Mold Remediation in

Occupied Homes
Research Report - 0210
January-2002
Joseph Lstiburek, Terry Brennan and Nathan Yost
Abstract:
This article provides both general guidelines for mold remediation as well as specific
guidelines for the typical locations where mold is most often found in houses.
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2008 Building Science Press All rights of reproduction in any form reserved.
2002 Building Science Corporation Page 1
Mold Remediation in Occupied
Homes
Nathan Yost, MD
Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D, P.Eng.
Terry Brennan, MS
Introduction
The recommendations presented are based on the
current NYC Health Department guidelines. The purpose of
this document is to assist builders with the decisions regard-
ing what to do and how to do it when mold is found in
specific locations. The New York City guidelines are based
on the area (number of square feet) that have mold on them.
Unfortunately the area of involvement is often difficult to
determine before removing sheathing or gypsum board.
These recommendations are based on typical locations where
moisture and mold occur in houses. Each case, however, is
somewhat different, so proceed with caution and realize that
the problem might be greater than anticipated.
Four Steps for Responding to Mold
Problems
1. Respond quickly with appropriate actions to stop
water damage and limit potential exposure to occupants
2. Identify:
The cause of the moisture problem
The extent of contamination
The safety precautions for remediation
3. Implement remediation
Remove damaged material that cannot be effectively
cleaned or that is more expensive to clean than replace.
Clean and salvage materials that are not severely
damaged.
Dispose of the damaged material in an appropriate
manner. Moldy materials can be sent to a regular landfill.
Seal them in plastic bags to protect workers while the material
is in transit.
4. Repair and replace removed materials incorporating
the necessary changes to correct the underlying moisture
problem.
Dry out the area being remediated before closing in a
wall or ceiling.
General Recommendations
Carefully assess the problem before beginning the
cleanup. If the moisture problem started in a closed cavity
(wall, ceiling or floor), the mold that can be seen may be only
a fraction of the mold present. Put another way, there may be
a lot more mold in the wall than you think there is. Assume
and prepare for the worst, while hoping for the best.
Discuss the planned work with the owner and occu-
pants. It is easier to address their concerns before you begin
the work.
Perform the work in a manner that minimizes the risk to
the workers doing the remediation and the occupants of the
building. Opening moldy wall cavities can release millions of
mold spores and mold parts; inhaling these spores and body
parts along with their associated toxins can potentially cause
health problems.
Make certain that the workers understand how to do
the work and what they need to do to protect themselves and
the occupants of the building..
Dispose of the damaged material in an appropriate
manner. Moldy materials can be sent to a regular landfill.
Sealing them in plastic bags protects workers while the
material is in transit.
Whenever possible remove moldy material through a
window or door to minimize the chance that mold will be
released into the rest of the building. Transporting moldy
materials through clean areas should be minimized.
Clean before you dry. Drying before cleaning can cause
mold to become airborne.
You do not have to kill mold in order to clean up mold.
Cleaning up mold in essence means removing mold. Biocides
can be more dangerous than the mold. Dont use bleach; use
soap and water. Bleach kills, but it does not clean (remove)
the mold.
In single family residential buildings it is often possible
to pressurize the occupied portion of the building rather than
to depressurize the work area. For example, if the problem is
a moldy crawlspace, pressurize the upstairs using a fan door.
Workers with appropriate personal protection can perform the
work by entering through an exterior access, avoiding air-
locks, protection of furnishings and passing contaminated
material through the occupied space. If there is not an
external access, make one. This makes the clean-up much
simpler and safer. Attics, garages, basements and easily
isolated additions can be treated this way. Special attention
must be paid to any air ducts that are located in the contami-
nated area.
Deciding Whether a Material
Should be Replaced or Salvaged
The general guidance is that soft, absorbent materials
that contain a carbon source easily accessible to mold should
be discarded unless there are compelling reasons to attempt to
salvage them. Paper, textiles and paper covered gypsum board
are examples of materials that should usually be discarded. If
there is only a small amount of obviously superficial contami-
nation, these materials may be cleaned (soap and water). If
they have more than a few colonies, but are worth enough to
salvage (e.g. books, art work, musical instruments, vintage
carpets), they are worth enough that the salvage work should
be performed by specialists.
Materials like lumber, plywood, oriented strand board
(OSB), particle board, paper covered gypsum board may or
may not be salvageable. The base case test is - has the
material lost structural integrity? Most mold species cannot
degrade the cellulose-lignin cell wall of intact lumber (there
are, of course, a few exceptions - stachybotrys and fusarium
for example). So mold growing on solid lumber is most likely
a surface contamination issue, not a structural issue. It can be
cleaned, dried and salvaged. If solid lumber has lost structural
integrity, then it has been colonized by wood decay fungi and
probably certain bacteria and that portion must be replaced.
RR-0210: Mold Remediation in Occupied Homes
2002 Building Science Corporation Page 2
However, composite materials that are composed of
wood held together with adhesives are a different story. Many
of the adhesives can be degraded by fungal hyphae, at which
time they begin to lose structural integrity (visualize hard-
board siding or particle board that has turned to mush). So if
one of these materials has only superficial mold, it can be
cleaned and salvaged; but if its decomposing it should be
replaced. A good motto is when in doubt, throw it out.
Generally, the more a product is composed of solid wooden
pieces the more resistant it is to penetration and damage by
mold.
Use a pocket knife or ice pick to determine the depth of
damage.
For rotted wood, cut it out. For moldy wood, clean it
with soap and water and elbow grease. Do not sand it. If you
have to sand it to clean it, its not mold, its rot. If its rot, cut
it out and get rid of it. Wood may be permanently stained
(discolored) after youve clean it. If this bothers you, paint it
with latex paint (because latex paint breathes). In rare
instances sanding may be justified such as on structural
members that may be difficult to remove. Leave such a
decision to a qualified expert.
Cleanup Recommendations for
Specific Situations
Surface mold due to condensation less than 10 square feet
Examples - bathroom ceiling, exterior wall in a closet,
exterior wall behind furniture, boxes, shelving
Correct the problem that caused condensation.
Wash the mold area with soapy water and rinse thoroughly.
Allow the surface to completely dry.
Repaint if needed; superficial discoloration may remain.
If the mold has penetrated below the surface (as on gypsum
board) remove involved material and approximately one
foot of uninvolved board in all directions. A general rule is
to remove the gypsum board from one stud cavity on each
side of the area that has mold growth and one foot above
and below the area that has mold.
Personal protective equipment (PPE): N95 mask, rubber
gloves and eye protection.
No containment is necessary
Mold in a wall cavity less than 10 square feet
Examples - under a window due to window leak; in a
ceiling or wall due to a roof leak; in a bathroom wall due to
a leaking pipe.
Turn off the air handler (furnace or air conditioner)
supplying the work area.
Determine the extent of the area that has mold growth
before proceeding with this set of guidelines. This can
sometimes be done by removing the baseboard and
checking the bottom plate or cutting small holes in the
gypsum board behind the baseboard. A hole saw can be
used to cut inspection holes that are easily repaired.
Remove the contaminated gypsum board and approxi-
mately one foot of uninvolved board in all directions. A
general rule is to remove the gypsum board from one stud
cavity on each side of the area that has mold growth and
one foot above and below the area that has mold.
Vacuum while cutting the gypsum board using a HEPA
vacuum or a vacuum with a high efficiency collection bag
and vent the vacuum to the outside.
Vacuum all moldy surfaces thoroughly. Vacuum surfaces
before damp wiping or scrubbing.
Damp wipe all surfaces with disposable wipes.
If after vacuuming, mold growth is present, scrub the
surface using soapy water and thoroughly rinse.
Allow the wood framing to thoroughly dry before installing
new gypsum board. This will usually mean returning at
least a day later, or longer. Measure the moisture content
with a moisture meter. Wooden materials should be less
than 15 per cent moisture content by weight and concrete
should be less than 4 per cent moisture content by weight.
Drying can be accelerated by using heat lamps and a
dehumidifier. Do not use fans blowing against the wall
surfaces.
You are done when all visible mold is removed and no dust
is present (the white glove test).
PPE N95 mask, rubber gloves, eye protection.
All contaminated material should be placed in plastic bags
at least 6 mil in thickness, double bagged and disposed of
as regular trash.
Containment although not required by the NYC Dept. of
Health Guidelines, the use of an exhaust fan is recom-
mended. This could be a bathroom fan ducted to the
outside or a vacuum cleaner located outside that has its
vacuum hose entering through a window. To do this, use a
piece of sheathing that is the width of the window opening
and several inches higher than the diameter of the vacuum
hose. Use a hole saw to cut a hole in the sheathing into
which the vacuum hose can be inserted.
Medium size areas of mold involvement in wall cavities
10 to 30 square feet (one 4 x 8 sheet of gypsum board )
Examples: window or roof leaks; slow bathroom
plumbing leak
Turn off air handler (furnace or air conditioner) supplying
work area.
Work area should be unoccupied.
Erect a containment barrier using plastic sheeting to isolate
the work area from the rest of the house.
Exhaust the work area with a fan ducted to the outside or,
alternatively, pressurize the area outside the work area.
Determine the extent of the area that has mold growth
before proceeding with this set of guidelines. This can
sometimes be done by removing the baseboard and
checking the bottom plate or cutting small holes in the
gypsum board behind the baseboard. A hole saw can be
used to cut inspection holes that are easily repaired.
Remove the contaminated gypsum board and approxi-
mately one foot of uninvolved board in all directions. A
general rule is to remove the gypsum board from one stud
RR-0210: Mold Remediation in Occupied Homes
2002 Building Science Corporation Page 3
cavity on each side of the area that has mold growth and
one foot above and below the area that has mold.
Vacuum while cutting the gypsum board using a HEPA
vacuum or a vacuum with a high efficiency collection bag
and vent the vacuum to the outside.
Vacuum all moldy surfaces thoroughly. Vacuum surfaces
before damp wiping or scrubbing.
Damp wipe all surfaces with disposable wipes.
Scrub any wood that has mold growth using soapy water
and thoroughly rinse.
Drying can be accelerated by using heat lamps and a
dehumidifier. Do not use fans blowing against the wall
surfaces.
Allow the wood to thoroughly dry before installing new
gypsum board. This will usually mean returning at least a
day later, or longer. Measure the moisture content with a
moisture meter. Wooden materials should be less than 15
per cent moisture content by weight and concrete should be
less than 4 per cent moisture content by weight.
You are done when all visible mold is removed and no dust
is present (the white glove test).
PPE N95 mask, rubber gloves, eye protection.
All contaminated material should be placed in plastic bags
at least 6 mil in thickness, double bagged and disposed of
as regular trash.
Large areas of mold contamination (greater than 30
square feet) require more extensive investigation and usually
should be done by professionals with training and experience
in remediating contaminated buildings. As the area of
contamination becomes greater the need for adequate
containment increases. This often requires more sophisticated
barriers, entry chambers and maintenance of decreased air
pressure in the work area or increased air pressure in sur-
rounding areas.
There are, however, a few special situations in which a
builders own workers can safely remediate an area of mold
contamination that exceeds 30 square feet. These are areas
easily isolated from the rest of the building and that have
separate means of egress (doors or windows). Crawl spaces,
attics and building additions or wings are examples of this
type.
Seal openings between the work area and the rest of the
home. If air ducts are located in the contaminated are, they
should be sealed to protect them during the remediation. It
is possible that the air ducts are already contaminated so
they should be inspected as part of the remediation process.
Evacuate the areas of the home adjoining the work area so
that if containment is lost unprotected individuals will not be
exposed. Better still, evacuate the home during the clean up.
This issue needs to be addressed on a case by case basis
before the work begins.
Maintain a lower air pressure in the work area than in the
adjoining areas by using a HEPA machine or a fan ex-
hausted to the outside with HEPA filtration. Alternatively,
maintain a higher air pressure in the surrounding areas
using a fan door (blower door).
Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection
without vents, disposable protective clothing that also
covers the head and feet and at a minimum a N95 respira-
tor. Consider use of full-face mask respirators with HEPA
filtration canisters.
The remainder of the clean-up is similar to that for smaller
areas.
In many instances where mold is found in exterior walls
much of the work can be done from the outside. Houses with
easy to remove cladding such as vinyl siding are ideally suited
for this approach. The entire home can be pressurized when
the work is being done from the outside. A plastic sheet taped
to the interior of the exterior wall can be used to provide the
containment barrier.
Large areas inside of homes (not within exterior
walls) - (more than 100 square feet of mold damaged
material) require individuals with training and experience in
remediating extensively contaminated buildings. See the New
York City Guidelines below.
The New York City Department of
Healths Guidelines for Mold
Remediation
Introduction
Although our recommendations are directed to specific
locations or types of mold problems, we will briefly discuss
the New York City Guidelines.
Level I - small isolated areas: less than 10 square feet, e.g.
Ceiling tiles, small areas on walls
Can be performed by regular maintenance staff.
Personal protective equipment: N95 disposable respirator,
gloves and eye protection.
The work area should be unoccupied.
Containment of the work area is not necessary. Suppress
dust production by misting surfaces prior to removing.
Contaminated materials that are removed should be sealed
in plastic bags.
Scrub contaminated materials with soap and water; rinse
thoroughly and allow to dry.
HEPA vacuum the work area so that it is free of dust.
Level II - mid-sized isolated areas: 10-30 square feet
May be performed by regular maintenance staff.
Personal protective equipment: N95 disposable respirator,
gloves and eye protection.
The work area should be unoccupied.
The work area should be isolated from the rest of the
building using polyethylene sheeting that is sealed with
tape.
RR-0210: Mold Remediation in Occupied Homes
2002 Building Science Corporation Page 4
Contaminated materials that are removed should be sealed
in plastic bags.
Scrub contaminated materials with soap and water; rinse
thoroughly; and allow to dry.
The work area and the access areas should be HEPA
vacuumed and cleaned with disposable damp cloths.
Level III - large isolated areas : 30-100 square feet.
Consult a health and safety professional with experience
performing microbial investigations.
Work should be done by individuals trained in handling
hazardous materials.
Personal protective equipment: N95 disposable respirator,
gloves and eye protection.
The work area should be unoccupied.
The work area should be isolated from the rest of the
building using polyethylene sheeting that is sealed with
tape.
Contaminated materials that are removed should be sealed
in plastic bags.
Scrub contaminated materials with soap and water; rinse
thoroughly; and allow to dry.
The work area and the access areas should be HEPA
vacuumed and cleaned with disposable damp cloths.
Level IV extensive contamination: greater than 100 square
feet in one area.
Consult a health and safety professional with experience
performing microbial investigations.
Work should be done by individuals trained in handling
hazardous materials.
Personal protective equipment: full-face respirator with
HEPA cartridges, gloves and disposable protective clothing
covering that also covers head and shoes.
The work area should be unoccupied.
The work area should be isolated from the rest of the
building using polyethylene sheeting that is sealed with
tape.
Use an exhaust fan with a HEPA filter to generate negative
pressure in the work (containment area).
Use air locks
Contaminated materials that are removed should be sealed
in plastic bags.
Scrub contaminated materials with soap and water; rinse
thoroughly; and allow to dry.
The work area and the access areas should be HEPA
vacuumed and cleaned with disposable damp cloths.
RR-0210: Mold Remediation in Occupied Homes
Mold Remediation in Occupied Homes
About the Authors
Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D., P.Eng., is a principal of Building Science Corporation in
Westford, Massachusetts. Joe is an ASHRAE Fellow and an internationally recognized
authority on indoor air quality, moisture, and condensation in buildings. More
information about Joseph Lstiburek can be found at
www.buildingscienceconsulting.com.
Terry Brennan, MS, is a building scientist and educator with Camroden Associates,
Westmoreland, New York.
Nathan Yost, MD, investigated mold and moisture issues for Building Science
Corporation.
Direct all correspondence to: Building Science Corporation, 30 Forest Street,
Somerville, MA 02143.
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