FURNITURE

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FIX

IT

YOURSELF
FURNITURE

TIME-LIFE

BOOKS

ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA

Fix

Yourself

It

ST.

was produced by

REMY PRESS

MANAGING EDITOR
MANAGING ART DIRECTOR

Kenneth Winchester
Pierre Leveille

THE CONSULTANTS

Staff for Furniture

Series Editor

Kathleen M. Kiely

Senior Editor

Susan Bryan Reid

Francine Lemieux

Art Director

Research Editor
Designer
Contributing Writers

Consulting Editor David L. Harrison

Bibliographies Inc.

including

Cameron

Elizabeth

Beverley Bennett, Margaret Caldbick,

Earle, Elizabeth Hart,

Mitchell Herf, Michael Kleiza, Brian Parsons,

Kathleen Pick, Alison Piper

Technical Illustrator

Gerard Mariscalchi, Jacques Proulx

Robert Monte

Index

Christine M.

Denise Rainville

Coordinator

Michelle Turbide

Studio Director

Photographer

Inc. is

do-it-yourself series.

Repair and Improvement. The Encyclopedia

and The Art of Sewing.

Monte Burch has

more than 50 books on subjects

and cabinetmaking. He regularly
contributes home improvement articles to national
magazines and is a member of the National Association of
Home and Workshop Writers.
such as

written

furniture repair

is Shop and Tools Editor of Popular

Mechanics magazine. He specializes in how-to articles for
do-it-yourselfers and has worked as a cabinetmaker, home
improvement contractor and carpenter.

Irvin Wheeler teaches courses in cabinetmaking and

woodworking techniques at Forsyth Technical College in
Winston-Salem, North Carolina. He owned and operated
Wheeler Refinishing, a furniture repair and refinishing store,

Fiona Gilsenan

Grynspan

Shirley

Simon Lapierre
Daniel Bazinet

for ten years.

Maryo Proulx

Leonard G. Lee,
Time-Life Books

Books

Editor of

He served as an

Joseph Truini

Jacobs

Administrator

Assistant

Managing

Robert Paquet

Cover

Systems Manager
Systems Analyst

Home

of Gardening

is

Alexandria. Virginia.

Solange Pelland

Edward

Contributing Illustrators

in

editor of several Time-Life

a wholly owned subsidiary of

TIME INCORPORATED

special consultant for

Canada,

is

president of Lee Valley Tools Ltd. and a woodworking

hobbyist. His

company

sells fine

woodworking

tools

and

supplies and publishes specialized catalogues and

brochures.

Founder
Editor-in-Chief

Chairman and Chief Executive Officer

President and Chief Operating Officer
Chairman of the Executive Committee
Corporate Editor

Group Vice President. Books

Vice President. Books

Henry R. Luce 1898-1967

Henry Anatole Grunwald
J.

Richard Munro

N. J. Nicholas Jr.

Ralph

Davidson

P.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Furniture I the editors of Time-Life Books,
cm. - (Fix it yourself)
p.

Ray Cave
Kelso

Sutton

F.

George Artandi

Includes index.

TIME-LIFE

BOOKS

ISBN 0-8094-6220-6
ISBN 0-8094-6221-4

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John

James

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1987 Time-Life Books Inc All rights reserved.

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CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

EMERGENCY GUIDE

CHAIRS

12

TABLES

30

BEDS

40

DRAWERS, DOORS AND SHELVES

48

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

64

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

76

REPAIRING SURFACES

84

REFINISHING

96

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

113

INDEX

126

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

128

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

Furniture

divided into three sections. The Emergency

is

provides information that can be indis-

Guide on pages

8-1

pensable

event of an emergency that

you

in the

are repairing furniture.

Take

section

contains.

it

book

the heart of the

and repairing

for troubleshooting

arise while

the time to study this section

before you need the important advice

The Repairs

may

a system

is

chairs, cabinets,

beds and

number of possible

causes. If the problem

nism on your extention

table,

you

a sticking mecha-

is

for detailed, step-by-step directions for cleaning

mechanism.
Each job has been rated by degree of

ing the

average time

Keep

in

it

mind

difficulty

that this rating is

only a suggestion. Before

deciding whether you should attempt a repair,

from the chapter on

instructions carefully.

ious features of the book and how they work. If your table
wobbles, for example, the Troubleshooting Guide will offer a

most
problems and

of tables, their

common

basic repair procedures.

first

complex or time-consuming

repairs,

ilandard urong

ond

table

corrmtt of three

mam

pant the

on -tnd the legs The lop it attached to (he apron, a

...! undertfructure, by metal clip-

r.ri/.*iul

tnuntenunk
Ihe apron

pocket hole* In vome timpte kitchen lahlcv

glued permanentl) 10 the tup Tahle ley* are

tn

it

ither

Ml
.null

deep.

r'ir\i

iry*orking

the

k\

taNet imtunrd

leaf table

tf>p

"Exploded" and cutaway diagrams

Locate and describe the components
of the table.

moctive and lenon

on a
leg

brace

tet

table lakes

ii'ini

k wood herr

hate ripandahir Hj

designed tor

lolding

it

together are light

:ii'.

thai are firm

lahtr

kMSHfAoOi

hardware More* and

Mi

tp4ii in ihr rilfe

ml..nimf
<>l

a lahtr lop

>upp*i

When

humiditt

it

kmf and

tight

disassembly.

ihe ihlfc) ones, leasing

and

Bob

lU

and together again White glue or sellow wood glue will

b I'ine clamps fpogt
the large turtle ol
fore applsing ihe \ lamps set the tabte upright, ihe

legs retiing tquarels

r>-

the tplit

and

cast,

ill
RRJ and
Avoid tampering *nh a

tahle repairt require the simplest oi TlflnJlfltl

j rvibher

EXTENSION TABLE

at th

the hanger holi enters the leg

'

its toll

apmn WooJ joints come unglucd and

weaken the wood CSUUroj spins .h tlv

ihe

nine

hraie and lunger noli

glue and clamping ihe table top to

this doesn't close the split, cut the

ll

and reglue the two pieces together Ipunr

should he refmithed after the repair

ed

at right

split

The

I9j

offer tablet Of end tablet that don't

hate apront the left are u retted Of glued to the tup Two "I
(

in

bring Ihe edits together

on

and place

weight on the table lop

.HOIJHtf'.MOOTiNf. C.UIOI

Degree of

-. ..i

difficulty

a-r.t

and lima

all

the

confi-

such as rewebbing a sofa

TABLES
A,

read

Then be guided by your own

dence, and the tools and time available to you. For more

Troubleshooting Guide
To use this chart, locate the symptom that most closely resembles
your problem, review the possible causes in column 2. then follow
the recommended procedures in column 3. Simple fixes may be
explained on the chart; in most cases you will be directed to an
illustrated, step-by-step repair sequence.

Introductory text
Describes the construction

and the

will take for a do-it-yourselfer to complete.

upholstered furniture. Pictured below are four sample pages

tables, with captions describing the var-

page 36
and lubricat-

will be directed to

Variations
Differences in style or construction are desenbed
throughout the book, particularly if a repair procedure
varies from one type to another

bottom or hand caning a chair

You

professional service.

will

you may wish to call for

have saved time and money

seat,

still

by diagnosing the problem yourself.

Most of the repairs in Furniture can be made with a screwdriver, a wood chisel, a hammer and a backsaw. For joining
wood, you will need clamps, carpenter's glue and a solid
workbench or table. You may also need power tools for some
and the proper way to use
repairs. Basic carpentry tools
them are presented in the Tools & Techniques section starting on page 13. If you are a novice when it comes to furniture
repair, read this section in preparation for a major job.

Name

of repair
will be referred by the
Troubleshooting Guide to the
page of a specific repair job.

Removing the

(op.

To locate the loose

look under the table, inspecting the legs

Spirts.

II

there

is

leg on a wobbly
and apron lor gaps

a crack around a morose, you can reglue

ome

any wood joint, first

remove the top Cover the Itoor or work, surface with an old blanket,
then inven the table on it Mosi table tops are fastened to the apron
with screws m metal clips or m angled pocket holes, shown here
Unscrew the lop (above), then irtt oft the legs ana apron and set
them upside down on the floor
without separating the joint (page 33)

To

the jomi
at

place, look

the top ol the leg

Remove any

separating the joint Try 10 pull Ihe (Oinl

repair

apan

easily,

anchor the apron with

with thick rubber gloves, and work

When

wood

using most

with a vapor

filter;

kind to your back

joint

a few sharp taps with

in a well-ventilated area.

wear a respirator
heavy sanding requires a dust mask. Be
work with a helper when lifting heavy
finishing products,

Most important, follow all safety

Emergency Guide and throughout the book.

pieces of furniture.
the

tips in

Cross-references
Direct you to important information
elsewhere in the book, including
access and finishing steps.

into the spli

n page 32 ttand
Gently dean debns out o'
work white or yellow glue
(above) for a hairline crack, you tan use instani glue (page
.

shop

legs

knife

and apron

Use

Clamping the

upright

careful not to get

any instant glue on your skin or the woe

Place a

spin,

pee damp

reefing pacts

the finish Tighten the

of

from on* leg to

wood at cork n as

damp

onk,

enough

to

bnng

contact Net attach a C damp across the lop

leg to he*) the leg together (above) paddkng me damp jaws Woe
sucoss glue with a dean damp doth Let the table stand tor 24
gluing surfaces

Be

tplil.

a toothpick to

squarely again si the leg and stnke ihe

Or give the

cutting

strong chemicals, such as paint stripper, protect your hands

Working glue

Separating the join

concealed lastene
or

it

when

safety goggles

with a power saw, and put on a pair of work gloves to

prevent cuts, especially when handling glass. If you are using

Lead-ins
first

Wear

wood

Bold lead-ins summarize each

step or highlight the key action
pictured in the illustration.

You

Furniture repair can lead to serious injury unless you take

certain basic precautions.

them

me damps

Turn the legs and apron upside

place over the table top and screw on the top

then release

It,

in

down

TIGHTENING A CORNER-BRACE JOINT

J
3

Cleaning the joint Use a s

(above) or coarse sandpaper

the gluing surfaces Scrape a*

Removing

Ihe leg. The

hanger

One end ol the hanger Bon has

o the leg. the other end ha
protrudes through me comer brace

botl

dried glue, taking care nol to whittle

wood Wipe

threads

the tenon with a dry ciol

The end

by a wing nut or hei nut and washer When a comer-pr;

loose, firsl try tightening the nut Tighten a wing nut by h
or a wrench W-ggie
tighten a he* nut with locking

pWs

Drilling a hole tor a dowel. Secure the a

imsn with cardboard or cor*

Gnc

the urv

More buy uroooe Sow*

me oob Ueeeurv r
-e same aemowr as r
ano use masting tape to nar* the
the Sepr c* re bo*
holt
the oowe* hole raoovev car**.*, totowng tie angle o Vie
ononai hc*e Stop when He ope touches rw eg 'ac worn parities
the bot *l haroware or
stock

woh a CtemeUr

depth

of the boll

buttng

suppft,

sfcr/wy larger than that o

nam Choose

dm

(M

o*

ooW
Dm

out of the hc*>

Tools and techniques

When a tool or method

Step-by-step procedures
is

required for a job,

is described within the step-by-step repair.

General information on carpentry techniques,
including the use of clamps, is covered in
the Tools & Techniques section (page 113).
it

Follow the numbered repair sequence carefully.

Depending on the

result of

each

step,

you may be

directed to a later step, or to another part of the book,

to complete the repair. Insets illustrate vanations and

provide close-up views of specific steps

EMERGENCY GUIDE
furniture repair. The emerfall into two categories: quick
clean-ups for spills on furniture, and immediate action for
mishaps that may arise as you are repairing furniture.
The most important rule for cleaning up spills that can mar
wood or upholstery is to act promptly (page 10). Keep on
hand a well-stocked household cleaning kit that includes
clean, absorbent cloths and talcum powder or cornstarch to
soak up stains before they set.
You can prevent most workshop mishaps by exercising the

Preventing problems

gency procedures

in this

in

section

commonsense precautions presented

here, but accidents

may

even the most careful worker. Sharp tools can cut skin
and rough lumber can cause splinters. Many solvents, adhesives, chemical strippers and refinishing supplies contain
chemicals that burn skin and eyes, and emit toxic fumes that
can cause dizziness and faintness.
Spontaneous combustion is always a danger around improperly stored rags that have been used for refinishing. Cigarette
ashes can cause fire to smolder in upholstered furniture and
mattresses, emitting harmful toxic fumes. Deprive fire of its
sneak attack by installing smoke detectors, and place fire
extinguishers in strategic spots so that you can snuff a blaze
before it gets the upper hand (page 11).
Equip the work area with a basic first aid kit containing a
mild antiseptic, adhesive bandages, sterilized gauze dressing,
adhesive tape, scissors and tweezers. Make sure the work area
is well lit and well ventilated. At the end of each job, put away
all materials, then vacuum or wet-mop the work area to keep it
tree of dust and hazardous chemicals. The list of safety tips at
right covers guidelines for performing repairs in this book;
refer to each chapter for more specific safety information.
The Troubleshooting Guide on page 9 puts emergency procedures at your fingertips. It lists quick-action steps to take,
and refers you to the procedures on pages 10 and
for more
befall

detailed information.

Read these emergency

SAFETY TIPS
Before beginning any repair

1.

this

in

book, read the entire

procedure. Familiarize yourself with the specific safety

information presented

each chapter.

in

read the label on any container of paint, solvent,

adhesive or refinishing product before using it. Follow the
manufacturer's instructions and pay special attention to hazard
warnings and storage instructions. If transferring the contents
to another container, label the new container accurately.
2. Carefully

3.

Guard against

shock when using power

electrical

tools.

Plug power tools into grounded outlets only, and never cut
or bypass the third, or grounding, prong on a power tool's

plug.

tool with

insulated."

Do

off

a two-prong plug must be labeled "double

not use any

power

tool in

damp

conditions.

Wear safety goggles when operating a circular saw and

when using toxic substances such as chemical strippers,

4.

solvents and refinishing products.

5.

Wear heavy gloves

to

handle broken glass and special

rubber gloves to apply caustic refinishing products.

6.

Wear a

respirator with a dust

filter

when when doing dusty

jobs and with an organic-vapor cartridge to protect against

toxic

fumes. Replace the

filters

regularly according to the

manufacturer's instructions.

Do

7.

not drink alcoholic beverages while using products that

produce
not

toxic

smoke

vapors

the combination can

cause

illness.

Do

while using flammable chemicals, and do not eat

in

the work area.

When

working with flammable chemicals or with power

have on hand a fire extinguisher rated ABC or BC, and
know how to use before you begin work (page 1 1). Install
smoke detectors in your home and work area.

8.

tools,

it

instructions thor-

oughly before you need to use them, and familiarize yourself

with the Tools & Techniques section (page 113), which

9.

Wear

long pants and a long-sleeved shirt

when working

dangerous to the skin. Change after

leaving the work area, and launder work clothes separately.

with chemicals that are

describes the safe use n\ tools.

When

in

doubt about your ability to handle an emergency,

don't hesitate to call lor help. Post

numbers

for the lire depart

ment and the poison control center near the telephone. Even in
non emergency situations, these professionals can answer
questions concerning the sale use of tools and materials. Con
suit your fire department or local environmental agenc) for
the correct disposal oi toxic products in

your community,

10. Ventilate the work area well when using paints, solvents,
adhesives and refinishing products. If you feel faint or sick,
leave the room and get fresh air (page 1 1), then improve
ventilation before continuing work.

11.

Hang rags soaked

in paint,

refinishing products outdoors

thoroughly, or store

12.
If

Keep

tools

and

them

solvent, adhesives or

and allow them

in airtight

to dry

metal or glass containers.

toxic materials out of the

reach

of children

children or pets contact or ingest chemicals, call the poison

control center or veterinarian at once. Store chemical products

away from sources

13.

Do

of

not pour paints, solvents, adhesives or refinishing

products

down a house

and

local

drain or into a septic system.

numbers of your fire department,

poison control center near the telephone.

14. Post the telephone

hospital

heat (including sunlight).

EMERGENCY GUIDE

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
PROCEDURE

SYMPTOM
paint or solvent

Fire in

Smoldering upholstery or mattress

Electrical fire in

power

Use ABC

or

Use A

ABC

BC

extinguisher

fire

1 1);

(p.

if

fire

spreads, leave house and

department

call fire

extinguisher (p. 11), or soak fire with plenty of water, then cut open
burned area or take furniture outside; if fire spreads, leave house and call fire department
or

fire

Unplug power cord;

fire continues, use ABC or
on fire, leave house and call fire department

tool

BC

if

fire

extinguisher

(p.

11);

outlet or wall

if

is

Cut or minor

wound

Stop the bleeding

(p.

1);

bleeding persists or

if

wound

is

deep, seek medical attention

Use needle

or tweezers, sterilized with alcohol or flame, to open skin around splinter

splinter out; if splinter is lodged deeply, seek medical attention

Splinter

Foreign particle

in

and

pull

Do not rub eye. Remove loose particle with moistened end of clean cloth or tissue. Do not
attempt to remove any particle on pupil or embedded in eye. If particle cannot be removed,
cover eye with sterile gauze and consult physician immediately.

eye

Paint, solvent, adhesive or refinishing product

splashed into eye

Flush eye with water

Dab acetone

Skin bonded with super adhesive

skin apart

(p.

1)

and consult physician immediately

remover on glued area and let

sit for a few minutes Gently peel
Repeat application
necessary. Wash area thoroughly with soap and

or nail polish

do not

pull.

it

if

water.

Eyelids

bonded with super adhesive

Do

Faintness, dizziness, nausea, blurred vision when

working with paints, solvents, adhesives, refinishing products
Paint, solvent,

adhesive or refinishing product

swallowed

not attempt to separate

on

label

Blot

Spill

on wood furniture

Wipe up immediately
wood finish (p. 86)

pull

Solvent, adhesive or refinishing product spilled

in work area

or

sparks or shocks user

to

up

spill

immediately without rubbing

touch

spill is

If

small, clean

more than a

IN

off

power

up immediately

(p.

10);

if

(p.

edges

66)

to center; clean

check

outlet

Open

for

A water-logged

more than a quart of flammable

house and call fire department
power

at service

material,

panel

unplug power cord, using glove or towel

and wiring

and condition

cabinet doors and

furniture.

spill is

tool, or turn off

at service panel, then

for insulation:

damage

FURNITURE AND THE WORKSHOP

if

if

yourself from inhaling toxic chemicals by wearing a respirator

with the appropriate

clean fabric

with clean, dry cloth, working from

Unplug power cord without touching

Turn

The fumes emitted by solvents found in some paints, adhesives,

inhaled in
chemical strippers and refinishing products are toxic
concentrated amounts. To reduce the risk to your health, work
outdoors
possible, positioning yourself and the furniture so that
fumes will be blown away from you.
Indoors, make sure the work area is well ventilated; open all
windows and aim a fan to the outside to vent fumes. Protect
fitted

10);

emergency

to hospital

gallon of any toxic material, leave

call electrician to

TOXIC MATERIALS

(p.

or physician immediately; follow

Place wet furniture on flat surface outdoors; do not place in sunlight.

out drawers. Remove cushions and slip covers from upholstered
mattress should be discarded

flood or leak

tool gives off

emergency room
and bring container with you

Call local poison control center,

on upholstery fabric

Power cord or plug sparking or hot

ventilate room;

if

Spill

Power

consult physician immediately

Leave room immediately to get fresh air (p. 11); have helper cover solvents and
read instructions on container label and seek medical attention
necessary

instructions

Water damage to furniture caused by

lids;

filter

cartridges (page

14).

When

sanding wood, wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling dust. Protect

your skin from caustic or toxic substances by wearing rubber
gloves rated to protect against the chemical you are using.

Plywood, particleboard, fiberboard and other manufactured

in furniture may contain urea formaldehyde, used
as a binder and adhesive. These wood products are safe to
handle, but the formaldehyde leaches into the air in a process
called "outgassing," which causes indoor pollution. Over the past
few years, manufacturers have reduced the use of formaldehyde
in wood products. To cut the formaldehyde levels in your home

wood products

and workshop, use solid wood, or particleboard made without

formaldehyde. Alternatively, use exterior-grade plywood, made
with a resin that is much more stable than formaldehyde. As an
extra precaution, seal all unfinished wood-product surfaces with
paint or polyurethane varnish.

EMERGENCY GUIDE

QUICK WIPE-UPS FOR FURNITURE SPILLS

ft

//

7//if

Absorbent cloth

Liquid
spill

im
Wfi
r
*

{//

Lifting a stain

from upholstery

^>

fabric. Treat spills on upholstery fabric immediately, before

To blot up a spilled
crumple up a clean, absorbent cloth and lightly dab the spill, absorbing the liquid into the
cloth (above, left). Continue blotting up the spill without rubbing until all of the liquid is absorbed.
To blot up grease or oil spills, pour an absorbent powder such as cornstarch or talcum powder
becomes
onto the spot (above, right). Leave the powder on the stain for one minute, or until
off or use a blunt knife or a spoon to scoop
saturated, then carefully shake
up. Repeat the
procedure, pouring on more clean powder and removing
carefully. To treat the remaining stain,
use the cleaning techniques described on page 66.
they have a chance to soak into the fabric and cause permanent stains.
liquid,

it

it

it

it

CLEANUPS

IN

THE WORKSHOP

Wiping up chemical

SOLVENTS FOR SPILLED CHEMICALS

spills in

Material

Solvent

Latex paint or water-based

Alkyd paint or

Linseed

oil

oil

wood

based wood

or tung

stain

stain

oil

Water

the work area.

spills.
If

Work

the area

quickly to clean up chemical

is

not already well ventilated,

open all windows and doors to the outside and turn on fans to
supplement air movement.
the spill is small, use a clean rag
dipped in the appropriate solvent (left) to wipe up the spill. For a
larger spill
up to a quart of flammable solvent or up to a gallon
of non-flammable toxic material
pour a generous amount of verIf

Mineral

spirits or

turpentine

Mineral

spirits or

turpentine

over the spill. Wait 15 minutes, or until the litter

has absorbed the spill, then use an old putty knife or a dustpan to
scoop the saturated litter into an empty disposable metal can.
miculite or cat

Varnish

Mineral spirits or turpentine

Lacquer

Mineral spirits or lacquer

thinner

Shellac

Denatured alcohol

White or yellow glue

W.ll.T

Contad cement
Contact cement

Water

litter

Repeat the procedure until the entire spill is lifted. Scrub any
remaining traces of the spill with a clean rag or brush it off with a
scrub brush dipped in the appropriate solvent. Mop the area with

warm, soapy water,

(solvent based)
(water based)

Mineral

rinse it and wipe it dry with a clean rag. To

dispose of all solvent-soaked materials, place them in airtight
metal or glass containers, then call your local fire department or
environmental agency for the laws regulating the disposal of toxic

spirits

materials

Epoxy glue

Soap and water

(it

not set)

(if

set)

your community.

in

more than the amounts of hazardous chemicals

described above, do not attempt to clean them up. Open any
windows and doors that you can reach quickly and safely, turn
off electrical power and pilot lights,
possible, then leave the
If

Acetone

you

spill

if

house and

10

call

the

fire

department

for advice.

EMERGENCY GUIDE
EXTINGUISHING A FIRE

Fighting a chemical

fire.

Have someone

department. If there are flames

or smoke coming from the walls or ceiling,
leave the house to call for help. To snuff a
call

the

small

fire

fire in

use a dry-chemical

stery,

rated

in a power
a mattress or uphol-

paints or solvents,

tool or outlet, or in

ABC. Note

tion yourself

to

fire

extinguisher

the nearest exit and posi-

10 feet from the

Holding the extinguisher upright,

fire.

the

pull

lock pin out of the handle

and aim the noz-

base

Squeeze

zle at the

of the flames.

the

handle and spray in a quick side-to-side

motion until the fire is completely out.

Watch

for "flashback." or rekindling,

prepared

to

spray again.

If

the

fire

and be

spreads,

leave the house. Dispose of any burned

waste following the advice of your local fire

department. Have your fire extinguisher

recharged professionally after any use.

FIRST AID

TREATMENTS

</

{(
|

*=U

l_

BLJ^aH

J.

(/aVM^^^v^VwM^^
Cuts and scratches. To stop
ing,

wrap a clean

and apply

direct

cloth

the bleed-

around the cut

pressure with your hand,

elevating the limb (above).

If

the cloth

becomes blood-soaked, add another

cloth to the wound without removing the
one. Continue applying pressure,
keeping the limb elevated, until the bleedfirst

ing subsides.
it

with

Seek medical
or

if

If

the

wound

is

minor,

soap and water and bandage

the

attention

wound

is

deep

if

wash
it.

bleeding persists

or gaping.

Toxic vapors. Exposure to toxic vapors can

cause headache, dizziness, faintness, fatigue
or nausea. At the first sign of any of these
symptoms, leave the work area immediately
and get fresh air. Remove all clothing that
has been splashed by chemicals. Loosen
your clothing at the waist, chest and neck.
If you feel faint, sit with your head lowered
between your knees (above). Have someone
ventilate the work area, close all containers,
read instructions on the container labels and
call

the poison control center

in

your area

Flushing chemicals from the eye. A

liquid

chemical accidentally splashed

the eye must be

washed out

in

quickly. Hold-

ing the eyelids apart with your fingers,

position the injured

flow of cool water,

eye under a gentle

the head to pre-

tilting

vent the chemical from being

washed

into

the uninjured eye (above). Flush the eye

for

10 minutes, then cover

it

with a sterile

gauze bandage and seek medical

atten-

tion immediately.

for

medical advice.

11

CHAIRS
A chair takes more punishment than any other piece of furniture. A simple kitchen chair weighs only a few pounds, but

it

regularly supports over a hundred pounds. Every day

dragged across the floor, rocked onto

as the weight on it shifts.

its

it

is

back legs and twisted

The joints, the weak points in a chair's structure, are first to

succumb to this treatment. A loose or broken joint should be
reglued or rebuilt as soon as possible; neglect leads to weakening of other joints. First try to pull a loose joint apart by hand.
If

does not separate, look for hidden nails or dowels

it

that

Whenever

lock the joint in place and remove them (page 123).

possible, separate the joint completely, scrape the dried glue

from both parts of the joint, then apply new glue and clamp the
When the joint cannot be completely separated, pull it

repair.

apart as far as possible,

can,

work

in

new

remove

as

much

of the old glue as you

glue and clamp the repair.

You

risk

weaken-

ing firm joints by forcing a loose one, so inspect other joints

before completing the repair.

As you dismantle

The

its

joints, note

how

the

show two typical

The most common

pictures at right

chair constructions: platform and frame.

dowel and mortise-and-tenon (Tools & Techniques,

dowel or tenon will have shrunk
and should be enlarged before gluing and clamping. One
handy trick is to wrap a glue-soaked cloth around the dowel or
tenon (page 121). A wood wedge can also be used to build up
a shrunken dowel or tenon. Rocking chairs are less susceptible

joints are

page

Glue and reinforce cracks in the rockers (page 22) or

have badly worn rockers replaced.
For many chair repairs, the only tools required are a rubber
mallet, wood glue and a web clamp (page 123). If you don't
own a rubber mallet, use a hammer and block of wood. A tourniquet clamp fashioned from strong cord or rope (page 123) is
an effective substitute for the web clamp. Hose clamps, available at hardware or automotive stores, make practical clamps
for round pieces. In some cases, heavy books and gravity can
do the work of a clamp.
Before clamping a chair, set it upright on a perfectly flat surface. Placing a weight on the seat will often protect the legs
from developing the annoying wobble symptomatic of a
reglued chair. For best results, clamp a freshly glued chair for
split.

24 hours.

room
it

a chair to clean

pieces are assembled.

to twisting than regular chairs, but the rockers occasionally

123). Occasionally, a

On

the other hand,

if

you

are repairing

you can

chairs at once and need the clamp,

dining

all six

safely release

after three to four hours; but leave the reglued chair undis-

turbed for the remaining 20 hours.

The

on a chair can

stress placed

wood

split a

seat or

wear an

upholstered seat. Cane and rush seats are even more fragile.

Prolong the life of a cane seat by regularly moistening its

underside with water. Prewoven cane is the easiest to replace.

Handweaving

individual strands of cane across a seat, or

around a chair frame, takes more time and

restoration inexpensive and rewarding for
the hobbyist. Craft or cane stores stock the necessary supplies.

wrapping

fiber rush

patience, but

makes

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Chair wobbly

Foot

Leg, stile or

rail

broken

rail

PROCEDURE
Glue

loose

foot

rail

14)

(p.

DO

Back loose

Separate back and reglue (platform,

Legs uneven

Sand bottoms

of legs until

even

(p.

p.

20)

Replace glides or

Legs loose

Separate legs from seat; reglue (platform,

Jagged, longitudinal

Glue

split

split (p.

insert

washers

in

glides

(p.

21)

Rocker runner broken

Break along grain

Glue and reinforce with a dowel

(p.

22)

Back

Wear and

Glue splat (p 20)

Bentwood curve

Wood

split

seat split

tear

Stress along bend

Steam

Wood

Glue seat (p. 24)

and glue (p. 24)

shrinkage

Upholstered seat worn

WMF

Cane

Stress, dry conditions

seat broken

and

Rush

seat broken

DEGREE OF

DIFFICULTY:
ESTIMATED TIME

12

WiMr

md
v
.

the wood, clamp

(p.

to 3

hours

DO
16)

HH

HH
HO

23)

HO

or disassemble chair, break seat along split

fabric (p. 25)

rush seat (p 29)

(p.

HH
26)

HO:

Complex
1

20)

15; frame, p.

HO

Reweave

'

Moderate
than hour w

DO;

and glue

Replace with prewoven cane

(p.

p.

DO

Replace upholstery

tear

HH

DO

20)

Glue and reinforce with a dowel

broken

16)

DO

Glides worn unevenly

Clean, complete break

splat

15: frame, p.

(Over 3 hours (Does not include drying time)

or

reweave cane seat

CHAIRS

Top

Frame chair
Constructed in three parts: the back assembly, the front leg assembly
and the seat. The back assembly consists of two vertical back stiles,
joined by a horizontal top rail, back seat rail and foot rail, and completed with a splat. The front leg assembly, made up of the front seat
rail, front legs and side seat rails, is joined to the back assembly to
create a solid frame. A drop-in seat, often covered with leather or
fabric, is set into the frame and secured by screws through the corner
blocks. A cane or rush seat may instead be woven around the seat
frame. Sturdy frame dining chairs often have mortise-and-tenon joints:
many modern, less expensive models have dowel joints.

rail

Stabilizes the

back and

unites the stiles

Stiles

Form the chair back. Often

loosen at the seat joint.
Seat
Set into the frame formed by the
seat rails: may be screwed in
place through the corner blocks.

Top

rail

Unites the back stiles and

stabilizes the chair back

Seat
Often contoured for
comfort. Holes are
drilled into the top for
the back stiles
into the

and

underside

for

Back

the legs.

stile

Main part

of the chair

back: continuous piece

of wood forms both

back and back

leg.

Corner block
Strengthens seat rail
and secures a

joints

drop-in seat.

Foot

rail

Stabilizes

and

supports the legs.

Dowel

joints

may be

locked in place by a
concealed fastener
(page 123).

Glide
Plastic, nylon or steel
button tacked or
screwed to the leg to
protect the floor.

Platform chair
Its three main components are the back, legs
seat. The back is formed by stiles that fit

Form a frame for the

chair seat: mortised into
the legs and stiles The
back seat rail unites the
stiles and stabilizes the
chair back

and

into the seat and top rail.

the underside of the seat

The

legs are joined to

and supported by foot

between them. The chair seat forms
the link between the back and legs: since the
back and legs are not directly connected, repair
to one does not call for disassembly of the other.
rails that

run

Front leg
Attached to front and
side seat

rails

with

mortise-and-tenon joints

Foot

rail

Supports and
stabilizes the legs

13

CHAIRS

TIGHTENING A LOOSE FOOT RAIL

Separating the joint. Examine the chair

tener that locks the
of

the

joint.

wood

putty.

gently pull

shop

knife,

joint

Remove

Set the chair on

joint,

(step

it

If

in

end

or patch

a fastener (page 123) before separating

side.

If

it

there

will

is

not

much movement

in

the

go, scrape out dried glue with a

white or yellow glue (page 121) and clamp the

the joint has a

To separate a stubborn
of the leg with

its

leg for signs of a fas-

look for a nail hole, dowel

apart as far as

then work
3).

joint;

joint,

lot

of

movement, separate

it

completely.

hold the chair securely and tap the inside

a rubber mallet (above), then go to step

2.

Cleaning and regluing the joint. Use a shop knife or coarse

sandpaper to scrape away dried glue, taking care not to whittle
the wood. A gouge (page 113) is especially useful for cleaning a
hard-to-reach dowel hole. With a rubber mallet, tap the joint together to
see if is tight, then tap it apart again. Build up a slightly loose joint by
wrapping the dowel with a glue-soaked cloth (page 121). Tighten a
very loose joint by wedging the dowel (page 15). Spread a thin layer of
white or yellow glue on any uncoated gluing surfaces (above), then fit
the dowel into the hole, tapping lightly on the outside of the leg with a
it

rubber mallet to seat

it

completely.

Clamping the

joint. Set the chair

upright, with

legs sitting squarely

all

on a flat surface. Wrap a web clamp

around the two opposite legs, as shown.
Tighten the clamp only enough to close the
joint

and bring the gluing surfaces

in

contact.

you don't have a web clamp, use a piece

of heavy cord to fashion a tourniquet clamp
(page 123). Wipe away excess glue with a
clean, damp cloth. Wait 24 hours for the glue
If

to set,

14

then release the clamp.

CHAIRS

REGLUING THE BACK OF A PLATFORM CHAIR

Shop

knife

^f^

J^^

^^-^
^^^T^^^^ ^^^
5

Separating the back from the seat. For a strong

repair to a

loose back, separate the back from the seat completely and

its side and secure the seat

cardboard or wood. To loosen a stile,
pull
firmly while tapping the seat at the stile joint with a rubber mallet
(above). Continue in this manner until all the stiles are separated from

reglue

in

all

the joints. Set the chair on

vise, protecting

its

^^*"'^

finish with

it

the seat.

Cleaning the gluing surfaces. Scrape dried glue from the

dowels and holes with a shop knife (above), taking care not to
remove any wood. Use a gouge (page 1 13) to clean out the
dowel holes. Fit the joints together to see they are tight. If the joints
fit snugly, separate them again and go to step 4. Build up a slightly
loose dowel by wrapping
with a glue-soaked cloth (page 121).
Tighten a very loose joint by wedging the dowel (step 3).
if

it

Enlarging a dowel. Remove the

place a block of

wood

stile

against the top

from the top

rail

rail:

next to the

While a helper holds the

stile,

and tap the block

stile,

with a

ham-

loosen the stile from the rail. Secure the stile in a vise, protecting its finish with
cardboard or cork. With a backsaw, cut a slot down the center of the dowel (above, left), stopping about two thirds of the way into the dowel. Use the backsaw to cut a hardwood wedge
slightly longer and wider than the slot. Tap the wedge gently into the slot witn a rubber mallet

mer

until

to

the dowel widens slightly (above,

right).

Saw

the

wedge

flush with the dowel, then

smooth. Spread a thin layer of white or yellow glue on the dowel that
its hole, then tap the stile back into the top rail with the mallet.

fits

sand
and

into the top rail

it

in

15

CHAIRS

REGLUING THE BACK OF A PLATFORM CHAIR

(continued)

Installing the back. Spread a layer of white or yellow glue on

the dowels

and

along the top

the holes, then

in

each

fit

stile into its

hole.

Tap

with the mallet to seat the dowels.

rail

Clamping the

repair. Slip a pipe clamp onto the chair, posione jaw on the top rail and the other under the seat.
Insert pads of wood or cork to protect the finish. Tighten the
clamp only enough to close the joints and bring the gluing surfaces
together (above). Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth.
Wait 24 hours for the glue to set, then release the clamp.
tioning

REGLUING THE BACK OF A FRAME CHAIR

Jff\
j

^^~

"^

~7\\~&~

^^vV\\\
/ \\\ \\\
^>

ro/

Foot
rai1

vPvT//

\\

y-\

>

i\

Back

/^f^^^t

corner
block

'

mM
^^

V
1

rail

^/v^

ko\

Seat
yy\ / /

-<(_^U__^vs^

ml

Releasing the bade

he stress exerted on a frame
rail.
often loosens the joints connecting the seat rails to the
back stiles To make a strong repair, separate the back from the
seat and reglue the joints Set the chair on its side on a work surface.

then tap the foot

Examine the

other side

ll

fasteners that lock the |Oints; look

stiles for

dowel ends or patches

of

wood

ner block to the back

putty

iomove

before
se.it rail

the front corner blocks

for nail holes,

Remove any

fastener (page 123)

the screw holding each back cor'.

not necessary to

unscrew

Separating the hack from the seat. Secure the seat in a vise
padded with cardboard. With a rubber mallet, tap on the lower
back

stile

near the seat joint until the joint separates (above).

rail loose from the back stile. Secure the chair on its

and repeat the procedure to knock apart the other seat joint
and foot rail joint. Lift off the back and place on a work surface.
Scrape dried glue out of the joints with a shop knife, then tap the joints
together to see
they are tight.
the joints fit snugly, separate them
again and go to step 4. Build up a slightly loose joint with a gluesoaked cloth (page 121). Tighten a very loose joint by wedging the
it

if

tenon (step

16

^o.

stile

3).

If

CHAIRS

REGLUING THE BACK OF A FRAME CHAIR

(continued)

Enlarging a tenon. One way to rebuild a tenon is by pressing shims of adhesive-backed

hardwood veneer on the sides of the tenon, then sanding the shims to make a good fit. To
wedge a tenon, use a backsaw to cut two parallel slots across the tenon, stopping about
two thirds of the way into the tenon each time (above, left). Use the backsaw to cut two hardwood
wedges slightly longer and wider than the slots. Tap each wedge gently into a slot until the tenon
widens slightly (above, right), then saw each wedge flush with the tenon and sand
smooth.
it

Reassembling the chair. Spread a

glue on

all

surface,

fit

thin layer of white or yellow

the gluing surfaces. Set the chair back on the work

the seat and foot rails into the back stiles and tap the

together with a rubber mallet, as shown.

securely to the seat rail.

joints

Screw the corner blocks

Clamping the

chair.

Set the chair upright, with

all

legs rest-

on a flat surface. Wrap one web clamp around the

seat rails and another around the legs where the foot rails join
the back stiles. Tighten the clamps only enough to close the joints and
you do not have web clamps, make
bring together the gluing surfaces.
tourniquet clamps (page 123). Wipe away excess giue with a clean,
damp cloth. Release the clamps after 24 hours.
ing squarely

If

17

CHAIRS

REGLUING THE LEGS OF A PLATFORM CHAIR

Separating the legs from the seat. To help you reassemble

mark the front legs with masking tape. Examine the
top of the seat for wood wedges that lock the leg dowels in
place. Drill out any wedges before separating the legs from the seat.
Try to pull the legs free of the seat by hand.
they do not come out
of the seat easily, secure a leg in a vise, protecting its finish then use
a rubber mallet to knock on the bottom of the seat near the joint to
loosen the leg slightly. Loosen all stubborn legs alternately, repositioning the chair in the vise and tapping near the leg (above). Then pull out
the legs and foot rails as a unit.
the joints between the foot rails and
the legs are loose, mark their positions with tape, then remove and
reglue them (page 14), reassembling the foot rails and legs first, then
the chair,

If

If

refitting

Refitting the legs to the seat. With a shop knife or coarse

sandpaper, scrape dried glue from the gluing surfaces. Place the
chair upside down on a work surface and fit the legs into the
seat, inserting the marked legs in the front. With a rubber mallet, tap
the joints together to see if they are tight (above), then remove them.
Build up a slightly loose joint by wrapping the dowel with a glue-soaked
cloth (page 121); tighten a very loose joint by wedging the dowel (page
15). Spread a thin layer of white or yellow glue on the dowels and in
the holes, then fit each leg into its hole again, tapping on the end of
the leg

lightly

with the mallet to seat the dowel.

the legs to the seat.

Securing the joints. Remove the

masking tape from the front legs. Set
the chair upright with

squarely on a

flat

or other weights

all

legs sitting

surface. Place heavy books

on the seat

chair legs into their holes

to

(left).

excess glue with a clean, damp

the glue to set for 24 hours.

18

press the

Wipe away
cloth.

Allow

CHAIRS

REGLUING LOOSE FRONT LEGS ON A FRAME CHAIR

Releasing the corner blocks. Set the chair on its back on a

work surface. Examine the legs for fasteners that lock the joints;
look for nail holes, dowel ends or patches of wood putty.
Remove any fasteners (page 123) before separating the legs from the
side seat rails. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding each
front corner block to the front seat rail (above). It is not necessary to
remove the blocks from the side seat rails.

Separating the legs from the chair. Work slowly and carefully
damaging the chair. Holding the side seat rail securely
with one hand, tap on the inside of the leg with a rubber mallet
to release the leg from the rail (above). Then hold the foot rail and tap
the leg at the foot rail joint until
separates. Repeat the procedure for
the other front leg. Lift away the front legs and front seat rail. If the joint
between a leg and the front seat rail is also loose, anchor the seat rail
to avoid

it

with your foot and, with the rubber mallet, tap the joint apart.

Ml
_____-

~^^-"^
***-

-<-*^*^k

it \

'

jj 1

'

7<

u/^^=
XJ>^

thin layer of white or yellow glue on the gluonto the seat and foot rails and tap them in
with the mallet. Screw the corner blocks securely to the front seat rail.

tenon (page

17).

Spread a

ing surfaces. Fit the legs

clamp

^-C___

Web
Refitting the legs. With a shop knife or coarse sandpaper,
scrape dried glue from the gluing surfaces, taking care not to
remove any wood. Tap the legs onto the seat and foot rails with
the rubber mallet to see if the joints are tight (above), then take them
apart. Build up a slightly loose joint by wrapping the tenon with a gluesoaked cloth (page 121). Tighten a very loose joint by wedging the

Web

clamp

\\

/
Clamping the
squarely on a

joints.

flat

Set the chair upright, with

surface.

all

Wrap a web clamp around

legs resting
the seat

and another around the legs where the foot rails join them.
Tighten the clamps only enough to close the joints and bring together
tne gluing surfaces (above). If you do not have web clamps, make
tourniquet clamps (page 123). Wipe away excess glue with a clean,
damp cloth. Release the clamps after 24 hours.
rails

19

CHAIRS

LEVELING THE LEGS

Sanding down or building up. Over the years, the wood in a chair may swell and shrink, or
wear unevenly, causing an annoying wobble. A wobble may also result from careless regluing.
The legs that the
To identify the uneven legs, set the chair on a flat work surface and rock
rocks are the long ones; mark them with masking tape. Turn the chair upside
chair rests on as
down.
there are no glides on the bottoms of the legs, lightly sand down the two marked legs
with a sanding block (above, left), setting the chair upright frequently to check the wobble.
there are glides on the chair legs, check to see that all four are in place. If a glide is missing
the entire set is
or worn, pry up the remaining glides with a screwdriver and install a new set.
still intact, you can sometimes build up the short legs by prying up the glides on those legs and
inserting washers between the glides and the leg bottoms (above, right).
it.

it

If

If

If

REPAIRING SPLITS

y^
/'

y=St

m
Pads

^^^^^^

\^I

-A

\
'

/7L

"*^\hI

Toothpick
Foo!

...

C clamp
Splinting a broken splat. Gently separate
split and apply white or yellow glue with
a toothpick. Align the broken sections and
press them together by hand. Wipe away
the

Gluing

a long split. lo rejoin a long lagged split

in a leg. foot rail or back stile, gently separate

and work white or yellow glue into with a toothpick (above, left). Press together the
split pieces and wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth Wrap the glued area with
from '.ticking, then tighten a C clamp around the split |ust enough to
dr.iw
toqethru
tfl wood or cork pads to protect the finish Allow 24 hours for
the glue to set. then release the clamp

the

split

it

20

it

excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. To

make a splint, place waxed paper and a flat
piece of wood across the break on each side,
and secure them with a pair of C clamps
(above). If the splat is slightly curved, use
1/8-inch hardboard as a splint Wait 24 hours
for the glue to set before removing the splint.
To refinish the damaged area, see page 84.

CHAIRS

REJOINING A CLEAN FRACTURE

Drilling a dowel hole. To repair a

clean break across a

leg, foot rail or

back stile, separate the part from the

chair and insert a dowel to rejoin the two
pieces. Use a rubber mallet to knock apart
the joints holding the broken part, in this case
a back stile, to the chair. Secure one piece of
the broken stile in a vise, protecting its finish
with cardboard or cork. Use an awl to punch
a starting point in the center of the stile. Fit a
power drill with a bit that matches the size of
the dowel you will use (a 1/4-inch dowel for
narrow pieces, a 3/8-inch dowel for wide
pieces). Wrap masking tape around the drill
bit 7/8 inch from the end and bore a dowel
hole straight into the center of the

stile,

stop-

when the masking tape touches the

wood. Remove the broken piece from the
ping

and secure the other piece in the vise.

To make sure the two pieces will fit together
vise

properly, insert a

dowel center (page 124)

into the drilled hole, align the

pieces

in

proper

each other (inset) and press them

together. The dowel center will mark a startrelation to

ing point in the undrilled piece.

Using the

mark as a guide, drill a matching dowel hole

in the second piece (left).

^Rubber

if

(//

/
l

/
\

mallet

/'

fj

Dowel

j-^

\\

^"""^

^,
repair. Remove the stile from the vise. Place
a pipe clamp padded with wood or cardboard and
tighten the clamp just enough to bring the broken ends together
(above). Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. Let the glue
set for 24 hours before releasing the clamp. Reinstall the part as
described in this chapter.

Clamping the

rdfs^~
f^ELsC
\\

Inserting the dowel. Cut a dowel 1 1/2 inch long and bevel
both ends slightly with coarse sandpaper. To allow excess glue
and air to escape as the dowel is forced into the hole, score the
dowel by drawing it through the serrated jaws of pliers. Spread white or
yellow glue on the dowel and in the new holes in the stile, then, with
the rubber mallet, tap the dowel into the hole in one piece of the stile.
(Align the other piece of the stile over the dowel, matching the broken
edges, and tap the second piece onto the dowel (above).

the

stile in

21

CHAIRS

MENDING A BROKEN ROCKER

4^/^

^if

g/
:/ Masking

/ah

/ft -=:)

->

^~1~
s
\
\

-?J

^^

^^fl
,^fl ^^^

fe*M ^^

yffi
v

tape

Drill

bit

~^~r
\

\s/

11

iluiii"

in

and clamping the broken rocker. Wood that is cut

may break along the grain. To repair a broken rocker,
rocking chair face down on the floor and gently scrape

a curve

lay the

the break clean with a

shop

knife.

Spread a

thin layer of

white or yel-

low glue inside the break, then press the sections together by hand

and wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. To make a splint,
place waxed paper and a thin, flat piece of wood along the top and
bottom edges of the rocker on each side of the break, and secure
them with a pair of C clamps (above). Allow the glue to set for three
to four hours, then release the clamps and splint and go to step 2 to

Drilling a dowel hole. To determine the depth of the dowel

measure along the side of the rocker; the dowel will be

hole,

inserted from the bottom of the rocker, through the break and
two thirds of the way into the rocker. Mark the hole position with an
awl. Fit a power drill with a bit the same size as the dowel (1/4 to 3/8
inch in diameter) and wrap masking tape around the bit to indicate the
depth of the hole. Brace the chair against a wall and drill a hole at the
mark (above), stopping when the tape touches the rocker.

reinforce the rocker.

J(f~

(ff // / \
u,J/A

Coping saw

Inserting the

i///

dowel Cut

a dowel 1 inch longer than the depth of the hole and bevel
coarse sandpaper Draw the dowel through the |aws of pliers to
will allow excess glue and air to escape as the dowel is forced into

one end

slightly with

score

sides; this

its

^\

the hole Spread a thin layer of white or yellow glue on the dowel

and in the hole. Set the

beveled end of the dowel in the hole and tap
in with a rubber mallet (above, left). Wipe away
excess glue with a clean, damp cloth Let the glue set for 24 hours With a coping saw. cut the
dowel Ruth wilh the surface of the rocker (above, right) Use medium-grit, then fine sandpaper
it

to

sand the dowel smooth

22

CHAIRS

RESHAPING SPLIT BENTWOOD

Softening the wood. To repair bentthat has dried and split at the
curve, recurve the split area before
regluing it. Heat and moisture, used to shape
the bentwood piece during construction, can
be used to remedy the split. With a shop knife,
carefully scrape clean the interior surface of
the split, taking care not to cut or break the
wood. To make the split wood pliable, wrap
a damp cloth around the area, then steam the
wood (left) by applying a hot steam iron to the
cloth on all sides. Steam the split for 1 5 minutes, wetting the cloth as
dries.

wood

it

Unwrap the cloth and press the split wood

To hold the pliable wood in shape, position an
automotive hose clamp at each end of the split and tighten the
clamps with a screwdriver (above), alternating from one to the other.
Do not tighten the clamps so much that their edges cut into the wood.
Closing the

split.

against the curve.

Allow 24 hours for the

wood

to dry,

then release the clamps.

Making
work

in

it stick. Ease open the split and. using a toothpick,

white or yellow glue (above), covering the interior sur-

faces. Press the split together again

with a clean,
it,

damp

as described

in

cloth.

If

the

split

and wipe away excess glue

waxed paper and reclamp
set for 24 hours, then

with

2. Allow the glue to

necessary, refinish the

step

release the clamps.

Wrap

damaged area (page

84).

23

CHAIRS

REJOINING A SPLIT SEAT

Pipe clamps

-4 fV

A\

fe^

A\

\\y ll

r\M

^^^iL.
\

\\
\ \

typ-wi^^^V

M^55\ \

^
1

1/

Gluing and clamping the seat. To repair a small split in the

first try to draw the split together with clamps. Place pipe
clamps across the seat (above), inserting pads of wood or cork
Tighten the clamps gradually, taking care not to

put pressure on another part of the chair.

If

seat,

to protect the finish.

the

split,

release them and go to step 2 to

the clamps close the

split,

release them

the clamps do not close

remove and reglue the seat.

If

slightly, inject or

press

in

white or yellow glue with a toothpick or glue syringe (page 121), then

Wipe away excess glue

retighten the clamps.

Allow 24 hours

for

Ml

^l
\

damp

cloth.

^^^^

release the clamj

24

seat.

its side and secure the

cardboard or cork. With a
loosen the back stiles (page 15,

Set the chair on

a vise, protecting

its

finish with

rubber mallet, tap on the seat to

aside. Next, mark the front legs

then lift off the back and set
masking tape. Examine the top of the seat for a wood wedge that
locks each leg in place; drill out any wedges before separating the legs
from the seat. Reposition the chair so that one leg is secured in the
vise. Knock on the bottom of the seat near the joint to loosen the leg
slightly. To keep from twisting the foot-rail frame, loosen all four legs
alternately, repositioning the chair in the vise and tapping near each
leg so that they loosen together gradually (above). Pull out the legs
and foot rails as a unit and set them aside.

step

1),

it

with

-^^a^fllflK

R^

Seal underside

\\

H^^^"^-^

IWBP^^
rs^ca

^-v

Seat top

Gluing and clamping the Mat Remove the seat from the vise
and separate at the split with your hands or tap apart with
the rubber mallet Spread a thin coat of white or yellow glue
along the broken edge of each section (above, top), then press the
togathar, Clamp the joint with two pipe clamps, inserting wood
or cork pads to protect the finish Tighten the clamps only enough to
bring together the gluing .urt.ic.es (above, bottom) Wipe away excess
glue with a clean,

in

y
Y/- 7^"V-^

^-^
\

with a clean,

the glue to set. then release the clamps.

Detaching the
seat

it

damp

scrape

it

cloth

Wait 24 hours

for the

glue to set, then

Reassembling the chair. Use a shop knife to clean the doweled ends of the legs and the dowel holes. Take care not to

and

in

off

any wood. Spread a

thin layer of glue

on the dowels

the holes, then use the mallet to tap the legs into the seat, plac-

ing the marked legs in the sockets at the front of the seat. Remove the
masking tape from the legs. Set the chair upright Apply a coat of glue
to the back stiles and holes and tap the back stiles into the seat.
Secure the back to the seat with pipe clamps (page 122). inserting
pads of wood or cork to protect the finish, and set heavy objects such
as books on the seat (above). Wipe away excess glue with a clean,
damp cloth. Wait 24 hours, then remove the clamps and weights.

CHAIRS

RECOVERING A DROP-IN SEAT

Taking

off the old cover.

If

a fabric dust cover

an old screwdriver and take

off

the seat

down on a work

from the frame. Set

surface.

If

the chair upside

there are corner blocks under the

frame by removing the center

screw from each corner block (above). Set the chair on its side and
push on the seat bottom to pop out of the frame.
seat, release the seat from the

Buy new seat cover

the cover.

Buy replacement
aged.

tacked or

the dust cover. Next, pry out any

tacks or staples holding the seat cover

Removing

is

stapled to the underside of the seat, pry out the fasteners with

If

in

place (above), and remove

fabric slightly larger than the old cover.

fabric for a dust

the seat's foam cushion

cover if the old one

worn, replace it.

is

worn

or

dam-

is

it

Cutting the seat cover to shape. Lay the new cover fabric
down on a flat work surface. If the old seat cover is very
creased, iron
Lay the old cover face down over the new cover
and attach the two pieces with tape they are vinyl or leather, and with
pins if they are cloth. Trace the outline of the old cover on the new
cover with a pencil (above) or tailor's chalk. Remove the old cover and
face

it.

if

new cover along the outline. Use a utility

leather. Cut a new dust cover the same way.

use strong scissors to cut the

knife to cut

heavy

vinyl or

Attaching the new cover. Set the new

clean work surface, and lay the seat on
fabric

each side
and tack

seat, pulling

it

tight,

Turn over the seat and check

down on a

top down. Fold the

and hammer

to hold the fabric temporarily. Pleat the

it.

if

up around the

fabric face

it.

cover

in

at the

for wrinkles in the

tacks at

corners

new

cover;

remove the tack nearest the wrinkle, pull the cover

the tack back in. Cut away excess material from bulky

there are any,

tight

and

drive

in all the tacks. With a staple gun. secure the

cover to the back of the seat, stapling at 1 -inch intervals (above) Fold
under the edges of the dust cover 1/2 inch to conceal the raw edge,
then staple the dust cover on the back of the seat. Fit the seat into the
chair frame and screw it to the corner blocks.

corner pleats. Drive

25

CHAIRS

REPLACING A PREWOVEN CANE SEAT

Removing the damaged seat. To remove a damaged prewoven seat, first cut a large X across the cane with strong scissors. Prewoven cane is held in place by a spline, a cane strip
glued into a groove around the perimeter of the seat. Run a utility
around the outside and inside edges of the spline to loosen it,
then locate where the ends of the spline meet, usually at the rear of
the seat. Pry out one end with a screwdriver (above). Work along the
spline, forcing
out gradually, taking care not to damage the wood.
Pull out each section of the seat, then use the screwdriver or a shop
knife to scrape dried glue out of the spline groove. Measure the diameter of the seat frame and the circumference of the groove and buy
replacement prewoven cane and spline at a craft supply store. Also
buy or make five wood wedges about 4 inches long and the same
thickness as the spline, for pressing the cane into the groove.
knife

it

Making a

pattern. Set a piece of heavy paper over the seat

in the chair seat with
producing an indentation- of the groove in the paper
the paper from the chair and draw an outline, adding

frame. Press the paper into the groove

your finger,

Remove

(above).

2 inches around the indentation. Cut out the pattern along the line. Set
the cane on a flat work surface with the lines of the holes running
straight from back to front and side to side. Lay the paper pattern over
it

and tape

pattern.

water

down, then, with strong scissors, cut the cane around the
in a bathtub or flat pan of warm
15 to 20 minutes or until
is pliable.
it

Soak the replacement cane

for

it

4
new

the cane from the water and shake off the excess. Lay the
edges extending equally over the frame and the lines of holes
running straight from front to back and side to side. Use a rubber mallet to tap a wood
wedge into the groove at the back of the seat, anchoring the cane. Leave the wedge in place.
Tap a second wedge into the cane at the front of the seat, drawing the cane across the seat.
Repeat the procedure at each side of the seat
the cane begins to dry. soak the underside
with
wet sponge Once the cane is anchored in four places, use a fifth wedge to force the
cane into the groove all around, tapping the wedge with the mallet (above, left) Pull out the
wedges, then set the cutting edge of a wood chisel against the cane in the groove and tap
the chir.nl with the mallet to trim off the excess cane (above, right).

Kitting

tin-

cane on the

sc;it.

ift

seat, with the

If

Set the

spline.

the groove to test

in

use a

utility

its

strip of

fit,

then

knife to cut the spline

inch longer than the groove.

(If

the seat

is

square, cut four pieces of spline and angle

the

ends so

that they butt against

at the corners.)

15 minutes

bead

to

Soak

make

it

the spline

supple.

of white glue into the

each other

in

water

for

Squeeze a

groove,

Starting at the rear of the seat,

all

around.

use the rub-

ber mallet to tap the end of the spline into the

groove. Continue around the rim (above). Cut
the loose spline

end

to

fit

against the other

Wipe away excess glue with

damp cloth. Allow the cane and glue

end and tap

a clean,

it

to set at least

26

new

Inserting
spline

in.

24 hours.

CHAIRS

RECANING A SEAT

~v"\

*\

/^f\^
Aw

\i/
VJ

III\
III

\/

~~~

/ s

// / /

//

\\(l

/ /
/ /

//

"^^1
T-^.-^.
:=

u
\
\

Pull a strand from the bundle

a clothespin. Soak the coil in

of

cane,

roll

warm water

it

into

for

15

a
to

and secure with

20 minutes. Use pegs

coil

it

mark the center holes at the front and back of the seat. Pull the coil of
cane from the water and put in a second coil; put in a new coil every
time you take one out. Run the cane through your fingers. In one directo

^"v ^\ \ ^^^jl

^^\ ^

"^-A / Mi
P~~-~-Jl3^
1

^5

~~"

first set

damaged cane from

the seat, binder cane to finish the seat and two dozen pegs to hold the
strands in place while you work. Golf tees can be used in place of pegs.

^-JlJ^"^"^

i~~~-~-^\

//// //
II

rows

////

// //

Vertical

/ / S*

//

/ /

1/

"~~

J r

of vertical rows. With strong scissors, cut

the chair frame. Use a small screwdriver
to clean dirt and old cane out of every hole. Measure the diameter
of the cane holes and the distance from the center of one hole to the
center of the hole beside it. Take these measurements and a piece of
old cane to a craft or cane supply store. Buy enough cane to reweave

rz.

f~-~

WW
\y\

Laying the

the

^x\
^^Jy

///a
/////
/M //J

oi

iHv

II

//

tion,

it

will feel

p^y of

1 l I

I'll

1 l 1

ft/////
Cane

of

f^^

II

If
If

If

cane

smooth,

in

the other direction,

it

will feel

rough; always

the smooth direction.

To begin caning, remove the back

peg, feed 4 inches of cane through the hole, shiny side up, and anchor
with the peg. Run the cane to the peg at the front of the seat, remove
the peg and push all the cane through the hole. Thread the cane up
pull the

in

through the hole to the

of the seat.

When

right,

it

then to the corresponding hole at the back

of a strand, anchor it with a peg,

you near the end

then peg a new strand in the same hole. Pull the cane straight but not
taut, since it will shrink as it dries. Complete the right half of the seat
with parallel strands (left), pegging the cane in the last hole. Return to
the back center peg, insert 4 inches of a
left

Laying the

first set

of horizontal rows. For the side-to-side

rows, start at the back of the chair. Insert 4 inches of cane into
the side hole beside the right rear corner hole and peg the hole

anchor the cane. Run the cane, shiny side up, across the vertical
rows to the corresponding hole on the opposite side without weaving it;
leave some slack in the cane. Push the cane down through the hole,
then thread it up through the next hole and run it across the seat to the
matching hole on the other side. Continue laying side-to-side parallel
rows (above), pegging in new strands where needed. Repeat the procedure for the rest of the holes in the sides of the chair and peg the
cane at the last hole. Tie off the cane ends that have accumulated
under the seat: Turn the chair upside down, moisten the loose ends
to

of
of

cane
cane

and complete the

left

half of the

new strand into

same way.

the hole to

its

seat the

Laying the second set of vertical rows. Starting at the back

center hole once again, remove the peg, insert 4 inches of cane,
shiny side up, slightly to the right of the first vertical cane and

repeg. Run the second vertical row right next to the first vertical row
and over the horizontal rows, without weaving
Continue running the
second vertical rows alongside the first vertical rows (above), starting
new strands when necessary. Peg the cane at the last hole. Return to
the back center peg, insert 4 inches of a new strand into the hole at its
left, and complete the left half of the seat the same way. When several
ends of cane have accumulated under the seat, tie them off (step 2).
it.

and twist each one twice around the nearest loop

between two holes (inset).

for pliability,

that runs

27

CHAIRS

RECANING A SEAT

(continued)

Weaving the second set of horizontal rows. This is where the

weaving begins. Starting at the side hole beside the right rear corner hole (where the first horizontal row was started) insert 4 inches
then weave the strip over the first vertical
of cane shiny side up, peg
row and under the second. Continue the over-and-under weave, taking
care not to twist the cane. Stop about one third of the way across the
seat to pull the strip through (left). Continue weaving until you reach the
other side of the chair. Feed the cane down through the opposite hole,
Weave the cane over and under the
then up through the hole beside
vertical rows to the other side of the chair. Continue the horizontal weaving, finishing at the front of the chair. Peg in new strands where necessary; when several ends of cane have accumulated under the seat, tie
them off. With an awl, gently align the horizontal and vertical pairs of
canes into straight, neat rows.
it,

it.

Weaving two

diagonal rows. To create a guideline for

masking tape across
the seat corner to corner. Feed 4 inches of cane into the right rear
with a peg, then stretch the cane across the
corner hole and anchor
the

first

sets of

set of diagonal rows, lay a strip of

it

seat to confirm that

its

intended route leads straight to the opposite cor-

does not, adjust the tape. Weave the diagonal cane over
and under each horizontal pair until reaches the front
left corner hole and pull
straight (left). Feed the cane down the hole,
then back up the same hole, leaving a loop of cane in the hole, and peg
the cane. Remove the masking tape. Continue weaving back and forth,
filling in the back half of the chair seat. On an irregularly shaped chair,
you may find
necessary to skip or double in some holes to keep the
diagonal rows straight and parallel. Weave the front half of the seat,
starting next to the right rear and left front corner holes. Tie off the
cane ends under the seat.
To weave the second set of diagonal rows, lay masking tape from the
left rear corner to the front right corner as you did for the first set of diagonal rows. Peg a strand of cane into the left rear corner hole and weave
the second set of diagonal rows the same way as the first set, completing the back half of the seat first. This time, weave the cane under the
vertical pairs and over the horizontal pairs (inset). Then starting at the
holes beside the corner holes, weave the second set of diagonal rows
ner hole.

each

If

it

vertical pair

it

it

it

into the front half of the seat.

Laying the binder cane. Binder cane, wider than weaving cane,
covers the holes for a finishing touch. Measure the front, back and
sides of the seat along the holes and add 8 inches to each measurement. Cut a strip of binder cane to each of these measurements. Soak
cane and four strands of weaving cane for 15 to 20 minutes.
Lay a binder cane over the holes along one side of the seat, feed each
end into a corner hole and peg it. To lace down the binder cane, tie off a
strand of weaving cane under the seat at the back corner hole. Draw the
weaving cane up through the first hole covered by the binder cane, loop
over the binder cane, then feed
back down through the same hole.
Pull the weaving cane snug, then thread
up through the next hole.
Repeat the procedure (left) until the binder cane is secured to the seat,
then tie the end of the weaving cane under the seat. Continue in the
same manner for the remaining three sides. Glue the pegs into the corner holes and use a utility knife to cut them off flush with the seat. Sand
the pegs smooth, then cut off the ends of the binder cane under the seat.
the binder

it

it

it

28

CHAIRS

REWEAVING A RUSH SEAT

Cleaning away the damaged seat.

Use a utility knife to cut the damaged
rush from the seat frame (above).

Remove any

tacks on the seat

rails

with pliers

Examine the chair for loose

and reglue them necessary. Buy fiber
rush, a durable twisted paper that resembles
real rush but is easier to work with, at a craft-

or a nail puller.
joints

if

supply store. Fiber rush

comes

in

four sizes

and several colors. A two- to three-pound coil

should be enough to reweave a chair seat.

Squaring off the corners.

have

to

fill

in

Measure the

If

the front

rail

the front corners with rush to

and back

of the seat

make

is

wider than the back

rail,

you

will

the seat square before starting to weave.

Subtract the length of the back

rail from the length of the

from each end. If, as in this
case, the difference is 2 inches, draw a pencil line on the front rail 1 inch from each corner. Tack
one end of a 3- or 4-foot cord of fiber rush to the inside of the left side rail, about 2 inches from
the front rail. Feed the rush cord under the front rail, loop it over the front rail, then loop it under
and over the left side rail (above). Next, pull the rush across the seat to the right side rail (inset).
Pass the cord under the right rail, loop it over the right rail, then loop it under and over the front

front

rail.

rail,

front

rails.

halve the difference and mark the front

Tack the cord

the inside of the

to the inside of the right

left rail

behind the

first

rail

rail

that distance

in

and cut away the excess. Tack a new cord on

cord, then repeat the procedure until you reach the

pencil marks.

^^y^SrffjL,

^>

H^^^P^l
3

Completing a

circuit. Cut a 20-foot cord of fiber rush. Roll

around a cardboard form. Tack the end of the cord
on the left side rail, just behind the last squaring-off cord. Duplicating the pattern produced in the squaring-off procedure, draw the
cord under and over the front rail, under and over the left side rail and
across the seat to the right side rail. Next, weave it under and over the
into

it

coil or

rail and under and over the front rail, then continue to the
Pass the cord under and over the back rail, then under and
over the right side rail. Proceed across the seat to the left side rail,
then pass the cord under and over the left side rail, then under and
over the back rail and return to the front left corner (above). Start a

right

side

back

rail.

new

circuit with

the

same

cord;

when

the cord runs out, knot a new

in a spot where it will not show.

piece onto the old, positioning the knot

31
^
i

Finishing the seat. Continue weaving circuits, stopping to

press the cords together to keep the angles true. When the seat
is half woven, reinforce the weave by cutting four triangles from
stiff cardboard and fitting them between the upper and lower levels of
cord (inset) at each seat rail. Cut off the points in the center. Resume
weaving until the side rails are completely covered. To fill in the center
strip, pull the cord up through the center of the seat and loop it over
the back rail. Bring it back up through the center, pull it forward and
loop it over the front rail. Pull the cord back up through the center
(above) and over the back

rail

again, forming figure eights.

tack the rush to the underside of the back

rail

or

tie

it

off

To

finish,

underneath.

29

TABLES
A

standard, strong

top, the

wood

apron and the

horizontal

wood

countersunk
the apron

table consists of three

legs.

The top

is

main

deep,

parts: the

is

wood

joint, either

split,

to

cut the

top apart

mortise-and-tenon

have aprons, the legs are screwed or glued to the top. Two of
the tables pictured at right have expandable tops. The dropleaf table has one or two flaps; each is hinged to the top and

sound

supported from underneath. The extension table slides apart,

allowing for the addition of one or more center leaves.
A table's surface reveals the use and abuse it receives.

To

and clamping the table top

39).

or dowel (page 123), or by a corner brace and hanger bolt

(page 120). On small coffee tables or end tables that don't

joint

possible; separate only the shaky ones, leaving

if

and

joints that are firm

in glue

at the split and reglue the two pieces together (page

The top should be refinished after the repair.
The stress placed on a table takes its toll at the joints connecting the legs to the apron. Wood joints come unglued and
sockets cut into the leg weaken the wood, causing splits at the
joint. The comer-brace joint, designed for easy disassembly,
wears away the wood where the hanger bolt enters the leg.
Before repairing a wobbly table, check that all screws and
bolts holding it together are tight. Avoid tampering with a

understructure, by metal clips or by screws

pocket holes. In some simple kitchen tables,

glued permanently to the top. Table legs are

in

joined to the apron by a

working

first try

bring the edges together. If this doesn't close the

attached to the apron, a

tight undisturbed.

workshop tools.
which won't mar the wood, to tap pieces
apart and together again. White glue or yellow wood glue will
bond most joints and fill minute cracks. Pipe clamps (page

Most table
Use a rubber

and stains, or to fill a minor crack,

see Repairing Surfaces (page 84). Fluctuations in humidity
cause solid-wood table tops to swell and shrink, resulting in
warpage and cracking. Cracks occur along the grain of a board
or in a joint between boards. Use wood veneer, available at
hardware stores and woodworking supply houses, to fill a
wide split in the edge of a table top. When the split is long and
repair scratches, nicks

repairs require the simplest of

mallet,

122) are especially useful for securing the large surface of a

table top. Before applying the clamps, set the table upright, the

on a completely
weight on the table top.
legs resting squarely

flat

surface,

and place a

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE

Table wobbly

Legs uneven

Level legs as for chair legs

Mortise-and-tenon or dowel

joint

loose

Reglue

Mortise-and-tenon or dowel

joint

broken

Rebuild

Repair

Split in leg at joint

Hanger

Casters do not

Caster

tails

roll

properly

out of leg

Scratches, cracks or gouges

loose (corner-brace

bolt

Pedestal leg

joint

loose

Pedestal leg

joint

broken

Rollers

stiff

Rollers

damaged

joint (p.
joint

(p.

Reglue

Rebuild dowel

Replace

joint (p.

Wear and

Spot repair

tear

33)

HO

HO

124)

(p.

47)

DO

DO
4 7) HO

47)

rollers (p.

Replace caster

(p.

DO

34)

lubricate rollers

Pressure against caster socket has enlarged

caster hole

HO

DO

33)

joint (p.

Clean and

or dirty

DO

(dowel, p. 124: mortise-and-tenon, p. 125)

split (p.

Tighten or reseat hanger bolt

joint)

20)

HO

32)

(p.

finish (p.

84)

DO;

refinish table (p. 96)

in finish

Table edge

split

Long, deep

split in table

top

Wood

shrinkage

Fill

Wood

shrinkage; loosened glue bond

Work glue

split

with

veneer spline

seat (p 24) C

Veneer

lifted or

damaged

Extension mechanism sticks

Extension table pin broken

Drop

leaf

droops when raised

Dryness; aging adhesive

dirt

Sprocket out

of position

Center

leaf

loose

Reglue veneer
veneer (p. 94)

);

(p.

93)

HO

ESTIMATED TIME

30

HO;

glue

down

blister (p.

DO
DO
Replace connecting pin
37) DO
Add wedge to lent support
37) DO
Replace pivot arm (p 37) DO

leaf not properly aligned

(p.

36)

(p.

worn

(p.

arm damaged

Hinge screws loose

Easy H Moderate
Less than 1 hour w

HO

Reposition sprocket (p 36)

Tighten screws, reseat screws (p

Replace hinge (p 38)

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:

38)

120)

DO

Complex
1

to 3

hours

Over

for

a chair

HO

Clean and lubricate

old lubricant

Pivot arm. gateleg or slider support

Pivot

Drop

and

Clogged with

(p.

then draw it together with clamps as

split top completely and rejoin (p 39)

into split,

hours (Does not include drying time)

DO

93)

HO;

patch

lABLh.^

EXTENSION TABLE

Removable center

leaf

When

the two halves of the table are pulled apart, the leaf shown here is inserted
between them to extend the table. In another version, the center leaf has two
halves, hinged together and attached underneath the table top. This hinged center
leaf

can be swung up

into position

and unfolded when the

table top

is slid

apart.

Connecting pins
Hold center

leaf

to table top.

Extension mechanism
Attached to the underside

Top
Made

top;

wood

of solid

boards or veneercovered partlcleboard

or plywood. Two-part
top moves apart on
an extension

made

of

wood

of the table

or metal. Allows

the table to be expanded; center

leaves rest on the mechanism.

mechanism.

Apron

Wood

frame joined

to the legs at the

corners.
rigidity to

and

Adds
the legs

overall table

construction; found

on sturdier tables.

Stem
Central column of the table.

Screwed to a board that is

glued or screwed to the
underside of the table top.

table may have one or

two pedestals, depending
on its size and style.

Mortise-and-tenon joint
Joins the leg and apron. Less
common is the dowel joint (p. 123)

31

TABLES

REGLUING A

WOOD

JOINT

^
^\

a1\^3^ P-T

^"^-

II~L
.

VV\

III

Wood__

ej XLo

iri^r^^'^

IP

\^

block

Top

Q,

Apron

-vl

^f^

Removing

the top. To locate the loose leg on a wobbly table,

look under the table, inspecting the legs and apron for gaps or
splits. If there is a crack around a mortise, you can reglue it
without separating the joint (page 33). To repair any wood joint, first
remove the top. Cover the floor or work surface with an old blanket,
then invert the table on it. Most table tops are fastened to the apron
with screws in metal clips or in angled pocket holes, shown here.
Unscrew the top (above), then lift off the legs and apron and set

them upside down on the

3i

Separating the joint. Examine the area around the joint for a
concealed fastener that locks the joint in place; look for a dowel
or round patch of wood filler at the top of the leg. Remove any
fasteners (page 123) before separating the joint. Try to pull the joint
it does not come apart easily, anchor the apron with
apart by hand;
one foot, set a block of wood squarely against the leg and strike the
block with a hammer (above). Or give the joint a few sharp taps with
a rubber mallet. Take care not to loosen the sound joints.
if

floor.

4Kt'gluing and

louring UM joint Use a shop knife

(above) or coarse sandpaper to clean
the gluing surfaces. Scrape away the
dried glue, taking care not to whittle the
wood Wipe the tenon with a dry cloth and
vacuum all loose debris from the mortise

32

Leg

\J

Apron

\Q

clamping the

joint. With a rubber mallet, tap the joint together to see if

up the tenon or dowel by wrapping with a glue-soaked cloth (page
121) or by wedging the tenon (page 17) or dowel (page 15). Spread a thin layer of white
or yellow glue on the gluing surfaces and push the joint together. Turn the legs and apron upright and set them on a flat surface. Clamp the joint with one or two pipe clamps, inserting pads
of wood or cork under the clamps' jaws to protect the finish. If you use two pipe clamps, distribute pressure evenly by facing the clamps in opposite directions (above). Tighten the clamps just
enough to close the joint and bring the gluing surfaces in contact. Wipe off excess glue with a
clean, damp cloth. Make sure that all four legs rest firmly on the floor. If the table wobbles,
loosen the clamps and retighten them gradually, adjusting the fit of the legs and apron until
the assembly is square Let the table stand for 24 hours, then release the clamps. Turn the
legs and apron upside down, set them in place over the table top and screw on the top.
it

is tight

If

not, build

it

TABLES

REPAIRING A LEG SPLIT AT THE JOINT

C clamp

Pipe clamp

*^
"Lsss***
5

]-=
/_

To"""^

//

~~~~

1ifcJC^^L>

3%.
/

Working glue into the split. Invert the table on an old blanket
and remove the table top as described on page 32. Stand the
legs and apron upright. Gently clean debris out of the split with a
shop knife. Use a toothpick to work white or yellow glue into the split
(above). For a hairline crack, you can use instant glue (page 121),
which is thinner in consistency and will flow more readily into the split.
Be careful not to get any instant glue on your skin or the wood surface.

Clamping the split. Place a pipe clamp from one leg to

another to close the split, inserting pads of wood or cork in its
jaws to protect the finish. Tighten the clamp only enough to bring

the gluing surfaces

in

contact. Next, attach a

C clamp

across the top

the leg to hold the leg together (above), padding the clamp jaws.
off

excess glue with a clean,

damp

cloth. Let the table

stand

for

of

Wipe

24

hours, then release the clamps. Turn the legs and apron upside down,
set

them

in

place over the table top and screw on the top.

TIGHTENING A CORNER-BRACE JOINT

/Wii

^^

Leg

;y
Vise

Removing the leg. The corner-brace joint is secured by a

hanger bolt. One end of the hanger bolt has wood-screw threads
and is screwed into the leg; the other end has machine-screw
threads. This end protrudes through the corner brace and is held tight
by a wing nut or hex nut and washer. When a corner-brace joint is
loose, first try tightening the nut. Tighten a wing nut by hand (above);
tighten a hex nut with locking pliers or a wrench. Wiggle the leg to test
the joint. If the bolt is loose in the leg, you will have to reseat it. Cover
the floor or work surface with an old blanket and invert the table on this
surface. Loosen the nut by hand or with locking pliers or a wrench, and
slip

the leg

and

bolt out of the

corner brace.

'4t*

Secure the detached leg in a

cardboard or cork. Grip the unthreaded center strip of the bolt with locking pliers and unscrew
the bolt. At a hardware or building supply store, buy hardwood dowel
stock with a diameter slightly larger than that of the bolt. Measure the
depth of the bolt hole. Choose a drill bit of the same diameter as the
dowel and use masking tape to mark the bit to the depth of the bolt
hole. Drill the dowel hole (above), carefully following the angle of the
original hole. Stop when the tape touches the leg. Tap wood particles
Drilling a hole for a dowel.

vise, protecting

its

finish with

out of the hole.

33

TABLES

TIGHTENING A CORNER-BRACE JOINT

(continued)

Seating the bolt. Cut the dowel 1 inch longer than the depth of
Use coarse sandpaper to bevel one end of the dowel
slightly, and score the dowel by drawing
through the serrated
jaws of pliers. The striated surface will allow excess glue and air to
escape as the dowel is forced into the hole. Coat the gluing surfaces
with a thin layer of white or yellow glue. Insert the beveled end of the
dowel into the hole and knock in the dowel with a rubber mallet (above,
left). Use a coping saw to trim off the protruding end of the dowel, and
sand flush with the leg. Wait three to four hours for the glue to set,
then, with an awl, punch a starting hole for the drill bit in the center of
the dowel. Choose a drill bit 1/8 inch smaller than the diameter of the
the hole.

it

it

;i

Iomc

Cover the

leg.

On most
common is

the table on this surface

l with dowels; less

floor or work surface with an old blanket, then invert

smaller tables, the legs are connected to the column or
the dovetail joint Try to determine what type of joint

holds the legs to the stem before knocking the leg free. Examine the underside of the pedestal;
the dovetail joint can usually be identified by its shape (inset). Work slowly to separate the leg.
i doweled leg from above and below, as close to the stem as possible

i'

it

34

damaging the dowels (above, left): strike a dovetailed

up out of its groove in the stem (above, right)

out without

leg at the top of the leg so that

it

slides

of the bolt

and use masking tape

to

Bore into the center of the

dowel, stopping when the tape touches the leg. With locking pliers,
in the hole. If the
grasp the bolt at its unthreaded middle and screw
serrated jaws of the pliers threaten to damage the bolt's threads, screw
a hex nut onto the bolt until it reaches the base of the threads, fasten
the pliers onto the nut and screw the bolt into the hole (above, right).
Remove the nut. Release the leg from the vise and position it against
the apron, passing the hanger bolt through the corner brace. Put the
washer on the bolt, then tighten the wing nut or hex nut.

WOBBLY PEDESTAL LEG

REJOINING A

IRiinox mi;

Measure the wood-screw end

mark the drill bit 1/4 inch less than

bolt.

this depth.

it

TABLES

REJOINING A

WOBBLY PEDESTAL LEG

(continued)

2Regluing

the joint. Use a shop knife or coarse sandpaper to clean the gluing surfaces.
Scrape away dried glue, taking care not to whittle the wood. A gouge (above, left) is especially useful for cleaning hard-to-reach areas such as the dowel holes shown here. With
the rubber mallet, tap the joint together to see
is tight. If not, build up a dowel by wrapping
with a glue-soaked cloth (page 121) or by wedging
(page 15). Spread a thin layer of white or
yellow glue on the gluing surfaces of the joint (above, right), then set the leg back in place on
the stem. Tap the leg with the mallet to seat the dowels or dovetail.
if

it

it

it

Clamping the leg. Turn the table

and make sure all legs are

upright

on a completely flat suryou can use a bungee

cord an elastic cord with a hook at each
end to secure a newly glued pedestal joint.
Wrap the cord around the legs, crisscrossing
over the repaired leg (left) and hook the
ends together. For a larger pedestal, on a
dining-room table for example, use a hand
screw and a block of wood to secure the
joint (inset). Wipe off excess glue with a
clean, damp cloth and let the table stand for
24 hours before releasing the cord or clamp.
sitting firmly

face.

On

a small

table,

it

35

TABLES

SERVICING A

WOOD

EXTENSION MECHANISM
Lubricating

wood

runners. Extend the

you

table top as wide as possible to allow

to

reach the entire length of the wood runners.

With a shop knife or old wood chisel, scrape

and gummed-up lubricant from the runScrub wax or grease buildup with a
cloth soaked in turpentine or mineral spirits,
then wipe the runners clean with a dry cloth.
dirt

ners.

Rub a candle

or block of paraffin

ners, leaving a thin coat of

wax

in

the run-

(left).

and close the table several times

Open

to distribute

the lubricant evenly.

SERVICING A SPROCKET EXTENSION MECHANISM

Repairing a sticking sprocket. Extend the
table top as far as possible.

If

the sprocket

is

use a screwdriver to tighten the screw

at its center (left). If the screw hole has
become enlarged so that the screw no longer
tightens, remove the screw and sprocket, fill
loose,

the hole

in

the

wood runner

with toothpicks

and glue to provide a tighter fit (page 120)

and reinsert the screw.
the sprocket is clogged with dirt, remove the screw and lift out
the sprocket. Spray silicone lubricant on the
sprocket and scrub
with an old toothbrush.
Screw the sprocket back in position, making
If

it

sure that the sprocket teeth

teeth

on the

tracks,

with silicone lubricant.

36

mesh

with the

and spray the tracks

TABLES

REPLACING A CONNECTING

~***^&

^\v^

(^//
\\w\

Backsaw
'>

Yl

AN EXTENSION TABLE

VA
H

^/

PIN IN

\\

\^

^\

<

~-^-~^~^_

New

\A

pin

^^v

~*

^vNL

J>x

^*^~~

Pil
\^vi

\j

Installing the new pin. Guy a

replacement pin of the same diameter
and material as the old one at a hardware or woodworking supply store. If you prefer, cut one from a dowel, scoring it with the
serrated jaws of pliers to allow air and excess
glue to escape. Coat the replacement with a

l^il
II

and insert
excess glue
with a damp cloth. If you glued in a dowel,
round off the protruding end with fine sandthin layer of white or yellow glue

Removing

the broken pin. Connecting pins, tapered wood or plastic dowels that hold
a center leaf in place, can split or break if the leaf is not properly aligned before the table
top is pushed together. To remove a damaged connecting pin, open the table to its full
extension. If you can, pull the pin out by hand or with pliers, and scrape dried glue out of the
hole with a shop knife or gouge. If the broken pin does not come out, use a backsaw to cut off
the end flush with the edge of the table top (above, left). Using a drill bit the same diameter as
the pin (usually 3/8 inch), bore out the remaining piece of pin (above, right).

into

the hole, as shown.

Wipe

it

off

paper. Wait three to four hours for the glue

to set before closing the table.

SHORING UP A DROP LEAF

Building up a drop-leaf support. To raise a slanting drop leaf so

sits level with the table top, use a backsaw to cut a softwood
wedge 2 to 3 inches long, the same width as the leaf support in this
case a gateleg and thick enough to hold the leaf straight. Coat the
bottom of the wedge with a thin layer of white or yellow glue and insert
glue side down, between the support and the raised drop leaf
that

it

it,

The weight of the leaf will hold the wedge in place until the
To avoid gluing the wedge to the underside of the leaf, slip
a piece of waxed paper between them. Wipe off excess glue with a
damp cloth. Let stand 24 hours, then pull out the waxed paper.
(above).

glue dries.

Replacing a damaged pivot arm. Cover the floor or work surface

an old blanket, then invert the table on and remove the top as
described on page 32. Turn the leg-apron assembly upright and
unscrew or lift off the damaged pivot arm. With a backsaw. cut a hardwood replacement arm of the same dimensions as the old one. Secure
the replacement in a vise. Punch a position mark with an awl at the
point where the pivot will be inserted. Using a drill bit the same diameter as the pivot, drill a hole straight into the replacement pivot arm at
the mark. Set the new arm on the pivot (above) and replace the screw
had one. Turn the legs and apron upside down, set them on the
inverted table top and screw on the top.
with

if

it

it

37

TABLES

REPLACING A DROP-LEAF HINGE

Curing a loose drop

leaf.

Cover the

floor or

work surface with an

old

blanket and invert the table on this surface. Extend the loose drop leaf

expose the loose or damaged hinge. With an awl or pencil, trace the
all hinges on that leaf and on the table top, then remove the
hinges (left). To determine the type of replacement hinge to buy, examine the hinge and the way the table-top and drop-leaf edges meet.
Tables like the one shown, with a rounded rule joint, use hinges with
leaves of unequal length (inset). These hinges are available at a woodworking supply store. Simple kitchen tables, whose drop leaf and table
top have straight mating edges, use regular butt hinges, available at
hardware stores. Along with the replacement hinge, buy hinge screws
short enough not to pierce the top surface of the table.
Pack the screw holes with toothpicks or dowels (page 120). Align the
drop leaf snugly against the table top. Open the new hinge and set on
to

outlines of

it

the outline of the old hinge,

table top.

power
wrap

Use an awl

to

fitting

punch

the hinge knuckle into the notch

position

marks

for the

screws.

Fit

in

the

diameter than the screws and

screw-hole depth. Drill the
screw holes, stopping when the tape touches the wood. Set the hinge in
position and tighten the screws. Install the other hinges the same way.
it

drill

with a

with

bit slightly

masking tape

CLOSING A SPLIT EDGE

tddlng ;i veneer spline. Use wood veneer to fill a split that goes through the edge of a table
top At a woodworking or hardware store, buy a strip of veneer that matches the table top and
has no backing. Cut the veneer slightly longer and wider than the crack and sand it thin enough
to

lit

then

snugly into the

wedge

it

pads

Coat both sides

split

into the split

wood

edge (above,

veneer with a thin layer of white or yellow glue,

Close the split with a pipe clamp (above, center).

ol the

left).

and tightening the clamp only enough to bring

Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth Let the table stand for
24 hours, then release the clamp Use a wood chisel carefully to trim the veneer flush with the
table top (above, right)
the edge of the veneer is rough, smooth
with fine sandpaper.
Refinish the patch to match the table (page 92).
ting

of

the gluing surfaces

in

or cork to protect the finish

contact

If

38

it

smaller

in

to indicate the

TABLES

REJOINING A SPLIT TABLE TOP

^^Pt
i

kit

Circular

^-saw

"H^fr

^Jl^
^^^~~^

Top

Removing

the top. Many cracks in table tops can be filled with

wood putty (pages 89 and 90), or glued and
drawn together with pipe clamps (page 24). But to repair a deep
split that extends from one end of the table nearly to the other, and is
narrower than the kerf of a circular saw blade (1/8 inch), you will have
to remove the table top, saw it in two along the split and rejoin the top.
Cover the floor or work surface with an old blanket, and invert the table
on this surface. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from the metal
clips or pocket holes (above), then lift off the legs and apron and set
them aside. Unscrew any drop leaves and set them aside.

a shellac

stick- or

Completing the

Mt

split.

Draw a

line

9y^

Guide

along the crack, extending

opposite end of the table. Before beginning to cut the

top, familiarize yourself with the proper use of a circular saw
it

to the

(page 119). Make a saw guide from two C clamps and a straightedged board. To avoid splintering the wood, set the table top face
down on 2-by-4 wood blocks and butt a block against the top on the
the cut. Set a

far side of

new

one tooth-length below the

eyes, cut along the

split

carbide-tipped

table top.

carefully

saw blade

Wearing goggles

and slowly with the

to

a depth of
your

to protect

circular

saw.

keeping the base of the saw flush against the guide.

Jack plane

Gluing and clamping the table top. Set

the pieces side by

side on scraps of 2-by-4 lumber. Spread a thin coat of white or

yellow glue along the edges of both pieces and join them.

Preparing the gluing surface. Once the top is split completely,

set the pieces together and examine their fit. If the joint has any
gaps, smooth the edges slightly with a sanding block. Or secure
one piece in a vise, protecting its finish with wood or cardboard, and
very carefully and sparingly level the edge with a jack plane (page
116), taking care not to splinter the wood. Smooth the edge of the
other piece the

same way

until

the parts

fit

together snugly.

the joint with three pipe clamps, inserting

the finish.

Run

wood

or cork

pads

Clamp

to protect

the middle clamp underneath the tabie top. as shown,

to distribute the force evenly. Tighten the

the gluing surfaces together, then wipe

clamps only enough to bring

the excess glue with a clean

off

moist cloth. Let stand for 24 hours, then release the clamps. Sand the
To reassemble the table, place the top on an old blanket,

joint lightly.

screw on any drop leaves, then position the legs and apron on the top
and reattach them. Refinish the top (page 96).

39

BEDS
We adorn a

and fully on the ledges. Cut them neither so long that they
push out the side rails nor so short that they work free and fall
through the rails. To make your mattress firmer if you have no
box spring, replace old slats with a posture board of plywood
or particleboard. Since these panels are very heavy, check the
condition of the side rail ledges and reinforce them (page 44)
if necessary. A posture board made in two pieces will be easier
to disassemble and move.
A good mattress and box spring set will last from 10 to 25
years with minimal maintenance. For uniform wear, rotate the
mattress from end to end and from one side to the other every
few months. Periodically remove the mattress and flip the box
spring on its edge to vacuum dust from the bottom. A metal
box spring has a riveted, heavy steel frame. It is sturdy and

bed with fine linens and perhaps turn the mattress

bed
will give us unlimited service. Most beds do have a strong and
flexible design, but their wood frames are vulnerable to wear

from time

to time, but otherwise take for granted that the

and stress.
Beds such as the ones pictured

knock-down

apart; without

at right are built to

be taken

would be very cum-

joints, they

bersome to move and repair. Usually, the bedposts are joined

headboard and footboard with glued mortise-and-tenon
joints. The long, narrow side rails are the removable parts,
to the

attached to the bedposts with metal hooks, concealed bolts, or

wedged wood tenons to form a frame

Knock-down fasteners with hooks provide
joint;

even

after years of

being locked

for mattress slats.

a strong temporary

in place, a side rail

can

be unlatched with a sharp upward tug or a few taps from

below with a rubber mallet.
If a headboard wobbles or the frame creaks with movement,

lasts virtually forever,

something is loose or cracked. Don't wait for the bed to break

in the middle of the night; lift off the mattress and box spring
and inspect the joints, then tighten any loose hardware.
Bedraii fasteners are made of heavy metal and last nearly
forever; it is the wood they are mounted on that weakens with
age. Weight and movement wear away the wood around
screws, or split a side rail along the grain. Constant stress can
how out the sides of a frame, or crack one of the ledges that
support the mattress and box spring.
The burden carried by the side rails and ledges is shared by
the slats that span the rails. A broken slat can easily be
replaced with a board you cut yourself. Position slats squarely

inside a rectangular

but

is

susceptible to rust.

The platform bed has

ners by angle irons or

come

a rigid

Bed creaks

or

wobbles

that

knock-down

is

joined

Most bed

no

repairs require

those found in a

home

more sophisticated than

power drill, assorted screw-

tool

tool box; a

clamps (page 122) and No. 8 round-head wood

screws will usually do the job. Supplies may include casters or
replacement knock-down fasteners, available at a hardware or

drivers, pipe

store. When buying bedraii fasteners,

choose a sturdy design with more than one hook to hold the
headboard and footboard stable.

home improvement

PROCEDURE
Tighten fasteners

Glue crack and install new fastener

Replace side rail (p. 43)

cracked

(p.

HO

Wood

loose between bedpost and

joint

headboard
Mattress sags or
one side

tilts

Reglue

46)

joint (p.

42)

HO

HO

or footboard

Mattress worn

Replace mattress

Side

rail

ledge loose

Tighten or reposition screws

Side

rail

ledge sagging or broken

Replace ledge

to

Slat broken or warped

Replace
Install

Frame bows outward

Side

rail

warped

roll

properly

Rollers
Roller

Caster

tails

out ot leg

Scratches, cracks or gouges

stiff

slat (p.

Pull in side

Wm

damaged

.inri

rail

socket hole

tear

(p.

45)

and secure

rail

(p.

44)

HO

it

HO

rollers (p.

to slats (p. 46)

47)

DO

DO
BO
Spot repair finish
84) DO
Refmish bed
96) DO
Replace

enli jrged

roller (p.

47)

Replace caster (p 47
(p.

in finish

(p.

DEGREE OF

DIFFICULTY:

ESTIMATED TIME

40

44)

Clean and lubricate

or dirty

Wciqh! on castor has

HO
45) DO

(p.

posture board

Replace side

Casters do not

Easy
I

'".s

Moderate
than

hour

Complex

to 3

hours

the four cor-

loose at these joints, reposition the fasteners or reseat the

Fasteners loose
rail

at

fasteners. If the screws

screws (page 120).

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Side

rust

plywood or particleboard base

wood frame

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

Remove

with steel wool, then paint the frame with rust-resistant paint.

Over 3 hours

(Does not include drying time)

HO

Btns

Headboard
Usually decorative. Glued
mortise-and-tenon joints fasten

bedposts

to the

head

of the

Bedpost
Joined to the side rail with
a temporary joint, usually a

bed

knock-down

fastener.

Slats

Span the bed between the side

rails and rest on the ledges;
three to six separate pieces,

depending on bed

size.

Knock-down fastener
Designed so

that the side

rail

and bedpost can be

Uses special hooks, as shown, or

commonly has a detachable wood joint.

readily separated.
bolts: less

Footboard
Glued mortise-and-tenon or
dowel joints fasten bedposts

to

decorative spindles or panel.

Caster

The stem-and-socket type

is the most common caster
found on a bed. Casters
should be cleaned and
lubricated regularly

Slats
1

5 to 20 strips of

wood

joined by webbing that

runs the length of each

side

Can be

a bundle

rolled

up

in

for transport.

Footboard

Bedpost

41

BbUS

BEDRAIL FASTENERS

Knock-down
move

joinery. Because beds are such large pieces of furniture, they would be

difficult

you to disengage the side rails from

the bedposts. Shown here are three types of gravity-lock hook fasteners. The hooked metal part
of the hook-and-pin fastener (above, left) is screwed into a slot in the end of the side rail. The
hooks fit into a slot in the bedpost, where they engage hidden metal pins.
The hook-and-plate fastener has two variations. In the recessed type (above, right), the base
of the hook part is mortised into the end of the side rail and its mating part, the plate, is mortised
into the bedpost. The surface-mounted hook-and-plate fastener (inset) makes ideal replacement
requires no slots or mortise.
hardware, since
to

or store without

knock-down fasteners

that allow

it

CLOSING A CRACK

Removing

IN

A SIDE RAIL

the old fasteners,

if

the side

rail is

severely cracked

damaged, make a new side rail (page 43). the side rail has
been cracked by a loosened fastener, close the crack, then
ice mounted fastener. Lift out the mattress, box spring

or

If

f.

you position the side

it.

trace the outline of the

i

ige the side

(he Other, CM

t>y

rail

damaged end

rail

correctly

of the side

or

and from

ill

wood Unscrew
Itl

reinstalling

on the bedpost

from the bedposts by lifting it at one end. then

up with a rubber mallet Secure the
ting

when

rail

its

finish with card-

the old fastener from the side

ding bedpost

rail

t.ibove)

Buy a surface-mounted hookiiovement store

42

Clamping

the crack.

Use a

toothpick to work white or yellow

C clamp on

the top and bottom edges

pads of wood or cork to protect the finish, then tighten the clamp just enough to bring the crack together
(above): do not overtighten. Wipe away excess glue with a clean,
damp cloth To strengthen the end of the rail, use a backsaw to cut
a hardwood patch to fit into the mortise left by the old fastener. Glue

glue into the crack. Place a

of

the side

the patch

in

rail,

inserting

place. Allow the glue to set for three to four hours, then

release the clamp and sand the patch flush with the side

from the vise.

the side

rail

side

and the bedpost,

rail

Install

rail.

Remove

the surface-mounted fastener on the

following the instructions

on page 43.

BtUi

MAKING A NEW SIDE RAIL

Making a side rail and installing new hooks. If you are

simply replacing a fastener on the old side rail, go to the next
paragraph. To make a new side rail, trace the outline o< the

ends of the damaged side rail on both bedposts, then lift off or tap
on the bottom with a rubber mallet to separate from the bedposts.
Take the side rail to a hardwood lumber store. Buy a board of the
same wood as the side rail and have it cut to size and planed at the
store. Also buy a replacement for the old ledge, usually 1 -by-1 -inch
hardwood, and a set of two surface-mounted hook-and-plate fasteners. Install the ledge on the new side rail (page 44, step 2), and
stain and finish the side rail to match the bed (page 96).
Place the side rail on a work surface padded with an old blanket.
Position the hook part of the fastener on one end of the side rail, with
the ends of the hooks lined up flush with the end of the wood. Use
an awl to punch position marks for the mounting screws. Fit a power
drill with a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter than the screws and
mark the screw length on the bit with masking tape. Drill screw holes
at the marks, stopping when the tape touches the wood. Screw the
hook part to the side rail (left). Attach a hook at the other end of a
it

it

new

side

rail

the

same way.

hook at the end of the

up the end of the side rail with
the outline on the bedpost. With the side rail correctly positioned, use a pencil to trace the
outline of the new fastener plate on the bedpost (above, left), then use an an awl to punch position marks for the mounting screws. If installing new fasteners at both ends of the side rail, mark
on a work surthe other bedpost the same way. Detach the headboard or footboard and set
face, padded with an old blanket. Prepare a drill bit as in step 1 drill screw holes in the bedpost,
then screw on the fastener plate (above, right). Repeat the procedure for the opposite bedpost,
necessary. Reassemble the bed frame and reinstall the slats, box spring and mattress.
Installing

side

rail.

new

fastener plates. Mate the fastener plate

Have a helper hold the

side

rail in

to the

position, lining

;t

if

43

REPLACING A LEDGE

Removing

the ledge. If the ledge on a

sagging or broken, remove
the old ledge and install a new one. Lift
off the mattress, box spring, and slats. Detach
the side rail by pulling it up, or by tapping it
from below with a rubber mallet. Place the side
rail on a work surface, padded with an old
blanket, and secure it to the work surface with
C clamps. To guide you when installing the
new ledge, use a pencil to trace an outline of
the old ledge on the rail. Remove the screws
that secure the ledge to the side rail. The
ledge is probably glued as well; pry it off using
an old wood chisel and a rubber mallet (left).
With a shop knife, scrape dried glue from the
side rail. Release the C clamps.

between the ledge and the bottom

same wood

to

thin layer of white or yellow

the ledge onto the

rail,

make

of the side

rail,

support blocks (step

glue on the ledge and side

aligning

it

support to the ledge. the ledge does not run along

edge of the side rail, you can bolster the ledge by
adding wood support blocks beneath
Use a backsaw to cut six
or seven wood blocks approximately 3 inches long. Spread a thin coat
of white or yellow glue on the blocks and the side rail, and press on
the blocks, spacing them about 10 inches apart. With an awl. pierce
two screw-position marks in each block. Drill screw holes through the
blocks into the side rail below, as you did for the ledge in step 2. Drive
No 8 wood screws into the holes. Reinstall the side rail, then put back
the slats, box spring and mattress.

buy an extra
Spread a
then press

Secure the
the middle. Use an awl to

within the traced outline.

ledge with a C clamp at each end and in

punch position marks for screws at 12-inch intervals along the ledge.
To avoid piercing the finished side of the rail when you drill, choose
No 8 wood screws 1/4 inch shorter than the combined thickness of
the ledge and side rail, and mark the screw length on a 3/32 inch drill
bit with masking tape. Bore a screw hole through the ledge into the
side rail at each mark, stopping when the tape touches the wood
Install a countersink bit (page 1 14) on the drill and bore countersink
holes for the screw heads Drive the screws into the holes (above).

If

it.

3).

rail,

rail is

the bottom

ally

2 feet of the

44

3\dding

Installing the ledge. Buy a replacement for the old ledge, usuinch hardwood. If there is space for ledge supports
1 -by- 1

side

BEDS

REPLACING DAMAGED SLATS

Repairing bundled
the position of the

slats.

Lift off

damaged

the mattress and box spring. Trace

onto the webbing

at both sides. With

(above) or a screwdriver, pull out the staples or tacks
that hold the damaged slat to the webbing. Lift out the slat. Buy a

long-nose

pliers

replacement hardwood

Replacing a single slat. Lift out the mattress, box spring and damaged slat. Buy a replacement hardwood slat of the same dimensions
as the damaged one. Have
cut to length at the lumber yard or cut it
yourself with a backsaw. Set in the new slat (above), spacing the slats
equally within the bed frame. Replace the box spring and mattress.
it

Have

it

slat

same dimensions as

slat of the

cut to length at the lumber yard or cut

it

the old one.

yourself with a back-

saw. Slip the new

slat between the webbing and the side rail ledge and
use a staple gun to fasten the webbing to the slat (inset). Replace the
box spring and mattress.

Dropping in a posture board. A posture

board can be installed in place of slats to
make a mattress firmer. To replace slats with
a 3/4-inch plywood or particleboard sheet,
have the panel cut to the inside dimensions
of the bed frame, allowing for a 1 8-inch gap
on all edges of the panel. Lift out or roll up
the slats. Tighten any loose screws securing
each ledge to its side rail and. if possible,
reinforce them following the instructions on
page 44. To ventilate the mattress, use a 1inch

drill bit

to

bore holes through the posture

board, spacing them 9 to 12 inches apa>1

With a helper, carefully lower the board onto

the ledge,

smooth side

up.

45

STRAIGHTENING A BULGING SIDE RAIL

Correcting the warp. you have separate
bed slats, you can use them to anchor a bulgIf

ing side

If your slats are 3 inches wide or

have three 1-by-4 hardwood slats

rail.

less, either

cut to the

same

length as the old slats, or

replace the warped side

rail

(page

43).

tighten or

ledge to

Lift

out

and slats.
necessary,
reposition the screws that hold each

the mattress, box spring

side

its

rail.

If

Remove

all

but three slats

and space them evenly between the headboard

and footboard. Place two pipe clamps across
the side rails, inserting wood or cork pads to
protect the finish. Tighten the clamps, as shown,
until the side rails straighten and each of the
three slats

both side

is

pulled

slat

in

1/8 inch from the inside surfaces

is

of

rails; this

squarely.

ensures that the side rail

of each

Mark the edges

on the ledges with a

pencil, then

remove

the two outer slats. With an awl. punch two

screw-position marks
Drill

ledge below.
drill,

in

each end

of the slat.

3/32-inch holes at the marks and into the

use a

raise the

the side

rail interferes with the

extension long enough to
above the top of the side rail.

If

drill-bit

drill

Countersink each hole with a countersink bit

and drive in No. 8 wood screws (inset). Install
the other two slats the same way. Release the

clamps and put back the remaining

set in the box spring and mattress.

REGLUING A

WOOD

slats,

then

JOINT

\^
Pipe clamp

\s\^\

II

rati

complfti'ly

headboard or footboard, lift

box spring and slats,
headboard or footboard from the
on a padded work sur
Try to pull
I

with

.i

nt

by h.ind

Use a

rubbei mallet

dried glue from

il

46

JviU^

the

.i!

the |oint

.iw.iy

leaning the Joint. To repair a loose

|oim

We

jukc^t

any wood.

to

carve

Gluing and clamping. Spread a

8r

thin coat of white or yellow glue

the dowel holes, then tap the joint together with the mallet.

Clamp

on the dowels and

in

the freshly glued joint

clamp (above), inserting pads of wood or cork to protect the finish. Tighten
enough to close the joint; do not overtighten. Wipe away any excess glue with a
clean, damp cloth. Wait 24 hours for the glue to set. then release the clamp Reassemble the
bed and set in the slats, box spring and mattress.
with a pipe

the clamp only

BfcU^

REPLACING A DAMAGED CASTER ROLLER

Inspecting and servicing a caster. The most
type of caster found on the narrow
legs of a bed (or a table or chair) is the stem-

common

type caster

(inset).

a hole

fitted into

metal sleeve or socket

drilled in the

bottom

the teeth on the socket collar hold

place.

The metal stem

of the roller

it

is

of the leg:
firmly in

snaps

into

the socket, attaching the caster to the leg and

allowing
properly,

it

to swivel.

lift

If

a caster does not

roll

out the mattress, box spring and

then detach the headboard or footboard

from the frame and set it on a work surface
padded with an old blanket. Remove any rug
slats,

and debris that clog the roller: then spray

and stem with silicone lubricant. If the
roller appears badly worn or damaged, pull it
out of the socket (left). At a hardware store,
buy a replacement caster with a stem and
roller that match the dimensions of the old
caster and rated to support the same load.
If possible, buy a caster with a nylon roller,
which will not rust. Lubricate the stem of the
new roller with paraffin wax. then push firmly
into the empty socket until
snaps into place.
Reassemble the bed frame, then set in the
slats, box spring and mattress.
fibers

the roller

it

it

REPAIRING A LOOSE CASTER SOCKET

Rubber mallet

Screwdriver

5^
Collar

^~s

Roller

\^

c^
Installing a new socket. Stress on a caster can loosen the socket,
making
rub against the wood and enlarge the socket hole. The result
is a wobbly caster or one that falls out when the bed is lifted. Lift off the
mattress, box spring and slats, then disassemble the bed. Secure the
leg with the loose caster in a vise, protecting the finish with cardboard
it

or cork. Pull the roller out of the socket.

To remove the

socket, drive

an old screwdriver under the socket collar (above, left). Pry the socket
straight up out of its hole at a 90-degree angle to avoid fracturing the
leg. Fill the socket hole by plugging it with a wood dowel (page 120).
If the old caster is damaged, buy a replacement caster with a stem

match the dimensions of the old one. Select a drill bit the
the new socket and use masking tape to mark the bit
to the depth of the socket. Bore into the center of the dowel glued in the
leg. stopping when the tape touches the wood. Insert the new socket
into the hole, then place a wood block over the the collar and hammer in

and

roller that

same diameter as

the socket
affir

until

wax on

the teeth are seated

the

roller

stem

in

to lubricate

the leg (above, center).

it.

Rub

par-

then push the stem into the

socket (above, right) until it snaps into place. If you are replacing the
entire set. repeat the procedure for the other legs. Reassemble the bed.

47

DRAWERS, DOORS AND SHELVES

Cabinet drawers and doors suffer constant swinging, sliding
and pulling. In time, they can develop annoying ailments:
Drawers slide crookedly, doors fit imperfectly, and shelves

develop a wobble or an unbecoming sag.

A drawer slides in and out of the cabinet on a system of
runners and guides. The drawer sides may be grooved, forming guides that slide along wood runners in the sides of the
cabinet, as in the cabinet below. In other styles, the bottom

edges of the drawer sides may serve as runners, as in the chest

of drawers below. Wide drawers sometimes have a middle
runner on the bottom to help distribute the weight.
If a drawer refuses to slide freely, check for a loose item
lodged in the sliding apparatus. Severely worn bottom runners
require what cabinetmakers refer to as reshoeing, a method of

replacing the
strip,

worn

part of the runner with a

then reshaping the runner to

its

new hardwood

original dimensions

(page 52). Drawers in some modern cabinets slide on metal

tracks screwed to the sides or bottom of the drawer and cabinet. To keep the tracks operating smoothly, spray them occasionally with silicone lubricant, extending the drawer as far as
possible. If the tracks are clogged with dirt, first scrub them
with a old toothbrush.

Every time a drawer is pulled out, the joints take stress.

Often you can reglue one loose joint without taking the drawer
drawer is loose and rickety, however, carefully
knock apart the joints and rebuild the drawer (page 56).
The doors in the cabinet below show two variations: one fits
flush within the cabinet frame and the other is lipped to butt

apart. If the

Drawer
The bottom edges of the drawer
sides act as runners that glide along
the cabinet frame. Dovetail joints
(page 123) secure the front to the
sides. The back is held to the sides
with dado, rabbet or dovetail joints.
Shelf

Made

of wood, plywood or glass.

Supported by hardwood cleats attached
may also be
mounted on pegs or clips of metal, wood
or plastic, or on metal brackets

to the sides of the cabinet;

Lipped door
The door edge overlaps the cabinet frame.
,

door is secured to the

cabinet by offset hinges; the hinge leaf attached
to the door is angled to fit behind the lip. The
glass pane is held in place by wood molding
Typically, the lipped

Flush door
The face of the door

fits

flush with

the face of the cabinet. Butt hinges,

mortised into the cabinet and the

door edge, hold the door

Drawer
and out along wood cleats in the cabinet that
into channels in the sides ol the drawer Drawer sides
are dadoed into the front (page 123) The back may be
attached to the sides with dado or rabbet |omts, or butt
lomts in more modern cabinets The drawer bottom fits
into a groove in each side of the &
I

fit
'

48

in

place

UWWrO

UKAWllK.

1
).

against the frame edges. Hinges attach each

door to the cabidoor types are described further on page

57. When a cabinet door sags or sticks, the problem could be
caused by loose or improperly aligned hinges. Before sanding
net.

common

These

or planing an ill-fitting door,

first

try tightening the

hinge

screws, then, on a flush door, try resetting the hinge.

Use

diagnostic diagram on page 58 to help you decide

when

build up the mortise or shave

the cabinet

is

it

down.

twisted out of square,

If the

door

may

it

is

the
to

warped or

be necessary to

reshape the door (page 60). Proceed slowly, test-fitting often

to

prevent taking off too

much wood and destroying

the door's

;\.MJ .MII'.LVtb

solution can be as simple as Hipping the shelf. Badly

warped

or cracked shelves should be replaced. Refer to the load-

bearing chart on page 63 before choosing a

When

new

shell.

wobbles or tips, a weakened support is usually

to blame. If the mounting holes of adjustable peg supports are
worn, the pegs can simply be repositioned to unworn holes. If
a shelf

space requirements

make

impossible, reseat the pegs

this

(page 62). The metal clip-and-track system found

modern bookcases seldom requires repair. Bent or

in

many

lost clips

are easily fixed or replaced.

Common

drawers and shelves do not

repairs to doors,

Most of

appearance.

require advanced carpentry skills.

The greatest problem with shelves is sagging, as the shelf

bows under the weight of the articles it stores or displays. The

chapter can be accomplished with a plane, a chisel,

the repairs in this

wood

glue

and pipe clamps (page 113).

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
PROCEDURE

POSSIBLE CAUSE

SYMPTOM

DRAWERS
Cabinet warped or

Drawer sticks

Sliding surfaces

floor

need

uneven

lubrication

Insert wood shim under cabinet to make it sit squarely; inspect

cabinet for structural flaws and have it rebuilt professionally

Rub soap or wax on runners and guides (bottom runners, p. 50;

side runners, p. 53)

DO

Nail

head catching on

sliding

area

Bottom runners worn unevenly

Countersink or remove

Add tacks

runners (bottom runners,

Drawer

fits

loosely

in

cabinet

Drawer handle loose

Bottom runners worn or rutted

Build

Drawer bottom sagging or damaged

Flip or

Drawer

Reglue

joint

loose

DO

53)

nail (p.

(p. 50) GO: sand or plane

50; side runners, p. 53)

or glides to runners or guides

up runners

(p.

p.

HO:

51)

replace drawer bottom

joint (p.

55)

DO;

replace runners

54)

(p.

DO

drawer

rebuild

(p.

DO
UQ

52)

(p.

56)

H0

or glides to runners or guides (p. 50) DO: sand or plane

runners (bottom runners, p. 50: side runners, p. 53)

Bottom runners worn unevenly

Add tacks

Bottom runners worn or rutted

Build

Screw holes enlarged

Pack screw holes and reseat screws

Hinge loose or improperly mounted

Tighten screws or replace screws with longer ones; pack screw

holes and reseat screws (p. 120) DO; read gaps to locate sticking
or deepen
areas (p. 58). then build up hinge with shim (p. 58)
hinge mortise (p. 59)

up runners

(p.

51)

HO:

replace runners
120)

(p.

(p.

DO
MQ

52)

DO

DOORS
Cabinet door sticks or gaps

HO

HO

Door warped

or cabinet

frame twisted

Read gaps
shim

(p.

plane door

have

Door does not stay closed

'

latch

broken or missing

HO,

(p.

60)

areas

DO;

59)

HO.

inspect cabinet for structural

Install latch to

hold door closed

57)

(p.

up mortised hinge with shim

Accidental damage; door warped

Replace pane

sags

Warpage caused by excess weight

Turn shelf over; replace shelf

wobbly

Shelf supports loose or misaligned

Reposition or anchor shelf supports

door broken

(p.

up hinge with
or sand or
faults and

rebuilt professionally

Build

in

58). then build

(p.

deepen hinge mortise

Hinge too deeply mortised

Glass pane

Door

it

to locate sticking

58)

(p.

61)

(p.

DO
HO

58)

HO

SHELVES
Shelf

(p.

63)

HO

Shelf

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:

ESTIMATED TIME:

Complex
Easy H Moderate
Less than 1 hour 1 to 3 hours

(p.

62)

DO

Over 3 hours (Does not include drying time)

49

Lrv./Avv

ci\o. u\jyyi\j

UNSTICKING A

Kx

/-\.>lv

jiillvlj

DRAWER WITH BOTTOM RUNNERS

Waxing

it

wax along

paraffin

sliding surfaces. Pull the sticking

drawer out of the cabinet and place

upside
down on a work surface. Runners that feel
rough or dry require waxing. Rub soap or

^\^

x^Q)

drawer runner

the entire length of the

Drawer guides on the

also need lubrication. If necessary, remove an adjoining
drawer to gain access to the drawer guides.
Use a hammer and nail set to countersink
any protruding nail heads (page 120), then
coat the sliding surfaces with soap or paraffin
wax (near left). If there is a center runner on
the drawer bottom, lubricate
and the mating
(far left).

inside of the cabinet

Soap

Bottom runner

may

it

(0

guide inside the cabinet frame.

worn

Raising a

edge. The runners of

wear

heavily used drawers tend to

front.

jp.

If

the drawer

evenly, or

it

drawer out

does not

loosely

fits

in

of the cabinet

at the

the cabinet, pull the

and

set

it

surface. Inspect the bottom runners

>3v

Thumbtack

y/\
-^i
it~~~-^

Worn

'

runner

pJ

MA

Ml

and out

slide in

on a work
on the

drawer for signs of wear. Fill in a curve in the

drawer runner by firmly pressing in a row of
thumbtacks (far left). If the entire runner is
badly worn or rutted, build it up with veneer
(page 51) or nylon tape, or replace the runner
(page 52). If the runner does not show signs
of wear, inspect the guides inside the cabinet.
To raise a worn guide, tap thumbtacks or
purchased drawer glides into the worn
area (near left).

Leveling an uneven edge.

out of the cabinet and invert

drawer
on a work sur-

Pull the
it

To locate the sticking spot, rub chalk

along the edges of both drawer runners (far
left), then return the drawer to the cabinet
face.

and

and out several times. Pull out

over and inspect the
chalked edges; the chalk will rub off any high
areas on the runners that are causing the
drawer to stick. Use a sanding block with
medium-grit sandpaper to smooth the protruslide

it

the drawer,

in

flip

it

sions, then test the drawer.

If

it

still

sticks,

a vise to shave down high spots

sparingly with a properly adjusted block plane
or jack plane (page 1 13). Keeping even pressure on the plane, shear the wood along the
secure

it

in

gram (near

50

left)-

DKAWtK.Y DUOKN \\U SIM.LVhS

BUILDING UP A

WORN BOTTOM RUNNER

_//

Pencil

\\.

//

Veneer

pi

Measuring and cutting the veneer strip. Set the drawer

down on a work surface. Use sandpaper to smooth the

upside

bottom runners, then measure their length. Buy a hardwood

veneer strip wide enough to cover the runner and twice as long; double
that measurement if both runners are worn. Extend the veneer strip
along the runner and mark the width and length of the runner on it
(above). Place the strip on a work surface and use a utility knife and
metal straightedge to trim the veneer to size. Cut a strip for the other
runner the same way.

Gluing on the veneer strip. Lay the trimmed veneer along the
worn runner to make sure fits. Use a small brush to spread a
thin, even layer of contact cement on both surfaces to be joined.
(Veneer edging also comes with a pre-glued backing that must be
ironed on.) Allow about 5 minutes for the contact cement to dry. then,
aligning the veneer strip exactly, press
onto the runner (above).
Apply pressure along the entire length of the veneer strip to ensure
that the edges are bonded. Repeat the procedure to install the strip
on the second runner.
it

it

Sanding

Use a sanding block

sandpaper to smooth
the veneer strip lightly along its edges
(left). Return the drawer to the cabinet and
slide
in and out several times to test the fit.
the runners are too high, sand them down.
If the runners require more rebuilding, add a
second layer of veneer, following the same
to

fit.

with medium-grit

it

If

procedure. Lubricate the rebuilt runners with

paraffin

wax (page

50).

51

UKrtWtW.

U\JKJt\0

AINU JHCLVCJ

REPLACING BOTTOM RUNNERS

c;

Try square

^^^

~^^s?"-i

~~^""^^/l

<0/

>m>?
1

Drawing planing lines. Place the drawer upside down on a

work surface and secure in a vise. To guide you when trimming the damaged runners, use a try square or steel square
to draw a line on each drawer side just below the area of most wear
(above). The line cannot extend past the drawer bottom. At each
drawer side, measure for a hardwood strip to replace the runner:
Measure the length of the drawer side, its thickness and, at the back
of the drawer side, where the wear is least, measure the depth of the
piece to the planing line. Note these measurements for later use.

3
sliding

it

new runners.

At a lumber yard, have two pieces of

dimensions noted in step 1 Maple or birch
inners; make sure there are no knots on the
surfa es Spread b thin layer of white or yellow glue on the sur>incd Align the tirsl piece on the corresponding drawer
mto place (above). Glue the second piece to the

Installing

h.irdwood cut

to the

'

the

52

same

<.

Trimming away

the

worn runners. Use a

down a runner
grain of the wood

drawn

jack plane (page

11 6) to pare

to the line

along the

(above), maintaining even pressure.

The blade

of the jack plane will not

drawer; to shave this section, use a

reach

wood

in

into the front

step

Plane

corner of the

chisel slightly wider than the

runner. Hold the chisel at an angle, beveled side facing down,

lightly

tap the handle

end

with a mallet (inset). Chisel the

wood

and
in

very

care not to remove any wood below the guideline.

Trim away the second runner in the same manner.

thin layers, taking

Clamping the repair. Clamp the replacement runner to the

drawer side with C clamps. Insert a wood strip between the
clamp jaws and the replacement runner to distribute the clamping pressure; a sheet of waxed paper between the wood strip and the
runner will prevent oozing glue from sticking. Tighten the clamps just
enough to bring the two gluing surlaces evenly together (above): do
not over-tighten. Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth.
Clamp the runner on the other side the same way. Wait 24 hours for
the glue to set. then release the clamps. Test the drawer in the cabinet Sand the new runners to fit and lubricate them with paraffin wax.

DKAWfclO. DUUKS

UNSTICKING A

DRAWER WITH

SIDE

AMJ

SUkLVk.S

RUNNERS
^<*^

_,

Setting a nail. Sliding assemblies are sometimes mounted

with finishing nails. With wear, the nails may loosen and protrude. Slide the binding

drawer out

and inspect the

the cabinet. If you find a

of the cabinet

guides on the drawer and the runners inside

hammer and nail set (page 120) to set the

head (above). If a nail is loose or bent, remove with a nail puller
pliers and drive a new nail close to the old hole. Set the new nail.

protruding nail head, use a

nail

or

it

Waxing

the sliding surfaces. With a shop knife or an old wood

chisel, scrape old wax from the runners and guides. Rub soap
or paraffin wax on the sliding surfaces of the drawer (above, left).
then coat the mating sliding surfaces inside the cabinet frame (above,
right). Return the drawer to the cabinet and slide it in and out several
times. If the drawer still binds, pull it out again and go to step 3.

Sanding runners and guides. To

locate raised surfaces that might be
binding, run chalk along the

edges

of

the drawer guides, then return the drawer

and

and out several

and inspect the
chalked edges: the chalk will rub off any binding areas. Use a sanding block with mediumgrit sandpaper to smooth these areas (left).
Do not over-sand and do not round off sharp
edges. Test-fit the drawer several times during the sanding procedure to avoid removing
too much wood. If necessary, apply chalk to
the cabinet runners and sand them as well.
When the drawer slides freely in and out of
to the cabinet

slide

it

in

times. Pull out the drawer

the cabinet, lubricate the sliding surfaces

with paraffin

wax

or silicone.

53

DKAWbKb. UUUKb AINU bHtLVtb

REPAIRING A

Removing

DRAWER BOTTOM

the

drawer bottom.

work surface. Use a

nail puller to

Pull the

drawer out

of the cabinet

and place

it

upside

down on a

take out any nails fastening the drawer bottom to the back (above,

left). If the nails are set. turn over the drawer and use a wood block and hammer to hit inside the
drawer bottom near the back, popping the nail heads. Turn the drawer upside down again and extract the
nails. Use an old wood chisel to pry off any glue blocks holding the bottom to the drawer sides. Slide the
bottom out of its grooves (above, right). If the bottom sags, but is otherwise in good condition, flip
A badly
worn or cracked drawer bottom should be replaced. Measure the old drawer bottom and buy a piece of
hardboard or plywood of the same thickness (normally 1/4 inch, but may range from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch).
Have the bottom cut to fit, or cut yourself. Smooth all cut edges with medium-grit sandpaper.
it.

it

Installing the

drawer bottom.

Slide

the drawer bottom into the grooves

the drawer sides.

To secure the

tom, drive box nails through

it

into the

in

bot-

back

spacing them about 2 inches

the drawer has glue blocks,

of the drawer,

apart

(left).

If

use a shop knife to scrape off any dried glue,

then spread a thin layer of white or yellow
glue on the gluing surfaces and install the
blocks on the drawer bottom in their original
positions against the sides. Wait three to four
hours for the glue to set before returning the
drawer to the cabinet.

54

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

REGLUING A LOOSE JOINT

Working glue
face.

Examine

into the joint. Slide the drawer out of

all

joints for

soundness.

In

its

cabinet and set

it

the drawer shown, the loose joint

on a work

sur-

a dovetail
shaky, sepa-

is

is repaired the same way. If one joint is

by hand, taking care not to loosen the firm joints. Use a shop knife to scrape out as
much dried glue as possible without cutting into the wood (above, left). With a toothpick (above,

joint,

but a dado, rabbet or butt joint

rate the joint

right) or

a glue syringe (page 121).

together by hand or tap

it

inject

glue into the crevices of the

joint.

Push the

joint

back

gently with a rubber mallet.

Clamping the drawer

joint. Attach

pipe clamps to the drawer at the

reglued

joint (left).

Tighten the clamps

enough to bring the gluing surfaces in

contact. To make sure that the drawer is
clamped squarely, measure diagonally from
only

the front right corner to the back

and from the

front

corner. Adjust the

left
fit

left

corner,

corner to the back

of the

clamps

until

right

the

two measurements are equal. Use a clean,

damp cloth to wipe away any glue that beads
out of the joint. Release the clamps after 24
hours and return the drawer to the cabinet.

55

UKAWtKi. UUUKi AINU SMtLVti

REBUILDING A RICKETY

DRAWER

V
1

Knocking the drawer apart. Pull the drawer out of the cabinet and set on a work surRemove the drawer bottom (page 54). Use a nail puller to extract any nails fastening
the joints. Examine the way the drawer front and back are attached to the sides before
it

face.

knock the drawer apart. If the drawer front is dovetailed to the sides and the back
as in this drawer, tap on the sides inside each corner. Place a hardwood block against the side of the drawer at the front corner, and strike the block sharply with a
mallet (above) or a hammer. Repeat the procedure at the back corner, then on the opposite
side, tapping the corners alternately so that all four joints loosen together gradually.
the sides
are dadoed into the drawer front and the drawer back is dadoed into the sides (inset), tap on the
drawer front at the corners, then tap the sides at the back corners. Separate the back and front
you begin
is

dadoed

to

into the sides,

If

Gluing the

joints. Use a shop knife

scrape dried glue out of the drawer
joints, taking care not to break the
fingers of a dovetail. Spread a thin layer of
white or yellow glue on the gluing surfaces:
use a small brush (above) or a toothpick to
spread the glue. Reassemble the drawer
immediately (step 3).
to

from the sides.

Glue ^"^^SJ

block

Reinforcing the repair. the drawer

used to store heavy items, you can
If

is

reinforce

saw

3
on

tii'

front

with glue blocks.

Use a

back-

wood,

slightly less

than the

interior

depth

of

together the joints at the front (above, left) then

Reassembling the drawer, Irsl
the back Push the joints together with your hands or tap them into place with the

the drawer. Apply a thin layer of glue to two

rubber mallet. Slide the drawer bottom into the grooves

drawer. Press the block into the corner (above).

fit

'<

il

ihe reglued |Oints (above, right)

Pad

the

in

the sides. Attach pipe clamps

clamp jaws

if

they contact the drawer

Tighten the clamps only enough to bring the gluing surfaces in contact. To make sure that
Irawer is clamped squarely, measure diagonally from the front right corner to the back left
then from the front left corner to the back right corner If these two measurements are
idjust the

fit

of the

Clampa With a clean,

damp

nt of the |oints Release the clamps after 24 hours

56

it

to cut four small, rectangular blocks of soft-

cloth,

wipe away any glue that

sides of a block and an inside corner of the

rubbing
up and down several times to exclude
any air bubbles. Glue the other blocks the same
way. Wait three to four hours for the glue to
set before returning the drawer to the cabinet.
it

DRAWKRS. DOORS AND SHELVKS

TWO

KINDS OF

DOORS AND HINGES

A flush door is cut to the

so that when closed,
sits flush inside the
opening. Typically, standard butt hinges, which have two equal leaves
joined in a knuckle, attach a flush door to the cabinet (above). One leaf
of the hinge is mounted in a mortise on the cabinet, while the other is
surface-mounted or mortised into the door edge. Some butt hinges
have loose pins that can be pulled out of the knuckle, making
easy
Doors that

fit

flush within the frame.

size of the cabinet opening,

it

it

remove the door. Because of the precise fit of flush doors, slight
warpage of the door, settling of the cabinet frame or sags in the
hinges can make the door stick or can cause noticeable gaps between the door edges and the cabinet opening.
to

INSTALLING A

Doors that overlap the frame. A lipped, or inset, door is partially

recessed into the cabinet opening and fitted with a lip that overlaps
the framework of the cabinet. Lipped doors are hung with offset hinges,
which have one leaf shaped at a 90-degree angle to fit against the
back of the lip (above). Precise fit is far less important in the lipped
door; the lip hides gaps between the door edge and the cabinet opening, and allows for much more play between them. It is seldom necessary to adjust the hinges on a lipped door.

DOOR LATCH
y^- ^5

>i-J

Catch

= =^-J-

"---^

plate

Sliding
bolt

yP%

\A
/

/
Holding a door closed. Install a new latch the old latch is broken,
or
the door has no latch and does not stay closed. If the cabinet has
double doors, you can install a finger latch inside the cabinet. This
latch has two parts: an L-shaped catch and a spring-loaded hook. The
catch sits inside the cabinet and the hook fits on the back of the door;
when the door is closed, the two pieces latch together. To open the
jdoor, you must open the adjacent door and press back the hook. To
.install the latch, hook the two parts together and position the catch on
the floor of the cabinet and the hook on the back of the door. Use an
if

if

marks for the mounting screws. Remove the

holes at the marks. Screw the catch to the cabinet
to the door (above, left). Test the fit of the finger-latch

awl to punch position

and drill
and the hook
latch

pilot

ml
>

ill

by loosening the screw on the catch and sliding

the catch forward or backward along its oblong screw hole. Latches with
roller, friction and magnetic catches are installed in a similar manner.
A bar latch can be installed on the outside of the dcor. Bar latches are
available in a variety of sizes, styles and finishes. Choose a bar latch
with a straight bolt for a flush door or one with a bent bolt for a lipped
door Position the sliding-bolt assembly on the door and mark its screwhole positions with a pencil or an awl. Drill pilot holes at the marks and
screw the sliding-bolt assembly in place. Next, position the catch plate
on the cabinet frame, or on the divider between double doors, and fit the
bolt into the catch plate to align it. Mark the screw-hole positions (above,

assembly and adjust

right), drill pilot

it

holes and screw the catch plate to the door.

57

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

DIAGNOSING DOOR PROBLEMS

Reading gaps and locating binding areas. When a door sticks or
jams against its opening in the frame, the problem could be as simple
as a loose hinge screw or as complex as a twisted door or cabinet
frame. First try to solve the problem by tightening all hinge screws on
the door and on the cabinet frame. If the screw holes are worn, install
longer screws or rebuild the holes (page 120) and remount the hinges.
Close the door and check whether sags; note any uneven gaps
between the door edges and the cabinet frame. Use the diagrams at
left to read the gaps and binding to help determine solutions to your
it

fitting

problem.

Rub marks

wood along

the edges of a door or the cabiwhere a door is sticking. the tight

spots are hard to see, rub chalk along the door edges, then open and
close the door several times. The chalk will rub off at the points where
the door is sticking. Alternatively, insert a sheet of paper between the
edge of a flush door and the cabinet: the paper should move freely
around the door except at the sticking points. To eliminate very slight
rubbing, lightly sand the raised areas with medium-grit sandpaper.
net frame

or burnished

can provide clues

to

If

Otherwise, adjust the hinges.

Rubbing may occur in a flush door

one hinge leaf is mortised too

deeply or not deeply enough in the wood, or if the wood of the door or
cabinet has swollen or shrunk. Examine the hinge leaves for one that
does not
is

sit

if

flush with the surface; to shim, or build up.

a hinge

leaf that

deepen the mortise of a raised

hinge adjustments do not solve the prob-

too deep, follow the steps below: to

hinge

leaf,

lem, you

go

to

page

may have

to

59.

If

reshape the door

to

fit

the cabinet (page 60).

SHIMMING A HINGE

Fitting Hit slum. Open the door and wedge a piece of wood or
cardboard under the bottom corner to prevent the door from sagging Remove the screws that mount the hinge leaf to the cabinet frame Slip a thin piece ol cardboard behind the detached hinge
leal. Use an awl to trace the outline of the hinge leaf on the cardboard
and punch holes at the screw hole positions (above). Take out the
cardboard and use a utility knife or scissors to cut the shim about
16
1

inch smaller than thp Irnced outline

58

Installing the shim.

Slide the shim behind the

leaf into the mortise, aligning the

punched holes

detached hinge
with the screw

holes (above). Screw the hinge to the cabinet. Pull out the
close the door to test it. If it sticks, the hinge

wedge and open and

still

be too deep. Shim

wood

may

again until the hinge leaf sits flush with the

surface, or deepen the mortise of the other hinge (page 59).
it

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

DEEPENING A HINGE MORTISE

Dismounting the door. Open the door and wedge a piece of

wood or cardboard under the bottom corner to prevent the door

from sagging. Unscrew the hinge leaves from the cabinet frame
Do not unscrew the hinge leaves
attached to the door. Remove the door from the cabinet.

Deepening the edges of the mortise. To prevent the chisel

from enlarging the outline of the mortise, use a sharp utility knife
to score the mortise perimeter to a depth of 1/16 inch (above).

(above), starting with the lower hinge.

\
sJ^V-^v

-1^ vMv)

'

fit. Fit the door into place again and remount the
hinges (above), replacing screws that are worn or damaged;
choose slightly longer screws for a better grip. Close the door to
test the fit. If the binding persists, unscrew the hinge leaves from the
cabinet, lift off the door and deepen the mortise a little more (step 3).

Chiseling the mortise. Using a wood chisel with the beveled

As a

Testing the

final resort,

reshape the door (page

60).

edge facing down, shave a thin, even layer of wood out of the
mortise (above). Use hand pressure only: do not push hard on
the chisel. Fit the door back into place with the hinge leaf positioned in
the deepened mortise. If the leaf does not sit evenly, the mortise is not
flat; use the wood chisel to even out the surface.

59

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

LEVELING A STICKING DOOR

Sanding down a high area. To

locate

the areas to be leveled, rub chalk along

the door edges, open and close the door

several times and look for the points

where
Use a sanding block
medium-grit sandpaper to smooth down

the chalk has rubbed

with

the tight spots

(left).

off.

Do

not over-sand;

test-fit

the door several times during the sanding pro-

cedure

ensure that you are not removing

If the binding area is at the
bottom, or close to the hinged side of the door
where the sanding block does not reach, or
you must remove more than 1/16 inch of
wood, dismount the door (page 59) and
too

to

much wood.

if

plane

it

(step 2).

Planing the binding edge. Place the

door

in

wood

a vise, protecting

or cardboard.

its

finish with

Use a properly

adjusted block plane or jack plane (page

13)

edge, shaving along the grain

(left). Keep even pressure on the plane and
use long shearing strokes, working from the
corners toward the center to ensure that the
to level the

ends
the

of the side rails don't splinter.

wood

often to test

60

Remove

sparingly, remounting the door

its

fit.

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

REPLACING A BROKEN PANE OF GLASS

Picking out loose shards. Before replacing a broken pane

in

a cabinet door, spread several layers of newspaper on the floor

around the cabinet. Wearing heavy work gloves to protect your

hands and safety goggles

to protect

your eyes,

pull

loose shards of

glass out of the door frame (above). Gently wiggle the fragments free,
but leave stubborn pieces of glass
thick layers of

in

the door.

Wrap

the fragments

in

newspaper and discard them.

Removing

the stubborn pieces. Open the door and wedge

cardboard under the bottom corner to stabilize it.
Unscrew the hinge leaves from the door and lift the door free of
the cabinet. Set the door on a work surface covered with newspaper.
The molding that secures a pane of glass is normally fastened to the
door frame with small finishing nails. To remove the molding, insert the
tip of an old wood chisel between the molding and the frame, close to
each nail head, and gently pry away the molding. Use a nail puller to
extract any nails that remain in the door. If the molding is in good condition, set
aside to reuse
If
is damaged during removal, replace
(step 3). Wearing work gloves, lift the broken glass out of the door
in several layers of newspaper and throw
frame, wrap
away.
Clean debris out of the glass groove.

wood

or

it

it.

it

it

it

it

Installing a

new pane. To

determine the size

of the

replacement pane, measure the

recess for the pane (above, left), then subtract 1/8 inch from each
dimension to allow for clearance. At a glass supplier or home improvement store, have a
replacement pane cut to these dimensions from 1/8-inch glass. If the molding was damaged during removal, buy replacement molding of the same wood and dimensions. Have the new moldings cut to size, or cut them yourself with a backsaw and miter box (page 1 15), matching the
length

and width

of the

miters of the original pieces.

recess

in

Wearing work gloves

to protect

your hands, set the pane into

the door (above, center). Position the moiding pieces over the

edges

of the

its

pane and

press the corners into place. Use a hammer to tap finishing nails every 5 or 6 inches through
the molding into the door (above, right), angling the nails to avoid hitting the glass. Remount
the door

on the cabinet.

61

DRAWERS. DOORS AND SHELVES

ANCHORING SHELF SUPPORTS

Remounting
ports

fit

into

loose pegs. Plastic,

a series of holes

wood and

drilled into the

metal peg-style shelf supsides of a shelving

They come

unit.

in a variety of shapes and are found in cabinets and bookcases with adjustable shelving. Metal spade pins and angled brackets
(inset) have a flat surface, offering greater stability than the round
dowel shown above.
the peg holes are worn, causing the shelf to
wobble, lift out the shelf and relocate the pegs either up or down from
the worn holes. To keep the shelf at the same height, pack the holes
(page 120) and drill new holes. (Manufactured pegs generally fit into
1/4-inch holes, but measure the peg diameter to be sure.) Use a rubber mallet to tap the peg into its hole (above),
necessary.
If

if

Securing a loose cleat. Large shelves that bear heavy loads often
on wood ledges called cleats, screwed to the sides of the cabinet.
With wear, the screws may loosen. Lift out the shelf;
the shelf is
nailed to the cleats, tap
up from below with a rubber mallet. Tighten
any loose screws holding the cleats (above).
the screw holes are
enlarged, unscrew the cleat and pack the screw holes (page 120). then
reinstall the cleat. To give the shelf extra strength, cut a 1-by-2 cleat to
run the length of its back edge.
the back panel of the cabinet is less
rest

if

it

If

If

than 3/4 inch

otherwise,

thick, attach the cleat to

drill

screw the cleat

pilot
in

with white or yellow glue;

it

holes through the cleat into the back panel and

place as for the side cleats.

Repairing movable

clips. Metal clips

and

the vertical metal tracks that they snap into

are a highly adjustable shelf support system

often found
units.

bent

in

bookshelves and modern wall

A wobbly shelf may be caused by a

or damaged clip, or a clip placed in the

slot. To remove a metal clip of the type

shown here from its track,
out the shelf,

wrong

lift

between the jaws of

up from its slots (left). Use

then squeeze the

clip

pliers and pull

two sets of pliers gently
it

a
buy replacement

to straighten

slightly

bent

clips to

match the damaged

clip (inset) or

clips.

the clip with pliers to remount

62

it

in

Squeeze
the track.

DRAWERS, DOORS AND SHELVES

REPLACING A DAMAGED SHELF

====_L

SHELF REPLACEMENT MATERIALS

Thickness and

-Wood

-^sv.

^~-~~~

\.

cleat

Shelf

__^____

Characteristics

Plywood

Available with a wide variety of hardwood veneers. Buy panel veneered on

both sides; add veneer edging.

Particleboard

Surfaced with a variety

|r-

II

wood

3/4"

veneers or

....

36"

smooth
Add veneer

variety of softwoods and hardwoods,

available in several grades. Buy kilndried boards that match cabinet. Apply
a clear finish to both sides and edges.

Glass

Clear or smoked, with beveled or

polished edges.

Acrylic

Available

and
-~^^

36"

3/4"

edging; paint or finish both sides.

Solid

of

plastic laminates, or with a

surface ready for painting.

maximum span

Material

translucent, transparent

Sand edges smooth

3/4"
1/2"

,,,,

24"
36"

1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
3/4"

36"
48"

24"
36"

with medium-grit, then fine, sandpaper.

P^~

if

in

tinted sheets.

Choosing a replacement shelf. Measure the old shelf to determine the dimensions of the replacement. Consider the weight
that the shelf will bear and the length
will span between supports, and refer to the chart above to determine the appropriate
replacement material. Have the new shelf cut to the length and width
of the old one at a lumber yard, home improvement store or glass supplier. If the back corners of the old shelf are notched to accommodate
the cabinet frame, have notches cut in the replacement at the same
time, or cut them yourself with a backsaw. To add veneer edging to a
plywood or particleboard shelf, go to step 3.
it

attached to a wood cleat

with screws or nails, remove them as described on page 63.
Lift the shelf, angle it to provide clearance and ease it out of the
Lifting out the shelf.

cabinet (above).
turn

it

over and

necessary.

If

If

If

the shelf

the shelf sags, but

reinstall

the shelf

is

it,

is

is

otherwise

refinishing the

bottom

badly damaged, replace

Veneered

in

first
it.

good

condition,

(page

96),

if

shelf

3Veneeering

the edge of the shelf. Use veneer in strip form, sold at hardwood lumber
match the front cut edge of a plywood or particleboard shelf to its veneered surface. Veneer strips are available unglued, or with a self-adhesive backing, or backed with
heat-activated glue that is ironed on. Buy a veneer strip of the proper width for the shelf's thickness, and a bit longer than the shelf. To apply unglued veneer, brush a thin layer of contact
cement on the back of the veneer and the edge of the shelf. Wait five minutes for the cement
to become tacky. Align the veneer strip precisely with the shelf edge and, starting at one end,
press
in place along the edge (above, left). Work carefully; once glued, the strip cannot be
repositioned. Allow the contact cement to set for two hours, then trim off excess edges with a
razor blade or very sharp wood chisel, taking care not to cut into the edge of the shelf. Use a
sanding block with medium-grit sandpaper to smooth the veneer edges (above, right). Refinish
the new shelf (page 96) to match the cabinet, and install the shelf.
stores, to

it

63

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
It

Everyday wear and tear subject upholstery fabric to soiling

and staining, but you can prevent much of the damage. Position upholstered furniture away from heat or direct sunlight.
Vacuum the fabric with an upholstery brush every week or

might surprise you to discover that the comfortable wing

newspaper is a multi-layered
system built of padding, fabric and springs supported by a
wood frame. The seat is a prime example of the system. A

chair you relax in to read the

stuffed cushion

is

often the

first layer.

Below

two and

fabric covers

it,

seat catches

The

fast to

of the chair.

that falls out

any stuffing

show

three upholstered chairs at right

springs

commonly used

coil springs are individually attached to the

bottom and require webbing to hold them

or drop-in. springs are manufactured in a

three types of

Hourglass-shaped

to support scats.

burlap

at the seat

in position.
set

Conical,

held together by

Sturdy wires or metal bars that run across their coils. The ends
of the bars or wires are anchored to the seat frame. The zigzag,
or serpentine, spring is a piece of tough steel wire shaped in a
scries of

down on

can be accomplished

done from the underside of the chair,

removal of the dust cover. Although the
repairs shown here arc carried out on upholstered chairs, they
ma\ he clone on line scats and solas as well.
the spring repairs,

onl\

with dust and stuffing

non-carpeted area.

When

bits,

so

setting

up

it

for the

the floor with

its

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Upholstery fabric stained

Spills not

PROCEDURE

cleaned immediately; fabric has no

Remove

HO;

stain (p. 66)

apply protective finish

(p.

protective finish

Upholstery fabric dirty

Grime, pollution, hair and body

oils

Vacuum and shampoo

Leather or vinyl upholstery dull

Grime, pollution, hair and body

oils

Clean leather or

Decorative trim loose

Glue

that holds trim

has

lost

Reglue

adhesion

Decorative tacks missing

Button on seat back loose

Button twine loose or broken

Seat sagging or lumpy

Stuffing

in

seat cushion deteriorated

(p.

Resew

68)

button to back
(p.

(p.

69)

DO
HO

67)

HO

Tighten webbing and add second layer

Webbing holding

coil

springs torn

Replace webbing

coil

H Moderate
than

hour

Retie springs

Have frame

Complex

yi

to 3

hours

(p.

Reconnect spring

wood frame
Easy

(p.

73)

Over

3 hours

74)
(p.

(p.

70)

BO

HO

Retie springs and replace webbing

springs broken

loosened from frame

iq

64

Replace decorative tacks

Restuff cushion

DO

66)

DO

springs stretched

Chair or sofa wobbly

ESTIMATED TIME:

vinyl (p.

trim (p. 67)

DO

coil

Twine connecting conical springs broken

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY

fabric (p. 66)

Webbing holding

Twine connecting

upside

bottom level, and prop it up with

sturdy supports. To avoid back injury, have someone help you
when moving heavy furniture. Protect the fabric by covering
the floor and supports with padding such as an old blanket.
Repairs to upholstered furniture are not expensive; all you
need are a handful of tools and supplies of the upholstery
trade, described on page 67, and a few tools from the basic
tool kit (page 113).

without removing the covering or disturbing the stuffing:

repairs that make it necessary to reupholster are not included.

Even

filled

is

in a well-ventilated,

for repairs to the underside of a chair or sofa, place

This chapter includes instructions for bolstering sagging

refastening loose trim and buttons and lifting stains

scats,

call

work

webbing to reinforce it; replace rotted webbing altoThe Troubleshooting Guide below directs you to these

and more.
Upholstered furniture

work

fabric. All these repairs

spills occur,

repairs

in

furniture built after 1950.

from upholstery

When

layer of
gether.

bends. These springs run parallel from front to

back beneath the seat stuffing. They are found extensively

turn the cushions regularly.

mop them up

(page 10). Follow the manufacturer's

instructions and the directions on page 66 to clean the fabric
and remove stains. Spray a clean chair or sofa with a soil
protectant (page 66) to help the fabric resist dirt and stains.
If a once-shapely seat develops an unsightly dip in the center, the problem may be a seat cushion that has lost its volume.
Replace dried-out foam stuffing with a new piece of polyurethane or latex foam, sold in several densities ranging from soft
to firm. A saggy seat may also point to misaligned springs or
overstretched webbing. Tighten old webbing and add a new

from the
springs. Strips of webbing may support the springs from
beneath. Finally, a dust cover tacked to the very bottom of the
layers of stuffing, then burlap separates the stuffing

(p.

73)

HO

HO
75)

HO

repaired and chair or sofa reupholstered

66)

DO

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

Upholstery

Woven

fabric, leather or

vinyl fitted

snugly over
and a

cotton padding
layer of burlap;

seams

often finished with piping

Foam
Polyurethane and latex
foam are the most common
types of stuffing in modern
cushions, replacing the
kapok or springs and felt

used

in

older furniture.

Coil spring
Heavy wire springs,

narrow in the
middle and wide

Seat cushion

batting; older

may

cushions

contain springs.

position; supported

Seams

by webbing.

often finished with decorative

piping

a fabric-covered

sewn

cord

at

both ends. Tied

together with twine
to hold them in

Usually a solid piece of

foam covered with polyester

into the

seam.
Seat frame
The dust cover

and webbing are

tacked to the
bottom edge of

Buttons

the seat frame.

Decorative; often

covered with matching

upholstery fabric.

May

be pulled tightly into the

back to give a tufted
look and keep the
stuffing

from migrating.

Zigzag spring
Also called no-sag
springs, these
crimped wire strips
stretch across the
seat bottom and

are attached to
the frame with
metal clips. Found
in

post-1950

furniture

Conical spring

Cone-shaped

Do

not

require webbing.

coil

springs, held by
rigid

bars.

metal wire or

Do

not require

webbing support.

Trim
Decorative braid,
known as gimp,
covers upholstery
tacks or staples that
fasten fabric to

Seat frame
The dust cover and webbing
are tacked to the bottom edge

exposed woodwork

of the seat frame.

Seat frame
The dust cover and webbing
are tacked to the bottom
edge of the seat frame.

65

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

CARING FOR UPHOLSTERY FABRICS

STAIN-LIFTING

PROCEDURES
Solution

Stain

Sequence

Alcoholic beverages

2.4

Blood

2.3

Candle wax. crayon

1.2

Chocolate,

2,3,4

fruit

juices, soft drinks

2,4,

Coffee, tea

Grease,

oil.

unknown

stains

it

1.2,3,4

water

Removing and preventing fabric stains. The longer a stain remains in the fabric of upholstered furniture, the more difficult it is to
remove. When you discover a stain, look for a tag on the chair or
sofa listing the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations. If there is
no tag. use the chart at left to determine the cleaning solutions to use
on a stain and the order in which to apply them. Before applying each
cleaning solution to the stain, test its effect on the fabric: Dab several
drops of the solution in an inconspicuous area and blot with a clean
cloth. If the fabric changes color or the dye bleeds, have the furniture
professionally cleaned. If the fabric color does not react, apply the
solution to the stain with a clean cloth, working from the outside edge
of the stain toward the center. Do not overwet the fabric. Blot the area
by placing a clean, dry, absorbent cloth on the stain and patting it
gently. Allow the fabric to dry.

Cosmetics, furniture polish,

Ice

ink,

shoe polish

cream, milk

1,2,3
2, 3. 4,

2,4,3

Wine

after several applications the stain

If

does not fade, repeat the procedure with the next recommended solution on the chart. Dry-cleaning fluid and ammonia can burn skin and
eyes; when using them, wear rubber gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Dry-cleaning fluid is flammable; do not use
near an open
it

flame or while smoking.

Cleaning Solutions
1

Dry-cleaning

fluid,

available at grocery

and hardware stores

teaspoon mild colorless dish detergent mixed with

cup water

A protective chemical coating can prevent fabric stains. Buy a sprayon soil protectant at a furniture store or home-improvement center, or
have the furniture sprayed professionally. Follow the protectant manufacturer's instructions.

teaspoon ammonia mixed with 1/2 cup water

/3

cup white vinegar mixed with 2/3 cup water

Cleaning woven fabric and leather. Before

shampooing the fabric of an upholstered chair
or sofa, remove dust and surface dirt with a

vacuum cleaner brush attachment (far left).

Use a commercial upholstery shampoo. Pretest the shampoo on an inconspicuous area
of the fabric (above);

if

the color runs,

do not

use it. Spray the foam on an area, then with

a soft, clean cloth, scrub
into the fabric with
parallel strokes, overlapping each stroke to
avoid streaks. To remove dirty suds, wipe the
area with a clean, slightly damp towel. Let the
it

fabric dry. then rub

vacuum

or

When
its

sheen, dust

damp

use a
it

to

briskly with

it

a clean towel

again to raise the nap.

old leather upholstery begins to lose

original

bing

it

cloth to

it

with a soft cloth, then

work

a lather (near

in

left).

saddle soap, rub-

Wipe

off

excess

saddle soap with a second damp cloth, then

polish the leather with a soft, dry cloth. To restore dry leather, pour lanolin or castor oil into
a glass jar and warm in a pan of warm water.
it

Wipe on

and alsoak in for 24 hours. Buff the leather

with a second cloth. To clean new leather or
low

it

vinyl,

the

oil

with a clean, soft cloth

to

wash

the surface with a solution of mild

soap and warm water,

rinse

and

dry.

Remove

stubborn stains with a solution of water and

baking soda, rubbing gently with a soft cloth.

Do

66

not apply

ammonia

or abrasives.

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

UPHOLSTERY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

Upholstery skewers
Long pins with a ring
at one end hold the

Basic upholstery repair kit. The venerable

upholstering has developed its own
unique set of tools. Pictured at left are some

art of

Double-pointed needle
For sewing buttons on a chair or sofa back; makes an

invisible stitch.

simple tools and supplies useful

fabric in place during

to

sewing.

OOOO
OOOO
OOOO
OOOO
OOOO

Curved needles
Used when you
can sew from only
one side

of the

fabric.

Decorative tacks
Secure trim and
decorate upholstery.

Claw chisel
For prying tacks
out of frame.

Upholstering tacks

Use No. 12

(3/4 inch) to attach

(3/8 inch) to

webbing and No. 3

attach the dust cover and fabric.

Jute twine

To

tie springs
together and sew

Tack hammer
For tapping tacks into
frame. Magnetized head
picks up and holds tacks.

them

to

webbing.

Webbing

Nylon twine
Fine three-ply twine for
restitching cushions.

Webbing stretcher
Pulls webbing taut, so
can be secured tightly

it"

to

Button twine
Four-ply nylon tufting twine
sewing buttons.

The metal

is

best

for the repairs

in this

chapter.

webbing stretcher puncture the webbing, allowing the strip to be pulled

tightly. The rubber-covered head rests snugly
against the frame without slipping or marring
the fabric. The long, narrow head of a tack
hammer allows you to tap tacks into tight corners of the frame; the magnetic end is for picking up and placing a tack and the opposite end
is for driving
in. To simplify picking up tacks,
spread them out on a flat surface. Many tools
from a regular woodworking kit also come in
handy, including a flexible steel measuring tape
to measure the frame and all-purpose white
teeth of a

it

glue for regluing loose

Strips of jute in widths of 3, 3 1/2

or 4 inches. Quality webbing is
firm and closely woven.

the seat frame.

upholstered furniture shown

trim.

Also useful are

sewing scissors and a thimble

to protect your thumb. Needles, skewers and
other tools of the trade can be obtained at an
upholstery supply store. Decorative tacks and
twine are available at hardware and home
improvement stores. Buy foam for restuffing
cushions at an upholstery or foam supply store;
polyester batting can be found at fabric stores.
strong, sharp

for

RENEWING DECORATIVE EDGING

^Tack hammer

Regluing loose decorative trim. If the ornamental braid, or gimp,

between the upholstery and frame comes
unglued, pull
back from the chair and apply a thin line of white glue

that finishes the joint

it

down the center of the trim (above). Press the trim evenly into position. To secure the trim to the frame while the glue dries, tap 1/2-inch
gimp tacks partway into the trim, carefully inserting their points into the
weave of the trim. Wait 24 hours, then use a claw chisel gently to pull
out the tacks.

Replacing decorative tacks. To replace missing decorative tacks that

upholstery to the frame, use a claw chisel to pry a sample tack
from the chair or sofa. At a hardware or upholstery store, buy matching
tacks. If matching tacks are not available, buy enough tacks to replace
the entire set. Using a tack hammer, tap the decorative tacks into the
you
edge of the fabric in a straight line (above), spacing them evenly.
are replacing the original tacks, pry up each old tack and replace
one at a time.

join the

If

it.

67

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

SEWING ON A BUTTON

2
1

A double-pointed upholstery needle can

resew a button on a chair or sofa back upholstered

Inserting the needle.

be used

to

with a sturdy, large-weave fabric. For a very delicate fabric, consult

a professional.

Use

scissors to clip

away

the twine holding the

loose button to the chair or sofa and pull out any loose pieces of twine.
Thread 4 feet of button twine through one eye of the needle. Insert the

unthreaded

tip of

Making an unseen

Keeping the threaded end

stitch.

of the

needle inside the back, angle the threaded tip to one side by 1/2
inch and push it toward the front of the chair or sofa, doubling

the thread back toward the front of the chair. Guide the threaded

tip

through the fabric at the

and

front, right

next to

pull

through the free end of the twine.

the

ends

of twine until they are of

its

entry point (above)

Remove

even

the needle and pull on

lengths.

the needle into the fabric at the button's original posi-

care not to break threads in the fabric. Push the

needle through the stuffing and out the back of the chair or sofa, stopping just short of pulling the threaded end through the fabric.
tion (above), taking

-^A o
Button

______^

Loop

Jas

s.
s^~-^N/

^
I

Pz

mi the button, rhread the button onto one end of the twin, and push up
Bft) Tie an upholsterer's slip knot with the twine ends Make a
id lay the loop over the other end of twine. Feed the twine end
loop with
wilfi the loop up through the loop (above, right), then pull
all the way through. Push the knot
nHI ti"' button NMtS .lqainst the fabric as tightly as the other buttons on the
Wr.ip |ho bote ''"ds of twine several times around the back of the button, then tie
a knot and clip the loose ends of twine close to the button
I

jring

it

it

68

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
GIVING

NEW SHAPE TO A SAGGING CUSHION

/,)

Serrated
knife

[i^-^.

7
Removing the old stuffing. Measure the cushion's dimensions.
Buy a piece of polyurethane or latex foam; possible, have the
foam cut to the required dimensions (step 2) at the store. Also
buy a piece of polyester batting large enough to wrap around the foam.
the cushion cover is zippered, open the zipper, remove the old stuffing and go to step 2.
the cushion cover is stitched, examine all four
sides for a hand-stitched seam; this seam will be easier to open than
a machine-stitched seam. To open the seam between the piping and
the side panel, cut the thread at one corner and pull the thread to
unravel the seam from corner to corner. Or run a seam ripper slowly
along the seam just below the piping (above).

if

If

If

Wrapping

the

foam

in batting.

layer of polyester batting

will

wrap the batting up and around the foam

and hand-stitch the ends together (above).
Restuffing the cushion takes time and
patience; hold the cushion cover open and
push in the new stuffing with seams facing

ting,

filling

one corner

a time. Rezip a zippered cushion cover.

restitch

a seam, go to step

is soft,

Cutting the foam to fit. Set the foam on a work table. Lay the
cushion cover on the foam and trace the outline of its top panel
with a fine-point felt marker. Add 1/2 inch all around if the foam
and

1/4 inch

if

the

rated knife to ensure that

foam
it

is

firm.

Wet

the blade of a broad, ser-

To cut
upward stroke

slides smoothly through the foam.

the foam, hold the knife upright

and

cut only on the

(above): a sawing motion tends to give a jagged edge.

An

electric

carving knife can also be used to cut foam.

protect

the foam from disintegration and minimize lumpiness. Place the foam on the bat-

the rear of the cushion,

at

To

Making

seam

stretcher.

A homemade seam

the cushion cover taut so that you can resew

it

stretcher holds the unstitched

evenly. Place the cushion on a

edge

of

wood work

surface or a plywood sheet that you don't mind marking with tacks. Push an upholstery
skewer straight down deeply into the corner of the cushion at one end of the open seam. Tie 15
to 20 inches of nylon twine to the skewer ring. Tap a tack halfway into the work surface 8 to 10
inches from the skewered corner. Loop the twine tightly around the tack, then drive in the tack
to secure the twine. Partially tap in a second tack beside the first one, loop the twine around
in the opposite direction, making a figure eight, then drive in the tack fully. Repeat this procedure
at the opposite corner (above), drawing the seam edges taut.
it

4.

69

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
GIVING

NEW SHAPE TO A SAGGING CUSHION

(continued)

Stitching the seam. To hold the

seam in position, pinch together the

seam allowance of the piping and the

seam allowance

ot the side panel. Insert a

skewer through them and push back out

through the side panel. Insert skewers every
2 or 3 inches to close the seam. Thread
nylon twine on a curved needle and knot the
twine at the long end. Begin stitching at a
it

corner.

From the ouside of the cushion, insert

edge of the side panel

the needle into the top

and curve

it

back out the top edge, forming a

1/4-inch stitch. Next, cross to the piping

and

needle in the fabric just beneath the

piping cord, across from where the thread
emerges from the side panel. Curve the
needle back out, forming a 1/4-inch stitch
(left). Pull the thread through and cross back
to the side panel. Continue stitching in this
manner (inset) until you reach the end of the
insert the

seam. Remove the skewers as you go. Tie

a knot to secure the thread, and cut off the
thread next to the fabric.

FIRMING AND REINFORCING OLD WEBBING

II

KDOfing the webbing. Cover the

work area with an old

floor of the

blanket to protect the upholstery.

Working with a helper the piece is

heavy, bend your knees to support your
back and turn the chair or sofa upside
down. Prop on padded supports so that
the bottom is level Use a rubber mallet
and claw chisel to pry up the tacks holding
the dust cover to the frame (above). Set
lust cover, then pry up the tacks
if

it

holding the upholstery fabric to the frame,

and gently fold it back

Tightening up old webbing. To prepare a solid foundation for a second, reinforcing,

webbing strips one by one. Tighten the vertical strips first.
Use the claw chisel and rubber mallet to pry up one end of the center vertical strip. To
temporarily lengthen the old webbing, cut a 12-inch strip of new webbing, overlap its end with
the old webbing by 2 inches, then fasten the strips together with two upholstery skewers, as
shown. Set the head of a webbing stretcher against the edge of the frame and wrap the webbing over the teeth of the stretcher, so the teeth puncture the jute. Push down on the stretcher
handle to tighten the webbing (above) and tap three tacks through
into the frame. Release the
stretcher and pull out the skewers to detach the extension piece. Fold the end of the webbing
over the tacks and hammer in three more tacks through the double layer of webbing Tighten
layer of webbing, tighten the old

it

the remaining vertical strips the

strips

If

webbing

70

same way.

is tight,

go

to step

then repeat the procedure to tighten the horizontal

remove and replace it (page 73). Once the old

3 to stretch a second layer of webbing over the springs.

the webbing tears as you tighten

it.

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

AND REINFORCING OLD WEBBING

FIRMING

(continued)

Tacking down vertical webbing. To add a second layer of

webbing, buy a roll of 10-ounce jute webbing from an upholstery
supply dealer; 6 yards will reweb a typical chair. Attach the vertical strips of webbing to the frame first, then weave in the horizontal
strips. To begin, position the new webbing over the center strip so that
its end overhangs the frame back by 1 inch. With a tack hammer, tack
the webbing to the frame back (above), placing five tacks in a staggered pattern to create a
shape. Next, fold the inch of overlap over

Stretching the webbing. To

pull the webbing taut across the

head of the stretcher against the outer
edge of the chair and wrap the webbing over the teeth of the
stretcher, so the teeth puncture the jute (above). Press down on the
stretcher handle until the webbing is stretched tightly.

springs, set the rubber

and hammer three more tacks through the double layer of

webbing (inset), then press the fold flat. Go to steps 4 and 5 to stretch
and secure the webbing to the front of the frame. Do not cut the strip
from the roll until
has been secured to the front of the frame.
the tacks

it

.-Tack

hammer
^V_^J f

s^5
^C>^^s&.
<c>"p^*^\

^^JgSS^S^V^'.Z-

^^To 7^

~^-\

E^ilfe

:=

^/v

<^^
^utfn

N<d
7

Im~"~-~*

^JK

wr

^^

^^[s^Z^

Securing the webbing. Holding the webbing tight with the

webbing stretcher, use the magnetic end of the hammer to pick
up five tacks one at a time, and tap them through the webbing
into the frame in a
pattern (above). Release the webbing from the
stretcher, then with scissors cut off the webbing from the coil 1 inch
beyond the frame's outer edge. Fold the inch of overlap over the tacks
and hammer in three more tacks through the double layer of webbing
as in step 3, then press the fold flat. Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 to tack,
stretch and secure the remaining vertical strips.

Tacking down the horizontal webbing. Tack, weave, stretch

and secure the horizontal strips one at a time. Begin by laying
the new webbing over the center horizontal strip with its end
overhanging one side of the frame by 1 inch. Tack the webDing to the
frame as in step 3. Fold the inch of overlap over the tacks and tap in
three more tacks (above), then press the fold flat.

71

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
FIRMING

AND REINFORCING OLD WEBBING

(continued)

Weaving the horizontal webbing. Cut the unattached end of the webbing, allowing
10 inches of overhang at the other side of the frame. Weave the webbing across the vertical

strips, passing
over one strip, under the next and over the next (above, left). Once the strip
reaches the other end of the frame, wrap the end over the webbing stretcher and pull the strip taut
(above, right). Tack down the webbing as in step 3. Weave in the remaining horizontal strips following the instructions in steps 6 and 7. To fit webbing around legs, go to step 8.
it

81

webbing around a

a row of springs is placed

webbing over the springs and
no end of the webbmq to
nround a leg. Slit the end of the
webbing and drive two tacks to secure to the frame around the leg.
ID in two more tacks through the
Mtheoppo
ime. cut the webbing to
allow 10 m<
over and under the vertical
.villi the webbing stretcher, then tap in
a tack
to seci.
Cut the webbing
inch beyond the
Itting

leg.

'

tit

it

>nd

and

di

start

again at the middle and work toward the other leg. For a tight
you tack it. Repeat the procedure at each side

ime (above). To

part

ough the

fit

fit.

of

the dust cover around a leg, cut into the cor-

ner of the fabric, then fold

v

72

If

it

stretch the cover as

the frame

placing the tacks 2 inches apart. Stop 2 inches before reaching the leg.

it

Covering the webbing.

Pull the upholstery fabric up around

and tack in place.
the original dust cover is too
worn to be reused, buy replacement fabric of the same dimensions as the old cover. Fold the new fabric on all four sides to make
a finished edge and iron the folds. Tack the dust cover onto the frame:
Start at the middle of one side of the frame and work toward the leg,

it

of

it

in

and tack

it

down

next to the leg.

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

RETYING COIL SPRINGS AND REPLACING WEBBING

Old webbing

f^^^\

Removing

the old webbing. Set the

down on padded

chair or sofa upside

supports so that the bottom is level,

and remove the dust cover and upholstery

{page

fabric

rjj^T*V\r\

away

^^S^i\

step

70,

1).

Use

springs.

Do

not cut the twine linking spring to

spring. With the claw chisel

&&

and rubber malwebbing to

pry up the tacks holding the

let,

\ \^~-~^T^^^

scissors to clip

the twine holding the webbing to the

the frame

(left).

Turn the chair or sofa upright

shake out loose dust and stuffing. If the

twine that links a row of springs and anchors
to the frame is broken, retie the springs
(step 2). If the twine is intact, go to step 3 to
to

(5v

Lc^^5

^^^^^^

it

ir^

replace the webbing.

Anchoring the springs. Cut

the broken twine

and pry up the tacks holding

to the frame.

Cut a new piece of twine

than the width of the frame.
to the frame, tap

point

end

it

1/2 times longer

To secure

a tack halfway

where you removed the

the

into the

old twine.

new

frame

twine
at the

Loop one

around the tack, then drive in the tack.

Tap in a second tack beside the first tack and loop
in the opposite direction, forming
the twine around
a figure eight (inset). Drive in the second tack. Pull
of twine

it

the twine firmly to the

first

around the closest part

spring

in

the row. Tie

of the top coil, pull

it

it

across

coil and tie

again. Use one hand to push down
on the spring, keeping as vertical as possible, and

the

it

it

pull

the knot tight with the other hand. Pull the twine

across to the next spring

in

the row and continue

same way

Once you have

anchor the twine to
the frame, making a figure eight around two tacks,
as before. Repeat the procedure to replace other
rows of broken twine, both horizontal and vertical.
tying the twine the

(left)-

tied the final spring in the row,

Laying down new webbing. Buy a

roll

of

10-ounce

jute

webbing from an

upholstery supply store: 6 yards

will

reweb an average chair. Tack, stretch and

secure the new webbing (left), following the
procedure outlined on pages 71 and 72.
steps 3 through 8. Position and weave the
replacement webbing in the same pattern
as the webbing you removed. Make sure that
the strips sit squarely on the top coils of the
springs, so you can sew the webbing to the
springs (next step).

73

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

RETYING COIL SPRINGS AND REPLACING WEBBING

(continued)

Sewing the webbing to the springs.

To anchor the springs to the intersect-

ing strips of webbing that cover them,

thread a curved needle with about 3 feet of

To begin, insert the needle through

two layers of webbing on the inside of a
spring coil near the frame, and bring
up
through the webbing on the outside of the
coil. Pull the thread most of the way through

jute twine.

it

the webbing and

tie its

end securely. To sew

the spring to the webbing, use the curved

needle

around the top coil

each corner formed by the

to loop the twine

of the spring at

intersecting webbing. Continue stitching,

forming a square pattern of four stitches

over each spring (left), until all springs are

secured to the webbing. After the last stitch,
tie the twine and snip it near the knot. Retack
the dust cover, following the instructions on

page

72, step 9.

RETYING CONICAL SPRINGS

yy

~^*^C^^

Metal wire

'l

\L

**

~*LII

*"

^i\

ftx
s~~

\f

fj^8

twiners.

\/\ \ /

2*5vt <

Conical
sPr n9
'

\[*\

v^*\

-j

11

ifc^

l\ZZ/h

^
1

dace the chair or sofa upside down on a work

remove the dust cover (page 70. step 1) Rows of twine
hold Ihe springs in place where they rest against the underside of the
"it
m one spot, causing the springs to shift, cut
.iw.iy the broken piece ot twine and pry up the tacks that hold
on the
new piece of twines longer than the width of
Renewing

the link.

it

iifw.iy into the frame at the point where you

hen loop one end ol twine around the t.i

74

ind loop

the twine
2).
in

Drive

in
in

the opposite direction, forming a figure eight (page 73. step

the

second

the row (above,

left).

tack. Pull the twine firmly

toward the

Loop the twine around the closest

first

spring

part of the coil

and pass the twine through the loop, pulling tight. Slip the twine between the spring and the seat, loop around the other side of the coil
and pass the twine through the loop. Pull the twine tight (above, right)
and continue to the next spring in the row When the twine reaches the
it

it

opposite side of the frame, anchor it to the frame with two tacks as described above. Replace all worn twine the same way When finished,
the dust cover.

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

ANCHORING ZIGZAG SPRINGS

Reconnecting a spring. Zigzag springs

stretch across the bottom of the seat

and are

breaks or a spring works out of the clip, the

seat will sag. Invert the chair or sofa on a work surface (page 70, step 1). Buy a replacement clip and nails to secure it at an upholstery supply store. Set the new clip on the inside of
the frame close to the old clip, the single-hole side up and the looped end as close to the edge
of the seat rail as possible. Secure the clip by driving a nail into the single hole (above, left).
held to the frame with metal clips.

Pull forcefully

If

clip

on the unattached end of the spring and thread the hooked end into the loop of
To stretch a heavy zigzag spring, use locking pliers as a handle. Drive

the clip (above, right).

nails

through the three remaining holes

in

the clip to close

it

against the spring.

Tying the springs. When a

snaps loose,

it

may

spring

tear the twine that

broken

links the springs. Untie the

twine from the springs and pry up the tacks

on the frame. Measure the width

frame and cut heavy twine 1 1/2 times
longer than this width. To anchor the new
twine, tap a tack halfway into the spot on the
frame where the old twine was anchored.
Loop one end of the twine around and tap
that hold

it

of the

it

the tack

tap

in

all

the

it

and

way (page

drive

73.

in

step

firmly to the first spring

2). Pull

and

tinue tying

loop the

tie

it

the twine

around the

and the loop beside

Then pull
and tie
(near left), withthe springs out of position. Conthe twine to each row of springs

to the next spring

out pulling

first,

the tack the rest

closest loop
it

Next, partially

in (far left).

a second tack beside the

twine around
of the

way

it.

it

until
reaches the opposite side of the frame.
Anchor the twine to this side of the frame with
two tacks, as described above.
it

75

OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Climate and

lifestyle dictate

Short, active

summers

A light coat of car wax will keep the frame shiny and protect

our choice of outdoor furniture.

call for easy-to-store styles; in

warmer

regions, less portable furniture graces porches and patios year-

round. Pictured

at right are

four very different designs.

narrow vinyl straps on a

broken strap can be replaced using
a roll or strapping purchased at a hardware store. Wash soiled
straps with a solution of vinegar, ammonia and water. To
prevent rust, touch up nicks in the frame's acrylic coating with

grass

enamel

seat will break through.

sturdy, popular style features

tubular

aluminum frame.

rattan palm.

favorite since the 1950s, the portable, packable

woven

web

and a bit of patience, you can restore wicker at

home. Outdoor wicker furniture should be painted with exterior latex enamel. Wipe it clean from time to time with a soft,

chair

craft stores,

frame. Torn or frayed webbing can be replaced using a

rewebbing

kit. First,

damp

inspect the soundness of the frame. Also

To

brighten an unpainted frame, scrub

it

brightener, then rinse with

warm

cast-iron furniture

is

ornate pieces of iron bolted together and painted.

created by

Keep

rust at

bay by regularly touching up chipped spots with rust-resistant

metal spray paint; apply a commercial rust remover to any rust
spots. To reveal hidden detail, strip the piece with a chemical
paint remover, then repaint with rust-resistant enamel.

with a non-

abrasive scouring pad dipped in kerosene or commercial alu-

minum

cloth.

The Victorian elegance of

compare the cost of a new chair to the cost of a rewebbing kit;

you may prefer to replace rather than reweb an inexpensive
chair. If you do reweb, do the entire chair rather than a single
strap.

fiber rush or sea

wicker fibers to snap or come unglued

typically, a woven
With replacement fibers available at

aluminum

across a folding

Wickerwork of twisted paper,

not usually suitable for outdoor use because water

is

unravels the strands. Exposure to the elements can cause

paint.

has wide nylon webbing

water and dry well.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE

Frame and strapping d irty

Exposure

Wash

Straps stretched or brc iken

Heat from sun and stress on seat

SYMPTOM
VINYL STRAP

to

weather

ammonia and water

with a solution of vinegar,

Replace damaged straps

78)

(p.

WEB
Frame

joints stiff

Joints

need

Webbing

Exposure

dirty

Webbing frayed

or

broken

Wear and

to

Spray

lubrication

Frame corroded

joints with silicone lubricant

and wipe with dry

cloth

Scrub with non-abrasive scouring pad dipped in kerosene or

aluminum brightener, rinse and dry, then polish with car wax

or dirty

Wash

weather

tear;

exposure

to

Remove webbing and reweave

sun

and scrub brush

with detergent-and-water solution

chair

(p.

79)

BO

WICKER
Exposure

Finish dirty

to

Wash

weather

Do
Binding cane unraveled from

Glue bond or binding cane broken

willow or rattan with a mild detergent-and-water solution.

not soak twisted-fiber (sea grass or fiber rush) furniture

Reglue or replace binding cane

(p.

80)

DO

Iramework
Seat broken

Fibers

weakened by wear and

exposure
Paint

worn

Wear and

to

tear

and

Remove

old fibers

and weave a new seat

(p.

80)

weather

tear;

exposure

to

weather

Sand, clean and repaint

(p.

82)

B#

CAST IRON
Finish rusted

in

spots

Exposure

to

Remove

weather or water

rust with rust

remover or

steel

wool and touch up with

spray paint

B#

Finish badly rusted

ExpOMira

to

wc.iiher or water

Strip

Bolt at joint rusted

Exposure

to

weather

Replace with corrosion-resistant nut and

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:
ESTIMATED TIME:

76

or watei

Easy m Moderate
Less than 1 hour w

and repaint

(p.

83)

Complex
1

to 3

hours

it

from corrosion.
Wicker is a general term for furniture woven of pliable plant
fibers. Fine old wicker was made of willow woven around a
wood frame; most modem wicker is woven from strips of the

Over 3

hours (Does not include drying time)

bolt (p.

83)

DO

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

WEB CHAIR

VINYL-STRAP CHAIR

Webbing
Interwoven strips

Strapping
Narrow strips of sturdy
vinyl held in attachment

of nylon or vinyl

attached to the

frame with screws

slots in the frame.

or metal clips.

Expensive models have

strapping attached to the

frame with

Plastic glide
Protects the bottom
of the leg from wear

plastic rivets.

Frame

Frame

Lightweight

Usually a stackable
aluminum frame, welded
at the joints. May have a

welded
folding

steel

aluminum frame
folds for carrying

and storage. Joints

frame or a

held together by

aluminum frame.

screws and

rivets.

Spoke

WICKER CHAIR

Round reed, usually cut from

the rattan palm; forms the
skeleton of the piece. Runs
vertically:

top to bottom

chair back,
in

and

front to

CAST-IRON CHAIR

a
back
in

a chair seat.

Joint

Nut and

bolt

a leg to the
seat and the
seat to the chair
back. Tighten a
loose bolt with a
screwdriver and

join

Frame
Made of wood
or rattan.

wrench.

Binding cane
Decorative strips
of rattan

wrapped

around frame;
conceals joints
and nail heads.

Horizontal reed
Flat reed, usually cut from
the rattan palm; woven

horizontally (side to side)

through the spokes.

77

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

REPLACING VINYL STRAPPING

2
1

Measuring for a new strap.

of

replacement

worn

Cutting away the damaged strap. To remove a stretched or

broken vinyl strap, set the chair upside down, then with a utility
knife slice the strap where
enters the attachment slot (above),

strap.

the distance from

subtract

At a hardware store, buy a

vinyl strapping the

same

roll

width and color as the

To calculate the length of the new strap, measure

one attachment slot to the other, as shown, then

inch so the strap

will

stretch taut

when secured

to the frame.

it

taking care not to nick the frame's coating.

the hollow frame

will fall

The piece

of strap inside

loose, leaving the slot clear. Cut

strap on the opposite side,

if

it

is

away

the

not already detached. (On a chair

with plastic rivets, pry out the rivets with a screwdriver.)

Preparing the

WH

strap.

Use

scissors to cut the

new

strap

required length With an awl. pierce a hole 1/4 inch from

each end in the center of the strap (above, left). To soften the
;o you can stretch
tightly across the seat, soak
in boiling
it

screw

78

Work

quickly to install the strap while

is still

hot

and
v

and tap

in

the

frame with a rubber mallet.) Have a helper

hold the chair while you pull hard on the strap, stretching it around the
frame until the second screw reaches the opposite attachment slot.
Tighten the screw in the slot to secure the strap to the frame. Repeat
the procedure for any other worn straps.
strap

it

it

into

ing the strap with plastic rivets, insert the rivet through the hole

lor 10 mini
g rubber gloves to protect your hands
from the hot vinyl, use tongs or pliers to pull the strap out of the water

ph.ihli'

new strap. Push a sheet-metal screw through

each end of the strap. Use a screwdriver to drive the
an attachment slot in the frame, as shown. (If attach-

Installing the
the hole at

it

into the

OUTDOOR FURNITURE
INSTALLING NYLON WEBBING

^\

\\\\J^tf//

\jx\ \\

///

^"""-"'"'--fc
// /

__

"III

^=^^^^~7i\

Measuring for the horizontal webbing. Working

at the back
use a screwdriver to remove the screws or pry off
the metal clips holding the webbing to the back frame. Loosen
rusty screws by applying a few drops of penetrating oil. Turn the chair
upside down and remove the screws or metal clips holding the webbing to the seat frame. Pull away the old webbing. At a hardware store,
buy a kit that includes a roll of webbing and screws, or webbing and a
package of metal rewebbing clips. To determine the length to cut the
horizontal straps, measure the distance from the attachment slot on
one side of the frame to its mate on the opposite side (above), then
add 3 inches if you are attaching the webbing with screws and 1 1/2
inches if you are attaching the webbing with clips. Cut the replacement
webbing with scissors. To install the webbing with screws, go to step 2;
to install it with rewebbing clips, go to step 3.
of the chair,

Attaching the horizontal webbing with screws. Fold one

end of the first strap twice to form a point (inset), then use an
awl or large nail to pierce a hole 1/2 inch from the tip of the
point. Set a screw in the hole in the new webbing and drive the screw
into the attachment slot at the top of the chair frame (above). Pull the
webbing across the frame and repeat the procedure to secure the
webbing on the opposite side. Install each horizontal strap the same
way, working down the back and the seat, then go to step 4.

Weaving

webbing. To determine the length to

measure the distance from the attachment
slot at the top of the frame back to its mate at the chair seat.
Add 3 inches attaching the strap with screws and 1 1/2 inches attawith metal clips. Use scissors to cut the replacement webbing
ching
into straps. Fasten the first vertical strap to the seat frame, using a
in the vertical

cut the vertical straps,

if

Attaching the horizontal webbing with metal clips. Wrap

3/4 inch of webbing over the smooth edge of the rewebbing clip.
Snap the clip onto the frame, covering an attachment slot at the
top of the chair (above). Pull the webbing across the frame and repeat
the procedure on the opposite side. Install each horizontal strap the
same way, working down the back and the seat, then go to step 4.

if

it

above) or a rewebbing clip (step 3, left). Weave the verand under the horizontal webbing on the
seat, pass the strap behind the bar at the seat back, then weave
over and under the horizontal webbing on the chair back. Attach it at
the top with a screw or rewebbing clip. Install each vertical strap the
same way, alternating the weaving pattern.

screw (step

tical

2,

strap alternately over

it

79

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

REWRAPPING A WICKER LEG

Mh
.

.Glue

j&sr\
XSfXl f-^\

/
Stv

Wrapping new binding

cane. To remove broken binding cane

upside down, peel off the damaged
cane and cut it off with tin snips. Take the old piece to a craft
supply store and buy binding cane of the same width and thickness; a
length of 2 feet per leg should be adequate. Hold the new cane under

warm

from a

leg, turn the chair

make

With a
the end of the cane to an inconspicuous spot
leg. near the joint. Wrap the cane around the
the nail and the cut end of the old cane, then
running water to

snugly around the

leg,

it

pliable.

overlapping

it

in

tack or small

nail,

secure

on the inside of the chair

once so that covers
continue wrapping it

leg

it

T7-

Kl J

-^ V A\\l

Attaching the binding cane. Dab the unattached end of the

wrap around the
leg once and secure
to the inside of the leg with a tack or
small nail. Use tin snips to trim the cane 1/8 inch from the nail. Wrap
masking tape around the end of the cane to hold down while the glue
sets. Wait three to four hours, then carefully peel off the masking tape.
Paint the new binding cane with a coat of white glue diluted with an
equal amount of water to seal the finish, then spray-paint the leg
(page 82) to match the rest of the chair.
binding cane with yellow glue (above), then

it

it

it

a spiral pattern (above). Stop

1/2 inch from the foot.

WEAVING A WICKER SEAT

1(

lutting

awaj the damaged

NaL

To guide you when recon-

pattern of the original seat, take a reference photo

draw a sketch before removing the damaged wicker. Count

the spokes round reeds that run front to back on the seat and note
ry follow
Use a nail puller (page 1 14) to extract any nails
holding the spokes to the frame. Clip out the broken seat with tin snips
or

pHtfl to

pokes extend

pull

out stubborn bits that remain

in

the frame,

and is also broken, cut away as

ie of the round reed spokes and one of the flat reeds to a
ipply store to match the wicker fibers; a one-pound coil of each
d tM plt'nty to we
>at.
into the skirl,

80

it

it

Inserting a new spoke. To determine

new spokes, measure the distance from

the length to cut the

the seat back to the

you are reweaving it.

spokes
of this length, then immerse the spokes in a large bucket of tepid water
until they are pliable. Soak round reed at least 10 minutes but no more
than 30 minutes; oversoaking will cause the fiber to split and fray. Pull
a spoke from the water, then use tin snips to nip each end into a point.
Slide a sharpened end into a gap between the frame and the horizontal weave at the back of the seat (above). If you wedge the spoke
firmly, gluing should not be necessary.
seat

and add 4

front,

to

then to the bottom of the

5 inches. With

tin

skirt

if

snips, cut the round reed into

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

WEAVING A WICKER SEAT

(continued)

/f
i

'Spoke

^
^/

^__^-^Z,

^-7^^-^'

Securing the spoke. Consult your reference photo or sketch to determine the exact pattern in
which the spokes were woven. On a chair of the style pictured here, run the first spoke to the
front of the seat, then bend
down around the frame and insert through the horizontal weave
of the skirt (above, left). Following the original pattern, curve the spoke down and insert the free end
through the weave at the bottom edge of the skirt, then curve the spoke back up toward the seat.
Install each spoke to correspond to the original pattern. While the spokes are still damp, secure them
to the frame at the front of the seat with small nails (above, right).
it

it

Weaving

in the flat reeds. Cut the flat reeds into lengths of 2 to 3 feet. To ensure flexisoak each reed in warm water for a maximum of five minutes. Wedge the end of the
first reed into the front right corner between the arm and the seat frame. Weave the reed
to the other side of the seat, duplicating the pattern of the original; in this case passing the reed
over the frame, under the first spoke and over the next. Continue the over-and-under weave,
using one hand to feed and the other to guide (above, left) until you reach the opposite side of
the seat. At the end of the row, loop the reed around the seat frame and use it to start a new
horizontal row, alternating the over-and-under pattern (above, right). Spray the reeds with an
atomizer from time to time to keep them supple. At the end of a reed, start a new reed, overlapping

bility,

it

with the previous reed for

two or three spokes. When the seat is complete, stick the final
it under two or th;ee spokes to secure it, then cut it off. Seal

down through the seat, weave

and paint the new wicker (page 82).
reed

81

OUTDOOR FURNITURE
REPAINTING A WICKER CHAIR

f
lyll

Scrub
brush

I jplk
!
fy^//

^\fl

k A I IWuMlffluH

Cleaning the surface. Wearing goggles to protect your eyes

flying paint chips, remove flaking paint with a wire brush.
Use fine sandpaper to smooth uneven areas, then rub the entire

from

surface with

medium

(1/0) steel wool.

Vacuum

the chair to get

dust and loose paint. To clean willow or rattan, scrub

it

rid

of

with a soft

brush dipped in a mild detergent-and-water solution (above), then rinse

it with a garden hose and wipe it dry.

new

wicker. To seal new, unfinished wicker and

weave before painting, use a paintbrush to apply
a thin coat of white glue mixed with an equal amount of water
(above). Allow three or four hours for the glue to dry completely.

Sealing

strengthen the

Spraying on the paint. Buy an exterior

enamel paint; a gallon should provide enough paint to apply two or three
latex

coats. Rent an airless electric paint sprayer

from a

tool rental

company. Stretch a double

and

layer of cheesecloth over a paint bucket

strain the paint into the bucket.

Pour about

ounces of paint into the sprayer's reservoir and screw the reservoir onto the gun.
Plug in the gun and set the pressure gauge to
medium. To ensure even application, use cardeight

board or scrap wood to test the sprayer; holding the nozzle 12 inches from the surface,
push the trigger and move the sprayer from

Examine the band of paint on

and readjust the setting until
produces an even coating.
is best to spray
paint outdoors. If you must spray inside, work
side to side.

the practice piece

it

It

a well-ventilated room. Protect the area

under and around the chair with a drop cloth
or newspapers. Wearing goggles and a respirator with a spray paint filter (page 1 14). spray
the underside of the piece first, then turn
upright and spray the back, arms, seat and
legs (left). Wait three to four hours for the paint
to dry completely, then apply a second coat.
Apply a third coat if necessary.
in

it

82

OUTDOOR FURNITURE
REFINISHING A CAST-IRON CHAIR

Stripping the old finish. Work outside, and protect your lawn
Wearing rubber
gloves, goggles and a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge,
spread chemical paint stripper on the chair with an old paintbrush. Wait
a few minutes, then test the paint with a putty knife; when it peels off
easily, scrape the surface with a stiff wire brush (above). Clean out
ornamentation and corners with an old toothbrush. Use a garden hose
to rinse away the debris. Apply rust remover jelly on the rusted areas
with the paintbrush, working the jelly into pitted spots, then scrape
away the rust with a toothbrush. Rinse the piece again, then wipe
dry. Scrub stubborn rust spots with steel wool to reveal clean cast iron.
Apply rust-resistant paint within an hour.
or patio with a drop cloth or sheets of cardboard.

it

Replacing a rusted

bolt. Before repainting the cast-iron chair,

inspect the hardware at the joints.

together, lay the chair on

its

If

bolt

and nut are rusted

side and spray on penetrating

oil

to

loosen them. Wait 10 minutes, then use a wrench and screwdriver to

remove the bolt and nut (above). Install corrosion-resistant replacements made of stainless steel or galvanized metal.

Painting the chair. Buy rust-resistant

enamel paint; one quart should
be enough for two or more coats. A few
brands of paint still require a primer undercoat;
exterior

read the manufacturer's instructions before

choosing the paint. Set the chair upside down
and, with a paintbrush, apply a thin coat of
enamel to the underside of the chair, making
sure to cover all unseen parts to protect them
from rust. Set the chair upright and paint the
rest of the chair, from top to bottom (left). Apply
two or three coats of paint, waiting at least four
hours between coats to allow the paint to dry.

83

REPAIRING SURFACES
Furniture surfaces are vulnerable to damage simply through
everyday use; sharp objects, food and drink, hot dishes, wet
glasses, burning cigarettes, and moving days are common
enemies. Although serious or extensive damage may require
the services of a professional refinisher, the homeowner can
successfully tackle

many

stores;

The chapter provides

problems such as

alternate solutions for certain repair

gouges, which can be done with a

filling

wax

shellac stick,

wood

stick or

To

putty.

disguise a shallow

you can use furniture dye, an artist's brush and colors

or a touch-up marker, depending on what you have at your
disposal. Or you can color the scratch with a cotton swab
dipped in shoe polish or iodine. Test the color on a hidden area
scratch,

surface flaws.

The repairs in this chapter range from simple methods for

removing accumulated grime and wax to more complicated
filling and patching techniques. Before jumping into a repair,
practice on a piece of scrap wood, then test any cleaning or
patching products on a hidden area of the finish. As you
become proficient at spot repairs, you may begin to undertake
specialized jobs that require professional supplies.

Wood

before treating the scratch. Start with a color slightly lighter

than the finish, and darken

Wood

it

with repeated applications.

many

veneer suffers

of the ailments that beset solid

wood; in addition, heat and moisture can make it peel off or

res-

toration products, such as shellac sticks or specially formu-

Damaged wood veneer may

blister.

neighborhood hardware

lated dyes, are often not available at

look in the telephone book to find woodworking stores

them, or ask about mail-order supply houses.

that stock

94).

require patching (page

laminate, a nonporous, easy-to-clean surface

Plastic

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE

Finish yellowed or sticky

Wax

Dissolve

Finish dirty or darkened

Layers

Finish dull but

undamaged

buildup

Polish

grime and wax

of

worn

Revive the

Exposure

to direct sunlight or heat;

Finish alligatored
(network of tiny cracks)

Exposure

to direct sunlight or heat; aging;

finish not

applied correctly

in finish

Wear and

to finish

Paper stuck to finish

Stain or

mark on

finish

aging

bottom of knickknack or

tear;

display item not

Candle wax stuck

padded

buildup

finish (p.
oil

or

86)

(p.

86)

mO;

wax and

Wax

with steel wool

Strip

and

DO;

Moisture or heat and pressure against paper

not cleaned immediately

Hot or wet object placed on

finish

has

left

oil

and

buff (p.

refinish surface (p. 96)

Polish with

oil

or

wax and

or

oil

wax and

buff (p. 87)

buff (p. 87)

DO

DO

DO
87) DO

buff (p. 87)

(p. 87) DO; disguise scratch with

touch-up marker (p. 88)

or furniture polish

furniture dye, artist's colors or

Dripping candles not shielded; vent blowing

on candles

Spill

new

Apply

off

Hairline crack in finish

Shallow scratch

wax

DO

Harden wax with plastic-wrapped

ice cube, then pry

it

off carefully

with a blunt knife; wipe off remainder with mineral spirits

Soak paper with mineral oil, then peel

4/0 steel wool dipped in mineral oil

with

DO

Lift

stain

Lift

white mark or ring

(p.

remove residue

off;

it

88)

(p.

DO

88)

white mark or ring

Water has soaked through

penetrated

Bare spot on surface

Finish

Crack, gouge or deep scratch

in surface

Wear and

Burn

in

surface

Lit

and

finish

and

Strip,

bleach and refinish surface

stain

worn through

tear; accidental

Refinish spot

Remove

charred

Accidental blow,

Veneer blistered

Veneer expanded by heat or moisture

Slit blister

Veneer gouged or burned

Accidental blow;

Patch veneer

lit

object

Wear and
weakened

Plastic laminate dirty or

Daily wear; minute scratches

or plastic laminate

sUmod
Marble

96)

tear, heat

HO;

and moisture have

refinish surface (p. 96)

shellac stick

90)

wood and

HO
fill

(p.

and reglue veneer

(p.

94)

Reglue veneer or

(p.

89)

depression

dent with water or steam

(p.

HO. wax

(p.

91)

stick (p. 90)

HO
93) HO

91)

plastic laminate (p. 93)

HO

glue bond

caused by

Clean laminate

(p.

95)

DO

ive cleaner

dirty or stained

Daily wear, surface corroded by acid or

'

84

Lift

cigarette

lifted

92)

Fill

cigarette
tailing

(p.

damaged area with

DO, or wood putty (p.

blow

Surface dented

(p.

wood

Wash

ive cleaner

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:

Easy

ESTIMATED TIME:

w Moderate
than

hour

Complex

W1 to 3

hours

Over 3 hours

marble, or apply poultice to remove stain

(p.

95)

DO

REPAIRING SURFACES

found on tables and cabinets, can also lift. If it does, glue it

contact cement. Treat marble with care; do not use

down with

and do not apply

To maintain the
with a

wood finish, dust it regularly

To bring up the sheen, buff it

allure of a fine

soft, dry, lint-free cloth.

When deciding whether to repair the surface or

and start afresh, consider the extent of the damage and
compare the cost in time, energy and money for a spot repair.
You can probably handle one or two small repairs, but many
sizable gouges and cracks in the finish may call for refinishing. However, if the furniture is a valuable antique, refinishing
may decrease its value; have the piece assessed by a profes-

occasionally by rubbing along the grain using a cloth moistened with furniture polish. Keep wood furniture away from
heat sources, such as direct sunlight and radiators, and try to
maintain an even temperature of 65F to 70F, and a humidity
level of 50 percent.
The tools and supplies for surface repairs (below) can be
hazardous. Wear chemical-resistant rubber gloves and work in
a well-ventilated area when using solvents or finishes of any
kind. Treat solvent-soaked rags with great care. Before throwing them away, stretch them outdoors on a clothesline to allow
the solvent to evaporate. Do not pile up oil-soaked rags to
await a weekly cleanup. Instead, soak the rags with water and

sional furniture restorer.

place them inside tightly sealed glass jars or metal cans.

alcohol, acid or coarse abrasives to clean

it,

acetone to synthetic marble.

You can save money by performing

mind

that a

more successful and

spot repairs, but keep in

longer-lasting result

is

some-

times achieved by stripping and refinishing the entire surface

(page 96).
strip

it

Mineral

oil

Alcohol burner

Excellent lubricant for

use with abrasives

such as

fine steel

OIL

For heating knife

seam

shellac stick.

roller

If

to melt

used with

denatured alcohol,
produces sootless flame.

Ideal for pressing

reglued veneer

wool, pumice or
rottenstone. Safe,

MINERAL

Wallcovering

into place.

inexpensive and
widely available.

rip
Touch-up marker
Available in many wood

<?=

MINERAL
SPIRITS

Mineral spirits

An

Rottenstone and pumice

V\\
Abrasive powders mixed with *
oil

for

colors,

J=D

these markers are used like a

pen to touch up blemishes.

polishing lacquered

Wax

or varnished surfaces.

stick

wax crayon made

wood colors. Fills

Soft

wax

Shellac stick

in

cleaner for

Professional
product for filling

finished furniture.

gouges

and disguises defects

but does not provide a
permanent repair.

Work area must

furniture without

effective

remover and

be well

in

removing

ventilated.

finished
finish.

wool

4/0 steel

Available in various
colors and sheens.

Fine-grade steel wool.

A gentle abrasive for
polishing finishes.

Powdered padding

stain

Often used with a

powder designed to
work in tandem with padding
finish to add color to spot
Stain

Boiled linseed

oil

Mixed with turpentine

to

make a wood

and

conditioner.

"boiled" linseed

cleaner

repairs.

lubricant

mineral

Artist's

Buy

brush and colors

Wood

Tiny brush holds small amouni

of color, allowing greater

oil,

which has been treated

so that it will dry.

such as

oil.

Zmr_

veneer

Sold in sheets or in
edge-trim strips. It

Experiment with color

mixing and application.

control.

may come unbacked,

or

have a peel-and-

stick or iron-on

backing.

Furniture dye
in various

alcohol

wood

Used

Available
to

colors.

Dab on

touch up scratches.

Denatured
in

of leveling

Usually has a built-in

compound,

applicator in

as

lid.

Felt block

place

Professional polishing tool soft enough not

a finish. Used to rub leveling

Leveling

compound over

Professional product

to scratch

or

shellac-stick repair.

designed

fuel for

compound
to

smooth

excess shellac stick

without scratching
surrounding surface.

alcohol burner.

Padding

finish
Professional product
designed to replace
finish over spot repairs.
Compatible with virtually
all

furniture finishes.

Wood

putty

Water-based putty does

not give off fumes; it
dries hard and cleans
up easily with water.

WOOD
PUTTY

Colored furniture polish

A pigmented oil that disguises
small blemishes and makes
surface appear smooth

85

REPAIRING SURFACES

REVIVING THE FINISH

p
1

h^

Washing
surface,

off dirt

first try

detergent and
formulated
shellac

sponge

for

wood

and grime. To

washing

it

clean a varnished or painted

with a solution of mild dishwashing

warm water
furniture

(or use oil soap, which is specially

and paneling). Since water tends to cloud

and lacquer, spot test the finish by dipping a soft, clean cloth
in the solution and wiping
on an inconspicuous surface.

or

it

Rinse away the detergent with a fresh cloth dipped in clear water, then
rub the spot dry with another clean cloth. If the finish turns white or
cloudy, clean the surface with mineral spirits instead (step 2).
ish

does not change

color, continue

If

the

washing, rinsing and drying one

small area at a time (above), taking care not to soak the surface.

remove a stubborn wax

surface, go to page 87.

buildup,

go

fin-

to step 2; to polish the

To

cleaned

Dissolving old

wax

buildup. To dissolve wax buildup or wash

a shellac or lacquer finish, use mineral spirits, a solvent. Wearing rubber gloves and working in a well-ventilated area, moisten

a clean cloth with mineral spirits and wipe the solvent sparingly onto a
small area of the finish at a time. Rub firmly to loosen wax and dirt,
then wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Remove old wax from turnings with
a tongue depressor or an ice-cream stick wrapped in a solvent-

soaked rag (above). Use a toothbrush soaked

in

mineral spirits to

clean fine details and carvings. Polish the cleaned surface (page 87);
if the finish has dulled with age, condition it (step 3).

///

^X

V
"

Steel wool

3<

leaning and conditioning the finish. Work outside or in a well-ventilated area. Wearrubber gloves, mix one part turpentine with three parts boiled linseed oil in a glass jar
with
hd Shake the jar well to mix the solution. Set a wide-mouth container on a metal
pie plate and fill the container with boiling water Slowly pour the boiled linseed oil solution into
the container of hot water (above, left) until the solution forms a 1/4-inch film on the water's
surface Do not stir Dip a clean cloth or. for deep cleaning, grade 3/0 steel wool, into the oily
film and rub the mixture onto a small area of the finish, stroking gently in the direction of the
:'it). Immediately wipe off excess conditioner with a warm,
moist cloth, then wipe

mq

it

with | dry cloth

cools, pour

it

same marmot
rags
ously

86

until

metal or glass container

been treated. As the mixture

and mix more conditioner in the

the entire surface has

for later disposal,

use a clean, dry cloth to rub the entire surface along the grain. Soak used
dispose of them in a sealed container to prevent them from igniting spontanethe surface is still dull or dry. wax
(page 87).

in w.iter
If

Repeat the procedure

into a
F

mally.

,ind

it

REPAIRING SURFACES

ADDING LUSTER WITH OIL

Achieving a quick polish. To restore luster
and emphasize the wood grain,
smooth on a coat of furniture polish, such as
lemon oil. Avoid polishes that contain silicone,

to the finish

which leaves a deposit that makes

ishing

dirty

later refin-

more difficult. Do not apply polish over

or waxed surface; first remove any build-

up (page 86). Dampen a soft, clean cloth with

polish and wipe
on the finish, along the grain
it

(left).

When

using a "scratch-removing," or

colored, furniture polish, force polish into the

scratches (inset) before applying the polish to

the entire surface. Buff with a clean cloth
buffing

is

recommended by

To increase the sheen, you can

power drill and lamb's wool pad

ADDING

buff with a

(below).

WAX FOR A PROTECTIVE SHEEN

Applying wax. Clean the surface by dissolving old wax with

Spoon a small amount of high-quality
-M- furniture paste wax onto a soft, clean cloth (inset), then fold the
cloth around the wax. Or, to work wax into the wood grain, dip a pad of
4/0 steel wool into the wax. Apply the wax on one small area at a time
(above). Use a clean cloth to wipe away the excess, rubbing along the
grain. When the surface is covered, allow the wax to dry, following the

1"^

if

the manufacturer.

mineral spirits (page 86).

"nanufacturer's directions for drying time.

Buffing the wax. Achieve a good sheen by rubbing the wax

soft, clean cloth. Alternatively, use a
lamb's wool buffing pad attached to a drill. Tie the pad securely
to its mount on the drill and tuck in the loose strings. Hold the drill perwith the other hand to maintain an even prespendicular, and steady
sure. Move the pad slowly along the grain of the wood (above). Press
lightly to avoid marring the surface, and angle the pad upward as you
approach the edges to avoid burning them.
vigorously by hand with a

it

87

REPAIRING SURFACES

LIFTING STAINS

AND WHITE RINGS

Removing a
abrasion,

in

stain with abrasives. Light

combination with a lubricant, will

erase a stain without damaging the finish. First

try dampening grade 3/0 steel wool or a
coarse cloth with mineral oil, and rub the ring
or spot gently (left), along the grain if possible.
Remove excess oil with a clean cloth. If the oil
alone is not effective, mix rottenstone with
mineral oil to form a soft paste, dip grade 3/0
steel wool into the paste and gently rub the
entire area along the grain. Check your progress after each light stroke. If, after several
strokes, the stain

is

not fading, slightly

increase the pressure of the stroke.

mark

is lifted,

damp

cloth,

clean cloth.

on the

DISGUISING SCRATCHES

~"

~Y^

^5^!

\~

i/7

TJ\\

Paint

Artist's

brush

""

Matching the

finish color. Furniture dye, artist's colors or a furniture touch-up marker can be
a scratch that has cut through the finish but not into the wood. Before applying
color, test the match on scrap wood or an inconspicuous area of the furniture. To use furniture
dye, begin with a light colored stain and darken the color by adding coats as necessary. Dip

used

to color

and wipe off the excess on the edge of the bottle, making
dye on the applicator. Use the tip of the brush to spread the dye along
few seconds to allow the color to soak in, then blot up excess
otton swab or the tip of a clean cloth. If you are using an artist's brush, blend the
until you have the desired shade. Wet the artist's brush with a very small amount
^ive. center), as described for furniture dye application. For
(frnw on color with a furniture touch-up marker (above, right) or

the applicator brush into the dye

sure there

le

dye with

very

little

ir

88

.i

pencil of the appropriate color.

wipe

off

then dry the area with a

If

finish,

Once

the

the excess paste with a

the treatment has

soft,

a dull spot
polish the surface (page 87).
left

REPAIRING SURFACES

PATCHING GOUGES AND CRACKS WITH A SHELLAC STICK

Alcohol burner

Heating the knife. Shellac

the

used by professional

sticks,

restorers, are particularly useful for

gouges on
a wide

buy a

of the finish,

Other supplies needed

block, leveling

small,

stick the

same

or satin

it

compound and denatured

on your

when

furniture. Carefully

in

alcohol,

scrape the

all

felt

available from a

on scrap wood before

damaged area

Dripping the shellac. Hold the shellac stick with its tip pointed
toward the area to be filled. Press the end of the heated knife
against the

ordering.

are a small alcohol burner, a

furniture refinishing supplier. Practice this repair

attempting

come

color or slightly darker than

and specify high-gloss

for this repair

furniture

deep cracks and

highly visible finished surfaces. Shellac sticks

variety of colors;

shade

filling

into the

gouge

of the shellac stick (above).

tip

pressed against the

stick long

enough

or crack, overfilling

and press the shellac

it

Keep

the knife

for the shellac to melt

slightly.

Wet

the

tip of

and

drip

your finger

into the

depression to remove any trapped

grain.

Use an ordinary

air.

clean

shop knife. Fill the alcohol burner with denatured alcohol which
produces a sootless flame adjust the height of the wick and light it.
Heat a grapefruit knife with a curved, flexible blade, or a palette knife,
by holding it over the flame for approximately 30 seconds (above).

with a

Leveling the patch. Reheat the knife and wipe across the
hardened shellac to level its surface, taking care not to touch the
surrounding finish. Wipe the knife clean with a rag after each
stroke. Allow the shellac to harden for a few minutes, then use a single-edged razor blade carefully to shave off any excess. Moisten one
side of a thick block of rubbing felt with leveling compound or denatured alcohol. Rub the felt block back and forth across the patch to
smooth flush with the surrounding surface (above). Wipe off the
it

Drawing fake

felt-tip marker, a profesbrush and paint to draw

grain lines on the patch. Practice first on a piece of scrap wood.
Make sure the color of the marker matches that of the wood grain.
Draw lines across the patched area, extending the grain pattern of the
surrounding wood (above). If the new grain lines are too sharp,
smudge them by rubbing gently with your finger or a cloth.

sional graining marker, or

an

artist's

it

excess leveling compound with a clean

cloth.

89

REPAIRING SURFACES

PATCHING WITH A WAX STICK

Rubbing

wax

in the

stick. Crayon-like

wax

sticks are available

hardware stores in a variety of wood colors. They are useful

for quick
though temporary repair of scratches, gouges and
dents. First, scrape the depression clean with the tip of a knife. Soften
at

tip of the wax stick in your fingers, then rub it from side to side
across the depression (above), pressing firmly to fill it in.

WOOD

Smoothing the patch. Use your finger or a soft cloth to press

wax deeply into the depression. Add more wax as you did in
step 1 rub until the depression is flush with the finish surface. To
clean excess wax from the surrounding finish, lightly dampen a clean,
the

soft cloth with mineral spirits

the

PATCHING WITH

and wipe sparingly around the patch

one hour and buff to luster.

(above). Allow the patch to harden for

it

PUTTY

Wood
putty

/
/

^
-

-^ .J
-^

^""---^

-:

Tj

/
/
Putty knite

Killing B crack or gouge. Wood putty comes in premixed or

powdered form; some are pre-colored, while others are creamy
white and can be stained before or after application. Because

it

is

hard

to

disguise a

wood

putty patch, this material

for repairs to less visible surfaces.

mix the putty

is

recommended

Following the manufacturer's instruc-

necessary, and add stain

desired. Use a narrow
putty knife to spread wood putty from side to side across the defect
(above). Press in the putty firmly and overfill the area slightly to allow
for shrinkage Allow the putty to dry, following the directions on the
container If the patch shrinks below the surface, smooth more putty
ovor
tions,

it

90

if

if

Leveling the patch. When the patch is dry, use medium-grit

sandpaper to smooth
working in the direction of the grain.
Hand sand a contoured surface (above), use a sanding block on
a flat surface. Wipe away the dust with a rag. To add stain to an uncolored patch or to touch up the finish, go to page 92.

it.

REPAIRING SURFACES

REMOVING A CIGARETTE BURN

^^^
C(jp^<r

&\y
/)v/
./^

v(yAj

K?^

^5

Utility knife

Scraping away the charred wood. To

treat a cigarette burn in

use the tip of a utility knife to loosen charred
material in the burned area (above). Scrape out as much of the
charred wood as possible, taking care not to damage the surrounding
finish. Wipe away the loose fragments.

a wood surface,

first

Cleaning the depression. To bleach the burned area, dampen

a clean cloth with denatured alcohol and sponge
lightly. Apply
more alcohol until the gouged area lightens to match the surrounding wood. When the gouge is clean, fill it using one of the techniques shown on pages 89 and 90.

it

RAISING DENTS

Applying heat and moisture. To steam out

a depression, fold a clean, damp cloth into a
small square and lay
over the dent. Press
the tip of a hot iron against the cloth (above).
allowing the steam to penetrate the wood. Do
not allow the iron to touch the bare finish.
Check the results, and repeat the procedure
several times until the dent is raised.
it

Soaking a dent with water. To cure a shallow dent

or

compressed area

in

the

wood

surface,

water tends to produce

white spots on shellac and lacquer, first test the finish by touching water to a hidden spot. If the
finish becomes clouded, do not proceed with this repair. If the finish does not turn white, clean
grime and wax from the dented area (page 86) to allow the water to penetrate. Dip your finger
in water and allow several drops to fill the dent (above). Let the wood absorb the water. If the
wood does not swell enough to eliminate the dent, prick a few minute pinholes into the depres-

add water

to

make

the

wood

fibers swell to their original shape. Since

sion with a fine needle. Apply the water again

and allow

it

to

soak

into

the wood.

91

REPAIRING SURFACES

SPOT REFINISHING

Reapplying the original

trick to

finish.

The

touching up bald spots and unfin-

ished patches is to match the color and

sheen of the original surface.
you do not
have the finishing product that was originally
used on the surface, apply one of the commerIf

cial

spot refinishing products that are compati-

all finish types (step 2). If you

do have the original finishing product, first
select and prepare a stain to match the color of

ble with virtually

the surrounding surface, following the instruc-

on page 104.

When you have

achieved
brush into the
stain, then wipe the tip against a piece of paper
to remove the excess. Stroke or tap the stain
sparingly onto the repaired area (left, top),
avoiding color buildup near the edges. Consult
the chapter on refinishing for instructions on
wiping on penetrating finish (page 109), brushing on varnish or shellac (page 1 10) and spraying on lacquer (page 1 1 1). To blend the new
finish with the existing finish, dip a piece of 4/0
steel wool in mineral oil and polish the edges
of the newly finished area along the grain, in
tions

the desired color, dip an

one

direction only

(left,

artist's

bottom).

3I)ahhing
is still

2Appl\ inji

padding finish. Specialized padding finishes and powdered stains, available

from a furniture refinishing supplier, are designed to touch up all types of finishes. The
term "padding" describes the technique of using a tightly rolled pad to sweep finish onto
a surface. To make a pad, cut out a 1 -foot-square piece of cheesecloth or cotton, fold each
corner of the square so that all four corners meet in the middle (above, left), then fold the new
corners into the center until you have formed a tight wad with one smooth side. Holding the
pad by the folded corners, moisten the smooth side lightly with the padding finish. Sweep the
pad three or four times across the repaired area using a quick, back-and-forth motion (above,
right).

To

tint

the spot, rub on stain before the finish dries (step

the finish to dry, then cut the gloss,

92

if

3).

If

stain

is

not needed, allow

necessary, by smoothing the spot with 4/0 steel wool.

dered
ing surface

on

stain. While the finish

wet, dip your finger into a powstain that

and rub a

matches the surroundtiny

amount

into the

repaired area (above). Continue applying

padding
color

is

to dry,

finish

and

stain until the desired

achieved. Allow the stained finish

then smooth

it

as

in

step

2.

REPAIRING SURFACES

STICKING

DOWN VENEER OR

PLASTIC LAMINATE
A quick fix for loose edges. Lift the loose
edge gently and scrape out old glue with a
sharp
ble.

knife,

working along the grain, if possito blow out the loose debris.

Use a straw

With a toothpick or other pointed

tool,

spread

white or yellow glue on the gluing surfaces of

the wood (far left). For a plastic laminate, brush

on contact cement (page 121). Press the lifted

piece into place and wipe off excess glue.
Secure the repair with a C clamp, inserting
pads of wood or cork in its jaws to protect the
furniture finish. To avoid gluing the pads to the
surface, slip a piece of waxed paper under
each pad. Tighten the clamp (near left). Wait
24 hours for the glue to set, then release the
clamp. In the case of wood veneer, sand the
repair lightly with very fine sandpaper, and
refinish the area.

For plastic laminate,

and wax the repaired area (page

wash

95).

FLATTENING BLISTERED VENEER

Heat and moiscan cause a veneered surface to

bubble. If the raised veneer is broken,
repair
with a patch (page 94). Use a utility
Slitting the blister.

ture

it

knife or single-edged razor blade to slice

through the center of the blister in the direc-

Gently insert the

blade of a shop knife under the veneer and
scrape out loose glue particles. Dampen the

tion of the grain (above).

underside of

warm

brittle

veneer with a drop

water, then press the blister

flat

of
to test

Applying glue. Holding one side of

open with the blade of a

the blister
knife,

use a toothpick to spread white

on the back of the veneer and

or yellow glue

the surface of the

inject

wood

(above). Alternatively,

glue with a glue syringe (page 121).

Repeat the procedure

for the

other side of

Press both sides of the blister

place and wipe away excess glue with a

the

blister.

damp

cloth.

into

blister.

the veneer

ute the glue.

seam,

Use a seam
and distrib-

Leveling the
roller to flatten

Run the roller along the

wood grain, in one direc-

parallel to the

each stroke, wipe

excess glue from the veneer and the roller

tion only (above). After

with a

damp

cloth.

set a sheet of

When

the blister

waxed paper over

heavy books or other weights on

it.

lies flat,

then place

top. Allow

the glue to set for 24 hours. Refinish the

repaired area (page 92).

Use the utility knife to slice slivers off

the edges of the slit until they butt together,
or sand one edge lightly with an emery board.
its

fit.

93

ouivrn^co

i\nr/Aii\.ii>vj

PATCHING DAMAGED VENEER

\

^___A

^a\

>

"^==^4-^ / j

Cardboard
MfA^^'pattern

^\~
Veneer

Cutting a pattern for the patch.

Mend a

badly

damaged area

of the

veneered surface with a patch cut from

A diamond-shaped patch along

new

veneer.

the grain

will

best blend into the surrounding

grain.

Make a

of

cardboard, drawing a diamond shape

stiff

slightly larger

pattern for the patch on a piece

than the

damaged

area.

Tracing the patch. Buy a piece

thickness and

wood

surface and align

new veneer

so that

with the length of the

Use a utility knife

toward the center.

pencil (above).
slightly

it

type as the

of

unbacked veneer larger than the patch, of the same

veneer. Lay the new veneer over the damaged

damaged

their grain lines run parallel.

Use

scissors to cut out the pattern (above), then

place

it

that

is

it

damaged area
covered completely.

over the

to

make

sure

Utility knife

Veneer patch

Removing

damaged

veneer. Place the veneer patch over the damaged area, alignutility knife to score the outline of the patch in the damaged
veneer (above, left), then set aside the patch and slice along the scored lines, cutting with
the same inward slant as in step 2. Use a small wood chisel to clean out the damaged veneer
(above, right), working from the center out toward the cut outline. Take care not to gouge the

wood beneath

94

the

ing their grain patterns.

Use a

Set the cardboard pattern over the

diamond parallel to the grain, and trace its outline with a sharp
and straightedge to cut out the veneer patch, beveling the cut

REPAIRING SURFACES

Setting the patch in place. Insert the

veneer patch, unglued, into the cleanedout area. If the patch does not fit snugly,
use an emery board to sand the edges slightly
in the direction of the grain (far left), making

~-\^

\f A

~""\

sure to retain the bevel. Use a toothpick to

spread a thin layer of white or yellow glue onto
the cleaned-out surface and the underside of

"V^_^^)
"\

Veneer

left).

Press the patch

into

place

and wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth.

Use a seam roller to flatten the veneer (page

\fK V
^^^Hcp VA
-_2/

the patch (near

93), set

a sheet

of

waxed paper over

the repair

and place heavy books or other weights on

top. Wait 24 hours for the glue to set, then add
stain and finish to the patch (page 92) or refinish the entire

surface (page 96).

patch

Toothpick

REVIVING PLASTIC

AND MARBLE SURFACES

Cleaning plastic laminate. For day-to-day cleaning of plastic laminuse a mild detergent-and-water solution and a soft cloth or sponge.
Do not apply abrasives to a plastic surface; abrasives leave minute
scratches where dirt and stains can lodge. To remove stains, sprinkle
on a generous amount of baking soda and rub gently with a damp
ate,

it

cloth (above).

Wash

the surface with a cloth dipped

in

clean water.

To fade stubborn stains, mix a thick paste of baking soda and water,
smooth over the stain and leave on until dries. Scrub away
with a clean cloth and water. To provide an ideal protective coating
it

for plastic laminate,

on the

label.

it

it

it

apply automotive wax, following the instructions

Caring for a marble surface. To remove scratches or ring marks in

a polished marble surface, sand with the finest wet-or-dry emery paper,
using water as a lubricant. Rub gently in a circular motion until you
obtain a satin finish. Then sprinkle the surface with water and tin oxide
powder (marble polishing powder, available from marble dealers) and
polish it with a soft, clean cloth. Buff by hand or with a power drill and
buffing pad (page 87). To draw a stubborn stain from marble, apply a
poultice. Mix talc, whiting (calcium carbonate) or plaster of paris with
chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide to form a thick paste. For oily
stains, mix the powder with acetone or lacquer thinner instead. Spread
with a sheet cf plastic and
the paste thickly over the stain, then cover
tape down the edges (above). This prevents the poultice from drying
out before it has had time to work. Leave the poultice overnight, then
gently scrape off the caked paste with a wood or plastic spatula and
wipe the surface clean with a damp cloth.
it

95

REFINISHING
Few home

repairs are as relaxing

few

many

repairs are as hazardous;

toxic, caustic or

fibers, or a

surface finish such as varnish, lacquer or shellac. After each

up the work area (page 112).

stage of refinishing, clean

refinishing products are

Furniture refinishing should be done in a place with excel-

flammable.

Whether to strip an existing finish depends on its condition

and the appearance you want. Test an old finish by scratching
an inconspicuous surface with the edge of a coin. If it powders
or flakes and bare wood is exposed, the finish must be taken
off; if the finish doesn't lift, you may first try to revive it (page
84). To apply a different type of finish, you will have to

lent air circulation.

remove

on page

Outdoors

is ideal,

away from

direct sun,

An

alternative

with the wind blowing fumes away from you.

location

a garage or shed with large doors or

is

windows and

Follow the manufacturer's directions when using

ing products, and read the safety tips in the

the existing finish.

Consult your physician

8.

you

if

refinish-

Emergency Guide
suffer

from heart

trouble or a breathing ailment that can be aggravated by toxic

pulling out drawers and dismounting doors. Prop up the furni-

fumes.

each operation can be performed on

is

one horizontal surface at a time, progressing from top to bottom and interior to exterior.
Proceed through each stage of refinishing as shown on the
chair at right. Strip the finish (page 98) and identify the type of
wood (page 100). Stain (page 104), bleach (page 106), seal
(page 107) or fill the wood (page 107), if needed. Apply a

no

Wear an

organic vapor respirator, but remember: There

cartridge rated to protect against methylene chloride.

simple dust

mask

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Furniture has no finish; areas

New

flammable or combustible. Do not smoke

work area. Dispose of soaked rags with
care (page 112). Avoid skin contact with chemicals by wearing long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a shop apron, rubber
gloves and safety goggles.

Most solvents

are

or cause sparks in the

of bare

PROCEDURE

purchased unfinished

furniture

wood exposed
Oil finish

has soaked

into

wood

or

worn

wear and

Finish cracked, chipped or

peeling

Finish improperly applied;

Finish hazy or cloudy

Moisture has penetrated finish

off

tear

Finish the

wood

(p.

108)

Finish the

wood

(p.

108)

Strip old finish

dull

Finish scratched, dented or

Buildup

of old

wax

tear

Wear and

tear; finish

finish

Finish difficult to strip

Stripped wood feels rough to

the touch

Stripped
after

wood

not

smooth

sanding

Wood

(p.

(p.

if

98)

damage

84)

finish (p. 98)

DO;

if

finish (p. 98)

98)

HO

(p.

102)

is

DO

and apply new

Reapply stripper

Stripper scraped off surface too early;

finish

finish (p. 98)

DO;

and apply new

Attempt spot repair

gouged

84)

finish (p.

86)

finish (p.

Strip old finish

softened with age

(p.

and apply new

Revive

or polish

Wear and

U#

and apply new

Attempt spot repair

finish

Finish has streaks or

patches

damage

extensive, strip old

#
is

extensive, strip old

very thick
fibers raised

by stripping,

filling

or

Smooth

the surface

staining

Wood

fibers raised

Wood

has an open grain

by excessive humidity

Lower the humidity

Fill

the

wood

too dark

Stain or

Stripped

wood

reveals dark

blemishes

Imperfections in wood grain; liquid

penetrated wood pores

Wood

too light or not desired

Wood

doesn't accept stain or

Coarse, open grain

filler

has penetrated wood pores

spill

not stained

has

and wait

level

wood, or apply sealer

the surface

Stripped

(p.

102)

Smooth

the surface

Smooth

the area

Stain the

wood

the

wood

(p.

107)

104)

; bleach the wood

; bleach the wood

102)

102)

resand

to dry;

OQ

(p.

(p.

for

to stiffen fibers (p.

(p.

DO;

(p.

smooth

DO
DO

106)

106)

color

Wood

Identify wood type (p. 100). then

applying stain or finish (p. 107)

Stain penetrates too deeply

into wood or bleeds into finish

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:
ESTIMATED TIME:

96

fill

DO

finish uniformly

Sealer required

Easy

O Less

Apply sealer

y Moderate
than

hour

Complex

W1

to 3

hours

will suffice while sanding.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM

spark-proof exhaust fan.

Prepare furniture for refinishing by removing hardware,

ture, if necessary, so that

wood

penetrating finish, which soaks into the

and satisfying as transformHowever,

ing an unsightly piece of furniture into a fine work.

>Over 3 hours

(p.

107)

DO

wood,

if

necessary, before

REFINISHING

Painted chair. Years of accumulated paint

have hardened on this pressed-back chair.

To

restore the chair

grain, the paint

must

and reveal the wood

first be removed.

Stripped chair. The paint has been

away (page 98) and the wood surface smoothed (page 102), revealing oak
with a handsome grain (page 100). Now is
the time to inspect the joints and do any
stripped

necessary structural repairs.

Refinished chair. Golden oak stain has been applied to enhance

wood grain (page 104). Since oak has an open grain, a filler was
applied first (page 107). Finally, two coats of lacquer were sprayed on
(page 1 12), with a light sanding between coats, to protect the wood
and restore its beauty.
the

97

REFINISHING

STRIPPING THE OLD FINISH

Denatured alcohol
To remove stripper
residue from wood.

Chemical stripper
Used with caution for dissolving
finishes; the best all-purpose types
contain methylene chloride.

Setting up for stripping. Chemical strippers soften a finish

so that it can be scraped off the wood surface. Strippers pose
serious health and safety risks: to avoid these hazards entirely,
have the piece stripped by a professional. If you decide to do the job

work cautiously and follow the manufacturer's directions.

the tools and supplies at left, as well as newspapers to prothe work area and a plentiful supply of clean, lint-free cloths. Also

yourself,

Turpentine or

Round up

mineral spirits

To wash silicone residue

left on finish by

tect

wax

and toothpicks and cotton swabs

useful are old jars for solvents, pie tins for catching run-off stripper,

or polish.

for

cleaning out carvings. For reliable

use an all-purpose stripper containing methylene chloride; on

surfaces that must be kept vertical, a paste formula will grip better than
a liquid. Avoid strippers that require a water wash to remove the residue water raises the wood fibers. Do not use lye and oxalic acid as
strippers; they are harsh and their action is difficult to control.
Work outdoors, away from direct sun. There is no respirator cartridge
rated to protect against methylene chloride; if you must work indoors,
set up in an extremely well-ventilated area with a spark-proof fan aimed
outside. Avoid skin contact with chemicals by wearing long pants, a
long-sleeved shirt, a shop apron and rubber gloves; protect your eyes
results,

with safety goggles.

Most

furniture polishes contain silicone; to

the finish with a cotton cloth dipped

sprinkled with
Steel

ing to

wool

(grade 2/0)

surfaces

Thick gloves rated to withstand

the chemicals being used,
Supplement this protection by
applying waterproof cream or

plastic handle.

petroleum

jelly to

masking tape

work surface from the stripper. Set an old metal pan or pie plate under
each leg to catch run off stripper. Turn or prop the furniture as necessary and, starting at one end of a horizontal surface, use a paintbrush
to pat on a thick, even coat of stripper (above) Spread the stripper in
one direction over an area that can be coated in about 5 to 10 minutes

the time that

it

if

wash

silicone,

powdered detergent. Scrub gently along the

grain,

cloth often to prevent reapplying the silicone taken

finish with fresh turpentine to

remove remnants

changoff.

of detergent.

your hands.

Applying a chemical stripper. Use newspapers, anchored

with

remove the

turpentine or mineral spirits and

Rubber gloves

brush or a
brush with a

natural-bristle

stripper off

new

Rinse the
Paintbrush
Do not use a

Putty knife
To scrape
flat

in

necessary, to protect the

floor or

usually takes for the finish to start

over-brushing or trying to work in the stripper, since

rather than speeds its effectiveness

this

lifting.

Avoid

hampers

Lifting off the old finish. Allow the stripper to

10 to 15 minutes or
is

softening

and

until

lifting.

it

To

sit

on the

stops bubbling, a sign that the

finish
finish

test the reaction of the stripper,

use a

gloved fingertip (inset) or the tip of a putty knife to rub the surface. If
your fingertip works through one or more layers of finish, the surface
ready for scraping. Avoid letting the dissolved finish reharden on the
surface. Slide the blade of a putty knife along the grain,

lifting off

the

sludge (above), use short, light passes to avoid gouging the wood.
Clear off the blade by scraping it across the lip of a container or by
wiping
on newspaper. Leave any finish that does not readily lift off
it

for

a subsequent application of stripper

is

REFINISHING

Cleaning out carvings, contours and turnings. To remove the stripper and dissolved finfrom tight corners, special care and a little ingenuity are needed. A cotton swab (above,
left) or a toothpick can be used to clean an intricate carving without risk to the wood. On a
ish

contoured edge, use grade 2/0 steel wool or a nylon pot scrubber, gently rubbing in the direction of
possible. Place a small wad of steel wool on the eraser end of a pencil to reach
the wood grain,
a tight contour (above, center). To clean a spindle, wrap steel wool around it and rotate it (above,
right). Short lengths of jute twine or rope can be used shoeshine-style to clean out circular grooves
if

or turnings.
ing

Work

slowly, applying light pressure; surfaces coated with stripper usually soften,

them more prone

to

mak-

damage.

Washing the wood. Repeat steps 2.

3 and 4 as often as necessary to strip
the finish to bare wood. To clean off

and prevent adhesion problems with subsequent finish coats, wash the
wood with a solvent. Unless another solvent
is indicated by the stripper manufacturer, use
denatured alcohol. Pour a small amount into
a wide-mouth container. Working along the
grain, apply the solvent with a paintbrush
in along the grain with
(far left) or a rag. rub
grade 2/0 steel wool and wipe the wood
clean using a cotton cloth (near left) Repeat
the detergent-and-turpentine wash described
in step 1
Safely store or dispose of all tools
and supplies (page 1 12). Make any necesstripper residue

it

sary repairs to the furniture surface and struc-

wood using the chart on

pages 100 and 101. Sand the surface smooth

ture. Identify the

(page 102), then bleach (page 106). fill (page

107). seal (page 107) or stain (page 104) if
necessary. Select a finish from among those
listed on page 108.

99

REFINISHING

IDENTIFYING THE

WOOD

Pine Country and modern

furniture;

may be used

for

moldings, drawer

sides and cabinet framing. White to pale brown; often with red streaks.
Fine, even, close grain; straight pattern. Moderately light

be stained;

rarely bleached.

Oak

Traditional

tops;

may be

and

Needs no

high-quality

and

soft.

Can

furniture; often

used

for table

figured veneer. Pale gray to reddish brown. Coarse,

even, open grain; flecked, straight pattern. Heavy and very hard.

be stained; easy

to

bleach.

Filler

open

and

Can

grain; vivid, straight pattern similar to oak.

used

for table tops,

Filler

Heavy and

hard.

Can

required.

Kim Usually country furniture; used for table tops, chair seats and
bent parts. Light to dark brown; may have hints of red. Coarse,
uneven, open grain; irregular pattern. Moderately hard and heavy.
Can be

required.

furniture; often

turnings. White to dark brown. Coarse, uneven,

be stained or bleached.

filler.

modern

Ash Country and contemporary

chairs, bent parts

stained;

easy

to

bleach.

Filler

can be used.

'

tain

often veneer.

'

hard Rarely
I

100

to

Medium

to

dark brown with hints

even, open grain; straight pattern. Heavy and very

of yellow

an

oil

lined or bleached. Filler

111

can be used. An

oily

wood

best

Butternut Usually old

open

may be used for carvings: often

may have black streaks. Coarse, even,
Moderately heavy and soft. Can be

furniture;

veneer. Pale to dark brown;

grain; straight pattern.

stained; rarely bleached.

Filler

required.

REFINISHING

Maple
turnings;

High-quality furniture; often used for table tops, chair seats

may be

grain; straight, bird's-eye or burl pattern.

or bleached.

Cherry

Needs no

High-quality furniture; often

grain; straight pattern.

Filler

hard.

Can be

stained

for table tops;

may be

veneer.

Heavy and

filler.

Pale to dark reddish brown;

bleached.

and

veneer. White to pale reddish brown. Fine, even, close

used

may have

hints of green. Fine, even, close

Moderately heavy and hard.

Can be

stained; rarely

Birch Country and modern furniture; often used for chair legs, bent
and imitating other woods. White to pale brown. Fine,
uneven, close grain; straight or wavy pattern. Heavy and hard. Can be
stained; easy to bleach. Filler can be used.
parts, turnings

Mahogany
ings;

High-quality furniture: often used for table tops

may be

grain; vivid, flecked, straight pattern.

be stained or bleached.

can be used.

Walnut High-quality furniture; often used for table tops and carvings;
may be veneer. Grayish to dark brown; may have hints of purple.

Rosewood

highly figured pattern.

wood

required.

Filler

Heavy and moderately

hard.

Can

required.

High-quality furniture; usually veneer

Can be

Filler

turn-

Dark brown to black

open grain:

with hints of dark purple or orange streaks. Coarse, uneven,

Coarse, even, open grain; straight pattern. Moderately heavy and hard.
stained or bleached.

and

veneer. Brown to dark reddish brown. Fine. even, open

Heavy and

best suited to an

oil finish.

hard. Rarely stained or bleached. Oily

Filler

can be used.

101

SMOOTHING THE WOOD

Hand scraper

Dust mask
Protects against harmful fibers and dust.

Wood

Sanding block
Used with

file

Shaves surfaces
smooth; unless experienced, use only on flat
or slightly contoured

\X\^

^Sllfe^

surfaces.

sandpaper to
smooth flat
and contoured
surfaces uniformly; face
should be

r,

^^f[

v^j

K]
)

padded

Safety

a^

7
/

"~"~

goggles

23S

"WENTftf

/ ^~"

/'^r%K
'4

^
v

r"

Tack rag

Getting ready for smoothing. To ensure a satiny finish, sand

wood each time the fibers are raised after stripping, after
bleaching, after sealing and between coats of finish. Gather
together the equipment shown at left. Buy or make a sanding block
(page 117) for flat surfaces; for rounded or curved surfaces, wrap
medium-grit sandpaper around a dowel. Buy a tack rag at a hardware
store or make your own. To make a tack rag. dip cheesecloth in warm
water, wring
with turpentine and shake
out, then saturate
out.
Drip varnish evenly over the cloth (above). Fold it up and knead it until

Chisel

Tack rag
For wiping fine

it

sanding dust
store in a sealed
container.

it

Steel wool (grade 3/0 or 4/0)

For fine smoothing after sanding;
use alone to smooth contours or
to work across the wood grain.

Smoothing

flat

wood is a slow and

Work evenly over one surface at a time.

surfaces. Smoothing the

painstaking procedure.

smoothing, use sandpaper rather than steel wool; steel

effect and may close the wood pores. Using a sanding block with medium-gnt sandpaper, stroke along the wood grain, apply
ing moderate, even pressure in short, straight passes (above). Replace
For

initial

wool has a polishing

the sandpaper strip as soon as

clogs. Use your fingertips as well as

your eyes to determine whether a surface is sufficiently smoothed: a
barely vtsibte blemish will be magnified by a new finish. To spot blemishes,
examine the wood under natural light possible; fluorescent light may
hide blemishes. Use a soft bristle brush to whisk sanding particles off
it

if

the surface

102

the

it

it

turns uniformly sticky. Store the tack rag

in

a sealed glass container

When

smoothing wood, work in a well-ventilated, well-lit

area. Wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a shop apron, rubber
gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask.
for later use.

Smoothing edges. Although

it

requires practice to master, a

hand scraper is especially useful for smoothing edges with end

grain. Bend the hand scraper, as described on page 117. and
push along the edge (above). Wipe and resharpen the hand scraper
(page 1 18) as often as necessary. You can also smooth surfaces with
a small sanding pad. made by twice folding a quarter sheet of mediumgrit sandpaper. Set the pad on the edge of the wood, apply pressure
with your thumb and slide the pad along the grain in short passes, lifting the underside of the pad to avoid rounding off a flat edge. Change
sanding pads often. Brush off the edge with a soft brush.
it

KtrllMiHIINvj

^vv^
/^V/v/
X^^^lrTyJvJ

Sandpapercovered

^^^\\tX/

Detailing carvings. Smoothing the wood around intricate carvmay require the use of sharp-edged tools, steel wool and
small sanding pads. Slip the tip of a knife, for example, into a
carved line and run it lightly from one end to the other, lifting out any

an especially fine or
an old awl or a nail. Follow up with a small sanding pad, if possible, or grade 3/0 steel wool.
Abrasive tapes and cords, available at hardware stores, are also excellent for cleaning out hard-to-reach areas. At one end of a carved line,
work in an abrasive tape or several intertwined strands of steel wool;
lingering particles of finish or stripper (above). For

delicate carving, stroke gently with the

pull

it

tip

of

11

l\

AT

^Y^M\?\

M
ings

/'dowel

qp"

p
4

\Wv^l

l\\\

\(\

),

Cleaning out contours. To smooth contours that are gently

rounded or curved, wrap sandpaper around a dowel. Set the
sandpaper-covered dowel against the contour and twist slowly
and evenly (above). Replace the sandpaper as soon as clogs and
cannot be cleared by tapping on a hard surface. Smooth the wood of
an acutely rounded or curved contour using a sharp-edged tool, steel
wool or a sanding pad. If using a file or chisel, work carefully to prevent
gouging or tearing the wood. Dust off the surface with a soft brush.
it

it

slowly along the route of the carving, taking care not to scratch

the bordering surfaces. Brush off the carving with an old toothbrush,

then a soft brush.

^_^/<U

$&X$M

vjs=ii^\

'

Sandpaper
strip

rxr

'

Hv\vl

"*S?\

,;

I \v

"

<J

iLjL

Tack

^^Bj

>

-..;-

JJ
lu\

Getting at turnings. Strips of medium-grit sandpaper, a sharpedged tool and steel wool are useful for smoothing turnings. Cut
a narrow strip from the length of a sandpaper sheet and reinforce the back with masking tape. Wrap the strip snugly around the
turning, grip
at each end, then draw the strip back and forth shoeshine-style (above, left). Clean finely detailed areas first with the tip of
a rasp or an awl. Then braid a cord of grade 3/0 steel wool strands, fit
the cord tightly into the detail without touching any bordering surface,
and use the motion described above to smooth the detail (above,
right). A commercial abrasive tape or cord may also be used. Brush
particles from the surface as you work.
it

-,

s
i

11

~^^

\'\

VI

X
S=?

x_

^^*fef
v

- ,j

Cleaning the surface. Follow the

initial smoothing by thoroughly cleaning the wood. Working along the grain, first dust off
the wood with a soft brush, then vacuum it. Finally, wipe the surface with the tack rag you made in step 1 Clean your work area to
prepare for the next steps; refinishing must be done in a dust-free
area. To determine the next steps, consider the type of wood you are
refinishing (page 100), along with its age and condition. To change the
color of the wood, it may be necessary to bleach it (page 106) or stain
it (page
104). If no bleaching or staining is needed, the next steps
depend on the type of wood; apply a finish to a close-grained wood,
such as pine, maple or cherry; fill an open-grained wood, such as ash.
oak or mahogany. If you intend to apply a penetrating finish, leave the
grain open to absorb the oil.
.

103

KnriiNi-sniiNu

COLOR

STAINING FOR RICH

STAINS
Characteristics

Uses
Gives

into

Does not fade

does not raise
Easy to apply,

fiber

hours.

Penetrating stains
Stains containing
dyes that are

absorbed
the

wood

Oil-based stain

or bleed;
grain.
dries in 24

grain,
rich

grained

tones

to

coarse-

woods such as

mahogany, oak, rosewood,

walnut, and light-colored
hardwoods such as cherry,
birch, ash and beech. Not

recommended for softwoods

such as pine, since it may
over-emphasize grain.
Fades in direct sunlight;
does not raise grain; does

Alcohol-based
stain

not accept shellac finish.

Requires skill to apply;
dries

stain

Solvent-based
stain (non-grain-

NGR)

Non-penetrating stains
Stains containing
dyes that coat
the surface of
the wood

Best on mahogany, cherry

and walnut.

Best on woods with an

Characteristics

Uses

not fade or bleed;

does not raise grain;
conceals grain pattern;

in

of

12

If

in

a container

made

of

glass or plastic

lln

Start with

powder,
,i

stirring until

quart of solvent

it

is

and 2

dissolved (above):

not metal, which

and add
most instances.
stain powder.

in

or 3 tablespoons of

penetrating

oil

base.

If

you wish

to apply

shellac finish, use stain that does not have an

alcohol base, since

it

dissolves shellac.

Use

you choose an appropriate stain. After deciding on a stain type,

select the color. Keep in mind that a stain
color will vary depending on the solvent base
and the manufacturer; also, a stain will vary
in its effect on different types of wood. The
chart on page 105 illustrates how stains
change the color and enhance the grain of
five common woods. To reduce stain penetration into the wood and to keep resins in softwoods from bleeding into the stain, apply a
sealer (page 107) before staining.
the chart at

left

to help

(letting the right color. Experiment by mixing stain colors of

same solvent base to find the desired shade, noting any

combinations that you may later want to duplicate. Settle for a
color slightly lighter than the final shade desired; most stains darken as
they dry and appear darker still under a finish. Using a pad of folded
cheesecloth, apply a small test patch of the stain on an inconspicuous
surface of the wood (above). Wait until the test patch dries, then conand solvent to
tinue testing, adding stain to the mixture to darken
lighten it. Coat the test patch with the finish you plan to use before
judging its final color. If you are using a stain powder, strain the final
mix carefully through cheesecloth to remove any undissolved particles.
the

it

Go

104

color, or disguise the

wood entirely. To emphasize the pattern of

wood with an open grain such as ash, oak,
mahogany or walnut, use stain that has a

Emphasizes pattern of closewoods such as birch,

maple and beech. Can be
used to darken softwoods.
Not recommended for openpored hardwoods such as
walnut and oak.

stain. Follow the manufacturer's directions; while

react with the solvent. Pour the solvent into the container

its

Many

enhance wood

grained

and need only be stirred,

others require mixing or must be diluted.
you cannot find a
ready-mixed stain to your liking, use stain powder and add the recommended solvent usually turpentine, denatured alcohol or water. Pre-

may

change

stain.

such as pine.

stains are available ready-mixed

pare the stain

birch,

attractive grain. Not recommended for softwoods

makes different types

wood look alike.

Preparing the

woods such as

or beech.

not fade or bleed;

raise grain.
Requires skill to apply;
in
an
hour.
dries

Easy to apply; dries

24 hours.

some

maple

Does

to

grained

does not

Does

Oil-based stain

Highlights green tints in ash

to close-

and oak; suited

15 minutes.

Does not fade or bleed;

raises grain.
Easy to mix and apply;
dries in 24 hours.

Water-based

raising or

in

Choosing the right

stains are available to

to step 4 to apply the stain.

REFINISHING

Maple stain

Walnut stain

Oak

stain

Mahogany

stain

Pine

Maple

Birch

Oak

Mahogany
105

STAINING FOR RICH

COLOR

(continued)

4
ping

Applying the stain. To achieve a uniform color, apply stain to one entire
surface of the furniture at a time, propit

so that the surface

horizontal,

is

if

pos-

Wearing rubber gloves, dip a folded

cheesecloth pad into the stain, leaving it
damp, but not dripping. Wipe the stain onto
sible.

the surface

(left),

working

the direction of

in

wood grain. Overlap strokes to prevent

streaks. Use a second pad to wipe off excess

the

stain before
ing

oil

it

before wiping
rub

in

dries.

If

applying nonpenetrat-

stain, wait for the stain to dull slightly

off

the excess.

If

necessary,

the stain's base solvent to lighten any

dark spots for an oil stain, use turpentine.

Wipe a sparing amount of stain on any surface with end grain, which

absorbs

of stain to dry completely

tions,

if

is

porous and

stain faster. Allow the

required, to build

first

application

and repeat applicaup color. Clean up

the work area, safely storing or disposing of

tools and supplies used;
necessary,
spread out fresh newspapers. After the final
application is dry, fill the wood (page 107)
with a filler that matches the color of the
stain, then seal the surface (page 107). If
you want to apply a contrasting filler, seal
first, then apply the filler.
all

BLEACHING TO LIGHTEN THE

if

WOOD
Applying and neutralizing bleach. Bleaching, the process of
wood by chemical means, can be accomplished using

light-

ening the

household products. Standard chlorine bleach, applied full strength, is

marks from bare
wood. Wear rubber gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Pour a
small amount of chlorine bleach into a jar and use a paintbrush with
excellent for removing discolorations, stains or water

synthetic bristles to apply the bleach evenly along the grain (left). Apply
bleach repeatedly until the wood has lightened to the desired shade.
To stop the bleaching action, brush white vinegar onto the area. Hydro-

gen peroxide can be used

in

place of chlorine bleach for a

slightly

stronger bleaching action. To bleach the entire piece, a two-step proceof peroxide and caustic soda is used; have the furniture bleached
and neutralized by a professional, who will be equipped to work safely
with these dangerous chemicals.
Rinse the wood with water, then wipe with
to
a cloth and allow
dry overnight. Bleaching and neutralizing raise the wood fibers. Wearing a dust mask to avoid inhaling bleach-saturated particles, smooth
the surface lightly with extra-fine sandpaper or grade 3/0 or 4/0 steel
wool. Remove wood particles with a soft brush and a tack rag. then
apply sealer (page 107) unless you plan to apply a penetrating finish.

dure

it

106

it

REFINISHING

FILLING

WOOD

THE

Padding the

filler. Let

5 to 10 minutes,

and

until

it

the

filler

loses

its

set

gloss

starts hardening, but not until

dries out completely.

Rub

in

the

filler

it

across

the grain with a pad of folded burlap, applying

Pressing in the filler. To provide a uniformly smooth surface on coarse-fexfured or

open-pored wood, fill the pores with a paste or liquid filler before applying a finish other
than penetrating finish. Use the chart on pages 100 and 101 to guide you in determining
whether to fill the wood. Select a filler that is as close to the wood color as possible or,
the
wood has been stained, tint a neutral filler by mixing in the same stain to the desired shade.
Wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area and wear a respirator you are working with large
quantities of solvent. Prepare the filler following the manufacturer's directions, thinning
with the
required solvent
usually turpentine or mineral spirits. Using a stiff, short-bristle brush, press a
if

if

it

thick layer of

wood pores; brush along the grain (above, left), then across
Apply filler over an area that can be coated in about 5 to 10 minutes
usually takes for the filler to start drying.

filler

the grain (above,

the time that

it

evenly into the

right).

moderate pressure to force the filler into the

pores and remove any excess (above). Clean
the surface by wiping lightly along the grain,
taking care not to lift any filler from the pores.
Let the filler dry for at least 24 hours. Shine a
bright lamp across the grain to check the filler
for a slight sheen.
you detect varying highlights or flat areas, apply the filler again and
If

allow

it

to dry.

Smooth the surface, following

page 102, but do not use

the procedures on

any sharp

tools.

Clean the wood by gently

wiping each surface with a tack rag. then

apply sealer (below). Safely store or dispose

of

used

tools

and supplies, and spread out

fresh newspapers.

SEALING THE SURFACE

An undercoat for stain or finish. Sealers
serve several useful functions in refinishing.

SEALERS
Stain
Alcohol-based

stain;

non-grain-raising

(NGR)

stain

Sealer solution

Sealer application

part shellac mixed

with 8 parts denatured
alcohol.

Brush onto surface before

applying stain.

Apply a sealer before staining or finishing to prevent resins in softwood from bleeding into the
stain or finish. Applied before staining, a sealer
reduces penetration of the stain into the wood:
after staining,
prevents the stain from bleeding
into the filler or finish. Apply sealer after filling to
coat the filler, and before applying a finish to
provide a base for the finish. The chart at left
will help you choose the proper sealer. Apply
one thin coat of sealer at each stage of refinishing, using a paintbrush or a cotton rag. Work on
one horizontal surface at a time, progressing
from top to bottom, interior to exterior. Let the
sealer dry as recommended by the stain or finish manufacturer. Smooth the wood (page 102),
clean it thoroughly by brushing and wiping with
a tack rag, then proceed with the next stage:
staining (page 106), filling or finishing. Safely
store or dispose of used tools and supplies: if
needed, spread out fresh newspapers.
it

Oil-based stain

part boiled linseed

1 part

oil

mixed with
mineral

Wipe onto surface before

applying stain.

spirits.

Finish

Sealer solution

Sealer application

Shellac; lacquer

part shellac mixed

with 8 parts denatured
alcohol.

Brush onto surface before

applying finish.

Varnish

1 part varnish mixed

with 1 part mineral

Brush onto surface before

applying finish.

spirits.

107

REFINISHING

APPLYING THE FINAL FINISH

FINISHES
Finish

Characteristics

Penetrating finish

Low

Uses
Produces a

resistance to water and alcohol; does not chip or peel.

Enhances grain pattern and wood characteristics.
Easy to apply and touch up; dries slowly.
Must be reapplied once or twice a year.

resistance to water, alcohol and heat; moisture produces white

marks on finish.
Orange shellac imparts an amber hue to wood; white shellac dries
to

deep

luster in

wood.

choice for large pieces of furniture and furniture with

intricate carvings and turnings.

Low

Shellac

soft,

A good

a clear finish.
to apply with good results; dries quickly.

quick, clear, glossy finish that gives wood warmth.

Not a durable finish for furniture that receives a lot of wear.
such as table tops, but suitable for decorative wood items
or dark cabinet woods.

Easy

wood grain and color.

Produces a very hard, clear film on wood. For

Excellent resistance to water, heat, alcohol and daily wear.

Difficult to apply; best results if sprayed; dries quickly, preventing
dust particles on surface.

Lacquer

Intensifies

A tough finish that is waterproof, alcohol-proof and heat-resistant.

Some varnishes have a slight yellow color, but most dry to a clear,
transparent film on wood surface.

Varnish

all

indoor

furniture.

Requires practice to apply well; dries slowly; difficult to avoid dust

on surface.
is the easiest to apply and the quickest-drying.
Dries clear and will not darken with age or exposure to sunlight.

particles landing

highly durable finish that intensifies wood tones and

imparts warmth to the wood.
Suitable for indoor and outdoor furniture.
Polyurethane varnish is especially durable and has a high
resistance to abrasion.

Polyurethane

Capturing beauty with a clear finish. After

smoothing the wood surface (page 102), and
bleaching (page 106), filling (page 107), sealing
(page 107) or staining (page 104)
necessary,
select the finish from the chart above that best
suits the wood. To preserve the warm texture
of mahogany, for example, use a penetrating
finish (page 109), which soaks into the wood
and is easy to apply and touch up. On wood
such as maple or cherry, you can ensure durability by applying a varnish finish (page 110).
For a soft sheen, choose satin-type: for a shiny
surface, choose high-gloss. At left are some of
the tools and supplies needed to apply a finish.
For wiping on oil, or for waxing and polishing,
you will need a supply of clean, lint-free rags.
Apply varnish or shellac (page 1 1 1) with a paintbrush; spraying is best for lacquer (page 112),

Respirator

To protect against harmful fumes

Rubber gloves

solvents especially important

applying lacquer.

Chemical-resistant
gloves protect skin
against solvents.

in

if

when

since

it

dries extremely quickly.

finish outdoors.
you must work
choose a dust-free, well-ventilated area;
equip the room with a spark-proof exhaust fan.
Take special care when spraying a finish indoors,
since sprayed droplets can float for hours. Lay
out newspapers to protect the work area. Wear
long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a shop apron
and rubber gloves; wear a respirator you are

Apply the

If

indoors,

if

applying lacquer or working with a substantial

amount

Always check the

any finish by first applying a small
patch on an inconspicuous surface.
of toxic solvent.

effects of

Cloth rags
Used for wiping
and rubbing
Should be clean,

Shop apron
Sturdy, washable
denim apron protects

lint-tree cotton.

clothes from splashes

and dust.

Tack rag
Sticky, varnish

impregnated cloth

i>" tiny dust particles

jrlaces Store in a sealed

'tainer

108

Plckstick

Steel wool

Used

(grade 3/0 or 4

dust
a varnish finish before

and

to

lift

Used

lint off

dries.

it

To make

one. see page 111.

0)

for fine

smoothing between
coats

of finish.

test

REFINISHING

WIPING ON PENETRATING FINISH

Applying boiled linseed oil. Products

soak into the wood rather than coating

that

the surface are referred to as penetrating

They give wood a natural appearance

and texture while they protect
Commercially
finishes.

it.

prepared penetrating finishes are sold as Danish

oil, teak oil or rubbing oil. But you can make your
own from boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Penetrating finishes are

all

applied

in

much

the

same way;

follow the manufacturer's instructions for varia-

give

wood a

classic rubbed finish with

boiled linseed

oil, first

gently wipe the surface

tions.

To

with a tack rag. Mix boiled linseed

with

oil

an

equal amount of turpentine. Pour the mixture onto

a cotton cloth and spread it over the wood, working along the grain (left). Wait 15 to 20 minutes
penetrate the wood, then reapply the
any dry spots. After another 15 to 20 minutes, wipe excess oil from the surface with a
fresh cloth. Allow at least 24 hours for the oil to
dry completely. To prevent used cloths from igniting spontaneously, soak them with water and put
them in a sealed metal container, or hang them
out to dry do not pile them up. After the oil is
dry, use grade 3/0 steel wool gently to rub each
for the oil to
oil

to

surface along the

wood

rag and reapply the

grain.

Wipe

with a tack

Repeat as necessary to
build up the sheen, then renew the finish once
or twice a year, as required.
oil.

Polishing for a high sheen. To intena penetrating finish,

use a cotton cloth to buff each surface
vigorously in a circular motion, softening
resins in the oil and smoothing the finish. Use
a lamb's wool pad attached to a power drill to
buff a large, flat surface (far left); apply light
pressure to guide the pad slowly along the

wood

sify highlights in

grain.

To smooth and

protect the sur-

face, rub gently along the grain using

grade

amount
furniture polishing oil. Wipe
a cotton cloth to remove the

4/0 steel wool lubricated with a small

of paste

wax

or

the surface with

excess (near

left).

Polish with a fresh cotton

cloth, buffing vigorously in

a circular motion.

Clean the work area and safely store or dispose of all tools and supplies (page 112).

109

REFINISHING

BRUSHING ON VARNISH

Applying varnish.

First apply a coat of

necessary (page 107). Prepare a
wide-mouth metal or plastic container for the
varnish by making a drip wire: Punch two holes at
the top of the container, cut a piece of wire from an
old hanger and thread the wire through the holes in
the container. Gently rotate the unopened can of
varnish to mix
without creating air bubbles. Pry off
the lid and, taking care not to agitate the can, slowly
pour a small amount of varnish into the container.
Replace the lid immediately. If you are applying
polyurethane varnish, be sure that the furniture surface is completely free of any silicone residue (page

sealer,

if

it

98). Follow the

manufacturer's directions carefully,

especially regarding the drying time

Load a

stiff

varnish, coating only

bristles.

between coats.

varnish brush by dipping

one

into the

it

third the length of the

Stroke the bristles against the drip wire to

horizontal surface

remove the excess. Varnish one

at a time, propping the furniture when necessary.

Apply the varnish in a flowing motion, along the
wood grain and always in the same direction, using
moderate pressure (left). Stroke on the varnish in
parallel passes, without overlapping it. Lift the brush
at the end of each stroke to keep it from touching
or dripping on an adjacent surface (inset).

Tipping off for an even coat. As

soon as one surface is coated, spread
a thin layer of varnish

the grain

in

long,

lightly

across

sweeping passes, applying

moderate pressure (left). Lift the brush away

from the edge at the end of each pass to
keep from touching it. "Tip off," or level, the
varnish immediately, using a brush that

is

nearly dry. Holding the brush almost perpendicular to the surface

grain,

pass the

and brushing along the

tips of the bristles gently

over

marks and wiping

out any air bubbles. Between coats, reseal
unused varnish and store used brushes.
Wrap brushes in aluminum foil or plastic food
wrap and place them in the freezer, or suspend the brushes with the bristles submerged
the varnish, softening brush

in

mineral

spirits,

of the container.

110

but not touching the bottom

REFINISHING

fa

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J^<v

Steel

wool

*<<j^r

jljyji

<r~~"_____ir

/'"TV

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M.

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JjfeS
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Picking out dust. Use a homemade

of dust or

lint

from the varnish before

pickstick to
it

dries.

lift

out specks

To make a

pick-

you need rosin, usually available in crushed form at a

a cotton swab, and varnish. Pour a small amount of varnish into a small can and set the can into a larger can of boiling water.
Allow 10 minutes for the varnish to warm up, then add rosin (7 parts
rosin to 1 part varnish) to the heated varnish, stirring until
dissolves.
Let the mixture cool. Dip a cotton swab into the mixture, wet your
thumb and fingers with water and pull off the end of the swab, rolling it
into a pear-shaped point that is tacky but firm. To pick up dust or lint
specks, lightly touch the pointed end of the pickstick to the surface and
slowly lift the speck from the still-wet varnish (above). An artist's brush
or a toothpick can also be used for this purpose.
stick,

music

store,

it

\i

isa^^r^l

/
\

(]/

Smoothing between applications. When

smooth the

finish

Be

careful not to

light

pressure to

sand through the layer

two coats

2 and 3

dry,

to

after the sealer.

it

sheen
Clean each

dull the

of varnish.

surface after smoothing by brushing, then wiping

Repeat steps

is

along the grain, using 4/0 steel wool (above)

or super-fine sandpaper. Apply

slightly.

the varnish

with a tack rag.

reapply varnish as needed; apply at least

If

you are applying polyurethane varnish, be

sure to apply the second coat within the time specified by the manufacturer, or it will not adhere. Reseal unused varnish and clean the

brushes (page

112).

Wax and

buff the finish

(page 87),

if

desired.

APPLYING SHELLAC FOR A SATIN FINISH

Thinning and applying
apply, dries quickly

sealer (page 107),

shellac. Shellac is easy to

and sands easily.
makes a good
is not resistant to water,
but because
It

it

not a practical final finish for

a lot of wear and tear. Choose
orange shellac to lend an amber hue to dark wood such
as mahogany, walnut or butternut, or to wood that is
darkly stained; use white shellac to provide a natural
shade. Shellac is sold in a four-pound or five-pound "cut"
(shellac resin dissolved in alcohol), which must be thinned
with denatured alcohol for application. Thin a four-pound
cut by mixing one part shellac with three parts denatured

heat or alcohol, shellac

is

furniture that will receive

alcohol; thin a five-pound cut by mixing

with four parts denatured alcohol

(left).

one

To

part shellac

thin shellac for

use as a sealer, mix one part shellac with eight parts

denatured alcohol. Stir slowly to avoid introducing air bubbles. Reseal the shellac and denatured alcohol when not
in use. To apply shellac, use a paintbrush, loading no
more than two thirds the length of the bristles. Brush in
one direction, along the grain, lifting the brush at the end
of each stroke. Do not backbrush over previously applied
shellac, since

it

dries very quickly

and rebrushing

will stri-

ate the finish. Allow four hours for the surface to dry

before applying another coat; apply at least three or four

coats after the sealer. Let the final application of shellac
dry for 12 hours before smoothing.

111

REFINISHING

SPRAYING ON LACQUER
Spraying lacquer

in

smooth sweeps. Lacquer

gives a

hard, beautiful finish that resists impact, wear, water, heat,

alcohol

tends

and mild

acids.

Lacquer can be brushed on, but

it

marks. Aerosol cans, although expensive,

provide the most successful and practical way to apply lacquer.
to leave stroke

(page 107) and smoothing the wood, clean it thoroughly with a brush and a tack rag. Lacquer is highly flammable and emits toxic fumes; work outdoors, out of direct sunlight,
and wear an organic vapor respirator to filter out harmful fumes.
Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Shake the aerosol can vigorously to mix the lacquer, initially for at least two
minutes, then periodically, between spray passes. Practice
spraying the lacquer on scrap wood. Then, holding the can
at a 30-degree angle, 12 to 14 inches from a vertical surface,
spray along the wood grain from one edge to the other in a
long, continuous sweep (left, top). Repeat applications of lacquer in alternating directions, each pass overlapping half of
the one preceding it. On turnings or other narrow surfaces,
hold cardboard or scrap wood behind the surface to catch
excess lacquer spray (left, bottom). Let the lacquer dry for
about 20 minutes, then smooth the surface gently and clean
it with a tack rag. Apply four or five coats of lacquer, allowing
the final application to dry for 12 hours before smoothing. To
dispose of empty cans, press the nozzle to expel all gas propellant, then discard the cans without puncturing or burning
them. Before storing a partly used can, turn it upside down
and press the nozzle briefly to prevent the lacquer from clogging it. Clean up the work area and safely store or dispose
After sealing

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of

tools

all

and supplies (below).

CLEANING UP
Cleaning and storing tools and supplies

safely.

Conduct

a thorough cleanup immediately after each stage of refinishing

not only to prolong the life of your tools and supplies, but

ensure your own safety. Any stripper, solvent or finish is

hazardous; always follow the manufacturer's directions and
precautions. Reseal cans containing these products after each
application, and store them away from sources of heat, sparks
or flames and beyond the reach of children. If you transfer any
material to a smaller can, transfer the label or recopy safety
information onto the new label. Throw out empty cans, first
releasing the gas propellant in aerosol cans. Clean tools after
use, and store them in a locked tool box or hang them out of
reach of children. Soak used newspapers and cloths in water
and dispose of them in sealed metal containers to keep them
from igniting spontaneously; start each new stage in the refin-

to

ishing operation with a fresh supply. Store clean respirators

dustproof containers, and change the

larly,

filter

in

or cartridge regu-

according to the manufacturer's instructions.

To clean a brush after applying stain or finish, pour a small

amount of the product's solvent into a shallow, wide-mouth
container. Soak the bristles of the brush in the solvent then,
wearing rubber gloves, squeeze out excess solvent (left. top).
Repeat until the bristles seem clean, then wash the bristles in
mild detergent and warm water, rinse them well and dry them
by blotting with a cotton cloth. Wrap the brush in a long strip
brown wrapping paper. Fold up the end of the paper over

of

the brush, without bending the tips of the bristles

Tie or tape the paper. Store the brush

hole

112

in its

handle.

flat

or

(left,

hang

it

bottom).

from the

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

This section introduces tools and techniques for furniture
repair, including using a vise, cutting

with handsaws, shaving

and smoothing wood and handling power tools. Charts on

sandpaper, wood fasteners and woodworking glues are presented for quick reference. A look at proper clamping methods
and an inventory of common wood joints round off the chapter. Tools particular to repairing upholstery (page 64), repairing furniture surfaces (page 84) and refinishing (page 96) are
illustrated and described in their own chapters.
Buy the best-quality tools you can afford and treat them
with kindness. Protect their cutting edges by checking wood
for hidden nails and screws before you start to work. If a saw
becomes dull, take it to a professional for resharpening or buy
a replacement blade from a hardware store. Sharpen planes
and chisels on a 250/1000 combination-grit whetstone (page
J 18) lubricated with water or light machine oil, according to
the whetstone manufacturer's instructions. If a blade is badly
chipped, you can have it reground professionally. Wipe wood

,1

'.I

'.i

. .1

'.i

'.I

'j

ij

y y

'j

and dirt from blades with a clean rag dipped in mineral

and rub a few drops of light machine oil on the blades
with a soft cloth to keep them rust-free. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to clean and lubricate power tools. Store
tools on a shelf away from children, in a locked metal or
plastic tool box, or hang them out of reach. Store a hand plane
on its side to protect the blade from damage.
To protect the finish on a piece of furniture that needs repair,
have on hand an old blanket to pad the floor or work table.
Also handy are sheets of cardboard or cork to protect wood
from the jaws of a vise, and scrap wood to use as clamping
pads and hammering blocks.
Use grounded power tools in a dry area with a grounded
outlet. When cutting or sanding wood, wear safety goggles to
protect your eyes from sawdust and wear a dust mask to
protect your lungs from particles. Work with toxic substances
outside or in a well-ventilated area, and wear a canister respiresin

spirits,

rator with the appropriate organic

y 'j y y y y y w
A ,i ,1 ,1 ,1 ,i A ,1 m\

ij

.1 ,i ,< ,i ,n ,t ,i ,i ,1 ,i ,1

'|

O O

Tape measure

Wood

Squares
Carpenter's square

(left)

chisels
Sharply-honed edge cuts and
shapes wood. Blades come

Glue syringe

and try square (right) are

used to check 90-degree
angles and to guide
marking

filter.

Injects glue into

narrow wood

in

joints.

1/8- to 2-inch widths.

tools.

Backsaw and miter box

Backsaw makes fine cuts in narrow
wood stock. Used with the miter box
Awl
Used

to cut 45- or
to

mark

cutting lines

Shop

90-degree angles.

Screwdrivers

and

screw-hole positions on wood.

Flat-tipped or Phillips.

Gouge

knife

Scrapes old glue from

scores dowels
and whittles wedges

joints,

Curved blade useful for

cleaning out dowel holes.

Metal file
Crisscrossed cutting edges shape metal
do not use a metal file on wood

tools;

Burnisher

Smooth metal blade shapes the

edge of a hand scraper.

Utility knife

Cuts cardboard or cork used

to pad wood in a vise; slices

cutting

through old caning.

Sanding block
Holds sandpaper

Hand scrapers
flat

for

smoothing wood surface.

Combination whetstone
For honing blades; coarse and fine stones
together. Use freehand or with
a honing guide; lubricate with water or oil.

rubber or felt pad allows

sanding of slight curves.

cemented

Wire brush
For removing loose paint and dirt from
oddly shaped surfaces and hard-toreach areas. Use gently on wood.

Burnished edge shears

paper-thin layers from a
surface. Spring

wood

steel blade
for rapid

may be

thick

stock removal

or thin for finishing.

Tin snips
Sturdy jaws on spring-loaded
handles cut through tough
materials such as wicker.

Planes
Jack plane [above) smooths and levels
long surfaces and removes waste from
rough wood. Block plane (left) finishes
short, narrow edges and end gram

113

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

TOOLS FOR REPAIRING FURNITURE

Work gloves
Heavy rubber gloves

Power

drill

Bores screw holes and

dowel holes in wood.
Used with a countersink
bit for screws, an extension

bit for

protect hands from

caustic chemicals;
leather gloves protect

Claw hammer
For driving and pulling

from splinters.

nails.

hard-to-reach

areas or a pad

for buff-

Respirator
Interchangeable

Rubber mallet

ing finishes.

For knocking apart wood

joints or striking other tools.

canisters filter out

toxic vapors. Follow

manufacturer's
instructions for use.

Circular saw
For making long, straight cuts
in wood: depth and angle of
blade are adjustable.

Nail set
Used with a
to set nail

hammer

heads

below wood surface.

Dust mask
Disposable filter
prevents inhalation
of fine dust and

wood

Electric paint sprayer

Coats ornate surfaces

evenly with a fine paint

mist.

SECURING

May be

rented.

WOOD

IN

Safety goggles
Orbital sander

Sandpaper fits over a rubber

pad that oscillates. For sanding
large, flat

wood

surfaces.

A VISE

Holding your WOTfc Steady. Precision work, such as planing or drilling, usually requires that
wood furniture part be anchored in a vise. The shoulder vise (above, left) is built in to a woodworking bench; the woodworker's vise (above, right) is screwed onto a work table. To open the
laws of either vise, turn the handle counterclockwise. Fit the wood piece between the jaws in the
desired position; insert wood, cardboard or cork padding to protect the wood surface from the
jaws Turn the handle clockwise to close the jaws of the vise against the wood, then tighten the
handle an extra quarter turn To release the piece from the vise, give a hard push on the vise
a

handle with the heel

114

of

your hand.

fibers.

Protect eyes from flying wood

chips and debris; should be
worn when using power tools.

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

CUTTING

WOOD WITH A HANDSAW

Cutting across the grain with a crosscut saw. A crosscut saw, which has about eight teeth per
designed to cut quickly and roughly across a board at a 90-degree angle to the wood grain.
Use an awl and a carpenter's square or try square to score a guideline on the board. Place the board
across two sawhorses or on a work surface, with the waste end overhanging. Steady the board with
one knee and hand; fold your thumb under your index finger. To start the cut in the edge of the board,
hold the saw almost vertical, align your shoulder and arm with the line of the cut and draw the blade
slowly toward you a few times. Once a notch is cut in the wood, lower the angle of the saw to about
45 degrees (above, left) and cut through the wood on the downstroke, until the blade is about 1 inch
from the end of the cut. To finish the cut without splintering the wood, grip the waste end with one
hand, hold the saw vertical (above, right) and use short up-and-down strokes.
inch, is

Using a backsaw for a smooth cut. The

backsaw has about 1 3 teeth per inch and
Backsaw

makes finer, cleaner cuts than the crosscut

saw. It is often used with a miter box to cut
at a precise 45- or 90-degree angle. Clamp
the base of the miter box in a vise or hold it
near the edge of a steady work surface. If
the box is made of wood, cover the inside
bottom with scrap wood to protect it from the
bite of the saw. If the miter box has built-in
clamps, clamp the wood in the box; otherwise, brace the wood against the back and
bottom of the box with your hand, the finished side facing you. Slip the saw blade
into the appropriate slot and grip the handle
firmly, keeping your arm, shoulder and hip in
line with the saw. Holding the blade level
(left), start a notch by drawing the saw
toward you a few times, then use long forward and backward strokes
Stop short

of pulling the

front slot or butting the rear

saw handle

to cut the

blade

tip

wood.

out of the

guide with the

while cutting.

115

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

HANDLING A

WOOD

CHISEL

Notching and shaving wood with a chisel. When working with

a chisel, always point the cutting edge away from your body and
secure the material you are cutting in a vise. The method for using
a chisel depends upon the cut being made. To make a deep cut
along a scored outline, hold the chisel vertical, with the bevel facing
the waste wood. Set the chisel tip against the outline and strike the

handle with a mallet (above, left). To pare off a thick layer of

wood, hold the chisel at a 30-degree angle to the wood surface,
bevel down, and strike the handle with a mallet (above, center),
lifting away short chips of wood. To smooth a wood surface, hold
the chisel horizontal, bevel up, and use hand pressure only to
make light strokes (above, right), shaving away thin curls of wood.

WORKING WITH A HAND PLANE

Trimming wood with two kinds of

//

\z^r-5mVv
y
=^^^^^^^\
'^

pW
1

/~

-~"~

\{\^L*S

Jack plane

^^M

/^^^

planes.

properly adjusted

hand plane with a sharp blade provides a simple way to shave wood
surfaces. The jack plane is used for heavy-duty leveling; the block
plane trims smaller pieces of wood. The plane blade, or iron, is
mounted in the plane at a set angle to the base. Its cutting depth
and lateral position can be adjusted. To adjust the iron, hold the tool
upside down and turn the depth-adjustment nut until the edge of the
iron barely protrudes from the mouth of the plane (bottom, far left).
Push the lateral-adjustment lever from side to side until the iron edge
is aligned squarely within the mouth. Test the plane on scrap wood;

continue adjusting

To use a

until

you get the cut you want.

jack plane, secure the

wood

piece

in

a vise and place the

toe of the plane on the surface to be planed. Hold the front knob

\\

kl

"5:

"Y>

Depth

adjustment

Lever

nut

cap v.

"

^JO
-
I

\
116

11

Block
plant

>

and

pressure on the toe. As

you push the plane forward along the grain, shift the weight to the
middle of the plane, then before the plane extends past the edge of
the wood, transfer all pressure to the heel of the plane (left, top), raising the plane from the surface in a smooth motion. When planing end
grain, protect the corners of the wood from splintering by clamping a
piece of waste wood to each end, or by lifting off before reaching the
end, and planing the remainder in the opposite direction.
the handle firmly

To

level

wood

and

start the stroke, putting

with a block plane, hold the plane

the heel of the lever

cap

resting

in

in

one hand, with

Push the

the palm of your hand.

plane over the surface putting more pressure on the toe (bottom,
near left) and transfer the weight from the toe to the heel. As you finish

each

stroke, raise the plane from the surface in a

smooth motion.

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

SMOOTHING A WOOD SURFACE

ABRASIVES

Choosing an abrasive. Depending on

its

Sandpaper

Grit

Grade

Coarse

60
80

1/0 or

Sanding heavily coated surfaces; removes thick layers of

paint, varnish or rust; levels deep depressions and scratches.

Medium

100
120

2/0
3/0

Sanding moderately coated surfaces; removes paint, varnish,

rust; levels shallow depressions and scratches.

Fine

150
180

4/0
5/0

Final sanding of bare

coats of paint.

/2

Uses

grade, sandpaper can be used to level

a rough wood surface or to polish a finished one. The backing, which may or
may not be paper, lists the type and size

and the weight of the backing.

For work on wood, choose sandpaper

of the grit

with a

wood;

light

sanding

of intermediate

is

220
240

6/0
7/0

applying

280
320

8/0
9/0

coats of

400

10/0

Final sanding before applying last coat of lacquer;

luster on final coats of varnish or enamel.

Steel wool

Grade

Uses

Very

2/0

removal of residue from chemical

varnish or enamel.

Extra fine

3/0

Final smoothing of wood before applying finish;

lubricant for spot repairs.

Super

4/0

Applying rubbing stain, wax or oil; smoothing between finish

coats; reducing luster on final coats of varnish or enamel.

Very

fine

Extra fine

finish.

fine particles

and

air

garnet,

aluminum oxide or

Garnet, reddish

in color,

best for smoothing rough surfaces.

It

tends to wear quickly. Aluminum oxide is

a tough synthetic, colored light grey to
brown. Use it to sand rough to medium

Light sanding of primer or sealer coats; final sanding before

Removing

grit of

silicon carbide.

bubbles from intermediate

surfaces. Silicon carbide, also called wet-

finish.

has a waterproof backing that

to be used with water as a lubricant. It performs well in fine grades for
polishing. When sanding wood, progress
or-dry,

Super

fine

fine

fine

Final

stripper;

reduces

allows

it

from coarser to finer grits. Use a softbristle brush or a tack rag (page 102) to
remove sanding particles.
Steel wool comes in pads ranging from
grade 1 to 4/0. Grades 2/0 and 4/0 are
comparable to very fine and super fine
sandpaper. Lubricate a 4/0 pad with fur-

deglossing

used with a

niture

oil

to polish

fine finish.

Wood

^~^~

\^7_

Slot

Si

Sand-^^
paper

block

iJl

<^

1__^
Hand scraper

Evening surfaces with a sanding block. Sanding blocks are

most hardware stores, but is not difficult to make
your own. Using a backsaw, cut a 1-by-4 wood block about 3
inches long. Saw a slot 1/8 inch deep along the center of one
edge of the block. Sand away any sharp corners. Glue a piece
available at

it

onto each face of the block. Cut a sheet of sandpaper

enough to wrap all the way around the block, plus 1/4 inch.
Insert one edge of the sandpaper into the slot, fold the sheet
around the block (above, left) and wrap the other end over the
slot. To hold the sandpaper tight, staple the ends. Use the sandof thick felt

large

ing block

on

flat

parallel to the

surfaces, applying

wood

grain (above,

light

pressure

in

Shearing off a layer of wood. Burnish a hand scraper properly

18). Grip the scraper firmly with the fingers
your thumbs at the middle of the scraper.
Bow the scraper slightly with your thumbs and tilt forward. Push
the scraper away from you along the wood grain, in long, continous strokes, producing fine wood shavings (above). If you get
fine sawdust instead, increase the angle of the blade.

before using

it

(page

of both hands, placing

it

short strokes

right).

117

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

SHARPENING CUTTING TOOLS

_-

^^\

r
c

^k.

Plane iron

\ ^

*>

Whetstone

Wood

chisel

// H o n n g ^"-^^^Jo>?^<i
/ guide
i

tV
\

^^^i^^J^-^~~~~----^^^^^J

Honing a plane iron.

Remove the cap screw

the plane iron before each use.

with a screwdriver, then place the plane

between
iron, bevel down, in a honing guide at the proper angle
25 and 30 degrees. Tighten the plane iron in the guide. Place a
rubber mat beneath a combination whetstone to keep it from slipping and lubricate the whetstone with water or oil. Run the iron
and guide along the coarser side of the whetstone several times,
applying moderate pressure to the iron on the forward stroke
(above). To remove the metal burr that forms on the honed edge,
flip the iron and guide, lay the iron flat on the stone and pull it
along the length of the whetstone.

Finally, polish the

blade against

dull,

it

will

whetstone. Using your body, rather than just wrist motion,

push the chisel along the length of the stone, applying moderate
pressure (above). After any nicks have been honed from the
edge, put a cutting edge on the bevel by tilting the handle slightly
higher and using a circular motion. To remove the metal burr that
forms on the edge, lay the chisel flat on the whetstone, bevel up,
and pull the chisel toward you.
of the

FUlng, Stoning and burnishing a hand scraper. To sharpen a hand scraper, you need a
a metal file, a whetstone and a hand burnisher. First, secure the hand scraper in the vise,
long edge upward. Using moderate pressure, draw the file horizontally along the scraper edge
a few times (above, left). Flip the scraper over and file the other edge the same way. To remove

caused by the file, hold the scraper flat on a work surface with about 1/2 inch overhanging the edge and slide the finer side of a whetstone along both edges of the scraper several times (above, center). Next, slide the whetstone back and forth on the flat sides of both
edges to remove the metal burr. Secure the scraper in the vise again, and rub a burnisher over
the flat sides of both edges. Then form the scraper hook (inset) by tilting the burnisher 10 to 15
degrees and passing along one side of the scraper edge, then the other (above, right).
Burnish the opposite edge of the scraper the same way.

118

a chisel edge becomes

than cut them.

fibers rather

Sharpen a chisel on a whetstone before each use. Lubricate the

whetstone. Hold the bevel of the chisel flat against the finer side

vise,

it

When

compress wood

the finer side of the stone.

serrations

Rubber mat

Polishing the bevel of a chisel.

nicked and

Combination
whetstone

\\

V^^^V^/'^
\

Hone

~>

^^^^-S^^-iKV

\
Rubber mat

^"^><\ y(

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

MAKING A STRAIGHT CUT WITH A CIRCULAR SAW

^
\\ "\a/

A!

^^

Circular

-~>X^\

^\^f /

saw

vi^\ /X\W

^\

Ml
Nki

<&\

r^fl

<5q\.\

5"\^\

XV^^A

^\iv^M^

Y0&

Ijpls^v^"^-C^* Base

plate

^^^^^

(i\*=^2

Awl

Clamping and marking the

Sawing guide

"

-_^^

piece. Turn the piece of wood

be cut upside down, and use an awl and straightedge to
mark a guideline for the cut. Raise the piece on four 2-by-4
boards: Place a board under each of the two side edges, and position a board along each side of the guideline, about 2 inches from
Clamp the piece to the work surface near each corner. To mark
a position line for the sawing guide (step 2), hold the saw against
the end of the piece, lining up the notch in the base plate with the
cutting guideline. Score a line with an awl along the edge of the base
plate (above). Use the awl and a straightedge to extend this line

Cutting along the sawing guide. Choose a straight 1 -by-2

as a sawing guide. Place
precisely along the position line and clamp
at each end. Set the depth of the saw
blade to 1/2 inch more than the thickness of the piece. Position the
base plate against the sawing guide, the blade about 1/2 inch from
the wood. Turn on the saw and wait for the motor to reach full
speed, then slowly push the blade into the wood (above). Push the

the length of the piece, keeping

the

to

it.

it

parallel to the cutting guideline.

to serve

it

it

saw

steadily along the cutting guideline without forcing

the base plate against the sawing guide.

cut

in

one

run,

do not

try to start

saw and reposition the piece

guide. Then insert the saw blade
where you

left off,

If

it, keeping
you cannot complete the

from the other end; rather, turn

without unclamping the sawing
in the cut about 1/2 inch from

and complete the

off

cut.

USING AN ORBITAL SANDER

=f /

^y

y^op

f\
Orbital

Fitting

sandpaper into the orbital sander. Consult

the

7 to choose the right sandpaper for the

job. Use scissors to cut a piece of sandpaper to fit the pad
of your orbital sander, or buy pre-cut orbital sander sheets. Pull
the lever on each side of the sander to open the clamps. Fit one
end of the sandpaper under one clamp (above) and close it. Pull
chart

^^x.

sander

f^ ^~~-'
z~
Xv x
el
^

on page

1 1

the sandpaper tight against the

pad and

fit

the other

Smoothing a wood surface.

Grip the sander and turn it

reach full speed before starting to sand.
Starting near one corner of the surface to be sanded, guide
the orbital sander along the wood grain (above) without pushing
down on it. Lift the sander after each complete stroke. After sanding,

on, waiting for

it

to

dust the surface with a soft-bristle brush.

required, complete the job by

hand

If

finer finish is

with a sanding block.

end under

the opposite clamp.

119

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

WOOD FASTENERS

rzmm>

(==)

V)

Casing

nail

Similar to a finishing nail. Has a tapered head

can be driven below the wood surface
with a nail set. Sized by pennyweight,
that

expressed by

wood screw
The most common screw

letter "d".

Flat-head

for fasten-

wood, it can be countersunk

below the wood surface and its head
concealed with a wood plug or putty.
ing

Available in various lengths and

diameters, indicated by number;
made of steel, brass or other alloys

Wire brad
Smaller and thinner than a finishing nail, the
brad has a tapered head that can be driven
below the wood surface with a nail set. Available
in

lengths ranging from 3/8 to

1/2 inches.

D=
',

^zm>

Finishing nail
Has a small round head that can be
driven below the wood surface with
a nail set. Sized by pennyweight,
expressed by letter "d".

Round-head wood screw

Fastens decorative hardware such
as drawer pulls and handles. The
round head is not countersunk.
Available in various lengths and
diameters, indicated by number;
made of steel, brass or other alloys.

Using a

nail set.

To

set the

head of a
below

finishing nail, casing nail or brad

the surface of the wood,

Box nail
Has a wide, flat head that lies flush with
wood surface; thin shank of nail is less
likely to split wood than the common nail.

with a

hammer

1/8 inch.
slightly

the

tip

Choose a

drive

it

in

a tip
head. Place

nail set with

smaller than the

of the nail set

and tap the

nail

first

the head protrudes

until

nail

on the head

nail set with

the

of the

hammer

(above), driving the head about 1/16 inch

below the surface. Cover the nail head
with

Oval-head wood screw

decorative fastener for hardware.

The underside of the screw head is
countersunk and the oval top protrudes Available in various lengths
and diameters, indicated by number;
made of steel, brass or other alloys.

Hanger

wood

putty,

if

desired.

bolt

Made of steel with a machine-screw

thread at one end and a wood-screw
thread at the other end. Used with a
corner bracket of metal or wood to
join table legs to the apron

Building up a loose screw hole. To

re-

seat a loose screw, insert toothpicks into

left) and break off their ends.
a screw partway to position the
toothpicks. Remove the screw and add
glue to the hole, then drive the screw into
place. For a badly enlarged screw hole,
use a hardwood dowel to pack the hole.
Fit a drill with a bit that matches the diame-

the hole (far

Drive

in

dowel you will use (1/4 inch in

narrow pieces of wood, 3/8 inch in wider
pieces). Use masking tape to mark the
drill bit to the depth of the screw hole. Bore
ter of the

straight into the hole, stopping

when

the

masking tape touches the wood. Cut the

dowel slightly longer than the depth of the
hole, bevel one end slightly and score the
sides with a shop knife or pliers. Coat the
dowel and the inside of the hole with glue.
Tap the dowel into the hole (near left), trim
flush with a coping saw, then sand
it

it

smooth. Allow the glue to set for three to

four hours, then drill the new screw hole
into the dowel, using a drill bit slightly
smaller than the diameter of the screw.

120

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

WOODWORKING GLUES

Glue

Choosing the right

Characteristics

White glue

in

Made

a good all-purpose adhesive for indoor

to form a strong bond.
it has poor moisture
not a good choice for repairing outdoor furniture.

of polyvinyl acetate, white glue is

furniture.

It

sets

White glue dries

resistance,

Yellow glue

it

is

in

30 minutes and takes about 24 hours

does not sand well. Because

clear, but

favorite with woodworkers, yellow glue is thicker, slightly stronger and more
moisture resistant than white glue. It sets in 30 minutes and cures completely in
clear; excess should be wiped away while it

24 hours. Yellow glue does not dry

is still

Epoxy

versatile of adhesives, epoxy forms a strong bond, without clamps, on

wood, glass and metal. Epoxy usually comes in two tubes: a resin and a
hardener. Mix these two ingredients in equal proportions before applying the
glue. Epoxy sets quickly and can be sanded. Because
is waterproof,
can be
used on outdoor furniture. Wear gloves when mixing and applying epoxy, since it
can cause skin irritation. Apply in a well-ventilated area.
it

it

a good choice for gluing large surfaces that receive little stress, such as
veneers and plastic laminates. Apply contact cement to both surfaces, then let it
set for five minutes before bringing the surfaces in contact. Mating surfaces must
be positioned precisely, since mistakes in alignment cannot be corrected. Apply
in a well-ventilated area.
This

cement

tance, gap-filling

Use the chart at left to help you

choose the right glue for the job. In general, most furniture repairs can be handled
times.

with white or yellow glue. Yellow glue, also

woodworker's glue, is generally presands better and

has higher heat and moisture resistance.

called

ferred to white, since

wet.

The most

Contact

glue. Glues vary

and temperature resisability, toxicity and drying

strength, water

is

Applied to

it

tight, clean-fitting joints

and

properly clamped (page 122), these glues

dry to produce a bond stronger than the

wood

itself.

for more speEpoxy contains a resin and a

hardener, and bonds wood and just about
everything else. Contact cement is mainly
usea to bond thin, flexible materials to a
flat surface.
is flammable and toxic, and
takes a steady hand to mate the surfaces
properly. Instant glue can bond a multitude

Other adhesives are used

cialized jobs.

It

Instant glue

Made

cyanoacrylate and sold under several brand names, this adhesive will
bond virtually anything. A couple of drops flow freely into hairline cracks between
wood and other materials to form an instant bond without clamping. Since instant
glue bonds in less than 1 seconds, wear rubber gloves when applying the glue
to prevent accidentally bonding skin.
of

of substances, including skin, in less than

10 seconds, and should be handled with

great caution.

Building up an

Many

ill-fitting joint.

because a dowel
has been whittled down or a tenon
has shrunk and the surfaces do not fit
snugly. One way to build up a dowel
or tenon is to coat it with glue, wrap
glue joints

fail

it

with thread, then wait for the glue to dry

before regluing the

is

to

strips of

Sticking with glue. Apply glue to a clean, dry surface: Scrape away dried glue
and wipe or vacuum away sawdust and wood chips. If the wood surfaces are perfectly smooth, score them lightly with a shop knife or the serrated jaws of pliers. Glue
should be applied in a thin, even layer to both gluing surfaces. One method is to drip
a few drops of glue from the bottle and work it into and around the joint with a toothpick (above, left) or an ice-cream stick. To force glue into tight corners, use a glue
syringe, available at hardware stores, or an old hypodermic syringe with the needle

removed. Take out the plunger

Push the

to load the glue syringe with white or yellow glue.

long, thin tube of the injector directly into the joint, or into

a 1/16-inch hole

the joint for this purpose, and depress the plunger slightly (above,
Wiggle the joint to distribute the glue, then clamp it (page 122).

drilled into

right).

joint.

wrap the dowel

Another method

with cloth. Cut two

cheesecloth 3 inches by

1/2

and spread a thin layer of white

or yellow glue on the dowel or tenon.
Lay a cheesecloth strip across the end
of the dowel and press the cloth ends
against the dowel. Lay the second strip
over the first, forming a cross. Coat the
inches,

cheesecloth with white or yellow glue.

Fit the joint together (above), trim off
the excess cloth with a

clamp the

joint

(page

utility

knife

and

123).

121

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

CLAMPING FOR A SOUND JOINT

practices.

while the glue sets. At

joint in position

Clamps hold
left

are four useful clamps for furniture repair.

Hand screw

Good clamping
a
C clamps

The C clamp serves for most small

The versatile hand screw can do the

jobs.

job of

clamp, but also adjusts to clamp nonparallel surfaces. The pipe clamp can be

long or short, depending on the length of

pipe used.
niiiiiiiniiiiiirfl

The web clamp or band clamp

shaped pieces and pulls

encircles oddly

them together. When applying a clamp,

pad its jaws to protect the wood finish from
the bite of the clamp; cardboard or cork

can be wrapped around

To

fine

wood

turnings

clamping pressure,
pad with strips of wood that stretch from
clamp to clamp. Insert waxed paper beor curves.

Web

tween the joint and the pad to avoid gluing

the pad to the wood. Tighten the clamp
just enough to hold the pieces together.
An even, continuous bead of glue escaping

clamp

Pipe clamp

II

I
sinji
clamps. C clamps can close a crack, secure work to
a work surface and hold cutting guides in position. When clamping
a freshly glued joint, position the clamp as close to the joint as
'

and insert wood pads beneath the clamp jaws. For larger
areas use several clamps, evenly spaced, and add a wood strip
to spread the pressure evenly. Use a C clamp of the appropriate
size for the job; small repairs in a large clamp can throw the joint
out of alignment. Turn the screw of the C clamp clockwise by
hand (above) until the work is held snugly, then give an extra
quarter turn. When using more than one clamp, tighten them
alternately to maintain even pressure on the joint.
possible,

from the

joint indicates

pressure; too
out too

much

proper clamping

much pressure can

force

glue and "starve" the

joint.

Securing wide pieces with pipe clamps. Handy for spanning

clamp consists of a pair of jaw fittings attached
to a 3/4-inch pipe of any length. To apply this clamp, fit the fixed
jaw of the clamp against one edge of the work, then press the
spring mechanism on the movable jaw and shift
until the shoe
rests against the opposite edge. Hold the pipe in one hand while
turning the screw handle until the shoe is snug (above), then give
an extra quarter turn. When using more than one pipe clamp,
tighten them alternately to maintain even pressure on the joint.
Position three pipe clamps as shown above: Raise the work on
2-by-4s covered with waxed paper and run the center clamp
table tops, the pipe

it

beneath

122

distribute

it

to equalize the

pressure exerted by the two top clamps.

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

Pulling
of the

together with a

it

web clamp makes

and binding several

the

web

it

web clamp. The

cinching action

joints at

once. To apply

pull

the excess

clamp, thread

this

through the center of the ratchet, loop

piece being clamped and

shapes

useful for encircling irregular

web

it

around the

through the

slot.

pieces of cardboard under the web where it contacts the

wood to protect its finish, then crank the clamp taut (left, top).
Fit

Crank the handle by hand

or, in

some models,

clamp

tighten the

with a screwdriver.

A homemade

tourniquet clamp of non-stretching cord can take

web

clamp. To apply a tourniquet to

wrap a piece of cardboard around
each leg near the joints being glued and secure with masking
tape. To keep the cord from slipping, wrap
once around each
rear leg, then bring
around the front legs and pull
taut. Knot
the ends together. Slip a screwdriver, a length of dowel or a
sturdy stick through the doubled cord and twist
to tighten the
the place of a commercial
chair legs, as

shown

here,

it

it

\
\

\i

Cardboard

\ pad

it

it

it

SS-TT^DSO^

cord

^-KK^^F-

^SS'-^

Wedge

bottom).

to prevent the cord

(left,

the screwdriver against the foot

rail

from unwinding.

-^^^^f^
Cord

WOOD

JOINTS

f^>
Dowel

One
into

joint

or

more round pegs

fit

holes to secure solid

wood

or particleboard.

Mortise-and-tenon joint
Rectangular tenon fits into the
recessed mortise. A strong
joint with

Found

Dovetail joint'
Strongest and most attractive
corner joint. Found in quality
cabinets and drawers.

in

a large gluing area.

older furniture.

Butt joint
flat surfaces butted
Forms a weak
joint; glued and reinforced
with brackets or screws.

Two

Removing locking

together.

reinforced by hidden fasteners.

f^

joint indicates

fasteners. Chair and table joints are often

small dimple

a brad. To remove

it.

the brad and strike the nail set with a

in

the

wood near

position a small nail set over

hammer

(above,

left),

forcing

head through one part of the joint into the second part. If
the tip of the brad pokes through the other side of the joint, use
out with
pliers to pull it out. If a dowel locks the joint, try tapping
a mallet and a smaller dowel. If the dowel is glued in place, drill
the brad

it

it

out. Fit

Dado

joint

The end

of one piece fits into

a groove in the other. Commonly found in drawers.

Rabbet

joint

Steps cut in the adjoining

pieces fit together and are
reinforced with nails or screws.

drill

with a

bit

that

is

slightly

smaller

dowel. Use an awl to punch a starting hole in

and drill straight into the dowel (above, right),

way
drill

out that

To prevent

splintering caused by a
on the other end of the dowel,
half. Blow sawdust out of the hole.

through.

position the

diameter than the

the end of the dowel
stopping about half-

in

drill

if

drill-bit exit
it

is

hole,

exposed, and

123

TOOLS & TECHNIQUE

REBUILDING A BROKEN DOWEL JOINT

Chair leg

-^/^
^^^^>

VLllL

i __^
1
new

broken dowel. A dowel joint may break,

in the hole. To repair the joint, drill
through the center of the broken dowel and install a

Drilling into a

leaving the dowel stuck

a hole
dowel. Secure the piece

case a chair

a vise,
padding its finish. Select a drill bit of the same diameter as the
replacement dowel and wrap masking tape around the bit 7/8 inch
from the end. Drill straight into the broken dowel (above), stopping
when the tape touches the wood. Blow out the sawdust.
(in this

leg) in

Using a dowel center to mark the

dowel center

(inset)

drilling point.

helps to align a dowel

joint precisely.

Reposition the leg in the vise so that the dowel hole faces
upward, then insert the dowel center, point up, into the dowel
hole. Use sandpaper to smooth rough edges from the adjoining
(in this case, a foot rail). Mark the drilling point for the foot
by lining up the two parts and pressing them together (above).
The dowel center will leave a position mark in the foot rail.

piece
rail

W-,\\\

&si\

Vtfft'^X

3 r\

/a\

[\

\
Foot

rail

dowd

hole. Release the leg from the vise

Secure the foot rail in the vise, padding its
finish. Use an awl to punch a drill starting point at the dowel
center position mark. Using the same drill bit as in step 1 bore
straight into the foot rail at the mark (above), stopping when the
tape touches the wood. Release the foot rail and tap out the sawdust. Cut a dowel of matching diameter 1 1/2 inches long, and
bevel both ends slightly with coarse sandpaper. To allow excess
glue and air to escape as the dowel is forced into the hole, score
the dowel by drawing
through the serrated jaws of pliers.

Drilling the

and

set

it

aside.

it

124

Fitting the joint together. Secure the leg

in

the vise

Spread white or yellow glue on the dowel and in the

new dowel holes, then with a mallet tap the dowel into the
hole in the leg. Slip the hole in the foot rail onto the dowel and tap
in place (above). Remove the leg from the vise. Reassemble the
chair and clamp the joint with a web clamp or tourniquet (page
123). Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. Release
the clamp after 24 hours.
it

again.

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

REBUILDING A BROKEN MORTISE-AND-TENON JOINT

Drilling into the tenon.

cut

it

and

off

begin, secure

case, the top

with the

to

inch apart.

dowel

part with the broken tenon

(in this

of

punch two drill position marks in the tenon, about

a power drill with a bit that matches the diameter

Fit

dowel you

of the

a vise the

in

is badly damaged,
hardwood dowels. To

the tenon

a chair). Use a backsaw to cut the tenon flush

surface and smooth it with medium-grit sandpaper.

rail

wood

Use an awl

If

rebuild the joint with

will

use

for large joints).

(a 1/4-inch

dowel

for small joints,

Wrap masking tape around

the

3/8-inch

drill bit

end and bore a dowel hole straight into the

each position mark (above), stopping when the tape
touches the wood.
7/8 inch from the

top

rail

at

Plugging the mortise. Release the top rail from the vise.
Secure the mortised part (in this case, the back stile of the
chair) in the vise, mortise facing upward. Use a chisel to
clean out any remains of the broken tenon. Measure the length,
width and depth of the mortise and use a backsaw and miter box
(page 1 15) to cut a hardwood plug to fit. Bevel one end of the
plug with medium-grit sandpaper and score lines on the sides of
the plug to allow glue to flow around
evenly. Spread a thin layer
of white or yellow glue inside the mortise and on the sides of the
plug. Knock the plug into the mortise with a rubber mallet (above).
Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. Let the glue set
for three to four hours, then smooth the plug flush with mediumgrit sandpaper.
it

VA

\s

Dowel

^r

\i

*^i\

'\.

~~f
^_2~

Drilling holes in the plugged mortise. To make sure that

fit together properly, insert a dowel center
(page 124) into each drilled hole in the top rail, the point

the two pieces

facing upward. Align the two pieces

them

leave position marks

the

drill

in

starting holes at the

in

proper relation to each

The dowel centers will

mortise plug. Use an awl to punch

other (inset) and press

together.

bit you used in

each mark (above),

marks. With the taped

bore a hole straight into the top rail

stopping when the tape touches the wood.

step

at

Assembling the joint. Cut two dowels 1 1/2 inches long

and bevel both ends slightly with coarse sandpaper. To
allow excess glue and air to escape as the dowel is forced
through the serrated
into the hole, score each dowel by drawing
jaws of pliers. Secure the top rail in the vise. Spread white or yellow glue on one end of each new dowel and in each new hole in
the top rail then, with a mallet, tap the dowels into the top rail
(above). Spread glue on the dowels and in the dowel holes in the
mortise plug, then align the back stile with the top rail and tap the
dowels into the holes. Remove the top rail from the vise. Reassemble the chair and clamp the joint with a pipe clamp (page
123). Wipe away excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. Release
the clamp after 24 hours.
it

125

INDEX
Page references

in italics

tion of the subject

ences
Guide

indicate

an

illustra-

mentioned. Page

refer-

bold indicate a Troubleshooting

in

mentioned.

for the subject

Chemicals, 10

Fire, 8,

Toxicity, 8, 9,

11, 96,

98

11

Cigarette burns, 91
Refinishing products, 96, 112

Cherry (wood), 101

Chisels, 116

First aid, 8,

Cigarette burns, 91

Flammability, 96, 112

11

Clamps, 122-123

Cleaning, 8

Chemical
Abrasives, 117, 102-103

spills,

10

Glass panes (cabinet), 61

Glues, 121

95

Marble,

95

Adhesives, 121

Plastic laminates,

Ash (wood), 100

Tools and equipment, 92

Upholstery, 10, 66

Wood,

85, 86, 88, 106

Couches. See Upholstered
Cushions, 69-70

Beds, 40-4 7

47
46

furniture

Chairs, 12, 14-19

Drawers, 55

Casters,
Joints,

Side

rails,

Slats, 40,

Bentwood

42-44,

46

45

chairs,

Doors (cabinet), 49, 48, 57, 58

Glass panes, 61
Hinges, 58-59

101,

Burns, 91
Butternut,

Tables, 32-34

Dents, 91

23

105
Bleaching wood, 91, 106
Bolts, 120
Birch,

123-125

Joints,

100

Latches,

57

Leveling,

60

Lacquer, 112

Lawn

furniture,

76-83

Leather upholstery, 66
Linseed oil finishes, 87, 109

Drawers, 49, 48

Bottoms, 54
Joints,

55

Rebuilding,

Cabinets.

Caned
See

(cabinet);

26-29
also Wicker

Drawers

Sticking,

50-53

83

Chairs, 12-/3
Joints, 12,

Maple, 707
Staining,

47

iron furniture, 76, 77,

Staining, 705

Drop-leaf tables, 31, 37-38

chairs, 12,

Casters,

Cast

See Doors

Mahogany, 707

56

Elm, 100

14-19

Emergency procedures,

Lawn, 76-83

705

95
Mattresses, 40
Marble, 85,

Methylene chloride, 96, 98

9,

8-7

See also Safety precautions

Extension tables, 37, 37

20
Rockers, 22
Leveling,

Nails,

720

Seats, 12, 24-29, 80-82

Splits

and

fractures,

See

also Outdoor furniture;

Upholstered furniture

Finishes, 108

Lacquer, 111
Penetrating, 109

Oak, 700
Staining,

705

Shellac, 111

Oil finishes, 87,

109

104-106
Varnish, 110-111

Orbital sanders,

Stains,

126

20-24

Wicker, 76, 80-82

Outdoor

furniture.

79

76-83

Sandpapers, 117
Saws, 115
Circular, 119

Penetrating finishes, 109

Staining,

Plastic laminates, 85, 93,

95

tools,

118

Outdoor

Shellac, 111
Sticks,

Polishing:

Sofas.

109

Oil finishes, 87,

87

89

Posture boards, 40, 45

Stains

Repairing Surfaces, 84

10

(dirt),

furniture,

Upholstered furniture, 64-65

Stains (finishes), 104-106

Cleaning, 64, 66

85

Steel wool, 102, 103

Cushions, 69-70

Wood,

106

88,

Buttons,

Stripping finish, 96, 98-99

Clean-up, 92

Stuffing, 64,

69

68

Decorative edging,
Tools,

67

Webbing, 70-74
Urea formadehyde, 9

Finishes, 108-112

Burns, 91

Sealing, 107

Cracks, 89-90

Small areas, 92

Dents, 91

Smoothing, 102-103
Stripping, 96, 98-99

Marble,

Wood

Scratches, 88

Varnish, 110-111

Veneers, 93-95

Veneer, 85, 93-95

Shelves, 63

See

95

Plastic laminates, 93,

types, 100-101

also Surface repairs

See

Respirators, 96

95

also Cleaning; Refinishing

Table repairs, 38

Rocking chairs, 22

Vises, 114

Rosewood, 101
Rush seats, 29

Tables, 30-37
Drop-leaf, 31,

37-38

Extensions, 31,

112
Repairing surfaces, 85
Tools, 113
Refinishing, 96, 98,

Sanders,

orbital,

8, 9,

11, 96,

119

Sanding, 102-103, 117, 119

Sanding block, 117

37

Walnut, 101

32-34
Pedestals, 34-35
Splits, 33, 38-39

Staining,

Joints,

Safety precautions, 8

Toxic products,

67

Springs, 73-75

Surface repairs, 84-85

107

64

95
66

Bleaching, 91, 106

Filling,

Upholstered

Upholstery, 10,

Refinishing, 96-37,

furniture

Plastic laminates,

Professional repairs, 84, 106

76

96

Tables, 30

See Upholstered

Spills, 8,

Furniture,

Refinishing,

Shelves, 49, 62-63

95

finishes,

Drawers, Doors and Shelves, 49

Emergency Guide, 9

Screws, 120
Sharpening of

105

Planes, 116

Wax

Beds, 40
Chairs, 12

Scrapers, hand, 11

Pine, 100

Marble,

Troubleshooting Guides:

98

Wax

Wax

67
8, 9,

sticks,

90

Whetstones, 118
Wicker, 76, 80-82

Sharpening, 118
Upholstery,

87

Removal, 86

Teak, 100
Tools, 113-123

Toxic products,

105

finishes,

1 1,

96, 98

Rush seats, 29
See also Caned

Wood
Wood

filler,

putty,

chairs

107
90

Woods. 100-101
Staining, 104-106

127

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The editors wish
Ann

to

thank the following:

Babin, Ottawa, Ont.; Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and

Safety, Ottawa, Ont.; Russell Caplette,

Kennebunk, Maine; Louis.Gleicher,

York Marble Works, Inc., New York, N.Y.; Neeraj Gupta, Association
Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration, Falls Church, Va.; Gene and

New
of

Katie Hamilton, St. Michaels, Md.; Janet Hauser,

Diego,

Calif.;

Michael

Que.; John Kilby, W.H. Kilby and Co.

Weber

Hauser

Furniture,

San

Hrtschan, Tradition Furniture Refinishing, Montreal,

J.

Furniture Service

Inc.,

Ltd.,

Chicago,

III.;

Toronto, Ont.; Tony Kudelko,

Karl Kunkel, Professional

Upholsterer Magazine, High Point, N.C.; Roger Landreville, Atelier Roger

Landreville, Montreal, Que.; Lothar Loacker, Williams All

Park,
for

III.;

Gordon Macpherson, Montreal, Que.;

Safety

in

the Arts,

New

Seasons, Highland

Michael McCann, Center

Dr.

York, N.Y.; Jim McGill, Atelier Jim, Montreal,

Que.; Paul McGoldrick, Pianoforte, Montreal, Que.; Carlo Monaco, Tremco

Ltd.,

Toronto, Ont.; Fred Montgomery, Baystate Restoration, Brockton,

Mass.;

The

Quebec Poison

Control Centre, Sainte-Foy, Que.

following persons also assisted

in

the preparation of this book:

Marie-Claire Amiot, Claude Bordeleau, Serge Pare, Gilles Proulx,

Natalie

Watanabe and

Billy

Wisse.

Typeset on Texet Live Image Publishing System.

Time-Life Books
including a

Rock

Inc. offers
'n'

a wide range of fine recordings,

Roll Era series.

For subscription information,

TIME-LIFE MUSIC, Time &

128

call

1-800-621 -TIME, or write

Life Building,

Chicago,

Illinois

60611.

.1

HH

in

mf
&

ISBN 0-8094-6220-6