Kenwood 900mhz Programming Cable
Kenwood 900mhz Programming Cable
Kenwood 900mhz Programming Cable
Myself, Bill (KE5BTZ) and others have been working to document how the Kenwood TK-9x1 series of
commercial radios can be reprogrammed to talk in the 900mhz amateur band. I purchased a commercial-
style programming cable from eBay for about $25. It works ok, but I usually ‘roll my own’, and I know
others would like a cable but would like to skip the cost and hassle of eBay.
The cable is known in the Kenwood manuals as a KPG-4. The radio ‘talks’ in TTL (0 to 5 volt) RS-232
serial. It needs what is known as a ‘level-shifter’ to produce the +9 to –9 volt swings to safely interface
with a PC or Laptop. This is a common technique and can be recycled for other radios that need a TTL
to RS-232 ‘full swing’ interface.
Parts: you’ll need a low-current 5 volt regulator (LM78L05 - $0.30), and a Maxim TTL to RS232 chip
(MAX232 - $1.30), and six (6) 1.0 uf electrolytic capacitors (6 x $0.15), plus the MJ-12 cable, and the
flavor of serial plug that matches your computer – a DB9 or a DB25 ($.50). Toss in a 16-pin socket – I
recommend soldering to the socket, testing the circuit under power, and only then inserting the MAX-
232 chip. Total cost of all new parts is probably around $5.00.
Only 4 of the 6 modular plug pins are used – power, ground, RX and TX. The MAX232 chip is magical
in that it basically uses the several capacitors to turn 5 volts first into 10 volts, which it then inverts to –
10 volts. With these two (+10 and –10 volts) we’re able to properly match an RS-232 port.
From here it’s fairly easy to match up the 4 pins from the radio to the regulator (78L05) and the
MAX232 chip. Then wire the DB9 (or DB25) to the other side of the MAX232. I’ve provided the DB9
pinouts – only DB25 are on the original. Be sure that RTC and CTS are shorted together and that DSR
and DTR are shorted together as shown (both DB9 and DB25).
This is an easy little project. I also put a low current (2ma) LED (plus a 2.2k resistor) between radio
power and ground so you can tell when the circuit is energized. I’ve built two of these and I’ve actually
had better luck with this homebrew version of the cable than the commercial version ($25), which
continually causes the programming software to have ‘timeout’ errors.