monument in a city steel furniture and tech gizmos including dedicated to providing a user-friendly reposi- en weg 1 WATERSTAD 4 brug

Schiedamsedijk
Binn

Leuvehaven
uwe CENTRUM
that celebrates built space like no other in no fewer than 12 telephones, considered the tory of multiculturalism for people to use to Nie DIJKZIGT rk
Willems-
spoortunnel 67

es
mpa

pj
the land. height of modern life at the time. better understand each other. Its wonderfully seu Leuvehaven

de
5

om
Mu

ka
aa
Bo
10

s
aa
Included in the admission price is a ticket apt that its in a polyglot port like Rotterdam.

M

8

M
we
Museumpark NOORDER de
to Huis Sonneveld (Map pp210-11; Jongkindstraat25), OTHER SIGHTS The building is dominated by a huge sculpture EILAND rikka ven

eu
d a

Ni
9 en gsh
ijk
designed by Brinkman and Van der Vlugt and Maritiem Museum Rotterdam (Map pp210-11; %413 26 of a stylised woman by artist Nikki de Saint stz
eed
H
ins i
Pr Kon
n

str
We 12

jes
an outstanding example of the Dutch New 80; www.maritiemmuseum.nl; Leuvehaven 1; adult/4-16yr 5/3; Phalle. Enter through the statues legs.

de
NIEUWE

elt
ska
WERK 11

Sti
lem
Building architectural strain (also known h10am-5pm Tue-Sat & 11am-5pm Sun year-round, 10am- On the south side of the Koningshaven, in an Erasmusbrug

Wil
kla 13 Wilhelminapl
Par Po La
as Dutch functionalism). This 1933 villa 5pm Mon Jul & Aug) is a comprehensive museum the middle of an old dock district being reborn Het ka
de sth
um
an
op
Park ina ala Zu
has been lovingly restored, with furniture, that looks at the Netherlands rich maritime as a trendy neighbourhood, there is a solemn 15 14
ilh
elm an id
W
wallpaper and fixtures present and correct traditions. Theres an array of models that any reminder of the recent past. A fragment of a ade Hav
en
kk Rijn Rijnhaven
it is an astonishing experience, almost like youngster would love to take into the tub, plus wall has been preserved here the wall once Par

virtual reality. more interesting and explanatory displays. surrounded a warehouse that, during WWII,
 214 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
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. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m 215

you can have a beer and a sea-dog sing-along Festivals & Events BUDGET are divine and come in various configurations,
with the feisty locals. JANUARYFEBRUARY Hotel Amar (Map pp210-11; %425 57 95; www.amarhotel from standard to penthouse.
Emerging from the cigar smoke, walk International Film Festival Rotterdam (www.film .nl; Mathenesserlaan 316; s/d 30/50; i) This friendly, Maritime Hotel Rotterdam (Map pp210-11; %411 92
through the ships cargo holds (9), actually the festivalrotterdam.com) From late January to early February. A small place is in a leafy neighbourhood close 60; www.maritimehotel.nl; Willemskade 13; s/tw from 69/88;
streets and alleys bisecting the island, before top-notch selection of independent and experimental films. to the Museumpark and to good shopping i) This hotel ostensibly caters to sea-men
making your way across the Koninginnebrug. and nightlife. Rooms are simple but comfy, ashore from their boats, but all are welcome.
Look to the left as you cross the water: De Hef JUNE and the ones at the back overlook a large and The modern facility boasts free internet access,
(10) is a magnificent railway bridge from the De Parade (www.deparade.nl) A nationwide inverse- peaceful garden. a big breakfast buffet and a cheap bar with pool
1920s thats been preserved as a National circus tour, where the audiences are in the ring and all Short Stay Accommodations (Map pp210-11; %295 table. Its a friendly, all-in kind of place.
Monument, its drawbridge permanently manner of music, theatre, film and variety performances 35 62; Willem Buytewechstraat 206; d 18; n) This great Grand Hotel Central (Map p212; %414 07 44;
raised high in the air. go on around them. It hits all the big cities and has an budget apartment setup spans three floors Kruiskade 12; s/d 80/95) If youre into kitsch, youll
Walk west along Stieltjesstraat, before incredibly lively atmosphere. Entrys usually free and with a couple of different sharing options. like it here: the dcor looks like it hasnt been
crossing the incredible Erasmusbrug (11; performances are on a pay-per-view basis. The owners are just fine and the place is clean, updated for 40 years, yet its addictively comfy
p211). Back on the Maas northern side, walk Poetry International Festival (www.poetry.nl) Held in with laundry facilities and linen included. and invitingly atmospheric. Youll feel like
west along Willemskade, past the Maritime late June, hosting top-notch poets from all over the world. Hotel Boat De Clipper (Map pp210-11; %331 42 44; kicking back with a Martini while wearing
Hotel Rotterdam (12; opposite), where sailors Scheepmakershaven; B&B from 30; i) This botel, something bright orange and flammable. The
like to sleep, before pausing at Veerhaven JULY docked in Rotterdams old harbour, is perfect rooms are great, service similar.
(13), a little inlet where numerous boats and North Sea Jazz Festival (www.northseajazz.nl) One for soaking up the citys maritime atmos- Hotel Ocean Paradise (Map pp210-11; %436 17 02;
yachts are docked. Look back towards the of the worlds most-respected jazz events, drawing some phere, even if the quarters are, inevitably, a www.oceanparadise.nl; Parkhaven 21; s/d from 58/68) The
Erasmusbrug and marvel at how the bridges of the best musicians on the planet. Rooms throughout little cramped. Ocean Paradise is actually a floating hotel/
struts in the background blend in with the the region will be at a premium as thousands of fans Other options: Chinese restaurant/Asian supermarket pavil-
sails and masts in the foreground a thor- descend on the city from all around. Youre best off staying City Camping of Rotterdam (%415 34 40; Kanaalweg ion; it looks like an aquatic temple. Naturally,
oughly shiplike bridge for a maritime city elsewhere and commuting, or booking far in advance. A 84; camp sites per person/tent 4.95/3.90, 2-person cabins the rooms have an Oriental theme, and are not
par excellence. lot of the acts organise smokin unofficial jams outside the 30) A 20-minute walk northwest from CS, or take bus 33 too bad, although they get a little hot in summer.
Continue on down Westerkade, then Park- festival dates, a kind of prefestival minifestival. Its held (direction: Airport). Its in a nice part of town, next to the Euromast
kade, passing the government boats anchored in mid-July. Stayokay Rotterdam (Map pp210-11; %436 57 63; and surrounding parks and greenery.
in the harbour, before walking through the Zomer Carnaval (Summer Carnival; www.zomercarnaval www.stayokay.com/rotterdam; Rochussenstraat 107-109; Other options:
beautiful, and surprisingly green, Het Park (14) .nl) Usually held on the last weekend of July. A carnival- dm from 20.25; i) Typically well-run link in the Hotel Bienvenue (Map pp210-11; %466 93 94; www
to the Euromast (15; p209). Once there, travel like bash with music, parades, dancing and parties. Stayokay chain; well placed for the museums and with a .hotelbienvenue.nl; Spoorsingel 24B; s/d from 48/65;
to the summit and look back over the city: Zomerpodium (Summer Stage; www.loederevents.nl low-key bar. i) In a quiet, though central, area; cosy rooms.
from a height of 185m youll be able to pick /zomer.html) Starting towards the end of July and running Hotel Breitner (Map pp210-11; %436 02 62; www
out in exact detail the entire route youve just into August, Zomerpodium features all manner of outland- MIDRANGE .hotelbreitner.nl; Breitnerstraat 23; s/d from 68/85; i)
travelled, as well as fully appreciate just how ish excuses to get crazy in the streets of Rotterdam. Theres Hotel New York (Map pp210-11; %439 05 00; www Near Museumpark.
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

mighty the harbour is. been a Bollywood Ball, brass band contests, stand-up .hotelnewyork.nl; Koninginnenhoofd 1; d from 98) The citys Hotel Emma (Map p212; %436 55 33; www.hotel
comedy and more. favourite hotel is housed in the former head- emma.nl; Nieuwe Binnenweg 6; s/d from 79/99; i)
Tours quarters of the Holland-America passenger- Good locale; comfy rooms.
There are harbour tours offered daily by Spido AUGUST ship line, and has excellent service and facilities.
(%275 99 88; www.spido.nl; Willemsplein 85; adult/child FFWD Heineken Dance Parade (www.ffwdheineken Often booked far in advance, its noted for its TOP END
8.50/5.50; h9.30am-5pm Jun-Sep, 11am-3.30pm Oct, to danceparade.nl) Turns the centre into one big open-air club views, caf and boat shuttle that takes guests Hotel Stroom (Map pp210-11; %221 40 60; www.stroom
2pm Thu-Sun Nov-Mar). Departures are from the with areas for techno, hip-hop, big beat etc. Floats on the across the Nieuwe Maas to the centre. The rotterdam.nl; Lloydstraat 1; d from 135) Stroom is the
pier at Leuvehoofd near the Erasmusbrug and backs of trucks drive through town, catering to a crowd of Art Nouveau rooms with many original and rising star of the Rotto accommodation scene,
the Leuvehaven metro stop. Longer trips are around 350,000 people. painstakingly restored dcor items and fittings a brand-new designer hotel thats actually a
possible in the high season.
Rotterdam ByCycle (www.rotterdambycycle.nl) SEPTEMBER
conducts pedal-powered tours (from 15) Wereld Havendagen (World Harbour Festival; www MIDDLE EAST MEETS ROTTERDAM
and also rents out bikes, while Rotterdam .wereldhavendagen.nl) Celebrates the role of the harbour, Bazar Hotel & Restaurant (Map pp210-11; %206 51 51; www.hotelbazar.nl; Witte de Withstraat 16; s/d from
ArchiGuides (www.rotterdam-archiguides.nl) takes which directly or indirectly employs over 300,000 people. 60/75) Bazar is deservedly popular for its Middle Eastern, African and South Americanthemed
groups on a tour of built space the citys There are lots of open houses, ship tours and fireworks. rooms: lush, brocaded curtains, exotically tiled bathrooms, comfy beds, and copies of Tales from
architectural highlights via bicycle, bus or the Arabian Nights scattered about. Breakfast is spectacular: Turkish breads, international cheeses,
shoe leather (group prices only). The tourist Sleeping yogurt, fruit, cold cuts and coffee.
office, in association with the Nederlands The tourist office makes room reservations, as This is an exceptional place to wind down, particularly as its ground-floor bar and restaurant
Architectuur Instituut (p211), also offers does Use-It (p208), the latter with substantial (mains 8 to 13.90, open lunch and dinner) is among the towns best, coming up trumps with
Rotterdam architecture tours. For more de- sometimes incredible discounts. In fact, its similarly stylised Middle Eastern dcor and matching menu: dolmades, falafel, mussels, sardines,
tailed information, call the NAI or drop into worth checking with Use-It before you do couscous and kebabs served up in tangy, attention-grabbing combinations.
the tourist office. anything sleep-related.
 216 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m Book accommodation
w wonline
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converted power station. Spiffy design stu- This ones especially recommended for single Happy Sushi (Map p212; %433 47 30; Kruisplein 42; phar side for phreaks and scenesters who like
dios come in a range of configurations, such people, Buffy and Francophiles. Look is a cosy sushi from 1.60; hlunch & dinner) Sushi on a con- it meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. Restaurants
as the videostudio option, a jaw-dropping little restaurant that specialises in garlic-based veyor belt; you cant go wrong. good, too.
split-level fancy under a glass roof with a dishes: steamed garlic, fried garlic, garlic soup, Bagels & Beans (Map p212; www.bagelsbeans.nl; Lijn- Gay Palace (Map pp210-11; %414 14 86; www
downstairs open bathroom. garlic vegetableseven garlic dessert, on oc- baan 150; bagels from 2.95; h11am-6pm Mon, 9.30am- .gay-palace.nl; Schiedamsesingel 139) And here we have
Bilderberg Parkhotel Rotterdam (Map pp210-11; casion. Its delicious and you can even be a 6pm Tue-Thu, 9.30am-9pm Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Rotterdams only weekly gay nightclub, with
%436 36 11; www.parkhotelrotterdam.nl; Westersingel 70; spoilsport and plump for nongarlic dishes. Sun) Tasty bagels, good coffee, wi-fi access. four floors of throbbing gay action differ-
s/d from 115/165; ainp) Smack bang amid Panorama (Map pp210-11; %436 48 11; www.euro Maoz (www.maozveg.com; Coolsingel 87; felafels 3.50; ent scenes on each floor to work you into
Rotterdams most notable sights and attrac- mast.nl; Euromast, Parkhaven 20; mains 11-20; hlunch hlunch) Felafel pita-bread sandwiches that a lather and get you sweaty.
tions, the Parkhotel mainly caters to short stay & dinner) This brasserie has the best location, can be refilled as much as you like with salad Club Rotterdam (Map pp210-11; %290 84 42; www
business travellers year-round that means in the midsection of the Euromast tower. toppings and sauces. .cafrotterdam.nl; Willhelminakade 699) A popular club-
bargains and last-minute deals (for leisure At 100m it almost doesnt matter about the bar-caf complex that draws clubbers, groo-
travellers) when summer occupancy is well food, with that kind of view and a design Drinking vers, wannabes and hangers-on.
down. Rooms are comfy, clean and have all to maximise it (the angled windows impart Stalles (Map p212; %436 16 55; Nieuwe Binnenweg 11A)
the mod cons. the odd sensation of eating in mid-air). Its a This classic brown caf is on a great stretch LIVE MUSIC
bonus, then, that the menu is up to scratch: of road near plenty of good shops, cafs and Rotown (Map p212; %436 26 69; www.rotown.nl; Nieuwe
Eating fillet of suckling pig and grilled mackerel were bars. It has an extensive range of single malt Binnenweg 19) A smooth bar, a dependable live
Rotterdam has many wonderful places to eat. recent offerings. whiskys and some reasonable food, including rock venue, an agreeable restaurant, a popu-
The citys (always growing) multicultural Kip (Chicken; Map pp210-11; %436 99 23; www.kip pizza and lasagne. lar meeting place. The musical programme
population and a steady stream of corporate -rotterdam.nl; Van Vollenhovenstraat 25; mains 20-25; Locus Publicus (Map pp210-11; %433 17 61; www features new local talent, established inter-
clientele floating through town on business hdinner Tue-Sun) A lovely place thats more .locus-publicus.com; Oostzeedijk 364) With more than national acts and crossover experiments.
means that choices are widely varied. elegant than its moniker might imply. Its 200 beers on its menu, this is an outstanding Dizzy Jazzcaf (Map pp210-11; %477 30 14; www
Dudok (Map pp210-11; %433 31 02; www.dudok.nl; won a swag of Lekkers (the Dutch restaurant specialist beer caf. .dizzy.nl; s-Gravendijkwal 129) Live music Tuesday
Meent 88; breakfast 1.90-11, lunch 3.30-9.50, dinner 9.90- awards) and has crisp, white tablecloths, a Willemsbrug (Map pp210-11; %413 58 68; Maaskade nights and Sunday afternoons. The evening
14.90; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This Rotterdam dainty dining room, and delicious and im- 95) This old-time, maritime-themed pub at- performances are scorching: everything from
institution, housed in a former insurance maculately prepared meat, poultry and veg- tracts salty sea dogs. Its not for those with hot jazz to fast and funky Brazilian and salsa,
office designed by WM Dudok, has a wonder- etable concoctions with a haute cuisine feel. weak lungs the airs blue with cigarette, with a very lively, sweaty crowd jumping out
ful spacious feel with its high ceilings and big Other options: cigar and pipe smoke (and probably blue with of their skins.
windows. Whether youre here for a meal, a Dewi Sri (Map pp210-11; %436 02 63; www.dewisri.nl; salty language if you understand Dutch well De Doelen (Map p212; %217 17 17; www.dedoelen
drink or a snack, you must try the scrummy Westerkade 20; mains 15-20; hlunch & dinner) Great enough). But the staff and clientele are a bit .nl; Schouwburgplein 50) This is where you will find
apple pie (2.90), famous throughout Rot- Indonesian food. Also at Grindweg 650 (%422 36 25). of a laugh theyre liable to turn the cheesy the home ground of the Rotterdam Phil-
terdam and surrounds. Solo travellers will Zinc (Map pp210-11; %436 65 79; Calandstraat 12A; set music up full bore and indulge in a woefully harmonic Orchestra, a sumptuous concert
love the large reading table. menu 25; hdinner Tue-Sun) Cosy, chic French/Mediter- off-key sing-along at any time. centre that dates from 1935 and seats 1300.
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ranean bistro using only organic produce. The orchestra is world class.
RESTAURANTS Entertainment
Parkheuvel (Map pp210-11; %436 05 30; Heuvelaan 21; 3- CAFS CLUBS COFFEESHOPS
course menu from 50; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) Caf Gallery Abrikoos (Map pp210-11; %477 41 40; Now & Wow (Map pp210-11; %477 10 74; www.now-wow Theres a huge number of coffeeshops in Rot-
Some say its the Netherlands best restaurant www.abrikoos.nl; Aelbrechtskolk 51; tapas from 4.75; hdin- .com; Maashaven 1) Many believe this to be Rottos terdam, probably the highest concentration
as one of only two Dutch fancies with three ner Tue-Sun) This is a bright and cheery tapas bar best club. Its an astoundingly popular and outside the capital. Some are dodgy ask
Michelin stars, its got a strong claim. The filled with art and a variety of soups, salads cool place, divided in two: Now for main- Use-It for a list of reliable faves.
French-international menu is especially fab and mains, and wicked Mediterranean mini- stream house, and Wow for funky beats.
with seafood red mullet with balsamic dress- meals. Addictive and a great way to start a Theme nights with titles like Superbimbo THEATRE
ing, anyone? long evening. say it all. Watch out for the door bitch: she Schouwburg (Map p212; %411 81 10; www.schouw
Blits (Map pp210-11; %282 90 51; www.blits-rotterdam Dizzy Jazzcaf (Map pp210-11; %477 30 14; s-Grav- doesnt like shabby backpackers. burg.rotterdam.nl; Schouwburgplein 25) The main cul-
.nl; Boompjes 701; mains 12-25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) endijkwal 129; mains 10-15; hlunch & dinner) One of off_corso (Map p212; %411 38 97; www.off-corso.nl; tural centre, the Schouwburg has a rotating
It was only a matter of time. In a city that loves the citys best music bars (opposite) is also a Kruiskade 22) Then there are others who say that calendar of dance, theatre and drama. Note
diverse food and cutting-edge architecture, popular restaurant, with a gorgeous garden this is where its at a varied roster of enter- the intriguing light fixtures with red necks
heres a restaurant that combines both: wall- terrace. Authentic Dutch dishes keep it real, tainment and late-night action that sees bleed- out the front.
length windows looking out over the Maas, including a dessert called Chocolate Slut. ing-edge local and international DJs mashing Luxor Theater (Map pp210-11; %484 33 33; www
and a classy international menu. Seating ar- up a high-fibre diet of bleepsnbeats. .luxortheater.nl; Posthumalaan 1) A major new per-
rangements are out there: try the bench with QUICK EATS Night Town (Map p212; %436 12 10; www.nighttown formance venue, the Luxor features every kind
pillows or the Love Suite, a heart-shaped, Daily Wok (% 411 20 02; www.dailywok.nl; Oude .nl; West Kruiskade 26-28) Fencesitters, on the other of entertainment you can possibly imagine.
rich-red enclosure. Binnenweg 106C; dishes 4-7; hlunch & dinner) Wicked hand, might come here for a fun-kung-fu-sion Check out its excellent website or pick up one
Look (Map pp210-11; %436 70 00; www.restaurant noodles all persuasions and varieties, in- urban mash up of jazz, reggae, pop, Latin, of its abundant programmes around town for
look.nl; s-Gravendijkwal; mains 13-20; hdinner Wed-Sun) cluding vegetarian. funk and house choons: phat beats from the more details.
 218 Z U I D H O L L A N D R o t t e r d a m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D A r o u n d R o t t e r d a m 219

CINEMA TRAIN AROUND ROTTERDAM Several of the most important types of

Rotterdam hosts the annual International Rotterdam CS is on the main line from Am- Kinderdijk windmills are here, including hollow post
Film Festival (p214), which has been described sterdam south, and Thalys services between The Kinderdijk (Childs Dike; www.kinderdijk.nl) is the mills and rotating cap mills. The latter are
as the European Sundance. Brussels and Paris stop here. See p308 for best spot in the Netherlands to see windmills. among the highest in the country as they were
De Pleinbioscoop (Lloyd Multiplein; hmid-AugSep) details. Declared a Unesco World Heritage site in built to better catch the wind. The mills are
Annual, free, open-air screening season: clas- Sample fares and schedules: 1997, it has 19 windmills strung out on both kept in operating condition and date from
sics, art-house and blockbusters. sides of canals. These canals were dug behind the 18th century.
Lantaren/Venster (Map p212; %cashier 277 22 Destination Price Duration Frequency the tall dykes constructed at the confluence A visit to Kinderdijk can easily occupy at
66; Gouvernestraat 133) Great central art-house () (min) (per hr) of the Lek river and several tributaries and least half a day. From the bus stop and park-
alternative. channels. ing area there are more than 4km of paths
Path Cinemas (Map p212; %www.pathe.nl; Schouw- Amsterdam 12.60 62 4 This spot has been a focus of Dutch efforts along the dykes that run past the windmills.
burgplein 101) This multiplex has the usual Holly- Den Haag 4.10 15 4 to reclaim land from the water for centuries. On any Saturday in July and August from
wood selection as well as some lesser lights. Middelburg 17.60 90 1 Its a starkly beautiful area, with the wind- 2pm to 5pm, all of the 19 windmills are in
Utrecht 8.60 40 2 mills rising above the empty marshes and operation, an unforgettable sight that was
Shopping waterways. Exacerbating the feeling of having once common but is now impossible to find
Unlike the rest of the country, Rotterdam has Getting Around stepped through a ripple in the spacetime anywhere else. At other times of the year,
gone for Sunday shopping in a big way. Most TO/FROM THE AIRPORT continuum is the endless structural creak- one of the mills functions as a visitors centre
stores in the centre are open noon to 5pm. Bus 33 makes the 15-minute run from the ing and groaning of the shiplike mills. Its (%078-613 28 00; admission 2; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-
The Beurstraverse (known locally as the Koop- airport to CS every 12 minutes throughout only once you hear these ghostly sounds that Sat Apr-Sep).
goot, or Shopping Ditch) runs from Lijnbaan the day. A taxi takes 10 minutes to get to the can you really appreciate what delicate skill Take a local train from Rotterdam CS to
to Hoogstraat and passes under Coolsingel. centre and costs around 20. must have been (and must still be) required Rotterdam Lombardijen station, then catch
Nieuwe Binnenweg is a mix of stylish restaur- to operate a mill, particularly in inclement the hourly bus 154. By car, take the N210
ants, coffee shops, old boozers and stores selling BICYCLE weather. 12km east from Rotterdam.
used CDs, vintage clothing and plastic/fluores- The bicycle shop at CS is underground, off
cent club wear. The Meent has secondhand and the metro station.
retro clothing shops, and West Kruiskade has a BLOWING IN THE WIND
welter of ethnic groceries and stores. Theres a CAR & MOTORCYCLE You dont need us to tell you that windmills are a Dutch icon, but did you know that the earliest
cluster of great cafs, restaurants and shops on Rotterdam has numerous places to park, in- known windmills appeared in the 13th century, simply built around a tree trunk? The next leap
and near the Witte de Withstraat. cluding along the streets. Look for the blue P in technology came 100 years later, when a series of gears ensured the mill could be used for
signs for large and enclosed garages. all manner of activities, the most important of which was pumping water. Hundreds of these
Getting There & Away windmills were soon built on dykes throughout Holland and the mass drainage of land began.
AIR PUBLIC TRANSPORT The next major advancement in Dutch windmill technology came in the 16th century with
See p304 for details of air services to and from Rotterdams trams, buses and metro are the invention of the rotating cap mill. Rather than having to turn the huge body of the mill-top
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Rotterdam. provided by RET (%447 69 11; www.ret.nl). Most to face the wind, the operators could rotate just the tip, which contained the hub of the sails.
converge in front of CS, where there is an This made it possible for mills to be operated by just one person.
BUS information office (h 6am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am- Besides pumping water, mills were used for many other industrial purposes, such as sawing
Rotterdam is a hub for Eurolines bus services 11pm Sat & Sun) that also sells tickets. There wood, making clay for pottery and, most importantly for art lovers, crushing the pigments used
to the rest of Europe. See p301 for details. are other information booths in the major by painters.
metro stations. By the mid-19th century there were over 10,000 windmills operating in all parts of the Nether-
BOAT Public transport in Rotterdam is easy. For lands. But the invention of the steam engine soon made them obsolete. By the end of the 20th
The Fast Ferry (%09002666399; www.fastferry.nl; per destinations in the centre you wont need century there were only 950 operable windmills left, but this number seems to have stabilised
passenger one way/return 2.50/3.50, bike 1/2) links Rot- to use it, but for Delfshaven and even Oude and there is great interest in preserving the survivors. The Dutch government runs a three-year
terdam with Dordrecht and is a good option Haven you might want a lift. school for prospective windmill operators, who must be licensed.
for day trips, or in place of the train. The boat The metro operates two lines, one of which Running one of the mills on a windy day is as complex as being the skipper of a large sailing
leaves from Willemskade at least once an hour terminates at CS. Beurs/Churchillplein is the ship, and anyone whos been inside a mill and listened to the massive timbers creaking will be
during the day, and takes 45 minutes. interchange station between the lines. Ma- aware of the similarities. The greatest hazard is a runaway, when the sails begin turning so fast
chines to validate tickets are at the station that they cant be slowed down. This frequently ends in catastrophe as the mill remorselessly
CAR & MOTORCYCLE entrances. tears itself apart.
Rotterdam is well linked by motorways to Fast and frequent trams cover much of the Its sad to see abandoned mills stripped of sails and standing forlorn and denuded, especially
the rest of the Netherlands and Belgium. Car city. Validate your strip ticket on board. On since these days youre more likely to see turbine-powered wind farms in the Dutch countryside
rental firms at the airport: buses, have the driver validate your strips. rather than rows of windmills. However, there are opportunities to see working examples, espe-
Avis (%298 24 24) cially at Kinderdijk (above), and at Zaanse Schans (p154) in Noord Holland.
Budget (%437 86 22) TAXI Just about every operable windmill in the nation is open to visitors on National Mill Day,
Europcar (%437 18 26) For a taxi, call the Rotterdamse Taxi Centrale usually on the second Saturday of May. Look for windmills flying little blue flags.
Hertz (%415 82 39) (%462 60 60).
 220 Z U I D H O L L A N D D o r d re c h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z U I D H O L L A N D D o r d re c h t 221

DORDRECHT charming architecture, a legacy youll fully Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat). The library (%613 00 77; Groen- date from the peak of the wine trade, when the
%078 / pop 118,649 appreciate as you wander the oval-shaped markt 53; internet per hr 2; hnoon-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm nearby canals were filled with boats bearing
Affable Dordrecht, with its lovely canals old town. Sat) is in a large, modernised building. the fruits of the fermented grape.
and busy port, sits at the confluence of the The street ends at an attractive bridge. Pass
Oude Maas river and several tributaries and Orientation Sights & Activities along the west or left side of the canal to the
channels. This strategic trading position The train station is a good 700m walk from See Dordrecht on foot: its eminently suited to river and the Groothoofdspoort, once the main
(precipitating a boom in the wine trade), the centre, a journey that passes through some it. Begin at the Visbrug, the bridge over Wijn- gate into town. Walk west along the pavement
along with the fact that it is the oldest Dutch less interesting, newer areas. In the old town, haven that gives fine views of the dignified and view the traffic on the waterways and
city (having been granted a town charter in most of the sights are on or near the three old town hall. At the north end of Visbrug, turn Oude Maas river.
1220), ensured that Dordrecht was one of canals the Nieuwehaven, the Wolwevers- right onto Groenmarkt. As you walk northeast Circling to the south youll see the Kuipers-
the most powerful Dutch regions until the haven and the Wijnhaven. youll pass the oldest houses in town, many haven, the street along the Wolwevershaven,
mid- to late 16th century. Accordingly, in from the early 1600s. another old canal lined with beautifully
1572, it was here that town leaders from all Information At the next square, Scheffersplein, cross di- restored wine warehouses and filled with
over Holland met to declare independence The tourist office (%632 24 40; www.vvvzhz.nl; Station- agonally to Voorstraat, the main retail street. many pleasure boats. Watch for artisans at

from Spain. sweg 1; hnoon-5.30pm Mon, 9am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am- The canal runs under this area, which is home work in their studios in the old buildings.
Dordrechts historical significance and 4pm Sat) is near the train station, as is the post to numerous markets. At the tiny bridge, cross over to the north
former affluence is evidenced in its intact, office (%613 21 11; Johan de Wittstraat 120; h9am-6pm The Augustinerkerk, an old church with a side of the Nieuwehaven. On the right, watch
faade dating from 1773, is a little further for the Museum 19401945 (%613 01 72; http://
DORDRECHT 0
0
500 m
0.3 mi
along on the right. Just past it, watch carefully museum4045.100free.com/index.htm; Nieuwehaven 28;
for a passage leading to Het Hof, where the adult/child 1.50/0.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun).
A B C D setting alone especially at night is moody It has a collection of materials from WWII
Groothoofdspoort and evocative. It was here that the states of and shows the privations of the region during
Beneden M
erwede Holland and Zeeland met in 1572. the war. Look for the propeller prised from a
Merweka
1 Boomstr
de
19
Back on Voorstraat, continue north to the Lancaster bomber.
aa
s next bridge over the canal: Nieuwbrug. Cross Nearby, the Museum Simon van Gijn (%613 37
jk

eM over to Wijnstraat and turn right, continuing 93; http://cms.dordrecht.nl/gijn; Nieuwehaven 29; admission
n

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north. Many of the lopsided houses along here 5; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) depicts the life of an
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Brug 15 r gov
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ot name is Ooi-en Ramsgat (Ewes and Rams Hole) and the locals are known as Schapenkoppen
2 5
nm Vo
(Sheepheads), nomenclatures deriving from the 17th century when sheep from elsewhere were
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

oe 14

Schefferspl
tr

1 Gr
ms

13 6 Sin
heavily taxed.
eu

17 t 16
Visbrug
us

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7 rt w Legend says that a farmer and his son bought a choice, fat sheep from outside town and
Sp est

Grote Kerks bu u
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es then attempted to smuggle it inside the city gates, dressing the bemused beast to look like a
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small, fat child with baggy breeches, a voluminous shirt, and a hat with a wide, floppy brim.
t

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The two geniuses then grabbed a foreleg each and made the sheep walk, with a noticeable
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wobble, on its hind legs.

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Spuib ies Confronted by a guard at the town gate, they explained away the sheep-childs wobbling
oo

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INFORMATION rd
gait as tiredness and were through with no problems until the sheep, whod had enough, let
Va

Library..........................................1 B2
3 12
Johan de Wittstr

Post Office...................................2 C3 2 out a very loud, very unmistakable, baaaaa. Thus the deception was unravelled and the farmer
Tourist Office...............................3 C3
To Biesbosch
had to pay double the tax.
PSIGHTS
a ra & ACTIVITIES Albert rk (4km); Stayokay What this bizarre tale says about the beauty, intelligence or posture of the locals at that time
l l el Cuyp Pa Dordrecht (5km)
Augustinerkerk............................
we 4 C2 singe nje
r

g l
Beverschaep.................................5 B2 O
ra is for you to judge, but, to be fair, Dordrecht wasnt the only 17th-century Dutch town to have
To Hotel Dordrecht (700m); 3

Dordrechts Museum....................6 C2 had an unnatural attachment to stupidity and livestock (see p262 for the tale of Kampen and
Stations-

Rotterdam (14km)
Haven 7
Grote Kerk................................... B2 an
ela
weg

str
Het Hof........................................8 C2 lo ns the cows).
Museum 1940-1945....................9 B2 Burg de ou
train Raadtsing
el
T Actually, Dordrecht was pretty sheepish even in the 16th century: a Man of God at the time
Museum Simon van Gijn............10 B2
Kr

18
Weizigtpark decried that there are some ten or twelve places in the neighbourhood of Dordrechtwith
om
uslaan

Town Hall..................................11 B2 station

Transvaalst
me

r
neither ministers nor services. The inhabitants of these same places daily complain and cry out,
dij
Erasm

SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
k

4 n
tlaa 12 C3
Klarenbeek.................................
o
Filmhuis Cinode.........................16 D2 Alas we are like sheep without shepherds, we live without religion and hear nothing of God.
Gro Jazzpodium................................17 B2
EATING go
de we
g Even today the town cant escape the past: Dordrechts football team features a player called
Hu ritz
Caf Miro...................................
Hugo de 13 B2 TRANSPORT au what else? Olaf Sheep.
M
Grootpl
De Hut.......................................
14 B2 Bus Station.................................18 C4
Marktzicht..................................15 B2 Fast Ferry Pier............................19 D1 Honestly, you couldnt make this stuff up.
 222 Z U I D H O L L A N D D o r d re c h t Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z E E L A N D 223

18th-century patrician, with vintage knick- Other options: Buses leave from the area to your right as and you can rent kayaks and canoes (from 5
knacks, furnishings and tapestries. Klarenbeek (%614 41 33; Johan de Wittstraat 35; s/d you exit the train station. Youll find bus 388 per half an hour) to explore the park and its
Continue southwest to the Engelenburger- 65/75) Near the tourist office. serves Utrecht every hour. many channels and streams. There are also
brug over the Nieuwehavens access to the Bastion Hotel (%651 15 33; Laan der Verenigde Naties For those with car or motorcycle in tow, numerous trails through the marshlands and
Oude Maas. Take an immediate right onto 363; d from 78) Business hotel near an industrial estate the busy E19 south to Belgium and north to along the river.
narrow Engelenburgerkade. At No 18, Bever- on the ring road. Rotterdam and beyond passes close to town. The centre is also the boarding place for
schaep (Beaver & Sheep House) is a 1658 struc- Mercure Hotel Dordrecht (%618 44 44; Rijksstraat- The Fast Ferry (%09002666399; www.fastferry.nl; a variety of boat tours of the Biesbosch. The
ture that takes its name from the animals weg 30; s/d 99/109) Standard business hotel, with all the per passenger one way/return 2.50/3.50, bike 1/2) links longer cruises are better value, though, be-
supporting a coat of arms over the door. usual facilities. Dordrecht with Rotterdam. The boat leaves cause they go to more places, including the
At the end of the street is Blauwpoort, an- from Merwekade, which is at stop 12 on the Biesboschmuseum on the southern shore of the
other old trading gate. Eating bus 20 route, and takes 45 minutes. Nieuwe Merwede.
Caf Miro (%620 00 17; fax 684 98 50; Voorstraat 256B;
GROTE KERK tapas from 4) A bright, bold yellow tapas bar BIESBOSCH NATIONAL PARK Sleeping
The massive tower of the 14th- to 15th-century thats visually unmissable and named after Covering 7100 hectares, Biesbosch National Stayokay Dordrecht (%621 21 67; www.stayokay.com
Grote Kerk (%614 46 60; www.grotekerk-dordrecht.nl; one of Spains greatest 20th-century paint- Park encompasses an area on both banks of /dordrecht; Baanhoekweg 25; dm from 22.25) This place
Langegeldersekade 2; admission church free, tower adult/child ers. The Latina vibe carries through from the the Nieuwe Merwede River, east and south of includes a youth hostel, camping ground and
1/0.50; h10.30am-4.30pm Apr-Oct, noon-4pm Sun) was dcor to the tapas on offer. The food is great; Dordrecht. Its so big that it sprawls across a hotel. The hotel, which has a bar and restau-
originally meant to have been much higher, fresh, tasty and fairly priced. Its definitely a provincial border; theres a region known as rant, is in a modern building right next to the
but it took on a lean during its 150-year-plus design highlight on the otherwise bland shop- the Brabantse Biesbosch, further east, while park and is 1km west of the visitors centre.
construction. You can climb to the top ping street that is the Voorstraat. the part in this province is the Hollandse Its a good idea to reserve accommodation
275 steps to enjoy excellent views of the De Hut (%635 20 01; Voorstraat 293; daily special 9; Biesbosch. Before 1421 the area was polder here in advance.
town. Inside, the choir stalls are finely carved hlunch & dinner) An innovative fast-food option land and had a population of over 100,000
and there are several pleasing stained-glass fusing Dutch and Indonesian styles, mean- living in over 70 villages. However, the huge Getting There & Away
windows. ing hearty ingredients livened up by spicier storm on St Elizabeths Day (18 November) The Stayokay and the park are easy bike rides
sauces. Cheap broodjes (sandwiches; 2.50 to that year breached the dykes, and floodwaters from the Dordrecht train station. Otherwise,
DORDRECHTS MUSEUM 4) are fresh, tasty and best accompanied by destroyed all the villages virtually everyone bus 5 (every 30 minutes) travels to within 2km
Away from the old town, the Dordrechts Museum one of the excellent juices. lost their life. of Stayokay and 3km of the park.
(%648 21 48; www.dordrechtsmuseum.nl; Museumstraat 40; Marktzicht (%613 25 84; www.visrestaurant-markt However, out of this calamity grew both The easiest option is to get a taxi from
adult/child 5/3; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) has works by zicht.nl; Varkenmarkt 17-19; mains 20-35; hdinner new life and a new lifestyle. The floods created Dordrecht station direct to the Stayokay site,
local artists. Most noteworthy are pieces by Tue-Sat) Well, this is nice! Here you will find several channels in their wake, including what then rent a bike there and use it to get around
Jan van Goyen (15961656) and Albert Cuyp most-agreeable, superfresh seafood served is today called the Nieuwe Merwede. Linked the park/area or into town.
(162091). Van Goyen was one of the first in a somewhat old-world, aquatic-themed to the sea, these areas were subject to twice-
Dutch painters to capture the interplay of light interior. Angler-fish medallions, bluefin tuna daily high tides, leading to the growth of tide-
ZEELAND
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

on landscapes look for his View of Dordrecht pepper-steaks and scampi burgers were some loving reed plants, which the descendants of
while Cuyp, who lived in Dordrecht his entire of the recent delights on offer. the floods survivors took to cultivating.
life, is known for his many works painted in Fast forward to 1970 when the Delta Project The province of Zeeland consists of three slivers
and around his hometown. These included, Entertainment (see the boxed text, p228) shut off the tides to of land that nestle in the middle of a vast delta
in his early career, landscapes featuring, in- Filmhuis Cinode (%639 79 79; St Jorisweg 76) Serious the area. The reeds, which had been growing through which many of Europes rivers drain.
evitably, the town mascot: sheep. cinema devoted to offbeat and artistic films. wild during the decades since the collapse of As you survey the calm, flat landscape, consider
Jazzpodium (%614 08 15; Grotekerksplein 1; h9pm- the reed markets, began to die, focusing atten- that for centuries the plucky Zeelanders have
Sleeping 3am Wed & Fri-Sun) Modern and improvisational tion on what is one of the largest expanses of been battling the North Sea waters, and not
Hotel choices in Dordrecht are limited. B&Bs jazz and blues. natural space left in the Netherlands. always with success. In fact the region has suf-
might be a better bet ask the tourist office to The park is home to beavers (reintroduced fered two massive waterborne tragedies.
set you up. Stayokay Dordrecht, on the edge Getting There & Away to the Brabant area of the park in 1988) and In 1421 the St Elizabeths Day flood killed
of Biesbosch National Park, is a combined The train station has all the usual services voles, along with scores of birds. Theres an over 100,000, irrevocably altering the land-
youth hostel, camping ground and hotel (see and is right on the main line from Rotter- observation point right near the visitors cen- scape and some say the disposition of the
opposite). dam south to Belgium. Sample fares and tre where you can observe some that have Netherlands and its people.
Hotel Dordrecht (%613 60 11; www.hoteldordrecht schedules: been fenced off in their own little pond. In 1953, yet another flood laid waste
.nl; Achterhakkers 72; s/d from 89.50/119) A pleasant to 2000 lives and 800km of dykes, leaving
option, centrally located, with excellent, spa- Destination Price Duration Frequency Information 500,000 homeless and leading to the Delta
cious rooms that feature four-poster beds with () (min) (per hr) The visitors centre (%630 53 53; www.biesbosch.org; Project, an enormous multidecade construc-
curtains. Some rooms have private balconies. Baanhoekweg 53; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun year-round, 1-5pm tion programme that aims to finally ensure
Theyre nice people, here: theyll even let you Amsterdam 15.10 80 4 Mon May & Jun, 9am-5pm Mon Jul & Aug) is some 7km the security of these lands. It ranks among
use their private golf buggy for free at the Golf Breda 5.10 17 3 east of the Dordrecht train station. There are the worlds greatest engineering feats (see
Club Crayestein. Rotterdam 3.70 15 6 all the usual displays about the parks ecology, boxed text, p228).
 224 Z E E L A N D M i d d e l b u r g www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z E E L A N D M i d d e l b u r g 225

Middelburg is the somnolent historic capi- MIDDELBURG problem. Note that many of the towns sights Zeeuws Museum undergoes its big face-lift.
tal, while the coast along the North Sea is %0118 / pop 47,000 are closed in winter. You should still be able to scale the heights of
lined with beaches beyond the ever-present Pleasant and prosperous Middelburg, Zee- Theres no VVV tourist office, but there is a Lange Jan (2.50), though.
dykes. Many people venture to this place of lands sleepy capital, is a friendly, low-key tourist shop (%67 43 00; www.touristshop.nl; Markt 65C; The Zeeuws Museum (%62 66 55; www.zeeuws
tenuous land and omnipresent water just to settlement. Its not exactly flush with night- h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm Sat), and the museum.nl) is housed in the former monks dor-
see the sheer size of the Delta Projects dykes life, but its a perfect base for exploring the Zeeland Regional Library (%65 40 00; Kousteensedijk mitories, and has some of the best first-hand
and barriers. region. 7; internet per hr 3; h5.30-9pm Mon, 10am-9pm Tue-Fri, accounts and archival information on the
Although Germany destroyed the towns 10am-1.30pm Sat) has net access. The post office 1953 disaster. However, its closed for refur-
Getting There & Away historic centre in 1940, much has been rebuilt (h10am-6pm Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) bishment until spring 2007.
In Zeeland, Middelburg is easily reached by and you can still get a solid feel for what life is at Lange Noordstraat 48.
train, but for most other towns youll need to must have been like hundreds of years ago. For bibliophiles, De Drvkkery (%88 68 86; www TOWN HALL
rely on the many buses. The most important The fortifications built by the Sea Beggars in .de-drvkkery.nl; Markt 51) is one of the countrys best Dominating the Markt, the town hall (%67 54 52;
include bus 104, which makes a marathon 2- 1595 can still be traced in the pattern of the bookshops, drawing customers from as far admission 2.50; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat year-round, noon-
hour journey between Rotterdams Centraal main canals encircling the old town. as Belgium and Germany. It has an excellent 5pm Sun Apr-Oct) grabs the eye. Its staggeringly
Station and Vlissingen and follows the western As the main town of the Walcheren penin- magazine selection, a caf, internet access (3 beautiful, and a pastiche of styles: the Gothic
edge of the province along the Delta Project. It sula, Middelburg is fairly removed from the per hour), art and photography displays on side facing the Markt is from the 1400s; the
runs every 30 minutes in both directions. rest of the Netherlands crowds are seldom a the walls and oodles of books. more-classical portion on Noordstraat dates
from the 1600s.
MIDDELBURG 0
0
400 m
0.2 mi Orientation Inside there are several sumptuous cer-
The train station for Middelburg is a five- emonial rooms that boast treasures such as
A B C D

minute walk from the centre, across two canals. the ubiquitous Belgian tapestries. Visits to
The Markt is the focus of commercial life, but the building are by one-hour guided tours
Middelburgs history is concentrated on the only.
1 INFORMATION Town Hall.........................................9 B3 EATING medieval Abdij (Abbey).
De Drvkkery Bookshop.....................1 B4 Wandelkerk...................................10 C3 De Mug..........................................17 B3 OTHER SIGHTS
Post Office.......................................2 B3 Zeeuws Museum............................11 B3 De Tuin Van Broeder Ludovicus.....18 C3
Tourist Shop.....................................3 B3 Peper & Zout..................................19 B3 Sights & Activities The area around Damplein (east of the Abdij)
Zeeland Regional Library..................4 C4 SLEEPING Zuidwester...................................(see 19) This pretty, airy little town is eminently suit- preserves many 18th-century houses, some of

De Kaepstander..............................12 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Grand Hotel du Commerce............13 C4 ENTERTAINMENT able for walking, with cobblestones and snak- which have recently been turned into interest-
Canal Boats......................................5 B4 Hotel De Nieuwe Doelen...............14 C4 Concert- en Gehoorzaal.................20 C3
Jewish Cemetery..............................6 A3 Hotel Le Beau Rivage.....................15 C4 Jazz Eetcaf Desafinado.................21 C3
ing alleyways leading in and away from the ing shops and cafs.
Koorkerk..........................................7 C3 Hotel Roelant.................................16 C3 Schuttershof...................................22 B3 town square, which hosts a famous market There is a fairly large old Jewish Cemetery on
Nieuwe Kerk.....................................8 B3
on Thursdays. the Walensingel. It has the all-too-common
To Domburg,
N57 Noordsingel stark memorial to the many Middelburg Jews
2 Noor st
d Ve ABDIJ taken away to their deaths by the Nazis.
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Schouwbrug
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This huge abbey complex dates from the 12th

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Seissingel

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16
Start with the Historama (%62 66 55; www.middel canals and guided walking tours of the centre.
n

burgsekerken.nl; adult/child 2.50/1; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat Inquire within.

poortstr
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year-round, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Oct), in the heart of the

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Markt Onder Den e- kaa
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sin it), the 91m tower. Just east is the Koorkerk, De Kaepstander (% 64 28 48; www.kaepstander.nl;
tio

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Ho Ka
l rs - og str Ha 4 dij k ege parts of which date from the 1300s. Just west Koorkerkhof 10; s/d with shared bathroom 38.50/65) This
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To Camping iele
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La Call %61 35 96 to check the opening hours TV room for all guests. Its cosy and peaceful
ae

(3km)
e Vest
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le W
eg and accessibility of the churches. These are but, best of all, its next door to Jazz Eetcaf
ndae
Poele subject to more variation than usual while the Desafinado (see p226).
 226 Z E E L A N D A r o u n d M i d d e l b u r g Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com Z E E L A N D W a t e r l a n d N e e l t j e J a n s 227

Grand Hotel du Commerce (%63 60 51; www dinner Sun & Mon) Latin-tinged, homemade salads and Veere dates from the early 16th century thus, The staff are experts at ferreting out accom-
.fletcher.nl; Loskade 1; s/d from 61/71) In a building that pastas plus organic wines. its an atmospheric place to stroll around. modation.
would look at home on the Cannes beachfront, The tourist office (%09002020280; Oudestraat 28; For information on a 35km bicycle route,
this hotel has gaudy red awnings juxtaposed Entertainment h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 1.30-4.30pm Sep-Jun) is the Mantelingen, which begins and ends at
against whitewashed, sun-bleached walls; its Jazz Eetcaf Desafinado (%64 07 67; www.desafinado in a small building near the Grote Kerk. Staff Domburg, see p72.
all a bit more faded than the brochures sug- .nl; Koorkerkstraat 1; mains 13-20; hlunch & dinner) It can advise on boat rentals and bike routes.
gest, though. Still, the light-filled rooms are does exactly what it says on the tin: serves up SLEEPING & EATING
fine, the staff are attentive and the place has steaming portions of hot jazz in wood-bound SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES The tourist office has myriad additional ac-
all the conveniences. As with all hotels on this surroundings, with authentic jazz and blues Here, youll feel like youre in a Vermeer paint- commodation options.
road, the front rooms are noisiest. on the stereo, old-time vinyl adorning the ing: rich Gothic houses abound, a testament to Camping Hof Domburg (%58 82 00; [email protected];
Hotel Roelant (%62 76 59; www.familiehotelroelant walls, and live jazz on Wednesday nights. the wealth brought in by the wool trade with Schelpweg 7; camp sites from 10; hyear-round) Located
.nl; Koepoortstraat 10; d from 85) Dating from 1530, The foods not too bad, although watch out the Scots, and at the waterfront, the Campveerse west of the centre; sites accommodating up
this building has basic, comfortable rooms for those little snail thingies they serve up Toren was part of the old fortifications. Look to five people.
with bathroom. Its a small, family-run estab- as nibbles. for the indications on the side showing the Stayokay Domburg (%58 12 54; www.stayokay
lishment, a pleasant walk away from the centre Concert- en Gehoorzaal (%61 27 00; Singelstraat 13) levels of various floods. .com/domburg; Duinvlietweg 8; dm from 22.25; hApr-Oct)
on a beautiful old cobbled street. Theres a This old concert hall, with a plush interior, The town hall on the Markt dates from 1474 A hostel notable for its location in a real castle,
nice garden and an excellent restaurant. hosts frequent performances of chamber and but was mostly completed in 1599. Its tower is complete with moat, 2km east of Domburg and
Hotel De Nieuwe Doelen (%61 21 21; www.hotelde other classical music. still stuffed with bells 48 at last count. 1km from the beach. Reserve in advance, as the
nieuwedoelen.nl; Loskade 3-7; s/d from 70/90) This is an Schuttershof (%61 34 82; www.schuttershoftheater.nl; At the south end of town is the 16th-century beach is very popular. Bus 53 from Middelburg
older-style hotel with simple, colourful rooms Schuttershofstraat 1) The Schuttershof is a cinema Grote Kerk, another edifice that never matched stops along the N287 near the entrance.
(with private facilities) that are pleasingly that sometimes has live music. its designers intentions its stump of a steeple
decorated, plus the added bonus of lovely (42m) looms ominously. GETTING THERE & AWAY
staff. Theres an enclosed garden, perfect for Getting There & Around Bus 52 and 53 link Domburg to Middelburg
breakfast in fine weather. Middelburg is near the end of the train line in SLEEPING & EATING every hour (every two hours on Sunday). Bus
Other options: Zeeland, and the attractive but austere station Hotel de Campveerse Toren (%50 12 91; www.camp 53 continues south along the beaches.
Camping Middelburg (%62 53 95; www.camping has that end-of-line feel. Services are limited: veersetoren.nl; Kade 2; d from 116) A smart place
middelburg.nl; Koninginnelaan 55; camp site per car from theres a very small newsstand and the lockers in a historic, castle-shaped building right WATERLAND NEELTJE JANS
3) Three kilometres from the train station take bus 56 are hidden away in the bicycle shop. Sample on the waterfront. It offers really comfort- Travelling the N57, you cant help but notice
or 58 and tell the driver where you want to get off. fares and schedules: able rooms and particularly fabulous views. the many massive developments of the Delta
Hotel Le Beau Rivage (%63 80 60; Loskade 19; s/d Occupancy rises with the thermometer, as Project: a succession of huge dykes and dams,
from 75/105) Large, quiet rooms some with sofas. Its Destination Price Duration Frequency do prices. designed to avoid a repeat of the many floods.
the furthest place away from traffic on this road. () (min) (per hr) Hotel t Waepen van Veere (%50 12 31; www Possibly the most impressive stretch is between
.waepenvanveere.nl; Markt 23-27; d from 75) Veeres Noord Beveland and Schouwen-Duiveland, to
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

Eating Amsterdam 26.30 150 1 other hotel is on the central square, and its the north. The long causeway built atop the
Peper & Zout (Pepper & Salt; %62 70 58; www.peperen Roosendaal 10.40 45 2 a small place, with just 11 rooms although massive movable inlets is designed to allow
zout.com; Lange Noordstraat 8; mains 12-19; hlunch & Rotterdam 17.50 60 1 all of them are excellent. It also has an elegant the sea tides in and out of the Oosterschelde.
dinner) Peper & Zout has a casual yet elegant restaurant (mains 16 to 26). This storm-surge barrier, over 3km long and
interior. The menu concentrates on fresh sea- Regional buses, including the 104, stop along spanning three inlets and two artificial islands,
food, mainly various kinds of local fish. Its a Kanaalweg in front of the train station. GETTING THERE & AWAY took 10 years to build, beginning in 1976.
popular place with a great wine list. The bicycle shop is to the left as you leave Veere is an easy bike ride from Middelburg At about the midway point (Haringsvliet),
De Mug (The Mosquito; %61 48 51; www.demug.nl; the station. A charming cycle route runs along (6km). Otherwise, bus 53 makes the 12- the Waterland Neeltje Jans (%111-655 655; www
Vlasmarkt 54-56; mains 16-21; hdinner Tue-Sat) Dont the coastal dykes (see p72). minute run every hour (every two hours on .neeltjejans.nl; winter/summer 11/16; h10am-5pm),
be fooled by the Heineken signs; the beer list is Sunday). located by the main surge barrier, is a terrific
long and boasts many rare Trappist varieties. AROUND MIDDELBURG complex that explains the project in minute
Also try the Mug Bitter, heavy on the hops. In The Walcheren peninsula is a very enjoyable Domburg detail, with working models, and hilarious
the kitchen, De Mug has quite a reputation for place for bicycling: combine journeys to old %0118 / pop 1251 public-service films from the 70s (complete
its trademark dishes prepared with unusual towns with time at the beach. Although Domburg is a fairly low-key seaside with bad hair and funky soundtracks). Theres
beers. The accommodation (rooms from 30) town by Dutch standards, in summer its jam- also an exhilarating boat trip that takes you
is clean and comforting. Veere packed. However, its the beach thats the main out onto the Oosterschelde for a panoramic
Other options: %0118 / pop 1520 event. To escape the urban crowds, head south view of the barriers and beyond.
De Tuin Van Broeder Ludovicus (%62 60 11; Lange Veere is a former fishing village that found a along the tall dunes. Keep going past the golf Several floors deal with the effects of the
Delft 2A) A health-food store with an organic bakery, new industry tourism when its access to course for a good 4km. floods and show how the entire massive project
cheese case and more. the sea on the Veerse Meer (Veere Lake) was The tourist office (%58 13 42; www.vvvwnb.nl; was built. You can also visit one of the nearby
Zuidwester (%65 00 40; www.zuidwester.info; Lange closed as part of the Delta Project. The town Schuitvlotstraat 32; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun) complex pylons of the storm-surge barrier and
Noordstraat 6; mains 10-15; hlunch & dinner Wed-Sat, now boasts a busy yacht harbour. Much of is near the entrance to town on Roosjesweg. see how the huge movable gate works.
 Lonely Planet Publications
228 Z E E L A N D S c h o u w e n - D u i v e l a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z E E L A N D Ze e u w s - V l a a n d e re n 229

century wooden tower topped with a statue Bus 133 from Rotterdam via Zierikzee and
THE DELTA PROJECT of Neptune. Bus 134 from Zierikzee both stop right at
Begun in 1958, the Delta Project consumed billions of guilders, millions of labour hours and At Oude Haven, at the east end of town, the the sand dunes. Both run every 30 minutes.
untold volumes of concrete and rock before it was completed in 1996. The goal was to avoid a Noordhavenpoort and the Zuidhavenpoort are old Bus 104, the VlissingenRotterdam bus, stops
repeat of the catastrophic floods of 1953, when a huge storm surge rushed up the Delta estuar- city gates from the 16th and 14th centuries about 2km from Westerschouwen in Burgh-
ies of Zeeland and broke through inland dykes. This caused a serial failure of dykes throughout respectively. Haamstede.
the region, and much of the province was flooded.
The original idea was to block up the estuaries and create one vast freshwater network. But GETTING THERE & AWAY ZEEUWS-VLAANDEREN
by the 1960s this kind of sweeping transformation was unacceptable to the Dutch public, now The bus stop is north of the centre, a five- Running along the Belgian border south of
more environmentally aware. So the Oosterschelde was left open to the sea tides, and 3km of minute walk across the canal along Grachtweg. the Westerschelde, Zeeuws-Vlaanderen is an
movable barriers were constructed that could be lowered ahead of a possible storm surge. This Bus 132 makes the 30-minute run to Goes at unremarkable place with numerous farms and
barrier, between Noord Beveland and Schouwen-Duiveland, is the most dramatic part of the least every 30 minutes. Bus 133 runs to Rotter- a few chemical plants.
Delta Project and the focus of the Waterland Neeltje Jans, which details the enormous efforts dams Zuidplein metro station (the 75-minute The many small villages, such as IJzendijk,
to complete the barrier. ride leaves at least every hour). all have their holy trinity of the Dutch coun-
The project raised and strengthened the regions dykes and added a movable barrier at Rot- try skyline: a church steeple, a town hall tower
terdam harbour, the last part to be completed. Public opinion later shifted, but large areas of Westerschouwen and a windmill.
water had already been dammed and made into freshwater lakes. At Veerse Meer (p226) the %0111 / pop 18,000 No part of Zeeuws-Vlaanderen is joined to
fishing industry has vanished and been replaced by holidaymakers and sailboats. Sheltered by tall dunes, this small town at the the rest of the Netherlands by land. Instead,
The impact of the Delta Project is still being felt. At Biesbosch National Park (p223), the west end of Schouwen-Duiveland adjoins a there are two ferry connections. The Vlissingen
reduction of tides is killing reeds that have grown for centuries. But those who recall the 1953 vast park set among the sands and woods. Breskens ferry is a link for the Belgian chan-
floods will trade some reeds for their farms any day. There are hiking and biking trails for outdoors nel ferry ports.
Theres an ironic and ever-tragic twist to all this. After the 1953 floods, Dutch offi- enthusiasts, and, although busy in summer, Foot passengers can travel from Brugge in
cials travelled to Louisiana on a fact-finding mission to learn from the levees installed along you can easily find solitude in some of the Belgium by bus 2 to Breskens (75 minutes,
the Mississippi River. Applying this knowledge directly fed into the actual mechanics of the more remote parts of the park. hourly). From the port in Vlissingen, catch a
Delta project. The tourist office (%65 15 13; Noordstraat 45A; bus or ferry to points beyond.
Fast forward to 2005, and the aftermath of the Hurricane Katrina disaster: this time, Louisiana h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), in the neigh- The other ferry route, Perkpolder to Krui-
officials travelled to Zeeland to learn from the Delta Project, similarly in the hope of preventing bouring town of Burgh-Haamstede, can help ningen on Zuid-Beveland, is primarily useful
future catastrophes from ever happening again. you with camping, private rooms and hotel to local motorists. The ferry (6 per car) runs
accommodation. every 30 minutes in both directions.

The level of tidal control is truly astound- things took a turn for the worse in 1576 when
ing. Operators are able to balance the mix of a bunch of Spaniards waded over from the
fresh water draining out into the sea against mainland at low tide and captured the town,
ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

ZUID HOLLAND & ZEELAND

the tidal influx of sea water to such an extent precipitating a long economic decline.
that they can affect the rate of corrosion on The tourist office (%41 24 50; www.vvvschouwen
the hulls of container-ships moored in Rot- duiveland.nl; Meelstraat 4; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round,
terdam. This seemingly innocuous feat has 10am-1pm Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-3pm Sat May-Sep) can sup-
saved shipping firms millions of dollars in ply you with a list of local rooms for over-
maintenance and repair costs since the sluice night stays; the post office (%41 55 55; Poststraat
operations started. 39; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) offers the
Bus 104 stops at the Expo on its run be- usual services, and the library (%41 45 48; Har-
tween Rotterdams Spijkenisse metro station ingvlietplein 2; internet per hr 3; h2-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri,
(25 minutes from Rotterdam CS) and Vliss- 9.30am-noon Wed & Sat) has internet access.
ingen. The buses take about an hour from
Rotterdam and 30 minutes from Middelburg SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
and run every 30 minutes. The Maritiem Museum (%45 44 64; Mol 25; combined
ticket with town hall adult/child 4/2; h10am-5pm Mon-
SCHOUWEN-DUIVELAND Sat, noon-5pm Sun) is just off Havenpark. It is
The middle finger of the Delta, Schouwen- in the s-Gravensteen, a sturdy 16th-century
Duiveland, is a compact island of dunes. prison that still has its bars. Besides the dis- Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
plays on local seafaring, theres a fine garden restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Zierikzee out the back.
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
%0111 / pop 10,313 The town hall (%45 44 64; Meelstraat 6-8; combined
Zierikzee grew wealthy in the 14th century ticket with Maritiem Museum adult/child 4/2; h10am- everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
from trade with the Hanseatic League, but 5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) has a unique 16th- the above - Do the right thing with our content.
 Lonely Planet Publications
230 www.lonelyplanet.com F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) H i s t o r y 231

0 20 km
FRIESLAND
Friesland (Frysln)
0 12 miles

NORTH
SEA

Schiermonnikoog
For some, Friesland (Frysln in Frisian) is the crowning glory of the Netherlands. Covering Schiermonnikoog Schiermonnikoog
Ameland National Park
the countrys northwestern corner, it has much that attracts visitors to this tiny nation Nes
Terschelling Hollum
sandy beaches, flat, green open spaces, water sports galore, and a town or two with a rich
Hoorn Lauwersoog
Oosterend
historical past. Holwerd N358
West Terschelling Hogebeintum
Ferwerd GRONINGEN
If this is all youre here to see, then enjoy. But this kind of attitude is only selling Friesland, Dokkum

and the Frisians, short. Scratch the surface and youll soon discover that the locals, and the Oost Vlieland N357
N356
Vlieland N393
landscape, differ subtly from the rest of the country. For starters, theres the language: its N355
Buitenpost
N361 To Groningen
closer to Old English than Dutch, but youll struggle to understand a word. Then theres Leeuwarden N355 na
al (4km)
etka

i
the strong sense of self-reliance: even by Dutch standards, the Frisians are an independent, A31

gr
r
Franeker Ma
N358
stoic bunch. The land itself is also a curious anomaly: they didnt just have to build dykes

e
Harlingen N31

ze
en
FRIESLAND
to protect their land, they had to build the land itself. North Friesland segues into the Wad-

d
N359 N384

d
a
Drachten
denzee so subtly that, aeons ago, it was hard to tell whether you were plodding through

W
A7 Grou
Bolsward N354 E22
watery mud or muddy water. Texel Makkum E22 N392
Sneek
Far and away the biggest drawcard of Friesland is its four islands. These long slivers of Afsluitdijk IJlst
A7 N380
A7 Workum
sand and soil attract thousands by the boatload, drawn by the chance to find a pocket of Heerenveen

N354 N381
To Den
E22
Hindeloopen
island bliss away from the crowded mainland. Vlieland offers a semblance of civilisation and Helder
(10km)
acres of remote sand dunes, while its neighbour Terschelling is by far the most developed, Stavoren Sloten Wolvega To
Groningen
and yet still manages to pack in kilometres of lonely cycle and walking paths. Ameland is A32 (40km)

a hybrid of the two, and Schiermonnikoog stands aloof, its serene ambience intact even in NOORD
IJ
N371
HOLLAND Steenwijk
ss A6
the height of tourist season. el Weerribben
m National Park
ee
r
N375
To Hoorn (8km); Giethoorn
Amsterdam To Amsterdam To Zwolle
(48km) Enkhuizen (80km) (18km) Meppel A28

History themselves sitting beside a lake. The province

HIGHLIGHTS Having dredged their home out of the Wad- has, however, recently reinvented itself and
Schiermonnikoog
Explore the enthralling museums and quiet Ameland denzee armload by armload, the Frisians are is currently enjoying a revival as a domestic
back streets of Leeuwarden (p232) Terschelling no strangers to struggling with their natural holiday destination.
environment.
Take to the water around Sneek (p235)
Farming, fishing and nautical know-how Language
whether it be fresh, salty, in it, or on it
Vlieland (the building, repair and maintenance of Frisians speak Frisian, which is actually closer
Leeuwarden
Kick back in Hindeloopen (p237), a coastal ships) have been the areas principal activi- (in some ways) to German and Old English
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
town where you cant help but relax ties for centuries, and in the prerepublic era than Dutch; theres an old saying that goes As
Combine a cycling trip through sand dunes made Friesland one of the wealthiest regions milk is to cheese, are English and Frise. The
Sneek
and farmland on Terschelling (p240) and in the Netherlands. The Frisians became majority of Frisians are, however, perfectly
Ameland (p241) integrated further into Dutch society not conversant in mainstream Dutch.
Hindeloopen entirely willingly in 1932 when the Afsluit- Most people who have lived in the region
Find your little piece of island solitude on
dijk (Barrier Dyke; p175) opened, closing for a significant time will speak some Frisian,
Vlieland (p239) and Schiermonnikoog
the Zuiderzee. This provided better links to although youre more likely to hear Frisian
(p242)
Amsterdam and the south but was devastating coming from the mouths of older residents
for small fishing villages, who suddenly found than younger peoples. Dont worry if you
 232 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) Le e u w a r d e n ( L j o u w e r t ) www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) Le e u w a r d e n ( L j o u w e r t ) 233

cant make head nor tail of it even the Dutch LEEUWARDEN (LJOUWERT ) Tue & Fri, 10am-5.30pm Wed, 10am-1pm Sat) Overlooks a museumfryslan.nl; Schoenmakersperk 2; adult/child 5/4;
have difficulty deciphering Frisian. Youll usu- %058 / pop 90,500 canal and has a string of internet terminals. h11am-5pm Tue-Sun), Leeuwardens revamped
ally see written examples, such as street signs. Most tourists to Friesland head directly for the Post office (%213 09 98; Oldehoofsterkerkhof 4; childrens museum. This well-planned, in-
You might, for example, see the word Snits, islands, but the majority pass through Leeuw- h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-1.30pm Sat) teractive museum is an engaging experience
which is the Frisian version of Sneek, the arden, the provinces capital. Therefore many Tourist office (%234 75 50; www.vvvleeuwarden.nl; for all ages, concentrating on Frieslands flora
regions second city. see the city only as a transit point, which is a Sophialaan 4; hnoon-5.30pm Mon, 9.30am-5.30pm and fauna. Highlights include spooky Cap-
A ruling in 2002 officially altered the spell- pity, as this laid-back, pretty town is worth an Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) Stocks loads of information on the tain Severeins collection of curiosities and a
ing of the provinces name from the Dutch overnight stop, if only to explore its superb province, has free internet access, and books accommoda- virtual bird-flight simulation (strap yourself
Friesland to Frysln, the local version of trinity of museums. A night here will also allow tion for 1.75 per person. into the hang-glider harness and away you
the name. time to wander its peaceful old streets, and Van der Velde (%213 23 60; Nieuwestad NZ 57) go), but nothing tops the basement; here you
sample some northern hospitality, something Bookshop with a smallish but decent selection of English- can take in an underwater lake-scene from a
Getting There & Around easily found in its welcoming bars and clubs. language and travel books. fishs perspective, complete with duck bums,
The capital, Leeuwarden, is easily reached boat bottoms and cow snouts.
by train from the south, from where trains Orientation Sights The museums caf, which occupies the
can be caught to the coastal towns of the The old town is compact and easily traversed Most of Leeuwardens sights are concentrated inner courtyard, is topped by a glass roof, mak-
southwest, the port of Harlingen in the west, on foot. Much of the commercial life is on or within a leisurely 10-minute walk of Nieuwe- ing it lovely and warm even on a cold day.
and Groningen in the east. The rest of the near the network of canals that wind through stad, predominantly on the northern side
province requires more patience, but can be the centre. (Nieuwestad NZ) of the water. OTHER ATTRACTIONS
reached by bus; day passes (12.80), avail- Just past the west end of Bagijnestraat, the off-
able on buses, cover the entire region, and Information FRIES MUSEUM balance Oldehove dominates its unfortunate

after 9am Monday to Friday and all weekend, Leeuwarden is dotted with ATMs; for those This museum (%255 55 00; www.friesmuseum.nl; Turf- spot on the Oldehoofsterkerkhof parking lot.
journeys only cost 1. Cycle paths crisscross arriving by train and needing cash, theres markt 11; adult/child 5/2; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun), Leeuw- Things went wrong shortly after the tower
Friesland. a couple located to the right as you exit the ardens biggest, is wonderful and concentrates was started in 1529 and it started to lean se-
By car is also a good way to explore the station. on the history of Friesland from the time when verely when it was only 40m high. While by
entire province; the quickest route from Am- Library (%234 77 77; Wirdumerdijk 34; internet per hr locals began the necessary task of mud-stack- no means a Leaning Tower of Pisa, it must
sterdam is over the Afsluitdijk. 2; h12.30-5.30pm Mon & Thu, 10am-1pm & 5.30-9pm ing. Spread over two historic buildings, the still be quite worrying for the neighbours. It
Kanselarij, a 16th-century courthouse, and the was closed at the time of writing due to the

LEEUWARDEN 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Eysinghaus, a mansion from the late 1700s, its parking lot overhaul; check with the tourist
Hoekster a place to spend a couple of hours. office for opening times.
A B C Poortsbrug D The huge collection of silver items long The petite Waag dominates Waagplein,
nd
re

INFORMATION Noorderweg a local speciality is spectacular, as are the and is now surrounded by stores. It was the
ste

Noorder
ek

ATMs..................................1 C3 Brug
19th-century period pieces. There is also a weigh-house for butter and other goods from
Ho
alstr

Library.................................2 C3
Ho
laan

ht

Post Office...........................3 B2 section on the efforts by locals to resist the 1598 to 1884.
e
Nachtega

ks

1 g
ac

we
Spanjaards

ter

Amelands
sgr

Tourist Office.......................4 B3 ne
Z

Nieuweb
oe Nazis, a sorrowful examination of the life of
pa

Dwinger
reek O
d

Prinsentuin uren
Van der Velde.....................5 C2 Gr
Sta

Sleeping
ge

Noo r d e r Mata Hari (see the boxed text, p234), a kids

Voor stWZ

Harlinge
n

rstraatw
rsi

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES eg 8 Levissonstr

te
ek

Perk
s
corner to balance things up, and temporary Leeuwarden isnt swamped with accommoda-
os

Fries Museum......................6 D2 Noorderplantage

lde r stre
Harlingel

Sint Waltje
O

Tu To De Kleine
Mata Hari Statue.................7 C2 Tu inen
Sin

Anthonystr Wielen (6km) exhibitions of young contemporary artists tion options, but theres variety enough to suit
Ke Voo

oek ine NZ
rs

Natuurmuseum Frysln........8 C1 Boterh 10 nZ

ger

13
e

20 6
Beijerstr

str Z
from across Europe. everyones tastes. For B&Bs at around 20 per
Ooster St Nieuwekad

Oldehove.............................9 B2 9 Kerk Eewal Noord Vliet

Grote
Engelsestr

de

Princessehof Museum........10 B2
Theater 14 Vlietsterbrug
person, try the tourist office.
er

Waag................................11 C2 3 Bag 19 18
adsgr
Ov
Sint Ja

Vrouwenpoortsbrug ijne Romein 17

str 15 PRINCESSEHOF MUSEUM Stadhouderlijk Hof (%216 21 80; www.stadhouder
kt

21
htswal

7
r

5 16
sma

SLEEPING
Pottery lovers will adore the Princessehof Mu-
co

Eden Oranje Hotel.............12 C3 Nie 25 lijkhof.nl; Hofplein 29; r 105-285; a) The plain faade
bsstr

Berlikumer Markt

uw 24
Grac
eba

2 Vossepark est
Hotel 't Anker....................13 C2
Nieu d NZ
a seum (%294 89 58; www.princessehof.nl; Grote Kerkstraat of the Stadhouderlijk belies the plush interior
Twe

Stadhouderlijk Hof.............14 C2 wes 11 Oosterbrug

Fonteinstr tad
ZZ Waag
pl 11; adult/child 6/3; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun), the official of this one-time royal home. Inside, the red-
Weaze

Keizersgr
EATING
De Lachende Koe...............15 C2 22
23
Ruiterskwartier museum for ceramics in the Netherlands. carpeted stairwells lead to basic rooms, which
tr

Emmakade NZ Here youll find the largest collection of tiles have a semblance of elegance, and sumptuous
Vondels

Humphrey's Deli & Diner...16 C2 Zaaila Wilhelminapl Huizumsebrug

n aal
Quizin!..............................17 D2
d Het Nieuwe Kan
de ZZ
Emmaka on the planet, an unparalleled selection of suites, where those with a decadent streak can
ingel

Spijs Lokaal........................ 18 C2 Zuider grachtswal
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
Tesselsc 2
delftware, and works from around the globe satisfy their needs.
ers

hadest
Spinoza's........................... Willemskade
r 19 C2 NZ Wirdumerdijk
West

Zuider Stadsgrac
DRINKING Verlaatsbrug
Wi
llemskade ZZ
ht Nieuwe Weg ENTERTAINMENT its Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese sections Hotel t Anker (%212 52 16; www.hotelhetanker.nl;
4 Club Noa...........................21 B2
Cafe De Toeter..................20 C2
Ha Lange Marktstr De Harmonie......................22 B2 are world class. Temporary exhibitions also Eewal 73; s/d from 26/60) This simple hotel is a
rlingervaart
Coltrane's........................(see 19)
Stationspl
12
goweg
Het Filmhuis.......................23 C2 come and go on a regular basis. fine bet for those just looking for a bed and
3 weg Ooster Purple Lounge Club...........24 D2
Snekertrekweg Stations 1 a clean room to rest their tired tourist bones.
eg Zui der singel 26
Repelsteeltje....................(see 19)
allw
Marsh 27 Tivoli.................................25 C2 NATUURMUSEUM FRYSLN Its surprisingly quiet as well, considering the
train
station TRANSPORT De P
ot
Even the most brow-beaten parent should ground floor contains a lively bar, and a string
Bicycle Shop.......................m26argC3
rn sterstr Bus Station.........................27 B3
e let their lovely angels run rampant in the of restaurants and bars are only a quick stroll
Wijnho
Natuurmuseum Frysln (%233 22 44; www.natuur down the street.
 234 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) Le e u w a r d e n ( L j o u w e r t ) Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) A r o u n d Le e u w a r d e n 235

warm welcome, bubbly vibe, chatty locals Buses are to the left as you exit the train sta-
MATA HARI and a bartender who knows the meaning of tion, and a bicycle shop (%213 98 00) is to the
Had she been born a few decades later, Leeuwardens own Gertrud Margarete Zelle probably good service. right. The latter stays open as late as 2am over
would have been given a TV chat show. Instead, the irrepressible Margarete ended up a martyr Coltranes (Eewal 50-52; hWed-Sun) Below Spino- the summer months.
to salacious legend. zas, this is a perfect bar to end the evening in;
Margarete was born in 1876. Her wealthy family fell apart in her teens, so she married and cavelike, with grungy corners, friendly staff, AROUND LEEUWARDEN
moved to Indonesia. By 1902 the marriage was on the rocks and they were back in Leeuwarden. progressive tunes, and a 25-to-35 crowd. The N357, which connects Leeuwarden with
She left her husband and child and moved to Paris, where she changed her name to Mata Hari (Ma- the Ameland ferry port at Holwerd, 23km
laysian for sun) and began a career as a dancer, achieving fame with her erotic, naked act. Entertainment north, passes some of the oldest settled parts
Her affairs and dalliances were legendary. She favoured rich men in uniform, and when WWI A concentration of bars, clubs and coffee- of Friesland an excellent route for driving
broke out she had high-ranking lovers on both sides. Things inevitably became tricky; French shops can be found around Doelesteeg, Kleine or riding.
officers persuaded her to spy on her German lovers, and German officers managed to do the Hoogstraat and Grote Hoogstraat. Thursday At Ferwerd, 6km southwest of Holwerd,
same. This web of intrigue was not helped by her keen imagination, and mistrust began to rise night is students night where many places watch for a road northeast to Hogebeintum,
from both sides. offer 10 beers for 10; proving your status as a which is 3km off the N357. Youll soon see the
In 1917, at age 40, she was arrested by the French for spying. There was a dubious trial, during student doesnt seem a prerequisite to receive highest terp (mud mound) in Friesland with
which none of her former pals offered any assistance probably out of embarrassment and such a deal though. a lovely old church perched on top. There are
later that year she was sentenced to death and shot. Repelsteeltje (Grote Hoogstraat 44) If ever there some good displays explaining the ongoing
Fortunately Margarete/Mata Hari is still in a manner of speaking alive and well in Leeu- was a coffeeshop to calm the fears of those archaeological digs.
warden. Her statue as a sultry dancer can be found on a bridge over the canal close to her tempted to try pot for the first time, this is
birthplace at Over de Kelders 33, and the Fries Museum has a large and detailed exhibit on her it. Next door to Spinozas and covering three SNEEK (SNITS)
life. The residence where Margarete spent much of her childhood, Grote Kerkstraat 212, currently floors of a lovely corner house, Repelsteeltje %0515 / pop 32,900
lies empty awaiting its next incarnation. has the look and feel of a normal coffee house, All Frisians know how to sail, and all Frisians
a chatty owner, regular DJs and a distinct know how to fish, so the saying goes. This is
absence of paranoia. certainly true of the residents of Sneek, but
De Kleine Wielen (%0511-43 16 60; De Groene Ster prepared with care by chefs who enjoy a quick De Harmonie (%233 02 33; www.harmonie.nl; Ruiter- then again, they have no choice in the mat-
14; camp site 10.50) Centred on a small lake some chat with their customers. skwartier 4) De Harmonie satisfies Leeuwardens ter; the IJsselmeer is close at hand, as are an
6km east of the city off the N355, De Kleine Spijs Lokaal (%216 22 14; Eewal 54; mains 15-20; desire for highbrow entertainment by hosting abundance of canals and rivers, and the town
Wielen is a pleasant, green camping ground hdinner Mon-Sat) Its easy to see Spijs has noth- an array of theatre performances, both main- is the gateway to the Frisian Lakes. If youre
suitable for families and nature lovers. Bus 10 ing to hide; its chefs are on full view from the stream and fringe. seriously interested in improving your sailing
and 51 pass close to the camp; ask the driver street, busily preparing what some class as Tivoli (%212 38 87; Nieuwestad NZ 85) unspools technique, there are generations of expertise
to let you off at De Skieppepoel, from where the finest food in Leeuwarden. The modern an interesting line-up of art-house and fes- concentrated around here.
its a five-minute walk south. European fare on the ever-changing menu is tival films, as does Het Filmhuis (%212 50 60;
Eden Oranje Hotel (%212 62 41; infooranjehotel@ed often so popular that reservations are highly Ruiterskwartier 6). Information
enhotelgroup.nl; Stationsweg 4; r 55-125; a) Directly recommended. Clubs worth checking out for a nights Library (%42 30 23; Wijde Noorderhorne 1; internet
opposite the train station, this business hotel De Lachende Koe (Laughing Cow; %215 82 45; Groote frivolity: per hr 2; h1.30-8pm Mon & Thu, 10.30am-8pm Tue,
has grand common spaces and comfy, highly Hoogstraat 16; mains 10-14; hdinner Tue-Sun) Covering Purple Lounge Club (%216 01 20; www.purplelc.nl; 10.30am-5.30pm Wed & Fri, 10.30am-1pm Sat) Has
functional rooms with a smidgen of charm. the ground floor of three connecting houses, Tweebaksmarkt 49) Club-restaurant with a very purple, very internet access.
Book early to receive substantial discounts. The Laughing Cow is an enormous place that eclectic dcor, DJs, live bands and a healthy local following. Main post office (Martiniplein 15A) In the heart of town.
amazingly fills up with ease. The atmosphere is Club Noa (www.club-noa.nl; Nieuwstad NZ 63-65) Big, Tourist office (%41 40 96; www.vvvsneek.nl; Markt-
Eating more pub- than restaurant-like, but everyone bold, brash club attracting pretty young things with its straat 18; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat) Has
oSpinozas (%212 93 93; Eewal 50-52; mains 10- seems to enjoy the hefty servings from the sexy red interior, Saturday Night Fever dance floor and long lists of boat rental and charter firms, sailing schools
17; hlunch & dinner) This large eatery attracts all meat-heavy menu, although were not sure thumping music. and more, and shares its office with the ANWB.
walks of life with its hearty dishes, convivial many cows find this particularly amusing.
atmosphere, and one thing the Dutch love Humphreys Deli & Diner (%216 49 63; Nieuwestad Getting There & Around Sights & Activities
above all dim lighting. The menu features NZ 60; mains from 10; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) A chain Leeuwarden is at the end of the main train You wont find many conventional sights here
regional specialities (stews are a particular restaurant with a surprising amount of charm, line from the south; its also the hub for local in Sneek, given its overwhelming bias towards
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
favourite), plenty of vegetarian options, and a small library, filling meals, and all manner of services in Friesland. Lockers can be found on the water. The Waterpoort dates from 1613 and
a kids section. The private courtyard is an sauces, jams and pickles for purchase. platform eight. Fares and schedules: is the former gateway to the old port. Its twin
oasis over summer. towers are local landmarks. Across from the
Quizin! (%216 76 70; Over de Kelders 24; mains 13- Drinking Destination Price Duration Frequency tourist office, the town hall (Marktstraat 15) is an
20; hdinner Tue-Sat) With its warm browns and For such a small city, Leeuwarden has an () (min) (per hr) excellent example of the breed. The towns
reds, attentive staff, and relaxed (but not laid- excellent selection of drinking establishments. best museum, the Fries Scheepvaart Museum
back) air, Quizin! is a fine place to enjoy an Two with more energy than most are: Amsterdam 25.70 160 2 (%41 40 57; Kleinzand 14; adult/child 3/1; h10am-5pm
evening meal. Dishes, which loosely fall under Caf De Toeter (%215 79 76; Kleine Hoogstraat 2) Groningen 8.30 50 2 Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), is a maritime museum
the modern European cuisine moniker, are A fine place to start the evening; expect a Utrecht 23.50 145 2 focusing on local seafaring life.
 236 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) H a r l i n g e n ( H a r n s ) Book accommodation
w w online
w . l o nate llonelyplanet.com
yplanet.com Book
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. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
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Sleeping & Eating is the base for ferries to Terschelling and

The tourist office has lists of local rooms from Vlieland. ATYPICAL ACCOMMODATION
around 20 to 25 per person. Harlingen has also managed to retain a For such a small town, Harlingen has some surprisingly unusual places to spend the night.
De Domp Camping (%41 25 59; www.dedomp.nl; semblance of its architectural history; much The Havenkraan van Harlingen (Haven; r 299), a crane turned hotel, is the easiest to book. Its
Domp 4; camp site 12.50) This lush camp site is of the attractive centre is a preserved zone of one room is well above average and the sunset views from the small lounge will melt the hardest
about a 20-minute walk from town; follow pretty 16th- and 18th-century buildings. heart. Best of all, though, the crane still functions; you can turn it in any direction you wish.
the signs for the zwembad (public swimming A little harder to tricky to swing (with a few-months-long waiting list) is the Reddingsboot
pool). Its very well organised and there are Information Harlingen (Noorderhaven; r 229). This former life boat thats still good to go offers plush (albeit
some sites for hikers that are well away from Several banks with ATMs can be found on small) rooms with stunning extras such as a classic wooden bathtub. Its also possible to push
the vehicles. Voorstraat, Harlingens main street. the boat out, literally the owners can organise trips romantic and otherwise.
De Wijnberg (%41 24 21; Marktstraat 23; s/d 54/74) Post office (Grote Bredeplaats 6) Two hundred metres The most sought-after accommodation of all is the Vuurtoren van Harlingen (Havenweg 1; r
Directly opposite the tourist office is this from the ferry terminal. 279). This, Harlingens former lighthouse, has one stunning room with all manner of luxuries
standard hotel, with basic rooms that are Tourist office (%09005400001; www.vvv-harlingen.nl; and nonpareil views, and fortunately the light no longer works. The catch is a two-year
spartan and clean, and more expensive varie- Noorderhaven 50; h1-5pm Mon, 10am-noon & 1-5pm waiting list.
ties with bathtub. The restaurant-pub on the Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat May-Oct, 10am-noon & 1-5pm For more information on all three, check the website www.vuurtoren-harlingen.nl. Bookings
ground floor is often lively and convivial. Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Nov-Apr) Offers brochures on the can be made through the Workum tourist office (%0515-54 05 50; [email protected]; Noard 5).
Cafe De Draai (%42 28 66; Wijde Noorderhorne 13; town and its surrounds, and will book accommodation.
mains 10; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat). Sneek isnt
wallowing in fine restaurants, but there are a Sights & Activities are in great order, and some have views of the have been a somebody in the astronomical
few spots along Wijde Noorderhorne which Harlingen is best enjoyed on foot. Stroll along towns harbour, while the downstairs caf-bar world. Beginning in 1774, he built the planet-
will do, including this cheap and cheerful caf, the canals, especially Noorderhaven, with its is comfortable and atmospheric and comes arium himself to show how the heavens actu-
which has a relaxed vibe, a barrel-load of beer many yachts, and Zuiderhaven. with a warm winter garden. ally worked. Its startling to contemplate how
varieties, and daily specials. The Gemeentemuseum het Hannemahuis (%41 Eisinga could have devised a mechanical tim-
36 58; Voorstraat 56; adult/child 2.50/1; h1.30-5pm Tue-Sat Eating ing system built to a viewable working scale
Getting There & Around Apr-Jun & Oct-Nov, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun Jul- Restaurant Noorderpoort (%41 50 43; Noorderhaven that could encompass and illustrate so many
From the train station (which now sports a Sep, closed Dec-Mar) is housed in an 18th-century 17; mains 17-25; hlunch & dinner) Noorderport different variables of time and motion.
model train museum), the centre of town is a building and includes material on Harlingens occupies a sunny spot on one of the towns The HarlingenLeeuwarden train stops in
five-minute walk along Stationstraat. Trains to/ past as a whaling town. Along with farming, canals, and has views of the ferry port. The Franeker (from Leeuwarden 3.30, 17 min-
from Leeuwarden cost 4 (20 minutes, two whaling was one of the industries that made casual menu mixes Dutch food with French utes, two hourly), 500m from the centre.
per hour). Friesland one of the most prosperous regions flourishes. Otherwise try the sandwiches at
The friendly staff at Rijwielhandel Twa Tsjil- in the Netherlands in the 1700s. Hence the cel- the adjoining caf. HINDELOOPEN (HYLPEN)
len (%41 38 78; Wijde Noorderhorne 8; per day 5) rents ebration of flensing and flensers the process %0514 / pop 1100
bikes. of stripping blubber from a whales carcass, Getting There & Away Huddled up against the banks of the IJssel-
and the lucky chaps who got to do it. Harlingen is connected to Leeuwarden (4.50, meer, Hindeloopen has been set apart from
HARLINGEN (HARNS) 22 minutes) by two trains hourly; most run Friesland for centuries. Until recently, the
%0517 / pop 15,600 Sleeping directly to the harbour, from where its a short local women still wore characteristic green
Of all the old Frisian ports, only Harlingen Zeezicht Harlingen (%41 25 36; www.hollandhotels.nl; walk to the ferry terminal. For ferry details to and red costumes that were similar to the also
has kept its link to the sea. It still plays an Zuiderhaven 1; s/d 60/87.50) Zeezicht may be part of Vlieland and Terschelling, see p239 and p241 characteristic hand-carved furniture.
important role for shipping in the area, and a chain, but its by no means generic. Rooms respectively. With its narrow streets, tiny canals, little
bridges, long waterfront, and lack of traffic,
FRANEKER (FRJENTSJER) Hindeloopen makes for a beautiful afternoon
SNEEKS WATERSPORTS BONANZA
%0517 / pop 21,000 escape. In extraordinarily cold winters it is one
Sneek is surrounded by water, and any activity associated with it particularly if it involves wind, About 6km east of Harlingen, the quaint town of the key towns on the route of the Elfsteden-
of which there is hardly ever a shortage is big in Sneek. of Franeker was once a big player in edu- tocht (see the boxed text, p238) and has a quaint
Several sailing and windsurfing schools, where you can learn from scratch or top up existing cation, until Napoleon closed its university yet reverent museum devoted to the race.
skills, operate in the area. One of the largest is Zeilschool de Friese Meren (%41 21 41; www down in 1810. Today its well preserved centre Other coastal towns in the area worth a
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
.zfm.nl; Eeltjebaasweg 7), which has a range of courses. The tourist office has a long list of various makes for a fine hours stroll, but Franekers peek, if you have time, are pretty Makkum
operators and services available. highlight is its planetarium. and busy Workum; both towns are north of
If youd just prefer to watch sleek ships skip across the water, then sail into town around the The Eise Eisinga Planetarium (%39 30 70; www Hindeloopen.
beginning of August to catch Sneekweek (www.sneekweek.nl), the largest sailing event on Europes .planetarium-friesland.nl; Eise Eisingastraat 3; adult/child
inland waters. Youll be treated to plenty of racing activity and lots of frivolity. 3.50/2.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun year-round, Information
During the summer months there are boat cruises on the local waters. The schedules change 1-5pm Mon Apr-Oct) is the worlds oldest work- The staff at the tourist office (%52 25 50; Nieuwstad
by whim, weather and number of operators each season. Most leave from the Oosterkade, at the ing planetarium. The namesake owner was a 26; h10.30am-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat) can help with
end of Kleinzand, so either wander over or inquire at the tourist office. tradesman with a serious sideline in cosmic accommodation. For banks and supermarkets,
mathematics and astrology, who clearly could youll have to go 4km north to Workum.
 238 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) F r i s i a n I s l a n d s Book accommodation
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Getting There & Away tle or moderately gruelling; there are many
A DAY AT THE RACES Almost daily ferries link the islands with the unsealed tracks that confident off-roaders
Skating and the Dutch culture are interwoven and no event better symbolises this than the Elf- mainland. Island hopping is, however, a bit of can opt to tackle, opening great new sightsee-
stedentocht (Eleven Cities Race; www.elfstedentocht.nl). Begun officially in 1909, although it had been a headache, even in the busy summer months. ing possibilities.
held for hundreds of years before that, the race is 200km long, starts and finishes in Leeuwarden Rederij Doeksen (%44 20 02; www.rederij-doeksen.nl) For nature hikes and bird-watching walks,
and passes through 10 Frisian towns (11 including Leeuwarden): Sneek, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren, links Vlieland and Terschelling throughout consult the tourist office.
Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, Franeker and Dokkum. The record time for complet- the year, but times change on a frequent basis;
ing the race is six hours and 47 minutes, set in 1985. its best to consult the online timetable before SLEEPING & EATING
While it is a marathon, what makes the race a truly special event is that it can only be held in making solid plans. Day trips are possible, but You will certainly not starve on Vlieland,
years when its cold enough for all the canals to freeze totally; this has only happened 15 times youll have to catch the earliest ferry, although but the range of eateries on the island is
since 1909. The last time was in 1997. So how do you schedule such an event? You dont. youre better off spending a couple of nights quite small. Sleeping options are another
Instead, there is a huge Elfstedentocht committee that waits for the mercury to plummet. enjoying the island atmosphere. story, although over the summer months,
When it looks as though the canals will be properly frozen, 48 hours notice is given. All work and on sunny weekends, be sure to book
effectively ends throughout the province as armies of volunteers make preparations for the race, Vlieland ahead.
and the thousands of competitors get ready. %0562 / pop 1200 Camping Stortemelk (%45 12 25; www.stortemelk
On the third day, the race begins at 5.30am. The next few hours are a holiday for the rest of Historically the most isolated of the islands, .nl; Kampweg 1; camp site per person/tent 5.70/4.40) Stor-
the Netherlands as well, as the population gathers around TVs to watch the live coverage. Vlieland is still ignored by most tourists today. temelk is a typically beachy camp site, with little
Its a windswept and wild place, with much of wind protection but close proximity to sandy
its western end at the mercy of sand and sea, beaches and introduced forest. Theres a small
Sights & Activities Getting There & Away but this is part of its charm. The sole town, restaurant, playground and shop on site.
Hindeloopen is best experienced at a slow The train stop is a pleasant 2.5km walk from Oost-Vlieland, is small, and only residents are Pension Hotelletje de Veerman (%45 13 78; www
pace. If, however, you need a diversion, head town. There is an hourly service to Sneek allowed to bring cars across on the ferry. .pensiondeveerman.nl; Dorpsstraat 173, Oost-Vlieland; s/d from
for the Het Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum (%52 16 (3.70, 18 minutes) and Leeuwarden (6.70, 40/60) Veerman is very much a homy pension,
83; www.schaatsmuseum.nl; Kleine Weide 1-3; adult/child 40 minutes). INFORMATION with friendly owners and cosy communal
1.50/1.15; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) which The tourist office (%45 11 11; www.vlieland.net; Haven- areas. The rooms are basic and filled with mis-
focuses on the Elfstedentocht and ice skating FRISIAN ISLANDS weg 10; internet per hr 6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1hr after matching furniture, but theyre fine if youre
in general. The detailed descriptions, pictures Frieslands four islands Vlieland, Terschell- each ferry arrival Sat & Sun) is as helpful as ever, and just looking for a bed for the night.
and displays of manufacturing techniques and ing, Ameland and Schiermonnikoog are has internet access.
developments in skating technology through collectively known as the Frisian Islands. GETTING THERE & AROUND
the centuries including clogs with spikes Despite the fact that theyre basically raised SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Regular ferries (return adult/child 20.85/
is quite enthralling, as is the history of the banks of sand and mud (with plenty of in- Theres not much in the way of human-made 10.95, bicycle 10.85) to Vlieland, which leave
Elfstedentocht. troduced pine forests to stabilise them), they attractions on Vlieland, and thats exactly the from Harlingen, take approximately 90 min-
The race is covered in biographical summa- are a popular target for many city-bound point: nature is the attraction. Most of the 72 utes and generally depart at 8.45am, 1.30pm
ries for each winner of the event, and current Dutch (and a fair few Germans too) look- sq km of island lies waiting to be explored by and 7.30pm daily from May to September;
record holder and two-time champ Evert van ing to escape the crowds and enjoy a rural bike or on foot, although its 18km of beaches in the winter months, theres a 2.30pm sail-
Benthem (in 1985 and 86), a modern-day beach holiday during the warmer summer arent as much fun to cycle as the untamed ing Wednesday to Monday, and sometimes
legend, receives plenty of coverage. months. interior. Depending on how fit you consider an extra one at 9am. A fast service (return
Each of the islands has been developed yourself, cycling around Vlieland can be gen- adult/child 24.80/14.90), taking around 45
Sleeping & Eating with tourism in mind, and the number of
Camping Hindeloopen (%52 14 52; www.camping pensions, hotels, and rooms and cottages for
hindeloopen.nl; Westerdijk 9; camp site 19.50) To the rent is staggering, considering the islands SHIPWRECKED SHOES
south of the town behind the protective dyke size. Despite the development, all have large Terschelling and its residents are used to all manner of flotsam and jetsam washing up on its
is this large camping ground, with beach open spaces where you can get close to the northerly beaches, but beachcombers on the morning of 10 February 2006 were treated to an
access, windsurfing school, and restaurant sea grasses or the water itself. Any of the unusual sight, even for these parts thousands upon thousands of shoes.
on site. islands makes an interesting trip on its own The previous night the P&O ship Mondriaan was hit by a particularly nasty storm and lost a
De Stadsboerderij (%52 12 78; info@skutsjearrange and there are copious bicycle-rental options load of containers overboard. The currents took the booty which consisted not only of shoes
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
menten.nl; Nieuwe Weide 9; s/d 45/70) With comfy near the ferry ports. Paths suitable for hik- but also briefcases, toys and meat directly to Terschellings beaches. Most containers remained
rooms in a quiet corner of town, De Stads- ing and biking circle each of the islands sealed, but some had spilled a purported 100,000 pairs of shoes into the North Sea. News soon
boerderij can guarantee a peaceful nights and, away from the built-up areas, youre spread of the veritable goldmine, and locals rushed to find a pair of hiking boots and trainers
sleep. Theres also a restaurant-pub next door, rewarded with long sandy beaches on the that would fit (which, when hunting through 200,000 shoes, isnt that easy).
with photos of boats sailing the IJsselmeer at seaward sides. Such a find is a rarity, however prior to this, the last good opportunity for beachcombing
uncomfortable angles. In summer the islands are very crowded, occurred around 15 years ago. But you may still be able to get in on the action; some B&B
Theres a sprinkling of restaurants and so dont just show up and expect to find a owners managed to collect dozens of pairs and will sell them to guests (no questions asked, of
cheap fried-fish places overlooking the towns room; populations routinely multiply by 10 course) for as little as 5.
harbour. on warm weekends.


240 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) F r i s i a n I s l a n d s www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
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. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
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FRISIAN ISLANDS 0
0
10 km
6 miles
of the sea and harbour, large scale tall-ship models, and
plenty of seafood specials.
A B C D E F De Heeren Van Der Schelling (%44 87 80; Ooster-
SLEEPING
Schiermonnikoog end; mains 11-20; hlunch & dinner Thu-Mon) One of
Camping de Duinkant........................1 C2
4
the quietest spots on the island in peaceful Oosterend, with
Camping Duinoord.............................2 D1
1 Camping Stortemelk...........................3 B2
Schiermonnikoog
Schiermonnikoog
1 a large sun-drenched patio.
Seedune..............................................4 F1 Ameland National Park
Stayokay Terschelling.........................5 B2
Stayokay Waddencentrum Ameland...6 D1 Ballum
2
Engelsmanplaat
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Buren
Terschelling 6
Hollum
Nes Ferries (return adult/child 20.55/9.85, bicycle
De Boschplaat Lauwersoog 10.85) leave from Harlingen for Terschelling
1 and are operated by Rederij Doeksen (%44 20 02;
Oosterend N358
NORTH Midsland Hoorn
Lauwersmeer
www.rederij-doeksen.nl). The large car ferries take
SEA Holwerd
two hours and generally depart at 9.45am
West-Terschelling 5
Ferwerd
Hogebeintum and 3pm daily, with an extra couple of serv-
2 Dokkum 2 ices in July and August. The faster hydrofoil
N357
To Groningen service (return adult/child 24.50/13.80)
Waddenzee (14km)
3 Damwoude
Kollum takes around 45 minutes and normally sails
Vlieland Oost- Richel N393 FRIESLAND Veenklooster
at 7.30am, 11.15am and 4.30pm from May
Vlieland Stiens N356 Buitenpost
to October, and 10am, 4.30pm and 6.20pm
aal
Griend N355
argri
et k
an November to April.
M
Leeuwarden Hourly buses (day-ticket 5) run the

Pr
Bergum
Franeker A31 GRONINGEN length of the main road; bicycles can be
Surhuisterveen
hired for as little as 4.50, and some bicycle
3 N359 N31
3 rental places will also deliver bikes to the
Harlingen
De Cocksdorp ferry, and transport your luggage to your
N384 accommodation.
To Sneek
Texel (16km) To Zwolle Drachten
Witmarsum (75km)
Ameland
%0519 / pop 3600
minutes direct and 90 minutes via Terschell- INFORMATION these days, everybody gets into the spirit of If the Frisian Islands were given personali-
ing, also operates from Harlingen; its very The tourist office (%44 30 00; www.vvv-terschelling.nl; things. Its a wild, arty party, piercing the ties, Ameland would be the person sitting on
irregular, so check the timetable online before Willem Barentszkade 19A, West-Terschelling; internet per hr 6; otherwise unflappable northern faade for 10 the fence. Its four peaceful villages Buren,
making plans. Ferries also sail to nearby Texel h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) is incredibly days towards the end of June. Nes, Ballum and Hollum are less developed
over the summer months; see Texel (p170) for helpful, with a great range of maps for cycling than those on Terschelling and Texel, but they
more details. or walking (around 3.40). They will book SLEEPING & EATING provide enough social structure for the major-
You can cycle (bike hire around 6) around hotels and pensions for 7.50. Camping de Duinkant (%44 89 17; camp sites per per- ity of tourists. Its large swaths of untouched
the island, and there is also a little bus that son/tent 3.20/2.75) This basic camping ground natural splendour offer places to escape the
wanders the few roads of Oost Vlieland. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES at the eastern end of the main road is just crowds, but Mother Nature doesnt rule the
De Boschplaat, a huge car-free natural reserve at a farmers field, with no cooking facilities. It is, roost as on Schiermonnikoog or Vlieland.
Terschelling the eastern end of the island, is the highlight of however, lovely and remote, with nothing but All in all, Ameland is an island for those
%0562 / pop 4800 the island. It is the only EU-designated Euro- green pastures and sand dunes as neighbours. looking for a nice balance.
At 110 sq km, Terschelling is the largest of pean Natural Monument in the Netherlands. Stayokay Terschelling (%44 23 38; terschelling@
the Frisian Islands; its also the most visited The Terschelling Museum t Behouden Huys stayokay.com; Burg van Heusdenweg 39, West-Terschelling; INFORMATION
and commercial. Its small villages, of which (%44 23 89; www.behouden-huys.nl; Commandeurstraat dm/s/d 25/45/66) Just outside West Terschellings The islands main tourist office (%54 65 46; www
West-Terschelling is the largest, are strung 30-32; adult/child 3/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat borders, this suitably standard Stayokay hostel .vvv-ameland.nl; Rixt van Doniastraat, Nes; h9am-12.30pm
out along the southern edge of the island, Apr-Oct, also 1-5pm Sun mid-JunSep, closed Oct-Mar) covers has rooms in good nick, a small restaurant, & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) is seven min-
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
while its northern coast is all sand dunes and the islands maritime past. and a kids playground. utes walk, or one bus stop, from the ferry
white beaches. The eastern end of the island Hotel Buren (%44 22 26; Mentzstraat 20, West- terminal. It has plenty of information on the
is a wild and isolated place, and perfect for FESTIVALS & EVENTS Terschelling; s/d 50/60) On a quiet street in the heart island, including an excellent map (3.75),
escaping the crowds. The annual Oerol outdoor performance festival of West-Terschelling is Buren, a welcoming lit- and internet access (per hour 3), but doesnt
The smaller villages of Hoorn and Ooster- on Terschelling is revered nationwide as a tle B&B. Its rooms are spotless and bright, with book B&Bs.
end are east of West-Terschelling and much perfect excuse for going offshore. It started personal touches like heart-shaped sinks.
less commercial, but closer to the very pretty years ago with farmers letting their cows run Also recommended: SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
natural parts of the island. Like the other loose one day each year (hence the name oerol, Zeezicht (%44 22 68; Willem Barentszkade 20, West- At only 85 sq km in size, Ameland is easily
islands, cars are best left on the mainland. which means everywhere or all over) Terschelling; mains 12-20; hlunch & dinner) Views tackled by pedal power. Bicycle paths cover the
 Lonely Planet Publications
242 F R I E S L A N D ( F R Y S L N ) F r i s i a n I s l a n d s Book accommodation
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entire island, and include a 27km bicycle path werd on the mainland. The latter has a large The island is the most popular destina- pension with simple, comfortable rooms. Each
that runs almost the entire length of northern parking area for people who sensibly forgo tion for wadlopers, or mud-walkers from the room has a sink, but the toilet and shower is
shore just south of protective sand dunes. The taking cars to the island. The ferries run al- mainland (p251). shared with other guests.
eastern third of the island is given over to a most every two hours (45 minutes) all year
combination of wetlands and dunes, with not from 7.30am to 7.30pm, hourly on Friday and SLEEPING & EATING GETTING THERE & AWAY
a settlement in sight; its by far the best place Saturday from June to August. Schiermonnikoog has very few hotels and Wagenborg (%09004554455; www.wpd.nl; adult/child
to take time out for yourself. To reach the Holwerd ferry terminal from B&Bs, but plenty of bungalows and apart- return 11.85/6.55, bicycles 7.45) runs ferries between
Of the villages, the 18th-century former Leeuwarden, take bus 66 (40 minutes, hourly); ments; cafs line the few streets of downtown Schiermonnikoog and the port of Lauwer-
whaling port of Nes is the prettiest and most a ticket covering this bus, the ferry and a bus Schiermonnikoog. soog in Groningen province. At least three
carefully preserved (although all are interest- ride on the island, can be purchased at the Seedune (%53 13 98; www.schiermonnikoog.net ferries daily make the 45-minute voyage; the
ing for a brief stroll), its streets lined with tidy Leeuwarden train station (p235) for 23.10. /seedune; Seeduneweg 1; camp site per person/tent 4.10/2.90) first sails at 6.30am, the last at 5.30pm. A bus
little brick houses. Hollum, the most western Taxis and a small network of public buses Just north of town, this huge camp site (room meets all incoming ferries, which arrive at the
village, has windswept dunes within easy walk, that serve the islands four towns meet the for 800 tents) is, as expected, sandy, wind- islands port, for the 3km run into the town
and is in sight of a famous red and white ferries. Bicycles can be rented all over the swept and isolated, which for many will be of Schiermonnikoog.
lighthouse (adult/child 3.50/2.50; h10am-5pm & 7-9pm island. absolutely perfect. Bus 163 and bus 50 make the one-hour run
Tue-Sat, 1-5pm & 7-9pm Sun) with expansive views. Pension Lulu (%53 13 06; www.pensionlulu.nl; Lang- to Lauwersoog five times daily from Gronin-
Schiermonnikoog estreek 70; r per person 28.50) Lulu is a quiet, family gen and Leeuwarden respectively.
SLEEPING & EATING %0519 / pop 1000
All four villages have accommodation options, The smallest and most serene of the Frisian
although Nes is the most convenient, being a Islands, Schiermonnikoog is the place to get
hop, skip and a jump from the ferry port. away from it all; the feeling of sheer isolation
Stayokay Waddencentrum Ameland (%55 53 53; as you move through Schiermonnikoogs 40
[email protected]; Oranjeweg 59; dm/s/d 25/45/66) sq km, or along the 18km of beaches, can be
This Stayokay establishment is 200m west of quite moving. Its name means grey monk
the lighthouse outside Hollum. The atmos- island, a reference to the 15th-century clerics
phere is decidedly summer-camp, rooms are who once lived here; however all traces of
basic but in great condition, and sand dunes these folk are gone and the island is mostly
are literally outside the doorstep. Meals, pack wild. The Dutch government made Schier-
lunches and bicycles can also be ordered. monnikoog a national park in 1989, so the
Zeewinde (%54 65 00; www.zeewinde.nl; Torenstraat wilderness should remain unfettered.
22, Nes; r from 75) It may be a Best Western, but The islands sole town, Schiermonnikoog, is
Zeewinde has just as much character as most quiet, even when crowded. Nonresidents are
hotels on the island. Its brand new rooms not allowed to bring cars onto the island.
are neither large nor small, but do include a
kitchenette and bathtub, which is welcome INFORMATION
relief after a day on a bike (which can be The tourist office (%53 12 33; www.vvvschiermonnik
rented from reception). oog.nl; Reeweg 5; internet per hr 3; h9am-12.30pm &
Camping Duinoord (%54 20 70; Jan van Eijckweg 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat) is in the middle of
4; camp site/car 12.40/1.50) This camp site is only town and can fill you in on all you need to
2km north of Nes, right near the beach. Its know about the island.
exposed to the wind and has very few facili-
ties, but shops, restaurants and an expansive SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
playground (ie the beach) are all close by. The sights and activities on the island revolve
Herberg De Zwaan (%55 40 02; Zwaneplein 6; mains around one thing the great outdoors. The
16-20; hlunch & dinner) De Zwaan is a quaint best idea is to grab a map, rent a bike, pack
restaurant in the heart of Hollum and has a a picnic, and head off in any direction that
FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)

FRIESLAND (FRYSLN)
menu heavily laden with fish dishes, which is takes your fancy. Youll come back pleasantly
always a good sign for an island eatery. The refreshed and ready to face the crowds back
building dates from 1772, which equates to on the mainland.
wood-beam ceilings and plenty of arches. If you require a little more information, Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
head for the national parks visitors centre (%53 restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
GETTING THERE & AROUND 16 41; Torenstreek 20; h10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Apr- only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Wagenborg (%54 61 11; www.wpd.nl; adult/child return Oct, 1.30-5.30pm Sat Nov-Mar) in an old power sta-
11.25/5.95, bicycle 7.45, car 75.85) operates ferries tion in town. It reveals the natural features everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
between Nes and the large ferry port at Hol- of the island. the above - Do the right thing with our content.

Lonely Planet Publications
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 244 www.lonelyplanet.com G R O N I N G E N G r o n i n g e n C i t y 245

GRONINGEN & DRENTHE

0 20 km
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE
Groningen & Drenthe
0 12 miles

NORTH Schiermonnikoog
SEA National Park

Schiermonnikoog

Ameland Roodeschool
Bierum
Uithuizen GERMANY
Pieterburen
The provinces of Groningen and Drenthe are far from the tourist trails. Few visitors venture Holwerd
Ferwerd Delfzijl
N46
this far north, and if they happen to, choose the islands of Friesland for entertainment instead. Hogebeintum
Dokkum N360 To Oldenburg
Ee Bedum Ten (66km)
er
This is all well and good, but its also a shame, for theyre missing out on the Netherlands m Boer

ku
al
na

D ok
Garmerwolde
rural heart, a place where traditions are kept alive, and remnants of prehistoric residents ms
ka
E22
tk anaal Ee GRONINGEN
dot the landscape. N355 Margrie Groningen
Leeuwarden
A7
Groningen may be the smaller of the two provinces, but it has the most going for it. Its capital, E22
FRIESLAND Eelde Winschoterdiep
Winschoten
from which the region gained its name, is a delightful city with a cosmopolitan buzz and plenty
Midlaren
of youthful energy (mainly due to its substantial student population). Museums, restaurants, Drachten

bars, theatre, canals, festivals you name it, the city has it. Its the centre of culture and enter- A7 Annen Vlagtwedde
To Oldenburg

N381 N366 (67km)
tainment in the north and aptly represented by the tourist offices bright orange G-spot logo. Bourtange
To
Sneek Assen Stadskanaal
The rest of Groningen province a rural landscape blessed with a handful of intriguing (6km)
Heerenveen
Smilde
A32 N34
attractions is in sleepy contrast. In Pieterburen, even the hardest of hearts will empty their N351 E232 Kamp
wallets in support of the Zeehondencreche, a refuge for sick seals. The town is also the Wolvega A28
Westerbork Borger

base for the bizarre pastime of wadlopen (mud-walking). Bourtange, on the eastern border Westerbork Odoorn
Orvelte Klijndijk
to Germany, makes the shortlist for Best Fortified Town in the Land; its hefty defences are N371
N381
just as forbidding now as they were in the 16th century. Weerribben Emmen
National Park DRENTHE

Drenthe is an agricultural province, no question. Paddocks of farmland are separated by E233

A6 Giethoorn A37
pockets of woodlands, creating a peaceful environment meant for slow exploration; the only
A28 Coevorden
E232
disturbance is the occasional whiff of farm smells. Drenthes biggest draw is its hunebedden, To Amersfoort
(84km)
prehistoric rock masses purportedly used as burial chambers, but the likes of Orvelte, a village A28
with one foot firmly planted in the 19th century, will also interest many travellers. GERMANY
To Zwolle To Zwolle
(6km) (30km)

talking Dutch distances here, not Texan), but

HIGHLIGHTS
Wadden
GRONINGEN looks can be deceiving.
This vibrant, youthful city of the north is
Experience northern culture at its best in the Mud Flats
Pieterburen
museums, cafs, bars and clubs of vibrant Like Utrecht, Groningen is a small province very much part of the comings and goings of
Groningen (opposite) named after its primary city. Beyond the buzzing the country, and has everything youd expect of
town itself, farmland dominates the landscape a progressive metropolis. Its student population
Join a wadlopen (p251) excursion and Groningen
stomp out a muddy trail on the Wadden in every direction, but among the polders, cows (which has been around since 1614 when the
mud flats and sheep are a few attributes worth seeking university opened) of 20,000 ensures a healthy
out. If mud, mud and more mud is your thing, and hedonistic nightlife exists alongside the art
Support the seal-rescuing efforts of Bourtange
then the northern coast will appeal, though the museums, theatre and classical concerts its more
Pieterburens Zeehondencreche (p250)
scenery is best near the German border around mature, established residents demand. And like
Hunebedden
Walk the fortified ramparts of 16th-century the fortified town of Bourtange. everywhere in this waterlogged country, youll
Bourtange (p251) find gabled houses reflected in still canals.
Wonder at the hunebedden (p253), mighty GRONINGEN CITY
stone constructions left behind by our long- %050 / pop 177,300 Orientation
dead ancestors Looking at a map of the Netherlands, Gron- The old centre, which can be crossed on
ingen seems a long way from anywhere (were foot in 15 minutes, is nicely compact and
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 246 G R O N I N G E N G r o n i n g e n C i t y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R O N I N G E N G r o n i n g e n C i t y 247

GRONINGEN & DRENTHE

entirely ringed by canals. The train station ing three islands in the middle of the canal

0.2 miles

D3

D2

D1
D2

D2

Bus Station......................35 D4
C2

C2
C3

De Pintelier......................25 C2
E3

O'Ceallaigh......................26 E3
Roezemoes.......................27 E3

E3
E2

E2

E2
is just across from the Groninger Museum, in front of the station, the museum is, at the

Ariola.............................. 19
naa20
mska 21
22
Granny's..........................23
Puur! Natural Food..........24

De Oosterpoort................28
Filmtheatre Images...........29
Golden Arm.....................30
Grand Theatre.................31
Jazz Caf De Spieghel......32
Palace..............................33
Vera.................................34
300 m

l
Four Rose's......................
Brussels Lof......................

Goudkantoor...................
and around a 10-minute walk from Grote very least, a schizophrenic structure that will
Markt, the main town square. Virulent anticar draw an opinion from any viewer. However,

ENTERTAINMENT
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policies dating from the 1970s mean that the opinions vary wildly, from a breathtaking

rhave

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TOURIST INFORMATION tricately carved replica of the church at Para-

ndie

Camping (2km)
Tourist office (%09002023050; www.vvvgroningen maribo the capital of former Dutch colony
plantsoen

eg To Stadspark
Hoe
D2
D2

D4
D4
D2

D1
D3
D2

D3

D2
Noorder

C2
C3

C3

C1
E2

F1

E2

E3
.nl; Grote Markt 25; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat Surinam in a bottle (Room 3), showing just Handy Wash...................................1
Library............................................2
Post Office.....................................3
Scholtens Wristers..........................4
Tourist Office................................ 5
UMCG............................................6

Canal Tours................................... 7
Groninger Museum....................... 8
Martinikerk....................................9
Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum...10
Prinsenhof....................................11
Synagogue...................................12
Town Hall.................................... 13

Auberge Corps De Garde.............14

City Hotel.....................................15
Hotel Garni Friesland....................16
Martini Hotel ...............................17
Schimmelpenninck Huys.............. 18
GRONINGEN CITY

year-round, 11am-3pm Sun Jul & Aug) Offers advice on a how much time sailors had to kill on long

tskanaal
wide range of topics and sells tickets, tours, a handy map voyages, and detailed models demonstrating

erw
(2) and more. just how the many local shipyards operated

Peiz
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Eendrach
throughout the centuries (Room 8). After
Sights & Activities
INFORMATION

Room 8, there are three rooms devoted to the

A

GRONINGER MUSEUM Niemeyer Tabaksmuseum (Niemeyer Tobacco

SLEEPING
Arriving by train its impossible to miss the Museum), which is dedicated to the smok-
Groninger Museum (% 366 65 55; www.groninger ing habits of the Dutch through the ages.
-museum.nl; Museumeiland 1; adult/child 8/4; h10am-5pm Unsurprisingly, it looks as though some of the
2

3
1

4
Tue-Sun year-round, noon-5pm Mon Jul & Aug). Occupy- dummies arent just toking on tobacco.
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 248 G R O N I N G E N G r o n i n g e n C i t y Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com G R O N I N G E N G r o n i n g e n C i t y 249

GRONINGEN & DRENTHE

OTHER SIGHTS Sleeping filled with rooms ranging from simple, stylish Brussels Lof (%312 76 03; A-Kerkstraat 24; mains
The Grote Markt is a big, caf-ringed square The tourist office will book accommodation standard doubles to suites with antique pieces 17-22; hdinner Thu-Mon) This upmarket spot
with little charm, but it does feature a few and carries a list of B&Bs and pensions start- and chandeliers. concentrates on seafood and vegetarian crea-
eye-catching buildings. The town hall, which ing at 20 per person. tions, and leaves the fancy dcor to other
dates from 1810, is one of them, but the 16th- Eating establishments. Its mussels receive special
century Martinikerk (% 311 12 77; Grote Markt; BUDGET Groningen may be a student city, but it still mention, but basically anything you try here
h 11am-5pm Apr-Nov, noon-4pm Dec-Mar), at the Hotel Garni Friesland (%312 13 07; ww.hotelfriesland has a sizable smorgasbord of fine restaurants; will be of the highest standard, and the service
northern corner of the Grote Markt, steals .nl; Kleine Pelsterstraat; s/d 35/50) The Garni is bare some of our favourites are listed below, but is professional with a capital P.
the show. Its tower, the Martinitoren, is 96m bones, but its in a good location on a street there are plenty more to explore. Those self- Also worth mentioning is Grannys (%318 91
tall and is considered to have one of the most with several cafs and the prices are unbeat- catering can head to the organic food market 117; A-Kerkhof NZ 43; apple tart from 1.60), which has
finely balanced profiles in the country. A able. Service is friendly and amenable, and on Tuesday at Vismarkt, and those looking the best apple tart to accompany a great cup
climb (3, purchase tickets at tourist office) rooms are spartan yet highly adequate. for a quick fix will find Gedempte Zuiderdiep of coffee or tea.
to the top yields stellar views. Stadspark Camping (%525 16 24; www.stads lined with cheap fast-food places and cafs.
Just southwest of the Grote Markt, Vis- campings.nl; Campinglaan 4; camp site 18; hmid-Marmid- Goudkantoor (%589 18 88; Waagplein 1; mains 12- Drinking
markt is a more intimate and attractive Oct) Stadspark is a spacious, green camp site 20; hlunch & dinner) To be honest, the quality of Groningens nightlife is centred on Poelestraat
square, and not far south of Vismarkt is surrounded by a huge park, yet is within easy the food at Goudkantoor doesnt matter; the and its adjoining streets, although people flock
one of the few working synagogues (%312 shot of the city. Facilities include a shop, res- architecture of this recently restored histori- to a multitude of bars scattered throughout
31 51; Folkingestraat 60; adult/child 1/free) left in the taurant and playground for the kids; from the cal haunt is sustenance enough. Dating from the city.
country. It began life a century ago as a train station, take bus 4 (direction: Hoogkerk) 1635, the Gold Office is a classic example of OCeallaigh (%314 76 94; Gedempte Kattendiep
mosque (the light arches and minarets are about 3km west to the Stadspark stop. 17th century showmanship, with a gold-tinted 13) Respected newspaper Volkskrant called
dead giveaways) but now houses a school exterior and graceful interior, complete with OCeallaigh the best Irish pub in the Neth-
and temporary exhibition space; its beauti- MIDRANGE striking paintings. Truth be told though, the erlands, and they were right; theres regular
fully restored wooden ceiling is one of the City Hotel (% 588 65 65; www.edenhotelgroup.com; food (Dutch standards) is quite good. live music, even more regulars, Guinness and
interiors highlights. Check Tourist Office Gedempte Kattendiep 25; r from 75; ni) This must oDe 7e Hemel (7th Heaven; %314 51 41; Murphys on tap, and the atmosphere is thick
for opening times. be a good hotel even the cleaners are happy. Zuiderkerkstraat 7; mains 15-18; hdinner Tue-Sat) De with smoky and boisterous chatter.
If youre exploring the northeastern corner Rooms are standard business types, but theyre 7e Hemel, a short walk north of the centre, Roezemoes (%314 03 82; Gedempte Zuiderdiep 15)
of the city, take a breather at the serene gardens a good bet for those requiring a few more prides itself on the quality of what it serves You can tell this gem of a brown caf has been
(Turfsingel; admission free; h10am-dusk) of Prinsenhof, creature comforts. Added bonuses include its customers; it even goes as far as to import around a while; the bullet holes from the 1672
a 16th-century mansion. a rooftop deck, free coffee and tea on every Scottish mineral water direct from the Glens invasion attempt are a dead giveaway. Come
floor, free internet and a fine location. because of its purity. The menu, a concoction evening, expect to find late-night drinking
Tours Martini Hotel (%312 99 19; www.martinihotel.nl; of vegan, vegetarian, fish and meat dishes, is and the occasional blues band.
Canal tours (%312 83 79; www.rondvaartbedrijfkool Gedempte Zuiderdiep 8; r from 75; ni) Like the an ever-changing delight, and the cherubs, De Pintelier (%318 51 00; Kleine Kromme Elleboog
.nl; adult/child 7.50/5) Tours of the citys largest canals City Hotel, the Martini is just far enough away chandeliers and calming yellow shades all help 9) The selection of beer and jenevers (ginlike
take approximately 60 minutes and leave from in front from all the noise, yet close enough to provide to create a cosy, romantic air. liqueur) at this cosy bar reads like an ency-
of the train station anywhere between one and six times easy access to the centre. Rooms are bright Puur! Natural Food (%311 61 75; Folkingestraat 13; clopaedia at last count there were around
daily, depending on the season. and airy, though lack character and warmth, meals 3-7; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Puur! is health- 30 jenevers alongside 10 beers on tap. Its long
City walks (%0900-2023050; adult 4; h1pm Mon- but as this is Groningens largest hotel, there food heaven; its bagels, sandwiches, salads wooden bar and thicket of tables date from
Sat) The tourist office operates guided 90-minute walks are plenty of them. and sweets are not only made from organic the 1920s.
conducted in Dutch only. Auberge Corps De Garde (%314 54 37; www.corps ingredients, they also taste divine. Its hard to
degarde.nl; Oude Boteringestraat 72-74; r from 121) Origi- pass over the coffee, tea and freshly squeezed Entertainment
Festivals & Events nally the town guards quarters, the Corps juices on offer too, and everything is either To find out whats going on around town,
Noorderslag (www.eurosonic.nl; mid-Jan) A series of De Garde is an attractive listed building, and eat-in or takeaway. check out some of the posters that appear
concerts by up-and-coming (they hope) bands. would be one of the citys finest hotels if its Four Roses (%314 38 87; Oosterstraat 71; mains 10-16; everywhere, or pick up a copy of either the
Noorderzon (www.noorderzon.nl; mid-Aug) Eleven-day rooms werent so bland. They are, however, hdinner) With the most authentic Mexican food simple and informative Uit-Loper (weekly)
art festival featuring everything from theatre and music to big and well-lit, and the more expensive va- in the province, and an atmosphere that amaz- or meatier Uit Magazine (monthly); both are
childrens entertainers and electronic installations. riety come with a bath. ingly suits both families and romantic couples, free and in Dutch.
Bommen Berend (28 Aug) Celebration of the day Four Roses is an excellent bet for an evening
the city repelled the invading troops of the Bishop of TOP END meal. Its cocktails are highly rated too. CLUBS
Munster. Schimmelpenninck Huys (%318 95 02; www.schim Ariola (%318 19 48; Folkingestraat 54; meals from Clubs open and close regularly in Groningen,
Studenten Cabaret Festival (www.gscf.nl; end Oct) melpenninckhuys.nl; Oosterstraat 53; d from 130; n) The 3.50; hlunch) The head-turning smells wafting but the ones listed here are all mainstayers:
Draws performers from around Europe. Schimmelpenninck is Groningens grande from its doorway, and crowds milling inside, Vera (%313 46 81; www.vera-groningen.nl; Oosterstraat
Sint Maarten (11 Nov) Locally grown sugar beets dame, and someone who likes to be draped speak of only one thing: Ariola is an outstand- 44) The club to see the next big rock act at; U2 played to
are carved into lanterns by kids, not unlike what their in finery. The ground floor is occupied by a ing little Italian deli. Its broodjes (filled bread 30-odd people in the early 1980s here, and Nirvana later
US counterparts do to pumpkins two weeks earlier for silver-service restaurant, pristine caf, and rolls) are made to order and only topped by gave a performance to a crowd of about 60 people before
Halloween. beautician, while the rest of the building is the home-made pastas and lasagne. going supernova. Concerts Thursday to Saturday.
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 250 G R O N I N G E N M u s e u m d e B u i t e n p l a a t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R O N I N G E N B o u r t a n g e 251

GRONINGEN & DRENTHE

Golden Arm (%313 16 76; www.goldenarm.nl; MUSEUM DE BUITENPLAATS
Hardewikerstraat 7) Huge gay club with four floors of In the little town of Eelde, 5km south of POUNDING MUD
pumping dance music. Groningen, is this charming museum (%050- Some folk pay a pretty penny for mud treatments and organised walks; Groningen and Friesland
Palace (%313 91 00; www.thepalace.nl; Gelkingestraat 309 58 18; www.museumdebuitenplaats.nl; Hoofdweg 76; have an activity that combines both. When the tide retreats across the mud flats off the north
1) Standard club attracting a predominantly young crowd adult/child Apr-Oct 7/3.30, Nov-Mar 5/2.50; h11am-5pm coast of Groningen, locals and visitors alike attack it with abandon, marching, and inevitably
with an array of music styles, and huge dance floor. Tue-Sun) devoted to figurative art from around sinking, into the sloppy mess. This mudtastic pastime is known as wadlopen (mud-walking), and
Europe. Opened in 1996 by the queen herself, youd be a stick-in-the-mud if you didnt give it a try while in the area.
LIVE MUSIC it began as a protest to an apartment block The mud stretches all the way to the Frisian islands offshore, and treks across to the islands
De Oosterpoort (%368 03 68; www.de-oosterpoort originally planned for the site. The main or- are quite popular. Because of the treacherous tides, and the fact that some walkers can become
.nl; Trompsingel) De Oosterpoort is the place in ganic structure, which blends into its natural muddled and lose their way, wadlopen can only be undertaken on a guided tour. Those who
Groningen to catch many of the large musical surroundings, features paintings from some enjoy wadlopen say that it is strenuous but enlivening; the unchanging vista of mud and sky has
acts passing through town. Jazz and classi- of the Netherlands more progressive 20th- an almost meditative quality, and the sense of achievement on traipsing across the sea bottom
cal concerts are the mainstay of its monthly century artists, such as Wout Muller, Henk with a rising tide hot on your heels brings upon a natural high.
programme. Helmantel, Herman Gordijn and Matthijs The centre for wadlopen is the tiny village of Pieterburen, 22km north of Groningen, where
Jazz Caf De Spieghel (%312 63 00; Peperstraat 11) Rling. Its manicured gardens are peppered several groups of trained guides are based; Wadloopcentrum (%0595-52 83 00; www.wadlopen.org;
A perennial favourite with locals this lively with sculptures, and benches aching to be Hoofdstraat 105) and Dijkstras Wadlooptochten (%0595-52 83 45; www.wadloop-dijkstra.nl; Hoofdstraat
brown caf features regular live jazz music, a used, and theres also a sun-bathed caf. Po- 118) are two of the better known. Guided walks, which take place between May and September,
smooth sultry atmosphere, and a great bar. etry readings, storytelling and musical con- range from a short 5km jaunt across the mud flats (8.50, 2 hours) to a gruelling, yet exhilarating,
certs are featured over the summer months 20km pound to Schiermonnikoog (22.50, five hours); the latter, for some unknown reason, is the
THEATRE & CINEMA on the museums open-air stage. most popular. The ferry ride back from the islands is not included in the price and its essential
Grand Theatre (%314 46 44; www.grand-theatre.nl; To get there, take bus 52 (28 minutes, every to book around a month in advance. Youll be told what clothes to bring depending on the time
Grote Markt 35) This, the citys premiere theatre, half-hour) from Groningen. of year, but always take a semblance of balance and plenty of perseverance.
offers a thought-provoking array of musical See opposite for public transport details to Pieterburen.
and theatrical performances. ZEEHONDENCRECHE PIETERBUREN
Filmtheatre Images (%312 04 33; Poelestraat 30; Back in 1972 Lenie t Hart, a resident of the
tickets 8) With a mix of offbeat films, festival small Groningen coastal town of Pieterburen, Tue-Sun Oct-Dec & Mar-Apr, closed Jan & Feb). Originally a the time. Behind its walls and moats it could
titles and classics, and a chilled caf, Images began caring for seals in her back yard. Pollu- fortified castle dating back to the 14th century, withstand months of siege by an invading
is an excellent place to catch some cinema tion and tourism were taking their toll on the Menkemaborg received its present gentrified army. However, by the early 1960s its walls
magic. local seal colonies, and it was her way of doing appearance a moated estate of three houses had been mostly breached or levelled and the
something about it. Her efforts over the years surrounded by immaculate gardens early in moats were largely filled in. A road even ran
Getting There & Away (along with the help of the scientific commu- the 18th century, and it has barely been altered through the present town centre.
The 1896 train station, thankfully restored to nity and proactive members of maritime in- since. Inside, the rooms retain all the pomp In 1964, however, the regional government
its original glory, is worth seeing even if youre dustries) have resulted in the Zeehondencreche and ceremony of 18th-century aristocratic decided to restore the battlements and the
not catching a train. (Seal Creche; %0595-52 65 26; www.zeehondencreche.nl; life, complete with carved oak mantelpieces, town itself to its 1742 appearance, when the
Some train fares and schedules: Hoofdstraat 94a; admission 2; h9am-6pm), a centre for stately beds and fine china. fortifications around the citadel had reached
the rescue and rehabilitation of sick seals. Hourly trains run between Uithuizen and their maximum size. It took three decades,
Destination Price Duration Frequency The centre normally houses 20 to 30 seals, Groningen (5.30, 34 minutes); the train sta- during which time roads were moved and
() (min) (per hr) which can be seen lounging and swimming tion is a 1km walk west of Menkemaborg. buildings demolished or reconstructed. Ar-
in various pools. The most popular times to chaeologists generally had a party.
Amsterdam 26.70 140 2 visit are 11am and 4pm when the seals are fed, BOURTANGE The results are impressive and Bourtange
Leeuwarden 8.30 50 2 and if one or more takes your fancy, you can %0599 / pop 1200 is stunningly pretty. The star-shaped rings of
Rotterdam 29.60 160 2 adopt him or her; the website also has details Bourtange, a tiny town near the German walls and canals have been completely rebuilt
Utrecht 24.50 120 2 on becoming a donor. border, is home to one of the best-preserved and the village has been returned to a glossier
To get to the Zeehondencreche, take the fortifications in the country. While rather version of its 18th-century self. Its a clich,
The bus station is to the right as you exit the train from Groningen to Warffum (4.30, small and best seen from the air, it is nonethe- but a visit to Bourtange is truly a step into
train station; the Arriva bus office (h7am-11pm) is 24 minutes, hourly), and then bus 68 (15 less a sight to behold, with its flooded moats, the past, a time when rogue armies wandered
found opposite the train information office. minutes, five times a day Monday to Friday) stolid defences, and quaint houses protected the lands and villagers hid behind defences
to Pieterburen. from all sides. The region around Bourtange designed to keep them at bay.
Getting Around is also worth exploring; off the beaten path, it
Groningen is easily tackled on foot or by bicy- MENKEMABORG consists of pretty countryside and tree-shaded Orientation & Information
cle, but if you plan to use the buses, one-day Some 25km northeast of Groningen in the canals, ideal for tackling by bike. From the parking area and tourist office,
passes (1) are available from drivers after small farming town of Uithuizen is one of the you pass through two gates and across three
9am. Bus 6 connects Grote Markt to the train Netherlands most authentic manor houses, History drawbridges over the moats before you reach
station, and bicycles can be rented from the Menkemaborg (%0595-43 19 70; Menkemaweg 2; adult/ Built in the late 1500s, Bourtange represents the old town proper. From the towns central
bicycle shop (%312 41 74) at the train station. child 4.50/2; h10am-5pm May-Sep, 10am-noon & 1-4pm the pinnacle of the arms and fortification of square, the Marktplein, cobblestone streets
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 252 D R E N T H E A s s e n Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D R E N T H E K a m p W e s t e r b o r k 253

GRONINGEN & DRENTHE

lead off in all directions; the pentagram- The two small eateries on Marktplein are The Drents Museum (%37 77 73; www.drents h10am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, 1-5pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun,
shaped inner fortification can be crossed in a the only places to eat within the old town: museum.nl; Brink 1; adult/child 5/3; h11am-5pm Tue- 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug), ironically, was built by
matter of minutes by foot. The towns tourist t Oal Kroegie (%35 45 80; Marktplein; snacks 2-6; Sun), near the centre, has hunebedden artefacts the Dutch government in 1939 to house Ger-
office (%35 46 00; William Lodewijkstraat 33; h10am- h10am-10pm) Provides light meals, sandwiches, and various artworks and furnishings from man Jews fleeing the Nazis. When the Germans
5pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-5pm Sat & Sun) has more than pancakes, a few beer varieties, shaded outdoor tables, and Drenthes history. If youve time to kill, or invaded in May 1940, they found Westerbork
enough information on the town, including friendly service. need to booster the energy levels, head to De ideal for their own ends. At first the camp re-
detailed displays showing the reconstruction s Lands Huys (%35 45 14; Marktplein; mains 14-17; Tijd (Time; %30 06 42; Beilerstraat 28; mains 12-18), an mained relatively benign, but beginning in 1942
and restoration. Aerial photographs show the h10am-10pm) A more cosy option housed in a former eccentric restaurant with hearty Dutch por- it became a transit point for those being sent to
remarkable changes between 1965 and the late officers inn, with full meals and outdoor seating. tions big enough for two, and an astounding the death camps. More than 107,000 Jews and
1990s. It also sells a handy English-language 2346 clocks (thankfully not wound). Take a 250 Roma were shipped through Westerbork.
booklet (1.50). Getting There & Away pew and chat with the owner, whose charm The vast majority never returned.
Bourtange is not easy to get to without your is quite disarming. Today the camp is a memorial to the mur-
Sights & Activities own wheels. From Groningen, take the hourly The tourist office and museum are 500m dered and a holocaust museum. Most of the
Inside the walls at the core of the fortifica- train east to Winschoten (5.70, 33 minutes), from the station by way of Stationsstraat. buildings are gone, but the remaining monu-
tion, brick houses make good use of what then bus 14 south to Vlagtwedde (25 min- Frequent trains connect Assen with both ments are emotionally moving. Consisting
little space the five bastions afford. Marktplein utes, at least one every hour) and transfer Groningen (4.80, 15 minutes) and Zwolle mainly of documents and personal effects,
is a good spot to start exploring, with its two to (mini)bus 72 for Bourtange (12 minutes, (11.60, 40 minutes). the displays are intimate and evocative. Anne
restaurants, small craft shops and tree-shaded 10 daily). With waiting time and transfers, Buses depart from the area to the left as you Frank was interned here before meeting her
benches. count on the trip taking about two hours bus exit the train station. The bicycle shop (%31 04 own fate at Bergen-Belsen, though undue
Of the old buildings, six have been turned 72 only runs before 9am and after 1pm, at 24) is right next door. attention on Westerborks most famous de-
into museums, which open from 10am to 5pm half-hour intervals. The return service from tainee is thankfully avoided. The camp itself
Monday to Friday and from 11am Saturday Bourtange leaves from the Marktplein at 15 KAMP WESTERBORK is about 3km from the museum; either walk
and Sunday; tickets (adult/child 5.50/3.50), and 45 minutes after the hour, once again About 10km south of Assen, near the tiny vil- or take the bus provided (1.75).
covering entry to all, can be purchased at the before 9am and after 1pm. lage of Hooghalen, is this, a reminder that the Bus 22 (12 minutes, every 30 minutes
tourist office. Two museums the Captains If touring by bike, combine Bourtange with atrocities of the holocaust were not confined Monday to Friday, and 12.14pm, 4.14pm and
Lodge and De Dagen van Roam cover the life visits over a few days to the hunebedden (op- to Central and Eastern Europe. 8.14pm Saturday and Sunday) from Assen
and times of the militia stationed at Bourtange posite) in Drenthe, some 30km to the west. Kamp Westerbork (%0593-59 26 00; www.kamp stops in Hooghalen, 2km west of the camp,
in the 17th and 18th centuries, while the Mu- westerbork.nl; Oosthalen 8, Hooghalen; adult/child 4.50/2.25; otherwise take a taxi.
seum de Baracquen displays artefacts and curios
uncovered during the forts reconstruction. De
Poort has an excellent model of Bourtange, and
DRENTHE HUNEBEDDEN
the towns synagogue, built in 1842, explains If ever there were a forgotten corner of the People have been enjoying the quiet in Drenthe since as early as 3000 BC, when prehistoric tribes
the life and times of its Jewish population, and Netherlands, this is it. With no sea access lived here amid the bogs and peat. These early residents began cultivating the land, a pastime
includes a plaque listing the 42 local people or major city to call its own (Emmen, with still enjoyed by many in the province, and created what is arguably the most interesting aspect
taken away to their deaths by the Nazis, a huge just over 100,000 people, is its largest), not a of Drenthe today, the hunebedden.
number given the towns small size. national park in sight, and little of the charm Hunebedden, which predate Stonehenge, are prehistoric burial chambers constructed with
However, the best thing to do in Bour- the country is so famous for, Drenthe is the huge grey stones, some of which weigh up to 25,000kg. It is thought the stones arrived in the
tange is traipse up and down its defensive Netherlands black sheep. But thats exactly Netherlands via glaciers from Sweden some 200,000 years ago, but no one can be certain of the
walls. More often than not youll have whole why this small backwater deserves a little of fact. Little is also known about the builders of the hunebedden, except that they took burying
stretches to yourself, and the view of the small your time, simply to experience something their dead very seriously, burying people, along with their personal items and tools, under the
village huddled behind its unbreachable walls different in a land where one pretty town monolithic stones. Theories as to how the chambers were constructed have been bantered about
is just crying out to be photographed. follows another and seascape after seascape by the scientific community, but once again, a definitive answer is yet to be found. A total of 54
lines the horizon. of these impressive groupings of sombre grey stones can be seen in Drenthe and Groningen.
Sleeping & Eating The Nationaal Hunebedden Informatiecentrum (%0599-23 63 74; www.hunebedden.nl; Bron-
Its possible to stay within the walls, in the ASSEN negerstraat 12; adult/child 4.75/3; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) in Borger, a little town
original soldiers (65) or captains (75) %0592 / pop 60,700 17km northwest of Emmen, is the centre for the hunebedden, and the logical place to start a
quarters. Bookings are taken at the tourist With a close proximity to Groningen, Assen, tour. Here there are many displays relating to the stones as well as excavated artefacts, and the
office; the digs arent particularly plush, but the capital of Drenthe, will be the first stop largest hunebed is located just outside its doors. Maps of all the sites in Drenthe are also avail-
theyre warm and comfortable, and breakfast on most peoples tour of the province. Its able; most are clumped around the villages of Klijndijk, Odoorn, Annen and Midlaren, which are
is included. a modern, working city with some surpris- strung out along N34, a picturesque road linking Emmen and Groningen
Albertha Hoeve (%35 47 37; www.alberthahoeve.nl; ingly good restaurants, a handful of so-so Its best to explore the hunebedden with your own transport; pick up a map from the Emmen
Vlagtwedderstraat 57; camp sites/d 12.50/47) Just outside museums, and a well-informed tourist office tourist office or Borgor Informatiecentrum and look out for the large brown signs showing a
the walls, Albertha is one of several small (%24 37 88; www.vvvdrenthe.nl; Marktstraat 8; h1-6pm pile of rocks while driving or biking. Bus 300 operates hourly between Emmen and Groningen,
family-run places that has homely rooms and Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) that can book stopping at Borger.
fields for camping. Snacks are also available. B&Bs in the town.
 Lonely Planet Publications
GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 254 D R E N T H E O r v e l t e www.lonelyplanet.com

ORVELTE 12.14pm, 4.14pm and 8.14pm Saturday and

%0593 Sunday).
A foundation governs the tiny village of
Orvelte, 17km south of Assen. Its goal, to EMMEN
preserve the feel of a 19th-century Drenthe %0591 / pop 108,200
community, is alive and well here, and visitors A modern city of industry, Emmen is a useful
are welcome to join them in the past for a day transportation centre for the hunebedden. The
from Easter to the end of October. tourist office (%64 17 92; www.vvvemmen.nl; Hoofdstraat
No cars are permitted (aside from those 22; h1-5.30pm Mon, 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm
of the residents) and owners are forbidden Sat) has a good range of bike maps for explor-
to alter the old buildings in uncharacteristic ing the hunebedden, and the pleasant staff can
ways. Residents mainly engage in traditional help with finding accommodation.
activities; theres the butcher, the baker The towns zoo, Noorder Dierenpark (%85 08
you get the idea. During summer, there are 50; www.zoo-emmen.nl; Hoofdstraat 18; adult/child 17/15;
lovely vegetable gardens growing near every h10am-5.30pm) is a short walk from the train
house. station. Its noted for its apes and African
The tourist office (%32 23 35; www.orvelte.net; animals displayed in a natural setting. Of
h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun Easter-Jun & Sep-Oct, daily Jul & course, few areas of the savanna have weather
Aug, closed Nov-Easter) has brochures and maps of like this.
the village, and can inform you about whats Emmen is at the end of the train line from
on when; it can also arrange B&B accommo- Zwolle (11.20, 55 minutes, every half-hour);
dation in one of the traditional houses (25 for information on buses between Emmen,
per person). Groningen and Borger, see the boxed text,
To get to Orvelte from Assen, take a train p253. The station has lockers and is 600m
to Beilen (3.20, eight minutes, every half- from the tourist office. Buses leave from in
hour) and change to bus 22 (16 minutes, front of the station. The station has a bicycle
every 30 minutes Monday to Friday, and shop (%61 37 31).

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - Do the right thing with our content.
 Lonely Planet Publications
255

Overijssel &
Gelderland
Although the forgotten provinces of Overijssel and Gelderland cant boast blockbuster

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

cities like Amsterdam, Rotterdam or Maastricht, they make up for it with reserves of natural
beauty forest, rivers, lakes, national parks and abundant history. Thats not to say that
there arent major attractions: the Hoge Veluwe National Park, containing the Krller-Mller
Museum (with probably the worlds finest Van Gogh collection), should be near the top
of any Dutch itinerary. Generally, though, the regions pleasures are small and concentrated,
adding up to a compelling whole. If youre looking to escape the Randstads hectic urban
sprawl, then you could do a lot worse than take time out here.

Zwolle, Deventer and Kampen, in Overijssel, are delightful, atmospheric towns, filled
with many inspiring examples of historical architecture; all three were key member towns
of the Hanseatic League. Then theres the Weerribben National Park, a remarkable area
of wetlands.

Nijmegen, in Gelderland, is an underrated destination. But with its waterfront culture,

excellent cafs and an annual march that now takes the form of a week-long party, its full
of bounce. On the other side of history, it was here and near Arnhem where attempts to
liberate the occupied Netherlands went horribly awry for the Allies in 1944; there are many
WWII memorials and locations to explore.

HIGHLIGHTS
Weerribben
Lose yourself in the amazing Hoge Veluwe National Park

National Park (p269)

Have an art attack at the Krller-Mller
Museum (p269)
Spook yourself in the otherworldly
ambience of the Weerribben (p256), Overi- Hoge Veluwe
National Park
jssels strange wetlands &
Krller-Mller
Museum
Have a fine old time in Nijmegen (p263),
with its busy waterways WWII Memorials
at Oosterbeek
Remember the past at Gelderlands war
Nijmegen
cemeteries and memorials (p267)
WWII Memorials
at Groesbeek

256 O V E R I J S S E L W e e r r i b b e n N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com O V E R I J S S E L W e e r r i b b e n N a t i o n a l Pa r k 257

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND 0

0
40 km
20 miles
As you ride along one of the isolated bike The parks visitors centre (%0561-47 72 72;
paths or row the channels, you might get h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) is in Os-

A7 Assen
A7
E22 Heerenveen the sense youre on another planet. A chief senzijl, a tiny village on the northern edge of
E22 Hindeloopen factor in creating this illusion is the sound the park. Pick up dozens of maps of different
A32 DRENTHE To Cloppenburg
of the Weerribben: as you move through the cycling and walking routes, as well as advice
(65km)
sea of reeds, youll hear the calls, clucks, coos on boat and canoe rental.
IJ

Lemmer
sse

and splashes of numerous birds, fish, frogs, To reach Ossenzijl, take bus 81 from Steen-
lm

Ossenzijl
Emmen To Meppen
otters and eels. wijk, a stop on the train line from Leeuwarden
ee

A6 Weerribben (2km)
National Park
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

NOORD E233

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

Giethoorn A37
HOLLAND 0 2 km
Hoorn
Enkhuisen Blokzijl
Meppel
WEERRIBBEN NATIONAL PARK 0 1 mi
Urk Vollenhove
Staphorst To Meppen Oldemarkt
Zwartsluis (2km)
Dedemsvaart
Kampen
Zwolle To Freren
N761
FLEVOLAND

Os
(23km) Paaslo

se






Lelystad

nz
ijl
A6 de

er
Nordhorn
Elburg Lin

slo
ot
IJssel OVERIJSSEL Ossenzijl
E232 Ootmarsum
AMSTERDAM Singraven Denekamp
A28 Park Visitors
Almere Almelo Centre/Ossenzijl
A50 Venebos
Hardewijk Oldenzaal t
oo
Hengelo A1 tsl
Deventer To Osnabrck ar Stee
Va

Enschede (67km) nwi jk-Ossenzijl Canal
Apeldoorn A1 A30 A35 Gronau
aal Diepenheim Klompenpierik
E35 A1 ka n
E30 Twente
A2
Amersfoort Hoge Veluwe
National Zutphen t
A30 Veluwezoon ar Woldakkers
Park va

Gr
National Park nk
Utrecht rli

ac
A50 uu

ht
A12 M

Bo
To Ede

t
Arnhem

kv

ar
Rotterdam E232 GELDERLAND

va
aa




(33km)

en
A348

rt
Lek Oosterbeek

kk
GERMANY

O
Rhenen A12
E25 E35 A18 Woldlakebos
A2 A325
Waal
Schut-en-Grafkampen
Nijmegen cht Diep
A15

a
Wiede

gr
Maas

en
Zaltbommel Bocholt Kalenberg

uv
He
To Oberhausen
A27 (84km)
Groesbeek

We
ter
rt
Den Bosch To Duisburg

vaa
NOORD

ing
(70km)
BRABANT

en
A77 Blankenham

Heer V Diez
A73

Wetering
Bird-watching
is 3500 hectares of marshy land. This entire
OVERIJSSEL Hut Scheerwolde

area was worked by peat and reed harvest- Nederland

ers, among the hardest imaginable jobs. The To Giethoorn

Overijssel means beyond the IJssel, after the long, water-filled stripes across the landscape (12km)

river forming much of the provinces west- are the result of peat removal: as one line of
ern border. The province is hilly in the east peat was dug, it was laid on the adjoining N333
near Germany and flat and soggy in the west land to dry. nto
cht
along the former coastline, now landlocked Reed harvesting was no easier, and still ene
Muggenbeet stst
We
by Flevolands Noordoostpolder. goes on; you can see huge piles at many
You might like to anchor yourself in De- points in the park. Generations of harvest- Baarlo
venter to explore Overijssel, though Zwolle is ers lived out here with little contact with the
the capital. Giethoorn in the north is pretty as outside world. Even now, their descendants rdie
p Va Giethoornse
de Meer

lsc
or he
well, but be aware of swollen summer crowds. live on some of the farms in the surrounding No
Trog
Tourist
countryside in Ossenzijl and Blokzijl. Weer- Office
Zuiderdiep
Eng
e
WEERRIBBEN NATIONAL PARK ribben is also an amazing natural landscape
N333 Blokzijl
A serene and occasionally eerie landscape and an important stop for migratory birds
of watery striations, Weerribben National Park in Europe.
 258 O V E R I J S S E L D e v e n t e r www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com O V E R I J S S E L D e v e n t e r 259

to Zwolle. The bus takes 25 minutes and runs Sights

every two hours on weekdays and just a few The Brink is the main square and Deventers THE HANSEATIC LEAGUE
times on weekends. commercial heart. The towns famous Waag, Although it was primarily composed of northern German cities such as Lbeck and Hamburg,
the 1528 weigh-house in the middle of the the Hanseatic League also included seven Dutch cities along the IJssel: Hasselt, Zwolle, Kam-
DEVENTER square, was restored in 2003. Look for the pen, Hattem, Deventer, Zutphen and Doesburg. The powerful trading community was initially
%0570 / pop 95,614 cauldron on the north side a gruesome and organised in the mid-13th century, its member towns quickly growing rich off the proceeds of
Deventer was already a bustling mercantile well-supported legend tells of a 16th-century importing and exporting goods including grain, ore, honey, textiles, timbers and flax. The league
port as far back as AD 800, and it maintained clerk boiled alive in it, after he was discovered was not a government as such, but it would defend its ships from attack and it entered into
its prosperous trading ties for centuries, evi- substituting cheap metals for precious ones in monopolistic trading agreements with other groups, such as the Swedes. The fact that the trad-
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

dence of which youll see everywhere in its the local money supply. ing community achieved its powerful trading position through such means as bribery, boycotts
sumptuously detailed old buildings. In fact, Theres a small museum (%69 37 80; admission and general fiscal ruthlessness shouldnt sound particularly unusual to business students today.
so rich is the detail that the WWII film A 3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat) inside the Waag, with League members did work hard to prevent war among their partners for the simple reason that
Bridge Too Far, which was essentially about historical displays and a selection of tradi- conflict was bad for business.
Arnhems role in the war, was filmed here tional costumery. Its ironic that the Leagues demise in the 15th century was mostly attributable to the Dutch.
(Arnhem, of course, having being levelled The Grote of Lebunuskerk (h1am-5pm Mon- Amsterdams traders recognised a good thing and essentially beat the League at its own game,
by the war). Sat; admission 2.50) is the citys main church. It out-muscling it in market after market.
stands on a site where other churches were
Information razed by flames and other catastrophes time
Library (%64 99 62; Brink 70; internet access per hr 3; and again, before the present Gothic structure climbing down the wall while hanging by stylish restaurant, next to the Lebunuskerk,
h11am-10.30pm Tue & Thu, 11am-5.30pm Wed & Fri, was built between 1450 and 1530. a sheet. really comes into its own in summer, when

11am-4pm Sat) Deventer is so well preserved that most the courtyard and alleyway, in the shadow
Post office (%67 63 58; Diepenveenseweg 1; h9am- streets will have something to see. On As- Activities of the old church, makes for a grand and
6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) senstraat and Polstraat there are wall carvings The banks of the IJssel river are a scenic place dramatic setting. The menu is classic French
Tourist office (%69 14 10; www.vvvdeventer.nl; and window decorations created over several for biking. Riding 36km north to Zwolle is a with modern twinges, and is typified by filets
Keizerstraat 22; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm centuries. Assenstraat 6779 is more contem- fine option, while a good 32km round trip of fish served with octopus pasta.
Sat) porary, while Walstraat 20 shows a woman follows the river north to Olst, where you can Volkshuis (%60 02 54; Kleine Overstraat 97a; din-
take a ferry across and return along the other ner 12-16; hlunch & dinner) Run by and sup-

DEVENTER 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
side to Deventer. You can do the same thing porting people with disabilities, Volkshuis
To Zwolle
going south to Zutphen, a 47km trip. uses its own produce to create simple food
A B C D
eg

(36km) with quality organic ingredients, including

r w
ve

Sleeping appealing vegetarian options such as chilli

re

Sta
kg

tion
in

swe
Hotel Gilde (%64 18 46; Nieuwstraat 41; s/d from 90/120) non carne.
Br

g Di
ep
en
1 ve
en
INFORMATION This charming building, once a 17th-century Caf de Heksenketel (%61 34 12; Brink 62; mains

se Library..................................1 B3
15
train we
station g Tourist Office......................2 C2 convent, has been restored to its former archi- 13; hlunch & dinner) The menu here offers typi-
Bin
Si
ng
el Stationspl SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
tectural glory. With all that weight of history cal Dutch restaurant fare, like schnitzel with
nen
sin
gel Grote of Lebunuskerk..........3 B2 on the trimmings and frills, you just know that fries and salad. Youll need to eat something
No 20 Walstraat..................4 C2
d ens
tr
Sm Ha No 67-79 Assenstraat...........5 B3
this is the swishest place in Deventer (despite solid to go with one of the beers from their
me
S ed nd the austerity of its former tenants). excellent selection.
Ba

en els Waag..................................6 C3
gi

2 Gr ka
jn

st
r te de
Hotel de Leeuw (%61 02 90; http://members.home Chez Antoinette (%61 66 30; Roggestraat 10-
en

Ve

p SLEEPING
str

em
rz

d
et

Ge .nl/deleeuw; Nieuwstraat 25; s/d from 71/85) This lovely 12; mains 16-22; hdinner Tue-Sun) The popular
Molenstr

Ni

Ko

Camping De Worp..............7 A3
et
eu

rte

slaa

Hotel De Leeuw...................8 B2
w

Bis

building with well-designed yet simple rooms, Portuguese and Latin-influenced food here
r

n
str

erst
sch

9 Hotel Gilde...........................9 B2
op

2
Keiz

dates back to 1645. Its on a popular shopping goes all out to impress, with local seafood,
str

Hotel Royal........................10 C2
str

8
Pa
op

pe Walsstr
street no more than 10 minutes from the heart beef and poultry stocks, and Iberian season-
ch

ns
t

4
O

tr Stromarkt
Houtmark

EATING
ss
nd

Bi
er

Kle

Caf de Heksenketel..........11 C3 of Deventer. The hotel has reduced rates for ings like saffron, chilli, tomatoes, garlic and
e
ng
de

ine
en

Ro Chez Antoinette................ 12 C2
La

Nieuwe 10
Lin

Poo
av

gge str zernenstr

'tKaArsenaal.......................... longer stays. olive oil.
Gr

Markt 13 B2
de

Bergerkerkpl
t

13 Ov Klein Brink 12
n

3 ers e 14 Volkshuis...........................14 C2 Other options:

r

t
5 raat
ast
As

7 16 Grote
Camping De Worp (%61 36 01; Worp 12; sites from Shopping
se

m
ns

Kerkhof Town Hall TRANSPORT

tr

Em

Po 1 6
Bus Stops...........................15 C1
lst
r 11
Passenger Ferry..................16 A3
11; hMay-Sep) Right across the IJssel from the centre The local speciality is Deventer koek, a mildly
of town, about two minutes north of the passenger ferry. spiced gingerbread made with honey. Its
r
lst

We
lle
Po

IJs
sel
Hotel Royal (%61 18 80; www.royal-deventer.nl; Brink widely available.
3 94; s/d 60/70) Basic but spotless rooms.
rlaan

g
ina
bru Pot
hoo Getting There & Around
Mr H F de Boe

fd
elm
W
ilh Eating Deventer sits at the junction of two train lines;
To Oosterkim To Amsterdam t Arsenaal (% 61 64 95; www.restaurantarsenaal.nl; service is good in all directions. There are
(500m) (105km)
Nieuwe Markt 33-34; dinner 13-29; hlunch & dinner) This lockers in the main concourse.


260 O V E R I J S S E L Z w o l l e Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com O V E R I J S S E L Z w o l l e 261

Destination Price Duration Frequency The Grote Kerk is grand, but it was grander ZWOLLE 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
() (min) (per hr) before the usual series of disasters knocked

To Leeuwarden
down the tower accursedly, its been struck A (90km) B C D
Amsterdam 14.70 75 1 (and destroyed) by lightning an astonishing INFORMATION SLEEPING straat
Kastanje

Ruysdaels
Ho
ATM............................................1 B3 Bilderberg Grand Hotel Wientjes.........6 B5
lte
Apeldoorn 3 12 2 three times. The 15th-century Sassenpoort, A28
ala
an nb
Tourist Office...............................
r oe
2 B4 City Hotel...........................................7 A3
rv
Arnhem 7.10 36 2 situated at the corner of Sassenstraat and ine
ke

Albert Cu
1 E232 r

tr
M we
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING
g
Enschede 9.30 43 2 Wilhelminasingel, is one of the remaining Grote Kerk...................................3 B4 Baiyok................................................8 D3
Sassenpoort.................................4 C5 De Librije............................................9 B3
Nijmegen 9.70 51 2 town gates.

ypstraat
tr

as Stedelijk Museum Zwolle.............5 A3 La Stalla...........................................10 A4
em
Zwolle 5.20 24 2 Ecodrome (%421 50 50; Willemsvaart 19; adult/child To Amersfoort bb Peppermill American Restaurant.......11 A3
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

Ho

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

(64km);
under 12 9.95/8.5o; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Wed, Amsterdam (107km)
ENTERTAINMENT
Ferd estr

t
The bus area is located to the right as you leave Sat & Sun Nov-Apr) is a science-based, interac- Van Ostad

raa
inan Odeon..............................................12 B4
d

rst
Bols

Rembran
tr Swingcaf De Docter........................13 B4
the train station. tive multimedia education centre housed in

ee
Burg

rm
Bu Dr

Ve
The bicycle shop is in the train station. futuristic-looking buildings. Well suited to rg
Ro
Van
Mie Ac
hte
ijb
ers
ing

dtlaan
ele r eve el
l tstr
There is parking around the towns periphery, travellers with kids in tow, its a 1km walk nw
eg Jantooro
ps tr rgr
ach

but the best place to park is the free lot on the turning right from the station. 2 t
west bank of the IJssel. To get there, take the The tourist office can help to organise canal Schut tevaerk ad
e

free passenger ferry. The voyage takes less tours.

Schut
than five minutes and operates most of the Zw t evae rh aven sst
r
Diezerk
Wa arte sie
day and night. The pier on the town side is Sleeping ter Friesw
As Stenen
ade

ijk
al Me Pijpbrug
near Vispoort. Accommodation is tight here. Try the tourist nno

end
Va
Hofvlietbrug n

oek
Thorbeckegra

offices booking service; there are some excel- Thorbeckegracht cht 8
Bad
huiswal

nek
Pelserbrugje
ZWOLLE lent B&Bs run by friendly locals, starting at
Vispoortenbrug
Diezerpoortenplas

Pan
Buitenkant 9
Pletterstr
%038 / 110,027 around 20 to 25. Waterstr

in
ple
Broerenkerkpl
Zwolle, the capital of Overijssel, is a compact Bilderberg Grand Hotel Wientjes (%425 42 54; 3 Diezerpoortenbrug

en
r
To Nie
de 7 uws
town that can easily occupy a day of explo- www.grandhotelwientjes.nl; Stationsweg 7; s from 93) This Me
Ro
11 tr Bitters
tr Wievers-
str H

tr
M er age

kstr
gildepl
ration longer in summer, when a seem- stately establishment is a grand, sumptuous lkm
arkt elkmar 1

ens

Broere
ez

al

Rogenstr
lst

Spigelstr
Di

nw
kt

Ker
r

Ste
r
ingly endless schedule of small festivals and business hotel, with all the usual facilities and Nieuwst

d
fere
5

Ma str

lan





nstr

en
Voo

ndje
Juf
the weekend market keep things bubbling. service to match. Creature comforts are a big rstr

ez
W
s-
Oss r
lst

t
In the 14th and 15th centuries, Zwolle gar- deal here, with deluxe and executive rooms at

oo
Kamper enm rstr oe
Grote Dieze

str

Gr
ark Sp

ijk
Poortbrug t 13 Kerkbrugje

per
Markt

kw
nered wealth as the main trading port for the top of the range. Onze Lieve
Oss Vrouwetoren Ou
thu
is p l
Te
r Pe l

Kam
enm de
Vis as
the Hanseatic League and became a cultural City Hotel (%421 81 82; www.hotelzwolle.com; Rode ark 3 m

str
t a rkt G

Eekwal

ck
Luttekestr
Ka

hoe
mp Sas

rlin
Grote Ni
centre of some repute. While those days are Torenplein 10-11; s/d 55/70) An unaffected, down- ers sen eu W

Vijf

he
tr Kerkpl str w olw

iec
Ka M ev Pelkwijkpark
long gone, you can still step back in time, to-earth place, well located with good, basic 4 lve 10 ar er Sc

W
2 k t str hu
rst

ur

tr
r na
courtesy of the moat and ancient fortifications rooms. As one of the few central options, its

str
Frat Praubstr
tr

ens

tr
s 12 m

eeg

ten
ke

dals
str

Pap

erst
Eek

ou

at
tte
that surround the town. worth phoning ahead. wa

Goudest

tra
Sch
g

men
l Bl nd

Lu
ijm t l a

als
Stadsgracht h

Sas
c en

el
Naturally, theres a tourist office (%0900- Nieuwe ar
sg r a z

W
Bloe

ing
kt e

sen
me
Havenbrug as ad tW

Jak
oo

m
in
Eating

str
1122375; www.vvvzwolle.nl; Grote Kerkplein 14; h1-5pm Koestr Gr

Kro

St
aw
ijk elm
Em m 4 ilh
Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) and a post office De Librije (%21 20 83; www.librije.com; Broerenkerkplein ijk
W
aw

Pot
(%421 78 21; Nieuwe Markt 1A; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 13; 3-course meals from 45; hlunch & dinner) With Em
m

gie

9am-2pm Sat). three Michelin stars (just one of two restau- Park r si ngel

te
Sassenpoortbrug
Eekhout
rants in the country so decorated), you dont Gr
oo

Bur
t Wez
Sights & Activities need us to tell you the grub scrubs up. As the 5 Par enland

rt

g
kw

oo

Van Karn ebeekstr

eg As str
erg

op
People from Zwolle say they know theyre name suggests, the experience takes place in-

Va
el se nb
nd

Ro
tte

n
Ro ng orp
ye n si Lu
home when they see the Onze Lieve Vrouwe- side the wonderful ambience of a 500-year-old ers
tr

weg
We
toren (also known as the Peperbus, or Pepper- monastery library. The food is contemporary ste To Train

Stations
rstr Station (200m); To Eureka
6
mill), the huge former church that dominates French with Dutch infusions. Ecodrome (1.2km) (500m)

the skyline as you approach town. Other options:

The Stedelijk Museum Zwolle (%421 46 50; www Baiyok (%22 98 82; www.baiyok.nl; Diezerpoortenplas 3; hdinner Tue-Sun) Classy North American cuisine, includ- and ample supplies of Hertog Jan, a great
.museumzwolle.nl; Melkmarkt 41; adult/child 4/2; h10am- mains from 12; hdinner Wed-Sun) Good Thai food, ing Mexican and Cajun. Brabant pilsener.
5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) has a fine collection of Zwolles only such restaurant. Eureka (%422 29 03; www.eureka-zwolle.nl; Assen-
items, including a wealth of Hanseatic mate- La Stalla (%421 25 83; Kamperstraat 7-9; mains from Entertainment dorperplein 9) This magical space is a commu-
rial. It also hosts about 25 special exhibitions 15; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, dinner Sun) Dutch take Swingcaf De Docter (%421 52 35; www.dedocter.nl; nity arts centre-cum-venue-cum-caf. People
a year, ranging from high-art painting retro- on Italian cuisine. Voorstraat 3) A great place, dark and musty, the of every age, disposition or species roam its
spectives to contemporary photography and Peppermill American Restaurant (%423 08 06; swingcaf hosts live rock bands a few nights creaky floors, and the mood is warm and
multimedia. www.thepeppermill.nl; Melkmarkt 56; mains 16-29; per week, and has inviting open frontage inclusive.
 262 O V E R I J S S E L K a m p e n Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E L D E R L A N D N i j m e g e n 263

Odeon (%428 82 80; www.schouwburg-odeon.nl; Blij- parklands are pretty and its historic centre is is an alternative. From the train station, walk
markt 25) This grand building is a multi-purpose
entertainment venue hosting everything from
one of the countrys best preserved, boast-
ing no less than 500 medieval monuments:
northwest along the river for 20 minutes. GELDERLAND
theatre and dance to live rock and electronica houses, gates and towers. Its difficult to get Getting There & Around The lush province of Gelderland features a
nights. lost in Kampen, as its small and laid out in a Trains make the run between Zwolle and genuine attraction in the form of Hoge Ve-
linear fashion, parallel to the IJssel. Kampen (2.80, 10 minutes, two per hour). luwe National Park, with its superb modern
Shopping Plan your day with the help of the tourist Theres a small phalanx of bus stands behind art museum and beautiful forestry. There
The market occupies most of the former Melk- office (%331 35 00; www.vvvkampen.nl; Oudestraat 151; the train station. are other, excellent cultural repositories in
markt, Oude Vismarkt and the star-shaped h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat), which can also Apeldoorn and Arnhem, and the latter of
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

centre in general on Friday and Saturday. Fish, organise private rooms (about 30). NORTHERN OVERIJSSEL course was the setting for Operation Market
fresh fruit and vegetables, clothes anything Before the Noordoostpolder was created, Garden, immortalised in the WWII actioner,
goes. Theres also cheap cheese and bread, a Sights & Activities the Northern Overijssel region was on the A Bridge Too Far.
great way to stock up for a picnic. Pelkwijk- The major sights lie along Oudestraat. Zuiderzee. Today the former coastal villages
park or the area just south of Kerkbrugje are The Nieuwe Toren is immediately obvious: are landlocked, but maintain their links to NIJMEGEN
good areas for this activity. its the 17th-century tower with the incred- the water through the spider web of canals %024 / pop 159,556
In summer, market day is often augmented ible lean. Theres a little statue of a cow here, that crisscross this marshy area. Its a difficult Primarily a trading and manufacturing town,
by alfresco music anything from blues to linked to a rather ludicrous old story (see the area to get around without a car or a bike and Nijmegen survived many invasions right up
Germanic oompah stylings. boxed text, below). a set of energetic legs, as buses are infrequent until WWII: the Roman Empire conquered
The Oude Raadhuis (Old Town Hall; %339 2999; and involve inconvenient connections. Still, it in AD 70, promptly burning it down, an
Getting There & Around Oudestraat 133) was surprise, surprise badly its worth the effort to explore as youll take ominous taste of things to come.
Zwolle is a transfer point for trains and has damaged by fire and rebuilt in 1543. in great scenery and feel a bit detached from In February 1944, as a marshalling point
good connections. The Bovenkerk (%331 6453; Koornmarkt 28) fea- the rest of the Netherlands. for German forces, Nijmegen was bombed
tures an organ with over 3000 pipes, while The region is home to Giethoorn (%0521), a heavily by the Americans; later that year, the
Destination Price Duration Frequency the Gotische Huis (Gothic House; Ousestraat 158) is a town with no streets, only canals, walking paths town was devastated by the Operation Market
() (min) (per hr) 15th-century merchants house thats worth and bike trails (inevitably its tagged the Dutch Garden fiasco (see p267).
a look, not least for its housing of the Stedelijk Venice) contrary to most Dutch geography, The postwar years have seen many re-
Deventer 5.20 24 2 Museum (admission 3; h11am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Giethoorn is built on water crossed by a few bits building schemes of varying success, but
Groningen 15.10 60 2 Tue-Sat, plus 1-5pm Sun Jun-Sep) and a collection of of land, and farmers even used to move their Nijmegen has always bounced back, for it has
Leeuwarden 13.70 60 2 local, historical relics. cows around in rowboats filled with hay. This
Two 15th-century city gates survive along is a sentimental place for the Dutch as it was the
Local buses leave from the right as you exit the gorgeous park on Kampens west side. setting for Fanfare, a popular, funny 1958 film ANIMAL ATTRACTION
the station. Intercity services are 100m further about the local folk, which was one of the first There is a surfeit of zoological parks in
over in the same direction. Sleeping films to dissect the Dutch psyche. Gelderland and near the borders of neigh-
The bicycle shop is to the left of the station. The town has but two places to lay your hat, The entire area is a joy to pedal through. bouring provinces.
the Hotel Van Dijk (%331 49 25; fax 331 65 08; IJsselkade At any time there are countless opportunities Harderwijks aquatic megapark, the Dol-
KAMPEN 30-3; r from 60) and the Hotel-Restaurant t Haasje for boat rides, although joining a cow will be finarium (%0341-46 74 67; www.dolfinarium
%038 / pop 48,964 (%331 38 26; Flevoweg 90). Both, naturally, are tougher these days: recently, Giethoorn has .nl; Strandboulevard Oost 1, Hardewijk; adult/child
Picturesque Kampen, another lovely Hanseatic often full. been discovered in a big way, appearing in 23/19.50; h10am-5pm, 10am-6pm Jul & Aug),
city, is a perfect day trip: 15km west of Zwolle, Camping Seveningen (%331 48 91; Frieseweg 7; camp summer to be populated entirely by camper features its namesake alongside stingrays,
about 20 minutes by bicycle. Its surrounding sites 11; hApr-Oct), on a pretty waterside location, vans along the ample canalside space. seals and other aquatic life.
Giethoorns tourist office (%0900-5674637; www Apeldoorns Apenheul (%055-357 57 57;
.vvvgiethoorn.nl; Beulakerweg 114A; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, www.apenheul.nl; JC Wilslaan 21-31; adult/child
THE GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENERUP THE TOWER 9am-5pm Sun May-Sep; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) is on the 15/12; h 9.30am-5pm, to 6pm Jul & Aug) is
Once upon a time, a local farmer mistook moss growing atop Nieuwe Toren for grass and won- main road and will sort your accommodation home to primates that will have the nerve
dered aloud if he could get his cows up there to graze. So what he did was, he hoisted one of his there are scores of camping grounds, rooms to come and sit on your shoulder if you
cows up to the top via a dodgy system of pulleys and ropes. The cheering townspeople below and cabins for rent. The town itself, five min- have no food, they will attempt to snatch
saw the cows tongue protruding from its mouth and assumed it was indeed having a good utes away, has banks and other services. anything small and shiny. Make sure your
old feed. And there was much rejoicing. Unfortunately, the poor animal was actually choking to Bus 70 serves Giethoorn on its route be- Prince Albert is well hidden.
death, a ridiculous episode that made Kampen the butt of Dutch jokes for many, many years. tween Steenwijk (18 minutes) and Zwolle Arnhems Burgers Zoo (% 442 45 34;
Credit, though, to the town: it has turned stupidity into a virtue, and these days, on a summers (one hour). Service is hourly on weekdays www.burgerszoo.nl; Antoon van Hooffplein 1;
morning in July, the incident is celebrated as Kampen Cow Day, with the ceremonial hoisting and shocking on weekends. adult/child 16/14; h9am-7pm or sunset) tries
of a stuffed cow up the tower, accompanied by live music, where the bovine symbol remains Its difficult to get around Giethoorn with- to recreate the natural environments of its
for weeks. out a boat, a bike or a combination thereof. many animals. The creatures mostly dont
The dates for Cow Day vary, so contact the tourist office for confirmation. A few of the canalside service stations run buy this ruse, given the climate.
bike-hire services.
 264 G E L D E R L A N D N i j m e g e n www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com G E L D E R L A N D N i j m e g e n 265

NIJMEGEN 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
19th-century wooden contraptions to hand- Sleeping
propelled bikes, to an entire room devoted St Anna B&B (%350 18 08; www.sintanna.nl; St Annastraat
A B C D to penny-farthings, plus more modern and 208; s/d from 58/70) Perhaps Nijmegens most
INFORMATION SLEEPING DRINKING sane machines. Its a must-see for anyone charming accommodation; St Annas own-
Library............................................1 C3 Hotel Apollo.................................10 B3 De Blauwe Hand..........................(see 8)
Post Office.....................................2 C3 Hotel Atlanta................................11 C3 De Hemel.....................................(see 4)
whos marvelled at the remarkable Dutch af- ers also run a travel agency specialising in
1 Tourist Office.................................3 B4 Hotel Courage.............................(see 6) finity with two-wheelers. New Zealand, which explains the sheep motif.
Mercure Nijmegen Centre............12 A4 ENTERTAINMENT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Concertgebouw de Vereeniging...15 B4
A few important bits of the old town either It also explains why one of the rooms has
Commanderie van St Jan................4 C2 EATING Lux Filmcentrum..........................16 C3 survived the war or have been reconstructed. pictures of kiwi fruit on the walls and on the

Museum Het Valkhof.....................5 C3 Circus...........................................13 C3 Schouwburg.................................17 B3
Nationaal Fietsmuseum Velorama..6 C2 De Schat......................................14 C2 The Waag (weigh-house) on Grote Markt bedding. There are numerous comforts here
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

Sint Nicolaaskapel..........................7 C3 De Waagh...................................(see 9) TRANSPORT was built in 1612 and has a lovely interior as well as a wonderfully warm welcome.
Sint Stevenskerk.............................8 B3 Boat Tours....................................18 C2
Waag.............................................9 C3 (see p266), while Sint Stevenskerk (%360 47 10; Hotel Atlanta (%360 30 00; www.atlanta-hotel.nl;
To Arnhem
(17km) tower climb 1; h1-4pm Sat & Sun) is the large 14th- Grote Markt 38-40; s/d 57.50/83.50) This place is a
aa
l century church. great-value option with comfy room. Its also
Waal
W Commanderie van St Jan, near Grote Markt on home to a popular caf on the Grote Markt.

Waa

2 Franseplaats, was a 12th-century hospital for Beware, though the central location gets

lbru
W
Be aa the knights of St John. It has a very different quite noisy at night.

g
ur lha Benedenstad
tse
ve
W
eg n Oude H
aven
Waalk
ade 14 use today: its a brewery (p266). oHotel Courage (%360 49 70; www.hotel
Lage Markt 18 Vluchth
Waalk
aven Ooyse Schependom Even allowing for the usual air of frivol- courage.nl; Waalkade 108-112; s/d from 75/98) Restored
Nonnenst r ade 6
4 ity commonly associated with such watery old-style hotel with a superb location right on
r

S
Grotest

Lange str mids

Hezelst tr
zones, strolling along the Waalkade, Nijmeg- the waterfront in the shadow of the Waal-
n
Ganze

r 8
slaan 7
rstad 9

Hezelstr 11 ens waterfront, is delightful especially if brug plus a nice restaurant and bar and very
Kronenburger s in

Voo Valkhof 5
Bur
cht
youre into boats and shipping. This stretch cosy rooms. Choose from tiered pricing
Park

Dod Grote str

't
r

den Markt
erst

daal M
of river, Europes busiest, sees a large barge packages: more cash for river views, less for
weg

ee
str

16 Hunnerpark rtj
Bro

Kronen-
rgse

tr

13 e
3 burger-
Hertogs

or ferry plying past Nijmegen every few min- park views.

laan

Keizer
str

enbu

park Mari
gel

Traiannuspl
er

nbu 1
nhoff

em

rg
utes. Sometimes its busier than the traffic Mercure Nijmegen Centre (%323 88 88; www
Mari
Blo

ge
l
tr

Mr Fran
Ziek

sin on the road. Walk or ride a bike along the .accorhotels.com; Stationsplein 29; r from 85; in)
ns
Kraye

train
Na

ius
ole

erst

station
nis
ssa

Tunnelweg lstr Ca Waalbrug for breath-stealing sunset views of Not bad, but you know, its a large chain
r

ckenstr

Sint
usin

Tunnelweg Wa renstr 2
e
10 Weld the old town, the water and the boats chug- hotel aimed at business travellers, so design
gel

17 Van
rst
me

Van Scha el
eck Math ing ging below. features are not a high priority. Having said
Ha

3
singel on-
Keizer njes
Karelpl Ora el
Va sing Cruises on the Waal depart from the water- that, rooms are super comfortable, well-
D
laan

nO
aa

12 lde veld Be
l

Bijle
r

se

rg
roekst

nba l
front along Waalkade. Some go all the way appointed (aesthetically bland, of course) and
ginne

15 inge
W

rne en

onts
eg

velt
str Pyrm Da
iemerb

eck lse to Rotterdam. There are various companies; spotlessly clean.

Konin

Pr

ld
Wa w
ins

eg
4 make inquiries at the tourist office for best Other options:
Van D

Be
tr
ns
str s

g
rn
Pontanu

e
ae
str

sew
ha

Wolfskuil
results. Camping Maikenshof (%684 16 51; Oude Kleefs-
Sp

af
Sint Anna

rd Str

a
ro

Gr
e

Altrade
baan 134; campsites from 12) Take bus 6 from the train
sb
ee

To St Anna B&B

Festivals & Events

se

(500m);
Bottendaal station east for 6km (direction: Beek) to the last stop in
W

Doornroosje To Camping
eg

(1km) Maikenshof (2km)

Nijmegens big event is the Internationale Berg en Dal.
Wandelvierdaagse (www.4daagse.nl), a four-day, Hotel Apollo (%322 35 94; www.apollo-hotel
history on its side: theres a rivalry between Sights & Activities 120km- to 200km-long march held in mid- -nijmegen.nl; Hamerstraat 14; s/d 75/98) Basic, friendly
it and Maastricht for the title of oldest city The Museum het Valkhof (%360 88 05; www.museum July every year. It has a long history: the first place; spartan but comfortable rooms.
in the Netherlands, although these days its hetvalkhof.nl; Kelfkensbos 59; adult/child 6/3; h10am- one was held in 1909. Thousands walk it, even
archaeologically accepted that Nijmegen is 5pm Tue-Fri; 2-5pm Sat & Sun) is housed in a striking though the shortest or easiest route is a mini- Eating
older. building, the heaving, 16-sided St Nicolaas- mum of 30km a day. Many suffer debilitating Circus (%360 66 56; www.restauranthetcircus.nl; Kelfkens-
Nijmegen also has a bustling waterfront kapel originally a replica of Charlemagnes blisters, while thousands more endure de- bos 21; mains 14-26; hdinner) This is a more stylish
culture on the Waal, Western Europes busiest palace at Aachen that has been remodelled bilitating hangovers, as the Wandelvierdaagse restaurant than its free-wheeling moniker
expanse of river. and reworked in a multitude of styles (depend- is the citys excuse for a week-long party. implies no tiger or elephant on the menu,
ing on who held power in Nijmegen) during Competitors set off in a different direction although it is meaty Dutch fare, even if that
Information its 950-year life-span. The museums collec- (north, south, east, west) each day, and there most un-Dutch of animals, the kangaroo,
Library (%327 49 11; Marinburg 29; internet per hr tions cover regional history and art and theres are varying route classifications according to sometimes makes a cameo appearance.
4; h2-6pm Mon-Wed, 2-8pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) a first-rate section of Roman artefacts. gender and age. De Schat (%322 40 60; www.deschat.nl; Waalkade 1;
Post office (%323 90 92; Van Schevichavenstraat 1; The Nationaal Fietsmuseum Velorama (National Note: Two walkers died on the first day of hlunch & dinner) A nice place along the Waal-
h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Cycling Museum; %322 58 51; www.velorama.nl; Waalkade the 2006 event, causing the Wandelvierdaagse kade, with white-linen tables heaving with
Tourist office (%0900-1122344; www.vvvnijmegen.nl; 107; adult/child 4.60/2.80; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am- to be cancelled. The future of the event is fresh seafood in Dutch variations. Theres a
Keizer Karelplein 2; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- 5pm Sun & public holidays) is a small but interesting now very much in flux. Check the website great fruits-de-mer (seafood) selection, too,
5pm Sat) museum with over 250 bikes: everything from for updates. eminently fitting for the location.
 266 G E L D E R L A N D A r n h e m www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
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. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com G E L D E R L A N D A r o u n d A r n h e m 267

De Waagh (%323 07 57; www.de-waagh.nl; Grote Getting There & Around

Markt 26; hlunch & dinner) This is an atmospheric The train station is large and modern with A BRIDGE TOO FAR: OPERATION MARKET GARDEN
place in which to eat, being as it is the towns many services. Lockers are near the ticket The battle they called Operation Market Garden was devised by British General Bernard Mont-
1612 former weigh-house. The interior has windows. gomery to end WWII in Europe by Christmas. Despite advisers warning that the entire operation
been restored to a rich, sumptuous Burgun- was likely to fail, Montgomery pushed on. He had often groused that the Americans under General
dian ideal. The foods perhaps not as thrilling, Destination Price Duration Frequency George Patton were getting all the headlines in their charge across France. The plan was for British
although it is hearty: trip out on the sea bream () (min) (per hr) forces in Belgium to make a huge push along a narrow corridor to Arnhem in the Netherlands,
with acid cabbage. where they would cut off large numbers of German troops from being able to return to Germany,
Amsterdam 16.20 90 2 thereby allowing the British to dash east to Berlin and end the war.
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

Drinking Arnhem 4.60 12 5 Everything went wrong. The British paratroops were only given two days rations and the
De Blauwe Hand (Blue Hand; %360 61 67; Achter de Den Bosch 8.00 30 4 forces from the south had to cross 14 bridges, all of which had to remain traversable and lightly
Hoofdwacht 3) The best bar in Nijmegen is also defended for the plan to work. The southern forces encountered some of the German armys
its oldest, an ancient survivor that derives Regional and local buses depart from the area most hardened troops and the bridges werent all completely intact. This, in effect, stranded the
its name from its 17th-century customers: in front of the station. Arnhem paratroops. They held out there and in neighbouring Oosterbeek for eight days without
workers at a nearby dye shop. The Blue Hand The bicycle shop is underground in front food or reinforcements. The survivors, a mere 2163, retreated under darkness. Over 17,000 other
is the perfect little Dutch bar, friendly and of the station. British troops were killed.
inviting, as evidenced by its motto: A frosty The results of the debacle were devastating for the Dutch: Arnhem and other towns were
mug of rich beer gives you warmth, joy and ARNHEM levelled and hundreds of civilians killed. The Dutch resistance, thinking that liberation was at
sweet pleasure. %026 / pop 142,162 hand, came out of hiding to fight the Germans. But without the anticipated Allied forces sup-
De Hemel (Heaven; %360 61 67; www.brouwerijde With its centre all but levelled during WWII, porting them, hundreds were captured and killed.
hemel.nl; Franseplaats 1; h12-8pm Tue-Sun) The building Arnhem today is a nondescript, though pros- Finally Montgomery abandoned the country. The winter of 194445 came to be known as the
housing this brewery and distillery, the ancient perous township with several museums and winter of hunger, with starvation rife as no food could be imported from Allied-held Belgium.
Commanderie van St Jan (p265), is worth a attractions around its northern outskirts. Plus Most of the Netherlands was still occupied when the war ended in Europe in May 1945.
visit on its own. But the goods also pass muster. its a desirable launch pad for Hoge Veluwe
Of the beers, theres Luna, a 5% lager; Helse National Park. Another fact from the war
Engel (Hells Angels), weighing in at a whop- years: Audrey Hepburn attended Arnhem Sleeping Destination Price Duration Frequency
ping 8%; and Nieuw Ligt, which is anything Conservatory from 1939 to 1945. Hotel Parkzicht (%442 06 98; Apeldoornsestraat 16; () (min) (per hr)
but, being heavy in taste, body and colour The tourist office (%370 02 26; www.vvvarnhem s/d from 37.50/70) This convenient place is 10
itll knock you sideways with its 10% alcohol .nl; Willemsplein 8; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) is a minutes downhill from the station and Amsterdam 13.80 70 2
quotient. Of the liqueurs, try the beer brandy 10-minute walk east of the train station. has basic, decent rooms including triples Deventer 7.10 36 2
and the beer gin (both 40%), and the cinnamon and quads. Its okay to bring your pets to Nijmegen 3.60 12 5
liqueur (20%). Theres also beer vinegar, beer Sights & Activities this laidback place (dogs are welcome in the
mustard, beer bread and beer chocolate, and all Southeast of the Korenmarkt, is the John Frost- Hoge Veluwe, but not necessarily at every The bicycle shop is to the right as you exit
of this and more is available in their shop. brug, a replica of the infamous bridge too far hotel). the station.
(opposite). Its not much to look at, but its Hotel Old Dutch (%442 07 92; www.old-dutch.nl;
Entertainment symbolic value is immense. Stationsplein 8; s/d from 73.50/97) Conveniently lo- AROUND ARNHEM
CLASSICAL MUSIC The Museum voor Moderne Kunst (%351 24 31; cated for transport connections, its across the WWII Cemeteries
Nijmegen boasts two large, formal perform- www.mmkarnhem.nl; Utrechtseweg 87; 6; h10am-5pm road from the main train station with com- OOSTERBEEK
ance venues. Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) has a commanding spot fortable, pretty rooms and a homey, friendly An old suburb 5km west of Arnhem, Ooster-
Concertgebouw de Vereeniging (Oranjesingel 11A; overlooking the Rijn (Rhine), and its modern feel. In fact, its the best all-round option beek was the scene of heavy combat during
%schedule & ticket info, both venues 322 11 00) art collection represents Arnhems determina- within walking distance of Arnhems com- Operation Market Garden.
Schouwburg (Keizer Karelplein 32) tion to look forward. Most of the collection is mercial centre. The Airborne Museum Hartenstein (%333 77 10;
by Dutch artists and the progressive curato- Stayokay Arnhem (%442 01 14; www.stayokay www.airbornemuseum.org; Utrechtsweg 232; adult/child &
LIVE MUSIC rial policy is that at least half of the works on .com/arnhem; Diepenbrocklaan 27; d 22.50) Incon- veteran 4.80/3.80; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat, 12-5pm Sun) is
Doornroosje (%355 98 87; www.doornroosje.nl; Groene- display at any time must be by women. venient to the town centre, at 2km north inside a mansion used by the British as HQ
woudseweg 322) Long-running, eclectic multi- Heres a change of pace: the Nederlands Open- of town, but perfectly situated for seeing during the battle. Take trolleybus 1 serving
purpose venue, with live comedy and music luchtmuseum (%357 61 11; www.openluchtmuseum.nl; a lot of the sights on Arnhems outskirts, both Oosterbeek and Arnhem train stations.
ranging from electronica and house to indie- Schelmseweg 89; adult/child 12.90/9; h10am-5pm Apr- especially by bike. Take bus 3 (direction: The Oosterbeek War Cemetery is 200m north-
rock and world music. Its got its own gym, Oct) is an open-air museum of Dutch heritage Alteveer) and get off at Rijnstate Ziekenhuis east of Oosterbeek train station (follow the
with a 10% discount on membership just for with a collection of buildings and artefacts (hospital). signs). Over 1700 Allied (mostly British and
flashing their monthly guide. from all provinces, everything from farm- Free Polish) troops are buried here.
houses and old trams to working windmills. Getting There & Around The tourist offices in Nijmegen and Arn-
CINEMA Volunteers in authentic costume demonstrate Buses and public transport leave from in front hem can both provide more specific infor-
Lux Filmcentrum (%381 68 55; www.lux-nijmegen.nl; traditional skills including weaving, smithing of the station, although the renovation spo- mation on how to visit any or all of these
Marinbrug 38-39; admission 6-7, 5-film card 25) and farming. radically affects this. monuments to the Allied war fallen.


268 G E L D E R L A N D A r n h e m & H o g e Ve l u w e N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E L D E R L A N D H o g e Ve l u w e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 269

ARNHEM & HOGE VELUWE NATIONAL PARK 0

0 2 mi
4 km
GROESBEEK when a deer has a bad day and a crow has a
The small town of Groesbeek, just inside good day.

To
A B C 12 D Elburg
Gelderlands southern border, 10km south Roads through the park are limited. There
(24km)
of Nijmegen, is home to the National Libera- are many bike paths and 42km of hiking trails,

Ap
tion Museum 194445 (%397 44 04; www.bevrijdings with three routes signposted. The most in-

e ld
Bouriciusstr Sw

oo
Nieuw-Milligen 15
Laneerts Hoog Soeren

rns
das de museum.nl; Wylerbaan 4; adult/child 8/4; h10am-5pm teresting area is the Wildbaan, south of the

est
1 Amsterd
amse Weg tr
s A50

r
Jansbuitensingel
Jansbinnensingel
ns tr Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun). The museum aims to show Krller-Mller Museum. At the north edge,
Stee
1 Velperpl train
the causes, events and outcomes of the Al- Jachthuis St Hubert is the baronial hunting lodge

train Willemspl station
14

Ve
station
lied efforts leading to the liberation of the that Anton had built. Named after the patron

Ve

lpe
tr APELDOORN
Doelens
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

Wezenstr

OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

lpe

rbu
tr Netherlands. Using interactive displays and saint of hunting (but not the hunted), you can
Coe

rbin
ers

ite
h o rnstr Korenmarkt
Ruit elst
r

nsin
historical artefacts, visitors can relive the tour its woodsy interior.
Nieuwepl

nen
Oud Ket

g
sin
e Kra

el
r
anKootwijk Rijnst strategic decisions and tactical actions of Cars are not admitted after 8pm.

gel
Roermondspl Klein A1 the various campaigns and battle locations.

Euse
E30
W
eO
ord
ren
str The ambitious museum also attempts to define Krller-Mller Museum

bius
e

2 ee Bro
Nelson
rd
jes
str
Kerkpl
Turfst Airbornepl
for younger visitors what the ideals of democ- About 10km into the park (an hour by cycle)
Mandela r Walburgstr
Brug Tr racy, freedom and human rights mean, and and among the best museums in the land, the

gel
an Lieren

eg
s
why people die fighting to protect them. Krller-Mller Museum (%0318-59 12 41; www.kmm.nl;
sew
Rij

sin
Beekbergen
n
iten
eeg Oosterhuizen
Nearby, the Groesbeek Canadian War Cemetery Houtkampweg 6; adult/child 12/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Nijm

0 300 m
Eusebiuspl Bu
0 0.2 mi is a mausoleum dedicated to the soldiers who has works by Picasso, Gris, Renoir, Sisley and
fell here during Operation Market Garden. Of Manet. Good enough, but its the Van Gogh

N304 the 2610 Commonwealth soldiers commemor- collection that elevates it to world class, a
INFORMATION
Harskamp
Tourist Office...............................1 B1
ated, 2331 are Canadian. There is a memorial stunning collection of 278 of the artists work
N310 e W
eg Visitor Centre...............................2 B4 listing by name 1000 soldiers whose graves that rivals the collection in the eponymous
3 orns la an
Apeld rik 5 whereabouts are unknown. Amsterdam museum.
nd SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
N304 6 He
ns eg Airborne Museum Hartenstein.....3 B6 In the tiny township of Jonkerbos (a short Theres also a sculpture garden featuring
Pri pw 19 Hoenderloo Loenen
am Burgers Zoo................................4 C5
outk distance from Nijmegen), Jonkerbos War Cem- works by Rodin, Moore and more.
H Hoenderloo entrance....................5 B3
Jachthuis St Hubert......................6 B3 etery is the final resting place of mainly British

11
Krller-Mller Museum................7 B4
Otterlo Houtkampw
17
eg Museum voor Moderne Kunst.....8 C6 servicemen. Getting There & Around
2
7
Nederlands Openluchtmuseum....9
Oosterbeek War Cemetery........10
C5
B6
There is a bus service from the train sta-
Otterlo entrance........................11 A3 HOGE VELUWE NATIONAL PARK tions in Arnhem and Apeldoorn. From Arn-
Wil

Paleis Het Loo............................12 C1 This park (% 0318-59 10 41; www.hogeveluwe.nl; hem, take bus 2 (direction: Deelevy OC) to
dba

Hoge Veluwe
Schaarsbergen entrance.............13 B5
anw

National Park
adult/child 6/3, park & museum 12/6; h 9am-6pm the Schaarsbergen entrance and on to the
eg

4 Wildbaan
SLEEPING
Nov-Mar, 8am-8pm Apr, 8am-9pm May & Aug, 8am-10pm Krller-Mller Museum. The first bus leaves

N304 Hotel Old Dutch.........................14 B1
N310 Pension Parkzicht........................15 B1 Jun & Jul, 9am-8pm Sep, 9am-7pm Oct), the largest in at 10.10am (April to October) and there are
Stayokay Arnhem......................16 C5
Kem

the Netherlands, would be a fantastic place three more through the day (one per hour in
Leipzigerweg
per

eg TRANSPORT to visit for its marshlands, forests and sand July and August). From Apeldoorn, bus 110
b

rw
erg

ste
eem White Bikes................................17 B4
w

R dunes alone, but its brilliant museum makes leaves the station every hour from 8.42am
eg

White Bikes................................18 B5
White Bikes................................19 B3 it unmissable. to 4.42pm.
The park was purchased by Anton and There is car parking at the visitors centre,
18 N311
N224 Koningsweg 13
Rijzenburg A50 Helene Krller-Mller, a wealthy German- museum and lodge. By bike, the park is eas-
Schaarsbergen Dutch couple, in 1914. He wanted hunting ily reached from any direction. You can also
5 grounds, she wanted a museum site. They wait and use a free white bicycle, available at
A12 A50
E35
To Utrecht
A12 got both. It was given to the state in 1930, the entrance.
(46km)
9 and in 1938 a museum opened for Helenes
N224 4
16
Schelmse
weg
Rheden
remarkable art collection. A visit to the park APELDOORN
can fill an entire day, and even if you dont The rather featureless town of Apeldoorn
10
Velp
have a bike, you can borrow one of the parks has one class attraction: the Paleis het Loo
A348
A50
Oosterbeek
3 ARNHEM hundreds of famous, free white bicycles. (%055-577 24 00; www.paleishetloo.nl; Koninklijk Park
l

See Enlargement
IJsse

Heelsum N225 The ticket booths at each of the three en- 1; adult/child 9/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), built in
Renkum
8 trances at Hoenderloo, Otterlo and Schaars- 1685 for William III; Queen Wilhelmina
6 Doorwerth E35 bergen have basic information and highly lived here until 1962. Now its a magnifi-
A12
To Duisburg
useful park maps (3.50). In the heart of the cent museum celebrating the history of the
Rijn
(97km) park, the main visitors centre is an attraction royal House of Oranje-Nassau. View the
Heteren To Eindhoven To Nijmegen A325 N325 Westervoort N336
itself. It has displays on the flora and fauna, royal bedchambers, regal paintings, royal
Malburgen
(72km) (18km)
including one showing the gruesome results furniture, silverware, the lavish dining room
 Lonely Planet Publications
270 G E L D E R L A N D E l b u r g www.lonelyplanet.com

dating from 1686, the vintage car fleet, the in good weather, where you can help yourself
immense gardens with their maze of hedge- to cheap snacks or local crafts.
rows and pathways Visit the tourist office (%68 15 20; www.vvvelburg
.nl; Ledige Stede 31; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, 10am-
ELBURG 4pm Sat May-Aug) for more information.
%0525 / pop 22,022 Theres just one hotel, the Elburg (%68 38 77;
Gorgeous Elburg has a sculpted, cobbled www.hotelelburg.nl; Smedestraat 5-7; s/d 58.50/89.50).
16th-century splendour. Compact and grid-
like, its centre can be easily explored on foot. Getting There & Around
OVERIJSSEL & GELDERLAND

One highlight is the old harbour. Continue Take bus 100, 200, 184 or 144 from Zwolle
all the way down Jufferenstraat, through the train station on any weekday. Bus 100 is the
old gate at the end of Vischpoortstraat and only one that runs on weekends. The serv-
into the harbour itself, where a small flotilla ice runs every 30 minutes, and will deposit
of pleasure and fishing boats can take you on you about 100 metres from the beginning of
a boat tour. Theres also an enjoyable market Jufferenstraat, the main drag.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
 Lonely Planet Publications
271

Noord Brabant &

Limburg
The Dutch southeast belies most clichs about the Netherlands: tulips, windmills and dykes
are scarce. Noord Brabant is primarily a land of agriculture and industry peppered with a few
pleasant towns, including Den Bosch. Its also home to the Netherlands most popular tourist
draw, De Efteling theme park, and the biggest street fair in Benelux, the Tilburgse Kermis.

Meanwhile, Limburg is home to beautiful Maastricht, contender for the title of Finest
Dutch City, as well as drum roll hills. It also hosts Europes biggest art sale, the European
Fine Art Foundation show.

Neither province has its roots in the asceticism of the north, a fact made obvious during
carnaval, when the streets fill with fireworks, bands and impromptu parties. And both prov-
inces proximity to Belgium and all those indulgent Catholic monasteries most of which
doubled as excellent microbreweries mean there are many chances to imbibe.

NOORD BRABANT
In fact, the Dutch call the southeastern lifestyle bourgondisch: like the epicurean

& LIMBURG
inhabitants of Burgundy in France, people in these parts love to eat and drink heartily.

HIGHLIGHTS

Thrill to the rarefied vibe in Maastricht Den Bosch

(p278), a world apart from the north. Breda

Scare yourself silly in the tunnels at Sint

Eindhoven
Pietersberg (p280).
Take it easy in laid-back Den Bosch (p272).
Admire European modern art at Eindhovens
Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum (p274).
Do the day-trip thing in lovely Breda (p275).
Maastricht
&
Sint Pietersberg
Tunnels

272 N O O R D B R A B A N T D e n B o s c h ( s - H e r t o g e n b o s c h ) www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D B R A B A N T D e n B o s c h ( s - H e r t o g e n b o s c h ) 273

NOORD BRABANT & LIMBURG 0

0
30 km
20 miles
Information Take the opportunity to climb the 73m
E19 To Amsterdam A28 To Zwolle To Apeldoorn
Bosch Medicentrum (%699 20 00; Nieuwstraat 34) tower (admission 3.50), with its carillon and great
Den Haag
(The Hague)
(30km)
Utrecht (90km) A30 (12km)
Regional hospital. views.
A12
Nieuwegein
A12 A50 GELDERLAND Library (%612 30 33; Hinthamerstraat 72; internet per The Stadhuis (town hall) was given its clas-
Monster
Hoek van
Oudewater Arnhem hr 3; hnoon-4pm Mon, Tue-Sat 11am-8pm) sical baroque appearance in 1670. Theres a
E25 Lek
Holland Post office (Kerkstraat 67; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, statue of Hieronymus Bosch at the front of
E25 E35
ROTTERDAM A325 9am-2pm Sat) the building.
Waal
A15
A2
Woudrichem
Tourist office (%09001122334; www.regio-vvv.nl; The Noordbrabants Museum (%687 78 77; www
ZUID
HOLLAND
A15 Maas Markt 77; h1-6pm Mon, 9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am- .noordbrabantsmuseum.nl; Verwersstraat 41; adult/child
Zaltbommel Nijmegen
Dordrecht 5pm Sat) 6.50/3.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat), in the
To
A27 Oss Oberhausen 18th-century former governors residence,
A29 A16 A50 (59km)
E19 E311
A59
Cuijk
Sights & Activities features a sculpture garden and exhibits about
A4
Willemstad Den Bosch
A77 The main attraction is Sint Janskathedraal Brabant life and art, including drawings and
A261
A59 To Duisburg
(47km)
(%613 03 14; www.sint-jan.nl; Choorstraat 1; admission other work by Bosch.
Breda A73
A17 free; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun), one of Boat tours leave from the canal by Sint Janss-
A2 Overloon
To Middelburg
Roosendaal E312 Tilburg the finest churches in the Netherlands. It took ingel. Check the tourist office for times.
Venray
(32km)
Zundert
A58 E25 from 1336 to 1550 to complete, and theres
Bergen
op Zoom
NOORD
Helmond
To
an interesting contrast between the red-brick Sleeping
E312 BRABANT Eindhoven Duisburg
(38km)
tower and the ornate stone buttresses. The Hotel Terminus (%613 06 66; fax 613 07 26; Boschveldweg
A67 interior is also of interest, with late-Gothic 15; s/d 31/60) As its name suggests, its close
A4 E34 Venlo
N1 A67

stained-glass windows, an impressive statue to the station. The simple, brightly coloured
ZEELAND A2
of the Madonna, and an amazing organ case rooms are decent enough, plus theres an
A12 A1 LIMBURG from the 17th century. appealing bar (well, the owners call it a folk
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
To Mnchengladbach
Turnhout (10km) Unfortunately, Protestants destroyed the pub) and regular live folk music.
E25
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
A21
Roermond cathedrals paintings in 1566. Thankfully, two Hotel Euro (%613 77 77; www.eurohotel-denbosch
Thorn
N69 by Bosch remain. .com; Kerkstraat 56; s/d from 65/85) This business hotel
Antwerpen
l
naa

A11

aka

0 500 m
DEN BOSCH
ian

0 0.3 miles
Jul

N71
A14 N74 GERMANY
A B C D De IJzeren
BELGIUM A2 Prins Vrouw

n
A12 A1 Hendrikpark

aa
e
A76 tr

kad
gs

ell
A3 Heerlen u

d
Br

els
INFORMATION

ta
nd

Ci
A79

Boschveldweg
Kerkrade Bosch Medicentrum.............1 C1

Ha
Emmapl
Maastricht To Aachen 1 Jan Z
Leuven Valkenburg Hein Zu uid- Library.................................2 C2
(7km) s Str Zu id-W W
Brussel id- i illem Post Office...........................3 C2

De Dommel
Havensingel

Buitenhaven

Smalle Haven
nenlaan
W llem sv Tourist Information..............4 B2
ille s aa

tr
A2 Margraten

els
ms vaa rt

k
Chr H va rt

erc
Drielandenpunt uygen a

Koningin
rt SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

nB
sweg
To Luik (Lige)

str

Va
11 1 Aa
Bosch Statue........................ 5 B2

ug
(18km) De
Kard V Noordbrabants Museum...... 6 C2

lbr
train Rossumpl

To
16 station Stationspl Stationsweg St Janskathedraal.................7 C2
19

wstr
Visstr Stadhuis...............................8 B2

Ho enwe
DEN BOSCH (S-HERTOGENBOSCH)

Ste
Lepelstr
NOORD BRABANT

og g
ulaan

Nieu
e Pe
18 13

20 4 SLEEPING
%073 / pop 134,000

Nassa

Karr
Eerste All Inn.................................9 C2

nsma
Kruis
This sweet old town has a top-notch church,

gel
Korenstr

enstr
Markt Hintham 2 15 Hotel Euro.........................10 C2
erstr

rkt
str
ssin
nlaan

2 Hotel Terminus...................11 A1

tr
The Netherlands largest province spans the a good museum, outstanding cafs and

Gassels
5

Sne
r
Julianapl

t Jan

Postelst
r 9 10 Hintham

rkt -
t
ins

ma apen
istrate

llest
17 erstr

Clarastr
bottom of the country from the waterlogged restaurants, and atmospheric streets that eg 8 nte EATING

Sin
Fo 14

r
7

Sch
Kerkstr

Torenstr
Het
yw
r Caf 't Bonte Palet...........(see 17)
west to the elevated east. The towns here have make for plenty of enjoyable strolling. The Choorstr
Mag

12 te
eg
Ach dhuis
Ma

Sta Compas.............................12 B2
gsw
Parade

l
ge
3
mostly transformed from wealthy medieval official name of the town is s-Hertogen-
sin
De Raadskelder..................(see 8)
nin

ois
Lange Putstr De Truffel...........................13 B2
leb

an
Ko

fiefdoms to laid-back shopping, student and bosch (Dukes Forest), but locals call it Den

Peperstr

lla
Wil

Triniteitstr
Ve
r D'Orient skudar..............14 C2

ke
rst

rw
es s De

tourism precincts. Den Bosch is the main city Bosch (den boss). Its the birthplace of the Restaurant Nescio..............15 C2

He
te

e rss
gh
e
al
Do

Vu Restaurant PuntNL.............16 A2

tr
tw

and, along with Breda, is an interesting place well-known 15th-century painter Hierony-
er
nD

Bastion
to spend the day. mous Bosch, who took his surname from Sp
Va

inh ENTERTAINMENT
Baselaar

Pe
n uis De Muzerije.......................17 C2

tte
aa wa
Despite its size, Noord Brabant wont hold the town. ark
l

laa
Willenpl P cht l wal Baselaarspark
Zuid

rse
3 gra Bastion
you up. Its primarily a land of agriculture gel TRANSPORT

we
Sin

g
Oranje Boat Tours..........................18 B2
and industry, peppered with a few towns Orientation Wilhelminapl
Bus Information.................19 A2
Bus Station.........................20 A2
pleasant and engaging enough to use as way The towns pedestrianised centre is based
stations on your pilgrimage to Limburg or around the Markt, 600m east of the train Bastion
Vught
beyond. station.
 274 N O O R D B R A B A N T E i n d h o v e n Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O O R D B R A B A N T Ti l b u r g 275

is part of a chain, but its still got a certain Other options: Thu). With a wonderful, first-rate collection of by the emergence of newer competitors such
degree of warmth, even if the rooms are draped De Raadskelder (%613 69 19; Markt 1A; hTue-Sat 20th-century paintings including works by as Flevolands Six Flags.
in chintzy corporate pastels. The location is 10.30am-5pm, dinner Sun 5.30-10.30pm) A 16th-century Picasso, Chagall and Kandinsky it almost, All the usual suspects are here: huge, scary
central and next to a warren of great cafs and Gothic cellar kitchen/restaurant right under the town hall. but not quite, matches the greatness of the rides, walk-through entertainment with ani-
eating houses. The ambience is nothing short of inspirational. Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam or the Boi- matronic robot models, scenes from popular
All Inn (%613 40 57; Gasselstraat 1; s/d from 35/50; D Orient skudar (%614 20 20; Verwersstraat 3; jmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam. stories and fairy tales, live shows performed
hclosed Aug & carnaval) On the lovably shabby but mains 8-15; hdinner) Great Turkish food; lots of goats Theres a unique nightlife district, Het Stra- by talent, sticky hands, crying kids
clean side. Note: midnight curfew. cheese throughout. tumseind, where more than 30 cafs, bars and Theres on-site accommodation the web-
restaurants within a single stretch of street site provides full details.
Eating & Drinking Entertainment make it one of the most concentrated such To get to De Efteling, take bus 136 or 137
Try the local speciality, a heart-failure calorie- De Muzerije (%614 10 84; Hinthamerstraat 74) This areas in the country. There are many options, from Tilburg or Den Bosch train station.
fest known as the Bossche bol (Den Bosch ball). all-in-one venue features different kinds of and obviously bar-hopping is easy to do.
Its a chocolate-coated cake the size of a soft- theatre, dance and film. Eindhoven Airport (www.eindhovenairport.nl) is BREDA
ball, filled with sweetened cream. 6km west of the centre, and aimed at busi- %076 / pop 167,908
De Truffel (%614 27 42; www.detruffel.com; Kruisstraat Getting There & Around ness travellers. Lovely Breda has a wealth of attractions: inter-
37; mains 10-25; hdinner) Located in a restored The train station is new and brimming with The train station is at a junction of lines to esting streets, flower-filled parks and a stun-
warehouse, De Truffel serves top-notch Medi- services, including a good grocery store aimed Amsterdam, Maastricht and Rotterdam. ning main church. Its present peace belies
terranean food in a relaxed atmosphere. Try at travellers. Lockers are on the concourse Sample fares and schedules: its turbulent past, where its proximity to the
this: whole roasted trout with browned al- over the tracks. Sample fares and schedules: Belgian border meant it has been overrun by
monds and a stuffed potato. Now thats atten- Destination Price Duration Frequency invading armies many times.
tion to detail you dont see everywhere. Destination Price Duration Frequency () (min) (per hr) The town centre is 500m south of the station
Restaurant Nescio (%610 09 00; www.nescio () (min) (per hr) through the large, leafy park, the Valkenberg.
-restaurant.nl; Hinthamerstraat 80; dishes from 4; hdinner) Amsterdam 16.70 90 2 There are two tourist offices (www.vvvbreda.nl;
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
Nescio only serves appetisers, the idea being Amsterdam 12.70 60 2 Maastricht 14.10 80 2 Grote Markt %09005222444; Grote Markt 38; h10.30am-
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
to emphasise taste via concentrated, small Maastricht 18.00 90 1 Rotterdam 15.30 70 2 5.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat; Willemstraat
portions, as well as the notion that to sample Nijmegen 6.80 30 4 %09005222444; Willemstraat 17; h1-6pm Mon, 9am-
several experiences is preferable than one Utrecht 7.50 30 4 TILBURG 6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) and a post office (%522 55
main one. Try fancies such as the preserved %013 / pop 198,000 20; Willemstraat 30; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm
Oriental duck bolts or ask the chef for a wild Buses leave from the area to the right as you With one of the highest ratios of students in Sat) further down from the Willemstraat
card: be sure to tell him your boundaries exit the station. the Netherlands (almost 15% of the popula- tourist office.
(no bulls penises, for example) and let him A bicycle shop is located below the station. tion), youd expect a more progressive vibe.
surprise you. But Tilburg, a former textile town, is in flux, Sights & Activities
Compas (%614 20 20; Postelstraat 79; mains 12-18; EINDHOVEN now that the mills have closed due to foreign The Valkenberg (Falcon Mountain) is the huge
hlunch & dinner) Perched on a little square a few %040 / pop 209,286 competition, and its centre bears the scars of park between the station and the centre. Hunt-
streets behind the Markt, this is a very charm- A mere village in 1900, Eindhoven grew ex- unfortunate 1960s urban renewal schemes ing falcons were trained here for royalty. On
ing and classy little option. Expect Mediter- ponentially thanks to Philips, founded here (think East Berlin). the south side is the 12th-century Begijnhof,
ranean food with an oh-so-delectable flourish in 1891. During the 1990s the electronics People generally make a beeline to Tilburg a home that sheltered unmarried women.
and sense of panache. giant found it was having trouble recruit- in the middle of July, when the Tilburgse Kermis Breda has wonderfully preserved examples of
Restaurant puntNL (%623 44 55; www.restaurant ing employees to work in its home town; it (Tilburg Fair; www.tilburgsekermis.com) takes place for these homes, which were found throughout
puntnl.nl; Magistratenlaan 100; mains 7-15; hlunch Tue- solved the problem by moving to Amsterdam, close to two weeks. Basically an enormous the Netherlands.
Sun) If this relaxed place was any more Dutch, although its research and engineering arms street party, its a massive celebration of street The Breda castle is worth a quick look
itd rust. Try local favourites such as roasted remain here. That sums up the fortunes of this fair and street fare. Rides, beer, bad music, (though note that you cant go inside); ap-
aubergine with sugary stroop (syrup), grated huge industrial town: while its not the most sugary treats, stalls offering stuffed prizes for proach from the south and youll also see the
radish, chopped chives and giant shrimp just thrilling place, its not without merits. games of skill Its the biggest fair in Benelux, Spanjaardsgat (Spanish gate), a reminder of
the kind of taste clash that is favoured here. Electronics aside, Eindhoven is best known and for that reason alone its remarkable. just one of the various incursions the town
Wash it down with jenever (Dutch gin) or for its football team, PSV, who routinely dom- has endured.
elderberry juice and youll be wearing clogs inate the national league. DE EFTELING The Grote Kerk (admission 2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat,
in no time. Theres a tourist office (%297 91 00; www Near Tilburg, in the unassuming town of Kaats- 1-5pm Sun) recently emerged from years of resto-
Caf t Bonte Palet (%613 25 32; Hinthamerstraat .vvveindhoven.nl; Stationsplein 17; h10am-5.30pm Mon, heuvel, is De Efteling (%0416-288 111; www.efteling ration, its now-gleaming white stones free of
97) Talk about quirky: the front window of 9am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, 9am-6.30pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) next .nl; Europalaan 1, Kaatsheuvel; admission 26; h10am-6pm grime. This beautiful Gothic church was built
this little hole-in-the-wall bar is stuffed with to the train station. Apr-Oct, until 9pm 10 Jul-27 Aug), the biggest domestic between the 15th and 17th centuries.
all kinds of trinkets including miniature car- Eindhovens main attraction is the excel- tourist attraction in the Netherlands. This
illons, toy cars, tiny theatrical sets, and the lent Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum (%275 52 75; www Dutch Disneyland pulls more than three Festivals & Events
crowning glory: an Asterix triptych. Theres .vanabbemuseum.nl; Bilderdijklaan 10; adult/child under 12 million visitors annually, proving its 40-year The Bloemencorso (www.bloemencorsozundert.nl) is a
sometimes live music. 8.50/free; h11am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, until 9pm history as a family favourite is undiminished huge annual parade of gorgeously decorated,
 276 N O O R D B R A B A N T B re d a Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o natelonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com N O O R D B R A B A N T S l o t L o e v e s t e i n 277

BREDA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Hotel van Ham (%521 52 29; hotel.van.ham@hetnet Mezz (%515 66 77; www.mezz.nl; Keizerstraat 101)
.nl; Van Coothplein 23; s/d 45/65) John and Sylvia This armadillo-shaped nightclub has a great
A B C train station D To Hotel de
Fabriek (500m) van Hooydonk are the proud proprietors of bar and cool staff to match its eclectic pro-

M. Verhoeffstr
Spoorstr
this charming hotel, which is also home to a gramme everything from drum n bass

Emmastr
3 2

Willemstr
11 ge
l delightful caf-restaurant. Its in a building nights to Latin swing and rock.
Academies sin
ingel at
1
De
lpr thats been a prominent meeting point for Kerkplein (www.kerkpleinbreda.nl) A bangin club,
el
ger
we
g
gs
ing more than 100 years. The rooms are OK, but located right behind the Grote Kerk on Kerk-
Slin eli
el
Se the bar is grand. plein, that stays open well into the morning.
g
sin Hotel de Fabriek (%581 00 08; Speelhuislaan 150;
NW
am Soph

E.
Tr iastr
s/d 65/80) This is a laid-back, quiet place with Getting There & Around
Pr
in
s
en
5 comfortable rooms. The train station has all the usual services.
ka

an
de
7 Valkenberg

y La
n
ell
aa Some fares and schedules:
idd
Eating

ed
M str

nn
h
Cingelstr sc

Ke
Bo
v.Be
rgenstr Sultan Lounge (%520 30 50; www.sultanlounge.nl; Haven Destination Price Duration Frequency

an
Kraan

JF
Adr.

Plein
Kaats 13

erla
2 Vi
10; mains 11-18; hdinner) OK, you know what () (min) (per hr)

Scho
sm Baan 4

ost
ark Catharinastr
str Reigerstr to expect with a name like this. An Arabian
olstr

Klo
Havermarkt

Ann
6
9 Nights feel spread over two floors is reflected Amsterdam 18 110 4
tr

16

astr
plein Grote
Vissers

Kerk
INFORMATION 17 Markt
tstr in the dcor and the attitude: the ground Den Bosch 6.80 33 2
ATM........................................1 C3 mark
Lange Brugstr Vee floor has tables and chairs, upstairs has cush- Roosendaal 5 17 2
Post Office...............................2 D1
Schors

Karr

Claud
str
Weerijssingel

Tourist Office...........................3 D1
Jan
ius Pri
nsen ions and a lounge. Eat your Middle Eastern Rotterdam 8.50 32 3
estr

Tourist Office......................(see 17) tr St laan

ers
Mole

Ni
Rid
d kebabs, tapas, tajines (slow cooked stews),
Ma

eu Ha
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES w 15
dolmades and spiced, stuffed aubergines on Buses leave from the area to the right as you
n

str
rke

lstr
1
Eind

Begijnhof.................................4 C2
n

Da
either level. exit the station.

Ch
Breda Castle.............................5 C2 als
str

as
NOORD BRABANT

ew
Oude

NOORD BRABANT
k

s
Grote eg
3 oij Kerk...............................6 C2 t
Chocolat (%533 59 75; Torenstraat 9; mains 15-30;

tmark A bicycle shop is right next to the station.

Pr
ag
Spanjaardsgat.......................... 7 C2 Oede va Karnemelk Hou
Ha

om
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
n Hoornestr
hlunch & dinner) Part of the Hotel Bliss com- For information on a 52km bicycle route,

en
llen

rstr

Nonn

ad
SLEEPING Akke

e
plex (opposite), Chocolat is as classy as the the Baronie Route, which begins and ends at
e Sta
Ginnek

8
Golden Tulip Keyser Breda.......8 D3 nve
e ld
accommodation, with its Frenchified menu Breda, see p73.
at Markendaalseweg

Lang

Hotel Bliss................................9 C2

enstr

Hotel van Ham......................10 C4

delivering the goods: hares, truffles and cro-
r De

Pension Singel........................11 D1 Co
en

n
SLOT LOEVESTEIN
rstr
eld

Fell
quettes feature prominently, as does veal and
Achte
co

eno
isv

erk
rdia

Keize

EATING ord
u

Doelst 18
l
olw

ge
fine wine. Near the tiny, beautiful little walled town of
th

str

l
str

ge
Al Dente................................ 12 C4
s

sin
Ga

tB

sin
se

14 in
Caf De Beyerd..................... 13 D2 Restaurant Bukowski (%529 75 55; www.restaurant Woudrichem youll find the 14th-century
He

ple
ina
as

Seelig
Irenstra

h Vi
Ch

Chocolat................................(see 9) ot
elm

Kazerne Van er
Co bukowski.nl; Halstraat 21A; mains 16-22; hlunch & dinner) castle, Slot Loevestein (%0183-44 71 71; www.slotloeve
lo str

Gong.....................................14 C4 10 W
ilh

in
W

de
4
Nieuwe Gi

Restaurant Bukowski..............15 C3 Wilhelmina

Bukowskis slick haute cuisine is a real treat, stein.nl; Loevestein 1; adult/child 6.30/4.80; h 10am-
er

i
Dr v M n
W Park
Sultan Lounge........................16 B2 12 r ilh
rst
Van
Go o
elm
in
ap
presented in an informal, though elegant set- 5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; 1-5pm Sat, Sun &
ENTERTAINMENT ar ting. The duck breast, pan fried and served with Wed Oct-Apr). The ancient keep is wonderfully
nnekenstr

Kerkplein...............................17 C2 k
Mezz.....................................18 C4
To Camping
a vegetable pure of beets, artichoke and carrots evocative, perhaps more so for the difficulty
Liesbos (8km)
plus honey-thyme sauce, is a clear winner. involved in getting there. Its been a prison,
Caf De Beyerd (%521 42 65; www.beyerd.nl; residence and toll castle, though more recently
multicoloured floats each one of them MIDRANGE Boschstraat 26; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) The Beyerd it has hosted a varied calendar of cultural
constructed entirely from flowers that Hotel Bliss (%533 59 80; www.blisshotel.nl; Torenstraat 9; is a highly regarded beer caf, with more events (check the website). Its best accessed
passes through the streets of Zundert, 20km ste from 112.50) This funky new designer hotel than 122 brews. Its also the perfect place to by the ferry from Woudrichem, which stops
southwest of Breda. It takes place in early is head and shoulders above the rest of the try some bitterballen (small crumbed, deep- right out front.
September. Breda competition. The spacious, comfort- fried pureed meatballs) or other typical beer-
able suites are filled with the kind of interior- accompanying snacks. WEST NOORD BRABANT
Sleeping design touches that will make you feel like a Other options: Near the border with Zeeland, Noord Brabant
BUDGET mover and shaker: interesting art; angles and Al Dente (%520 43 33; Nieuwe Ginnekenstraat 20; mains more closely resembles its soggy neighbour:
Camping Liesbos (%514 35 14; www.camping-liesbos.nl; planes; retro-futurism bisected with industrial 11-18; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Excellent canals and rivers crisscross the land, and every-
Liesdreef 40; sites 8; hApr-Oct) If youre a camper, chic; bold reds mixed with deep browns. Italian fare. thing is absolutely flat.
this place is your best bet. Take bus 10 or 111 Golden Tulip Keyser Breda (%520 51 73; www.hotel Gong (%521 66 96; www.restaurantgong.nl; Van Roosendaal is a major rail junction for lines
(direction: Etten-Leur) to the Boswachterij keyser.nl; Keizerstraat 5; r from 79) Although its part of a Coothplein 24; mains 16-20; hdinner) Great Asian and north to Rotterdam, south to Belgium, east to
Liesbos stop. chain, the Golden Tulip Keyser Breda (say that Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. Breda and west to Zeeland.
Pension Singel (%521 62 71; [email protected]; 10 times fast after a few ales) sets itself apart by Bergen op Zoom was plundered at various times
Delpratsingel 14; per person 25) Simple but charming its attentive staff its strongest asset. Rooms Entertainment by the Spanish, French and even the British. The
singles and doubles. Its a short walk from are standard business-hotel types, with all the Theres a concentration of places around the results are a hodgepodge of buildings and styles.
the station. trimmings. Prices plunge on weekends. Havermarkt, mostly of varying quality. Its an unremarkable place except for one week
 278 L I M B U R G M a a s t r i c h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G M a a s t r i c h t 279

ingel

g
a year. If you want to see the aftermath of a way by rail or road to Belgium, youd be doing

l
HEUGEMERVELD
eg

John F Kennedysinge
we
annens

0.3 miles

Noorm

500 m

rnerw

en
real party, show up on the Wednesday after yourself a disservice to bypass this wonder-

Ziekenhuis Maastricht
em
Blo

To Academisch
Scha
Shrove Tuesday. Bergen op Zooms carnaval is ful town.

(500m)
the most raucous west of Maastricht, drawing se P
oort
Duit
revellers from throughout Europe who basically Orientation

F
go on a four-day bender. The centre of Maastricht is quite compact,

net

rs tr
station

CRAMIQUE
eg

train

Sphinxlu

fzge
bisected by the Maas river. The area on the east erw
gem
Heu

34

r Na





Bourgognestr

Akerstr
side is known as Wyck, and to the south of here
LIMBURG

N278
eg laan

Renie
llelw Batta
is Cramique. Its about 750m from the train Para

Stationsstr
station to the Vrijthof, the cultural heart.

n
n
Limburglaa

nslaa
nder
Alexa ue
This long and narrow province at times barely Cramiq

aarte
Avenue
seems part of the Netherlands, especially so in Information kke
n

15
ara

St M

6
e B

Hoogbrugstr
Lag
the hilly south. There are all sorts of amusing BOOKSHOPS l idlunet

21
ge Bellefro

Bourgognestr
3
s in

Kennedybrug
Plein 1992
WYCK
n
notices on the A2 motorway into Maastricht Plantage Boekhandel (%321 08 25; Nieuwstraat 9) kke

Wyckerbrugstr

a
E
ara weg

0
0

in

John F
32
unt

lm
B
age asp

he
warning drivers of impending steep grades Good selection of travel and English-language books. L Ma

9
Wl

slaan
Wycker Grachtstr
that would be considered mere humps in

St Maarten
as

28 29 30
other countries. INTERNET ACCESS Ma
weg
anus us Rechtstr rij
RomFrancisc
Centre Cramique (%350 56 00; Ave Cramique 50; Stenen
wal
ke

25
Ble

MAASTRICHT Oeverwal

14
free internet; h10.30am-8.30pm Tue & Thu, 10.30am-

laan
St Servaasbrug
d
var

Stadspark
Wilhelminabrug
%043 / pop 121,573 5pm Wed & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) Contains the oule

bertus
asb

Ma
Make no bones about it: Maastricht is utterly library, as well as earthenware displays and a scale model

St Lam
beautiful. The Crown Jewel of the south of Maastricht.

35
menade
maybe even the entire country its about Maaspro

7
D
eg

Plankstr
NOORD BRABANT

Papenw

NOORD BRABANT
kade

Nolenspark fflaan
16

tr
M Brugstr
Kessels

Jodenstr
as far from windmills, clogs and tulips as MEDICAL SERVICES

ns

VILLAPARK
Stadhuisstr

ne
8
Hoenderstr
33
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
erho
Mariast
slaan

gij
r

Vrouweplein
youd want. Much of the Netherlands has a Academisch Ziekenhuis Maastricht (%387 65 43;

eG

5
u

Be
bert
Lam

Hey
Onze
Lieve
ine

Klein

Mgr
samey feel to it, but here there are Span- P Debyelaan 25) A huge academic hospital just east of the Kle aat

Bredestr
lstr
Muntstr St e nstr str
Heid

ter

Platie

n
2
M
ish and Roman ruins, cosmopolitan food, MECC exposition centre. Pie

Va
dstr St
Hon

20
Nieuwestr

Markt
French and Belgian twists in the architecture, str
gen

17

fstr
Grote Str
an
Heg usla

tr
str

eg
a shrugging off of the shackles of Dutch re- POST

Nieuwenho
Bosch ert

des
26

Glacisw
To St Pietersberg
b
Hu
str

Bre
straint. Even the landscapes different: there Post office (%329 91 99; Statenstraat 4; h9am-6pm en

13

B is s c hops ingel
t

19
po Sin

(1.5km)
Ka

str
27

23
are actually hilly streets and what passes for Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) Theres another post office at Batterijstr

len
s tr

encu
Vrijthof
r
rsg

en
mountains ringing the centre. Unsurprisingly, Stationsstraat 60. oie

Gr

12
p

L
nstr Pa Lo

C
Bogaarde r tr

te

Jeker




many locals see themselves as a sophisticated tenst B ouillons

24
rweg

Gro
Sta

11
Luke

31

P r ins
10
breed apart from the north; by the same token, TOURIST INFORMATION

22
4

Stiphout Cruises.........................35 D1
Klooster

Bus Station..................................34 F1
earthy northerners see posh Maastricht as Tourist office (%325 21 21; www.vvvmaastricht.nl; en
str
St Servaas
ijn
having an identity crisis are these people Kleine Staat 1; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, uc

tr
p
Ca

Aldenhofpark
eg

es
Dutch or what? 11am-3pm Sun) erw

s
ger
Jek

N278
Brusselse Str

Ton
Kommel
Spanning both banks of the Maas river, A bts
tr

with a host of pavement cafs and lovely old Sights & Activities

18
k
wij
cobblestone streets, Maastricht is renowned Maastrichts many delights are scattered along

Kruisherengang

riestr

Maastricht (3km)

ns
Bru

TRANSPORT
for world-class dining and an elegant atmos- both banks of the Maas, but its always a pleas- tr

Restaurant O..............................25 E2 Waldeckpark

a
ss

an
To Stayokay

Tongersepl
Calv
B nu

nV
ke
be
phere thats exquisitely addictive. Hemmed ant stroll from one side to the other. Theres so l

Laa
Je
ge r
sin He
in between Belgium and Germany, it has much historical information to digest around en
ta
t
S Jek
erst
r

a pan-European flavour: the average citi- the Vrijthof while strolling the beautiful streets D1

D1

D3
D2

D3

D2

D1

Night Live..................................33 D1
C1

C2
C2
C2

C1

C1

C1

C2
23 C2
Restaurant Jean La TBrouche.......24 C2

Take Five...................................26 C2

In Den Ouden Vogelstruys.........27 C2

Cinema Lumiere.........................31 C1
Matuchi...................................(see 20)
r

B2
l
E2

E1

E3

E3

E2

E3

John Mullins...............................28 E1

Take One....................................29 E1
Zondag.......................................30 E1

Derlon Theater...........................32 E3
s st ge

N278
zen bounces easily between Dutch, English, winding through and around it. There are also str
St N
icola gsin

k
rto

Za
Centre Cramique........................1
Plantage Boekhandel....................2
Post Office....................................3
Post Office...................................4
Tourist Office...............................5

Bonnefantenmuseum....................6
7
8
Ramparts......................................9
Sint Janskerk..............................10
Sint Servaasbasiliek....................11
Spanish Government Museum...12

Minckelers..............................13

str 14
15
16
Hotel la Colombe.......................17
Kruisherenhotel Maastricht.........18
Maison Du Chne......................19
Matuchi.....................................20

Beluga........................................21
22
He weg
nlaan

Helpoort......................................
Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek..........
Elisabeth Strouve
French, German and Flemish (maybe more). some great museums and remnants of the

Hotel & Tapperij De Poshoorn....

der

Mestizo......................................
Botel Maastricht.........................

Hotel Derlon..............................

Ginger.......................................
la n

g
es

we
gen
Appropriately, the city hosted two key moments medieval city in the Wyck district.

Koningin
Bi

Emmapl

erse
Vlie
Statue of Johannes Petrus
MAASTRICHT

in the history of the EU: on 10 December

lem

ong
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Wil
1991, the 12 members of the then European BONNEFANTENMUSEUM

ENTERTAINMENT
Community met to sign the treaty for eco- The Bonnefantenmuseum (%329 01 90; www.bonne
INFORMATION
A

nomic, monetary and political union; they fantenmuseum.nl; Ave Cramique 250; adult/child under 12yr

DRINKING
SLEEPING

EATING
reconvened the following February to sign 7/3.50; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) features a 28m tower
the treaty creating the EU. thats now a local landmark. Designed by
No Netherlands itinerary is complete with- Aldo Rossi, the museum opened in 1995,
2

3
1

4
out visiting Maastricht. If youre heading this and is well laid-out with collections divided
 280 L I M B U R G M a a s t r i c h t www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G M a a s t r i c h t 281

into departments, each on its own floor: Old The statue at the north end of the Markt is of
Masters and medieval sculpture are on one Johannes Petrus Minckelers, who holds a flaming GOING UNDERGROUND
floor, contemporary art by Limburg artists on rod hes the chap who invented gas light. The Romans developed the Sint Pietersberg tunnels by quarrying soft marlstone at a painstaking
the next. A dramatic sweep of stairs beckons The busy pedestrian Sint Servaasbrug dates rate of just four blocks per day, creating an underground system that provided refuge during the
visitors to both floors. from the 13th-century and links Maastrichts numerous occasions when Maastricht found itself under attack. During WWII, for example, the tun-
Space is devoted to special exhibitions and centre with the Wyck district. nels housed a well, a storeroom, a chapel, a kitchen and a bakery even a pen for livestock.
shows, of which there are usually four annu- The component called the Northern Corridor System Tunnels is an amazing feat of pre-industrial
ally, two following classical/historical themes, FORTIFICATIONS engineering: at one stage there were 20,000 separate passages, adding up to a length of 200km
two on more contemporary material. It also At the end of Sint Bernardusstraat, the Hel- and stretching past the Belgian border until the French blew up a large chunk of it, thinking
espouses an ongoing commitment to solo poort is the oldest surviving town gate in they were under the Roman fort of Sint Pietersberg. Instead, the French army only succeeded in
exhibitions by young and emerging artists, the Netherlands (1229). The remains of 13th- entombing hundreds of their own men. There are prehistoric fossils of fish and other creatures
and is the patron of the major biannual Vin- century ramparts and fortifications are across down here, a reminder of an inland sea that once held sway.
cent Van Gogh Award for Contemporary Art the Maas in the new Cramique district. Walking through the tunnels is an eerie experience and youll feel a deep chill, not only from
in Europe. Temporary exhibitions are revela- Much of Maastricht is riddled with defensive fear of ghosts but also because its extremely cold and dark, perfect for growing mushrooms
tory, such as the recent Travellin Light show, tunnels dug into the soft sandstone over the which some people do. People hiding down here during sieges would often die of exposure.
focusing on Dadaist lineages. centuries. The best place to see the tunnels One of the most fascinating aspects of the tunnels is the graffiti from throughout the ages.
From 2006 until 2008, while Amsterdams is Sint Pietersberg, a Roman fort 2km south You can see generations of drawings on the walls, everything from ancient Roman stick figures to
Rijksmuseum is undergoing renovation, the of Helpoort. This is a really beautiful area, wartime depictions of movie stars like Bette Davis, to 70s hippy nudes (the tunnels were barred
Bonnefantenmuseum will display Rijksmu- pastoral and peaceful the fort is an arresting from general access from the 80s on, before Dutch rappers could lay down some murals).
seum classics from the southern Netherlands, sight peeking over the charming hillside The VVV guides like to play little tricks, asking your permission first to ensure you wont
Antwerp and Bruges. and its a very relaxing walk from town. If completely freak out. A favourite is to take your gas light away from you the guide then walks
you must, take bus 29, which goes past the around a bend until they and all available light completely disappears into a black hole. You
VRIJTHOF fort from Vrijthof. are then left in the stillest, thickest, heaviest darkness imaginable a blackness you can literally
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
The large square of Vrijthof is surrounded The Romans built the Northern Corridor feel. You are then asked to make your way to the guide, using your sense of touch to follow
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
by lively cafs and cultural institutions. Its System Tunnels (see the boxed text, opposite) the curves of the wall.
dominated by Sint Servaasbasiliek (admission 2; throughout the hills over a period of 2000 As our favourite guide, Kitty, loves to relate, this little game can make grown men cry. When
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, Sun Nov-Mar), a pastiche of years; at one stage, the tunnels extended under a Swedish, all-male TV crew filming a documentary on the tunnels took up the dare, Kitty took
architecture dating from 1000. the NetherlandsBelgium border. Thirteen away all the lights and disappeared around a corner, asking them to feel their way around the
Sint Janskerk is a small 17th-century Gothic species of bats have been found living below bend. But they couldnt do it and all three broke down in tears.
church, one of the most beautiful in the the surface. But once you were mighty Vikings Kitty admonished, and now you cry like babies.
Netherlands. A remarkable red colour, it The tourist office leads spooky, thrilling,
photographs beautifully. Climb to the top and educational cave tours (%321 78 78; 3;
(1.15) for gorgeous views. h3.30pm daily Jul-Aug & school holidays) this ex- collapses sometime on Wednesday. Everything stops for the perimeter of a nature reserve, a 3km walk
The 16th-century Spanish Government Mu- perience is highly recommended. Although carnaval. from the town centre. Take bus 11 (Monday to
seum (%321 13 27; www.museumspaansgouvernement tours are supposed to be conducted in Dutch, Preuvenemint As befitting its culinary reputation, each Friday) or 8 or 18 (Saturday and Sunday) from
.nl; Vrijthof 18; admission 2.50; h1-5pm Wed-Sun) is ask for Kitty, an extremely knowledgeable, year Maastricht hosts this foodie festival, which takes over Maastricht station to the Dousberg stop.
where Philip II outlawed his former lieuten- English-speaking guide. the Vrijthof for four days, with 40 stands featuring the
ant Willem the Silent at the start of the Eighty best food and wine from all over the region. Its called the MIDRANGE
Years War. The exhibits feature statues and Tours largest open-air restaurant in the world. Matuchi (%354 06 92; Kleine Gracht 34; s/d 50/65) These
17th-century paintings. The tourist office can arrange all manner of European Fine Art Foundation Show (TEFAF; www rooms, above the supersmooth bar of the
walking tours and cycling expeditions. .tefaf.com) Europes largest annual art show is held in same name (p282), are elegant, minimal and
STREETS, SQUARES & BRIDGES Stiphout Cruises (%351 53 00; Maaspromenade 27; late March at the cavernous MECC exposition centre, just stylish, and surprisingly large for the price
The best way to see Maastricht is to just stroll. adult/child 6/3.75; hdaily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Dec) south of Cramique. More than 200 exhibitors converge range. All include flat-screen TVs for your
Streets not to miss include those south and runs boat cruises on the Maas. On certain on Maastricht offering masterpieces to those with a few supine pleasure.
east of Vrijthof: youll be rewarded with a days there are day-long round-trip cruises to million euros to spare. The event is open to the public. Maison Du Chne (%321 35 23; www.maastrichthotel
medieval labyrinth punctuated by interesting Liege in Belgium (adult/child 18.95/11.25), .com; Boschstraat 104; s/d from 40/58) In an elegant
shops and cafs. although you can get a one-way ticket. Sleeping 1855 building, the Maisons rooms are very
Onze Lieve Vrouweplein is an intimate caf- Maastricht is a popular weekend destination clean and the brasserie on the ground floor
filled square named after its church, the Onze Festivals & Events throughout the year, so reservations are a is class and a half. Beware: its right on the
Lieve Vrouwebasiliek (treasury adult/child 2/1; h10am- Three events stand out from the busy Maas- must. The tourist office has a list of private Markt, which can make for a noisy Friday or
5pm), which has parts dating from before 1000 tricht calendar: rooms travellers can book. Saturday night. Ask for rooms at the back.
and may well be built on the foundations of a Carnaval Celebrated with greater vigour in Maastricht Hotel la Colombe (%321 57 74; www.hotellacolombe
Roman cathedral. There is a separate treasury than anywhere else in Europe save Venice (Italy) and Sitges BUDGET .nl; Markt 30; s/d 61/80) Also on the Markt, in a
area that houses gaudy jewels and riches; these (Spain). The orgy of partying and carousing begins the Stayokay Maastricht (% 346 67 77; www.stayokay simple, white building, la Colombe has rooms
you can see for a small and worthwhile fee. Friday before Shrove Tuesday and lasts until the last person .com/maastricht; Dousbergweg 4; dm from 24; s) On that are equally unadorned, but all have a TV
 282 L I M B U R G M a a s t r i c h t Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G A r o u n d M a a s t r i c h t 283

and bath. This unassuming but friendly hotel striking, stylish decor, and ever-present, ever- in all, a hot joint in which to have a cool to/from Brussels. Interliner has hourly buses
has a decent caf. tasty aquatic meals. Lobster soup with mussels drink. to/from Aachen.
Botel Maastricht (%321 90 23; Maasboulevard 95; s/d and shrimps, anyone? Pan-roasted moonfish? Zondag (%321 93 00; www.cafzondag.nl; Wyckerbrug-
37/58; i) Two barges lashed together make Theres even a separate fruits-de-mer (seafood) straat 42) Here the cool is a bit more standard: Getting Around
up the Botel, the smaller vessel acting as an menu grand! Fresh and delightful. the interior is a little more old-fashioned, There is car and motorcycle parking in mas-
exemplary deck for beer drinking when the Ginger (%326 00 22; Tongersestraat 7; mains 10-20; though still jaw-achingly hip. Chow down on sive underground lots by the river.
suns out. Inside, rooms are narrow and port- hlunch & dinner) Super-smooth and healthy light lunches, tapas and other bar snacks, as A bicycle shop is in a separate building to
holed for that sea-dog feel, but comfy enough. Asian noodle soups come to Maastricht. And well as musical accompaniment such as live the left as you exit the station.
Theres a beaut little shipshape bar inside. Gingers the place to get them. Fabulous, fresh Latin music or breakbeat DJs.
Hotel & Tapperij De Poshoorn (%321 73 34; www ingredients in a serene and wonderful con- John Mullins (%350 01 41; www.johnmullins.nl; AROUND MAASTRICHT
.poshoorn.nl; Stationsstraat 47; s/d 57.50/70) This is a temporary setting. Wyckerbrugstraat 50) This superfriendly Irish pub The hills and forests of southern Limburg
good, simple place with a great caf. Restaurant Jean La Brouche (%321 46 09; Tongerse- features a very popular but challenging quiz make for excellent hiking and biking. The
straat 9; 3-course menu 28; hdinner Mon-Sat) This is night on Tuesdays. Sample questions might Drielandenpunt (the convergence of the Neth-
TOP END classic cuisine in a quiet, lovely part of town. include this: What was the first to feature seat erlands, Belgium and Germany) is on the
o Kruisherenhotel Maastricht (% 329 20 Think white tablecloths and cutlery with a bit belts: cars or planes? The collective groans highest hill in the country (323m), in Vaals,
20; www.chateauhotels.nl; Kruisherengang 19-23; s/d from of heft to it. If youre a fan of old-style French can be heard for streets around. 26km southeast of Maastricht. Its an excellent
85/145; i) This stunning option is housed cooking, give this place a whirl. In Den Ouden Vogelstruys (%321 48 88; www.vogel driving or biking destination.
inside the former Crutched Friar monastery Mestizo (%327 08 74; www.mestizo.nl; Bredestraat struys.nl; Vrijthof 15) On the main drag, this antique
complex that dates from 1483. The publicity 18; mains 12-19; %lunch & dinner) Need a break bar is a little bit naughty and a little bit nice. Valkenburg
calls it a designer hotel, but the past hasnt from French and Dutch cuisine? Try Mes- The entrance has big, old, heavy red curtains, %043 / pop 18,000
been overwhelmed. Where there are modern tizo, a very inspired Latin restaurant serving and inside there are photos of big, old, heavy This small town in the hills east of Maastricht
touches, like moulded furniture and padded up terrific Spanish and Mexican food. Now, men on the wall, big, old, heavy light fittings, has possibly the most overcommercialised
walls, they accent the historical surrounds. exactly who among us can resist marinated and big, old, heavy Trappist beer. centre in the Netherlands, attracting hordes
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
The rooms feature flat-screen TVs and wall- lamb steaks roasted with garlic and chilli? of tour buses. But away from the town are
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
length paintings. Sumptuous. Well, vegetarians, obviously but theres a Entertainment excellent trails and cycle paths through the
Hotel Derlon (%321 67 70; www.derlon.com; Onze reasonable selection for them, too. Night Live (%09002020158; Kesselskade 43) A night- nearby forests.
Lieve Vrouweplein 6; r from 155; i) The sleekly luxu- club in an old church that opens after mid- The tourist office (%09009798; www.vvvzuid
rious and smartly suave Derlon boasts slim- CAFS night at weekends; eclectic musical policy. limburg.nl; Walramplein 5) has a huge selection of
line and slyly singular rooms and enthusiastic Take Five (%321 09 71; Bredestraat 14; lunch 6; hlunch Derlon Theater (%350 50 50; Plein 1992) Near the maps of the area and can assist with bicycle
staff, and the breakfast room in the basement & dinner) Situated on a quiet street parallel to the new library, Derlon has drama and music. The hire. You might start at the over-restored
is built around Roman ruins. A pampering cramped terraces of heaving Platielstraat, Take caf has fine river views from the terrace. castle (admission 6; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) above town
and luxurious experience. Five combines fusion cooking with a stark Cinema Lumiere (%321 40 80; Bogaardenstraat 40B) from where trails radiate out through the
interior, chill-out music and engaging staff. Offbeat and classic films are screened on a countryside.
Eating Expect live jazz on many nights. regular basis at this cinema. ASP Adventure (%604 06 75; www.aspadventure.nl)
Maastricht has four restaurants with Miche- gives 90-minute guided tours (22, minimum
lin stars this is a very classy dining scene. Drinking Getting There & Away 10 people) of the networks of caves that rid-
To put this into perspective, Amsterdam, Take One (%321 64 23; www.takeonebiercaf.nl; Recht- Maastricht Airport is a small facility served dle the soft sandstone of the hills. There are
with four times the population, has six such straat 28) Cramped and narrow from the outside, by KLM subsidiaries, which have flights to many options, including riding bikes under-
establishments. this 1930s tavern is manages to stock well over London and connecting flights to Schiphol. ground.
100 beers from the most obscure parts of the It is 10km north of the centre see p304 for Valkenburg is easily reached from Maas-
RESTAURANTS Benelux region. Its run by a husband-and- more information. tricht by train (2.50, 12 minutes, two per
Beluga (%321 33 64; www.restbeluga.com; Plein 1992; wife team who also organise beer tastings and Sample train fares and schedules: hour).
hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) With two Miche- refer to their customers as victims. Relax,
lin stars, Beluga leads the pack. This sleek, though, theyll willingly help you select the Destination Price Duration Frequency Netherlands American Cemetery &
angular, elegant designer restaurant not far brew most appropriate to your tastes. Some () (min) (per hr) Memorial
from the Maas features excellent service and of these beers have a huge kick, attaining 10% In Margraten, 10km southeast of Maastricht,
Frenchified cuisine that never fails to im- alcohol volume in some cases. Take One also Amsterdam 26.70 155 1 the Netherlands American Cemetery & Memorial
press with its attention to detail. A recent stocks whats termed the worlds bitterest Rotterdam 25.70 140 2 (hsunrise-sunset) is dedicated to US soldiers
menu sample included lightly steamed sole beer indeed, sucking lemons is milder but Utrecht 23.10 120 1 who died in Operation Market Garden and
with pan-fried langoustines and pommes la less pleasurable. the general Allied push to liberate the Dutch.
tsarine filled with caviar, butter asparagus and Matuchi (%354 06 92; Kleine Gracht 34) This There is an hourly international service to Its a sombre memorial with row after row of
a sour cream and black pepper sauce. venue bills itself as an Orient Style Lab, Liege, from where you can catch trains to silent white crosses a stark but necessary
Restaurant O (%325 97 47; www.restaurant-o.nl; but its a bit more than that: theres a dash of Brussels, Paris and Cologne. testament to the futility of war.
Rechtstraat 76; mains 18-21; hlunch & dinner) This A Clockwork Orange in the interior design, The bus station is to the right as you exit The bus service to the cemetery runs from
(mainly) seafood restaurant wins us over with mixed with de rigueur Arabian themes. All the train station. Eurolines has one bus a day Maastrichts train station.
 Lonely Planet Publications
284 L I M B U R G N o r t h L i m b u r g www.lonelyplanet.com

NORTH LIMBURG Germans as part of Operation Market Garden

Clinging to the Maas river, the northern half in 1944. The heart of the battlefield is now the
of Limburg, barely 30km across at its widest site of the sober Nationaal Oorlogs- en Verzetsmu-
point, is a no-nonsense place of industry and seum (National War & Resistance Museum; %0478-64 18 20;
agriculture. Venlo, the major town, has a small www.oorlogsmuseum-overloon.nl; Museumpark 1; adult/child
historic quarter near the train station. Venlo 6.50/5; h10am-5pm), a thoughtful place that ex-
along with Thorn and Roermond are worth a amines the role of the Netherlands in WWII.
quick look if you are changing trains for the To reach the museum take the hourly train
hourly service to Cologne. to Venray from either Roermond (7.20, 40
minutes) or Nijmegen (6.20, 25 minutes).
Nationaal Oorlogs- en Verzetsmuseum Then call a treintaxi (see p309) and buy your
Overloon, a tiny town on the border with ticket (4.10) from the ticket machine. The
Noord Brabant, was the scene of fierce bat- museum is 7km from the station. Make ar-
tles between the Americans, British and the rangements with the driver for your return.
NOORD BRABANT
& LIMBURG

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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 Lonely Planet Publications
285

DIREC TORY
Directory
and, while most are fairly standard and highly
CONTENTS functional, a few gems fly the boutique flag or
are simply bizarre (p237).
Accommodation 285 Note that a good part of the country suffers
Activities 287 from the Amsterdam effect: because trans-
Business Hours 288 port is so efficient and the city is so popular,
Children 288 many visitors stay in the capital even if theyre
Climate 289 travelling further afield.
Courses 289
Customs 289 B&Bs
Dangers & Annoyances 289 Bed-and-breakfasts are an excellent way to
Discount Cards 290 meet the friendly locals face to face, and to
Embassies & Consulates 290 see the weird, the wacky and the wonder-
Festivals & Events 290 ful interior designs of the Dutch first-hand.
Food 291 Unfortunately, theyre not abundant in cit-
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 291 ies, but the countryside is awash with them.
Holidays 292 Local tourist offices keep a list of B&Bs on
Insurance 292 file, where costs usually range from 18 to
Internet Access 292 25 per person.
Legal Matters 292
Maps 293 Camping
Money 293 The Dutch are avid campers, even within
Post 294 their own country. Campgrounds tend to be
Shopping 295 self-contained communities complete with
Solo Travellers 295 shops, cafs, playgrounds and swimming
Telephone 295 pools. Lists of sites with ratings (one to five
Time 296 stars) are available from the ANWB (the
Tourist Information 296 Dutch automobile organisation) and tourist
Travellers with Disabilities 296 offices. If you plan to do a lot of camping,
Visas 296 pick up a copy of ANWBs yearly Camping-
Women Travellers 297 gids (9.50); its in Dutch, but the listings are
Work 297 easy to follow.
A camp site, which costs anything between
ACCOMMODATION 10 and 20, covers two people and a small
The countrys wealth of home stays, hotels tent; a car is an extra 1.50 to 6. Caravans are
and hostels provide any traveller whether popular every one in 15 residents owns one
they be backpacker or five-star aficionado so there are oodles of hook-ups.
with plenty of choice. Hotels and B&Bs are the Simple bungalows or trekkershutten (hiker
mainstay of accommodation in the country, huts; from 32) are another option. A typical
hiker hut has four bunks, cooking facilities and
electricity, but youll need to bring your own
BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE sleeping bags, dishes and utensils. Consult www
For more accommodation reviews and rec- .trekkershutten.nl.
ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, Rough camping is illegal. To get away from
check out the online booking service at it all, seek out natuurkampeerterreinen (nature
www.lonelyplanet.com. Youll find the true, campgrounds) attached to farms. Youll enjoy a
insider lowdown on the best places to stay. simpler and less crowded existence than at the
Reviews are thorough and independent. major campgrounds. Reserve through tourist
Best of all, you can book online. offices or check information online at www
.natuurkampeerterreinen.nl.
DIREC TORY 286 D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s 287

DIREC TORY
Some lucky folks find places in the clas- also find motorboats for gliding through the
PRACTICALITIES sifieds of the daily Telegraaf (Wednesday), country canals.
The metric system is used for weights and measures. Volkskrant or Parool (Saturday), or through The Netherlands Board of Tourism (www.holland
the twice-weekly ViaVia. All the papers have .com) will match you up with boat-rental firms
Buy or watch videos on the PAL system.
websites with rental ads in Dutch; scan under depending on your location and budget and
Keep abreast of things back home in the International Herald Tribune, the Guardian, or the Te huur or Huurwoningen. The Expatica the type of boat you want. On the website,
Times, or weeklies the Economist, Newsweek or Time on newsstands. (www.expatica.com/holland) website has ads and a follow the boat rental link under Search.
If you know a little Dutch, read up on the Netherlands perspective on the news in De handy Where to live in (city) section, and Local tourist offices will also have a list of boat
Telegraaf, NRC Handelsblad, Het Parool and Het Financieele Dagblad. Craigs List (www.craigslist.com), a worldwide clas- rentals. The Royal Dutch Watersports Association
sified ads website, has a small but effective (%030-656 65 50; www.watersportverbond.nl; Daltonlaan
Read the latest gossip and a smattering of news, in Dutch, for free in Spits and Metro, two
Amsterdam presence. If a flat sounds good, 400, 3584 BK Utrecht) provides advice on boating
daily rags available from train stations.
pick up the phone right then and there be- rules and hundreds of links to relevant web-
Find out what the Dutch are listening to on Noordzee FM (100.7FM), Radio 538 (102FM) and cause it may be gone in a matter of hours. sites. ANWB stocks maps of the Netherlands
Sky Radio (101.2FM). Be aware that some people try to let out their most popular waterways.
Watch or listen to the BBC, CNN and a welter of Euro-stations. rent-subsidised flats to foreigners at inflated The following companies have typical rates,
prices, which is illegal. bearing in mind that everything is negotiable
Plug your hairdryer into a Continental two-pin adapter before you tap the electricity network
(220V to 240V AC, 50Hz).
If time is of the essence, try the following (after all, bargaining is a Dutch tradition):
agents: Flevo Sailing (%0320-26 03 24; www.flevosailing.nl;
Amsterdam Apartment (%020-668 26 54; www Oostvaardersdijk 59c, Lelystad) Has a fleet of four- to
.amsterdamapartment.nl; Oude Nieuwstraat 1, Amsterdam) eight-passenger sailing yachts for rent.
Hostels Many tourist offices can book hotel rooms Apartment Services (%020-672 18 40; www Holiday Boatin Yachtcharter (%0515-41 37 81;
The Dutch youth-hostel association Stayokay virtually anywhere in the country for a small .apartmentservices.nl; Waalstraat 58, Amsterdam) Eeltjebaasweg 3, Sneek) Rents motorboats for puttering
(%020-551 31 55; www.stayokay.com; Postbus 9191, 1006 fee (usually a few euros). GWK currency- IDA Housing (%020-624 83 01; www.idahousing.com; about on Frieslands myriad lakes and canals.
AD Amsterdam) still uses the Hostelling Interna- exchange offices take hotel reservations, charg- Den Texstraat 30, Amsterdam) Holland Zeilcharters (see p155).
tional (HI) logo, but the hostels themselves go ing a small fee and 10% of the room charge Hollands Glorie (%0294-27 15 61; www.hollands
under the name Stayokay. Most offer a good in advance. The Netherlands Reservation Centre ACTIVITIES glorie.nl; Ossenmarkt 6, Muiden) Has tjalks for rent from
variety of rooms. As facilities have improved (%0299-68 91 44; www.hotelres.nl; Plantsoengracht 2, 1441 The most popular outdoor activities are linked a day to a week. Boats depart from harbours around the
over the years to cater to groups and families, DE Purmerend) accepts bookings from abroad. You to the defining characteristics of the Dutch country, including Amsterdam, Edam, Hoorn, Medemblik
so prices have increased. can generally save money by booking directly landscape: flat land and water. There is no and Muiden.
A youth-hostel card costs 15 at the hostels, with the hotel, but many wont take credit shortage of sports clubs and special-interest Top of Holland Yacht Charter (www.topofholland
or nonmembers can pay an extra 2.50 per cards and may insist on a down payment. groups for your favourite pastime, as the .com) Represents companies in Friesland, the IJsselmeer
night and thus become a member after six Prices vary, but in cities you should expect Dutch have a penchant for organisation. region and Zuid Holland, renting out everything from small
nights. HI members get discounts on inter- to pay under 50 for a double room in a budget sailboats to large cabin cruisers.
national travel and pay less commission on hotel, up to 125 in a midrange hotel and from Boating
money exchange at GWK offices. Members 125 for the top end. Prices in Amsterdam It seems as though everyone in the Nether- Cycling
and nonmembers have the same privileges, tend to be higher: under 70 for a budget lands is the proud owner of a boat; stroll by Cycling is a way of life in the Netherlands.
and there are no age limits. double, 70 to 150 for a midrange double and the canals and lakes and youll see all manner The country offers easy cycling terrain with
Apart from the usual dormitories there are upwards from 150 for a top-end double. of water craft, some impossibly wacky, often many designated paths, including loads of off-
rooms for one to eight people, depending on Last but not least, when booking for two decades old, lovingly maintained and enjoyed road routes through pastures and woodland.
the hostel. Nightly rates normally range from people, make clear whether you want two in weather fair or fearful. Small canoes and The infrastructure gives priority to bikes over
20 to 25 per person for dorm beds. Be sure single (twin) beds or a double bed. sailboats can be hired on lakes throughout the other forms of transportation, and car drivers
to book ahead, especially in high season. country the likes of Loosdrechtse Plassen in often yield to cyclists even when the latter are
Rental Accommodation Utrecht province (p185) or Sneek (p235) in pushing their luck. For more on traffic rules
Hotels Special rules apply to rental accommodation Friesland make particularly good bases for and specific bike routes, see p69.
The Dutch rating system goes up to five stars; to combat a perpetual housing shortage. Rents such an activity.
accommodation with less than one star can call under 564 per month require a housing per- Sailing on a traditional boat is an unforget- Skating
itself a pension or guesthouse but not a hotel. mit, but you arent likely to get one swiftly, so table experience. Named for its ruddy sails, The Netherlands is practically tailor-made
The stars arent very helpful because they meas- expect to pay substantially more say, 900 the brown fleet of restored flat-bottomed for in-line skating. City parks are breeding
ure the amenities and the number of rooms but for a smallish two-bedroom flat in a not-grotty vessels is a familiar sight on the vast IJsselmeer grounds for the latest flashy manoeuvres on
not the quality of the rooms themselves. Hotels area of Amsterdam. Rents vary quite a bit in at weekends. The cheapest rental option are half-pipes, but the popularity of skating is such
tend to be small, with less than 20 rooms. the big cities, with Amsterdam and Den Haag botters, old fishing boats with long, narrow that day trips have been mapped throughout
Many establishments have steep stairs at the top and Rotterdam somewhere near the leeboards and sleeping berths for up to eight the country. The Achterhoek region (the east-
but no lifts, which can pose problems for the bottom of the scale. Most Dutch residents usu- passengers. Larger groups can go for con- ern part of Gelderland) combines quiet con-
mobility-impaired. Having said that, most top- ally find a place through the so-called housing verted freight barges known as tjalks (smacks), ditions with a nice variety of landscapes; the
end and a few midrange hotels do have lifts. corporations after waiting a couple of years. ancient pilot boats or massive clippers. Youll Graafschap area in the northwest has seven
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signposted skating routes with a total length Islands have places that rent windsurfing are very positive, and Dutch children tend to For more detailed climate information,
of 200km. The list of places to skate is end- boards (look for surfplanken). In winter the be spontaneous and confident, thanks to a see p12.
less any dyke top can be perfect for a spin. frozen lakes become racecourses for ice- relaxed approach to parenting.
See the iSkate (www.iskate.nl) website for details surfing, with breakneck speeds of 100km per COURSES
of events, hot skating spots and night skates, hour or more. Websites such as Windlords (www Practicalities Language
though the Skatebond Nederland (Dutch Skating Club; .windlords.com/nl) list the most popular locations Some hotels have a no-children policy check Dutch is a close relative of English, but that
www.skatebond.nl) is more authoritative. to windsurf around the country. You can also when you book. Most restaurants have high doesnt make it easy to learn. Standard courses
Ice skating was part of the Dutch psy- inquire at any tourist office. chairs and childrens menus. Facilities for take months, and intensive courses last several
che long before scarfed figures appeared in Wherever theres windsurfing, kite-surfing changing nappies, however, are limited to weeks. Make inquiries well in advance.
Golden Age winterscapes. The first skates wont be far away. Harder to master but ar- the big department stores, major museums Well-reputed schools include:
were made from cow shanks and ribs, had guably more exhilarating, this relatively new and train stations, and youll pay to use them. Amsterdam Summer University (%020-620 02 25;
hand-drilled holes and were tied to the feet. pastime is catching on quickly with lovers of Breast-feeding is generally OK in public if www.amsu.edu; Keizersgracht 324, 1016 EZ Amsterdam)
When canals and ponds freeze over, everyone wind and water. If youre interested in giving done discreetly. Kids are allowed in pubs but Conducts all of its courses and workshops in English (apart
takes to the ice, and you can join them with it a try or want to hone your skills while on arent supposed to drink until theyre 16. from its Dutch language training).
a pair of hockey skates (the best thing for be- holiday, check out www.kitesurf.pagina.nl; its Children aged under four travel free on British Language Training Centre (%020-622 36
ginners) bought either secondhand or from a in Dutch, but the lists of Dutch kite-surfing trains if they dont take up a seat. Theres a 34; www.bltc.nl; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 328E, 1012 RW
department store. The famous Elfstedentocht websites are easy to navigate. Railrunner fare (2) for kids aged four to 11. Amsterdam) Offers both Dutch and English courses.
(Eleven Cities Race, p238) takes place in Fries- Tropeninstituut (Royal Institute for the Tropics;
land every seven years on average, and even BUSINESS HOURS Sights & Activities %020-568 87 11; www.kit.nl; Mauritskade 63, 1092 AD
Crown Prince Willem-Alexander took part in As a general rule, opening hours occur as Zaanse Schans (p154) near Amsterdam is a Amsterdam) Intensive language courses aimed specifically
1986, to be greeted by Queen Beatrix at the follows: great afternoon out, with its re-created wind- at foreigners moving to the Netherlands.
finish line. Not surprisingly, the Dutch have Banks Open 9.30am to 4pm Monday to Friday. mill village, traditional Dutch houses, cheese Volksuniversiteit Amsterdam (%020-626 16 26;
had plenty of ice-skating champions. Bars Open 11am to 1am, although some stay open longer farm and craft centre. Further north, the is- www.volksuniversiteitamsterdam.nl; Rapenburgerstraat
at weekends and others wont open for service till the late land of Texel has the Ecomare (p167), with 73, 1011 VK Amsterdam) A range of well-regarded day and
Walking afternoon. oodles of birds and seals and strokeable fish. evening courses.
The Dutch are avid walkers and hikers in Businesses Hours are 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday. A childs fantasies can run wild at De
almost any weather and surroundings. The Nightclubs Hours vary across the country, but in general Efteling amusement park (p275), especially CUSTOMS
International Nijmegen Four Days March clubs open 10pm to 4am Friday and Saturday; some also in the maze or Fairy Tale Forest. Animal parks EU nationals can bring virtually anything they
(Internationale Wandelvierdaagse; p265) is open on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday. abound and the good-natured frolics at the like, provided its for personal use and they
the worlds largest walking event and attracts Post offices Open 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday. Dolfinarium will keep smiles on little faces paid local tax in an EU country. Visitors from
more than 40,000 enthusiasts every July. Restaurants Open 10am or 11am to 11pm, with a break all day long (see the boxed text, p263). The non-EU countries can import the following
For salt breezes you might head for the in the afternoon from 3pm to 6pm. Apenheul will show the little ones what it goods tax-free:
coasts of Friesland, Zeeland or the coastal Shops Open noon to 6pm Monday, and 8.30am or 9am means to really monkey about (see the boxed Alcohol Up to 1L of spirits or 2L of sparkling wine or
towns along the IJsselmeer. National parks to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday. Most towns have koopavond text, p263). fortified wine, such as sherry or port; 2L of non-sparkling
such as Hoge Veluwe, Weerribben and Bies- (evening shopping), when stores open till 9pm on For more ideas, see p21. wine.
bosch offer a varied backdrop ranging from Thursday or Friday. Bigger supermarkets in cities stay open Coffee Up to 500g of coffee or 200g of coffee extracts or
bogs to dunes to forest. The pretty, undulating until 8pm. CLIMATE coffee essences.
knolls of Limburg can be a welcome change In general the Netherlands has a maritime Perfume Up to 50g of perfume and 0.25L of eau de
after the flatlands in the rest of the country. Most museums are closed on Monday. Gov- climate of cool winters and mild summers. toilette.
Thinly populated provinces such as Drenthe ernment offices, private institutions and Wind and rain are year-round factors; March Tea Up to 100g of tea or 40g of tea extracts or tea
are ideal for untroubled treks through quiet monuments keep limited opening hours; is the driest month, July and August the wet- essences.
farmland. these hours are mentioned in this book where test (and hottest), and wind invariably comes Tobacco Up to 200 cigarettes or 250g of tobacco (rolling
Nederlandse Wandelsportbond (Netherlands Hik- possible. from the southwest, although it always seems or pipe tobacco) or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars.
ing Club; %030-231 94 58; www.nwb-wandelen.nl; Pieter- In the city centres an increasing number of to be head-on when youre cycling.
skerkhof 22, Utrecht) is a goldmine of information shops are open from noon to 5pm on Sunday, Bringing meat or meat products, flowers, fruit,
Average
about the nicest paths and events. Branches especially on the first weekend of the month. AMSTERDAM -4m (-13ft) Max/Min plants and protected species to the Nether-
of the ANWB motoring club, tourist offices Shops in Rotterdam and Den Haag are open C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm lands is illegal. Tobacco and alcohol may only
and bookshops have more brochures than you every Sunday afternoon. 40 104 100 6 150
be imported by people aged 17 and over.
can shake a walking stick at. 30 86 80

CHILDREN 20 68 60
4 100 DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Windsurfing & Kite-Surfing Lonely Planets Travel with Children by Cathy Much of the Netherlands is utterly safe, but
10 50
Abundant water and near-constant breezes Lanigan is worth reading if youre unsure 40
2 50 caution is advised in the larger cities. Amster-
make a perfect combination for windsurfing. about travelling with kids. Much of her advice 0 32 20 dam and Rotterdam require a modicum of
Most developed beaches along the coast of the is valid in the Netherlands, where there is a lot -10 14 0 0 0 big-city street sense but nothing you wouldnt
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
North Sea, the IJsselmeer and the Wadden to keep them occupied. Attitudes to children normally do at home.
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Cars with foreign registration are popular I Amsterdam Card (www.iamsterdamcard.com; (Map pp92-3; %020-530 69 69; www.consulfrance Nationale Molendag (National Mill Day) Second
targets for smash-and-grab theft. Dont leave 24/48/72hr 33/43/53) Available at tourist offices and -amsterdam.org; Vijzelgracht 2, Amsterdam) Saturday. Nearly every working windmill in the country
things in the car: remove registration and ID some large hotels in Amsterdam. Gives free public trans- Germany embassy (%070-342 06 00; www.duitse (there are more than 600 in total) throws open its doors to
papers and the radio/stereo if possible. port, free entry to most museums, and discounts on some -ambassade.nl; Groot Hertoginnelaan 18-20, Den Haag); visitors. Look for the sweet blue pennants.
If something is stolen, get a police report attractions and restaurants. consulate (Map pp92-3; %020-574 77 00; Honthorststraat
for insurance purposes but dont expect the International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic 36-38, Amsterdam) June
police to retrieve your property or to ap- .org) Will get some admission discounts and might pay for Ireland (Map p198; %070-363 09 93; Dr Kuijperstraat Holland Festival (www.hollandfestival.nl) Virtually all
prehend the thief put the matter down to itself through discounted air and ferry tickets. The same 9, Den Haag) month. The countrys biggest extravaganza for theatre,
experience. applies to hostel cards. Italy embassy (Map p198; %070-302 10 30; www.italy dance, film and pop music, with a justified claim to
Mosquitoes can be a pain in summer. Museumkaart (www.museumkaart.nl; over/under 26yr .nl; Alexanderstraat 12, Den Haag); consulate (Map pp92-3; cutting-edge innovation.
They breed in stagnant parts of the canals 29.95/17.45) Gives free access to over 400 museums %020-550 20 50; Vijzelstraat 79, Amsterdam) De Parade (www.deparade.nl) Mid-June to August.
and in water under houses. In parts of the across the country. Japan (%070-346 95 44; www.nl.emb-japan.go.jp; Nationwide inverse-circus tour, where the audience is
country near lakes or canals people sleep Tobias Asserlaan 2, Den Haag) in the ring while all manner of music, theatre, film and
under netting. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES New Zealand (%070-346 93 24; www.nzembassy.com; variety performances go on around them.
Bicycles can be quite a challenge to pedes- Dutch Embassies & Consulates Carnegielaan10-IV, Den Haag)
trians. Remember when crossing the street Diplomatic representation abroad: UK embassy (Map p198; %070-427 04 27; www.britain July
to look for speeding bikes as well as cars; Australia (%02-6220 9400; www.netherlands.org.au; .nl; Lange Voorhout 10, Den Haag); consulate (Map pp86-7; North Sea Jazz Festival (www.northseajazz.nl) Mid-
straying into a bike lane without looking both 120 Empire Circuit, Yarralumla, ACT 2600) %020-676 43 43; Koningslaan 44, Amsterdam) July, in Rotterdam. Worlds largest jazz festival; attracts big
ways is a no-no. Belgium (%02-679 17 11; www.nederlandse USA embassy (Map p198; %070-310 22 09; www names from around the planet, and even bigger crowds.
Intensive urban development means theres ambassade.be; Herrmann-Debroux 48, 1160 Brussels) .usembassy.nl; Lange Voorhout 102, Den Haag); consulate Dance Valley (www.dancevalley.nl) Mid-July. This
often little grass for dog dirt, and you may Canada (%613-237-5030; www.netherlandsembassy (Map pp92-3; %020-575 53 09; Museumplein 19, outdoor dance technothon draws over 100 DJs and bands
spend more time watching the pavement than .ca; 350 Albert St, Ste 2020, Ottawa, Ontario K1R 1A4) Amsterdam) performing to fields of 40,000 or more.
the sights. France (%01 40 62 33 00; www.amb-pays-bas.fr; 7-9
Rue Ebl, 75007 Paris) FESTIVALS & EVENTS August
Scams Germany (%030-20 95 60; www.niederlandeweb.de; Following are the cream of the largest and Gay Pride Canal Parade First Saturday. The only water-
Big cities breed scams. Take special care in the Klosterstrasse 50, 10179 Berlin) most important events in the country they borne gay parade in the world, with lots of pride showing
train stations: someone might help you put Ireland (%01-269 3444; www.mfa.nl/dub-en; 160 may well be reason for a special trip. More on the outlandish floats.
your bags into a luggage locker, lock the door Merrion Rd, Dublin 4) goings-on are listed in destination chapters. FFWD Dance Parade (www.ffwdheinekendanceparade
and hand you the key. When you return you Italy (%06-367671; www.mfa.nl/rom-nl; Via della .nl) Downtown Rotterdam lets down its hair in a big
find the key fits a different locker and your Camilluccia, 701-703, 00135 Rome) February/March way and turns into one big open-air techno club in early
stuff is gone. If something feels wrong about Japan (%03-5401 0411; www.oranda.or.jp; Shibakoen, Carnaval Weekend before Shrove Tuesday. Celebrations August.
a stranger who approaches you, chances are 3-6-3 Minato-ku, 105-0011 Tokyo) with gusto that would do Rio or New Orleans proud, mostly Uitmarkt (www.uitmarkt.nl) Three days in late August.
your instincts are right. Thieves sometimes New Zealand (%04-471 6390; www.netherlands in the Catholic provinces of Noord Brabant, Gelderland and The reopening of Amsterdams cultural season with free
pose as police (see p82). embassy.co.nz; Investment House, cnr Ballance & Feather- Limburg. Maastrichts party means days of uninhibited concerts and information booths around the big museums
ston Sts, Wellington) drinking, dancing and street music. and Leidseplein.
DISCOUNT CARDS UK (%020-7590 3200; www.netherlands-embassy.org Lowlands (www.lowlands.nl) Mid-August, in Bidding-
Teachers, professional artists, museum con- .uk; 38 Hyde Park Gate, London SW7 5DP) March huizen (Flevoland). Alternative music and cultural mega-
servators and certain categories of students USA (%202-244-5300; www.netherlands-embassy.org; Tefaf Maastricht Art & Antique Show (%041-164 bash, with campgrounds for the masses.
may get discounts at a few museums or even 4200 Linnean Ave NW, Washington DC 20008) 50 90; www.tefaf.com) For 10 days in the first half of
be admitted free it can depend on the person March. Europes largest art show is your chance to pick up November
behind the counter. Bring proof of affiliation Embassies & Consulates in the a Monet, or at least do some serious browsing. Sinterklaas Intocht Mid-November. Every year the
such as the International Teacher Identity Netherlands Dutch Santa Claus arrives from Spain with his staff and
Card (ITIC). People over 65 (60 for the part- Amsterdam is the countrys capital but, con- April Black Pete helpers at a different port.
ner) receive discounts on public transport, fusingly, Den Haag (The Hague) is the seat of Koninginnedag (Queens Day) On 30 April. Marked
museum entry fees, concerts and more. You government so thats where all the embassies throughout the country with wearing of orange, drinking, and December
could try flashing your home-country senior are. Several countries also maintain consulates flea-market activity. Processions, dances and live music. Sinterklaas On 5 December. Families exchange small gifts
card, but you might have to show your pass- in Amsterdam. Amsterdam Fantastic Film Festival (www.afff.nl) ahead of religious celebrations for Christmas.
port too. Other discount cards: Australia (%070-310 82 00; www.australian-embassy.nl; European and international fantasy, horror and science-
Cultureel Jongeren Paspoort (Cultural Youth Carnegielaan 4, Den Haag) fiction movies. FOOD
Passport, CJP; www.cjp.nl; 12.50) Purchase from tourist Belgium (Map p198; %070-312 34 56; www.diplomatie Prices tend to be high by European standards.
offices. Provides people aged under 27 with big discounts .be/thehague; Alexanderveld 97, Den Haag) May As a general rule, snacks and light takeaway
to museums and cultural events around the country. Canada (Map p198; %070-311 16 00; www.dfait-maeci Herdenkingsdag & Bevrijdingsdag (Remembrance items cost about 3 to 8, while a three-course
Hostelling International Card Useful at the .gc.ca/canadaeuropa/netherlands; Sophialaan 7, Den Haag) Day & Liberation Day) On 4 and 5 May. The fallen from sit-down meal at a midpriced restaurant will
official youth hostels (called Stayokay in the Netherlands); France embassy (Map p198; %070-312 58 00; www WWII are honoured in an Amsterdam ceremony, followed run from 18 to 30 including a beer or a
provides a 2.50 per night discount. .ambafrance.nl; Smidsplein 1, Den Haag); consulate by live music, debate and a market the next day. glass of wine; the bill rises to 40 to 60 at
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the swish top-end places with Michelin stars. The holidays: Youll need to keep three pieces of informa-
Tourist centres such as Amsterdam tend to Nieuwjaarsdag New Years Day; parties and fireworks tion handy: your incoming (POP or IMAP) LEGAL AGE
be expensive and you may get much better galore mail server name, your account name and Voting and driving: 18
value for money out in the provinces. Ethnic Goede Vrijdag Good Friday your password. Wi-fi is another option, but Consent: 12 (but 16 if the parents object)
eateries, particularly with Surinamese and Eerste Paasdag Easter Sunday youll generally need to be signed up with a Homosexual marriage: 18
Chinese-Indonesian menus, are a reliable Tweede Paasdag Easter Monday Dutch provider, which isnt cheap. Drinking: 16
stand-by for cheap and tasty food. Koninginnedag 30 April. Queens Day Otherwise internet cafs are the easiest way
See p59 for more details. Bevrijdingsdag 5 May; Liberation Day this isnt a to check mail while travelling; theyre every-
universal holiday: government workers have the day off, where and often have long opening hours. crime, but under the unique Dutch drug policy
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS but almost everyone else has to work Some libraries, tourist offices and hotels also the authorities tend to treat genuine, registered
The best national source of information is Hemelvaartsdag Ascension Day; 40th day after Easter provide internet terminals. Expect to pay any- addicts as medical cases rather than hardened
COC (%020-623 45 96; www.coc.nl; Rozenstraat 8, 1016 Sunday thing from 1.50 to 6 per hour. criminals.
NX Amsterdam). It has branches throughout the Eerste Pinksterdag Whit Sunday (Pentecost); 50th day These tolerant policies attract many drug
country that are happy to offer advice to new- after Easter Sunday LEGAL MATTERS tourists; drugs are cheaper, more readily avail-
comers. Tweede Pinksterdag Whit Monday; 50th day after The Dutch police (politie) are a pretty relaxed able and generally of better quality in the
Partisan estimates put the proportion of Easter Monday lot and helpful to travellers. Youre unlikely Netherlands than elsewhere. The country has
gay and lesbian people in Amsterdam at 20% Eerste Kerstdag 25 December; Christmas Day to incite their ire unless you do something become a major exporter of high-grade mari-
to 30%. This is probably an exaggeration, but Tweede Kerstdag 26 December; Boxing Day instinctively wrong like chucking litter or juana (grown locally) and is the European
Amsterdam is certainly one of the gay capitals smoking a joint under their noses. centre for the production of ecstasy. Much of
of Europe. Mainstream attitudes have always School Holidays Officers can hold you up to six hours for Europes cocaine passes through Rotterdam
been reasonably tolerant, but it wasnt until School holidays are staggered across three questioning and another six if they cant es- harbour.
the early 1970s that the age of consent for gay regions (north, central and south) to relieve tablish your identity. If the matters serious, For more about soft drugs, see the boxed
sex was lowered to 16. The last decade has congestion on the roads. Generally the holi- you can be detained for 24 hours. You wont text, p44.
seen considerable progress: its now illegal to days are scheduled as follows: have the right to a phone call, but theyll notify
discriminate against job-seekers on the basis Spring holiday Two weeks in mid-February, also known your embassy or consulate. Relax youre Prostitution
of sexual orientation. A landmark move came as crocus holiday presumed innocent until proven guilty. Prostitution is legal in the Netherlands
in 2001, when the Netherlands became the May holiday First week of the month Anyone over 14 years of age is required by based on the view that its practitioners are
first country to legalise same-sex marriage. Summer holiday July, August and sometimes the first law to carry ID. Foreigners should carry their victims rather than criminals. The industry
The government has long subsidised COC, few days of September passport or a photocopy of the relevant data is protected by law, and prostitutes pay tax
one of the worlds largest (and the worlds first) Autumn holiday Second half of October pages; a driving licence isnt sufficient. and even have their own lobby. Health checks
organisations for gay and lesbian rights. Now Christmas holiday Two weeks through the first full are performed regularly to screen for disease,
trade unions research the lot of homosexual week of January Drugs and some prostitutes qualify for pensions and
employees, the police advertise in the gay media Contrary to what you may have heard, mari- insurance. Much of this open policy stems
for applicants, and homosexuals are admitted to INSURANCE juana is illegal. The confusion arises because from a desire to undermine the role of pimps
the armed forces on an equal footing. Seriously consider taking out travel insur- the authorities distinguish between soft drugs and the underworld in the sex industry. That
Amsterdams well-developed scene isnt ance. Medical or dental costs might already (eg cannabis) and addictive hard drugs such hasnt always helped the plight of prostitutes,
typical of the country as a whole. The further be covered through reciprocal health-care as heroin, crack or cocaine. Possession of soft many of them immigrants from the Third
one gets from the capital, the more often gay arrangements, but youll still need cover for drugs up to 5g is tolerated, but larger amounts World and Eastern Europe.
and lesbian bars and clubs operate behind theft or loss, and for unexpected changes to make you a dealer and subject to prosecu- In Amsterdams Red Light District you
dark windows. Rotterdam is an exception, travel arrangements (ticket cancellation etc). tion. However, if youre caught with, say, 10g, have little to fear as the streets are well-
as are the university towns with large, albeit Check whats already covered by your local youll probably only receive a fine. policed, but the back alleys are more dubious.
transient, gay and lesbian populations. insurance policies or credit-card issue. The key term is gedogen. This wonderful This also goes for other Dutch cities such as
See also the Insurance sections of the word means that officials condemn the ac- Rotterdam and Den Haag. Even towns such
HOLIDAYS Health chapter (p311) and the Transport tion but look the other way if common sense as Leiden and Groningen have red-light areas
Public Holidays chapter (p306). dictates. Hard drugs are treated as a serious plopped down amid otherwise quiet streets.
People take public holidays seriously. Most
museums adopt Sunday hours on the days INTERNET ACCESS MAPS
below (except Christmas and New Year) even If you pack a laptop, note that Dutch phones WARNING The maps in this book will probably suffice.
if they fall on a day when the place would have a cord with a four-prong plug. Adapters Never, ever buy drugs on the street: youll Lonely Planets handy Amsterdam City Map
otherwise be closed. Many people treat Re- are available at the airport and retail outlets. get ripped off or mugged. is plastic-coated for the elements and has
membrance Day (4 May) as a day off. Most phones also have a modular RJ-11 plug Dont light up in view of the police, or in a street index that covers the most popular
Carnaval is celebrated with vigour in the on the other end, so you can always plug an establishment without checking that its parts of the city.
Catholic south. Huge lager-fed parties are right into your modem. Major internet service OK to do so. The Dutch detest tourists who Otherwise the best road maps of the Neth-
thrown in the run-up to Shrove Tuesday and providers such as AOL, AT&T and Earth- think they can just smoke dope anywhere. erlands are those produced by Michelin and
little work gets done. link have access numbers in the Netherlands. the Dutch automobile association ANWB.
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The ANWB also puts out provincial maps To withdraw money at a bank counter Travellers Cheques back home, but not an entire shop devoted
detailing cycling paths and picturesque road instead of from an ATM, go to a GWK branch Travellers cheques (including eurocheques) to them.
routes. Youll find a wide variety of maps for (see Moneychangers, below). Youll need to are on the way out in the Netherlands youll Dutch bicycles may also catch the eye of
sale at any tourist office, as well as at book- show your passport. be very hard pressed to find a bank who will shoppers. Prices are generally comparable to
stores and newsstands. Report lost or stolen cards to the following change them for you. If you insist on carrying those in other European countries, but the
24-hour numbers: cheques, take American Express or Thomas variety from lazy cruisers and kiddie carri-
MONEY American Express (%020-504 80 00, 020-504 86 66) Cook: their offices dont charge commission. ers to stream-lined, space-age speedsters is
Like other members of the EU, the Nether- Diners Club (%08000334) GWK offices (see Moneychangers, opposite) quite astounding and very tempting, consid-
lands currency is the euro, which is divided Eurocard and MasterCard (%030-283 55 55) still exchange cheques. ering how easy it is to transport your new
into 100 cents. There are coins for one, two, Visa (%08000223110) Shops, restaurants and hotels always prefer transport on trains and planes.
five, 10, 20 and 50 cents, and 1 and 2. Notes cash; a few might accept travellers cheques,
come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, International Transfers but their rates will be anybodys guess. SOLO TRAVELLERS
100, 200 and 500. The one- and two-cent Transferring money from your home bank The Dutch are uninhibited when it comes to
coins are still in circulation but are unofficially will be easier if youve authorised somebody POST striking up conversations with complete stran-
being phased out; most, if not all, shops now back home to access your account. In the Poste restante is best handled in Amsterdam. gers, whether at the next table in a restaurant or
round up or down to the nearest five cents. Netherlands, find a large bank and ask for Unless youre sending mail within the post in a supermarket queue, and before you know
The Quick Reference page just inside the the international division. A commission is offices local region, the slot to use in the rec- it youll find yourself in a conversation.
front cover lists exchange rates, while the charged on telegraphic transfers, which can tangular red letter boxes is Overige Postcodes Booking into a group activity such as a
Getting Started chapter (p12) has a rundown take up to a week but usually less if youre well (Other Postal Codes). walking tour or boat trip is a good recipe
of costs. prepared; by mail, allow two weeks. For queries about postal services, ring for making contacts. Young travellers also
The GWK (see Moneychangers, below) is %058-233 33 33 or consult www.tpgpost.nl. hook up with like-minded people at youth
ATMs an agent for Western Union and money is hostels or budget hotels. Nightclubs in cities
Automated teller machines can be found transferred within 15 minutes of lodgement at Postal Rates such as Amsterdam and Rotterdam draw a
outside most banks and at airports and most the other end. The person lodging the transfer Within the country, letters up to 20g and large, fun-loving contingent of foreigners,
train stations. Credit cards such as Visa and pays a commission that varies from country postcards cost 0.39. Letters up to 20g and and many also make their way to beach par-
MasterCard/Eurocard are widely accepted, to country. Money can also be transferred via postcards within Europe cost 0.69 (air mail, ties in places like Bloemendaal or Scheve-
as well as cash cards that access the Cirrus American Express and Thomas Cook at their known as priority) or 0.65 (standard); be- ningen. Single women should try to join
network. Be aware that, if youre limited to a Amsterdam offices. yond Europe they are 0.85 or 0.80. forces before hitting the clubs thats what
maximum withdrawal per day, the day will Standard mail (also available within Europe the Dutch do.
coincide with that in your home country. Also Moneychangers for parcels and printed matter) is not much
note that using an ATM can be the cheapest Generally your best bet for exchanging money cheaper than priority and takes about twice TELEPHONE
way to exchange your money from home is to use GWK (%09000566; www.gwk.nl) note that as long to reach the destination. The Dutch phone network is efficient and
but check with your home bank for service calls to this number cost 0.25 per minute. prices are reasonable by European standards.
charges before you leave. Offices are in almost every medium-sized and SHOPPING Most public phones accept credit cards as well
larger train station as well as at the borders The Netherlands isnt a shoppers haven; as various phonecards. Phone booths are scat-
Cash on major highways. Many locations, such as theres not a lot in the country that you tered around towns and you can always call
Cash is still common and nothing beats it for those at Amsterdams Centraal Station and at wont find back home, aside from dope, por- from a post office.
convenience or risk of theft or loss. Plan to Schiphol Airport, are open 24 hours. Banks nography, round after round of cheese, rare For national directory inquiries, call %118
pay cash for most daily expenses. However, and the Postbank (at post offices) are also flower bulbs and even rarer types of jenever (1.09 per call) or %09008008 for a human
staff at upmarket hotels might cast a fur- good options; they stick to official exchange (Dutch gin). Even the majority of the ubiq- operator (1.30 per call). International direc-
tive glance if you pay a huge bill with small- rates and charge a sensible commission. uitous Delftware blue-and-white porcelain tory inquiries can be reached on %09008418
denomination notes rather than a credit card, Avoid the private exchange booths dotted stocked in every single souvenir shop is (0.90 per minute). To place a collect gesprek
and car-rental agencies will probably refuse to around tourist areas. Theyre convenient and made in China. Clogs, on the other hand, are (collect call) ring %08000101 (0.25 per
do business if you only have cash. Keep the open late hours, but rates or commissions are one item you normally wont find outside the minute).
equivalent of about US$100 separate from the lousy, though competition is fierce and you Netherlands, but theyre available in almost
rest of your money as an emergency stash. may do OK if you hunt around. every town across the country. Mobile Phones
However, Amsterdam is a diamond in the The Netherlands uses GSM 900/1800, which
Credit Cards Tipping rough, so to speak. For centuries it has been a is compatible with the rest of Europe and
All major international cards are recognised, Tipping is not essential as restaurants, hotels, centre for a girls best friend, and while prices Australia but not with the North American
and you will find that most hotels, restaurants bars etc include a service charge on their bills. arent necessarily cheaper here than elsewhere, GSM 1900 (though some North Americans
and major stores accept them. But always A little extra is always welcomed though, and diamond quality is high and prices are at least have dual- or triple-band phones that do work
check first to avoid, as they say, disappoint- its an excellent way to compliment the service competitive. here). Check with your service provider about
ment. Shops often levy a 5% surcharge (or (if you feel it needs complimenting). The tip The capital is also filled with speciality using your phone in the Netherlands, and
more) on credit cards to offset the commis- can be anything from rounding up to the shops. You might be able to find banana- beware of calls being routed internationally,
sions charged by card providers. nearest euro, to 10% of the bill. flavoured condoms and Mexican shrines which becomes very expensive.
DIREC TORY 296 D I R E C T O R Y Ti m e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y V i s a s 297

DIREC TORY
Prepaid mobile phones are available at mo- you say half eight (8.30 in many forms of shapes on the corners for identification. Neth- WOMEN TRAVELLERS
bile shops from 40. Packages with prepaid English), a Dutch person will take this to mean erlands Railways (%030-235 78 22) has an infor- Theres little street harassment in Dutch cities,
SIM cards are an excellent option KPN, 7.30. Dutch also uses constructions such as mation line with details of all its services for where most women will feel safe. Amsterdam
Telfort, Orange, T-Mobile and Vodaphone tien voor half acht (ten to half eight 7.20) and travellers with disabilities. The Dutch national is probably as secure as it gets in the major cit-
offer cards from 10 with 5 worth of calls. kwart over acht (quarter past eight 8.15). organisation for the disabled is ANGO (Algemene ies of Europe. Just take care in the Red Light
Make sure your phone is unlocked before Nederlandse Gehandicapten Organisatie, Dutch Society for District, where its best to walk with a friend
purchasing such a card. TOURIST INFORMATION the Disabled; %033-465 43 43; www.ango.nl; Koningin to minimise unwelcome attention.
Within the Netherlands, tourist information Wilhelminalaan 17, 3818 HM Amersfoort); the blind and The feminist movement is less politicised
Phone Codes is supplied by the VVV (Vereniging voor Vreemdelingen- deaf can contact LED (Landelijk Expertisecentrum Doof- than elsewhere and certainly more laid-back.
The international access code is 0. Area codes verkeer, Netherlands Tourism Board; www.vvv.nl), which blindheid, Association for the Deaf & Blind; %030-267 92 88; Efforts focus on practical solutions such as
for the Dutch cities covered in this book are has offices throughout the country. Although www.doofblind.nl; Vrieslantlaan 3A, 3526 AA Utrecht). cultural centres, bicycle repair shops run by
given at the start of each citys section. The each tourist office is locally run, they all have and for women, or support systems to help
country code for the Netherlands is %31. a huge amount of information that covers VISAS women set up businesses.
Many information services use phone not just their area but the rest of the country Tourists from nearly 60 countries including Most womens organisations are based in
numbers beginning with %0800 (free) or as well. However, most VVV publications Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, South Korea, Amsterdam, among them Rutgershuis Amster-
%0900 (which cost between 0.10 and 0.70 cost money and there are commissions for New Zealand, Singapore, the USA and most dam (%020-624 54 26; Sarphatistraat 618), a clinic
per minute depending on the number). services (eg 3 to 15 to find a room, 2 to of Europe need only a valid passport to visit offering information and help with sexual
Numbers beginning with %06 are mobile 3 on theatre tickets). The VVV information line the Netherlands for up to three months. EU problems and birth control, including the
or pager numbers. (%09004004040; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) costs 0.55 nationals can enter for three months with just morning-after pill. Elsewhere, look under
per minute. People ringing from abroad their national identity card. Vrouwenhuis (Womens House) in the phone
Phonecards should try %020-551 25 25 (no extra charge). Nationals of most other countries need directory.
Most public telephones are cardphones and See the individual city listings for details of a so-called Schengen visa, named after the
theres no shortage of prepaid cards to fill local services as well as opening hours. Schengen Agreement that abolished pass- WORK
them. Various cards are available at post of- The Dutch automobile association ANWB port controls between the EU member states All-important work permits must be applied
fices, train station counters, tourist and GWK (%08000503; www.anwb.nl; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) has (except the UK and Ireland) plus Norway for by your employer in the Netherlands; in
offices, supermarkets, and tobacco shops for free or discounted maps and brochures. It and Iceland. A visa for any of these countries general, the employer must prove that the
5, 10 and 20. Other cards are available at provides a wide range of useful information is valid for 90 days within a period of six position cannot be filled by someone from
call centres, internet shops and street vendors, and assistance if youre travelling with any months. Some countries may impose restric- within the EU before offering it to a non-
but be sure of their authenticity before handing type of vehicle (car, bicycle, motorcycle, yacht tions on some nationalities. EU citizen. Nationals from many countries
over cash readers have reported dodgy cards etc). In many cities the VVV and ANWB Schengen visas are issued by Dutch em- must apply for a Temporary Entry Permit
that eat your money in a matter of minutes. share offices. Youll probably have to show bassies or consulates and can be valid for (Machtiging tot Voorlopig Verblijf, or MVV).
KPNs cards are the most common, but proof of membership of your home auto- anything from a few days to two months. Citizens of EU countries as well as Australia,
railway stations only have Telfort phone mobile club. Its offices are open until 9pm Youll need a passport valid until at least three Canada, Iceland, Japan, Monaco, New Zea-
booths that require a Telfort card (available during koopavond (evening shopping), which months after your visit, and you must be able land, Norway, Switzerland and the USA are
at GWK offices or ticket counters), although is on Thursday or Friday night, depending to prove that you have sufficient funds for exempt.
there should be KPN booths close by. on the city. your stay. Fees vary depending on your na- Youll need to apply for temporary resi-
The official, KPN-Telecom public phone tionality, but expect to pay around 35. Tour- dence before an employer can ask for your
boxes charge 0.10 per 20 seconds for national TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES ist visas can be extended for another three work permit. The process should take five
calls. Phones in cafs, supermarkets and hotel Travellers with mobility problems will find the months maximum, but youll need a good weeks; contact the Dutch embassy or consu-
lobbies often charge more. Ringing a mobile Netherlands fairly well equipped despite the reason and the extension will only be valid for late in your home country.
number costs 0.55 per minute from a public limitations of some older buildings. A large the Netherlands, not the Schengen area. In the Netherlands residence permits are
phone. number of government offices and museums Visa extensions are handled by the Im- issued by the Immigratie en Naturalisatiedienst
have lifts or ramps; many hotels, however, are migratie en Naturalisatiedienst (Immigration & Natu- (Immigration & Naturalisation Service; % 020-889 30
TIME in old buildings where steep, narrow stairs are ralisation Service; %020-889 3045, 09001234561; www.ind 45; www.ind.nl; Postbus 30125, 2500 GC Den Haag).
The Netherlands is on Central European time, the only option. Restaurants tend to be on the .nl); call it about visa extensions for anywhere For details of work permits, contact the CWI
GMT/UTC plus one hour. Noon in Amster- ground floor, though they sometimes include in the country (the 0900 number costs 0.10 (Centrum voor Werk en Inkomen, Employment Services
dam is 11am in London, 6am in New York, a few steps up or down. per minute). Study visas must be applied for Authority; % 079-371 29 03; www.cwinet.nl; Postbus
3am in San Francisco, 6am in Toronto, 9pm Train and other public transport stations via your college or university in the Nether- 883, 2700 AW Zoetermeer). The CWI also runs
in Sydney and 11pm in Auckland, and then have lifts, and most train stations and public lands. For information about working visas, www.werk.nl, which features up-to-date
theres daylight-saving time. Clocks are put buildings have toilets for the disabled. The see right. job offers.
forward one hour at 2am on the last Sunday trains themselves have wheelchair access in
in March and back again at 3am on the last most instances, and people with a disability
Sunday in October. get discounts on public transport. For those
When telling the time, beware that Dutch with impaired vision, train timetables are
uses half to indicate half before the hour. If published in Braille and banknotes have raised
 298 www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r 299

Transport CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.

CONTENTS GETTING THERE & AWAY Flying & climate change

Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
Getting There & Away 298 ENTERING THE COUNTRY climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer
Entering the Country 298 Passport distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at-
Air 298 In principle all passengers with passports are mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and
Land 301 allowed entry to the Netherlands, although the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average households gas and electricity
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Sea 303 those coming from suspected terrorist cen- consumption over a whole year.
Getting Around 304 tres may be detained for questioning.
Air 304
Bicycle 304 AIR Carbon offset schemes
Climatecare.org and other websites use carbon calculators that allow travellers to offset the
Boat 304 Airports & Airlines
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
Bus 305 Conveniently near Amsterdam, Schiphol Air-
travel schemes that reduce global warming including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
Car & Motorcycle 305 port (code AMS; %020-794 08 00; www.schiphol.nl) is
and Uganda.
Hitching 306 the Netherlands main international airport
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry,
Local Transport 306 and the third busiest in Europe. It is the
supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff
Tours 307 seat of Dutch passenger carrier KLM, and
and author travel.
Train 308 dozens of other airlines have direct flights
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.
and connections to all continents. Rotterdam
The Netherlands is an extraordinarily simple Airport (code RTM; %010-446 34 44; www.rotterdam
place to reach. Amsterdams Schiphol Airport -airport.nl) is much smaller but has handy links
has copious air links worldwide, including to the UK, Germany and Mediterranean Cathay Pacific (code CX; %653 20 10; www.cathay United Airlines (code UA; %201 37 08; www.united
many on low-cost European airlines, and the destinations. pacific.nl; Evert van der Beekstraat 18, Schiphol) airlines.nl; Vertrekpassage 246, Schiphol)
links on high-speed trains are especially good Eindhoven, Groningen and Maastricht act China Airlines (code CI; %646 10 01; www.china-air
from France, Belgium and Germany. Other as feeder airports to Amsterdam, catering lines.com; De Boelelaan 7, Amsterdam) Tickets
land options are user-friendly and the border to business travellers and holiday charters Continental Airlines (code CO; %346 93 81; www Within Europe there are plenty of no-frills air-
crossings are nearly invisible thanks to the EU. to sunny climes. From Eindhoven (code EIN; .continental.com; Schiphol Blvd 275, Schiphol) lines connecting Amsterdams Schiphol Airport
There are also several ferry links with the UK %040-291 98 18; www.eindhovenairport.com), Ryanair Delta Air Lines (code DL; %201 35 36; www.delta.com; to other cities, and more often than not their
and Scandinavia. serves London, Dublin, Milan and a hand- Evert van der Beekstraat 7, Schiphol) bargain flights can be found online rather than
Whats more, once you get to the Nether- ful of Mediterranean cities, while KLM flies El Al (code LY; %644 01 01; www.elal.com; Prof through a travel agent. For long-haul flights the
lands the transport stays hassle-free. Most to/from London and Paris. Bavincklaan 5, Amstelveen) opposite is true agents are a valuable source
journeys by rail, car or bus are so short that EasyJet (code U2; %023-568 48 80; www.easyjet.com; for tracking down cheaper flights between con-
you can reach most regional destinations AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM THE Antareslaan 35, Hoofddorp) tinents. Stable travel agents, such as STA Travel
before your next meal. And with a country NETHERLANDS Japan Airlines (code JL; %305 00 75; www.jal-europe (www.statravel.com) and Trailfinders (www.trailfinders
as flat as this, getting around by bicycle is Unless otherwise stated, dial %020 before .com; Jozef Israelskade 48E, Amsterdam) .com), offer good prices to many destinations.
a dream. calling the numbers below. Jet2.com (code LS; %09002021067; www.jet2.com) Below is a short list of sites that sell air
Aer Lingus (code EI; %517 47 47; www.aerlingus.com; KLM (code KL; %474 77 47; www.klm.nl; Amsterdamse- tickets to/from Schiphol Airport:
Folkstoneweg 28, Schiphol) weg 55, Amstelveen) Ebookers (www.ebookers.com) Offers separate web
THINGS CHANGE Air Canada (code AC; %346 95 39; www.aircanada.ca; Lufthansa (code LH; %09001234777; www.lufthansa gateways for many European countries and bargains on
The information in this chapter is particu- Evert van de Beekstraat 5, Schiphol) .nl; Vertrekpassage 1, Schiphol) flights and hotels.
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly Air France (code AF; %654 57 20; www.airfrance.nl; Malaysia Airlines (code MH; %521 62 62; www Expedia (www.expedia.com, www.expedia.co.uk) Lists
with the airline or a travel agent to make Evert van der Beekstraat 7; Schiphol) .malaysiaairlines.com; Weteringschans 24/A, Amsterdam) major airline flights from the US and UK; the earlier you
sure you understand how a fare (and ticket Alitalia (code AZ; %676 44 79; www.alitalia.com; Evert Northwest Airlines (code NW; %474 77 47; www book the better.
you may buy) works and be aware of the van de Beekstraat 9, Schiphol) .nwa.com; Amsterdamseweg 55, Amstelveen) Flight Centre (www.flightcentre.com) Respected opera-
security requirements for international Austrian (code OS; %09002658920; www.aua.com; Ryanair (code FL; %09002022184; www.ryanair.com; tor handling direct flights, with sites for Australia, New
travel. Shop carefully. The details given in Evert van de Beekstraat 37, Schiphol) Vertrekpassage 1, Schiphol) Zealand, the UK, the US and Canada.
this chapter should be regarded as point- British Airways (code BA; %346 95 59; www.british Singapore Airlines (code SQ; %548 88 88; www Last Minute (www.lastminute.com) One of the better
ers and are not a substitute for your own airways.com) .singaporeair.com; Evert van de Beekstraat 26, Schiphol) sites for last-minute deals, including hotels.
careful, up-to-date research. British Midland (code BD; %346 92 11; www.flybmi Transavia (code HV; %09000737; www.transavia Opodo (www.opodo.co.uk) UK-based company with
.com; Vertrekpassage 1, Schiphol) .com) excellent deals for European destinations.
 300 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d 301

Orbitz (www.orbitz.com) Cheap deals when flying from but shop around as there are often good deals STA Travel (%01803100040; www.statravel.de) Germany. low of US$300/500 from the east coast/west
the US. on offer. Viaggi Wasteels (%06 446 66 79) Italy. coast in winter to a high of US$700/900 in
Price Line (www.priceline.com) Name-your-own-price Quite a few travel offices specialise in dis- Voyageurs du Monde (%01 42 86 16 00; www.vdm summer.
US site. count air tickets. Some travel agents, particu- .com) France. Discount travel agents in the USA are
Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.net) Collates cheap no- larly smaller ones, advertise cheap air fares in known as consolidators (although you
frills airline fares for many destinations around the world. the travel sections of weekend newspapers, New Zealand probably wont see a sign on the door say-
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) US site that allows such as the Age in Melbourne and the Sydney Reaching Amsterdam from Auckland means ing Consolidator). The New York Times,
you to search fares (in US dollars) to/from practically Morning Herald in Sydney. you have a choice of transiting though Los the Los Angeles Times, the Chicago Tribune
anywhere. Contact STA Travel (%03-9207 5900; www.statravel Angeles or via a Southeast Asian city, and and the San Francisco Chronicle all produce
Vliegtarieven (www.vliegtarieven.nl) Dutch site with .com.au) for the location of branches. Flight Cen- usually one other European city. Low season Sunday travel sections in which you will find
hotel and car-rental deals alongside flights. tre (%133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au) has offices return fares start from around US$2000. consolidators ads.
WaarheenWaarvoor (www.waarheenwaarvoor.nl) throughout Australia. For online bookings, Both Flight Centre (%0800243544; www.flight STA Travel (%1-800-781-4040; www.statravel.com)
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
Dutch site offering flight-price comparisons and last- try www.travel.com.au. centre.co.nz) and STA Travel (%0508782872; www.sta is one of the biggest travel agents in the US,
minute deals. travel.co.nz) have branches throughout the country. with offices in most states.
Canada For on-line bookings try www.travel.co.nz.
Africa Air Canada, among others, serves Amsterdam LAND
KLM has numerous services to Africa, in- from Toronto. Fares vary from C$400 in win- UK & Ireland Bicycle
cluding daily flights to Johannesburg, Dar ter to C$700 in summer. KLM, British Airways and British Midland In a land where the humble bicycle is king,
es Salaam and Nairobi. Kenya Airways also Canadian discount air ticket sellers are also fly to the Netherlands from the UK. Budget bringing your own bike into the Netherlands
offers daily links to the countrys capital. From known as consolidators. The Globe & Mail, airlines EasyJet, Ryanair and Jet2.com do too, will cause no problems.
Johannesburg, low-season return fares to Am- Toronto Star, Montreal Gazette and Vancou- and have made big inroads into the business By air, its possible to first take your bicycle
sterdam can start at around R5480 (645) but ver Sun carry travel agents ads and are good of the mainstream carriers. Watch for special apart and protect it with a bike bag or box be-
can be considerably higher if not booked well places to look for cheap fares. fares that can be as low as UK1 for a single fore handing it over to the baggage handlers,
in advance. Travel CUTS (%1866-246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) (plus tax), although 40 to 60 is more likely but its much easier simply to wheel your
Rennies Travel (www.renniestravel.com) and STA is Canadas national student travel agency and in peak periods. bike to the check-in desk, where it should be
Travel (www.statravel.co.za) have offices throughout has offices in all major cities. Ticket discounters, or bucket shops as treated as a piece of baggage. You may have
Southern Africa. Check their websites for theyre known in the UK, can sometimes offer to remove the pedals and turn the handlebars
branch locations. Continental Europe big savings. Discount air travel is big busi- sideways so that it takes up less space in the
Amsterdam is well connected to almost all ness in London, and advertisements for many aircrafts hold; check all this with the airline
Asia other European cities. KLM and the major travel agents appear in the travel pages of the well in advance, preferably before you pay
The major Asian airlines, such as Singapore airlines of each country all serve each other. weekend broadsheets, such as the Independent for your ticket.
Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines and You should be able to find return fares from on Saturday and the Sunday Times. Also look Your bike can also travel with you on the
Malaysia Airlines, have flights into Amster- the major hub airports such as Copenha- out for free magazines such as TNT. Eurostar and Thalys high-speed trains from
dam. KLM links Jakarta with the capital. gen, Frankfurt, Paris and Madrid for 100 Popular travel agencies include STA Travel Belgium, France and the UK, provided you
Although most flights are via another Euro- to 200. (%08701630026; www.statravel.co.uk), with offices can disassemble the bike and fit it into a stow-
pean capital, there are some direct links to Generally, there is not much variation in throughout the UK. It sells tickets to all trav- age bag that will fit into the normal luggage-
Amsterdam. Its a good idea to shop around airfare prices for departures from the main ellers but caters especially to young people storage racks on board.
as there are often some good deals on offer. European cities. All the major airlines are and students. Other recommended agencies If you want to bring your own bike, con-
From Bangkok, return fares to Amsterdam are usually offering some sort of deal, and travel include Trailfinders (%0845-050 5940; www.trail sider the risk of theft in Amsterdam rental
around US$1500. Return fares from Singapore agents generally have a number of promotions finders.com) and Travelbag (%08706070620; www might be the wiser option in the capital.
start at US$850; expect to pay from US$1250 on offer, so shop around. .travelbag.co.uk).
from Hong Kong and US$1100 from Tokyo Across Europe dozens of travel agencies From Ireland, fares run from about 150 Bus
for a return fare. have ties with STA Travel (www.statravel.com), in low season for return flights from Dublin Amsterdam and Rotterdam, and a few of
STA Travel (Bangkok %0662-236 0262; www.statravel where cheap tickets can be purchased and to Amsterdam, but can cost twice that (and Hollands smaller cities such as Den Haag
.co.th; Hong Kong %852-2736 1618; www.statravel.com. STA-issued tickets can be altered (usually for sometimes more) in high season. Travelling and Utrecht, are well connected to the rest
hk; Singapore %65-6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg; Tokyo a US$25 fee). via London may save money. USIT (%01-602 of Europe and North Africa by long-distance
%03-5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp) is always a good Recommended are the following travel 1904; www.usitnow.ie) has branches in Ireland and bus. See p302 for information on buses to and
bet in Asia. agents: Northern Ireland specialising in student and from Germany and p303 for details on buses
Airstop (%070 233 188; www.airstop.be) Belgium. independent travel. to and from the UK.
Australia CTS Viaggi (%06 462 04 31; www.cts.it) Italy. The most extensive European bus network
Flights from Australia to Amsterdam gener- Just Travel (%089-747 3330; www.justtravel.de) USA is maintained by Eurolines (www.eurolines.com),
ally go via a Southeast Asian capital such as Germany. Continental Airlines, Delta Air Lines, a consortium of coach operators. It offers a
Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok or Singapore, and Nouvelles Frontires (%0825 000 747; www Northwest Airlines and United Airlines all variety of passes with prices that vary by time
occasionally another European city. Expect .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) France. have nonstop services to Amsterdam from of year, but if you book well ahead bargains
to pay around A$2000 return in low season, OTU Voyages (%0820 817 817; www.otu.fr) France. cities in the US. Fares vary by season, from a can be had.
 302 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY S e a 303

Car & Motorcycle LF4 stretches 300km from Enschede near the to Antwerp (28, 2 hours, hourly), Bruges details, see below). Le Shuttle express trains
For details about car ferries from England, German border to Den Haag. (39.40, 3 hours, hourly), Brussels (33.40, will take vehicles from the UK to France,
see opposite. Beware that mopeds also use bike paths and three hours, hourly) and Luxembourg City from where you can drive to the Netherlands
Drivers of cars and riders of motorbikes might be travelling well above their 40km/h (63.60, 6 hours, every one to two hours). (see below).
will need the vehicles registration papers, speed limit (30km/h in built-up areas). Only The second train, the high-speed Thalys,
third-party insurance and an international competition cyclists and poseurs tend to wear runs six times a day between Amsterdam and TRAIN
driving permit in addition to their domestic bicycle helmets, but that shouldnt stop you Antwerp (28, 2 hours), Brussels (33.40, Rail Europe (%08708371371; www.raileurope.co.uk) will
licence. Its a good idea to also have complete from protecting your own cranium. 2 hours) and Paris (97.50, 4 hours). get you from London to Amsterdam on the
insurance coverage be sure to ask for a Repair shops are as common as frites ven- Those under 26 receive a 50% discount, and highly civilised Eurostar service from Water-
Green Card from your insurer. dors in the Netherlands most train sta- seniors with a Rail Europe Senior (RES) card loo Station through the Channel Tunnel to
The ANWB (p296) provides a wide range tions even have a bicycle shop with a resident are entitled to 25% off travel. Only a handful Brussels, with an onward Thalys connection
of information, maps, advice and services mechanic. of tickets are set aside for such discounts, so from there. The quickest connection will take
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TRANSPORT
if you can show a letter of introduction or For select cycling routes, see p69. it is essential to book ahead. around 6 hours and starts from UK90 re-
membership card from your own automobile The German ICE high-speed service runs turn in 2nd class with special deals. A bicycle
association. BUS six times a day between Amsterdam and Co- costs UK20 one way unless it is in a bike bag,
Traffic flows freely among EU countries, Aside from Eurolines (see p301), Gullivers logne (49.20, 2 hours) and on to Frankfurt in which case it is classed as hand luggage.
so border posts are largely a thing of the past. Reisen (% 030-3110 2110; www.gullivers.de) links (107, four hours); theres a surcharge of 2 Eurotunnel (%08705353535; www.eurotunnel.com)
Customs officials still make spot checks, Berlin (one way/return from 29/58, nine and 19 respectively. Super Day Returns are runs a drive-on, drive off shuttle linking
however, if a particular vehicle draws their hours, once daily), Hamburg (from 19/38, available to Cologne for 58.50. Theres also a Folkstone, UK, to Calais, France, on a 35-
attention. eight hours, once daily) and Hanover (from night train between Amsterdam and Munich minute journey via the Channel Tunnel. One-
19/38, 5 hours, once daily) with Amster- (from 79) expect fat surcharges for the way journeys for cars/motorcycles cost from
Hitching dam. Sleeper coach beds are available for an- sleeper berths. The IC to Berlin (92.20, six UK49/24 with advance reservations.
Hitching is never entirely safe anywhere in other 10 a wise investment. hours, three daily) passes through Hanover. The Dutch Flyer (%08705455455; www.dutchflyer
the world and we dont recommend it. Trav- Weekend return tickets are much cheaper .co.uk) is one of the cheapest ways to reach
ellers who decide to hitch should understand CAR & MOTORCYCLE than during the week. A weekend return the Netherlands from the UK. Trains from
that they are taking a small but potentially The main entry points from Belgium are the AmsterdamBrussels (departure Friday to London (Liverpool Street Station), Cambridge
serious risk. E22 (AntwerpBreda) and the E25 (Liege Sunday, return by Monday) is 40% cheaper and Norwich connect with ferries sailing
Many Dutch students have a government- Maastricht). From Germany there are loads than a regular ticket. from Harwich to Hoek van Holland, where
issued pass allowing free public transport. of border crossings, but the chief arteries a further train travels on to Amsterdam. The
Consequently, the number of hitchhikers has are the E40 (CologneMaastricht), the E35 UK journey takes around 9 hours and costs as
dropped dramatically and car drivers are no (DsseldorfArnhem) and the A1 (Hanover BICYCLE little as UK25 one way.
longer used to the phenomenon. Hitchers Amsterdam). Most cross-Channel ferries dont charge foot
have reported long waits. passengers extra to take a bicycle. You can SEA
On Channel crossings from the UK, the TRAIN also bring your two-wheeler on the Eurostar UK
car fares on the HarwichHoek van Holland The Netherlands has good train links to Ger- (right). FERRY
ferry as well as the shuttle through the Chan- many and Belgium and on to France. All Several companies operate car/passenger fer-
nel Tunnel include passengers, so you can Eurail, Inter-Rail, Europass and Flexipass BUS ries between the Netherlands and the UK.
hitch to the continent at no cost to the driver tickets are valid on the Dutch national train Eurolines (see p301) runs a regular coach Most travel agents have details of the follow-
(though the driver will still be responsible if service, Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS; www.ns.nl). service to Amsterdam via Rotterdam and ing services but might not always know the
you do something illegal). See p308 for more about trains within the Den Haag or Utrecht from Londons Victo- finer points. For information on train-ferry-
Looking for a ride out of the country? Try country. ria coach station (from UK30 for adults, 12 train services, see above. Reservations are es-
the notice boards at universities, public li- Major Dutch train stations have interna- hours). Coaches have onboard toilets, reclin- sential for motorists in high season, although
braries and youth hostels. Bugride (http://europe tional ticket offices, and in peak periods its ing seats and air-con. motorcycles can often be squeezed in.
.bugride.com) is a good meeting place for Euro- wise to reserve seats in advance. You can also Busabout (%020-7950 1661; www.busabout.com) is Stenaline (%08705707070; www.stenaline.co.uk)
pean drivers and potential passengers. buy tickets for local trains to Belgium and a UK-based budget alternative to Eurolines. sails between Harwich and Hoek van Hol-
Germany at the normal ticket counters. It runs coaches on circuits in Continental land. The fast HSS ferries take only three
Belgium & Germany For international train information, ring the Europe; its Northern Loop circuit (UK275) hours 40 minutes and depart in each direc-
BICYCLE Teleservice NS Internationaal on %09009296 passes through Amsterdam and eventually tion twice a day. Overnight ferries take 6
Long-distance cyclists can choose from a va- (calls cost 0.35 per minute) or consult the links up with its western and southern routes hours (one daily), as do normal day ferries
riety of safe, easy, specially designated routes website, www.nsinternational.nl. If you book in Paris and Munich respectively. Tickets are (one daily). Foot passengers pay upwards of
to get to the Netherlands from Belgium and ahead, NS charges a 3.50 reservation fee valid from May to October. UK40 return. Fares for a car with up to five
Germany. The bicycle paths are called lan- per ticket. people range from UK300 to UK350 return
delijke fietsroutes (LF) and retain that label in From Amsterdam, two main trains travel CAR & MOTORCYCLE depending on the season and the day of the
northern Belgium. The LF2 route runs 340km south. The first, an Intercity (IC), passes Ferries take cars and motorcycles to the Neth- week. A motorcycle and driver cost UK110/
from Brussels via Ghent to Amsterdam; the through Den Haag and Rotterdam and on erlands from several ports in the UK (for UK200 in low/high season. Options such as
 304 G E T T I N G A R O U N D A i r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D B o a t 305

reclining chairs and cabins cost extra and are everywhere on 20,000km of dedicated bicycle gears. Stolen bikes are available on the street CAR & MOTORCYCLE
compulsory on night crossings. paths. Everything is wonderfully flat, but that for as little as 15, but its highly illegal and Dutch freeways are extensive but prone to
P&O North Sea Ferries (%08705202020; www.po also means powerful wind. the cash usually goes straight into a junkies congestion. Those around Amsterdam, the
ferries.com) operates an overnight ferry every The ANWB (see p296) publishes cycling arm. Good new models start at around 200 A4 south to Belgium and the A2 southeast to
evening (11 hours) between Hull and Euro- maps for each province, and tourist offices on sale, but top-of-the-line brands can cost Maastricht are especially likely to be jammed
poort (near Rotterdam). Return fares start at always have numerous routes and sugges- 1000 or more. at rush hours and during busy travel periods;
UK112 for a foot passenger (for two persons tions. Major roads have separate bike lanes, a total length of 350km or more isnt unheard
travelling together its only UK133), UK238 and, except for motorways, theres virtually BOAT of during the holiday season.
for a car with up to four people, and UK198 nowhere bicycles cant go. That said, in places Ferry Smaller roads are usually well maintained,
for a motorcycle and rider. Prices here include such as the Delta region and along the coast Ferries connect the mainland with the five but the campaign to discourage car use throws
berths in an inside cabin, and luxury cabins youll often need muscles to combat the North Frisian Islands. See the Friesland (p230) and up obstacles you may find the road narrows
are available. Sea headwinds. Noord Holland (p145) chapters for details. to a single lane in sections, or an assortment
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
DFDS Scandinavian Seaways (%08702520524; www Over 100 stations throughout the coun- Other ferries span the Westerschelde in the of speed-bumps and other traffic-calming
.dfds.co.uk) sails between Newcastle and IJmui- try have bicycle facilities for hire, protected south of Zeeland, providing a link between schemes.
den (p152), which is close to Amsterdam; the parking, repair and sales. Details are noted the southwestern expanse of the country and
15-hour sailings depart every day. The earlier throughout this book. Belgium. These are popular with people Automobile Associations
you book, the lower your fare: single fares start Bicycles are prohibited on trains during using the Zeebrugge ferry terminal and run For motoring information, contact the ANWB
at UK19 for a foot passenger in an economy the weekday rush hours (6.30am to 9am and frequently year-round. There is also a fre- (%070-314 71 47; Wassenaarseweg 220, Den Haag); its
berth with private facilities, plus UK41 for 4.30pm to 6pm), except for the Hoek van quent ferry service on the IJsselmeer linking headquarters are in Den, but most big towns
a car. The fare for a motorcycle and rider is Holland boat train. There are no restrictions Enkhuizen with Stavoren and Urk. Youll and cities have an office.
UK49 one way. Bear in mind that prices go on holidays, at weekends or during July and also find a few small river ferries providing
up in high season. August. crossings on remote stretches of the IJssel Driving Licence
Most ferries dont charge for a bike and You may bring your bicycle onto any train and other rivers. Youll need to show a valid driving licence
have no shortage of storage space. as long as there is room; a day pass for bikes when hiring a car in the Netherlands. Visitors
(6) is valid in the entire country regardless Hire from outside the EU should also consider an
of the distance involved. There are no fees Renting a boat is a popular way to tour the international driving permit (IDP). Car-rental
GETTING AROUND for collapsible bikes so long as they can be
considered hand luggage. Some trains such as
many rivers, lakes and inland seas. Boats
come in all shapes and sizes from canoes to
firms will rarely ask for one, but the police
might do so if they pull you up. An IDP can
The Netherlands is more than easy to get the single-level Intercity carriages have very motor boats to small sailing boats to large be obtained for a small fee from your local
around. If you are sticking to the major cities limited space. However, on popular stretches and historic former cargo sloops. Prices run automobile association bring along a valid
and sights, you wont need a car as the train theres often a special bicycle carriage that the gamut and there are hundreds of rental licence and a passport photo and is valid for
and bus system blankets the country. Or you increases capacity. If your planned train has firms throughout the country. See p287 for one year together with your original licence.
can do as the Dutch do and provide your no room for your bike, youll have to wait for more details.
power on a bike. the next train. Fuel
An excellent online information source, For more information about cycling, see BUS Like much of Western Europe, petrol is very
covering everything from bus and train con- p69. Buses are used for regional transport rather expensive and fluctuates on a regular basis. At
nections to city metro lines, is www.9292ov.nl. than for long distances, which are better the time of research it was about 1.40 per litre
Its in Dutch but quite easy to follow. Hire travelled by train. They provide a vital serv- (about US$6.50 per gallon). Gasoline (petrol) is
Although about 85% of the population owns ice, especially in parts of the north and east, benzine in Dutch, while unleaded fuel is lood-
AIR bikes, and there are more bikes than people, where trains are less frequent or nonexistent. vrij. Leaded fuel is no longer sold in the Neth-
With a country as small as the Netherlands bikes are also abundantly available for hire. The national strippenkaart (p307) is used on erlands. Liquid petroleum gas can be purchased
(the longest train journey, between Groningen In most cases youll need to show your pass- most regional buses. The fares are zone-based, at petrol stations displaying LPG signs.
and Maastricht, takes 4 hours), there is no port and leave an imprint of your credit card but figure on roughly one strip for every five Petrol isnt noticeably more or less expen-
need to fly anywhere. There is however the or a deposit (around 25 to 100). Private minutes of riding. sive outside of towns. Cheaper fuel is generally
occasional flight from Amsterdam Schiphol operators and train station hire shops (called There is only one class of travel and passes available from cut-rate chains such as Tango
to Eindhoven, and a number of daily flights Rijwiel) charge 4 to 7 per day, and 25 to exist for regions within provinces; drivers or TinQ just ask the locals.
between Amsterdam and Maastricht. Theyre 35 per week; rental in Amsterdam is around are well informed on such deals and can
chiefly used by business passengers transfer- 30% higher. sell them on the spot. Reservations arent Hire
ring to international flights at Schiphol, and possible and definitely not necessary on The Netherlands is well covered for car hire.
flights are quite expensive. Purchase either regional or municipal lines, most of However, outside Amsterdam the car-hire
Your basic used bicycle (no gears, with which run quite frequently. For details about companies can be in inconvenient locations if
BICYCLE coaster brakes, maybe a bit rickety) can be regional buses around the country, consult youre arriving by train. You can look for local
The Netherlands is extremely bike-friendly bought for around 50 to 75 from bicycle www.9292ov.nl or call the transport informa- car-rental firms in telephone directories under
and a fiets (bicycle) is the way to go; once shops or the classified ads. Count on paying tion service on%09009292 (calls cost 0.70 the heading Autoverhuur. You must be at least
youre in the country you can pedal almost 100 or more for a reliable two-wheeler with per minute). 23 years of age to hire a car in the Netherlands.
 306 G E T T I N G A R O U N D C a r & M o t o r c y c l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D H i t c h i n g 307

ROAD DISTANCES (KM) HITCHING

For information on hitching in the Nether- STRIPP TEASE
lands, see p302. Some well-meaning travellers are tempted
to punch every single field on a strip-
LOCAL TRANSPORT penkaart. But remember, passengers on
Amsterdam ---
Bicycle Dutch public transport need to validate
Apeldoorn 86 --- Any Dutch town you visit is liable to be blan- their tickets only once per trip regardless
Arnhem 99 27 --- keted with bicycle paths. Theyre either on of how many people travel on the same
Breda 101 141 111 --- the streets or in the form of smooth off-road ticket. Youre travelling alone within one
Den Bosch 88 91 64 48 --- routes. In many cases the fastest way to get zone say, central Amsterdam? The canal
Den Haag 55 133 118 72 102 --- around is by bike. belt and surrounding districts are one zone
Dordrecht 98 133 102 30 65 45 ---
but require two strips; fold the ticket and
Eindhoven 121 109 82 57 32 134 92 ---
Bus, Tram & Metro
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
punch the second available strip. Youre
Enschede 161 75 98 212 162 224 200 180 ---
Groningen 203 147 172 260 236 252 248 254 148 ---
Buses and trams operate in most cities, and with a friend? Punch the second and fourth
Haarlem 19 117 114 121 103 51 94 136 184 204 --- Amsterdam and Rotterdam have the added strip. And so on. Journeys to another zone
Leeuwarden 139 133 158 248 222 188 234 240 163 62 148 --- bonus of metro networks. take three strips per person; when in doubt
Leiden 45 125 110 87 99 17 60 132 192 242 42 178 --- One fare system covers the entire country, consult the transport maps at bus/tram
Maastricht 213 201 167 146 124 223 181 86 274 348 228 334 239 --- and comes in the form of the handy strip- stops or ask the driver.
Nijmegen 122 63 18 101 44 135 98 62 134 208 135 194 131 148 --- penkaart (strip card), the Netherlands uni-
Rotterdam 73 128 118 51 81 21 24 113 195 251 70 206 36 202 114 ---
versal tool of travel. Its available from tobacco
Tilburg 114 115 88 25 25 102 60 34 186 260 129 246 117 123 68 81 ---
Utrecht 37 72 64 73 55 62 61 88 139 195 54 181 54 180 85 57 81 ---
shops, post offices, train-station counters, placed by chip cards. At the time of research
Leeuwarden many bookshops and newsagencies, and can information was thin on the ground, but the
be bought in denominations of two (1.60), cards will work like debit cards; money can
Amsterdam

Maastricht
Apeldoorn

Den Bosch

Groningen

Rotterdam
Eindhoven
Den Haag

Dordrecht

Enschede

Nijmegen
Haarlem
Arnhem

Tilburg
three (2.40), 15 (6.70) and 45 (19.80) strips. be loaded onto them and then the cards can

Utrecht
Leiden
Breda

Bus and tram drivers only sell two- and three- be used to validate travel on buses, trams and
strip cards, so youre better off hunting down metros. For more information, consult a tour-
the larger, more economical strip cards. ist office or train station ticketing office.
To validate your journey just jump on a
tram, bus or metro and stamp off a number Taxi
Some car-hire firms levy a small surcharge Note that at most car-rental firms, CDW of strips depending on how many zones you Usually booked by phone officially youre not
(10 or so) for drivers under 25. Most will ask does not cover the first 500 to 1000 of dam- plan to cross. The ticket is then valid on all supposed to wave them down on the street
either for a deposit or a credit-card imprint as ages incurred, but an excess cover package, buses, trams, metro systems and city trains for taxis also hover outside train stations and
a guarantee of payment. for around 10 to 20 per day, is normally an hour or longer depending on the number hotels and cost roughly 12 for 5km. Even
available to cover this amount. of strips youve stamped. In most towns you short trips in town can get expensive quickly.
Insurance punch two strips (one for the journey and one Treintaxis (see p309), which operate from
Collision damage waiver (CDW), an insur- Road Rules for the zone), with an additional strip for each many train stations, are a cheaper and more
ance policy which limits your financial li- As in the rest of Continental Europe, traffic additional zone. practical bet.
ability for damage, is highly recommended travels on the right. The minimum driving age In the central areas of cities and towns, you
when hiring a car. If you dont take out this is 18 for vehicles and 16 for motorcycles. Seat usually will only need to stamp two strips TOURS
insurance, youll be liable for damages up to belts are required for everyone in a vehicle, the minimum fee (see the boxed text, right). Several companies offer tours of the Neth-
the full value of the vehicle. and children under 12 must ride in the back When riding on trams and metros its up to erlands aboard luxury riverboats. Aimed at
If you rely on your credit card for cover, if theres room. you to stamp your card, as fare dodgers can older and well-heeled travellers, these tours
take time to review the terms and condi- The standard European road rules and traf- be fined on the spot. The machines are usually are more like cruises than actual sightseeing
tions. In the event of an accident you may be fic signs apply. Trams always have the right located on board trams and at the entrance to tours.
required to pay for repairs out of your own of way. If you are trying to turn right, bikes metro platforms. Cycletours Holland (%020-521 84 90; www.cycletours
pocket and reclaim the sum from the credit- have priority. One grey area is at roundabouts: The buses are more conventional, with .com; Buiksloterweg 7A, Amsterdam) Conducts short tours
card company later, a procedure that can be in principle, approaching vehicles have right drivers stamping the strips as you get on. of up to a week by bicycle and canal barge. Tours aver-
fraught with problems. of way, but in practice they yield to vehicles More than one person can use a strippenkaart, age eight days and cost around 640 (cabin with shared
already travelling on the circle. and children and pensioners get reductions. shower and toilet).
Speed limits are 50km/h in built-up areas, Note that if you get caught without a properly Hat Tours (%0299-690 771; www.hat-tours.com;
BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING 80km/h in the country, 100km/h on major stamped strip, playing the ignorant foreigner Venedin 26-I, 1441 AK Purmerend) Offers similar tours
More than 800 unmanned radar cameras through-roads and 120km/h on freeways (the doofus strategy) will guarantee that you to Cycletours Holland and appeals to cyclists and nature
(known as flitspalen) watch over Dutch (sometimes 100km/h, clearly marked). The get fined 30. lovers.
motorways. blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%, or 0.02% for those Note that plans are afoot to phase out the Holland River Line (%026-445 80 08; www.holland
who got their licence after 30 March 2002. strippenkaart by the end of 2007, to be re- riverline.nl; Teldersstraat 9, 68 42 CT Arnhem) Cruise in
 308 G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n 309

style with one of the biggest operators, with lazy trips The high-speed Thalys only stops at Am-
along Dutch rivers into Belgium and Germany. sterdam, Schiphol, Den Haag and Rotterdam TRAIN COSTS
Lowlands Travel (%06-2334 2046; www.lowlands before going on to Antwerp, Brussels and Train travel in the Netherlands is cheaper than in the UK but far more expensive than in Eastern
travel.nl; Korvelplein 176, 5025 JX Tilburg) Down-to-earth Paris (or Luxembourg). It requires a special Europe. Tickets cost the same during the day as in the evening and can be bought at windows
nature- and culture-oriented holidays, lasting from three ticket, available at the international ticket or ticketing machines, although most tickets purchased at windows incur a 0.50 fee. Buying a
days to a week for groups of two to eight people, mostly counters. ticket on board costs the normal fare price, plus 35 regardless of the destination.
outdoorsy types aged 20 to 40. Buying tickets from vending machines is fast and fairly straightforward when using the newer
Reservations touch-screen variety instructions are in a number of languages. The older machines, which use
TRAIN For national trains, simply turn up at the sta- codes to choose destinations, require a bit more thinking, but you should find it easy after a couple
Dutch trains are efficient, fast and comfort- tion: youll rarely have to wait more than an of tries. First, check your destination on the alphabetical list of place names and enter the relevant
able most of the time. Trains are frequent hour for a train to anywhere. Services along code into the machine. Then you must choose 1st or 2nd class, zonder/met korting (without/with
and serve domestic destinations at regular the major routes stop around midnight (often discount this refers to a discount card such as the Voordeel-Urenkaart, discussed below) and
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
intervals, sometimes five or six times an much earlier on minor routes), but there are vandaag geldig/zonder datum (valid today/without date). The machine will then indicate how
hour. Short-term visitors may be fortunate, night trains once an hour in both directions much it wants to be fed most are coin only, but more and more accept ATM and credit cards.
but overall the network has been plagued along the UtrechtAmsterdamSchiphol However, its best to carry plenty of loose change rather than rack up hefty bank fees back home
by poor punctuality in recent years. Rush- LeidenDen HaagDelftRotterdam route. from using the machines. If you choose a ticket without date you can travel on another day, but
hour periods around the Randstad seem to Intercityboekje (2) is a handy small booklet youll have to stamp the ticket in one of the yellow punch gadgets near the platforms.
notch up the most delays. The situation may listing the schedules of all IC trains, with an Tickets and discount cards:
be improving, if only because NS (%national excellent map of the entire system. Enkele reis (one-way) single one-way ticket; with a valid ticket you can break your journey
inquiries 09009292, international inquiries 09009296; www In stations, schedules are posted by route. along the direct route.
.ns.nl) has little choice: its profitability is linked Figure out where youre going and look up the
Dagretour (day return) normal day return; 10% to 15% cheaper than two one-ways
to its on-time rates. Some rural lines have schedule and track numbers. One annoyance:
been hived off to combination train-and-bus trip duration and arrival time information Weekendretour (weekend return) costs the same as a normal return and is valid from 7pm
operators who coordinate schedules across arent included on the station schedules, so Friday to 4am Monday.
the region. youll have to ask staff. Dagkaart (day pass) costs 39.90/65 for 2nd/1st class and allows unlimited train travel
Many stations across the country have elec- For train and ticketing information hot- throughout the country. Only good value if youre planning extensive train travel on any one
tronic left-luggage lockers, which cost around lines and the NS website, see left. day.
4 for 24 hours. The majority, inconveniently,
OV-dagkaart (public transport day pass) 5; bought in conjunction with the dagkaart
are bank-card operated; Amsterdams Cen- Train Passes (above), it allows use of trams, buses and metros for one day.
traal Station lockers are still coin operated, There are several train passes for people liv-
however. ing both inside and outside the Netherlands. Railrunner 2; day pass for children aged four to 11.
These can all be purchased in Europe or in
Classes the Netherlands, with the exception of the Note that for delays in excess of half an hour irrespective of the cause youre entitled to
The longest train journey in the Netherlands Holland Rail Pass; generally, youll need to a refund. Delays of 30 to 60 minutes warrant a 50% refund and delays of an hour or more a
(MaastrichtGroningen) takes about 4 hours, show your passport. The websites www.inter 100% refund.
but the majority of trips are far shorter. Trains national-rail.com, www.raileurope.co.uk and
have 1st-class sections, but these are often little www.raileurope.com offer online purchases.
different from the 2nd-class areas and, given The Voordeelurenabonnement (Off-Peak Another option is the Holland Rail Pass, the Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and
the short journeys, not worth the extra cost. Discount Pass) is a great way to save money if which allows you unlimited travel for any France costs UK215/145 adult/under 26 for
Trains can be an all-stops stoptrein, a faster youre going to be seeing the country by train. three (1st/2nd class UK73/49) or five 16 days unlimited travel.
sneltrein (fast train, indicated with an S) or an It costs 55, is valid for one year and provides a (1st/2nd class UK118/79) days within one Outside Europe the Eurailpass is heavily
even faster Intercity (IC). Intercity Express 40% discount on train travel on weekdays after month. There are no reductions for youths marketed. Good for 18 countries, its more
(ICE) trains travel between Amsterdam and 9am, as well as at weekends and on public holi- or seniors. than overkill if youre just visiting the Neth-
Cologne and only stop in Utrecht and Arn- days. The discount also applies to up to three If your trip will encompass all three Low erlands or even the Benelux region. A 15-day
hem; theyre quite fast (a 10-minute saving people travelling with you on the same trip. The Countries then the Benelux Pass is useful, pass costs US$394 for those under 26 in 2nd
to Arnhem), but you pay a 2 supplement card is available at train-station counters. as it covers Belgium and Luxembourg in ad- class (the only class available); adults pay
at the counter or ticket machine, or 4 on The Eurodomino Pass allows three to eight dition to the Netherlands. The pass is good US$605 in 1st class (again, the only option).
board the train. days unlimited travel during a one-month for any five days in one month and includes You can buy these at travel agents or Europe
period in one of 25 European and North a substantial Eurostar discount if you are Rail (www.europerail.com), an international sales
African countries. For the Netherlands, the travelling from the UK. In 2nd class it costs arm of the French railways.
TRAVELLING DOGS three-day pass costs UK43/32 adult/under UK129/97 adult/under 26. A 1st-class ver-
Dog owners can travel with Fido all day long 26 in 2nd class and about 50% more in 1st sion costs UK193 (theres no age discount). Treintaxi
on Dutch trains using a dagkaart hond (dog- class. The five-day version runs UK69/53 An Inter-Rail Pass is good for people who More than 100 train stations offer an excellent
gie day pass), which costs 3. adult/under 26 and roughly two-thirds more can show they have lived in Europe for at treintaxi (train taxi) service that takes you
for 1st class. least six months. A 2nd-class pass covering to/from the station within a limited area. The
 310 G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n www.lonelyplanet.com

cost per person per ride is 4.20 at a train- Ask the counter operator or taxi driver for a
station counter or ticketing machine, or 5 pamphlet listing all participating stations and
direct from the driver. The service operates the relevant phone numbers for bookings.
daily from 7am (from 8am Sunday and public Theres also a central information number;
holidays) till the last train. Theres usually call %09008734682 (calls cost 0.35 per
a special call box outside near the normal minute).
taxi rank. The treintaxi service is handy for reach-
These are special taxis and its a shared ing places far from stations that dont have
service the driver determines the route and frequent bus services. Unfortunately, some
the ride might take a bit longer than with a major stations (Amsterdam CS, Den Haag CS
normal taxi, but the price is certainly right. or HS, Rotterdam CS) are excluded.
TRANSPORT
 311

Health
Citizens from other countries should find
CONTENTS out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for
free medical care between their country and
Before You Go 311 the Netherlands. If you do need health insur-
Insurance 311 ance, make sure you get a policy that covers
Recommended Vaccinations 311 you for the worst possible scenario, such as
Online Resources 311 an accident requiring an emergency flight
Further Reading 311 home. Find out in advance if your insurance
In Transit 312 plan will make payments directly to provid-
Deep Vein Thrombosis 312 ers or reimburse you later for overseas health
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 312 expenditures.
In the Netherlands 312
Availability & Cost of Health Care 312 RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Environmental Hazards 312 No jabs are required to travel to the Nether-
Travelling with Children 313 lands. The World Health Organization
Womens Health 313 (WHO) recommends that all travellers
Sexual Health 313 should be covered for diphtheria, tetanus,
measles, mumps, rubella and polio, as well
Travel health depends on your predeparture as hepatitis B, regardless of their destination.
preparations, your daily health care while Since most vaccines dont produce immunity

H E A LT H
travelling and how you handle any medical until at least two weeks after theyre given,
problem that does develop. For the Neth- visit a physician at least six weeks before
erlands, peace of mind is the first thing to departure.
pack, as health care and medical facilities are
generally excellent. ONLINE RESOURCES
The WHOs publication International Travel
and Health is revised annually and is avail-
BEFORE YOU GO able online at www.who.int/ith/. Other useful
websites include www.mdtravelhealth.com
Prevention is the key to staying healthy while (travel-health recommendations for every
abroad. A little planning before departure, country, updated daily), www.fitfortravel.nhs
particularly for pre-existing illnesses, will save .uk (general travel advice for the layman),
trouble later: see your dentist before a long www.ageconcern.org.uk (advice on travel
trip; carry a spare pair of contact lenses and for the elderly) and www.mariestopes.org
glasses; and take your optical prescription .uk (information on womens health and
with you. Bring medications in their origi- contraception).
nal, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and
dated letter from your physician describing
your medical conditions and medications, NATIONAL HEALTH WEBSITES
including generic names, is also a good idea. Its usually a good idea to consult your
If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to governments travel-health website before
have a physicians letter documenting their departure, if one is available:
medical necessity.
Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
INSURANCE Canada (www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/tmp-pmv/index
If youre an EU citizen, a European Health .html)
Insurance Card (EHIC), available from health United Kingdom (www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAnd
centres or, in the UK, post offices, covers you Guidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en)
for most medical care. It will not cover you for United States (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
nonemergencies or emergency repatriation.
312 I N T R A N S I T D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N T H E N E T H E R L A N D S T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n 313

FURTHER READING over-the-counter medication. It can also ad- tick may produce a red welt and a bulls eye using oral contraceptives, remember that
Health Advice for Travellers (currently called vise when more specialised help is required around the spot within a day or two. Mild some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomiting
the T6 leaflet) is an annually updated leaflet and point you in the right direction. The flu-like symptoms (headache, nausea etc) may can stop the pill from working and lead to
produced by the UK Department of Health standard of dental care is usually good; how- follow or may not, but antibiotics are needed the risk of pregnancy remember to take
and available free in post offices. It contains ever, it is sensible to have a dental checkup to avoid the next stage of the illness pain in condoms with you just in case. Time zones,
some general information, legally required and before a long trip. the joints, fatigue and fever. If left untreated, gastrointestinal upsets and antibiotics do not
recommended vaccines for different countries, Lyme disease can cause mental and muscular affect injectable contraception.
reciprocal health agreements and an E111 ap- ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS deterioration. Travelling during pregnancy is usually possi-
plication form. Lonely Planets Travel with Heat Exhaustion & Heat Stroke The most risky places in the Netherlands ble, but there are important things to consider.
Children includes advice on travel health for Heat exhaustion (yes, it can happen, even in are the wooded areas of Friesland, Groningen Always seek a medical checkup before planning
younger children. Other recommended refer- the Netherlands!) occurs following exces- and Drenthe, Hoge Veluwe National Park, your trip. The most risky times for travel are
ences include Travellers Health by Dr Richard sive fluid loss with inadequate replacement of parts of Zeeland and on the Wadden Islands. during the first 12 weeks of pregnancy and
Dawood (published by Oxford University Press) fluids and salt. Symptoms include headache, The best prevention is to wear clothing that after 30 weeks. Illness during pregnancy can
and The Travellers Good Health Guide by Ted dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration is al- covers your arms and legs when walking in be more severe, so take special care to avoid
Lankester (published by Sheldon Press). ready happening by the time you feel thirsty grassy or wooded areas, apply insect repellent contaminated food and water and insect and
aim to drink sufficient water to produce containing DEET and check your body for animal bites. A general rule is to only use vac-
pale, diluted urine. To treat heat exhaustion, ticks after outdoor activities. cines, like other medications, if the risk of
IN TRANSIT replace fluids with water and/or fruit juice,
and cool the body with cold water and fans.
If a tick has attached itself to you, use
tweezers to pull it straight out do not twist
infection is substantial. Remember that the
baby could be in serious danger if you were to
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS Treat salt loss with salty fluids such as soup it. Do not touch the tick with a hot object such contract infections such as typhoid or hepatitis.
Blood clots may form in the legs during plane or bouillon, or add a little more table salt to as a cigarette because this can cause the tick to Some vaccines are best avoided; for example,
flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobil- foods than usual. regurgitate noxious saliva into the wound. Do those that contain live organisms. However,
ity. The longer the flight, the greater the risk. Heat stroke is much more serious, resulting not rub oil or petroleum jelly on it. there is very little evidence that damage has
The chief symptom of deep vein thrombosis in irrational and hyperactive behaviour and been caused to an unborn child when vac-
(DVT) is swelling or pain of the foot, ankle eventually loss of consciousness and death. TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN cines have been given to a woman very early in

H E A LT H
or calf, usually but not always on just one Rapid cooling by spraying the body with water All travellers with children should know how pregnancy before the pregnancy was suspected.
side. When a blood clot travels to the lungs it and fanning is ideal. Emergency fluid and to treat minor ailments and when to seek Take written records of the pregnancy with you.
may cause chest pain and breathing difficul- electrolyte replacement by intravenous drip medical treatment. Make sure the children Ensure your insurance policy covers pregnancy
ties. Travellers with any of these symptoms is recommended. are up to date with routine vaccinations, and delivery and postnatal care. Always consult
should immediately seek medical attention. discuss possible travel vaccines well before your doctor before you travel.
To prevent the development of DVT on long Insect Bites & Stings departure, as some vaccines are not suitable
flights you should walk about the cabin, con- Mosquitoes are found in most parts of Europe for children under a year old. SEXUAL HEALTH
tract the leg muscles while sitting, drink plenty and are well represented in the Netherlands. Remember to avoid contaminated food and Emergency contraception is most effective if
of fluids, and avoid alcohol and tobacco. They may not carry malaria but can cause ir- water. If your child is vomiting or has diar- taken within 24 hours after unprotected sex.
ritation and infected bites. Use a DEET-based rhoea, lost fluid and salts must be replaced. It When buying condoms, look for a Eu-
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS insect repellent. may be helpful to take along rehydration pow- ropean CE mark, which means they have
To avoid jet lag (which is common when Bees and wasps only cause real problems for ders for reconstituting with boiled water. been rigorously tested, and then keep them
crossing more than five time zones), try drink- those with a severe allergy (anaphylaxis.) If you Children should be encouraged to avoid in a cool, dry place or they may crack and
ing plenty of nonalchoholic fluids and eating have a severe allergy to bee or wasp stings, carry and mistrust any dogs or other mammals perish. Condoms are widely available from
light meals. Upon arrival, get exposure to an Epipen or similar adrenaline injection. because of the risk of rabies and other dis- pharmacies and vending machines in many
natural sunlight and readjust your schedule Bed bugs lead to very itchy lumpy bites. eases. Any bite, scratch or lick from a warm- restaurants and nightclubs.
(for meals, sleep and so on) to the time zone Spraying the mattress with crawling insect blooded, furry animal should immediately be The Rutgers Foundation (www.rutgersnissogroep.nl)
youre in as soon as possible. killer after changing bedding will get rid of thoroughly cleaned. If there is any possibility manages seven regional centres in the Neth-
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate them. that the animal is infected with rabies, imme- erlands that provide a range of sexual and
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, Bon- Scabies are tiny mites that live in the skin, diate medical assistance should be sought. reproductive health-care services. Emergency
ine) are usually the first choice for treating mo- particularly between the fingers. They cause contraception can be obtained at short notice.
tion sickness. A herbal alternative is ginger. an intensely itchy rash. Scabies is easily WOMENS HEALTH Contact the telephone helpline at %030-231
treated with lotion from a pharmacy; other Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling 34 31. The Amsterdam centre, the Rutgershuis
members of the household also need treating through different time zones can all contrib- (%020-624 54 26; www.acsg.nl; Sarphatistraat 618), is
IN THE NETHERLANDS to avoid spreading scabies between asympto-
matic carriers.
ute to an upset in the menstrual pattern. If open for walk-in visitors.

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE

Good health care is readily available. For LYME DISEASE
minor self-limiting illnesses an apotheek Ticks can carry a serious bacterial infection
(pharmacy) can give valuable advice and sell called Lyme disease. A bite from an infected
 314 www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E A c c o m m o d a t i o n 315

Language WHATS IN A NAME?

Dutch, like German, strings words together, which can baffle a foreigner trying to decipher (let
alone remember) street names. Eerste Goudsbloemdwarsstraat (First Marigold Cross Street) is a
the Netherlands and Flemish for that spo- good example! Chopping a seemingly endless name into its separate components might help a
ken in the northern half of Belgium. Both bit. The following terms appear frequently in street names and on signs:
CONTENTS are in fact the same language, called Nether-
baan path, way molen (wind)mill
landic (Nederlands) or simply Dutch. The binnen inside, inner nieuw new
Pronunciation 314 differences between Dutch and Flemish bloem flower noord north
Accommodation 315 (Vlaams) are similar in degree to those be- brug bridge oost east
Conversation & Essentials 316 tween British and North American English. buiten outside, outer oud old
Directions 316 Dutch nouns come in one of three gen- dijk dyke plein square
Emergencies 317 ders: masculine, feminine (both with de for dwars transverse poort city gate, gate
Health 317 the) and neuter (with het for the). Where eiland island sloot ditch
Language Difficulties 317 English uses a or an, Dutch uses een, re- gracht canal
sluis sluice, lock
Numbers 317 gardless of gender. groot great, large, big
steeg alley
Paperwork 318 haven harbour
Theres also a polite and an informal ver- straat street
Shopping & Services 318 hoek corner
sion of the English you. The polite form is huis house toren tower
Time & Dates 318 u (pronounced with the lips pursed and veld field
kade quay
Transport 319 rounded), the informal is je. As a general (burg)wal (fortified) embankment
kapel chapel
Travel with Children 320 rule, people who are older than you should kerk church weg road
be addressed as u. klein minor, small west west
For useful information that will help when laan avenue wijk district
Almost every Dutch person from age five markt market zuid south
onwards seems to speak English, often very ordering food and dining out, including
well and better than youll ever learn Dutch, Dutch words and phrases, see p64. For more
extensive coverage of Dutch than we have
so why bother? Thats a good question be-
space for here, get a copy of Lonely Planets
Consonants What is the address?
cause youll rarely get the opportunity to Most consonants in the pronunciation guides Wat is het adres?
practise: your Dutch acquaintances will Western Europe Phrasebook. are similar to their English counterparts (b, wat is ht adres
launch into English, probably because they d, f, g, h, k, l, m, n, p, s, t, v, w, z). A few Could you write the address, please?
relish the opportunity to pracise their lan- PRONUNCIATION trickier sounds are listed below: Kunt u het adres opschrijven alstublieft?
guage skills. Nevertheless, a few words in Note that the following lists describe the kunt u ht adres opskhrayvn alstubleeft
Dutch show goodwill, which is always ap- pronunciation of the letters used in our ch as in chip Do you have any rooms available?
preciated, and you might even get to under- guides to pronunciation, not written Dutch. g as in go Heeft u een kamer vrij?
stand a bit more of whats going on around kh as the ch in the Scottish loch; its like hayft u n kaamr vray
you. The phrase Spreekt u Engels? (Do you Vowels a hiss produced by tightening the
a as the u in run Id like (a) ...
LANGUAGE

Ik wil graag een ... ik wil khraakh n ...

LANGUAGE
speak English?) before launching into Eng- tongue against top of the throat
lish is best used with older people. The e as in bet ng as in ring bed bed bet
young, thanks to years of English in school, i as in hit r trilled, either with the tongue forward single room eenpersoons- aynprsoans
as well as exposure to vast amounts of Eng- o as in pot or held back restricting the flow of kamer kaamr
lish-language media (movies are usually u pronounced with pursed, rounded air in the throat double room tweepersoons- twayprsoans
subtitled rather than dubbed), will likely lips, as in the French tu y as in yes kamer kaamr
look at you like youve gone around the a neutral vowel, as the a in ago zh as the s in pleasure room with kamer met kaamr met
bend if you ask about their English skills. aa as the a in father two beds twee bedden tway bedn
The people of the northern Friesland ee as in eel ACCOMMODATION room with a kamer met kaamr met
province speak their own language. Al- oa as in boat Im looking for Ik ben op zoek ik ben op zook bathroom badkamer batkaamr
though Frisian is actually the nearest rela- oo as in zoo a ... naar een ... naar n ... to share a dorm bed op een bet op n
tive to English, you wont be able to make ow as in cow camping ground camping kemping slaapzaal slaapzaal
much sense of it, and youll have to go to a ay as in say guesthouse pension pensyon
small-town shop or a farm to really hear it y similar to the sound of er-y in her hotel hotel hotel How much is it ...? Hoeveel is het ...? hoovayl is ht ...?
anyway. Its not the dominant language in year (with no r sound) or, if youre youth hostel jeugdherberg yeukhtherberkh per night per nacht pr nakht
the province, but most of the locals know familiar with it, as the eui in the per person per persoon pr persoan
some as a sign of cultural pride. French fauteuil Where is a cheap hotel?
Most English speakers use the term eu similar the er in her, but with no Waar is een goedkoop hotel? Is breakfast included?
Dutch to describe the language spoken in r sound waar is n khootkoap hotel Is ontbijt inbegrepen? is ontbayt inbkhraypn
 316 L A N G UA G E C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E E m e r g e n c i e s 317

How are you? What street/road is this? Im allergic Ik ben allergisch ik ben alerkhis
MAKING A RESERVATION Hoe gaat het met hoo khaat ht met u/yow Welke straat/weg is dit? welk straat/wekh is dit? to ... voor... voar ...
(for phone or written requests) u/jou? (pol/inf) antibiotics antibiotica anteebeeo
Im fine, thanks. behind achter akhtr teeka
To ... Tot ... Goed, bedankt. khoot, bdangt in front of voor vor aspirin aspirine aspeereen
From ... Van ... See you soon. far (from) ver (van) ver (van) penicillin penicilline payneeseeleen
Date Datum Tot ziens. tot zeens near (to) dichtbij dikhtbay bees bijen bayn
Id like to book ... Ik wil ... reserveren. (see Whats your name? opposite tegenover taykhnoavr nuts noten noatn
the list under Accom- Hoe heet u? (pol) hoo hayt u
modation for bed and Hoe heet je? (inf) hoo hayt y beach strand strant antiseptic ontsmettings- ontsmetings
room options) My name is ... bridge brug brukh middel midl
in the name of ... op naam van ... Ik heet ... ik hayt ... castle kasteel kastayl aspirin aspirine aspeereen
for the night/s of ... voor de nacht(en) van ... Where are you from? cathedral kathedraal kataydraal condoms condooms kondoams
credit card kredietkaart Waar komt u waar komt u constipation verstopping vrstoping
island eiland aylant
number nummer vandaan? (pol) vandaan contraceptive anticonceptie- anteekonsepsee
main square stadsplein statsplayn
expiry date vervaldag Waar kom je waar kom y middel midl
vandaan? (inf) vandaan
market markt markt
old city oude stad owd stat diarrhoea diarree deearay
Please confirm Gelieve de prijs en Im from ... medicine geneesmiddel/ khnaysmidl/
Ik kom uit ... ik kom yt ... palace paleis palays
availability and beschikbaarheid medicijn maydeesayn
I (dont) like. ruins ruines rweens
price. te bevestigen. sunscreen zonnebrandolie zonbrantoalee
Ik hou (niet) van ... ik how (neet) van ... sea zee zay
tampons tampons tampons
Just a minute. square plein playn
May I see the room? nausea misselijkheid mislkhayt
Een moment. n moment tower toren toarn
Mag ik de kamer zien? makh ik d kaamr zeen
Where is the bathroom? LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
DIRECTIONS EMERGENCIES Do you speak English?
Waar is de badkamer? waar is d batkaamr Where is ...?
Im leaving today. Spreekt u Engels? spraykt u engls
Waar is ...? waar is ... Help! Does anyone here speak English?
Ik vertrek vandaag. ik vrtrek vandaakh How do I get to ...? Help! help Spreekt er hier spraykt r heer
Were leaving today. Hoe kom ik bij ...? hoo kom ik bay ... Theres been an accident. iemand Engels? eemant engls
Wij vertrekken vandaag. way vrtrekn vandaakh (Go) straight ahead. Er is een ongeluk r is n onkhluk How do you say ... in Dutch?
(Ga) rechtdoor. (khaa) rekhtdoar gebeurd. khbeurt Hoe zeg je ... hoo zekh y ...
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS (Turn) left. Im lost. in het Nederlands? in ht naydrlants
Hello. (Ga) naar links. (khaa) naar lings Ik ben de weg kwijt. ik ben d wekh kwayt What does ... mean?
Dag/Hallo. dakh/haloa (Turn) right. Go away! Wat betekent ...? wat btayknt ...
Goodbye. (Ga) naar rechts. (khaa) naar rekhs Ga weg! kha wekh I (dont) understand.
Dag. dakh at the corner Ik begrijp het (niet). ik bkhrayp ht (neet)
Yes. op de hoek op d hook Call ...! Haal ... haal ... Please write it down.
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
Ja. yaa at the traffic lights a doctor een doktor n doktr Schrijf het alstublieft op. skhrayf ht alstubleeft op
No. bij de verkeerslichten bay d vrkayrslikhtn the police de politie d poleetsee Can you show me (on the map)?
Nee. nay Kunt u het mij tonen kunt u ht may toann
Please. SIGNS (op de kaart)? (op d kaart)
Alstublieft. (pol) alstubleeft
Ingang Entrance
HEALTH
Alsjeblieft. (inf) ashbleeft I need a doctor. Ik heb een dokter ik hep n doktr NUMBERS
Uitgang Exit
nodig. noadikh
Thank you (very much). 0 nul nul
Informatie/Inlichtingen Information
Dank u (wel). (pol) dangk u (wel) Where is the Waar is het waar is ht 1 n ayn
Open Open
Dank je (wel). (inf) dangk y (wel) hospital? ziekenhuis? zeeknhys 2 twee tway
Gesloten Closed
Thanks. Verboden/Niet Prohibited
Im ill. Ik ben ziek. ik ben zeek 3 drie dree
Bedankt. (pol or inf) bdangt Toegelaten It hurts here. Het doet hier pijn. ht doot heer payn 4 vier veer
Thats fine/Youre welcome. Kamers Vrij Rooms Available 5 vijf vayf
Graag gedaan. khraakh khdaan Vol Full/No Vacancies Im ... Ik ben ... ik ben ... 6 zes zes
Excuse me. Politiebureau Police Station asthmatic asthmatisch astmaatis 7 zeven zayvn
Pardon. pardon WCs/Toiletten Toilets diabetic suikerziek sykrzeek 8 acht akht
or Excuseer mij. ekskuzayr may Heren Men 9 negen naykhn
Im sorry. Dames Women I have epiliepsy. 10 tien teen
Sorry/Excuses. soree/ekskuzs Ik heb epilepsie. ik hep aypeelepsee 11 elf elf
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12 twaalf twaalf more meer mayr Monday maandag maandakh platform spoor/perron spoar/peron
13 dertien derteen less minder mindr Tuesday dinsdag dinsdakh number nummer numr
14 veertien vayrteen smaller kleiner klaynr Wednesday woensdag woonsdakh ticket office loket loaket
15 vijftien vayfteen bigger groter khroatr Thursday donderdag dondrdakh timetable dienstregeling deenstraykhling
16 zestien zesteen Friday vrijdag vraydakh
17 zeventien zayvnteen Im looking Ik ben op zoek ik ben op zook Saturday zaterdag zaatrdakh Private Transport
18 achttien akhteen for ... naar ... naar ... Sunday zondag zondakh Id like to hire Ik wil graag een ik wil khraakh n
19 negentien naykhnteen the bank de bank d bangk a/an ... ... huren. ... hurn
20 twintig twintkh a bookshop een boekenwinkel n booknwinkl January januari yanuaaree bicycle fiets feets
21 eenentwintig aynentwintkh the chemist/ de drogist/ d drokhist February februari faybruaaree car auto owto
22 tweentwintig twayentwintkh pharmacy apotheek apotayk March maart maart motorbike motorfiets motrfeets
30 dertig dertkh the city centre het stadscentrum ht statsentrum April april april
40 veertig vayrtkh a clothing store een kledingzaak n klaydingzaak May mei may
50 vijftig vayftkh June juni yunee ROAD SIGNS
the church de kerk d kerk
60 zestig zestkh July juli yulee Afrit/Uitrit Exit (from freeway)
the ... embassy de ... ambassade d ... ambasaad
70 zeventig zayvntkh August augustus owgustus Eenrichtingsverkeer One Way
the exchange het wisselkantoor ht wislkantoar September september septembr
80 tachtig takhtkh office Gevaar Danger
90 negentig naykhntkh October oktober oktobr Ingang Entrance
a laundry een wasserette n wasret November november novembr
100 honderd hondrt the market de markt d markt Omleiding Detour
1000 duizend dyznt December december daysembr Oprit Entrance (to freeway)
the museum het museum ht musaym
2000 tweeduizend tweedyznt the newsagency de kranten- d krantn Tol Toll
TRANSPORT Uitgang Exit
winkel wingkl Public Transport
PAPERWORK the post office het postkantoor ht postkantoar What time does the ... leave?
Veboden Toegang No Entry
name naam naam Verboden in te Halen/ No Overtaking
a public toilet een openbaar n oapnbaar Hoe laat vertrekt ...? hoo laat vrtrekt ...
nationality nationaliteit nasyonaleetayt Inhaalverbod
toilet twalet What time does the ... arrive?
date of birth geboortedatum khboartdaatm Verboden te Parkeren/ No Parking
the stationers de kantoorboek- d kantoarbook Hoe laat komt ... aan? hoo laat komt ... aan
place of birth geboorteplaats khboartplaats Parkeerverbod
handel handl boat de boot d boat
sex (gender) geslacht khslakht Vertragen Slow Down
a supermarket een supermarkt n suprmart bus de bus d bus Voorrang Verlenen Give Way
passport paspoort paspoart
the tourist de VVV d vayvayvay plane het vliegtuig ht fleekhtykh Vrij Houden Keep Clear
visa visum veezum
train
office de trein d trayn
tram de tram d trem
SHOPPING & SERVICES What time does it open/close? Is this the road to ...?
Id like to buy ... Where is ...? Waar is ...? waar is ...
Hoe laat opent/ hoo laat oapnt/ Is dit de weg naar ...? is dit d wekh naar ...
Ik wil graag ... kopen. ik wil khraakh ... koapn the airport de luchthaven d lukhthaavn
sluit het? slyt ht Wheres a service station?
How much is it? the bus stop de bushalte d bushalt
Hoeveel is het? hoovayl is ht? Waar is er een waar is r n
I want to Ik wil ... wisselen. ik wil ... wisln the metro het metro- ht maytro benzinestation? benzeenstasyon
I dont like it.
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
change ... station station stasyon Please fill it up.
Ik vind het niet leuk. ik vint ht neet leuk the train het (trein)- ht (trayn)
May I look at it? money geld khelt Vol alstublieft. vol alstubleeft
travellers reischeques rayssheks station station stasyon Id like (30) litres.
Mag ik het zien? makh ik ht zeen the tram stop de tramhalte d tremhalt
Can I try it (on)? cheques Ik wil graag (dertig) liter. ik wil khraakh (dertikh) leetr
Kan ik het eens proberen? kan ik ht ayns probayrn diesel
TIME & DATES Id like ... ticket. Ik wil graag ... ik wil khraakh ...
Im just looking. a one-way een enkele reis n engkl rays diesel deezl
Ik kijk alleen maar. ik kayk alayn maar What time is it? leaded petrol
a return een retourticket n rtoortiket
Its cheap. Hoe laat is het? hoo laat is ht gelode benzine khlod benzeen
a 1st-class eerste klas ayrst klas
Het is goedkoop. ht is khootkoap Its (8 oclock). a 2nd-class tweede klas twayd klas unleaded petrol
Its too expensive (for me). Het is (acht uur). ht is (akht ur) loodvrije benzine loatvray benzeen
Het is (mij) te duur. ht is (may) t dur I want to go to ... (How long) Can I park here?
Ill take it. in the morning s morgens smorghns Ik wil naar ... gaan. ik wil naar ... khaan (Hoe lang) Kan ik hier (hoo lang) kan ik heer
Ik neem het. ik naym ht in the afternoon s middags smidakhs The train has been cancelled/delayed. parkeren? parkayrn
in the evening s avonds saavonts De trein is afgelast/ d trayn is afkhlast/ Where do I pay?
Do you accept ...? Accepteert u ... akseptayrt u ... When? Wanneer? wanayr vertraagd. vrtraakht Waar kan ik betalen? waar kan ik betaaln
credit cards kredietkaarten kraydeetkaartn today vandaag vandaakh I need a mechanic.
travellers reischeques rayssheks tomorrow morgen morkhn the first de eerste d ayrst Ik heb een mecanicien ik hep een maykaneesye
cheques yesterday gisteren khistrn the last de laatste d laatst nodig. noadikh
 320 L A N G UA G E T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com

The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...). childrens menu een kindermenu n kindrmnu
Ik heb auto/motorfiets ik heb owto/moatrfeets (disposable) (wegwerp-) (wekhwerp)
pech (in ...) pekh (in ...) nappies/diapers luiers lyrs
The car/motorbike wont start. formula (milk) melkpoeder (voor melkpoodr (voar
De auto/motorfiets d owto/moatrfeets zuigflessen) zykhflesn)
wil niet starten. wil neet startn (English- een babysit (die n baybeesit (dee
I have a flat tyre. speaking) Engels spreekt) engls spraykt)
Ik heb een lekke band. ik heb n lek bant babysitter
Ive run out of petrol. highchair een kinderstoel n kinderstool
Ik zit zonder benzine. ik zit zondr benzeen potty een potje n poch
Ive had an accident. stroller een wandel- n wandl
Ik heb een ongeluk gehad. ik hep n onkhluk khhat wagen waakhn

TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN Is there a baby change room?

I need (a/an) ... Ik heb ... nodig. ik hep ... noadikh Kan ik hier ergens kan ik heer erkhns
Do you have Heeft u ...? hayft u ... de baby verschonen? d baybee vrskhoann
(a/an) ...? Do you mind if I breastfeed here?
car baby seat een autozitje n owtozich Stoort het u als ik stoart ht u als ik
voor de baby voar d baybee hier de borst geef? heer d borst gayf
child-minding een oppasdienst n oppasdeenst Are children allowed?
service Zijn kinderen toegelaten? zayn kindrn tookhlatn
LANGUAGE

Also available from Lonely Planet:

Europe Phrasebook
 321

Glossary
jacht yacht
See the boxed text, p315, for a list of terms jenever Dutch gin; also genever
commonly encountered in street names and
sights. kaas cheese
kantoor office
abdij abbey koffiehuis espresso bar (as distinct from a
apotheek chemist/pharmacy coffeeshop)
klompen clogs
bad bath, pool klooster cloister, religious house
benzine petrol/gasoline koningin queen
bevrijding liberation koninklijk royal
bibliotheek library korfbal a cross between netball, volleyball and
bos woods or forest basketball
botter type of 19th-century fishing boat kunst art
broodje bread roll (with filling) kwartier quarter
bruin caf brown caf; traditional drinking
loodvrij unleaded petrol/gasoline
establishment
buurt neighbourhood markt town square
meer lake
caf pub, bar; also known as kroeg molen windmill
coffeeshop cafe authorised to sell cannabis
NS Nederlandse Spoorwegen; national railway
dagschotel daily special in Dutch restaurants company
drop salted or sweet liquorice
paleis palace
eetcaf cafs serving meals polder area of drained land
polstokspringen pole-jumping over canals (Frisian:
fierljeppen pole-jumping over canals (Frisian; see also fierljeppen)
polstokspringen) postbus post office box
fiets bicycle
fietsenstalling secure bicycle storage raam window
fietspad bicycle path Randstad literally `rim-city; the urban agglomeration
including Amsterdam, Utrecht, Rotterdam and Den Haag
gasthuis hospital, hospice Rijk(s-) the State
gemeente municipal, municipality
gezellig convivial, cosy scheepvaart shipping
GVB Gemeentevervoerbedrijf (Amsterdam municipal schilder artist, painter
schouwburg theatre
transport authority)
sluis lock (for boats/ships)
GWK Grenswisselkantoren; official currency-exchange spoor platform (in train station)
offices stadhouder chief magistrate
stadhuis city hall
hal hall, entrance hall stedelijk civic, municipal
haven port stichting foundation, institute

GLOSSARY
herberg hostel strand beach
hervormd reformed (as in church) strippenkaart punchable multiticket used on all
hof courtyard public transport
hofje almshouse or series of buildings around a small
courtyard, also known as Begijnhof terp mound of packed mud in Friesland that served as a
hoofd main refuge during floods (plural terpen)
 Lonely Planet Publications
322 G L O S S A R Y www.lonelyplanet.com

treintaxi taxi for train passengers waag old weigh-house

tuin garden wadlopen mud-walking
tulp tulip weeshuis orphanage
turf peat werf wharf, shipyard
winkel shop
verzet resistance zaal hall
Vlaams Flemish zee sea
VVV tourist information office ziekenhuis hospital
GLOSSARY

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 Lonely Planet Publications
333

Index
8, the 58 travel within 135-6 beavers 223
walking tour 112-13, 113 beer 62, 160
A Amsterdam RAI 110 Begijnhof 98, 275
Aalsmeer 171 Amsterdam School 100-1 Bergen op Zoom 277-8
Aardewerkatelier de Candelaer 204 Amsterdams Historisch Museum 97 Berlage, HP 84
Abdij 225 Amsterdamse Bos 110 Beverschaep 222
ABN-AMRO bank building 103 animals 49-50, see also individual Beverwijk 153
Aboriginal Art Museum 182 animals Beverwijkse Bazaar 153
accommodation 285-7, see also Anne Frank Huis 102 bicycle travel, see cycling

INDEX
individual locations Apeldoorn 269-70 bicycles 111
activities 287-8, see also individual Apenheul zoo 263 Biesboschmuseum 223
activities Appel, Karel 40 Biesbosch National Park 223
Affiche Museum 163 architects Bijbels Museum 101
Afsluitdijk (Barrier Dyke) 175 Berlage, HP 84 Binnenhof 197
air travel Blom, Piet 58, 211 bird flu 23
air fares 299-301 Coulon, Anthony 56 birds 49, 223
airlines 298-9 Coulon, Jean 56 bird-watching 50, 72, 155, 223, 239
airports 298-9 Cuypers, Pierre 57, 185 Bloemencorso 275
to/from the Netherlands 298-301 de Keyser, Hendrik 55 Bloemendaal aan Zee 152
within the Netherlands 304 de Klerk, Michel 57 Blom, Piet 58, 211
Airborne Museum Hartenstein 267 Kramer, Piet 57 boat travel
Albert Cuypmarkt 107 Marot, Daniel 56 hire 155-6, 164, 172, 287, 305
Ali, Ayaan Hirsi 22 Mendini, Alessandro 246 to/from the Netherlands 303-4
Alkmaar 159-62, 160 Merkelbach, B 58 within the Netherlands 305
Allard Pierson Museum 85 Renzo, Piano 211 boating 155-6, 164, 169, 172, 236,
Alphen 74 Rietveld, Gerrit 58, 106, 183 287
Ameland 241-2 van Berkel, Ben 58, 211 Bonaparte, Louis 28
American Hotel 103 van Berlage, Beurs 57, 84 Bonaparte, Napoleon 28, 154
Amerongen 188 van Campen, Jacob 56 Bonnefantenmuseum 278, 144
Amersfoort 185-7, 186 van der Mey, Johan 57 Bonnema, Abe 211
Amstelkerk 105 Vingboons, Justus 56 Boompjestorens 211
Amstelsluizen 105 Vingboons, Philips 56 Borger 253
Amsterdam 78-136, 86-7, 88-9, 91, architecture 54-8 Bosch, Hieronymous 38
92-3, 95, 138, 139, 140 Armando Museum 186 Bosmuseum 110
accommodation 118-22 Arnhem 266-7, 268 Boswachterij Ulvenhout
activities 110-11 art galleries, see en Chaam 74
children, travel with 113-15 museums & galleries bottle-scraper 34
cinemas 130 Artis zoo 108 Bourtange 251-2
clubbing 129 arts 38-47, see also individual arts Bovenkerk 262
coffeeshops 129-30, 6, 139 Assen 252-3 Breda 73, 275-7, 276
drinking 127-9 ATMs 294 Breda castle 73, 275
entertainment 129-32 Augustinerkerk 221 Breukelen 185
festivals 116-18 breweries 109, 169, 186, 265
food 122-7 B bridges
history 79 Baarle-Nassau 74-5 Drieharingenbrug 100
safety 81-2 Bakenesserkerk 149 Erasmusbrug 211
shopping 133-6 Bartolottihuis 101 John Frostbrug 266
sights 82-110 Bataviawerf Museum 175 Magere Brug 105
tours 115-16 beaches 110, 152, 169, 199, 227, Torensluis 96
travel to/from 135 239, 242 Visbrug 221
 334 Index (B-D) Index (D-G) 335

bridges (continued) Bovenkerk 262 Concertgebouw 107 Deventer 258-60, 258, 141 Eureka Tropische Tuin 169 Frans Hals Museum 149
Waalbrug 265 clandestine church 98 Condon, Sean 125 diamonds 133 Euromast 209, 141 Frans Loenen Hofje 149
Willemsbrug 211 Domkerk 180 Constant 40 Dibbets, Jan 41 European Fine Art Foundation Fries Museum 233
Brinkman 212 Domtoren 180 consulates 290-1 Dick Bruna Huis 180 Show 281 Fries Scheepvaart Museum 235
Broek in Waterland 72, 154 Grote Kerk (Alkmaar) 159 Corneille 40 disabilities, travellers with 296-7 Friesland 230-43, 231, 143
Broek op Langedijk 162 Grote Kerk (Breda) 275 Coster, Laurens 148 Dolfinarium 263 F history 231
Brotherly Love, Freedom & Diversity Grote Kerk (Den Haag) 198 costs 12 Domburg 227 Felix Meritis building 101 language 231-2
party 22 Grote Kerk (Dordrecht) 222 Coulon, Anthony 56 Domkerk 180 festivals 14, 116-18, 169, 183, 193, travel to/from 232
Brouwerij t IJ 109 Grote Kerk (Edam) 157 Coulon, Jean 56 Domtoren 180 203, 214, 225, 240-1, 248, 265, Frisian 231-2
Brouwers Hofje 149 Grote Kerk (Monnickendam) 155 courses 289 Doorn 187-8 275-6, 280-3, 291 Frisian Islands 238-43, 240-1
brown cafs 62 Grote Kerk (Naarden) 172 credit cards 294 Dordrecht 220-3, 222 Bloemencorso 275 Frjentsjer 237
Brueghel the Elder, Pieter 38 Grote Kerk (Veere) 227 culture 33-47 Dordrechts Museum 222 Carnaval 280-1 Frysln, see Friesland
Bruna, Dick 182 Grote Kerk (Zwolle) 260 customs 33, 289 Douwes Dekker, Eduard 96 Elfstedentocht 238
Burgers Zoo 263 Grote Kerk van St Bavo 148 Cuyp, Albert 222 Drenthe 252-4, 245 European Fine Art Foundation G
INDEX

INDEX
business hours 288 Grote of Lebunuskerk 258, 141 Cuypers, Pierre 57, 185 Drents Museum 253 Show 281 gables 55, 5
bus travel 301, 307 Kerkje aan de Zee 177 cycling 35, 57, 69-77, 110-11, 169, Drie Ringen Bierbrouwerij 186 food & drink 62 Galerij Prins Willem V 197
to/from the Netherlands 302-3 Koorkerk 225 185, 226, 229, 239, 241-2, 259, Drieharingenbrug 100 Internationale Wandelvierdaagse gardens, see parks & gardens
within the Netherlands 305 Martinikerk 248 283, 287, 301 Drielandenpunt 283 265 gay community 34
Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 96 hire 70, 304 drinks 61-2 Koninginnedag 117, 139 gay travellers 104-5, 292
C Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 206 itineraries 71-7 driving licences 305 North Sea Jazz Festival 214 Gelderland 263-70, 256
Campveerse Toren 227 Nieuwe Kerk (Haarlem) 149 purchase 304-5 Drommedaris 164 Oerol 240-1 Gemeentemuseum 199
Captains Lodge 252 Nieuwe Kerk (Middelburg) 225 routes 71-7, 71, 73, 74, 75, 77 drop 61 Orange Day 117, 139 Gemeentemuseum het
car travel 302 Noorderkerk 100 to/from the Netherlands 302-3 drugs 23, 293, see also Queens Day 117, 139 Hannemahuis 236
driving licences 305 Ons Lieve Heer op Solder 96 within the Netherlands 304 coffeeshops Tilburgse Kermis 275 geography 48-9, 52
hire 305-6 Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek 280 Czaar Peterhuisje 154 Duinen van Texel National Park 167 fierljeppen 36 Gevangenpoort 197
insurance 306 Oosterkerk 105 Dyke Road 166 films 14 gezelligheid 34
organisations 305 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 85 D fish 49 Giethoorn 263
road rules 306-7 Oude Kerk (Delft) 206 Dam 96 E fish smokehouses 155 gingerbread 259
road-distance chart 306 Oude Kerk (Rotterdam) 209 Damrak 83 Ecodrome 260 Fishermens Monument 177 global warming 22-3, 52
to/from the Netherlands 302-3 Pieterskerk 180 dance 47 Ecomare 167-8 Flevoland 174-7, 146, 5 Golden Bend 103
within the Netherlands 305 Presbyterian church 98 darts 36 economy 22, 34-5 floods 223 golf 36
Carnaval 280-1 secret church 96 De Boschplaat 240 Edam 157-9, 158 Floris V 171 Gotische Huis 262
Casa Rosso 85 Sint Janskathedraal 273 De Dagen van Roam 252 Edams Museum 157 flower auction 171 Gouda 202-4, 202
cathedrals, see Sint Janskerk 202, 280 De Dennen 167 Eel Riot 79 FOAM 103 Grand Bazaar 153
churches & cathedrals Sint Joriskerk 186 De Dubbelde Palmboom 209 Eindhoven 274-5 food 59-68, 291-2 grand cafs 62
cat boat 96 Sint Nicolaaskerk 83 De Efteling 275 Eise Eisinga Planetarium 237 brown cafs 62 Groesbeek 269
cell phones 295-6 Sint Servaasbasiliek 280 De Gooyer 109 Eisinga, Eise 237 cheese 60 Groesbeek Canadian War
cemeteries, see also war cemeteries Sint Stevenskerk 265 De Hallen 150 Elburg 270 customs 64 Cemetery 269
Jewish Cemetery 225 Wandelkerk 225 de Keyser, Hendrik 55 electricity 286 drop 61 Groningen 245-52, 245
Centraal Museum 180 Waterstaatkerk 177 de Klerk, Michel 57 Electrische Museumtramlijn festivals 62 Groningen City 245-50, 247, 6, 140
Centraal Station (Amsterdam) 83 Westerkerk 102, 164 De Muy 167 Amsterdam 107 grand cafs 62 Groninger Museum 246
Chaam 74 Zuiderkerk 99 De Oude Hortus 181 Elfstedentocht 238 herring 61 Grote Kerk (Alkmaar) 159
cheese 60 cinema 46 De Slufter 167 email services 293 Indonesian 60 Grote Kerk (Breda) 275
cheese farms 161, 169 Circuit Park Zandvoort 152 de Spinoza, Benedict 27 embassies 290-1 pubs 62 Grote Kerk (Den Haag) 198
cheese markets 157, 161 Civic Guard Gallery 98 De Stijl 40, 58 Emmen 254 restaurants 62 Grote Kerk (Dordrecht) 222
cheese shops 162, 164, 203 clandestine church 98 De Valk 191 EnergeticA 109 snack bars 63 Grote Kerk (Edam) 157
children, travel with 64, 288-9, 313 climate 12, 289 deep-vein thrombosis 312 Enkhuizen 164-6 Surinamese 61 Grote Kerk (Monnickendam) 155
churches & cathedrals clog factory 154 Delft 204-8, 205 environment 48-53 tasting houses 63 Grote Kerk (Naarden) 172
Amstelkerk 105 CoBrA group 41 Delftse Pauw 204 environmental issues 51-3 theatre cafs 63 Grote Kerk (Veere) 227
Augustinerkerk 221 CoBrA Museum 110 delftware 204 Erasmus, Desiderius 43 vegan travellers 63 Grote Kerk (Zwolle) 260
Bakenesserkerk 149 Coen, Peterszoon 162 Delta Project 228 Erasmusbrug 211 vegetarian travellers 63 Grote Kerk van St Bavo 148
coffee 61 Den Bosch 272-4, 273 Erebegraafplaats Bloemendaal 152 football 35, 132 Grote Markt (Groningen) 248
000 Map pages coffeeshops 44, 6, 139 Den Haag 195-202, 196, 198, 140 Escher, Maurits Cornelis (MC) 40 Fortuyn, Pim 32 Grote Markt (Haarlem) 148
000 Photograph pages Comenius Museum 173 Den Helder 166-7 Escher in het Paleis Museum 198 Franeker 237 Grote of Lebunuskerk 258, 141
Commanderie van St Jan 265 Descartes, Ren 27 etiquette 33 Frank, Anne 102 Guan Yin Shrine 98
 336 Index (H-L) I n d e x ( L- M ) 337

H tulip craze 27, 28 Jewish Quarter (Jodenbuurt) 99 Legermuseum 206 Minckelers, Johannes Petrus 280 Fries Scheepvaart Museum 235
Haarlem 147-51, 148, 141 world wars 29 Jodenbuurt (Jewish Quarter) 99 Leiden 190-4, 192 Mondriaanhuis 185 Galerij Prins Willem V 197
accommodation 150 hitching 302 John Frostbrug 266 Leiden American Pilgrim Museum 193 Mondrian, Piet 40, 185 Gemeentemuseum 199
activities 148-50 hofjes 149, 141 Jonkerbos 269 Leidseplein 103 Monet, Claude 154 Gemeentemuseum het
drinking 150-1 Hofje van Loo 149 Jonkerbos War Cemetery 269 Lelystad 174-6 money 12, 290, 294 Hannemahuis 236
entertainment 151 Hofje van Staats 149 Joods Historisch Museum 99 lesbian community 34 Monnickendam 72, 155-6 Groninger Museum 246
food 150 Hogebeintum 235 Jorn, Asger 40 lesbian travellers 104-5, 292 Montgomery, General Bernard 267 Hash, Marihuana & Hemp
history 147 Hoge Veluwe National Park 269, 268 lighthouse (Ameland) 242 Moskos, Peter 114-15 Museum 85
shopping 151 holidays 292 K lighthouse (Franeker) 237 motorcycle travel 302 Hermitage Amsterdam 108
sights 148-50 Hollands Kaasmuseum 159 Kaasboerderijk Wezenspyk 169 Limburg 278-84, 272, 8, 143 driving licences 305 Het Eerste Friese
tours 150 Hollandsche Schouwburg 108 Kaasmarkt 157 literature 13, 43-5 organisations 305 Schaatsmuseum 238
travel to/from 151 Hollandse Manege 107 Kaaswaag 157, 202 Little Darling statue 97 road rules 306-7 Het Oranje Voetbal Museum 97
travel within 151 Hollum 242 kaatsen 36 Ljouwert, see Leeuwarden road-distance chart 306 Het Schip Housing Estate 100
Haarlemmerbuurt 100 Kaatsheuvel 275 Loosdrechtse Plassen 185 to/from the Netherlands 302-3 Historama 225
INDEX

Homomonument 101

INDEX
Haarzuilens 185 Hoofdtoren 163 Kamp Westerbork 253 Luchtvaart & Oorlogsmuseum 168 within the Netherlands 305 Historisch Museum 155
Hague, the, see Den Haag Hooft, PC 171 Kampen 262-3 Luchtvaart Themapark Aviodrome 176 mud-walking 243, 251, 143 Historisch Museum het
Hals, Frans 38-9, 149 Hoorn 162-164 Kasteel Amerongen 188 Lyme disease 312-13 Muiden 171-2 Schielandhuis 213
Hanseatic League 259 horse riding 169 Kasteel de Haar 185 Muiderkring 171 Hollands Kaasmuseum 159
Harlingen 236-7 Hortus Botanicus 108 Kasteel Radboud 166 M Muiderslot 171 Houseboat Museum 102
Harns 236-7 Houseboat Museum 102 Kasteel Westhove 73 Maastricht 278-83, 279 Multatuli 96 Joods Historisch Museum 99
Hart, Lenie t 250 Huis Doorn 187 Kattenburg 109 Madurodam 199 Multatuli Museum 96 Kaaswaag (Edam) 157
Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum 85 Huis Sonneveld 212 kayaking 223 magazines 286 multiculturalism 36-7 Kaaswaag (Gouda) 202
health 311-13 hunebedden 253 Kennemerduinen Nature Reserve Magere Brug 105 Municipal Museum het Krijtberg 103
heat exhaustion 312 Huygens, Christiaan 27 152, 153 Magna Plaza 96 Prinsenhof 206 Krller-Mller Museum 269
heat stroke 312 Hylpen 237-8 Kerkje aan de Zee 177 maps 293-4 Munttoren 97 Kunsthal 209
Heineken Experience 107-8 Keukenhof gardens 195 Marine Museum 166 Museumplein 106-7 Legermuseum 206
I
Heksenwaag 188 Kinderdijk 219, 142 Maritiem Museum 228 museums & galleries 14 Leiden American Pilgrim
IJmuiden 152-3
Hermitage Amsterdam 108 kite-surfing 288 Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 212 Aboriginal Art Museum 182 Museum 193
IJsselmeer 18
herring 61 Kleine Trippenhuis 98 Maritime & Beachcombers Affiche Museum 163 Luchtvaart & Oorlogsmuseum 168
IJzendijk 229
Het Eerste Friese Schaatsmuseum 238 Kloostergang 180 Museum 168 Airborne Museum Hartenstein 267 Marine Museum 166
immigration 22, 36-7, 298
Het Gooi 172-4 koek 259 Marken 72, 156-7 Allard Pierson Museum 85 Maritiem Museum 228
In de Bonten Os 155
Het Hof 221 Komensky, Jan Amos 173 Marker Museum 156 Amsterdams Historisch Museum 97 Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 212
insect bites 312
Het Lieverdje (Little Darling) 97 Koninginnedag 117, 139 markets 104, 134, 270 Anne Frank Huis 102 Maritime & Beachcombers
insurance 292, 306
Het Oranje Voetbal Museum 97 Koninklijk Paleis 96 Albert Cuypmarkt 107 Armando Museum 186 Museum 168
health 311
Het Schip Housing Estate 100 Koninklijk Theater Carr 105 Beverwijk 153 Bataviawerf Museum 175 Marker Museum 156
Internationale Wandelvierdaagse 265
Het Twiske 155 Koorkerk 225 cheese 157, 161 Biesboschmuseum 223 Mauritshuis 197
International Court of Justice 199
Heyn, Admiral Piet 100 Kopje van Bloemendaal 152 Haarlem 151 Bijbels Museum 101 Mondriaanhuis 185
internet access 292-3
Hilversum 173-4 korfbal 36, 132 Marot, Daniel 56 Bonnefantenmuseum 278, 144 Multatuli Museum 96
internet resources 15, 299-300
Hindeloopen 237-8 Korver, Steve 82-3 Martinikerk 248 Bosmuseum 110 Municipal Museum het
health 311-12
Historama 225 KPN Telecom headquarters 211 Mata Hari 234 Captains Lodge 252 Prinsenhof 206
itineraries 11, 16-21
Historisch Museum 155 Kramer, Piet 57 Mauritshuis 197 Centraal Museum 180 Museum 19401945 221
Historisch Museum het adult 21, 21 Krijtberg 103 Maximilian I 101 Civic Guard Gallery 98 Museum Amstelkring 96
Schielandhuis 213 architecture 57 Krller-Mller, Anton 269 Mayflower 193 CoBrA Museum 110 Museum Boerhaave 191
history 24-32 authors favourite trip 11, 11 Krller-Mller, Helene 269 measures 286, see also inside front Comenius Museum 173 Museum Boijmans van
EU Constitution Referendum 22 cities 16, 16 Krller-Mller Museum 269 cover De Dagen van Roam 252 Beuningen 209
French rule 28 cycling 57, 71-7 Kunsthal 209 Medemblik 166 De Dubbelde Palmboom 209 Museum Broeker Veiling 162
Golden Age 26-8 eastern Netherlands 20, 20 media 37 De Hallen 150 Museum de Baracquen 252
independence from Spain 25-6 family 21, 21 L medical services 312, see also health Dordrechts Museum 222 Museum de Buitenplaats 250
Kingdom of the Netherlands 28-9 Ijsselmeer 18, 18 Lakenhal 191 Mendini, Alessandro 246 Drents Museum 253 Museum Flehite 186
Provos 31 southern Netherlands 17, 17 Landsmeer 155 Menkemaborg 250-1 Edams Museum 157 Museum het Catharijneconvent 180
Roman conquest 24 Wadden Islands 19, 19 language 64-8, 231-2 Merkelbach, B 58 EnergeticA 109 Museum het Catharina
J courses 289 metro travel 307 Escher in het Paleis Museum 198 Gasthuis 203
000 Map pages Jewish Cemetery 225 Laren 174 Metz & Co 103 FOAM 103 Museum het Rembrandthuis 99
000 Photograph pages Jewish community 30, 98, 99, 213, Leeuwarden 232, 232-5 Middelburg 224-6, 224 Frans Hals Museum 149 Museum het Valkhof 264
252, 253 legal matters 293 Miffy 182 Fries Museum 233 Museum Hilversum 173
 338 Index (M-O) Index (O-S) 339

museums & galleries (continued) Stedelijk Museum Bureau Oostvaardersplassen Nature Oosterbeek War Cemetery 267 passports 298 Rotterdam 208-18, 210-11, 212, 141
Museum Lambert van Meerten 204 Amsterdam 100 Reserve 176 Oosterkerk 105 Peter the Great 154 accommodation 214-16
Museum of the 20th Century 163 Stedelijk Museum Zwolle 260 Schiermonnikoog 242-3 Oosterpark 109 pewtersmith 154 architecture 211-12
Museum Simon van Gijn 221 Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum 274 Weerribben National Park 256-8, Oosterschelde 228 Philip II 25 drinking 217
Museum Stoomtram 163, 166 Stoommachine Museum 166 257 Oostvaardersplassen Nature Philip the Good 24, 36 entertainment 217-18
Museum Van Loon 103 Terschelling Museum t Behouden Naturalis Nationaal Natuurhistorisch Reserve 176 phonecards 296 food 216-17
Museum voor het Huys 240 Museum 191 Openlucht Binnenvaart Museum 213 photography 46 safety 208-9
Kruideniersbedrijf 182 Teylers Museum 149 Natuurmuseum Frysln 233 Operation Market Garden 267, 283, Pianola Museum 100 shopping 218
Museum voor Moderne Kunst 266 Theater Instituut Nederland 101 Nederlands Architectuur Instituut 211 284 Pieterskerk 180 sights 209-13
Museum Willet-Holthuysen 104 Tropenmuseum 109 Nederlands Filmmuseum 107 Orange Day 117, 139 pilgrims 193 tours 214
Nationaal Biermuseum 160 Universiteitsmuseum 180 Nederlands Fotomuseum 213 orchids 169 Pintohuis 98-9 travel to/from 218
Nationaal Fietsmuseum Van Gogh Museum 106, 144 Nederlands Omroepmuseum 173 Orvelte 254 planetarium 237 travel within 218
Velorama 264-5 Vermeercentrum 206 Nederlands Openluchtmuseum 266 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 85 planning 12-15, 290, 311-12 walking tour 213-14, 213
Nationaal Museum van Speelklok Verweyhal 150 Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum 109 Oude Kerk (Delft) 206 plants 50, see also individual plants Rotterdam Walk of Fame 213
INDEX

INDEX
tot Pierement 182 Verzetsmuseum 108, 144 Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum 181 Oude Kerk (Rotterdam) 209 polders 48 Royal Delft 204
Nationaal Oorlogs- en Vestingmuseum 172 Nederlands Waterleidingmuseum 182 Oude Raadhuis 262 pollution 52
Verzetmuseum 284 Vleeshal 150 NEMO 110 Oudewater 188 polstokspringen 36 S
Nationaal Vakbondsmuseum 108 Volendams Museum 156 Nemo Beach 110 Overblaak development 211 population 35 safety 81-82, 289-90
National Liberation Museum Waag Museum 258 Nes 242 Overijssel 256-63, 256, 8 Portuguese-Israelite Synagogue 99 hitching 302
194445 269 Wereldmuseum 213 Netherlands American Cemetery & Overloon 284 postal services 295 road rules 306-7
Naturalis Nationaal Westfries Museum 163 Memorial 283 Presbyterian church 98 sailing 236
Natuurhistorisch Museum 191 Zaanse Schans 154, 143 new town hall (Den Haag) 198 P Princessehof Museum 233 St Elizabeths Day flood 223
Natuurmuseum Frysln 233 Zeeuws Biologisch Museum 73 News Photo 83 painters Prinseneiland 100 St Joris Doelen 149
Nederlands Architectuur Zeeuws Museum 225 newspapers 286 Appel, Karel 40 Prinsenhof Gardens 248 Sarphatipark 108
Instituut 211 Zuiderzeemuseum 164-5 Niemeyer Tabaksmuseum 246 Bosch, Hieronymous 38 prostitution 97 scams 290
Nederlands Filmmuseum 107 music 41-3 Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 96 Brueghel the Elder, Pieter 38 Prostitution Information Centre 96 Scheveningen 199
Nederlands Fotomuseum 213 muziektheater 99 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 206 Constant 40 Proveniershuis 148 Schiermonnikoog 242-3
Nederlands Omroepmuseum 173 Nieuwe Kerk (Haarlem) 149 Corneille 40 Provos 31, 97 Schokland 177
Nederlands Openluchtmuseum 266 N Nieuwe Kerk (Middelburg) 225 Dibbets, Jan 41 pubs 62 Schokland Museum 177
Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum Naarden 172-4 Nieuwe Toren 262 Escher, Maurits Cornelis (MC) 40 Schouwen-Duiveland 228-9
109 Napoleon 28, 154 Nieuwendijk 96 Hals, Frans 38-9, 149 Q Schreierstoren 98
Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum 181 Napoleonhuisje 154 Nieuwland Poldermuseum 176 Jorn, Asger 40 Queens Day 117, 139 seals 167, 250
Nederlands Waterleidingmuseum Nationaal Biermuseum 160 Nieuwmarkt 98-9 Mondrian, Piet 40, 185 Queen Wilhelmina statue 96-7 secret church 96
182 Nationaal Fietsmuseum Nijmegen 263-70, 264 Rembrandt 39 senior travellers 290
NEMO 110 Velorama 264-5 Noord Beveland 228 Rling, Marthe 41 R Sexmuseum Amsterdam 83-4
Niemeyer Tabaksmuseum 246 Nationaal Hunebedden Noord Brabant 272-8, 272 Steen, Jan 39 Raadhuis 173 sheep 221
Nieuwland Poldermuseum 176 Informatiecentrum 253 Noord Holland 147-74, 146 van Elk, Ger 41 radio 286 s-Hertogenbosch, see Den Bosch
Noordbrabants Museum 273 Nationaal Monument 96 Noordbrabants Museum 273 van Eyck, Jan 38 Realeneiland 100 shoes 239
Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum 246 Nationaal Museum van Speelklok tot Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum 246 van Gogh, Vincent 40, 6 Red Light District 85-96 shopping 295
Openlucht Binnenvaart Pierement 182 Noorder Dierenpark 254 van Rijn, Rembrandt 39 religion 37-8 Show Cube 211
Museum 213 Nationaal Oorlogs- en Noorderkerk 100 Vermeer, Johannes 39, 206 Rembrandt 39 Singer Museum 174
Pianola Museum 100 Verzetmuseum 284 Noordermarkt 100 painting 38-41 Rembrandt statue 104 Sint Janskathedraal 273
Princessehof Museum 233 Nationaal Vakbondsmuseum 108 Nooteboom, Cees 44 Paleis het Loo 269-70 Rembrandtplein 104 Sint Janskerk 202, 280
Rijksmuseum 106 Nationale Nederlanden skyscraper 211 North Sea Jazz Festival 214 Paleis Noordeinde 198 Renzo, Piano 211 Sint Joriskerk 186
Rijksmuseum van Oudheden 191 National Liberation Museum North Sea locks 152 Pampus 171-2 restaurants 62 Sint Nicolaaskerk 83
Schokland Museum 177 194445 269 Panorama Mesdag 199 Rietveld, Gerrit 58, 106, 183 Sint Pietersberg 280
Sexmuseum Amsterdam 83-4 national parks 50-1 O parks & gardens Rietveld-Schrderhuis 182-3 Sint Servaasbasiliek 280
Singer Museum 174 Biesbosch National Park 223 Oerol 240-1 De Oude Hortus 181 Rijksmuseum 106 Sint Stevenskerk 265
Spanish Government De Boschplaat 240 old town hall (Den Haag) 198 Hortus Botanicus 108 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden 191 skating 35-36, 112, 238, 287-8
Museum 280 Duinen van Texel National Oldehove 233 Keukenhof gardens 195 road rules 306-7 Slot Loevestein 277
Stedelijk Museum 109, 159, 262 Park 167 Ommelebommelestien 177 Oosterpark 109 road-distance chart 306 smoking 23
Hoge Veluwe National Park 269, Ons Lieve Heer op Solder 96 Prinsenhof Gardens 248 Roermond 284 snack bars 63
000 Map pages 268 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Toren 186 Sarphatipark 108 Rling, Marthe 41 Sneek 235-6
000 Photograph pages Kennemerduinen Nature Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek 280 Valkenberg 275 Roosendaal 277 Snits 235-6
Reserve 152, 153 Oostenburg 109 Vondelpark 107 Rossi, Aldo 278 soccer 35
 Lonely Planet Publications
340 Index (S-W) I n d e x ( W - Z ) 341

solo travellers 295 time 296 U Waag (Gouda) 202 Waterstaatkerk 177 work 297
Spanish Government Museum 280 tipping 294 Union of Utrecht 26 Waag (Hoorn) 163 Weerribben National Park 256-8, 257 Woudrichem 277
Speeltoren 155, 157 Torensluis 96 Universiteitsmuseum 180 Waag (Leeuwarden) 233 Weeshuis 164
Spinoza 44 Total Football 35 University of Utrecht 180 Waag (Monnickendam) 155 weights 286, see also inside front Z
sport 35-6, see also individual tourist information 296 Urk 176-7 Waag (Nijmegen) 265 cover Zaandam 154
sports tours 307-8 Utrecht 178-88, 179 Waag Museum 258 Wereldmuseum 213 Zaanse Schans 154, 143
Spui 97-8 Alkmaar 160 Utrecht City 179-85, 181 Waaggebouw 159 Westergasfabriek 101 Zandvoort 152, 142
squash 112 Amsterdam 115-16 Waalbrug 265 Westerkerk 102, 164 Zeedijk 98
Stadhuis 273 architecture 199, 214 V Waalkade 265 Westerschouwen 229 Zeehondencreche
Stadsschouwburg 103 bicycle 214 Valkenberg 275 wadlopen 243, 251, 143 Westfries Museum 163 Pieterburen 250
Staten-College 163 boat 155-6, 158, 173, 199, 203, Valkenburg 283 Walcheren Forest 73 Westindisch Huis 100 Zeeland 223-9, 190
Stedelijk Museum 109, 159, 262 206, 214, 223, 236, 265, 307-8 Valkenburg Castle 283 Walcheren peninsula 226 Westkapelle 72 Zeeuws Biologisch
Stedelijk Museum Bureau bus 199 van Berkel, Ben 58, 211 walking 169, 223, 229, 239, 283, 288 Westkapelse Zeedijk 72 Museum 73
Amsterdam 100 canal 115-16, 225 van Berlage, Beurs 57, 84 walking tours 112-13, 156, 159, 172, whaling 236 Zeeuws Museum 225
INDEX

INDEX
Stedelijk Museum Zwolle 260 cave 280 van Campen, Jacob 56 193, 225, 280, 213-14, 113, 213 Wijdeveld, Hendrik 212 Zeeuws-Vlaanderen 229
Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum 274 Delft 206 van den Vondel, Joost 44 Wandelkerk 225 Willem II 100 Zelle, Gertrud Margarete
Steen, Jan 39 Den Haag 199 van der Mey, Johan 57 war cemeteries Willem the Silent 25-6 (Mata Hari) 234
Stoommachine Museum 166 Edam 158 van der Vlugt, Leendert Cornelis 212 Erebegraafplaats Bloemendaal 152 Willem van Oranje 101 Zierikzee 228-9
Stopera 99 Haarlem 150 van Elk, Ger 41 Groesbeek Canadian War Willemsbrug 211 zoos
strippenkaart 307 Leiden 191 van Eyck, Jan 38 Cemetery 269 Willemswerf 211 Apenheul 263
swimming 36, 112, 169 Maastricht 280 van Gogh, Theo 32 Jonkerbos War Cemetery 269 windmills 75, 109, 154, 209, 219, 137 Artis 108
synagogues 99, 248, 252 Middelburg 225 van Gogh, Vincent 40, 6 Netherlands American Cemetery windsurfing 172, 236, 288 Burgers Zoo 263
Rotterdam 214 Van Gogh Museum 106, 144 & Memorial 283 Winner, David 132 Dolfinarium 263
T town halls van Goyen, Jan 222 Oosterbeek War Cemetery 267 winter of hunger 267 Noorder Dierenpark 254
t Groentje 72 Alkmaar 159 van Rijn, Rembrandt 39 water polo 36 witchcraft 187 Zuid Holland 190-223, 190, 8
t Kaaswinkeltje 203 Delft 206 Veere 73, 226-7 Waterland Neeltje Jans 227-8 Witte Huis 211 Zuiderkerk 99
t Wed 152 Dordrecht 221 Veerse Meer 73 Waterland region 154-5 Wittenburg 109 Zuiderzee 175
tasting houses 63 Enkhuizen 164 vegan travellers 63 Waterland Ticket 155 women in the Netherlands 38 Zuiderzeemuseum 164-5
taxis 307 Gouda 202 vegetarian travellers 63 Waterlooplein 99 women travellers 297 Zwarte Markt 153
telephone 295 Groningen 248 Venlo 284 Waterpoort 235 womens health 313 Zwolle 260, 261
television 37, 46, 286 Haarlem 148 Vermeer, Johannes 39, 206
tennis 36, 112 Leeuwarden 235 Vermeercentrum 206
terpen 235 Middleburg 225 Verweyhal 150
Terschelling 240-1 new town hall (Den Haag) 198 Verzetsmuseum 108, 144
Terschelling Museum t Behouden old town hall (Den Haag) 198 Vestingmuseum 172
Huys 240 Oude Raadhuis (Kampen) 262 video systems 286
Texel 167-71, 168 Raadhuis (Hiversum) 173 Vingboons, Justus 56
Texelse Bierbrouwerij 169 Stadhuis (Den Bosch) 273 Vingboons, Philips 56
Teyler van der Hulst, Pieter 149 Veere 227 visas 297
Teylers Hofje 149 Zierikzee 228 Visbrug 221
Teylers Museum 149 train travel Vismarkt 248
The Hague, see Den Haag passes 308-9 Vleeshal 150
Theater Instituut Nederland 101 tickets 309 Vlieland 239-40
theatre 47 to/from the Netherlands 302-3 Vlooienburg 99
theatre cafs 63 treintaxi 309-10 Vogelmeer 152
theft 290 within the Netherlands 308-10 Volendam 72, 156-57
Thorbecke, Rudolf 104 tram travel 307 Volendams Museum 156
Thorbeckeplein 103 travellers cheques 295 Vondelpark 107
Thorn 284 treintaxi 309-10 Vredespaleis 199
Tilburg 275 Tropenmuseum 109 Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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