Controlled Hand Forging Pt. 1

C O N T RO L L E D H A N D F O RG I N G
Lesson One: Drawing Out

By Peter Ross and Doug Wilson
Illustrations by Tom Latan
Lesson Number One
Draw a sharp point on a 1/2" square bar..
The taper should be straight, three inches long and in line with
the axis of the parent bar. The cross section of the taper should
be square. The surfaces of the bar should be smooth with no discernable hammer marks.The beginning of the taper should be a
crisp line.
the anvil face which corresponds to the angle of the taper you
want to forge.
As you work, adjust the height of the bar as you hold it on the
anvil and the angle of your hammer blows. If you hold the bar
too high it will bend down in the middle; too low and the bar
tip bends down. The bar will remain straight if you are gauging
the angles just right.
Rotate the bar 90 degrees after every one or two blows to keep
the bar from getting too wide as the forging progresses. Hit, turn
Intent:
Students will learn to draw out tapers of specified length and
check their results for accuracy.
Tools Needed:
Forge, anvil, hammer, ruler, square.
Materials:
24" of 1/2" square mild steel bar ( this is enough material to
practice the exercise several times).
Method:
When working to a specified length, establish the point first,
then extend the taper to the desired length.
Step One:
Mark the anvil with soapstone or marker three inches from the
anvil step. This is the finished length of the taper you will forge.
Take a yellow-white heat on the end of the bar. Place the bar on
Placement of steel and position of the hammer blow.

90 degrees, hit and turn 90 degrees back again. You need only
turn the bar back and forth as the underside of the bar is worked
against the anvil. Continue this sequence of forging until you
have made a sharp point.
Hint:
The measured piece held over the anvil.

the anvil so that the end of the bar is at the far edge of the anvil
and only the end of the bar is touching the anvil face. This way,
the hammer wont strike the anvil surface if it overhangs the hot
bar. Strike a blow on the end of the bar with your hammer. The
hammer should strike at an angle. There will be a wedge-shaped
daylight space between the hammer face and
12
It is very important to rotate the bar exactly 90 degrees each

time. Use the original flats of the bar as a reference. If the turn is
either more or less, the bar will become a parallelogram in cross
section and that makes it difficult to attain the desired result.
If the bar does become a parallelogram, hit the corner of the
long diagonal; then return to forging the flats of the bar. The
sooner you catch and correct this error, the better. Keep a square
cross section
Step Two:
Once the point is established, start working back from the point
HAMMERS BLOW
Rotation and deformation of the bar by the hammer,

and correcting a parralellogram.
until the taper is 1/4 " short of the desired length . Work with
heavy hammer blows at a bright heat while you are reducing the
cross section. Lighter hammer blows at lower heats will help you
refine the shape of your taper and smooth the surface. Establish a
clear and well-defined beginning of your taper.
Step Three:
Now focus on smoothing the surfaces and straightening the taper
at the same time. Make the taper straight and true. Refine the
shape of the taper with light overlapping hammer blows. Do this
as the bar cools to dark orange and red color. The bar scales less
at this lower heat and you will get a smoother surface. Sight
down the length of the bar for straightness. Straighten with light
blows at low heat. Another way to tell if the taper is straight is to
Straightening a bent point (above) and

centering an off-center point (below).
stand the bar up with the point on the anvil face and spin it in .
If it is straight there will be no wobble.
The four flat sides of the taper should be in line with the original
flat sides of the bar and the taper should align with the original
centerline of the bar. Any deviation should be corrected with
your hammer at the anvil.
Targets:
Try to draw out and finish the taper in two heats. Beginners may
take several extra heats.
Maintain a square cross-section in the taper. Check this with a
square.
Hammer-finish with smooth surfaces and without discernable
hammer marks.
Maintain a perfectly straight axis in the bar and in the 3" long
taper. Check this with a rule and also practice sighting down the
length of the bar until you can attain the same results by eye.
Measure your results using a square and a rule. The four flats of
your taper should be straight within two or three thousandths of
an inch, length within 1/16" and square in cross section. With
practice you should be able to forge to this accuracy by eye.
Repeating this exercise with care and attention will enable you to
achieve these results quickly and consistently.
Forging Dynamics :
Angle of the bar and hammer when dressing the final taper.
WINTER 2003
In this exercise, when the square bar is struck, it gets thinner top
13
Methods of measuring the dimensions.
Exaggerated deviations show how to measure goal tolerance.
to bottom but wider side to side. When you turn the bar 90
degrees and hit again, (you are restricting the spread of the bar,
but allowing lengthwise stretch. Repeating this hit, turn, hit,
turn sequence results in creating a taper. You are redistributing
the mass of the bar with your hammer. As the bar become thinner it becomes longer. Notice that the thinner steel heats faster.
It also chills faster. This is because there is less mass. Also note
how much the bar you tapered has stretched in length.
14
HAMMERS BLOW

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C O N T RO L L E D H A N D F O RG I N G

Lesson One: Drawing Out

Placement of steel and position of the hammer blow.

The measured piece held over the anvil.

It is very important to rotate the bar exactly 90 degrees each

Rotation and deformation of the bar by the hammer,

Straightening a bent point (above) and

Methods of measuring the dimensions.

Exaggerated deviations show how to measure goal tolerance.

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