Aim

AIM
To study the physical properties of a given swatch i.e fibre content, fabric weight
(GSM), yarn count(EPI and PPI, fibre crimp percentage(warp and weft) , direction of
yarn twist, fabric weave.
APPARATUS REQUIRED
Pick glass
Measuring scale
GSM Testing machine
Burner / lighter
Scissors
THEORY
The testing of finished fabrics is considered to be vital for the textile industry for
various reasons as the dimension and construction properties of textile fabrics are
important for quality control as well as end use determinants. The following are
some important properties of fabric which are important to assess:
1) Fibre content
Burn test is the most accepted method for identifying the true nature of any fabric. This test is carried
out to know whether a fabric is made up of a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and
man made fibers.
We have already discussed the reactions of different types of fibres to burning test, and accordingly we
now we will assess the observations and identifythe fibre contents.
2) Direction of yarn twist

Twist is the spiral arrangement of the fibres around the axis of the yarn. The twist binds the
fibres together and also contributes to the strength of the yarn.
A single yarn has S twist if, when it is held in the vertical position, the fibres inclined to the axis
of the yarn conform in the direction of the slope to the central portion of the letter S. Similarly the
yarn has Z twist if the fibres inclined to the axis of yarn conform in the direction of slope to the
central portion of the letter Z.
3) Type of weave
The fabric weave or design is the manner in which the warp and weft are interlaced. The pattern or
repeat is the smallest unit of the weave which when repeated will produce the design required in the
fabric. There are many ways of representing a weave, a most familiar method being to use square
design paper.
Twill weave, the second basic weave is characterized by diagonal lines running at angles varying
between 15 and 75 degrees. A Twill Weave is denoted by using numbers above and below a line
( such as 2/1 Twill which may be interpreted as two up one down). There are sever types of basic
twill weaves, such as
(a).1/2 Twill (b).2/1 Twill (c).2/2 Twill. (d).2/3 Twill, (e).3/2 (f) 3/3 Twill, (g).4/4 Twill Etc.
4) Yarn count
EPI
It is a measure of thread density. The normal method used to determine thread

density is to use a pick glass.
Number of yarns in warp direction is called epi (ends per inch) and it affects the
compactness of the fabric.
Ends per inch/inched per repeat = Avg. ends per inch
PPI
Number of yarns in weft wise direction is called ppi (picks per inch)
A swatch is cut and then the fabric is laid down and a pick glass is put on the
fabric to identify the number of picks per inch and ends per inch.
Picks per inch/inched per repeat = Avg. picks per inch
5) Fibre weight (GSM)
GSM means grams per square meter. It is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance. The
heavier the weight, generally the thicker the fabric will be.
Fabric weight (observed value) *100 = GSM

Fabric is cut into 10*10 swatch and kept on the electric weight to measure the
weight and to obtain the GSM it is multiplied by 100.
6) Fibre crimp percentage
Crimp is expressed numerically a sthe number of waves per unit length or the
difference between the distance between 2 points on the fibre when it is relaxed
and when it is straightened under suitable tension expressed as the % of the
relaxed distance.
Crimp% = straightened length- original length/original length * 100
PROCEDURE
1) Take out a strand of yarn from the given swatch and burn it with a help of a
burner and observe how it reacts to burning and compare it to the table given
earlier and assess the fiber content.
2) Take a strand of yarn and hold it from one hand and start to rotate it in the
direction where it starts untwisting and then assess the yarn twist
3) Cut a swatch of 10*10 inches and observe the weave pattern
4) Cut a swatch of 6*6 inches and put it under pick glass and assess the ends
per inch and picks per inch.
5) Cut a swatch and and put it on GSM testing balance and multiply it with 100
and the obtained value is GSM
6) For crimp percentage, a strand is taken and measured in relaxed form. Now
straighten it under suitable conditions (applying water) and measure it.
OBSERVATIONS
1) Fibre content
Following are the observations of burning test :
Observation 1
Observation 2
Observation 3
Inference
2) Direction of yarn twist
As we try to untwist the strand of yarn, following are the observations :
Observation 1
Observation 2
Observation 3
Inference
3) Type of weave diagrammatic representation
4) EPI and PPI

After observing the swatch under pick glass, following observations have been
made:
EPI
Observation 1
Observation 2
Observation 3
Inference =
PPI
Observation 1
Observation 2
Observation 3
Inference
5) GSM
6)Crimp%
Warp and weft

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2) Direction of yarn twist

It is a measure of thread density. The normal method used to determine thread

Fabric weight (observed value) *100 = GSM

4) EPI and PPI

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