TAKING THE MYSTERY OUT OF SETTING UP YOUR DRUM KIT

Introduction
Setting up your drum set for the first time is exciting and fun. It's not
rocket science, but if you have a little snag along the way, we've created
this section to help you out. There is no right or wrong concerning the
details of setting up your new drum set, however this section will give you
the basics of setting up a standard drum set, which will be a great place to
start. We hope this will be helpful to you. Enjoy!

A standard drum set consists of five drums:

12" and 13" mounted toms (also known as
rack toms, tom toms, or just toms), 16" floor
tom, 22" bass drum, and a 14" snare drum.
Another typical drum set also consists of five
drums, but has a different tom set up: 10"
and 12" mounted toms, 14" hanging tom (a
tom hanging on a cymbal stand by the use of
a clamp and tom holder), 22" bass drum, and
a 14" snare drum.

BEFORE WE START
The bass drum and floor tom need to be assembled. First, spread out all
your parts. Next, obtain a drum key (a special tool used to adjust drum
hardware and tune drum heads. All of our drum set packages include a
drum key). Make sure you have everything you need: shells, heads, rims
and hoops, tension rods, and bass drum claws. Choose a clean open area to
assemble your kit, and you'll be ready to go.

Step 1: Floor Tom Assembly

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Usually, it doesn't matter which head you put on which side, but some
factories give you two distinctly different heads. You can usually tell which
one goes on top (the batter head), but if you can't tell it doesn't matter.

Stand the floor tom shell vertically with the leg brackets toward the floor.
Place the drum head you've selected as the top head onto the top bearing
edge as shown above.

Fit the rim onto the head so it surrounds the metal ring around the
head. Align the ears (the flanges with holes) over the lugs as shown.

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Insert the tension rods through the holes in the ears and thread them into
the swivel nuts. Finger tighten the rods for now; you can tune them later
(see section on Tuning).

Turn the drum over and do the other side. When done, insert the floor tom
legs into the leg brackets and secure them about halfway up.

Step 2: Bass Drum Assembly

The bass drum is assembled
similarly to the floor tom. Lay
the bass drum down so that the
bass bracket and spurs are
closest to the top. Place the
front head, usually a black
head, onto the front bearing
edge as shown at left.

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Next, place the bass drum hoop onto the ring surrounding the head.

Attach the claws onto the hoop and thread the tension rods into the swivel
nuts in each lug. Finger tighten the rods for now. Turn the drum over and
do the other side with the remaining bass drum head.

Step 3: Bass Drum Set Up

Set the spurs toward the

front of the bass drum as
shown at left.

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Next, extend the spur rods

so that they are equal in
length and the front of the
bass drum is about an inch
off the floor.

Note: Once set, you don't

have to adjust the length of
the spur rods again (unless
you want to). To fold the
legs, face the spurs
backwards and parallel to the
tension lugs.

You usually have a choice of rubber

or spike tips to help keep the bass
drum from sliding. To expose the
spikes, loosen the locking nut (the
round metal nut with knurled edges)
and turn it and the rubber tip
clockwise. Counter-turn the locking
nut and rubber tip against each other
to prevent the rubber tip from
loosening.

Caution: For safety, keep the spikes covered by the rubber tips when
transporting the bass drum.
Warning: The spike tips can cause damage to floor surfaces. When using
the spike tip option, use a rug or carpet of sufficient thickness to protect
the floor.

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Step 4: Bass Drum Pedal, Attachment And Adjustment

The pedal is shipped without the spring and beater attached.

To attach the spring, pull the triangle - with the spring attached - over and
into the notch in the cam roller.

Insert the beater shaft into the beater link and tighten the key bolt with
your drum key. For now, set the beater so that about 1/4" of the beater
shaft is visible at the bottom of the beater link. By moving the beater up or
down in minute increments, you can fine-tune the feel of the pedal to your
preference.

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If your bass drum has metal hoops, adhere the self-stick rubber pad into
the channel of the back hoop where the pedal attaches.

Lift the backside of the bass

drum and slide the pedal
onto the bass drum hoop. If
necessary, loosen the T-bolt
on the hoop clamp to widen
the opening. Center the pedal
so that it sits squarely on the
floor. Tighten the hoop clamp
securely.

Tighten clockwise to clamp the pedal to the bass drum hoop.

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Loosen the top lock nut (A) and adjust the spring tension nut (B) until the
spring tension feels comfortable to you. Tighten nut (A) to keep this
setting.

Step 5: Tom Holders: Attachment And Adjustment

Secure the tom holders

into the bass bracket as
shown at left.

Set the short arms at approximately 90

to the long arms as shown at left.

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The drum set we're using is a Pearl Export Select. The Export Select
mounted toms feature the I.S.S. (Integrated Suspension System) for
improved resonance and sustain. To attach the I.S.S., hook the claws of the
I.S.S. bracket onto the top hoop of each tom.
If you don't have I.S.S. mounts, skip down to the actual attachment of the
tom to the tom arm. A standard tom mount, which is attached to the tom
shell itself, will work the same way except the tom arm goes through the
shell.

Tighten the two outside claws then the center claw.

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Insert the tom holder arm into the tom bracket as shown. If necessary,
loosen the wing nut on the tom bracket to allow the tom arm to fit. Tighten
the wing nut on the tom bracket to secure the tom. Repeat with the other
tom.

Each tom holder has two Stop-Locks: one each on the long and short arms.
The photo above shows the Stop-Lock fitted to the tom bracket. When
properly attached, the Stop-Lock fits flush against and into the slot in the
bracket.
For now, just get close on the height, on the tilt, and on the closeness of
the tomsyou'll fine-adjust these later.
Note: Most drummers usually set up the smaller of the mounted toms to
the left, if you're right-handed.

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Step 6: Snare Stand Assembly And Adjustment

The snare stand is shipped in two parts: the base and basket section.
To assemble the base, open the legs to form a stable tripod and tighten the
wing bolt as shown above.

Unfold the basket section as

shown at left.

Insert the post of the basket

into the base as shown (at left)
set the height about halfway.

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Open the arms of the basket and adjust the butterfly nut (if necessary) to
accommodate the snare drum. Place the snare drum into the basket.

Tighten the butterfly nut as shown until the snare drum is snug.
Note: Do not overtighten as overtightening can choke the sound or cause
damage to the snare drum.

Step 7: Cymbal Stand Assembly

The cymbal stand is shipped in three parts:

the base, middle, and top
sections.
Extend the legs of the base to form a stable

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Insert the middle tube into the

base and secure.

Insert the top tube into the

middle tube and secure. Set
each tube about halfway up
for now.

Set the cymbal tilter vertically as

shown at left.

Remove the wing nut

and the upper of the
two felt washers from
the tilter post.

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Slip the tilter post through

the hole in the bell of the
cymbal as shown and rest
the cymbal on the bottom
felt washer.

Replace the felt washer and wing nut as shown. Allow the cymbal to move
freely for best sound. Adjust the angle of the cymbal tilter to your
preference.

Many sets include a boom cymbal stand. Assemble the boom stand in the
same manner as the cymbal stand. The boom arm can be positioned to
virtually any angle for perfect cymbal placement. The boom arm is
equipped with a Stop-Lock to prevent slippage and to allow quick and
repeatable set-ups.

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Step 8: Hi-Hat Stand Assembly

The hi-hat is shipped in three parts: the base, upper tube, and pull rod with
clutch.

To assemble the base, first

remove the rubber band from the
radius rods as shown at left.

Then insert the bent ends into the holes in the hi-hat frame.

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Extend the legs to form a stable

tripod with the hi-hat frame just
touching the floor - the hi-hat should
feel solid without rocking.

Thread the pull rod securely

into the receiver in the base
section of the hi-hat stand.

Remove the clutch and

slide the upper tube over
the pull rod and into the
base. Set the upper tube
about halfway up.

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Step 9: Hi-Hat Cymbal Attachment And Adjustment

Insert the pull rod through the hole in the heavier of the two hi-hat
cymbals (sometimes marked: Bottom). Rest the cymbal, bell side down, on
the felt washer on the seat cup.

Remove the metal lock nut and one of the felt washers from the clutch.

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Slip the clutch through the hole in the top cymbal.

Replace the felt washer and

metal lock nut.
Note: If you have difficulty
attaching the lock nut, flip it
over and try againit
threads only from one side.

Slip the clutch (with the top cymbal attached) onto the pull rod.

Space the cymbals about an inch aparttighten the wing screw securely.
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The clutch features two round lock nuts that adjust the amount of "play" of
the top cymbal. To adjust, loosen the top lock nut and adjust the bottom
lock nut until the desired "play" is achieved. Counter-turn the lock nuts to
secure this setting.

In the event that the cymbals "air-lock" while playing, an adjustment

screw under the bottom cymbal is provided. "Air-lock" happens when the
cymbals trap air inside...you'll know when this happensthe cymbals don't
make any sound. To eliminate "air-lock" simply tilt the bottom cymbal with
the adjustment screw and you're back in business.
Adjust the spring tension
of the hi-hat to your
preference. On most drum
sets, this is done by a
slider on the base section.
Note: some hi-hat stands
are not adjustable.

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The legs on your hi-hat stand can be rotated to accommodate double

pedals as shown above. Note: Not all hi-hats have swivel legs.

Step 10: The Completed Drum Set

Arrange your set to look like the completed
set shown at left.
Note: If you're left handed, reverse the
drums from right to left.
You will need cymbals with your new drum
set. If your set came with a hi- hat stand
and two cymbal stands, the most common
configuration of cymbals for this hardware
set up is hi hat cymbals, crash cymbal and
ride cymbal. The hi-hat cymbals go on the
hi-hat stand, the crash cymbal goes on one
of the cymbal stands and the ride cymbal
goes on the other.

If your set came with a hi-hat stand and one cymbal stand, the most
common configuration of cymbals for this hardware set up is hi hat
cymbals and crash-ride cymbal. The hi hat cymbals go on the hi-hat stand
and the crash-ride cymbal goes on the cymbal stand.
The crash-ride cymbal doubles as a crash cymbal or a ride cymbal until you
can get another cymbal stand and get separate crash and ride cymbals.
(See the cymbals pages for more descriptions and a better understanding
of cymbal set-ups).
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If you don't already own a drum throne, purchase one. You'll be spending
hours at your set so select a throne that is sturdy and comfortable. Set the
height of the throne so that it carries most of your weight. This will make
you "light" on your feet so you can play your pedals with maximum speed
and agility. Position the throne so you can reach the bass pedal
comfortably. (See the hardware page for information on thrones).
Place the snare drum in front of you and adjust the height to a comfortable
level. You can play the snare drum tilted (as shown above) or flat.
Experiment with different tilt positions to discover which works best for
you.
Position the hi-hat next to the snare drum within easy reach of your other
foot. Your legs should feel relaxed, not too close and not too far apart.
Most of all, you should feel balanced. Adjust the height of the hi-hat
cymbals so that they can be reached comfortably.

Adjust the height, tilt, and closeness of the 12" tom so that it butts up
against (but doesn't touch) the snare drum. Position the 13" tom beside
the 12" tom. Set the floor tom level to or slightly lower than the snare
drum. Arrange the toms compactly so that you can move from drum to
drum quickly and easily. When everything is comfortably positioned,
tighten all Stop-Locks securely.
Position your cymbals where they can be reached easily and don't get in
the way of your drums.
Note: The above instructions are only suggestions. Again, there's no right
or wrong way to set up drums...what matters is how the drums are set for
you!

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