Cosmetics

Elective course title: Cosmetic Preparations.
Brief Course Description:

Topics will cover structure and functions of skin and hair, disorders of skin and
hair, formulation and manufacture of cosmetic preparations, evaluation and testing
of cosmetic products. This information is important for the better understanding
and patient counseling about choice and limitations of cosmetics.
Course objectives:
At the end of this course the student will be able to:
- Understand the concept of cosmetic and dermatologic preparation.
- Prepare different types of cosmetic preparations.
- Appreciate the safety concept of cosmetic preparation.
- Understand the new trends in cosmetic/dermatologic industry.
Recommended reading:
1. Harry's Cosmeticology, Martin M. Rieger (Editor). Publisher: Chemical
Publishing Company; 8th edition (May 2000) ISBN: 0820603724
2. The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, M. Schlossman (Editor),
Allureds Publishing Corp., USA, Vols. 1 (2001); ISBN 0931710758, Vol. 2
(2001); 0931719766, and Vol. 3 (2003); 0931710774 .
3. Cosmetics and Personal Care, R. Schueller and P. Romamouski (Editor),
Allureds Publishing Corp., USA (1999). ISBN 0931710685.
4. Cosmetics: Science and Technology, M. S. Balsam and Edward Sagarin
(Editors), Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, Florida, USA, 2 nd Ed., Vols. 13 (1992), ISBN 0-89464-525-0, 0-89464-526-9, 0-89464-527-7.
Course outline (Content of each lecture):

1. Skin structure and function: Brief description of human skin and function of
the different layers; epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer.
Skin disorders: Disorders and diseases of skin; dry skin, aging, sensitive skin,
pigmentation and acne.
2. Hair structure and function
Structure and properties of hair fibers (hair follicle, dermal papillae). Hair
problems including hair loss, manageability problems, excess unwanted hair, split
ends as well as shine and luster disorders.
3-Skin care products
Basic requirements governing cosmetic care products, factors affecting skin
absorption. Classes of cosmetic care products according to type/function.
Ingredients for skin care products;humectants and moisture balance, oily
ingredients, and miscellaneous ingredients, e.g.vitamins, antimicrobials as well as
botanical extracts.
4- Sunscreen preparations and kin bleaches
Function of sunscreens, sunscreen agents: aminobenzoic acid, avobenzone,
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. Regulatory aspects of sunscreen products regarding
labeling, contents, efficacy, stability testing and packaging. Formulation of
sunscreen products: choice of presentation form; emulsion, cream, lotion, gel,
aerosol.Function and mechanisms of action of bleaching agents. Regulatory status
of such products; statement of identity, indications, directions and side effects.
5- Color cosmetics
Function of color cosmetics. Types of foundation/skin colorants; coverage, finish,
pigments and fillers, colored pigments. Formulation of foundation/skin care
products; emulsified foundation, powder foundation and anhydrous foundation;
examples for such types of products and method of preparation and application.
Lipsticks; definition and characteristics; ingredients for lipsticks including coloring
agents, filler pigment, lipidbase materials, solvents for colorants. Additional
additives for lipstick formulations; antioxidants, antimicrobial, perfumed.
6- Skin cleansing preparations and antiperspirants & deodorants
Use of soaps as cleansing agents and the associated problems; dryness, irritation
and roughness. Synthetic mild surfactans as substitutes for soaps. Formulations for
skin cleansing; liquids, gels, and solid products. Choice of ingredients for such
preparations based on testing and product attributes (foam, cleansing efficiency,
rinsability, skin conditioning and biodegrability). Definitions and basic
requirements for antiperspirants and deodorants. Approaches to achieve control of
underarm malodor. Perspiration physiology and mode of action of deodorants and
antiperspirants. Regulatory aspects governing the use of such products. Testing of
antiperspirant efficiency.
7- Antiwrinkle preparations and vanishing & emollient creams
Changes of skin associated with this type of disorder, classes, effective

antiwrinkling agents, formulation examples, and treatment by cosmetic surgery.
Function and formulation examples for vanishing and emollient preparations,
requirements for involved ingredients, and method of their preparation.
-Shave
preparations
Wet and dry shaving preparations, general formulations. Aftershave preparations;
aftershave lotions, after-shave gels, after-shave balms and after-shave powders,
typical formulation examples and methods for preparation.
8- Anti-acne products
Etiology and symptoms, concerns about comedogenicity of cosmetic ingredients.
Oily skin and treatment; cleansing preparations, absorbents and liquid foundations.
Ingredients for treatment of acne; benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sulfur.
Adjunctive therapies like antimicrobials, tretinoin, vit A esters, and alpha-hydroxy
acids.
9- Mouth and oral care problems & products
Fundamental of oral anatomy, physiology and microbiology. The teeth, the gum,
saliva. Dental problems: dental pellicle, dental plaque, dental calculus (tartar),
dental caries, periodontal diseases, dental stains, and oral malodor. Oral care
products: dentifrices; ingredients and function, parameters, formulation of powder
and paste dentifrices. Denture cleaners: composition and function. Mouthwashes:
essential & miscellaneous ingredients, formulation examples, manufacture and
testing.
10- Hair cosmetics
-Shampoos and after shampoo conditioners
Function and requirements. Surfactants function in shampoos, examples,
mechanism of hair cleaning. Effects of shampoos on hair: direct & indirect
damage, damage to chemically treated hair. Additional ingredients in shampoos:
viscosity modifiers, opacifying and clarifying agents, antioxidants/sequesterants/
UV-Absorbers, and fragrance. Formulation examples: cleaning , mild (baby)
shampoo, conditioning and antidandruff shampoos. Criteria for evaluation of
shampoos: ease of use, lather, rinsability, softness, manageability and ease of hair
combing.
11 - Hair cosmetics (Cont.)
Hair colorant/styling
Cateogries of hair colorants: temporary, semipermanent and permanent coloring.
Characteristics of ideal colorants: stability, compatibility, affinity for hair keratin.

Permanent hair coloring constituents and mechanism, formulation examples and
method of application. Hair setting (styling): mechanism of hair styling, effect of
styling products, formulations and role of ingredients. Types of products according
to viscosity; gels & cream gels, ringing gels, pomades & styling sticks: liquids&
lotions, Glazes& sculpting lotions.
12- Nail cosmetic preparations
Nail polish: requirements and formulations. Production and controls, hazards
associated with flammable solvents. Other nail care products: nail strengthener,
nail bleach, cuticle softener, and cuticle removers. Formulation examples of the
different products.

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What topics will be covered in the course?

What are the objectives of the course?

Elective course title: Cosmetic Preparations.

Brief Course Description:

Course outline (Content of each lecture):

Changes of skin associated with this type of disorder, classes, effective

Characteristics of ideal colorants: stability, compatibility, affinity for hair keratin.

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