Denim Washing

Denim Washing Basic Steps and Guide..

Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes to match with every
dress. It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was originally employed in clothing for the pants and
overalls worn by miners on the west coast(US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making
denim the fashion icon that it is today including vast improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing etc. One of
the most important part of creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the washing . Washing plays such an important
part in the denim chain because of the umpteen effects that the consumers are looking for on their jeans . Lets
talk a bit about denim washing
BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES
Below is the brief introduction to common steps done & followed in denim garments washing in Laundries across
the world. Different kind & make of machines being used across the globe to hit similar results.
Every small step in denim washing makes a big difference because indigo dye has very poor wet & dry rubbing
fastness. All parameters are critical to maintain for repetitive results. Eg Many laundries across the Globe ignore
the importance of pH M:L:R & R P M of machine.

Some important steps in the process of Denim Washing

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Pre treatment ( Desizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)

Enzyme or Stone wash
Clean up to adjust the desire effect
Bleaching
Tinting / Dyeing
Softening & Much more..
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1.PRE TREATEMENT

This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim garment is decided that
its going to appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process
removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.
This step is also called desizing ( Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft yarn ). All the woven
fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for weaving.There are many types of sizes
available in the market but they can be divided in two major groups.
1. Water Soluble (CMC or PVA based sizes ) and
2. Dissolvable sizes in water ( Starch based ). Starch based sizes are most commonly used due to cheap
prices & readily availability.

Methods of Removing Sizes from Denim Jeans

Washing with High Alkaline agents ( i.e. Soda ash )
Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid )
Washing with Oxidative chemicals ( i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide )
Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase .. This is eco friendly & convenient .

2.Enzyme & Stone Washing Process Of Denim Garments

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There are four kind of Enzymes available in market for Denim Laundry business..

Amylase . Desizing
Cellulase . For Salt & pepper effect , contrast
Laccase. bio bleaching
Catalase Peroxide killer

Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtained from fermentations method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi.
The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it
works on cotton( Cellulosic fiber ) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.
There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing , Neutral, Acid and Bio polishing Enzyme.
Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH , Temperature & time. If any of these
parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be accurate.
The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they eco friendly.
Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also
widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.
Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the
parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand.
Cellulase are available in 3 categories
Neutral
Acidic &
Hybrid enzymes.
Neutral enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & its generally come sin powder
form & also retains better strength of fabric than acidic Cellulase. Where as acidic cellulase give faster results but
with too heavy back staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.

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Now a days laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral
& acid cellulase in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness &
known as Hybrid enzyme.
Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue
denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self life, laundries do not prefer it.

3.CLEAN UP
After finishing Enzyme wash it is must to add clean up process for better results & garments appearance & that
can be done in various ways & methods. As clean up is a must process to be carried out after every chemicals
steps done for any garments which allows next process to happen smoothly. All processes mentioned below kill/
deactivate the active enzymes process which is necessary in order to protect/retain garment strength

a.Hydrogen peroxide in alkaline pH clean up enhances the brightness & rich blue tone of indigo.
b.By using non ionic detergents in medium to high temperature
c.By doing two good hot water rinse etc.

4.BLEACHING

This in one an important step in washing denim & can be done by various bleaching agents ..

a.Calcium hypo chlorite

b.Sodium hypo chlorite
c.Hydrogen peroxide
d.Potassium permanganate

First two chemicals are commonly being used for every medium to vintage denim but when it comes to super
vintage & light shade its advisable to use potassium permanganate bleach to cut the color faster till half way &
then neutralize it & go with Liquid ( Hypo ) bleach to adjust the desired shade. This process helps to get Greyer
cast & also protects the lycra/spandex , retain elasticity.

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Hydrogen Peroxide is rarely used as bleaching agent when very less color loss required or if fabric is sulphur top.
As it takes longer time to give desired effect.
Potassium Permanganate is also being used on 100% sulphur black denim fabric for bleaching/reducing agent to
get unique effects. As its not production friendly till laundry have very expertise team to handle this program,
otherwise it will result in many shades & cast.
Proper Neutralizations of bleaching process is very essential in order to get rid of fabric strength , bad smell from
garment, yellowing & skin irritation etc

4.Tinting & Dyeing

Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being used to do this process.
This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up
indigo, reaches the level of dyeing.
Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This process takes from 5 minutes to 15
minutes time for better results followed by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.
Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim & Ready for dyeing denim.
There are various Types Of Dye . THe comparison of these dyes is given in the chart herebelow:
1-Direct Dyes
2-Reactive Dyes
3-Pigment Dyes
4-Sulphur Dyes
Direct Dyes

Reactive Dyes

Pigment Dyes

Sulphur Dyes

Economical

Costly

Cost Efficient

Economical

Wide range of
shades

Wide range of
shades

Styling ( limited Shades are dull

to dull shades)

Short Cycles

Long Cycle

Short to long
Cycle

Short to long
Cycle, depends
upon shade

Ease of

Water

Machine

Sulphur Odour
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application

Consumption
High

contamination, & harsh hand

but hard to
feel
obtain
consistency,
harsh hand feel

Smooth
Appearance

Smooth
Appearance

Smooth
Appearance

Smooth
Appearance

5.SOFTENING PROCESS
Softening process of Denim is very critical. As denim is very heavy in compare with other fabrics hence its needs
softening. During this process there is a big problem -the discoloration of denim i.e change in shade or loss of
whiteness, giving a yellow tint is commonly known as yellowing. By using normal softener will lead to ozone
problem. Indigo dyed fabric are even more prone to yellowing.
As its a widespread problem & there in no single reason for its cause. Instead a number of condition can singly or
in combination lead to the problem. Yellowing in not specific to certain fibers, finishes or washing processes. It is
not specific to chemicals or chemical treatment but certainly some of the factors among these can lead to the
yellowing. As cotton & all organic polymers develop yellowing in time.
Light , acids, impurities, detergents & chemical contribute to yellowing problems.
Temperature of drying & curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton. Therefore good control
must be used to minimize this type of damage.
Hence its advisable to use Antiozonate softener which prolong ozone reaction of Indigo & keep garment in good
condition.
MINIMISATION OF YELLOWING RISK:
Its Impossible to eliminate yellowing but it is possible to prolong & reduce the conditions which causes classical
yellowing:
Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper
Minimize back staining
Avoid use of chemicals which cause yellowing
Avoid leaving garment in open air for longer time
Control drying & curing temperatures
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Using right Antiozonate softener with right pH

Methods of Removing Sizes from Denim Jeans

Washing with High Alkaline agents (i.e. Soda ash)
Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid)
Washing with Oxidative chemicals (i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide)
Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase.. This is eco friendly & convenient.
First three methods are difficult, risky and expensive method at laundry business because of this nearly
all of the market prefers enzymatic de-sizing.
Preventation of creases:
One of the main problems in laundry business is creases.
We can separate creases into 4 groups related to their reasons;

Mechanic based creases:

these are the creases related to the ratio of water, loading capacity and rotation speed of drum.
Chemical reaction based creases:
These are the creases related to the wetting time of fabric or unevenness auxiliary applications

Fabric based creases:

These are the creases comes from the production of the fabric
Storage based creases.

DESZNG RECPE
LQOUR RATIO: 1/6-1/10 (DEPENDNG ON MACHNE TYPE)
TIME : 10 MNUTES
LAVA ZYME DEZ0,5-1 GR/LT( amylase enzyme for removing of size)
LAVA WET W-LA0,5-1 GR/LT(wetting and scouring agent)
LAVA SPERSE KDS0,5-1 GR/LT(dispersing and washing agent)
SERA LUPE M-CF0,5-1 GR/LT(anti-crease agent)

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WETTING DISPERSING AGENT

Used in Desizing process.

Must rapidly wet out jean.
Prevents white lines caused by rigid creases.
Permits penetration of Amylase to fully desize.
Prevents back staining of loose indigo onto weft yarns and pockets.
Also used in stonewash / after washing to reduce back staining.

BACK-STAINING:

Re-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during desizing, stonewashing or enzyme washing.
Re-deposited Indigo, reduces the contrast between warp and un dyed weft
Re-deposited indigo stains pockets and labels
Re-deposited indigo is more prone to Ozone and yellowing

ANTI-CREASE (Lava Lupe M-CF)

Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess .

Increases the loading capacity of the washing machine
Reduses the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess

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