The Missing Snows of Kilimanjaro
The Missing Snows of Kilimanjaro
The Missing Snows of Kilimanjaro
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Kilimanjaro, by any name, is a metaphor for the compelling beauty of East Africa.
Not only is this the highest peak on the African continent; it is also the tallest free-
standing mountain in the world, rising in breathtaking
isolation from the surrounding coastal scrubland
elevation around 900 metres to an imperious
5,895 metres (19,336 feet).
But there is so much more to Kili than her summit. The ascent of the slopes is a
virtual climatic world tour, from the tropics to the Arctic.
Even before you cross the national park boundary (at the 2,700m contour), the
cultivated footslopes give way to lush montane forest, inhabited by elusive
elephant, leopard, buffalo, the endangered Abbots duiker, and other small
antelope and primates. Higher still lies the moorland zone, where a cover of giant
heather is studded with otherworldly giant lobelias.
Kilimanjaro, literally the "mountain of snow", is a place where God was said to
live, a provider of water for the local Chagga people and, today, the single largest
source of tourist dollars in a struggling economy.
But the ice is melting and once it is gone, there is a real concern that the 20,000
tourists who come to climb the mountain each year will be gone too. After all a
mountain without snow in Africa is just another mountain.
The precise reasons why the ice fields are shrinking are complex, but deforestation
and global warming are commonly blamed.
Frozen archive: Phil Ndesamburo, the MP for
the area, remembers the mountain of his
childhoodcovered in snow. Now, in his
seventies, Phil shared his concerns for the
future.
We set off just after dawn. At the gate to the Kilimanjaro National Park, the porters,
guides and would-be climbers are massing for the ascent. With the hazards of
altitude sickness, more than half of them will not reach the summit.
Each porter carries a massive 20kg (45lbs). My pack weighs in at four. For four
days, we climb steadily upwards, camping each night until we reach the ice.
Professor Lonnie Thompson, a glaciologist at Ohio State University, US, has been
studying the ice cores his team took from the mountain in 2000.
They were drilled in the Northern and Southern Ice Fields and in the thin
Furtwngler Glacier within the crater.
The cores are a frozen archive with 12,000 years of climatic history locked in the
ice.
His research shows that over 80% of the ice cover has been lost since 1912, and
given the current rate of decline, he predicts that the ice fields will be gone
completely in the next 15 years.