Ireland 8 County Cork - v1 - m56577569830517620

Lonely Planet Publications
199
County Cork
Flung out on the far-western reaches of Ireland, Cork comes very close indeed to the mistyeyed vision of the country many visitors hold in their imagination.
Follow the countrys three bony-fingered peninsulas out into the Atlantic and youll find
an epic, wind-lashed coastline riddled with vibrant seaside villages, their harbours bustling
with fishing boats bringing home the days catch.
Meander east and youre swept along by half a millennium of struggle and turbulence,
the tide of history leaving an enduring mark on the towns of the south coast. Away from
all this potentially overwhelming drama, the gentler, rolling hills of the north ooze a more
sedate charm.
And, of course, theres Cork city, nonchalantly pushing Dublin out the way as it swaggers into the 21st century. If you want cocktail bars, modern-art galleries and avant-garde
theatre, theyre all here.
What will stay most with you, though, in both city and countryside, is that stomping livemusic session in a creaky old pub, that meal of the finest, freshest Irish produce, and the
steady humour of a population fiercely proud of its past and confident of its future.
COUNTY CORK
HIGHLIGHTS
City Spectacular Buzzing Cork city, with its
great selection of restaurants (p207), pubs

(p209), music (p210) and theatres (p209)
I Want to be AloneThe stunning coastal
road around the Beara Peninsula (p239)

Taste of the West Some of the best food to
be had along Corks southern coast, from

Kinsale (p218) to Clonakilty (p223)
Gougane Barra Magic Unexpected splen-
dour in inland Cork, with mountainous

forests and a glacial lake (p231)
Beara
Peninsula
Gougane Barra
Forest Park
Kinsale
Castletownbere
Clonakilty
Glandore
Union Hall
Baltimore Castletownshend
Ahoy There! Unspoilt fishing villages, in-
cluding Union Hall (p227), Glandore (p227),

Castletownshend (p227), Castletownbere
(p242) and Baltimore (p229)
POPULATION: 481,000
Cork
AREA: 7508 SQ KM
200 C O R K C I T Y H i s t o r y
lonelyplanet.com
flurry of urban renewal that began with the

citys stint in 2005 as European Capital of
Culture continues apace, with new buildings, bars and arts centres springing up all
over town. The best of the city is still happily traditional though snug pubs with live
music sessions most of the week, excellent
local produce in an ever-expanding list of
restaurants and a genuinely proud welcome
from the locals.
CORK CITY
%021 / pop 119,000
Cork buzzes with the energy of a city thats

certain of its place in Ireland. Indeed, so
confident is the former Rebel City that
locals only half-jokingly refer to it as the
Peoples Republic of Cork. The city has
long been dismissive of Dublin and with a
burgeoning arts, music and restaurant scene,
its now getting a cultural reputation to rival
the capitals.
The River Lee flows around the centre, an
island packed with grand Georgian parades,
cramped 17th-century alleys and modern
masterpieces such as the opera house. The
HISTORY
Cork has a long and bruising history, inextricably linked with Irelands struggle
for nationhood.
The story begins in the 7th century,
when St Finbarre founded a monastery on a
lonelyplanet.com
C O R K C I T Y O r i e n t a t i o n 201
corcach (marshy place). By the 12th century

the settlement had become the chief city
of the Kingdom of South Munster, having
survived raids and sporadic settlement by
Norsemen. Irish rule was short-lived, and by
1185 Cork was under English rule. Thereafter it changed hands regularly during the
relentless struggle between Irish and Crown
forces. It survived Cromwellian assault only
to fall to that merciless champion of Protestantism, William of Orange.
During the 18th century Cork prospered,
with butter, beef, beer and whiskey exported
round the world from its port. A mere century later famine devastated both county
and city, and robbed Cork of millions of its
inhabitants by death or emigration.
0
0
COUNTY CORK
Ballyheigue
N21
Abbeyfeale
Banna
Mullaghareirk
Mountains
N21
Castlegregory
Dingle
Peninsula
Annascaul
Lougher
Lispole
Inch
N70
Castlemaine
Newmarket
N23
N22
Ballydesmond
Farranfore
Kanturk
Kerry Airport
KERRY
Annagh
Bog
N22
N72
Killorglin
Dingle
Bay
Glenbeigh
Rossbeigh
Strand
Killarney
Muckross
Derrynasaggart
Mountains
Ring
Tahilla
Parknasilla
er
Riv
Lough
Allua
Gougane Barra
Lake
Rathcormack
N72
Lismore
Tallowbridge
Youghal
Killeagh
Youghal
E30-25
Fota Wildlife
Bay
Park
Midleton
Knockadoon
Ballymaloe
Passage
Great
Head
House
West
Cork
Island
Shanagarry
Airport N27
Cloyne
Cork
Ballycotton
Cobh
N71
Harbour
Bay
Ballycotton
Ringaskiddy
Blarney Cork
N22
Rive
r Lee
N22
Beal-na-Blth
Shehy
Mountains
are Lauragh
nm
Caha
Ke
Mountains
Ballyduff
Blackwater River
N72
72
To Waterford (60km);
Rosslare (108km);
Dublin (180km)
Crookstown
Gougane Barra
Forest Park
Beara
Peninsula
E201-8
Fermoy
N72
Boggeragh
Mountains
Macroom
N70
Knockmealdown
Mountains
E201-8
Kenmare
rry
of Ke
Clogheen
Ballyporeen
N20
N71
Sneem
raile
kw
c
Bla
Millstreet
Mitchelstown
Nagles
Mountains
er
Riv
N22
Killarney
National
Park
Iveragh
Peninsula
ate
Longueville
House
Kanturk Castle
Mallow
N72
Ardfinnan
Burncourt
N73
Buttevant
Doneraile
To Dublin
(160km)
N8
Ballinhassig
Crosshaven
Power
Head
Innishannon
ndon
Glengarriff
Ba
N71
Kealkill
Sugarloaf
Healy
Bandon
N71
Pass
Mt (575m)
Ballylickey
Kinsale
Dunmanway
Eyeries
Hungry Hill
Harbour
N71
Copper
Whiddy
(686m)
Cod's Mines
Adrigole
Island
r
Slieve
Bantry
Kilbrittain
e
Head
v
Bandon River
Miskish Castletownbere
Ri Drimoleague
Timoleague
Bantry Sheeps
Allihies Mountains
Head
Bere
Cable
Bay
Clonakilty
Courtmacsherry
Durrus
Peninsula
Car
Island
Mt Seefin
Ring
(334m) Ahakista
Mt N71
Butlerstown
Leap Rosscarbery Inchydoney
Gabriel
Dursey
Seven
Kilcrohane
Mizen (407m)
Clonakilty
Island
Heads
Ballydehob
Castlefreke Bay
N71
Head
Sheep's
Glandore
N71
Dunmanus Peninsula
Drombeg
Head
Skibbereen Union
Dunmanus
Stone
Hall
Bay Toormore
Schull
Lough
Circle Galley
Hyne
Head
Three Castle Goleen
Castletownshend
Barleycove
Head
Baltimore
Roaringwater
Toe
Brow Head
Bay
Head
Sherkin
Crookhaven
Mizen
Cape
Island
Head
Clear
Clear
Illen
Riv
e
Ardgroom
Fastnet
Rock
Island
Kinsale
Summercove
Sandy Cove
Ballinspittle
Garrettstown
Old
Head of
Kinsale
St George's
Channel
To Swan
sea
To
F
ran
ce
ORIENTATION
The city centre lies on an island in the
River Lee, which is crisscrossed by bridges.
St Patricks St runs from St Patricks Bridge
on the North Channel of the Lee, through
the citys main shopping and commercial
area, to the Georgian Grand Pde that leads
to the rivers South Channel. North and
south of St Patricks St lie the citys most
entertaining quarters: webs of narrow
streets crammed with pubs, cafs, restaurants and shops.
Across St Patricks Bridge is an equally
bustling area, focused around MacCurtain
St, with its own spread of pubs, restaurants
and shops. East of MacCurtain St, youll find
Kent Train Station and budget B&Bs. West
of Bridge St is Shandon, which has a village
atmosphere, especially in the narrow lanes
around its hilltop churches.
From midway down Grand Pde, Washington St leads southwest to the university.
INFORMATION
Bookshops
Connollys Bookshop (%427 5366; Rory Gallagher Pl,

Paul St) Great chat and masses of secondhand books.
Liam Ruisal Teo (%427 0981; 49-50 Oliver Plunkett
St) New and secondhand books, including plenty on Cork.
Mainly Murder (%427 2413; 2A Paul St) Crime novels
galore.
Vibes & Scribes (%450 5370; 3 Bridge St; h10am6.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-6.30pm Sun) Four floors of books,
CDs and DVDs. Also on Lavitts Quay.
Waterstones (%427 6522; 69 St Patricks St;
h9am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-8pm Fri, noon-6pm
Sun) Has the best travel section in the southwest.
Emergency
Mercy University Hospital (%427 1971; www.muh
.ie; Grenville Pl)
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
N70
Cahersiveen
Waterville
Rathmore
N72
Lough
Macgillycuddy's Leane
Reeks
Kells
Ballahoura
Mountains
er
Castleisland
Slieve
Mish
Camp Mountains
Kilcummin
N20
All
ow River
Ri v
Tralee
Blennerville
Ballylanders
Charleville
e
Feal
N69
Tralee Fenit
Bay
Brandon
Dromcolliher
r
ive
Ardfert
20 km
12 miles
Galtee
Mountains Cahir
rR
Ta
Ballyheigue
Bay
To Limerick (26km);
Galway (125km)
The Rebel Citys deep-seated Irishness

ensured that it played a key role in Irelands
struggle for independence. Mayor Thomas
MacCurtain was killed by the Black and
Tans in 1920. His successor, Terence MacSwiney, died in Londons Brixton prison
after a hunger strike. The British were at
their most brutally repressive in Cork
much of the centre, including St Patricks
St, the City Hall and the Public Library,
was burned down. Cork was also a regional
focus of Irelands self-destructive Civil War
in 192223.
Horg
a n' s
y
Qua
Lower
44
33
Kent 46
Station
Penros 93
e's Qua
y
t
Alfred S
Alfred St
72
75
l
Pau
St
Lavitt's Quay
12
76
Maylor
St
42
16
90
MacCurta
11
i n St
77
49
St Patrick
's Quay
St Patricks
Bridge
River Le
e North Ch
annel
32
Mercha
nt's Qu
ay
See Enlargement
36
35
17
67
ll
Ma
th
Nor
uay 79
r's Q
o
l
he
ac
22
45
34
St
e
W
St
lerd
Mil
v l l e Pl
Gren i
e ll
's W
day
Sun
Cathedral Rd
Rd
Su
s
ay'
nd
Ave
To Blarney
Castle (8km)
r
Vica
St
ttan
Gra
St
ds St
W oo
St r's
a
FinbRd
ll
CORK
Cross St
55
Hi l l
mer
Sum
Rd
ton
ng
lli
We
rk
a
ey P
dn
43
Sha
ndo
n
ey St
Blarn
St
Donovan'
s Rd
30
Ander
son's Q
uay
uay
95
ria Q
lunkett
Victo
er P r
OlivSt Lowe
t
9
51
tle S
St P
ay
Cas 73
86
a tr i c
ay
Qu
Banks of the
k ' s St
57
es
Vi
River Lee Wa lk w
To Cork City Gaol;
p 's
ear St
Rd
ct
10
h
ay
S
Lap
or
r in a
National Radio
rt Qu
ia 23 Ma
83
65 52
Albe
Museum (100m)
ll
t St
t
Rd
Ma
15
in S
nket
u
b
l
h
t
l
o
S
P
t
T
P
l
ton
er
S ou
hing Ha
Albert8 Rdmmet
ne
Oliv
Tennis
54
nover St 81
Was
E
63
an
e
3 89
87
50
Courts
19
y
e Pd
Ch
y
Dyk
h
t
t
80 r Qua
91
Cricket
Maylor
S
u
64
l
St
Ground
62
s te
So
Pau
nca
P
a
48
k
l
L
de
Wa
21
e
k
13
rdy
18
40
Fitzgerald Ma
53
2
88
14
24
38
1 k's St
82
Park
G eo
Quay
ri c
61
n's
rge'
60
St Pat 47
Rd
37
Sulli va
sQ
Cove St
tern
70
ua y
y
25
71
Wes
a
u
ton
ch Q
59
Washing
Fren
St
St 68
St
nix
To West Cork;
nkett
31
Phoe
56
28
r Plu
Killarney (87km)
92
e
e
v
St 66
li
O
Av
85
t
e
a
D
S
n
t
h
bey St
g
Bishop
St
7
l Ab
Doug 6
n au
Gil
las S 26
LuceyPark
Con
rr a
84
41
try
t
Ba
us
Rd
58
ge
nd
e
I
l
l
Co
all
To Hayfield
69
M
96
th
4
Manor (500m);
Sou
Curraheen Greyhound
74
5
Park (4km)
Towe
r St
94
27
Quake
0
100 m
Rd
r Rd
To Cork Airport (8km)
78
on
nd
Ferry Terminal (18km);
Ba
Kinsale (42km)
e Rd
Glanmir
in
Ma
h
Sout
St
a in
f o rd St
29
20
Do
min
ick
St
et St
m ar k
St
iar
Fr
d
Gran
S h a r m an C
raw
Shandon
n
ee
gr
er
Ev
Bisho
p
n St
orga
tM
St
COUNTY CORK
er
Rob
ck
Rd
Pde
t
a S
lese
Ang
St
er
Grand
las
ah
St
L
Pautl a
rt S
A l be
Paul's Ave
C O R K C I T Y D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 203
Internet Access
Money
Webworkhouse.com (%427 3090; www
The banks on St Patricks St have ATMs

and currency exchange. There are bureaux
de change in the tourist office and at the
bus station.
.webworkhouse.com; 8A Winthrop St; per hr

1.50-3; h24hr) Plus low-cost international
phone calls.
Wired to the World (%453 0383; www.wired
totheworld.ie; 28 North Main St; per hr 1; h9ammidnight Mon-Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) Also at Thompson
House on MacCurtain St, and Washington St.
Post
Main post office (%485 1042; Oliver Plunkett St;
h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist Information
Left Luggage
Theres no left-luggage facility at the train
station.
Cork Bus Station (%450 8188; cnr Merchants Quay &
Parnell Pl; per item for 24hr 2.70; h7.45am-midnight
Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat year-round & Sun in summer)
Libraries
Cork City Library (%492 4900; www.corkcitylibrary.ie;
57-61 Grand Pde; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Cork City Tourist Office (%425 5100;

www.corkkerry.ie; Grand Pde; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat,
10am-5pm Sun Jul-Aug, 9.15am-5pm Mon-Fri & 9.30am4.30pm Sat Sep-Jun) Souvenir shop and information desk
with plenty of brochures and books about the city and
county. Stena Line Ferries (see p719) has a desk here.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Cork cherishes its reputation as being a less
hard-skinned place than Dublin, but watch
St
INFORMATION
Allied Irish Bank...........................1
Bank of Ireland............................2
Connolly's Bookshop...................3
Cork City Library.........................4
Cork City Tourist Office..............5
L-Inc........................................... 6
Liam Ruisal Teo.........................7
Mainly Murder............................8
Mercy University Hospital...........9
Other Place.............................. 10
Vibes & Scribes......................... 11
Vibes & Scribes......................... 12
Waterstone's.............................13
Webworkhouse.com.................14
Wired to the World.................. 15
Wired to the World...................16
Wired to the World.................. 17
F3
E3
E3
E4
E4
D4
F4
E3
B3
C3
D2
C2
E3
F3
C3
E2
C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Beamish & Crawford Brewery... 18
City Hall....................................19
Cork Butter Museum.................20
Cork Public Museum................ 21
Cork Vision Centre................... 22
Crawford Municipal Art Gallery..23
Holy Trinity Church.................. 24
Lewis Glucksman Gallery.......... 25
Munster Literature Centre........ 26
Nationalist Monument..............27
Red Abbey Tower..................... 28
Shandon Craft Centre...............29
St Anne's Church......................30
St Finbarre's Cathedral............. 31
Statue of Father Mathew.......... 32
C3
E3
C1
A3
C2
F3
D3
A3
D4
E4
D4
C1
C1
C4
D2
SLEEPING
Aaran House Tourist Hotel........33
Acorn House............................ 34
Auburn House...........................35
Br Bar & Hostel........................36
F2
D2
E2
E2
Cork International Hostel.......... 37

Crawford House....................... 38
Emerson House..........................39
Garnish House.......................... 40
Imperial Hotel...........................41
Isaac's Hotel............................. 42
Kinlay House Shandon..............43
Oaklands...................................44
Sheila's Hostel...........................45
Tara House................................46
Victoria Hotel............................47
A4
A3
F1
A3
F4
D2
C1
F2
E2
F2
F3
EATING
Amicus Caf & Restaurant.........48 E3
Boqueria................................... 49 D2
Butter Market Caf.................(see 29)
Caf Glucksman.....................(see 25)
Caf de la Paix..........................50 B3
Caf Gusto................................51 E3
Caf Gusto............................... 52 C3
Caf Mexicana..........................53 E3
Caf Paradiso............................54 B3
Crawford Gallery Caf............(see 23)
Currans..................................... 55 C2
English Market..........................56 E4
Farmgate Caf........................(see 56)
Fenn's Quay.............................57 C3
Isaac's Restaurant...................(see 42)
Ivory Tower...............................58 E4
Jacques Restaurant....................59 F4
Quay Co-op............................. 60 C3
Quay Co-op Organic & Wholefood
Shop...................................(see 60)
Scoozi's.....................................61 F3
Strasbourg Goose......................62 E3
Triskel Caf...............................63 C3
DRINKING
An Spailpn Fnac..................... 64 C3
Chambers................................. 65 C3
Crane Lane Theatre...................66 F4
Franciscan Well Brewery............67

Hi-B..........................................68
Loafers..................................... 69
Long Valley...............................70
Mutton Lane Inn.......................71
Sin ......................................... 72
Suas.......................................... 73
B2
F4
D4
F3
E3
D2
C3
ENTERTAINMENT
An Cruiscn Ln........................ 74 D4
Cork Arts Theatre..................... 75 D2
Cork Opera House................... 76 D2
Everyman Palace Theatre.......... 77 D2
Flux........................................(see 36)
Fred Zeppelins...........................78 F4
Gate Multiplex.......................... 79 C2
Granary.....................................80 B3
Grub Caf-Bar........................(see 10)
Half Moon Theatre.................(see 76)
Havana Browns.........................81 C3
Instinct......................................82 C3
Kino..........................................83 B3
Liquid Lounge...........................84 F4
Other Place............................(see 10)
Qube........................................85 E4
Redz..........................................86 B3
Savoy........................................87 F3
Scotts........................................88 F3
Triskel Arts Centre..................(see 63)
Vibes.........................................89 E3
SHOPPING
Living Tradition......................... 90
O'Connaill.................................91
Plugd Records...........................92
Union Chandlery.......................93
D2
E3
E4
E2
TRANSPORT
Brittany Ferries Office................94 E4
Cork Bus Station........................95 E2
Rothar Cycles........................... 96 C4
COUNTY CORK
abr
Mu t t on La
Co rn
rt
No
ra n
Gur
St
Nic
ho
St Patrick's Hill
Bridge S
t
hn St
Upper Jo
s
rince
i t e St
l l ' s Q u ay
St
lonelyplanet.com
Wh
C ar r o
ugh
boro
Marl
it y
th C
Sou k Rd
Li n
York St
Si
St
im
St
hrop
n St
Wint
orga
e rt M
Rob
k St
Coo
n St
St
my St
h
ade
Ac Churc
s
ey'
nch
Fre
Car
La
Ship
St
tr
L ei
Gre
ling
e St
rok
Pemb
M o r ri
River sLon's Qua
ee
0
0
Bow
St
St
To N25; Fota Wildlife Park

(10km); Cobh (15km);
Midleton (20km);
Youghal (45km);
Waterford (126km)
Rosslare (208km)
39
line
Caro
and
0.1 miles
lonelyplanet.com
R u tl
400 m
202 C O R K
204 C O R K C I T Y S i g h t s
out for ugly scenes around central pubs and

clubs late at night.
SIGHTS
Cork City Gaol
Faint-hearted souls may find Cork City Gaol
(%430 5022; www.corkcitygaol.com; Convent Ave; adult/
child 7/3.50; h9.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb,
last admission 1hr before closing) a little grim, but
Crawford Municipal Art Gallery

Corks public gallery (%490 7855; www.crawfordart
gallery.com; Emmet Pl; admission free; h10am-5pm MonSat) houses a small but excellent permanent
collection, featuring works by Irish artists

such as Jack Yeats and Sen Keating. Look
out for Keatings Men of the South (1921), a
fine piece of historical romanticism depicting members of the North Cork Batallion
of the IRA.
The Sculpture Galleries contain snowwhite plaster casts of Roman and Greek
statues, given to King George IV by the
pope in 1822. George didnt like the present
and stuck the sculptures in the cellar until
someone suggested that Cork might appreciate them.
The downstairs exhibition hall hosts superior temporary displays, and theres a stylish
caf (see p208).
St Finbarres Cathedral
Spiky spires, gurning gargoyles and rich sculpture make up the exterior of Corks Protestant
cathedral (%496 3387; http://cathedral.cork.anglican.org;
Bishop St; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat &
12.30pm-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-12.45pm & 2-5pm OctMar), an attention-grabbing mixture of French
Gothic and medieval whimsy. Local legend

says that the golden angel on the eastern side
will blow its horn when the apocalypse is due
to start
The grandeur continues inside, with marble
floor mosaics, a colourful chancel ceiling and
a huge pulpit and bishops throne. Quirky
items on display include a cannonball blasted
into an earlier medieval spire during the Siege
of Cork (1690).
Most of the ostentation is the result of a
competition, held in 1863, to choose an architect for the building. William Burges was the
hands-down winner, and once victory was assured he promptly redrew all his plans with
an extra choir bay and taller towers and his
15,000 budget went out the window. Luckily,
the bishop understood such perfectionism
and spent the rest of his life fundraising for
the project.
The cathedral sits at an aloof distance south
of the centre, on the spot where Corks patron
saint, Finbarre, founded his monastery in the
7th century.
Lewis Glucksman Gallery

The Glucksman (%490 2760; www.glucksman.org;
University College Cork; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue,
Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-8pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun), a star-
tling limestone, steel and timber construction,

is a visible symbol of Corkonian optimism.
Opened in 2004 to great excitement, the 12million building has three huge display areas,
which host ever-changing art exhibitions and
installations. If youre in town, dont miss the
free fortnightly curatorial tours; the website
has details. Its situation in the grounds of
the UCC means that its always buzzing with
people coming to attend lectures, view the
artwork or procrastinate in the basement caf
(see p207).
Cork Public Museum
C O R K C I T Y T o u r s 205
lonelyplanet.com
history from the Stone Age right up to local

football legend Roy Keane, with a diverse
collection of local artefacts. Theres a caf
next door.
Take bus 8 to the main gates of the UCC
and follow the signs.
Beamish & Crawford Brewery

This famous brewery (%491 1100; www.beamish.ie;
South Main St; guided tour adult/concession 7/5; h10.30am
& noon Tue & Thu May-Sep, 11am Thu Oct-Apr) is the oldest
porter brewery in Ireland. Enjoyable tours end

in the bar, where you can pour your own pint.
Its fronted by the Counting House, a building
that takes first prize for eye-blinding architectural awfulness (mock Tudor, crow-stepped
gables, classical pediment and pebbledash).
Shandon
Throw a few galleries, antique shops and
cafs among the colourful lanes and squares
and Shandon could easily emerge as Corks
Latin Quarter. Perched on a hillside overlooking the city centre, its a great spot for
the views alone.
Shandon is dominated by St Annes Church
(%450 5906; www.shandonbells.org; John Redmond St;
h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat), aka the Four-Faced
Liar, so-called as each of the towers four

clocks used to tell a different time. Wannabe
campanologists can ring the bells (adult/child
6/3.90) on the 1st floor of the 18th-century
Italianate tower and continue up to the top
for 360-degree views of the city.
Cork had the largest butter market in the
world during the 1860s, exporting butter as
far as India, South America and Australia.
The Butter Exchange was in Shandon and
you can still spot dairy motifs throughout the
area: look out for the cow above the Shandon
Craft Centre (OConnell Sq), now housing souvenir shops and the Butter Market Caf (%430
2303; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat). The Cork Butter
Museum (%430 0600; www.corkbutter.museum; OConnell
Sq; adult/child 3/2.50; h10am-5pm Mar-Jun & Sep-Oct,
10am-6pm Jul-Aug, by arrangement Nov-Feb) reveals the
historical importance of the industry to the

whole country with a 25-minute video, buttermaking artefacts and history panels.
Located in a pleasant Georgian house in

Fitzgerald Park, this museum (%427 0679; www
Other Sights
.corkcitycouncil.ie/amenities; Fitzgerald Park; admission free;

h11am-1pm & 2.15-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm & 2.15-4pm
Sat year-round, 3-5pm Sun Apr-Sep) recounts Corks
(x427 9925; www.corkvisioncentre.com; St Peters Church,

North Main St; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat) to
Its worth popping into the Cork Vision Centre

view the frequently changing art exhibitions,
many of them featuring local artists and photographers. Also on display is a scale model
of the city centre.
One of Corks most famous figures was Father Theobald Mathew, the Apostle of Temperance, who went on a short-lived crusade
against alcohol in the 1830s and 1840s a
quarter of a million people took the pledge,
and whiskey production halved. The Holy Trinity Church (Fr Mathew Quay) was designed by the
Pain brothers in 1834 in his honour, and the
Father Mathew Bingo Hall around the corner
also celebrates his memory. Mathews statue
stands on St Patricks St.
Red Abbey Tower (Red Abbey St), the only medieval building left in Cork, is all that remains of a
14th-century Augustinian priory. Its location
is fairly anonymous, but a bit of imagination
will help create a stirring sense of antiquity.
On Grand Pde, near the tourist office, is
the ornate Nationalist Monument, erected in
memory of the Irish patriots who died during the 1798 and 1867 Risings.
TOURS
Arrangements Unlimited (%429 3873; www

.arrangements.ie) Organises walking tours on request.
Bus ireann (%450 8188; www.buseireann.ie; adult/

child 9.90/6.30; hdeparts 10.30am daily Easter-Sep)
Three-hour open-top bus tour of Cork and Blarney Castle,
from the bus station.
Cork City Tour (%430 9090; adult/child 13/5;
h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct) Hop-on-hop-off open-top bus
linking the citys main areas of interest.
Cork Historic Walking Tours (%085-100 7300;
www.walkcork.ie; adult/child 10/5; hMon-Fri Apr-Sep)
Runs four 90-minute tours from the tourist office.
Haunted History Tour (x430 5022; corkgaol@indigo
.ie; tour 15; h8pm Thu-Sat) Ghostly tour around Cork
City Gaol.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Book well in advance, particularly for the October jazz and film festivals. Programmes for
both are available from the Cork Opera House
(%427 0022; www.corkoperahouse.ie; Emmet Pl).
Cork Pride (www.corkpride.com) Week-long gay-pride
celebrations in May/June.
Corona Cork Film Festival (www.corkfilmfest.org)

Eclectic week-long programme of international films held
in October.
Eigse Literary Festival (Tigh Litrochta; %431 2955;
www.munsterlit.ie; 84 Douglas St) Writing workshops,
readings and exhibitions in February. Details available from
the Munster Literature Centre.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
its certainly a highly unusual and worthwhile attraction. An audio-tour guides you
around the restored cells, which feature
models of suffering prisoners and sadisticlooking guards. Its very moving, bringing
home the harshness of the 19th-century
penal system. The most common crime
was that of poverty; many of the inmates
were sentenced to hard labour for stealing
loaves of bread.
The prison closed in 1923, reopening in
1927 as a radio station. The change of use
is reflected in the upstairs National Radio
Museum (adult/child 6/3.50; h9.30am-6pm Mar-Oct,
10am-5pm Nov-Feb) where, alongside collections
of beautiful old radios, you can hear the
story of Guglielmo Marconis conquest of
the airwaves.
To get there, walk from the city centre,
or take bus 8 from the bus station to the
University College Cork (UCC); walk north
across Fitzgerald Park, over Mardyke Bridge,
along the River Lee Walkway and follow the
signs up the hill.
lonelyplanet.com
206 C O R K C I T Y S l e e p i n g
Guinness Jazz Festival (www.corkjazzfestival.com) All-
Midrange
star line-up in venues across town held, in October.

International Choral Festival (www.corkchoral.ie)
From late April to early May in the City Hall and other
venues.
Slow Food Ireland (www.slowfoodireland.com)
Promotes and supports local artisan producers, with cheese
tastings and other events throughout the year.
Western Rd has the biggest choice of B&Bs.

Emerson House (%450 3647; www.emersonhousecork
SLEEPING
Budget
Sheilas Hostel (%450 5562; www.sheilashostel.ie; 4 Belgrave Pl, Wellington Rd; 8-/4-bed dm 15/18, d 52; pi)
Sheilas heaves with young travellers, and its

no wonder with the continual improvements
made to the place. A cinema room with free
daily films has been added to the facilities,
which include a sauna, free internet access,
a pool room and barbecue. Staff can arrange
bicycle and car hire. Breakfast is 3 extra.
Kinlay House Shandon (%450 8966; www.kinlay
housecork.ie; Bob & Joans Walk; dm 16-20, s/d 45/49, r
with bathroom 52; iw) This labyrinthine hos-
tel is in a quiet spot near St Annes Church

in Shandon. The dcor has seen better days
but the place has a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Guests can use the next-door gym at
a discount.
Cork International Hostel (% 454 3289; www
.anoige.ie; 1 & 2 Redclyffe, Western Rd; 10-/6-/4-bed dm
16/18/20, d 44; pi) Housed in a fine red-
brick building near the university, this An

ige hostel has bright dorms and cheerful
staff who do a great job coping with the
constant stream of guests. The drawback is
the 2km walk (or bus 8 ride) to the centre,
along a busy road. Breakfast is 4.50 extra.
Br Bar & Hostel (% 455 9667; www.bruhostel
.com; 57 MacCurtain St; 6-/4-bed dm 17.50/22.50, tr 50;
piw) Run by helpful Kiwi managers,
this buzzing hostel has its own internet

caf, with free Web access for guests, and a
fantastic bar popular with backpackers and
locals alike. The dorms (with bathroom) are
on the small side but are pristinely maintained and smartly decorated ask for one
on the upper floors to avoid noise from
the bar.
Near the train station are a handful of
basic but clean B&Bs, including Tara House
(%450 0294; 52 Lower Glanmire Rd; s/d 45/70) and the
neighbouring Oaklands (%450 0578; s/d 45/70).
Youll get a friendly welcome across the road
at Aaran House Tourist Hostel (%455 1566; dm 14, d
38), not least from Reilly the dog.
.com; 2 Clarence Tce, North Summer Hill; r from 40; p )
Near the top of busy Summer Hill is this gay

and lesbian B&B tucked away on a quiet terrace. The accommodation, in a Georgian
house retaining many original features, is
comfortably elegant, and host Cyril is a mine
of information on the area.
Victoria Hotel (%427 8788; www.thevictoriahotel
.com; Patrick St; r 40-90 per person) You cant get better value for such a central location than this
historic hotel, making it popular with large
groups. Cheerful staff proudly tell you that
Charles Stuart Parnell once stayed here, as did
Stephen Daedalus in James Joyces A Portrait
of the Artist (his dad had drisheen for breakfast). Its been updated since then, with a new
entrance on St Patricks St and large, freshly
decorated rooms.
Auburn House (%450 8555; www.auburnguesthouse
.com; 3 Garfield Tce, Wellington Rd; s/d 45/75, with bathroom
58/80; p) Theres a warm family welcome at
this neat B&B, which has smallish but impeccably kept rooms brightened by window
boxes. Try to bag one of the back rooms, which
have sweeping views over the city. Veggies will
relish the meat-free sausages for breakfast.
Acorn House (%/fax 450 2474; www.acornhouse-cork
.com; 14 St Patricks Hill; s 52-65, d 90-110) A handsome, high-ceilinged, part-Georgian house,
this listed building has attractive rooms
painted in mellow yellows and soothing
greens. Antiques such as washstands and
ewers give a personal touch, and the house
has the advantage of being on a quiet street
yet close to the city centre.
oGarnish House (%427 5111; www.garnish
.ie; Western Rd; s 60-80, d 90-140; pw) Will you
be wanting a cup of tea now? is the greeting
youll receive when you arrive on the doorstep
of this large B&B near the centre. And then
out comes the tea. And the scones. And the
chocolate cake. And the soda bread. And more
tea. And so the hospitality goes on, with every
attention lavished upon you until you leave.
You could stay for a month and still not get
through the breakfast menu, though wed recommend you stop trying once you get to the
porridge with cream, honey and whiskey. To
top it all off, rooms are smartly decorated with
comfortable beds and crisp linens.
Crawford House (%427 9000; www.crawfordguest
house.com; Western Rd; s 75-85, d 110-120; p )
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
C O R K C I T Y E a t i n g 207
Another top-notch B&B, Crawford House has

spacious rooms with king-size beds, gracious
furnishings and some bodacious Jacuzzis to
splash around in. The standard is that of a
contemporary hotel, the atmosphere that of
a family home.
day, when you can scoff veggie lasagne, salads,

panini and the finest carrot cake known to
mankind peacefully. Wine is by the glass, or
go for a healthy smoothie.
Caf Glucksman (x490 1848; www.glucksman.org;
Top End
the Lewis Glucksman Gallery has panoramic

views of the university grounds outside its
picture windows and is all stark modernity
within. The food is modern European in
approach, so expect dishes such as poached
salmon in lemon-butter or tagliatelle with
blue cheese on the menu.
Quay Co-op (%431 7026; www.quaycoop.com; 24
Sullivans Quay; mains 8-11; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Flying a cheerful flag for alternative Cork, this
favourite offers a range of self-service veggie
options, all organic, including big breakfasts,
rib-sticking soups and casseroles. The menu
changes daily. It also caters for gluten-, dairyand wheat-free needs, and is amazingly childfriendly. You can track down most of Corks
alternative organisations and events on the
noticeboard downstairs.
Farmgate Caf (%427 8134; English Market; lunch
4-13, dinner 18-30; h8.30am-10pm Mon-Sat) An unmissable Cork experience at the heart of the
English Market, the Farmgate, like its sister
restaurant in Midleton (see p215), has mastered the magic art of producing delicious
food without fuss or faddism. We defy you
to find fresher food in Cork; the Farmgate
sources all its ingredients, from rock oysters
to the lamb for an Irish stew, from the market.
Its location, perched on a balcony above the
stalls, makes for great people-watching too.
Isaacs Hotel (%450 0011; www.isaacs.ie; 48 MacCurtain

St; s/d 110/135, 2-bed apt 160; pi) The interior
doesnt quite match the grand faade but you
can expect charming service, large rooms and
comfy beds at this old hotel in a Victorian
furniture warehouse. The hotels Greenes
Restaurant, serving international cuisine, is
set against a floodlit rocky waterfall, a startling
sight in a city venue.
Imperial Hotel (%427 4040; www.flynhotels.com;
South Mall; s/d standard 135/175, superior 175/215;
pw) Fast approaching her bicentenary,
the Imperial knows how to age gracefully.

A large-scale refurbishment has seamlessly
merged the hotels opulent period detail with
flash contemporary touches, such as an Aveda
spa, and DVD players in the superior rooms.
Throw in two top restaurants, a food hall and
a double-storeyed pub and you need a damn
good reason to step foot outside at all.
Hayfield Manor (%484 9500; www.hayfieldmanor
.ie; Perrott Ave, College Rd; s/d 180/220; piw) Roll
out the red carpet and pour yourself a sherry
for you have arrived. A mile from the city
centre but with all the ambience of a country
house, Hayfield combines the luxury and facilities of a big hotel with the informality and
welcome of a small one. If youre not rolling
around the beautiful bedrooms (choose from
traditional or contemporary styling), take afternoon tea in the library or have a facial at
the Beautique.
EATING
Budget
Caf Gusto (%425 4446; www.cafegusto.com; 3 Washington St; dishes 4-5; h7.45am-6pm) Wraps, salads and
pittas and a commitment to the finest fillings
are the order of the day at this simple caf.
Gustos assertion that it makes the best coffee
in Cork is no idle claim either. You can sit in
at high counter tops or take away, and theres
a second branch at Lapps Quay.
Triskel Caf (%427 4644; www.triskelart.com; Tobin
St; lunch 5-8; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, also on performance
nights) Attached to the Triskel Arts Centre, this
cool, confident caf is often quiet during the
Lewis Glucksman Gallery, University College Cork; dishes 8-11;

h10am-5pm Mon-Sat & noon-4pm Sun) The caf at
SELF CATERING
oEnglish Market (h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Cork picnickers are a fortunate bunch. The

wonderful market is a self-caterers paradise
with so many tasty delicacies to choose from
its hard to show restraint. The emphasis is
on local produce, with cheeses, ham, buttered
eggs, sausages, bread and smoked salmon
on offer, but there are some imports such
as olives and wine too. If you have cooking
facilities, the fresh-fish sellers will tell you
exactly what to buy and how to cook it. Otherwise, perch at stall-side counters or take
your lunch to Bishop Lucey Park, a popular
alfresco eating spot.
Quay Co-op Organic & Wholefood Shop (Sullivans
Quay; h9am-6.15pm Mon-Sat) This is an excellent
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
208 C O R K C I T Y E a t i n g
place for self-caterers; youll find it next door

to Quay Co-op.
Midrange
Boqueria (%455 9049; www.boqueriasixbridgest.com; 6
Bridge St; breakfast 3-8, tapas 4-15; breakfast h8.30amnoon, tapas noon-late Mon-Sat & 5pm-late Sun) This tapas
bar is a shining addition to Corks wonderful eateries. In addition to the usual oniongarlic-tomato combinations, the chefs use
local creations such as sourdough, Gubbeen
cheese, and salmon to create tasty Irishified
tapas. Its a dusky, intimate spot, favoured
by couples in the evenings, and at lunch by
friends seeking a civilised glass of wine.
Caf de la Paix (x427 9556; 16 Washington St; www
.cafedelapaixcork.com; lunch 4-10, dinner 10-14; h8am11.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12.30am Fri, 10am-12.30am Sat
& noon-11pm Sun) An unassuming red exterior
hides this chilled-out wine bar backing on to

the River Lee. Picture windows make the most
of the view from the simple white interior
and theres a fabulous riverside deck outside.
Global favourites grace the menu, from Thai
curries to daily pasta specials, and the food
scores highly both on flavour and presentation. Its tapas only after 10pm.
Currans (x422 3950; www.curranscork.com; 5 Adelaide
fixtures and fittings, Currans interior is entirely made up of artefacts salvaged from the
citys demolished buildings. The wood panelling comes from the GPO, the radiators from
Linville Hospital, even the lift is reclaimed
from the tax office. The menu is a similar
hotch-potch of reliable favourites pizzas,
burgers, seafood and steaks and theres a
delightful rooftop terrace if you ever tire of
the interior.
Scoozis (%427 5077; 3-4 Winthrop Ave; lunch 912, mains 12-15; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm
Sun) Theres lots of exposed brickwork and
burnished wood inside this hugely popular

caf-restaurant, tucked down a lane between
Winthrop and Caroline Sts. Snug alcoves add
intimacy as the fast and friendly young staff
dish up breakfasts, pizzas, pastas, grills and
a fair selection of wine. Its a great place for
families too.
Crawford Gallery Caf (%427 4415; www.crawford
artgallery.com; Emmet Pl; mains 13-14, set menu 25;
h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) An elegant blue dining
room and exquisite seasonal and locally produced food make for high-class gallery grazing
EATING IN THE HUGUENOT QUARTER

The pedestrianised streets north of St
Patricks St throng with cafs and restaurants, and the place hops day and night.
Theres a plethora of options all have
outside tables and many serve late so
the best advice is go for a wander and
find somewhere that suits your mood and
budget. Among our favourites are the New
World cuisine at Amicus Caf & Restaurant
(%427 6455; 14a French Church St), SpanishMexican fare at Caf Mexicana (%427 6433;
www.cafemexicana.net; 1 Careys Lane) and the
global menu at Strasbourg Goose (%427
9534; 17-18 French Church St).
at the Crawford. Its also a quality place for a

spot of eavesdropping.
Isaacs Restaurant (%450 3805; 48A MacCurtain
St; lunch 13-23, dinner 16-23; h12.30-2.30pm & 6.3010.30pm) Housed in an 18th-century warehouse,
Isaacs captures a nostalgic Parisian-caf atmosphere to go with its lively menu. Daily
specials might include penne with Gubbeen
chorizo or crab cake with chilli mayonnaise,
and there are always good veggie options.
Top End
Fenns Quay (x427 9527; www.fennsquay.ie; 5 Sheares
St; lunch 5-20, dinner 18-28; h10am-late Mon-Sat) You
could spend all day at this exceptionally comfortable place, starting with scones fresh out
of the oven for breakfast and ending with fish
straight from the English Market (p207) for
dinner. The simple interior whitewashed
walls and wooden furniture is matched by
a straightforward food philosophy: quality
local produce cooked with care and attention.
Before 7.30pm, a two-course dinner will set
you back 22.50.
Caf Paradiso (%427 7939; www.cafeparadiso.ie; 16
Lancaster Quay; lunch 12-16, dinner 24-25; hnoon-3pm
& 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat) At arguably the best veg-
etarian restaurant in Ireland, the inventive

dishes will seduce even the most committed
carnivore. The charming staff promote happy
interaction and theres a Mediterranean ambience in the animated dining room. Creativity
maintains the standard of dishes and the wine
list reflects a real passion for the vine. For
post-pudding paradise, slither upstairs to one
of three stylish double rooms (160), reserved
exclusively for diners.
lonelyplanet.com
Jacques Restaurant (x427 7387; http://jacques

restaurant.ie; 9 Phoenix St; mains 22-27; h6-10pm MonSat) With more than 25 years in the business,
Jacqueline and Eithne Barry have built up a
terrific network of local suppliers to help them
realise their culinary ambitions the freshest
Cork food cooked simply. The menu, served
in an elegant dining room, is dictated by
whats available and in season if its on, the
roast duck with apricot stuffing is a particular
pleasure. A two-course menu is available from
6pm to 7pm for 21.90.
Ivory Tower (%427 4665; www.seamusoconnell.com;
Exchange Bldgs, 35 Princes St; mains 28-35; h6.30-10pm
Wed-Sat) Hiding behind an unpromisingly
shabby entrance is this delightfully eclectic

place done up like a grannys parlour albeit
a granny whose tastes run to upright pianos,
safari hats and moon-and-star motifs. The
menu is equally intriguing chef Seamus
OConnells missions to Japan having influenced the accomplished cuisine and few
concessions are made to the timid (the speciality is blackened shark with banana ketchup).
A five-course menu is available at 60; a threecourse menu is served between 6.30pm and
8pm for 30.
DRINKING
Corks pub life is cracking, easily rivalling
that of Dublin in quality. Drink Guinness at
your peril, or Murphys and Beamish, which
are brewed locally. Cork also has its very own
brewpub, the Franciscan Well Brewery.
An Spailpn Fnac (%427 7949; South Main St) The
Wandering Labourer really hangs on to its
character, with exposed brickwork, stoneflagged floors, snug corners and open fires.
There are good trad sessions every night
bar Saturday.
oSin (%450 2266; Coburg St) You could
easily while away an entire day at this great old
place over the Lee North Channel. There are
no frills or fuss here just a comfy, sociable
pub long on atmosphere and short on pretension. Hunker down in the dark downstairs or
swivel in the barbers chair in the brighter upstairs room. Theres music most nights, much
of it traditional but with the odd surprise.
Mutton Lane Inn (%427 3471; Mutton Lane) Tucked
down the tiniest of laneways off St Patricks St,
this inviting pub lit by candles and fairy lights
is one of Corks most intimate drinking holes.
It also has one of the best beer selections in
the city. Its miniscule and much-admired so
C O R K C I T Y D r i n k i n g 209
try to get in early to bag the snug, or join the

smokers perched on beer kegs outside.
Long Valley (%427 2144; Winthrop St) A Cork institution that dates from the mid-19th century
and is still going strong, the Long Valley has a
landscape that fits its name. The upstairs Hayloft is usually quieter if the main bar is busy.
Franciscan Well Brewery (x421 0130; www.franciscan
wellbrewery.com; 14 North Mall) The copper vats
gleaming behind the bar give the game away:
the Franciscan Well brews its own beer. And
very good it is too, whether youre after stout,
ale, lager or wheat beer. The best place to
enjoy it is in the enormous beer garden at
the back. The pub holds regular beer festivals
with other small Irish breweries check the
website for details.
Hi-B (x427 2758; 108 Oliver Plunkett St) Up a dingy
flight of stairs, tiny Hi-B is one of Corks most
idiosyncratic pubs, in no small part thanks
to landlord Brian OConnell. If youve never
been thrown out of a pub and think youve
missed out, try getting out your mobile
here. Or ordering a soft drink. Or looking
at Brian in a funny way. Theres jazz on
the piano on Wednesday nights to add to
the entertainment.
Crane Lane Theatre (x427 8487; Phoenix St) Newly
opened Crane Lane is fast becoming a city
institution, thanks to its courtyard beer garden, theatrical dcor and regular live-music
sessions. It also does a good line in specialty
tipples Swedish wild berry cider, anyone?
Pubs are Corks best asset but if you hanker
after a cocktail, theres a booming bar scene:
Chambers (x422 2860; Washington St; hlate ThuSun) A haberdasher swallowed a copy of Elle Decoration,
and Chambers was born.
Suas (x427 8973; www.suasbar.com; 4-5 South Main
St; hlate Fri-Sat) Fantastic rooftop location high above
Main St; the entrance is by Wagamamas.
ENTERTAINMENT
For listings pick up a copy of WhazOn? (www

.whazon.com), available from the tourist office
and some B&Bs and shops.
Theatre
Corks cultural life is as fine as any in Ireland and attracts numerous internationally
renowned performers.
Cork Opera House (%427 4308; www.corkopera
house.ie; Emmet Pl; box office h9am-8.30pm, to 5.30pm
non-performance nights) This leading venue has
been entertaining the city for more than 150
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
St; mains 10-23; hnoon-10pm Sun-Wed, noon-11pm ThuSat) A retirement home for Corks unwanted
lonelyplanet.com
210 C O R K C I T Y E n t e r t a i n m e n t
years with everything from opera and ballet

to stand-up and puppet shows. Performances
are as varied as Carmen, Nanci Griffith, and
the musical I, Keano.
Everyman Palace Theatre (%450 1673; www.every
manpalace.com; 15 MacCurtain St; tickets from 12; box office
h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm non-performance nights)
Acclaimed musical and dramatic productions

are the main bill of fare here, but theres also
the occasional high-quality opera, rock band,
storyteller and comedian.
Granary (%490 4275; www.granary.ie; Dyke Pde; tickets
around 12) Contemporary and experimental
works are staged at the Granary by the University College Cork drama group and visiting
companies. Look out for any related workshops, symposiums and installations.
Cork Arts Theatre (%450 5624; www.corkartstheatre
.com; Camden Court, Carrolls Quay; tickets 10-20) Newly
rebuilt, this excellent theatre shows thoughtprovoking drama and runs workshops for new
writers and kids.
Triskel Arts Centre (x 472 2022; www.triskelart
.com; Tobin St; tickets around 15) Expect a varied programme of live music, installation art, photography and theatre at this intimate venue.
Theres also a great caf, Triskel Caf (p207).
Cinemas
Gate Multiplex (%427 9595; North Main St; tickets
Live Music
Cork overflows with tunes. As well as the pubs
mentioned earlier (p209), the following places
GONE TO THE DOGS
If you tire of the pubs, the live music
and the theatre, theres always the dogs.
Greyhound-racing is big news in Ireland,
particularly with families, and Curraheen
Greyhound Park (x 454 3095; www.igb.ie;
Curraheen Park; adult/child 10/5; hWed, Thu

& Sat from 6.45pm) is one of the countrys
swankiest stadiums. There are 10 races a
night, and a restaurant, bar and live music
to keep you entertained in between. Curraheen is 5.5km from the centre; to get there,
take bus 8. A free bus drops you back between 10.30pm and 12.30am.
are either dedicated music venues or bars

known particularly for their live events. These
are just the tip of the iceberg refer to WhazOn
or Plugd Records (opposite) and www
.corkgigs.com for more. Buy tickets at the
venues themselves or from Plugd.
An Cruiscn Ln (%484 0941; www.cruiscin.com;
Douglas St) Trad bands and world, blues and
pop musicians all play at this acclaimed bar
south of the river.
Fred Zeppelins (%427 3500; www.fredzeps.com;
8 Parliament St) Theres a hard edge to this dark
den of a bar, popular with goths, rockers and
anyone who feels uncomfortable leaving the
house without a packet of Rizlas. There are
regular gigs upstairs and DJs downstairs.
Savoy (%425 1419; www.savoycork.com; St Patricks St)
The Savoy sweeps the spectrum from singersongwriters and rock bands to tribute bands
and regular club nights. Recent gigs have seen
the Lemonheads and the Levellers strut the
stage.
Half Moon Theatre (%427 0022; www.halfmoon
theatre.ie; Emmet Place) One of Corks best venues
for live music, comedy and drama. Saturday
night sees Lobby Live, featuring an everinteresting line-up of local and international
bands. Music joins the dots between blues,
folk, trad, rock and alternative.
Nightclubs
Corks club life really does rival Dublins,
in quantity if not in quality. Most clubs go
all guns blazing for pissed students and 20somethings on the pull. If this is your bag, Redz
(17 Liberty St), Qube (74 Oliver Plunkett St) and Vibes (Paul
St) will keep you happy.
Entry ranges from free to 15 and most
of these places open until 2am on Friday
and Saturday.
Scotts (% 422 2779; www.scotts.ie; Caroline St;
hFri-Sat) This deluxe venue, all dark wood
and moody lighting, has a fine restaurant
downstairs and an upstairs club that features
mainstream floor-fillers for well-groomed
over-20s.
Havana Browns (x427 1969; www.havana-browns
.com; Hanover St; hnightly) One of Corks most
popular clubs, Havana Browns has three
bars, a VIP room, an outdoor terrace and a
fine line in neon and amber back-lighting.
The music doesnt stray far from MTVs
current playlist.
oLiquid Lounge (x427 6097; www.liquid
lounge.ie; 29 Marlborough St; hWed-Sat) If youre
lonelyplanet.com
more interested in good music than getting laid, Liquid Lounge is here to save you.
There are regular gigs on Saturday nights,
featuring bands signed to Irish labels, and
DJ sets cover anything from Arcade Fire and
the Yeah Yeah Yeahs to Kraftwerk and De La
Soul. Theres a top roof terrace to boot.
SHOPPING
As well as the full range of national and international stores, there are some excellent
specialist outlets in Cork. The little streets
north of St Patricks St, packed with smaller
boutiques, are the most interesting.
OConnaill (%437 3407; 16B French Church St) Dont
leave Cork without sampling the Chocolatiers
Hot Chocolate (3.30) at the tiny counter at
OConnaill confectioners. The foolhardy can
stagger away with 2.5kg slabs of chocolate
but there are subtler concoctions on offer,
with wafer-thin slivers of cocoa flavoured
with exotic flourishes such as coffee beans
or chilli.
Living Tradition (%450 2564; 40 MacCurtain St;
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Head here for traditional
and world-music CDs, instruments, publications and gig info.
Plugd Records (%427 6300; 4 Washington St) A
terrific music shop that stocks everything
from techno to nu-jazz beats. You can buy
tickets for gigs and pick up the very latest
info on the club scene.
Union Chandlery (%455 4334; 4-5 Penroses Quay)
Camping and trekking gear, wetsuits, sailing equipment and guides are on sale, and
theres an information board on sporting
activities around the county.
C O R K C I T Y S h o p p i n g 211
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air
Cork airport (% 431 3131; www.cork-airport.com)
is 8km south of the city on the N27. Facilities include ATMs and car-hire desks
(p212). Airlines servicing the airport include bmibaby, Malev Hungarian Airlines,
Ryanair and Wizz. There are direct flights
within Europe only; other overseas flights
go via Dublin.
See p212 for information on getting
into town.
Boat
Brittany Ferries (%427 7801; www.brittany-ferries
.com; 42 Grand Pde) sail to Roscoff (France) at
4pm every Saturday from the end of March
to October. The crossing takes 15 hours and
you have to book accommodation (reclining seat/2-/4-berth cabin 10/125/155). The
best fares are available online. Some sample high-season fares (not including accommodation) are: car and two passengers
430; motorcycle and driver 147; and foot
passenger 92.
Bus
Bus ireann (%450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) operates from the bus station on the corner of
Merchants Quay and Parnell Pl. You can
get to most places in Ireland from Cork, including Dublin (9.50 single, 4 hours, six
daily), Killarney (13.50 single, one hour 40
minutes, 14 daily), Waterford (14.90, 2
hours, 14 daily) and Kilkenny (14.90 single,
three hours, three daily).
GAY & LESBIAN CORK

Cork Pride (www.corkpride.com) Week-long festival every May/June with events throughout the city.
Flux! (%450 5405; www.fluxcork.com; 56 MacCurtain St; hfrom 2pm daily, to 2am Fri & Sat) Sleek new bar
scene with DJs at the weekend.

Grub caf-bar (%427 8470; www.gayprojectcork.com; 8 South Main St; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm
Sat-Sun) Housed at the same premises as the Other Place.
Instinct (www.instinctbarcork.com; Sullivans Quay; h9pm-late Fri-Sat) Lively club with DJs, Kylie parties, salsa
lessons and quiz nights.
L.Inc (%480 8600; www.linc.ie; 11A White St; hoffice 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, drop-in times noon-3pm Tue &
8-10pm Thu) Excellent resource centre for lesbians and bisexual women.
Loafers (%431 1612; www.loafersbar.com; 26 Douglas St) Corks oldest and most laid-back gay bar.
Other Place (%427 8470; www.gayprojectcork.com; 8 South Main St) Hosts the Southern Gay Health Project
(www.gayhealthproject.com) and has a bookstore, a caf-bar and a nightclub, which operates from 10pm to late
Friday to Sunday. Check the nightclubs website at www.theotherplaceclub.com for details.
www.gaycork.com Whats-on listings and directory.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
adult/child 8/5.50) Multiscreen cinema showing mainstream films.

Kino (%427 1571; www.kinocinema.net; Washington
St; tickets 8, matinee 5.50) Shows art-house flicks.
lonelyplanet.com
212 A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y B l a r n e y C a s t l e
Car
The following companies have desks at the
airport. In our experience, Budget has the
best rates.
Alamo/National (%431 8623; www.carhire.ie)
Avis (%432 7460; www.avis.ie)
Budget (%431 4000; www.budget.ie)
Hertz (%496 5849; www.hertz.ie)
Sixt (%4318644; www.e-sixt.ie)
Thrifty (%434 8488; www.thrifty.ie)
Train
warned the traffic wardens are ferociously

efficient and the cost of retrieving your vehicle hefty. There are about 10 signposted car
parks around the central area, with charges
of 1.30 per hour, and 3 overnight.
Cork has a Park & Ride system to help
tackle city-centre congestion; its 5 for a return bus fare into the centre, from 7.30am to
7.30pm Monday to Saturday. The car park is
on the southern approach from Kinsale; the
drop-off point is Lapps Quay.
Kent Train Station (%450 4777) is north of the

River Lee on Lower Glanmire Rd. Bus 5
runs into the centre (1.30) and a taxi costs
from 7 to 8.
Routes include Dublin (68, three hours,
16 daily), Limerick (22.50, 1 hours, nine
daily), Tralee (29.50, 2 hours, nine daily),
Killarney (22.50, 1 hours, nine daily).
The train journey to Waterford is long and
circuitous: better to take the bus.
Taxi
GETTING AROUND
castle.ie; Blarney; adult/child 8/2.50; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat

& 9.30am-5.30pm Sun Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm or sundown MonSat & 9.30am-5pm or sundown Sun Oct-Apr, 9am-6.30pm
Mon-Sat & 9.30am-5.30pm Sun May & Sep, last admission
30min before closing). Crowds flock here to kiss
To/From the Airport

A taxi into town costs 13 to 18. Bus 226
runs between the airport and the bus station, and into the city centre (3.80). Journey time for both is 30 minutes.
To/From the Ferry Terminal

The ferry terminal is at Ringaskiddy, 15 minutes by car southeast of the city centre along
the N28. Taxis cost 25 to 30. Bus ireann
runs a fairly frequent service from the bus
station to link up with sailings (adult/child
4.60/2.90, 50 minutes).
Bicycle
You can rent bikes and glean cycling tips
from affable Aidan and Robbie at Rothar Cycles
(%431 3133; www.rotharcycletours.com; 55 Barrack St; per
day/week 25/80). They offer a one-way pick-up
service from other towns for 30 (with a

100 refundable deposit) and run frequent
summer cycling tours.
Bus
Most places are within easy walking distance
of the centre. A single bus ticket costs 1.30.
Car
Streetside parking requires scratch-card
parking discs (1.80 per hour) obtained from
the tourist office and some newsagencies. Be
For taxi hire, try Cork Taxi Co-op (%427 2222) or

Shandon Cabs (%450 2255).
AROUND CORK CITY

BLARNEY CASTLE
One of the most popular tourist stops in Ireland is Blarney Castle (%021-438 5252; www.blarney
the Blarney Stone, said to grant the gift of

the gab.
The way is not easy for those seeking eloquence. The stone is perched at the top of
the 15th-century castle, reached by a steep
climb up slippery spiral staircases. On the
battlements, you bend backwards over a
long, long drop (with safety grill and attendant to prevent messy accidents) to kiss the
stone; as your shirt rides up, coach loads of
onlookers stare up your nose. Once youre
upright, dont forget to admire the stunning
views before descending.
The custom of kissing the stone is a relatively modern one, but Blarneys association
with smooth talking goes back a long time.
Queen Elizabeth I is said to have invented
the term to talk blarney out of exasperation with Lord Blarneys ability to talk endlessly without ever actually agreeing to
her demands.
Be warned: quiet Blarney moments dont
exist in the race for the stone. Your best
bet is to leave the kissing until late when
the crowds start to drift off. If it all gets
too much, vanish into the Rock Close, part
of the wonderful gardens, which includes
lonelyplanet.com
A SNEAKY SHORTCUT: PASSAGE WEST
A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y F o t a 213
COBH
%021 / pop 6800
a fairy glade, a witchs kitchen and a set of

wishing steps.
Blarney is 8km northwest of Cork and
buses run frequently from Cork bus station
(2.70, 30 minutes).
In the wake of the Famine, 2.5 million people

emigrated from the port of Cobh (pronounced
cove) go on a grey day, and the sense of loss
is still almost palpable. When the sun shines
and the crowds flock in, though, youll see
another side to this hilly little town. The spectacular cathedral looks down over brightly
coloured houses, the wide seaside promenade
and the glittering estuary, and Cobh seems to
shake off its sad past.
Cobh has become a popular stopover for
visiting cruise liners whose clientele are
whisked off in coaches to tourist hot spots.
FOTA
History
If youre travelling between east and west

Cork, avoid Cork city centre by using the
Ferry Link (% 021-481 1223; pedestrian/car
1/4.50; h7am-12.15am). The crossing connects Glenbrook and Carrigaloe (near Cobh)
and takes five minutes. Bikes travel free.
Fota Wildlife Park (%021-481 2678; www.fotawildlife.ie;

Carrigtwohill; adult/child/under-2s 12.50/8/free; h10am4.30pm Mon-Sat & 11am-4.30pm Sun mid-MarOct, 10am3pm Mon-Sat & 11am-3pm Sun Novmid-Mar, last admission
1hr before closing) is a terrific place, where ani-
mals roam without a cage or fence in sight.

Kangaroos bound past, monkeys and gibbons leap and scream on wooded islands,
and capybaras root around in the bushes.
New to the park is the Cheetah Run at
4pm daily the cats are made to chase their
dinner as it whizzes along a wire at 104 km/
h in front of them.
A tour train runs a circuit round the park
every 15 minutes in high season (one way/
return 1/2), but the 2km circular walk offers a more close-up experience. There are
duck-feeding opportunities, a playground
and caf en route.
From the wildlife park, you can take a
stroll down to the Regency-style Fota House
(% 021-481 5543; www.fotahouse.com; Carrigtwohill;
adult/child 5.50/2.20; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat & 11am5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm daily Nov-Mar, last admission
30min before closing). The interior contains a fine
kitchen and ornate plasterwork ceilings. The

lack of 18th- and 19th-century furnishings is
compensated by info boards and interactive
displays bringing the rooms to life.
Attached to the house is the 150-year-old
arboretum, which has a Victorian fernery,
magnolia walk and some beautiful trees
including giant redwoods and a Chinese
ghost tree.
Fota is 10km east of Cork. The hourly
Cork to Fota train (3.85 return, 13 minutes) goes on to Cobh. Theres a car park
(3) shared by the park and the house.
For many years Cobh was the port of Cork

and has always had a strong connection with
Atlantic crossings. In 1838 the Sirius, the first
steamship to cross the Atlantic, sailed from
Cobh. The Titanic made its last stop here
before its fateful journey in 1912, and when
the Lusitania was torpedoed off the coast of
Kinsale in 1915, it was here that many of the
survivors were brought and the dead buried. Cobh was also the last glimpse of Ireland for the people who emigrated during
the Famine.
In 1849 Cobh was renamed Queenstown
after Queen Victoria paid a visit. The name
lasted until Irish independence in 1921 when,
unsurprisingly, the local council reverted to
the Irish Cobh.
The worlds first yacht club, the Royal Cork
Yacht Club, was founded here in 1720, but
now operates from Crosshaven on the other
side of Cork Harbour.
Orientation
Cobh is on Great Island, which fills much of
Cork Harbour, and is joined to the mainland
by a causeway. It faces Haulbowline Island
(once the base of the Irish Naval Service)
and the greener Spike Island (which houses a
prison). The waterfront comprises the broad
Westbourne Pl and West Beach, from where
steep streets climb inland. Theres a delightful
waterside park with a bandstand and playground next to the tourist office.
Information
The Old Yacht Club contains a tourist office
(%481 3301; www.cobhharbourchamber.ie;h9.30am5.30pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat-Sun) and arts centre.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
lonelyplanet.com
214 A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y C o b h
Sights
Titanic Trail (%481 5211; www.titanic-trail.com;
COBH, THE QUEENSTOWN STORY
adult/child 9.50/4.75; h11am year-round & 2pm May

& Jun-Aug) Michael Martins1-hour guided walk leaves
from the Commodore Hotel on Westbourne Pl, with a free
sampling of stout at the end. Contact Michael for details of
his ghoulish Ghost Walk (15).
Part of Cobh train station has been cleverly

converted into an unmissable heritage centre
(%481 3591; www.cobhheritage.com; Cobh Heritage Centre;
adult/child 6.60/3.30; h9.30am-6pm May-Oct & 10am-5pm
Nov-Apr, last admission 1hr before closing; w), which is a
cut above many other interpretative centres.

It contains a fascinating series of exhibitions
about Irelands mass emigrations in the wake
of the Famine, when some families became so
desperate to leave they boarded leaky vessels
that became known as coffin ships. Theres
also some shocking stuff on the fate of convicts, shipped to Australia in transport so
airless that candles could not burn. The era
of the great liners is re-created, including the
tragedies of the Titanic and Lusitania, both
intimately connected to Cobh.
For people trying to trace ancestors theres
a genealogy centre attached. For those more
interested in a bun and a cup of tea, theres an
adjoining caf (see right).
ST COLMANS CATHEDRAL
Standing dramatically above Cobh on a hillside terrace, the massive French Gothic St
Colmans Cathedral (%481 3222; Cathedral Pl; admission
by donation) is out of all proportion to the unassuming town. Its most exceptional feature
is the 47-bell carillon, the largest in Ireland,
with a range of four octaves. The biggest bell
weighs a stonking 3440kg about as much as
a full-grown elephant! You can hear carillon
recitals at 4.30pm on Sundays between May
and September.
The cathedral, designed by Pugin, was
begun in 1868 but not completed until
1915. Much of the funding was raised by
nostalgic Irish communities in Australia
and the USA.
COBH MUSEUM
A small museum (%481 4240; www.cobhmuseum

.com; High Rd; adult/child 2/1; h11am-1pm Mon-Sat
& 2-5.30pm daily Apr-Oct) is housed in the 19th-
century Scottish Presbyterian church overlooking the train station. There are model
ships, paintings, photographs and curious
artefacts tracing Cobhs history.
Tours
Marine Transport Services (%481 1485; www.mts
.ie) One-hour boat tours (adult/child 5.50/3.50) four
times daily June to September.
Sleeping
Westbourne House (%481 1391; 12 Westbourne Pl; s/d
25/50) The friendly owner of this historical
house (an old shipping agents) provides good
value beyond the reasonable price. Lavish it
aint, but the rooms are big and sunny and
the many yachting pictures go with those
harbour views.
Commodore Hotel (%481 1277; www.commodore
hotel.ie; Westbourne Pl; s/d 57/96) Frequent promotional deals add to the attraction of this classic
seaside hotel. Soaring chandeliered hallways
lead to newly renovated rooms (its worth paying an extra 15 for one with a sea view) and
the whole place exudes a pleasant retro vibe.
Amberleigh (x481 4069; www.amberleigh.ie; West
End Terrace; s/d 60/90;p) Youll receive a warm
welcome at this beautiful Victorian house
perched on a hill overlooking the harbour.
There are just four guest rooms, all of them
enormous with high ceilings and fresh white
dcor. Theres also a guest lounge, with a
crackling fire on chilly evenings.
Knockeven House (%481 1778; www.knockeven
house.com; Rushbrooke; s/d 75/120; p) Knockeven
is a splendid, relaxed Victorian house, 1.5km
north of Cobh. Huge bedrooms are done out
with period furniture and overlook a magnificent garden full of magnolias and camellias.
Breakfasts are great too homemade breads
and fresh fruit and are served in the sumptuous dining room.
Eating & Drinking

Theres a farmers market on the seafront every
Friday from 10am to 1pm.
Queenstown Restaurant (%481 3591; lunch 47; h10am-5pm) Coffee, tea and tasty lunches,
including salads and lasagne, are served up
in Cobhs Old Railway Station. You eat on
the platform surrounded by trunks, timetables and a nostalgic longing for the age
of steam.
Jacobs Ladder (%481 5566; www.watersedgehotel
.ie; lunch 6-14, dinner 18-28; h11.30am-9pm) This
upbeat restaurant at the Waters Edge Hotel
has a great view over the harbour. Its fairly
pricey and has a wide range of meat, poultry
and excellent fish dishes, all done with some

creativity.
Kellys (%481 1994; Westbourne Pl) Sunny Kellys
is filled with sociable punters day and night.
The pubs two rooms are decked out with
pew-style seating, chunky wooden furniture,
a wood-burning stove and, curiously, a stags
head. Its also a great spot to watch televised
sport.
Getting There & Away

Cobh is 15km southeast of Cork, off the
main N25 CorkRosslare road. Hourly
trains connect Cobh with Cork (5.25 return,
24 minutes).
Getting Around
All of Cobhs sites are within walking distance. If you need a cab try the Cobh Taxi Owners
Association (%086-815 8631).
MIDLETON & AROUND

%021 / pop 3900
Most visitors sweep through the Midleton

area on their way to the Old Midleton Distillery but its worth a bit more of your time.
Rather ambitiously named the Irish Riviera
by the tourist board, its nonetheless full of
pretty villages, craggy coastline and some
heavenly rural hotels. Midleton itself is a
pleasant and bustling market town though
with plenty of accommodation in the surrounding area, theres no real reason to
stay here.
The tourist office (% 461 3702; www.eastcork
tourism.com; h9.30am-1pm & 2-5.15pm Mon-Sat May-Sep)
is by the entrance gate to the distillery.
Sights
The big attraction in town is the former
Jameson Old Midleton Distillery (%461 3594; www
.jamesonwhiskey.com; adult/concession 9.75/6; h9am6pm). Coach-loads pour in to tour the re-
stored 200-year-old building and purchase

bottles from the gift shop. Jamesons delicious 12-year distillery reserve is available
nowhere in the world except here.
You visit as part of one-hour guided tours
(h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, at 11.30am, 2.30pm & 4pm NovFeb). They start with a film and continue
with a walk that reveals the whole whiskeymaking process. The tour ends in the bar,
where everyone gets a free snifter, and luckier volunteers get to taste assorted Irish whiskeys, Scotch and bourbon.
A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y M i d l e t o n & A r o u n d 215
SMOKIN
Two kilometres out of town on the N25
towards Fota, the effervescent Frank Hederman runs Belvelly (x 481 1089; www
.frankhederman.com), the oldest natural smokehouse in Ireland and indeed the only one.
Seafood and cheese are smoked here, but
the speciality is fish, in particular salmon.
In a traditional process that takes 24 hours
from start to finish, the fish is filleted and
cured before being hung in the tiny smokehouse to smoke over beechwood chips. No
trip to Cork is complete without a visit to
an artisan food producer, and Frank is more
than happy to show you around phone
or email to arrange.
Sleeping & Eating

Midleton Farmers Market is one of Corks best
markets, with tons of local produce on offer
and producers happy to chat. Its on every
Saturday morning behind the courthouse
on Main St.
oFarmgate Restaurant (%463 2771; the
Coolbawn; hcoffee & snacks 9am-5.30pm, lunch 12.304pm Mon-Sat, dinner 6.45-9.30pm Thu-Sat) The original
and sister establishment to Corks Farmgate

Caf (p207), the Midleton restaurant offers
the same superb blend of traditional and
modern Irish in its approach to cooking. In
the front is a shop selling local produce, including organic fruit and vegetables, cheeses
and preserves. Behind is the farmhouse-style
caf-restaurant, where youll eat as well as
anywhere in Ireland.
Bayview Hotel (% 464 6746; www.thebayview
hotel.com; Ballycotton; s/d 127/190; p) The cliff-top
Bayview is all about the ocean with terrific
vistas from its lounges, restaurant and swish
bedrooms (for the best views, ask for a 3rdfloor room with a balcony). Theres nowt to
do here but drink in that view, laze on the
terrace, meander along the cliffs or enjoy
a pint in the village the Blackbird does a
good pull of the black stuff.

Midleton is 20km east of Cork. There are
buses every 30 minutes from Monday to
Saturday (hourly on Sunday) from Cork bus
station (5, 25 minutes). There are no buses
between Cobh and Midleton, and youll need
a car to explore the surrounding area.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
216 A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y Y o u g h a l
YOUGHAL
%024 / pop 6400
The ancient walled seaport of Youghal (Eochaill; pronounced yawl), at the mouth of
the River Blackwater, has history coming out
of its ears and really makes the most of it.
The town was a hotbed of rebellion against
the English in the 16th century, and Oliver
Cromwell wintered here in 1649 as he sought
to drum up support for his war in England
and quell insurgence from the pesky Irish.
Youghal was granted to Sir Walter Raleigh
during the Elizabethan Plantation of Munster, and he spent brief spells living here in
his house, Myrtle Grove.
Orientation & Information

The Clock Gate at the southern end of North
Main St is Youghals major landmark.
Youghal Visitor Centre (%20170; www.eastcork
tourism.com; Market Sq; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am5pm Sat & Sun), housed in an attractive old mar-
ket house on the waterfront, contains a small

heritage centre that will help you get to grips
with all that history. Pick up the free leaflet
Youghal Town Trail, or the excellent booklet Youghal: Historic Walled Port (4.50) to
learn more.
Guided tours (adult/child 6/3) lasting 1
hours, leave the visitor centre at 10.30am
Monday to Friday during July and August
(on request at other times).
Youghal has two Blue Flag beaches (clean,
safe beaches given the EU Blue Flag award),
ideal for building sandcastles and swimming.
Claycastle (2km) and Front Strand (1km) are

both within walking distance of town, off the
N25. Claycastle has wheelchair access and
summer lifeguards.
Whale of a Time (x086-328 3256; www.whaloeofa
time.ie) runs sea and river cruises (adult/child
20/15), including whale-watching trips.
Dinky Foxs Lane Folk Museum (%20170, 291 145;
www.tyntescastle.com/fox; North Cross Lane; adult/child 4/2;
h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat Jul-Aug) contains more
than 600 household gadgets dating from 1850

to 1950, and a Victorian kitchen.
Walking Tour
Youghals history is best understood through
its landmarks. Heading through town from
south to north, this tour details the more
prominent sights.
The curious Clock Gate was built in 1777, and
served as a clock tower and jail concurrently:
several prisoners taken in the 1798 Rising
were hung from its windows.
The beautifully proportioned brick Red
House, on North Main St, was designed in
1706 by the Dutch architect Leuventhen,
and features some Dutch Renaissance details. A few doors further up the street are
six almshouses built by Englishman Richard
Boyle, who bought Raleighs Irish estates
and became the first earl of Cork in 1616 in
recognition of his work in creating a very
excellent Colony. The almshouses were
given to ex-soldiers, along with an annual
pension of 5.
Across the road is 15th-century Tyntes Castle (http://tyntescastle.com), which originally had a
defensive riverfront position. When the River
DETOUR: THE BALLYMALOE EXPERIENCE

Drawing up at wisteria-clad Ballymaloe House (%465 2531; www.ballymaloe.ie; Shanagarry; s/d from
165/260; pw), you know youve arrived somewhere special. The Allen family has been running
this superb hotel and restaurant in the old family home for more than 40 years now and the
place just keeps getting better. The rooms have been individually decorated in period furnishings
and are a pleasing mass of different shapes and sizes. The Grey Room, with its double-aspect
windows, is our favourite. Guests can enjoy the garden, tennis court, swimming pool, shop,
minigolf and public rooms. And dont forget the celebrated restaurant, its menu drawn up daily
to reflect the availability of local produce. The hotel also runs wine and gardening weekends
check the website for details.
A few kilometres down the road on the R628, the Allens cookery school (x464 6785; www
.cookingisfun.ie) sits on 100 acres of land. Lessons, from half-day sessions (50 to 105) to 12week certificate courses (around 9000), take place in the old apple-storage house, and the
teaching style is relaxed and encouraging. There are pretty cottages in the grounds for overnight students.
Blackwater silted up and changed course in

the 17th and 18th centuries, the castle was
left high and dry.
Built in 1220, St Marys Collegiate Church
incorporates elements of an earlier Danish
church dating back to the 11th century. Inside theres a monument to Richard Boyle,
portrayed with his wife and 16 kids. The Earl
of Desmond and his troops, rebelling against
English rule, demolished the chancel roof in
the 16th century; and Cromwell is believed to
have given a funerary speech inside for a fallen
general in 1650. The churchyard is bounded
by a fine stretch of the 13th-century town wall
and one of the remaining turrets.
Beside the church, Myrtle Grove is the
former home of Sir Walter Raleigh. Local
tradition claims that he smoked the first cigarette and planted the first potatoes here, but
historians (the spoilsports) tend to disagree.
His gardens, on the other side of St Marys,
have recently been restored and are open to
the public.
Sleeping
Clonvilla Caravan & Camping Park (% 98288;
[email protected]; Clonpriest; camp sites 20; hMarOct) Facilities are basic at this small site 4km
out of town, but its quiet enough.

Roseville (%92571; www.rosevillebb.com; New Catherine St; s 45-50, d 61-70; hmid-Janmid-Dec; p)
In the heart of Youghal, shiny red Roseville

with its own walled garden has the mood of
a country house. The rooms wont win any
style awards but youll sleep well on big comfy
beds and be assured of a cheery welcome from
landlady Phyllis.
Avonmore House (x92617; www.avonmoreyoughal
.com; South Abbey; s/d 50/70) This grand Georgian house near the clock tower swims in
history. Built in 1752 on the site of a Franciscan abbey destroyed by Cromwellian
troops, Avonmore belonged to the earls of
Cork before passing into private hands in
1826. Things are a lot less turbulent these
days expect bright, plain rooms and
friendly hosts.
Ballymakeigh (x249 5184; www.ballymakeighhouse
.com; Killeagh; s/d 75/130) Down a winding lane,
past the cows and banks lined with bluebells
in spring, Ballymakeigh is farmhouse lodging at its best. There are six simple, stylish
bedrooms, a working farm to explore and a
tennis court for the active. Landlady Margaret Browne is a former TV chef, so dont
A R O U N D C O R K C I T Y Y o u g h a l 217
miss out on her five-course dinners (45).

Ballymakeigh is 12km west of Youghal, near
the village of Killeagh.
Ahernes (%92424; www.ahernes.net; 163 North Main
St; s/d 150/240; pw) This charming four-star
place has individually decorated rooms furnished with antiques. Theres a great sense
of style and comfort and, best of all, you
get a fabulous breakfast in the restaurant
(see below).
Eating
Ahernes Seafood Bar & Restaurant (%92424; 163
North Main St; bar food 12-38, dinner 24-38; h bar
food noon-10pm, dinner 6.30-9.30pm) If youre seri-
ous about seafood the only place to eat in

Youghal is Ahernes, an award-winning
restaurant justifiably famous for its terrific
menu. If the restaurant is too formal, sample
fishy delights in the cosy bar the salmon
and potato gratin is the very definition of
comfort food.
Priory (x92574; www.thepriory.ie; 56 North Main St;
h9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun,
extended opening hours in summer) This delightful
sandwich bar and deli specialises in Irish

and artisanal produce. The ciabattas (from
3.55) are named after famous chefs; our favourite is the Allen, stuffed with Irish ham,
Cashel blue and Ballymaloe relish. You can
perch on tall stools inside, or have a hamper made up to take to the beach. At the
time of writing, there were plans to open a
restaurant too.
Drinking & Entertainment

Dancing Thru the Ages (% 92571; www.dancing
thrutheages.com; Mall Arts Centre; adult/child 20/15;
h 8.30pm Wed & Thu Jul-Aug) Irish dancing is
given a contemporary twist by dancers and
musicians who clearly enjoy the frenetic
shows as much as the audience does. Tickets
are available at the Mall Arts Centre or the
Youghal Visitor Centre.
For an end-of-day pint and traditional
live music, nowhere beats Treacys (aka the Nook;
20 North Main St), Youghals oldest boozer.
Getting There & Around

Bus ireann (%450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) run frequent services to Cork (8.80, 50 minutes,
14 daily) and Waterford (13, 1 hours,
11 daily).
Streetside disc parking costs 0.60 per hour,
but some of the car parks are free.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
Sights & Activities
lonelyplanet.com
Market
Sq
47 3
O'Con
Main St
nell St
4
St
Market
24
33 41
34
49
28
46
38
26
25
32
48 45
St
18
Higher
The R
ampa
rts
Cork
23
42
6pm mid-Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Novmid-Mar, last admission

45min before closing). This is one of the best-
16
The Glen
Old Presbytery.............................18
Olde Bakery.................................19
Perryville House...........................20
Pier House....................................21
San Antonio.................................22
C2
A5
C4
B4
C2
EATING
Crackpots.....................................23
Cucina..........................................24
Dino's...........................................25
Farmers Market............................26
Fishy Fishy Caf............................27
Hoby's..........................................28
Jim Edwards.................................29
Jola's............................................30
Man Friday..................................31
Max's Wine Bar............................32
Muddy Mahers.............................33
Quay Food Co..............................34
Spaniard Bar & Restaurant...........35
Spinnaker's Bar & Restaurant.......36
SuperValu....................................37
Vintage Restaurant......................38
Vista Wine Bar.............................39
B2
B3
B4
B3
B4
B3
C3
A5
C5
B4
B3
B3
C5
C5
C4
B4
B5
ENTERTAINMENT
Acton's Hotel...............................40 B5
An Seanachai...............................41 B3
Bacchus........................................42 B3
Harbour Bar.................................43 C5
Spaniad Bar & Restaurant...........(see 35)
White Lady Hotel Nightclub.........44 A5
12
29
Emmet Pl
6
SHOPPING
Giles Norman Gallery...................45
Granny's Bottom Drawer..............46
Kinsale Crystal..............................47
Mickio & the Guy.........................48
Roots Records...............................49
1
10
5
8
17
37
21
B4
B3
B3
B4
B3
TRANSPORT
Buses for Cork..............................50 B4
50
all
Kinsale
Harbour
20
COUNTY CORK
O'
Co
nn
Rd
ell
rn
St
ste
Ea
Th
27
uay
gQ
Lon
Lo
we
r
40
Rd
30
13
De
nn
is
Pie
19
31
ua
44
To R600; West Cork;

Garrettstown House
Holiday Park (11km)
To Kinsale Harbour
Cruises (50m);
Castlepark Marina Centre;
James Fort (2.1km)
is original but the exterior is preserved beautifully. The graveyard has some interesting
large family tombs, and several victims of the
Lusitania sinking are also buried there. Inside,
a flat stone carved with a round-handed figure was traditionally rubbed by fishermens
wives to bring their husbands home safe from
the sea.
43
36
Rd
39
gh
Hi
in 1601. Since then it has served as a custom

house, as a prison for French and American captives and as a workhouse during the
Famine. There are lively exhibits detailing its
history and a small wine museum relating the
story of the Irish wine trade.
St Multose is the patron saint of Kinsale,
and the Church of Ireland church (rectory %477
2220; Church St) is one of Irelands oldest, built
around 1190 by the Normans on the site of a
6th-century church. Not much of the interior
22
11
concession 2.50/1.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)
4855; www.winegeese.ie; Cork St; adult/child 2.90/1.20;

h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Easter-end Oct, last admission
45min before closing) was occupied by the Spanish
Av
14
A sweet little museum (%477 7930; Market Sq; adult/
preserved 17th-century star-shaped forts

in Europe, and is worth a visit for its spectacular views alone. It was built in the 1670s
to guard Kinsale Harbour and remained in
use until 1921, when much of the fort was
destroyed as the British withdrew. Most of
the ruins you see inside date from the 18th
and 19th centuries. The best way to get here
is to walk follow the signs around the bay
from Scilly.
An early-16th-century tower house (%477
r's
15
St
Theres a post office and an Allied Irish

Bank with ATM on Pearse St. Toilets are
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Desmond Castle.............................7 C2
Herlihy's Guided Tour..................(see 6)
Kinsale Angling Co-op....................8 C3
Museum........................................9 C3
Mylie Murphy's............................10 C3
St Multose Church........................11 B2
Wine Museum.............................(see 7)
Pearse
Information
B3
C3
B3
ell
Guardw
Most of Kinsales hotels and restaurants

are situated near the harbour and within
easy walking distance of the town centre,
but there are a couple of restaurants out at
Scilly, a peninsula to the southeast. A path
continues from there to Summercove and
Charles Fort.
C3
C3
B3
Sights
is based in the 17th-century courthouse that
was used for the inquest into the sinking of
the Lusitania in 1915. The museum contains
information on the disaster, as well as curiosities as diverse as Michael Collins hurley
stick and shoes belonging to the eight-foot-tall
Kinsale Giant.
In Summercove, 3km east of Kinsale,
stand the huge ruins of 17th-century Charles
Fort (%477 2263; adult/child 3.70/1.30; h10am-
St
Orientation
100m
0.05 mi
SLEEPING
Blue Haven Hotel & Restaurant....12 C3
Chart House................................13 A5
Cloisters.......................................14 C2
Cucina.......................................(see 24)
Friar's Lodge.................................15 B2
Gallery B&B..................................16 C3
Old Bank House...........................17 C4
ch
In September 1601 a Spanish fleet anchored

at Kinsale was besieged by the English. An
Irish army from the north, which had appealed to the Spanish king to help it against
the English, marched the length of the country to liberate the ships, but was defeated in
battle outside the town on Christmas Eve.
For the Catholics, the immediate consequence was that they were banned from
Kinsale; it would be another 100 years before they were allowed back in. Historians
now cite 1601 as the beginning of the end
of Gaelic Ireland.
After 1601 the town developed as a shipbuilding port. In the early 18th century,
Alexander Selkirk left Kinsale Harbour on
a voyage that left him stranded on a desert
island, providing Daniel Defoe with the idea
for Robinson Crusoe.
ur
History
A
INFORMATION
Allied Irish Bank.............................1
Bookstr.........................................2
Elasnik Web Caf............................3
Market Street Drycleaning &
Laundrette..................................4
Post Office.....................................5
Tourist Office.................................6
Ch
Kinsale (Cionn tSile) bursts with life and

colour. Narrow winding streets, tiny houses
and bobbing fishing boats and yachts give it
a seductive picture-postcard feel. Its sheltered
bay is guarded by a huge and startling fort,
just outside the town at Summercove.
Blessed by media visits from personalities such as Keith Floyd and Rick Stein, Kinsale has been labelled the gourmet centre of
Ireland and, for such a small place, it certainly contains far more than its fair share of
international-standard restaurants.
Kinsale also attracts arty types and there
are lots of crafty galleries and shops for treats
and trinkets.
0
0
KINSALE
Fria
KINSALE
Mall) Has all you need for a good read.

Elasnik Web Caf (x477 7356; Market Sq; per
30/60min 2.50/5; h10am-10pm) Free coffee thrown in
with the hourly rate.
Market Street Drycleaning & Laundrette (%477
2875; Market St; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist office (%477 2234; [email protected];
cnr Pier Rd & Emmet Pl; h9.30am-1pm & 2.15-5.30pm
Mon-Sat Mar-Oct, daily Jul-Aug) Opening hours are
flexible, especially in the quieter months. Has a free map
detailing walks in and around Kinsale.
W E S T E R N C O R K K i n s a l e 219
St
r's
next to the tourist office. For online information, check out www.kinsale.ie.
Bookstr (x477 4946; www.bookstor.ie; 1 Newmans
lonelyplanet.com
Fria
WESTERN CORK
%021 / pop 4100
COUNTY CORK
lonelyplanet.com
Short Q
uay
218 W E S T E R N C O R K K i n s a l e
Riv
er
Rd
35
Scilly
To
Dempsey's (300m);
Cork (30km);
Airport (34km)
To The Bulman;
Summercove of
Charles Fort (2km)
Activities
An entertaining stroll through the towns history, Herlihys Guided Tour (%477 2873; adult/child
7/1; h11.15am daily plus 9.15am summer) leaves from
the tourist office.
For sailings to Charles Fort, James Cove
and up the Bandon River you can phone
Kinsale Harbour Cruises (%477 8946, 086-250 5456;
www.kinsaleharbourcruises.com; adult/child 12.50/6). De-
parture times vary through the year and are

weather dependent check the website or
with the tourist office for details. The boats
leave from Denis Quay on Pier Rd, at the
southern end of town.
Whale of a Time (x087-120 3463; www.whale
ofatime.ie) offers weekend coastal cruises from
20/15 per adult/child.
For those interested in fishing, tackle
can be hired at Mylie Murphys (%477 2703; 14
Pearse St) for 10 per day. For deep-sea fishing trips, contact Kinsale Angling Co-Op (%477
4946; www.kinsale-angling.com).
Festivals & Events

Gourmet Festival (www.kinsalerestaurants.com) Tastings, meals and harbour cruises in early October add to the
towns foodie reputation.
Kinsale Fringe Jazz Festival (www.kinsale.ie) Chilledout entertainment over the late-October bank-holiday
weekend.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Kinsale is geared towards the well-heeled.

There are good bus links to Cork city, so you
might consider staying in one of the citys hostels (see p206) and commuting to Kinsale.
Garrettstown House Holiday Park (%/fax 477 8156;
and is located in the grounds of an 18thcentury estate. Its a peaceful setting near an
excellent beach but it can get rowdy with families in summer. The park is 1.3km southwest
of Ballinspittle (11km southwest of Kinsale)
on the R600.
Dempseys (x772 124; Eastern Rd; dm 15) Slightly
out of town on the road to Cork, this is Kinsales cheapest option. There are separate male
and female dorms with wide bunks, a kitchen,
and picnic tables in the front garden. Buy supplies from the Texaco garage next door.
MIDRANGE
Cloisters (x470 0680; www.cloisterskinsale.com; Friar St;

s 70, d 80-90) Little touches make the difference
at this delightful B&B near Desmond Castle.
A smiling welcome and chocolates await your
arrival and the orthopaedic mattresses are so
comfy only the cooked breakfasts will tempt
you out of bed. Room 5, with its striking black
and white scheme, is our top choice though
all the rooms have smart dcor.
Olde Bakery (%477 3012; www.theoldebakery.com;

56 Lower OConnell St; r 80) A short walk southwest of the centre is this very friendly place
that once was the British garrison bakery.
Rooms are a reasonable size and terrific
breakfasts around the kitchen table get
everyone chatting.
Chart House (x477 4568; www.charthouse-kinsale
.com; 6 Dennis Quay; s 80-130, d 120-170; p) Theres
a relaxed elegance about this Georgian townhouse which makes it an incredibly comfortable place to stay. Drapes, chandeliers and
antique pieces furnish the rooms and the large
bathrooms have Jacuzzis. Youll be treated to
tea and coffee once youre settled in.
Other recommendations:
Cucina (x470 0707; www.cucina.ie; 9 Market St; r 80)
Fresh, neutrally decorated rooms in the heart of town.
Breakfast isnt included but youre only a skip away from
Cucinas caf (see opposite).
Gallery B&B (x477 4558; www.gallerybnb.com; the
Glen; s 55, d 90-110) An exterior so bright itll give you
concussion. Comfortable rooms inside and artistic hosts
who serve ice cream for breakfast.
San Antonio (%477 2341; 1 Friar St; s/d 40/70; p)
Fine old house with a cosy, old-fashioned interior and
landlord Jimmie is an absolute star.
TOP END
oOld Presbytery (x477 2027; www.oldpres

.com; Cork St; s 90, d 100-160; hclosed Janmid-Feb)
The Old Presbytery is a wonderful, creaking,

tilting treasure of a house filled with curios
and antiques. Irish linen hangs from a drying rack as you come through the front door,
old prams line the corridors and a lot of love
has gone into the individual decoration of
each guestroom. Stay in room 6 only if you
have plans to see nothing of Kinsale with its
sunroom and balcony, youll never want to
leave. The breakfasts, cooked by landlord and
former chef Phillip, are the stuff of legend.
Pier House (%477 4475; www.pierhousekinsale.com;
Pier Rd; r 120-140) This superb B&B, set back
from the road in a sheltered garden, is one of
the best places in Ireland to rest your head.
Pristine rooms, decorated with shell-anddriftwood sculptures, have black-granite
bathrooms attached with power showers,
underfloor heating and special non-misting
mirrors! Four of the rooms also have balconies and sea views. The whole place is wonderfully decorated and equipped, with bold
artworks, modern furniture, a hot tub, sauna
and barbecue.
lonelyplanet.com
Old Bank House (%477 4075; www.oldbankhouse

kinsale.com; 11 Pearse St; standard r 120-170, deluxe 160230) Georgian elegance and style give a timeless quality to this top-of-the-range hotel.
Beautiful objets dart and paintings grace the
walls, and the luxurious public rooms add a
country-house ambience. The owners are
lovely, and breakfasts, with homemade breads
and jams, are superb.
Perryville House (x477 2731; www.perryvillehouse
.com; Long Quay; s 150, d 200-380;p) Its top to
bottom grandeur at family-run Perryville,
whether youre pulling up outside its imposing wrought-iron-clad faade or taking afternoon tea in the drawing room. There are
nice touches throughout, with fresh flowers,
antiques and dressing gowns in all the rooms.
The more expensive suites have king-sized
four-poster beds, sea views and the biggest
bathrooms weve ever seen. Cooked breakfast
is extra (12).
Also recommended:
Blue Haven Hotel & Restaurant (%477 2209; www
W E S T E R N C O R K K i n s a l e 221
balcony. Come for quiches and the baking at

lunch, tapas in the evening (from 6pm) and
wine and coffee any time of day.
Dinos (%477 4561; Pier Rd; mains 9-12; h8am10.30pm) This nautically themed chipper and
family restaurant is Kinsales most convenient cheap fuel stop. Besides fish and chips,
Dinos does breakfasts (6.50) and an all-day
four-courser (21.95).
Spaniard Bar & Restaurant (%477 2436; www
.thespaniard.ie; Scilly) This is a good old seafarers
bar on Scilly, with low ceilings and a peat fire,
so why not crack some crab claws or settle
for a sandwich at the bar. Meals at the bar
are between 6 and 17.50 (with prices for
most dishes around 10). Theres a pricier
restaurant upstairs; mains are between 17.50
and 22. Wednesday is trad music night and
there are other impromptu sessions throughout the year.
Muddy Mahers (%477 4602; www.muddymaher.com;
1 Main St; mains 10-22; hnoon-3pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Fri,
noon-9.30pm Sat & Sun) The big bar meals here are
.bluehavenkinsale.com; 3 Pearse St; 140-230) Boutique

hotel with lavishly comfortable rooms and incredibly
accommodating service. Off-season deals make it a real
winner.
Friars Lodge (x477 7384; www.friars-lodge.com;
Friar St; r from 150) A guestbook full of praise attests to
the bliss to be had here, from the decanter of sherry waiting in reception to warm squishy rooms.
good and tasty. The menu includes plenty

of meat dishes, veggie options, a great ocean
chowder (6), an even better fish pie (10.50)
and well-filled sandwiches, including the Holy
Cow! steak special (9).
Kinsale has a SuperValu (Pearse St; h8.30am-9pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun) and the tremendous Quay
Food Co (%477 4000; www.quayfood.com; Market Quay;
Eating
sandwiches 3.75; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm

Mon-Sat) for local produce and little luxuries.
Kinsale fully deserves its billing as the gourmet capital of the west and you can eat
wonderfully on every budget. The towns
busy fleet of fishing vessels ensures that the
towns restaurants have a particularly high
reputation for seafood. Theres a weekly
farmers market (9.30am-1.30pm Tue) in front of Jim
Edwards restaurant.
BUDGET
Cucina (x470 0707; www.cucina.ie; 9 Market St; meals

4-14;h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, last orders 4pm) To a laidback soundtrack of electro-lounge, welcoming
Cucina serves up healthy wraps, salads and
soups in a bright, Mediterranean-feel dining
room. An inventive brunch menu is served
until 11.30am.
Vista Wine Bar (x470 6866; Shearwater, Pier Rd; lunch
4-14, tapas 5-9) This shiny modern bar has spectacular views over the marina, and voyeurs
will enjoy spying on the sun-kissed sailors
pottering about on their boats beneath the
MIDRANGE
oFishy Fishy Cafe (x470 0415; Crowleys Quay;

mains 13-33; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Fishy Fishy was voted Seafood Restaurant of

the Year 2007 by the Georgina Campbell food
guides. The setting is beautifully understated,
with stark white walls splashed with bright
artwork and a terrific decked terrace at the
front. All the fish is caught locally, from the
fried haddock in Kinsale beer to the best oaksmoked salmon weve ever tasted. Plump for
the Fishy Fishy Pie (19.50), chock-full of
salmon and seafood, if you want to try a little
bit of everything.
Jim Edwards (%477 2541; www.jimedwardskinsale
.com; Market Quay; bar meals 7-19, restaurant meals 1530; hbar 12.30-10pm, restaurant 6-10pm) Like many
places in Kinsale, this much-frequented eatery

has bar food of a restaurant standard. A steady
Irish touch is nicely frothed with European influences. In the bar you may need to fight for
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
www.garrettstownhouse.com; camp sites 13; hAprmidSep) This is the closest camp site to Kinsale,
attention amid the clamour, but once served

youll want to stay all night. The restaurant
specialises in steaks and fish, and does an
excellent seafood platter for 29.90.
Bulman (%477 2131; www.thebulman.com; Summercove; mains 16-21; h12.30-9.30pm) This is seaside
eating at its best. The Bulman is an escape
from central Kinsale to an unspoilt harbourside venue where salty informality is a style in
its own right. Seafood excels here, with chowder or salmon cakes for lunch and dinners
that add adventurous New World touches
to sea bream and tiger prawns, among many
choices.
Also recommended:
Crackpots (x477 2847; [email protected]; Cork St; mains
17-26; hfrom 6pm Wed-Sat) A ceramic restaurant
serving an international menu on crockery made in the onsite pottery. A three-course set menu is available between
6pm and 7pm for 25.
Spinnakers Bar & Restaurant (x477 2098; www
.kinsalerestaurants.com; Scilly; mains 14-25) A bright,
jaunty pub on the water, serving local seafood, fish and
steak.
TOP END
Vintage Restaurant (%477 2502; www.vintagerestaurant

.ie; 50 Main St; mains 18-24; h6-10pm Tue-Sun, closed Jan)
lonelyplanet.com
W E S T E R N C O R K C l o n a k i l t y 223
Hobys (%477 2200; 5 Main St; mains 18-25; h610.30pm) More excellent Irish-European cuisine
Drinking & Entertainment
Getting Around
oHarbour Bar (x477 2528; Scilly; hfrom 6pm)
is served at this swish place. Subtle colours,

thoughtful seating, candlelight and friendly
service make you feel that its all just for
you. A three-course set menu is available
for 27.50.
oJolas (x477 3322 www.jolasrestaurant
Romping home in Kinsales most unusual

bar stakes, this is a little gem of a place. Its so
much like being in someones front room that
you forget youre in a bar at all. Landlord Tim
presides over the battered old sofas and small
brick bar, shares stories and keeps the fire
stoked in the hearth. Wonderfully bonkers.
Spaniard Bar & Restaurant (%477 2436; www
.thespaniard.ie; Scilly) There are stomping trad sessions in the lounge bar every night except
Tuesday and Thursday.
Actons Hotel (%477 2135; www.actonshotelkinsale
.com; Pier Rd) Stages a terrific Sunday lunchtime
jazz session in its Waterfront bar, featuring
the famous Cork City Jazz Band.
An Seanachai (%477 7077; 6 Market St) This cavernous barnlike pub has trad music sessions
every night Friday to Monday.
Bacchus (%477 2382; www.bacchuskinsale.com; Main
St; h11pm-2.30am Thu-Sat) This nightclub has a
breezy, youngish crowd at weekends, with
live bands on Fridays.
You can hire bikes from Mylie Murphys (%477

2703; 14 Pearse St; per day 10). For a taxi call Kinsale Cabs (%477 2642).
.com; 18-19 Lower OConnell St; lunch 6-10, dinner 2025; hnoon-3.30pm & 6pm-late, caf open all day) With
its double-height ceilings, exposed brick

walls, stunning chandelier and warm brown
tones, Jolas brings a dash of metropolitan
style to Kinsale. The food is equally adept,
confidently marrying Eastern European and
Irish cuisine. The blinis are our favourite but
nothing on the menu will disappoint you,
from the veal with horseradish mash to the
lamb shank with boczek (Polish pork belly). A
three-course set menu costs 25.95 between
6pm and 7pm.
Man Friday (%477 2260; www.man-friday.net; cnr
River & High Rds, Scilly; mains 21-30; h6.30-10.15pm)
Out of town, at relaxing Scilly, this 30-yearold restaurant has outdoor seating with views
across the harbour to Kinsale. Book if you
want a terrace table on balmy evenings. While
excellent fish dishes are the norm, there are
also great steak, lamb, duck and vegetarian
options.
Maxs Wine Bar (%477 2443; 48 Main St) This local
favourite was closed for renovation at the time
of writing, but should be open by the time
youre in town. Expect Irish-French crossover
in both surroundings and cuisine.
DETOUR: KINSALE & CLONAKILTY

Along the coastal road between Kinsale and Clonakilty are three magnificent restaurants. If youre
remotely interested in good Irish food, plan to make a detour.
Dillons (x023-46390; Timoleague; mains 18-24, no credit cards; hThu-Sun dinner) Bright, inviting Dillons
serves interesting variations on Irish staples in its bistro-style dining room. The emphasis is on meat
(for example, Skeaglianore duck breast or roast quail) but there are interesting fish and veggie
options too, such as tomato and goats cheese bread pudding. No credit cards accepted.
Casino House (x023-49944; Kilbrittain; mains 19-27; hThu-Mon dinner, closed Janmid-Mar) A bright,
simply decorated farmhouse overlooking a sparkling bay is the perfect setting for the modern
Irish cuisine of Casino House. Local produce is used in every dish; depending on the season, you
might expect to see Ummera salmon, Ballydehob duck or Kilbrittain lamb on the menu.
Ottos Creative Cooking (x023-40461; www.ottoscreativecatering.com; Dunworley, near Butlerstown,
near Bandon; hlunch Sun, dinner Wed-Sat, closed Jan & Feb) You have to book at this remote spot at
a stunning location near Butlerstown. Theres plenty of choice on the set menus, with all the
produce locally sourced and much of it organic and coming from Ottos itself. A four-course lunch
is available for 35, a five-course dinner for 55. Why not make a night of it and stay in one of
the individually decorated guestrooms (110/130 for a single/double) reserved for diners?
Shopping
Giles Norman Gallery (%477 4373; 45 Main St) Theres
a big selection of evocative black-and-white
imagery of Ireland here, from a master of
the genre. Prints start at 30/45 (unframed/
framed).
Grannys Bottom Drawer (%477 4839; 53 Main St)
A great range of exquisite Irish linen, damask and vintage-style homeware is sold at
this cheerful shop.
Kinsale Crystal (% 477 4493; Market St) Sells
exquisite work by an ex-Waterford craftsman who stands by the traditional deepcutting, high-angle style. A wine glass will
set you back 60, while large pieces are in
the hundreds.
Mickio & the Guy (x470 0921; www.mickioandthe
guy.ie; 38 Main St) Traditional toys and cool
clobber keep kids happy and stylish at this
classy emporium.
Roots Records (%477 4963; www.rootsrecords.ie;
1 Short Quay) This useful music shop has absolutely everything from trad to reggae.

Bus ireann (%450 8188) services connect Kinsale with Cork (5.90, 50 minutes, 14 daily
Monday to Friday, 11 Saturday and five
Sunday). The bus stops at the Esso garage
on Pier Rd, near the tourist office.
CLONAKILTY
%023 / pop 4150
Cheerful, brightly coloured Clonakilty is

a bustling market town that knows how
to look after its visitors. Youll find smart
B&Bs, top restaurants and cosy pubs alive
with great music.
Clonakilty is famous for two important
Cork products. Firstly, it was the birthplace
of Michael Collins (see boxed text, p224), a
matter of extreme pride to the community;
a statue of the Big Fella stands on the corner
of Emmet Sq. Secondly, its the source of the
best black pudding in Ireland. It features on
many local restaurant menus and you can
buy varieties based on 19th-century recipes
from Edward Twomey (%33733; www.clonakiltyblack
pudding.ie; 16 Pearse St; puddings from 2.50).
History
Clonakilty received its first charter in 1292
but was re-founded in the early 17th century by Richard Boyle, the first earl of Cork.
He settled it with 100 English families and
planned a Protestant town from which Catholics would be excluded. His plan ultimately
failed: Clonakilty is now very Irish and very
Catholic the Presbyterian chapel has been
turned into a post office.
From the mid-18th to mid-19th centuries more than 10,000 people worked in the
towns linen industry. The fire station stands
on the site of the old linen market.
Orientation
Roads converge on Asna Sq, dominated by
a monument commemorating the 1798 Rising. Also in the square is the Kilty Stone, a
piece of the original castle that gave Clonakilty (Clogh na Kylte, meaning castle of the
woods) its name.
Information
The Allied Irish Bank (cnr Pearse & Bridge Sts) has an
ATM. The post office is in the old Presbyterian
chapel on Bridge St.
There are public toilets on the corner of
Connolly and Kent Sts.
Fast.Net (x34545; 32 Pearse St; per hr 5; h9am6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Internet access.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
The dcor may be a little fusty these days but

the Vintage is one of the reasons that Kinsale
deserves its gourmet label, with prices that are
truly justifiable. Unbeatable dishes range from
oyster starters to mains of lobster in brandy or
sea bass in white port crme; fish that demand
a magic touch and get it.
lonelyplanet.com
224 W E S T E R N C O R K C l o n a k i l t y
Nostalgia buffs and kids will love West Cork

Model Railway Village (%33224; www.modelvillage.ie;
Inchydoney Rd; adult/child 7/4.25; h11am-5pm Sep-Jun,
10am-5pm Jul-Aug). It features a working replica
of the West Cork Railway as it was during

WWII, and superb miniature models of the
main towns in western Cork c 1940. A road
train (adult/child incl admission to Railway Village 11/6.25;
hdaily summer, weekends winter) leaves from the
Railway Village on a 20-minute commentated circuit of Clonakilty.
The bay is good for swimming, albeit in
a bracing sort of way. The sandy Blue Flag
beach at Inchydoney Island, 4km from town,
is good too, but watch out for the dangerous riptide; when lifeguards are on duty a
red flag indicates danger. The West Cork Surf
School (% 086-869 5396; www.westcorksurfing.com)
is based there, should you fancy a ride on
the waves. A two-hour lesson will set you
back 35.
Sleeping
The towns hostel had shut at the time of
writing; check with the tourist office to see
if another has opened in its place.
Old Brewery La
10
Pears
e
19
St
24
25 17
5
4
Kent St
Emmet 13
Sq
INFORMATION
Allied Irish Bank.............................1
Fast.Net.........................................2
Kerr's Bookshop.............................3
Library............................................4
Post Office.....................................5
Tourist Office.................................6
Wash Basket..................................7
21
A2
A2
C2
B2
A2
C2
A2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

1798 Monument............................8 B2
Clonakilty Museum........................9 A2
Kilty Stone...................................(see 8)
Statue of Michael Collins..............10 A2
3 6
Asna Sq Ashe St
8
27
St
1 7
11
20
n o lly
Bridge S
t
on
To Lisnagun
Ring Fort (3km)
Asn
23
ne St
Wolfe To
To Desert House
Caravan & Camping
Park (1km)
12
16
22
14
a S
t
Rd
nd
Stra
To West Cork Model
Railway Village (100m);
Inchydoney Island (4km);
West Cork Surf School (4km);
Duneen Beach (13km)
26
18
SLEEPING
Bay View House...........................11
Clonakilty Townhouse..................12
Emmet Hotel................................13
Strand House...............................14
Tudor Lodge.................................15
D1
C2
A2
C2
B1
EATING
An Sgn.....................................16
Betty Brosnan...............................17
Courtyard Bar & Bistro..................18
Edward Twomey...........................19
Farmers Market............................20
Gleesons.......................................21
C2
B2
B2
B2
B2
B2
Desert House Caravan & Camping Park (%33331;

[email protected]; Coast Rd; camp site 10, r per
person 35; h Easter & May-Sep) This attractive
park, 1.5km southeast of town on the road
to Ring, is on a dairy farm overlooking the
bay. B&B rooms inside are an orgy of patterned carpets and floral wallpaper.
Tudor Lodge (%33046; www.tudorlodgecork.com;
McCurtain Hill; s 40-45, d 60-70) Very much not a
Tudor Lodge, this modern family home sits
pleasantly above it all a short walk from the
town centre. Standards are kept up to scratch
in impeccably smart, peaceful rooms.
Bay View House (%33539; www.bayviewclonakilty
.com; Old Timoleague Rd; s 40-70, d 80) This frothy
pink house offers immaculate B&B standards,
a genial welcome and great breakfasts. Rooms
5 and 6, and the cosy landing lounge, offer
fantastic views over the fields that slope down
to Clonakilty Bay. Theres also a garden suite,
with private conservatory.
Strand House (%34719; www.ansugan.com; Sand
Quay; s/d 45/70) There are few frills at this B&B
but you do get a relaxed atmosphere and enormous rooms in a great location a couple of
doors down from An Sgn restaurant.
Clonakilty
Bay
Malt House Granary.....................22 C2

O'Keeffe's..................................(see 13)
Richy's Bar & Bistro......................23 C2
ENTERTAINMENT
An Teach Beag.............................24 B2
De Barra's.....................................25 B2
TRANSPORT
Buses for Cork..............................26 C2
MTM Cycles................................27 C2
Clonakilty Townhouse (x35533; www.clonakilty

townhouse.com; Wolfe Tone St; s/d 60/110; w) Theres a
buzzing atmosphere at this large purpose-built
B&B in the centre of town. Spic-and-span
rooms are simply decorated, with snow-white
duvets and sparkling bathrooms, and the service is unfailingly friendly.
Emmet Hotel (%33394; www.emmethotel.com;
Emmet Sq; s/d 65/120) This lovely Georgian accommodation option on the square happily
mixes period charm and old-world service
with the perks of a modern hotel. Rooms
are large and simple, with a relaxing ambience, and OKeeffes Restaurant serves up
tasty Irish food made from organic and
local ingredients.
Eating
Self-caterers should pay a visit to the twiceweekly farmers market (McCurtain Hill; h10am-2pm
Thu & Sat).
Betty Brosnan (%34011; 58 Pearse St; meals 413; h9am-5pm Mon, Tue, Thu-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Wed)
A prime place for affordable yet satisfying

snacks, this busy caf offers lots of breakfast choices (including a 14-inch cooked
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
tour reveals photos, letters and a reconstruction of the 1920s country lane where Collins was
killed, complete with armoured vehicle. The centre also runs car tours of the crucial locations
in Collins life (70, 3 hours). Its signposted off the R600 between Timoleague and Clonakilty.
The Clonakilty Museum (Western Rd; admission 3; hJun-Sep) has some more memorabilia, including Collins weapons and uniform. The museum is run on a voluntary basis: contact the tourist
office for exact opening hours.
To N71;
Skibbereen
(45km)
Rd
tern
Wes
200 m
0.1 mile
To N71;
Michael Collins
Centre (4km);
Beal-na-Blth (30km);
Kinsale (35km);
Cork (50km)
16
Hill
(%023-46107; www.michaelcollinscentre.com; adult/child 10-16 5/3; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat

mid-JunSep) is an excellent way to make sense of his life and that period of Irelands history. A
Of the more than 30,000 ring forts scattered

across Ireland, Lisnagun (Lios na gCon; %32565; www
.liosnagcon.com; adult/child 5/3; hnoon-4pm) is the
only one thats been reconstructed on its
original site. Complete with souterrain and
central thatched hut, it gives a vivid impression of life in a 10th-century farmstead. To
get there, take the turning on the roundabout
at the end of Strand Rd, signposted to Bay
View House B&B. Follow the road uphill
to the T-junction, turn right, then continue
for about 800m before turning right again
(signposted).
0
0
tain
Cur
Mc
County Cork, and especially the Clonakilty area, has a deeply cherished association with Michael
Collins, the Big Fella, commander-in-chief of the army of the Irish Free State, which won independence from Britain in 1922.
Collins was born on a small farm at Woodfield near Clonakilty as the youngest of eight children,
and went to school in the town. He lived and worked in London from 1906 to 1916, returning to
Ireland to take part in the Easter Rising after which he became a key figure in Irish Nationalism.
He revolutionised the way the Irish rebels fought, organising them into guerrilla-style flying
columns, and was the main negotiator of the 1921 AngloIrish Treaty that led to the Irish Free
State. The mixed reaction to the treaty, with many thinking Ireland had made too many concessions to the British, plunged the country into a brutal civil war.
On a tour of western Cork, Michael Collins was ambushed and killed by antitreaty forces on 22
August 1922 at Beal-na-Blth, near Macroom. Each year, a commemorative service is held on the
anniversary of the killing. To visit the site, follow the N22 west from Cork for about 20km, then
take the left turn (R590) to Crookstown. From there turn right onto the R585 to Beal-na-Blth.
The ambush site is on the left after 4km.
A useful map and leaflet In Search of Michael Collins (4) is available at the Clonakilty tourist
office, outlining places in the district associated with him. A visit to the Michael Collins Centre
Sights & Activities
W E S T E R N C O R K C l o n a k i l t y 225
CLONAKILTY
MICHAEL COLLINS THE BIG FELLA
Kerrs Bookshop (x34342; www.kerr.ie; 18 Ashe St)

Sells fiction and guidebooks.
Library (Old Mill Library; %34275; Kent St; h10am6pm Tue-Sat) For a 2.50 membership you can use the
computers for free.
Tourist office (%33226; [email protected];
Ashe St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, 9am-7pm
Mon-Sat & 10am-5pm Sun Jul-Aug) Has a good, free
map.
Wash Basket (%34821; Spillers Lane; h9am-6pm
Mon-Sat) Has a same-day laundry service (8-10).
lonelyplanet.com
226 W E S T E R N C O R K C l o n a k i l t y T o S k i b b e re e n
Irish for the very hungry), sandwiches, lasagne, smoothies and puddings, and caters
for the gluten-intolerant too. The upstairs
gallery displays black-and-white travel photography.
An Sgn (%33719; www.ansugan.com; 41 Wolfe
Tone St; bar meals 4-30, mains 13-25) Another top
choice, this snug little oasis exudes idiosyncratic style. The bar and restaurant are
crammed with knick-knacks jugs dangle
from the ceiling, patrons business cards are
stuffed beneath the rafters, and lanterns and
even ancient fire extinguishers dot the walls.
Seafood is the thing here try the Atlantic
seafood basket of prawns, salmon, scallops
and monkfish in filo pastry.
oMalt House Granary (x34355; 30 Ashe
St; mains 18-25; h5-10pm Mon-Sat) Youll be able
to check out the Clonakilty black pudding,
Boile goats cheese, Gubbeen chorizo and
Bantry Bay mussels among other ingredients on the menu at the Malt House, for
everything on your plate originates from
West Cork. All the dishes are superbly
executed but our favourite has to be the
chicken stuffed with Gubbeen sausage in
Jameson sauce. The interior design is a
hotchpotch of the stylish (dark wood furniture and chunky glassware) and the, erm,
not (whats with this fairy pouring water
into oyster shells?) but such quirks make
us love it even more.
Gleesons (%21834; www.gleesons.ie; 3-4 Connolly
Considered by many to be Clonakiltys best
restaurant, Gleesons gets one rave review
after another. The surrounds are nicely
understated, with wood and a slate dcor,
and the international menu is simple but
perfectly prepared, using organic, fair-trade
and local seasonal food. The seafood is
particularly tasty but for something thatll
really stick to your ribs, how about fillet
of Irish beef with wild mushrooms? For
35 you can indulge in the three-course
set menu.
Also recommended:
Courtyard Bar & Bistro (x35802; 3-4 Hartes Courtyard; mains 4-9) Huge sandwiches, quiches and burgers
served all day. Theres also a lovely riverside terrace.
Richys Bar & Bistro (x21852; www.richysbarand
bistro.com; Wolfe Tone St; lunch 8-16, dinner 14-30)
And now for something completely different a modern
bistro serving West Cork fusion (eg sushi with black
pudding).
Entertainment
oDe Barras (%33381; www.debarra.ie; 55 Pearse
St) A marvellous atmosphere, walls splattered
with photos, press cuttings, masks and musical

instruments, plus the cream of live music every
night of the week (starting around 9.30pm)
make this a busy pub. Noel Redding, bass player
from the Jimi Hendrix Experience, used to be
a Friday-night regular until his death in 2003.
An Teach Beag (%33883; 5 Recorders Alley) This
intriguing pub, part of ODonovans Hotel,
is not as old as it looks, but has all the atmosphere necessary for good traditional music
sessions. You might even catch a scrocht
(a session by storytellers and poets) in full flow.
Theres music nightly during July and August;
the rest of the year its weekends only.

There are eight daily buses Monday to Saturday, and seven Sunday, to Cork (6.80, 65
minutes) and Skibbereen (7, 40 minutes).
Buses stop across from Hartes Spar shop on
the bypass going to Cork.
Getting Around
MTM Cycles (%33584; 33 Ashe St) hires bikes for
10/50 per day/week. A nice cycle is to
Duneen Beach, about 13km south of town.
CLONAKILTY TO SKIBBEREEN
Picturesque villages, a fine stone circle and
calming coastal scenery mark the lessertaken route from Clonakilty to Skibbereen.
Rather than follow the main N71 all the
way, when you get to Rosscarbery turn left
onto the R597 at the far end of the causeway
(signposted Glandore).
Drombeg Stone Circle

On an exposed hillside, with fields sweeping away towards the coast, the Drombeg
stone circle is superbly atmospheric. Its
17 uprights once guarded the cremated
bones of an adolescent, discovered during
a 1960s excavation. The 9m-diameter circle
probably dates from the 5th century AD,
representing a sophisticated Iron Age update
of an earlier Bronze Age monument.
Just beyond the stones are the remains of
a hut and an Iron Age cooking pit, known
as a fulachta fiadh. Experiments have shown
that its heated rocks would boil water and
keep it hot for nearly three hours enough
time to cook hunks of meat.
To get there take the signposted left

turn off the R597, approximately 4km west
of Roscarberry.
Glandore & Union Hall

%028 / pop 250
The pretty waterside villages of Glandore

(Cuan Dor) and Union Hall burst into life
in summer when fleets of yachts tack into
the shelter of the Glandore Harbour inlet.
Union Hall, accessible from Glandore via
a narrow road bridge over the estuary, was
named after the 1800 Act of Union, which
abolished the separate Irish parliament. The
lovely 1994 family film War of the Buttons,
about two battling gangs of youngsters, was
filmed here.
Theres an ATM, post office and general
store in Union Hall and theres food available in both villages. Union Hall has the
most choice, with a deli, coffee shop and
several pubs, two of which have fantastic
waterside terraces.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Delightful Theresa OMahoney runs the

Ceim Hill Museum (% 36280; adult/child 4/2;
h10am-7pm) from her farmhouse off Castletownshend Rd. The small collection of Iron
Age bits and bobs is well worth a glance if
youre passing.
You can splash round the coast with Atlantic Sea Kayaking (%21058; www.atlanticseakayaking
.com; Union Hall; 3hr trip 50; hyear-round). The night
paddles beneath the stars (45, 2 hours)
are particularly popular.
Colin Barnes runs four-hour dolphin- and
whale-watching cruises (% 086-327 3226; www
.whales-dolphins-ireland.com; adult/child 40/30) and
shorter coastal trips from Reen Pier, about
3km beyond Union Hall.
SLEEPING
Meadow Camping Park (%33280; meadowcamping@

eircom.net; Rosscarbery road, Glandore; camp sites 17;
h Easter & Maymid-Sep) This small idyllic
site, in a garden filled with trees and flowers, is 2km east of Glandore on the R597
to Rosscarbery.
Ardagh House (%33571; www.ardaghhouse.com;
Union Hall; s/d 40/70; pi) Youre soon made
to feel part of the family at this restored farmhouse by the harbour. The rooms, many with
sea views, are bright and sunny, and theres
a garden to lounge in too. The house itself is
W E S T E R N C O R K S k i b b e re e n 227
a bit of a star, having made an appearance in

the 1994 flick War of the Buttons.
Bay View House (x33115; Glandore; s/d 45/70)
This is a place with a rather modest name:
Bay View House has spectacular views across
the bay. Try and snag room 1 for the most
jaw-dropping view of all. Bright citrus colours, wood-block flooring, tidy pine furniture
and gleaming bathrooms add to the appeal.
Buses stop in nearby Leap (3km north) where

most B&B owners will pick you up if you arrange it in advance.
Castletownshend
x028 / pop 160
With its grand houses and higgledy-piggledy

cottages dating back to the 17th and 18th
centuries tumbling down the precipitously
steep main street, Castletownshend is
one of Irelands most curious villages. At
the bottom of the hill is a small quayside
and the castle after which the village is
named. Once youve seen these, theres zip
to do, and thats part of the charm its
determinedly untouristy.
There are few better places to recharge
the batteries so why not stay for a day or
two? The Castle (x36100; www.castle-townshend
.com; 50-80 per person), sitting imposingly on the
waterfront, is the stuff of childhood dreams.
There are seven guest rooms exuding battered charm, though the real highlight is the
wood-panelled living room.
Youll deserve a good meal after panting
up the main street to Mary Anns (x36146;
www.maryannbarrestaurant.com; lunch 5-12, dinner 1527). Seafood is the speciality (try the scallops
in saffron if available) though there are more

predictable staples such as fish and chips,
and lamb curry on offer too.
The only way here is by car down the
R596. A taxi (x21258) from Skibbereen costs
10 to 12.
SKIBBEREEN
%028 / pop 2300
Skibbereen (Sciobairn) is a typical market

town: unvarnished, down-to-earth and warmhearted, with a steady influx of tourists stopping on their way to western Cork. Theres no
real reason to linger other than to pick up info
from the tourist office, visit the heritage centre
and stay at Bridge House an event in itself.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
St; dinner 19-29; h6.30-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Sat)
lonelyplanet.com
228 W E S T E R N C O R K S k i b b e re e n
History
Skibbereen was one of the most badly affected towns in Ireland during the Famine.
Huge numbers of the local population emigrated or died of starvation or disease. The
accounts are not exaggerated they cannot
be exaggerated nothing more frightful can
be conceived. So wrote Lord Dufferin and
GF Boyle, who journeyed from Oxford to
Skibbereen in February 1847 to see if reports
of the Famine were true. Their eyewitness
account makes horrific reading; Dufferin
was so appalled by what he saw that he contributed 1000 (about 100,000 in todays
money) to the relief effort.
harrowing perspective. Theres also a smaller

exhibition about nearby Lough Hyne, the
first marine nature reserve in Ireland, and a
genealogical centre.
The Abbeystrewery Cemetery is a 1km walk
east of the centre, on the N71 to Schull, and
holds the mass graves of 8000 to 10,000 local
people who died during the Famine.
Tours
Guided historical walks (%40900, 087-930 5735;
adult/child 4.50/2), lasting 1 hours, leave from
the Heritage Centre at 6.30pm on Tuesday
and Saturday April to September. Booking
is advised.
Orientation
Sleeping
The main landmark in town is a statue in

the central square, dedicated to heroes of
Irish rebellions against the British. From
here, three roads branch off: Market St heads
south to Lough Hyne and Baltimore; Main
St, the principal shopping street, becomes
Bridge St before heading west over the river
to Ballydehob and Bantry; and North St
heads towards the main Cork road.
Russagh Mill Hostel & Adventure Centre (%22451;
Information
The tourist office (%21766; skibbereen@skibbereen
.corkkerrytourism.ie; North St; h9am-7pm Jul-Aug, 9am6pm Mon-Sat Jun & Sep, 9.15am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri
Oct-May) has an excellent pamphlet, the Skib-
bereen Trail (2), which takes you on a historical walking tour of the town; its also
available from newsagencies and the Heritage
Centre. Staff here can book accommodation
in Baltimore, and on Sherkin and Clear Islands, advise on local walks, and provide
ferry timetables to the islands. You can also
find information at www.skibbereen.ie.
Theres an Allied Irish Bank with an ATM
on Bridge St. For internet access head to the
Flexible Learning IT Centre (%40297; North St; per min
0.09; h10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri), on the top
floor of the West Cork Arts Centre.
Sights
Constructed on the site of the towns old gasworks, the Heritage Centre (%40900; www.skibb
heritage.com; Old Gasworks Bldg, Upper Bridge St; adult/child
6/3; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat midMarMay & mid-SepOct, last admission 5.15pm) houses
a haunting exhibition about the Famine, with

actors reading heart-breaking contemporary
accounts. A visit here puts Irish history into
www.russaghmillhostel.com; Castletownshend Rd; camp

sites 5, dm/d/f 15/40/60) This friendly, frenetic
Kalbos Bistro (%21515; 48 North St; snacks 3-11,

dinner 17-28; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat yearround, plus 5.30-9.30pm Sun Jul-Aug) This bustling
Bus ireann (% 021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie)

runs buses to Cork nine times daily Monday to Saturday, and five on Sunday (13,
1 hours); and to Schull eight times daily
Monday to Saturday and six times Sunday
(5, 30 minutes) from outside the Eldon
Hotel on Main St.
are warmed by the Gulf Stream and a number

of shipwrecks lie nearby. Aquaventures Dive
Centre (%20511; www.aquaventures.ie; Stonehouse B&B,
Lifeboat Rd) charges 60 for a full days diving,
and also offers diving and accommodation
packages in the attached B&B; contact the
centre for prices.
Baltimore Sailing School (%20141; www.baltimore
sailingschool.com) provides courses (five days for
330) from May to September for beginners
and advanced sailors.
For a shorter taste of the sea, contact Gannets Way (x20598; www.gannetsway.com), which
offers a days sailing on a wooden schooner
from 85.
Information about other diving, sailing and
angling operators is posted by the harbour.
A white-painted landmark beacon (aka
Lots Wife) stands on the western headland
of the peninsula and makes for a pleasant walk,
especially at sunset.
Ten kilometres from Baltimore, on the
R585 towards Skibbereen, theres good walking around Lough Hyne and the Knockamagh
Wood Nature Reserve. Well-marked trails
lead round the lake and up a steep hill through
the forest. Youre rewarded with stunning
views at the top.
BALTIMORE
Festivals & Events
place, with fresh flowers on the tables, serves

delicious soup, warm salads, wraps and burgers at lunchtime. When the candles come out,
so does the varied evening menu, which offers
some particularly delish veggie options, such
as sun-dried tomato and mozzarella risotto,
alongside meat and fish dishes.
Yassous (x 21157; www.yassouskibbereen.com;
Bridge St; lunch 4-10, dinner 10-23; hfood served noon9.30pm) The beamed dining room, slate floor
and deep-red trimmings of this Mediterranean restaurant and wine bar make it a top
place to settle into. The cuisine is Greek, with
lighter dishes such as spanakopita and salads
for lunch, and big portions of moussaka, meze
and meatballs for dinner.
place, 1.5km southeast of town on the R596,

occupies an atmospheric old corn mill that
has preserved machinery. It caters mainly for
school groups, but everyone is welcome. For
20 to 30 you can sample some activities,
including a days kayaking on Loch Hyne or
climbing instruction on the centres climbing wall, taught by experienced practitioners
(activities only available to guests staying at
the hostel).
oBridge House (%21273; Bridge St; s/d
40/70) Youve never stayed anywhere like
this before. Mona Best has turned her entire
house into a work of art, filling the rooms
with fabulous Victorian tableaux and period
memorabilia. The whole place bursts at the
seams with cherished clutter, crazed carvings,
dressed-up dummies and stuff too weird to
mention. Theres a hearty nod to modernity in
the bathroom, which contains a spa bath.
Eldon Hotel (Bridge St), scene of Michael Collins last meal before being ambushed and
killed at Beal-na-Blth (p224), was under
new management and had yet to reopen at
the time of writing. Check the tourist office
for details.
Eating
Theres an information board at the harbour,

or check out www.baltimore.ie. The nearest
ATM is in Skibbereen. Theres internet access
(3.50 per hour) at Caseys hotel.
Theres a county market (h12.30-2.30pm) every

Friday and a farmers market (h10am-1.30pm)
every Saturday for all your picnicking needs.
If youre in town in September, dont miss
the Taste of West Cork Food Festival (www.skib
bereen.ie), with a lively market and events at
local restaurants.
W E S T E R N C O R K B a l t i m o re 229
%028 / pop 400
Picturesque Baltimore has its sailing hat

wedged at a jaunty angle, and a merry whistle on its lips. Its pretty harbour, dominated
by the remains of the Dun na Sead (Fort of
the Jewels), is the only sight, but its divine
coastal setting means theres nowhere better
on a sunny day. Watching the boats with a
pint of stout in your hand is a fantastically
lazy way to spend your time.
Besides idlers, Baltimore attracts sailing
folk, anglers, divers and visitors to Sherkin and Clear Islands, meaning that the
population swells enormously during the
summer months.
Information
Activities
Theres some excellent diving to be had on the
reefs around Fastnet Rock, where the waters
Fiddle Fair (www.fiddlefair.com) In May, with sessions

from international and local musicians.
Seafood Festival (www.baltimore.ie) Over the last full

weekend of May, jazz bands perform and pubs bring out
the mussels and prawns.
Sleeping
Top of the Hill Hostel (x20094; www.topofthehillhostel
.ie; dm/d 15/44) Everything, from the exterior to
the duvets, is white at this pristine new hostel
at the, erm, top of the hill. A good nights rest
is assured in sturdy steel bunks, with your
possessions safely stowed in individual lockers. The (white) communal areas consist of a
lounge, dining room and kitchen and theres
a lovely garden to the side.
Rolfs Holidays (%20289; www.rolfsholidays.eu; Baltimore Hill; s 50-60, d 80-100;p) Upmarket Rolfs,
in an old farmhouse on the outskirts of town,
does the lot: there are excellent-value, smartly
decorated private rooms, self-catering cottages (from 500 per week), helpful staff and
a charming restaurant, Caf Art. The whole
place is set in peaceful gardens, and is gayfriendly.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
230 W E S T E R N C O R K C l e a r I s l a n d
oFastnet House (%20515; fastnethouse@

eircom.net; Main St; s/d 50/90) This early-19th-
century house, up from the main harbour, is

another super option. Stone steps lead up to
uncluttered rooms with big windows. Theres
an easy-going ambience, and owners Sandra
and Ronnie look after their guests.
Caseys of Baltimore (%20197; www.caseysof
baltimore.com; Skibbereen Rd; s/d 110/182; pi) Ten
of the bedrooms here have estuary views so
gorgeous youll be caught looking for angels.
If you can prise yourself away from the windowsill, youll find chipper rooms with huge
beds. Service is ever so friendly, and there are
reasonable discounts offered in the off-season.
Eating here is a delight as well (see below).
Also recommended:
Baltimore Bay Guesthouse (x20600; www.youen
jacob.com; the Quay; s/d 80/120) Large sunny rooms, some
with sea view and balcony, in a cheerful B&B on the harbour.
Baltimore Townhouse (x20197; www.baltimore
townhouse.com; s/d 110/180; p) Immaculate B&B with
luxury trimmings such as king-size beds and LCD TVs.
Caseys of Baltimore (%20197; sandwiches 4-10, mains

14-30; h12.30-3pm & 6.30-9pm, bar meals all day) At
Caseys your food comes with fantastic views,
whether you call in for breakfast, sandwiches
or full-on dinner. Seafood includes mussels
fresh from the hotels own shellfish farm in
Roaringwater Bay and the hotel specialty: crab
claws in garlic butter.
Caf Art (%20289; Baltimore Hill; mains 17-26;
hlunch & dinner) The kind of place where you
want to kick off your shoes and pad about in
your socks, this place is at once well run and
informal. The staff are merry and the dining
rooms, brightened by candlelight and artwork,
inviting. Theres a light European touch to all
the food, be it pork fillet flambed in brandy or
hake in Pernod. If you like the wine from the
list, you can buy a bottle to take away.
Chez Youen (%20136; www.youenjacob.com; the
Quay; dinner from 30; h 6-10pm, closed Nov & Feb)
Terrific seafood is the rule in this Bretoninspired restaurant where the luscious shellfish platter (50), containing lobster, prawns,
brown crab, velvet crab, shrimps and oysters, offers the chance to sample shellfish at
its best.
Customs House Restaurant (%20200; www.the
customshouse.com; Main St; set menu 35-45; h7-10pm
Thu-Sun May-Jun & Sep, daily Jul-Aug) Adding to the
areas reputation for gourmet food, Customs
Houses modest frontage belies the contemporary interior. The catch of the day and locally sourced, seasonal produce determine
the make-up of the good-value set menus.
Subtle Mediterranean influences pervade
the dishes, such as top-tasting scallops with
chorizo and mushroom risotto with truffle
sauce. Reservations are essential; opening
hours vary year-round so phone ahead to
check.
Drinking
Bushes Bar (x20125; www.bushesbar.com; the Quay)
The perfect place for sea dogs to chew the
fat after a day on the waves, Bushes Bar
drips with seafaring paraphernalia. The
benches outside are the best spots in town
for a sundowner.

There are four daily buses weekdays and
three times over the weekend between
Skibbereen and Baltimore (3, 20 minutes).
See opposite for the SchullClear Island
Baltimore ferry service.
W E S T E R N C O R K G o u g a n e B a r r a F o re s t Pa r k 231
islands history and culture, and fine views

north across the water to Mizen Head.
The ruins of 14th-century Dunamore Castle,
the stronghold of the ODriscoll clan, can be
seen perched on a rock on the northwestern side of the island (follow the track from
the harbour).
For everything you need to know about

goat husbandry, contact Ed Harper at Chlire
Goats (%39126; [email protected]), based on a farm west
of the church. He makes ice cream and cottage
cheese, available for tastings, and runs dayand week-long courses on goat-keeping.
Festivals
Accommodation on the island is satisfyingly

unfancy. Book ahead, especially between
May and September.
Theres a camp site (%39119; per person 7;
h Jun-Sep) and An iges Cape Clear Island
Hostel (%41968; www.mamut.com/anoigecapeclear; Old
The Cape Clear Island International Storytelling

Festival (%39157; http://indigo.ie/~stories; weekend
ticket 65) brings hundreds of people to Clear
Island for storytelling, workshops and walks,
as the nights begin to shorten from late-August to early-September. Check exact dates
on the Web and book well ahead for tickets
and accommodation.
Activities
BIRD-WATCHING
With its lonely inlets, pebbly beaches, gorse

and heather-covered cliffs, Clear Island
(Oilen Chlire; Cape Clear Island) is an
escapists heaven. Youll need plenty of time
to suck the full enjoyment from this rugged
Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area, the most
southerly inhabited island in the country.
Its a place for quiet walks, hunting down
standing stones and bird-watching.
Facilities are few, but there are a couple of
B&Bs, one shop and three pubs.
Cape Clear is one of the top bird-watching

spots in Ireland, particularly known for sea
birds, including Manx shearwater, gannet,
fulmar and kittiwake. Guillemot breed on
the island, but other birds head to and fro
on hunting trips from the rocky outposts of
the western peninsulas. Tens of thousands of
birds can pass hourly, especially in the early
morning and at dusk. The best time of year
for twitching here is October.
The white-fronted bird observatory is by the
harbour (turn right at the end of the pier
and its 100m along). Its worth calling in to
ask about any planned bird-watching trips.
For bird-watching boat trips, phone MVS
Gaisceann (%39182).
BirdWatch Ireland (www.birdwatchireland.ie) runs
bird-watching field courses to Cape Clear.
Details are on the website.
WALKING
The island is 5km long and just over 1.5km

wide at its broadest point. It narrows in the
middle where an isthmus divides the northern and southern harbours. Theres a tourist
information post (%39100; h11am-1pm & 3-6pm
May-Aug) beyond the pier, next to the coffee
shop. There are various leaflets available.
Youll find toilets at the harbour.
The island has its own website: visit www
.oilean-chleire.ie.
There are marked trails all over the island, and

B&Bs and the tourist information post can
advise on other walks. For guided walks covering historical, archaeological or ecological
aspects of the island, phone %39157 (during
summer); for walks focused on literature and
culture, phone %39190.
CLEAR ISLAND
%028 / pop 150
Sights
The small heritage centre (%39119; admission
2.50; h2.30-5pm Jun-Aug) has exhibits on the
Courses
Comharchumann Chlire Teo (%39119; ccteo@iol
.ie) runs Irish-language courses for 12- to
18-year-olds (730 for three weeks). Ionad
Foghlama Chlire (%39190; www.cleire.com) runs
programmes for adults.
Sleeping & Eating
Coastguard Station, South Harbour; dm first night 18, then

16; i), which is in a large white building at
the south harbour.

Ask for directions to these two friendly
B&Bs in typical island houses: Ard Na Gaoithe
(% 39160; [email protected]; the Glen; s/d
35/70) and Cluain Mara (%39153, 39172; www.cape
clearisland.com; North Harbour; per person 28-35), which
also has self-catering cottages.

Ciarn Danny Mikes (% 39172; www.capeclear
island.ie; meals 7-12) does bar meals and in summer theres a chip van at the north harbour.

From Baltimore, the ferry Naomh Ciarn II
(%39153; www.capeclearferry.com) takes 45 minutes to cover the 11km journey to Clear Island and its a stunning trip on a clear day.
There are four boats daily between mid-July
and mid-August, with the earliest leaving at
11am and the latest returning at 7pm, and
at least two per day the rest of the year (departures morning and late-afternoon only).
Return fares are 12/6 per adult/child, and
bicycles travel free.
GOUGANE BARRA FOREST PARK
Gougane Barra (www.gouganebarra.com) is a truly

magical part of inland County Cork. Its almost Alpine in feel, with spectacular vistas
of craggy mountain, silver stream and pine
forest sweeping down to a mountain lake,
the source of the River Lee. St Finbarre, the
founder of Cork, established a monastery
here in the 6th century. He had a hermitage
on the island in Gougane Barra Lake (Lough
an Ghugain), which is now approached by
a short causeway. The small chapel on the
island has fine stained-glass representations
of obscur Celtic saints. A road runs through
the park in a loop but youre better off
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
Eating
lonelyplanet.com
232 M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A S c h u l l
slowing down and walking the well-marked

network of paths and nature trails through
the forest.
The area cries out for a hostel but the
only place to air your hiking boots is the
pricy Gougane Barra Hotel (x026 47069; www
.gouganebarrahotel.com; s/d 75/140). Theres an onsite restaurant (serving a two-course dinner
for 29), a caf and a pub next door, and the
hotel runs a summer theatre festival.
MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA

From Skibbereen the road rolls west through
Ballydehob, the gateway to the Mizen, and
then on to the pretty village of Schull. Travelling on into the undulating countryside takes
you through ever-smaller settlements, to the
village of Goleen.
Even here the Mizen isnt done. Increasingly narrow roads head further west to spectacular Mizen Head itself and to the hidden
delights of Barleycove Beach and Crookhaven.
Without a decent map you may well reach the
same crossroads several times.
Heading back from Goleen, you can bear
north to join the scenic coast road that follows
the edge of Dunmanus Bay for most of the
way to Durrus. At Durrus, one road heads for
Bantry while the other turns west to Sheeps

Head Peninsula.
SCHULL
%028 / pop 700
Schull (pronounced skul) is a small fishing

village where a few vessels still keep the trade
alive. The harbour has the satisfying clutter
of a working port, and water sports play their
part in making Schull a busy tourist attraction.
Its particularly crowded during Calves Week,
a sailing regatta usually held after the August
bank holiday. Out of season the village is even
more attractive in some ways, with a strong
local community.

Most shops and B&Bs line the long Main St.
Theres no tourist office, but a very useful booklet, Schull: A Visitors Guide, can be
obtained from hotels and some shops, and
theres a website (www.schull.ie).
The Allied Irish Bank on Main St has an
ATM and bureau de change.
@ Your Service (x28600; Main St; per 30/60min 3/6)
Internet access and tourist info.
Chapter One (%27606; www.chapterone.ie; Main St;
hclosed Wed) A cooperatively run bookshop with a good
general collection.
Sights
The Republics only planetarium, the Schull
Planetarium (%28552; www.schullcommunitycollege
.com; Colla Rd; h3.30-5pm Sun May, 3-5pm Tue & 7.30-9pm
Sat Jun, 7-9pm Mon & Sat Jul-Aug, 3.30-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat
& 7.30-9pm Mon & Thu), in the grounds of Schull
Community College, has an 8m dome and

a video and slide show. It was founded by
a German visitor who was charmed by the
town. A 45-minute star show (adult/child 5/3.50)
starts at 4pm or 8pm during opening hours.
The planetarium is at the Goleen end of
the village on the Colla road. You can also
reach it by walking along the Foreshore Path
from the pier.
Activities
There are a number of walks in the area including a 13km return trip up Mt Gabriel.
The mountain was once mined for copper,
and there are Bronze Age remains and 19thcentury mine shafts and chimneys. For a gentler stroll try the short 2km Foreshore Path
from the pier out to Roaringwater Bay and a
view of the nearby islands. These and other
walking routes are outlined in the publication

Schull: A Visitors Guide.
Schull Watersport Centre (%/fax 28554; the Pier;
h9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sat) hires out
sailing dinghies (50 per half-day) and snorkelling gear (10 per day), and can arrange
sea-kayaking sessions (three-hour session
25) and sailing lessons (95 for 2 hours).
Divecology (%28943; www.divecology.com; Cooradarrigan) runs courses and dives (25) to wreck
and reef sites.
For fishing, contact Schull Angling Centre
(%087-251 7452; [email protected]) or Blue Thunder
Charters (x086-386 2876; www.schull-seaangling.com).
Horse- and pony-trekking and trap rides
are available at the Ballycumisk Riding School
(%37246, 087-961 6969; Ballycumisk) outside Schull
on the way to Ballydehob, for 25 per hour.
Sleeping
Glencairn (%28007; [email protected]; Ardmanagh Dr; s/d 40/70; p) Excellent value is the
norm at this friendly place, in a peaceful culde-sac 100m from Main St. There are some
great little touches: Room 4, the only room
without a bathroom, has dressing gowns to
preserve your dignity while nipping to the
detached yet private bathroom. Better still,
there are biscuit barrels in all the rooms.
Rookery Cottage B&B (x28660; Air Hill; r 70; p)
In a quiet spot behind the village, there are
bags of comfort at this spruce family B&B.
The floorboards that run throughout are
so highly polished you can see your face
in them, and each of the three rooms (two
with bathroom) are lovingly decorated with
antiques and quilts.
Grove House (%28067; www.grovehouseschull.com;
Colla Rd; s 75-85, d 100-120; p) This beautifully
restored ivy-covered mansion is the fanciest
place to stay in Schull. The house is exquisitely
decorated in an easy-going antiques-andhomemade-rugs style. It also has a restaurant
(see right).
At the time of writing, the Harbour View Hotel
(%28101; Main St), formerly the East End Hotel,
was under construction. Phone for further
information and prices.
Eating
Newmans West (%27776; www.tjnewmans.com; Main
St; dishes 6-9; h9am-11pm) This natty wine bar
and art gallery serves nibbles such as soup
and salads and enormous chunky sandwiches
filled with local cheese and salami. The daily
M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A S c h u l l 233
Western Seaboard specials might include

Bantry Bay mussels, fish pie and chowder.
Hacketts (Main St; hlunch noon-3pm daily, dinner
Wed-Thu Jul-Aug, Fri-Sat year-round; bar meals 3-7, dinner
15-20) Simplicity is the charm at Hacketts.
Black and white photos and tin signs adorn

the pubs crooked walls and theres a mishmash of old kitchen tables and benches on the
worn stone floor. Weekends brings un peu de
France to town with cassoulet and stews.
Jagoes Caf & Restaurant (x28028; Main St; lunch
3-11.50, dinner 16-22; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sat yearround & dinner Jul-Aug) A deli selling artisan pro-
duce fronts this delightfully unfussy restaurant

strewn with battered wooden furniture. Lunch
sees the usual rounds of soup, sandwiches and
salads. Things get more interesting at dinner
with ingredients such as chicken with saffron,
and scallops in cider, artfully combined.
Waterside Inn (%28203; Main St; mains 17-28) The
dark interior is a bit of a throwback to the
70s, but the locals stand by the food here all
the way. The menu is seafood-oriented, with
creative dishes such as monkfish with Gubbeen bacon and chives, but there are good
choices for fans of locally reared meat too.
Even if youre not staying at Grove House
(see left), youre welcome to eat at its restaurant (mains 15-23; hWed-Mon Jul-Aug & Thu-Sat
Sep-Jun). You get to sample local food, such as
Gubbeen bacon and Schull eggs for breakfast,
and there are French and Swedish dishes for
dinner.
SELF CATERING
Picnickers are spoilt for choice: besides the

supermarkets on Main St, try the West Cork
Gourmet Store (%27613; Main St) for its fantastic
deli and selection of wines, and Gwens Chocolates (x27853; Main St) for cocoa and cakes.
Theres also a Sunday farmers market (%27824;
Pier Rd car park; h10am-2pm Easter-Christmas).

There are two buses daily from Cork to
Schull (15, 2 hours), via Clonakilty and
Skibbereen.
The Clear Island ferry (x28278; www.capeclear
ferries.com; h11.30am Jun, 10.30am, 2.30pm & 4.30pm
Jul-Aug, 2.30pm Sep; adult/child return 13/5) leaves
from the pier.
Getting Around
Parking in Schull is difficult in summer. There
are three car parks, opposite the Harbour
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
It aint easy on public transport. Theres a

Monday to Saturday bus service (3.15pm,
two hours) from Cork to Ballingeary 5km
away; if youre staying at the Gougane Barra
hotel the staff can pick you up from there.
Theres also a Saturday-only 8am Macroom
to Ballingeary bus, arriving in time to connect with the 9am Gougane Barra bus. The
bus departs from Gougane Barra at 4.40pm
Saturday, connecting with the 5pm bus
to Macroom.
The Macroom tourist office (x026 43280;
h summer only) can help with accommodation in town if needed. Alternatively,
take a taxi (x026 41152) from Macroom for
around 30, or organise a tour from Bantry
(see p237).
The park is signposted on the R584 after
Ballingeary. Returning to the main road afterwards and continuing west, youll travel over
the Pass of Keimaneigh and emerge on the
N71 at Ballylickey, midway between the Beara
Peninsula and the Sheeps Head Peninsula.
lonelyplanet.com
234 M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A W e s t o f S c h u l l t o M i z e n H e a d
View Hotel, behind the Allied Irish Bank,

and at Pier Rd.
For bus and taxi services, try Betty Johnsons
Bus Hire (%28410, 086-265 6078).
WEST OF SCHULL TO MIZEN HEAD

%028
If youre driving or cycling, take the undulating coastal route from Schull to Goleen.
On a clear day there are great views out to
Clear Island and the Fastnet lighthouse. The
landscape becomes wilder around the hamlet
of Toormore. From Goleen, roads run out to
thrilling Mizen Head and to the picturesque
harbour village of Crookhaven.
Goleen
Tourism in the Goleen area is handled well
by the local community, with the Mizen Head
Signal Station (opposite) being a token of their
commitment and imagination.
SLEEPING & EATING
location, warmth and quality, this lovely

house has five antique-filled, flower-themed
bedrooms. Hospitable hostess Violet has the
most infectious laugh ever, and her breakfast
choice is gourmet standard, with eggs from
happy hens in the garden. To get there, head
along the road that turns off the R592 for
Durrus about 1km northeast of Goleen.
Herons Cove (% 35225; www.heronscove.com;
Goleen; s/d 50/80; p) A delightful location, on
the shores of the tidal inlet of Goleen Harbour, makes this fine restaurant and B&B a
top choice. Rooms have individual charm
and several have balconies overlooking the
inlet and the soothing turn of the tide. The
homely restaurant has an excellent menu of
organic and local food. Its open from 7pm
to 9.30pm May to September (and yearround for guests staying at the Herons
Cove). Mains are between 18 and 25.
Rock Cottage (x35538; www.rockcottage.ie; Barnatonicane, Schull; s/d 95/130; p) Rock Cottage is
the kind of place where you end up staying
longer than youd intended. The Georgian
hunting lodge has three wood-floored guest
rooms, which happily mix antique furniture
and modern textiles. Rock Cottage is also a
working farm and many of the ingredients
on the evening set menu (48) come from
the surrounding fields. To find it, continue

1km up the road from Fortview House and
go through the gate on your left.
There are two buses to Goleen from Skibbereen (8, 70 minutes) via Schull, leaving
Skibbereen at 4.05pm and 7.45pm Monday to Saturday, and 11.30am and 1.05pm
Sunday. In the other direction, buses leave
Goleen at 7.45am and 5.30pm Monday to
Saturday (Sunday at 1.35pm and 5.30pm).
Buses travel no further down the peninsula
than Goleen.
Crookhaven
Onwards from Goleen, the westerly outpost
of Crookhaven feels so remote you imagine its more easily reached by boat than
by road. And so it is for some people in
summer theres a big yachting presence and
Crookhaven bustles with life. Off season you
can stop the world and get off.
In its heyday Crookhavens natural harbour was an important anchorage. Mail
from America was collected here, and sailing
ships and fishing vessels found ready shelter.
On the opposite shore the gaunt remains of
quarry buildings, closed in 1939, lie embedded in the hillside, and are the source
of many tall tales by locals in response to
curious questions from visitors.
SLEEPING & EATING
Galley Cove House (%35137; www.galleycovehouse.

com; s 45-55, d 75-85; p) A cheerful welcome
complements the secluded location of this
modern home, 2km from Crookhaven and
with terrific views across the ocean. Its handy
for Barley Cove beach, and the pine-floored
rooms are clean, airy and filled with light.
OSullivans Bar (%35319; osullivans@crookhaven
.ie; snacks 3-11; hnoon-8pm) and Crookhaven Inn
(%35309; mains 4-14; h12.30-8pm Apr-Oct) are highspirited pubs on the waterfront. Theres live
music in summer, when the bars fill with
yachtspeople from the nearby sailing club.
Theres soup, chowder, crab sarnies and
quiches on the menu year-round.
Brow Head
This is the most southerly point on the Irish
mainland and well worth the walk. As you
leave Crookhaven, youll notice a turn-off to
the left marked Brow Head. If travelling by
lonelyplanet.com
M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A N o r t h s i d e o f t h e Pe n i n s u l a 235
car, park at the bottom of the hill the track is

very narrow and theres nowhere to pull over
should you meet a tractor coming the other
way. After 1km the road ends. Continue on a
path to Brow Head where youll see an observation tower, from which Guglielmo Marconi
transmitted his first message (to Cornwall)
and received a reply.
Barleycove
Even though this is western Corks finest
beach, it never seems to get overcrowded.
Its a great place for youngsters, with gorgeous stretches of golden sand, a safe bathing area where a stream flows down to the
sea, lifeguards in July and August, and a
Blue Flag award marking the cleanliness
of the water. Access is via a boardwalk and
pontoon, which protect the surrounding
wetlands from the impact of visitors feet.
Theres a car park at the edge of the beach,
on the south side of the causeway on the
road to Crookhaven.
If you can forgive the insensitivity of such
a modern and growing development in this
heavenly spot, Barleycove Beach Hotel (%35234;
www.barleycovebeachhotel.com; Barleycove; s/d 80/160,
2-bed self-catering per week 780; p ) is a mere
200m away from the sand. The rooms are

simply done out, with beach views, and
theres a bar/restaurant with outdoor seating. Bring ear plugs the bedroom walls
are thin.
Near the beach on the other side of the
bay, Barleycove Holiday Park (x35302; Barley Cove;
camp site 20; hmid-Aprmid-Sep) is a well-run
camping ground with bike rental, shop and
childrens club.
Mizen Head Signal Station

For the full Mizen experience, dont miss the
Mizen Head Signal Station (%35225, 35115; www
.mizenhead.net; Mizen Head; adult/child 6-12 years 6/3.50;
h10.30am-5pm mid-MarMay & Oct, 10am-6pm Jun-Sep,
11am-4pm Sat & Sun Novmid-Mar). Apart from the
thrill of standing on Irelands most southwesterly point, the walk down to the head and the
displays inside the signal station make for a
unique attraction.
At the top of the cliffs is Fastnet Hall with
plenty of information about local ecology,
geology and history. From here, take the spectacular arched bridge that spans a vast gulf in
the cliffs. Far below, seals roll in the dark water
when the sea is calm. Beyond the bridge, and
at the far point of the outer rock island, is the

signal station, containing the keepers quarters,
engine room and radio room of the Mizen
Head Fog Signal Station, completed in 1909
and de-staffed and automated in 1993. You
can see how the keepers lived and how the
station worked, but the real rush (even among
crowds on a busy day) is the sense of so much
Atlantic beneath vast skies.
Back at the top, the Mizen Caf is a good
place for a bite after all the drama.
NORTHSIDE OF THE PENINSULA

Although the landscape is less dramatic on this
side of the peninsula, its well worth driving
along the coast road here for the great views
out to Sheeps Head Peninsula and beyond to
the magnificent Beara Peninsula.
Durrus
%027 / pop 900
Durrus is a lively little village at the head

of Dunmanus Bay and a popular access
point for both the Mizen Head and Sheeps
Head peninsulas.
Gardeners will be impressed by Kilravock
Garden (%61111; Ahakista Rd; adult/child 5/3; h10am6.30pm Mon-Sat May-Sep), which has been transformed over 17 years from a field to a feast of
exotic plants by one green-fingered couple.
Dunbeacon Campsite (%61246; camp sites 14;
hEastermid-Oct), about 5.5km southwest of
Durrus on the R591, has tree-sheltered sites in
a cracking location overlooking the bay.
Blairs Cove House (%61127; www.blairscove.ie;
s/d 140/220, apt per week from 720; hMar-Jan) is
a Georgian country house set in five acres
of land and centred around an exquisite
courtyard. Rooms and self-catering apartments display immense elegance and style.
The restaurant (open for dinner Tueday and
Saturday and for lunch on Sunday, March
to October) in a chandeliered hall, offers a
superb set dinner (55) with local produce
given an international treatment. Booking
is advised.
Good Things Caf (%61426; www.thegoodthingscafe.
com; Ahakista Rd; mains 13-28; h12.30-3pm & 7-9pm
Thu-Mon mid-JunDec) is a joyous scoffing place
on Dunmanus Bay. It produces some great

contemporary dishes from organic, locally
sourced ingredients and runs popular cookery courses year-round, covering everything
from the practical pig to two-day miracle
programmes for beginners.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
o Fortview House (% 35324; www.fortview

house.ie; Gurtyowen, Toormore; s 45-62, d 90-100;
hMar-Nov; p) Out on its own, in terms of
lonelyplanet.com
236 M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A B a n t r y
lonelyplanet.com
Cork. His grand home is now the towns

main attraction.
DURRUS CHEESE
If we were cows, we would be happy grazing in the rugged green fields of West
Cork. Irish bovines must agree, because
the area is a centre of excellence for artisan dairy production. If you want to see
cheese-making in action, call in at Durrus Cheese (x027-61100; www.durruscheese
.com). Founder Jeffa Gill is happy to talk
visitors through the process and there are
cheeses on sale. Be sure to call ahead if
you want to drop in. Follow the Ahakista
road out of Durrus for 500m; turn right at
the church and keep going for 3km until
you see the dairys sign.
Sights
Tours
With its melancholic air of faded gentility, 18th-century Bantry House (%50047; www
George Plant Minibus Tours (%50654, 087-239 8123;

[email protected]) operates various tours for 20
to 30 from June to September. Trips include Mizen Head, the Beara Peninsula and
Gougane Barra Forest Park (p231). They
only run if there are sufficient numbers.
The two main roads into Bantry converge

on Wolfe Tone Sq, where the pedestrianised
central concourse boasts a statue of Wolfe
Tone (see p36).
The helpful tourist office (% 50229; Wolfe
Tone Sq; h9.15am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) is based
in the old courthouse. Theres a post office on Blackrock Rd, an Allied Irish Bank
with ATM on Wolfe Tone Sq, and the
Bantry Laundrette (% 55858; h 9.30am-6pm
Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat) in a small courtyard off
Barrack St.
Internet access is available at Fast.Net
%027 / pop 3300
Vast Bantry Bay, framed by the craggy Caha

Mountains, has an epic quality that you cant
help but marvel at. The towns past is one of
mixed fortunes: poverty and mass emigration were followed by unexpected prosperity
when Gulf Oil built an oil terminal on Whiddy
Island. A second source of riches also comes
from the bay: youll see Bantry oysters and
mussels on menus throughout County Cork.
The town narrowly missed a place in history during the late 18th century, when storms
prevented a French fleet landing to join the
United Irishmens rebellion. A local Englishman, Richard White, was rewarded with a
peerage for alerting the British military in
.bantryhouse.com; Bantry Bay; admission 10, gardens &

French Armada Centre only 5, children free; h10am-6pm
mid-MarOct) makes for an intriguing visit.
The house has belonged to the White family since 1729 and every room brims with
treasures brought back from every generations travels since then. The entrance is
paved with mosaics from Pompeii, French
and Flemish tapestries adorn the walls, and
Japanese chests sit next to Russian shrines.
Upstairs, worn bedrooms look out wanly
over an astounding view of the bay the
Festivals
West Cork Chamber Music Festival (www.westcork
music.ie) Held at Bantry House for a week in June/July
when the house closes to the public. The garden, craft
shop and tearoom remain open.
Sleeping
BUDGET
200 m
0.1 mile
16
To W
Islan hiddy
d
To
Mill B&B (300m);
Sea View House
Hotel
&
Ballylickey
N71
arr House (500m); Eagle
dB
10
Ol
Point Camping (6km);
15
5
Ma
8
ri n o
Glengarriff (23km);
4
S
t
N71
Kenmare (45km);
12
9 1
14
Killarney (75km)
13
11
2
t
S
Ne
in
Ma
w
Bl a
6
ckr
S
t
ock
To Post
Rd
Brid
Office (100m)
3
kR
d
iew
our V
Harb
G le
ng
ari
ff
Wolfe
Tone Sq
N71
ac
Bantry
Bay
Bar
EATING
Brick Oven..........................................8
O'Connor's Seafood Restaurant.........9
Snug Bar...........................................10
Stuffed Olive....................................11
B1
C1
C1
C1
St
ge
St
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Old Courthouse...............................(see 4)
Statue of Wolfe Tone.........................5 C1
SLEEPING
Atlanta House.................................... 6 D2
Independent Hostel.............................7 B1
iam
Will
C1
D1
D2
C1
kS
rac
To Bantry House (300m);

Durrus (8km); Schull (22km);
Goleen (28km); Skibbereen (35km);
Dunmanway (40km); Cork (90km)
INFORMATION
Allied Irish Bank..................................1
Bantry Laundrette...............................2
Fast.Net Business Services...................3
Tourist Office.....................................4
Rd
0
0
BANTRY
ENTERTAINMENT
Cinemax 3........................................12 B1
Crowley's.........................................13 C1
TRANSPORT
Bantry Rural Transport......................14 D1
Buses................................................15 C1
Nigel's Bicycle Shop..........................16 D1
Independent Hostel (x51140; Harbour View; dm 12.50)

The cheapest accommodation in town, this
basic hostel on the harbour has two small,
cramped dorms. Youll find the owner at
Barrys B&B next door.
Eagle Point Camping (%50630; www.eaglepoint
camping.com; Glengarriff Rd, Ballylickey; camp sites 23;
M I Z E N H E A D P E N I N S U L A B a n t r y 237
hend Apr-end Sep) An enviable location at the
end of a promontory 6km north of Bantry

makes this a popular site. Most spots have
sea views, and theres direct access to the
pebbly beaches nearby.
MIDRANGE
Atlanta House (%50237; atlantaguesthouse@gmail

.net; Main St; s/d 40/60; i) You wont get a more
central stay than in this recently refurbished
town house, which has good-sized rooms and
firm beds piled high with pillows. Theres a
congenial welcome from the staff and a reassuring sense of comfort and calm.
Mill (%50278; Glengarriff Rd; www.the-mill.net; s/d
45/70; hEaster-Oct; p) One of the best B&Bs
in the west, this modern house on the immediate outskirts of town oozes individuality. The irrepressible landlady, Tosca, is
just part of it. The rooms are full of knickknacks, and the spacious breakfast and dining
room has a wonderful collection of Indonesian puppets and Toscas art to accompany
terrific breakfasts.
TOP END
Ballylickey House (x50071; www.ballylickeymanor

house.com; Ballylickey; d 120-130, ste 170; hMar-Nov;
p) In a beautiful manor house with mani-
cured lawns overlooking the bay, Ballylickey

has two types of accommodation grand
rooms in the house itself or sweet little cottages set round a swimming pool in
the gardens. All are spacious and comfortably furnished, with big squishy beds and
floral upholstery.
Sea View House Hotel (%50073; www.seaview
househotel.com; Ballylickey; s 85-95, d 150-170; p) Youll
find everything youd expect from a luxury
hotel here: country-house ambience, tastefully
decorated public rooms, expansive service and
extraordinarily snug bedrooms. The hotel is on
the N71, 5km northeast of Bantry.
DETOUR: SHIPLAKE MOUNTAIN HOSTEL

Far up a twisting track lies one of Corks most unusual hostels. Shiplake Mountain Hostel (x02345750; www.shiplakemountainhostel.com; Dunmanway; camp site 7, dm/s/d 13/18/32; p) consists of three
brightly coloured gypsy caravans, each with a double bed squeezed in, and two dorm rooms in
an old stone cottage. The owners take their environmental responsibility seriously the showers
use local spring water and you can have the hostels own duck eggs (30c) for breakfast. They
can pick you up from nearby Dunmanway, which has an ATM and grocery shops. Once here,
chase the ducks, go for walks, borrow a bike (free) or gather round the stove in the common
room for a good chinwag.
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
(%51624; Bridge St; 10/60 min 1/5; h9am-6pm MonFri, 10am-5pm Sat).
18th-century Whites had ringside seats to

the armada (see below). Experienced pianists are invited to tinkle the ivories of the
ancient piano in the library. Its possible to
stay the night in the wings (see p238).
The gardens of Bantry House are its great
glory. Lawns sweep down from the front of
the house towards the sea, and the formal
Italian garden has an enormous stairway to
the sky, offering spectacular views.
In the former stables youll find the 1796
French Armada Exhibition Centre, with its powerful
account of the doomed French invasion of
Ireland, led by Wolfe Tone. The fleet was
torn apart by storms; one frigate, La Surveillante, was scuttled by its own crew and
today lies 30m down in the bay.
Bantry House is 1km southwest of the town
centre on the N71.
BANTRY
238 S H E E P S H E A D P E N I N S U L A W a l k i n g & C y c l i n g
Bantry House (%50047; www.bantryhouse.com; Bantry Bay; s/d 140/240; hApr-Oct; p) Bantry Houses
guest rooms, decorated in a warming mixture
of antiques and contemporary furnishings,
are luxurious places to while away the hours.
Rooms 22 and 25 are double aspect, with
views of the garden and the bay. Enhance
the dream by playing croquet, lawn tennis or
billiards and lounging in the houses library
once the doors are shut to the public.
Eating
OConnors Seafood Restaurant (%50221; www.oconnor
seafood.com; Wolfe Tone Sq; lunch 5-13, dinner 18-30;
hlunch & dinner daily Mar-Oct, Tue-Sat Nov-Feb; w)
The tank full of lobsters and the wooden

sailing ships in the window give the game
away OConnors offers Bantry seafood at
its best. Mussels are the speciality here and
are prepared in a variety of ways try them
cooked in Murphys stout. Its all ultrafresh,
from the food to the soft neutral dcor. A
two-course set menu is available between
6pm and 7pm for 26.
Brick Oven (% 52500; the Quay; mains 9-25;
gills, this is a family favourite thanks to its
cunningly divided menu and chirpy atmosphere. Kids can pig out on pizza, while their
discerning parents feast on more adult fare
such as sun-dried tomato risotto.
Snug Bar (x50027; the Quay; mains 14-23) The
aptly named Snug is a cocoon of interesting
nooks and crannies, with enamel advertising
signs on the walls and one table wrapped
around a full-grown tree. Simple bar meals
(soups, lasagne and the like) are served at
lunch with more ambitious seafood and
steaks on the menu at night.
For a wholesome picnic, stock up on artisan produce, salads, sandwiches and wine
at the Stuffed Olive (x55883; New St).
Entertainment
Crowleys (%50029; Wolfe Tone Sq) is one of the
best bars for music, with traditional bands
on Wednesday nights.
Cinemax 3 (%55777; www.cinemaxbantry.com; the
Quay) shows blockbusters and a Tuesday arthouse programme on its three screens.

Bus ireann (%021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) has
12 buses daily Monday to Saturday (four on
Sunday) between Bantry and Cork (13.50,

two hours). In June and August, theres one
service daily to Killarney (13, 12 hours) via
Glengarriff and Kenmare.
The private Berehaven bus (%70007) links
Bantry to Castletownbere via Glengarriff. It
leaves from the fire station in Wolfe Tone
Sq at noon and 5.50pm on Monday, 3.45pm
on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday and
7.45pm Thursday (one way/return 8/15,
75 minutes).
Bantry Rural Transport (% 52727; www.rural
transport.ie; 5 Main St) runs a useful series of
circular routes to Dunmanway, Durrus,
Goleen, Schull, Skibbereen, and outlying
villages. Theres a set price of 4/6 one way/
return. Services run on set days only. Phone
for details.
Getting Around
Bicycles can be hired at Nigels Bicycle Shop
(%52657; Glengarriff Rd; per day/week 15/60).
SHEEPS HEAD
PENINSULA
The least visited of Corks three peninsulas,
Sheeps Head Peninsula has a rare charm of
its own. There are wonderful seascapes to
appreciate from the loop road running along
most of its length. A good link road with
terrific views, called the Goats Path Rd, runs
between Gortnakilly and Kilcrohane (on the
north and south coasts respectively), over
the western flank of Mt Seefin.
Ahakista (Atha an Chiste) consists of a couple
of pubs and a few houses stretched out along
the R591. An ancient stone circle is signposted
at the southern end of Ahakista; access is via a
short pathway. The peninsulas other village is
Kilcrohane, 6km to the southwest, beside a fine
beach. You can get pub food in both villages.
For more information about the area, take a
look at th website (www.sheepshead.ie).
WALKING & CYCLING

Walkers and cyclists will relish the chance to
stretch their legs and enjoy the windswept
moors, wild gorse, foxgloves and fuchsias in
beautiful solitude. On the Goats Path Rd, the
steep Bantry Kilcohane section requires firm
thighs; the AhakiesDurrus stretch is more
gentle. Bantrys tourist office (see p236) can
lonelyplanet.com
B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) O r i e n t a t i o n & I n f o r m a t i o n 239
WALK: MT SEEFIN
Make time for an exhilarating 1km stride to the summit of Mt Seefin (345m). Its not challenging but this is open country, where mist can easily descend, so go properly equipped. Theres a
path, but it fades out in places.
The ascent begins at the top of the Goats Path Rd, about 2km between Gortnakilly and Kilcrohan. On the roadside is an out-of-place imitation of Michelangelos Piet follow the track
that starts opposite the parking area on the south side of the Piet. Keep to the path along the
rocky spine of the hill until you reach a depression. Follow a path up a short gully to the right
of a small cliff and then continue, again on the rocky spine of the broad ridge, to a trigonometry
point on the summit. Retracing your steps can be challenging. From the trig point its best to
keep high along the broad ridge and not drift too far to the left.
book accommodation along the Sheeps Head

Way, has lots of info on the peninsula and
sells a map and guide (12.50).
The Sheeps Head Way is an 88km walking
route around the peninsula, on roads and
tracks where possible. Use Ordnance Survey maps 85 and 88 to navigate your way
around (see www.osi.ie to purchase maps).
There are no camp sites on Sheeps Head Peninsula; camping along the route is allowed
with permission from the landowner.
The 120km Sheeps Head Cycle Route runs
anticlockwise from Ballylickey (north of
Bantry), round the coastline of the Sheeps
Head Peninsula, back on to the mainland
and down to Ballydehob. There are opportunities to take shortcuts or alternative routes
(eg over the Goats Path Rd, or along the
coast from Ahakista to Durrus). The widely
available brochure, The Sheeps Head Cycle
Route, has full details.
the thrillingly wobbly cable car at the tip

of the peninsula, which takes you and the
sheep out to tiny Dursey Island, is a bonus.
Sitting insouciantly astraddle the Cork
Kerry border, Beara is less visited than the
Ring of Kerry to the north. You can escape
even further into the landscape by strapping
on your hiking boots. Theres exhilarating
hill walking requiring some skill and commitment, as well as proper clothing and
navigational experience.
The 196km Beara Way is a signposted walk
linking Glengarriff with Kenmare (in Kerry)
via Castletownbere, Bere Island, Dursey Island and the north side of the peninsula; for
more details, see p698. The 138km Beara Way
Cycle Route takes a similar direction, passing
on small lanes through all the villages on
Beara. You can find excellent maps and
guidebooks in local tourist offices.
A small part of the peninsula lies in Kerry

but is dealt with here for the convenience of
people travelling the Ring of Beara. Castletownbere in Cork or Kenmare in Kerry make
good bases for exploring the area.
In theory you could drive the 137km
around the coast in one day, but at the price of
omitting a great deal. In particular, you would
miss the spectacular Healy Pass, which cuts
across the peninsula from Cork to Kerry.
The following towns are described in
a route that assumes youre starting from
Glengarriff and working your way clockwise
to Kenmare.
Bantry Rural Transport (% 027-52727; www.rural

transport.ie; 5 Main St) buses run a circular route
on Tuesday and Thursday, leaving Bantry at 9.15am and going via the Goats
Path Rd to Kilcrohane and Durrus (one
way/return 4/6).
BEARA PENINSULA
(RING OF BEARA)
The Beara Peninsula (Mor Choaird Bheara)
is the stuff of glossy tourist brochures, a
sublime place of rock-studded mountains
and green valleys sliding at impossible angles
into the Atlantic. Its villages are as friendly
and picturesque as you could wish for, and
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
GLENGARRIFF
%027 / pop 1020
Hidden deep in the Bantry Bay area, Glengarriff (Gleann Garbh) is an attractive village
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
h noon-3pm & 5-9pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 6-10pm

Fri-Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Generally rammed to the
lonelyplanet.com
240 B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) G l e n g a r r i f f
with a happy holiday feel. Its weird microclimate stems from its sheltered position and
the shallow sea, which in turn encourages
exotic plant growth, best seen on Garinish
Island and in Bamboo Park (opposite).
The rough, rocky Caha Mountains make
for good hill walking. There are plenty of
gentler strolls too, in mature oak woodlands
and through the coastal Blue Pool Amenity Area where seals, perched on submerged
rocks, appear to levitate on the water.
In the second half of the 19th century,
Glengarriff became a popular retreat for
prosperous Victorians, who sailed across
from England, took the train to Bantry,
then chugged over to Glengarriff in a paddle
steamer. By 1850 the road to Kenmare had
been blasted through the mountains and the
link with Killarney was established. Today
Glengarriff lies on the main Cork to Killarney
road; despite drawing crowds, theres still a
satisfying back-country feel to the place.
Information
Theres a Filte Ireland tourist office (%63084; Main
St; h9.15am-1pm & 2-5pm Jun-Aug) and a privately
lonelyplanet.com
run tourist office (h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat JunAug) beside the Blue Pool Ferries terminal.
Theres no bank here but the post office
on the main street (which is also the Spar
shop) has a bureau de change.
Sights
GARINISH (ILNACULLIN) ISLAND
The magical Italianate garden (%63040; adult/

senior & child 3.70/2.20; h 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat
& 11am-6.30pm Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat &
11am-6.30pm Sun Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat
& 1-5pm Sun Mar & Oct, last admission 1hr before closing)
on Garinish Island is a must. Exotic plants

flourish in the rich soil and warm climate.
The camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons especially provide a blaze of colour in
a landscape usually dominated by greens and
browns. There are good views from a Grecian
temple at the end of a cypress avenue, and a
spectacular panorama from the top of the
19th-century Martello tower, built to watch
out for a possible Napoleonic invasion.
This little miracle of a place was created
in the early 20th century, when the islands
owner Annan Bryce commissioned the English
0
0
BEARA PENINSULA (RING OF BEARA)
10 km
6 miles
N71
N70
Kenmare
KERRY
N70
Ballinskelligs
Bay
Lookout
Sneem
Lough
Currane
Iveragh
Peninsula
Tahilla
Parknasilla
Eagles
Hill
Staigue
Fort
Caherdaniel
R571
Kenmare
River
Lauragh
Derrynane
House
Glanmore
Lake
Lamb's
Head
R571
Eyeries
Copper
Mines
Dursey
Island
ta
s
in
CORK
Glengarriff
Sugarloaf Mt
Knockowen
Coomacloghane
(574m)
(658m)
(599m) Healy
Pass
ish
k
is ins
Hungry
Hill
ay
e M ta
(Cnoc Daod) Adrigole
aW
ev un
Bear
(685m)
Sli Mo
Maulin
(621m)
Beara
Peninsula
R575
Knockgour
(481m)
Allihies
Cable
Car
R574
ou
M
ha
Ca
Garinish N71
Island
Ardgroom
Inishfarnard
Cod's
Head
Barraboy Mt
(412m)
Knocknagorraveela
(507m)
Coomnadiha
(644m)
Castlecove
Waterville
Waterfall
Castletownbere
Derricreeveen
R572
Bere
Island
R572
Whiddy
Island
N71
Bantry
Bay
architect Harold Peto to design her a garden

on the then-barren outcrop.
Garinish Island is reached by taking a 10minute boat trip past islands and colonies of
basking seals. Three ferry companies leave
every 20 to 30 minutes when the garden is open.
The return boat fare (adult 8 to 12, child 6)
doesnt include entry to the gardens:
Blue Pool Ferries (%63333) From the centre of the
village, near the Quills Woollen Market.
Harbour Queen Ferries (%63116, 087-234 5861)
From the pier opposite the Eccles Hotel.
Lady Ellen (%087-944 3784) From Ellens Rock, 1.6km
along the Castletownbere road.
BAMBOO PARK
Another garden is Bamboo Park (%63570; www

.bamboo-park.com; adult/child 5/free; h9am-7pm), which
flourishes thanks to Glengarriffs mild, frostfree climate. There are 12 hectares of exotic
plants, including palm trees and tree ferns, and
coastal woodland walks. Lining the waterfront
are 13 ivy-covered stone pillars, the origin of
which remains a mystery, even to locals.
GLENGARRIFF WOODS NATURE RESERVE
The 300-hectare ancient woodland lining

Glengarriffs glacial valley was owned by the
White family of Bantry House in the 18th
century. The thick tree cover maintains humid
conditions which allow ferns and mosses to
flourish. Look out especially for rare kidney
saxifrage (tiny white flowers on red stems
rising from rosettes of leaves).
The woodlands and bogs are also home to
Irelands only arboreal ant and the rare and
protected Kerry slug. If youre lucky, youll
see these spotty cream-coloured gastropods
chewing on lichen after rainfall.
There are four marked trails through the
reserve, separately covering woodland, mountain, river and meadow, and you can combine
them to form one big walk (8.5km, three to
four hours).
To get to the woods, leave Glengarriff on
the N71 Kenmare road. The entrance is about
1km along on the left.
Activities
Rirreen
Durrus
For deep-sea fishing trips, contact Brendan at

Harbour Queen Ferries (%63116, 087-234 5861).
Cahermore
CORK
Dursey
Head
B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) G l e n g a r r i f f 241
Dunmanus
Bay
Mt
Gabriel
Ballydehob
Sleeping
Murphys Village Hostel (%63555; Main St; dm/d
15/40) Right at the heart of Glengarriff, Mur-
phys is a cheerful, well-run hostel with spacious, bright rooms and comfy pine bunks.
The roof terrace, looking over a sea of trees, is
a sociable place on warm evenings. The owners also run the cheerful Village Caf downstairs; its open from June to September.
Dowlings Camping & Caravan Park (%/fax 63154;
Castletownbere Rd; camp sites 18; hEaster-Oct) This
well set-up park, 4km west of Glengarriff on
the road to Castletownbere, is located in a
woodland setting. Amenities include a games
room and a licensed bar staging traditional
music every night from June to August.
River Lodge B&B (%63043; Castletownbere Rd; s/d
50/80; hFeb-Nov; p) On the edge of Glengarriff, on the Castletownbere road, River Lodge
is a modern house surrounded by beautiful gardens. The rooms are plain and oldfashioned but theres a certain muddled charm
to the place. The affable hosts serve up homebaked bread for breakfast.
Caseys Hotel (%63010; Main St; s/d 52/92; p)
Old-fashioned Caseys has been welcoming
guests since 1884 and is proud of past visitors such as Eamon de Valera. Rooms are a
little dated and some are a touch cramped,
but youre treated with immense warmth
and there are characterful public spaces and
a patio-garden to enjoy.
Eccles Hotel (x63003; www.eccleshotel.com; Glengarriff Harbour; d 126; p) The Eccles has a long and
distinguished history, counting the British
War Office, Thackeray, George Bernard Shaw
and WB Yeats as former occupants. The dcor
is slightly parochial but the rooms are big and
sunny and theres a pleasant air of nostalgia
about the place. For the best views, ask for a
bay-side room on the 4th floor.
Eating
Rainbow Restaurant (%63440; Main St; lunch 9-15, dinner 14-28) Local dishes are the fare here, with
the emphasis on seafood. Sitting on the streetside benches and tucking into Bantry Bay
mussels or seafood chowder with soda bread
is a fine way to spend a sunny evening.
Hawthorne Bar (bar meals 4.50-10, mains 10-16)
This less formal establishment, part of the
same operation as the Rainbow Restaurant
next door, does stonking portions of goodvalue bar food.
Martello Restaurant (%63860; Garinish Ct, Main
St; lunch 11-18, dinner 20-28; h12.30-3.30pm & 6.309.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-3.30pm Sun Jun-Aug, 6.30-9.30pm
Thu-Sat, 12.30-3.30pm Sun Sep-May) This smart but
COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
Ballycarbery
Castle
242 B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) G l e n g a r r i f f t o C a s t l e t o w n b e re
casual bistro serves up Glengarriffs tastiest

grub. There are steak sandwiches and pastas
for lunch, or you can return later for local
dishes such as flambed Bantry Bay scallops
and crab claws. Booking is advised.

A bus travels three times daily Monday to
Saturday (twice Sunday) from Glengarriff to
Bantry (3, 30 minutes) and Cork (13.50,
2 hours). Buses are less frequent in the
other direction to Adrigole and Castletownbere. For details of the Berehaven bus
service, see p238.
Getting Around
Glengarriff Cabs (% 63060, 087-973 0741; www
.glengarrifftours.ie) also runs day trips. Contact
Gene for details.
to one of Irelands largest fishing fleets and

retains the bustle of a working port.
The helpful tourist office (%70054; www.beara
tourism.com; Main St; h Tue-Sat) is just outside
the Church of Ireland. Beara Action Group
(%70880; www.bearainfo.com; per 30/60min 3.5/4.5)
has internet access. On Main St, youll find

a post office with bureau de change, an Allied Irish Bank with an ATM, and a string
of pubs. OSheas Laundrette (%70966; Main St;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat) charges 1
per pound for washing.
Sights
The Call of the Sea (%70835; www.callofthesea.com;
North Rd; adult/child 4/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm
Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, phone for opening times outside these
months) is a small museum with a nautical
lodge.com; Adrigole; camp sites 15, dm 17, d 34-40;

p) is a well-situated hostel with excellent
Activities
facilities (and a pub), just beyond Adrigole

village. Its in a peaceful location, perfect for
walking, cycling and watersports. The owners can organise bike hire for 12.50 per day
and refill divers air bottles for 5.
CASTLETOWNBERE & AROUND

%027 / pop 850
Tourism is not the first concern in Castletownbere (Baile Chais Bhara), and as a
result, there is a refreshing appeal to the
everydayness of the place. The town is home
Beara Diving & Watersports (%71682, 087-699

3793; www.bearadiving.com; the Square; h10am-6pm
Junmid-Sep, noon-5pm Mon-Sat May, 10am-5.30pm Sat
rest of year) Runs PADI courses and has boat dives (49
with equipment) from Easter to mid-September, when you
might meet Dirk, the friendly conger eel.
Bike N Beara Bike Hire (x74898, 086-1280 307;
per day/week from 12.50/70) Can drop off bikes at your
accommodation. Enquiries at SuperValu on Main St.
Sea Kayaking West Cork (%70692, 086-309 8654;
www.seakayakingwestcork.com) Takes you out for a paddle for 45 per half day.
lonelyplanet.com
B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) C a s t l e t o w n b e re & A r o u n d 243
DETOUR: BERE ISLAND

Someone stopped the clocks on deliciously remote Bere Island sometime in the 1950s. Or so it
feels, with life trundling along at a slower pace than on the mainland. Lying 2km out to sea,
separated from Castletownbere by the second deepest natural harbour in the world (after Sydney),
the island is home to only 230 residents. In the summer the population swells with holidaymakers who come mainly for the islands relaxed pace of life and unspoilt beauty. If you must do
something, there are two Martello towers, an abandoned British fort, walking and cycling routes,
and plenty of sheltered coves for swimming.
To the east, Rirreen village has the most amenities, with a general store, pub, caf and bright,
tidy rooms at Lawrence Cove Lodge (x027-75988; www.lawrencecovelodge.com; dm/s/d 27/45/70; w).
The village of Derricreeveen, to the west, has a caf and pub.
There are two regular ferry services to the island: Bere Island Car Ferries (x027-75009; www
.bereislandferries.com) runs from Castletownbere to Derricreeveen, while Murphys Ferry Service
(x027-75014; www.murphysferry.com) runs to Rirreen from a pontoon 3km east of Castletownbere.
The crossing takes 20 minutes; return tickets are 6 to 8 on foot or 25 in a car.
Theres more info about the island at www.bereisland.net.
Silver Dawn (x70979, 086-816 2899; www.ireland

seafishing.com) Nifty new boat for deep-sea fishing (350
per half-day) plus coastal sightseeing (adult/child 25/15).
Sleeping
Harbour Lodge Hostel (%71043; www.harbourlodge
.net; Old Convent; dm/d 18/36; pw) This large
building, situated off Main St, used to be a
convent. Its a strange old place: just have a
look at the refectory-like dining room. The
rooms are worn but spacious, particularly the
doubles, which have proper beds rather than
the usual bunks.
Rodeen B&B (%70158; www.rodeencountryhouse
.com; s/d 45/70; hMar-Oct; p) A delightful haven,
tucked away above the eastern approach to
town. The bright house has stunning sea views
and is surrounded by gardens full of crumbling Delphic columns and other surprises.
Flowers from the garden grace the breakfast
table, and there are homebaked scones with
honey from landlady Ellens bees.
Cametringane Hotel (%70379; www.camehotel
.com; the Harbour; s/d 70/140; p) The best thing
about this hotel are the rooms with balconies,
where you can sit in the sunshine and watch
the boats on the harbour. Youll need to book
long in advance for these. Everything here
feels very fresh. The hotel is on the far side
of the harbour.
See also Dzoghen Beara Buddhist Meditation Centre (opposite).
Eating
Copper Kettle (x71792; the Square; mains 10-12;
h10am-5pm) While there are hefty portions
of lasagne, stir fries and sandwiches on offer

at this convivial little caf near the water, the
home baking is the clincher. Start with apple
pie, continue with scones and finish it all off
with chocolate cake.
Olde Bakery (%70869; [email protected];
Castletown House; mains 13-21; h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun,
plus noon-4.30pm Sun) One of the best restaurants
in town, the Olde Bakery serves good-value

portions of standard international grub within
its rustic, wood-panelled walls. The seafood
dishes are best: try the tiger prawns in satay.
For all the makings of a decent picnic, head
to Taste (x71842; Main St; h9.30am-6pm).
Drinking
oMcCarthys Bar (x70014; Main St) If youre
carrying a copy of Pete McCarthys bestseller,
McCarthys Bar, youll be excited to see the
front-cover photo sitting in three dimensions
on Main St. McCarthys is a grocery as well as a
pub, so if you fancy a tin of peaches and a bottle
of bleach to go with your Beamish, youve come
to the right place. Theres frequent live music
and a wicked wee snug inside the door.

Bus ireann (%021-450 8188) runs three buses
from Cork to Castletownbere (17, 3 hours)
Monday to Saturday and two on Sunday, via
Bantry, Glengarriff and Adrigole. Harringtons
(%74003) runs a private bus between Cork and
Castletownbere at 8am daily except Thursday
and Sunday. ODonoghues (%70007) runs one
on Thursday (7.30am) and Sunday (4.50pm)
instead. Buses leave from the square.
COUNTY CORK
The landscape becomes more rugged and

impressive as you head west from Glengarriff towards Castletownbere. On the highest
hills, Sugarloaf Mountain and Hungry Hill,
rock walls known as benches snake backwards and forwards across the slopes. They
can make walking on these mountains quite
challenging, and dangerous in fog. Take a
map (Ordnance Survey Discovery series 84
and 85 cover the area) and compass if venturing into the hills, and seek local advice.
Adrigole is a scattered strip of houses, ideal
for walkers and sailors who like peace and
quiet. The West Cork Sailing Centre (%027-60132;
www.westcorksailing.com; the Boat House) offers everything from kayak hire to family sailing holidays. A half-day sailing course costs 160,
an hours kayaking 12 and an action day
of various watery activities 75.
Hungry Hill Lodge (%027-60228; www.hungryhill
flavour where the smuggling, mining, fishing and naval history of the Beara Peninsula
is explored in a series of interesting, sometimes hands-on exhibitions (try your skills at
morse code). Its on the R571 running north
from Castletownbere.
On a lonely hill 2km from Castletownbere, the impressive Derreenataggart Stone
Circle, consisting of 10 stones, can be found
close to the roadside. Its signposted at a
turn-off to the right at the western end of
town. There are a number of other standing
stones in the surrounding area.
The remote Dzogchen Beara Buddhist meditation centre (%73032; www.dzogchenbeara.org; Garranes,
Allihies) is 8km southwest of Castletownbere on
top of Black Ball Head. The solitude and some
of the best sea views in western Cork set the
mood. Accommodation is available in selfcatering cottages (per week 305-425) or the hostel
(dm 15). Visitors are welcome to attend sessions,
and the retreat offers regular seminars and
study groups. Enquire by phone or email.
GLENGARRIFF TO CASTLETOWNBERE
COUNTY CORK
lonelyplanet.com
244 B E A R A P E N I N S U L A ( R I N G O F B E A R A ) D u r s e y I s l a n d
DURSEY ISLAND
.milleenscheese.com), from pioneering producer
%027 / pop 60
Veronica Steele. She welcomes visitors to her

farm phone ahead.
The coast road rejoins the main road at
the small village of Ardgroom (Ard Dhr).
As you head east towards Lauragh, look for
signs pointing to the Ardgroom stone circle,
an unusual Bronze Age monument with
nine tall, thin uprights. Theres rough parking at the end of a narrow approach lane.
The circle is visible about 200m away and a
path leads to it across bogland.
Lauragh (Laith Reach), situated northeast
of Ardgroom, is in County Kerry. Its home
to the Derreen Gardens (%064-83103; adult/child
6/3; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct), planted by the fifth
Lord Lansdowne around the turn of the
20th century. Mossy paths weave through an
abundance of interesting plants, including
spectacular New Zealand tree ferns and red
cedars, and you may see seals on the shore.
From Lauragh, a serpentine road travels
11km south across Healy Pass and down to Adrigole, offering spectacular views of the rocky
inland scenery. About 1km west of Lauragh,
along the R572, is a road to Glanmore Lake,
with the remains of an old hermitage on a
tiny island in the middle. There are walking
opportunities in the area, but gaining access
can be problematic: ask locally for advice.
Tiny Dursey Island, at the end of the peninsula, is reached by Irelands only cable car (adult/
child return 4/1; h9-11am, 2.30-5pm & 7-8pm Mon-Sat,
9-10am, 1-2pm, 4-4.30pm & 7-7.30pm Sun), which sways
precariously 30m above Dursey Sound. Livestock take precedence over humans in the
queue, and bikes are not allowed. The later
times shown above are for returning only.
The island, just 6.5km long by 1.5km
wide, is a wild bird and whale sanctuary,
and dolphins can sometimes be seen swimming in the waters around it. Theres no accommodation on the island, but its easy to
find somewhere to camp.
The Beara Way loops round the island for
11km, and the signal tower is an obvious
destination for a short walk.
NORTHSIDE OF THE BEARA

A single-track road snakes round the northern coast, past boulder-strewn fields tumbling dramatically towards the ocean. It can
feel satisfyingly remote your only company
along some stretches are flocks of sheep and
the odd sheepdog.
Allihies & the Copper Mines

Copper-ore deposits were first identified
on the far Beara in 1810. While mining
quickly brought wealth to the Puxley family
who owned the land, it brought low wages
and dangerous, unhealthy working conditions for the workforce, which at one time
numbered 1300. Experienced Cornish miners were brought into the area, and the dramatic ruins of engine-houses replicate those
of Cornwalls coastal tin mines. As late as
the 1930s, more than 30,000 tonnes of pure
copper were exported annually, but by 1962
the last mine was closed. Watch out for hidden mineshafts if you go for a wander.
There are pubs and B&Bs in Allihies (Na
hAilich), and a small tourist information
kiosk, beside the church, opens in summer.
Eyeries to Lauragh
Heading north and east from Allihies, a
23km coastal road, with hedges of fuchsias
and rhododendrons, twists and turns all
the way to Eyeries. This cluster of brightly
coloured houses overlooking Coulagh Bay
is often used as a film set. The town is also
home to Milleens cheese (h 027 74079; www
Sleeping & Eating

There are pubs and B&Bs in Eyeries, Ardgroom and Allihies. In high season, check with
the Castletownbere tourist office (p242).
Glanmore Lake Hostel (% 064-83181; www
.anoige.ie; Glanmore Lake; dm adult/child 15/12; hendMayend-Sep; p) A timeless atmosphere and an
engaging location at the heart of Glanmore

make this remote An ige hostel an appealing place. Its in Glanmores old National
Schoolhouse, 5.6km from Lauragh. Take the
road for Glanmore Lake and keep going.
Allihies Village Hostel (x027-73107; www.allihies
hostel.net; Allihies; dm/d/f 18/50/65; w) Run by father-and-daughter team Michael and Sarah,
this is a model hostel. Gleaming from top
to bottom, there are smart wood-floored
dorms and public areas, a courtyard and
barbecue area. Michael is a mine of information on the area and can advise on local
walks and pony-trekking.
oJosies Lakeview House (x064-83155;
Glanmore Lake; lunch 3-13, mains 14-24) If there are
better views to accompany your food in
Lonely Planet Publications

N O R T H E R N C O R K M a l l o w 245
Northern Cork lacks the glamour and romance of the countys coastal regions, but
there is a pleasant sense of escape from the
mainstream, and the areas towns and villages
have a refreshing rural integrity.
Castle (Bridge St), which dates back to 1585. Also

look out for the distinctive Clock House (Bridge
St), designed by an amateur architect after an
Alpine holiday youd never guess.
You can hire fishing rods for 10 to 15
per day from Country Lifestyle (x20121; Spa
Walk) near the tourist office, and bikes for
15 per day from Cremin Cycles (x 42465;
Bridge St).
A haven of peace, Ard Na Laoi (%/fax 22317;
Bathview, Mallow; s/d 39/60; p) is a lovely house
in garden surroundings and has big alluring rooms. The hallway and reception rooms
have remarkable embossed and painted tin
ceilings, an American custom that was
introduced by the original owner.
Longueville House (x47156; www.longuevillehouse
.ie; s/d 110/260; p), 7km from Mallow off the
N72, has the timeless atmosphere of all good
country-house hotels. The rooms, from the
exquisite bedrooms to the renowned Presidents Restaurant, are opulently decorated.
Go fishing, traipse around the gardens, read
the papers in front of the fire or just scoff
the local produce.
Buses run hourly every day between Mallow and Cork (7.90, 35 minutes) and trains
run every two hours (8, 25 minutes).
MALLOW
AROUND MALLOW
Ireland, weve yet to find them. Josies sits on

a hill overlooking Glanmore Lake come for
lunch as the sun sparkles on the water or for
dinner as it sets behind the mountains. The
philosophy in the kitchen is simple: homely
food, well made. Choose from salads and
sandwiches during the day or heartier rack
of lamb and local seafood specials at night.
Josies is 4km from Lauragh; take the road
for Glanmore Lake and follow the signs.

The bus service is limited. Bus 282 runs
between Kenmare and Castletownbere via
Lauragh, twice daily Monday to Saturday
in July and August only. Contact Bus ireann
(%021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) for times and
prices. Allihies is served by privately run
ODonoghues (%027-70007).
NORTHERN CORK
x022 / pop 7900
Mallow (Mala) is a prosperous town located

in the Blackwater Valley, which caters for fans
of fishing, golfing and horse racing. Visitors
to its spa in the 19th century christened it
the Bath of Ireland. The comparison is farfetched these days though the architecture in
the town centre hints at its former grandeur.
The tourist office (x42222; www.eastcorktourism
.com; h9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) can help
with accommodation and activities.
In the town itself, you can spot white fallow deer around the imposing ruins of Mallow
At Buttevant, about 20km north of Mallow

on the N20, are the ruins of a 13th-century
Franciscan abbey. Between Mallow and Killarney, you might want to divert to see the wellpreserved remains of 17th-century Kanturk
Castle. Inhabited only by crows these days, the
castle acted as both fortification and country
house from the early 17th century to 1906.
Red deer scamper around the 400 acres of
landscaped gardens at Doneraile Park (hcloses
8pm), 13km northeast of Mallow. There are
woodland walkways, cascades and playgrounds to keep the kids happy.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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COUNTY CORK
COUNTY CORK
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Lonely Planet Publications

great selection of restaurants (p207), pubs

road around the Beara Peninsula (p239)

be had along Corks southern coast, from

dour in inland Cork, with mountainous

Ahoy There! Unspoilt fishing villages, in-

cluding Union Hall (p227), Glandore (p227),

flurry of urban renewal that began with the

Cork buzzes with the energy of a city thats

corcach (marshy place). By the 12th century

Connollys Bookshop (%427 5366; Rory Gallagher Pl,

The Rebel Citys deep-seated Irishness

Webworkhouse.com (%427 3090; www

The banks on St Patricks St have ATMs

.webworkhouse.com; 8A Winthrop St; per hr

Cork City Tourist Office (%425 5100;

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cork International Hostel.......... 37

Franciscan Well Brewery............67

To N25; Fota Wildlife Park

out for ugly scenes around central pubs and

Crawford Municipal Art Gallery

collection, featuring works by Irish artists

Gothic and medieval whimsy. Local legend

Lewis Glucksman Gallery

tling limestone, steel and timber construction,

Cork Public Museum

history from the Stone Age right up to local

Beamish & Crawford Brewery

porter brewery in Ireland. Enjoyable tours end

Liar, so-called as each of the towers four

historical importance of the industry to the

Located in a pleasant Georgian house in

.corkcitycouncil.ie/amenities; Fitzgerald Park; admission free;

(x427 9925; www.corkvisioncentre.com; St Peters Church,

Its worth popping into the Cork Vision Centre

Arrangements Unlimited (%429 3873; www

Bus ireann (%450 8188; www.buseireann.ie; adult/

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Corona Cork Film Festival (www.corkfilmfest.org)

Guinness Jazz Festival (www.corkjazzfestival.com) All-

star line-up in venues across town held, in October.

Western Rd has the biggest choice of B&Bs.

Sheilas heaves with young travellers, and its

tel is in a quiet spot near St Annes Church

brick building near the university, this An

this buzzing hostel has its own internet

.com; 2 Clarence Tce, North Summer Hill; r from 40; p )

Near the top of busy Summer Hill is this gay

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Another top-notch B&B, Crawford House has

day, when you can scoff veggie lasagne, salads,

the Lewis Glucksman Gallery has panoramic

Isaacs Hotel (%450 0011; www.isaacs.ie; 48 MacCurtain

the Imperial knows how to age gracefully.

cool, confident caf is often quiet during the

Lewis Glucksman Gallery, University College Cork; dishes 8-11;