Build Your Own Custom Closet - Gillett Cole

DESIGNING, BUILDING & INSTALLING CUSTOM CLOSET SYSTEMS
~ BIACK&DECKER
BUILD YOUR OWN
Designing, Building &Installing Custom Closet Systems
Creative Publishing
international
CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTA
www.crea ti vepub. com
Creative Publishing
international
copyright 2007
Creative Publi shing international, Inc.
18705 Lake Drive East
Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317
1-800-328-3895
www.creativepub.com
All rights reserved
Printed in China
10987 654 32 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Cole, Gillett,
Build your own custom closet: designing, building & installing custom
closet systems I by Gillett Cole & Jim Myers.
p. cm.
Summary: "Includes detailed step-by-step instructions for 12 different
styles of closet organizers"--Provided by publisher.
Includes index. Branded by Black & Decker.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-306-5 (soft cove r)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-306-9 (soft cover)
1. Built-in furniture. 2. Clothes closets. 3. Shelving (Furniture)
4. Storage in the home. I. Myers, Jim, II. Title.
TI197.5.B8C5852007
684.1' 6- dc22
President/CEO: Ke n Fund
VP for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd
Home Improvement Group
Publisher: Brya n Trandem

Managing EditOrTracy Stanley
Senior Editor: Mark Johan son
Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer
Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl
Director of Photography: Tim Him sel
Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
Photo Coordinators: Julie Ca ruso, Joa nne Wawra
Shop Manager: Bryan McLain
Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
Page Layout Artist: Kristine Mudd
Photographers: Andrea Rugg, Joe l Schnell
Shop Help: Glenn Au stin, John Webb
Authors: Gill ett Cole, Jim Meyers

Technica l Review: Michael Popowski , Philip Schmidt
2007012535
BUILD YOU ROWN CUSTOM CLOSET

Created by: Th e Editors of Creative Publi shing internation al, Inc., in coo peration with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker is a trad emark of Th e Black & Decker Corporati on and is used under li cense.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book . The Publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of
misuse of the information provided .
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required . Always follow manufacturers ' instructions included with products , since deviating from the directions may void warranties . The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels
required : some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help .
Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits , codes and other laws as they apply to
your project.
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Contents
Build Your Own Custom Closet
Considering Closets . . ...... 5
Basics ..... . ........... 37
Inspiration . . . ... .... ..... 6
Tea ring Out Old Closet Material ... . 38
Drawers . . .... . . . . . . . . ..... ... 111

Cabinet Doors .. .. . . ....... . ... 113
Adding Shelves .. . ..... . ... . . .. . 44
Without Face Frames ..... . .... 113

Overlay with Face Frames ...... 114
Planning . .............. . 15
Installing Corner Units .. .. .... . .. . 50
Closet Overview . ........ .. .... . . . 16
ConnectorTop Shelf . . ... . .... . 51
Closet Doors .. .. .. . . .. . .. . ... .. 115
Materials . .... . ... . ..... . ...... . 17
Corner Shelf Units .... . .. ... .. . 55
prehung Doors .. . . .. ..... .... 117
Trim & Molding . . . . .......... .. .. . 18
Outside Corner Units . ... . .. . . . . 62
French Doors . . .............. 120
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Installing Wire Shelving . .. ..... . . . 64
Pocket Doors . .. . . ... . . .. . .. . 123
Tools, Hardware & Fasteners . . . .. . . . 20
Installing a Basic
Closet Organizer .... .. ....... . 68
Bifold Doors .. . ......... .. .. . 126
Standard Hardware
& Fasteners . . ........ .. ...... . 21
specialty Hardware
& Fasteners . .. . . .. ... . .. . . . .. . 22
Installing a Basic
Shelving Organizer . .. . . . .. ..... 70
Custom Installations .... ..... 73

Installing a wall-hung Unit . .. ... .. . 74
Survey the Closet Space .. . ....... . 24
Installing a Floor-based Unit ...... . 82
Identify Obstructions . .. .. .. .. .. .. . 26
Installing a Built-in organizer .. . .. . 88
Choose a Closet System ... . . . .. .. . 27
New Closets .. .. .. .... .. .. . .. . .. 92

Building a Walk-in Closet ... . ... . 92
Take Inventory . . ..... . .. ... . .. .. . 30

Graph Your Custom Design .. .. .. .. . 32
Baskets . ... . .. . .. . . . ....... . . . 129

Vertical Spacers . .. . . ....... . ... 130
Wire Shelving Hardware

& Fasteners . . . . . ..... .. . . .... . 22
Design ................. 29
Ventilation Systems . . ....... .... 128
Closet Island .. .. .. . . .. . . . . ... .. 132

Drawer Components ... ..... . . .. 137
Resources ............. 140

Credits .............................. 140
Metric Conversions ......... 141
Building a Reach-in Closet . .. . .. . 97
Adding Accessories ......... 103

Rods . .. ..... . .. ..... . .. .. ... 104
Determine Materials
Needed & Cut Lists . . .. .. ... . .. . 33
Shoe Cubby .......... . ...... . . 106
Sample Designs . ........ .. ...... . 34
Tie & Belt Rack . . .... .. . . . ... ... 109
Index .................. .............. 142
Considering
Closets
L
ife is ever changing. Wouldn't it be nice if your closet

changed with your lifestyle? Well, wish no longer.
Custom closets are modular, and with modularity comes
versatility. The modular innovation phenomenon, or
better known as the "custom closet phenomenon," has
been around since the 1970s. In this book we'll explore
both traditional and contemporary (modular) approaches
to installing the perfect closet for your specific needs.
The traditional building techniques incorporate standard
joinery methods and well-known materials-namely wood
and plywood-while the new methods use melamine and
specialty modular hardware. By "modular" we mean
adjustable. Adjustability is achieved with European
design (most notably in hardware and fasteners).
One of the biggest drawbacks to standard rod-andshelf closets is that they don't maximize the vertical
space of your wall. In a typical closet with an 8-foot
ceiling, that's a tremendous amount of wasted space.
Custom closets, on the other hand, do take advantage
of this precious wall space by using a practice known
as "double hanging." By stacking (or double hanging)
your clothes, you free up wall space for more storage.
With more hanging and storage space available to you,
you have the ability to have a place for everything and
everything in its place.
Custom closets don't just have to be about function
and utility. We spend much time and money decorating
our bedrooms and living spaces. Why should our closets
be any different? Consider using products that match
the rest of the hardware and wood finishes in your home.
If nothing else, you can take great comfort knowing a
custom closet protects the sizeable investment you make
in your wardrobe. When items have a designated hanging
spot or are folded neatly on a shelf, they look better and
last longer. While function and utility are important,
appearance can be just as important with custom closets.
I Inspiration
K
nowing exactly what you want to store in your

closet helps with the initial planning and designing
stages. By using modular units and adjustable shelving,
you can adjust your closest to fit your needs over time.
In this section we'll share with you the closet systems,
styles, and features that have made the contemporary
closet the new Rolls-Royce in home design.
A creative way to maximize your closet space using both
Here's a nice illustration of how closet accessories are
a wall-hung and floor-based system. The floor-based system

expands storage from floor to ceiling, while the wall-hung
section allows space below for hanging clothes and
extra floor storage as needed.
becoming more innovative as the custom closet industry

matures and becomes more sophisticated.
6 BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLOSET
With a contemporary feel, this floor-based closet system offers a nice balance of hanging and shelving. The mirrored effect the
closet has makes for equal his and hers space, keeping sides we ll defined while also orderly and neat.
For those who truly want the best in function, materials,
This beautiful maple wall-hung closet system makes
and design, this closet is loaded! With features such as

designer glass, crown molding, a hidden ironing board, raised
drawer fronts, and a center island, this closet feels more like a
room than a closet.
the most out of this reach -in closet. The double-hang section
is smartly mounted on the return wa ll to make the hanging
clothes more accessible.
Inspiration
For those with a sophisticated modern palette, this closet is for you. With its impressive blend of steel wa ll rails, bright
orange drawers, and dark wood veneer cabinet doors-not to mention the recessed lights and matching wa ll paint-here's a
closet that would make Frank Lloyd wright proud.
Don't forget-or underestimate the importance of-the doors. Closet doors add design chic to any room. Here, these
simple sliding doors add visual punch to an entire wall.
Sliding doors are a decorative option for smaller

closet spaces as well. Translucent doors allow the light
of the closet to be shared with the accompanying room
without personal items being on display.
Simple bifold closet doors have the ability to make a design

statement within any room. With some thought, your closet doors
can reflect your personal style and add elegance to the room.
Think of your door as a large piece of artwork hung on the wall.
Inspiration
This contemporary Euro-design closet system, with its stunning wood veneer finish and wardrobe lighting, is just the closet
for finer attire that you wa nt to protect.
Not just for clothing storage anymore, custom closets

are perfect for pantries, too. This well-designed pantry makes
the most of the space by offering smart storage solutions for
dry goods, with roll-out chrome baskets, adjustable shelves
for bottled and canned goods, vertical panels for cooking and
baking ware, and love ly wine racks for your fa vo rite merlot.
Sick of having your clothes resemble the Leaning Tower of

Pisa? Here's the benefit of having adjustable shelves. These
blonde melamine adjustable shelves are versatile enough to
store storage boxes, hats, and purses neatly and properly.
Can you say Utopia?

This closet offers utility and
elegance all in one design.
There are horizontal fixed
shelves running all along
the bottom and top, and
crown molding along the
top for a built-in appeal. The
natural light of the window is
preserved without sacrificing
the storage space below.
-..--... . .. ,,
.~ JI
- ~. - - .- -
. ~
This home office is a fine

example of how custom
closets transcend wa rdrobe
closets and become so
much more. This home office
design nicely incorporates
the needs of the homeby offering adjustable linen
shelves-with the needs
of the professional working
from home-by offering
hanging and base cabinets
and a beautiful peninsula
countertop.
Inspiration
11
TO maximize a typical reach-in kid's closet add triple-hang, adjustable shelves, and rollout baskets.
12
BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLOSET
Part of the custom feel of closets is achieved from
A mother's dream! If you want your kids to put their clothes
attention to detais. Carefully choose wall colors, shelf

materials, and accessories.
away, you need to provide the right closet-and this nice

floor-based closet system does just that. With its angled shoe
shelves, drawers, and double-hang sections, your teenager
will gladly hang up clothes and keep shoes in order.
This closet, with its maple laminate shelves and drawer
If budget is a concern, here is a creative and affordable way
fronts, also uses a metal track system to offer adjustability

while saving on costs.
to offer double-hang using a metal track system, while also

using a white laminate shoe cubby and drawer section.
Inspiration
13
Planning
M
uch is expected of contemporary closets. They

need to be adjustable for our ever-changing
lifestyles, but they also need to be sturdy, reliable, and
affordable. To achieve all of this, there are preferred
materials, hardware, and fasteners used by closet
installers. Many products are available at home
centers, and the specialty products are available
through online or catalog resources (see Resources).
These specialty products are becoming more readily
available in home centers as more DIYers see the
cost benefit of designing and building their own
closet systems. In this section we'll discuss the basic
components of closet systems and the options you
have to build them.
In this section:
Closet Overview
Materials
Trim & Molding
Accessories
Tools, Hardware & Fasteners
Survey the Closet Space
Identify Obstructions
Choose a Closet System
15
I Closet Overview
B
efore we get started it's important to understand

just how much closet building has evolved.
Traditionally, a closet system was constructed with
a 3J411- thick sheet of plywood and a few feet of 1 X 3
lumber. In this system, "sections" (the space between
any two verticals) must be completely constructed and
then set into place-shelves are nailed in between
verticals for a sturdy box, in essence, that is most stable
when resting on the floor. To build around this section,
top shelves or shelf cleats rest upon wall supports
(called "nailers"). The top shelves are lowered on top
of the nailer and nailed in place along the top of the
verticals. We use this basic method as an alternative
to the wall-hung project, but we update it slightly
by incorporating modular hardware-which adds
structural support to the entire unit, and in turn allows
for some of the fixed, supportive shelves to be replaced
with adjustable shelves.
The major advantage closets today have is
increased adjustability. A modular closet system
consists of verticals and shelves just as its predecessor.
The verticals either stand on the floor (a "floor-based"
system) or hang on a wall rail (a "wall-hung" system).
Wall-hung systems have evolved greatly thanks to
modular hanging rail systems. Traditionally, each
section had to be assembled and then lifted into place.
While holding the section in place, each shelf

cleat had to be fastened to the wall. With modular
innovations, the weight burden of the unit is
distributed more to the verticals (not just the shelf
cleats). The verticals have brackets fastened to them
that allow you to hang all of the verticals on the
wall, and then you continue to fill in the sections;
you have the ability to adjust verticals to plumb at
any time. This has transformed closet installation
into a single-person job.
Modular closets have shelving that is fixed and
adjustable. Fixed shelves are fastened to the wall
with cleats or steel L-brackets, and they are often
fastened to other shelves through the verticals with
modular hardware (see page 22), thus providing
structural reinforcement to the entire unit by
distributing weight loads from section to section.
In any closet system a single wall is called
a "unit," and each unit consists of sections. The
units in a walk-in closet are joined in the corners
(see Installing Corner Units starting on page 50).
Custom cabinetry experience comes in handy at
this stage. Finally, in each section accessories are
added based on your personal storage needssuch as baskets, drawers, rods, shoe cubbies,
and vertical spacers.
Flush top in place

with Kds
_-Wall nailer
- nel."
.......~/ Shelf cleats
.~
With a traditional closet system each section is constructed

and then lifted into place on the wall. The verticals are notched
to rest on a nailer, helping you hold the section in place as shelf
cleats are screwed to the wa ll . This process requires
two installers.
Notch
cover
Wall rail
Modular closets offer a much more efficient installation

process. Adjustable brackets are fastened to vertica ls, and
then vertica ls are hung on rails along the wa ll. As verticals
are supported by the rail, the installer has free hands to build
out each section, adjusting to plumb and level throughout
the installation process. L-brackets are then fastened to fixed
shelves, and occasionally under verticals. This process is
practical for a single installer.
I Materials
T
oday melamine shelving stock is the preferred

material for verticals and shelves. It is widely
available, inexpensive, and comes in a host of colors
and faux wood finishes. Cost is the major factor
that has led closet installers to use melamine: this
inexpensive yet durable material allows for other
custom features to be added to the closet unit while
still staying on budget.
Most home centers carry melamine shelving stock
or MDF board suitable for the projects in this book;
however, custom closet companies will often purchase
industrial strength, high-density melamine (for a
slightly higher cost) to ensure the greatest durability.
These dense versions can often be special ordered
from home centers or lumberyards (density is often
specified in board manufacturers' data sheets).
Precut stock is available at most home centers
in 3/4" thicknesses and in standard depths of 12",
14", 16", and 18" (larger depths are often available
should you happen to have a large return wall and
desire deep shelving). The stock is also available with
predrilled shelf-pin holes. MDF board and melamine
sheets allow you to cut verticals and shelves to custom
sizes. They are often sold as 3/4"-thick, 4 x 8' sheets.
Plywood is another option for closets verticals and
shelves, but it is typically more expensive and does
not offer the host of finishes available in melamine.
A. %" x 12 X 8' melamine shelf stock with predrilled holes,

B. %" x 16 x 8' melamine shelf stock with predrilled holes,
C. 3/4" melamine shelf stock without predrilled holes,
D. %" finish-grade oak shelving, E. 3/4" melamine shelving
with faux wood finish.
A. 3/8 " tempered glass, B. vinyl-coated wire

shelving with hanger space, C. standard
vinyl-coated wire shelving, D. metal wire
shelving, E. brackets, F. metal wa ll standards,
G. 3/4" X 4 x 8' melamine sheet, H. W' oak
plywood, I. %" finish-grade oak plywood,
J. 3/4" X 4 x 8' MDF board sheet, K. W' x
4 x 8' MDF board sheet.
Planning
17
For a more finished look, you have the option to paint

or finish plywood with tinted oils or stains. For builtins, finish-grade plywood is often used for exposed
areas, and it is usually edged with hardwood strips
or moldings. Finish-grade plyvvood (oak or birch) is
often used for interiors of built-ins; it is made from
several layers of softwood veneer sandwiched between
hardwood surface veneers.
For shelving that requires little weight and has

a short span (such as shoe cubby inserts), 112"-thick
MOF sheets are available. For adjustable shelving
consider tempered glass, which is great for decorative
shelving that is not intended to hold much weight.
Standard glass shelving (12 X 12) rests on adjustable
pins. The span should be 24" or less. Glass shelving
is sold at most home centers.
Wire shelving is yet another material used for
closet organization, and it is widely available. There
are two basic types available: vinyl-coated and
metal-the metal typically being the more industrial
of the two and therefore predominantly used in sheds,
basements, and garages. Wire shelving is also available
with a space for hangers.
Finally, systems that use metal standards are
widely available and inexpensive shelving options.
They are easy to install, and their simple, industrial
style has made them the preferred choice for garage
organization.
I Trim & Molding
18
Trim moldings are both decorative and functional.

They can be used to cover gaps around the base and
sides of floor-based and built-in closets, to hide the
edges of plywood and melamine surfaces, or simply to
add visual interest to a project. Moldings are available
in dozens of styles. Synthetic trim moldings, made of
wood composites or rigid foam covered with a layer of
melamine, are less expensive than hardwood moldings.
For face frames, hardwood strips are used (available in
1 X 2, 1 X 3, or 1 X 4 sizes).
Baseboard molding and base shoe molding is
used to trim the bottom edge (along the floor line) of
a floor-based or built-in closet, while crown and cove
moldings cover gaps between the top of a closet and
the ceiling.
Other molding you may use is door-edge ("cap"
molding to create panel-style doors and drawer faces),
shelf-edge ("base cap" molding to give a decorative
edge to shelves), and ornamental (used as a decorative
accent, especially on slanted shoe shelves).
A. melamine face frame, B. solid oak face frame (1 x 3),

C. base shoe molding, D. crown molding, E. baseboard
molding, F. decorative molding, G. synthetic trim molding,
H. shelf-edge molding, I. synthetic trim molding.
I Accessories
When it comes to accessories, what's available at
your local home center greatly influences your overall
design. For example, preassembled drawers, baskets,
and shelving stock all come in standard sizes. To make
your closet designs coincide with th e accessory sizes
most available in your area, make a quick trip to the
storage supplies section of your local home center.
Of course, you can build your own custom accessories
(for drawers and shelves, especially). Be sure to
measure any accessory you plan to buy-prepackaged
items often have nominal measurements on the
packaging. For example, baskets are often sized

nominally and therefore do not need clearance
added to the space required for them in your
design, while drawers usually require a 1" clearance
in your design. If ordering accessories online
ask a representative for the actual and nominal
m easurem ents, so you can accurately design your
closet. Standard drawer sizes include 16 x 10" , 25 x
5", and 25 X 10". Standard basket widths are 16 and
24" , standard depths are 12 and 14", and standard
heights are 5 and 10".
I ,___
r-
1-
'-
c
H
A. wood dowel/ closet rod, B. plastic closet rod, C. small,

plastic closet rod, D. steel closet rod, E. glide-out belt rack,
F. glide-out tie rack, G. tie/belt rack, H. double wall hook,
I. and J. single wall hooks.
A. wire basket, B. and C. preassembled melamine drawers.
Planning
19
I Tools, Hardware & Fasteners

D
egardless of the type of closet system you install,

there are common hardware, fasteners, and tools
you'll use when building your custom closet. Your
blade types for saws should be appropriate for the
type of material you're using. An alternate-tooth blade
configuration and high grind angle make for clean cuts
on MDF and m elamine .
r-t I, .___
.....:-.:"1..~
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T
U
W ,
1
BB
AA
DD EE FF
I
CC
HH
JJ
KK
LL
MM
NN
II
I
A. circular saw (with melamine blade for melamine applications)' B. brad nailer/stapler, C. cordless nailer, D. drill press, E. finish
nailer, F. table saw, G. stud finder/laser level, H. household iron, I. plumb bob, J. angle finder, K. framing square, L. hacksaw,
M. flashlight, N. Torpedo level, o. hammer, P. rubber mallet, Q. prybar, R. level, S. nail puller, T. paint scraper, U. putty knife,
v. pliers, W. needlenose pliers, X. painter's tape, Y. masking tape, Z. tape measure, AA. drill bits, BB. 20 mm and %" drill bits,
CC. 5 mm drill bits, DO. flush-cutting bit, EE. router bit, FF. reverse-thread screw extractor bit, GG. utility knife, HH. spade bit,
II. nailset, JJ. Phillips screwdriver, KK. flathead screwdriver, LL. 112" wood chisel, MM. %" wood chisel, NN. 1" wood chisel,
00. cordless drill/driver, PP. router, QQ. drill, RR. jigsaw (with melamine blade for melamine applications).
20
BUILD YOUR OWN C USTO M C LOS ET
I Standard Hardware & Fasteners

Standard hardware and fasteners are often used in
conjunction with the specialty hardware (on page
22). For traditional closet systems (namely built-ins),
everything you need is here.
Typical closet installation requires wood screws
for studs, dIY'",all screws for drywall, and Euro or
barrel screws and knock-down (KD) screws/dowels
for use within the shelving material. When choosing
screws for anchors, match the screw thread to that of
the anchor. Also check the maximum fixture thickness
to ensure the screw is long enough to go through your
material and fasten into the anchor.
'"not actual size
.-i'! ~I
.~
.......... 011
s
T
u _ ________
BB
AA
A. 10d finish nail, B. 8d finish nail, C. 6d finish nail, D. 4d finish nail, E. 1%" drywall screw, F. 3/4" drywall screw, G. 15jg" drywall
screw, H. 2W ' drywall screw, I. and J. toggle bolts, K. %" panhead screw, L. and M. wood screws, N. 1%" panhead screw,
O. steel L-brackets ("corner" brackets), P. wood glue, Q. melamine glue, R. door hinges for cabinets, S. shims, T. metal shelf,
standards, U. mending plate, V. biscuits, W. door knobs, X. edgebanding tape, Y. drawer pulls, Z. metal shelf brackets,
AA. shelf pegs and pins, BB. wood dowels.
Planning
21
I Specialty Hardware & Fasteners

Contemporary modular units now use locking-cam
hardware. Hardware manufacturers often call these
parts "KDs" (knock-down fittings), while closet
companies and prepackaged closet manufacturers
call them "cams" or "locking cams." When making your
own custom closet, search hardware manufacturers
for KDs, KD screws, and KD screw and dowels
(see Resources).
The KD screw and dowels allow you to fasten two
modular shelves together through an adjoining vertical
panel, adding strength to each section and the overall
unit. Using this modular hardware allows you to also
have adjustable shelves set on pins, and it allows you
to move or add fixed shelves (the KDs simply "unlock"
with a screwdriver, allowing you to lift off the shelf).
Yet another reason modular closets are more

adjustable is because adjustable hanging brackets
are fastened to verticals, which are then hung on
hanging rails on the wall. These brackets allow you
to adjust the verticals plumb. You also can readjust
the verticals as you're installing the closet system.
If you have to mount shelves or a mounting rail on
drywall, use anchors. For heavy loads , the anchor
of choice is a Toggler bolt; for medium loads metal
toggle bolts are used; for lighter loads self-drilling
m etal anchors or plastic anchors are used (see
Resources). Shelving and most accessories are
fastened to verticals with Euro or barrel screws that
fit right into the predrilled shelf-pin holes of shelving
stock available at home centers.
I Wire Shelving Hardware & Fasteners

The hardware and fasteners for wire shelving is unique
unto itself. They oftentimes are provided with wire
shelving packages. However, if you purchase bulk
wire shelving with the intent to c ut to size according
to a custom design, most home centers now carry the
hardware and fasteners separately to get the job done.
c
A
G
D '
F
L
.' L
M
A. support brackets, B. vinyl-coated wire shelving, C. clothing

rod, D. clothing rod hanger, E. side-wall support for rod,
F. wall clips, G. side-wall support brackets, H. wire endcaps,
I. connector bracket, J. manufacturer screws, K. wall anchors,
l. connectors, M. bracket anchors.
22
BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM C LO SET
A. Toggler SnapToggle %-20, B. Euro cabinet door hinge,

C. knock-down fitting (KD), D. connecting bolts (KD dowel),
E. a single connector bolt, F. panhead screws, G. Euro screw,
H. self-drilling anchor, I. double-ended bolt (KD screw/dowel
connector), J. connecting bolt (KD screw), K. connecting bolt
(KD screw), l. Euro or "barrel" screw, M. flathead screw,
N. machine screw, O. self-drilling toggle, P. hanging bracket
(fastened to verticals).
I How to Use Toggler Bolts

A
Drill a hole in the wall according to manufacturer
instructions, and then insert the metal flange into it.
Pull the flange tight against the inside of the wall and slide
Snap off the plastic ends so the remaining anchor is flush
the plastic ring against the front of the wall.
to the wall. Drive machine screws through shelf or rail into

anchor using Phillips screwdriver.
How to Use Self-drilling Metal Anchors
Drive the anchor into wall in between
Insert a screw through rail and
As you drive the screw into the
studs. As the threads touch drywall,

slowly tighten the toggle until it's
nearly flush to wall.
into anchor.
anchor, the metal flange pulls tight

against the inside of the wall.
Planning
23
I Survey the Closet Space

T
he first step in building a custom closet is to come

up with a design based on the planned space.
The design phase is extremely important and must
be accurate and thorough if you are to achieve your
desired results and have a smooth installation. Here
is a list of materials you will need to design your
closet system:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler or straightedge
Notepad
Graph paper with a scale
BIFOLD
DOOR
~I~~------------------------CBACK ------------------------~~~I
BSIDE
DSIDE
r------
A RETURN
-------l~~1
Sections are often labeled alphabetically-this helps to keep measurements organized during the design
stage. Most reach-in and wa lk-in closets consist of return, side, and back walls. Occasionally, small reach-in closets
(often placed in the home for pantry or linen needs) lack official return walls.
24
Measure the width and height of the door opening(s).

. .. . '1
Hang a plumb bob from the ceiling and measure between
Measure large and ornate molding that you intend to
the string and the wall at several locations to check for bowed
or irregular walls. Measure the return walls, side walls, and
back wall, using a measuring tape.
leave in place and work around.
I How to Survey a Closet

A. MEASURING THE CLOSET SPACE
1. Using your measuring tape, measure your ceiling
height. Write down all of your measurements on
a notepad. If you have vaulted ceilings, make sure
you measure both the lowest and highest points of
the ceiling. Also, use an angle finder to determine
the slope in between thos e two points.
2. Identify bowed or irregular walls by hanging a
plumb bob from the ceiling near the work area
and measuring between the string and the wall
at several points. Mark the wall at the shortest
distance: built-in units should be constructed
so the back is plumb and flush at this point.
3. Next, measure the length of all walls, including
return walls. No te: The return wall measurement
gives you the maximum depth the verticals can be.
Standard shelf depths are 12", 14", 16") and 18".
B. MEASURING FOR DOORS

1. Measure your door width and height.
2. Note the door type. It can make a difference in
your design layout if you have bifold, swing, sliding,
or pocket doors. Note: Walls that contain pocket
doors must be marked for the depth in which the
pocket door slides into the wall (that is) any portion
of the wall that includes the door cavity). This wall
space cannot support wall-hung systems.
C. MEASURING BASE MOLDING
Finally, measure the height and depth of your base
molding. This is necessary if you plan to notch around
the molding or keep a wall-hung unit above the
molding. Note: If base molding does not need to remain
in place and is an obstacle for a floor-based system or
built-in (see page 16) remove it.
Planning
25
I Identify Obstructions
I
dentifying obstructions in your design can make

the difference between a weekend installation and
a week-long installation. Some typical obstructions
you will find in a closet are: light switches, outlets,
ventilation ducts, pipes, electrical panels, overhead
lights, and sprinkler systems. It's important to measure
these obstructions, allow for space according to
local codes, and incorporate this information into
your overall design. You don't want to find out during
installation that a vertical panel is going to hit an
outlet or cover a heating vent, for example.
Also check for pipes, ducts, wood blocking, or
other obstructions inside your walls. A quality stud
finder will help with this. Studs are often placed 16"
apart, so if your stud finder picks up on something
in between that, avoid drilling holes in that area.
Plumbing is usually routed along walls with toilets
or sinks, so take extra precaution if you're working
in a closet that shares a wall with these items on the
other side.
Remove baseboards and other moldings to make room

for a built-in or floor-based system that wil l fit flush against the
wall. Use a flat pry bar with a wood block to prevent damage
to the wa ll, and pry carefully to avoid splintering the molding.
(Inset) Move electrical receptacles and other fixtures, if they
are in the way of your planned design. You also may need to
add receptacles. Note: If you are not experienced at working
with wiring, hire an electrician to do this work.
~,
Pipes or sprinklers may be harder to re-route than work

around. Be sure to check with local building codes to determine
the required space to leave open around sprinklers, pipes, and
outlets. Measure and mark lines around these obstacles.
26
. ,."
1 . --"'-f~
~
Measure the distance wall lights are hung from

the corner. If your planned vertical depth is greater
than this space, your unit cannot hang vertica ls flush
into the corner.
I Choose a Closet System

N
that you have measured your space and

identified possible obstructions, you'll want to
determine which system is right for your space-builtin, floor-based, or wall-hung systems are the three
most common choices when it comes to custom
designs. Usually in new homes, any system will work.
It's more a matter of personal taste. However, in an
older home, wall-hung systems are preferable because
you don't have to worry if the floors and walls are
uneven. Wall-hung systems hang on a wall track, using
brackets that can be adjusted for a plumb installation
despite an imperfect wall.
OW
Wall Hung: Pros
Wall Hung: Cons
Easy to install
Easy to make leve l, even
if floors and wa lls are
not square
No notching around
baseboards
Nice clean, contemporary
look with everything off
the floor
Allows removal or cleaning
of closet flooring
Weight limitations
Depth limitations
Doesn't have
built-in look
Floor Based: Pros
Floor Based : Cons
Minimal weight limitations

Allows for deeper shelving
Has built-in look and feel
More difficult installation

Harder to level if floors
and walls are not square
Need to remove or notch
around baseboards
More difficult to replace
and clean closet flooring
Mildly difficult to tear out
Built -in: Pros
Built-in: Cons
Sturdy and permanent

appearance
Minimal weight limitation
Allows for deeper shelving
Difficult installation
Typically constructed
with more expensive
wood materials
Cannot replace or clean
flooring unless unit is
torn out
Very difficult to tear out
wall-hung units hang on a track, so perfectly level

floors are not required . Howeve r, if the tracks do not offer
adjustability, irregular walls must be accurately measured
and all verticals and cleats must be adjusted to these
measurements for a plumb installation .
A floor-based unit adds extra storage, but is more

difficult to level on uneven floors. For slight inconsistencies,
wood shims can be used under the units. Notch around large
baseboards.
Built-ins are permanently joined to the structure of the

house. They add a custom look to your home and allow you to
use awkward or wasted spaces.
Planning
27
Design
F
or many people the design stage is the most

enjoyable. It is the time when you start to look
at materials and custom options. It is a time to truly
inspect your items and the space you have to store
those items. The more time spent up front inspecting
and designing, the smoother the installation will
be later.
In this section:
Take Inventory
Graph Your Custom Design
Determine Materials Needed & Cut Lists
Sample Designs
29
I Take Inventory
A
fter yo u survey yo ur closet space and determine

which system is right for your space, it's time
to determine what you want to accomplish with the
closet. Ninety percent of closets are us ed for wardrobe
storage, so we will explain the design steps for that
usage now. The same basic methods can be applied
to other types of closets. First make a list of all the
items you plan on putting back into your closet.
Here is a guick reference guide to help you make an
inventory list:
1. How much short-hang do you need?
2. How much long-hang do you need?
3. How much medium-hang
(or pants by the cuff) do you need?
4. How much shelf storage do you need?
5. How much drawer space do you need?
Checklist ~
Here is a checklist to help you walk through the inventory
survey process. Be sure to take note of frequently used
items and reserve easy-access locations for them.
Item
Shelves
Shoes
Sweaters and
bulky shirts
Folded items
Seasonal clothing
(top shelf
or drawers)
T-shirts
(or drawers)
Hats
Long-, medium-, and short-hang classification is

determined by the sizes of your clothing and how you
like to store that clothing. Separate clothing and items
into categories by likeness. For example, hang all of
the long-hanging items toge ther on a rod (followed by
medium hang and short hang). Then fold and stack all
of the sweaters you intend to store on shelves, all of
your shoes, and all of your hobby supplies (items not
part of your wardrobe that you'd like to fit into your
closet). See the chart on this page for guidelines on
how clothing is typically categorized.
To ensure your folded items remain neat on
shelves, plan on stacking bulky sweaters in groups of
three or four and T-shirts or thinner clothing in stacks
of five or six.
Purses
Large objects
(luggage, for
example)
Longhang
Dress pants
(by the cuff)
Long skirts
Long dresses
Mediumhang
Dress shirts
Pants (folded)
Shorthang
Shorts (folded,
or fold and store
in drawers)
Short skirts
Short dresses
Drawers
or Baskets
30 BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM C LO SET
(W xD xH)
Quantity
Space Needed
I How to Take Inventory

A. DETERMINE HANGING SPACE
1. Measure the linear feet of your hanging
clothes. This gives you the minimum amount
of space needed.
2. Decipher how much short hang is needed and how
much long hang is needed. If you hang your pants
by the cuff, then you need to design a mediumhang section. If you fold them over hangers, then
you can design a double-hang section.
B. DETERMINE SHELVING SPACE
1. Determine how many linear or cubic feet of
shelving is needed for sweaters and folded clothes.
2. Count the shoes and purses. Be sure to separate
out any irregular items, like tall boots, and count
them separately.
3. Determine the maximum height needed for each
category of shelving items. For example, 24 shoes
@ 6",6 boots @ 12". Standard shelves are 12" to
13" in height. As a general rule of thumb, add 3" to
the height of your object for actual shelving height.
The extra space allows for easy access to the items.
C. REVIEW & DETERMINE ACCESSORY SPACE
1. Lastly, do you want to incorporate drawers and
baskets into the closet? Consider adding some kind
of laundry solution, like a hamper, and drawers,
especially for socks and undergarments. You also
may like to add a jewelry insert into one of the
drawers (typically the top drawer and a slightly
smaller version than other drawers). Estimate
the needed space for these items. Often you can
determine if your sock pile is big enough to fill a
30 x 12 x 12" drawer or if you need something
deeper. Or if you prefer to add sock inserts, you'll
have to spread your socks out more, requiring less
depth but perhaps more drawers.
2. Now it's time for the design review. This is when
you revisit which closet system is best not only for
your space (whic h sometimes limits which system
you use), but also which system is best for your
items. A floor-based system, for example, instantly
gives you more storage space because shelving and
drawers extend to the floor. Now is also the time to
finalize your materials and finishes. Do you want
maple, cherry, or white shelving? Do you want to
add crown molding or have toe-kicks?
A
..
-. - - - -
::
Measure the total (minimum) linear feet of hanging

space you'll need based on the existing hanging items in
your closet.
Measure the total (minimum) linear feet of shelving
you'll need to accommodate the items you plan to store in

the closet.
Take inventory of other items you'll want to store in
the closet. Determine what types (and approximate sizes)

of accessories you'll need.
Design
31
I Graph Your Custom Design

oW that you have surveyed your closet space and
your clothing inventory, it's time to design your
closets. Use graph paper with a scale of your choosing
(e.g., one box on the graph will represent 2") to create
two plans for each closet. The first is a floor plan.
The floor plan is a bird's-eye view of the closet. It lays
out the overall dimensions of the space and exhibits the
depths of the closet components.
The second is an elevation plan. This is the place to
add custom features to the design. For example, wall A
may consist of single and double hanging, while wall B
may include drawers, shoe shelves, and a space for long
hanging. In the elevation plan, the detail of each wall
is laid out. In each elevation plan, identify wall heights

and widths as well as detail all the closet components
and accessories-including the height and width of the
entire closet system.
Be sure to include the thickness of all vertical
panels in your overall dim ensions. A typical vertical
panel is %" thick. This amount must be accounted for
when determining the lengths of the shelves. If you are
using four vertical panels in your design, make sure to
account for those 3" in your overall scheme.
Measuring Tip
FLOOR PLAN
_ C 4 ~ 1 3 % '~1
30"
longhang ~,1 '18'

sect ion
II
@
shelves & drawe rs
section
36"
lit
14
doub le-hang
section
These tips will help you design a closet in a way that

makes the most of your space.
Divide hanging spaces into two sections to
maximize hanging space and free up wall space for
drawers and shelves.
In reach-in closets, it's best to place drawers or
baskets in the middle of the closet, so return walls
won't prevent drawers from opening.
In narrow walk-in closets, it's best to have shelving
sections on the left and right walls placed near the
door opening and your hanging sections closer to
the back wall. Hangers usually stick out 22" from the
wall, so having shelving (instead of hangers) near the
door opening will prevent you from bumping into the
hangers as you enter your closet.
1
10
6 6"
@
double hang
sect ion
door
opening
3 6"
16"
t - - - - - - - - - 96" - - - - - - - - ;
Use scaled graph paper to create a basic floor plan. Be sure

to leave space for obstacles, according to local codes.
ELEVATION PLAN
@
~/
3 17/, "
rI'
1--0
CW
3 17/ , "
f'
1-13%~'
~
CW
3 0"
32
BUI LD YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLOSET
3~ '
0
3{411
36"
Using the same

type of graph
paper, add the
custom features in
an elevation plan .
I Determine Materials Needed and Cut Lists

on plans. This is the height at which the bottom of the
rail should be aligned. Installing the rail at that point
allows the top of the finished sys tem to rest 84" high .
A lower mounting height may be needed if a different
end height is desired. Follow rail and bracket
manufacturer instructions. Determine the mounting
height by subtracting the width of the nailer or rail (and
shelf cleats, if you're using them along the underside of
top shelves) from the desired closet height. Here is an
example cut list based on the elevation plan on page 32.
oW that you have your floor plans and elevation

plans drawn, it's time to figure out exactly what you
need and how much of it you need. Refer to the list on
page 30. Here is a sample materials list based on the
elevation plan on page 32.
The cut list consists of the actual dimensions for all
of your finished, cut pieces. Your plans show the total
height of the closet. The height of the unit is drawn to
scale. For systems that use a nailer or hanging rail there
is also a "mounting height," which is typically not shown
EXAMPLE: Tools, Materials & Cutting List

(7) Verticals: Melamine shelf stock
3/4" X 8' X 14"
(6) Shelves: Melamine shelf stock
3/4" X 8' X 14"
Alternative to 8' stock shelves is to buy
melamine sheets, cut to size, and drill
all shelf-pin holes along verticals
(3) Closet rods with cups 3 17/8"
(2) Closet rods with cups 36"
(4) Pre-built drawers
30" X 12" x 10" , nominal
(1) Basket on track system
30" X 14" X 10", nominal
Key Part
Mounting height
81" (Actual height of

system is 84 ")
Verticals
40"
Verticals
31
Shelves
3]7;8"
Shelves
14"
Shelves
13%"
Shelves
30"
Shelves
36"
Closet rods (with cups)
76"
Closet rods (with cups)
35 11116"
Drawers
28 x 14 x 10", actual
Basket
28 x 14 x 1", actual
9;16"
Tip: How to Determine Actual Measured Height
Pes. Material
Dimension
Unit heig t
Measure up to 81" and mark a
Align the bottom of the wall
Set vertical in place with bracket
level line on the wall.
rail with the level line on wall, and

fasten to wall with a few screws.
over rail.
Design
33
I Sample Designs
FLOOR PLAN - 90"
3J. "
3j. "
~4
SECTIONS:
,,I
,I
/@
28 '
TOp /
16 ,,',I
l'
II 14 " I 14
24
14 "
3j. "
l'
II
36
T
With a small walk-in closet it is often best to have the
connector shelf on the longest wall. In this example, the back
wall has the connector shelf to maximize the storage potential
on the 30"-long side wall. This takes advantage of the extra 8"
of wall space on the side wa ll (the back wall space available is
28" long). In small closets, every inch counts!
x 30" WALK IN
connector
shelf
--------
1 ______ - - - - - - - - -
ELEVATION PLAN - 90" X 30" WALK IN
A - Double-hang Section
B - Shelves, Drawers, and Basket

C - Corner Connection with Long-hang (D)
D - Shelves and Long-hang Section
SPECIFICATIONS:
Short-hang = 36"
Medium-hang = 36"
Long-hang = 30"
Shelves = 156"
Basket = 1 @ 24"
Drawers = 4 @ 24" ea.
@
side
view
--
@
front
view
I
I
I
I
I
I
II
I
I
II
Uloor
Keep sections with baskets or pre made

drawers the same size in each section to
make product shopping (or construction)
easier. Stop by your local store before
designing to see what sizes and styles are
available. If your closet has double bifold
doors, there is a section in the middle
of your closet that is going to be hard to
reach. Measure this space and incorporate
it into your design. It is best used as
hanging space, so you can slide items hid
behind the doors into easier access. Other
storage options-such as shelving-will
be more cumbersome when it comes to
retrieving items from this space.
FLOOR PLAN - 150" X 28"

3j. "
J'Ip.-1
I
I
I
I
14"1
1 L_____________ _
_______________ JI
ELEVATION PLAN - 150" X 28"

- ~3;: "
4
-- - -3/ "
14
- - 3/ "
/4
SPECIFICATIONS:
3/ "
14
----
3/ "
14
---
3/ "
14
, 96"
36'~24"__*_31 1;,~24"__*_30"_4I ceiling
B - Shelves, Drawers, and Basket
C - Shelves and Long-hang Section
D - Shelves, Drawers, and Basket
E - Double-hang Section
34
3/4 "
-----'L_-----'L--_-----'L--_~________'I
II
II
II
II
I
SECTIONS:
Short-hang = 30"
Medium-hang = 102"
Long-hang = 311J2"
Shelves = 260"
Basket = 2 @ 24"
314"
3/4 "
36'~24"__*_311/2~24"__*_30"_4I
_@
314"
3/4 "
~4
L=,=='==""'='=='==~=='='=='=='=='==~=='==='==""'='===='=~...";,,. floor
Every so often a designer has to contend with a

difficult layout. One of the most common non-typical closets
is a "tunnel closet." This closet has a longer wall section along
one side of the door opening. A closet can be considered a
tunnel closet if the longer return wall is twice as long as the
other door-side wall (or at least 10" longer from the end wall
to the door molding). One potential solution for a tunnel closet
is to position the hanging sections along the side walls of the
closet. This configuration will maximize your hanging and will
also give you better access to your clothing.
FLOOR PLAN - 140" X 60" TUNNEL CLOSET
I.I @
28 %
"@
1i
92"
H ..
-1
I-:;-;-;;-i
14
ELEVATION PLAN - 140" X 60" TUNNEL CLOSET

3// -
3//
- 3//
3// 3j. " i
30"'- ---1nl--- 30~24"---1l-24~I
I-W-+-14VrD
ceiling .. 96"
top shelf
side
view
floor
SECTIONS:
SPECIFICATIONS:
B - Double-hang Section
C - Corner Connection with Long-hang (B)
D - Double-hang Section
E - Shelves, Drawers, and Basket
F - Shelves and Medium-hang
G - Sheves and Long-hang
Short-hang = 87W'
Medium-hang = 111 W'
Long-hang = 24"
Shelves = 264"
Basket = 1 @ 30"
ELEVATION PLAN - 48" X 28"

ENTRYWAY CLOSET
r--------------------------, cei ling .. 96"
13/4'
7 "
%'
FLOOR PLAN - 48" x 28"

ENTRYWAY CLOSET
'{4'
%"
%"
II--- 22 7/s':.............f22 7/8 ~
7 "
lit"
I
_______....l1
I
I
I floor
The most underutilized space

is often found in entryway closets.
By taking full advantage of such
spaces you'll find that even the
smallest closets can offer a place for
your coats and your guests' coatsand maybe even some of your bulky
winter clothing or seasonal rain gear!
Start with this small and often ignored
space, and you'll recognize the full
effects of a well-organized closet.
SECTIONS:
SPECIFICATIONS:
A - Double-hang
B - Shelves and Medium-hang
Short-hang = 227/8"
Medium-hang = 227/8"
Long-hang = 227/8"
Shelves = 685Js"
IL.... __ ______ _ ________ _______ JI
Design
35
Basics
T
his section includes detailed descriptions for all

of the basic techniques that are used during a
custom closet installation. It is a great starting point,
and a section that you will refer to again and again.
In this section:
Tearing Out Old Closet Material
Adding Shelves
Installing Corner Units
Installing Wire Shelving
Installing a Basic Closet Organizer
Installing a Basic Shelving Organizer
37
I Tearing Out Old Closet Material

T
o prepare the area, you must first tear out existing

material. Wire shelving is the most common to
remove because it is the standard shelving added to
closets for new construction and for resale homes.
Other systems that you may want to remove are
wall-hung or floor-based units. There are a variety of
reasons for why you would remove an existing unit
and start over from scratch, namely for a customized
closet specific to your needs. All of the removals
follow the same basic procedures and require standard
tools. There are instructions in the floor-based system
removal that are relevant to removing a built-in, too.
Tip
Lay down a moving blanket just outside of the closet.

This will prevent your floors from getting dirty from the
removed closet materials. Set a bucket on the blanket
for collecting removed hardware and fasteners.
Tools & Materials

Phillips screwdriver
Slotted screwdriver
Drill
Prybar
Utility knife
Hammer
Putty (or wallboard)
knife
Fast-drying spackle
ISO-grit sandpaper
(for sanding
spackle smooth)
Pliers
Vacuum
Wood strip or block
nail set
Sponge
PVAprimer
Paintbrush
Paint
Framing square
Wallboard saw or jigsaw
11/4" wallboard screws
1/ 2" wallboard (or metal
thickness of existing
wallboard)
Self-adhesive wallboard
tape
Wood putty
I How to Remove Wire Shelving

A. REMOVE SUPPORT BRACKETS &
SHELF CLIPS
1. Completely remove support brackets along back
wall by first removing the screws holding them
in place.
2. Pull the brackets out from under the wire shelving,
tilting them back toward the wall if needed.
3. Remove the shelf clips. Pull them out of the
wall or pry them out with a slotted screwdriver
until you can pull them out. For clips that are
screwed to the wall, unscrew them with a
cordless screwdriver.
B. REMOVE SHELVING
1. Flip up release clips, if they are present.
2. Un clip the wire shelves from the sidewall supports.
In most cases, to do this you simply lift up on the
shelves to pull them out of the supports. Follow
manufacturer instructions if they are available.
C. REMOVE SIDE-WALL SUPPORTS
Use a drill or screwdriver to remove the supports
fastened to side walls . For brackets that have been
nailed to the wall, use a prybar to pull out the nails.
Remove the shelf clips and support brackets along the back
wall using a screwdriver.
Lift up on shelving to unclip wire shelving from return wa ll
Unscrew the return wall brackets on the wa lls.
supports. Remove all shelves.
Basics
39
I How to Remove a wall-hung Unit

A. DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT
1. Remove all of the adjustable shelves by simply
lifting them off the pins and pulling them out. Pull
out all of the shelf pins. Set everything outside of
the closet. Stacking items neatly now will make for
easy re-installation or removal to the trash.
2. Starting at the top and at one end of the closet,
remove L-brackets from fixed shelves (or unfasten
cleats from the wall) using a drill.
3. Unlock the KDs in that same section with a
screwdriver, and remove the shelf. Then remove
the KD screws from the verticals. Pry out the KDs
from the shelves, using a screwdriver if necessary.
Repeat for each fixed shelf in that section.
4. Finally, remove the far left vertical by simply lifting
it off the rail. Unscrew the rail bracket to remove it
from the vertical.
5. Repeat step 3 through step 5 for the next section.
6. Repeat for each section as you move along the wall
until the en tire unit is disassembled.
B.
1.
2.
3.
REMOVE THE WALL-MOUNTING RAIL

Slide the fabric cover off the rail.
Unscrew the rail from the wall.
Vacuum or sweep the closet floor.
C. ALTERNATIVE: REMOVE A WALL CLEAT

1. Cut along the perimeter of the wall-mounting
cleat(s) using a utility knife. This helps prevent old
caulk or paint from peeling the paint or tearing the
drY'",all paper.
2. If the cleats are fastened with screws, remove the
screws. If cleats are nailed to the wall, use a pry
bar to pry the cleat away from the wall.
3. Unlock KDs and lift shelf and cleat away from
unit. Pry a little bit along the entire wall and repeat
until the cleat is loosened.
4. Vacuum or sweep the closet floor.
Remove the screws in the wall rail; then remove toggles.
Work from the outside toward the center so you end up in the
middle, where it is easiest to balance the rail and lower it from
the wall.
Disassemble the entire unit. starting with removal of
Alternative: To remove a wall cleat. first score along the
adjustable shelves, then fixed shelves and accessories, and

finally verticals.
edges with a utility knife, and then pry it away from the wall
with a prybar, or remove all screws.
40
I How to Repair Small Holes in a Wall

A
Fill holes with lightweight spackle, using a putty knife.
scrape or sand away any loose plaster, peeled paint, or

wa llboard face to ensure a solid base for patching.
Lightly sand the area with 150-grit sandpaper.
For a professional appearance, carefully check your

walls for damage after a tear out, and repair the
wallboard or plaster as needed. After a tearout it's
almost inevitable that you'll need to patch holes in
walls, especially small nail holes. But occasionally
some of the wallboard face will come loose and that,
too, needs to be repaired before attempting to install a
new closet system. We recommend premixed patching
compounds to reduce drying time. These quick-drying
materials allow you to patch and paint a wall in the
same day.
B. FILL HOLES WITH SPACKLE

1. Fill holes with lightweight spackle. Apply the
spackle with the smallest putty knife or wallboard
knife that will span the entire hole.
2. Let the spackle dry.
Note: For larger holes, you may need to apply two
coats of spackle. Let the first coat dry completely
before adding the second coat.
A.REMOVE LOOSE MATERIALS

Scrape, peel, or sand away any loose plaster, peeled
paint, or wallboard face paper (tear off only loose
paper, removing as little paper as possible) to ensure
a solid base for patching.
C. SAND & FINISH

1. Once the spackle is completely dry, sand the
surface smooth with ISO-grit sandpaper.
2. Wipe away dust with a slightly dampened
sponge, and then prime the area with
PYA primer.
3. Paint or finish the walls as desired before
starting to design the interior for a new closet.
Basics
41
I How to Repair a Large Wall Hole

A
Outline the damaged area with a framing square. Cut away
Install wood backer strips with 11/4" wallboard screws.
the damaged section with a jigsaw or drywall saw.
For large holes, it's best to replace that section of the

wall instead of attempting to m end it. H ere's how to
patch a large hole in wallboard:
A. MEASURE THE DAMAGED AREA

1. Outline th e damaged area with a framing square .
2. Us e a wallboard saw or jigsaw to cut away the
damaged section . Note: Make sure there are no
electrical wires or plumbing pipes in the wall
before cutting.
B. INSTALL BACKER STRIPS AND PATCH
1. Cut two pieces of wood to use as backer strips .
Install the backer strips with 11/4 " wallboard
screws.
2. Cut a wallboard patch to size, and then screw the
wallboard patch in place over the backer strips.
3. Cove r the seams with self-adhesive mesh
wallboard tap e, and then apply wallboard
compound . Le t the compound dry completely,
then add a second coat, and let it dry.
C. FINISHING TOUCHES
1. Use a slightly dampe ned sponge or wallboard
wet-sander to smooth the repair area . This
eliminates dust caused by dry sanding.
2. Sand the area smooth. Prime and repaint,
if desired.
42
BUILD YOUR O W N C USTOM C LOSET
Apply wallboard tape over the seams, then apply two coats
of wallboard compound and wet-sand the area (inset).
Tip
If the hole is significant enough to patch but only

a few inches in diameter, cover the entire hole with
a peel-and-stick repair patch-backer strips and
wallboard are not necessary in this scenario. The patch
has a metal mesh center for strength and can be cut
or shaped as needed. Use a wallboard knife to cover
the patch with spackle or wallboard compound-two
coats may be needed. Let the patch set until it is
nearly dry and proceed to step C (this page).
I How to Remove a Floor-based System

A. REMOVE ADJUSTABLE SHELVES
& MOLDING
1. First remove all adjustable shelves and pins.
Simply lift up on shelves and stack them outside
of the closet. Pull stubborn pins out of verticals
with pliers.
2. Moving across the entire length of the unit, wedge
a prybar under the molding. Use a hammer to tap it
in under the molding enough to loosen the molding
from the unit. Once it is loosened, pry out the
molding until you can completely remove it.
3. Remove tie or belt racks by wedging a slotted
screwdriver behind the item and gently pushing
away from the vertical. Once loose, pull the rack
straight out, away from the vertical. Note: If dowel
screws were used, remove them with a screwdriver
(check the dowel for a slotted or Phillips head ).
B. REMOVE ACCESSORIES
& FIXED SHELVES
1. Completely remove all drawers, baskets, and other
accessories; then remove the accompanying tracks
from the verticals.
2. Disassemble the fixed shelves from the verticals.
Starting at the top and at one end of the closet,
unscrew all of the supporting screws or KDs

and remove the top shelf. Repeat for each shelf
in the section.
3. Unscrew the side-wall vertical from the wall.
4. Repeat the above steps for each section as you
move along the wall. Set shelves and verticals
outside of the closet.
1. Remove the floor support lumber. The lumber may
have been nailed to the floor for extra stability-if
so, gently pry up on the lumber until you can grip
the nails with pliers and release them. Repeat for
any ceiling supports. Note: Such supports are most
often used in built-in units, but they can be and
occasionally are used in floor-based units.
2. Using pliers and a wood strip to protect the floor,
pull out any remaining nails for the floor. For
extremely stubborn nails that are in the floor, use
a nail set to sink them l/S" below the surface.
3. Fill the holes in the floor with wood putty. Fill the
holes left in the wall with spackle. Allow the putty
and spackle to completely dry.
4. Sand floor and wall patches smooth. Prime and
paint the walls as desired.
Remove adjustable shelves by
Remove all accessories and their
Use a pry bar to evenly pull up on floor
simply lifting them off pegs, then

remove pegs. (Inset) Remove molding
around the unit using a prybar.
accompanying tracks. Also remove fixed

shelves and their accompanying
KD screws and dowels.
supports that have been secured to the

floor with nails. Once they are lifted,
grab nails with pliers to remove them.
Basics
43
I Adding Shelves
W
hen considering shelves for your c ustom closet,

choose materials appropriate for the loads
they must support. Also keep in mind that because
adjustable shelving does not provide support for
the shelving unit, you can choose material more for
design value than structural support. For example,
a few tempered glass shelves for lighter loads add a
decorative element unmatched by other materials.
The strength of a shelf depends on its material
and the span-the distance between verticals or
supports. In general, shelves should be no more than
36" long for clothing, shoes, and other lightweight
storage (24" long if the shelving is made of tempered
glass). For heavy items, such as books, shelf span
must be shorter. Shelves longer than this will likely
bow over time, and this places pressure on the
verticals. The end result is often a closet system that
caves in on itself. The days of caved-in closets are
numbered thanks to modular systems. Modular closets
incorporate verticals with brackets that fasten to wall
rails. These wall rails make it virtually impossible
for verticals to cave in, because each vertical is
individually supported to the rail.
In contemporary closets, fixed shelves are often
placed at the top , middle, and bottom of each section
to add strength and support to the unit. Fixed shelves
are placed wherever the added structural support is
needed-for example, shelves on top and below a
Melamine-covered
particleboard
You can incorporate different shelving materials in your

custom design. The most common shelving materials are
shown here (above) and are shown in order of strength.
row of drawers will be fixed to add structural support

to this heavier area. Fixed shelves are fastened to
the verticals and at the same time joined together
through the verticals with modular hardware or basic
joinery methods (see next page), thus they are able
to share weight and add overall strength to the entire
closet unit. Fixed shelves also are screwed to the wall
(either with cleats or L-brackets). Other shelves are
adjustable, set on metal brackets or pins that are fit
into holes in verticals.
KD screw/dowel
Top (fixed)
shelf
Vertical
sideview
Knock-down fittings (KDS) hold the top shelf in place

but also support the adjoining shelves on opposite sides of
each adjacent vertical. This creates a solid, cohesive, and
sturdy unit.
44
Shelf peg
Shelf pins
Butt joint
Clip
Cleats
Cleats are
Track
often fastened
to shelves with
glue and dowels.
They are fixed to
verticals and the
wall with screws.
L-bracket
Dado joint
The tracks sit in
grooves in the vertical.
_~~
There are several

types of l-brackets
available at home
centers. Choose the
bracket most suitable
for the weight load of
shelving.
Shelf span is the distance between verticals. A shorter span
strengthens a shelf.
Basics
45
I Modular Shelves
Modular shelves are constructed with standardized
dimensions, allowing flexibility and variety in use.
These modular shelves hold together wall-hung or
floor-based units. The KDs used in the shelves allow
each shelf to lock into the supporting vertical and the
adjacent shelf on the other side of the vertical. The
depth of verticals is determined in the design stage.
Standard depths range from 12 to 18".
I How to prepare
Tools & Materials

3/4" melamine sheet
or shelf stock
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Planer
Drill with 1/4" bit
20 mm bit (or size
recommended by
KD manufacturer)
Right-angle drill
guide
Measuring tape
Pegboard scrap
Clamps
KDs
H eat-activated veneer
tape
Iron
Scraper
Hardwood block
Cloth
Modular Shelves
A. CUT VERTICALS
1. Measure and mark cutlines for each vertical panel.
2 . Cut verticals to size using a circular saw with a
melamine blade. Shelving stock makes for a good
straightedge; be sure to allow for cut waste from
the blade (or at least l/S").
3. Smooth rough edges down to the exact cutline
with a planer. Note: If your circular saw is cutting
smoothly, this step is not necessary.
B. MARK & DRILL PIN HOLES ON
VERTICALS
1. Mount a drill and W' bit in a right-angle drill
guide. Set the drill-stop for %" depth. Mark the
centers of first two pin holes %" down from the
top edges of the verticals and approximately 11/2"
in from side edges. Note: The placement of two
raUl S of shelf-pin holes from edges may slightly vary;
the key is to be consistent (all factory or storepurchased stock materials with predrilled holes work
for projects in this book).
2. On the inside face of one of the verticals, align
the factory edge of a pegboard scrap flush with
the vertical edge. Align a hole in the pegboard
over the 3/S " marks. Clamp the pegboard in place.
Repeat step 3 to drill pin holes on inside face of
remaining vertical(s).
3. Drill two rows of parallel holes in each riser,
about 11/2" from the edges of the riser, using
the pegboard as a guide. Note: T71ese holes also
provide the placement points for KDs. Follmll
specific instructions for pin-hole alignment from the
manufacturer of the hardware you use.
46
C. CUT ADJUSTABLE SHELVES

1. Measure the width between verticals (which is
determined by your custom design) and cut shelves
to size. For modular units, build shelves to be flush
with the front edges of verticals (in other words,
the same depth as verticals).
2. Make a jig by cutting a 6"-wide X 16"-long (or at
least 2" wider than your cut material) piece of
melamine shelving stock. Use this as a c utting
guide. Cla mp the factory edge of your guide to the
appropriate distance from the cutline (allowing for
your saw's base and blade size).
3. C ut your shelves to size using a circular saw
with a melamine blade.
D. PREPARE FIXED SHELVES
1. C ut shelves to size following step C above.
2. Align the top of the fixed shelf flush with
tops of verticals.
3. Mark KD locations on underside of shelf on center
to predrilled holes in vertical.
4. Predrill holes for KDs according to manufacturer
instructions at marked locations on underside
of shelf.
5. Press KDs into drilled h oles on underside of
shelf to check for an accurate fit.
E. FINISHING TOUCHES
1. Use heat-activated veneer tape to cover
unfinished edges that are seen. Bond the
tape with a household iron (or edgebander) .
2. Rub the tape with a block of hardwood covered in
cloth for a smooth finish. Trim ends and edges with
a scraper.
Mark cutlines for verticals and allow for (at least) 1jg"
Measure 3fs" on center to first shelf-pin hole down from
waste. Cut verticals with a circular saw with a melamine blade.

Smooth edges down to actual cutlines with a planer.
the top cut edge of vertical. Align pegboard holes to first two
marks and about 1W' from side edges of vertical. Drill two
rows of parallel holes in each vertical, using the pegboard
as a guide.
cut the shelves according to your custom design, using a
Mark KD locations on top fixed shelf, and then (inset) drill
circular saw with a melamine blade.
holes for KDs. Repeat for all fixed shelves.
Apply heat-activated veneer tape to all exposed edges for
Lock down fixed shelves with a Phillips screwdriver. Position
a finished appearance.
the screwdriver at 25 and twist clockwise until top shelf and

vertical are pulled together.
F. INSTALLING FIXED SHELVES

1. Drill KD screws into the pre drilled holes on
verticals. Lower the top shelf into place.
2. Lock down shelf KDs over KD screws using a
screwdriver.
3. Repeat this process for each fixed shelf.
Note: For fixed shelves that align with another f7Xed

shelf on the other side of the same vertical, use a KD
screw and dowel or ("connector bolt").
4. Plumb and level the entire unit; then fasten each
fixed shelf to the wall with two steel L-brackets.
Basics
47
I Metal Standards
Metal standards fit into grooves on verticals, offering
a neat, flush finished look. They are inexpensive and
effective for medium to heavy loads so long as the
shelf span is 16" or less and 3J4"-thick, finish-grade
plywood is used (or similar sturdy material).
Tools & Materials

Marking gauge
Router and straight
bit
Hacksaw
Shelf standards and
hardware
Heat-activated veneer
tape
Iron
Hardwood block
Utility knife
Sandpaper
Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside face of each
I How to Install
verti ca l. Insert metal standards to check for an accurate fit, and

then cut the standards to size.
Metal Standards
A. PREPARE VERTICALS
1. Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside
face of eac h vertical using a marking gauge.
Grooves should be at least I" from the edges.
2. Cut dadoes to depth and th ickness of metal
standards using a router. Test-fit standards to
make sure they fit, and then remove them.
Attach the metal standards using nails or screws provided
B. FASTEN STANDARDS TO VERTICALS

Cut metal standards to fit into dadoes. Make sure slots
are aligned so shelves are level, then fasten standards
with manufacturer nails or screws.
1. Build shelves to fit in between verticals (measure
the exac t distance between verticals), then insert
shelf clips into the slots on the metal standards.
Install the shelves.
2. Finish shelves with heat-activated veneer tape.
Bond the tape. Bond the tape with a household
iron, then rub the tape with a block of hardwood.
Trim the edges with utility knife.
48
by the manufacturer.
Insert shelf clips into the slots on the metal standards for
adjustable shelves.
I Fixed Shelves
Contrary to cabinetry, most closet systems do not
have a solid sheet of backing along the unit. It is not
necessary to have the backing piece because fixed
shelves and wall rails (which support each vertical)
provide the structural support needed. Closet systems
"fix" top, middle, and bottom shelves (see page 44).
Units supported by nailers (instead of a rail with
adjustable features) require fixed shelves with wood or
melamine cleats, because it is the cleat that ultimately
holds the entire unit to the wall (not the verticals).
Fasten wood cleats to top, middle, and bottom
shelves-the nailer stabilizes the verticals before
you fasten the fixed shelves to the wall.
Tools & Materials

Circular saw with
melamine blade
Drill
11/2" fluted wood
dowels
Wood mallet
Glue
Heat-activated
veneer tape
Iron
Hardwood block
Utility knife or scraper
1 X 2 cleats
3;,4"-thick melamine
shelf stock without
predrilled holes
I How to Prepare Fixed

Shelves with Cleats
A. DRILL DOWEL HOLES

1. Measure and cut shelves to size, using a circular
saw with a melamine blade.
2. Align the precut shelf with the cleat (which is cut
2" shorter in length) as they will look when the
joint is finished: center the cleat on the underside
of shelf, flush with the backside. Mark for dowel
holes every 3 to 4" on the shelf and cleat.
3. Drill dowel holes in the shelf at 1/2" deep, and
holes in the cleat at 11/4" deep.
B. FASTEN CLEAT TO SHELF
1. Test-fit the pieces by inserting 11/2" fluted dowels
in the cleat and tapping the shelf in place. Deepen
the dowel holes as needed.
2. Separate pieces and remove dowels, then apply
glue (appropriate for your shelving and cleat
material) to the dowels and insert them into
the holes in the shelf. Also apply glue to the
flat surfaces being joined. Note: When joining
melamine, apply glue to dowels only (not the
flat surfaces ).
C. FINISH
Assemble pieces, tapping them with a wood mallet
until the joint is snug. Completely wipe away any
excess glue, using a damp cloth. Allow the glue to
completely dry.
Drill %"-deep dowel holes every 3" to 4" on the shelves, and
driI11%"-deep dowel holes every 3" to 4" on the cleats.
Apply glue to the dowels and insert them into the shelf holes.
Fasten the 1X 2 cleat to shelf with 11f2" fluted dowels in the cleat.
Tap the cleat and shelf together with a rubber mallet, and
allow to dry.
Basics
49
I Installing Corner Units

T
here are two or three good techniques for getting

the most out of your corner spaces. The one you
ultimately choose will depend on your needs and
complete design. To incorporate these corner projects
into your custom designs or other projects in this
book, you want to start here-with planning and
understanding how to deal with the corners in your
closet. Once you have your corner designs chosen,
then you can plan the rest of your closet.
The first option is to have your back wall unit fit
flush into the corner while the perpendicular side unit
ends at least 12" away from the corner. This allows
you to get maximum use out of the back wall space
and still leaves ample room to walk behind the side
unit to reach clothing stored in the corner. You could
also make the walking space large enough to tuck a
bench behind the side unit for a private dressing area.
Another option is to leave the space on the back wall
(instead of the side wall) open with a space of at least
12". Which wall you choose to leave open is largely
dependent on maximizing storage (see design example
on page 34).
If your closet unit's top shelf is well above your
head, you can choose the first option (above) but add
a top connecting shelf between the back and side wall
units. This gives a more finished, modular appearance
and provides extra storage space on the top shelf. You
could take this a step further and add custom cabinets
all along the top shelf.
If you prefer all of your items to be visible from
the center of the closet, you can build special corner
unit shelves. These corner units are the same depth
as the side units to ensure a streamline flow around
the entire closet. They can be wall-hung or floor-based
units. If you prefer to hang clothes in the corner, you
can leave out the shelves and add closet rods. The rod
runs along either the back or side wall, so that one end
is attached directly to the wall.
Yet another method is to fit end corners flush
together and place a supporting spacer behind. This
is a common method used in cabinetry. It provides a
nice, finished look but it doesn't allow you to use the
triangular space in the corner. It is appropriate for
built-ins-in this situation the triangular space
behind is not necessary, for the built-in extends to
the ceiling (thus making up for any lost storage
space in the corner).
The final consideration is outside corners. This

gives a finished look to side- or back-wall units that are
not flush against a wall. There are many applications
for this in a walk-in closet. You may want to reserve a
corner of the closet for a vanity or bench, for example.
But instead of the end unit on either side of that area
being unfinished you can have extra shelving.
I Connector TOp Shelf

For this project, the wall units are hung and then a top
shelf joins the side and back units for a finished top
shelf around the entire closet. A standard application
is to use the entire back wall for storage (in other
words, the shelving butts up to each side wall) while
leaving the sides just short of the back wall-by a
minimum of 12". This leaves ample room to access
the items stored on the back wall shelf right into the
corner, so long as the top shelf is tall enough for you to
stand under the joining shelf.
For ease of explanation, this project will assume
that certain standards are in place for the existing
back- and side-wall units: The standard distance in
between the side and back wall units (length) is 12",
minimum. The standard depth for shelving is 14". The
standard thickness of modular shelving material is %".
Tools, Materials & Cutting List
Circular saw with melamine blade

Screwdriver
Drill
Iron (optional)
Measuring tape
Rubber mallet
12 X 24" melamine sheet

Painter's tape
Heat-activated veneer tape (optional)
Connector brackets (or H-channels)
5/8" panhead screws
Knock-down (KDs) fasteners
KD screws and dowels
3/4 X
Key Part
A
'f
Corner Shelf*
Dimension
12 x 14 x%"
Pes . Material
%" -thick melamine
Cut to fit.
Back-wall unit
Side-wall unit
Basics
51
I How to Join Units in Corners

A. MEASURING THE CORNER
1. After your entire closet design is completed and
the wall units are in place (whether wall-hung or
floor-based), measure the distance in between the
back-wall unit and side-wall unit at the top of the
two units, where the top shelf insert will rest.
Then measure the depth of the side wall unit.
2. Make sure all four contact points are square.
If they are not, adjust your wall units until they
are square.
B. MARK CUTLINES
Using a pencil, mark your measurements in a corner
of the melamine sheet. If the space was square, it
should be 12 X 14". Make sure the corner of the
melamine sheet is square to the wall as well. Note:
If the wall is angled, transfer this angle to the piece
you are about to cut. Determine the angle by using an
angle finder. Alternative: Purchase shelf stock of the
appropriate depth and simply cut to length.
C. CUT THE TOP SHELF
1. Using painter's tape, place tape along the
outside edges of your marks. This helps to
prevent chipping when cutting a slight angle.
2. Using a sharp circular saw with a melamine

blade, cut out the top shelf following your
premarked lines .
3. Remove the painter's tape.
4. Finish the outside (front) edge with heat-activated
veneer tape (see page 47 ).
D. ATTACH THE TOP SHELF

1. If KD screws were used on the side-wall vertical ,
remove them and replace with screws and dowels.
Insert a KD screw through one side of a shelf-pin
hole in the vertical and a dowel through the other
side of the vertical. Note: This strengthens the unit
by fastening the two top shelves together through the
vertical, distributing weight between the two sections.
2. Hold the top shelf in place and mark the KD
locations on the bottom of the top shelf. They
should be on center to the pre drilled shelf-pin
holes on the vertical.
3. Drill a hole on the underside edge of the top shelf
at your marks for a KD (see page 47).
4. Press the KDs into the predrilled holes . Place
the shelf down on top of the KD screws. All sides
should be flush with the back- and side-wall units.
Lock down the KDs by tightening the KD onto
the screw with a screwdriver. Note: If the shelf is
not flush, check the screw fitting into the KD to
determine the cause. You may get by with redrilling
a KD hole and filling in the extra space from the
A:
Measure the space in between the

back and side units, using an angle
finder for wall sides that are not square.
52
Transfer your measurements to

a sheet of melamine (or shelf stock
without predrilled holes).
Cut the top shelf, using a circular

saw with a melamine blade. Place
painter's tape along cut lines to prevent
chipping-this is especially helpful for
cutting angles.
old hole with strong glue. Once the glue dries,

fit the shelf in place again. If this repair seems to
jeopardize the strength of the unit, cut a new shelf
piece and better align the predrilled KD holes.
5. Lower the top shelf into place over the screws.
Attach the connector bracket by driving %"
screws into the predrilled locations.
6. Using a screwdriver, lock down the KOs. This
will in turn pull down the top shelf into place
and pull together the top shelf insert and side
wall unit vertical.
7. Once the KOs are tightened, the top piece should
be flush with the top of the side- and back-wall
units. The front of the top shelf will be flush with
the fronts of the unit as well. Align the pieces so
all sides are flush and level.
E. MARK THE CONNECTOR BRACKET

LOCATION
1. With the top shelf in place (with the KOs locked
down), measure away from the side wall 4" and
make a mark on the top shelf (on the side butted
up against the back-wall unit). From that mark,
measure in another 4" away from the side wall
and make another mark on the top shelf.
2. Align the connector bracket screw holes over the
marks and centered over the top shelf and backwall unit (the minimum suggested length for the
bracket is 2").
3. Make a mark where the other connector bracket

screw holes are on the back wall unit. Set the top
shelf on the floor.
4. Remove top shelf.
F. FASTEN THE CONNECTOR BRACKET

1. Predrill holes from the top down at your 4" marks
on the back wall unit for 5/s " screws.
2. Predrill holes from the top down at your 4" marks
on the top shelf for 5/s" screws.
3. Reattach the top shelf by following the directions
in step E, making sure the finished edge faces
forward.
4. Fasten the brackets to the top shelf and
back-wall unit with panhead screws drilled into
predrilled holes.
Tip
If the unit is square and you're using a short length

of melamine to cut the corner piece, you can predrill
the KD holes on one side of the shelf. Align the shelf
against the back-wall shelf and the side-wall vertical;
then simply trace a line on the underside of the shelf
for the cutline.
Remove the existing screw in the

end ve rtical and insert a screw that fits
a dowel. Lower the shelf back down into
place over the screw and lock down KDs.
Mark the screw hole placement for

the connector brackets. Most flat brackets
or H-channels like the one shown will
work. Simply use two panhead screws on
either side to fasten to the back-wall top
shelf and connector shelf.
Fasten the brackets to the back-wall

top shelf and the connecting shelf with
panhead screws.
Basics
53
I Corner Shelf Units

A corner shelf unit can be wall-hung or floor-based
(the same basic procedures and templates are
needed). For a floor-based unit you essentially create
a corner cabinet (with or without doors), making sure
the corner unit and adjoining wall units are plumb.
This unit is most sturdy with a thin plywood backing.
There are a few extra steps for a modular wall-hung
unit (which does not have backing), so we will
explain that in detail now. Install the corner-shelving
unit before installing the units on the adjacent walls,
if possible.
You must first determine how far you want the
corner unit to extend along each wall. Standard
54
corner shelves for modular units range from 24 to

34" long. The standard minimum height is 12" up
from the floor, but we will say 20" for this projectthis provides enough storage space under the shelves
for boots. Finally, you must determine the overall
height of the verticals. This project is 60" tall.
This ensures ample room for 5 corner shelves,
double-hanging rods, or a single rod for longhang space. These are dimensions you'll want to
customize for your closet. Note: For floor-based
units, check for significant differences in floor height
(5/16" or more) and plan to cut verticals accordingly
(or use shims).
Tools
Drill
Screwdriver
Rubber mallet
Circular saw with melamine blade
Jigsaw with melamine blade
Hacksaw
Ruler
Router
Hammer
Iron
Graph paper
Level
Measuring tape
Stud finder
Cardboard ruler
Compass
/'
/'
9- {
Materials
(1) %" x 4 x S' melamine sheet to cut out corner
shelves (see template)
(1) %" x 4 x S' melamine sheet or precut verticals
14" wide X 60" long
Hanging rail
Knock-down (KD) fasteners
2 1/ 2" dl)'\vall screws
Toggle bolts to fit 2 1/2" machine screws
Self-drilling wall anchors with 11/4" screws
Sd finish nails
2" drywall screws
20 mm bit (or bit size recommended by KD
manufacturer)
Heat-activated veneer tape
%" panhead screws
Euro, barrel, or 5/8 " panhead screws
2" wood screws
1 X 3 melamine cleat material
Shelf template
Alternative: Corner unit without a rail
/ ' " 1f4" Plywood
Cutting List
backing
Corner shelves (3, plus adjustable shelves as desired):

Key Part
Dimension
Pcs.
Material
Corner shelves
%"thick, 14 x 24" 3
melamine
Verticals
%x 14 x 60"
melamine
Rods
24" long
Wall rail
48" long
Wall rail
15" long
3
(l
B
Alternative Shelf
Template
or 2, as desired) * metal
* Alternative option to adding adjustable shelves; measure final

space for accurate fit.
Basics
55
I How to Make a Corner Unit for a wall-hung System

A
Draw a level line at 80" up from the floor (the height of the closet unit). Then make an X along the line drawn on this wall at
14 and 24" from the corner.
A. DETERMINE THE RAIL PLACEMENT

1. Graph out your closet on a piece of graph paper.
2. To mark the wall where you want the bottom of
the verticals to hang, measure from the floor up to
20" and make a mark on the wall. Draw a level line
across the wall at this height. Note: For floor-based
units set a level on the floor along various locations
around the perimeter of your closet to determine if
your floor is level. Note any significant differences
in floor height on the graph paper.
3. Measure up 60" from the side-wall line you just
made (at 20" up from the floor) and draw another
level line.
4. Hold a tape measure in the corner near the floor
and measure 24" out from that corner along the
20" height marks on the side wall (at top level
line). Make an X where the 20 and 24" marks
intersect. Repeat for the back wall.
5. Measure from the corner out 14" on the side
wall (for the vertical to be placed in the notched
section) and make another X.
Note: lVIake sure your marks are all level to each other.
If your floor slightly slants down along one wall, your
marks on both walls must remain level to each other. It
is quite common for walls and floors to not be perfectly
straight, but if you have significant structural problems,
stop now and contact your local building inspector
before continuing with your project.
Measure and mark the cutline on the rail. Hold the rail
steady on a table and cut with a hacksaw.
B. MEASURE AND CUT RAIL TO SIZE

1. Use a stud finder to locate and mark studs on wall.
2. Using a hacksaw, cut the back-wall rail to 48" long
(or at least twice the length of your custom corner
shelf length). Cut the side-wall rail to 15" long.
Mark stud locations on the wall using a stud finder. (Inset)

Hold the rail on wall to mark screw locations, and then predrill
holes at studs.
C. INSTALL RAILS ON WALL

1. Align the track right into the corner on the back
wall. Depending on the type of rail brackets/
hangers you are using, align the track so that once
the verticals are hanging on the tracks the vertical
tops will be flush with your height marks.
2. Hold rail in place along back wall. Check for
level. Adjust as necessary until level. Mark screw
locations according to track manufacturer's
specifications.
3. Predrill 1/ 2 " pilot holes at the marked locations that
hit a stud.
4. Hold the rail in place again. Wherever you cannot
hit a stud, use toggle bolts; otherwise, attach the
track with 2 1/2" drywall screws drilled through
pilot holes.
5. Install the side-wall track (notched shelf side)
in the same manner. Stop this track at least 15"
from the corner. Determine exact placement by
measuring out 15" and then locating the nearest
stud. Adjust the placement of this track so that
screws hit studs where possible-especially at the
end point closest to the corner.
6. Slide the track cover over the track for a
finished appearance.
Check the corner for square using the 3-4-5 method. If

the corner is obviously not square, use an angle finder in the
corner out 24" .
D. CHECK CORNER FOR SQUARE

To check for square in the corner, mark a spot 3 ft.
from the corner on the side wall; then , mark a spot
4 ft. from the corner on the back wall. Measure
between the marks. If the distance between the marks
is exactly 5 ft. , the walls are square. It is common to
allow 1/ 2 " (114" on either side of the corner) to be off
square. A slight deviation of 1/ 2 " total or less from 90
will not affect the installation procedure. Note: If the
corner is not square or intentionally curved, use an angle
finder to determine the corner angles.
To notch a section in the corner for a vertical
support, first measure the depth of the vertical panels
(usually 14"). Starting in the corner of your template,
measure this distance out along the side wall. This
is where a supporting corner vertical panel will be
placed. Measure in from this line the same thickness
of the vertical panel (usually 314"). This section needs
to be cut out to fit around the vertical panel. See the
Corner Shelf illustration on page 55.
Basics
57
Create a cutting template for accurate measurements. Use

this guide for each cut piece to follow. (Inset) Use a compass to
create a slight arch from the two depth endpoints. This is the
front of the shelf.
E. CREATE A CUTTING TEMPLATE

1. Transfer your measurements from step D onto a
scrap of melamine that you can use as a template
for cutting the shelves. Do this for both the back
and side walls.
2. Determine the depth of your wall units (this is
most often 14"). Take that amount and transfer it
to your template for the two sides that will adjoin
to the other wall units. They should be 90 to
the back- and side-wall lines (refer to the shelf
template on page 55).
3. For a straight front edge, simply use a ruler to
connect the two endpoints. Tip: Use a compass to
create a slight arch from the two depth endpoints.
This is the front of the shelf.
4. Cut out the template with a circular saw. Save the
curve for last and cut that one with a jigsaw.
5. Place your template in the corner to see how
accurate your measurements are and how well
it fits. If you discover that room corners are not
square or that walls are uneven by more than 1/ 2"
(1/4" on either side of the corner), you will need to
purchase trim pieces-base shoe or cove moldings
or wall shims-to cover gaps between the walls and
your corner unit. Measure these gaps now to make
purchasing the shims later easier.
After tracing around the cutting template, cut out the

shelf. Use a jigsaw for the curve.
F. CUT THE SHELVES

1. Using a circular saw, cut out your corner top piece
using the template as a guide. Cut along all the
marks except the curve, save that for last.
2. Once your top piece is cut out, rough-cut along
the curve with the jigsaw, leaving a 1/8" space in
between the cutline and the jigsaw.
3. Use a router to remove the remaining 1/8" along the
cutline. Note: This ensures a smooth, finished cutline
that is otherwise difficult to achieve with a jigsaw,
making it easier to apply edge banding later. Melamine
edges are often drilled or power planed instead of
sanded because it is difficult to sand a smooth edge
on melamine.
4. Cut out the notched section using the jigsaw.
5. Repeat this process for the middle and bottom
shelf. The bottom shelf for a wall-hung unit will
most likely be at leas t 12" up from the floor (20"
for this project).
6. Finish exposed edges that you will see from
inside the closet with heat-activated veneer tape
(see page 47 ).
Fasten rail brackets to verticals with 314" pan head screws.
G. CUT VERTICALS AND INSTALL BRACKETS

1. Using a circular saw, cut three verticals from
314" -thick melamine shelving stock with predrilled
holes each 60" long and 14" wide.
2. Cut out a notch on the verticals to allow them
to fit over the wall rail and still be flush to the wall.
3. Fasten the rail brackets to the verticals according
to manufacturer instructions, using %" panhead
screws.
4. Hang the two end verticals on their respective
rails, 24 3/8" from the corner. Use a level to make
sure they are all level to each other. Note: The
distance from the corner in which you hang verticals
is dependent on the length of the corner shelves plus
the thickness of the vertical. If your shelf is 30" from
the corner, hang the shelves 30%" from the corner.
Mark six KD locations on the underside of each top shelf.
Predrill holes for KDs following manufacturer
recommendations.
H. MARK KD LOCATIONS ON FIXED SHELVES

Align the top shelf with a vertical. On the underside
of the top shelf, mark the KD hole locations on center
to shelf-pin holes on verticals. Repeat for all six- KD
locations in order to attach the shelf to the side-wall,
back-wall, and corner verticals (see page 55).
I. PREDRILL KD LOCATIONS ON FIXED

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
SHELVES
Predrill the four holes for the KDs on the bottom
edge of the top shelf, using a 20mm bit (or bit size
recommended by KD manufacturer).
Repeat for the middle and bottom shelves.
Insert two KD dowels into the predrilled holes
on one side of an end vertical, leaving them stick
out slightly in order to lower the KD in the shelf
over them. Note: Eventually, this will allow you to
fit two KD screws into the other side of the vertical to
allow for top shelves on both sides of the end vertical.
Repeat this process for the other end vertical.
Insert KD screws only on the inner (notched)
vertical.
Lower the top corner shelf in place and lock down KD screw/
dowels on either corner side.
J. ATTACH FIXED CORNER SHELVES

1. Make sure all KD screws and dowels fit together
through the verticals. Tap the KDs into the
predrilled holes on the underside of the fixed shelf,
using a rubber mallet if needed. Lower
the shelf into place, fitting KDs over screws.
2. Using a screwdriver, lock down the KDs on
the top shelf to the notched vertical panel.
3. Repeat this entire process for the middle and
then bottom shelves.
Basics
59
Fasten L-bracket supports to the

wall with 2" stud screws (or if you
cannot hit a stud, use hollow wall
anchors and screws). Fasten the
L-bracket to the underside of the
vertical with W' panhead screws.
Check for level on the fixed shelves.

Also check the verticals for plumb.
Make adjustments as necessary before
moving on.
K. ADD SUPPORTS TO VERTICALS

Attach L-bracket supports to the wall and the
underside of verticals 20" above the floor, using 2"
wood screws driven into studs and panhead screws
driven up into verticals. Where you cannot hit a
stud, predrill holes for wall anchors and then fasten
the screw through the anchor into the wall. Note:
The verticals rest right on top of the supports. Most
closet installers will purchase L-brackets that are small
enough to be concealed under the vertical (in other
words, no wider than %").
L. LEVEL AND PLUMB THE UNIT

1. Before moving on it is important to make sure the
entire unit is plumb and level. Adjust rail brackets
for plumb, if necessary. For unlevel shelves, unlock
KDs and realign fixed shelves.
2. If this doesn't settle the shelf, attempt to place
some pressure on the shelf to get it to sit level.
3. If this still doesn't work, carefully check each KD
to make sure they are all sitting flush with the
underside of the shelf. Tap any loose KDs into the
predrilled holes with a rubber mallet.
4. Measure from the top down to the center of the
holes that have KD screws or dowels in them.
All vertical holes must be level to each other.
Alternative: Install a closet rod instead

of shelving at desired heights. Fasten
to wall with a 2" stud screw or drywall
screws driven into anchors. Fasten to
closet vertical with Euro or barrel screws.
5. As a last resort, you may need to cut a new shelf

and predrill the KD holes again to make sure they
fit on center with vertical holes.
6. Now that your entire structure is solid and each
piece is flush with other adjoining pieces, you may
want to take the time to add adjustable shelving.
Fasten shelf pins to verticals at predrilled-hole
locations. Simply slide the shelving into place on
top of the pins.
ALTERNATIVE
If you'd prefer to install closet rods, measure down
from the top of the top shelf so that the rod will be
placed just beneath the rail on the back wall (the wall
without the notch). The rod will be on the same side
as the notched vertical. This allows you to have one
side screwed directly into the wall for added stability.
1. Using 2" drywall screws (or wall anchors and screws
specified by the manufacturer) drill the first rod end
directly into the back wall.
2. Install the other rod end into the vertical panel, using
Euro or barrel screws. If these screws are difficult to
find, you can also use 5/8 " panhead screws.
3. Follow the manufacturer's directions to place
the closet rod.
I Alternative: How to Make a Corner Unit without a Wall Rail

Tools & Materials
Level
Stud finder
Measuring tape
Cardboard template
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Jigsaw with
melamine blade
Drill
2 1/2" drywall screws
A.
1.
2.
3.
11/4" panhead screws

1 x 2 cleat material
8d finish nails
3/4" X 13 3/4 X 34"
verticals
%" X 14 X 24" corner
shelves
1/4" X 13 1/2" X 24"
pl)""Iood backing
White paint
PREPARE NAILER
Use a studfinder to locate studs on the wall.
Mark level lines at 17 and 80" up from the floor.
Cut two bottom nailers out of 1 X 4, 3/4"-thick
plywood. Fasten them to the wall with 2 1/2" drywall
screws at studs along line at 17".
B. PREPARE CORNER UNIT

1. Create a template and cut the middle, top, and
bottom fixed shelves for the first box.
2. Install 1 X 3 shelf sleats on center along back- and
side-wall edges of each fixed shelf.
C. INSTALL CORNER UNIT

1. Set your box directly on top of the nailer and have
a helper check for level and plumb; then drill pilot
holes through the cleats and into the wall. Set the
unit down and determine which holes hit studs and
which ones do not-those that will not hit a stud,
drill a hole for a toggle bolt.
2. Align the box again and fasten it to the wall, using
drywall screws at studs and toggle bolts in drywall.
3. Stagger three more 11/4" panhead screws by drilling
through the top of the bottom shelf down into the
supporting nailer.
4. Repeat the above steps, stacking two more box
units on top of the existing one.
B
~
Fasten 1 X 4 nailers to the wall with

2W' drywall screws at studs.
3. Cut three verticals pieces to 10 5/16", using a

circular saw.
4. Set the shelf on top of the vertical. Drive a screw
through the vertical side and into the shelf.
Repeat for the other two verticals.
5. Repeat step 4 for the middle and bottom shelves.
Fasten the bottom shelf flush to the bottom of
the vertical.
6. Measure and cut 1/4" plywood back panel to fit flush
with the wall-side edges of the corner unit. Position
the panels with the grain running vertically. Attach
them along the entire perimeter of the corner unit
with 3/4" panhead screws every 4 or 5".
Secure panels to the perimeter of the

corner unit with 3/4" pan head screws.
Rest the unit on the nailer and then

fasten drywall screws at the top inside
and outside corners.
Basics
61
I Outside Corner Units

A nice finished look for wall units that stop short of
the corner is an outside corner unit. This basic design
can be used for a floor-based or wall-hung unit.
I How to Make an Outside

Corner Unit
A. PREPARE VERTICALS
1. Cut two verticals to sit flush with the top shelves
of the wall-hung unit while they extend to the floor.
2. Drill holes for adjustable shelves along both sides
of each vertical (see page 46). Be sure to measure
down from the top edge %" and make a mark.
This is the (on center) placement for the first
shelf-pin holes, and then align the first pin-hole to
those marks. Alternative: Purchase shelf stock at the
desired depth with predrilled pinholes, and cut to the
desired height.
3. Remove the existing end vertical if it is wall-hung,
and replace it with the new end vertical cut in step
1 (above) that extends to the floor.
4. Place the second "wall" vertical along the wall and
flush up against the end vertical, so the two are
square in the corner, and check that the two new
verticals are level along the top.
B. INSTALL VERTICALS
1. Secure the vertical to the wall with two 1112"
drywall screws along the top of the vertical and
two 1 1/2 " drywall screws along the bottom of the
vertical, centered inside the shelf-pin holes
and approximately 1/4" from ends.
2. Use 11/4" pan head screws through the inside
of the end vertical and into the edge of the
wall vertical.
C. PREPARE AND INSTALL SHELVES

1. Make a template for the shelves on cardboard.
Cut the plywood out to serve as a cutting guide.
2. Cut the top, middle, and bottom shelves using
a circular saw for the straight sides and a jigsaw
for the front curve.
3. Mark the shelves for KD screw holes on center
to pre drilled shelf-pin holes on end and wall
verticals.
62
Measure from the top of the existing wall-hung unit to the

floor. Cut two new verticals (at same depth as existing unit)
to th is height.
4. Drill the four KD holes on the underside of

each shelf (see page 46). Insert KDs into the
holes, tapping them in with a rubber mallet if
necessary.
5. Insert KD screw/dowels on the end vertical and
screw on the wall vertical. Lower the shelf down
into place, fitting KDs over screw/dowels. Lock
down the top shelf using a Phillips screwdriver.
Repeat for the middle and then bottom shelves.
6. Check the verticals for plumb, and adjust
rail brackets as necessary, following the
manufacturer instructions.
7. Fill in extra adjustable shelves as desired, using
shelf pins in the pre drilled holes on the vertical.
Fasten the two verticals together with 11f2" screws. Work
Install adjustable shelves on shelf pins. Fixed shelves (at
from the interior of the existing unit and drill the screw into the
end of the wall ve rtical.
top, middle, and bottom) are fastened to the existing unit with
KD screw/dowels (KD screws on the new corner vertical).

Measuring tape
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Jigsaw with melamine
blade
Key Part
A
Verticals
Shelves
Knock-down (KDs)
fasten ers
Screwdriver
Drill and 20mm bit (or bit
size recommended by
KD manufacturer)
11/2" drywall screws
11/4" panhead screws
3/4"-thick melamine stock
for 2 verticals and 3 or
more shelves
Cardboard
Dimension
14 x 84"
Pes. Material
%"-thick melamine shelving stock
%"-thick melamine shelving stock

with curved front
110
Basics
63
I Installing Wire Shelving

W
ire shelving provides a quick and easy solution

to a cluttered closet. It lacks adjustability but is
nevertheless an inexpensive option to help organize
your closet. Basic wire shelving is attached to walls
with support brackets. For entire wall lengths we
recommend finding a system that also has return
wall brackets (often called "side wall brackets") and
support clips (both drywall shelf clips and stud shelf
clips are available at home centers). Support brackets
placed at stud locations further stabilize the unit.
A slightly advanced style of wire shelving that
is increasing in popularity is track-mounted and is
available in more styles (other than standard white
vinyl-coated wire shelving). This type of wire shelving
consists of a horizontal rail track that supports vertical
rails, or the vertical is directly fastened to the wall.
Shelf brackets then snap into the verticals and shelves
are set on top of the shelf supports. These systems
are viable closet organizers but cannot bear as much
weight as wood or melamine systems. The span should
be kept to 36" or less and have adequate support-by
hitting studs and using toggle bolts every 16".
I How to Install Wire Shelving

A. MEASURE WALLS AND MARK FOR
SHELVING PLACEMENT
1. Measure the length of the back wall and
the side walls.
2. Measure up from the ground to the desired
height for th e top shelf and draw a level line
on each side wall. No te: The average minimum
heig ht above ground is 48" (this allows for
short-hang space and 12" clearance up
from ground ).
3. Mark all stud locations along the back
wall and side walls.
B. CUT WIRE SHELVING
Cut wire shelving to fit between walls using a
hacksaw. For shelving lengths greater than 8 ft.,
cut multiple shelves and connect them with the
manufacturer's connectors (which are often sold
at home centers that carry wire shelving).
64
Measure your closet, and draw a level line 48" up from
ground.
Measure and mark cut length of shelving onto the wire.
Cut wire shelving to length, using a hacksaw.
Tools & Materials

Measuring tape
Level
Hacksaw
Shelving system and

hardware
Drill
C. ATTACH SIDE-WALL SUPPORTS

1. On a side wall, determine placement of the
side-wall support according to manufacturer
instructions. If instructions are not provided by
the manufacturer, fit the support in place on the
wire shelf and then, while holding the shelf in
place along the level lines, mark the screw hole
placements for the side-wall supports on the
side walls.
2. Predrill holes at the marked side-wall support
locations. Hold a support in place and insert a
toggle bolt through the support into the wall.
Repeat with the other side-wall support. No te:
If you can hit a stud, a toggle bolt is not necessary;
instead, use a standard 11/2 " drywall screw.
3. Place the wire shelving into the side-wall supports.
Simply lower the shelving into place until it clicks
into the supports. Have a h elper hold the shelf so
that the two side-wall brackets are not bearing the
load of the shelf. Check for level.
Fit the side-wall bracket in place on the wire shelf and then,
holding the shelf in place along the level line on back wall,
mark the screw hole placements for the support on the
side wall.
D. MARK WALL FOR SUPPORT CLIPS

1. With wire shelving still fit into the sidewall
supports from step C, make a mark approximately
every 6" along the wall; evenly space the marks
between studs, and on center to spaces in wire.
2. Remove the wire shelving. Hold a clip at each
mark, according to manufacturer instructions,
and mark the pin-hole location. Note: There is
an offset from the level line on the wall that
must be taken into account.
Tip
Mark the clip locations on center to spaces in wire and
evenly between each stud mark. (Inset) Mark actual clip pinhole placement according to manufacturer instructions.
For side walls that are at least 4 ft. deep, consider

adding wire shelving along these walls that extend
to the back walls. Then cut your back wall shelving
to stop at the edges of these shelves (instead of
extending all the way to the return walls). Special
corner connectors are available at most home
centers-they join the side wall shelving with the
back wall shelving.
Basics
65
Predrill holes for the wa ll clips. (Inset) Insert the clip pins into predrilled holes, using a hammer to tap them into the wa ll,
if necessary.
E. PLACE THE SUPPORT CLIPS IN WALL

1. Predrill holes at the support clip marks on back
wall for the pin-hole placement.
2. Insert the wall clips by pressing the manufacturer
pin through the clip and into the wall. Use a
hammer to tap stubborn pins into the wall.
3. Lower wire shelving into the side-wall supports
until they snap into place.
4. Gently press the back of the shelving into the
support clips.
F. ATTACH SUPPORT BRACKETS

1. Where possible, align support brackets at stud
Fasten support brackets at studs.
locations. Mark screw holes on wall.

2. Determine where the other brackets will go on
the wall for a uniform appearance . Space brackets
approximately every 16" apart along the back wall.
3. Attach wall brackets at stud marks, drilling screws
through the bracket holes and into the anchors.
For brackets that are not fastened to studs, use
toggle bolts.
4. Fasten the other end of the brackets to the
wire shelving according to the manufacturer
instructions.
Metal Shelf ~
There is a slightly different version of metal standards that is designed to screw directly to the wall. These are essentially
vertical rails that support adjustable shelving brackets. Follow manufacturer recommendations for weight loads.
Mark a level line for the mounting height on the wall .
Where you cannot hit a stud, insert a self-driving wall
anchor (like E-Z Ancors) into the wall (or predrill holes for
toggle bolts).
At stud marks, temporarily fasten a screw in the top
Screw rails to wall, and then add shelving brackets.
of the metal standard. Plumb the rail and then screw

to wall.
Basics
67
I Installing a Basic Closet Organizer

T
his basic, traditional closet organizer was

designed with a bedroom closet in mind, but it
can be adap te d for a pantry or e ntryway close t.
With a custom-built central shelf unit , items such
as shoes, blankets, and sweaters stay organized.
The two upper shelves are perfect for accessory

items or seasonal clothing.
Best of all , you can build this organizer for a
5-foot closet for the cost of a single sheet of plywood,
a clothes pole, and a few feet of 1 x 3 lumber.
Hammer
Tape measure
Framing square
Circular saw
Screwdriver
Jigsaw
Level
1
1
16"
,I
,1
1
1
1
6d and Sd finish nails

3/4" X 4 x S' finish-grade
plywood
11/4"-dia. X 6' clothes
pole
(2) 1 x 3" x S' pine
(1) 1 X 3" x 6' pine
Clothes-pole bracke ts
Finish materials
,I
....
....
.... ....
....
.... ....
Key Part
I
I
"-
"-
Material
Central shelf side
%x ll %x 76"
Plywood
Shelf
%x 11 %x 1]lIs"
Plywood
1
1
Upper shelf
%x 11 W'x S'
Plywood
Back wall support
%x 2W'x S'
Pine
End wall support
%x 21/2 x 20"
Pine
Clothes pole
1%,'dia. x 6'
Closet Pole
'-
.... ,
"-
.... ....
Pes.
I
'1
I
.... .,1 ,
Dimension
....
.... ....
.... ....
'..,r
.... ....
I How to Make a Basic Closet Organizer

A
Assemble the central shelving unit. leavi ng the top open.
Drive 8d finish nails through the supports into the wa ll studs.
A. CUT & INSTALL WALL SUPPORTS

1. Cut the shelf supports for the two upper shelves to
fit the dimensions of the closet.
2. Attach the supports to the wall so the top edges are
84 and 76" above the floor. Anchor the supports
with 8d finish nails driven into wall studs.
B. ASSEMBLE THE CENTRAL SHELVING UNIT
1. Measure and cut the shelf sides and shelves
to size.
2. Assemble the central shelf unit, using 6d finish
nails. Space the shelves according to the height
of the items you will store, but leave the top of
the unit open.
3. Position the central shelf unit in the middle of the
closet and use a pencil to mark notches at the top
of each side to fit around the lower support.
4. Cut away the notched area with a jigsaw, and place
the shelf against the back wall of the closet.
Install the upper shelves with 6d finish nails.
C. INSTALL THE UPPER SHELVES &

CLOTHES POLE
1. Measure and cut the upper shelves to size.
2. Position one upper shelf on the lower shelf
supports and the top of the central shelf unit.
Attach it with 6d finish nails driven into the
wall supports and the central shelf sides.
3. Lay the remaining upper shelf on the top shelf
supports and attach it with 6d finish nails.
4. Attach pole brackets to the shelf unit, II" from
th e rear wall and 3" below the upper shelf. Attach
the opposing brackets to the walls. Make sure the
brackets are attached to a stud in the closet wall, or
use a wall anchor to attach it to the wallboard.
Basics
69
I Installing a Basic Shelving Organizer
----
his simple project will more than double the

storage potential in a small linen or pantry closet.
It is perfect for light loads in closets with a span of
36" or less. The 1 X 3 furring strips are inexpensive
and easy to install, and th e shelving seen from the
outside of the door lends a professional touch . If you
don't have a lot of time, but would like to try your
hand at an installation to maximize your storage,
start here.
70
Tools & Materials

Stud finder
Tape measure
Level
Crewdriver
Jigsaw
Nail gun
6d and 8d finish nails
3J4" -thick shelving stock

(without predrilled
holes)
1 X 3 pine
Wood screws
L-brackets (op tional)
Finish materials
----
Measure from the floor up 15" and mark a level line. Repeat
level lines every 12" up from original line (repeat four times for
an 80"-tall closet).
I How to Make a Basic

Shelving Organizer
Fasten 1 X 3 strips to back side wall, flush into each

corner, and fasten 1 X 3 strips along the side wall (as shown,
ending approximately 6" in from door track). Align the tops of
1 X 3 strips with level lines on wall and fasten to wall with a
nail gun at studs. Note: If you cannot hit a stud, use a selfdriving metal anchor with machine screw every 10".
A. Measure from the floor up 15" and mark a

level line. Repeat level lines every 12" up from
original line (repeat four times for an
80"-tall closet).
B. Cut 1 X 3 strips to fit along the back wall, flush

into each corner. Cut 1 X 3 strips to fit along side
walls, flush against the back wall 1 X 3 strips and
4" short of inside wall (approximately 6" in from
closet door track). Align the tops of 1 X 3 strips
with level lines on wall and fasten to wall, hitting
studs where possible. Note: If you cannot hit a
stud, use a self-driving metal anchor with machine
screw every 10 ".
C. Cut melamine shelving stock (without pre-drilled

holes) to fit along back wall (measure wall and
subtract 4"). Rest shelves on top of 1 X 3 strips.
Cut melamine shelving stock (without predrilled holes)

to fit along back wall (measure wall and subtract 4").
Rest shelves on top of 1 X 3 strips.
Basics
71
Custom
Installations
N
that you have the basic techniques down ,

it's time to build your own custom closet.This
section includes the step-by-step instructions for
custom installations. Of course, your custom design
will vary from our measurements, but the basic
procedures will remain the sam e .
OW
In this section:
Installing a Wall-hung Unit
Installing a Floor-based Unit
Installing a Built-in
New Closets
73
I Installing a Wall-hung Unit

I
na wall-hung system verticals with adjustable

brackets are hung on a rail attached to the wall- the
space along the floor remains open. Typically, the
system is hung 87" from the floor and has a clearance
of 4 to 6" from the finished floor.
There are two common methods to hang a wallhung system. The traditional, premodular method
requires a wall cleat or "nailer" that is mounted into the
studs along the wall. The nailer is usually a 2 X 4 that
spans the entire length of the wall. Cleats are attached
to the underside of fixed top shelves.
The second method, which is used most
frequently by closet profeSSionals, uses a steel rail and
adjustable rail brackets. The rail is mounted to studs
and typically reinforced with toggle bolts (in hollow
wall sections) along the entire wall. An adjustable
bracket is attached to each vertical at the "rout-out"
(an area on the vertical that is routed out to allow
the vertical to fit over the rail and still be flush to the
wall). Adjustable brackets help plumb verticals-even
despite slightly irregular walls. While this method is
desirable to closet profeSSionals for its adjustability,
flexibility, and ease of installation, such hanging rails
and adjustable brackets are predominantly sold at
specialty stores (see page 140).
Either way, nailer method or rail method, wallhung systems are relatively easy to install and offer a
host of advantages. One of the biggest benefits of a
wall-hung system is versatility. Wall-hung systems can
be mounted at any height on the wall. This flexibility
74
gives the option to mount your system higher on the

wall (ceiling height permitting), which is a big plus
if you are tall. The reverse is true as well: if you are
petite, you can mount the system closer to the floor.
Also, having your system hang on the wall gives you
floor access. If you decide to replace your carpet or
flooring, the closet system will not interfere with
removal or installation. Speaking of flooring, another
advantage of a wall-hung system is that your closet will
be level, even if your floor is not. This helps with an
easy and fast installation.
Fixed shelves give stability to any modular system.
In this project we affix shelves with KDs and KD
screws, and then fasten them to the wall with steel
L-brackets. Fixed shelves allow for other shelves in
the unit to be fully adjustable without affecting the
stability of the unit. The closet rail supporting this
wall-hung unit will be hung with drywall screws
and backed up with drywall anchors. Note: Square,
clean cuts are key when working with melamine closet
shelving. This design maximizes your hanging space, and
it also provides extra storage-including a shoe cubby,
basket, and drawers.
Tools & Materials

Measuring tape
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Router with straight
bit
Clamps
20mm drill bit
Support cleats or
L-brackets
Hacksaw
Level (2 or 4')
Stud finder
9" (Torpedo) level
Drill
Self-driving wall
anchors (Buildex
E-ZAncors)
2" drywall screws
%" panhead screws

Shelf pins
Protective caps for
closet rods
Euro or barrel screws
Nails
Melamine shelving
stock
(1) 8' hanging rail
5 hanging brackets
36 KD fasteners with
screws and dowels
(20) 2" drywall screws
For nailer method:
2 x 4 melamine nailer
3 1/2" dr)"vall screws
T-square
Jigsaw with a melamine
blade
Before & After Spees
FLOOR PLAN - WALL HUNG
97 %"
After:
Before:
98" hanging
96" hanging
276" shelving
96" shelving
* Actual wall mounting height varies
depending on size of hanging rail or
nailer used. Always refer to manufacturer
instructions. Fixed shelves highlighted.
28 "
shelves, shoe cubby,

drawers & baskets
shelves &
medium-hang
shelves &
long-hang
:
I
I
I
___ -"~~.!:n_walL ___ J
24"
ELEVATION PLAN - WALL HUNG
%"
28"
@
C
%"
%"
%"
26"
24"
@
%"
26"
84"
top
shelf
B
N
A
D
_ _ _ _ floor
*EACH SQUARE INDICATES 2"
Cutting List
Key Part
Dimension
Pes, Material
Key Part
Dimension
Pes. Material
Verticals
76 Vi!"
%" Melamine
Rod
25 %"
As desired
Verticals
47 %"
%" Melamine
Rod
15 %"
As desired
Shelves
28" wide
%" Melamine
Basket
24"
As desired
Shelves
24" wide
%" Melamine
Drawers
24"
Shelves
26" wide
%" Melamine
Shoe cubby
24"
3/4" Melamine
Shelves
16" wide
%" Melamine
Belt rack
Match unit depth
As desired
Sets of rod cups
W'thick
As desired
Tie rack
Match unit depth
As desired
Rods
27 %"
As desired
As desired
*MOUNTING HEIGHT IS 80"
Custom Tnstallations
75
I How to Make & Install a wall-Hung Unit

A
Measure the return wall to determine the maximum shelf

depth possible for your space.
Hold shelves in place using clamps and jigs. Cut your

shelves to size using a circular saw with a melamine blade.
A. DETERMINE CLOSET DEPTH

1. Measure the return wall to determine the depth
of the closet.
2. Determine the shelving depth. Refer back to the
Design section, if needed (starting on page 29).
to leave space in between each vertical for cut waste

(determined by the saw blade thickness ).
2. Drill shelf-pin holes along the sides of the verticals.
Align the center of the first two holes along the top
of the vertical %" down from the vertical top edge.
This allows your verticals to have a flush top shelf.
If the purchased shelf stock has predrilled holes
along the inside for shelf pins, you can move on
to step 3.
3. Mark the area to be "routed out" (a section of the
vertical that is essentially cut out with a drill) for
the hanging rail 4" down from the top, %" deep.
If you're using a 2 X 4 nailer, the routed area must
be 3 1/2" tall and 1 1/ 2" deep. Note: Routing out the
space is easier than cutting it; although, you can use
a jigsaw with a melamine blade to get the
job done.
4. Clamp the vertical to a work table and rout out
the verticals for hanging brackets along your
marked pencil lines.
B. CUT SHELVES
Measure and mark 3/4"-thick melamine to size
according to the plans. Note: 8-ft. shelf stock at 12, 14,
or 16" depths (depending on your preferred depth
for storage you determined in step A ) will work for
all cut pieces in this project.
C. CUT & PREPARE VERTICALS
1. On precut shelving stock (at the desired depth),
cut all verticals to length. Alternative: If you intend
to purchase melamine sheets to cut out your own
verticals: measure and mark a sheet of %" melamine
to the desired depth and length according to plans,
using a square for accurate measurements. Remember
76
Rout out the verticals for hanging brackets according to the
Cut the steel wall rail to size, using a hacksaw.
size and location of the hanging rail.
D. CUT RAIL
1. Measure wall-to-wall along the back wall to
determine the length of rail you need.
2. Using a rail that you find at a specialty store, cut
to size to span the length of the back wall, using a
hacksaw.
E. MARK HANGING RAIL LOCATION
1. Draw a level line across the length of the wall at
80" off the floor. This height varies according to
2. Locate and mark stud locations on wall, using
a stud finder.
3. Holding the bottom of rail on wall at marked line,
make marks through rail holes for wall anchor (or
toggle bolt) locations in between each stud mark.
Also mark rail holes at studs. Set the rail on
the floor.
4. Predrill holes in the wall for wall anchors (or drive
in toggle bolts) at marks in between studs.
Hold the rail in place and make pencil marks through the
mounting holes on the rail. (Inset) At marks that do not hit

studs, predrill holes and then drive in E-Z Ancors.
F. FASTEN RAIL TO WALL

1. Hold the rail in place at center, press wall anchor
into predrilled holes and lock into place.
2. Drive 2" dIY'all screws through rail and into
wall at marked stud locations.
3. Snap on plastic rail cover according to manufacturer
instructions.
Drill 2" stud screws through rail and into wall at marked
locations.
77
Secure rail brackets to verticals on

center at your pre-drilled locations with
Euro or barrel screws (Inset). Hang all
verticals on rail at desired locations
along the entire wall.
Mark locations to predrill holes for

KDs on top shelf on center to predrilled
holes on verticals.
G. ATTACH BRACKETS TO VERTICALS

1. Predrill l/S " holes on center of routout section on
verticals for the rail brackets. Note: If your shelves
have predrilled shelf-pin holes, some manufacturer
brackets fasten directly into the shelf-pin holes
with Euro screws or barrel screws. Be sure to check
2. Attach adjustable rail brackets to the verticals
according to manufacturer instructions, using
%" panhead screws.
3. Hang all verticals on hanging rail according to
plans. The hook of the bracket should hang
over the rail (and plastic rail cover).
H. PREPARE FIXED SHELVES
1. Align the fixed shelves tops flush with
vertical tops.
2. Mark the center of shelf-pin holes onto
underside of fixed shelves.
3. Drill for KDs at marks on underside of fixed
shelves , using the bit size recommended by the
manufacturer. Set back from shelf edges based
on KD size and manufacturer instructions. See
recommendations in Resources (page 140).
4. Press KDs into the drilled holes on underside
of shelf.
78
using a Phillips screwdriver, "Iock

down" your fixed shelves.
I. ATTACH FIXED SHELVES

1. Fasten KD screws and dowels (see photo) through
verticals according to where fixed shelves will sit
(refer to the plans for this specific project). The
screws and dowels should fit directly into predrilled
shelf-pin holes .
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, "lock down" your fixed
shelves (a ttach all fixed shelves with KDs fitting
over KD screws on verticals) in the first section.
KDs only require 20 lbs. of force and a clockwise
turn of 180. Continue to do this until all sections
are complete. Note: If a single vertical supports a
fixed shelf on either side of it, use a screw and dowel
(instead of two screws ), so they can lock together.
J. ADJUST FOR PLUMB AND LEVEL
1. Level all horizontal shelves using a 9" (Torpedo)
level. Adjust as necessary.
2. Starting at the far left, plumb each vertical using a
level. Use screw adjustments on mounting brackets
to bring vertical as close to the wall as possible; and
then adjust in and out, up and down as necessary
for a level unit and even spacing between sections.
Continue to adjust the verticals until everything is
plumb. As you adjust for plumb, be sure to doublecheck the shelves for level.
Adjust the verticals for plumb
Align L-brackets with back of wall
Align basket tracks over predrilled
by simply adjusting the hanging rail

according to manufacturer instructions.
Adjustments can slightly lift verticals
or push them away from the wall. With
this adjustability you can move along
the entire wall until your closet unit is
perfectly plumb, despite irregular walls.
and fixed shelves. Attach to the shelf

with %" pan head screws and attach to
the wall at stud locations with 2" stud
screws. Note: If your shelves have wood
cleats already attached to them, simply
fasten them to the wall with 3" screws.
holes. Fasten the track at predrilled

holes with Euro or barrel screws. Slide
the basket onto the track according to
K. SECURE UNIT IN PLACE

1. Once the entire unit is level and plumb, align
steel L-brackets flush with wall and underside of
fixed shelves (see plans on page 75 for suggested
fixed locations ).
2. Screw the L-bracket into the wall at stud
locations with 2" screws-or use screws driven
into hollow wall anchors where there are no
studs. Screw the L-bracket to the shelf with %"
panhead screws.
Alternative: If your fixed shelves have wood cleats
attached to them, simply screw them into the wall
with 3" drywall screws.
L. ADD FINISHING TOUCHES

For specifics on adding accessories, refer to the
Accessories section starting on page 103.
1. Insert shelf pins on verticals where desired.
Place adjustable shelves onto pins.
2. Mark the locations for closet rods on verticals
per plans. Attach end caps at marked locations.
Place the rods into cups. If necessary, use a
hacksaw or chop saw to cut metal rods to fit.
Place protective caps over the cut ends
before placing back into the rod cups on
the verticals.
3. Install pre-built drawers by screwing drawer tracks

onto the verticals using Euro or barrel screws
aligned with shelf pins. Slide drawers into place,
adjust as necessary for level and for uniform gaps in
between drawers.
4. Install pre-assembled baskets. Screw basket
tracks onto verticals according to manufacturer
instructions. Slide the basket onto the track and
level or adjust as necessary.
5. Slide your prebuilt shoe cubby onto the shelf
directly above drawers. Or fasten vertical partitions
in place according to design by countersinking
nails through the top shelf into the top of prepared
verticals. Insert shelf pins where desired and slide
adjustable shelves into place.
6. Add your tie and belt racks (refer to pages 108
and 109), by attaching them to the sides of
verticals with Euro or barrel screws aligned
with shelf-pin holes.
Tip
If KDs do not press easily into the predrilled holes, tap

them into place using a rubber mallet.
79
I Alternative: How to Use a Wood Nailer System

A
.--- -
Drill 3" wood screws through the rail at studs and run
screws to fit into the drywall anchors you chose at nonstud locations.
cut a notch in the ve rtical to fit around the 2 X 4 nai ler,

allowing the vertica l to sit flush to the wall.
A helper may come in handy with this procedure.

This is another reason why closet professionals prefer
a rail system. With nailers each section must be fully
assembled before moving to the next. And it's difficult
to hold the verticals in place while also locking
down KOs.
6. Holding the nailer in place, countersink 3" drywall

screws through the cleat and into the predrilled
holes in studs. In between each stud, drive screws
into the self-drilling wall anchors.
A. INSTALL NAILER
1. Cut 2 X 4 melamine nailer to width of wall-towall measurement, using a circular saw with a
melamine blade . If your wall-to-wall measurement
is greater than 5 ft., cut multiple nailers that butt
up next to one another on the wall.
2. Locate and mark stud locations on wall.
3. Draw a level line 77" up from the floor for the
top of the nailer.
4. Hold the top of the nailer flush with the
marked line.
5. Predrill holes for 3 1/2" drywall screws at your stud
marks on the wall. In between each stud mark,
drive in a self-driving wall anchor.
80
BU ILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLOSET
B. CUT NOTCH IN VERTICALS

Verticals must still be fitted with pin-style holes
for KOs and adjustable shelf pins. See page 46
for instructions on drilling pin holes, or purchase
shelf stock with predrilled holes and cut to the
appropriate height. Remember to measure 3/8 "
on center to a pin hole from top edge to ensure
correct placement of KOs for top fixed shelf.
1. Mark a square notch on the wall-side edge of
the vertical. Draw a lin e 3 1/ 2" down from the
top. Draw another line 3 1/ 2" down from the first
line. Connect the two lines using a T-square at
1 1/ 2" deep (you may need to measure the exact
depth of the 2 X 4 so the vertical will sit flush to
the wall).
Align verticals and fasten fixed shelves in the first section. Check for plumb and level before screwing the end vertical to the wall.
Repeat with each section as you move along the wall.
2. Cut out the notch using a jigsaw with a melamine
blade. Note: This time the cuts on the vertical are

square (opposed to wall-hung verticals on a rail
system that are routed out with a drill ) because they
will be resting directly on the nailer. By this point
fixed shelves should be fastened to cleats-see page
49. There must be a fixed shelf at the top, middle,
and bottom of each section. You can add more fixed
shelves, as needed, for structural support at locations
intended to carry more weight.
2.
3.
4.
5.
C. INSTALL THE CLOSET

1. Holding a corner vertical in place so that the
notch fits snugly around the nailer, temporarily
fasten the vertical to the wall with a 3 1/2" screw
centered toward the top of the vertical. Note:
Verticals do not support systems that use nailers.
The nailers are simply guides to help with holding
verticals in place as fixed shelves are attached, and
to maintain a level unit. The fixed shelves with
cleats screwed to the wall are what ultimately
6.
7.
hold these systems in place. The end verticals are

also screwed to the wall along the top, middle,
and bottom.
Lower the top fixed shelf into place and lock down
KDs to vertical on wall. The shelf cleat should sit
flush with the nailer.
Hold a second vertical over the nailer and lock
down KDs to that vertical.
Plumb and level the unit, and then permanently
fasten the end vertical to the wall.
Check level of top and shelf, and adjust as
necessary. Once level, screw the shelf cleat
into the wall with either two or three 3" screws
evenly spaced.
Finish attaching the rest of the fixed shelves in
between these two verticals.
Repeat the above procedure for the next section
along the wall. Once all sections have verticals
in place and fixed shelf cleats fastened to the
wall, add adjustable shelves.
81
I Installing a Floor-based Unit

A
floor-based system typically extends 90" up from

the finished floor. The most obvious advantage
is support-and the strong, stable support is the
floor. Even though wall-hung systems (if installed
correctly) are strong, floor-based systems are worry-free.
Because, you don't have to worry about them falling,
you can build deeper components, such as drawer
sections, and add more weight. Typical closet systems,
both wall-hung and floor-based, are 12 to 14" deep.
However, if you have a big enough closet, it is nice to
build drawers and shelving deeper to really maximize
your storage.
Some people are also attracted to floor-based units
because of the option to add features to the unit to
mimic a built-in-most notably base molding, crown
molding, and wall trim.
If you would like toe-kick molding on the bottom
of your unit, you have two options: 1.) Make and
install a thin backer board and slide it into place in
between verticals; often installers will fasten this to
verticals on the inside with L-brackets, and then install
a lower shelf directly on top to conceal the insert.
2.) Install a kickbase at the start of the project. Simply
make the kickbase 3 3/4" shorter than the depths of the
verticals to allow for a lip at the bottom of the unit.
Align verticals to rest half on the kickbase, concealing
82
the kickbase from the side as well as the front. Install

the unit as if this platform is the floor-taking all
measurements up from the kickbase. Be sure the
kickbase is level, despite an irregular or sloping floor.
For all cut pieces in this project, 8-ft. shelf stock at
12, 14, 16, or 24" depth (depending on your preferred
depth for storage) will work.
Tools & Materials

Measuring tape
4" level
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Drill
20 mm drill bit
Rubber mallet
L-brackets
Stud finder
Level
3" drywall screws
2" drywall screws
3/4"-thick melamine
shelving stock with
pre drilled holes
3/4"-thick melamine
board (or shelving
stock without
pre drilled holes)
Wood shims
Melamine glue
Shims
Locking KD with
screws and screw/
dowels
ELEVATION PLAN - Floor-based Unit
Kick-base
f - l - - - - - - - - - - - 9 7 %" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1
y,"
%"
3 "
28"
24"
26"
'H
"Kj L~
\T G
"J
" I
B)H
/ 1
/ F
_ \ H
t
/G
\,; A)
+ ,.
\K~
If
)J
A
~F
6"
16"
90"
F-
"
-
Alternative Kick-base
1\
I~
/ J
1./
FLOO
FLOOR PLAN - Floor-based Unit
+-1- - - - - - - - - - 97 3(," ----------11
@!
@
shelves, shoe cubby,
drawers & baskets
shelves &
medium hang
It
shelves &
long hang
14"
J1
___ !~\!!!:.n_~~~ __
I-
I
I
----1
24"
Cutting List
Key
Part
Dimension
Pes.
Material
Key
Part
Dimension
Pes.
Material
Kickbase
4 x 29 lfs"
%"thick melamine
Rod cups
W'thick
As desired
Kickbase
4 x 24%"
%"thick melamine
Rods
27 %"
As desired
Kickbase
4 x 26%"
%"thick melamine
Rod
25 %"
As desired
Kickbase
4 x 17 lfs"
%"thick melamine
Rod
15 %"
As desired
Kickbase
4 x (vertical depth 5
minus 3%")
%"thick melamine
Basket
24"
As desired
Basket
26"
As desired
Verticals
85 3fs"
3/4"thick
melamine
Drawers
24"
Shelves
28" wide
%"thick melamine
Shoe cubby
24"
Shelves
24" wide
%"thick melamine
Belt rack with Euro screws
As desired
Shelves
26" wide
%"thick melamine
As desired
Shelves
16" wide
%"thick melamine
Tie/ scarf rack with

Euro screws
As desired
As desired
83
I How to Make and Install a Floor-based Unit

OPTION: MAKE TOE-KICK BASE
1. Cut 3/4"-thick melamine shelf stock (without
shelf-pin holes) to 4" wide by the desired
length for front and back kickbase plates
(see cut list on page 83).
2. Then cut side kickbase plates at 4"-wide by
(vertical depth minus 3 3/4").
3. Align the front and back plates for the first
section flush with the inside edges of the side
plates. Align the inner side on center to the
edges of the front and back plates.
4. Drive a screw through the back plate and into
the sides; then use L-brackets to secure the
front plate to the sides.
5. Move to the next section, adding another side
plate. Continue this until the entire kickbase
is complete.
6. Align kickbase in between verticals, so that half
the vertical is resting on kickbase and other half
overhangs kickbase.
7. Level the kickbase by inserting shims under
verticals, as needed. Alternative: Extend each
vertical to the floor and use L-brackets to fasten
kickbase plates in between each vertical.
A. MEASURE THE CLOSET
1. Draw a level line 90" above the floor.
2. Layout the verticals onto the wall as shown in
the plans.
3. At each vertical location, measure from the
level line to the floor to determine the total
length of the vertical.
4. Note: If floor slopes from the wall out, you
can cut the end of the verticals at an angle or
shim the side where the floor is lowest. Look for
significant inconsistencies of 1/8" or greater. A
framing square set against the wall and floor will
tell you whether the floor slopes (or the wall is
out of plumb ).
5. Using a stud find er, mark all stud locations
along the installation wall.
B. PREPARE VERTICALS
Cut all verticals to length depending on design. In
this project they are 87 5/8" tall. Note: All verticals
are cut to 3;s " on center of holes. This allows your
verticals to have a flush top shelf (see page 46 ).
84
A
x
Measure up 90" from the floor every foot or so and make
an X. Then draw a level line across the walls. Compare these

marks to determine if your floor is level along the wall.
8-1
Mark your cutline on the verticals, using a carpenter's
square to ensure a straight cutline at right angles to the edges.

Be sure to leave room for waste from the saw fence.
<
Measure verticals to be 87
long. From on center of shelfpeg holes add 3/8 " and make a mark. The offset of 3/8 " allows
for the Knock-down screws to fit into the predrilled holes while
in KDs, allowing the top shelf to sit flush with the top
of verticals.
5/8"
C. INSTALL CLOSET
1. Start with the farthest left vertical. Predrill an
angled pilot hole drilled through the vertical.
2. Place the vertical in position against wall and use a
level to make sure it is perfectly plumb. Screw the
vertical to the wall with a 2" dl)'\vall screw located
at center to hold piece temporarily in place.
3. Screw in locking KD dowels on the verticals at
fixed shelf locations. Note: The KD dowels are
placed on center of predrilled shelf-pin holes. This
allows an accurate fit of the KD over the dowel and
flush front edges. The bottom fixed shelf attaches in
the second hole from the bottom (approximately 2"
from floor ).
4. Using a Phillips screwdriver, attach all fixed
shelves with KDs fitting over KD dowels on
verticals. Continue to do this until all sections
are complete.
D. PREPARE FIXED SHELVES
1. Follow the plans to cut materials.
2. Measure and mark your shelf sizes onto the
shelf stock according to the plan sizes. Check
for square.
3. Cut your shelves to size using a circular saw
4. On your fixed shelves, mark for KD holes
"on center" to shelf-pin holes on verticals.
5. Drill for KDs on the fixed shelves, using 20mm
drill bit or the bit size recommended by the
manufacturer.
6. Tap KDs into place on fixed shelves using a
rubber mallet.
OPTION: ADD MOUNTING CLEATS
TO FIXED SHELVES
Fixed shelves are often fixed to the wall with steel
brackets at the end of the installation. If you prefer
to have shelf cleats under the fixed shelves, you
would prepare them now. Shelf cleats add a different
aesthetic feel and look to the closet, and this is the
main reason for making them instead of using steel Lbrackets. Here's how to prepare the fixed shelves with
cleats:
1. Using 3/4" melamine, rip cut cleats to 3 1/2" wide.
2. Cut to width of shelves based on cut list.
3. Glue and pin-nail cleat to underside of the fixed
shelf, flush with the back (wall side).
Align the first vertical against the wall and temporarily
screw it to the wall.
Tap KDs in to place on fixed shelves using a rubber mallet.
r.
option: Fasten the cleat to the underside of the fixed shelf
using glue and pin-nails.
85
E-1
Level the entire unit and all of the shelves.
Add Shims under vertica ls, where necessary, to keep
shelves level.
E-2
G
((
Add accessories and adjustable shelves to build out the unit.
Fasten L-brackets to fixed shelves.
G. FINISHING TOUCHES
Plumb the entire unit, checking all verticals with a leve l.
E. PLUMB AND LEVEL UNIT

1. Once all fixed shelves are in place, level the unit.
Be sure to level across the tops of the verticals
and make sure the verticals are all square to
outside walls .
2. Check the verticals for plumb. Move from section
to section, plumbing and leveling the unit.
F. ADD SHIMS
For verticals that are too low due to a dip in the floor,
use wood shims to raise them up to level. Once the
appropriate height is achieved, slide a shim under the
verticals. Tap the shim with a hammer, if needed.
1. Check each fixed shelf for level, and then secure

the shelf to the wall with steel L-brackets. Align
the L-bracket so it is pressed up tight against the
bottom of the shelf, and then fasten it to the wall
with 2" drywall screws . Note: If you prepared fixed
shelves with cleats, run 3" drywall screws through the
mounting cleats into wall studs.
2. Add adjustable shelves u sing shelf pins.
3. Install closet rods (see page 104) at locations
per plans.
4. Install pre-built drawers (see page 110) by first
screwing drawer tracks onto the verticals and then
the edges of the drawer boxes.
5. Slide the drawers onto tracks. Adjust as necessary.
6. Screw basket tracks onto verticals and attach
to the basket (refer to page 129). Slide basket
into place.
7. Slide prebuilt shoe c ubby (see page 106) onto shelf
above drawers.
8. Add your tie and belt racks by holding the rack in
place, insert Euro screws through the rack holes
and directly into the shelf-pin holes on the vertical.
using a pneumatic nailer, fasten crown molding in place

along top front edges of closet unit.
H. ADD CROWN MOLDING

1. Make light pencil marks at joist locations along
edge of closet top shelf. For each piece that starts
or ends in a corner, add 12 to 24" to compensate
for waste. Avoid pieces shorter than 36", because
short pieces are more difficult to cut.
2. Hold a section of molding against the closet
and ceiling in the finished position. Make light
pencil marks on the closet every 12" along
the bottom edge of the molding. Remove the
molding, and tack a finish nail at each mark.
The nails will hold the molding in place while
the adhesive dries.
3. To make miter cuts for the first corner, position
the molding faceup in a miter box. Set the ceiling
side of the molding against the horizontal table
of the miter box, and set the wall side against the
vertical back fence. Make the cut at 45.
4. Check the uncut ends of each molding piece
before installing. Make sure mating pieces butt
together squarely in a tight joint. Cut all square
ends at 90, using a miter saw or hand miter box.
5. Run a bead of polymer adhesive along both edges.
Attach decorative molding by driving screws through the

underside of the shelf up into the molding.
6. Set the molding in place with the mitered end

tight to the corner and the bottom edge resting
on the nails. Attach the molding with a few nails
(6d or Sd) driven through the flats and into the
ceiling and wall, using a pneumatic nailer.
7. Cut and glue the next pieces of molding. Apply a
bead of adhesive to each end where the installed
molding will meet the new piece. Install each
new piece, and secure the ends with screws,
making sure the ends are joined properly.
S. Countersink all nails using a nail set. Use wood
putty to fill visible nail holes and cover gaps at
the joints.
I. ADD DECORATIVE MOLDING

1. Measure and cut a piece of decorative molding to
fit in between two verticals in front of shoe shelves.
Be sure to cut for a tight fit.
2. Attach molding to shelf by driving I" screws from
the underside of the shelf up into the bottom of
the molding. Note: Screw size is determined by shelf
and molding base thickness.
87
I Installing a Built-In Organizer
built-in closet system ~ffers a finished, elegant

appearance. You can gIve modular melamine
closets the appearance of a built-in by adding trim,
but for a true built-in many people prefer the look of
natural wood.
This project uses finish-grade oak plywood and
a solid oak face frame to give the unit the look of
expensive, solid oak shelving-at a fraction of the cost.
The plywood panels are supported and strengthened
by an internal framework of 2 X 4 stud lumber.
When installing floor-to-ceiling shelves in a
corner, as shown here, add 1/2" plywood spacers to add
thickness to the studs that adjoin the wall. Spacers
ensure that face frame stiles of equal width can be
installed at both shelf ends (see diagram, opposite
page). Before proceeding, first determine how you will
design the built-in to fit into the corners (for walk-ins)
so you can plan each built-in section along each wall
accordingly (see page 50).
Tools & Materials

Shims
Wood screws
(1314,2,3")
1 1/2" finish nails
Metal shelf standards
and clips
Finishing materials
1/2" plywood scraps
Molding (as desired)
Tape measure
Level
Framing square
Plumb bob
Drill
Hammer
Circular saw
Router
314" straight bit
Flat prybar
Stud finder
Marking gauge
Ceiling line
--.;
-- -
;'
Wall
ine
Construction Detail,
Front View
Shelf Detail
Exploded View of
Floor-to-ceiling Shelves
Note: Plan instructions are for one wa ll section. The dimensions of an entire built-in are dependent on your closet space. The same
basic construction process as this example may be followed to achieve a complete walk-in built-in.
Key
Part
Dimension
Key
Part
Dimension
(6) Top and sole plate
11/2 x 31/2 x 59W' pine
(6) Adjustable shelf
% x 26% x 13" oak plywood
(6) Support stud
11;2 x 31;2 x 91 W' pine
(3) Stile
% x 31/2 x Cut to fit oak
(1)
(4) Top, middle rail
% x 21/2 x 16 lfs" oak
(4) Top, bottom panel
1/2 x 27% x 13" oak plywood
(6) Shelf edging
% x 11/2 x 26lfa" oak
(8) Upper, lower riser
1/2 x 441/8 x 13" oak plywood
(16) Spacer
1/2 x 31;2 x 6" oak
(2) Permanent shelf
% x 27 1/4 x 13" oak plywood
(2) Bottom rail
% x 31/2 x 16lfa" oak
End panel
\1;1 x 95% x
13" oak plywood
Custom Installations
89
Locate studs on installation wa ll s,
Use a plumb bob suspended from the
Attach the plywood top and bottom
using a stud finder.
outside corners of the top plates to align

the sole plates. (Inset) Attach each plate
to the ceiling with 3" screws driven into
the joists or blocking.
panels to the top and sole plates using

1W' finish nails.
A. PREPARE THE WORK AREA
form two doubled sole plates. Use a plumb bob

suspended from the outside corners of the top
plates to align the sole plates, then shim to level,
if needed; anchor the plates by driving 3" screws
toenailed into the floor.
l.
Detach and roll back carpeting and pad before

beginning construction, then trim to fit around the
built-in after work is completed. Note: Install the
built-in on top of glued-down carpeting.
2. Remove baseboards and other moldings to make
room for a built-in that will fit flush against the
wall. Use a flat prybar with a wood block to
prevent damage to the wall, and pry carefully to
avoid splintering the molding. After the built-in is
installed, cut the molding to size, and reattach it.
3. If electrical receptacles or other fixtures are in the
way of your planned built-in, have them relocated
by an electrician.
4. Use a stud finder to mark all of the studs on the
installation wall s.
C. INSTALL SUPPORT STUDS & END PANELS

l.
2.
3.
B. INSTALL SUPPORT PLATES

l.
2.
3.
Mark the location for two parallel 2 X 4 top plates

on the ceiling, using a framing square as a guide .
The front edge of the outer top plate should be
13" from back wall, and the other top plate should
be flush against the wall. Mark location of ceiling
joists; if necessary, install blocking between joists
to provide a surface for anchoring the top plates.
Measure and cut 2 X 4 top plates. Position each
plate, check to make sure it is level, and shim if
necessary. Attach plates to ceiling with 3" screws
driven into the joists or blocking.
Cut 2 X 4 sole plates and screw them together to
90 BU ILD YOUR OWN CU STOM CLOSET
4.
5.
Install 2 X 4 support studs between the ends

of the top plates and sole plates. Attach support
studs with 3" screws toenailed into the top plates
and sole plates.
Install center support studs midway between the
end support studs. Toenail to the bottom plate
first, using 3" screws. Use a level to make sure
that the stud is plumb, then attach the studs
to the top plate with 3" screws.
Where the shelves fit into a corner, use 2" screws
to attach 1/ 2" plywood spacers on the inside faces
of the support studs, spaced every 4". Make sure
the spacers do not extend past the front face of
the studs.
Where the end of the project is exposed, measure
and cut a 1/ 2 " plywood end panel to floor-toceiling height. Attach the panel to the support
studs so the front edges are flush, using 13/4 "
screws driven through the support studs and into
the end panel.
Measure and cut 1/ 2" plywood top and bottom
panels to fit between the support studs. Attach to
the top and sole plates using 1 1/ 2" finish nails.
Measure and cut the 1 x 3 top rai ls to fit between the stiles.
Then drill pi lot holes and attach the rails to the top plate and
top panels.
Install the lower risers on each side of the 2 x 4 support
studs with 1W' finish nails.
D. INSTALL RISERS AND

PERMANENT SHELVES
1. Measure and cut lower risers from 1/2 " plywood.
2. Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside face
of each riser, using a marking gauge. Grooves
should be at least 1" from the edges.
3. Cut dadoes to depth and thickness of metal
standards, using a router. Test-fit standards to
make sure they fit, then remove them.
4. Install lower risers on each side of the 2 x 4
support studs so the front edges are flush with
the edges of the studs. Attach risers with 1 1/ 2"
finish nails driven through the risers and into the
support studs. For riser that adjoins wall, drive
nails at spacer locations.
5. Measure and cut permanent shelves from %"
plywood to fit between the support studs, just
above the lower risers. Set shelves on risers and
attach them with 1 1;2 " finish nails driven down
into the risers.
6. Measure and cut upper risers to fit between the
permanent shelves and the top panels. Cut dadoes
for metal shelf standards, then attach the risers to
the support studs with 1 1/2" finish nails.
E. INSTALL FACING
1. Measure and cut 1 x 4 stiles to reach from floor
to ceiling along the front edges of the exposed
support studs. Drill pilot holes and attach the
stiles to the support studs so they are flush with
the risers, using glue and 11/2" finish nails driven at
8" intervals into the studs and risers.
Insert shelf clips into the metal shelf standards and install
the adjustable shelves.
2.
3.
4.
F.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Measure and cut 1 x 3 top rails to fit between

the stiles. Drill pilot holes and attach the rails to
the top plate and top panels, using glue and 1 1;2 "
finish nails.
Measure and cut 1 x 4 bottom rails to fit
between the stiles. Drill pilot holes, and attach
the rails to the sole plates and bottom panels,
using glue and 11/2" finish nails. The top edge of
the rails should be flush with the top surface of
the plywood panels.
Fill nail holes, then sand and finish the wood
surfaces as desired.
INSTALL SHELVING
Measure, cut, and install metal shelf standards
into the dadoes , using nails or screws provided
Measure and cut adjustable shelves l/S " shorter
than the distance between metal standards. Cut
shelf edging, and attach with glue and 11/2" finish
nails. Sand and finish the shelves as desired.
Insert shelf clips into metal shelf standards and
install the adjustable shelves at desired heights.
Cover gaps between the project and walls and
floor with molding that has been finished to
match the shelf unit.
Cu stom Installations
91
I New Closets: Building a Walk-in Closet
uilding a partition wall is a great way to downsize

a room and get extra closet space at the same
time. This is a perfect solution for guest rooms that
are too large or largely empty throughout the year.
Why sacrifice your closet storage for an empty room?
Consider making that extra room cozier by taking
half of the space for a reach-in or walk-in closet, thus
getting double your use of the space.
Converting a room into a multi-functional room
and closet opens other creative possibilities. Consider
dedicating the room as a dressing or sitting area
complete with a vanity dresser, large mirrors, and
lounge furniture. The possibilities are endless, so let
yourself dream up the best use for the space.
A partition wall divides an open space into two
spaces but does not carry significant structural weight.
If you're adding a wall to a current living space, you'll
want to hang plastic around your project area to
contain dust and debris.
92
Tools & Materials

Drill
Stud finder
Circular saw
Chalk line
Tape measure
Combination square
Framing square
Ladder
Plumb bob
Wallboard T-square
Wallboard saw
4 or 6" and 10"
Wallboard knives
Utility knife
ISO-grit sandpaper or
sanding sponge
2 X 4 framing lumber
Sd casing nails
10d and 16d common
nails
1
1 /4" wallboard screws
Premixed wallboard
compound
Paper wallboard tape
1/2" wallboard
Bucket or pan
Prehung door kit
Hammer
Wallboard lifter
I How to Build a New Closet

A. LAY OUT THE WALL PLATES
1. Mark the location of the new wall on the ceiling
and then snap two chalk lines to outline the
position of the new top plate.
2. Use a stud finder to determine the location and
direction of the joists. Mark the first joist and then
drill into the ceiling between the lines . If your first
joist mark was accurate, then measure to find the
remaining joists.
3. Make the top and sole plates by cutting two
2 X 4s to length . Lay the plates side by side, and
use a combination square to outline the stud
locations at 16" intervals.
4. Mark the position of the door framing members on
the top plate and sole plate, using Xs for kin g studs
and Os for jack studs. Most prehung doors are 32"
wide , but other sizes are available . Be sure to frame
according to the prehung door unit and materials
you plan to use. The rough opening measured
between the insides of jack studs should be about
1" wider than the actual width of the door unit to
allow for adjustments during installation.
Warning ~
Before starting the project, check for wiring and
plumbing in ceiling, walls, and floor in the area of
the new wall.
Sidebar ~
New wall perpendicular to joists: Attach the top

plate and sole plate directly to the ceiling and floor
joists with 16d nails.
A
New wall parallel to joists. but not aligned: Install
2 X 4 blocking between the joists every 2 feet, using
16d nails. The bottom of the blocking should be flush
with the edges of joists. Anchor plates with 16d nails
driven into the blocking.
Mark the location of the new wall with chalk lines and mark
the first joist location . Drill into the ceiling to ensure your marks
hit a joist.
Tip
Walk-in closets vary in size but should have a

minimum depth of 5 feet to allow a door to swing
inward and still leave room for clothing to hang on
the back wall. Return walls should be at least 24"
to allow hanging on side walls.
New wall aligned with parallel joists: Attach top

plate to ceiling joist and sole plate to the floor, using
10d nails.
C ustom Tnstallations
93
After tacking the top plate in place on ceiling. use a
framing square to make sure the top plate is perpendicular

to the adjoining wa lls.
B. INSTALL THE TOP AND SOLE PLATES

1. Position the top plate against the ceiling between
the chalk lines, and use two nails to tack it in place
with the stud marks facing down. Use a framing
square to make sure the plate is perpendicular to
the adjoining walls and then anchor the plate to
the joists or blocking with 16d nails.
2. Determine the position of the sole plate by hanging
a plumb bob from the edge of the top plate near an
adjoining wall so the plumb bob tip nearly touches
the floor. When the plumb bob is motionless, mark
its position on the floor. Repeat at the opposite
end of the top plate. Snap a chalk line between the
marks to show the location of the sole plate.
3. Cut away the sole plate where the door framing
will fit, then position the pieces of the sole plate
on the outline on the floor. On wood floors, anchor
the sole plate pieces with 16d nails driven into the
floor joists.
4. Find the length of the first stud by measuring the
distance between the sole plate and the top plate
with a tape measure at the first stud mark. Cut the
stud to length.
Position and attach stud by toenailing through the sides of
the stud and into the top plate and then the sole plate.
~
King stud
/ J a C k stud height
g
Endnailin "
Header
Endnail the header to the king stud above the mark for the
jack stud.
c.
POSITION WALL STUDS

1. Position the stud between the top plate and sole
plate so the stud markings are covered.
2. Attach the stud by toenailing through the sides of
the stud into the top plate and then the sole plate,
using lOd nails or 3" screws.
3. Measure, cut, and install all remaining full-length
studs, one at a time. Option: Attach studs to the top
and sale plates with metal connectors and 4d nails.
94
D. INSTALL DOOR HEADER

1. Mark the height of the jack stud on each king stud.
The height of a jack stud for a standard
door is 83 1/2", or 1/2" taller than the door unit.
2. Cut the 2 X 4 header to span between the king
studs at the header marking.
3. Endnail the header to the king stud above the
mark for the jack studs.
F
Toenail joint
Cripple stud /
-r~
Endnailing
1-
After you toenail a cripple stud between the king studs,
endnail through the bottom of the header into the cripple stud.
Jack stud
Header
E. INSTALL CRIPPLE STUD FOR DOOR

Install a cripple stud above the header, so it coincides
with the 16" stud spacing of the general stud layout.
Toenail the cripple stud to the top plate, and endnail
through the bottom of the header into the cripple stud.
Endnail through the top of the header down into the
F. INSTALL JACK STUD FOR DOOR
jack studs.
1. Position the jack studs against the insides of the

king studs. Endnail through the top of the header
down into the jack studs.
2. Arrange to have any wiring completed by a licensed
electrician.
G. CUT WALLBOARD
1. Position the wallboard with the short arm of a
T-square flush against the edge.
2. Use a utility knife to score the wallboard face paper
along the arm of the square at the desired length.
3. Bend the scored section with both hands to
break the plaster core of the wallboard. Fold back
unwanted piece and cut through the back paper to
separate pieces.
... <
Tip
For circular cuts-for working around light fixtures or

fans-use an adjustable circle cutter. Mark a center
point and use the circle cutter to score both sides
of the wallboard. Tap the cut out with a hammer to
release it from the surrounding panel.
'" :.
-. . .. -'-
,-
TO cut wallboard. first cut the face paper with a utility knife,
then snap it back and (inset) finish cut.
95
Lift panels tight against the ceiling with a wallboard lifter,

then screw them into position once they are plumb.
Apply a thin layer of wallboard compound over the joint

with a 4 or 6" wallboard knife.
TO finish inside corners, position the end of a folded tape

strip at the top of the joint and press the tape into the wet
compound with a wallboard knife.
Tip
Use premixed wallboard compound for most tapping

and finishing jobs to eliminate mixing. Use paper
wallboard tape when using premixed wallboard
compound.
H. INSTALL WALLBOARD
1. Install wallboard, using 1/2" wallboard for most
applications. Plan the wallboard placement so
joints do not fall at the corners of doors. Wallboard
joints at corners often crack and cause bulges that
interfere with miter joints in door trim.
2. Unless the panels are long enough to span the
wall, install them vertically to avoid butt joints that
are difficult to finish. Plumb the first panel with a
level, making sure it breaks on the center of a stud.
Lift panels tight against ceiling with a wallboard
lifter, and then screw them into position.
3. Anchor wallboard panels by driving 11/4"
wallboard screws, spaced every 10", into the
framing members. Screw heads should be sunk just
below the wallboard surface, but should not tear
the paper.
4. Add Ix or 2x backing in situations where
additional support is necessary to support
wallboard edges.
I. TAPE & FINISH WALLBOARD JOINTS

1. Apply a thin layer of wallboard compound over
the joint with a 4 or 6" wallboard knife. To load
the knife, dip it into a pan filled with wallboard
compound.
2. Press the wallboard tape into the compound
immediately, centering the tape on the joint. Wipe
away the excess compound and smooth the joint
with a 6" knife. Let the compound dry overnight.
3. Apply a thin finish coat of compound with a 10"
wallboard knife . Allow the second coat to dry and
shrink overnight. Apply a final coat and let it dry
completely before sanding.
J. FINISH CORNERS
1. To finish inside corners, fold a strip of paper
wallboard tape in half by pinching the strip and
pulling it between thumb and forefinger. Apply a
thin layer of wallboard compound to both sides of
the inside corner, using a 4" wallboard knife.
2. Position the end of the folded tape strip at the
top of the joint and press the tape into the wet
compound with the knife. Smooth both sides of
the corner. To finish, see step 3 of Tape & Finish
Wallboard Joints (above). Note: Most walk-in closets
have a prehung door, which comes complete with
jambs. Now is the time to cut and install the door
casings and stain or paint the trim pieces as desired.
See page 114 for detailed instructions on door
installations.
I New Closets: Building a Reach-in Closet

M
any people feel they have a lack of closet

space. If you have the space, building a new
closet could be the solution to your storage woes.
Whenever possible, position the walls of your
closet so they can be anchored to ceiling joists
and wall studs. Maintain a minimum depth of 30".
Install all needed electrical and plumbing lines in
the walls of the closet before hanging the wallboard.
Make sure you comply with local building codes

Stud finder
Framing square
Circular saw
Screw gun or drill
with bits
Plumb bob
Chalk line
Hammer
Wallboard knives
Wallboard lifter
Level
Tape measure
Ladder
Hand saw
Shims
Corner bead
Nail set
(17) 2 X 4" X S' pine studs
10d and 16d common nails
Sd casing nails
11/4" wallboard nails or screws
Wallboard tape
Wallboard compound
(6) Y2" X 4 X S' wallboard
32 X SO" prehung interior
door kit
Finishing materials
Key
Part
Dimension
Pes.
Jack stud
11/2 x 31/2 x 83W'
King stud
11/2 X 31/2 x 91 W'
End stud
11/2 X 31/2 x 91 W'
Intermediate stud
11/2 X 31/2 x 91 W'
Outside corner stud
11/2 X 31/2 X 93"
Inside corner stud
11/2 X 31/2 x 91 W'
Corner stud
11/2 x 31/2 x 91 W'
Side wall sale plate
Front wall sale plate
11/2 X 31/2 x 31 W'

11/2 X 31/2 X 30"
Upper top plate, front wall
Lower top plate, front wall
11/2 X 31/2 x 90W'

11/2 X 31/2 X 92W'
Upper top plate, side wall
11/2 X 31/2 X 35"
Lower top plate, side wall
11/2 X 31/2 x 31 W'
Cripple stud
11/2 X 31/2 x 6W'
Header
11/2 X 31/2 X 37"
when building a closet. Many codes require a

permanent light fixture in closets.
The plan shown here presumes a room with S-ft.
ceilings and a closet with a 32" door. If you alter the
dimensions, then the sizes of the pieces also will
change. Choose the style and size of the door for
your closet before you begin the framing. The type
of door you choose will determine the size of the
rough opening.
Rough Opening Detail
King stud
location
location
gap around
door
3/8"
Front view
Side view
Custom Installations
97
I How to Build a Reach-in Closet

B
Locate the existing wall studs and ceiling joists. Mark the
Check the pencil line with a framing square to ensure the
direction and edges of ea ch joist with a pencil .
layout is correctly placed.
Tip
If the top plates for one of the new walls cannot

be anchored to a ceiling joist, start the top plate
installation with the plates that can be anchored.
1. Measure and cut the upper and lower top plates
for the wall that can be anchored to the ceiling
joists. Position the upper top plate flush with the
lines on the ceiling and drive 16d nails through the
top plate into the ceiling joists.
2. Attach the lower top plate to the upper top plate
with 10d nails, making sure the side edges of the
two plates are flush, and the ends are spaced
properly for the corner construction.
3. Measure and cut the top plates for the remaining
wall to length. Facenail the two plates together
with 10d nails, making sure the side edges
are flush.
4. Position the top plate assembly on the ceiling
layout and drive 16d nails through the lower top
plate of the front wall into the upper top plate
of the side wall. Attach the other end of the top
plates by toenailing 16d nails through the top plate
assembly, into the top plate of the existing wall.
98 BUI LD YO UR OW N C USTOM C LOSET
A. LOCATE STUDS & JOISTS

1. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and
ceiling joists in the planned closet location.
2. Locate the edges of each framing m ember
and mark the direction of the ceiling joists.
B. LAY OUT THE TOP PLATE
LOCATIONS
1. W henever p ossible, adjust dimen sions to
line up with ceiling joists and wall studs.
T he double top plate construction makes it
possible to build th e closet even if the top
plates for one of the walls cannot be attach ed
to a ceiling joist, but the end studs for each
wall must be fastened to the studs or top and
sole plates in the existing walls .
2. M easure out from the back and side walls
and make referen ce marks for the location s
of new top plates.
3. Use a framin g square to make sure
the reference marks are straight and
perpendicular to the back wall.
4. Using a laser level, join the reference marks
with a pencil line . Use a framing square to
ensure lines are straight and perpendicular
with existin g walls .
D ,/
\
Facenail the front wall top plates with 16d nails.
Install the side wall top plates with 16d nails driven into the
ceiling joists.
Take multiple plumb bob readings to determine the
c.
INSTALL TOP PLATES FOR SIDE WALL

1. Measure and cut upper and lower top plates for
the side wall. The lower top plate should be 3 1/2"
shorter than the upper top plate to allow space for
the corner construction. Position the upper top
plate of the side wall flush with the pencil lines
and drive 16d nails through the top plate into the
ceiling joists.
2. Attach the lower top plate to the upper top plate
with 10d nails, making sure the side edges of the
top plates are flush and the spacing is accurate for
the corner construction.
D. INSTALL TOP PLATES FOR FRONT WALL

1. Cut upper and lower top plates for the front wall
to length with a circular saw. Make sure the lower
top plate is 2" longer than the upper top plate to
allow space for the corner construction. Position
the upper top plate of the front wall flush with the
pencil lines and facenail it to the ceiling joists with
16d nails.
2. Position the lower top plate against the upper top
plate so the side edges are flush and the spacing
is accurate for the corner construction. Facenail
the lower top plate to the upper top plate with
10d nails.
locations of the sole plates.
E. LAY OUT THE ROUGH OPENING &

SOLE PLATES
1. Measure and mark the layout for rough opening
framing members of the door on the lower top
plate of the front wall. The width of the rough
opening should equal the width of the door frame
plus %" on each side. Make marks indicating the
jack and king stud locations.
2. Determine the position of the sole plates with
multiple plumb bob readings. Hang a plumb bob
from the outside edges of each end of the top
plate assemblies for both new walls. The tip of the
plumb bob should nearly touch the floor. When
it is completely motionless, mark the plumb bob's
position on the floor with a pencil.
3. Take additional plumb bob readings from the doorside mark of both jack studs to indicate the end
of each bottom plate for the front wall.
4. Snap chalk lines on the floor, marking the locations
for sole plates. Then use a right angle square to
square off the ends of the markings for the sole
plates of the front wall, indicating the beginning
of the rough opening for the door.
99
., '
Fasten the corner stud assembly with 10d nails. Follow the
Corner Detail drawing on page 97.
Install the sole plates with 10d nails driven every 16".
Endnail the header flush with the reference marks indicating

the height of the jack studs.
Toenail the end and intermed iate studs with 10d nails driven
into the lower top plates and the sole plates.
F. INSTALL THE SOLE PLATES

Measure and cut the sole plates to length. Following
the chalk lines snapped on the floor, install the sole
plates with 10d nails driven through the sole plates at
16" intervals. Make sure the plates are flush with the
chalk lines.
G. INSTALL THE END AND

INTERMEDIATE STUDS
1. Measure and cut the end studs to length.
2. Toenail the end studs to the top and sole plates
with 10d nails. Facenail the end studs to the
existing wall studs with 16d nails.
3. Measure and cut the intermediate studs to length
individually, working from the existing walls toward
the new corner. Install the studs at intervals no
greater than 24" so the wallboard will have proper
backing. Toenail the studs to the lower top plates
and sole plates with 10d nails.
H. INSTALL THE CORNER ASSEMBLY

Refer to the Corner Assembly Detail on page 97 for
the exact placement of studs and the nailing method
of the corner assembly.
1. Measure and cut the three studs of the corner
assembly to length.
2. Toenail and end nail each stud to the top and sole
plates with 10d nails. Then drive 10d nails through
the surface of each stud as shown in the Corner
Detail.
I. INSTALL THE KING STUDS & HEADER

1. Measure, cut, and toenail the king studs with 10d
nails on the king stud markings of the lower top
plate and 11/2" from the end of each sole plate.
2. Use a combination square and a pencil to mark
the height of the jack stud on each king stud. The
height of a jack stud for a standard door is 83 1/ 2",
or 1/ 2" taller than the door.
3. Cut the header to fit snugly between the king studs
and endnail it to the king studs so the bottom edge
is flush with the reference lines indicating the
height of the jack studs.
Drive 10d nails through the top of the header into the ends
of the jack studs.
Apply wallboard compound to joints with a 6" wallboard
knife, and then press wallboard tape into the compound.

Smooth tape with the knife. For corners (inset), install corner
bead with nails or screws driven every 8" .
Tip
Install wallboard panels using a screwgun and 1%"
wallboard screws, spacing the screws every 10".
J. INSTALL THE JACK & CRIPPLE STUDS

1. Measure, cut, and position the jack studs against
the inside surface of the king studs, making sure
the edges are flush. Endnail the jack studs in place,
driving 10d nails through the header, into the jack.
2. Measure and cut a header cripple stud to coincide
with the general stud layout.
3. Toenail the cripple stud to the lower top plate, and
drive 10d nails through the bottom of the header
into the cripple stud.
K. HANG THE WALLBOARD
1. Install any electrical wiring in the walls before
you begin to hang the wallboard.
2. Hang wallboard on the interior and exterior of the
closet, beginning with the interior. Use a wallboard
lifter to raise the panels tight against the ceiling.
Measure and cut each panel to size, working from
one end of the closet to the other (see page 95 for
help with cutting wallboard). Plumb the first panel
with a level, making sure the side edges fall on
the center of a stud and are flush with the existing
wall. Attach each panel with 11/4" wallboard screws
driven every 10" into the studs.
Plan the layout of the wallboard panels, avoiding

joints that fall at the corners of the door opening.
Joints at these corners often crack and cause bulges
that interfere with door trim installation. Unless the
panels span the entire wall, install them vertically to
avoid butt joints that are difficult to finish.
L. FINISH THE WALLBOARD JOINTS

1. Apply a thin layer of wallboard compound over
the joints with a 4 or 6" wallboard knife. Press
wallboard tape into the compound immediately,
centering the tape on the joint. Wipe away any
excess compound and smooth the joint with a 6"
knife. Let the compound dry overnight.
2. Apply a thin finish coat of compound with a 10"
wallboard knife. Allow the second coat to dry and
shrink overnight.
3. Apply the last coat and let it dry before sanding the
joints smooth.
4. To finish inside corners, see page 96.
5. Position corner bead on the outside corner.
Use a level to adjust the bead so the corner is
plumb and attach it with 1 1/4" wallboard nails
or screws spaced at 8" intervals.
6. Cover the corner bead with three coats of
wallboard compound, using a 6 or 10"
wallboard knife. Note: To install the prehung interior
door and door casing, see page 117.
101
Adding
Accessories
O
nce you have your closet system in place,

accessories add the final touch. These items
accent any closet and are often credited for the luxury
and personal touch associated with custom closets.
In this section several of the most popular custom
accessories are explained in detail to allow you to put
them to use with ease.
In this section:
Rods
Shoe Cubby
Tie & Belt Rack
Drawers
Cabinet Doors
Closet Doors
Ventilation Systems
Baskets
Vertical Spacers
Closet Island
Drawer Components
103
I Rods
R
od end caps can be bought with 32mm pins to fit

in the shelf-pin holes on the vertical panels. These
are easily adjustable. There are also manufacturer rods
that you must screw into the vertical panels.
Small plastic rods
Metal or stainless
steel rods
I How to Cut Rods to Size

Closet rods come in a variety of styles-including
wood, steel, and plastic-and sizes. If needed, you can
cut rods to size. Be sure to buy rod end caps to fit the
diameter of the rod you choose.
A. MEASURE BETWEEN VERTICALS

1. Clamp the end caps to the verticals according to
the manufacturer instructions.
2. Measure between the two end caps to determine
the length needed for the rod. Remember to
allow for the manufacturer end cap as well
(typically 1/4").
3. Mark the cutline on your rod.
B. CUT ROD TO SIZE
1. Fasten the rod into a jig or onto a workbench
for safety.
2. Use a hacksaw to cut custom metal rod sizes.
Wood dowels
Painted wood
dowels
A'.
If your custom design doesn't match manufacturer rod

sizes, measure the interior space in between the two vertical
end caps, then mark this cutline on your rod.
104
cut the rod to size for your application. Use a hacksaw for
metal rods and circular saw for wood rods.
Measure 1 W' down from the underside of top shelf to allow
Align the end cap on center to a shelf-pin hole and press
for adequate hanger clearance.
manufacturer pins through the cap hole to fasten cap

to vertica l.
I How to Add Closet Rods
A. MARK END CAP LOCATIONS

1. Measure down 1112" from the underside of the top
shelf and make a mark on the vertical for hanger
clearance.
2. Repeat for the other vertical that will support
the rod.
B. FASTEN END CAPS TO VERTICALS
1. Center the rod end over the marks and on center
with the shelf-pin holes on the vertical.
2. Insert rod end caps into shelf-pin holes according
to manufacturer instructions.
C. PLACE ROD
1. Lower the rod into place. Be sure the rod snaps
securely into place.
2. Check for level and adjust as necessary.
ALTERNATIVE: USING SCREW-MOUNTED
END CAPS
1. Measure down 1 1/2 " and make a mark for hanger
clearance. Repeat for the other vertical that will
support the rod.
2. Center the rod end cap over the mark and on
center with the shelf-pin holes on the vertical.
3. Hold the rod end cap in place over marks and drill
manufacturer screws through end cap holes and
into vertical panel. Repeat for the other side.
Hold the rod over each end cap and lower into place.
Alternative: Use the predrilled holes at locations for
screw-mounted end caps as well.
A ccesso ries
10 5
I Shoe Cubby
T
his shoe cubby is designed to sljde on top of a

shelf in an existing unit (as shown on page 44).
The vertical spacers are fixed to the top shelf, and
all other shelving is adj ustable . To ensure your
cubby pars align with the verticals in the section
the cubby will reside, it's crucial to have the
e ntire custom closet unit level and plumb before
attempting to cut cubby parts.

2" wood screws
Caps for screw holes
Screwdriver
(36) shelf pins
(2) KDs with screws
(2) KDs with screw/
dowels
Measuring tape
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Framing square
Drill
20mm bits
Rubber mallet
Key Part
Dimension
Pes. Material
%" melamine shelf stock

with predrilled pin holes
%" melamine shelf stock
with predrilled pin holes
W'melamine
Cubby pars
24 x 12 x 18 W'
Fixed shelf
24 x 12"
Adjustable shelves 7% x 12"
Unit
Vertical
Unit
Vertical
2\
I How to Build a custom Shoe Cubby

A. PREPARE PARS
1. Level and plumb the entire custom closet unit.
2. In the section the cubby will reside, measure
from the bottom shelf (which the cubby
will sit on) up to the first shelf-pin hole of a
vertical (left and right vertical pin holes in
this section should match if unit is level). Be
sure to measure to the center of the hole.
3. Transfer the measurement taken in step 2
to your first shoe cubby par (make sure the
par is the same depth as the custom closet
unit-here it is 12"). Measure from the
bottom of pre drilled shelf stock up to the
nearest shelf-pin hole. If the measurement
doesn't align on center with a predrilled pin
hole, move up to the nearest hole on center
and measure down to create a new base
cutline. Cut shelf stock at this mark using
a circular saw with a melamine blade. Note:
If you are drilling your own pin holes, simply
measure up from the melamine bottom edge
and make a mark for your first pin hole center.
Follow the instructions on page 46 for drilling
the pin holes.
4. From the base cutline, measure up 18 1/2" and

make a mark. Cut the shelf at this mark using a
circular saw with a melamine blade.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the other cubby par.
B. CUT FIXED SHELF

1. On 3J4" -thick melamine shelf stock with predrilled
holes mark the length at 23 1/4". Using a framing
square, draw a line across the shelf stock at mark.
2. Cut the shelf at cutline, using a circular saw with a
melamine blade.
C. PREPARE FIXED SHELF
1. Mark the final placement location for KDs (on
center to shelf-pin holes on verticals). Set the KDs
back from shelf edges based on size, following
manufacturer instructions (see page 46 for help
with marking and drilling holes for KDs).
2. Drill a hole on fixed shelf for KDs, using a bit size
recommended by the manufacturer (20mm is
standard). Mark the stop location on your bit
with tape so you don't drill through the board.
3. Tap KDs into place on fixed shelves using a
rubber mallet.
Measure from the bottom shelf.
Cut the top shelf with a circular saw
Align the fixed shelves with pars and
which the cubby will rest upon, up to

the desired height. Align height mark on
center to shelf-pin hole (inset).
mark for KD on underside of shelves.
A ccesso ries
107
,.
,
Countersink screws through the fixed shelf into pars.
D. ATTACH FIXED SHELF TO VERTICALS

1. Measure in 73/4" from the left (vertical ) side of
the fixed shelf and make two marks 3" in from the
front and back edges on the underside of the shelf.
This is the center placement for the pars.
2. Drill a pilot hole at marks.
3. Set a par on center to marks on fixed shelf.
Countersink 2" screws through the top of the fixed
shelf down into the center of the par at marks.
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other par on the
right side.
5. Place a cap in the countersunk holes for a
smooth finish.
When measuring the cuts for shelving, be sure to

compensate for cut waste based on your type of circular
saw blade.
E. PREPARE ADJUSTABLE SHELVES

1. Measure out nine 12 X 7" shelves on a piece
of 1/ 2"-thick melamine shelf stock without
pre drilled holes.
2. Cut the shelf stock at cutlines, using a circular
saw with a melamine blade.
F. FINISH
1. Set the shoe cubby unit in place within your
custom closet.
2. Lock down cams on the fixed shelf, using a
screwdriver. The left side has a cam and screw,
while the right side has a cam and dowel (which
fits over the screw on the other side of the vertical
that is attac hed to another fixed shelf-see plans
on page 44).
3. Add shelf pins where desired and slide in
adjustable shelving.
It is easiest to install adjustable shelving by first tilting it

at a 45 angle, sliding it into place, and then lowering
it down level onto the shelf pegs. Tap into place, if necessary.
I Ties & Belt Rack

T
here are several tie and belt racks for sale. The
manufacturer versions are often made to attach
directly into the shelf pin holes on the verticals in your
custom closet, making placement and adjustability
a breeze. You can find those racks at home centers
and online (see Resources on page 140). To make
a custom tie and belt rack, follow the instructions
given here. This heavy-duty cedar hanger will protect
your winter coats from moth damage when used as
a standard hanger, or it can keep your ties and belts
organized and easily accessible.
Tools, Materials &

eUtting List ~
Drill with bits
Jigsaw
Sander with 120-grit sandpaper
Combination square
Key
Part
Dimension
Pes.
Hanger body*
1 x 6 x 20"
Shoulder hooks
1W'
13
Cup hooks
5116"
Large utility hook
'"Material: aromatic cedar
c
This manufacturer tie rack fastens directly into predrilled
shelf-pin holes. Such versions are widely available and easy
to install .
A ccesso ries
109
I How to Make a Tie & Belt Rack

A. MAKE THE HANGER BODY
1. Trace the outline of the body of a standard plastic
or metal hanger onto a piece of I" aromatic cedar.
Use a jigsaw to cut along the outline.
2. Sand the hanger body, using 120-grit sandpaper.
Round edges and smooth faces.
B. LAY OUT THE BELT HOOK LOCATIONS
1. Mark a center line across the face of the workpiece
using a combination square. Extend the line across
the bottom and top edges.
2. To make the layout for the belt hooks, measure 2"
on either side of the center-line mark and draw
reference marks across the bottom edge of the
workpiece. Measuring toward the outside edges
from your reference marks, draw additional marks
in 11/2" increments for each belt hook.
3. Set a combination square to half the thickness of
the hanger, and use the end of the ruler as a guide
to draw reference X marks through the previous
marks for each belt hook location.
C. LAY OUT TIE & HANGING HOOK
LOCATIONS
1. Position one edge of a combination square ruler
flush with the lower edge of the workpiece so
the end of the ruler is flush with the center line.
Draw a horizontal line I" from the bottom edge,
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
then without moving the ruler make a vertical

reference mark I" from the center line. Make
additional reference marks in 11/2" increments
toward the outer edge for as many hooks as
desired.
Make an additional horizontal reference line I"
above the first line and repeat the previous step.
To stagger the layout of the tie hooks, the first
mark should be 3/4" from the center mark and in
11/2" increments to the outer edge.
Repeat the steps taken to layout the hook
locations on the other side of the center line,
and the back of the workpiece, if desired.
To find the large utility hook location on the top
of the workpiece, set the combination square
ruler to half the thickness of the workpiece.
Position the square flush with the front side of
the workpiece and make a reference line through
the center line across the top edge.
Drill 1/4 "-deep pilot holes at every reference mark
for a tie or belt hook. Drill a 1/2 "-deep pilot hole
for the utility hook at the intersection of the two
reference lines on the top edge of the hanger.
Erase all reference marks and screw the shoulder
hooks in the tie holes and the cup hooks in the
belt holes. Finally, screw the utility hook in place.
Do not apply finish. Sand the hanger on occasion
with fine sandpaper to replenish the scent.
Cut the aromatic cedar with even
Use a combination square to make
Offset the reference marks in the
pressure applied to the saw, or your cuts

will be rough and more difficult to sand.
straight, accurate reference marks.
second tier of tie hooks by measuring

out 3J4" from the center mark.
I Drawers
he melamine drawers sold at home centers will

work for the modular installations in this book. It is
a good idea to find out which sizes are available before
designing the size of the section in which the drawers
will be placed. Standard sizes include 16 X 10",25 X
5", and 25 X 10".
To make your own custom drawers to fit any sized

section (with an average maximum of 36"), adjust the
parts sizes and then follow the simple instructions
in this project. Be sure to use glue specifically for
melamine products when making drawers out of
melamine-regular wood glue does not work as well.

Circular saw with a melamine blade
Biscuit joiner
Drill and 3/16 " bit
Piloting bit for screws
Iron
1 1/4" and 1 112" deck screws
Tack-on drawer glides
Melamine glue
Biscuits
Heat-activated veneer tape
Other finishing materials (as desired)
Key
Part
Dimension
Pes.
Drawer sides
% x 31/2 x 10%"
Drawer ends
3lf2 x 121/2 x %"
Drawer front
5 x 15%" x 3/4"
Drawer bottom
9 x 121/2 x%"
Note: Measurements reflect the actual size of

dimension lumber. Custom sizes must be made to fit
custom sections in which drawers will be placed.
'I-
A ccesso ries
111
I How to Build Drawers

A. BUILD THE DRAWER
1. Cut drawer bottom, front, ends, and sides to size
using a circular saw with a melamine blade.
2. Layout the two mating pieces of material on a
flat surface. Draw a line midway across the joint.
Position the drawer bottom between the ends,
keeping the bottom edges and the ends flush.
Mark two locations near the center along a drawer
end's side. Mark the same locations on the drawer
bottom's side. This is the center line for the
biscuits. Hold a biscuit centered over the spaces
to be sure they are spaced at least 4" apart.
3. Align the drawer sides so their front edges are
flush with the front face of the front drawer end.
Repeat step 2 through 4 for the drawer sides.
4. At marks, use a biscuit joiner to cut slots for the
biscuits. Test-fit biscuits in the slots and align
drawer ends and sides with drawer bottom.
5. Cover the slots on each drawer end with glue, and
insert the biscuits. Insert glue into bottom unit
slots, and then fit the slots together.
6. Position the drawer bottom between the ends,
keeping the bottom edges and ends flush. Note:
Biscuits swell once they are in contact with glue.
7. Countersink 1 1/ 2" drywall screws through the
drawer ends and into the drawer bottom at each
corner. Repeat for drawer sides.
8. Fasten sides to ends with 1 112" countersunk
drywall screws. Rear ends of drawer sides
overhang the rear drawer end by 1/4".
9. Draw a reference line along the inside face of the

drawer front 1/4" above the bottom edge. Lay the
front flat. Center the drawer from side to side on
the front with its bottom edge on the reference
line. Apply glue, and drive 11/4" drywall screws
through the drawer end and into the front.
B. INSTALL GLIDE ONTO VERTICALS &

ADD DRAWER KNOBS
1. Fasten the glide to verticals with panhead screws.
Note: For verticals with predrilled shelf-pin holes
some manufacturers of drawer glides suggest to
insert Euro or barrel screws through glide and into
predrilled holes.
2. Fasten the drawer knobs to the drawer front. Be
sure to space the knobs evenly, and center them
from top to bottom on the drawer front.
3. Fill all countersunk screw holes with plastic caps,
add edge tape to exposed edges (see page 47 ).
C. INSTALL THE HARDWARE
Store-bought kits include all of the hardware needed
to install a track system. Always follow manufacturer
directions when installing hardware.
1. Align the glides along the path of the drawer so
they line up with track on vertical.
2. Fasten glides to drawers with panhead screws.
3. Insert the drawer. With the drawer open slightly,
reach in and rotate the drawer stop until it is in
position to catch the stop cleat.
B
I"
.:......-...
Make biscuit slots with a biscuit

joiner. Fasten the drawer sides and ends
to the drawer bottom with melamine
glue and biscuits. Reinforce with screws.
Fasten glides to verticals at predrilled

holes with Euro or barrel screws.
Install drawer glides along the

path of the drawer according to
I Cabinet Doors
abinet doors are easy to make using WI finishgrade plywood and door-edge moldings. The
Y2 " finish-grade ven eer mate rial at most home
centers- in oak, maple, or birch- tends to warp
and won't stay flat unless it's attached to a rigid
hardwid form. The % " finish-grade stays flatter
than WI, but it can be a little bulky for doors.

Cabinet-grade plywood is a big step up in quality.
Also called "hardwood-core ," this plywood is
made stiffer and stronger than standard (veneercore ) plywood mentioned above, and it's less likely
to warp .
Measure the width and height of the
Attach hinges to the verticals and
Attach door handles or knobs, and
door opening from the outer edge of

verticals and fixed shelves.
door. Then attach door according to

any door catch hardware.
I How to Build & Install Cabinet Doors without Face Frames

A. PREPARE DOOR
M easure the width and height of the door opening
from the outer edge of verticals and fixed shelves. Cut
one or two door panels from 314" melamine. For one
door, the door panel should equal the width and height
of the door opening plus the surrounding verticals and
fixed shelves (each %" thick). For two doors, each
door panel should equal this same measured height of
the opening. The width of each panel will be half the
total width of the opening, minus 1/ 2". For example:
if opening is 14" high X 36" wide, each door
panel should be 14" high X 17 1/ 2" wide . Tip: If the
opening is wider than 24", two doors are necessary.
B. MOUNT HINGES TO DOOR

1. Mount two fully concealed overlay hinges (cup or
Euro hinges ) to the back of the door, 2" from the
top and bottom. Note: Use three hinges if the door is
taller than 30".
2. Attach the other half of the hinges to the verticals,
following the hinge manufacturer instructions.
C. ATTACH HANDLES
Attach door handles or knobs, and any door catch
hardware, following manufacturer directions.
A ccesso ries
113
I Alternative: How to Build & Install an Overlay Cabinet Door

with Face Frames
Open the hinges and position the door over the

opening so it is aligned with the tape reference marks.
Drill pilot holes and anchor the hinges to the face frame
with mounting screws.
Mount two semi-concealed overlay hinges to the back of

the door, 2" from the top and bottom.
A. MOUNT HINGES TO DOOR

1. Measure the width and height of the door opening.
Cut one or two door panels from 1/ 2" finish-grade
pl)1\"Iood. For one door, the door panel should equal
the width and height of the door opening. For two
doors, each door panel should equal the measured
height of the opening. The width of each panel will
be half the total width of the opening, minus 1/2".
For example: if opening is 14" high X 36" wide,
each door panel should be 14" high x 17 1/2" wide.
Tip: If the opening is wider than 24", two doors are
necessary.
2. For each door, measure and cut door-edge
molding to frame the door panel, mitering the
ends at a 45 angle.
3. Attach door-edge molding to door panel by drilling
pilot holes and driving 11/2" finish nails through
the side of the molding and into the door panels.
Finish the door to match the built-in.
4. Mount two semi-concealed overlay hinges to
the back of the door, 2" from the top and bottom.
Note : Use three hinges if the door is taller
than 3D".
114
Attach door knobs or handles. following manufacturer

instructions.
B. MOUNT DOOR TO FACE FRAME

1. Use masking tape to mark a reference line on the
top face frame rail, 1/ 2 " above the door opening.
2. Position the door over the opening, aligning the top
edge with the tape reference line . Mark one hinge
location on the face frame with masking tape.
3. Open the hinges, and position the door against
the edge of the face frame so the hinge is aligned
with the tape marking the hinge locations. Drill
pilot holes, and anchor the hinges to the face
frame with the mounting screws. Remove the
masking tape.
C. ATTACH HANDLES
Attach door handles or knobs, and any door
catch hardware, following manufacturer directions.
I Closet Doors
C
hoosing the right door requires some thought

and evaluation. A door should complement the
architectural style of a home-or the design of the room
in which it resides-as well as meet the specific needs
of its location. The door you choose for your closet can
significantly enhance the look and feel of a room.
Closet doors, for example, largely offer privacy.
But if you prefer an open, contemporary feel to a
room, you may want to create an illusion of openness
by choosing translucent or colored glass doors. If you
worked really hard at customizing your closet, you
may want to showcase it with clear glass doors!
When planning your project, keep in mind that
interior passage doors into a walk-in closet must be
at least 30" wide, and they are usually 1%" thick.
However, for greater accessibility, all interior doors
should be a minimum of 32" wide. Double-entry
doors, such as French style doors, may be 60, 64,
or 72" wide. The standard height for any door is 80".
The material you choose is just as important as the
style. Closet doors may be hollow-core or solid-core.
French doors incorporate glass panels in their design.
The basic steps for framing a rough opening for
an interior prehung door are the same for closet doors.
However, for large closet openings, such as for double
bifold or bypass doors, use a built-up header: two
2 X 4s set on edge and nailed together with a strip
of 1l2"-thick plywood in between. This provides
additional strength to support the weight of the doors.
Most bifold doors are designed to fit in an 80"-high finished
opening. Wood bifold doors have the advantage of allowing

you to trim doors to fit openings that are slightly shorter.
Standard bypass door openings are 4, 5, 6, or 8'. Th e
The rough opening for a pocket door must be roughly
finished width should be 1" narrower than the combined

width of the doors to provide a 1" overlap whe n the doors
are closed. For long closets that require three or more doors,
subtract another 1" from the width of the finished opening for
each door. Check the hardware insta llation instructions for the
required height of the opening.
twice the width of the door itse lf to allow the door to slide
comp letely into the enclosure in the finished wa ll. The
enclosure is formed by nailing a pocket door cage (available
at home centers) to the framing, then adding wa llboard and
trim. Consult the cage manufacturer's instructions for the
dimensions of the rough opening.
A ccesso ries
115
Door Openings
The projects that follow show you how to build

door frames and install new doors for your closets.
First you must identify if your wall is load-bearing.
Load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of your
home. In platform-frame houses, load-bearing walls
can be identified by double top plates made from two
layers of framing lumber. Load-bearing walls included all
exterior walls and any interior walls that are aligned above
support beams. If you discover the wall is load-bearing,
consult a building professional to discuss your project.
Top plate
Cripple stud
"
Nonload-bearing, or partition, walls are interior walls that

do not carry the structural weight of the house. They have
a single top plate and can be perpendicular to floor and
ceiling joists but are not aligned above support beams.
Any interior wall that is parallel to floor and ceiling joists
is a partition wall.
Although different door styles require different frame
openings, the same basic framing techniques are used.
Purchase the doors and hardware in advance, and consult
the hardware manufacturer's instructions for exact
dimensions of the rough opening for the type of door
you select.
Bottom
plate
BUilt-up Header
Construction
adhesive
1/2 "
plywood
Door frames have king studs attached to the wall

plates and jack studs that support the header. Cripple
studs transfer the load from above onto the header and
are placed to maintain the stud layout. The dimensions of
the framed opening are called the rough opening.
116 BUILD YOUR OWN C USTOM C LOSET
"
Jack stud
Door frames, called rough openings, are sized

according to the dimensions of the door unit. In loadbearing walls, the weight from above the opening is
borne by the cripple studs, which are supported by a
header that spans the opening. A typical header is made
with two pieces of two 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s set on edge
and glued and nailed together with a strip of W'-thick
plywood in between (see illustration). This creates a rigid
horizontal member to help support the weight of the
doors, which is necessary for large closet openings with
heavy, double bifold or bypass doors. Some builders use
oversized headers, which eliminate the need for cripples.
Frames in non load-bearing walls may have only a single
2 x 4 for a header. Each end of the header is supported
by a jack stud that extends to the bottom plate and is
nailed to a king stud for support.
I Prehung Doors
Prehung doors come as single units with the door
already hung on hinges attached to a factory-built
frame. To secure the unit during shipping, most
prehung doors are braced or nailed shut with a couple
of duplex nails driven through the jambs and into the
door edge. These nails must be removed before you
install the door. The key to installing doors is to plumb
and fasten the hinge-side jamb first. After that's in
Tools & Materials

Miter saw
Straightedge
Drill and bits
4-ft. level
Nail set
Handsaw
place, you can position the top and latch-side jambs by

checking the reveal (the gap be tween the closed door
and the jamb).
Standard prehung doors have 4 1/2 "-wide jambs
and are sized to fit walls with 2 X 4 construction and
1/ 2 " wallboard. If you have thicker walls, you can
special-order doors to match, or you can add jamb
extensions to standard-size doors.
~
Prehung door unit
Wood shims
Sd casing nails

Door casing
Wood putty
A ccesso ries
11 7
I How to Install a prehung Door

A
Set the door unit into the framed opening. Using a leve l,
Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d casing nails.
adjust the unit so the hinge-side jamb is plumb.
A. ALIGN DOOR UNIT

Slide the door unit into the framed opening so the
edges of the jambs are flush with the wall surface
and the hinge-side jamb is plumb.
B. INSERT DOOR SHIMS

1. Insert pairs of wood shims driven from opposite
directions into the space between the framing
members and the hinge-side jamb. Check the
hinge-side jamb to make sure it is still plumb
and does not bow.
2. Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d casing nails
driven through the jamb and shims and into the
jack stud.
3. Insert pairs of shims in the space between the
framing members and latch-side jamb and top
jamb. With the door closed, adjust the shims so the
gap between door edge and jamb is l/S" wide. Drive
8d casing nails through the jambs and shims, into
the framing members.
C. FINISH INSTALLATION
1. Set all nails below the surface of the wood with
a nail set.
2. Cut the shims flush with the wall surface, using
a handsaw. Hold the saw vertically to prevent
damage to the door jamb or wall.
3. Finish the door and install the lockset as directed
118
Cut the shims flush with the wall surface, using a handsaw.
Measure the distance between the side casings, and cut the top casing to fit.
D. PREPARE HEAD CASINGS & MARK

SIDE CASINGS
1. On each jamb, mark a reveal line I/S" from the
inside edge. The casings will be installed flush with
these lines.
2. C ut the head casing to length. Mark the
centerpoin t of th e head casings and th e
centerpoin t of the head jamb . Align the casing
with the head jamb reveal line, matching the
centerpoints so that the head casing extends
evenly beyond both side jambs. Nail the casing
to the wall at stud locations and at the jamb.
3. Hold the side casings against the head casing
and mark them for cutting.
using a miter saw, make 45 cuts on the ends of the moldings.
E. CUT SIDE CASINGS

Cut the side casings to length. Note: If desired, make
45 miter cuts on the top end of the casing. J\!leasure
and cut the other vertical casing piece, using the same
method.
F. FASTEN SIDE CASINGS

Align the side casings with the side jamb reveal lines ,
and then nail the casings to the jambs and framing
members. Set the nails using a nail set. Fill the nail
holes with wood putty.
Locknail the corner joints by drilling pilot holes and driving
4d finish nails through each corner, as shown.
A ccesso ries
119
French Doors
If the doorway is in a load-bearing wall, set up
temporary supports and install an appropriately sized
header. Depth is critical: it's based on the length of
the header, the material it's made from, and the weight
of the load it must support. For actual requirements,
consult your local building department.
French doors create a grand entrance into a custom

closet. They consist of two separate doors hinged
on opposing jambs of a doorway. For a closet, you'll
most likely want the doors top open into the room,
providing easier access to closet items. French doors
are typically sold in prehung units.
Before purchasing a prehung French door unit,
determine the size of doors you need. If you plan to
install the doors in an existing doorway, measure the
dimensions of the rough opening (from the unfinished
framing members), and then order the unit to size
according to manufacturer recommendations.
If you must alter the existing opening (as shown
in this project), build the rough opening a little larger
than the outside dimensions of the door unit. Prehung
units typically require adding I" to the width and 1;2"
to the height.
A
Wallboard cut
back for access
Use
existing
framing
where
possible
Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Circular saw
Reciprocating saw
4-ft. level
Hammer
Handsaw
Drill
Utility knife
Nail set
"
Old header and " "

jack stud to be
~
removed
,Old stUdS,
marked
-------for cripple
-srutts----
New heade
location
Prehung French door

unit
2 X 4 lumber
2 X 6 lumber
10d and 16d common
nails
Wood shims
8d finish nails
I I
I I
I I
;.,.-
- --- -,, II
_New king
stud location
/- ___I J:I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
: I I
I I I
I I I
I I I
Wallboard
cut back for
access
New jack
stud location
I How to Install French Doors

A. FRAME THE ROUGH OPENING
1. Shut off power and water to the area. Remove
the wall surfaces from both sides of the wall,
leaving one stud bay open on each side of the new
rough opening. Also remove or reroute any wiring,
plumbing, or ductwork. Layout the new rough
opening, marking the locations of all new jack
and king studs on both the top and bottom plates.
Where practical, use existing framing members.
Tip: To install a new king stud, cut a stud to size and
align with the layout marks, toenail to the bottom
120
plate with 10d common nails, check for plumb,

and then toenail to the top plate. Finally, mark both
the bottom and top of the new header on one king
stud, then use a level to extend the lines across the
intermediate studs to the opposite king stud. If using
existing framing, measure from the existing jack stud.
2. Cut the intermediate studs at the reference marks
for the top of the header, using a reciprocating saw
or handsaw. Pry the studs away from the sole plates
and remove. The remaining top pieces will be used
as cripple studs.
Make sure the jamb is plumb, then anchor it with 8d finish
nails. Leave the nail heads partially protruding so the jamb can
be readjusted later, if necessary.
Holding the prehung door in the framed opening, insert
shims into the gap between the framing and the jamb. Check
the Jamb to make sure it remains plumb.
With doors closed, adjust the shims so the reveal between
3. To install a jack stud, cut the stud to fit between

the sole plate and the bottom of the header, as
marked on the king stud. Align it at the mark
against the king stud, and then fasten it to the
king stud with 10d common nails driven every
12" and toenail to the top plate.
4. Build the header to size and install, fastening it to
the jack studs, king studs, and cripple studs using
16d common nails. Use a handsaw to cut through
the bottom plate so it's flush with the inside faces
of the jack studs. Remove the cutout portion.
5. Finish the walls with wallboard before installing
the doors.
the doors is even. Shim the gap between the header and the
head jamb (inset) to create a consistent reveal along the top
when the doors are closed.
B. INSTALL PREHUNG FRENCH DOORS

1. Set the prehung door unit into the framed
opening so the jamb edges are flush with the
finished wall surfaces and the unit is centered
from side to side.
2. Using a level, adjust the unit to plumb one of
the side jambs. Starting near the top of the
door, insert pairs of shims driven from opposite
directions into the gap between the framing and
the jamb. Slide the shims in until they are snug.
Check the jamb to make sure it remains plumb
and does not bow inward. Repeat with the other
side , aligning them roughly with the shims of the
first jamb.
D. ADJUST REVEAL LINE & FINISH

1. With the doors closed, adjust the shims so the
reveal between the doors is even and the tops
of the doors align.
2. Shim the gap between the header and the head
jamb to create a consistent reveal along the top
when the doors are closed. Insert pairs of shims
every 12". Drive 8d finish nails through the jambs
and shims and into the faming members.
3. Drive the nails in, and then set them below the
surface with a nail set. Cut off the shims flush with
the wall surface, using a handsaw or utility knife.
Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage to the
door jamb or wall. Install the door casing.
C. ANCHOR SHIMS
1. Working down along the jamb, continue to install
shims near each hinge and near the floor.
2. Make sure the jamb is plumb, then anchor it with
8d finish nails driven through the jamb and shims
and into the framing. Leave the nail heads partially
protruding so the jamb can be adjusted later if
necessary.
A ccesso ries
121
Track trim board
\
\
\
\
Tri-wheeled
hanger
Door
bracket
Split studs
Bumper
I Pocket Doors
Door guide
Pocket doors are a space-saving alternative to

traditional hinged doors, but remember that the wall
used for the pocket cannot be used for hanging a
custom closet section. Pocket door hardware kits can
be adapted for almost any interior door. In this project,
the frame kit includes an adjustable track, steel-clad
split studs, and all the required hanging hardware. The
latch hardware, jambs, and the door itself are all sold
separately. Pocket door frames can also be purchased
as preas sembled units that can be easily installed into
a rough opening.
Framing and installing a pocket door is not
difficult in new construction or a major remodel. But
retrofitting a pocket door in place of a standard door,
or installing one in a wall without an existing door, is a
major project that involves removing the wall material,
framing the new opening, installing and hanging the
door, and refinishinab the wall. Hidden utilities, such
as wiring, plumbing, and heating ducts, must be
rerouted if encountered.
The rough opening for a pocket door is at least
twice the width of a standard door opening. For this
size of rough opening, use a built-up header (see page
115). Check with your local building department
about sizing for your project.
122
Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Hammer
Nail set
Screwdriver
Level
Drill
Hacksaw
Wallboard tools
2 X 4 lumber
8d, and 6d common
nails
Chalk lines
Pocket door frame kit
Door
11/4" wallboard screws
Wallboard materials
Manufactured pocket
door jambs (or cut
jambs from Ix
lumber)
11/2" wood screws
Door casing
Wood finishing
materials
I How to Install a Pocket Door

A
Mark each jack stud at the height of the door plus %" (or
Set end brackets of track over nails in jack studs. Then
1Vi' depending on the door clearance above the floor). Drive a

nail into each jack stud, leaving about 1js" protruding.
drive 8d common nails through the remaining holes in the

end bracket.
A. FRAME ROUGH OPENING

1. Prepare the project area and frame the rough
opening to the manufacturer's recommended
dimensions.
2. Measuring from the floor, mark each jack stud at
the height of the door plus 3/4 to 11/2" (depending
on the door clearance above the floor) for the
overhead door track.
3. Drive a nail into each jack stud, centered on the
mark. Leave about l/S" of the nail protruding
(for end brackets).
Butt split stud pair against the door track trim board and
B. CUT & FASTEN TRACK

1. Remove the adjustable end bracket from the
overhead door track.
2. Cut the wooden track header at the mark that
matches your door size. Turn the track over
and cut the metal track 13/s" shorter than the
wooden track header, using a hacksaw. Replace the
end bracket.
3. Cut the side trim boards along the marks
corresponding to your door size, being careful
not to cut the metal track.
4. Set end brackets of track on the nails in the jack
studs. Adjust track to level and set the nail. Then
drive Sd common nails through the remaining
holes in end brackets.
fasten it to the track header using 6d common nails.
C. INSTALL SPLIT STUDS

1. Snap chalk lines on the floor across the opening,
and even with the sides of the rough opening.
2. Tap floor plate spacers into bottom ends of pairs
of steel-clad split studs. Butt one split stud pair
against the door track trim board, check it for
plumb, and fasten it to the track header using 6d
common nails.
3. Center the other split stud pair in the "pocket" and
fas ten it to the track header.
4. Plumb the split studs again and attach them to
floor with Sd common nails or 2 screws driven
through spacer plates.
A ccesso ries
123
F
Tri-wheeled hanger
Install wallboard with 1%" wallboard screws. Do not finish
seams until the door has been installed and aligned .
Fasten the strike-side jamb to the jack stu d, using 3d finish
Set the door in the frame, aligning the hangers with the
nails. Shim the jamb to plumb as necessary.
door brackets. Raise the door and press each hanger into the
bracket until it snaps into place.
D. INSTALL WALLBOARD
Install wallboard over the pocket to the edge of the
opening. You may want to leave the wallboard off one
side of the wall to allow for door adjustment. Do not
finish wallboard until the door has been completely
installed and adjusted. Use 11/4" wallboard screws,
which will not protrude into the pocket.
2. When the door has dried, attach two door brackets

to the top of the door, using included screws driven
through pilot holes.
3. Install the rubber bumper to the rear edge of
the door with its included screw (follow the
manufacturer's recommendation for bumper
placement).
4. Slide two tri-wheeled hangers into the overhead
door track.
5. Set the door in the frame, aligning the hangers with
the door brackets. Then raise the door and press
each hanger into the door bracket until
it snaps into place. Close the lock arm over
the hanger.
6. Close the door and adjust the hanger nuts to
fine-tune the door height so the door is parallel
with the strike-side jamb from top to bottom.
E. INSTALL STRIKE-SIDE JAMB

1. Cut the strike-side jamb to length and width .
2. Fasten it to the jack stud, using Sd finish nails,
shimming jamb to plumb as necessary.
F. INSTALL DOOR
1. Paint or stain the door as desired. Note: For some
door handles and latch hardware, you may need to

notch the door before finishing.
124
Fasten each split jamb to the front edge of the split stud,
using 8d finish nails. Maintain a 3/16 " clearance on both sides

of door.
G. INSTALL SPLIT JAMBS

1. Measure and cut the split jambs to size. With the
door open all the way, hold the jambs against the
split studs to confirm that the door is flush with
jambs. If necessary, shim between the bumper and
door until the door is flush.
2. Fasten each split jamb to front edge of split stud,
using Sd finish nails. Maintain 3/16" clearance on
both sides of door.
Attach the head jamb on the side that has access to the
lock arm of the hangers with 1W' wood screws drive n

through countersunk pilot holes.
H. INSTALL SPLIT HEAD JAMB

1. Measure and cut the split head jambs to size.
2. Use 1 1/2" wood screws driven through countersunk
pilot holes to attach the head jamb on the side that
has access to the lock arm of the hangers . This
allows for easy removal of the door.
3. Attach the other head jamb using 6d finish nails.
Maintain 3/16 " clearance on each side of the door.
I. FINISHING TOUCHES
1. Install the included door guides on both sides of
the door near the floor at the mouth of the pocket.
2. Install the latch hardware according to the
manufacturer directions.
3. Finish the wallboard and install casing around
the door.
4 . Fill all nails holes with wood putty, then paint
or stain the jambs and casing as desired.
Install the door latch hardware according to the
A ccesso ries
125
I Bifold Doors
Bifold doors provide easy access to a closet without
reguiring much clearance for opening. Most home
centers stock kits that include two pairs of prehinged
doors, a head track, and all the necessary hardware
and fasteners. Typically, the doors in these kits
have predrilled holes for the pivot and guide posts.
Hardware kits also are sold separately for custom
projects. There are many types of bifold door styles,
so be sure to read and follow the manufacturer
instructions for the product you use.
126
Tools & Materials

Tape measure
Level
Circular saw
Straightedge
(optional)
Drill
Plane
Screwdriver
Hacksaw
Prehinged bifold doors

Head track
Mounting hardware
Panhead screws
Flathead screws
I How to Install a Bifold Door

A. MOUNT HEAD TRACK
1. Check to make sure the opening has square
corners, a level header, and straight jambs. To
operate properly, bifold doors must be hung level
and plumb in the opening.
2. Cut the head track to the width of the opening,
using a hacksaw.
3. Insert the roller mounts into the track, and then
position the track in the opening.
4. Fasten the track to the header, using panhead
screws.
5. Measure and mark each side jamb at the floor for
the anchor bracket, so the center of the bracket
aligns exactly with the center of the head track.
6. Fasten the bracke ts in place with flathead screws.
B. INSTALL POSTS
1. Check the h eight of the doors in the opening,
and trim if necessary. Make minor adjustments
using a plane, and larger alterations using a circular
saw and straightedge guide to ensure a clean,

straight cut.
2. Insert a pivot post into predrilled holes at the
top and bottom of the two jamb-side doors, at
the jamb side of each door. Make sure the pivot
posts fit snugly.
3. Insert a guidepost into the predrilled holes at
the top of both leading doors . Make sure the
guideposts fit snugly.
C. HANG DOOR
1. Fold one pair of doors closed and lift into
position, inserting the pivot and guideposts
into the head track.
2. Slip the bottom pivot post into the anchor bracket.
Rep eat for the other pair of doors.
3. Close the doors and check for e qual spacing
along the side jambs and down the center.
To align the doors , adjust the top and bottom
pivots following manufacturer instructions.
Insert pivot posts into predrilled holes at the bottoms

and tops of doors. Insert guide posts at the tops of the
leading doors.
Fasten the track to the header with pan head screws. Fasten
brackets to the side jambs with flathead screws.
Lift doors into position. inserting the pivot and guide posts
into the head track.
A ccesso ries
127
I Ventilation Systems
I How to Install Ventilation Fans
A. MARK & CUT THE FIRST WALL
1. Mark an area on the wall for the vent, making sure
there are no studs or other obstructions in this
area. Follow manufacturer instructions for exact
placement-some models have cords that must be
plugged into an outlet, so the vent must be close
enough to the wall to operate correctly.
2. Hold the fan or vent against the wall and trace
around the part of the unit that must fit into
the wall. Make sure any power cords are on
the downside (unless specified otherwise by
manufacturer).
3. Cut out the opening with a small wallboard saw,
cutting inside the pencil line.
B. MARK & CUT THE SECOND WALL
1. Trace the edge of the cutout onto the inside of the
other wallboard. Use a ruler to extend from the
cutline to the other wall and make marks on either
side of the ruler.
2. Use a small nail to create a few small holes in the
interior of the wall at marks.
3. Walk around to the other side of the wall to inspect
your pinhole marks from the exterior of the second
wall. Hold the other side of the fan up to the circle
and trace a cutline. This cutline should follow the
nail holes.
4. Cut the opening with a small drywall saw,
cutting inside the pencil line.
5. Insert the first half of the fan into the cutout

opening, following manufacturer instructions.
6. Insert the second half into the cutout opening
on the other side of the wall, fitting the two sides
together in the center of the wall.
C.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
INSTALL FAN
Mark the location of the wall anchors.
Drill the holes for the anchors with a 3/16 " drill bit.
Install the wall anchors.
Screw the grille down at wall anchor locations.
Repeat for the fan on the other wall.
Tip
If you have a power cord, run it along the baseboard

to the electrical outlet using cord control clips or a
cord channel.
Metal sleeve with

fan motor
Metal sleeve
for air intake
Plastic wall anchors

and screws
Mark the wall where there are no
Trace the cut line to the interior of the
Drill placement holes using a 1132"
studs, and then hold the vent up to the

wall and trace around it for a cut line.
other side of the wall.
drill bit.
128
I Baskets
B
askets offer well-ventilated storage for blankets

and clothing. They are also convenient solutions
for small knickknacks, craft supplies, and small
projects (s uch as knitting or crocheting). Baskets on
tracks ensure a permanent spot for your items-and
they are as easy to install as they are to use. Are you
ready? As soon as you can say 1-2-3 you'll have your
very own sliding baskets in your custom closet!
Tools & Materials

Screwdriver
Tape measure
Gliding basket kit (with

fastening hardware)
I How to Install a Gliding Basket

:A
Measure the width and depth of the space you want to
With a screwdriver, fasten Euro screws through the track
insert a basket.
and into the vertical. Follow manufacturer instructions (often,

the Euro screws fit directly into the predrilled holes in vertical).
A. Measure the space in between two verticals.

Baskets with tracks are sold at most home centers
now. Standard widths are 16 and 24". Standard
heights are 5 and 10". Standard depths are
12 and 14".
B. Holding basket in space, align a track and make
marks for its location on verticals. Fasten track to
vertical at this location following manufacturer
instructions. Some tracks have pins that simply
press into predrilled holes on vertical, while others
us e Euro or barrel screws.
C. Slide basket into place over tracks. Check for level,
and adjust if necessary.
Simply slide the basket into place over track, following
A ccesso ries
129
I Vertical Spacers
E
veryone has some of those awkward items that

don't seem to fit anywhere, and they are the items
that always end up tucked away into a corner where
they're hard to reach-or find!-at that moment when
you most need them. Vertical spacers are a nifty little
trick to keep those awkward, "often-forgot-about"
items neat and tidy year-round. They're the perfect
solution for everything from wrapping paper rolls,
baseball bats, and extra golf clubs to equestrian crops
and hockey sticks.
Our vertical spacers are designed to fit right into
a custom closet design-between two verticals. The
average width between verticals is 24", so our plan
specs match that. The height is determined by the
height of the items being stored. Our design is 30",
which accommodates most wrapping paper rolls.
We use 3A" -thick melamine stock.
Tape measure
Handheld screwdriver
Circular saw with
melamine blade
Drill and bit for KD
fittings
Rubber mallet
KDs
Key Part
Dimension
Shelf
3/4 x 13% x
Front panel
30 x 24"
Verticals
KDs
Pes.
291f4"
29% x 131f4"
Material
Melamine shelf stock

with predrilled holes
%"thick MDF sheet front
panel
%" melamine
With screws
I How to Make Vertical Spacers

A
to
.
Cut verticals to size, making sure you account for the top
shelf's 3/4" thickness.
A. MEASURE AND CUT VERTICALS

1. Measure and cut vertical spacers to size (13 1/4 X
29 1/4" ). Use a circular saw with a m elamine blade .
Cut at 3/S" on center of pin holes from top edge .
For a closet unit with 14" verticals, purchase 14
or 16" shelf stock and cut down to size of 13 1/4".
2. If you 're not using shelf stock with predrilled
holes, drill shelf-pin hole s along both sides of
each vertical (s ee page 46).
Drill holes on the inside of front panel at pencil marks.
B. MEASURE AND CUT FRONT PANEL

1. M easure and cut the front panel to size (24 x 30"),
using a circular saw.
2. Drill holes along the inside of the front panel
(see page 126 for drilling guide) for spacers to
fasten to.
C. INSTALL VERTICAL SPACERS

1. Slide spacers into place at desired locations.
Align front panel flush with verticals .
2. Adjust spacers so they are on center to pre drilled
holes in front panel. Mark two locations on each
spacer side for KDs- one toward the top and one
toward the bottom.
3. Rout out KD holes on vertical spacers at marks,
and according to manufacturer instructions.
4. Tap KDs into holes with a rubber mallet.
5. Fasten screws into predrlled holes in front panel,
leaving them sticking out about I/S ", so KDs can fit
over them.
6. Slide spacers into place with KDs fitting over
screws. Lock down the KDs.
Align front panel and vertical spacers and mark KD

locations on the vertical spacers.
A ccesso ries
131
I Closet Island
I
n the age of huge walk-ins, the closet island has

presented a unigue way to use the otherwise dead
space in the center of a large, wallan closet. This
project not only offers extra storage, it also offers a
convenient space to layout the day's clothing and
accessories. The slight overhang allows for short stools
or a bench to be tucked away or called into use for
getting ready in the morning. The island encourages
you to take your time and truly enjoy your closet.
132
Squares = 1"
~
I'
'1'<0,
I...
I'
'.
-,_ Part in detail
A
G
Tools
Cutting List
Tape measure
Circular Saw
Combination square
Jigsaw
Clamps
Drill
Hammer
Sandpaper
Orbital sander
Miter Saw
Nail set
Key Part
Materials
Wood glue
#6 wood screws (1", 1 1/2")
1/ 2" tacks
4d finish nails
(8) 24" shelf standards
Shelf standard supports
Contact cement
Finishing materials
Dimension
Pes. Material
End
5/8x 211/2 x 35"
Divider
5/8x 211/2 x 35"
Back
5/8x 221/8 x 35"
Bottom
5/8x 21lJ8 x 21W'
Pine
Toe kick
% x 3lJ2 x 44%"
Pine
Rail
% x 1lJ2 x 44W'
Pine
Stile
% x 11/2 x 28W'
Pine
Horizontal cleat
% x % x 20%"
Molding
Vertical cleat
Molding
Substrate
% x % x 35"
314 x 30 1/2 x 46W'
Top
114 x 30 1/2 x 46 1/2"
Tileboard
Long edge
% x 11/2 x 32"
Pine
Short edge
Pine
Support
% x 1lJ2 x 32"
11/2 x 71/4 x 7%"
Pine
Shelf
5/8x 20 1/2 x 20W'
Pine panel
Pine panel
Pine panel
Pine panel
Particleboard
A ccesso ries
133
I How to Make an Island
cut the toe-kick notches into the ends and divider using
Gang the cleats together while drilling countersunk
a Jigsaw.
pilot holes.
A. CUT THE ENDS & DIVIDER

1. Cut the ends and divider to size from pine panels,
using a circular saw.
2. Measure and mark the 3"-wide X 3 112"-tall toekick notches on the lower front corner of all
three pieces using a combination square. This
notch allows you to approach the cabinet without
stubbing your toes against the bottom.
3. Clamp each piece to your work surface, and cut
out the toe-kick notches using a jigsaw.
C. ASSEMBLE THE ENDS & DIVIDER

1. Align a vertical cleat along the inside back edge
of one of the ends. Align the pilot holes so the
back can be attached through the offset holes.
2. Apply glue and fasten the cleat to the end with
countersunk I" screws. Attach vertical cleats
to the inside face of the other end, and to both
back edges of the divider. Attach the horizontal
cleats to the ends and divider, using glue and
I" screws.
B. PREPARE THE CLEATS

The cleats reinforce the internal joints of the cabinet.
Countersunk pilot holes are drilled through each cleat
in two directions and are offset so the screws won't hit
one another.
1. Cut the horizontal and the verticals cleats to length
from % X %" stop molding.
2. Clamp the vertical cleats together so the ends are
flush , and mark four pilot hole locations along the
length of each cleat. Drill countersunk pilot holes
at each marked location.
3. Remove the clamps and give each cleat a quarter
turn. Reclamp the cleats, then mark and drill the
second set of offset pilot holes. Repeat the process
for the horizontal cleats, drilling three holes
through one edge of each cleat and two offset holes
through an adjacent edge.
D. ATTACH THE SHELF STANDARDS

1. Cut a 15 X 30" template from scrap
particleboard or heavy-stock cardboard. Make
sure the standards are properly aligned in the
same direction so the holes for the supports line
up.
2. Place the template on the lower horizontal cleat,
and center the template between the vertical
cleat and the front edge. Measure 2" up from
the bottom edge along each side of the template
and make a reference mark.
3. Place a standard against each edge of the
template and adjust so the bottom of the
standard is on the 2" mark. Nail the standards in
place with the provided nails.
4. Repeat for the other end, and on both faces of
the divider.
134
Center a marked template between the cleats to uniformly
attach the shelf standards.

Clamp the back to the divider along the centerline, and
E. ASSEMBLE THE CABINET

1. Cut the backs, bottoms, and toe-kick to size, and
sand the edges smooth.
2. Cut 3/4 X %" notches in the back corners of each
bottom to accommodate the vertical cleats.
3. Stand one end and the divider upright on their
front edges. Position a bottom piece against the
lower horizontal cleats . Use bar clamps to hold the
assembly in place, and attach the bottom with glue
and I" screws driven through the pilot holes in
each cleat. Position the remaining bottom and end
in place, and attach the bottom to the cleats.
4. Attach the back pieces one at a time, using glue
and I" screws driven through the vertical cleats
inside the cabinet. Make sure each back piece
is aligned with its inside edge flush against a
marked reference center line on the divider. Check
frequently for square, and use pipe clamps to hold
the pieces in position as you attach them.
5. Carefully turn the assembly over, and fasten the
toe-kick in place with glue and 4d finish nails.
adjust when attaching to the end.
Arrange the toe-kick so the corners and edges are flush, and
attach to the divider and ends with glue and 4d finish nails.
F. ASSEMBLE THE FACE FRAME

1. Cut the rails and stiles to size, and sand them
smooth. Position the top rail so the top edges
and corners are flush, and attach with glue and
finish nails. Attach the stiles so the outside edges
are flush with the end faces and centered on the
divider. Finally, attach the bottom rail.
2. Reinforce the joints by drilling pilot holes through
the rails into the ends of each stile and securing
with 4d finish nails.
3. Use an orbital sander to smooth the face frame
and the joints between stile and rails. By sanding
the stiles before the rails, you can avoid crosssanding marks at the joints.
Sand the rails after the stiles to avoid cross-sanding marks at
the toe-kick joints.
A ccesso ries
13 5
Clamp scrap boards to th e tileboard to distribute pressure

and establish good contact.
Attach the supports to the back from inside the cabinet

using glue and screws.
G. BUILD THE COUNTERTOP

1. Cut the particleboard substrate, tile board top ,
long edges, and short edges to size . Make sure the
top fits perfectly over the substrate, and trim if
necessary.
2. Miter-cut the ends of the long edges and short
edges at 45 angles to fit around the countertop.
3. Apply contact cement to the substrate , and clamp
the tileboard top in place, using scrap wood under
the clamps to distribute pressure and ensure even
contact with the cement.
4. Unclamp and flip the assembly on its top when
dry. Arrange the long and short edges around the
countertop so the top surface will be flush with the
tops of the edge pieces. Glue and clamp the edges
in place . Drill pilot holes and drive 4d finish nails
through the edges into the substrate.
3. C enter the countertop from side to side on the

cabinet with a I" overhang on the front. Attach
with glue and 1 1/ 2" screws driven up through the
top horizontal cleats. Insert supports into the
shelf standards at the desired height, and install
the shelves inside the cabinet with the grain
running left to right.
4. Recess all visible nail heads with a nail set, and fill
the holes with putty. Sand all surfaces, outer edges,
and corners smooth.
5. Finish the island with a light stain and apply a
nontoxic topcoat. We used a traditional American
pine finish.
H. ATTACH THE COUNTERTOP & SHELVES

1. Cut the shelves from pine panels and the supports
from 2 X 8 dimensional pine . Round the cut corners
at the long ends of each diagonal, using a jigsaw or
a sander to soften the profile of the supports.
2. Mark a line on the top edge of the back, II" in
from each end. Position the supports so they are
centered on the lines. Drill pilot holes through the
back and attach the supports with glue and 11/2"
countersunk screws driven from the inside of the
cabinet.
The back, end, divider, bottom, and shelf pieces used

in this project are constructed from 5jg" edge-glued
ponderosa pine panels, available at most building
centers. This material, available in varying dimensions
and thicknesses, is manufactured from small-width
pine glued together under pressure. The result is a
strong material that is slightly thinner than standard
dimensional plywood. It features a distinctive paneled
appearance, and since it is made entirely of one type
of wood, exposed edges do not require veneer.
136 BUILD YOUR OW N C USTOM C LO SET
Tip
I Drawer Components
ny drawer can be transformed into a custom

jewelry and notions drawer by simply lining
boxes with fabric. Small sections are perfect for
jewelry, while slightly larger sections help organize
scarves, socks, and lingerie. Not only is this level
of organization and class a luxury addition to any
closet, but it adds that final custom detail to be
proud of. For smaller boxes we recommend using
1O-ply poster board or bristol board. For large
boxes use 14-ply or 16-ply board. You can also use
purchased cardboard or wooden bandboxes.
Tools & Materials

Disposable foam
brush
Fabric glue
Spray adhesive
Mediumweight
(firmly woven)
fabrics for outer
fabric and lining
Polyester fleece
1 II -wide white tape
Artist knife
Chipboard or carboard
A ccesso ries
137
I How to Make a Tray

A
Apply spray adhesive to wrong side of fabric and fix tray.
Fold scored edges up, using a roller to ensure a straight fold

along reference line. (Inset) Tape sides together.
A. MAKE THE TRAY

1. Mark the sides of the box on outside of cardboard,
using a pencil. Score along the marked lines, using
straightedge and artist knife to cut cardboard
lightly (do not cut through). Cut out corner areas
of cardboard, using an artis t knife.
2. Fold sides, supporting cardboard on straightedge
or edge of table along scored line to keep folds
straight.
3. Tape sides together, using white tape. Construct
lid, using the same method as for the box,
except make lid 1/4" wider and longer than box
measurements.
B. APPLY LINING TO TRAY
1. Apply spray adhesive to wrong side of fabric. Fix
to the tray, wrapping I" of fabric around ends and
bottom. Miter corners on bottom of tray, and then
fix to box with fabric glue (follow manufacturer
instructions). Repeat for the remaining side piece.
2. Wrap remaining fabric to inside of tray, mitering
corners on floor of tray. Fix to tray with fabric glue,
following manufacturer instructions. Fix end and
bottom pieces by wrapping the fabric around edge
to inside. Seal raw edges of fabric with glue.
Test-fit inserts before applying line.
C. MAKE INSERTS
1. Sketch diagram showing size of sections and
placement of dividers. Mark tray measurements
on the sketch. Cut chipboard for the first divider,
Mark foldlines on both sides of divider, and then
label which direction the divider will be folded on
each line .
2. Score along marked lines, using an artist knife and
straightedge. If divider will be folded up , score
bottom of divider (if it will be folded down, score
the top).
3. Fold divider into the desired shape. Apply spray
adhesive or diluted fabric glue to wrong side of
fabric. Fix the fabric to the top of shaped divider.
Wrap fabric around edges to underside of divider.
Glue the fabric in place.
4. Glue the first divider in the tray. Measure
sections and repeat steps, checking fit before
covering with fabric.
Making a Jig for Straight Cuts

In this book we suggest using a simple right-angle jig on
several occasions. The jig ensures straight cuts.
~
Fasten cleat flush along
the short factory edge, using

glue and wood screws (driven
through countersunk pilot
holes so the screw heads are
slightly below the surface).
Make sure the cleat is straight
and perfectly flush with
base's edge.
If desired, mark the long
factory edge so you'll know

which one is your guide edge.
melamine stock. Keeping two

perpendicular factory edges intact, cut the base about
12" wide and 2" longer than the width of your shelving
stock. Cut a straight piece of 1 x 2 cleat to match width
of base.
Cut base from
3/4 "-thick
Using a Biscuit Joiner ~

For making drawers (see page 10) we recommend
using biscuits to join drawers and shelves on occasion.
A biscuit joiner provides professional application of
biscuits.This tool has a small circular blade tucked into
a housing at the front of the saw. When you press the
spring-loaded tool against the edge of a board, the
self-registering blade emerges from the housing and
engages the board edge, cutting a perfect slot.
-.
Set the height of the
fence on the biscuit

joiner to one-half of
the thickness of the
material to be joined .
Clamp the first workpiece to a flat work

Turn the blade depth
adjustment knob
to the appropriate
biscuit size for
the project.
surface, and align the registration mark on the

biscuit joiner with the cutting line. Cut the first
biscuit slot by pressing the joiner firmly into the
edge of the workpiece, keeping a firm grip on both
to avoid slipping out of alignment. Cut a slot in the
mating workpiece the same way.
A ccesso ries
139
I Resources
Specialty Hardware
BUILDEX
800-284-5339
E-Z Toggle, E-Z Ancor, drywall
anchors, and self-drilling toggle
bolts.
CALIFORNIA CLOSETS
800-274-6754
www.calclosets. com
Design consultation and custom
installation.
CLOSET MASTERS
800-548-1868
Consumer sales for Hafele products.
EASY CLOSETS
800-910-0129
www.easyclosets.com
C loset accessories, precut corner
shelves, closet kits (including
modular hardware).
HAFELE
800-4 23-3531
www.hafele.com
Closet hardware, connectors,
wall rails and rail covers, and
shelf supports for contractors.
Consumers may purchase Hafele
prod ucts at C loset Masters and
KitchenSource.com (see individual
listings above).
HILTI
800-879-8000
KwikTog (plastic) toggles, Toggler
brand toggle bolts, and other Hilti
anchors.
HOME DEPOT
800-553-3199
www.homedepot.com
Baskets, drawers, rods, closet
accessories, closet kits (including
modular hardware), melamine.
HVAC
877-711-4822
www.hvacquick.com
Ventilation fans.
IKEA
800-434-4532
www.IKEA-usa.com
Bookcase and corner bookcase
combinations, drawer chests,
wardrobe combinations, armoires,
shoe racks, shelving, clothes rails,
wire baskets, pants hangers, drawers
with dividers, valet rods, drawer
jewelry boxes, storage systems.
KITCHENSOURCE.COM
800-667-8721
Consumer sales for Hafele specialty
products and closet accessories.
MOBILEFFE
www.mobileffe.com
[email protected]
Wardrobe and walk-in closet design.
ORGANIZE-IT
800-210-7712
www.organize-it.com
C loset accessories, wire shelving,
closet kits.
POll FORM
202-554-8658
www.poliform.net
Wardrobes and walk-in dressing
room design.
SLIDING DOOR CO.

888-433-1333
www.slidingdoorco.com
Sliding (track) doors appropriate for
closet applications.
TWIN CITIES CLOSETS

612-623-0987
www. twincitiesclose ts. com
Custom design and installation
serVIces.
WOODCRAFT
www.woodcraft.com
800-535-4482
WOOD HARBOR
641-423-0444
www.woodharbor.com
Doors and cabinetry.
Photo Credits
p. 4 / photo courtesy of
California Closets
p.6 (top left) / photo courtesy of
Ikea
p. 6 (bottom left) / photo courtesy of
California C losets
p.6 (right) / photo courtesy of
Mobileffe
p.6 (right inset) / photo courtesy of
Mobileffe
p. 7 (top) / photo courtesy of Ikea
p.7 (lower left) / photo of Twin
Cities Closets by Steve Galvin
of CPi .
p. 7 (lower right) / photo courtesy of
California Closets
p.8 (top) / photo courtesy of
Mobileffe
p.8 (lower) / photo co urtesy of
Mobileffe
p. 9 (lower left) / photo by Eric
Lamph for Sliding Door Co.
p. 9 (right) / photo Beateworks Inc. /
Alamy
p. 10 (top) / photo courtesy of
Mobileffe
p.10 (lower left and right) / photos
courtesy of California Closets
p. 11 (top and bottom) / photos
courtesy of California C losets
p. 12 / photo courtesy of California
C losets
p. 13 (top left and right) / photos
courtesy of California Closets
p. 13 (lower left and right) / photos
courtesy of Organize- It
p. SO /photo courtesy of
Organize-It
California G losets
Californi a C losets
California Closets
Woodharbor
p.132 (top) /photo of Twin Cities
C losets by Steve Galvin of CPi .
p. 132 (bottom) / photo courtesy of
California Closets
Metric Conversions
converting Measurements
To Convert:
To:
Multiply by:
To Convert:
To:
Multiply by:
Inches
Millimeters
25.4
Millimeters
Inches
0.039
Inches
Centimeters
2.54
Centimeters
Inches
0.394
Feet
Meters
0.305
Meters
Feet
3.28
Yards
Meters
0.914
Meters
Yards
1.09
Square inches
Square centimeters
6.45
Square centimeters
Square inc hes
0.155
Square feet
Square meters
0.093
Square meters
Square feet
10.8
Square yards
Square meters
0.836
Square meters
Square yards
1.2
Cubic inches
Cubic centimeters
16.4
Cubic centimeters
Cubic inches
0.061
Cubic feet
Cubic meters
0.0283
Cubic meters
Cubic feet
35 .3
Cubic yards
Cubic meters
0.765
Cubic meters
Cubic yards
1.31
Ounces
Milliliters
30.0
Milliliters
Ounces
.033
Pints (U.S)
Liters
0.473 (Imp. 0568)
Liters
Pints (U.S.)
2.114 (Imp. 176)
Quarts (U.S.)
Liters
0.946 (Imp. 1.136)
Liters
Quarts (U.S.)
1.057 (Imp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.)
Liters
3.785 (Imp. 4.546)
Liters
Gallons (U.S.)
0.264 (Imp. 0.22)
Ounces
Grams
28.4
Grams
Ounces
0.035
Pounds
Kilograms
0.454
Kilograms
Pounds
2.2
Lumber Dimensions
Nominal - U.S.
Liquid Measurement Equivalents
Actual - U.S.
METRIC
1x 2
3/4 X 11/2"
19 x 38 mm
1x 3
19
1x 4
3/4 x 21/2"
3/4 X 3112"
19 x 89 mm
1x 5
3/4 x 41/2"
19 x 114 mm
1x 6
3/4 x 51/2"
19 x 140 mm
1x 7
19 x 159 mm
1x 8
3/4 x 61/4"
3/4 X 71;4"
1 x 10
3/4 X 9114"
19 x 235 mm
1 x 12
3/4 x 11 1,4"
19 x 286 mm
1114X4
1 x 31/2"
25 x 89 mm
1114X6
1 x 51/2"
25 x 140 mm
1114X8
1 x 71/4"
25 x 184 mm
1114X 10
1 x 91,4"
25 x 235 mm
1114X 12
1 x 11 1/4"
25 x 286 mm
1112X4
2x4
1114 x 31/2"
1114 x 51/2"
1114 x 71/4"
1114 x 91/4"
1114 x 11 114"
1112 x 31/2"
2x6
11/2 x 51/2"
2x8
2 x 12
1112 x 71/4"
1112 X 91,4"
1112 x 11 1/4"
3x6
21/2 x 51/2"
4x4
3112 x 31/2"
3112 x 51/2"
1112X6
1112X8
1112X 10
1112X 12
2 x 10
4x6
64 mm
19 x 184 mm
1 Pint
1 Quart
1 Gallon
= 16 Fluid Ounces
= 32 Fluid Ounces
= 128 Fluid Ounces
= 2 Cups
= 2 Pints
= 4 Quarts
Converting Temperatures
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by
following this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit
temperature reading. Then, multiply that number by 519.
For example, 77F - 32 = 45. 45 x 5Al = 25C .
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit , multiply the
Celsius temperature reading by 9;5. Then , add 32. For example ,
25C x 9;5 = 45 . 45 + 32 = 77F.
32 x 89 mm
32
140 mm
FAHRENHEIT
CELSIUS
32 x 184 mm
32
32
38
38
38
38
38
64
x 235 mm
x 286 mm
x 89 mm
x 140 mm
x 184 mm
x 235 mm
x 286 mm
x 140 mm
89 x 89 mm
55
50
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
15
10
5
.....-
Freezing ---I....
0
_5
_10
-w
89 x 140 mm
Metric Conversions
141
I Index
A
Accessories, installing
cabinet doors , 11 3-114
closet doors
bifold, 126-127
framing, 116
French, 120- 121
overview of, 11 5
pocket, 122- 125
pre hung, 117- 119
closet islands, 132-136
custom drawers , 111- 112
drawer components, 137-138
gliding baskets, 129
rods, 104-105
shoe cubbies, 106- 108
tie and belt racks, 109-110
ventilation systems, 128
vertical spacers, 130-13 1
Accessories, preassembled, 19
Closet organizers,
installing bas ic, 68
Closets, overview of, 16
Clothing inve ntory, taking, 30-31
Contemporary systems,
ideas for, 8-9, 10
Corner units
with co nn ector top shelf, 51
Aoor-based , 54
joining units in corners, 52-53
making outside, 62-63
options, 50
wall-hung corner shelf units
making corner unit
without wall rail for, 61
makin g corner unit with
wall ra il fo r, 56-60
options, 54-55
Crown molding, 87
Cut lists, 33
Cuts
making circular, 95
maki ng straight with jig, 139
D
B
Baseboards, removing, 26
Baskets
design tips for, 34
ideas for, 12, 19
installing gliding, 129
Belt racks , making, 109-110
Bifold doors
ideas for, 8
installing, 126-1 27
overview of, 115
Biscuit joiners , using, 139
Budget clos ets , 13
Building codes, 97
Built-in systems
advantages, 27
disadvantages , 27
installing, 88-91
Butt joints , 45
C
Cabinet doors , maki ng, 113- 114
Ca ms, 22
Children's closets, 12, 13
Choosing closet system, 27
Circular cuts, makin g, 95
Cleats, 45
C loset islands, buildin g, 132-136
Dado joints, 45
Design
accessory considerations, 31
diagramming, 32
taking inve ntory, 30-3 1
Doors
bifold
ideas for, 8
installing, 126- 127
framing, 11 6
French, installin g, 120- 121
ideas for, 8- 9
making ca binet, 113- 114
overview of installing, 115
pocket, installing, 122-125
pre hung, installing, 117-119
sliding, 8
standard bypass sizes, 115
Double hangin g,S
Drawers
makin g co mpon ents, 13 7-138
making custom, 111-112
preassembled, 19, 34, III
usin g bi sc uit joiner, 139
E
Entryway closets, designing, 35
Euro-design systems, 10
F
Fas teners
specialty, 22
standard, 21
for wire shelving, 22
Fixed shelves
installing, 47, 49
in modular systems, 74
removing, 4 3
F loor-based systems
advantages, 27, 82
combining with wall-hung
systems, 6
disadvantages, 27
ideas for, 7
installing, 84-86
floor plan, 83
moldings , 82, 87
removing, 43
Floor plans
for Aoor-based system, 83
making, 32
for wall-hung system, 75
Food closets, 10
French doors , installing, 120-121
H
Hardware
specialty, 22
standard, 21
for wire shelving, 22
Holes in walls, repairin g, 41-42
Home offices, ideas for, 11
Inventory of clothing, 30-31
J
Ji gs for straight cuts, makin g, 139
K
KDs (knock-down fittings), 22 , 44
L
L-brackets, 45
Lighting, 11 , 97
Locking cams, 22
Lumber dimensions , metric
conversions, 141
M
Materials
choosing, 17-19
de termining needs
and cut lists, 33
metric conversion
chart for, 141
MDF board, 17
MDF sheets, 18
Measuring
design tips, 32
height, 33
metric conversions, 141
Melamine, 17
Metal anchors,
using self-drilling, 23
Metal shelves, installing, 48
Metal standards for wire
shelving, 67
Modular systems
advantages of, 5
construction, 16
fixed shelves in, 74
hardware and fasteners for, 22
installing shelves, 46-47
Moldings
installing, 82, 87
removing, 26, 43
types, 18
N
Nailer me thod installation
system, 74, 80-81
Narrow walk-in closet
design tips, 32
New closets
building reach-in, 97-101
building walk-in, 92-96
o
Outside corner units,
making, 62-63
Ponderosa pine panels, 136

Prehungdoors, 115, 117-119
Trays for drawers, making, 138

Trims, 18
Triple-hanging, 12
Tunnel closets, designing, 35
R
Reach-in closets
building new, 97-101
design tips, 32
ideas for, 7, 12
Removal of old closet material
floor-based systems, 43
overview of, 38
repairing large holes
in wall, 42
repairing small holes in wall, 41
wall-hung units, 40
wire shelving, 39
Rods, installing, 104-105
Rollout baskets, 12
S
Sections
with baskets or preassembled
drawers , 34
defined, 16
Self-drilling metal anchors,
using, 23
Shelf pegs/pins, 45
Shelves
adding, 44- 49
installing fixed modular, 47
installing fixed with cleats, 49
installing metal, 48
installing modular, 46-47
removing fixed, 43
Shelving organizers,
making basic, 70-71
Shoe cubbies
building, 106-108
ideas for, 13
Sliding doors, ideas for, 8
Straight cuts, making jig for, 139
Studs, finding, 26
Surveying closet space, 24- 25
U
Units, defined, 16
V
Ventilation systems, installing, 128
Vertical spacers,
installing, 130-131
W
Walk-in closets
building new, 92-96
designing small, 34
design tips for narrow, 32
minimum dimensions for, 93
Wall-hung systems
advantages, 27, 74
combining with floor-based
systems, 6
corner unit options, 54-55
disadvantages, 27
floor plan, 75
ideas for, 7
installing
overview of, 74-75
rail method, 74, 76-79
making corner units without
wall rail for, 61
making corner unit with wall
rail for, 56-60
modular hanging rail
systems, 16
removing, 40
Wire sh elving
installing, 64-67
overview of, 18
removing, 39
Wood nailer installation
system, 74, 80-81
p
Pantries, 10
Planning
identifying obstructions, 26
surveying space, 24-25
Plywood, 17-18
Pocket doors
installing, 122-125
overview of, 11 5
T
Tie racks, making, 109-110
Toe-kick molding, 82
Toggler bolts, using, 23
Tools, 20
Tracks, 45
Traditional closets
construction, 16
drawbacks, 5
Index
143

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What are some of the different types of closet systems discussed?

What are some of the different types of closet systems discussed?

What are some tips provided for planning a closet?

What are some tips provided for planning a closet?

DESIGNING, BUILDING & INSTALLING CUSTOM CLOSET SYSTEMS

BUILD YOUR OWN

Designing, Building &Installing Custom Closet Systems

Publisher: Brya n Trandem

Authors: Gill ett Cole, Jim Meyers

BUILD YOU ROWN CUSTOM CLOSET

Considering Closets . . ...... 5

Basics ..... . ........... 37

Inspiration . . . ... .... ..... 6

Tea ring Out Old Closet Material ... . 38

Drawers . . .... . . . . . . . . ..... ... 111

Adding Shelves .. . ..... . ... . . .. . 44

Without Face Frames ..... . .... 113

Installing Corner Units .. .. .... . .. . 50

Closet Overview . ........ .. .... . . . 16

ConnectorTop Shelf . . ... . .... . 51

Closet Doors .. .. .. . . .. . .. . ... .. 115

Materials . .... . ... . ..... . ...... . 17

Corner Shelf Units .... . .. ... .. . 55

prehung Doors .. . . .. ..... .... 117

Trim & Molding . . . . .......... .. .. . 18

Outside Corner Units . ... . .. . . . . 62

French Doors . . .............. 120

Installing Wire Shelving . .. ..... . . . 64

Pocket Doors . .. . . ... . . .. . .. . 123

Tools, Hardware & Fasteners . . . .. . . . 20

Bifold Doors .. . ......... .. .. . 126

Custom Installations .... ..... 73

Survey the Closet Space .. . ....... . 24

Installing a Floor-based Unit ...... . 82

Installing a Built-in organizer .. . .. . 88

Choose a Closet System ... . . . .. .. . 27

New Closets .. .. .. .... .. .. . .. . .. 92

Take Inventory . . ..... . .. ... . .. .. . 30

Baskets . ... . .. . .. . . . ....... . . . 129

Wire Shelving Hardware

Ventilation Systems . . ....... .... 128

Closet Island .. .. .. . . .. . . . . ... .. 132

Resources ............. 140

Metric Conversions ......... 141

Building a Reach-in Closet . .. . .. . 97

Adding Accessories ......... 103

Shoe Cubby .......... . ...... . . 106

Sample Designs . ........ .. ...... . 34

Tie & Belt Rack . . .... .. . . . ... ... 109

Index .................. .............. 142

ife is ever changing. Wouldn't it be nice if your closet

nowing exactly what you want to store in your

A creative way to maximize your closet space using both

Here's a nice illustration of how closet accessories are

a wall-hung and floor-based system. The floor-based system

becoming more innovative as the custom closet industry

6 BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLOSET

For those who truly want the best in function, materials,

This beautiful maple wall-hung closet system makes

and design, this closet is loaded! With features such as