SEWING

COMPANION

Easy Guide to

LIBRARY

Sewing Skirts

Which Skirt
to Make?
Anyone can sew a skirt, so if you're just learning, a skirt is the
perfect starting point. You can get the color, style, and fit you
want, and the length that's exactly right for you.
The number of choices in the pattern books may seem
overwhelming at first, but there are really only a few skirt styles
and silhouettes to choose from. In this chapter, you'll learn how to
determine which styles work best on your figure and which styles
and fabrics are best for your skill level.
A simple style and a beautiful fabric are the best combination for
fast, easy, and successful sewing Uust look at the skirts in any
Calvin Klein collection). When you want to make a skirt quickly,
stay at or just below your skill level and use the techniques and
details that you've mastered. If you want to stretch your limits,
choose skirts with some new element-a different zipper
application, a more fitted style, or a more challenging fabric.
The more difficult and time-consuming skirts to sew are those
that are fitted at the waist, high hip, and full hip, or that have
more pattern pieces and construction details, such as pleats
or pockets.

Choosing the Best Style

Begin in your closet. Try on your favorite skirts.
Make notes and take measurements.
Decide which styles and silhouettes look best on you. What are
the most flattering lengths? Which waistband styles, lengths, and
widths are most comfortable? What is the hip measurement of the
fitted skirt that looks best on you?
Next, take your tape measure to the stores. Try on a variety of
skirts to see what works for you and what doesn't.

(I

do this at

least twice a year-late August and March are when the stores
have the best seasonal selections.) Again, make notes of the most
flattering lengths, hem widths, waistbands, and so on. Check the
fabric types-this will help you learn which fabrics work best for
which styles. If you find a skirt in the stores that looks fabulous
on you, you'll probably be able to find something similar in the
pattern books.

Wh at's Best for Me?

Skirt styles fall into a few basic categories: straight, A-line or
flared, gored, pleated/tucked, gathered, wrap, and bias. But how
well a particular style will look on you depends on your figure
type. Some styles look good on almost anyone, while others seem
to suit a particular body shape. The so-called "average" or slim,
well-proportioned figure can wear almost any style of skirt. Four
of the other common figure types and the styles that most flatter
them are described on the facing page.
The chart on pp.lO-13 describes each of the basic skirt styles, the
figure type best suited to each, the range of sewing skills required,
and the recommended fabrics. For easy reference, each skirt style
is coded with the appropriate figure symbols. The page numbers
in parentheses direct you to more detailed discussion of the
suggested style variations and design details.

Which Skirt to Make?

F I G URE TYPES

[I]

x or Hourglass

The hourglass figure looks balanced,

[j]

H or Rectangular

The rectangular figure has few

curvaceous, and wel l defi ned. The shou lders and h i ps

curves and not m uch waist l i n e defi n ition. The

appear to be the same width, and the bust and h i ps

shou lders and the h i ps are s i m ilar i n width, which

are about lOi n . to 12 i n . larger than the waist (an

makes the figure appear balanced. If you have a

hourglass figure m ight measure 38-27-38, for

rectangular shape, most l i kely your clothes usually

example). A woman with th i s shape can wear both

hang wel l . You can wear skirts that are sl i m-fitti ng, as
wel l as ones that are gracefu l and flowing.

straight and flared styles. If you're fu l l figured,

however, you ' l l look better with stra ight l i nes that
m i n i m ize your curves, such as those on a skirt with
vertical seams.

[l]

A or Pear

On a pear-shaped figure, the shoulders

[!]

Y or Wedge

The wedge figure has shoulders that are

appear narrower than the h i ps or th ighs, the bust i s

broader than the h i ps, and the upper arms may be

small, a n d t h e waist is sma l l i n proportion t o the h i ps.

heavy. Some women develop a wedge shape as they

age; others are born with these proportions. If you

If you are pear shaped-most women are-avoid

b u l ky skirts and severe sl im-l i ne skirts. Flared, A-l i ne,
gored, and bias skirts are most flattering. To

have a wedge shape, s l i m skirts are made for you .

Gored and bias skirts are also good choices.

camouflage fu l l h i ps, choose soft, flowing fabrics, soft

pleats, and long, gracefu l skirts.

Hourglass figure

Pear figure

Rectangular figure

Wedge figure

Choosing the Best Style

STYLES, SKILLS, AND FABRICS

Skirt
types

Style and
figure notes

Required
skills

Suggested
faorics

STRAIGHT

More than any other

style, straight skirts
reveal the figure. An
oversized top worn over
a straight skirt, however,
works wel l on figures
with proportional ly large
hips.

Straight skirts fit closer to

the body than any other
style, so it's important to
have some experience
with fitting.

For fitted, darted styles,

the best fabrics are
m idweight, sometimes
termed "bottom
weights" that is, for skirts
or pants.

[I][j][!]
A straight skirt is cut straight
(or tapers in slightly) from the
f u l l hip to the hem.

Short straight skirts

ending just above the
knee are the most
flatteri ng. Super-short
straight skirts, such as
the micro-mini, are best
on slim, long-l egged
figures.
Long straight skirts can
have an air of chic, but
look dowdy if they're
the wrong length.
They're best if they end
where the leg begins to
taper.
Some French designers
use patterns that are
slightly "pegged" at the
in.
hem-cut about
narrower than the f u l l
h i p at each side seam. A
pegged skirt tapers from
fu l l hip to hem, creating
a curvy, pleasing line for
al most any figure that
can wear a slim skirt.

1/2

10

Which Skirt to Make?

A traditional tailored
straight skirt might have
darts, soft pleats, curved
seams, a zipper, fitted
waistband, vent or kick
pleat, and a l i ning.
Easy: A slim skirt with a
pul l-on e lasticized
waistband (pp. 89-91 ) is
an ideal beginner's
project. A French vent
(p. 72) and lining
(pp. 82-85) are optional .
Average: Soft front pleats
(pp. 6 1-63); darts (p. 59),
gathers (pp. 64-65), or
elastic (pp. 96-98) in the
back; machine-stitched
zipper (pp. 78-79) at
center-back seam;
optional French vent
(p. 72) and lining
(pp. 82-85).
Advanced: Darts
(pp. 59-60) in front and
back; shaped darts for
better fit or pockets
(pp.66-69); hand-picked
zipper (p. 79); lining
(pp. 82-85).

The best choices in

wools are crepe,
lightweight gabardine,
fine tweeds, and twills.
Avoid wool flannel;
most kinds are too stiff
and heavy for any skirt.
Other fabrics that work
wel l are linens, sil k linen
or b lends, light tweeds,
brushed cottons, and
den i m-weight cottons.
For pul l-on straight
skirts, fabrics should be
soft and fl uid to avoid
excess bu l k at the waist
and high hip. Silks, wool
jersey, chal l is, and rayon
are good choices.

Skirt
type

Style and
figure notes

Required
skills

Suggested
fabrics

A-LINE/FLARED

The A-line or flared skirt

is probably the best style
for most women. It
works well on figures
with a small waist in
proportion to the hips;
adds the i l l usion of a
waist on straight up-and
down figures; and may
be the only style that
works on fu ll-hipped
figures.

A-line skirts may be

fitted at the waist, high
hip, and fu l l hip, which
requires ski l l in fitting.
They can also be fu l l
with a n el asticized
waistband-super-easy
to sew and fit.

Because A-line skirts are

usual ly flowing, choose
fabrics that drape and
move nicely.

[IJ[j][I]
An A-line skirt is fu ller at
the hem than at the waist.

Check the shapes of the

pattern pieces on the
instruction sheet. The
skirt should be flared, not
rectangu lar. If the
lengthwise grain is at
center back or front, you
may want to alter it for a
more flattering effect.
Also check the finished
skirt width at the hem to
be sure it's exactly what
you want, based on the
measurements you've
taken of garments in your
wardrobe or in stores.

Easy: Full skirt with pu ll

on elasticized waistband
(pp. 89-91); gathers
(pp. 64-65) or soft pleats
(p. 61); machine-sewn
hem (pp. 106-107).
Average: Fitted or
partially elasticized
waistband (pp. 96-98);
zipper (pp. 74-8 1);
pocket detailing
(pp. 66-69); curved
seams (p. 53).

For more fitted styles,

choose wool crepe,
double knits, light
gabardine, rayon and
silk tweed, brushed
denim, suede, sil k linen.
For full, gathered, or
softly pleated flared
styles, pick sil k
broadcloth, crepe de
chine, rayon, challis,
tissue faille, cotton knits,
sil k noil, wool jersey.

Advanced: Bias cut

(pp. 37-39); lining
(pp. 82-83); raised
waistband (p.l 0 1 ); more
fitted, but the more fitted
the skirt, the more ski l l s
are required t o make it.

Choosing the Best Style

11

Skirt
type

Style and
figure notes

Required
skills

Suggested
fannes

CORED

A true classic, the gored

skirt is always in fashion.
It's also one of the most
flattering styles. The
vertical lines of a gored
skirt create an illusion of
height and slimness.

The more fitted the skirt,

the more important your
fitting ability. You' l l also
need accurate stitching
and pressing skills to
achieve flat, nearly
invisible seams. Hems
can be sewn by hand or
machine.

The best fabrics for this

style are fluid and
drapey.

[IJ[j][iJ[!]
This style consists of four, six,
eight, or more gores shaped
to flare from waist to hem.

A gored skirt can be

either straight or A-line,
depending on the
contours of the gores. If
you look best in a slim
skirt, choose a gored
style that's fitted at the
waist and hips and that
flares near the hemline.
If an A-line is best for
you, choose a skirt with
gores that flare from
waist or high hip.
Shaped and curvy gores
emphasize the hips.
(See pp. 108-109 for tips
on constructing a fitted,
lightly fitted, and full
gored skirt.)

12

Which Skirt to Make?

Easy: Pul l-on elasticized

waistband (pp. 89-91);
additional ease at waist
and hips (p.108).
Average: Lightly fitted
skirt (p. 1 08); invisible
zipper (pp. 80-8 1 );
mach ine-topstitched
hem (p. 1 06)
Advanced: Fitted
(p. 109); hand-picked or
invisible zipper (p. 79
and pp. 80-8 1 ); hand
sewn hem (p. 105).

Wool jersey, velour, and

wool double knits are
good for lightly fitted
skirts; wool crepe, silk
tweed, and fine worsted
wool for fitted skirts. Silk
crepe de chine and
rayon are also good
choices.
Avoid wool flannel and
gabardine.

Skirt
type

Style and
figure notes

PLEATED!TUCKED

Pleats create a subtle

vertical line while
softening the figure. A
skirt with all-arou nd
pleats, however, flatters
only s l i m, narrowhipped figures.

[j][!]
You can vary the size,
n u m ber and placement
of the pleats to create
different effects.

GATHERED

1Il111
Gathers emphasize the drape
and movement of soft, fluid
fabrics.

The position, direction,

and depth of the pleats
can be varied from those
on the pattern to achieve
the look that's best for
you . Experi ment.

Gathered skirts visually

add weight and bulk to
any figu re, so choose
your pattern and fabric
carefu l l y.
Beware the rectangu lar
shaped "di rndl" skirt,
which is fine for
children but frumpy on
most women . Check the
pattern instruction sheet
to make sure the pattern
pieces are narrower at
the waist than at the
hem.

Suggested
faorics

R uired
skil s
Easy: Soft pleats (p. 61 ).
Average: Pressed-down
or stitched-down pleats
(pp. 62-63).

Soft pleats require soft

fabrics, such as silk and
s i l kies, rayon, and jersey.

Advanced: A l l -around
pleats, which are
extremely difficu lt to fit.

The best choices for

pressed- or stitcheddown pleats are crisp
fabrics, such as l ight
gabardine and
menswear worsteds, s i l k
twi ll, and broadcloth .

Beginners often choose

to make a gathered skirt
as a fi rst project, but
gathers take patience
and fussing to get just
right.

To avoid an u nflattering
puffy look, use soft, fluid
fabrics, such as silk,
polyester "si l kies,"
rayon, jersey, and
challis.

Easy: Gathers created by

an elasticized waistband
(p. 89); short spans of
gathers.

If you're u nsure whether

a fabric is too heavy for
a gathered skirt, it
probably is.

Average/Advanced:
Long spans of gathers; a
m u l ti-tiered, Santa Fe
style skirt.

Carefu l l y position the

gathers (pp. 64-65) for
the most flattering effect.

Choosing the Best Style

13

Selecting the Pattern

Keep it simple. The key to success is to begin with a loose
fitting style and a beautifulfabnc.
As a rule, a garment with fewer pattern pieces requires less time
to fit and sew. Scrutinize the illustrations in the pattern books.
Keep in mind that each detail-yokes, pockets, pleats, raised
waistbands, and intricate seam treatments-adds time and
complexity to the project.
Build your skills gradually. With each new garment you make,
plan to add another technique or fitting skill to your repertOire.
For instance, once you've made a simple, slim skirt with an elastic
waistband and a machine-stitched hem, you may want to make
the same pattern again, this time adding pockets to the side
seams and hand-stitching the hem. Then you'll be ready for a
more challenging pattern, say, a darted skirt with a kick pleat and
a fitted waistband.

Beyond the Pattern Envelope

The pattern envelope contains a lot of useful information, but you
have to know how to interpret it. Pattern illustrations can be
somewhat misleading, because the artists' drawings are much
taller and slimmer than most real women actually are. So keep in
mind that you'll probably look very different in the skirt than the
figure in the sketch. Also, if there's a photograph of a designer
original, remember that the pattern company does not buy the
original pattern, but rather the right to copy the design, so the cut
of the garment won't be exactly the same.
Don't get distracted by details, such as a skirt pocket or the color
of the garment in the illustration. Look at the lines of the
drawings on the back of the pattern envelope. These will show you
the skirt's basic silhouette-that is, whether it is straight, flared,
or gathered.

14

Which Skirt to Make?

Open the envelope, if the retailer will allow you to, and check the
line drawing on the pattern instruction sheet. This is usually
larger than the one on the pattern envelope, and the details are
easier to see. Also check the shape and grainline position of the
pattern pieces.
Check the finished skirt length and width, and compare these to
your notes on what looks best on you. Your best lengths may vary,
too, depending on the style of the skirt. Length is simple to
change, but widths are more difficult to adjust, so you may need
to try another size.
Read through the pattern instructions. Be sure you understand or
can learn every step. Check the garment details to be sure you are
confident you can master them. If not, see if you can simplifY the
skirt, at least the first time you make it.

Which Size to Buy?

Choose a skirt pattern based on your full-hip measurement
(p. 28), not your waist measurement-the waistline is easier to
adjust than the hip. If your upper thighs are larger than your hips
(as on a pear-shaped figure), substitute your upper-thigh
measurement for the hip measurement when selecting the size.
If the skirt is part of an ensemble pattern, select the pattern size

W h i l e you're searc h ing the

pattern books for a skirt, be
sure to a l so check the patterns
that show ensembles. You just
m ight find the perfect skirt, as
wel l as a matching jacket or
coat.

you would normally take in a blouse or jacket. You don't have to

buy another pattern for the skirt-simply adjust the skirt pattern
to fit. It's much easier to alter a skirt than it is to alter a blouse or
a jacket.

Selecting the Pattern

15

Working with
Fabrics
It's impossible to select fabric without touching it. When you find
a fabric that appeals to you, open it out to the length of the
garment to examine its drape and overall effect. Crush it in your
hand to see if it wrinkles and if the creases disappear easily. Take
the bolt to a full-length mirror and hold the fabric up against you,
draping it like a skirt. Stand back and squint to get a different
perspective-sometimes a fabric that's appealing at close range
isn't when you see it from a distance.
If your skirt will have pleats, fold the fabric to duplicate them. If
you want to make a skirt with gathers, scrunch up the fabric to
imitate a gathered effect. From these tests, you'll discover whether
the fabric drapes smoothly and gracefully (which will flatter the
figure without adding bulk) or is stiff and three-dimensional.
When you begin shopping, the fabrics recommended on the back
of the pattern envelope are a good starting point. These are the
fabrics the pattern designer believes will work best for that
garment. Often these recommendations are too generic, however,
and make no allowances for the sewer's abilities. The
recommendations also fail to take into account that the
characteristics of a specific fabric type (such as wool gabardine)
can vary greatly. Consult the chart on pp. 10-13 for other
suggested fabrics for your skirt style.

A Glossary of Fashion Fabrics

Allow yourself time to seZect just the rightJabric-one that
you will eryoy sewing and wearing.
The most common mistake that sewers make is to pair a pattern
with an incompatible fabric. If a fabric seems too heavy, too
slippery, too wrinkly, too unstable, prone to fraying, or not quite
the right color, keep looking. Most sewers have a "little voice"
inside that instinctively recognizes when a fabric isn't acceptable.
Better to find out before the garment is made than during the
project or, worse yet, after the skirt is finished. When you're not
sure how a fabric will handle, buy

18

Working with Fabrics

118 yd.

to experiment with.

Foolproof Fabrics
Certain fabrics are like dependable old friends. They are a
pleasure to touch, gratifying to sew and press, and they wear,
move, and flow beautifully. Natural fibers head the list of foolproof
fabrics for skirts.

Cotton: Denim, brushed cotton, chambray, fine poplin, lawn.

Look

for long-fiber cottons (the best quality), which can be identified by

their beautiful sheen and resistance to wrinkles. A pleasure to sew
and press, these cottons last and last.

Wool: Wool crepe, double knits, wooljersey (though notJor rank

beginners), wool challis. The weight and drape of wool makes it a
perfect skirt fabric. Wool crepe is excellent, as the texture does not
add bulk to the figure. It's also easy to press and sew. Avoid wool
flannel entirely-it's thick and bulky and doesn't press well.

Linen: Linen blends.

Linen blends well with other fibers. With

linen/rayon, for example, you get the best of both fabrics-the

drape of rayon and the stability of linen. Moygashel, a brand
name Irish linen, doesn't wrinkle as much as other pure linens.
For slim and fitted flared skirts, choose heavy weights. Consider
lining your linen skirt, depending on the style.

Silk: Silk linen, silk noil, silk tweed, silk broadcloth.

Silk can be

smooth and slippery or have the look and feel of cotton or linen.
Until you have more experience, avoid the slippery silks, such as
charmeuse, crepe de chine, georgette, and chiffon.

N E E DLES, THREADS, AN D STITCH ES

For most skirt fabrics ( lightweight to midweight
wovens and some knits), a #12/80 universal-point
needle is best. With these fabrics, use a good-quality

With heavy, dense, thick, or textured fabrics, use a

longer stitch and larger needle. With denim, for

long-staple polyester thread and a 2 m m to 2 . 5 m m

example, use a #14/90 needle. Even if you r fabric isn't

heavy, because you are stitching through so many

stitch length (about 8 to 1 0 stitches per inch).

thicknesses, you may want to topstitch with a size

For very lightweight fabric, such as crepe de chine, use

#14/90 or special topstitching needle.

a smaller needle (#10/70) and finer thread-machine

I baste with silk thread to avoid making indentations in

embroidery thread, for example.

the fabric when I press it before the final stitching.

A Glossary of Fashion Fabrics

19

The feel, weight, and drape of the

fabric are essential to the success of
your finished garment.

Challenging Fabrics
Some fabrics are more challenging to work with because they
require expertise in cutting, handling, sewing, pressing, and
hand-stitching. To gain some experience gradually, combine a
challenging fabric with a simple-to-construct design. For example,
try making a simple four-gore pull-on skirt in rayon or silk crepe
de chine.

Rayon: A man-made fiber composed oj natural materials.

Rayon's

soft and drapey characteristics, which give the fabric its appeal,
are also what can make it hard to handle. Sand-washed rayons,
especially, shift and move easily while they are being cut and
sewn. Imported, cottonlike rayons are often more stable and easier
to handle than inexpensive, domestic versions. Try the wrinkle
test: If the wrinkles fall out after you crumple the fabriC, the rayon
is probably of good quality and will be easier to sew.

Polyester:

A man-made fiber that can look andJeel like silk or

rayon. Polyester is difficult to cut, sew, press, and shape. The fiber
is so strong that topstitching often puckers. Avoid polyester
"silkies" until you're a seasoned sewer, and even then, test the
fabriC first.

Wool gabardine: Can be firm and crisp or soft and drapey.

Although suitable for a variety of skirt styles, gabardine is a
difficult fabric for a beginner to work with because it eases poorly,
frays readily, and shows stitching errors. Gabardine also requires
expert pressing and topstitching to look its best.

20

Working with Fabrics

FABR ICS FOR POCK ETS, INTER FACINGS, AN D L ININGS

Once you've found your skirt fabric, select the fabrics
for the other items you'll include in the skirt.

Pockets: If the skirt fabric is

l ightweight, doesn't show

through from the right side, and won't stick to itself,

make the pockets from the same fabric. You can also

cuffs, woven fusible is perfect for waistbands. It creates

a crisp finish that holds the waistband's shape. Sew-in
interfacing doesn't work as wel l . There are also
waistband styles for which you don't need interfacing
(pp. 89-91) .

Lining: A lining fabric should be thin,

use the l i ning fabric to make the pockets.

Pockets may also be made of any strong, slippery
fabric or pl ain-weave cotton in a color close to that of
the skirt. Plain broadcloth or cotton twill are also good
to use.
If the skirt fabric is a pale color or white, make the
pockets of a lightweight lining fabric of nude- or flesh
toned silk or nylon organza.

strong, and

smooth . It should also be compatible with the weight,

drape, and care requirements of the skirt fabric. The
color should not be visible through the skirt fabric .
If your skirt pattern doesn't include a l i n i ng, you need
to calculate how much fabric you should buy. The
general rule is: double the skirt length . However, it's
safer to lay out your pattern pieces on the lining fabric
(except for the waistband, which is un l i ned). For future

Interfacing: You have a number of choices for

reference, note on the pattern envelope how much

waistband interfacing. You don't have to use what the

l i n i ng fabric you need for the skirt.

pattern says. Although designed for shirt collars and

Rayon linings are ideal. Not only are they inexpensive,

they "breathe" and have excel lent draping qualities.
They can be difficult to find, however. (polyester,
though less expensive and more available, doesn't
breathe wel l and has only fair draping qualities.)
Sil k is the ultimate in l uxury. It's expensive, feels
marvelous, and can add warmth to the garment.
Crepe de chine is an excellent and sumptuous
companion to wool crepe or light gabard ine. China

- -- /

/ ./

silk is an excellent traditional l i n i ng fabric, but beware

of the thin, cheap varieties-with any stress at all (as in
a fitted skirt), the seams may pull out.

Fusible interfacing creates a stable, crisp waistband.

Pockets

Waistband Interfacings

Linings

Plain-weave cotton

Fusible nonwoven, precut

Rayon

Plain broadcloth

Fusible woven yardage

Silk

Cotton twill

Sew-in woven, by the roll

Crepe de chine

Lining fabrics of sil k or

nylon organza

Elastic and flat-ribbed elastic

China silk

A Glossary of Fashion Fabrics

21

Prep

g the Fabric
arin
Prepare the fabric before you sew to ensure that the
finished garment will look, hang, and wear well.
Most fabric will shrink the first time it's laundered, so you should
wash or dry-clean it before you cut out the pattern pieces.
Preshrink using the same method you plan to use to launder your
finished skirt. For example, if you'll be washing and drying the
skirt by machine, pretreat the fabric by machine. After pre
shrinking, straighten the grain of the fabric by pulling or pressing
to ensure that the finished garment will look its best.

Pres

g and Pressing
hrinkin

Washing by hand is often the best way to launder hand-sewn

garments. To preshrink the fabric, either wash and dry it by
machine this first time only, or wash it by hand. To preshrink by
hand, fold the fabric and submerge it in warm to hot water and a
little detergent. (The detergent removes the excess dye or finishing
substance.) Then rinse and air-dry the fabric.
Undyed white and off-white wools tend to shrink at alarming rates
and should always be preshrunk. Lay the fabric on a large terry
towel that has just been washed in the machine (the towel should
be damp, not sodden). Roll the fabric and damp towel together like
a jelly roll, leave them overnight, and, the next day, press the
fabric smooth to remove the moisture.
Some fabrics, such as wool crepe, must be dry cleaned. To pre
shrink the fabric, have the dry cleaner process the piece of fabric
just as if it were a garment.
Not all fabrics need preshrinking. Many wools and silks are
"needle-ready," and need nothing more than a touch-up with the
iron before you lay out and cut the pattern pieces.
Press the preshrunk fabric before you cut out the pattern pieces
and hang it on a hanger so it won't wrinkle. Press and hang your
pattern pieces, too. They'll be easier to work with.

22

Working with Fabrics

Straightening the Grain

Even though fabric is woven straight (with the lengthwise and
crosswise threads at right angles to each other), it is often pulled
off-grain during the finishing process or as it is wound onto the
bolt. If you cut and sew a garment off-grain, it may never hang the
way you expect it to.
So, before you lay out your pattern pieces, check that the fabric is
on the "straight of the grain," that is, with all edges, selvage, and
cross grain straight and at right angles. Make a snip through the
selvage about 1 in. to 2 in. from one of the raw edges. Tear the
fabric if it tears easily and without distortion, or pull one thread
out and cut along the area it was pulled from. (Some fabric stores
will do this when you buy the fabric.)
Now fold the fabric in half, with selvages together. Press the fabric
and place it on a flat surface. The selvage and cross grain should
be straight and at right angles to each other; cross-grain threads
should lie on top of one another.
If the fabric is off-grain, pull the fabric firmly from the corners
along the bias to straighten it. If you have a lot of yardage, work
down the length of the fabric, pulling every 12 in. from corner to
corner. This task is easily accomplished with two people, but if
you're working alone, you can press the fabric, stretching it along
the bias as you work, as shown in the photo on the facing page.

To find the "straight of the grain, "

tear the fabric or pull a thread and
cut along the crosswise grain.
Check that the selvage and cross
grain are straight and at right angles.

Preparing the Fabric

23

Getting the
Right Fit
Part of the fun of sewing for yourself is to get the best fit possible.
Fitting is the process ?f adjusting or altering a commercial pattern
so that it will exactly fit the person who will wear the garment. It
is rare for anyone to have precisely the same measurements as a
commercial pattern, and seldom can a pattern be used straight
out of the envelope without changes. Altering and customizing the
pattern are as much a part of creating clothes as sewing and
pressing are.
Fitting has an undeserved reputation for being difficult. It's not,
but it can be time-consuming-up to one-third of the time it takes
to construct an entire garment is spent preparing and adjusting
the pattern. Once you know how your body differs from the
pattern, you can adjust all your patterns for your specific hip or
waist measurements, preferred length, or other variations. With
all the time you'll invest in perfecting a pattern, it certainly pays
to have a collection of favorites that you can use again and again.
Because fitting is a trial-and-error process, it helps to take a
fitting class or to have a friend who sews or a professional
dressmaker assist you in measuring and basic fitting. Reference
books help too.
One of the secrets to success in sewing is the process of "proofing"
the pattern. When you proof a pattern, you make certain that the
skirt will fit around your body and that it will be the right length.
Once that's accomplished, pin the tissue pieces together and try
on the pattern to check the style, details, and silhouette. When
you have a pattern that's exactly customized to the shape of your
body, you're ready to cut out the fabric and begin sewing a
garment you can be sure you'll enjoy wearing.
Make it your goal to add pattern adjustment and fitting to your
repertoire of sewing skills, expanding your knowledge bit by bit
with each project.

The Basics
For many people, fitting is a mystery-but it needn't be.
There arefour basic steps. Take them one at a time.
It also helps to have a few tools handy.

26

Getting the Right Fit

Four Basic Steps

Tools

If you fol low these four s i mple

steps before you cut your fabric,
any fitting you do during
construction wi l l be fi ne-tuni ng,
not a major overhaul .

Adjusting patterns is much si mpler

and the results are more
professional if you use the right
tools. Each tool has its own
specific uses for the various
patternmaking tasks; none
substitutes for another. As you
grow more fam i l iar with them,
they ' l l become l i ke extensions of
your hands.

1. Compare your

body
measurements to those of the
flat pattern (pp. 28-29) .
2. Proof the pattern to ensure that
the skirt w i l l be the right length
and wil l fit around your body
(pp . 30-33) .
3 . Pin the pattern pieces together
as they wi l l be sewn and try on the
pattern (p. 40). Adjust for
swayback (pp. 40-41), round
tum my (p. 42) or large h i ps (p. 43).
4. Make any desi red changes to
the pattern for pockets (p. 34),
wal ki ng ease (p. 35), linings
(p. 36) or changes in grainl ine
(pp. 37-39). Pin-fit aga i n if
necessa ry, and transfer any further
adjustments to the pattern.

Acquire the fol lowi ng, arranged

here i n order of necessity:
Of course, you' l l need a measuring
tape and 6-i n . gauge.
A 2-i n . by 18- i n . C-Thru ruler is
i nvaluable for creating straight
l i nes, finding right angles,
lengthening, shorte n i ng, and more.
A metal h i p curve is just right for
curving and shaping the h i ps,
waist, and legs. (This professional
pattern maker's tool is ava i l able at
stores that sel l patternmaking
suppl ies or from m a i l -order
sources.)
Once you use a metal yardstick
you' l l never aga in use a wooden
one. It's great for making clean,
long straight l i nes and edges.
There are severa l additional tools
you' l l fi nd useful when adjusting
your pattern-glue, tape, strips of
elastic, traci ng paper and pattern
ti ssue, penc i l s and pens, chalk,
Clo-ch al k, d ressmaker's penc i l s,
right-angle ruler, ful l-length m i rror,
hand m i rror, embroidery floss and
chen i l le need le, scissors, and
appl ique scissors. The l ist wi l l
conti nue to grow as you find your
own way of worki ng.

The Basics

27

Comparing Measurements
The first step in altering your pattern is to compare your
body measurements with the pattern's.

Measure
Your Body
The four critical measurements are
the waist, h igh h ip/tummy, ful l h ip,
and finished lengt h. Make a note
of these. They're essential for
alteri ng and fitting your pattern.
When measuring, wear the
underclothing and shoes you m ight
wear with the skirt.

Waist:

Measure waistline.

2 Measure high hip or tummy.

Pin a length of wide elastic

around your body where you'd
l i ke the skirt waistl i ne to be.
Measure over the elastic, hold ing a
finger underneath the tape
measure to a l low an adequate
amount of ease (1).

High hip/tummy: Check your side

view in a ful l-length m i rror and
measure your high h i p/tummy
wherever your figure is largest
between 1 1/2 in. and 4 in. below
the waist (2) . Be sure the tape
measure doesn't rise up slightly at
center front. Also measure from
waist to high h ip.

Measure full hip, and from waist

to full hip.

28

Getting the Right Fit

Measure finished length.

Full hip: Check your side view

agai n and measure around your
h ips at their ful lest point (th i s is the
ful l-hip measurement) . Also
measure from your waist to your
ful l h i p (3).

Finished length: Measure from the

waistl ine at the side seam or front
to the desi red finished length (4).
(Or measure the length of you r
favorite ski rt o f s i m i lar style.)
_

'll

Measure
Your Pattern
To make it easier to measure the
pattern, take it out of the envelope
and spread it out on a flat,
uncl uttered work table.

Measure the waistline, excluding the darts, tucks, pleats, and seam

allowances.

Waist: Hold the tape measure on

its edge (to make it easier to fol low
the pattern's cu rves) and measure
the waist along the stitch ing l i ne,
exc l u d ing seam a l l owances, tucks,
pleats, or darts ( 1 ) . Pin these in
position or simply skip over them
when measuring-th is wi l l give
you the actual measu rements of
the finished ski rt. (Because of the
ease b u i l t i nto the pattern, this
measu rement shou ld be larger than
the waist size l isted on the pattern
envelope.)

High hip/tummy: If you have a

rounded tummy or high round
h i ps, take an additional
measu rement 1 '/2 to 4 in. below
the waistl ine of your pattern.
Full hip: The fu l l- h i p measu rement
on the pattern w i l l be the same
d i stance from the waist as the
measu rement on you r body. If you r
ski rt has tucks or p leats, p i n them
into position fi rst to get a true
measu rement of the finished
garment (2).
Finished length: Along the ski rt's
center front or side sea m l ine,
measure from the waistl ine to the
bottom edge of the desi red hem.

Measure the pattern at full hip with the pleats pinned in position.

The Four Essential Measurements

r

-r

- - - - - - - - Waist
- - - - - - - - High hip/tummy
- - - - - - - - Full hip

(1'/2 in. to 4 in. below waist)

(9 in. below waist)

Before altering and fitting a

pattern, record these four
essential measurements of
your

ixxJy and your pattern.

- - - - - - - - Length (from waist according to preference)

Comparing Measurments

29

Proofing the Pattern

Adjust the length and width of the fiat pattern before.
you try it on to reduce the amount of fitting you'll need
to do later.
It's more efficient to lengthen or
shorten your pattern before you
add width so that you' l l be
work i n g only with the necessary
length. You' l l also be able to blend
the side seam lines easi ly and
accurately as you smooth the jog
that often occurs when you change
the length of the garment.
If you need to lengthen or shorten
your skirt 2 in. or less, sim ply add
or subtract length at the hem. If
you need to adjust it more than
2 i n . , a l ter the body of the skirt at
the lengthen/shorten l i ne.
If your pattern doesn't have a
lengthen/shorten line, add one so
you wil l be able to realign the top
and bottom halves of the skirt. To
do this, extend the gra i n line; then
d raw a line at a right angle to it at
the point where you want to
lengthen or shorten your skirt.
If your skirt is shaped at the hem,
as in a gored, flared, or pegged
ski rt, or if it has a kick pleat,
French vent, or hem detail ,
lengthen o r shorten below the ful l
h i p so as not to i nterfere with the
design deta i l .
You may need more fabric if you
lengthen or widen the skirt
significantly. To find out for sure,
do a trial layout of your pattern
pieces on paper or on a gridded
cutting board.
30

Getting the Right Fit

Lengthening
a Pattern
Cut a long the lengthen/shorten line
and tape or glue a piece of tissue
paper a long one cut edge,
overlapping the pattern and tissue
edges about 1/2 i n . (You can use
scrap pattern tissue, as long as it's
as wide as the pattern piece and at
least 1 i n . longer than he amount
you're adding to the skirt.)
On the scrap tissue, para l lel to the
lengthen/shorten line, mark the
amount you want to add to the
skirt. Extend the grainline th rough
the scrap tissue. Line it up with the
gra i n l ine on the other half of the
skirt pattern and glue or tape the
scrap tissue in place.
If you're not also changing the
width of the skirt, simply draw the
side seam l i nes on the scrap tissue
and blend the seam l i nes of the
skirt halves.
If you are changing the skirt width,
make these adjustments (p. 31) and
blend all the seam lines in one
operation .

To Shorten

To Lengthen

Center back

Cut pattern

Scrap tissue

apart on
lengtherv'

Fold the pattern

shorten line.

piece along the

lengtherv'shorten

Overlap

line. Bring the fold

pattern and

to meet the drawn

scrap edges

line. Tape or glue

Lengthen/shorten
line

about 'h in.

grainline

Draw a line

through the

parallel to the

scrap tissue.

-_--+
Align it with

lengtherv'shorten
line to mark the

the other

amount you wish

half of the

to shorten the

grainline
Blend searnlines on
scrap tissue.

pattern.

and tape it
in place.

Shortening
a Pattern

Adj usting
Width

Mark the amount you want

to shorten you r pattern by
d rawing a l ine paral lel to the
lengthen/shorten l ine.

Adjusting width is the most

common pattern alteration, and it
pays to master it from the start.
Increase or decrease skirt width at
the side seams only. If you add
width at center front or back, the
darts/tucks w i l l be positioned too
far apart.

Fold the pattern piece a long the

lenthen/shorten l ine and then l ift
the fold to meet the drawn l ine.
G lue or tape the pattern piece in
position. The pleat that forms
should be half the total amount to
be shortened (for example, if
you' re shortening the skirt 1 1/2 in.,
the pleat w i l l be % in. wide).
Make width adjustments, if
needed, at the hip or waist.
Connect and blend the seaml ines.

the fold in place.

Pleat will measure one-half

amount to

be shortened.

Although you ' l l decrease width

less frequently, the same principles
apply for both increasing and
decreasing. Adjust the side seams
on the pattern tissue, drawing in
new cutting l ines. This w i l l a l low
you to pin the tissue together along
the stitching l ines and try on the
paper pattern to test the fit.
The tota l amount of adjusted width
should be divided evenly among
the quarters of the skirt-if an extra
2 in. is needed, for example, add
1/2 in. at each side sea m .

Proofing the Pattern

31

You can add a total of u p to 8 in.

(2 i n . at each side seam) to the

CALCULATI NG PATIER N EASE

waist and/or hip before the shape

Two types of ease are built into the pattern: wearing ease and design
ease. Wearing ease is the amount of extra fabric you need to move

becomes distorted. If you need to

add more width than this, you

comfortably in a garment. Design ease is the amount of extra fabric the

sho u l d use a l arger-size pattern.

designer or patternmaker adds to give the garment a certain style and

look. The total amount of ease is the difference between the size

It's a l so possib l e to make vary i n g

measurements on the pattern envelope and the actual measurements of

the pattern.

adj ustments t o t h e hip, high hip,

For example, the size chart on the pattern envelope or in the pattern
book may indicate that a size 1 0 pattern has a waist of 26 in . and hips of
34 in. The skirt's flat pattern, however, measures 2 7112 in. at the waist
and 38 in. at the hip. This means there is 1112 in. of ease in the waist and
4 in. in the hip, which is standard for a straight skirt.
Flat-pattern measurement - Envelope measurement = Amount of ease

To determine the amount of ease in your pattern, measure the flat

pattern (p. 29) and compare these figures to the body measurements on
the pattern envelope. Write down the amount of ease your pattern
a l l ows in the waist, h igh hip, and fu ll h i p. When you adjust your pattern
for your body measurements, you want to maintain this amount of
pattern ease (as shown in the chart below).

and waist. Figures with a rounded

t u m m y or high rou nd hip, for
exam ple, may need extra w i dth
at the waist as well as at the high
h i p to achieve a smooth l i ne
(pp. 42-43). This is especial l y true
for small-waisted figures (an
e lasticized fitted waistband, p. 96,
works very well on these shapes) .
After you' ve made all necessary
adj ustments, u se l -i n . side seams
to b u i l d in extra fitting insurance.
This will a l low you enough extra
fabric to alter the skirt w h ile you ' re

CALC U LATING T H E W IDTH ADJ U STM ENT

Make a copy of this chart and record your body measurements, the flat-pattern's measurements, and the
pattern ease. The chart wil l help you determine how much to adjust your pattern at each seam for the best fit,
while retaining the right amount of wearing and design ease.

Waist
Body Measurement

29

Plus Ease (as calcu lated above)

1%

Total

30Y2

Minus Flat-Pattern Measurement

27112

Adj ustment to Pattern

(distributed evenly at side-seam a l lowances)

32

Getting the Right Fit

High hip/
tummy

Full hip

sewing; the extra seam width can

always be trimmed or evened
afterward .
Make dots on the tissue with a
penc i l to mark the amount you
need to adjust the side seams at
waist, h ig h h i p, and fu l l h i p. If
needed, attach scrap tissue paper
to the side seams to add enough
width (1 ) . Make sure you maintai n
the h i p ease a t you r fu l l-hip
measurement.
Use a h i p c u rve to connect the
dots, add i n g the same amount you
added to the fu l l h i p a l l the way
down the seam to the hem, i n
order to retai n the orig i n a l
s i l houette o f t h e ski rt.

1 Add extra

width to the side seams of the pattern pieces with tissue paper.

Remember to adjust the waistband

pattern piece if you make any
changes in the skirt width at the
waistl ine. If you add 112 i n . to each
of the ski rt's side seams, for
example, you ' l l also need to add
2 i n . to the waistband by add i ng
1 i n . to each waistband side seam.
As you become more adept at
making and fitting ski rts, you may
prefer simply to chalk-mark the
amount that you need to add or
subtract d i rectly onto the fabric (2),
and cut.

Mark additions directly onto fabric.

To Add Width to the Waistband

Ce te b

A hip c u rve w i l l help you

redraw the new s i l houette of
the skirt perfectly.

Cent r firont

....j,,-...,- ______ r.L'r-

Side seam

Scrap tissue

Grainline

Underlap

....)",AAr--'LJ

-r--J.oI ,Ir--

Side seam

7. At each side seam, spread the pattern one-halfthe amount you wish to add to the
waist. Clue or tape scrap tissue underneath, maintaining the alignment of the grainline.

2. Draw new cutting lines on the pattern tissue. Mark new side seams in the center of the
added tissue.

Proofing the Pattern

33

CustO

miz
ing the Pattern
Afew simple, optional alterations to thejlat pattern might
make your garment more attractive and comfortable.
Consider pockets, linings, and additional walking ease.

Adding
a Pocket
If you r pattern does not have a
pocket, borrow one from another
pattern . When you fi nd a pocket
that works wel l, copy it and save
it for future use.
Position the pocket pattern so it
extends i nto the waistband and
mark the open ing. If necessary,
shape the side seam so it is the
same as the side seam on you r
skirt. (Some skirts are cu rved to

the shape of the h i p, others are

straight.) Position the pocket
pattern on the skirt pattern,
a l i g n i ng them at the waist l ine, and
trace the ski rt's side seam onto the
pocket.
Transfer the marki ngs for the
pocket open ing with t i ny snips or
chalk marks on the wrong side of
the fabric.

Adding a Pocket

Align the pocket and skirt

---+---=-1::::=--

patterns at the waistline and

trace the skirt's side seam
onto the pocket.

34

Getting the Right Fit

Adding
W
g Ease

alkin

Wal ki ng ease, a secret of fine

d ressmakers and never calculated
i n commercial patterns, is a si mple
alteration that makes kick pleats,
French vents, sl its, front open i ngs,
button-front and wrap skirts hang
perfectly stra ight. In fact, the
straightness i s an optical i l l usion.

Adding Walking Ease

to a Pleat, Vent, or Slit

scrap
\
I I

Vent

When you add wal king ease, you

do not change the origi nal
gra i n l i ne of the garment. Make th i s
pattern change after a l l other
adj ustments are com pleted .

Kick Pleats, French Vents,

Slits Add wa l ki ng ease at the
front or back sea m l i ne, depe n d i n g
on the p l acement o f the kick
p leat, F rench vent, or s l it. Add
112 i n . for a knee- length ( 1 9-i n . to
24- i n .) skirt, 1 i n . for a m id-calf
( 3 2 - i n . to 3 6- i n . ) skirt. Add s l ightly
more Cia in. to 1/4 i n .) for heavy or
thick fabrics. Adj ust the l i n i ng
pattern too (p. 3 6 ) .
On t h e ski rt-pattern piece, c u t
along t h e seam l i ne/vent fold l i ne
from the hem to the waist. Tape or
g l ue a scrap of tissue along one
edge. Position the other edge so
that the wal king ease is added at
the bottom of the hem and tapers
to noth ing at the waist end of the
seam.

Center front
of skirt half

tissue

When a garment is cut stra ight,

there's a natural tendency for it to
hang open at the hem. If you add
wal k i ng ease, however, skirts
appear to hang arrow-stra ight.

The amount of ease is based on the

length of the garment and weight
of the fabric.

Adding Walking
Ease to a Wrap Skirt

Scrap

tissue

7. Cut along the seamlinc/vent fold line

7. Cut along the center front from hem

from the hem to the waist.

to waist, on both the right and left sides

2. Add walking ease at the bottom of

of the skirt.

the hem by spreading the pattem and

2. Add walking ease at the hem,

adding scrap tissue. Taper the slit in the

tapering the pattern slit to nothing at

pattem to nothing at the waistline.

the waistline. Add ease to a button

front skirt in the same way.

Other Skirt Styles For wrap or

button-front styles, add 112 i n . of
ease for knee- l ength s k i rts, 1 i n .
for m id-calf- l ength skirts. Add the
wa l k i ng ease at the center front,
from hem to wai st, on both the left
and the right s ides of the skirt.
If you r fabric i s a plaid or stripe, or
if it has a strong vertical des ign,
add wal k i n g ease at the side
seams.
For ski rts with side buttons, add
wa l k i ng ease at the front and back
side seams.

Customizing the Pattern

35

C UTTING
C HECKLIST
1 . Choose the l i n i ng fabric
for your ski rt (p. 2 1 ).
2 . Decide on the finished length
of the l i n i ng. Pick the hem
treatment you want to use
(pp. 84-85) and shorten the
l i n i ng accord i ngly, or simply cut
it 1 i n . shorter than the skirt.
3. Mark all the darts and tucks
with snips.
4 . Mark the center front and
back with sn ips.
5. Mark the zipper end with
a snip.

inin g

Adding a L

L i n i n g a skirt has m u ltiple benefits :

It gives a fi n ished look to the inside
of you r garment, makes the s k i rt
easy to s l i de on and off, and helps
it stay wri n k le-free. I n add ition, a
l i n ing keeps the skirt fabric from
c l i ng i n g and makes a l ightweight
fabric opaque.

with special deta i l s such as a

French vent, however, may req u i re
add itional adjustments, as shown
in the drawing below. When you
sew, stitch the l i n ing's side seams
sl ightly narrower (1/8 i n . ) to a l low
for sitting room and to keep the
seams from p u l l ing out.

Even if the s k i rt pattern i nc l udes a

l i n i ng, I p refer to cut one from the
skirt pattern p ieces. (For a l ist of
suggested l i n i n g fabrics, see p. 2 1 .)
L i n i ng fabrics are firm l y woven
and usua l l y have much less give
than the s k i rt fabric, so don't make
the l i n ing smal ler than the skirt.

Cut the l i n ing so the hem w i l l be at

least 1 i n . shorter than the ski rt,
wh i le covering the raw edge of the
s k i rt hem. Different l i n i ng-hem
fi n ishes may req u i re that you cut
the l i n i ng to sl ightly d i fferent
lengths (pp. 84-85). If you ' re not
sure how you're goi ng to fi n ish the
l i n i ng hem, s i mply cut the l i n i ng
1 i n . shorter than you r skirt. Tri m as
needed.

Cutting and constructing a l i n ing i s

s i mple and fast. L i n i ngs for skirts

LINING A SKIRT WITH A FRENCH VENT

1. To adj ust the skirt pattern to be
used for the l i n i ng, fold the pattern
piece back along the seaml i ne and
vent fold l i ne. Trace the cut edge
of the vent onto the pattern.
2. Add seam allowances by
drawing a new cutting l i ne 1 % i n .
from the traced l i ne, as shown i n
the drawing. T h i s allows for the
skirt's %-i n . seam allowance plus
the l i n i ng's %-i n . seam al lowance.
The skirt and the fi n ished l i n i ng
will be flush at the vent open i ng.

l % in.
Skirt pattem
cutting
line
Traced
line

1 1/4 in.
For lining pattern, mark new vent
cutting line

7 in. from skirt's vent line.

3. Now draw the %-i n . seam

allowance of the l ining vent,

i ncluding the corner, as shown.
Don't skip this step. You ' l l be
reinforci ng the seam l i nes at the
corner, so you' l l want them to be
clearly marked.

.., ..1-l/i

Skirt pattern

II
III
,I
II
I
,I

Mark
seamline
at comer.

Seamline
for %-in.
al lowance

Draw in seam allowances for the lining

vent % in. from new vent cutting line.

36

Getting the Right Fit

Changing
the Gr
e of
a Flared S

ainlin
kirt

The d rape and fl attering effect of

an A-l i ne or gored flared skirt can
be changed sign ificantly by
reposition i ng the gra i n l i ne on the
pattern pieces.
Lengthwise gra i n i s often placed at
center front and center back of the
pattern, on the lengthwise fold,
which makes the front and back
one pattern piece. This l ayout is
common on commercial patterns
because less fabric is req u i red than
with other l ayouts. It's the least
flatteri ng, however, as it resu l ts in a
wide s i l houette that broadens any
figure and exaggerates a tummy.
In addition, the b i as at the side
seam may stretch , creating an
u neven hem.
Two alternate lengthwise-grai n
positions a n d one b i as-gra i n
position for the same skirt panels
are shown on p. 38. Treat both
front and back pattern pieces i n
t h e same way. Remember that you
may need add itional fabric if you
change the gra i n l i ne. To figure out
the yardage you ' l l need, do a trial
layout on paper that i s the width of
you r fabric or on a gridded cutti ng
board. You can reposition the
gra i n l ine for any type of fabric.

Lengthwise Grain in Center

of Front and Back Panels
Often used by Ralph Lauren, t h i s
cut i s very fl attering and s l i m m i ng,
espec i a l l y for the pear-shaped
figu re. Becau se the fu l l ness h angs
even ly arou nd the s k i rt, an u neven
hem is less l i ke l y. T h i s l ayout is a
perfect choice for rayons, kn its, o r
other fabrics t h a t m a y stretch a t
the h e m .

To a lter t h e pattern, s i mply fold the

skirt panel in h alf, center seam. to
side seam. The waist shape w i l l
not match, but that's okay. Draw i n
a new gra i n l i ne down the center of
each panel . (Add seam a l l owances
at center front and back if the
original pattern was one piece cut
on the fold.)

Lengthwise Grain Parallel to

Side Seam I f the straight of the
gra i n i s para l lel to the side seam ,
t h e s k i rt's fu l l ness hangs a t the
center. The center seam i s on the
bias and may tend to stretch . Th i s
styl i ng c reates a strong vertical
l i ne, which i s espec i a l ly effective
w ith stri ped fabrics.
This layout broadens the figure and
emphasizes a protruding tummy or
derriere, but i s a good choice for a
figure with roundness at the side of
the h ips-the straight of the gra i n
fl attens out t h e c u rve.

Bias Grain The 45 d i agona l

l i ne through t h e lengthwise and
c rossw i se gra i n of the fabric i s the
bias. A bias-cut s k i rt req u i res more
fabric than any of the other
l ayouts, but noth i ng else has such
a beautifu l , flow i ng d rape.
The b i as cut w i l l reveal cu rves and
bulges, however, and garment
construction and hemm i ng take a
bit of special care. If you are
adapting a pattern with a one
piece front or back to a bias
layout, add seam a l lowances to the
center front and back. This way,
the garment w i l l hang without
twisting to one side.

Customizing the Pattern

37

Different Grainlines - Different Effects

How it's laid out

Center

How it looks

How it drapes

Side seam
./
Lengthwise grain in center of
front and back (typical in

Fullness tends to hang at the sides.

commercial pattems).

Cffi( Ii

Side seam
../
Lengthwise grain in center of
front and back panels.

Fullness hangs evenly around

the skirt.

Side seam
/
Lengthwise grain parallel to side

Fullness hangs at the center of the skirt;

seam.

sides hang straighter.

Center

Side seam
/
Bias grain.

Original grainline
New grainline - - - - - - - - - - -

38

Getting the Right Fit

Requires more fabric, but has

flowing drape.

The simplest way to a lter a pattern

for the b i as cut is to use a right
angle ruler that has a 45 angle
marked on it. An alternative i s to
mark l engthwise and crosswise
gra i ns with a C-Thru ru ler. Then
fold the fabric at a right angle
through the intersection of the
gra i n l i nes so the l i nes are
superimposed on each other. Draw
a l i ne along the fold to mark the
b i as gra i n l i ne. Mark a second bias
gra i n l i ne at 90 to the fi rst. This
way, when you turn over the
pattern piece to cut out the second
half, you can eas i l y position it.

Place bias-cut pattern pieces on a

s i ngle l ayer of fabric, keeping the
pattern in a one-way l ayout, that is,
with the nap of the fabric always i n
o n e d i rection. A l l the hems w i l l be
facing the same way.
When cutti ng two front or back
pieces in one l ayer of c loth, be
sure to fl i p the pattern piece over
to cut the second half so that they
w i l l be m i rror i mages.

Finding the Bias Grainline

I ,
I ,
I,
I,
I,

. .
' .
'" .
"

I
"
, I
"
,I
,I

.
I ,,
I,
I,
I.

".'.'
I

. .
. ,
. ,

"
, I
, I
,I
.'

"I

*
" , ,''':1
,

/./

"

2. Fold the fabric at the intersection of the

grainlines

7. With a C-Thru ruler, mark

the crosswise grain and
lengthwise grain.

50 the halves of the lines align.

3. Draw the bias grainline

on the fold. Draw another bias
grainline at

900 to the first.

Customizing the Pattern

39

Pin-Fitting Adjustments
There's no substitute for pin-:fitting your pattern and
altering it as carefully as you can before you cut the fabric.
Once the two-d i mensional flat
pattern has been adj usted, it's t i me
to have a look at you r pattern i n
three d i mensions.
Pi n-fitt i ng the pattern on you r
body, j u st a s if it were t h e fi n ished
skirt, al lows you to adjust for
aspects of you r body profi l e that
are not accounted for by
measurements a lone. A swayback,
a protrud i ng tummy, and a fu l ler
than average derriere, for example,
may prevent you r skirt pattern from
fitting wel l . These very common
adj u stments are best made on the
pattern tissue, now, before you cut
out the garment.

Try on the
Pattern
Pin the pattern together and try it
on as if it were the fi n ished skirt.
Place p i ns para l lel to the stitc h i ng
l i nes a long the seams. Pin any
darts, tucks, or p leats i n position .
Hold the pattern in p lace at the
waistl i ne with a 1 -i n .-wide length
of e lastic. Position the center fronts
and backs and check the fit,
length, and overa l l sty l i ng in a fu l l
length m irror. It takes o n l y a b i t of
practice to develop an eye for the
way the fin ished garment w i l l look.

40

Getting the Right Fit

U se a large hand m i rror to see the

back view. A knowledgeable friend
i s a l so a great hel p !
After you check the fit a n d length,
and have made the necessary
adju stments, see if the skirt needs
an adjustment for swayback or a
protrud ing tummy.

Adj usting
for Swayback
If the skirt needs some adjustment
for swayback, you ' l l fi nd
horizontal wrinkles at the center
back of the p i n-fitted skirt pattern,
j u st below the waistband. Here's
how to estimate the amount you ' l l
need to remove a t center back for
the skirt to l i e smooth l y.
Wh i l e pin-fitting, lower the
waistl ine at center back by s l i pp i ng
the pattern sl ightly u nder the
e lastic unti l the wri n kles are
e l i m i nated. Mark the pattern tissue
with a pen or pen c i l right u nder
the e l astic at center back. The
amount you ' l l need to remove
usually ranges from 1/4 i n . to 1 112 i n .
Pin a l l darts, pleats, o r tucks i n
p l ace. Then draw a new l i ne to
e l i m i nate the desi red amount of
pattern tissue, starti ng at center

back and gradually meeting the

waistl ine at the side seams. The
h i p c u rve i s the perfect tool for
drawing th i s new waistl i ne. If you r
ski rt h a s gathers, t h e l i ne i s less
critical, so s i mply d raw, freehand,
an even, s l ightly cu rved l i n e from
center back to side seam .
Overlap the pattern pieces for the
amount of the adjustment at the
center-back seam l i ne, taperi ng to
noth ing at the side seams. Redraw
the l i nes for darts, tucks, and the
center-back seam. Make
correspond i ng adjustments to the
back faci ng. Avoid the pins and cut
along the redrawn waist l i ne.
If you're working without a partner,
it may be d ifficult to determ i ne the
exact amount you ' l l need to
remove. That's okay. Esti mate now
and fine-tune the fit l ater wh i l e
you're constructing t h e garment.
You can make this swayback
alteration j u st before you apply the
waistband to the skirt, but you may
need to shorten the z i pper, too. It's
easiest to make pattern adjustments
before cutting, then double-check
them d u r i ng the garment's
construction .

If you r skirt has a rai sed

waistband (p. 1 01 ), make the
swayback adjustment by
cutt i ng the pattern back along
the waistl i n e, from the center
back to VB i n . from the side
seam.

To adjust for swayback, lower the waistline at center back until the
horizontal wrinkles are eliminated. You may need to remove from 1/4 in. to
1 1/2 in. of excess pattern tissue.

To Adjust for Swayback

_

Draw a new

_ _

waistline.

Center back

/
Pin darts, pleats, or tucks in place. Draw a new waistline,
eliminating the desired amount at center back. Taper the line
to meet the waistline at the side seams.

Pin Fitting Adjustments

41

Adj usting for a

Round Tummy
To adjust for a round tummy, you
usual l y need to add not only extra
width to you r pattern (pp. 3 1 -33),
but a l so extra l ength at center
front. When pin-fitting, check that
the skirt pattern sits correctly at the
waistl ine. If it doesn't, you ' l l need
to correct it by add ing length to the
pattern with scrap tissue. This l ittle
adjustment can actu a l l y m i n i m ize
the c u rve visual ly.

SiSIze;"" E
,"A
iAIUEg&

B..0NT

40

5KIR

If the pattern piece you're pin-fitting sits below the waistline because of a
protruding tummy, you need to add extra length at center front.

To Adjust for a Round Tummy

Add enough length so that the

pattern meets the waist l i ne
correctly and hangs over the
tummy smooth l y. Exactly how
much to add i s hard to estimate,
but it's best to al low a l ittle extra.
Average amounts range from 3fa i n .
(wh ich doesn't sound l ike much,
but can make a sma l l tummy
nearly van ish) to about 21/2 i n .

Scrap tissue

Center front

1. Pin darts, pleats, or

tucks in place.

2. Draw a line on the

Before you begin, p i n a n y pleats,

tucks, and darts in p lace. Draw a
l ine on the scrap tissue to i n d icate
the add itional pattern length at
center front and taper to noth ing at
the side seams. C u rve the cutt i ng
l i ne s l ightly outward over the
tummy using the hip c u rve. Tri m
the tissue with the pleats, tucks,
and darts in position.

scrap tissue to add the

desired amount at
center fron tapering
the line to nothing at
the side seams.

42

Getting the Right Fit

A figure with a round tummy

rare l y i s flattered by a darted
front skirt. E l i m i nate the darts
and ease the entire amou nt
across the front u s i ng the
technique known as staystitch
p l u s (p. 60).

Adj usting for

Full-Hip
Measurements

To Adjust for Rounded Full Hips

___

Back darts
---

The straight darts on a pattern are

designed for an "average" fu l l- h i p
measurement, b u t you c a n c u rve
the back darts to the exact shape of
you r figure. The darts should poi nt
toward and end 1 i n . to 1 1/2 i n .
away from the fu l lest part of the
figure. Shorten or lengthen them as
needed.
Worki ng from the m i d point of the
dart, add or subtract 1/8 i n . from
each of the original dart l i nes. U se
the h i p c u rve to re-mark the
stitc h i ng l i ne, beg i n n i n g and
end i ng at the top and bottom of
the dart.
For rounded fu l l h i ps, scoop in the
legs of the darts, a l lowing 1/4 in. of
extra fabric i n the garment per dart.
For flat or low derrieres and
narrow fu l l h i ps, cu rve the darts
out, e l i m i nating 1/4 i n . of fabric
from the garment per dart.

Center back

Scoop in darts

Y8 in. from

original stitching line.

This allows

'4 in. of extra

fabric in the garment per

dart.

To Adjust for Flat Full Hips

__ ,...._

---::::o Back darts

Center back

/
Curve out darts

',1, in.

from original stitching

line. This eliminates

'14 in. of fabric from the

garment per dart.

Mark the position of the new end

of the dart, and redraw the legs to
recon nect them to thei r original
positions at the waist.

Pin Fitting Adjustments

43