Six themes,

one continent.
A journey of
a lifetime
Europe
A thousand
dierent stories
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WHENEVER YOU' RE READY
The travel reports in this brochure were written by
an experienced journalist and editor for the European
Commission in 2013. The reports were part of the
Europe Whenever youre ready international tourism
communication campaign, which aimed at attracting
tourists to Europe from various third countries.
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Directorate-General
for Enterprise and Industry
EUROPEAN COMMI SSI ON
2014
Europe A thousand
dierent stories
Six themes, one continent. A journey of a lifetime
FOREWORD
EUROPE A THOUSAND
DIFFERENT STORIES
Europe offers travelers a rich blend of unrivalled cultural heritage and natural beauty. Tourists can marvel
at feats of architecture, embrace millennia of diverse culture, enjoy fne culinary creations, and appreciate
stunning natural landscapes ranging from the sandy beaches of the Mediterranean to the vast snow covered
expanses of the Arctic tundra.
It is no wonder then that millions of people from all over the world come to Europe every year to explore,
discover, and take in all the wonders that the continent has to offer. Whatever it is youre looking for, whether
for relaxation or adventure, you can be sure to fnd it in Europe.
With so many choices and almost endless possibilities however, it can sometimes be diffcult to get started.
The European Commissions Europe Whenever youre ready campaign was launched to showcase the
diversity that Europe has to offer. Financed by the European Commission, the campaign aimed to encourage
tourists from Brazil, Russia, India, China, Chile and Argentina to discover the old continent and to enjoy the
travel experience of a lifetime. The campaign ran from October 2012 to December 2013.
As part of the campaign, we compiled a series of travel reports in this book focusing on popular travel themes.
Our contributors frst-hand experiences, captured in campaign exclusive content, help to unlock the not-
to-be missed sights as well as the roads less travelled of European destinations. So whether its to discover
Europes modern creative hotspots or uncover the grandeur of its old monarchies, we hope to see you in
Europe soon.
Antonio Tajani, Vice-President of the European Commission
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INTRODUCTION
EUROPES HIDDEN GEMS
AND MEMORIES TO TREASURE
It was a Monday and I was in southern Europe visiting the Madrid caf where King Juan Carlos likes to eat
fried eggs. A day later, I was north of the Arctic Circle watching a couple get married in Swedens Ice Hotel
(the bride wore thermal boots). By Thursday I was listening to musicians in Killarney in Ireland and at the
weekend I few east to Slovenia to learn about bears on Triglav Mountain.
In just over a week Id travelled to all four corners of Europe and enjoyed unexpected experiences that will
stay with me forever. But this trip was not extraordinary. Anyone can do it. Compared to Russia, China, India,
or Brazil, Europe is tiny.
Within a few hours I few from Latvias medieval forests to Viennas dancing horses; from Greeces hidden
villages to Lisbons soaring architecture; from Milans new fashionistas to Germanys secret islands; and from
Helsinkis edgy design district to Pragues gruesome ghosts.
This was Europe beyond the obvious. Of course travellers want to see the Eiffel Tower and Buckingham Palace.
But while in Paris, why not explore the artists district of Belleville? Or when in London, why not take 15 min-
utes to visit the man who makes Prince Williams shoes?
And thats why the European Commission insisted that the Europe Whenever Youre Ready campaign should
focus on exploring Europes hidden gems. In Europe, anything is possible. For me these experiences were
an incredible privilege, but they were also a privilege everyone can and should take time to enjoy.
Andy Round, Travel journalist
5
READY
FOR NEW
STYLES?
TABLE OF CONTENTS
READY FOR NEW STYLES? 7
Paris, Milan and Helsinki
READY TO BE AWED? 27
Prague, Lisbon and Vilnius
READY TO NEW HORIZONS? 49
Greece, Germany, Ireland and Croatia
READY TO BE AMAZED? 77
Denmark, Spain and the United Kingdom
READY TO MOVE? 99
Bovec, Kiruna and Vienna
READY FOR LOVE? 121
Cyprus, Italy and Latvia
6
EUROPES HOT SPOTS
FOR CREATIVE COOL
EUROPE HAS ALWAYS BEEN IRRESISTIBLE TO SHOPPERS, BUT BEYOND THE BIG
BRANDS AND FAMOUS STREETS OF SOME OF THE WORLDS MOST FAMOUS CITIES
ARE LESSER-KNOWN DISTRICTS THAT ARE INSPIRING A NEW GENERATION OF
EUROPEAN CREATIVITY.
Andy Round offers fresh insight on Paris, Milan and Helsinki and explores the city neighbourhoods that
are inspiring a new European cultural renaissance from art and design to fashion and furniture. Three very
different destinations, but with one common thread: each city is perfect for discovering Europes freshest crea-
tive talent.
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MILANS VIBRANT BRERA DISTRICT OFFERS AN IMMACULATELY GROOMED
ALTERNATIVE TO THE ITALIAN CITYS BIG BRAND SUPER STREETS.
LIVING LA VIDA MODA
It is the last day of Milan Fashion Week in September
and the paparazzi is stumbling backwards down the
crowded streets of Brera, cameras whirring as they
capture waif-thin models with endless legs emerging
from another catwalk show.
At this time of year it is hard to tell the models from
the stylists, the buyers from the bystanders. Every-
one is armed with cases, cameras and an attitude as
carefully cultivated as their haircuts.
Construction workers in overalls grin as the fash-
ionable herd jostle past, wearing clothes that prob-
ably cost the GDP of small country.
The photographers have to move fast, but the girls
just melt into a human sea of prt--porter with
a snatched Ciao, see you in Paris.
Anyone with a passion for fashion makes the pil-
grimage to Milan for Fashion Week.
Breras polished cobbled streets attract the same
expensive European heels that would clatter along
the boutique streets of Londons Notting Hill, UK;
Brussels sleek Sablon square, Belgium; or Berlins
tree-lined Kurfrstendamm avenue in Germany.
Clutching her next show invite is fashion student
Greta Torresi. How much do I spend on clothes?
Too much, she says.
At a Brera corner caf, Ludovico Loffreda swipes
through images on his smartphone. He has just be-
come a designer for an international menswear brand
for Gil Sander, but still has time to create his own col-
lection, featuring humorous pop art images of his own
distinctive face.
Ludovico is just 24 years old and his fashion future
is brighter than the glistening marble of Milans
Duomo. He pauses over his phone to show the
award-winning lingerie he designed recently for
Danish supermodel Helena Christensen.
Why are Milan and Brera important? The fashion
schools here reinforce relationships with big com-
panies and people come for that, he says. In my
school there were students from Poland, Spain,
Japan, South Korea Paris is good for couture, but
Milan is good for learning business.
11 10
It is a business that can be precarious. Award-winning
designer Marta Forghieri, 32, is the head of design for
Mila Schn Concept, but in 2011 also launched her
new womens brand Smarteez with Pliss Srl.
She knows the formula for fashion success, but says
getting money for shows, convincing buyers, getting
into shops, and meeting orders can be challenging
for young companies. Still, it depends how you de-
fne success. Its a passion for me. I love what I do,
asserts Marta.
FLORESCENT NAIL VARNISH
Stefano Coletti is another dedicated follower of
fashion. The photographer, blogger for the Italian
version of Vogue, flm producer and founder of the
fashion blog thestreetfashion5expro often visits
Brera for inspiration. Tapping his tablet computer he
reveals how fuorescent nail varnish splashed onto
pairs of shorts can evolve into an unlikely street
trend within days.
Real fashion is on the streets. Its the combination
of vintage with an obvious big brand name. Its the
pink hair style that ends up on the catwalk.
But Brera is not just about fashion. In April 2012
more than 330 000 people few into the city for
the worlds biggest design fair, the annual Salone
Internazionale del Mobile. The best events found
a warm welcome in Breras secret courtyards.
The fair is about experiencing designs, not just see-
ing them online, says Sergio Riga, owner of Breras
Dilmos design store. Its about connecting with
people and meeting young designers face to face.
>>
Anyone with a passion
for fashion makes
the pilgrimage to Milan
for Fashion Week.
I think Milan has lost a lot of its spontaneity, with
too many huge brands that you can see in any city,
he says. But students come from all over the world
to our courses in Brera and their passion will ensure
it continues to be a centre for creativity.
Dr Luca Ghirardosi, fashion coordinator at
the famous Academy of Brera, is nurturing the next
generation of designers.
13 12
ARTISTIC INSPIRATION
The Pinacoteca museum gives Brera its artistic soul thanks to seminal artworks such as Caravaggios
painting from 1606 Supper at Emmaus. But for me this is the most important, says curator Emanuela
Daffra, standing in front of The Dead Christ painted by Andrea Mantegna in the late 15th century.
Its like nothing of its time. Its three-dimensional. The paleness demands contemplation and the
wounds look frighteningly fresh.
DESIGN CLASSIC
A short walk from Brera is Milans Triennale, the frst museum to be dedicated
to Italian design. Design follows social change and infuences it, says director
Silvana Annicchiarico. So we change our exhibitions entirely every year
because design is always changing. Its our job to tell the story so far.
Real fashion is on the streets. Its the combination of vintage
with an obvious big brand name. Its the pink hair style that
ends up on the catwalk.
Recent young designer additions to the store in-
clude work by 24-year-old Adrien Petrucci, whose
deconstructed cabinet interior is styled from shav-
ings takes pride of place next to Philippe Starck
chairs and Giulia Battisi prism tables.
Five minutes away is the showroom of an Italian fur-
niture icon Edra and 70-year-old Massimo Morozzi,
the companys art director. I have a problem, grins
the man who created concept cars for a Japanese
car company and whose designs are exhibited in
New Yorks Museum of Modern Art.
Im more interested in new techniques than the end
product. See this rosewood table? The white fashes?
These are parts of wood that are usually thrown
away. Here we made them into something unique.
There is a lot of creativity to savour in Brera. Just
walk the streets with Marco Torrani, president of
Brera Design District, an initiative created to pro-
mote the areas design stores.
Within a couple of hours you will fnd yourself lost
among outlets selling fantasy furniture by one of
Frances biggest names, an international brand show-
casing futuristic kitchens and vintage stores piled high
with 1950s pinball machines and velvet casino chairs.
BESPOKE PERFUMERY
Spend more time (ideally using a Brera Design Dis-
trict map) and you will discover stores selling antique
chairs upholstered in bright contemporary fabrics,
independent outlets selling affordable fashions from
around Europe, galleries featuring artwork from
Germany, Italy, France and Holland and even a be-
spoke perfumery selling scents that were created for
Catherine de Medici.
Breras design legacy started centuries ago. For
hundreds of years Brera was a base for artisans,
many of whom were involved in the construction
of Milans Duomo, says Marco.
MILAN USEFUL WEBSITES
breradesigndistrict.it (in Italian) triennale.it (English, Italian) brera.beniculturali.it (Italian)
www.tourism.milan.it (Italian, English, Chinese)
15 14
P
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THE PARISIAN DISTRICT OF BELLEVILLE IS AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF THE
FRENCH CAPITALS ARTISTIC MOVEMENT AND A HEAVEN FOR HIPSTERS.
ART WITH SOUL
Wild and wonderful things come to life in the Belleville
home of Laurent Debraux. Wobbly stools sway on
knives instead of legs, steel branches writhe roboti-
cally and black iron flings transform into a wriggling
caterpillars at the fick of a magnetic switch.
The birthplace of these kinetic creations is Laurents
workshop where skeletons of machinery lie among
the carcasses of clocks and endless bric-a-brac. I like
to take things apart. Give them new life, he says of his
sculptures. I cant paint, I cant draw, but I can make
people smile.
Offering a ferce independence reminiscent of the
Copenhagen bohemian district of Christianshavn
and an individualism that would not look out of place
in the independent artists neighbourhood state of
Uupis in Vilnius, Belleville is the epitome of a con-
temporary European creative district, slowly becom-
ing gentrifed but still with an appealing gritty edge.
In a hidden Belleville courtyard workshop, Catherine
Arnaud hacks 300 kg of alabaster into fragile tendrils
that appear as light as sea coral in complete creative
comfort.
Next door, Suzel Galia chips, drills, hacks and pol-
ishes a stones colours into the organic, shapes that
have sculpted her own international reputation.
I can make a lot of noise here in peace, she laughs.
REVOLUTIONARY PAST
This infux of new artists is the latest chapter in
Bellevilles history of low-income tenants and revo-
lutionary past, says Los Pommier, coordinator for
Ateliers dArtistes de Belleville. The organisation
was set up in 1990 to support independent art-
ists through tours, events and campaigns to protect
their creative spaces from development.
Stroll around with Los and he will reveal Bellevilles
hidden lanes, changing street art and fercely indi-
vidual architecture. In other words, the perfect place
for creativity to thrive. In 1990 there were 100 art-
ists here now there are 300, he says.
Annual open door events by Ateliers dArtistes de
Belleville, where the public can visit artists in their
studios, now attract up to 15 000 visitors every year
and have inspired similar events from Benin to Brazil.
Those opening their doors include painter Philippe
Barnier and Catalan charcoal artist Carlos Lopez who
arrived at Belleville 20 years ago.Why, here? The rents
were affordable and I liked the countryside feel of the
park and lanes.
Accessories designer Hlne Eber-Specher spent
time in Tokyo, Japan and made her frst bag from
a kimono. Belleville is now home to her. I love the
village feel here. It doesnt feel like Paris.
FABRIC PARROT
In the shop of couturier Stphanie Coudert, there
is a caged fabric parrot opposite a dress that looks
like a yeti on the run from Lady Gagas costume
department. Its made from hair extensions and
was created by Coudert for French singer Barbara
Carlotti.
17 16
If I had a place in the west of the city it would be
cramped and I would have to focus on being com-
mercial, she says. I dont want the weight of com-
merce on my shoulders, I want creative focus. Also,
as a child I spent time in Iran and Iraq and I love the
immigrant dialects that add personality to Belleville.
Indeed, immigration gives Belleville its distinctive
character. Home to Greeks, Jews and Armenians,
followed by Africans, its large China town is vibrant
testimony to the districts latest arrivals. I think the
character of Belleville is always changing, but its
sense of community is an important constant, says
Angnic Agnero, founder of walking tour company
Paris Par Rues Mconnues.
Its a sentiment repeated by every visitor. I was the
sort of baby that wore designer clothes and my par-
ents used to tell me not to come to Belleville be-
cause it was edgy, grins 25-year-old Capucine Piot,
founder of ber popular beauty addict blog babillag-
es.net and a former online editor for French Vogue.
But I come for street style, she says. Hipsters here
might adapt fashions that seem unbelievable at frst,
but that look will have taken a long time to get
right. Sometimes I cant believe the styles I see. Then
months later its everywhere.
One trend thats gaining momentum is the Biennale
de Belleville Since 2010 our aim has been to showcase
international and local talent, says curator Patrice Joly.
Weve put the district on the international creative
map. The Biennale in Venice cost 10 million euros,
but we did this for ffty-thousand. Belleville might not
have a lot of money, but we have a lot of passion.
>>
Belleville is the epitome of a contemporary European
creative district, slowly becoming gentrifed but still
with an appealing gritty edge.
HOT FAVORITE
ABelleville may change its style as fast as its street art, but there are plenty
of independent creatives nearby worth discovering.
> Centre Commercial offers vintage furniture, art and ethically-sourced
fashions at 2 Rue de Marseille, while four doors away Medecine Douce
crafts jewellery that combines gems with non-traditional materials.
> Inspired by South of France summers and bright 1930s imagery, Chichi Paris
is an elegant new accessories brand created by the dynamic design duo
of Tristan Lahoz and Anne-Line Desrousseaux.
> Fashion and food are served up in equally generous portions at Carmen
Ragostas chic and cheerful atelier/bistro at 8 Rue de la Grange aux Belles.
19 18
PARIS USEFUL WEBSITES
ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr (French) labiennaledebelleville.fr (French)
www.citemodedesign.fr (French) http://www.paris-prm.com (French and English)
TALES FROM THE RIVERBANK
Only 20 have been made and they sell for 12 000 US dollars, says designer Yiqing Yin,
revealing a dramatic fur coat, its micro-pleated layers cut into a striking sculpture.
I like to take traditional skills and give them a contemporary twist, she says.
Yin is one of the creative tenants working in Paris coolest new venue, Cit de la Mode
et du Design (City of Fashion and Design). Built on a former industrial wasteland on the
banks of the Seine river, close to Gare dAusterlitz, the complex provides studio space to
emerging and established designers.
It also offers space for fashion shows, pop-up exhibitions and is home to Paris famous
Institut Francais de la Mode (French Institute of Fashion), open air rooftop hangout
Wanderlust and boutiques that include Magasin 1 and Magasin 3 that showcase new
design talent and established favourites.
21 20
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DESIGN DISTRICT HELSINKI OFFERS A PERFECT INTRODUCTION
TO CONTEMPORARY AND CLASSIC FINNISH DESIGN, WHILE
NEARBY KALLIO SHOWCASES EDGY STYLES OF THE FUTURE.
CREATIVE CAPITAL
In Finland, good design has always been a way of life,
says Aino Vepslinen, project manager at Finlands
Design Forum. Form follows function.The aim of de-
sign is simply to make products and services do their
job better. Design is not a luxury in Finland. It is for
everyone.
Design is embedded in Helsinkis DNA. It is so good
you do not think about it. It is as ubiquitous as a Kaj
Franck coffee cup, as cutting edge as a Tapio Wirkkala
knife and as effortlessly cool as Eero Aarnios bub-
ble chair. Helsinki was voted World Design Capital in
2012, but the Forum has been promoting Finnish de-
sign with the Society of Crafts and Design since 1875.
Today the Forums shopping outlet is based in the
heart of the neighbourhood known as Design Dis-
trict Helsinki. It sells work by more than 300 Finnish
creatives, ranging from bulbous lamp designs by Kariin
Nuutinen to ceramic-glassware by Pia Wstenberg.
BOLD NEW IDEAS
Helsinki might give a stark frst impression but youll
soon discover a city packed with open-minded peo-
ple and bold new ideas, says Linda Bergroth, who with
the arts-design collective OK Do, won Design Forum
Finlands Young Designer of the Year Prize 2012.
Many of these creatives are in the heart of the De-
sign District, a neighbourhood of 25 streets, which
has become a hot spot for cool designers. It started
in 2005 with 50 members, but is now packed with
more than 200 stores, workshops and galleries.
Imagine the creative shops of SoFo, the designer
area South of Folkungagatan in Stockholm, mixed
with the vintage store vibe of Amsterdams De
Negen Straatjes and you get a good idea of what
Design District Helsinki is about. But best of all it is
ideal for anyone looking for a crash course in Finn-
ish creativity.
Start with the districts 140-year-old Design Mu-
seum to see how Finns took on the challenge of
manufacturing everything from scissors in the 17th
century to the mobile phone designs that defned
the 1980s, then go in search of some take-home
vintage classics.
Here in the centre of a giant underground space is
a beehive lamp by the legendary Alvar Aalto. What
price Finnish design? A new version of that lamp
would be 700 euros, says the stores Timo Penttil.
But an edition from 1950 was recently auctioned
for 60 000 euros. Prices for classic Finnish design
have soared in the past few years.
The districts streets are the perfect hunting ground
for the design classics of tomorrow, whether it is
the staple-gun art of Sasha Huber at photographer
Katja Hagelstams Lokal gallery, the paint-splashed
shoes of Minna Parikka, the contemporary glass and
ceramic of Anu Penttinen, or the bubble jewellery
of Anna Heino.
I think one of the reasons we have a vibrant design
tradition is that we have a strong history of crafts and
we are inspired by the nature around us, Heino says.
Natural inspiration is a creative thread for many
of the districts designers. Ilona Hytylinens new
range for Miun features fabrics printed with nature
photography, while Paola Suhonens latest collec-
tion is inspired by the countryside of the 1930s.
23 22
Suhonens label IVANAhelsinki signifcantly rede-
fned Finlands design landscape when she became
the frst Finnish fashion designer to be featured in
Paris Fashion Week. And that was only in 2007.
So what is the appeal of her style? Finland is at the
crossroads of Slavic and Scandinavian cultures, she
says. This has led to an interesting mix of dark and
light, pure shapes and traditional handcrafted de-
tails. Its a mix of melancholia and pure shapes.
INTERNATIONAL BUYERS
People like Paola made a difference, says fashion
designer Mirkka Metsola. International buyers know
about Finnish design now and that helps people
like me. Mirkka, who was formerly part of a group
of fashion designers known as FEM, now creates
two ranges per year and even showcases the work
of a collection of Dutch creatives known as Design-
ers On Tour.
However, Metsola prefers her workshop and store
to be based on the edgy streets of nearby Kallio.
It feels genuine here, says her neighbour Anna Ja-
akkola, who customises bicycles. Yes, the street life
is colourful, grins graphic artist Teemu Keisteri. But
Kallio is a great base for my work.
Nearby is the labyrinth of cooperative creativity
known as Made in Kallio. Here, workshops accom-
modate jewellers, printers, shoe designers, bicycle
makers, graphic experts, photographers and vid-
eographers. In rooms behind the caf, robotic arms
draft giant graphics, three-dimensional printers pop
out plastic fgurines and hydroponic plants are con-
trolled remotely.
Customers can enjoy a rare level of interaction
here, says co-founder Jon Sundell. They can see
the products and also spend time with the people
who produced them. We add another dimension of
creativity to the city.
DESIGN FOR LIVING
In 2013 the Finnish design legend Arabia celebrates
140 years of producing quality tableware. Why
should Arabia matter? In Finland we have grown up
with Arabia items around us, says the companys
Concept Manager Irina Viipola. We inherited these
affordable functional pieces from our mothers and
grandmothers.
Legendary designers such as Alvar Aalto created
glass for Arabia in the 1930s, while Kaj Franck revo-
lutionised tableware in the 1950s with multifunc-
tional pieces that were perfect for tiny post-war
apartments where space was precious.
>>
Finland is at the crossroads of Slavic and Scandinavian
cultures, she says. This has led to an interesting mix of
dark and light, pure shapes and traditional handcrafted
details. Its a mix of melancholia and pure shapes.
Today this tradition of creativity continues. In the
studio of Kim Simmonsson there is a ceramic girl
with an elephant head; in Pekka Paikkaris workshop
reconstituted glass is prepared for an installation
and in the atrium Aimo Katajamkis sinister ape
heads greet visitors.
Arabia continues to support top level Finnish ce-
ramic art by providing studios and materials to art-
ists, says Viipola.
HELSINKI USEFUL WEBSITES
designforum.f (Finnish, English) designmuseum.f (Finnish, English, Swedish)
uusix.f (English, Finnish) www.visithelsinki.f/en (several languages)
25 24
MILAN
breradesigndistrict.it (Italian)
triennale.it (English, Italian)
brera.beniculturali.it (Italian)
www.tourism.milan.it (Italian, English, Chinese)
PARIS
ateliers-artistes-belleville.org (French)
labiennaledebelleville.fr (French)
www.citemodedesign.fr (French)
www.paris-prm.com (French, English)
HELSINKI
designforum.f (Finnish, English)
designmuseum.f (Finnish, English, Swedish)
uusix.f (English, Finnish)
www.visithelsinki.f/en (several languages)
Photos by Ezequiel Scagnetti European Commission
READY
TO BE
AWED?
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
26
A TALE OF
THREE CITIES
FROM BRIDGES THAT CONNECTED COMMUNITIES AND SOARING SPIRES THAT
INSPIRED WORSHIP TO MEDIEVAL CASTLES THAT DEFENDED CITIES, EUROPE
HAS BEEN FORGED BY A UNIQUE HISTORY THAT IN TURN SHAPED THE
CREATION OF ITS CAPITAL CITIES.
Andy Round journeys to Prague (Czech Republic), Lisbon (Portugal) and Vilnius (Lithuania) to explore
how the secrets of a European city can be unlocked by exploring its architecture.
P
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P
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FROM GOTHIC CHURCH SPIRES TO SOVIET-ERA OFFICE BLOCKS, PRAGUE
OFFERS 800 YEARS OF EUROPEAN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE IN ONE CITY.
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
In Prague time travel is possible. Within a few min-
utes it is easy to walk from the crooked alleyways
of 14th century Gothic Europe, through the pastel
arches of the 16th century Renaissance, straight into
the extravagance of the 20th centurys art nouveau.
Prague is like an architectural text book, says Czech
architect Michal Fronek of Studio Olgoy Chorchoy.
Every style is represented here. The Vltava River
gives the city its shape, but it is the diverse architec-
tural styles that give Prague its romantic restlessness.
That restlessness energises the Old Town, or Star
Msto, by combining soaring spires, achingly roman-
tic towers, meandering cobbled streets, blind alleys,
and hidden courtyards into an unforgettable city-
scape.
Walk the streets with someone who knows how
all these architectural elements connect and history
springs into life.
The Estates Theatre opened in 1783 and that was
where Mozart frst staged his 1787 opera Don Gio-
vanni, says guide Eva Vondrusov. The Powder Gate
is a remainder of the fortifcations that surrounded
the town in the 15th century and next door, thats
where my parents used to come and dance at the
weekend.
The venue is the extraordinarily beautiful Municipal
Building. In addition to hosting Evas parents, it was
also the building that saw the proclamation of Czech-
oslovakian independence in 1918 and the frst meet-
ing between the Czech Republics frst president, the
poet, playwright and dissident politician Vclav Havel,
and the Communist regime, when the Republic
gained its independence in 1989.
Considering it has witnessed such momentous
events, the building is beautifully frivolous. Its restau-
rants, Prague Symphony Orchestra Hall, lobby and
basement are an art nouveau confection of tiles,
writhing metals, glittering glass and sensuous art by
Alfons Mucha.
Walk fve minutes from this Prague highlight and
it quickly becomes apparent that no self-respecting
building is complete without a legend.
31 30
GHOSTLY TERROR
With relish, Eva points out the Gold Ring Renais-
sance house where a gold-greedy husband inspired
the ghostly terror of his drowned wife; the 12th
century Ungelt or Customs Duty courtyard of
Tn Cathedral, where a spurned lover decapitated
a young girl and, so legend has it, the sealed attic
window at the Old-New Synagogue where a clay
monster was imprisoned.
Of course, the citys architecture has also witnessed
the ebb and fow of European infuences.
When, for example, Charles IV became Holy Ro-
man Emperor and King of Bohemia in 1346 he
brought German architect Peter Parler to design
Pragues Charles Bridge and St Vitus Cathedral. Par-
ler took inspiration from French Gothic motifs and
made them his own.
When Rudolf II became Holy Roman Emperor in
1576 he immediately moved his court from Vienna
to Prague, bringing with him fresh new ideas from
Denmark, Austria, Spain and Italy.
At the heart of the city is the photogenic Old
Square, overlooked by the Gothic towers of the
Church of Our Lady Before Tn and the worlds
oldest working astronomical clock.
In the 15th century visitors would stand in awe at
its clockwork rotating saints; today they capture
an image on a mobile phone before grabbing an
ice-cold beer at one of the brightly coloured cafs
nearby.
And that colour is signifcant. In recent years Old
Town buildings have enjoyed intense restoration. In
the 1980s it felt like Prague was black, white and
grey, but the buildings then had a wonderful mystic
air and there were no tourists on Charles Bridge,
remembers Prague guide Zuzana Kozlokova. It
seemed very romantic.
Now guide umbrellas, souvenir sellers, and a United
Nations of nationalities illuminate Pragues famous
bridge. Tourists polish the bronze toes of martyred
statue saints, photographers sell atmospheric city
prints and buskers blast out jazz.
33 32
ARCHITECTURAL STYLE GUIDE
> The GOTHIC movement is commonly associated with the 14th century in Prague due to examples such as Charles Bridge, but
the style fourished throughout Europe. A wonderful illustration of classic Gothic motifs is Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.
> Graceful columns, symmetric proportions and elements from ancient Greek and Roman styles characterise RENAISSANCE. Italy
boasts a wonderful collection of classic European Renaissance from St Peters Basilica in the Vatican to the Duomo in Florence.
> If a building is loaded with architectural famboyance it is probably BAROQUE. Mdina Cathedral in Malta and Santiago de Com-
postela in Spain offer exceptional examples.
> Inspired by natural forms, ART NOUVEAU was an extravagant style that swirled its way into the early 20th century. Sumptu-
ous art nouveau homes can be found in Riga in Latvia and Brussels in Belgium.

High above in the Old Bridge Tower is Tomas Majer
a guide gently shepherding visitors around the 1373
Gothic lookout. A favourite piece of Charles Bridge
history? I like the fact that this tower prevented the
Swedish army from invading the Old Town at the
end of the 30 years war.
The battles for the bridge were bloody and although
the tower was seriously damaged during fghting,
the advancing army failed to enter the town.
The bridge connects the Old Town to a district
known as the Lesser Town or Mal Stran. If it looks
like a flm set, that is because it is. Those streets have
starred in numerous movies from Mission: Impos-
sible to James Bonds Casino Royale.
This area offers intact Baroque areas and palaces.
Ive made several flms here such as The Cold Light
of Day with the Dutch director Rudolf Van Den Berg
and Delta Of Venus with the American director Zal-
man King, says movie production designer, Zdenk
Fleming.I particularly like to flm in the Monastery on
Snmovni Street. Practically every wing has a distinct
architectural style.
Above this street is another photogenic landmark,
Prague Castle. At the centre of the fortifcation, the
biggest castle in the world, is St Vituss Cathedral,
the heart and soul of the Czech Republic itself.
TOMBS
In the crypt beneath the 14th century amethyst-
coated walls of the Chapel of St Wenceslas, the cas-
tles director Frantisek Kadlec points out the tombs
of the nations founding fathers, princes and kings.
Then, climbing time-ravaged stairs, he tells the tale
of the famboyant silver tomb of St John who was
sacrifced from Charles Bridge, points out his fa-
vourite stained glass windows and reveals how six
centuries of work seamlessly created one magnif-
cent cathedral.
The cathedral was started in 1344, but was only
completed in 1929 with the help of public dona-
tions, Frantisek says. The work is so magnifcent it
is often impossible tell which sections were built
when. I enjoy watching concerts here. This is a won-
derful place to come at Christmas or Easter.
It is actually a wonderful place to come any time of
the year. From the castles fortifed walls the pano-
rama of the Old Town unfolds like the backdrop
to a fairytale a colourful cast of spires, towers
and bridges brought together for an unforgettable
happy ending.
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SHAPED BY THE SEA, FUNDED BY EXPLORATION, AND DEVASTATED BY
EARTHQUAKE THE STORY OF LISBON IS AS DRAMATIC AS ITS ARCHITECTURE.
CITY OF DISCOVERY
From the leafy fortifcations of Castelo de So Jorge,
Lisbon is breath-taking. The cool blue of the River
Tagus frames the endless terracotta reds and orang-
es that warm the citys rooftops and the urban land-
scape hugs an hourglass topography of voluptuous
valleys and undulating hills like a brightly illuminated
gown.
That view is really extraordinary, says Portuguese ar-
chitect Joo Lus Carriho da Graa. You can see the
dramatic theatrical spaces and the auditoriums of un-
expected urban areas that have grown organically to
ft the landscape. And that clear sharp light refected
from the river and buildings, well, its exceptional.
The river and Lisbons relationship with the sea have
always inspired the citys architecture.
In just nine kilometres of city coastline you can ex-
perience almost 500 years of history from the 16th
century Belm Tower in the west to the 20th cen-
tury architecture of Portugals Expo 1998 in Parque
das Naes in the east, says Lisbons Deputy Mayor,
Manuel Salgado.
BOXY BEAUTY
Nursing an espresso, Manuel is relaxing in a caf of
the ambitiously expansive Cultural Centre in Lisbons
Belm district.
Manuel designed the centres boxy beauty with Ital-
ian Vittorio Gregotti to accommodate the Portu-
guese European Union Presidency in 1992. Manuel
describes it as a monument to modern Portugal.
Lisbon may not have the monuments of Rome, the
parks of London or the boulevards of Paris, he says.
But I tell visitors to walk from the geometric, ordered
Baixo area in the city centre to the chaotic medieval
layouts that wrap around the hills. The streets are
packed with secret courtyards and hidden palaces.
Outside the Cultural Centre, multi-storey cruise
ships glide beneath the suspended elegance of 25th
of April Bridge following the same river fow that de-
livered Portugals 15th and 16th century explorers.
In Belm their legacy of discovery is carved into the
architecture: the Unesco-protected Belm Tower,
whose cannons once guarded the river; the 50-me-
tre-high Monument Of Discoveries that immortalises
Portugals adventurers in stone; the ornate Maritime
Museum and the stunning Mosterio dos Jernimos.
37 36
Inside this monastery, Nuno Figueiras and Emanuel
Romo, founders of www.tura.pt, a company de-
signed to showcase Lisbons architectural history, are
pointing out the stone motifs that celebrate Portu-
gals age of adventure. Carved sea monsters, ropes
and exotic plants writhe across columns, archways
and ceilings.
Later after a lunch of traditional meat and vegeta-
ble stew, they walk the city discussing how different
styles were shipped into Lisbon, refned by the citys
international infuences and then exported around
the world.
The citys famous black and white mosaic pavements,
for example, can be found as far afeld as Copa-
cabana Beach in Rio and adorning the streets of
Mozambiques capital of Maputo.
In Lisbon, architectural history unfolds in minutes
from the gloomy 12th century drama of S Ca-
thedral and the shattered Gothic ribs of Convento
do Carmo to the 19th century Moorish romance
of Rossio Railway Station and the 21st century glow
of Alvaro Sizas metro tunnels.
The city soundtrack is equally impressive. Clanking
trams wheeze up cobbled streets, chattering tour-
ists meander across vibrant mosaic squares, guitarists
fll castle walls with contemporary music, and cherry
liqueur drinkers laugh outside hole-in-the-wall bars.
In the century-old poet and artist hangout of Caf
A Brasileira, Teresa Duarte and Paulo Pais from
Lisbons Urban Planning Department are discussing
how the earthquake of 1755 devastated the city
but created a fresh architectural vision.
MEDIEVAL STREETS
The Baixa area in the centre of Lisbon is unique in
the world because it was built quickly and according
to strict architectural principles, says Paulo. A uni-
form grid pattern replaced the previous organic me-
dieval streets.
Each building had equally proportioned dimensions
and each was built from new earthquake-proof ma-
terials.
The result is an architectural rhythm that is incredibly
harmonious, nods Teresa.
In front of Baixa, 18th century engineers created the
imposing Commerce Square and a century later the
Triumph Arch was added.
ARCHITECTURAL CELEBRATION
The third edition of Lisbons Architecture Triennale is in 2013. Entitled
Close, Closer it will dominate three months from September with lectures,
exhibitions, prizes and public events. In addition to food, sun and sea we
have added another reason to enjoy Lisbon architecture, laughs Triennale
president, Jos Mateus.
39 38
LISBON USEFUL WEBSITES
www.tura.pt
EUROPEAN INSPIRATION
There have been two Portuguese winners of architectures highest prize, the Pritzker,
lvaro Siza in 1992 and Eduardo Souto de Moura in 2011. Both have worked extensively
outside of Portugal. For example Siza has worked in Spain, the Netherlands, Germany and
Italy, says architect Emanuel Romo. Due to this recognition many Portuguese architects
have been invited to teach at European universities and many young architects can easily
fnd positions in European studios.
Resplendent in glorious statues, motifs again cele-
brating the age of discovery, this is architecture load-
ed with authority. A space designed to impress, just
as it had once inspired docking seafarers hundreds
of years ago when the Royal Palace dominated the
square.
Just 10 minutes along the coast by car is another im-
pressive area, Parque das Naes, the site of Portu-
gals 1998 Expo that was held to celebrate the 500th
anniversary of Vasco de Gama, the explorer whose
discovery of a sea route to India revolutionised Eu-
ropean trade.
Today the riverbank pavilions remain, converted into
stores, restaurants, bars and public buildings.The giant
Expo Oceanarium continues to attract thousands of
visitors, but for Architect Emanuel Romo, the co-
founder of www.tura.pt, the main reason to visit is
the contemporary architecture.
The Expo generated great energy at the time and
attracted the worlds best architects, he says, driving
past spitting volcano-shaped fountains.
For instance the station over there was designed by
Spains Santiago Calatrava and the Portuguese Pa-
vilion was created by Portugals lvaro Siza, he says.
You can see that the giant suspended canopy is made
from tonnes of concrete but looks as light as air.
It also foats like the river. In Lisbon the river has
always been the gateway to a wider world for the
Portuguese.
41 40
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In the Chapel of the Gate of Dawn in the Lithuani-
an capital of Vilnius, the silver offerings nailed next
to the miraculous icon of the Madonna speak of
centuries of devoted pilgrimage.
In the artistic city district of Uupis, a Constitution
plaque underlines the areas eccentric character
by promising A dog has the right to be a dog and
People have the right to be unhappy.
In the dusty basement of the capitals former KGB
headquarters, bullet holes speak volumes.
To stroll Vilnius barely takes a few hours, but you
need more time to read the history that is written
on every wall.
Take Bernadine Church, for instance. Here history
stacks up like the devoted bones that once flled
its dry crypts and the layers of paint that hid its
extraordinary cloister frescos.
During the late 20th century, the churchs sacred
interior was converted into a Soviet warehouse,
but the power of all those historic layers remained
undiminished.
I came for mass for the frst time in 2002 and
there was only a wooden altar, says guide Sandra
Krunait. But there were a lot of people here and
it felt incredibly powerful. Incredibly special.
MAGICAL
Peering from the churchs now-restored loft the
view of the strikingly diverse range of towers, spires
and cupolas that punctuate Vilnius Old Town sky-
line and overshadow its crooked, cramped and
confused streets is beyond special. Its magical. No
wonder it is a Unesco World Heritage site (see
box-out).
VILNIUS IS A SMALL CITY WITH A BIG HISTORY. AND THAT HISTORY IS
AT ITS MOST ELOQUENT IN THE OLD TOWN.
CAPITAL ATTRACTION
43 42
Explore the medieval streets of the Old Town and
the vibrant architectural legacy of the European
religions that made Vilnius their home quickly be-
comes apparent.
In the 14th century, while the Grand Dukes of
Lithuania were celebrating pagan gods up in Vilnius
castle, Orthodox believers and Catholic Germans
were building their houses of worship down below,
says Marija Drmait, Secretary-General of Un-
escos Lithuanian National Commission.
In Vilnius there are 21 monasteries and 20 Catholic
churches, four Orthodox, one Lutheran, one Evan-
gelical and Jewish houses of worship that formed
the layout of the town.
And every house of worship has a story to tell.
NAPOLEON
When Napoleon saw the rare brick Gothic of
St Annes Church, he said he wanted to take it back
to Paris in the palm of his hand, laughs Vilnius mayor
Artras Zuokas. It still makes me smile every time
I think he didnt get his way.

Im fond of Vilnius Cathedral even though it doesnt
appeal to me aesthetically, says Gediminas Tech-
nical Universitys architecture professor, Jrat
Jureviien. I appreciate the way it encapsulates
important historic events.
For instance, this is the site of the nations baptism,
which inspired faith across the Grand Duchy of
Lithuania and extended from the Black Sea to the
Baltic Sea.
From the top to bottom there is history. Installed
above are the new statues that replaced those dur-
ing the 20th century and buried below are ancient
pagan sites.
The cathedral is also the fnal resting place for some
of the countrys most important historical fgures
such as Alexander Lithuanias Grand Duke (and later
also King of Poland) who died in 1506 and Vytautas
the Great whose 1410 defeat of the Teutonic Knights
at Grnwald ensured he became a national hero.
Historical strata stack up everywhere in Vilnius. Be-
neath an Amber Museum in the Old Town, guide
Egl Mickeviien refects on the excavations of
16th century ceramic kilns.
You can see how the layers of the city grew above
them, she says, pointing at the rocky walls. About
a metre deep for every hundred years.
NORTHERN JERUSALEM
Some centuries-old layers still feel fresh. In the mid-
dle of the Old Town, Egl stops to describe how
the postcard-pretty streets around her were once
populated by hundreds of thousands of Jews and
the area was celebrated as a Northern Jerusalem
until the dark days of 1939.
Nearby is Vilnius Old Town Renewal Agency, an
organisation dedicated to preserving the capitals
architectural legacy. When the agencys director
Jrat Raugalien walks the city, stories unfold at
every corner.
She reveals how the Gothic, Baroque and Renais-
sance buildings of the 500-year-old university be-
came an important centre of learning in Central
and Eastern Europe.
She discusses how Teutonic Knights gave Germans
Street its name and how an Italian Duchess brought
both pasta and a new Renaissance style to the city.
Then, of course, there is Vilnius famous Baroque.
It was introduced as a result of the great fres of
the 18th century, Jrat says. Austrian architect
45 44
EUROPEAN INFLUENCE
For a small city, Vilnius had a big architectural infuence. It was the most northern Baroque city
of Europe and thanks to the late 18th century style of Johan Glaubitz infuenced the then territory
of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Many signifcant churches in Belarus and Latvia echo this style.
UNESCO STATUS
The historic centre of Vilnius was inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List in 1994,
says Marija Drmait, Secretary-General of Unescos Lithuanian National Commission.
Vilnius was presented to the world as the political and cultural centre of the Grand
Duchy of Lithuania of the 13th to 18th century, and the most signifcant city of Gothic,
Renaissance and Baroque style in Eastern Europe where cultures of the East and West
meet. Vilnius, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, formed on the border of
two civilisations Byzantine Eastern and Latin Western ones.
Johann Glaubitz arrived as an answer to the citys
prayers (see box-out). He renovated the churches
and his style quickly became infuential across the
continent.
But it is the capitals sweeping panoramas that cast
a spell over this Vilnius-born director. I love the
views from the Hill Of The Three Crosses, but I also
spent the frst fve years of my life close to the tall-
est building in Vilnius, the 68-metre-tall St Johns bell
tower. Its still inspiring.
Another Old Town view worth savouring is from
the top of the New Town 21st century municipal
building that houses Vilnius Planning Department
and its Director, Artras Blotnys.
If you were an architecture student you could
come here and study every era from early Gothic
to 20th century architecture, says Artras, survey-
ing the forest-fringed city beneath him. That in itself
makes the city special, but the atmosphere on the
streets, well, that is completely unique.
47 46
PRAGUE
www.praguewelcome.cz
LISBON
www.visitlisboa.com
VILNIUS
www.vilnius-tourism.lt
Photos by Ezequiel Scagnetti European Commission
READY
TO NEW
HORIZONS?
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
48
COAST TO COAST
FROM THE COOL WINDS OF THE ATLANTIC TO THE WARM WATERS OF THE
MEDITERRANEAN, EUROPES COASTLINE DEFINES THE CONTINENT IN EVERY
WAY. IT HAS CREATED COMMUNITIES, INSPIRED EXPLORATION, DRIVEN TRADE
AND ATTRACTED TOURISM, WHILE REMAINING A CONSTANT SOURCE OF
NATURAL WONDER.
Andy Round explores the stories from four diverse coastlines in Greece, Germany, Ireland and Croatia
and Christian Andersson photographs.
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THE INSPIRATIONAL COASTAL LANDSCAPE OF THE PELION PENINSULA
IS HEAVEN ON EARTH FOR DEVOTED SUN WORSHIPPERS.
GODS OWN COUNTRY
So legend has it, the Greek gods used to take their
summer holidays on the peninsula of Pelion. With
the warm Pagasetic Gulf on one side and the open
Aegean Sea on the other, it was the perfect place
for Zeus, Apollo, Poseidon and their omnipotent
friends to relax after a tough year of godly duties.
What did the gods do when they came on holiday?
Good question. Unwind, relax, enjoy the scenery,
the food and drink, laughs Georgios Papamakarios,
of Volos Municipality Tourism Sector. Same as today
I suppose.
Indeed. The same earthly delights that attracted the
gods continue to draw the devoted today. Except in
the 21st century they come on direct fights or long
car drives from Athens and stretch out their towels
to worship the sun.
Internationally, the peninsula that shapes Pelion and its
main centre of Volos may be lesser known than, say,
the Costa Brava in Spain or the South of France, but
it offers a refreshingly different European experience.
Its like a Greek island on the mainland, says Papama-
karios. On the Aegean side wonderful verdant for-
ests meet white beaches and azure waters, while on
the Gulf side, the waters are warm, the mountain
slopes are flled with fruit trees and every port vil-
lage has a beautiful beach. Its great for families with
children.
Here its possible to see the whole of Greece in one
place, says Volos mayor Panos Skotiniotis. There is
the beauty of the mountains, the magic of the beach-
es, authentic village life and typical cuisine. Its popu-
lar in all four seasons, you can hike in autumn and
spring, enjoy the beach in summer and in winter, ski
in mountains in the morning and then come down to
relax by the coast in the afternoon.
INVITING WATERS
AND SEDUCTIVE SANDS
Leisurely exploration of the peninsulas coastal
roads offers the ideal opportunity to photograph
pretty railway stations and cloud-covered moun-
tains or stock up on fresh olive bread, cheese pie
and share the Greek passion for coffee, but always
there is the siren call of inviting waters and seduc-
tive sands.
This is one of the best beaches here, says Volos
designer Dimitris Mitrolios, gesturing over to the in-
viting sands of Afssos village, just visible through the
olive trees. Volos has been awarded nine blue fags
for the high standard of its beach cleanliness.
This pristine coast threads its way through every
aspect of Pelion life. Fishermen moor boats at the
harbour to sell wriggling early morning catches;
would-be Olympic champions practise their rowing
on smooth harbour waters; enormous red ferries
load passengers for nearby islands, and along Volos
promenade past the moored super yachts, teenag-
ers practise bicycle tricks, families stroll with their
dogs and couples saunter arm in arm.
From the port cranes unloading cargo to the elegant
former tobacco export building, now part of Volos
University, the legacy of the landscape is of a fruitful
relationship with the sea. It has been like this forever.
Jason and his Argonauts set sail to fnd the Golden
Fleece from Volos, says Georgia Tampaki as she strolls
53 52
around a full-scale replica of the most famous ship
in mythology, the Argo. This is 30 metres long, four
wide and two deep; with its sail, it is eight metres
high.
The replica was built without the use of nails or
bolts, using fve types of wood. When it was fnally
sea tested with 50 oarsmen, it was found to be
comfortably capable of achieving 700 nautical miles
in two months.
Greeks in Volos have been exploring the sea for
millennia. In the neoclassical rooms of the Athanas-
sakeion Archaeological Museum, Director of Antiq-
uities, Argyroula Doulgezi-Intzesiloglou, points out
the clay model of a small boat recovered from the
surrounding hillside. It dates back to between 6 000
and 5 000 BC.
The museum was founded by Alexis Athanassakis in
1909 to house the worlds biggest collection of Hel-
lenistic painted gravestones in the world, she says,
strolling past Neolithic fgurines, gold jewellery and
The waters are warm, the
mountain slopes are flled
with fruit trees and every
port village has a beautiful
beach. Its great for families
with children.
entombed skeletons to reveal the painted images of
the wealthy deceased that look as vivid today as they
must have done 25 centuries ago.
THE MOUNTAIN COOL
Leave Volos and drive up the peninsulas winding
roads to the mountain range and you enter a world
that was once populated by illusive half man-half
horse centaurs. Sadly, the only sightings today are
stone statues or architectural motifs in beautiful vil-
lages such as Makrinitsa, also known as the balcony
of Mount Pelion.
German-born Alexandra Groth greets everyone in
the 900-year-old village (population 300) by name
and in perfect Greek from the priest enjoying an
afternoon stroll to a vivacious woman cooking lamb
on spitting hot coals. Over a mind-altering glass of
grappa-like tsipouro, she explains why she moved
to Makrinitsa six years ago.
I love the people here, she smiles. They are warm,
kind and there is an energy that brings people back
again and again. In the summer its wonderful to es-
cape the heat of the coast and just enjoy the moun-
tain cool and one of the best views in the world.
Looking down towards the coast from this balcony
of Mount Pelion it is hard to disagree.The gods were
obviously on to something here.
55 54
HIT OR MYTH?
The fortifed stone circles of the Neolithic village of Dimini are just a few kilometres from Volos
and date back to 6 000 BC. At the time this vibrant village was just minutes from the coastline and
there has been speculation that it could be Iolkos, the ancient home of Jason the Argonaut. Today
it is a haunting reminder of an astonishingly rich chapter in Greeces history.
RECIPES FOR SUCCESS
In and around Volos, there are said to be 365 traditional Greek restaurants or
tsipouradika one for every day of the year. Specialities of each house in the
form of meze plates are served like Spanish tapas with every round of tsipouro.
A big port favourite is Iolkos where the clientele is as lively as the wriggling sea-
food. An hour away in the mountain village of Portaria, Kritsa attracts clientele
from as far away as Athens. Traditional early 20th century recipes using the
endless variety of herbs found on the mountain slopes are the order of the day
here as are the spicy sausages stuffed with peppers or spetzofai. My favourite
meal? Rice and minced beef wrapped in cabbage with my secret sauce, smiles
owner Helene Karaiskou.
GREECE USEFUL WEBSITES
www.volosinfo.gr/en www.visitgreece.gr
57 56
THE STUNNING CITY OF DUBROVNIK HAS BEEN SHAPED
BY A RICH COASTAL HISTORY.
JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC
Taking the cable car 778 metres to the top of Mount
Sr is the fastest way to appreciate why the Croatian
city of Dubrovnik is one of Europes most precious
coastal gems. Set in sparkling Adriatic waters and
gift-wrapped in two kilometres of medieval wall, this
photogenic jumble of terracotta roofs has got to be
one of the most recognisable cities in the world.
Today those medieval walls echo with the laughter
of tourists, the chink of cool ice in hot summer bars,
the sizzle of grilling fsh and the contented creak of
expensive marina yachts, but this beautiful city has
always been a centre of attraction, from would-be
invaders to international traders.
Dubrovnik has been a coastal link between east and
west since 600 AD, says Divo Bai curator of the
citys Maritime Museum. By the 16th century it was
a successful rival to Venice with 200 merchant ships
connecting to every signifcant port in the Mediter-
ranean and as far as Britain, Germany and Belgium.
At the heart of this success were revolutionary con-
cepts. Even in 1272 there were established maritime
regulations in the city, says Bai. One of the worlds
frst quarantine centres was opened here in 1377
and in 1418 slavery was abolished. By the 16th cen-
tury there was even a system of maritime insurance.
AN INDEPENDENT REPUBLIC
Dubrovnik, or Ragusa as it was then known, became
an independent Republic in the 14th century and
like any other ambitious trade-rich city in Europe,
it set about constructing beautiful buildings such as
Sponza Palace.
Today the palace houses the priceless Dubrovnik
archives, a guide tells a group of gathered tourists.
But in the 16th century this courtyard was a centre
for international trade and Dubrovnik was regarded
as a highly trustworthy trading partner. You see that
inscription there? In Latin it reads: Our weights do
not permit cheating or being cheated.
Coordinating the citys success was the Rector of
Dubrovnik who occupied another Gothic-Renais-
sance palace close by. In the past this place was
a thriving centre of offcial business, now the glory
of the citys trading legacy is spelled out in museum
exhibits of sedan chairs, robes, wigs, portraits, clocks
and summer classical music concerts.
Taking an interest in recent history is Adriana
Dumandi.My father left Croatia after World War II,
she says. He went to Argentina and started driving
a truck. A few years later he had his own transporta-
tion business. I have brought my children here this
year to experience their Croatian roots.
INTERNATIONAL INFLUENCE
Evidence of international infuences is everywhere.
Opposite Sponza Palace stands a 15th century stat-
ue of Roland, one of Emperor Charlemagnes most
loyal knights.
Before Croatias European Union accession, this
was the last statue of Roland to be outside the EU,
they appear throughout Europe from Latvia and
Germany to France, says Adriana Kremenja-Danii,
President of Europe House Dubrovnik, a non-proft
organisation set up to help Croatians beneft from
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EU membership.Whatever differences each country
may have, Rolands presence in so many places is just
one of the many threads that have linked different
parts of Europe for centuries.
Outside Kremenja-Daniis offce, strolling along
the polished promenade of the main thorough-
fare known as the Stradun are members of church
groups from Spain and France on their way to ser-
vices at Holy Saviour Church.
RELIGION AND THE CITY
Like the sea, religion has shaped the city. After being
rescued from a shipwreck on the nearby island of
Lokrum (see separate story), a grateful Richard the
Lionheart founded the citys cathedral in the 12th
century. Also, when St Blaise warned of a planned
Venetian sea attack of 971 AD, his loyalty and faith
were rewarded with the construction of a beautiful
church named in his honour.
Twenty minutes away at the entrance to city by Pile
Gate, stands the citys famous 14th century Fran-
ciscan monastery. By the fruit trees of the monas-
terys pretty courtyard, Vjekoslav Vierda points out
his favourite frescoes. Look at those, he smiles. Only
200 years young.
Vierdas warm personality served him well in his for-
mer life as the director of Dubrovniks restoration
after the devastation caused by the Croatian War of
Independence that started in 1991. During the eight-
month siege of Dubrovnik hundreds lost their lives
and heavy shelling devastated 68 per cent of the city.
The restoration cost USD 73 million, more than
5.5 million tiles alone were needed to repair roof
damage and eight palaces had to be entirely built
from scratch, says Vierda.
For most of the tourists exploring the sun-drenched
backstreets off the Stradun in search of the per-
fect shady bar, the bright bricks and fresh tiles of
Dubrovniks restoration mostly go unnoticed, but
memories of this Adriatic jewel are likely to sparkle
long after they leave.
WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED
Dubrovniks Franciscan Monastery houses one of the oldest pharmacies in the
world founded in 1317. A modern chemist still serves locals today. We have
everything you need from cough mixture to aspirin, but we also sell items
like bees wax, almond face oil or rose cream that are based on Franciscan
techniques hundreds of years old, says pharmacist Kate Ani.
The restoration cost USD 73 million, more than 5.5 million tiles
alone were needed to repair roof damage and eight palaces
had to be entirely built from scratch
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CROATIA USEFUL WEBSITES
www.tzdubrovnik.hr
NO WORRIES ATOLL
Lokrum Island is just a 10-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik, but it may as well be in
a different world. Populated by a ruined French fort, a pristine lake and endless exotic
plants with origins dating back to the founding of its Benedictine abbey in 1023, Lokrum
is a treasure island of charm. It is also a favourite anchoring port for celebrity superyachts
belonging to Paul Getty, Bill Gates, Caroline of Monaco and Roman Abramovich.
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RGEN ON THE BALTIC COAST OF GERMANY
IS ONE OF EUROPES BEST-KEPT SECRETS.
TREASURED ISLAND
Mathias Schilling commutes to work by boat. It is
one of the benefts of owning your own private
island. In just three speedboat minutes he can cross
the channel that separates his island from Rgen
where his restaurant is based.
Myself, my wife Nicolle and my two-year-old son
Oskar are the only inhabitants on he with the
exception of 120 head of cattle, grins Schilling.
What is it like to own an island? Hard work. We
have a farm, we breed cattle, we have a restaurant
and we work 24/7.
he has been in Schillings family since 1350. In
2007, at the age of 25 Mathias took over ownership
and by 2011 he and his wife had opened Schillings
Gasthof, a restaurant that naturally enjoys a strong
reputation for fresh island beef.
It is a journey that has seen them featured in Ger-
man television reality shows and made them stars
of gourmet magazines. We have sunk every euro
we have into the farm and restaurant. We could
probably sell the island and retire. But why would
we do that? This is our life.
UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
The Schillings restaurant is just one of a collection of
unique experiences visitors can enjoy while travelling
along the 574-kilometre coast of Rgen. From natu-
ral wonders such as chalk cliffs, endless hiking trails
and ancient beech forests to man-made attractions
including 18th century theatres, seaside resorts and
an abandoned Nazi holiday camp, this 900 km island
on the Baltic Sea is extraordinarily diverse.
Yes, a Nazi holiday camp.
The fve colossal six-storey concrete buildings of
Prora stretch almost fve kilometres along pristine
Rgen beach. The project was part of Hitlers
Strength Through Joy programme. It was designed to
accommodate 20 000 people but building stopped
at the outbreak of the war, says island tourism ex-
ecutive Gudrun Krger. Today its empty, except for
a hostel and museum; it has become a bizarre tourist
attraction.There are always tour coaches visiting.
It is easy to see why Hitler wanted his camp here.
Rgens 85 kilometres of beaches have been at-
tracting visitors since tourism was invented. Along
the manicured promenades of elegant resorts such
as Sellin and Binz, the elaborate holiday homes of
wealthy sun-seekers date back well into the 19th
century.
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These gentrifed villas, mansions and hotels are an un-
usual fusion of just about every architectural style you
can imagine from French and Italian Renaissance to
Gothic Art Nouveau. Loaded with ornate balconies,
towers, gazebos and fligree fourishes, this confection
of styles, all freshly painted white, gives the impression
of being on an intriguing flm set. But make no mistake!
These resorts have the same air of exclusivity that in-
fuses Biarritz in France, San Sebastian in Spain or any-
where on Italys Amalf coast.
Still, there are endless contrasts to Binz or Sellin on
Rgen. From the port terminal of Mukran giant fer-
ries make their way to Sweden, Denmark, Lithuania
or Russia. At Sassnitz, colourfully dressed tourists jos-
tle for space in cake shops and queue up at fshing
boats in the harbour for fresh herring snacks.
Myself, my wife Nicolle
and my two-year-old
son Oskar are the only
inhabitants on he
with the exception
of 120 head of cattle
ON THE RIGHT TRACK
One of Rgens most popular tourist attractions is the narrow gauge steam train Racing Roland.
Travelling at a stately 30kmph, this century-old locomotive connects 10 stations between Putbus
and Ghren.
67 66
A PRIVATE RETREAT
At the end of the day, the sunset over the tiny
tranquil island of Vilm from the yacht harbour of
Lauterbach is stunning. It is easy to see why this par-
ticular island became such a popular private retreat
for heads of state during the time of the German
Democratic Republic.
The nature here is unique and was very popular
with 19th century romantic painters such Casper
David Friedrich, says Susann Flade of Rgens Jas-
mund National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
These are the only chalk cliffs in Germany and the
beech forest surrounding us is one of the last of
its kind. Once these resilient trees stretched across
Europe all the way to the Carpathian Mountains in
Romania.
Only authorised cars are permitted into the pro-
tected forest and like much of Rgens coastline, the
park is perfect for hiking, biking and getting up close
and personal with nature.
Follow the landscape from the fossil-flled cliffs of
Jasmund and the communities becomes increasingly
rural. In the district of Putgarten thatched cottages
nestle in sheltered fshing coves such as Vitt and
on the most northern point, Cap Arcona, are two
lighthouses: a classic tubular tower built in 1902 and
the earlier model it replaced, a squat brick building
designed by Karl-Friedrich Schinkel in 1827.
Its the oldest lighthouse on the Baltic coast, says
Ernst Heinemann, enjoying the fresh air of the
19-metre-high viewing platform. Its now a popu-
lar venue for weddings. Down there you can see
plaques couples have left with their notes of devo-
tion and love.
Heinemann gazes at the horizon. He has served
the district as mayor for 23 years and grew up on
Rgen. So, whats his favourite place on the island?
I love it right here, he smiles. Over there are the re-
mains of an old Slavic cult site from the 9th century
which was used to pay homage to the gods. Today
I think it is still a mystically beautiful place.
GERMANY USEFUL WEBSITES
www.ruegen.de www.germany.travel/en/index.html
THEATRE OF DREAMS
We have about 300 performances a year here, says Peter Gestwa, director of Rgens
famous Putbus Theatre. It was opened in 1821, but had to be restored in the 1990s. Look up,
the wooden cupola is magnifcent. The theatre was built as a focal point of Putbus, a town
German Prince Wilhelm Malte founded as his main residence in 1810. Today the building
is one of the highlights of a Northern European theatre tour that features famous buildings
in Germany, Denmark, Norway and Sweden.
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THE RING OF KERRY IS A 178-KILOMETRE IRISH COASTAL ROAD THAT
SCOOTS PAST SANDY BEACHES, CUTS THROUGH PASTEL-COLOURED
VILLAGES AND TEETERS ON THE EDGE OF SPRAY-SLASHED ATLANTIC CLIFFS.
IT IS A EUROPEAN COASTAL EPIC.
LORDS OF THE RING
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Far, far away in the wild west of Ireland is a pri-
meval forest. Ferns, plants and moss-covered trees
that can trace their ancestry back to Jurassic times
fourish in the warm Gulf Stream that caresses the
Kerry coastline.
Oh, and there are dinosaurs too.
Im sorry theyre only wooden models, laughs Billy
Alexander, the owner of Kells Bay Gardens. But the
forest is real. The plant species are from all over the
world. They like the balmy weather here and thrive.
The south-west peninsula of Iveragh is famous for
nature that is jaw-droppingly beautiful, but you
dont expect to see an eight-metre giant palm tree
from Chile. What can I say? Im passionate about
plants and collect from all over the world, smiles
Alexander. That palm is the biggest in Ireland.
Primeval forests and palm trees? In Ireland? Indeed.
BREATHTAKING NATURE
AND FLOWING STORIES
Along the Ring of Kerry, a 178-kilometre circular
road that grips the Atlantic coastline from Kenmare
in the south to Killarney in the north, the nature takes
your breath away and the stories fow like Guinness.
The three sharp rocky islands off the far west coast
are known as the Skelligs and were populated by
monks as far back as 600 AD, says John OSullivan
of the Skellig Experience Museum. In the 21st cen-
tury its hard to imagine why anyone wanted to en-
dure such hardship; no food, water, heating, terrible
weather and attacks from Vikings.
Living in stone igloos accessed from the sea by slip-
pery stone steps, the monks survived on birds, fsh,
rainwater and their faith. It would take 20 hours
just to row the 12 kilometres from the mainland,
says OSullivan. At the time, it was the end of the
known world. It was miracle they were able to sur-
vive there.
The Skellig Experience is based on Valencia, an
11-kilometre-long Irish island that is accessed by
bridge from the fshing village of Portmagee (where
the Irish stew is to die for at The Moorings pub) or
by ferry from Reenard Point.
Valencia was the east base for the frst transatlan-
tic telegraph cable to Newfoundland in 1866, our
quarry provided slate for the UK Houses of Par-
liament and it is also where early tetrapod tracks
were discovered, says tourism director Bridget
OShea. Tetrapods were the frst of our ancestors
to drag themselves from the sea on to land. The
fossilised tracks here date back 385 million years.
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HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
The Ring of Kerry resonates with historical signif-
cance. Along the south stretch of the road, highlights
include the four-metre thick walls of Staigue Fort, a gi-
ant defensive stone ring that dates back 2 500 years,
and Derrynane House, the former home of Daniel
OConnell, the 19th century politician who achieved
Catholic Emancipation and whose activism paved the
way for Irish independence from Britain.
Its a beautiful home with a great location right by
the water, says hotel owner and local history en-
thusiast Fergus Foley. You could say it was built with
the help of European investment. OConnells family
grew rich from smuggling brandy and whiskey from
France and Spain in the 18th century.
In Cahersiveen, yet another postcard-pretty town,
a striking white castle dominates the skyline. This
is the former Barracks of the Royal Irish Constabu-
lary built to intimidate the locals, smiles guide
Charlie Smith. Its designed in a distinctively Schloss
German castle style and the legend goes that plans
got mixed up in England and this should have been
a British barracks in India.
Barracks, castles, forts and ruins are integral to
Kerrys landscape, but sometimes just the stories
remain. Gerard Burke, a trekking centre owner at
Rossbeigh Beach, takes a break from leading riders
across the sands and points to the misty peak of
a nearby mountain.
There used to be homes on the top of that moun-
tain, he says. But in the 1880s this area was run by
Lord Headley Wynne. He made people pay huge
taxes and if they couldnt, they were evicted and
their homes destroyed. There are just a few stones
there now.
Today all that is left of Wynns estate is a charred
castle shell populated by ravens. When the despotic
Lord left for London, the locals made it diffcult for
him to return by burning his Irish home.
SOUND OF MUSIC
In the town of Killarney, a traditional starting point for the Ring of Kerry, every other
building seems to be a pub and every other pub seems to feature live music. From traditional
jigs to U2 covers, the favour is proudly Irish and the sing-a-longs irresistible.
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RURAL LIFE
Life in rural Ireland during the 19th century was
harsh. After securing his giant Irish wolfhounds in
a huge paddock, Mossie Pierce, who works at the
Bog Village Museum, walks through a perfect 1850s
recreation of an Irish rural community pointing out
his favourite cottages.
Here there would be up to 15 children so thats
why there are so many beds in this house, he says.
Over there the house is smaller and poorer and
the family would share the house with livestock to
keep warm.
Pierce pauses to feed the village goat and smiles.
You should come to the Puck Fair in Killorglin down
the road. Its held every August and is a great party.
They place a crown on a wild goat and parade him
in the square like a king.
Its said that a stray wild goat running through the
town warned people that the English leader Oliver
Cromwell was on his way 400 years ago, so they
have been honouring them ever since.
Sure enough, taking pride of place by the bridge to
Killorglin, is bronze statue of a goat wearing a crown.
He looks very pleased with himself.
CELEBRITY KERRY
The Ring of Kerry was a favourite holiday destination for two very different men named
Charles. Former French President Charles de Gaulle visited the town of Sneem for a quiet
holiday in 1969 (there is even a plaque in the square to mark the occasion), while comedian
Charlie Chaplin preferred nearby Waterville for his summer break. The Chaplin family
visited the town regularly from 1961.
IRELAND USEFUL WEBSITES
www.ireland.com
Barracks, castles, forts and ruins are integral to Kerrys
landscape, but sometimes just the stories remain.
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GREECE
www.volosinfo.gr/en
www.visitgreece.gr
CROATIA
www.tzdubrovnik.hr
GERMANY
www.ruegen.de
www.germany.travel/en/index.html
IRELAND
www.ireland.com
Photos by Christian Andersson European Commission
READY
TO BE
AMAZED?
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
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BY ROYAL
APPOINTMENT
THE SOVEREIGN POWER OF EUROPES ROYAL FAM ILIES MAY BE A THING OF THE
PAST, BUT IN THE 21ST CENTURY, MODERN ROYALS CONTINUE TO CAST A SPELL
OVER TRAVELLERS.
Journalist Andy Round and photographer Christian Andersson profle the impact of three very different
monarchies in Denmark, Spain and the United Kingdom, and reveal the magical royal secrets
every visitor should know.
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DENMARK IS HOME TO ONE OF THE MOST MODERN ROYAL FAMILIES
IN EUROPE. FOLLOWING IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS OFFERS AN ENTERTAINING
WAY TO ENJOY THE LAID-BACK CITY OF COPENHAGEN.
GREAT DANES
In the past being a Danish monarch was simple.
You would fght a couple of wars, build impressive
buildings, marry the children off to other European
rulers and then polish your historical legacy before
that fnal appointment with a lavish state tomb.
Not anymore.
These days, contemporary Danish royals are inf-
nitely more sophisticated. Queen Margrethe II, 74,
speaks fve European languages, creates costumes
for the National Ballet, is an accomplished artist and
illustrated the Danish version of Lord of the Rings
(with the blessing of J. R. R. Tolkien). She does not
wear a crown, sit on a throne or invade other coun-
tries. At home she speaks French with her Parisian
husband Henri.
Her son, Crown Prince Frederik, 44, is a marathon-
running father-of-four who cycles his children to
school, was a member of Denmarks elite army
scuba force and once spent months exploring the
wintery north of Greenland. By dog sledge.
The Danish Royal Family is hugely modern, says
Henrik Thierlein of Wonderful Copenhagen, the citys
tourism organisation. They effortlessly combine con-
temporary 21st century life with the gravitas of being
the offcial royal family.
The Danish Royal Family is the oldest in the world and
can trace its linage back to Gorm the Old in 900 AD.
HISTORICAL ROYAL LEGACY
Explore the streets of Copenhagen and that histori-
cal royal legacy comes alive whether you are follow-
ing in the footsteps of history or the jogging shoes
of the Crown Prince.
A good place to start a royal tour is Christiansborg
Palace where the affectionately nicknamed Queen
Daisy hosts state functions. The What is the Queen
like? She instantly commands respect, says palace rep-
resentative Jan Blichert-Hansen, showing the vast hall
where Margrethe II holds private audiences with her
subjects every two weeks.She is genuinely magisterial.
You always have a sense of great intellect.
Paintings in the palace reveal how Danish royals are
an intrinsic part of Europes bigger royal picture.
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Margrethes grandfather Christian IX was known as
the father-in-law of Europe, says guide Anita Vystavel.
One son became George I of Greece while his oth-
er children married into the royal families of Britain,
Norway and Russia.
Today international marriage alliances are slightly
different. In 2000 Crown Prince Frederik met Mary
Donaldson, a stylish public relations executive from
Tasmania in a bar during the Sydney Olympics.
Four years later they were married in Copenhagen
Cathedral.There were 1 700 guests here and it must
have been diffcult for everyone to see, smiles cathe-
dral volunteer Rosita Poulsen.But I was impressed by
the humility of the fower display. For a state wedding
it was beautiful but not ostentatious.
A STYLE ICON
In addition to taking up social causes, particularly
measures to combat bullying at school, Crown Prin-
cess Mary has now become a style icon and an am-
bassador for Danish designers from Uffe Frank, who
created her wedding dress, to Malene Birger, who con-
tributes much of her state wardrobe.
The Danish Royal Family
is hugely modern, says
Henrik Thierlein of Wonderful
Copenhagen, the citys
tourism organisation.
They effortlessly combine
contemporary 21st century
life with the gravitas of being
the offcial royal family.
Minutes from Birgers airy Copenhagen fagship store,
is the treasure trove of Shamballa Jewels founded by
Danish brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup. After
Americas most successful hip-hop star Jay-Z com-
missioned a black diamond Shamballa bracelet from
Mads in 2001, the companys international profle
went stratospheric.
Today Karl Lagerfeld, Gwyneth Paltrow and Giorgio
Armani are all Shamballa fans. I cant comment on
our clients, but I can say that in every case we cre-
ate something that is uniquely personal to them,
says the companys June Basar. In 2008, during one
of the frst media interviews with the Crown Prince
and his wife, Crown Princess Mary was pictured
wearing a Shamballa Jewels bracelet featuring a rare
Argyle pink diamond.
ON THE TOURIST TRAIL
Back on the tourist trail, on board a glass-covered
canal barge, German guide Jana Hoffmeister is
crackling out royal highlights over the microphone.
That black granite faade is the Royal Library. Over
there is the Royal Playhouse which played host
to Hamlet, Denmarks most famous prince on its
opening night and there is the royal berth, sadly the
royal yacht seems to be away today.
Later, during a break while tourists rush ashore to
photograph Copenhagens famous Little Mermaid
statue, Hoffmeister discusses her favourite royal build-
ing. I love the elaborate architecture of the Marble
Church behind Amalienborg Palace, she says. It was
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ROYALTY ON A PLATE
Smods Candies for sweets, Illums Bolighus for interior accessories, Georg Jensen silver and Royal
Copen hagen porcelain are all purveyors to the Royal Danish Court with outlets in the city that are
fascinating to visit. Got EUR16 000 to spare? How about a tureen from Royal Copenhagen featuring the
companys famous Flora Danica design. Too expensive? Enjoy a glass of wine produced on the French
estate of Prince Consort Henrik and smushi at the Michelin Guide-recommended Royal Caf next door.
Smushi is the cafs innovative take on Denmarks open sandwich tradition, prepared like sushi.
JEWELS
OF COPENHAGEN:
Today the tall towers and red stone of
Rosenborg Castle house the Royal Collec-
tions and Crown Jewels. But when Caroline
Mathilde was crowned Queen in 1766, she
would invite fairy-tale legend writer Hans
Christian Anderson over to tell the court
stories (her portrait by Jens Juel hangs in
the castle). Unfortunately, as her husband
Christian VII became increasingly mentally
ill, she began an affair with his doctor.
When the adultery was discovered the
doctor was executed and Caroline Mathilde
was banished to die in exile.
DENMARK USEFUL WEBSITES
www.wonderfulcopenhagen.dk
started by King Frederik V in 1749 but he ran out of
money half way through the construction and left. It
was only fnished with private fnance 150 years later.
Hoffmeisters recommendation is a good excuse to
visit Amalienborg Palace. On the cobbled square
outside the elegant winter residences of the Crown
Prince and Queen, thousands of tourists have gath-
ered for the changing of the guard.
My husband Eamon and I came here for our 30th
anniversary. Watching the changing of the guard is
one of the must-see attractions in Copenhagen,
says Eithne Kavanagh from Ireland. Its a novelty for
us because we dont have royal families in Ireland
and there are not too many left in Europe.
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SUCCESSIVE SPANISH MONARCHIES HAVE ALWAYS MADE THEIR MARK ON
MADRID. FROM THE CENTURIES OF TRADITION AT PHILIP IIIS 16TH CENTURY
PLAZA MAYOR TO THE UNBOUNDED JOY OF THE QUEEN SOFIA MUSEUM, THE
ROYAL SEAL OF APPROVAL CONTINUES TO DEFINE THE CAPITALS CULTURAL
LANDSCAPE.
REIGN IN SPAIN
There is nothing like a thick hot chocolate drink to
give you an energy boost after nightclubbing until the
early hours.
Just ask Spains heir to the throne, Felipe Prince of
Asturias.
Before he was married he would go to the Teatro
Joy Es Lava nightclub next door and then re-energise
here at Chocolatera San Gins, says royal expert
and Madrid guide Virginia Gonzlez dipping a fried-
dough churro into a thick chocolate drink. Delicious.
Possibly one of the busiest waiters in Madrid takes
a second out to show a photograph on the wall of
the 1.97m-tall Prince of Asturias leaving the 24-hour
chocolatera in the early hours with his then-girlfriend,
Spains most popular news broadcaster Letizia Ortiz.
Clearly, she was impressed. In 2004 they were mar-
ried at La Almudena Cathedral with a banquet held
at the Royal Palace opposite. It was held down
there in the covered courtyard, says guide Juana
Sanchez-Cano. The wedding was two months after
the Madrid train bombing which killed 191 so the
mood was very respectful. But at such a dark time I
think Spanish people welcomed the chance to cel-
ebrate such happiness.
The Palace is the offcial state residence of the Spanish
Royal Family and still provides a dramatic backdrop
to historic events. Sanchez-Cano reveals the Hall of
Columns stateroom, where Spain signed the treaty
that would lead to the countrys accession to the
European Union in 1986, and which was the venue
for a heroes reception hosted by King Juan Carlos for
Spains 2010 World Cup Champions.
PATRONS OF CULTURE
Across Plaza de Oriente and the statue of King Felipe
IV are the former military barracks and gunpowder
store, better known today as the Royal Theatre. It
was completed in 1850 and its opening was attend-
ed by the opera-loving Queen Isabel II. The theatre
still enjoys regular royal patronage. In 2003, Felipe
and Letizia, the new Princess of Asturias, attended
a concert to celebrate Queen Sofas birthday. It was
their frst public appearance after the announcement
of their engagement.
Queen Sofa has always been passionate about
the arts, says the theatres Graa Ramos, revealing
the buildings backstage secrets from gigantic hydrau-
lics that lower and raise multiple stages to the prop de-
partment where artists are putting the fnishing touch-
es to a stage dummy corpse. The Queen regularly
enjoys performances here and often goes back stage
to thank the production staff as well as the artists.
The Queen is also the foundation president of the
famous art centre that takes her name, the Reina
Sofa. Almost three million people visit this former
hospital (founded by King Philip II) every year to ex-
perience Picassos famous Guernica painting, its stag-
gering collections of Dali and Miro masterpieces and
exhibitions of contemporary works that are changed
every three months.
The Queen, like the museum, is representative of
cultural modernity, says Jess Carrillo. We are con-
stantly creating new ways to take our stories to
people through collaborations with other museums,
lectures, talks and debate. For those that visit us, we
put these stories in context, for example, by show-
ing flms, exhibiting posters or photographs from the
same period.
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THE GREATEST
ART WORKS ON EARTH
Madrid enjoys an embarrassment of cultural riches.
At the Prado, Spains rich history is revealed through
more than 1 300 of the greatest art works on earth
including numerous royal portraits. Walking from
Goyas executions in The Third of May 1808 via mas-
terworks by Hieronymous Bosch and Rubens to
Valzquezs legendary Las Meninas is as intoxicating
as an El Greco brushstroke.
Outside the sky is bruised with cloud, but that has
not deterred the thousands of people relaxing in
the 116 hectares of former royal hunting grounds
of Retiro Park. The park was given to the people at
the end of the 19th century by the monarchy, says
guide Virginia Gonzlez, pointing out the statue of
generous King Alfonso XII towering over the busy
boating lake.
After strolling through the elegant French-inspired
gardens created by Philip V and along Statue Avenue
with its endless lines of stone monarchs carved by
18th century artists, Gonzlez walks briskly through
the city streets, every church, monument and build-
ing revealing a delicious royal story. But it is the more
prosaic tales that are the most memorable.
She stops in front of a simple facade.And this is Casa
Lucio, one of King Juan Carlos favourite restaurants,
she smiles. His favourite dish? Huevos estrellados
or special fried eggs. Look. Here it is on the menu,
a meal ft for a king for just EUR 12.
SQUARE ROOTS
Every European capital worth its weight in civic pride needs a decent square. Brussels has
the Grand Place; Prague, the Old Town Square; Rome, St Peters and London, Trafalgar
Square. In Madrid, it is all about Plaza Mayor, which King Philip II had built when he moved
his court to the city in 1561. Today it is the perfect hot spot in which to enjoy a cool beer,
but in the past it was also the focal point for celebrations, markets, bullfghts, coronations
and the occasional execution by the Spanish Inquisition.
His favourite dish? Huevos estrellados or special fried eggs.
Look. Here it is on the menu, a meal ft for a king for just EUR 12.
89 88
SPAIN USEFUL WEBSITES
www.esmadrid.com/en
REGAL FOOTSTEPS
The Madrid monastery of Las Descalzas Reales (Barefoot Royals) was once home of Carlos
I and Isabel of Portugal. When their daughter, Juana of Austria, was widowed following the
death of the Prince of Portugal she founded the Barefoot Order of Franciscan nuns here
in 1557. Her son Sebastian later went on to become king of Portugal.
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PRINCE WILLIAM AND KATE MIDDLETON MAY HAVE MET AS STUDENTS
IN SCOTLAND, BUT IT WAS IN LONDON THAT THEIR FAIRY-TALE ENDING
FINALLY CAME TRUE.
ROYAL ROMANCE
When Prince William turned to his new wife on
the balcony of Buckingham Palace in 2011 and said:
I love you. One more kiss. It was the tear-jerking
happy-ever-after ending to a royal romance that
had truly captivated the world.
Today that royal magic continues to cast a spell over
visitors to the UK capital. They have a youth, glam-
our and beauty that completely transcends celeb-
rity, says London guide Angela Akehurst. This is the
real story of the little girl, a commoner, who grew
up to become a princess. Its irresistible.
She is not wrong. Despite the chilly air, there are
hundreds of tourists thronging the golden gates of
Buckingham Palace to photograph the balcony that
was frst made famous as a wedding kissing spot by
that shy 19-year-old teacher, Lady Diana Spencer, and
her new 32-year-old husband Prince Charles in 1981.
Thirty years later more than two billion people tuned
in to watch the wedding of their eldest son and more
than a million lined the streets leading to Buckingham
Palace. Watching that event on TV made you feel
you were part of history, says Akehurst. I celebrated
with Champagne and fsh and chips. Like everyone
else I was absolutely captivated.
ROYAL BUSINESS
Smiling, she points past the giant statue of Queen
Victoria to show the route the happy couple took
as they drove Prince Charles vintage Aston Martin
from the wedding reception at Buckingham Palace
to the royal residence of Clarence House. Today,
nobody is at home, but there is still a forest of tour-
ists smartphones videoing the stucco faade.
Watching that event on
TV made you feel you
were part of history, says
Akehurst. I celebrated with
Champagne and fsh and
chips. Like everyone else
I was absolutely captivated.
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Round the corner from Clarence House are the
16th century brick towers of St Jamess Palace built
by Henry VIII. Closed to the public, the building is
used for offcial royal business. This is where Mary
Tudor signed the treaty that surrendered the last
of Englands continental territories, Calais in France,
and Elizabeth I set out to inspire her troops against
the Spanish Armada. In 2012, St Jamess announced
Prince William and his wife were expecting a baby,
the third in line to the throne.
I think Kate-mania has usurped interest in Princess
Diana, says Kerry Taylor, a vintage fashion specialist
and auction house owner, who made history when
she sold a 1981 black dress worn by Princess Diana
on her frst public appearance with Prince Charles for
GBP 192 000. In 2011, Taylor sold a student netting
dress worn by Kate Middleton before she became
the Duchess of Cambridge for GBP 76 000. Sadly, we
had no bids from Prince William,Taylor says.
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
TO THE QUEEN
Close to St Jamess are the glistening Royal coats of
arms above select outlets on genteel streets such as
St Jamess, Piccadilly, Jermyn Street or Pall Mall, de-
noting they are offcial suppliers to Queen Elizabeth
II, the Duke of Edinburgh or the Prince of Wales.

These can range from the priceless Faberg pieces and
uniformed doormen of jewellers of Bentley & Skinner
and the 200-year-old pharmacy of Dr Harris where
the warrant of the Prince of Wales glows above shav-
ing brushes and pots of aftershave to royal cheese-
sellers Paxton & Whitfeld where Caitlin Barrow has
A NATION MOURNS
Princess Diana brought up her two sons Harry and William at Kensington Palace. After her tragic
death in 1997, the entire area in front of the palace gates was carpeted with fowers stretching across
Kensington Gardens. It was an extraordinary time for everyone working at the palace, remembers
former curator Joanna Marschner. The palace was kept open 24 hours a day for the signing of the
books of condolence by tens of thousands of mourners.
about 300 varieties, but our bestseller is Montgomery
Cheddar, except at Christmas, when it is Stilton.
Holder of two royal warrants, nearby John Lobb
Bootmaker has been ftting royal feet since the time
of King Edward VII in the 19th century. A pair of
bespoke shoes starts from GBP 2 980. What makes
us special? We make people feel comfortable in
their shoes, smiles director Jonathan Lobb. There
are not many shoemakers like us left and our shoes
last a lifetime. Recently we had a pair of brogues in
for repairs which we had made in 1970.
At Turnbull & Asser, above a rainbow of shirt fabric,
are photographs of satisfed clients such as actors
Al Pacino and Michael Caine. Those clients not pic-
tured are Princes William and Harry.
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Our clients are well travelled and know what they
want, says James Cook of the bespoke department
where shirts start from GBP 225. They want a shirt
that makes them feel magical when they put it on. It
sounds whimsical, but once you wear bespoke you
can never go back.
ROYAL RELAXATION
After an afternoon of intensive window-shopping, it
is time for a drink. Opposite the Polynesian-themed
totem poles guarding Mahiki, the favourite nightclub
haunt of Princes Harry and miscellaneous single royals,
the Ritz, is the ideal venue for hot tea and fresh scones.
UNITED KINGDOM USEFUL WEBSITES
www.visitlondon.com
PRIDE AND GROOM
As Prince William whispered you look beautiful to his bride as she arrived before the altar
of Londons Westminster Abbey, a role call of European royalty strained to listen to every
word. Among the guests were the Prince and Princess of Spain, the Queen of Denmark,
Crown Prince and Princess of the Netherlands, the King and Queen of Norway, the Prince
and Princess of Belgium and, of course, celebrity royalty David and Victoria Beckham.
With its Louis XVI-inspired interiors the hotel has
regularly played host to regal romance. This was
where King Edward VII used to dine with divorced
socialite Wallis Simpson before he abdicated to
marry her, and where Prince Charles appeared in
public with his second-wife Camilla Parker-Bowles
for the frst time.
In London, royal history is never far away. A fve-
minute walk from The Ritz is Garrard, the discrete
jewellers who in 1981 provided Princess Dianas
GBP 28 000 sapphire engagement ring. In 2011,
William gave it to his future wife. This is my way of
keeping my mother close to all the fun and excite-
ment of the wedding, he said.
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DENMARK
www.wonderfulcopenhagen.dk
SPAIN
www.esmadrid.com/en
UNITED KINGDOM
www.visitlondon.com
Photos by Christian Andersson European Commission
READY
TO
MOVE?
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
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FROZEN ASSETS
LOOKING FOR THE COOLEST DESTINATIONS IN EUROPE? VISIT DURING
NOVEMBER TO FEBRUARY, THE EUROPEAN WINTER SEASON. NORTHERN
SKIES ARE GLOWING, SKI SLOPES ARE GLISTENING AND CHRISTMAS MARKETS
ARE MAGICAL.
Journalist Andy Round and photographer Ezequiel Scagnetti journey to Bovec in Slovenia, Kiruna in
Sweden and Vienna in Austria. They discover that when the temperature falls, there is no business
like snow business.
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FROM THE COOLEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD TO THE MAGIC OF REINDEER
SLEDDING, THE WINTER WILDERNESS OF NORTHERN SWEDEN
IS A MAGICAL EXPERIENCE.
ARCTIC ADVENTURE
At Swedens Kiruna Airport the temperature is
-18 C. Inside the famous Icehotel nearby at Jukkas-
jrvi it is a more cheerful -5 C. But in the hotels bar,
the wedding party atmosphere is warming up. Fast.
My niece Claire is marrying Lee in a couple of
hours, says guest David Murrow. They decided to
do something different rather than hold the wed-
ding in the UK and, well, this is certainly different.
There is no word on the brides dress, but when
youre 200 km north of the Arctic Circle, thermal
boots, insulated jackets and furry hats are certainly
de rigueur for guests.
We have about 150 weddings a year at the Iceho-
tels church, says representative Beatrice Karlsson.
But the main reasons more than 40 000 visitors
come here during the winter is for the tranquillity
of Europes last wilderness all around us; the chance
to stay in a unique work of art and the opportunity
to experience activities such as dog-sledding, snow-
mobiling and moose safaris.
Every winter the 5 500 m hotel is built from scratch
using 2 500 gargantuan ice-cubes chain-sawed from
the frozen Torne River and 30 000 tonnes of snow
and ice (or snice).
The hotel has a church, exhibition hall, lobby, bar
and 65 rooms including 15 art suites each individu-
ally carved by artists from countries as varied as the
Netherlands, Germany and Spain, explains guide
Robert Siverhall.
Their work is open to the public during the day.
To walk from the carved ice-belly of a whale in one
suite, into a crowd of ice statues in another, before
fnding yourself face-to-face with a frozen transpar-
ent ice dragon, is a joyously eccentric experience.
But whats it like to stay overnight? Surprisingly,
it was not the cold that we found so strange, says
American Ken Gould, fresh from a trip across Russia
on the Siberian Express.
Its the unusual sensation of sleeping in so many
layers of clothes in a giant thermal bag that I found
unusual. Still, Ive travelled to 92 countries and this is
a great thing to say Ive experienced.
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But the main reasons more
than 40 000 visitors come
here during the winter is for
the tranquillity of Europes
last wilderness all around
us; the chance to stay in
a unique work of art and the
opportunity to experience
activities such as dog-
sledding, snowmobiling
and moose safaris.
THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
The hotel has become a magnet for curious travel-
lers like Ken Gould, but it is just one highlight of an
extraordinary region.
There is a great contrast here between the moun-
tains, the forests and endless empty countryside,
says Mattias Mannberg of Kirunas Tourism Authority.
Kiruna Municipality is 19 500 square kilometres half
the size of the Netherlands but just 23 000 people
live here.

The region, he says, has become a major draw for
tourists from the UK, Germany and France and is
increasingly popular with Chinese and Japanese
travellers with a handful of direct fights from Tokyo
recently introduced for the winter season.
So, what is the big appeal for long distance travel-
lers? Simple. The fantastic swirls of colliding charged
particles known as the Northern Lights or aurora
borealis that illuminate this incredible Christmas
card landscape like dancing ghosts.
From September to March they are a major attrac-
tion for most travellers, says Mannberg. I took them
for granted when I was young, but today when I see
what they mean to tourists, I realise we are blessed.
Crunching across the packed snow of Kiruna town
from the pretty 100-year-old wooden church to the
boxy municipal hall with its art installation clock tower
through a park with two-metre snow sculptures by
Russian, Mexican and Spanish artists you quickly appre-
ciate how winter is frozen into the DNA of daily life.
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FAST TRACK TRAVEL
Dog sleds are fun, reindeer sledges are enjoyable, but the thrill of powering up a snowmobile
and racing off into the wilderness of northern Sweden is joyous. As the sun sets, the snow glows,
trees become shadows and the wind whips your visor, the world is reduced to a 40kmph slither
and a headlight-illuminated snow track. Wonderful.
ORE INSPIRING
Kiruna town was built to serve what is now the biggest iron ore
mine in the world. Run by the government-owned company
Luossavaara Kiirunavaara Aktiebolag (LKAB), it is a unique
tourist attraction with 30 000 visitors every year. Why should
people visit? Its an opportunity to go 540 metres underground
to experience a mine thats working 24/7, says LKABs Ylva
Sievertsson. Its the most modern mine in the world and a lot
of mining technology was invented here.
SWEDEN USEFUL WEBSITES
www.visitsweden.com www.kiruna.se www.visitsapmi.com www.icehotel.com www.lkab.com
From November to April, metres-thick duvets of
snow coat everything, daylight seems to last for
minutes and countryside temperatures can plum-
met to -30 C.
Getting dressed in the morning involves insulated
ski-pants and extra socks, collecting the shopping
is easier with a sledge and plugging your car engine
into the mains overnight is essential if you want it
warm enough to start the next morning.
INDIGENOUS PEOPLES
A short drive from town is the Smi Siida Culture
Centre, featuring a small museum, handicraft shop
and a deliciously warm caf. Here, over coffee, Smi
representative Lennart Pittja outlines the philoso-
phy of VisitSpmi, an organisation funded by the
Swedish Government and the European Union.
Smi are one of the worlds indigenous peoples and
Lapland is often promoted as our land, says Pittja.
Spmi is the true Smi name for the region that
extends across Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia
and VisitSpmi was established as the tourism and
information organisation to do this.
At the heart of the organisations philosophy is
a commitment to sustainable tourism that gives
back to Smi communities and the transferal of
Smi knowledge worldwide.
That transfer of knowledge comes to life at the cen-
tres reindeer lodge. We offer reindeer sled excur-
sions into the wilderness, overnight stays in cabins
and plenty of story telling around the fre, smiles
Smi reindeer herder Anders Krrstedt, strolling
into the paddock.
We also have a circuit cut into the snow for high-speed
Formula 1 sledding, but all our young Ferrarireindeer
are out with tourists at the moment, he laughs.
Not to worry. Lennart Pittja reins up a more pe-
destrian 15-year old pensioner reindeer, and dem-
onstrates the 10 kmph art of trotting a sled gently
through the forest snow.
Its a truly memorable sight.
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THE SOARING SKI RESORT OF KANIN MAY OFFER AN EXHILARATING ALPINE
EXPERIENCE, BUT IN THE VALLEY BELOW, BOVEC IS ONE OF SLOVENIAS
HOTTEST WINTER DESTINATIONS.
NATURAL HIGH
At 2 202 metres Kanin is the highest ski resort in
Slovenia. It forms part of the Julian Alps, a spiky range
that punctures the clouds from Northern Italy to
Slovenias Triglav National Park.
From the top, you can see the sloped roofs of Bovec
and the emerald green of the winding Soa River.
Over the ridge are Italy and the glistening Adriatic. In
two hours you can be on the beach.
But you have come to ski. And this is what its like.
Exhilarating. Exciting. Breath-taking. Especially when
theres been a lot of snow overnight, laughs Goran
Kavs director of Soa Rafting. I enjoy skiing off-piste
and the sensation of free-riding down untouched
snow at 50 to 60 kmph, spraying fresh powder for
1 200 metres is amazing. Then you might come to
a 10-metre jump, well, then theres no turning back
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES
There may be wonderful slopes in Chamonix in
France, at Ischgl in Austria or in St Moritz in Switzer-
land, but Bovec and Kanin feel like delicious secrets.
They are destinations lesser known internationally,
despite Soa valley having being celebrated as a Eu-
ropean Destination of Excellence for tourism and
intangible heritage by the European Union in 2008.
We drove almost 2 000 kilometres from Kirch-Jesut in
Germany to be here, says Josef Bone-Winkel, watch-
ing his family on Bovecs slopes for children. The peo-
ple are friendly and the scenery is wonderful.
If skiers feel like a change from the sun-drenched,
south facing slopes of Kanin, they can always catch
the bus to the Italian side of the mountain in the
north to enjoy the experience of skiing in two coun-
tries in one day.
But why leave? When apartments start from EUR 15
per person, a weeks ski-pass is EUR 196 in high season
and lessons are EUR 30 an hour, your euro goes a long
way in Slovenia. Whats more, the winter wonderland
that surrounds Bovec offers endless possibilities.
Its the most active place in Slovenia, says David tulc
Zornik of Bovec Tourism.In summer, for instance, you
can enjoy paragliding, rafting, mountain biking, kayak-
ing and go caving. In winter you can ski, sledge, snow-
shoe.
You can see this sporting legacy refected in the
success of Slovenian athletes such as the glamorous
Tina Maze, who has won endless World Cup ski
events. While tulc Zornik chats, Tinas Slovenian hit
song My Way Is My Decision, plays quietly on Caf
Kavarnas radio.
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Natasha Bartol, who works for a local insurance com-
pany, recently enjoyed the regions latest adventurous
attraction zip-lining (see box out), but when not in-
dulging in adrenaline sports, she established a cultural
history tour of Bovec. The history tour was created
with the help of local school children using informa-
tion boards to guide the curious around town.
THE PAST IS COMPOSING
THE FUTURE
Bovec has been at a continental crossroads of trade
bringing goods to and from the Italian coast to the
rest of Europe, so many merchants settled in the town
building comfortable homes, she says. But life for those
in the countryside was more diffcult: the yearly farm-
ing cycle, fnding pasture in the mountains, lambing and
cheese production offered a harsher way of life.
In Bovec today that farming legacy endures in the
architecture of postcard-pretty homes. In winter, hay
was once stored in giant third-storey lofts provid-
ing insulation for the living area below, while on the
ground level, livestock offered unique central heating.
Today these quarters are used to house that mi-
gratory species homo touristicus, jokes tulc Zornik.
Many of these houses now feature very comfortable
holiday apartments.
Still, the past is an important component of Bovecs
cultural future. Over homemade cheese and salami in
the wine cellar of Dobra Vila, a boutique hotel housed
in a former 1930s telephone exchange, Mtka Belingar
outlines a European Union-funded project to protect
the intangible legacy of the district.

We have been interviewing people to preserve their
unique knowledge whether it is about bee-keeping,
wood-working, dialects or the production of sheep
cheese, and we are looking at ways of making this
intangible legacy tangible for visitors, she says.
Much of this history has been shaped by the land-
scape of Bovec and surrounding 840 square kilome-
tres of Triglav National Park. Every frozen waterfall,
narrow pass, bottomless gorge, claustrophobic cave
or pine-coated mountain has a human story to tell.
Edvin Kravanja, curator at the Triglav National Parks
museum and information centre, tells the story of
Anton Tozbar the 19th century guide who incredibly
continued his career despite losing his jaw in a bear
attack; the 18th century miners who risked their lives
digging deep into mountain peaks for iron and the
hot-cold mountain biodiversity that created a stag-
gering range of fora inspiring botanists such as Aus-
ZIP THROUGH THE VALLEY
One of the newest attractions at Bovec is Zip Lining. In 2012, a 2.4-kilometre
wire was strung across Krnica Valley. Longer than similar zip line attractions
in Scotland or Austria, the Slovenia version is big on thrills and attracts up to
60 thrill-seekers every day. You can reach speeds of up to 60 kmph at heights
of up to 200 metres from the ground, smiles Ana raj of Aktivni Planet.
But it seems faster when you are racing over tree tops.
I enjoy skiing off-piste and the sensation of free-riding down
untouched snow at 50 to 60 kmph, spraying fresh powder
for 1 200 metres is amazing. Then you might come to
a 10-metre jump, well, then theres no turning back.
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SLOVENIA USEFUL WEBSITES
www.bovec.si www.slovenia.info
WAR WOUNDS
In winter Bovecs dark fortifcations, machine gun posts and cemeteries of World War I are
covered with giant pillows of snow. These serve as frozen stone reminders of the human
cost of the bloody Soa Front. From 1915 to 1917, on a front less than 70 km long, more than
600 000 Italians, Austrians, Bosnians, Germans, Poles, Slovenians and Hungarians were killed.
trian Julius Kugy.
Near the centre is the home of Ivan Jelini, a retired
park forester with an artistic temperament thats as
broad as his giant moustache. A sheep farmer, artist,
musician and cheese maker, he rents out apartments
and camping sites at his forest home to travellers.
Jelini pulls out six landscape paintings from a stack
of canvases. Ive been exploring the forest for as long
as I can remember, he says. But each time I sit down
to paint I see something different. This is a genuinely
unique place.
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CHRISTMAS SHOPPERS HAVE A BALL IN THE ROMANTIC
WINTER WONDERLAND OF VIENNAS FESTIVE MARKETS.
VIENNESE WALTZ
Winters in Austria will deep freeze your nose and
curl your toes, but Vienna at Christmas will melt
your heart like no other city.
From November to December each year, more
than 40 festive markets set up stalls in the Austrian
capital and each one gift-wraps Christmas perfectly
in all the Technicolor joys of the festive season from
dazzling decorations to roasting chestnuts.
More than three million people visit Vienna from
November 17 to December 24, says Andreas Zenker
of Viennas famous Christmas Rathaus City Hall
market, over a mug of the citys famous gluhwein.
Many come from nearby countries such as Hungary,
Italy, Slovenia, Germany, even as far away as Japan.This
market has 145 stalls, a 32-metre Christmas tree and
27 kilometres of wiring just to power the decorations.
Its a big attraction at this time of the year.
But almost every European capital from Brussels,
Belgium, to Berlin, Germany, has a Christmas mar-
ket of some description, so why come to Vienna?
The citys winter market tradition dates back to
1294 and in many ways it became the prototype of
Christmas markets, says Norbert Kettner, Managing
Director of Vienna Tourism Board.
Here the markets nestle among museums, palaces,
courtyards and in parks, which is incredibly atmos-
pheric. A city changes with the light, and Viennas
historic architecture is the perfect setting for Christ-
mas illumination.
Each Viennese market also has its own unique fa-
vour. The market on Rathausplatz, for example, is
popular with families because of its range of town
hall childrens activities that include everything from
candle-making to carol singing, while at the Old
Market at Freyung, held in the heart of the citys
historic centre since 1772, the main attractions are
traditional Austrian handicrafts and food.
At Freyung, Nusstandl nuts are still roasted and
caramelised in situ and at Franz Hllers the vibrant
glass decorations for sale are hand-blown locally.
But times are changing. You see these gingerbread
biscuits here, they are made by Karl Kammerer,
says stallholder Walter Ecker. Unfortunately he is
73 years old and the last of the traditional ginger-
bread makers in Vienna.
Opposite, Cristal Konrad is selling brezelns tradi-
tional breads woven into giant pretzel shapes. We
have apple, chocolate, but the most popular are al-
ways the traditional plain dough versions, she says.
Brezelns and gingerbread are all very well and good,
but Vienna also prides itself on a contemporary
urban approach to the concept of the Christmas
market.
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In the MQ Museum Quarter, nestling between the
citys modern art centre and the famous Leopold
Gallery, ice pavilion drinking booths and an ice-
curling rink are installed every Christmas. The best
time to go is at night when animated light shows
illuminate vast walls and the courtyard hums with
music by local DJs.
THE WINTER SOUNDTRACK
Of course, these markets may be the jewels in Vi-
ennas Christmas crown, but the winter soundtrack
of the city is a treasure trove of live music. Accord-
ing to Viennas tourism authority there are a stag-
gering 15 000 live music events of various shapes
and sizes each year. Every night in Vienna around
10 000 music fans are treated to live classical music,
says the authoritys website. This is unheard of in
any other city.
These events range from concerts by the famous
Vienna Boys Choir and extravagant performances
at the State Opera House to free concerts by the
Vienna Philharmonic at Schnbrunn (see box out).
Every night in Vienna
around 10 000 music fans
are treated to live classical
music, says the authoritys
website. This is unheard
of in any other city.
MARKET FORCES
Vienna may be the grande dame of Christmas markets, but Strasbourgs Christkindelsmrik has been
providing French festive cheer since 1570; the Belgian city of Bruges has carved out a Christmas success
for itself with the annual Snow & Ice Sculpture Festival; Colognes Christmas market is internationally
celebrated and Pragues Old Town market is a winter fairy-tale at Christmas.
117 116
Still, for Vienna visitors who dont know their li-
brettos from their legatos, an alternative source of
classic winter entertainment can be found at the
440-year-old Spanish Riding School of Viennas Im-
perial Palace. Here Iberian-descended Lipizzaner
horses and their immaculately groomed riders at-
tract more than 300 000 visitors a year with displays
from the High School of Classical Horsemanship.
AUSTRIA USEFUL WEBSITES
www.austria.info.uk www.wien.info/en
WINTER PALACE
The palace and gardens of Schnbrunn are just a 15-minute metro ride away from Vienna,
but light years away from bustle of the city. In the 17th century it was originally modelled on
Versailles Palace outside Paris and was used as a summer residence by the Habsburgs, says
guide Gabriela Steiner-Scharfetter. Today it is the most visited sight in the whole of Austria.
In addition to Imperial rooms, grand scale art, endless gardens and, incredibly, the worlds
oldest zoo founded in 1752, there is a glorious Christmas market.
The displays may take place in an 18th century win-
ter riding hall, explains the schools Karin Mayrhofer.
However, behind the scenes we have every mod-
ern facility including a solarium to warm the horses
muscles.
THE QUINTESSENTIAL
VIENNESE EXPERIENCE
After such a Christmas whirlwind of city excite-
ment, it is worth pulling up a comfortable chair in
Viennas warming caf culture.
Cafs and coffee are as much embedded in the
Austrian psyche as Viennas favourite son, Sigmund
Freud. You cant move anywhere in the capital with-
out falling into wood-panelled cafs loaded with
marble-topped tables, lavish chandeliers and wait-
ers with an attitude that is as stiff as their collars.
One such place is Caf Landtmann, where Freud
was said to be fond of Guglhupf sponge cake.
Opened in 1873, it has been owned by Anita
Querfeld for the past 36 years.
Where else in the world can you spend the entire
day reading newspapers, meeting friends, relaxing
for the price of a coffee and perhaps some cake?
she laughs. Its a quintessential Viennese experience.
And it always seems cosier at Christmas.
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SWEDEN
www.visitsweden.com
www.kiruna.se
www.visitsapmi.com
SLOVENIA
www.bovec.si
www.slovenia.info
AUSTRIA
www.austria.info/uk
www.wien.info/en
www.icehotel.com
www.lkab.com
Photos by Ezequiel Scagnetti European Commission
READY
FOR LOVE?
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
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HONEYMOON
HEARTLANDS
NEWLY-WEDS ALWAYS HOPE THEIR MARRIAGE WILL PLAY OUT LIKE A FAIRY-
TALE. SO WHAT BETTER WAY TO START THAN WITH A HONEYMOON IN
ROMANTIC EUROPE? ANDY ROUND IS SEDUCED BY THE GODDESS OF LOVE
IN CYPRUS, HAS HIS HEART BROKEN BY ROMEO AND JULIET IN VERONA AND
FALLS HEAD OVER HEELS FOR THE ROMANTIC LEGENDS OF LATVIA.
Text by Andy Round / Photographs by Christian Andersson
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THE GODDESS OF LOVE APHRODITE CASTS A CAPTIVATING SPELL
OVER THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS SEDUCING TRAVELLERS WITH A UNIQUE
MEDITERRANEAN MAGIC.
ISLAND OF LOVE
On a limestone hilltop overlooking the sea, wedding
planner Tatania Pashko is putting the finishing touch-
es to an elaborate arch covered with roses while her
assistants arrange spotless white chairs into rows.
Below, sparkling waves crash against the rock said
to be birthplace of the goddess of love Aphrodite.
Pashko has organised more than 400 weddings in
Cyprus. There are at least three a week in this loca-
tion. Why here? Its unimaginably romantic and pho-
togenic. My clients love it.You can get married in this
place and then stay in Cyprus for your honeymoon.
So legend has it, if you swim around Aphrodites
Rock three times you will be blessed with great love
and great fertility. I didnt have to do the swimming.
I just came to this hilltop, smiles Pashko, stroking her
stomach. My baby is due in a few days.
There are dozens of European islands with stunning
views, sunny panoramas and magical beaches from
Sicily and Sardinia to Malta and Madeira, but only
Cyprus can claim to be the island of Aphrodite.
Throughout history Aphrodite has inspired art,
poetry, music, sculpture and literature, says guide
Neoptolemos Michael. And for centuries Aphrodites
Rock has been a place of pilgrimage where people
came to worship fertility deities.
The area of Paphos was once the centre for the cult
of Aphrodite. Today a vast area of scattered sacred
stones is all that is left of the temple created to
worship the goddess, but information boards tell
tales of accommodating priestesses, provocatively
shaped rock carvings and a lively celebration of the
art of fertility dating back to the 12th century BC.
There are lots of deserted
intimate beaches to enjoy and
always stunning sunsets.
125 124
Michael searches for the right words to describe
the legacy of the famous goddess. Aphrodite had,
well, a complicated love life, he laughs. This is an
understatement. In the soap opera world of Greek
gods, goddesses and mere mortals, Aphrodite had
an insatiable romantic appetite. No wonder her
aphrodisiac influence is everywhere in Paphos.
On the beach by the goddesss birthplace, hearts
are outlined in pebbles, romantic graffiti scars the
rock and contemporary Aphrodites pose provoca-
tively for photographs in tiny bikinis and giant sun-
shades. Nearby, couples saunter arm-in-arm around
the five-star Aphrodite Hills resort, a contemporary
temple of love that seduces the devoted with pri-
vate Jacuzzis, plunge pools and giant suites.
Beyond Aphrodite, Cyprus enjoys plenty of other
romantic reasons to claim the title of the island of
love, says Nasos Hadjigeorgiou of Paphos Regional
Board of Tourism. We are famous for our pictur-
esque villages and dramatic coastline. There are lots
of deserted intimate beaches to enjoy and always
stunning sunsets.
In Paphos the pace of life is very relaxed and thats
what people love. Its very romantic to walk by the
harbour and enjoy a drink before having dinner at
an intimate fish restaurant. I used to do these things
myself with my girlfriend. I still do now shes my wife.
Paphos certainly has a relaxed holiday feel. Along
the promenade are bright souvenir shops, sea-view
restaurants and bars as well as an atmospheric 16th
century castle guarding sleek superyachts and bob-
bing fishing boats in the harbour.
Every September the fort is the venue for the
Aphrodite opera festival and exciting performances
are already being planned in anticipation of Paphos
status as European Capital of Culture in 2017, a title
it will share with Aarhus in Denmark.
TREE OF LOVE
On Apostolos Pavlos Avenue, overlooking the
gloomy shadows of St Solomons catacombs is an
ancient tree festooned with thousands of hand-
kerchiefs. In Cyprus it is a tradition to tie a cloth
to a tree in memory of loved ones.
Paphos has always been internationally popular.
In the past Phoenicians, Egyptians, Persians, Turks
and sunburned European tourists all stopped off for
extended visits, but it is the legacy of the Romans
that lingers on most spectacularly.
At the vast moonscape of Paphos Tomb of the
Kings, giant catacombs are carved from the lime-
stone rock, the final monumental resting places of
generations of Romans.
At the House of Dionysius, believed to be the
home of the former Roman governor, amazingly
pristine mosaics from the 2nd century AD tell tales
of transformation, jealousy and love.
The stories are endless. In one there is Narcissus
falling in love with his reflection, in another Phaedra
being burned by Eros. Then there is poor irresist-
ible Ganymede being whisked away by Zeus, Ovids
Pyramus and Thisbe who died for love and inspired
Shakespeares Romeo and Juliet and a constant pro-
cession of ever-ready hairy-legged satyr seducers.
At the House of Dionysius, believed to be the home of
the former Roman governor, amazingly pristine mosaics
from the 2nd century AD tell tales of transformation,
jealousy and love.
127 126
TRULY, MADLY, DEEPLY
A wonderful thing for couples to do is to expe-
rience scuba diving, says Photos Socratous of
Cydive. Discovering a new world together for
the first time is incredibly romantic. In Cyprus,
the visibility is clear, the water is warm and there
are underwater sites that date back to Roman
times.
POWER OF LOVE
Aphrodite is the irresistibly beautiful Greek
goddess of love and fertility. After emerging
as a desirable woman from the sea off Cyprus
(the product of godly genitals tossed in the
waves), she was married off to ugly Hephaestus
by Zeus and immediately set about being
unfaithful. No god or mortal was safe from her
sexual appetite. Just for starters, she was the
lover of Adonis (as well as being his surrogate
mother) and Ares, god of war. Her capricious
nature contributed to starting the Trojan War
(she inflamed Paris desire for Helen and he
kidnapped her) and she put snakes in the hair of
Medusa because she was jealous of her beauty.
Complicated, scheming, deadly, beautiful and
passionate, Aphrodite is irresistible.
CYPRUS USEFUL WEBSITE
www.visitpafos.org.cy
In the Almyra Hotel, infinity pools, private nine-course
dinners on sun-kissed rooftops and a cutting-edge
spa offer every 21st century indulgence.
This is the dining lounge area, says Neoptolemos
Michael gesturing across acres of bright mosaics.
Banquets would be served here to entertain high
ranking guests and afterwards everything would be
cleared away so the orgies could start.
Contemporary lovers in Cyprus tend to prefer
slightly more exclusive arrangements. In the Almyra
Hotel, infinity pools, private nine-course dinners on
sun-kissed rooftops and a cutting-edge spa offer
every 21st century indulgence.
People like to get married here because they can
spend a week with their guests and then disappear
into their own private world for a honeymoon, says
the hotels wedding organiser Sally Boyce.
It is certainly romantic. On the hotels manicured
lawn that evening a Lebanese couple celebrate
a warm honeymoon night with a private dinner.
Next door at the Annabelle Hotel a wedding party
is enjoying a show of traditional Cypriot music and
dance. There is a lot of cheering.
The next day in the hotel lobby the goddess of love
makes an unexpected appearance. Enjoy your day,
says the receptionist with the most romantic nam-
etag on the island. Of course, it reads Aphrodite.
129 128
THE ENCHANTED ITALIAN HOME OF SHAKESPEARES ROMEO AND JULIET
HAS BEEN CAPTIVATING TRAVELLERS FOR CENTURIES.
LOSE YOUR HEART
IN VERONA
In the digital age love moves at hyper-speed. Stu-
dents Daniella Katz and Jade Bruni may have only
just arrived at the Italian home where Shakespeares
Romeo sought out his Juliet but they have already
uploaded romantic pictures to their boyfriends in
South Africa.
With smartphones they photograph each other
writing declarations of love on graffiti-loaded walls
and attaching padlocks festooned with hearts to
nearby railings. They then press send.
I have two keys, says Daniella after securing her
lock. One is for my boyfriend the other is for me.
Im locking up our love.
Doesnt everyone read Romeo and Juliet at school?
laughs Jade. We had to come here, its the most
romantic place in the world.
Here is the 13th century house, said to have been
the home of Giulietta Cappelletti, a name later angli-
cised to become the most famous romantic heroine
in history, Shakespeares Juliet Capulet.
Two metres above the courtyard, Kate Backhouse
and Bas Heerma van Voss laugh as they pose for pic-
tures on the most famous balcony in literary history.
I think the appeal of Romeo and Juliet is that they
made the ultimate sacrifice for an impossible love,
says Kate. When she kisses her boyfriend, the tour-
ists below cheer.
Verona does this to people.
The city makes you fall in love with love, says guide
Franklin Baumgarten.
No kidding. Daniele Angelini organises about 600
weddings in Verona every year for the city hall or-
ganisation Sposami a Verona (Marry me in Verona).
Couples come as far away as Peru and South Africa,
he says. You have to reserve months in advance be-
cause venues like Juliets house are extremely popular.
Our most unusual request? A couple got married in
the crypt of Juliets tomb. They wore gothic clothes.
And so did their guests.
The tomb is a gloomy place for a wedding. Featur-
ing a chunky broken sarcophagus in the vaults of the
church of San Francesco, this is where, according to
local legend, Romeo and Juliet committed suicide.
Upstairs in the Museum of Frescoes, the mood is
infinitely lighter and the smiles of volunteers work-
ing at the Juliet Club are brighter than sunshine.
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131 130
SHAKESPEARES
TRAGIC LOVERS
Their families may be sworn enemies, but Romeo Montague
and Juliet Capulet are in love and they secretly marry.
Unfortunately, Romeo becomes embroiled in a revenge
killing and is exiled from Verona. While he is gone Juliet
attempts to avoid an arranged marriage by taking a potion
that puts her into a comatose state. When Romeo returns
and finds his lover apparently dead, he kills himself next
to her body. Juliet awakes and, grief-stricken, stabs herself
to death.
The club started in 1989 in response to the huge
volume of heartbroken letters from all over the
world addressed simply to Juliet, Verona.
Today we receive around 100 000 every year and
we have a team of 20 volunteers who reply to eve-
ry letter that has a return address, says the clubs
secretary Giovanna Tamassia.
She shifts through a pile of hand-written mate-
rial featuring diaries, wedding invitations, cartoons,
items of jewellery and endless stories of unrequited
love. For these people Juliet is a muse. I think just
the act of writing is a therapy in itself.
There are plenty of romantic cities in Europe from
Paris to Prague, but combined with Shakespeares
famous romance, Verona offers all the magic of Italy
distilled into one irresistible romantic package of glo-
rious chapels, al fresco restaurants, baroque palazzos,
cobbled streets, soaring pine trees, romantic bridges,
medieval towers and staggeringly beautiful churches.
Our most unusual request?
A couple got married in
the crypt of Juliets tomb.
They wore gothic clothes.
And so did their guests.
133 132
ITALY USEFUL WEBSITE
www.tourism.verona.it
WHEART AND SOUL
Over four days every February, including
Valentines Day, the city stages Verona in
Love a festival of romantic films, plays, music,
heart-shaped markets, romantic restaurant
menus and hundreds of events. When it started
in 2008 there were around 10 000 visitors,
today the festival attracts 50 000. Every
year we stage a mass synchronised kiss when
thousands of people young and old gather
together in a romantic Verona location to
kiss one another for one minute, says festival
director Loris Danielli.
SUPER SPA
Veronas spring waters have attracted visitors
for centuries, but today contemporary spa lovers
find their way to Aquardens, a giant thermal
water centre 20 minutes from Verona. Attracting
300 000 visitors during its first year in 2012,
Aquardens is open until midnight and features
outdoor and indoor pools, lagoons, waterfalls
and whirlpools as well as a dedicated centre for
massages and spa treatments.
We see a lot of romance here because we only of-
fer communal seating, says chef Alessandro Vignola,
over a serving of traditional Veronese horse stew,
pastissada de caval. Strangers sit together, chat and
before you know it, theres a spark. We have seen
a few romances start here and end in marriage.
Romance is at the heart of Verona, but the citys soul
is its 2 000-year-old Roman arena and the Opera
Festival held here every summer. Incredibly, on up to
three consecutive nights, there can be three different
performances.
The festival started in 1913, attracts up 15 000 peo-
ple a night and is the biggest outdoor opera in the
world, says the festivals art director Paolo Gavazzeni,
strolling the vast ancient stage.
The acoustics are so perfect there are no micro-
phones. But it is not just about music. Beneath a dra-
matic magical sky at night, you really feel connected
to the power of nature.
But it is the power of love that brings people back
to Verona.
Outside the arena, watching the delivery of giant
props for Verdis Aida, is Monica Viviani from Veronas
tourism organisation:
Do you remember the 1990s film version of Romeo
and Juliet? Well, the actor who played Romeo, Leon-
ardo DiCaprio, is said to own that beautiful house
across the square. Its wonderful to think that modern
day Romeos are still falling in love with Verona.
At the citys popular Caff Dante in the medieval
Piazza dei Signori, Pierangelo Tommasi sets an atmos-
pheric scene. This restaurant is very popular, but it
really comes to life at night. Imagine candlelight glow-
ing, a couple in love, delicious plates of gnocchi with
fresh truffle and, of course, a bottle of full-bodied red
wine Amarone from the nearby Valopolicella area.
You cant say no to that.
Its also impossible to say no to the rustic charms of
nearby Osteria al Duca, one of the citys oldest tav-
erns based in a creaky 13th century crenelated castle.
Legend has it that this was the home of the Montecchi
or Montague family and the birthplace of Romeo.
135 134
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SOME OF THE MOST ROMANTIC FORESTS AND BEACHES IN EUROPE ARE JUST
A SHORT DRIVE FROM THE LATVIAN CAPITAL OF RIGA. THE LEGENDS OF THIS
ENCHANTED LAND WILL CAPTURE YOUR HEART.
LATVIA FOR LOVERS
Suspended 43 metres over the lush forest of
Latvias Gauja Valley is the only cable car in Latvia.
It is an unlikely symbol of romance. In the 1960s,
a local man Aivars Janelstis fell in love with a girl
who worked in the sanatorium the other side of
the valley from him, says guide Dana Spulle. So he
decided the only way he could spend time with her
regularly was by having a cable car link.
Janelstis researched his subject carefully, lobbied for
local financial support and even managed to secure
technical expertise from engineers in Georgia.
Long story short, the cable car opened in 1969.
Janelstis married his true love and tourists have
been enjoying stunning valley views ever since.
Sweet story dont you think? smiles Spulle. The
couple still live around here.
Spulles story may be sweet, but no story melts Lat-
vian hearts quite like the tale of the Rose of Turaida.
Just minutes from Gauja Valley, in the shadow of
the 800-year-old gothic towers of Turaida castle,
newly-weds regularly pay homage to the tomb of
Latvias tragic lover. On some occasions we have
up to 20 wedding couples in a day, says museum
guide Gunta Zate. Everyone in Latvia grows up
with this legend.
And this is how it goes. A baby girl, Maija, was res-
cued from the carnage of a 17th century battle and
raised to become the great beauty known as the
Rose of Turaida. Rose, appropriately, fell for the lo-
cal gardener, Victor, and they would spend nights
cultivating their love in nearby Gtmanis cave.
WOODED BLISS
With 54 per cent of Latvia covered in lush forest,
633 protected areas and four distinctive seasons,
nature is close to every Latvians heart and
a stroll in the woods is an essential romantic
activity. Among the ancient pines of Jrmala at
Raga Kpa Nature Park, there is an attractive
open-air rustic museum.
137 136
About this time, Adam, a more predatory suitor also
appeared on the scene and when Maija rejected his
advances, he tricked her into a meeting in the cave.
Rather than be unfaithful, she told him her neck scarf
would protect her from harm, says Zate. She told
Adam to test its magic with his sword. He wounded
her and she died.Tragic.
Just a broken heart away from Turaida is the famous
cave.
Guide Dana Spulle points out the romantic graffiti
dating back to the 17th century. Wealthy people
would come here and commission personalised
messages from artisans who would climb ladders
looking for untouched stone to carve, she says.
For a small country, Latvia is big on love.
The nature is unspoiled, the culture is unique and
Latvia offers good value for money for honeymoon-
ers, says wedding organiser Agate Lse. Romance
resonates in every mansion, forest and castle.
Indeed. Ancient stones and romance go togeth-
er like love and marriage in Latvia. For instance,
the 900-year-old Livonian Order Sigulda Castle of-
fers the romantically-minded the chance to boost
their love life in a medieval style by throwing spears
(to test a grooms manhood) or through a com-
petitive 13th century coin game (to decide who will
run the household budget).
At Csis Castle, guide Liene Pelkzirne reveals how
marriage ceremonies are regularly held in one of
the ancient ruined towers officiated by dignitaries
costumed in medieval wedding wear. The newer
18th century castle section with its soaring round
tower is perfect for smaller intimate romantic cel-
ebrations, she says.
We have anniversary, marriage and engagement
events here, says Pelkzirne. But I think my favour-
ite story is of a young man who held a candle-lit
dinner for his girlfriend before proposing under the
stars in the medieval tower. She said yes.
139 138
LATVIA USEFUL WEBSITE
www.latvia.travel
GRAND DESIGNS
The spectacular Mlpils Manor just 45km from the Latvian capital of Riga is a luxurious
stately home with a history that dates back to 1760. The manor was in a terrible state when
I saw it in 2006, says owner Lga Uzkalne. But I fell in love with it. So we restored it to its
former glory and transformed it into a romantic wedding venue. Renovation work took two
years, but the stately home now offers a 125 sqm ballroom and suites for 100 guests.
If that couple were looking for somewhere to escape
for a romantic weekend, they would find it hard to
beat the endless white sands and imposing villas of
Jrmala, a European Destination of Excellence that
is just a couple of hours from the wooden houses
of Csis.
At the local museum, a unique collection of swim-
suits charts the areas history as a chic Baltic seaside
resort, from the full-body bathers of the 1800s to
the tiny bikinis that followed a century later.
Spas have been popular here since my great-
grandfathers time, the beaches are exceptionally
clean and the pine forests are a natural inspiration,
says guide Anda Raia. Jrmala has always been
famous as a romantic escape for couples.
Unsurprisingly, there are plenty of hideaway options
in Jrmala from the Baltic Beach Hotel offering 400
different spa treatments and indulgent five-star suites
to the quirky MaMa boutique hotel with its gold-
upholstered dog-motif restaurant and eccentrically
stylish attic rooms.
At the beach restaurant of 36 Line, Latvian celeb-
rity chef Lauris Aleksejevs serves up dishes of grilled
salmon, lamb and goat stew as the sun sinks into the
warm Baltic. On the sands there is a tented wed-
ding reception.
Linda Penka from Latvias Tourism Agency pauses
over her sorbet. I need to bring my boyfriend here,
she smiles, looking at couples strolling the beach.
How did we meet? He gave me a lift and I prom-
ised to meet him later to pay for the petrol. That
was 22 years ago, hes still waiting for that money.
Jrmala has always
been famous as a romantic
escape for couples.
141 140
CYPRUS
www.visitpafos.org.cy
ITALY
www.tourism.verona.it
LATVIA
www.latvia.travel
Photos by Christian Andersson European Commission
European destinations of excellence
http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/sectors/tourism/eden/
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.readyforeurope.eu
www.visiteurope.com
142
European Commission
Europe A thousand dierent stories Six themes, one continent. A journey of a lifetime
Luxembourg: Publications Oce of the European Union
2014 142 pp. 21 21 cm
ISBN 978-92-79-35076-4
doi:10.2769/89121
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