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Site Map Home page Suomeksi About Leena's Contact Welcome to Leena's.com Welcome to Leena's.com, the tutorial and pattern drafting site for PatternMaker Drafting Sofware for PC. In this site, you will find tutorials, pattern drafting instructions, sewing instructions and many other sewing projects. Please Enjoy! Use Site Map This web site contains hundreds of pages of information. To find what you need quickly, please use the Site Map PatternMaker Software, Manufacturers and Dealers For PatternMaker software, manufacturers and dealers, please go to the PatternMaker website at http://www.patternmaker.com Learning Center Tutorials Measuring Sewing instructions Sewing projects Pattern drafting Contact Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson: Drafting Patterns For Basic Sleeve pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Metric conversion table Take patterns for the garment you are going to sew. Measure the length and width of the armscye from the pattern. Refer to the picture under.
1-3-5 = armscye length 2-3-4 = armscye width 2-3 and 3-4 = 1/2 armscye width Divide armscye length by 3 to get the cap height. Measure the subject's biceps circumference. Add 6-8 cm ease to it. Measure the subject's sleeve length from the cap top to the wrist. pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API
Draw a vertical line A-B corresponding to the subject's sleeve length. Divide it in half and you get point C. Draw a horizontal line D-E corresponding to the subject's biceps measurement (biceps circumference + ease) pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API
Measure from point C downwards 4 cm and draw the elbow line. Measure 2.5 cm from point A to the left and to the right and you get points F and G. Measure 1/2 armscye width from point J to the right to get point K. pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Measure cap height from point A downwards and you get point H. Draw a horizontal line J-L which corresponds the subject's biceps measurement (biceps circumference + ease). Draw a vertical line from K upwards 3 cm and you get point M. Divide the line F-M in three and you get points N and O. Divide line G-L in four and you get points P, Q and R. The points N1, O1, P1, Q1 and R1 are situated as in the picture above: N1 0.7cm left from N. O1 1cm left from point O. P1 0.2cm right from P. Q1 0.3cm left from Q. R1 0.9cm left from R. pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API
Draw the sleeve cap smoothly through points J - M - N1- O1 - A -P1 - Q1 - R1 - L as in the picture above. pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API
Draft rest of the sleeve according to the picture above.
If you want to draft an elbow dart to the sleeve, cut the sleeve along elbow line and rotate bottom piece 2 cm clockwise, refer to the picture. When drafting the new outline of the sleeve, notice the place of the elbow dart apex.
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Altering a basic sleeve into a sleeve for dropped shoulder Lower sleeve cap with 3-6 cm. Lengthen shoulder with the same amount. Look at the picture below.
Making armscye larger/smaller This is the rule you have to follow : If you lower the armscye of the bodice, you have to broaden the sleeve at the armpit with the same amount. This makes the sleeve larger at the armscye. Refer to the picture below where the sleeve has been broadened at the armpit with totally 6 cm (3 + 3 cm). And vice versa: If you reduce the sleeve at the armpit, you have to raise the armscye of the bodice. This makes the sleeve smaller at the armscye. Please notice that if you lower the armscye of the bodice too much, you will not be able to raise your hand. So be careful when lowering the armscye. pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API
Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki
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