A Study On Sewability On Denim Fabrics

A STUDY ON SEWABILITY ON DENIM FABRICS
Dr. S.Grace Annapoorani, Associate Professor, Dept of Textiles and Apparel design, Bharathiar University,
Coimbatore-641046
[email protected]
1. Introduction
The word denim is that it is a contraction or derivation of the French term,
SERGE DE NIMES. The material denim is used for the familiar blue jeans. Denim denotes a
rugged cotton twill textile with fibers that produce the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on
the reverse of the fabric.
[1]
Denim is a rugged cotton twill and plain textile, in which the weft
passes under two (twi-double) or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing
identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. [2]
Denim fabric can be defined as warp faced twill fabric made from 100% cotton, heavy
weight yarn- dyed warp varies between 6- 12s .Generally indigo dye is used dyeing of warp yarn.
The word denim has almost becomes a synonyms for high fashion garments. The fashion
article denim has become an evergreen favorite with an increasing growth rate world- wide.
[3]
This project focuses on the various type of denim like regular base denim, coated denim, stretch
denim, poly denim, knitted denim. In these denim the mechanical properties like crimp%, count,
construction, GSM, strength, drape, abrasion, pilling, color fastness, seam slippage and seam
strength is evaluated with the Indian Standard Method and the fabric is converted into
fashionable garments. [6]
2. Methodology
The Methodology adopted for the study considered of the following steps
2.1 Selection of fabric
In this project the investigator selected the denim fabrics because it is more up coming
classic fashion in the world. [7] Recently the fashion trends are moving from different types of
denim. Such as regular denim (denim with pure cotton), poly denim (denim with polyester),
stretch denim (denim with Lycra), coated denim (denim with coated cotton), knitted denim
(denim with knitting). The weight measurements of the fabric are often a prerequisite for
subsequent tests of the other fabric properties. If the fabric weight or dimension is not kept
constant or normalised then the test results will not be comparable. [8] (Table I) Hence, the
investigator has obtained the following weight in denim fabric from K.G denim and Yuvaraj
Merch X.
Table I
Fabric Details
Regular denim
(twill)
warp
weft
Stretch denim
(twill)
warp
weft
Coated denim
(twill)
warp
weft
Poly denim
(plain)
warp
weft
Knitted denim
(knit)
warp
weft
246.8
281.4
353.1
212.2
Content
100% cotton
98% cotton,
2% lycra
100% cotton
184.9
98% cotton,
2% polyester
Drape (%)
Count
(Ne)
29.4
35.2
30.1
20.9
15.2
14.6s
11.9
s
15.1s
15.0s
8.5
s
8.9
s
15.9s
16.2s
31.6
s
39.7
s
Construction
(Threads/cm)
33
17
40
24
30
19
27
19
Crimp %
22.9
6.3
15
18.5
16.6
10.0
14.9
10.6
3.4
3.4
Tensile strength
Breaking strength(kg)/
Elongation(%)
9.34/
12/
12.1/
14.1/
18.5/
23.6/
7.1/
6.9/
13.5/
15.8/1
17.4
20.7
21.3
22.5
24.1
10.5
11.4
17.2
9.6
2.9
2.18
2.86
3.5
3.9
2.1
2.5
1.5
22.4
20
25.6
20.6
30.5
28.9
19.1
18.9
21.5
20
Test
Weight
(gms/m2)
Stiffness
(cm)
100% cotton
Tear strength (g)
2.2 Selection of Sewing Threads

The selected sewing for the study is given as below
S.no
1
2
3
Test
Ply
Tex
Thin place
(50%)/km
Thick
place(+50%)km
Neps
(+200%)/km
Strength (kgf)
7
8
RKM (g/tex)
Elongation (%)
4
5
Polyester/C
otton
Core spun
2
60
0
Spun
polyester
3
60
0
Polyester
core
spun
3
60
0
1.81
2.14
1.90
30.10
12.05
35.60
14.95
31.60
14.50
3. Results and Discussions

3.1 Seam slippage
Seam slippage is defined as the tendency for a seam to open due to the application of a
force a perpendicular to the seam direction. It is a measure of the yarn slippage in a fabric at the
seam. The seam slippage test is also referred to as the seam opening test. [9]
3.2 Seam strength
The load required to cause seam failure, either in a sample removed from a made-up
product or in a sample made to stimulate a seam in a product, normally measured at right angles
to the seam line. [10]
Seam tensile strength
Seam efficiency (%) =
--------------------------- 100
Fabric tensile strength
3.3 Seam efficiency

Seam efficiency largely depends on tensile behaviour of fabric and thread, the
combination of fabric and threads, the dimensional and surface characteristics of sewing thread
and other machine and process parameters.[11]
3.4 Stitch Density
Stitch density is a measurement of the number of needles that enter a square centimeter
(in the metric system) or a square inch (in the imperial system) of fabric as it passes from the
entrance of a needle loom to the exit. [12]
3.5 Sewing machine
A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other material
together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to
decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies.
3.6 Needle Cutting Index
Damage to a seam leading to a reduction in seam performance or appearance. It is
invariably associated with a change in the physical condition of one or more of the components
of the seam. The seam damage test method for needle related damage due to sewing in woven
fabrics, by scanning the sample and transfer to the corel draw software by zooming it the seam
damage is identified and calculated.
[13].
This is more accurate and clean than counting through
pick glass methods.

For each sample needle cutting index was determined using the following formula:
Needle cutting index (%) =
No. of yarn cut/inch

------------------------------- 100
No. of yarns in fabric/inch
NEEDLE CUTTING INDEX 12 SPI

TWILL
STITCH 1 POLYESTER COTTON CORE
SPUN
STITCH 2 POLYESTER CORE SPUN
STITCH 3 SPUN POLYESTER
Needle Cutting Index determined using
COREL DRAW software.
NCI % = Polyester cotton core spun = 3.92
Polyester core spun
= 4.90
Spun polyester
= 4.90
Seam Strength of denim fabric at 12 SPI
S.no
Spun polyester
Polyester cotton
core spun
Polyester core
spun
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Warp
Weft
Fabrics
Plain
fabric
81.53
41.75
81.53
40.06
81.06
42.06
Twill
b1
91.86
45.08
99.99
44.83
99.68
44.83
Twill
b2
104.5
109.96
118.59
111.01
106.01
133
Twill
b3
134.51
112.5
113.55
114.41
134.17
116.05
Knitted
144.30
116.32
119.80
121.65
140.23
120.65
From the above table the knitted and twill b3 has the similar seam strength at 12 inch and twill
warp side is higher than the weft side.
CONCLUSION
The result of the study concludes that it could be
Epic polyester core spun of Tex: 60 and Ticket: 50 were found to be effective in seam
efficiency and seam strength on the fabric denim Cotton and Cotton with Lycra.
Dual duty Polyester Cotton core spun of Tex: 60 and Ticket: 50 were found to be
effective in seam slippage in the fabric denim Cotton Plain, and Cotton with Lycra.
Astra Spun Polyester of Tex: 60 and Ticket: 50 were found to be effective in Needle
Cutting Index in the fabric denim Cotton, and Cotton with Polyester.
Bibliography
1. Sangita, S., Siva Kumar, P., Ravi Chandran., Types of stone wash and their effects on
the denim fabric, Indian textile journal, Pp 13-15, (2010)
2. Prabhu, B., Shanmugam, O.P., Textile dyeing and printing, Textile Asia, Pg 59,
( May 1997)
3. Paul ,R., Indigo Dyeing the hallmark denim, New Cloth market, published By
Indian Industrial And management Service, Ahmedabad, Pg 21 (2003)
4. Miller,E., Dyeing with Indigo, Dyer and printer, Pp 20-22 (Nov1996)
5. Holme,I., Warp Preparing Technology for Denim, Melliand Textileberichte with
English translation, Pp 318- 320 + E92-E93 (2008)
6. Jawale,S., Shukla, History, Asian Dyer, Pg 41 (2006)
7. Ferguson., Effect of stitch density and washing process on pilling behavior of plain
knitting regenerated cellulose fabrics, Melliand International", Pp 168- 170 (2008)
8. Hughey,S., Indigo dyeing: An Ancient Art, Textile Chemist and Colorist, Pg 13
(1983)
9. Menezes,E.,Mahato,D., Ozone bleaching of denim fabrics, AATCC Review, Pp 4044 (2008)

10. Nallankilli,G., Special washing treatment on denim, Asian Dyer , Pp 31- 34 (2008)

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A STUDY ON SEWABILITY ON DENIM FABRICS

Tear strength (g)

2.2 Selection of Sewing Threads

3. Results and Discussions

3.3 Seam efficiency

damage is identified and calculated.

This is more accurate and clean than counting through

pick glass methods.

No. of yarn cut/inch

NEEDLE CUTTING INDEX 12 SPI

Seam Strength of denim fabric at 12 SPI

9. Menezes,E.,Mahato,D., Ozone bleaching of denim fabrics, AATCC Review, Pp 4044 (2008)

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