Peru Information

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P e r u
Peru
Overview
Introduction
Lake Titicaca, which straddles Peru's border with Bolivia, is the highest navigable lake in the
worldandoneofthemostbeautiful.TheIncaruinsofMachuPicchu,whichwouldbe
stunning anywhere, are truly spectacular in their Andean setting, high above the Urubamba
River. And Cusco, once the center of the Incan empire and now a vibrant gateway to Incan
ruins, is also high in the Andes.
Yet even at sea level, Peru can leave you breathless. With unspoiled beaches, coastal desert,
deep canyons and dense Amazon jungle, its variety of natural wonders is astonishing.
Then, there are the cultural treasures. The contrast between old and new runs throughout the
land: Poncho-clad indigenous peoples walk their llamas through modern cities, past Spanish
cathedrals built on the foundations of ancient Incan ruins. Giant, stylized designs were etched
intheearthbytheNazcaagreatpreColumbiancivilization.
Amazon Rain Forest
Peru is where pre-Columbian culture reached its most graceful peak. Like the Parthenon in Greece or the Pyramids of Egypt, the Incan and
pre-Incan ruins of Peru provide an unforgettable glimpse of the genius of a lost world.
History
Before the Incan empire, many civilizations flourished in Peru. The Moche culture (noted for exceptionally fine pottery), the Nazca culture
(which made huge etchings in the desert) and the Chimu culture (with its large adobe cities) are but three examples. It is the Incas, however,
whosecivilizationisbestknowntheirempire,thoughshortlived,coveredtheSouthAmericanAndesfrommoderndayColombiatoChile.
Their lands were held together by an extensive network of roads, traversed by imperial messengers bearing quipus, or knotted-string
messages.Theempirewasincrediblyskillfulinitsuseofdrymasonry,irrigationandterraces.TheIncancitadelofMachuPicchumadeof
largestonesinterlockedlikefingerswithnomortarusedatteststothetechnicalandaestheticmasteryofthisAmerindianempire.
All that came to an end when, in 1532, the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro arrived with a small but well-armed force, captured the
emperor Atahualpa and began the destruction of a civilization. Today, Peruvians are ambivalent about their past: Pride in their Spanish and
indigenous heritage mixes with shame over the sometimes brutal actions of their forefathers.
After declaring independence from Spain in 1821, Peru enjoyed a short period of republican government, followed by nearly 160 years of
"good" dictatorships alternating with corrupt tyrannies, ineffectual democratic administrations and sheer anarchy. Sporadic attacks by
guerrilla groups continued into the late 1990s, despite the arrest of most of the leaders of the Shining Path, the most violent group. Recent
years have signaled a new era of stability, and while extreme poverty remains in parts of the country, the economy is growing at one of the
fastest rates in the region.
Outsider Alejandro Toledo was elected president in 2001, following the ignominious flight of Alberto Fujimori. Toledo struggled with low
approval ratings and strikes despite pretty robust economic growth throughout his presidency. He was replaced in 2006 by former president
Alan Garcia, who led Peru to hyperinflation and foreign capital flight during his first term in the 1980s. Peruvians accorded him a remarkable
second chance, and he presided over a rapidly expanding economy, but not without criticisms of growing social unrest, environmental
mismanagement and, later, allegations of corruption. In 2011, Garcia was replaced by the current President of Peru, Ollanta Humala.
Snapshot
The chief attractions of Peru are Cusco and Machu Picchu, ecotourism jungle adventures, the Nazca Lines, Lake Titicaca, vast coastal
archaeological sites, bird-watching, world-class cuisine and friendly people.
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Almost everyone will be impressed by what Peru has to offer. Outside of the few major cities and increasing amount of tourist areas, do not
expect deluxe accommodations, high standards of service or high levels of sanitation. Nevertheless, simple but comfortable hotels and
surprisingly good restaurants are found throughout the country.
Potpourri
Lima's San Marcos University is one of the oldest in the New World, founded in 1551, 70 years before the Mayflower landed at Plymouth
Rock.
Peru ranks among the highest places in the world in biodiversity, with 84 of the 104 known life zones on the planet found in the country.
Peruisoneofthecountriesintheworldwiththelargestvarietyoforchids2,800classifiedandasmanyas3,000unclassified.
Lima's metropolitan area population accounts for close to one-third of the nation's total population.
The mummy of a young Incan girl had lain frozen for five centuries before melting ice dislodged her from her summit location on Mount
Ampato and sent her down the mountain. Probably left there as a sacrificial offering, Juanita, as she was named, was the first female Inca
mummy discovered in the Andes. She is now on display in the Museo Santuarios Andinos in Arequipa.
Thor Heyerdahl, in his voyage of the Ra(anEgyptianreedship),hadthehelpofTiticaca'sUrospeopletheonlypeopleintheworldwith
the requisite reed-working and boat-building skills. The explorer also believed that Peruvians were the first people to settle Polynesia.
The traditional use of the coca leaf dates back at least 5,000 years. Chewing the coca leaf was once a privilege for Incan royalty. The
Spaniards began to cultivate it and used it to stimulate their workers. Peru is one of the world's largest sources of coca leaves, and chewing
coca leaves is an integral part of highland Andean society. Even in cities, coca tea and candy are popular.
Millions of years ago, the Amazon River drained into the Pacific through what is now Peru. Eons of continental drift and collision raised the
Andesandreversedthecourseofthemightyriver.PinkAmazonRiverdolphinsarethemostobviousandbeautifulrelicofthegreat
inland lake that formed when the Andes rose.
IquitosissoremoteandtheAndessuchaformidablebarrierthattradewithEuropeusedtobefarmoreeconomicalthantradewithLima
the Amazon River leads to Iquitos, but there are no roads connecting it with the rest of Peru. With air transportation, Iquitos now has good
communication with the rest of the country, but it remains the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by road.
See & Do
Sightseeing
Historic Sites
Peru is considered the Egypt of the Americas for the sheer abundance of historical sites that are found in nearly every corner of the country.
Most famously, there's the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu near Cusco, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a New World Wonder.
Also in the Cusco area are hundreds of lesser-known Incan archaeological sites such as Choquequirao, Ollantaytambo and Pisac. On the
shores of Lake Titicaca are the Sillustani stone towers built by the Aymaras, while the northern highlands are home to the Chachapoyan
walled city of Kuelap and the Karijia sarcophagi.
The coast of Peru is particularly rich in Pre-Incan ruins. The Nazca Lines 250 mi/400 km south of Lima are a 50-mi/80-km stretch of ancient
geoglyphs etched into the desert by the Nazca culture between 400 BC and 650 BC. On the north coast in Trujillo is Chan Chan, the largest
adobe city in the Americas, and the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna, two important Moche pyramids.
Near Chiclayo is Tucume, a complex of 28 pyramids. Closer to Lima is Pachacamac, a pre-Inca ceremonial center, and Caral, which dates
from 2600 BC and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in the Americas.
An excavated royal burial site at Sipan exhibits Moche burial practices. A priest-warrior was buried with young women at his head and feet,
older women and a dog at his side, and surrounded by water and food containers for the next life. Just above, a guard with a gilded copper
helmetandcoppershieldlayburiedhisfeetcutofftopreventhimfromabandoninghispost.
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Museums
The majority of artifacts that have been discovered in Peru's countless archaeological sites can be found in Lima's museums. Weavings
from the Paracas culture, Incan mummies, Moche erotic pottery and colonial artwork can be seen in the Larco Archaeology Museum, Gold
Museum and the private Amano Museum. In Cusco there are several important collections of Incan and colonial artifacts including those
dedicated to Pre-Columbian art and Catholic relics.
Near Chiclayo, there's the world-class Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, which holds artifacts from some of the most important archaeological
finds of the past century. A few miles/kilometers away in Ferrenafe is the Sican National Museum with its rare finds from the Lambayeque
culture. More than a dozen museums are located in Arequipa, though none are more important than the Museo Santuarios Andinos, where
the child mummy Juanita, found buried in ice on the Ampato volcano, rests.
Nature
Peru has more than 70 conservation zones that cover approximately 16% of the country's total territory. The largest of the national parks and
reserves are in the eastern part of the country that lies within the Amazon Basin. In the north near Iquitos is the Pacaya Samiria, a massive
flood plain with the greatest number of species of fruits and fish in the world. In the southeast the Tambopata-Candamo National Reserve
near Puerto Maldonado, and the even more remote Manu Biosphere Reserve are two of the most biodiverse places in South America,
home to rare and endangered wildlife such as the giant river otter and the Andean spectacled bear.
Dozens of other reserves are dotted across the highlands and on the desert coast. Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, the two deepest canyons
in the world, can be found in the south near
Arequipa. The Paracas National Reserve and Islas Ballestas are home to countless marine bird and sea lion colonies, while several parks
near Tumbes in the far north hold ecosystems found nowhere else in Peru, ranging from mangroves to equatorial dry forests.
Religious Sites
The Spanish mark on Peru is woven tightly to their installation of Catholicism in the country in the attempts to quell the Incas. Cusco's Plaza
de Armas holds some of the more elaborate religious structures in the country. The Cathedral is built on the base of the Inca Viracocha
Palace. Nearby, the church of Santo Domingo, believed to be one of the largest Roman Catholic churches in the world, was constructed on
top of the Incan Temple of the Sun, or Qoricancha, while the Jesuit La Compania is considered equally opulent.
Lima's Spanish neoclassical San Francisco Monastery is the city's most visited religious site, known for the catacombs below it that hold the
remains of more than 10,000 people. Arequipa's Santa Catalina Convent is a city within a city that dates from the late 16th century and was
closed to the outside world until 1970.
Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries

While Peru's vineyards are not as well-known or developed as those in Chile or Argentina, the dry desert conditions that extend from Lima to
the Chilean border are ideal for grape production. Wine is produced, but it is not nearly as common as pisco, Peru's national spirit, which is
distilled under strict appellation of origin rules. The Ica region is home to the most distilleries, but Lima, Chincha, Canete, Arequipa and
Tacna also feature numerous distilleries.
Recreation
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Beaches
There are plenty of beaches to choose from along Peru's long stretch of Pacific coastline. The country's coast is desert, however, so the
beaches are not Caribbean-postcard perfect, nor are the waters all that warm because of the cold Humboldt current. As a rule, the farther
north you travel, the warmer the water is. The stretch from Huanchaco to Tumbes, near the Ecuadorian border, is the only area where you
can swim comfortably for extended times outside of the summer months without a wet suit.
FavoritebeachesincludePuntaSal(30mi/50kmsouthwestofTumbes)consideredbymanytobethebestbeachinPeruMancora(60
mi/100 km south of Tumbes), Las Pocitas (65 mi/105 km south of Tumbes), Paita (30 mi/50 km west of Piura), Pimentel and Santa Rosa (9
mi/14 km west of Chiclayo) and Huanchaco (7 mi/12 km west of Trujillo).
In Lima, the beaches to the south enjoy the best reputation, although many can be dirty and polluted. Popular places include El Silencio,
Senoritas, Caballeros, Punta Hermosa (a good place for ceviche and seafood restaurants), Punta Negra, San Bartolo, Santa Maria, Naplo,
Pucusana (with beaches and a small fishing village) and Asia (where wealthy Lima residents have summer homes).
Bicycling
Peruhasdevelopedamountainbikingtourismindustryandwiththeruggedterrain,wherebetter?Thebestplacetogoforoutfitterswith
decent bikes and knowledgeable guides is Huaraz. There is also good mountain biking out of Lima, Cusco, Arequipa and Huancayo.
Bird Watching
Peru is a birder's paradise, with some 18.5% of all the bird species in the world and 45% of all neotropical birds. The country's varied
geography and topography combined with many wilderness areas means the number and variety of birds is more than anywhere except
Colombia. Even if you're not a keen bird-spotter back home, it's hard not to admire the huge condors in the high Andes or the flocks of
brilliant scarlet macaws in the Amazon basin. Birding in Peru is possible year-round.
Hiking & Walking

Peru boasts a huge range of hiking possibilities, including the world-famous Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. This was just one of the
hundreds of "royal highways" that criss-crossed the Inca empire, all paved with stone. The remnants of these trails are ideal for hikes and
walks, and many are still in use today. In the north, the passes, lakes and mountain scenery of the Cordillera Blanca offer several beautiful
circuits to explore, such as Llanganuco and Santa Cruz.
TothesouthoftheCordilleraBlancaliestheHuayhuashrangeatougherpropositionwithhigheraltitudesandlongercircuits.Farthernorth
stretches the Chachapoyas region, a wonderful area for hiking amid cloud forests, villages and the impressive ruins of the Chachapoyan
people. In southern Peru, there are several excellent treks close to Arequipa, in the Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, as well as around Cusco
and the Sacred Valley.
The Inca Trail
This 25-mi/40-km trail wends its way from the vicinity of Cusco to the citadel of Machu Picchu. It
ranks among the most spectacular in the world, rewarding the fit traveler with a string of
impressive Inca ruins, stunning mountain vistas and varied environments. The trek usually takes
four days. Only a few operators in Cusco are licensed to organize the hikes, and you must
contracttheirservicesyoucan'tgoindependently.
Peru
http://www.incatrailperu.com
Packages include transportation to the trailhead (located beyond Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley) from Cusco, all meals, snacks and
drinks, all camping equipment, entry to the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary and a ticket for the four-hour train ride back to Cusco. The
trek goes over two 13,120-ft/4,000-m passes, so it is wise to acclimate for a while in Cusco before the hike. The dry season runs roughly
April-October, and the trail is busiest in July and August. The trail is closed for maintenance during the month of February.
With the popularity of the Inca Trail, authorities have limited trek permits to 500 people total, including guides and porters, per day. Travelers
must book several months in advance (in peak season it's wise to book as much as six months early). If you don't book in time, or want to
trek other routes, consider the four- to five-day trek to the ruin of Choquequirao, or the Salkantay trek, which is a longer and tougher route
culminating in Machu Picchu. A shorter, two-day version of the Inca Trail, ending at Machu Picchu, passes through the ruins of Winay Wayna.
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Horseback Riding
Horses, mules and donkeys are part of everyday life in much of the Andean highlands, and there's a cowboy culture of sorts the length of
Peru. Most tourist towns and cities boast an operator organizing horseback riding trips. The most spectacular regions to consider a fourlegged adventure are the Cordillera Blanca, Chachapoyas, Sacred Valley and the Colca Canyon.
Surfing
Peru is world-renowned as a surfing destination, with more than 30 top surfing beaches. The variety of waves and year-round action keep
both foreign and Peruvian fans happy. Waves up to 20 ft/6 m can be found there. The season runs approximately September-February in the
north and March-December in the south. May is rated the best month around Lima. International competitions are held at Pico Alto and
Punta Rocas, both south of Lima. The Mancora area, near the Ecuadorian border in the north, is the best coastal village that caters to
surfers.
Other Options
Peru's reputation as a white-water paradise is growing fast, with increasing numbers of paddlers heading to the country every year. There is
easy access to a wide range of rivers running the gamut from pleasant Class II rides to heart-pounding Class V. Cusco is considered the
best starting point for many trips on both the Urubamba River and the mighty Apurimac. One can also embark on longer four- or five-day
expeditions all the way down to the Amazon basin. Other popular centers include Lunahuana and Arequipa.
Shopping
Lima has a number of modern department stores (Ripley and Saga Fallabella in more than a dozen locations around the city), as well as
malls (Larcomar in Miraflores and Jockey Plaza in Surco), so if you have forgotten anything at home it will probably be quite easy to find
there. Shop for alpaca-wool sweaters and rugs, gold, Incan walking sticks, miniature handmade statues, woven-straw items, ponchos, llama
rugs, cotton and linen fabrics, blankets, silver, tapestries, wood and leather products, Andean oil paintings, silkscreen prints and pottery.
The Indian Market (Mercado de los Indios) on Petit Thours Street in Miraflores is the best place in the capital to buy a variety of handicrafts
from all over Peru. There are also good shops in the deluxe hotels. Bargaining is the rule in markets, but prices are fixed in hotel shops. You
will get better-value items in the smaller towns.
Be aware that no one can export artifacts or antiques. If you want to buy anything that looks remotely old, contact the Peruvian Institute of
Culture to verify that you can take it home with you. Stuffed animals, animal skins or handicrafts made with the feathers of certain birds are
also illegal.
Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, with some stores open as late as 9 pm. Most of the malls and markets are open on
Sunday, but do check before making a long trip. Small local stores selling basics may open later, but might close for an hour or two at
lunchtime.
Security
Personal Safety
Most visits to Peru are trouble-free, but you should take precautions and be alert at all times. Most crime consists of pickpocketing and
purse snatching, so whenever possible, don't take a bag and keep items such as wallets in your front pockets, preferably zipped. If you must
take a bag, keep it close to you and don't leave it unattended, especially in airports and bus terminals. It is recommended that you don't go
out alone late at night (after 10 pm), except by taxi.
Be especially careful in Lima, the capital, and other urban areas popular with tourists, including Cusco, Arequipa, Puno and Juliaca.
Potentially dangerous areas in Lima that you should avoid include discos and bars downtown; San Miguel (Avenida La Marina), Lince and
especially La Victoria; any place in Villa El Salvador after 6 pm; any place in Surquillo and the port of Callao (except the airport).
You will notice the overwhelming number of taxis in Lima and the big cities; the taxi drivers will often honk their horns to pick up passengers,
but do try to avoid using the ticos(adiminutiveforaDaewoomake)theyareunsafeasvehiclesandarealsothecheapesttorent.
Whenever possible, you should have your hotel call for a taxi.
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In Cusco, there have been rare incidences of choke-and-rob attacks against tourists, especially women traveling alone. Also be aware that
despite the capture of the leaders of the Shining Path and Tupac Amaru, two guerrilla groups, a terrorist presence still exists in remote
mountainandjungleareasespeciallyincentralPeruintheUpperHuallaga,AguaytiaandApurimacEnebasins,wheretheterrorismis
linked with drug trafficking. Tourists are unlikely to be affected by this.
The major tourist sites are generally safe, but travelers who are planning to venture beyond major tourist areas should contact the Lima
Tourist Police or the South American Explorers (Enrique Palacios 956, Miraflores, Lima; phone 511-445-3306; http://www.saexplorers.org)
upon arrival. Your embassy can provide an up-to-date list of places around the country considered dangerous and where official government
travel has been restricted.
Tourists may register complaints on a national 24-hour hotline, provided by the official iPeru tourist information and assistance service. In
Lima, call 574-8000. Outside Lima, add the prefix (01) to this number.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
In larger cities, there are adequate medical and dental facilities (private facilities are generally better equipped than public hospitals or
clinics). See your doctor about malaria suppressants if you're going to visit rural areas in the Amazon (chloroquine-resistant strains are
present in the eastern provinces that border Brazil). Malaria is not present in Lima or in high-elevation areas such as Cusco, Machu Picchu
and Lake Titicaca. Vaccinations for yellow fever, hepatitis and typhoid are also recommended but not required. Take along all prescription
medicine needed for the trip.
Cholera is no stranger to Peru. Fueled by poor sanitation, the disease is spread by contaminated water, raw seafood (ceviche) and
unsanitary preparation of food. Except in the more deluxe establishments in major cities, sanitary conditions in restaurants can pose
problems for travelers. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe (especially if it's included on a package tour). You should, however,
peel fresh fruit and raw vegetables before eating. In addition, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly, avoid local dairy products, and assume
tap water and ice are unsafe (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). If you eat street food, make sure it is cooked in front of you.
If you fly into high-altitude areas (such as Cusco), allow some time for your body to adjust. Some people need as much as three days. You
may experience altitude sickness (nausea, headache, insomnia, dizziness, loss of appetite and general malaise), which can be serious.
Take it easy, drink plenty of liquids, and avoid alcohol and smoking for the first few days; see a doctor if symptoms seem extreme or persist
(you may have to return to a lower altitude).
For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do find some time to relax in Cusco's main plaza. It's an enjoyable place to sit and watch the world go by, with a backdrop of Incan and
colonialSpanisharchitecture,andbeyondthat,theAndes.Butdon'trelaxtoomuchtheplazaisalsoahangoutforpickpocketsandpetty
thieves.
Don't throw toilet paper down the toilet; use the trash can next to the seat.
Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public places and restaurants don't provide it.
Don't assume anyone speaks English or that raising your voice will help them understand your strange tongue.
Do try to learn some Spanish words and use them whenever possible. You will always get a positive reaction from Peruvians if you try to
speak their language, and common courtesies such as greeting people upon entering an office, elevator or house are very important in
Peruvian culture.
Don't get into a taxi before negotiating the cost of the ride. Taxis in Peru don't have meters.
Do expect to be kissed on the cheek by female Peruvians when they introduce themselves and when they say farewell.
Don't allow yourself to be easily distracted by the action around you. Different tactics seem to go in and out of style among thieves, but their
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mainobjectiveistodivertyourattentionstagingafightoraccident,forexamplesotheycanmaketheirmovewhenyou'refocusedon
something else.
Dokeepyoureyeonyourbaggage.WeshouldmentionthatoneofourcorrespondentsspentthreemonthsinPeruwithoutanyproblems
until departure at the airport, when he set his camera down for a moment. It was a moment too long.
Don't expect to see the headhunter tribes in resplendent primitive glory. Tribe members are well aware of the fascination their tribes hold for
tourists, and visits to tribal villages have become very commercial in many places. On our last trip, we came around the bend of a river a little
too early and caught a fellow changing his swimming trunks for a grass skirt.
Doconsultyourlocalcamerastoreabouthowtotakepictureswherethere'slotsofglareapolarizingfilterwillimproveyourphotography
greatly. Also mention that you'll be at high altitudes, as well as in high humidity if you're bound for the jungle. (Take along a plastic bag if
you're going to the Amazon region to keep moisture out of your camera, as well as small bags of silica gel.)
Don't always count on getting a hot shower or hot tap water, even in hotels that advertise they have it. Electricity, used to heat water, is
sporadic in most medium-sized and small towns in Peru.
Do take plenty of water with you wherever you go in the Andes. You can quickly become dehydrated at such high altitudes.
Don't lose the white entry slip given to you by immigration when you enter the country, as you will need to hand it back when exiting.
Do check, before leaving home, the number of days you are allowed to stay in Peru (for most tourists it is 90 days). Immigration officials
might stamp 30 days unless you have requested otherwise.
Don't carry your passport with you each day; keep it and your bank cards in a safe location, such as a hotel safe. Instead, carry photocopies
of your passport.
Do take adapter plugs. Peru is a confusion of U.S.-style flat-pin plugs and European-style round-pin plugs. It's best to be prepared for both.
Money
Currency Exchange
Peru's currency is the Nuevo Sol, available in bills of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 nuevos soles. It has been relatively stable to the dollar in recent
years, exchanging for about three soles to the dollar. When exchanging dollars, take crisp, new, untorn bills. Money changers and banks will
refusetochangeevenslightlydamagednotes.Trytoacquiresmallbillswheneverchangingmoneythereseemstobeaconstantshortage
of change in Peruvian cities.
Don'tacceptbillsthataretornortapednomatterhowslightlybecausealmostnoonewillacceptthem:Counterfeitingisaproblemin
Peru. Check your bills by holding them up to a light. You should see a watermark and a very small strip that says Peru 50 or Peru 20
depending on the denomination of the bill.
It's best to pay in cash whenever possible. Restaurants and hotels often levy a service charge (about 6%) for processing a credit card. Also,
you can bargain for discounts in cash, but rarely with plastic.
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Taxes
Avalueaddedtax(VATcalledIGVinPeru)of19%isaddedtoallsales.Youwon'tpayitforcashtransactionsinplacessuchasmarkets
and street stalls. Sales tax should be included by restaurants on the menus, but some add both sales tax and a 10% service charge to your
bill,soit'sbesttocheckifindoubt.(It'stotallylegalyoujustdon'twanta29%surprise.)Cheaperrestaurantsoftendon'tbotheradding
anything.
Hotels may also append sales and services charges to bills; foreign travelers can present a photocopy of their passports and the 19% IGV
will not be charged (first class and luxury hotels will often make the photocopy for you). Less expensive hotels may not bother charging the
IGV.
Airport departure taxes are included in the price of your ticket, so you will not have to pay an additional fee in the airport itself (unless a
particular airline does not include the tax in the ticket price, which is unlikely).
Tipping
Most restaurants in Peru do not include a tip with the bill, nor do waiters expect a 15%-20% tip. In most restaurants Peruvians leave a small
5% tip, though in fine dining restaurants in Lima, Arequipa and Cusco, a 10%-15% tip is becoming increasingly common. Peruvians in
inexpensive restaurants almost never tip.
Skycaps and bellboys get about 2 soles per bag. Leave housemaids about 2 soles-3 soles per night in first class hotels. Taxi drivers are not
normally given a tip. Tour guides and crew (drivers, porters and the like) are tipped roughly 15 soles-50 soles per tourist per day for tour
guides, depending on the quality of the tour, and the same amount divided among the crew.
Weather
ThereisnosingleclimateinPeruthedeserts,junglesandmountainsareeachseparatelyundertheinfluenceofdifferentnaturalforces.
Temperaturesarefairlystableyearroundit'scolderinthehighlandsandhotinthelowlands.TherainyseasonisOctoberAprilinthe
mountains, and most travelers go during the dry months that coincide with North American and European summer vacations. Many
Peruvians travel during this time as well, especially for the national holidays in late July, when prices can double.
The dry months are by far the best for camping and climbing trips in the Andes. The heaviest rains in the highlands are January-April, and
disruptions in bus traffic because of landslides can be severe especially in February and March.
On the desert coast, it almost never rains but can be interminably cloudy April-December, especially on the central and south coasts. It's
always hot and humid along the Amazon River (it is a jungle, after all). Be sure to take a sweater (or something heavier) if you're going to
Cusco and Machu Picchu. The best times to visit are May and September, missing the busiest tourist months and skirting the rainy season.
But you can go year-round and have a wonderful time.
What to Wear
In Lima and on the coast, temperatures vary little and are balmy enough for a shirt or T-shirt and light pants in the day. At night, it's best to
have a lightweight sweater or jacket for the coastal breezes. In the Andes, you should take precautions against both the plummeting
temperatures at night and the high UV radiation during the day (long-sleeved shirts protect against sunburn better than T-shirts; also wear a
sunhat and strong sunscreen). Fleeces are essential, as is a decent hat (wooly ones are available on every street corner). For the jungle,
long sleeves and pants are recommended to fend off mosquitoes. Don't forget a comfortable pair of walking shoes.
Business meetings require business suits, but they don't have to be conservatively colored. In general, the less scruffy you look, the better
you will be treated. Women should dress modestly when entering churches, but otherwise only worry about modesty in more remote
communities. Men who wear shorts away from the beach will stand out as foreigners.
Communication
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Telephone
Cell phone use is widespread in Peru, having reached many rural areas far sooner than traditional land lines. In Lima, you can rent cell
phones by the day, and they are inexpensive if you are planning on staying in Peru for more than a month. Cell phone numbers all begin with
9.
Public phones are very common in all towns and cities; in addition to the official-looking ones, you may find small boxes lurking in
convenience stores. These public phones are either coin-operated or use prepaid cards that can be bought in almost any corner store. The
cardshaveaphonenumberandacodethatyoudialininstructionsareusuallyinSpanish.EverydepartmentinPeruhasaseparatetwo
digit area code prefix, with the exception of Lima, which uses a single digit (1). If you are calling from one department to another, this area
code is preceded by a single zero. You do not need to add this zero if calling Peru from abroad.
Internet cafes often offer voice-over Internet calls, and you'll find small stores for making international calls. These are generally cheap and of
acceptable quality, and far, far cheaper than making calls from your hotel room.
Internet Access
Internet cafes cater to tourists and locals in Peru, so you should have no problem finding one. Internet access is widely available, even in
remote areas; although the farther you are from a big city the slower the connections, in general. Costs are around 2 soles an hour, or less in
major cities. Most hotels now provide Wi-Fi without a fee; however, some international chain hotels add a service charge. Some Internet
cafes won't let laptop users connect directly to their networks, but most will. Wi-Fi is not common in public areas.
Mail & Package Services

Sending packets, postcards and letters from Peru is fairly safe as long as you're not in a hurry for the item to get to its destination. Postage
times can be as much as two or three weeks to North America and Europe. If sending an item of value, it's best to use a courier service,
either a local one or an international name such as DHL or FedEx. To send mail within Peru, the South American Explorers have a postal
system for their members at the clubhouses in Lima and Cusco.
Newspapers & Magazines

The two most established newspapers in Peru are El Comercio and La Republica. Both have decent sections on national and international
politics and events. El Comercio has an excellent section about what's going on in Lima, including a special section on gastronomy.
Rumbos magazine explores travel, nature and culture in Peru and is published in English and Spanish. Rumbos has some beautiful
photographic features.
Transportation
Jorge Chavez International Airport (LIM) is about 10 mi/16 km northwest of central Lima and has modern food courts and other amenities
such as Internet capability. Even international air travelers headed to other destinations in Peru must, for the most part, fly into Lima and
make connections from there to other parts of the country
Although the roads have much improved and the top bus companies assure a very comfortable and afforable ride, domestic flights are
cheap and will save you time when traveling inside the country.
A number of cruise lines call at Callao, a port city 7 mi/11 km from Lima. Riverboats ply the Amazon between Iquitos and Leticia, Colombia,
and Tabatinga, Brazil. Intercity public buses are generally efficient and vary from comfortable "bus-camas" with seats that recline into beds
to overcrowded second-class buses. There are few rail networks in Peru, with regular services limited to the Cusco to Machu Picchu Pueblo
(Aguas Calientes) line and the Cusco to Puno line. Less frequent departures run along the scenic railway line from Lima to Huancayo
Ifyourbudgetallows,hireacaranddriver(wedon'trecommendrentingwithoutadriver,asthedrivingisnerverackingandbeawarethat
only those older than age 21 can rent cars). Taxis can be hailed on the street, but it's safer to arrange one by phone. The fare should be
determined prior to entering the cab.
Page9of34
Bus
Buses are not allowed to enter Lima airport grounds, and to get to the closest stop, you must walk to the main road going toward the city
center. This is dangerous and not advised.
Car
Car rental agencies are located in the Lima airport terminal.
Taxi
Most travelers and locals opt to get to and from the airport by taxis, which are reasonably priced and convenient. When departing the airport
(after baggage claim), there is a prepaid taxi desk that charges 45 soles-75 soles per taxi, depending on where you want to go in the city.
Walking a short distance outside of the prepaid taxi desk will take you to the outdoor taxi stand where cheaper rates are available.
When heading to the airport, it's a good idea to call a taxi company rather taking a taxi off the street. The unmarked luxury taxis that wait
outside major hotels are also an option, although significantly more expensive.
Events
Calendar
Even with the country's exceptional natural beauty, ancient Incan ruins and delicious regional cuisine, among Peru's greatest attractions is its
culture, in particular its cultural festivals. The country's year-round calendar of events and celebrations demonstrates its energy and zest for
life. A celebration is almost always going on somewhere in Peru. For significant events going on in the country, see http://www.peru.travel.
The schedule of Peruvian festivals is based largely on the Roman Catholic liturgical calendar, which dates back to the country's indigenous
roots in the highland villages and functions in conjunction with the agricultural harvest cycle.
In addition to National Independence Days, or Fiestas Patrias, in July, other festivals include Inti Raymi in Cusco in June, the six-day New
Year's festival in Huancayo, the merriment of the sample-friendly Wine Festival in southern Inca, the International Spring Festival in late
September in Trujillo, and the costume- and dancing-filled Puno Week near Lake Titicaca in November.
L i m a ,
P e r u
Lima, Peru
Overview
Introduction
Lima, Peru, is a dynamic, vibrant city full of contrasts. Modern skyscrapers
stand beside pre-Incan pyramids that cover entire city blocks. The City of
Kings was formerly just a stopover en route to the tourist mecca of Cusco
and the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, but visitors to Lima are now
spending more and more time soaking up the cosmopolitan atmosphere
in Peru's capital city, where fine museums and world-class dining combine
with thousands of years of history.
Whether you are shopping in designer boutiques and posh malls, partying
until dawn in a nightclub facing the Pacific, or sampling seafood in the
city's best cevicherias, there is something for almost everyone in Lima.
Page10of34
Colonial-style architecture is found throughout downtown Lima.
Highlights
SightsThesightsofColonialLima,includingBarrioChino(Chinatown)theossuary,conventandarchitectureattheIglesiayConventode
San Francisco; the changing of the guards at the Government Palace; the cliff-side bohemian neighborhood of Barranco.
MuseumsPreColumbianartifactsattheMuseoArqueologicoRafaelLarcoHerreraauthenticIncangoldattheMuseoOrodelPeru.
Memorable MealsStunningpyramidviewsfromHuacaPucllanaRestaurantGastonAcurio'strendycriollodishesatPanchitanovo
Peruvian delicacies at Malabar.
Late NightThecity'sbestnightclubsatLarcomarShoppingCenterdinneranddrinksatapena (folk-music club) downtown or in
Barranco.
WalksFromBarranco'smainplazatothePacificthroughColonialLimatheseasidemalecon in Miraflores; Parque El Olivar in San
Isidro.
Especially for KidsLearningaboutPeruvianwildlifeatParquedelasLeyendasmarineanimalsontheIslasPalominosthebeachesof
La Costa Verde.
History
After the Spanish gained control of the Inca empire, they moved down from the Andes to build a capital on the coast: Lima was founded by
Francisco Pizarro on 6 January 1535. At the time, small populations of native people were already living in fishing and farming settlements
in the area. They had only been recently conquered by the Incas, however, and so were indifferent to the arrival of the Spanish.
The city became a Spanish capital in South America and one of the wealthiest cities on the continent. The nearby port of Callao became the
point of export for Inca gold, Potosi silver and other goods that were being exploited in the Andes. Thus, it became a target for pirates, who
sank dozens of Spanish galleons and frequently attacked the port. It's possible to see the remains of the defensive wall that Spaniards built
in hopes of protecting their treasure.
Wide-scale trade stretched across the globe in the 18th century, and the city grew significantly. An earthquake in 1746 nearly destroyed the
city, but it was soon rebuilt using African slave labor. Growth was slowed after independence was declared in 1821, but increased
dramatically several decades later when the influx of capital from the guano boom allowed the city to expand. (Guano is nitrate-rich seabird
droppings used for fertilizer.) The boom ended with the War of the Pacific (1879-83), when Peru lost some nitrate-rich areas to Chile.
The population ballooned in the 20th century as laborers moved down from the Andes to find work, setting up shanty towns around Lima,
called pueblos jovenes. During the 1980s and '90s, terrorist groups from the Andes made Lima one of their targets, and the city saw
numerous small bombings, until the major terrorist leaders were captured in 1992. The eradication of terrorism in the mid-1990s culminated
with scandals involving Vladimiro Montesinos, the Peruvian chief of intelligence; President Alberto Fujimori fled the country to Japan before
criminal charges could be brought against him.
In 2001, Alejandro Toledo was the first indigenous person to be elected president in Peru (or any Andean nation). His term was
economically unpopular, and in 2006 conservative Alan Garcia, whose first term in office in the 1980s was disastrous, followed him. His
more recent term was far more successful and the economy expanded rapidly. However, social conflicts resulting in several clashes
between indigenous protestors and security forces marred his presidency.
In 2011, Ollanta Moises Humala Tasso, a center-left candidate and a former military officer, replaced Garcia, winning a run-off vote against
his opponent, Keiko Fujimori, the daughter of the disgraced and now imprisoned former president. Humala has promised social reforms to
balance the economic development and foreign investment, but concerns remain over land rights and sustainability and he faces detractors
and protestors who believe he is merely following the path of Alan Garcia.
Potpourri
Lima's coastline is often called La Costa Verde, or The Green Coast, because of the vegetation that grows along the sides of the oceanfront
cliffs.
Page11of34
Lima sees little annual rainfall. The only precipitation comes from a heavy mist, called garua, that covers the city for much of the year.
Lima's newspaper, El Peruano, is the oldest Latin American newspaper still in existence. It was founded in 1825 by Simon Bolivar.
The 1919 census tallied 173,000 inhabitants in the metropolitan area of Peru's capital. Less than a century later, the number was greater
than 8 million.
Chinese immigrants began arriving in the mid-19th century, and Lima's Chinatown, although modest, is the biggest in South America.
See & Do
Sightseeing
Lima's downtown, the colonial center, is home to the most interesting sites in the metropolitan area, and was named a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 1991. Much of the center has been renovated to its former glory after years of neglect.
The heart of Colonial Lima is the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, the government center since 1535. There you will find the Palacio de
Gobierno (Presidential Palace), the Archbishop's Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and a stunning central bronze fountain.
Also bordering the plaza is the city cathedral, which holds the remains of Francisco Pizarro, the city's founder. Several other churches in the
neighborhood are also worth a visit, such as the baroque Church of San Francisco, with beautiful hand-carved ceilings and extensive
catacombs, and La Merced, the site of the first Mass in Lima. The nearby Barrio Chino, or Chinatown, merits a visit during lunchtime.
History buffs have more than their share of sights to choose from. Pre-Colombian pyramids such as Huaca Pucllana sit a few blocks from
hotels in Miraflores and San Isidro. Centuries-old churches and colonial palaces dot the downtown area, and the Spanish fort Real Felipe
linestheseafrontofCallao.PreColombianartifactssuchasgold,textiles,weaponsandthealwayscrowdpleasingeroticpottery
collectioncanbefoundinLima'smanymuseums.
Several charming neighborhoods are good places to stroll, people-watch or grab a bite to eat. Head to Barranco and make your way from
the plaza past colonial mansions and down an attractive stone promenade to the Pacific, passing under the famous Puente de los Suspiros,
or Bridge of Sighs, along the way.
Lima's green spaces are full of activity. Parque El Olivar, an olive grove planted by the Spanish, is a nice place to bird-watch or just relax.
The larger and more active Parque de la Exposicion , which is downtown, is home to several good museums, weekly craft and food fairs, a
small pond with paddleboats, a lighted fountain circuit, and numerous pavilions and theaters that play host to frequent events.
Lima's other sights include ancient pyramids, dramatic coastal cliffs and world-class museums. Most places can be seen on action-packed
day tours, although many visitors to Lima will prefer to take their time and explore just one or two a day. There is more than enough to keep
you busy for months on end.
Historic Sites
Fortaleza Real Felipe
This Spanish-built pentagonal-shaped fortress was erected to prevent pirate attacks against
Plazuela de la Independencia (Callao)
Spanish galleons that departed Lima's main port. Later, the fort was used in both the War of
Lima, Peru
Independence and the War of the Pacific against Chile. The fort is still in use by Peru's Navy,
and a military museum, Museo del Ejercito, occupies much of the space. Several rooms with
war and military artifacts can be toured (with a Spanish-speaking military guide), and there are significant displays of uniforms from
throughout Peru's history as well as guns, cannons, paintings of important military figures and jail cells. Visitors can walk on the top of the
walls for great views of Callao and the Pacific.
Daily 9 am-2 pm. Entry is only with a military guide (included in fee) and the tour takes two hours. 12 soles adults.
Page12of34
Huaca Pucllana Pyramid

This fifth-century pyramid sits near skyscrapers and residential buildings in the heart of
Miraflores. The adobe structure has served as a commercial, political and ceremonial center for
several civilizations over the past 1,500 years. Mummies from the Lima and Wari cultures have
been found during excavations of the site. One of the top restaurants in Lima, also called Huaca
Pucllana, can be found adjacent to the site.
Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 12 soles adults.
General Borgono Cuadra 8, Miraflores

(Miraflores)
Lima, Peru 15074
Phone: 1-617-7138
http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe
Museums
Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Herrera
This stunning collection of pre-Columbian artifacts (mainly ceramics) is one of the best in the
world. The 45,000 pieces chronicle more than 4,000 years of Peruvian history and touch upon
every major civilization to inhabit the country, including the Inca, Moche, Nazca, Paracas and
Chimu. The museum's setting is equally impressive in an 18th-century mansion that was built
upon a seventh-century pyramid. A wing of the museum is dedicated to a collection of erotic
pottery that shows pre-Colombian people, gods and animals in suggestive and sometimes
graphic poses.
Ave. Bolivar 1515 (Pueblo Libre)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-461-1312
http://www.museolarco.org
Daily 9 am-10 pm. Adults 30 soles, seniors 25 soles, children 15 soles.

Museo de Antropologia, Arqueologia y Historia del Peru
One of the most underrated museums in Lima, the Museum of Anthropology, Archeology and
History of Peru holds some of the most unique pieces from Peru's extensive history. It's located
in a restored Republican mansion where liberators Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin
lived. The permanent collection ranges from metals, musical instruments, and Republican and
colonial art to the Raimondi Stela and the Tello Obelisk. Conferences, lectures, courses,
workshops, theater performances and films are frequently held at the museum.
Plaza Bolivar (Pueblo Libre)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-463-5070
http://museonacional.perucultural.org.pe
Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 9 am-4 pm. Adults 12 soles, children 3.50 soles.
Museo de Arte de Lima
This sprawling, renovated art museum is located in the Parque de la Cultura. Its vast collection
is composed of colonial furnishings, pre-Columbian ceramics and textiles, religious paintings
from the colonial period, and modern sculptures, paintings and photography. There is also
plenty of space dedicated to rotating exhibitions.
Tuesday-Friday and Sunday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Adults 12 soles; seniors,
students and children 4 soles; 3 soles per person for a guide.
Paseo Colon 125 (downtown)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-204-0000
http://mali.pe
Museo de la Nacion
This multilevel museum is one of the largest in the country, and holds an array of artifacts and
Ave. Javier Prado Este 2465 (San Borja)
models spanning Peru's complete history, from pre-Columbian times to the modern era. The
Lima, Peru 15076
history of pre-Columbian groups is well accounted for in this museum with ceramics, textiles,
military objects, diagrams, and an assortment of scale models of Inca and pre-Inca pyramids. A
chronological order to the displays, with signs in both English and Spanish, helps visitors grasp the vast history of the country. A moving
exhibit called Yuyanapaq (meaning "Remember" in the Quechua language) explains the civil war of the 1980s, which killed 80,000 people,
mainly poor peasants. There is no better place to start your understanding of the history of Peru. In addition, the National Symphony
Orchestra presents concerts there on Sunday at 11:30 am during the winter.
Daily except Monday 9 am-6 pm. Free admission.
Page13of34
Museo Oro del Peru

The Gold Museum of Peru is perhaps the world's best after the gold museum in Bogota,
Alonso de Molina 1100 (Surco)
Colombia. This basement museum in the posh district of Surco features an assortment of preLima, Peru 15023
Columbian gold artifacts, ceremonial objects and a few mummies from the various cultures that
inhabited Peru and other South American countries, including the Inca, Chimu, Moche and
Phone: 1-345-1292
Wari. Admission to the fascinating ground-floor weapons museum is included in the ticket
http://www.museoroperu.com.pe
price. It houses weapons and war objects from many countries and is the world's largest smallarms collection. Several small jewelers, an alpaca clothing shop and a small cafe are also
located on-site. A 2001 investigation determined that more than 80% of the collection in the Museo Oro was fake, but the museum now
claims that the bad pieces have been replaced and stands by the authenticity of the entire collection.
Daily 10:30 am-6 pm. 33 soles adults.
Neighborhoods & Districts

Barranco
Lima's artist and bohemian quarter, located just south of Miraflores, is one of the most fascinating districts in the city and seems to be in a
world of its own. Barranco, which means "cliffs," was named because of the cliffs where it sits overlooking the Pacific. It is dominated by
enormous colonial mansions built by Lima's elite in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, many writers, artists and celebrities live in the
district, which has seen a revival in recent years. The best penas and many great nightclubs, art galleries, restaurants, cafes and boutiques
can be found there. Most tourists begin their visit at Barranco's main plaza, which is the hub of activity. From there, walk down the attractive
promenade leading to the Pacific, where stunning views can be had from the restaurants and cafes that line the surrounding cliff sides.
Spanning the promenade, the Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs, is the famous wooden bridge sung about by criollo singer
Chabuca Grande, where young couples walk across holding hands.
Colonial Lima
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Colonial Lima is one of the most interesting parts of the city
Lima, Peru
and the one place in Lima that nearly every visitor spends a day touring. It is full of centuries-old
churches that rival anything in Europe, colonial mansions and large plazas surrounded by
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/500
impressive architecture. The area centers on the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, a wide
square surrounded by many of the most important buildings in the city, such as the baroque city cathedral, Archbishop's Palace and the
Government Palace. Many other churches, colonial buildings and sights, including the Barrio Chino, sit within this district. Most locals
consider Colonial Lima the area between the Plaza San Martin and the Rio Rimac, although technically it is just a small grid around the
Plaza.
Miraflores
Although Colonial Lima is traditionally the political center of the city, the commercial, business and entertainment center is the seaside
suburb of Miraflores. The district is Lima's tourist epicenter and home to the best restaurants, clubs, shopping and the majority of hotels.
Most visitors frequent the area from Parque Kennedy, which is surrounded by shops and restaurants, to Larcomar Shopping Center that
faces the Pacific.
San Isidro
North of Miraflores, this upscale residential district is also home to Lima's most exclusive hotels
and restaurants oriented at business travelers and upmarket tour groups. A pleasant malecon
with walking paths faces the Pacific, while the center of the district is home to Parque El Olivar,
a centuries-old olive grove that is one of the most popular parks in all of Lima.
Lima, Peru
http://www.sanisidrolima.com
Page14of34
Parks & Gardens

Parque de la Exhibicion
This wide expanse of green space adjacent to downtown is Lima's answer to New York City's
Central Park. Built in 1872 and sometimes called Parque de la Cultura, it features gorgeous
Victorian and Byzantine architecture, a small pond with paddleboats, fountains, the Museo de
Arte (residing in the former Exhibition Palace), numerous pavilions and stages, benches,
walking paths and roving vendors. The site is home to weekly fairs and festivals, often
showcasing crafts and foods from other parts of Peru. There is a permanent food court in the
southeastern corner of the park.
Paseo Colon, Avenida Wilson, Paseo de

la Republica and Avenida 28 de Julio
(downtown)
Lima, Peru
Free.
Parque El Olivar
Many consider this popular bird-watching spot the most pleasant park in Lima. Olive trees
San Isidro
planted by the Spanish about the time of the city's founding shade a maze of walking paths that
Lima, Peru
weave in and out of Lima's most exclusive residential district and the city's business capital.
Legend has it that one of Lima's patron saints, San Martin de Porras, planted the original trees
from three small branches. Luxurious hotels and residential towers, fine-dining restaurants, chic cafes and shopping boutiques all border the
park. The park is a popular spot for newlyweds to have their wedding photos taken.
Free.
Religious Sites
Cathedral of Lima
Although the first stone of the first manifestation of this cathedral was laid by Spanish
Plaza Mayor (downtown)
conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535, the structure seen today is hardly original. It was
Lima, Peru
destroyed or badly damaged by numerous earthquakes over the years. The third construction,
taken on through much of the 17th century, went with a Gothic style after losing many vaults in
http://arzobispadodelima.org
temblors. Pizarro's tomb is found there. The church hosts Mass on Saturday at 9 am and
Sunday at 11 am. The cathedral's museum features a variety of artwork from the archbishops' and private collections. Multilingual guides are
available.
Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm. 10 soles adults.
Church of La Merced
The original wooden structure, erected in 1536, was replaced by the 1680 Baroque-style
basilica seen today. Within are lovely cloisters and a small museum in the sacristy that contains
some religious artwork. Religious pilgrims go to see the cross of the Venerable Padre Urraca.
Jr. de la Union 621 (Historic City Center)

Lima, Peru 15001
Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-noon and 5-8 pm; museum is open Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 2-5:30 pm. Admission to the
museum is 6 soles.
Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco
The Church and Convent of San Francisco, built in 1674, is a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage
site and one of the most visited sights in all of Peru. The baroque church is decorated with
Sevillian tiles and carved mudejar ceilings, but the main interest lies with the catacombs
beneath the church. The bones of more than 25,000 people from Lima's early days are believed
to be buried there, and many can still be seen laid out in bizarre designs. Tours of the museum
last approximately an hour and can be given in English.
Plaza San Francisco (downtown)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-426-7377
http://www.museocatacumbas.com
Daily 9:30 am-5:45 pm. Museum admission adults 7 soles, students 3.50 soles, children 1 sol.
Page15of34
Zoos & Wildlife

Islas Palominos
The Islas Palominos are a group of small rocky islands just off the coast of Callao that are a
marine reserve and the site of a notorious prison. Boat tours leave Callao almost daily in the
summer and take you to see colonies of sea lions and marine birds. Occasionally there are
boobies and Humboldt penguins. Some tour operators allow you to swim with hundreds of sea
lions. Dolphins can also be seen en route to the islands.
Ave. Arequipa 4960, Miraflores

Lima, Peru 15074
Phone: 1-226-8530
http://www.islaspalomino.com
US$48 adults.
Parque de las Leyendas
Lima's main zoo is home to animals from across the country, hence its slogan "Todo el Peru en
solo un lugar" (All of Peru in just one place). Many visitors limit their sightseeing to the tourist
hubs of Lima and Cusco and therefore completely miss the wildlife of one of the most
biologically diverse countries in the world. The Parque de las Leyendas helps make up for this,
as you can see Amazonian creatures such as giant river otters, spectacled bears and jaguars,
as well as the typical lions, elephants and giraffes. Facilities are not as appealing as those in
North America and Europe, but they are still relatively modern.
Ave. Las Leyendas 580 (San Miguel)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-717-9878
http://www.leyendas.gob.pe
Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. 10 soles general admission.

Parque Zoologico Huachipa
Combining both international and indigenous animals, the second of Lima's zoos contains
more than 300 species along with gardens full of plant species. The train ride around the park is
nice for kids, and there is a small lagoon for a boat trip. There is a restaurant on-site, or you can
pack food to carry into the picnic area.
Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. Adults 12 soles, children 6 soles.
Ave. Las Torres, Ate Vitarte

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-356-3141
http://www.zoohuachipa.com.pe
Recreation
Straddling mountains, desert and coast, Lima has diverse recreational offerings. Although the beaches are polluted and the water cold,
surfing and sunbathing are still quite popular. Some beautiful biking and walking trails can also be found in the hills and on the coast, and a
quality golf course is right in the middle of the city. Horseback riding around the pre-Columbian city of Pachacamac is also possible, as is
paragliding over Lima and the ocean.
Beaches
La Costa Verde
The Green Coast is a long stretch of beaches running between the districts of Magdalena and Chorrillos that is populated with seafood
shacks, health clubs and restaurants. The water is polluted, but during the summer months, the beaches are filled with tens of thousands of
locals swimming, surfing, drinking, playing volleyball, jogging and sunbathing. Wealthy Limenos head to the beaches farther south, where
posh beach houses and private beaches dominate the coastline.
Page16of34
Bicycling
Bike Tours of Lima
Rent a bike on your own or take a tour with this young group of guides who share their insider
bike routes. The half-day tours (two-person minimum) take in urban areas around the city, such
as Lima's historic districts or paths along the Costa Verde.
Calle Bolivar 150, Miraflores

Lima, Peru 15074
Phone: 1-445-3172
http://www.biketoursoflima.com
Peru Bike
One of the country's leading bike-tour operators uses top-quality equipment and well-qualified
guides. Trips from Lima to Pachacamac are the most frequent, but they also take visitors to
places in the near Andes, such as Olleros and Jauja, as well as Ica and Chachapoyas. Trips
vary by distance and skill level, and proper safety equipment is supplied. It can also help plan
your complete biking trip to Peru.
Punta Sal 506 (no sign)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-255-7607
http://www.perubike.com
Steep discounts for groups of four or more.
Golf
Granja Azul Golf and Country Club
The only public course in Lima, this nine-hole course is quite a challenge with a lot of tight shots,
varying terrain and hazards. Service is professional, and the course is nicely maintained.
Caddies are knowledgeable and very helpful. Other facilities include a putting green and driving
range.
Carretera Central Km. 14 Valle Santa

Clara, Ate Vitarte
Lima, Peru
Rates vary.
Lima Golf Club
This private golf course is the best course in all of Lima and can be accessed with a member or
by guests of the Sonesta El Olivar Country Club. The 18-hole, par-72 course is one of the most
prestigious in Latin America and comparable to top courses in North America. A pool, tennis
and squash courts, gym, restaurant and snack bar are also on-site.
Monday-Friday 6 am-9:30 pm, Saturday 7 am-4 pm, Sunday 7 am-3 pm.
Ave. Camino Real 770 (San Isidro)

Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-277-7090
http://www.limagolfclub.org.pe
Horseback Riding
Cabalgatas Peru
This established horseback-riding agency offers tours throughout Lima and Peru. The most
common trip takes visitors across the pre-Columbian pyramid complex of Pachacamac south
of Lima. The well-cared-for Peruvian Paso horses are known worldwide for their unique trot.
The company also offers frequent trips on the beaches south of Lima and longer tours in the
Andes.
Mamacona (Pachacamac)
Lima, Peru
Phone: 519-7534-9004
http://www.cabalgatas.com.pe
Prices vary.
Page17of34
Scuba & Snorkeling

AquaSport
Although there are no reefs along the coast and the water is cold, divers can still enjoy a wreck
dive, a wall dive at Pucusana, and diving with sea lions. AquaSport rents all equipment and runs
day trips. The outfitter also offers a variety of land-based activities such as ATV rentals.
Ave. Conquistadores 805 (San Isidro)

Lima, Peru 15073
Phone: 1-221-1548
http://www.aquasport.pe
Peru Divers
Although the Pacific waters near Lima tend to be cold and have mediocre visibility, the
opportunity to dive with sea lions up close can't be beat. Lucho Rodriguez has more than 20
years' experience in diving and is a PADI instructor and divemaster. He'll take you to the Islas
Palominos to dive with sea lions, as well as Ancon north of Lima or Pucusana Bay and Islas
Paracas to the south to see fish. Certification courses, equipment sales, rentals, repairs and
diving trips are arranged.
Ave. Defensores del Morro 175

(Chorillos)
Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-251-6231
http://www.perudivers.com
Prices vary.
Surfing
Olas Peru Surf School
Olas Peru gives lessons of various levels to students of all ages. The highly respected school
has been around for more than a decade and has received an International Certificate of the
Australian Coaching Council. Prices are quite reasonable by international standards, and
lessons can be arranged on a seasonal, weekly or daily basis. Courses are taught mainly on
Costa Verde in Lima or occasionally elsewhere.
Ave. La Paz 1646, Oficina 102

(Miraflores)
Lima, Peru 15087
Phone: 1-243-4830
http://www.olasperu.com
Pukana Surf School

Located just a short walking distance from Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, this is one of the best
options for learning to surf in Lima. Lessons range from beginner to advanced levels and can
be taken in groups or privately one-on-one. Lessons are generally at Barranquito Beach, but
day trips can be organized to other locations. Equipment rental is also available.
Escuela de Surf (next to Rosa Nautica

Restaurant at Barranquito and Makaja)
Lima, Peru
Phone: 519-9765-4166
http://www.pukanasurf.com
Other Options
Peru Fly
Lima is one of the world's leading paragliding spots, and the coast is lined with options for
airborne daredevils who like floating at levels of 656 ft/200 m and higher. Peru Fly instructors
and other aficionados meet at Parque Raimondi, located on the malecon in the district of
Miraflores, just north of the Parque del Amor. There they launch into the westward wind that
takes them above the city's skyscrapers and the Costa Verde beaches. Peru Fly also offers
kite-surfing and kite-boarding.
Ave. El Reducto 816, Apt. 803

(Miraflores)
Lima, Peru
Phone: 1-444-5004
http://www.perufly.com
Daily 11 am-6 pm.
Nightlife
Page18of34
Lima has a vibrant nightlife scene that spreads to almost every area of town. Nonstop partying goes on until the wee hours of the morning,
but don't expect anyone else to be there if you show up before midnight.
Most tourists will stick to the large clubs and trendy bars in the tourist district of Miraflores, particularly those in Larcomar Shopping Center
and near Parque Kennedy. Miraflores is also home to a smattering of popular expat bars.
The Bohemian quarter of Barranco has some of the most traditional and unique nightlife in the city. Penas (music houses) and one of the
densest bar strips in the city can be found on the edges of Barranco's main plaza. Tourists are discovering this essential Limeno experience
and, in some places, outnumber the locals.
Downtown nightlife, however, is limited to a few seedy clubs and gay bars, and the area can be quite dangerous at night.
Performing Arts
Lima doesn't have the performance art of larger Latin American cities such as Buenos Aires, but it does have its fair share of outlets. The
stylish, grand old classic theaters, such as Teatro Segura, are centered downtown, while smaller, trendier and more avant-garde places,
such as the Centro Cultural PUCP and Instituto Cultural Peruano Norteamericano (ICPNA), can be found in Miraflores, San Isidro and
Barranco.
Lima was left without its major venue when the Municipal Theater burned down in 2000, but it reopened in 2010 after a major renovation. In
that time several other venues stepped up to take its place, although none is quite like the Municipal.
Penas, or folkloric music houses common in Peru, are located throughout Lima and are favorites of foreign visitors. The largest are
downtown and in Miraflores, but the smaller, more authentic ones are in the Barranco district. Many include a buffet dinner and lots of
drinking, which often leads to the audience climbing onstage.
Lima has about 30 cinemas, some of which are of poor quality.
Spectator Sports
Bull-fighting aficionados should note that Lima hosts a festival on Sunday throughout October and November. Other popular sports in Lima
include soccer and horse racing. All have major venues in the city.
Security
Etiquette
Peru is an almost entirely Catholic country and is highly conservative on many issues, although Lima is quite cosmopolitan and much more
liberal than the rest of the country. Public displays of affection between homosexuals are frowned upon, despite Lima's vibrant gay scene.
On the other hand, backslapping hugs (abrazos) are common between men and air kisses are frequent between women or women and
men.
When interacting with Peruvians, it is not wise to bring up politics or government. Talking about the War of the Pacific with Chile or how
much you love neighboring nations is also taboo.
If invited into someone's home, you should always take a small gift, such as a bottle of wine.
Politeness is important to Peruvians. Begin every interaction with a polite handshake and buenos dias or buenas tardes, even if you don't
speak any more Spanish than that.
The title senora is intended for older or married women and might draw a dirty look when applied to a young woman. Use senorita in that
case.
Dress politely when visiting holy sites such as churches. Women should not wear shorts or dresses cut above the knee, and T-shirts and
shorts are frowned upon for the men. Otherwise, fashion is relaxed enough for shorts and miniskirts in places such as Lima or in the Amazon
region.
Page19of34
Personal space is a bit shortened in Peruvian culture, so don't be put off by people standing a bit closer than you are used to in queues or in
other public spaces.
If you are meeting a Peruvian at a designated time, don't be surprised if they are as much as a half an hour late.
Personal Safety
Outside of Miraflores and San Isidro, visitors to Lima should not walk alone at night or take solo taxi cabs. This is especially true of
downtown Lima, which is quite dangerous and impoverished despite significant restoration. Visitors should stick to well-lit streets and
should not take taxis off the street, but rather call them ahead. Hotel taxis are generally the safest, although also the most expensive.
Don't flash your expensive digital camera or jewelry, and always keep an eye on your belongings. In crowded markets, beware of
pickpockets, bag slashers, or even bold groups of bag snatchers. Always be aware of your surroundings.
Health
Most tourist areas in Lima are as safe and clean as any North American city, although some precautions should be taken. The tap water is
never safe to drink. Bottled water is recommended and is served exclusively in restaurants. Food is safe in most instances, although some
foreigners have gotten sick after eating at street stalls and small local restaurants. Avoid ice, salads, fruit juices made with unboiled water,
and raw fruits and vegetables in these places. Most tourist-oriented restaurants are safe.
Visitors to Lima have little to watch out for. The temperature is mild, poisonous plants and dangerous wildlife are nonexistent, and touristoriented locations are generally quite clean. The most common occurrence is a mild case of traveler's diarrhea.
No vaccinations are required to visit Lima, but if you intend to visit Amazon regions, you may want to get up-to-date advice from your doctor
before you go. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) recommends hepatitis A and typhoid shots.
You can obtain a list of English-speaking Lima doctors from your embassy or hotel. In an emergency, try calling the Clinica AngloAmericana, which has English-speaking staff and is open 24 hours. Alfredo Salazar 350 (San Isidro) Lima. Phone 511-712-3000 or 511616-8900. http://www.angloamericana.com.pe.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do try ceviche. The combination of raw fish and seafood marinated in lime juice, onions and chilies is said to cure hangovers and is quite
delicious.
Don't talk about how much you like Chile. Peruvians are very proud of their country and are especially standoffish about Chile, which
defeated Peru in the War of the Pacific more than a century ago.
Do try to speak Spanish. Locals appreciate foreigners who make even a bad attempt.
Don't belch after a meal (or any time). It is considered the worst possible taste.
Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public restrooms don't have any.
Don't use, purchase or carry recreational drugs. Though small quantities of certain substances are actually legal for personal use, most
police officers may not be aware of that fact or of the precise amounts.
Money
Page20of34
Currency Exchange
Peru's economy is surging, so the nuevo sol (often called the sol) is a relatively stable currency and has even made some ground on the U.S.
dollar in recent years.
Many hotels, grocery stores, tourism companies and restaurants also accept U.S. dollars, and it is wise to carry some as a reserve. Ensure
thatdollarbillsareinexcellentconditionwornbillsorthosewithsmalltearsarenotacceptedalthoughPeruviannuevosolbillsareoften
worn and slightly damaged.
Dollars can be exchanged at the airport, banks, casas de cambio (exchange houses) and with official exchange people who can be
identified by their yellow vests and who give good rates. They are found near Parque Kennedy in Miraflores and Parque San Martin in
downtown Lima, among other places. However, count your money carefully before handing over your dollars, because "mistakes" are not
rare. Leave your traveler's checks at home, as rates are bad and they are hard to exchange. Fake soles notes are common, and you should
check each bill for its embedded symbol before finalizing an exchange.
ATMs are commonplace in Lima, particularly in Miraflores, and the easiest way to exchange money is from an ATM using a major bank
card. There will be a small fee, but the rates are similar to banks or currency-exchange booths. Money can be drawn on credit cards, but be
aware of the high interest rates credit cards immediately charge on cash withdrawals.
Most large hotels and major shopping centers have ATMs, and there are a number of banks on Avenida Larco in Miraflores that offer ATMs.
Both U.S. dollars and nuevos soles are often available from ATMs. Banks can be troublesome because of long lines and red tape; casas de
cambio give rates as good and are more convenient, especially outside of banking hours.
Taxes
There is a 19% restaurant tax added to checks at upscale restaurants that are not affiliated with a hotel. They may also add a 10% service
charge. Some restaurants will include the tax in the menu price and will say so. Less expensive restaurants don't add tax.
Higher-class hotels charge a 19% tax; this can be refunded immediately to international travelers who supply a photocopy of their passport.
(Many hotels will make the photocopy for you.)
Other sales taxes cannot be refunded. Airport taxes are charged for internal flights, but the airport departure tax for international travelers is
included in the ticket price.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected in Lima or much of Peru, although in many places frequented by tourists, it has become common. Most Peruvians
will leave no more than a 5% tip at restaurants, although travelers might leave 15%. Many higher-end restaurants will automatically add a
10% service charge. If so, you can and should still leave a small tip of 5% or so.
Expect to tip tour guides about 15 soles-50 soles or more per person per day, depending on the level of service. Trekkers are expected to
tip porters, cooks and trekking guides. Taxi drivers are rarely tipped, although rounding up your fare an extra sol will be appreciated.
Bellboys and skycaps get 2 soles-3 soles per piece of luggage. Indigenous people almost always ask for a tip if you take a photograph of
them.
Weather
The cool Humboldt Current that runs along the Peruvian coast keeps Lima's temperatures fairly mild throughout the year. It can get into the
mid 80s F/high 20s C during the summer months of December-March, but for the rest of the year, the temperature rarely goes above 70
F/22 C or below 50 F/10 C. Rain in Lima is almost nonexistent and precipitation is generally confined to the less than 1 in/2.5 cm annually
generated by the garua, a thick mist that penetrates the city during the winter months.
There really is no best time to visit Lima. If you want to surf or visit the beaches to the south, then go in the sunny summer, but the weather is
mild and pleasant (if cloudy) year-round. The tourist high season is during the Northern Hemisphere's summer months of May-September,
which coincides with Peru's dry season in the Andes and is the best time for camping, trekking and mountaineering.
What to Wear
Page21of34
Latin Americans are used to dressing up on most occasions, especially when going to restaurants, clubs, work and out in general. Suits are
common attire among middle- and upper-class men and senior citizens, although younger generations are more relaxed and jeans are
commonplace. Budget travelers and backpackers are sometimes looked down upon for their scraggly clothes, so having at least one nice
outfit in your bag is recommended. Some restaurants and clubs have dress codes. Churches require a bit of modesty in dress; keep
shoulders covered and shorts and skirts to the knee as least.
Except in the Andes, where thick sweaters and outdoor wear are common among travelers, Lima's mild climate allows for sophisticated and
formal dress as desired. Shorts are rarely worn unless you are participating in athletic activities. A light jacket is necessary, except in
summer.
Communication
Telephone
International and long-distance national calls can be made from pay phones using phone cards or coins. Cards can be purchased from any
small shop, grocery store, gas station, market stall or street vendor. Country and city codes are normally posted in the phone booths. Local
numbers have seven digits, and you do not need to dial the area code for local calls. Cell phone numbers have eight digits and begin with a
9.
Nextel phones from North America work in Lima, but only on their own network. Rates for two-way calls are very reasonable. Direct dialing
abroad from Lima can be very expensive with other cellular companies depending on your rate plan. If you want to call outside the country,
you should visit a long-distance calls booth located in cyber cafes, try Skype or an equivalent from your hotel, or buy a phone card.
For phone information dial 103 (Spanish). For international assistance dial 108 (Spanish). To make an international call, dial 00, then the
country code, city code and phone number. To call from one city to the next, dial 0, then the city code and phone number. To call Lima from
the U.S., dial 011-511 plus the number you want to call. (The final 1 there is the Lima city code.) From other countries, replace 011 with that
country's international access code.
Internet Access
Internet access is widely available throughout Lima by either Wi-Fi or in Internet cafes. You should never have trouble finding Internet service
in Lima. Most hotels have Wi-Fi or a business center, though in large international chain hotels fees can be several times more than in
Internet cafes.
Internet cafes are found all over the place, especially in Miraflores, and cost about 2 soles per hour of use. Several large Internet cafes can
be found in the buildings surrounding Parque Kennedy. Starbucks locations are sprouting across the city and offer wireless service, as do
many other cafes.
Mail & Package Services

FedEx
Expensive, but best for international shipping. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. Calle Martir Jose Olaya 260 (Miraflores).
Lima, Peru 45804. Phone 1-242-2280. http://www.fedex.com.
Serpost
Serpost is Peru's privatized mail carrier. It isn't always reliable for sending valuable or large packages, but for letters and postcards it works
perfectly fine. Monday-Friday 8:15 am-8:15 pm, Saturday 9 am-1:30 pm, Sunday 8 am-4 pm. Rates are more expensive than in North
America. Pasaje Piura (downtown). Lima, Peru 15100. Phone 1-511-5110. http://www.serpost.com.pe.
Page22of34
Newspapers & Magazines

El Comercio is Lima's best-known newspaper and has the most complete coverage (http://www.elcomercio.com.pe). La Republica is
respected for its investigative journalism and is more liberal (http://www.larepublica.com.pe). Many smaller, less professional publications
focus on sports, business and gossip.
The literary journal Etiqueta Negra is famous throughout Latin America and often has articles (in Spanish) by well-known North American
and European writers (http://www.etiquetanegra.com.pe). English-language newspapers and magazines, often a few days old, can be found
at the airport and from vendors near Parque Kennedy.
The magazine Rumbos (http://www.rumbosonline.com) is a good source of information for travel and nature in Peru and is written in both
English and Spanish. For up-to-date entertainment information, check Somos, a Saturday insert in El Comercio.
Transportation
Lima's size and traffic can be intimidating, but getting around the city is easier than you might think. Most travelers who go to Lima avoid
renting cars, as it creates more problems than benefits. Taxis and tours are the best way to see the city, and they are very affordable. Taxis
are absolutely everywhere and wait outside every hotel and tourist attraction.
Public transportation is a challenge for tourists. The small, crowded microbuses that fill every street follow highly specific routes and are
used mainly by Lima's working classes. Adventurous tourists enjoy using public transportation occasionally, and will find that the locals will try
tohelpifyouspeakSpanish.
A modern bus line, the Metropolitano, offers 38 stops on two routes (nearly identical with a varying center portion) that include regular and
express service. Payment is made with a rechargeable card available at all stations. The Lima Metro, known locally as the Tren Electrico, is
a light-rail system that was long in development. Line 1 (of 4 planned) went into service in 2011 and connects Villa El Salvador in the south
to downtown Lima. It uses a prepaid card system similar to the Metropolitano bus. The remaining three lines are scheduled to be completed
by the end of 2016.
Tours will take you to many of Lima's tourist sights in a day and can be booked through your tourist agency or hotel. They tend to be
significantly more expensive than a day of taxis, but many people prefer them for less hassle and the benefits of an English-speaking guide.
Every neighborhood in Lima can be explored on foot and, in many cases, major attractions are located near one another. Most of the sights
downtown are actually easier to get around on foot, as traffic during the day is at a standstill on nearly every street. In Miraflores, San Isidro
and Barranco, we recommend walking to give you the chance to take in the parks and shops that line the streets. The problem is getting
from neighborhood to neighborhood and to some of the outlying museums, such as the Gold Museum.
Bus
Most major bus companies in Peru have their hubs in Lima. There is no central bus station, but the majority of hubs are located downtown or
along the Via Expressa or Javier Prado in San Borja near Miraflores.
There are literally scores of companies with terminals around the city. Many are very small and only have a few routes, but the largest
operate throughout the country and to international destinations. Ormeno and Cruz del Sur have the best buses and offer routes to nearly
every part of the country. Don't hesitate to use others if they prove more convenient, but be aware that they may not be as comfortable.
CIVA
Paseo de la Republica 575. Lima, Peru. Phone 1-418-1111. http://www.civa.com.pe.
Cruz del Sur
Javier Prado Este 1109, San Isidro. Lima, Peru 15023. Phone 1-311-5050. http://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe.
Ormeno
Javier Prado Este 1059, San Isidro. Lima, Peru 15034. Phone 1-472-1710. http://www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe.
Page23of34
Car
Lima's polluted, congested streets are no place for visitors to drive, so rental cars are usually out of the question unless you intend to explore
a highly specific, nearby region. If you must drive, you will have to do some of the most defensive and offensive driving of your life. Lima
drivers pay no attention to who or what is beside them. Be prepared to use your horn frequently. Driving is on the right side of the street.
Speed limits are rarely posted outside highways (where they average 50-62 mi/80-100 km per hour), but given the amount of traffic, it is rare
that you will even have the opportunity to speed.
The main highways are the Pan-Americana (north to south on the eastern edge of the city) and the Via Expressa (direct from Miraflores to
downtown). Smaller arteries cover major routes such as Javier Prado (Miraflores to the eastern suburbs) and Avenida Arequipa (from
Miraflores to downtown). A convenient and scenic road also runs along the beach between Chorrillos in the south and San Isidro in the north
with ramps in Miraflores and Barranco.
Parking on streets is technically free in Lima, although unofficial attendants will watch your car while you are away and expect a few soles
change when you leave. They are usually reliable. Parking is not complimentary at malls and shopping centers. You must take a ticket when
you arrive and pay a small fee when leaving.
Public Transportation
Public transportation in Lima works well enough to get hundreds of thousands of Limenos to where they need to go, but it is a challenge for
tourists. Thousands of small vans and buses clog traffic and dart in and out of every street in the city. A few routes are convenient for
travelers. They run 24 hours a day and cost 0.50 soles-2 soles per trip.
A modern bus system called the Metropolitano runs two nearly identical lines through the city. The central terminal is on Paseo de la
Republica at Plaza Grau near downtown Lima. Until the lines are expanded, however, tourists won't find much use for it. Many visitors prefer
to stick to taxis.
Line 1 of the light-rail service called Metro de Lima or Tren Electrico, the first line of an anticipated four, runs from Villa El Salvador in the
south to downtown Lima.
Taxi
Taxis are a visitor to Lima's best friend. They can be found everywhere and are incredibly cheap. Rides start at about 6 soles for short
distances, and prices should be negotiated beforehand, as meters are not used. From Miraflores to the airport will be at least 35 soles.
Black taxis (often unmarked) in front of major hotels are significantly more expensive. Many drivers are from the Andes and do not always
know their way around Lima, so you should always have the address of your destination written down. Very few drivers speak English.
Some safety precautions should be taken, particularly for women: Don't take taxis alone at night and be sure to only take taxis from
respected agencies that you or your hotel desk have called to pick you up.
Train
Lima has one train station that is only used sporadically during a few weekends a year. The service departs Desamparados Station to the
Andean city of Huancayo on Thursday or Friday and returns on Sunday to Lima. The historic route goes through the second-highest
passenger train station in the world, reaching 15,681 ft/4,781 m before dropping to Huancayo at 10,644 ft/3,244 m. (It used to be the world's
highest until China opened its line to Tibet.) Round-trip fares are 195 soles-350 soles.
Estacion Central de Desamparados
Jr. Carabaya and Jr. Ancash (downtown). Lima, Peru. Phone 1-226-6363. http://www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe.
Events
Calendar
The Peruvian Independence celebration, or Fiestas Patrias, is held 28-29 July, and festivities in Lima include parades and fireworks.
Parties are held across the city, and many locals take the time to travel around the country.
Page24of34
Religious celebrations are quite common. El Senor de los Milagros, or the Lord of Miracles (18 October), is Lima's largest annual festival
and one of the largest religious processions in the Americas. Tens of thousands of people gather at the Las Nazarenas church in downtown
Lima and parade through the streets in a passionate display of devotion. The revered image of Christ was painted centuries ago by an
Angolan slave, and it is believed to protect against earthquakes.
Fiesta de Lima (or Festival of Lima), held on 18 January, features processions celebrating Lima's founding.
The Santa Rosa de Lima festival (Saint Rose is Lima's patron saint) takes place on 30 August. Processions depart from the Santuario de
Santa Rosa de Lima, a small church at Avenidas Tacna at Callao in downtown Lima.
Semana Santa, or Holy Week, is less important in Lima than in Andean cities, but the event is marked with religious processions throughout
the capital. Many of Peru's other religious festivals are marked with colorful parades in Lima.
The bullfighting season takes place every October and November around the Plaza de Acho bullring across the Rio Rimac from downtown.
The bullring is the oldest and most important in the Americas, and the best toreros, or bullfighters, from Spain perform during the month of
festivities that also includes parties and numerous special events.
Mistura, Peru's annual gastronomic festival held in the Parque de la Expocision, has become the city's signature event. The week-long event
features chefs from around the country who sell their favorite dishes and give lectures, potato growers and other vendors who exhibit their
goods, and a variety of entertainment. Entrance tickets are available at the gate or through Teleticket, and food tickets can be purchased
inside the event. http://www.mistura.pe.
The most reliable source for event listings in Lima is PromPeru, the official tourist board. It maintains monthly listings for all parts of Peru.
http://www.peru.travel/en.
C u s c o ,
P e r u
Cusco, Peru
Overview
Introduction
Located about 370 mi/600 km southeast of Lima, the city of Cusco, Peru, is the ancient
capital of the Incan Empire, situated high in the Andes.
There are numerous versions of the Incan creation myth. One legend says that Manco Capac
and his sister-consort, Mama Ocllo, descended from the sun and settled on the Island of the
Sun (Isla de Sol) in sacred Lake Titicaca and founded the Inca empire in Cusco, creating the
huancaypatatoday'sPlazadeArmasasthesymboliccenteroftheempire.TheInca
word cusco means "navel" or "center."
As the most-visited city in Peru, Cusco (also sometimes spelled Cuzco or and Q'osqo)
serves as the center of the tourist trade, with more than 2 million visitors annually.
Cuzco Plaza
See & Do
Sightseeing
A fine church to visit in Cusco is La Merced, which has a solid-gold monstrance (case for the Host) covered in jewels. The church is open for
services in the morning and again late in the afternoon. The complex of La Merced also contains a monastery, although women are not
allowed to enter the monastery.
Some of the most important sights in Cusco include ancient Incan ruins, such as the Tambomachay ritual bath, the Q'enco (amphitheater of
sacrifices)andthefortressesofPucaraandSacsayhuaman(itsthreeancientcentraltowersasymboloftheempireweredestroyedby
the Spaniards). The sun-worshipping ceremony of Inti Raymi takes place at Sacsayhuaman on 24 June each year.
Page25of34
Also visit the archaeological museum, which has an excellent display of Incan artifacts. But spend some time just walking around town, too:
Now and then it still feels ancient. The mix of old with modern, handwoven with machine-made is fascinating.
When you arrive in Cusco, you may want to buy a visitor's ticket, or Boleto Turistico, at the tourist office: It will let you into more than a dozen
ruins and museums.
Historic Sites
Puca Pucara
The ruins of Puca Pucara were once an impressive Inca military fortress that served as a defensive outpost for the city of Cusco. The site is
located about 4 mi/6 km outside of Cusco on the road to Pisac.
Q'enco
Q'enco (various spellings including Q'inqu and Qenko) is another Incan archaeological site located just outside Cusco. The site is dotted
with natural and manmade rock formations and chambers of various shapes and sizes. It was probably used for religious ceremonies and
sacrifices. It is located about 3.5 mi/5.5 km northeast of Cusco.
Qorikancha
The Qorikancha (Qurikancha) was one of the most revered and important temples in the entire
Inca Empire, with walls once covered in gold. Tragically, Spanish colonists destroyed the
temple to build their own on top of it. Today, the original and spectacular Incan stonework forms
the base of what is now the Church of Santo Domingo.
Plazoleta Santo Domingo

Cusco, Peru
Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 2-5 pm. 10 soles.

Sacsayhuaman
Construction of Sacsayhuaman dates back to the Killke culture circa 1100, and was later expanded by the Incas, who turned it into an
impressive fortified complex overlooking their capital. The massive walls provide an excellent example of Incan stonemasonry. It is possible
to walk to Sacsayhuaman from Cusco.
Tambomachay
This Inca archaeological site, also known as El Bano del Inca (the bath of the Inca), features a series of stone aqueducts and canals running
through terraced rock platforms. The exact purpose of the site is uncertain, but it may have functioned as a religious site or a retreat for the
Inca elite. Tambomachay is located a few miles/kilometers north of Cusco and can be reached by taxi (about 20 soles) or by local bus.
Museums
Choco Museo
This is a fun stop in Cusco. You can watch chocolate being made and even learn how to do it
yourself at one of the two-hour workshops. There's also a small gifts area with chocolates and
chocolate-related items.
Calle Garcilaso 210, Second Floor

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-8424-4765
Daily 10:30 am-6:30 pm. Free.
http://www.chocomuseo.com
Page26of34
Museo de Arte Precolombino

This small museum offers a fascinating collection of pre-Columbian artworks, pottery and other
artifacts. Its parent museum is the excellent Museo Larco in Lima.
Daily 9 am-10 pm. 20 soles.
Plazoleta Nazarenas 231

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 84-233-210
http://map.museolarco.org
Museo Inka
This is the best museum in Cusco for anyone looking to learn more about the Incas. Among the
many artifacts you'll see mummies, ceramics, textiles and gold work. The museum building is
also one of the finest examples of colonial architecture in Cusco.
Cuesta del Almirante 103

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-8423-7380
Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm. 10 soles.
http://museoinka.unsaac.edu.pe
Religious Sites
Cusco Cathedral
Cusco Cathedral is hard to miss: One of Cusco's most magnificent buildings, it dominates the
Plaza de Armas. Construction of the cathedral began in 1550, on top of the site of an Inca
palace. As well as the impressive architecture inside and out, the cathedral also houses many
of Cusco's finest pieces of colonial art.
Plaza de Armas
Cusco, Peru
http://www.cuscovirreinal.com
Daily 10 am-6 pm. 25 soles.

La Merced
The colonial Templo de La Merced was built in the first half of the 16th century, but was
destroyed in the earthquake of 1650. It was soon rebuilt, and today stands as a testament to
Spanish colonial religion and the opulence of the Old World church. La Merced is known for its
solid gold monstrance, its paintings and for being the final resting place of Diego de Almagro
and Gonzalo Pizarro, two of the most famous conquistadors.
Mantas 121
Cusco, Peru
Monday-Saturday 8 am-noon and 2-5 pm. 10 soles.
Other Options
Cusco Planetarium
Considering the Incas' fascination with astrology and cosmology, Cusco is an appropriate
place to look at the stars. At the Cusco Planetarium, you'll have the chance to look at the night
sky in the same way as the Incas, learning the names of their constellations, both light and dark.
Advance reservations are often necessary.
Groups normally meet at Plaza Regocijo at 5:40 pm. 30 soles.
Inside the Reserva Ecoturfstica Privada

de Llaullipata, a short ride outside of
Cusco on the road toward
Sacsayhuaman
Cusco, Peru
http://www.planetariumcusco.com
Recreation
With its towering mountains, well-worn trails and river-cut gorges, the Cusco region is the perfect place for a number of outdoor activities.
Cusco is a popular base for trekking, especially along the famous Inca Trail, which takes you through dense cloud forest, ancient Incan
outposts and the great Urubamba gorge. Mountain biking is an increasingly popular activity, as is horseback riding.
Page27of34
Cusco is also Peru's top white-water rafting destination, with rapids ranging from grades one to five. And if that's not enough adrenaline for
one holiday, try some ziplining in the Sacred Valley, home to some of the world's longest lines.
Bicycling
Peruhasdevelopedamountainbikingtourismindustryandwiththeruggedterrain,wherebetter?ThereismountainbikingoutofCusco.
Quechua Bikes
Quechua Bikes offers a wide range of biking tours in and around Cusco, ranging from four-hour
city tours (US$35) to seven- or eight-hour endurance and downhill excursions in the Sacred
Valley (US$130-$150). Difficulty levels range from beginner to experienced mountain biker.
Quiscapata 666
Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-8425-6284
http://www.perubiking.com
Boating & Sailing

Activities Peru
Activities Peru takes people white-water rafting on the upper Urubamba River, with rapids
ranging from class III to class IV depending on the time of year. The agency also offers
paintballing and canyoneering.
Urb. Bancopata C-1/Calle Ramon Castilla

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-952-717-555
One day of rafting (8 am-5 pm) costs US$55; the three-day excursion (with potential class IV+
and class V rapids) costs US$299.
http://www.activitiesperu.com
Hiking & Walking

Cusco is a popular base for trekking, especially along the famous Inca Trail, which takes you through dense cloud forest, ancient Inca
outposts and the great Urubamba gorge.
The Inca Trail
This 26-mi/40-km trail wends its way from the vicinity of Cusco to the citadel of Machu Picchu. It
ranks among the most spectacular in the world, rewarding the fit traveler with a string of
impressive Inca ruins, stunning mountain vistas and varied environments. The trek usually takes
four days. Only a few operators in Cusco are licensed to organize the hikes, and you must
contracttheirservicesyoucan'tgoindependently.
Cusco, Peru
http://www.incatrailperu.com
Packages include transportation to the trailhead (located beyond Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley) from Cusco, all meals, snacks and
drinks, all camping equipment, entry to the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary and a ticket for the train ride back to Cusco. The trek
stretches across two 13,120-ft/4,000-m passes, so it is wise to acclimate for a while in Cusco before the hike. The dry season runs roughly
April-October, and the trail is busiest in July and August. The trail is closed for maintenance during the month of February.
With the popularity of the Inca Trail, authorities have limited trek permits to 500 people total, including guides and porters, per day. Travelers
must book several months in advance (in peak season it's wise to book as much as six months early). If you don't book in time, or want to
trek other routes, consider the four- to five-day trek to the ruin of Choquequirao, or the Salkantay trek, which is a longer and tougher route
culminating in Machu Picchu. A shorter, two-day version of the Inca Trail, ending at Machu Picchu, passes through the ruins of Winay Wayna.
Page28of34
Horseback Riding
Horseback Riding Cusco
Horseback Riding Cusco was founded by a father-son team with more than 20 years of
experience training and breeding horses in Cusco. You can choose from a number of tours,
including day tours on horseback to various Incan ruins; the "mystical" tour to Incan temples; and
the once-a-month full moon tour.
US$40-$60 per person.
Urb. Balconcillo K-10

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-966-747-459
http://www.horsebackridingcusco.com
Other Options
Maras Adevnture
Maras Adventure operates two of the longest ziplines in the world: the Eye of the Jaguar and
Flight of the Condor. Both lines are located in the Sacred Valley, with tours leaving from Cusco.
US$45-$55.
San Isidro, Los Pinos G-15

Cusco, Peru
Phone: 51-8422-8362
http://www.marasadventure.com
Security
Personal Safety
Most visits to Cusco are trouble-free, but you should take precautions and be alert at all times. Most crime consists of pickpocketing and
purse snatching, so whenever possible, don't take a bag, and keep items such as wallets in your front pockets, preferably zipped. If you must
take a bag, keep it close to you and don't leave it unattended, especially in airports and bus terminals. It is recommended that you don't go
out alone late at night (after 10 pm), especially away from the Plaza de Armas and other main squares, except by taxi (and ideally with a
friend). It's always safer to order a taxi through your accommodations rather than flagging one down on the street.
There have been rare incidences of choke-and-rob attacks against tourists, especially women traveling alone, who should be extra cautious
at night.
The major tourist sites in and around Cusco and the Sacred Valley are generally safe, but travelers who are planning to venture beyond
major tourist areas should contact the Cusco Tourist Police (phone 84-221-961) or the South American Explorers (Av. Pardo 847, Cusco;
phone 84-245-484) upon arrival. Your embassy can provide an up-to-date list of places around the country considered dangerous and
where official government travel has been restricted.
Tourists may register complaints on a national 24-hour hotline, provided by iPeru. Call 01-574-8000. The tourist police station in Cusco,
Peru is on Calle Saphi 510.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
It is imperative that visitors take it easy the first day or two in Cusco. The city's high altitude (11,000 ft/3,350 m) can cause soroche, or
altitude sickness, in people who have just arrived from Lima, which is at sea level. Some people need as much as three days. You may
experience altitude sickness (nausea, headaches, insomnia, dizziness, loss of appetite and general malaise), which can be serious. Drink
plenty of liquids, avoid alcohol and smoking for the first few days, and see a doctor if symptoms seem extreme or persist (you may have to
return to a lower altitude).
Cholera is no stranger to Peru. Fueled by poor sanitation, the disease is spread by contaminated water, raw seafood (including ceviche)
and unsanitary preparation of food. Except in the more deluxe establishments in Cusco, sanitary conditions in restaurants can pose
problems for travelers. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe (especially if it's included on a package tour). You should peel fresh fruit
Page29of34
and raw vegetables before eating. In addition, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly, avoid local dairy products and assume tap water and
ice are unsafe (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). If you eat street food, make sure it is cooked in front of you.
Malaria is not present in high-elevation areas such as Cusco and Machu Picchu. Vaccinations for yellow fever, hepatitis and typhoid are
recommended but not required. Take along all prescription medicine needed for the trip.
For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do find some time to relax in Cusco's main plaza. It's an enjoyable place to sit and watch the world go by, with a backdrop of Inca and
colonialSpanisharchitecture,andbeyondthat,theAndes.Butdon'trelaxtoomuchtheplazaisalsoahangoutforpickpocketsandpetty
thieves.
Don't throw toilet paper down the toilet; use the trash can next to the seat.
Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public places and restaurants don't provide it.
Don't assume anyone speaks English or that raising your voice will help them understand your foreign tongue. While tour guides and other
tourism industry professionals often speak excellent English, many locals don't speak a word of it.
Don't take close-up photos of locals without first asking their permission. Traditionally dressed women and children (often accompanied by
llamas) stand on street corners waiting for tourists to take their photo; they expect a tip for this privilege.
Doconsultyourlocalcamerastoreabouthowtotakepictureswherethere'slotsofglareapolarizingfilterwillimproveyourphotography
greatly. Also mention that you'll be at high altitudes.
Do take plenty of water with you wherever you go in the Andes. You can quickly become dehydrated at such high altitudes.
Money
Currency Exchange
Peru's currency is the nuevo sol, available in bills of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 nuevos soles. It has been relatively stable to the dollar in recent
years. When exchanging dollars, take crisp, new, untorn bills. Money changers and banks will refuse to change even slightly damaged notes.
TrytoacquiresmallbillswheneverchangingmoneythereseemstobeaconstantshortageofchangeinPeruviancities,andCuscoisno
exception.
Don'tacceptbillsthataretornortapednomatterhowslightlybecausealmostnoonewillacceptthem.Counterfeitingisaproblemin
Cusco. Check your bills by holding them up to a light. You should see a watermark and a very small strip that says Peru 50 or Peru 20,
depending on the denomination of the bill.
It's best to pay in cash whenever possible. Restaurants and hotels often levy a service charge (about 6%) for processing a credit card. Also,
you can bargain for discounts in cash, but rarely with plastic.
Page30of34
Taxes
Avalueaddedtax(VATcalledIGVinPeru)of19%isaddedtoallsales.Youwon'tpayitforcashtransactionsinplacessuchasmarkets
and street stalls. Sales tax should be included by restaurants on the menus, but some add both sales tax and a 10% service charge to your
bill,soit'sbesttocheckifindoubt.(It'stotallylegalyoujustdon'twanta29%surprise.)Cheaperrestaurantsoftendon'tbotheradding
anything.
Hotels may also append sales and service charges to bills; foreign travelers can present a photocopy of their passports and the 19% IGV
will not be charged (first-class and luxury hotels will often make the photocopy for you). Less expensive hotels may not bother charging the
IGV.
Tipping
Most restaurants in Cusco do not include a tip with the bill, nor do waiters expect a large tip. In most restaurants, Peruvians leave a small 5%
tip (or a couple of soles), though in fine-dining restaurants in Cusco, a 10%-15% tip is becoming increasingly common. Peruvians in
inexpensive restaurants almost never tip.
Skycaps and bellboys get about 2 soles per bag. Leave housemaids about 2 soles-3 soles per night in first-class hotels. Taxi drivers are not
normally given a tip. Tour guides and crew (drivers, porters and the like) are tipped roughly 15 soles-50 soles per tourist per day for tour
guides, depending on the quality of the tour, and the same amount divided among the crew.
Weather
Temperaturesarefairlystableyearroundit'scolderinthehighlandsandhotinthelowlands.TherainyseasonisOctoberApril,andmost
travelers go during the dry months that coincide with North American and European summer vacations. Many Peruvians travel during this
time as well, especially for the national holidays in late July, when prices can double.
The dry months are by far the best for camping and climbing trips in the Andes. The heaviest rains in the highlands are January-April, and
disruptions in bus traffic because of landslides can be severe, especially in February and March.
Be sure to take a sweater (or something heavier) when you go to Cusco and Machu Picchu. A rain poncho is also useful both in the city and
out on the trails. The best times to visit are May and September, missing the busiest tourist months and skirting the rainy season, but you
can go year-round and have a wonderful time.
What to Wear
In the Andes, you should take precautions against both the plummeting temperatures at night and the high UV radiation during the day (longsleeved shirts protect against sunburn better than T-shirts; also wear a sunhat and strong sunscreen). At Machu Picchu in particular, there is
very little shade, so take extra precautions to prevent sunburn. At these high altitudes, fleeces are essential, as is a decent hat (woolly ones
are available on every street corner).
Communication
Page31of34
Telephone
Cell phone use is widespread in Peru, having reached many rural areas far sooner than traditional land lines. You can rent cell phones by the
day, and they are inexpensive if you are planning on staying in Peru for more than a month. Cell phone numbers all begin with 9.
Claro and Movistar are the two major networks in Peru, and both are available in Cusco. If you have an unlocked GSM (Global System for
Mobile) phone, you can buy a SIM card from a Claro or Movistar store in Cusco (you'll see them everywhere). SIM cards cost 15 soles-20
soles. Once your SIM card is in and connected, you can purchase credit in the store and it will go directly to your phone. Later, you can topup from regular stores all over Cusco, just look for any tienda or bodega with a Claro or Movistar recargas sign. If you don't have a cell
phone, both Claro and Movistar sell simple phones for as little as 70 soles.
Public phones are very common in all towns and cities; in addition to the official-looking ones, you may find small boxes lurking in
convenience stores. These public phones are either coin-operated or use prepaid cards that can be bought in almost any corner store. The
cardshaveaphonenumberandacodethatyoudialininstructionsareusuallyinSpanish.EverydepartmentinPeruhasaseparatethree
digit area code prefix, with the first digit 0 (for example, Cusco department is 084).
Internet cafes often offer voice-over Internet calls, and you'll find small stores for making international calls. These are generally cheap and of
acceptable quality, and far, far cheaper than making calls from your hotel room.
Internet Access
Internet cafes cater to tourists and locals in Peru, so you should have no problem finding one in Cusco. Internet access is widely available,
even in some remote areas, but connection speeds tend to decrease (often dramatically) the farther you are from the city. Per-hour rates
start as low as 1 sol, but 2 soles is standard in better Internet cafes. Connection speeds and quality of equipment can vary greatly. If you're
traveling with your own laptop, you'll find plenty of cafes and some restaurants that provide Wi-Fi connections free of charge, as long as you
buy something.
Most hotels in Cusco provide Wi-Fi without a fee; however, some international chain hotels add a service charge. Some Internet cafes won't
let laptop users connect directly to their networks, but most will. Wi-Fi is not common in public areas.
Cafeteria Siete & Siete
If you want to Skype family back home and show them an impressive view across Cusco, take a stroll with your laptop to Cafeteria Siete &
Siete (run by the Pension Alemana Hotel). It's a cozy and comfortable cafe with great coffee, excellent views and fast Internet connections.
Calle Tandapata 260. Cusco, Peru. Phone 51-8422-6861. http://www.cafeteria7y7cusco.com.
Transportation
Cusco is a great city to explore by foot, but you'll also find inexpensive taxis everywhere. Small buses and minibuses provide a great way to
get to nearby towns and villages, making independent travel a fairly straightforward process (especially after a little practice). Car rentals are
an option, but are generally unnecessary.
Bus
Many backpackers arrive in Cusco by long-distance bus, either directly from Lima or via popular destinations such as Nazca, Arequipa or
Puno. Buses arrive and depart from the Terminal Terrestre del Cusco not far from the center of town (Ave. Via de Evitamiento 429). Small
buses and minibuses (variously called colectivos, micros and combis) connect Cusco with towns and villages throughout the Cusco region.
Fares are cheap and the ride is normally comfortable, unless the bus is overcrowded.
Taxi
Taxis in Cusco don't have meters, but typically charge a set rate of 3 soles for trips within the city center (4 soles-5 soles later at night). If you
need to take a taxi further afield or late at night, it's best to have your hotel or hostel call a registered taxi service. Crooked or unlicensed taxi
drivers have been known to mug or rape their passengers, with solo female passengers at greater potential risk. If you want to call a reliable
taxi service yourself, phone Alo Cusco at 84-222-222.
Page32of34
Train
Cusco is connected to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes) by train from Poroy Station. PeruRail trains leave every morning between
6:40 am and 9:05 am (the last departure being the luxury Hiram Bingham train). Further connections can take you to Ollantaytambo and
Urubamba. There's also an expensive 10-hour train route heading southeast from Cusco to Puno and Lake Titicaca.
Events
Calendar
Cusco hosts some of Peru's biggest and best events. With its history dating back to the 14th century, Cusco provides the perfect venue for
religiousandraucouscelebrations.
On the Monday before Easter, Cusco's cobblestoned streets and central Plaza de Armas open to a procession commemorating the
earthquake of 1650.
Inti Raymi is Cusco's largest and most important festival. Held on 24 June, the Festival of the Sun simultaneously celebrates the winter
solstice and the sun itself, a prominent god in Inca culture. The all-day parades and street dances culminate with the re-enactment of the
Indian winter solstice festival, including the sacrifice of a llama, just outside the city at the naturalistic site of Sacsayhuaman. Travelers from
all over the world go to participate in this festive yet reflective demonstration of Peruvian culture and living heritage.
I q u i t o s ,
P e r u
Iquitos, Peru
Overview
Introduction
Iquitos is known as the gateway to the Amazon basin. The city lies on the banks of the mile/kilometer-wide Amazon River in the middle of dense, flat jungle, some 635 mi/1,020 km
northeast of Lima. Sights include a floating market (known as Belen, or Bethlehem) and some
interesting shops selling Amerindian goods. Remnants of the rubber-boom days can be seen
intheazulejoshandmadetilesimportedfromPortugal,whichwereusedtodecoratethe
mansions of rubber barons (also notice the imported lacy cast-iron balconies). Visit the
house of Peruvian rubber baron Fitzcarraldo, made famous by the Werner Herzog movie of
the same name.
Near the plaza is an iron house designed by Gustav Eiffel that was transported to Iquitos after
the Paris Exhibition of 1898. Close by are beautiful Lake Quistococha and protected nature
reserves, including Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria. It's one of the largest protected areas
inPeruandhometofreshwaterdolphins,turtlesandmonkeys.(Anentrypermitisrequired
get one from any Iquitos tour agency.)
Wooden houses in jungle town of Iquitos
Iquitos requires only one night to see everything, but visitors often use it as a base for escorted tours to jungle lodges or river cruises. The
toursrunonetosevendayssomeofthelodgesareonlyanhourfromtownbyboat.ThetoursusuallyincludevisitstotheBorasorYaguas
people (who use blowguns). Some tour operators offer crocodile sightseeing at night. Hearty travelers can also book hiking and camping
tours, which forego the lodges for more primitive campsites and long, humid jungle walks.
Visitors to Iquitos can also go on to the Explorama Canopy Walkway, which requires a two-day trip into the interior by boat. Both a tourist
attraction and a research center, it has a covered walkway strung among the trees, more than 100 ft/30 m above the ground.
A r e q u i p a ,
P e r u
Arequipa, Peru
Page33of34
Overview
Introduction
Sparkling in the sun, Arequipa is called the White City because of the sillar, a white volcanic
stone that makes up its buildings, modern ones as well as Spanish colonial. Peru's secondlargestcitysitssurroundedbytoweringmountainsincludingthe19,000ft/5,800mvolcano
El Misti.
The city itself is the home of the monastery of La Recoleta (with a museum and library) and
several interesting churches, but its highlight is the Santa Catalina Convent. Built in the late
16th century (but closed to the public until 1970), it was a self-contained community, a place
where nuns could worship and live without leaving the convent. Walk through the wellpreserved structure, soak up the peaceful atmosphere and discover the tiny, secluded plazas
and lovely courtyards within.
From Arequipa, take a guided tour of Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world
Arequipa City Street
(10,500 ft/3,191 m deep). (Day trips are possible, but they require many hours in a bus and
are not recommended; two- or three-day trips are preferable.) Several local agencies arrange two-day trips with pleasant overnights in rural
hotels. A journey to the canyon offers a view of extensive pre-Incan and Incan agricultural terracing, some of which is still farmed today, as
well as a chance to see Andean condors at Cruz del Condor, a lookout point.
Adventurous travelers can follow in the footsteps of the chasqui, the Incan foot messengers, and trek the canyon. The Cotahuasi Canyon is
more remote than the Colca, but it is the deepest in the world, with stretches as low as 10,857 ft/3,300 m. It is located 125 mi/200 km
northwest of Arequipa. Or visit the Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca, a nature reserve with stunning lakes and salt flats,
located high in the surrounding mountains. The area is about 465 mi/750 km southeast of Lima by air. By road, the distances are closer to
625 mi/1,000 km.
I c a ,
P e r u
Ica, Peru
Overview
Introduction
The city of Ica is set in the middle of dune-filled deserts, 160 mi/260 km southeast of Lima, on
the banks of the Ica River. It is locally renowned for its grapes, wineries and pisco distilleries
(tours can be arranged). The grape-harvest season runs February-April. The surrounding
desert sand dunes are popular with sandboarders, particularly in the oasis of Huacachina.
The Regional Museum in town has Nazca, Paracas and Inca artifacts (we particularly liked
the mummies). Nearby is the Paracas National Reserve, the best shorebird sanctuary in
South America. It's also home to Andean condors, as well as sea lions.
Paracas is on the Pacific coast, 32 mi/60 km west of Ica. Several international resorts
operate on the coast of Paracas and have turned it into a base for exploring the surrounding
region. A few miles/kilometers north of Paracas, the Ballestas Islands, with literally millions of
Huacachina oasis in Ica desert
seabirds including Humboldt penguins, can be visited by boat tours (landing is prohibited).
Plan at least one night, more if you want to visit wineries, see seabird sanctuaries and go sandboarding.
Page34of34

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Amazon Rain Forest

Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries

Hiking & Walking

Mail & Package Services

Newspapers & Magazines

Colonial-style architecture is found throughout downtown Lima.

Huaca Pucllana Pyramid

General Borgono Cuadra 8, Miraflores

Ave. Bolivar 1515 (Pueblo Libre)

Daily 9 am-10 pm. Adults 30 soles, seniors 25 soles, children 15 soles.

Plaza Bolivar (Pueblo Libre)

Paseo Colon 125 (downtown)

Museo Oro del Peru

Neighborhoods & Districts

Parks & Gardens

Paseo Colon, Avenida Wilson, Paseo de

Jr. de la Union 621 (Historic City Center)

Plaza San Francisco (downtown)

Zoos & Wildlife

Ave. Arequipa 4960, Miraflores

Ave. Las Leyendas 580 (San Miguel)

Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. 10 soles general admission.

Ave. Las Torres, Ate Vitarte

Calle Bolivar 150, Miraflores

Punta Sal 506 (no sign)

Steep discounts for groups of four or more.

Carretera Central Km. 14 Valle Santa

Ave. Camino Real 770 (San Isidro)

Scuba & Snorkeling

Ave. Conquistadores 805 (San Isidro)

Ave. Defensores del Morro 175

Ave. La Paz 1646, Oficina 102

Pukana Surf School

Escuela de Surf (next to Rosa Nautica

Ave. El Reducto 816, Apt. 803

Daily 11 am-6 pm.

Mail & Package Services

Newspapers & Magazines

Plazoleta Santo Domingo

Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 2-5 pm. 10 soles.

Calle Garcilaso 210, Second Floor

Daily 10:30 am-6:30 pm. Free.

Museo de Arte Precolombino

Plazoleta Nazarenas 231

Cuesta del Almirante 103

Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm. 10 soles.

Daily 10 am-6 pm. 25 soles.

Monday-Saturday 8 am-noon and 2-5 pm. 10 soles.

Inside the Reserva Ecoturfstica Privada

Boating & Sailing

Urb. Bancopata C-1/Calle Ramon Castilla

Hiking & Walking

Urb. Balconcillo K-10

San Isidro, Los Pinos G-15

Wooden houses in jungle town of Iquitos

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