The Parminter Cousins
The Parminter Cousins
The Parminter Cousins
Phil Smith
1/
They had set off in 1784 and made a slow but painstaking
progress through France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland and
possibly Portugal and Spain. Please note that “possibly” –
because in researching the history of the Parminter cousins
and their house here I have probably turned up more
“possibly” than anything else.
If you hold them. You’ll feel that they are quite light, because
I didn’t bring many things back with me from Vienna – just a
couple of things for my children.
But when the Parminters came back from their tour they
brought back many, many things.
For those of you who haven’t been inside yet, the central room
of the house runs from the upper ground floor all the way up
to the roof. And down from the very centre of that roof is hung
a long steel wire that reaches down almost to the floor of the
central room. Now, there are two things hanging on this wire –
I shall come to the very lowest thing a little later. But just
above it is a very significant thing.
And what you will find if you look through the house is that so
much of it is decorated with exactly that… with feathers and
shells and with plants – most strikingly with seaweed.
But for the first part of our walk, we’re going to walk around
the perimeter of the Parminters’ garden – just as it’s believed
that the cousins themselves would have done each day.
And as we go I’d like you to look out for plants and animals,
use your eyes like digital cameras – and store as many images
in your head as you can. Immerse yourself in the natural part
of this garden.
(SHOW PICTURES.)
So - nature in a very artificial and constructed space.
But why? People have had all sorts of theories: that the shape
is based on a South Sea Islands hut, a Chinese temple, or more
prosaically, on eight-sided summerhouses that were popular in
England at the time. But the explanation which seems to have
gathered most enthusiasm – perhaps because it is both logical,
but also suggestive – is that the cousins were inspired to live
in a house built around eight sides by their visit – on their
Grand Tour - to the Italian city of Ravenna and specifically to
the Cathedral of Saint Vitale.
And here’s a picture of the cathedral at Ravenna…
There are a couple of things to point out here – first the key
symmetrical inside shape is not clear from the outside. Just
like here. Also, the outer shell is fairly dour – and if we look at
how A La Ronde first appeared, before the roof was tiled and
the extra windows put in…
(SHOW.)
(SHOW.)
And what they have most in common is that that they are
constructed around a dome supported on an octagon of walls –
significantly, neither of which is photographed here.”
The dome was the key architectural development of Byzantine
architecture – and the cathedral at Saint Vitale is a very
important example, - begun in 527 and completed in 548 - it is
a model, a message to everyone of the superiority of the
Christian Byzantine Empire, a message sent from the
Byzantine emperor Justinian, telling the world that his empire
is here to stay, that his capture of Ravenna from the pagan
Ostrogaths has secured for him the centre of the Eastern part
of his empire and is now the launch pad for winning back
Western Europe for Christianity and wresting it back from the
northern European pagans.
There are two things to point out about Saint Vitale at this
point – but it will come back later in our journey –
The first thing is the mosaics: the basilica (or dome) and the
rest of the interior are covered – just like much of the interior
of A La Ronde - in spectacular mosaics.
Now, there are lots of ways that artists and architects can use
shapes to create illusions … and I’ve got a book here with a
few:
Well, it’s the same basic trick at work here – using the
mechanics of our brains and eyes to create illusions.
First of all the arches are designed to look as if they could not
possibly be holding up the dome. To give the impression that
it’s floating in the air. And then to add to this effect the
symmetry of the central form of the cathedral is disrupted by
building the so-called “narthex” off the axis - which is why the
church looks jumbled from the outside.
From the inside this makes the building a mystery. It’s hard to
read the way the building works, to see where the load of the
dome might be supported – indeed the idea is to suggest that
perhaps it is only by the invisible will and action of God that
the dome is supported.
So, let’s continue on our tour. But this time as well as noticing
the natural world – the animals, the plants – also have in your
mind the very unnatural world of geometry and symmetry…
So, we’re going to walk towards and then away from the
house now – we’re going to break up our ‘global’ walk around
A la Ronde. After all, the Parminter cousins’ Grand Tour –
despite their placing a globe at the centre of their house – was
very far from global. Though to them it probably felt as if the
had seen the world.
Just as you collected animals and plants - this time see how
many symmetrical shapes you can collect in your head.
I’m stopping here because of this big oak tree here, because
there is an important story about the older oak trees here.
But first I want to tell you about oak trees and my own
travelling. Because this Easter, for just over a couple of weeks
I followed the route of a walk first made a hundred years ago
by a Manchester engineer called Charles Hurst.
John Way had made his money from land. He was a very
devout man and he wished to pass on his wealth so it might be
used for religious purposes, but he was not sure if he could
trust any of his relatives. Finally, he found a distant relative he
thought he could trust and after interviewing the man he was
confident that he could trust him to spend the money well. So
he suggested to his heir-to-be that they settle their agreement
with a small glass of port.
Unfortunately, John Way could not get the cork out of the port
bottle. But the heir-to-be leapt to his aid producing a
corkscrew from his pocket and successfully opened the bottle
of port.
John Way was pleased and together they toasted the deal.
But later, before John Way had signed the papers, he began to
wonder if his money would be so safe with a man who always
kept a corkscrew in his pocket and he cancelled the deal.
Eventually, in 1804, he gave his money - 300,000 pounds –
many millions in today’s money - to Lewis Way, a barrister –
attracted first by their common surname and then by Lewis
Way’s devout character.
… two shapes arise from this story, both from nature and from
symmetry…
First the corkscrew: this form appears in many sea shells – the
key material for the decoration of A la Ronde.
And then the branches of the oak – which might seem to have
no symmetry at all, with their wandering – and yet… and this
is something pointed out first by Leonardo Da Vinci – if you
take a cross section through any part of the tree – bottom of
the trunk, first spread into thick boughs, higher up the spread
of smaller branches – in each case the total cross-sectional
area remains the same. Unity is present symbolically even
when not in appearance.
Jane Parminter’s diary of the Grand Tour breaks off after only
a few weeks, when the party reaches Dijon. Nothing of
Ravenna and what it might have meant to the cousins,
unfortunately.
Jane and Mary, though the longer parts of their Grand Tour
were made by coach, would have made far more of the Tour
on foot than modern tourists. And from what we have of
Jane’s diary we know that they visited many sites in any one
day.
6/ The Plinth.
(LISTEN TO SUGGESTIONS.)
And would you like to model the pose that you would like
them take?
Are there any forbidden idols you would like to put up there
on the plinth?
(ACT OUT.)
Well, now I should play Moses and tell you all off and burn
your idol and crush it into powder and mix it on water and
force you to dink it… but I think we’ll just keep going –
heading for the desert of Summer Lane.
Just before we go – so we can reach the climax of our story –
literally the climax to all our stories – maybe I should tell you
one last tale from my own Grand Tour – because it involves a
statue. Preparing for one of my walks in Naples and looking
up I suddenly realised that I was looking straight into the eyes
of the great Neapolitan philosopher Giambattista Vico- who
died 50 years before the Parminters began their Grand Tour –
although they visited Naples at a time when the memory and
influence of Vico would still have been very strong.
But let’s go now – keep your eyes peeled for the re-emerging
of symmetry.
7/ The View
And there it is, the remnants of a 300 million year old desert –
the sandy outcrop of Langstone Rock.
And here is some sand from the beach on the bay of Naples –
the bay which the Parminter cousins are reported to have said
was recalled to them by seeing the very sight you are seeing
now.
And is that what the cousins believed too – remember all those
shells in the house? Were they imaging it underwater? A
world once more underwater? Remember the seaweed in the
house?
And that key central room – look at this wallpaper (SHOW
PHOTO OF WALLPAPER IN THE CENTRAL ROOM) first
installed during the cousins’ time – does it represent, as the
official guidebook suggests, an undersea cave covered in
seaweed and lit from the shell grotto above?
And what of that dove and olive branch? Isn’t that the dove
that brings exactly this evidence of dry land and trees to Noah
while at sea in his ark? Trees, that according to Vico, will
grow into a huge forest, blotting out the Aten, the sun disc,
and destroying the unity of humanity, reducing people to
lonely wanderers?
The King Louis and the Marie Antoniette, whom they had
observed from a distance in France, had been swept away by
revolution. They might have known of Nancy Perriam from
Exmouth, a woman who fought in some of the major sea
battles against the revolutionary French and who, unlike most
of the invisible women of the navy became well known. They
would have seen the French prisoners of the war marched
along the lanes.
Surely is too wild and exotic for two spinster cousins, often
described in the guidebooks as “eccentric” – but we should
beware of stamping them with our own stereotype. In Jane’s
diary – that part of it we have – it is the bizarre and exotic that
seems to have appealed: the cabinets of curiosities, the
rhinoceros and pelicans… and an interesting sensibility, for
while writing appreciatively of formal French gardens, with
fountains and cascades, she expresses her preference of a
natural landscape… and it is this combination of the natural
and the abstract we find in all that the Parminters do.
8/ The Point
For The Point – which the cousins believed was swinging into
“View” – was shortly to come about – and that was the
conversion of the Jews to Christianity and their return to a
Christian Israel.
And these buildings before us, which are like a shell around
that small chapel in the centre, were specifically created to
house Jewish widows who had converted to Christianity. And
for the Christian education of their children… this complex is
a generator, a practical thing, for bringing about the final days.
The end times.
And you should ask yourself how much you should accept
from me, dressed in this cream suit and shades, looking like a
third hand Jonathan Meades?
But money does not always talk. And for all the pamphlets
and missions conversions were few, rarely significant and
sometimes fraudulent.
For a moment, let’s got into the Chapel remembering the text
which once used to decorate the door here:
Thank you.