Club 420 Class

Rigging Manual

Performance sailcraft 2000 Inc

2555 Dollard
Lasalle, Quebec, H8N 3A9
Tel: 514 363 5050
eMail: info @ps2000.ca
Website: www.ps2000.ca

Mast set up
Remove the pole and unwrap the
spreaders. Mount them in spreader
bracket with the thick side of the
airfoil facing forward. Put the clevis
pins in from the top with the split ring
under the bracket. Remove the
shroud retainer clips from the end,
slip in the shroud and replace the
clip. Put the screw in from the top.
(Both sides of the spreader are
tapped so the screw goes in from
either side).
Next examine the installation of the
jib halyard block. We may have used
a washer under the cotter pin to
make sure that the cheeks are held
closely together to prevent the wire

placed over the whole assembly and

heated . If you replace or disassemble, re-tape the area.

on the class Website in the Tuning

Tips section.
www.club420.org/rigtips.htm

The mast has been foamed in the

area shown between the two dotted
lines. This has been done to ensure
the watertight integrity of the mast. All
rivets in the mast are either closed
end or are sealed with a bedding
compound after installation.

Set the boat up with supports under

the hull that will allow a person to
stand in the boat without it moving
around. Stepping can be done by a
single person from outside the boat
but, if the mast is in the partner and
you loose it, you will destroy the
partner!
It is better to stand the mast up and
hand it to someone in the boat who
will then position it over the step and

Mast Installation

jumping the sheave. If you ever

remove the sheave be sure to put
back the washer. Also, examine the
shroud and trapeze wire attachment.
They are on the same tang as
shown. A shrink wrap tube is then

Make sure all the halyards are loose

and accessible from the deck once
the mast is up. They are normally run
in their proper positions at the factory
but do not try and sort them out at this
point because they will be rigged
properly using the directions that
follow.
Make sure the clevis pin is in the
second hole from the front. This is the
position that has been found to be
the most effective and it places the
mast in the position recommended

drop it in place. There is a vertical

groove in the mast casting and this
goes OVER the pin.

a second pin in the top of the

chainplate which must be removed to
allow the shroud to pass. Replace
this after pinning the shroud as it is a
safety device if the main pin happens
to come loose (It happens!)

Position the mast in the partner and

attach the forestay to the centre pin
in the bow fitting. The mast can now

Running the halyards

be released. It will fall back in the

partner but will not fall out. Now
attach the shrouds to the saddles
and tape up all the split rings. If you
do not they will eventually catch the
jib sheets, spinnaker sheets and
spinnaker cloth. We suggest you
start in the third hole down in the front
(the closed, curved side). There is no
magic to this position but it is a good
starting point that gives a good feel
to the helm. For more rake, take the
pins lower. You will note that there is

Both the Jib and Main halyards are

purple, high-load, Marlow Spectra
line. Cleat the jib off on the port side
of the mast and the main on the
starboard. Tensioning them will be
done later in the rigging sequence.
The Spinnaker halyard is blue
Spectra and is lead through a swivel
block above the hounds. We suggest
you rig it with the attachment to the
spinnaker coming down on the port
side of the hounds and the lead to
the skipper coming down on the
starboard side. This end is passed
through the opening in the partner in
front of the mast , then to the bottom

block on the side of the mast . See

above. From there it is lead straight
back to the aft end of the centreboard cap where it can be cleated
off. See following photo. The other

end is rigged, typically, outside the

jib, through the guy hook, then to the
spinnaker head in the bag.
The Topping lift is red Spectra and
passes through a non-swivelling
block on the front of the mast. Make
sure the hook end of the line is
coming out of the front of the pulley.
The other end goes down through
the partner and then to the second
cheek block up from the bottom of
the mast. See bottom photo, column
2. From there it is lead up through
the centrecase cap to the forward
most Clamcleat on the starboard
side of the cap.
The hook end, is tied off to the retractor shockchord that comes from
the back of the boat and up through
the fairlead in the partner.

Setting up the boom

Remove the clevis pin from the
universal square tube of the gooseneck and attach the tube to the
bracket on the mast. Once in place,
tape over the split ring as shown.
Take the main halyard, tie it to the

The topping lift is adjusted so that,

when hooking up the pole, it will set
approximately parallel to the water. It
will then be readjusted for the conditions after the spinnaker is set. When
the pole is not in use, the hook will lie
about 10 below the ring fitting.

Trapeze wires
Performance Sailcraft do not deliver
their boats with trapeze rings unless
specifically requested to do so as
there is a safer alternative available.
The following photos show the rigging of the key balls for the
Bethwaite harness which does not
use a hook. If rings are used, the
green adjusting line goes through the
top of the ring instead of the eye in
the keyball system.
The retractor shockchord is supplied
a little on the long side to allow for
any configuration. When adjusted,
wrap the end tightly with tape, cut
with a sharp knife in the middle of the
tape and burn the end with a match.

First, pass the green adjusting line

from the Clamcleat through the
thimble on the keyball then back up
through the cleat after passing
through the black rectangular spacer.
Pass the shockchord through the
thimble and tie a VERY TIGHT,
simple overhand knot in the end of
the shockchord - so tight that you
cant pull it off the end! Then tie it off
as shown above and finished below.
This will prevent the thimble and
keyball from inverting. Repeat on the
other side of the boat but experiment
with the length before you cut off the
excess.

outhaul line at the end of the boom,

set the boom level and tie off the
halyard. This exercise could also be
done after the mainsail is hoisted if
there is not too much wind. Reeve
the purple mainsheet, (which is
shipped in the spinnaker bag),
through the blocks on the boom as
shown.

loop at the front end of the outhaul so

that it can be reached, and pulled on,
from either side of the boom at the
end of a reach or run. It is a little
stiffer on port tack but it works, particularly if you put a little sun screen
on the line!

Rigging the vang

Make sure that the blocks are
aligned fore and aft then lock them in
that position. They usually leave the
factory fully swivelling but there is a
small, flat, red locking tab which can
be pushed across the block to lock it
on either 90 degree axis.
The red outhaul is already rigged.
After the mainsail is eventually
hoisted, undo the line at the outhaul
block, pass it through the clew
cringle then tie it off on the deck strap
on top of the block. Leave a long

The blue vang has been pre-rigged

and attached to the mast but it can
still be tricky to rig. Fully rigged, the
3-part cascade looks like the picture
below.

The boom should still be held up by

the main halyard, or sail. Attach the
single block with the shackle (the first
part) to the boom as above. This will
leave a single piece of line, with a
block attached (the third part) coming
off the bottom block attached to the
mast. You will find a blue line in the
boat on the port side of the board
box with its end attached to nothing

in particular. Pass this end through

the block on the third part and take it
back to the rear Clamcleat on the
port side of the centrecase top. In the
event that you have to replace this
line, it is dead-ended at a deckstrap
directly under the mainsheet block
and held in place with the mainsheet
block fasteners. A simple knot is tied
in the end of the line so that it can be
removed without untying anything.
The photo below is a view of the
underside of the centrecase top.
Note the spinnaker halyard exit
bushing. You will see later that this
deckstrap is shared with the centreboard uphaul.

A close up of the bottom block and

its attachment is shown below with
the first and second parts coming off
the shackle and the third part off the
block.

Rigging the jib

The aqua jib sheet (shipped in the
spinnaker bag) is supplied as a
continuous sheet which can be cut
or rigged to provide individual
sheets. We suggest it be attached
as shown below with a clove hitch
through the cringle. Mark the centre
of the sheet before starting.

will be under tension when the jib

halyard is tightened. You may not
want this!

Tensioning the jib

If it is not already reeved, pass the
end of the halyard through the cheek
block at the bottom of the mast on

tension if they are re-configuring the

rig, on the water, between races.

the port side then back up and

through the in-line block in the halyard as pictured below.
Take the line back down and pass it

Attach the jib luff wire to the rear pin

position and attach the halyard
shackle to the head of the jib. You
will notice when you first attach your
jib that the jib luff is tighter than the jib
wire which means that the luff cloth

through the open space in the centre

of the cleat.
From there, take it back to the in-line
block and pass it through the becket
on the block to which the bottom part
of the halyard is also attached. It is a
tight squeeze but it raises the purchase on the halyard to 5:1 from 3:1
and allows crews to get really good

From this point, take the line down to

the cleat and tie it off. Put the tail in
the pocket of the spinnaker bag.
The cloth of the 420 jib is seized to
the wire at the tack and tied off at the
top to the thimble in the wire. As
delivered, tension from the jib halyard automatically puts tension into
the cloth of the jib and is equivalent to
having a jib Cunningham tightened
all the time. This is not normal in light
air as it is preferable to have the
cloth relaxed so that the draft is not
pulled too far forward in the jib.
Adjustments can be made at the top
of the sail by loosening the line and
using it like a Cunningham to relax or
tension the cloth for the conditions.
The tensioning and knotting system

you use must be simple enough to

make changes fairly easily after
lowering the halyard. The operation,
and effect, of this is really no different
to the mainsail Cunningham - its just
a little harder to do!

as shown in the following picture.

Some Club 420s use a stainless ring
knotted into the halyard but this is as
effective, particularly if you put sunscreen in the end of loop.
Pass the halyard around the cleat

It is possible to reverse the procedure and permanently fix the top of

the sail to the wire (like the old jibs)
and have an adjustment at the deck,
as below. The disadvantage is that
the skirt of the jib is not always as
close to the deck as possible which
is probably the most desirable
configuration.

A word of caution in light air. If you

happen to use and old main with a
tack grommet and use this extra
purchase to hoist the main as high
as possible you will OVER tension
the luff (like having too much
cunningham) and the draft will be too
far forward for light air. The extra
purchase is to facilitate the hoisting
and tying off of the main. It should
NOT be thought of as a luff tensioning device. This is the job of the
cunningham.

At this point there will be no numbers on the sail but you MUST put
them on before going sailing while
the sail is still clean and without too
many wrinkles. Placement of the
numbers is shown at the end.

Rigging the cunningham

The red cunningham line is knotted with an overhand knot at one end
and passed from back to front
through the channel in the Clamcleat
where it is dead-ended. Pass it up
through the cringle then down to the
dead eye on the port side of the

Rigging the mainsail

Check that the top batten is properly
tied in then thread the foot of the sail
into the boom and attach the outhaul.
Fix the tack with the tack pin on the
boom at the gooseneck. Hoist to the
top then make a loop in the halyard

and back up through the loop.

Tension firmly, tie off on the cleat and
stow the tail in the pocket of the
spinnaker bag

Starboard
side

Systems, controls and

features
Port side

mast going from front to back. Pass

it back through the cringle, being
careful not to override the first pass
then back down to the Clamcleat.
This will give a 4:1 purchase but it will
still be necessary to put a loop in the
end so that the crew can use two
hands, if necessary, in heavy air
conditions.

Centreboard system
The boat is shipped with the centreboard installed. If you take out the
board you will find that the pin hole is
bushed with an anodized aluminum
sleeve glued in with Plexus. The pin

The board is operated by a red up

haul and down haul, both using the
same rope. The down haul runs from
a trip cleat (more on its operation
later) on the port side of the centrecase top , through a fairlead to the
tongue of the board where it is knotted then passed through the hole in
the tongue.

passes through a stiffening plate to

prevent a point load when tightening
the nut to make waterproof. When

replacing the pin, place a ring of

sealant around the pin on the inside
surface of the aluminum only. The
rubber washer will seal off any leak
around the pin.

The line is knotted on the other side

of the board where it now becomes
the uphaul. It then passes down
through an exit box in the cap of the
centrecase.

Once through the cap, the end is

attached to a single block. A second
red line, which is dead-ended under
the back of the cap, is then passed
through the block and back up
through the cap to a CAM cleat. The
reason for this type of cleat, as
opposed to the Clamcleat is that the
rope will run free, unattended, once
released and the crew does not have
to hold it to keep it from jamming.

Bailer operation

Hiking straps and traveller

A word about the bailer. We have

had a policy for 30 years of never
putting a steel bailer in a dinghy that
can turn over because of the very real
risk of a severe cut , usually to the leg
or thigh of a crew sliding over the
side. For this reason, the PS2000
C420 uses the IYE plastic bailer and
its operation may be unfamiliar.

The traveller bar has been made

round to reduce the bruising resulting
from accidental leg, shin contact.
The padded hiking straps are held
up to the traveller bar by an adjustable strap that is tabbed off on
Velcro. This tab can be used to
adjust the height of the strap between the bar and the thwart but
does not adjust the overall length of
the strap. The pictures below show
the strap both open for adjustment
and tabbed off.

1. Raise the bar of the swinging lock

2. This leaves the bailer unlocked

This picture shows the vang (blue),

and the c/b downhaul (red), sharing
the deckstrap under the cap.
The angle of the rope from the
tongue of the board to the exit box is
fine for sailing but it does not hold the
tip of the board firmly in the box.
When through sailing, wrap the line
once around the tongue to be able to
pull the board ALL THE WAY UP.

3. Push down the chute all the way

To hold the straps outboard, a line is

run from the bridle eyestrap, under
the traveller, through the webbing
loop then knotted. It can be adjusted.
4. Raise by pulling up then push the
swinging lock over until it clicks shut

The straps are kept tensioned and

off the floor by a shockchord loop that
runs from an eye on the transom
down around the adjustment rope
assembly and back up to the eye.
Extra shockchord is provided so that
adjustments can be made.

Above, the straps held in place.

Below , the simple bridle system.
The bridle is attached to a shackle
at each end and the shackle is
attached to the existing eyestrap.
The height of the straps is adjusted

by the yellow hiking strap adjuster

rope. One end is tied off at the deck
strap. The other goes through the
loop in the straps, back through the
eyestrap then is tied off on itself in a
bowline, Adjust this end of the line
for height because the other has the
topping lift shockchord retractor
attached to it. See bottom picture.

Rudder Assembly
The rudder blade is assembled to
the rudder stock with a pure spectra
downhaul and tensioning block
already attached. If the assembly is
dismantled, make sure upon reassembly that the tensioning line
goes over the plastic bushing at the
top of the rudder head and under the
one at the bottom in front of the
blade. To get the blade completely
away from the head, the knot in
downhaul (which ends in the rudder
blade) or the splice holding the block,
must be undone.
Attach the rudder assembly as

shown. It may be convenient to place

the blade in the up position and
secure there by tightening the black
locknut which we have placed on the
port side of the rudder head. This
may be reversed if the starboard
side is found more convenient. Use

this nut to hold the board up while

launching and retrieving, loosen to
place the board in the fully down
position and re-tighten to remove all
slack in the assembly. Do not sail
with the nut loose. It puts too much
strain on the cheeks and the blade
and, besides that, you will lose it!
Before sailing the boat check that the

rudder retaining tab is properly

adjusted. When mounting the rudder
onto the lower pintle, the tab should
snap over the gudgeon and up
against the pin. However, there
should be enough space to allow the
retaining tab to be pushed forward
out of the way, to remove the rudder,
without hitting the gudgeon. This
space should be about 1/16 in.
Adjust using the screws - the holes
on the tab are slotted.

cleat it off. Re-tighten the locknut.

If the rudder runs aground or comes
in contact with a significant obstacle,
the trip cleat will open up as shown in
the previous picture.
The trip pressure is adjustable but
our experience is that it should
remain at the minimum. If you wish

Fit tiller into rudder head and pass

the cotter pin through the tiller, making sure that it also goes through the
rudder head on the underside.

Pass the line from the cleat through

the block and take it back to the
cleat. Once the boat is in the water,
loosen the lock nut on the rudder
head, pull the line firmly tight and

to check the operation, gently pry the

cleat open with a flat screwdriver and
observe the position of the cam. Also
check that the set screw is firmly
tightened. - the cam must be held
from turning when the screw is tightened. Do not over tighten or you will
strip it! Snap back into place.

Spinnaker sheets
The white spinnaker sheets are
shipped in the spinnaker bag. Most

crews prefer to use a continuous

sheet with the two ends tied off at the
clews. The only disadvantage is that
there is always a sheet across the
centre of the boat. The sheet is
shipped as a single line allowing for
this. It may be cut to provide two
individual sheets.

Sail numbers
Safety cleat
closed

Safety cleat
tripped

Sail number eights are supplied

with the sails and can be cut to form
any number. Place on the sail as per
the photograph, starting about 1 inch
below the second batten pocket, as
per Class rules and not closer than
2 1/2 to the leech. They must be 12
high (as supplied).
MAKE SURE THE SAIL IS
ABSOLUTELY CLEAN AND DRY
BEFORE APPLYING.
Also, try and keep your fingers off the
glued surface as much as possible.
You must use the sail number allocated to you as it is linked to the
Association number of the boat
which attached inside the transom.