Dallas Lighthouse Sewing Apprenticeship Program: Level 1 - Instructor Handbook

Dallas Lighthouse Sewing
Apprenticeship Program
Level 1 (instructor handbook)

DALLAS
LIGHTHOUSE
SEWING
APPRENTICESHIP
PROGRAM
Level 1 Instructor Handbook
Rusty Bell
Dallas Lighthouse for the Blind
1
Table of Contents
Course outline ....................................................................................................................... 3
Supplies Needed .................................................................................................................................. 5
Pattern pieces ....................................................................................................................................... 5
Day 1 ................................................................................................................................................... 6
Day 2 .................................................................................................................................................... 7
Day 3 ................................................................................................................................................... 8
Day 4 ................................................................................................................................................... 9
Day 5 ................................................................................................................................................. 10
Day 6 ................................................................................................................................................. 11
Day 7 ................................................................................................................................................. 12
Day 8 ................................................................................................................................................. 13
Day 9 ................................................................................................................................................. 14
Day 10 ............................................................................................................................................... 15
Example pages for student binders .................................................................................................... 16
Sample pages for student binder ........................................................................................................ 29
Index ..................................................................................................................................... 47
2
Course outline
3
Unit 1 Machine and Safety Fundamentals
Work room safety
Industrial Sewing Machine - Parts of the machine
Machine set up
How to thread
trouble shooting
Straight seam 1/2 (plain seam)
Pressing - How to operate industrial Iron
What not to do
Steaming
Ways to press
Fusing
Using the Laminator
Serger - What is a serger
How to operate
Trouble Shooting
Safety Stitch
Cover stitch - Parts of the machine
Machine set up
How to thread
trouble shooting
Basic stitching
Plain seam
Plain seam
Curve seam inward
Curve seam outward curve
Curve seam inward turn and stitch
Curve seam outward curve turn and stitch
Plain seam clean finish
Plain seam bound edge
Under-stitching
Edge stitching
Special Machine sewing samples
Serged Seam (together)
Serged seam (seprate)
Cover stitch
Bias Binding
Bartack
Velcro
Work Room exams
Machine exam: Single
Machine exam: Serger
4
Supplies Needed
Actual examples of the following (1 per student)
o straight seam
o straight seam
o basting stitch (#5 on stitch length knob)
o normal stitch (#2 on stitch length knob)
o bobbin tension issues
o needle tension issues
o Rats nest
o serge
o Bad serge edge
o Safety stitch
o Cover stitch
Pattern pieces
200 5x8 pieces of fabric
50 8 inward curve
50 8 outward curve
5
Day 1
7:00am 7:20am Morning Kick off meeting
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
Work room safety
Parts of the machine
Machine set up
How to thread
trouble shooting
Serger
What is a serger
How to operate
Trouble Shooting
Safety Stitch
12:00 Lunch
12:45 Have students working on seams on two different machines
2:30 Break
3:55 Wrap up / Clean up
*** instructor notes: Make sure that the machines are set up with heavy duty thread and
oversized needles for the first day and are unplugged
6
Day 2
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
Review
Parts of the machine
Machine set up
How to thread
trouble shooting
Serger
What is a serger
How to operate
Trouble Shooting
Safety Stitch
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break
7
Day 3
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
Pressing - How to operate industrial Iron
What not to do
Steaming
Ways to press
Fusing
Using the Laminator
Have students working on seams on two different machines
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break

8
Day 4
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break

9
Day 5
7:20am - (9:30-9:50 break)
Shadow Program
12:30pm Attach Samples to binder pages
12:45pm Wrap up and closing expectation
Thought
Successes
Areas for improvement
Next weeks agenda
Clean up
10
Day 6
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
Cover stitch - Parts of the machine
Machine set up
How to thread
trouble shooting
Review
Serger
Single needle
Pressing
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break

11
Day 7
Automatic Machines
Velcro
Bartack
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break
12
Day 8
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break
13
Day 9
7:20am (9:00-9:15 break)
12:00 Lunch
2:30 Break
14

Day 10
7:20am - (9:30-9:50 break)
Shadow Program
12:30pm attach best sample to binder pages
12:45pm Wrap up and closing expectation
Thought
Successes
Areas for improvement
Clean up
15
Example pages for student binders
16
Example: Plain Seam 1/2
17
Example: Plain Seam 1/4
18
Example: Plain Seam Normal Size Stitch
19
Example: Plain Seam Basting Stitch
20
Example: Single Needle - Bobbin tension Issue
21
Example: Single Needle - Needle tension Issue
22
Example: Single Needle - Bobbin in backwards
23
Example: Surged
24
Example: Surged (Wrong)
25
Example: Safety Stitch
26
Example: Cover stitch
27
Example: Binding
28
Sample pages for student binder
29
Name of Sewing Technique: 1/4 straight seam
Materials needed:
2 5 x 8 pieces of muslin
Stitching Order:
1. Make sure your seam guide is set at a quarter inch
2. Take two pieces of fabric and line them up
3. Set against the seam guide
4. back-tack at the start
5. sew the length of the seam
6. Back tack at the end
7. Press open
30
Name of Sewing Technique: 1/2 straight seam
Materials needed:
Stitching Order:
1. Make sure your seam guide is set at a half inch
2. Take two pieces of Fabric and line them up
3. Set against the seam guide
4. back-tack at the start
5. sew the length of the seam
6. Back tack at the end
7. Press open
31
Name of Sewing Technique: Inward curve seam
Materials needed:
2 inward curve pieces of muslin
Stitching order:
1. Set seam guide to
2. Join two pieces together
3. Sew on curved edge
32
Name of Sewing Technique: outward curve seam
Materials needed:
2 outward curve pieces of muslin
Stitching order:
1. Set seam guide to
2. Join two pieces together
3. Sew on curved edge
33
Name of Sewing Technique: inward curve turn and stitch
Materials needed:
2 inward curve pieces of muslin
Stitching Order:
1. set seam guide to 1/2
2. use two pieces of fabric right sides together
3. sew curved seam with back tack at the start and end of the seam
4. clip triangles out of seam allowance about every inch
5. Turn your fabric right sides out
6. make sure the seam is on the fold
7. Press flat
8. Set the seam guide to 1/4
9. sew seam with fold at the seam guide back tack at front and back
34
Name of Sewing Technique: outward curve turn and stitch
Materials needed:
2 outward curve pieces of muslin
Stitching Order:
2. use two pieces of fabric right sides together
3. sew curved seam with back tack at the start and end of the seam
4. clip seam allowance about every inch
5. Turn your fabric right sides out
6. make sure the seam is on the fold
7. Press flat
8. Set the seam guide to 1/4
9. sew seam with fold at the seam guide back tack at start and end
35
Name of Sewing Technique: Clean finish seam / modified clean finish seam
Materials needed:
Stitching Order: Clean finish

1. set seam guide to 1
2. sew seam back-tacking at both ends
3. press seam flat
4. fold one side of seam allowance in half and press
5. Fold the other side in half of the seam allowance the other direction and press
7. sew one side of the seam allowance folded
8. repeat for the other side
9. press open

Stitching Order: Modified clean finish
2. sew seam back-tacking at both ends
3. press seam flat
4. fold seam allowance in half and press
6. sew seam allowance folded
7. press open to one side
36
Name of Sewing Technique: Needle pivot corner
Materials needed:
Stitching Order:
1. start with 2 pieces of fabric together
2. start stitching on one side
3. when you reach the end stop the sewing machine making sure the needle is in the fabric
4. lift the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90 degrees
5. continue sewing along the other edge until you reach the next corner
6. back-tack
37
Name of Sewing Technique: Velcro Machine
38
Name of Sewing Technique: Bartack
39
Name of Sewing Technique: binding machine
40
Name of Sewing Technique: Serged edge
Materials needed:
2 - 4x8 pieces of muslin
41
Name of Sewing Technique: Serged seam (together)
Materials needed:
Stitching order:
1. Sew 2 pieces together at
2. Press seam to one side
3. Serge seam allowance
4. Press flat
42
Name of Sewing Technique: Serged seam (separate)
Materials needed:
Stitching Order
1. Sew 2 pieces together at
2. Press seam open
3. Serge one side of the seam allowance
4. Serge the other side of the seam allowance
5. Press flat
43
Name of Sewing Technique: surged seam knit
44
Name of Sewing Technique: Cover stitch
Where would you use this stitching technique:

This stitch is used to hem knit garments as well as secure ribbing or served seams. This stitch can also be
used to create a flat seam often used in active wear.
45
46

Index
47
Unit 1 Sewing Fundamentals

Trainee Evaluation
Trainee ______________________________ Date:_________________________
Observer _____________________________
Industrial Sewing Machine (Machine Exam)

1. Trainee will be able to identify all the major parts of the machine, basic machine set up and
an be able to follow the path of threading
Mastery General No understanding
(2) (1) (0)
a. Parts of the machine
i. Bobbin ______ _______ _____________
ii. Bobbin case ______ _______ _____________
iii. Bobbin winder ______ _______ _____________
iv. Take up lever ______ _______ _____________
v. Thread tension wheel ______ _______ _____________
vi. Seam guide ______ _______ _____________
vii. Hand crank ______ _______ _____________
viii. Needle up / down button ______ _______ _____________
ix. Presser foot up / down ______ _______ _____________
x. Back tack ______ _______ _____________
xi. Basting stitch ______ _______ _____________
xii. Normal stitch ______ _______ _____________
xiii. Needle ______ _______ _____________
b. Machine set up
i. Set up seam guide ______ _______ _____________
ii. Set up seam guide ______ _______ _____________
iii. Identify zipper foot on side ______ _______ _____________
iv. Identify invisible zipper foot ______ _______ _____________
v. Identify 2 prong zipper foot ______ _______ _____________
vi. Identify 1/8 edge foot ______ _______ _____________
vii. Identify 1/16 edge foot ______ _______ _____________
viii. Identify edge foot ______ _______ _____________
c. How to thread
i. Show path of thread ______ _______ _____________
2. Pressing
a. How to operate industrial Iron
i. Steam ______ _______ _____________
ii. Ham ______ _______ _____________
iii. Press seam open ______ _______ _____________
iv. Press seam to one side ______ _______ _____________
v. Folded and pressed edge ______ _______ _____________
48
vi. Laminator ______ _______ _____________
3. Serger
a. What is a serger
i. What does it do ______ _______ _____________
ii. Why is it used ______ _______ _____________
b. How to operate
i. Demonstrate proper use ______ _______ _____________
c. Safety Stitch
i. What does it do ______ _______ _____________
ii. Why is it used ______ _______ _____________
iii. Demonstrate proper use ______ _______ _____________
4. Work room safety (safety exam)
a. Sewing
i. Identify proper safety equipment
______ _______ _____________
ii. Demonstrate where the safety zone is for finger placement
______ _______ _____________
b. Ironing
i. Demonstrate proper ironing safety
______ _______ _____________
5. Basic stitching
Plain seam ______ _______ _____________
Plain seam clean finish ______ _______ _____________
Plain seam bound edge ______ _______ _____________
Top stitching ______ _______ _____________
Under-stitching ______ _______ _____________
Edge stitching ______ _______ _____________
Curve seam inward ______ _______ _____________
Curve seam outward ______ _______ _____________
Curve seam inward turn and stitch ______ _______ _____________
Curve seam outward turn and stitch ______ _______ _____________
Velcro ______ _______ _____________
Bartack ______ _______ _____________
Binding Machine ______ _______ _____________
Total ______ _______ _____________
Minimum passing score is 75 points. However to pass this module each trainee must
master all safety check offs.

49

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Dallas Lighthouse Sewing

Dallas Lighthouse for the Blind

Example pages for student binders

Sample pages for student binder

Name of Sewing Technique: 1/4 straight seam

Name of Sewing Technique: 1/2 straight seam

Name of Sewing Technique: Inward curve seam

Name of Sewing Technique: outward curve seam

Name of Sewing Technique: inward curve turn and stitch

Name of Sewing Technique: outward curve turn and stitch

Stitching Order: Clean finish

Name of Sewing Technique: Needle pivot corner

Where would you use this stitching technique:

Unit 1 Sewing Fundamentals

Industrial Sewing Machine (Machine Exam)

Total __ _ ___________

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