Red 1

Red 2

0.48 Potassium perchlorate

0.24 Potassium perchlorate

0.17 Strontium carbonate

0.24 Strontium nitrate

0.11 Red gum

0.11 Strontium carbonate

0.10 Parlon

0.10 Red gum

0.11 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.12 Parlon

0.04 Dextrin

0.15 Magnalium, 230-mesh

1.01 Total

0.04 Dextrin
1.00 Total

Green 1

Green 2

0.24 Potassium perchlorate

0.18 Potassium perchlorate

0.24 Barium nitrate

0.45 Barium nitrate

0.11 Barium carbonate

0.10 Red gum

0.09 Red gum

0.09 Parlon

0.12 Parlon

0.14 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.15 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.04 Dextrin

0.04 Dextrin

1.00 Total

0.99 Total

Blue 1
0.48 Potassium perchlorate
0.18 Copper oxide
0.08 Red gum
0.12 Parlon
0.04 Hexamine
0.04 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
0.98 Total

Lemon Yellow (Green +6% cryolite

or sodium oxalate)
0.26 Potassium perchlorate
0.26 Barium nitrate
0.07 Cryolite or sodium oxalate
0.10 Red gum
0.16 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.13 Parlon
0.04 Dextrin
1.02 Total

Blue 2
0.55 Potassium perchlorate
0.07 Copper oxide
0.07 Copper powder
0.09 Red gum
0.09 Parlon
0.04 Hexamine
0.04 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
0.99 Total

Orange 2
Orange 1

0.48 Potassium perchlorate

Red #2 +5% Cryolite or sodium

oxalate

0.12 Strontium carbonate

1.05 Total

0.05 Cryolite or sodium oxalate

0.11 Red gum
0.10 Parlon
0.11 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
1.01 Total

Turquoise
0.27 Potassium perchlorate
0.27 Barium nitrate
0.06 0.09 Copper oxide
0.10 Red gum
0.13 Parlon
0.13 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
1.00 1.03 Total

Fuschia 2
Fuschia 1

0.27 Potassium perchlorate

0.48 Potassium perchlorate

0.27 Strontium nitrate

0.07 Copper oxide

0.09 Copper oxide

0.11 Strontium carbonate

0.10 Red gum

0.10 Red gum

0.13 Parlon

0.12 Parlon

0.10 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.08 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.04 Dextrin

0.04 Dextrin

1.00 Total

1.00 Total

Important: The red gum must be

a fine powder.
Violet or Purple
Lime Green
Green composition +2% cryolite or
sodium oxalate

0.48 Potassium perchlorate

0.12 Copper oxide
0.06 Strontium carbonate
0.09 Red gum
0.12 Parlon
0.06 Magnalium, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
0.97 Total

Brilliant White 2
Brilliant White 1

0.54 Potassium perchlorate

0.54 Potassium perchlorate

0.09 Red gum

0.09 Red gum

0.17 Parlon

0.085 PVC

0.15 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.23 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.04 Dextrin

0.04 Dextrin

0.99 Total

0.985 Total

Brilliant White
0.43 Potassium perchlorate
0.19 Barium nitrate
0.12 Red gum
0.22 Aluminum dark flake, 2
micron
0.04 Dextrin
0.01 Boric acid
1.01 Total

Note: If a white-spark or yellowish-white-spark tail effect is desired, add

between 7% and 12% (which will determine the length of the tail) Titanium
or Ferro-Titanium, 200-300 micron (50-70 mesh). If smaller metal particles
are used, less than 150 micron (100-mesh), the color will be whitened or
yellowed, spoiling it.
Note: For microstars in comets, the same color formulae are to be used,
augmented if necessary with magnalium to accelerate their combustion,
depending on the size of the comet or microstar. For a purer color, it
suffices to replace the magnalium with magnesium of 74 microns (200mesh) particle size (coated with stearine), using acetone as the solvent,
and eliminating the dextrin. (Use no water with magnesium.)
It is best to avoid the use of Potassium Dichromate, a cancer-causing
chemical, when coating magnesium.

Spark-Effect Stars

Willow

Kamuro

0.29 Potassium nitrate

0.29 Potassium nitrate

0.05 Sulfur

0.05 Sulfur

0.41 Pine charcoal

0.41 Pine charcoal

0.07 Dextrin

0.12 to 0.18 Titanium, 0-250

micron (60 mesh and finer), which
will determine the density of the
sparks

0.82 Total

0.07 Dextrin
0.94 to 1.00 Total

Chrysanthemum
0.52 Potassium nitrate
0.07 Sulfur
0.36 Pine charcoal
0.05 Dextrin
1.00 Total
Note: Charcoal is Pine (Nitroparis), and must be ballmilled to airfloat. If
Oak, or other hardwood, charcoal is used, the star burnrate will be slower,
and the stars will fall for a longer time. Screen mix the composition several
times until it is completely homogeneous.
Finish (prime) with screen-mixed black powder made with Vine or Light
Poplar charcoal. (Never finish (Prime) with fast black powder or ball milled
black powder.)

White/Silver Willow

White/Silver Kamuro

0.35 Potassium perchlorate

0.60 Potassium nitrate

0.15 Barium nitrate

0.06 Charcoal

0.15 Aluminum, dark

0.14 Sulfur

0.10 Aluminum, atomized, 100

micron, 140-mesh

0.14 Titanium, 250micron, 60mesh

0.10 to 0.15 (depending on the

burn duration desired) Aluminum,
70-mesh

0.05 Dextrin
0.99 Total

0.09 Red gum

0.04 Dextrin
0.01 Boric acid
1.00 to 1.05 Total

White/Silver Palm
0.90 Black powder
0.10 Titanium, 300-400 micron, 40-50 mesh
0.05 Dextrin
1.05 Total
(Suitable for use in Farfalle)

Note: The silver/white-willow is difficult to ignite, and should be primed well.

Adding 7-8% 100-micron aluminum (140-mesh) to the prime can improve

its effectiveness. A step prime of 50:50 mix of black-powder prime and star
comp, followed by BP prime can also be effective. Use of a hot igniter
prime can be effective.

White Pearl

Red Pearl

0.50 Potassium perchlorate

0.15 Potassium perchlorate

0.10 Red gum

0.35 Strontium nitrate

0.15 Magnalium, 230-mesh

0.05 Strontium carbonate

0.15 - 0.20 Aluminum, 70-mesh

(amount will determine tail length)

0.07 Red gum

0.90 0.95 Total

Green Pearl
0.15 Potassium perchlorate
0.35 Barium nitrate

0.06 Parlon
0.07 Magnesium, treated, 200mesh
0.15 0.20 Aluminum, 70-mesh
(amount will determine tail length)
0.90 0.95 Total

0.07 Red gum

0.06 Parlon
0.07 Magnesium, treated, 200mesh
0.15 0.20 Aluminum, 70-mesh
(amount will determine tail length)
Note: Can be difficult to ignite, and should be primed well. Adding 7-8%
100-micron aluminum (140-mesh) to the prime can improve its
effectiveness. A step prime of 50:50 mix of black-powder prime and star

comp, followed by BP prime can also be effective. Use of a hot igniter

prime can also be useful.
Treat magnesium with stearin. The red and green pearl compositions
should not be bound with water/dextrin, but with acetone solvent binding
with the parlon.

Gold Glitter
0.68 Black powder (with pine or
grapevine charcoal)
0.09 Sodium oxalate
0.09 Aluminum, atomized,
100micron, 140-mesh
0.10 Antimony trisulfide
0.04 Dextrin
1.00 Total

Glitter Blancoamari (White?)

0.43 Potassium nitrate
0.13 Barium nitrate
0.10 Sulfur
0.10 Charcoal, airfloat, pine or
grapevine
0.08 Red iron oxide
0.13 Aluminum, atomized, 100
micron, 140-mesh

0.04 Dextrin

Silver/white Glitter
0.35 Potassium nitrate
0.16 Barium nitrate
0.09 Sulfur
0.09 Charcoal, airfloat, pine or
grapevine
0.13 Antimony trisulfide
0.10 Aluminum, atomized,
100micron, 140-mesh
0.07 Dextrin
0.99 Total

Note: prime with BP prime (75-18-10) made with hot charcoal (willow,
maple, balsa, etc.) If used in a fountain, the nozzle aperture may need to
be enlarged due to dross buildup, and the BP-base should be hot and fast.
Good for comets.

White Strobe
0.52 Barium nitrate
0.04 Potassium nitrate
0.26 Sulfur
0.14 Magnalium, 63 micron, 230-mesh
0.04 Dextrin
1.00 Total

First Prime Layer, Brilliant White

Second Prime Layer, 50:50 Brilliant-White:Black-Powder-Prime

Note: These stars are difficult to light. A good first layer of the Brilliant White
composition, followed by a layer of 50:50 Brilliant-white:BP-prime will
ensure ignition, especially if the shell burst is not a hard one. Mild shell
bursts are preferred if using these stars. This is a good white strobe star,
with a flash rate of about 1.5 Hertz (flashes per second).

Crackle (1.5mm 2mm, 1/16

3/32)

Crackle Prime (first layer, 1mm,

1/32+)
0.75 BP prime

0.70 Red Lead Tetraoxide

0.125 Parlon

0.15 Copper oxide

0.083 Black Iron Oxide

0.19 Magnalium, 63 micron, 230mesh

0.05 Red gum

0.04 Aluminum, dark

10% Nitrocellulose lacquer

Crackle Prime (second layer, 1.5mm, 1/16)

Black Powder +7% Red gum

Note: If magnalium finer, or more coarse, than 63 micron (230-mesh) is

used, the delay to crackle-explosion will be reduced or enlarged, so that
delay time can be adjusted that way.
Apply the prime layers using 50:50 alcohol:acetone.
The first layer of prime creates a glowing slag layer which surrounds and
sticks to the crackle, igniting it well. 250-micron (60-mesh) titanium may be
added to this prime layer, so that the titanium will be ignited and projected
when the crackle microstar explodes, creating the crackling-flower effect.

Explosives

Burst charge

Flash Thunder

0.35 Potassium perchlorate

0.70 Potassium perchlorate

0.35 Potassium nitrate

0.30 Aluminum, dark

0.30 Aluminum, dark

Lift powder
0.75 Potassium nitrate
0.15 Sulfur
0.18 Charcoal, airfloat, Poplar
1.08 Total

Note: The Burst Charge is only used alone in rocket headings or small
shells. In larger shells, it is used as a booster on BP-coated rice hulls, or
similar carrier. It is also possible to use the flash powder as such a booster,
dialing-in the amount to achieve the shell burst desired.

Technique for Making Color Stars

Black-powder prime alone would not ensure good star ignition from a hardbreaking shell. The potassium nitrate in such a prime burns at a lower
temperature than the ignition point (550-600 degrees C) of the potassium
perchlorate in the star composition, or the mixture of that perchlorate and
barium/strontium nitrate. (Potassium chlorate, or barium/strontium-nitrate,
based stars have an ignition temperature of 400 degrees C, so BP-prime
can ignite them, even in from a hard-broken shell.)
How, then, can we ensure the good ignition of the potassium-perchlorate
based stars?
A double-layer priming method can ensure that good ignition on stars and
comets.
A layer of hot igniter prime is applied to the stars.
Hot Igniter Prime
0.45 Potassium perchlorate
0.30 Potassium nitrate
0.06 Sulfur
0.06 Red gum
0.15 Charcoal, airfloat Poplar
0.18 Magnalium, 63-micron, 230-mesh
0.05 Dextrin (if you are using water or water+alcohol as the solvent)
1.25 Total

Secondly, after the hot igniter prime layer, apply a layer of BP prime (made
with Poplar charcoal) screened or ballmilled.
Colors using only nitrates are harder to light, and more expensive to
develop production processes for, so the listed color compositions combine
the nitrates and potassium perchlorate to improve ignition, and make them
less expensive.
Very Important! The charcoal used for the black powder prime has to be a
light charcoal, as from Willow, Poplar, etc., i.e. softwoods (due to their
porosity and low density), because it lowers the ignition point of the powder,
besides being faster burning, especially if ballmilled. That BP prime can
maintain ignition from a hard break, not being blown out by the fast travel
through the air, and thoroughly igniting the hot igniter prime, and then the
color star.
Hardwood charcoals, such as black pine, beech, oak, etc., raise the ignition
temperature, besides slowing the burn rate, so those charcoals are used
for longer-duration spark effects.

Titanium Whistles
0.70 Potassium perchlorate
0.30 Sodium salicylate
0.02 Red iron oxide

0.10 Titanium (0-250 micron, 0-60 mesh)

Load the paper tube with a clay or plaster plug, whistle for 40% of the tube
length, and then a layer of black powder for priming. Finish with a fuse,
held in with a ball of paper.
Note: this composition produces a raspy whistle sound. For a smoother,
clean/sharp whistle sound, replace the sodium salicylate with sodium or
potassium benzoate, and delete the iron oxide.

Black Powder
There are many things to say about BP. I will focus on the most important
points.
Concerning lift powder: the powder grains must be durable, with a rapid
combustion rate, producing large amounts of gas, but not excessive heat,
since we want to lift the shell casing intact, where it can display its effects
at the desired height.
If the lift powder produced much heat, as would be the case if a metal
powder was used, such as aluminum or magnesium, or if chlorate or
perchlorate was used as the oxidizer, the powder would be too powerful,
and we risk damaging the mortar or shell.
So, in BP for lift, potassium nitrate is used as the oxidizer, charcoal as the
fuel, and sulfur as a burn rate regulator. This powder has a low ignition
temperature of about 300 degrees C (572 F).

Manufacture of black powder: If the ingredients are already milled to a fine

powder, the safest method of mixing them is by passing them through a
fine screen repeatedly, until the mixture is as homogeneous as possible.
This clearly avoids having the powder exposed to excessive friction,
ignition from shock, sparks, or heating due to friction. But, this method does
not produce very powerful lift powder. Despite that, though, good BP prime
can be produced by screen mixing, and even lift powder if good, hot
charcoal is used, such as Poplar, Willow, Balsa, Maple, etc. Of course, it is
logical that more of such lift powder would be required, than if it had been
ballmilled, to propel a shell, etc., to a good height.
There are also effects in which such screen-mixed powder is used, so it
does not burn very rapidly, such as: Willow stars, Kamuro stars, or Glitters,
etc.
Although it is a method used quite a bit, safely, but not completely free from
accidents, grinding the ingredients in a ballmill, in which the material is
rubbed between media made of lead, bronze, wood, or other non-sparking
materials, will produce a hotter BP.
Ballmilling will take some time, depending on how much pulverization is
desired, and the size/weight of the milling media. It is clear that ballmilled
powder is of high quality, and fast, because the potassium nitrate particles
are forced into the pores of the charcoal, helping to produce the maximum
amount of gasses, and faster/cleaner burning.

Research of the Chinese stars chemical compositions and

manufacturing methods

About their colors

In my research of Chinese star/comet colors, one advantage they exhibit is
their ease of ignition. This is due to the use of phenolic resin, which
regulates the burning of the compositions. This is used instead of redgum

or shellac, which are often used in other countries. I have noted the
following features of the phenolic resin:
-There are water soluble phenolic resins, which make it possible to
eliminate the dextrin in color formulas. Dextrin can wash-out some colors,
especially green, blue and turquoise. Rolling stars with these resins is easy
and makes very hard stars.
Here in Spain I obtained and tried a water/alcohol-soluble resin, and it
worked fine, but produced a rapidly burning star which did not produce a
very long effect. It is a matter of finding the right resin, and the Chinese
know a lot about these materials.
-Some resins are soluble in acetone and/or alcohol, and can also be used
for binding stars.
-Resins decompose/ignite at a very low temperature (lower than redgum,
shellac, and temperature-sensitive sulfur), depending on the type of resin.
This is where the virtue of the easily-ignited stars gain this characteristic,
resulting from a lower ignition temperature. The resin adds no acidity to the
composition, so desired PH levels can be maintained. Quite the opposite
would be the case if some sulfur blends were used to lower the ignition
point, resulting in a dangerous composition.
-Phenolic resin has a characteristic feature, that of the odor of Bakelite,
which is a principal component of electronic circuit boards, among other
articles. If one smells a plate of limes, the odor will be similar to the
Chinese color compositions.
-I initially recognized the odor of Bakelite/resin due to my profession as an
electronics technician. That led me to suspect that Chinese compositions
had to be using something to lower their ignition temperatures, and that
something had something to do with Bakelite. After a bit of research, I
realized the Chinese were using the resins, and subsequently I began to
see them in some of the formulations on the internet.

These are the novolac resins, but within that category are many varieties,
and the Chinese are not specific about what kind they use, viewing that as
a Big Secret.
-Otherwise, their compositions use the usual ingredients, oxides,
carbonates, nitrates, perchlorate, etc. Some of their compositions use
higher amounts of metal fuel to increase the brightness, but, of course, with
the tradeoff of increased burn rate, and less purity of color. Certain levels of
magnalium or magnesium increase the burn temperature to the point where
colors are washed out and whitened. But, thats fine for them.

About Priming
Having carefully examined the priming of many stars, in both shells and
other effects, I can say the following:
The Chinese use a single layer of prime on color stars. I have not observed
double prime layers on their stars.
Unlike BP using only potassium nitrate as the oxidizer, the Chinese use a
mixture of potassium nitrate and potassium perchlorate, probably 50:50, to
increase the heat of combustion.
They also include a small percentage of charcoal, phenolic resin, and
maybe some, but very little, sulfur.
Also added to this prime to increase the heat of combustion is a percentage
of magnalium or dark aluminum.
And, I suspect the prime contains a percentage of silicon powder which,
when burned, leaves tiny hot slag droplets of silicon dioxide, to help with
the priming and ignition. But this is a hypothesis on my part, which I can not
confirm.
Nevertheless, a double layer priming system, as described earlier, works
perfectly at igniting color stars from hard shell breaks, without any
problems.

However, I developed a formula for single-layer priming that has been

tested with very good results, even from those hard breaks. The formula is
as follows:
Single-layer prime
0.30 Potassium perchlorate
0.38 Potassium nitrate
0.14 charcoal, airfloat
0.05 Red gum
0.06 Sulfur
0.09 Black iron oxide
0.15 Magnalium, 63-micron, 230-mesh
0.05 Dextrin
The combination of the potassium nitrate and the perchlorate creates a
more powerful oxidizer, but the ignition point is also slightly raised over
KNO3 alone.
Softwood charcoal, such as Poplar, Willow, Maple, etc.
The red gum regulates the combustion, and can be used as a binder if
alcohol or acetone is used as the solvent.
The sulfur lowers the ignition point of the composition.
The iron oxide forms molten iron slag, which helps with ignition.
The magnalium may be replaced with dark aluminum. Either will increase
the combustion temperature for good ignition.
If you are using alcohol in the solvent solution, be sure the water makes up
at least 63% of the mixture. If not, just use water alone, and eliminate the
alcohol.