KAWABATA
KAWABATA
KAWABATA
2
Nara Women’s University, Nara, 630-8506 Japan
3
The University of Shiga Prefecture, 2500 Hassaka, Hikone, 522-8533 Japan
Key words: evaluation technology; fiber micromeasurement; fabric hand, ideal fab-
rics; engineered design of textile
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: ITS PRESENT structure has been used as clothing material.
STATUS This woven structure is still one of the basic struc-
tures used for clothing material today. Although
A woven structure is a simple structure. Two sets the structure of the weave is simple, the design of
of threads, the warp and the weft, are interlaced the fabric’s primary performance as a clothing
and form a cloth. For many years, this simple material is not so simple. There are two reasons
for this. One is that a method for the objective
evaluation of the primary performance of fabric
Correspondence to: S. Kawabata.
was not established until recently; second, the
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 83, 687–702 (2002)
© 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. complex mechanical behavior of the textile fabrics
687
688 KAWABATA, NIWA, AND YAMASHITA
HV Feeling Intensity
10 Very strong
9
...
5 Average
...
Figure 2 Hand evaluation by the experts in worsted 1 Very weak
textile mills. 0 No feeling
Table I The Primary Hands-Expressing Fabric Table III The Total Hand Value as Fabric
Characteristics Quality Number
THV 4.2
HV
Stiffness 5.2
Smoothness 6.8
Fullness 6.5
Table V The Mechanical and Surface Parameters Applied to the Objective Evaluation of Fabric
Hand Values and the Prediction of Other Fabric Performance
Shearing G Shear rigidity. A larger value makes fabric stiff and paper-like.
2HG Shear hysteresis. A larger value causes inelastic behavior in shearing.
2HG5 Shear hysteresis at 5° shear angle. A larger value causes inelastic
property in shearing and wrinkle problems.
Surface MIU Mean frictional coefficient. Too high and too low values yield unusual
surface feeling.
MMD Surface frictional roughness. A higher value causes roughness.
SMD Surface geometrical roughness. Too high and too low values make
unusual feeling of surface.
T Fabric thickness.
W Fabric weight per unit area.
loring craftsmen for many years. Tailoring be- Table VII. The formability component is the com-
came an industry around 1970 and line produc- ponent related to the curved line of suit, including
tion of suits began. New tailoring engineers the formability performance of fabric. The elastic
emerged at that time; however, they had no tra- component is also related to the beautiful silhou-
ditional evaluation method of fabric properties ette of suit which results from the fabric elastic
relating to prediction of suits. The engineers met properties, mainly the bending property. The
with many difficult problems on the production drape component is also related to suit in regard
line. With the cooperation of apparel engineers, to the drape of the fabric. The TAV is derived from
first, we tried to apply the mechanical parameters these three component values using equations.
as shown in Table V to tailoring process control9
and also attempted to connect these parameters
with suit appearance, that is, making-up of suit. Table VI TAV, the Prediction Value for
The prediction value is the TAV and the equa- Making-Up Performance of Suiting
tions for deriving the TAV have been investigated
with the cooperation of apparel engineers and TAV Grading
university researchers.8 The TAV is graded as
shown in Table VI. 5 Excellent
The TAV predicts the quality of appearance of 4 Good
the suit made from a fabric before tailoring based 3 Average
2 Fair
on fabric mechanical parameter measurements,
1 Poor
and consists of three components, as shown in
692 KAWABATA, NIWA, AND YAMASHITA
Components Grading
Type of Suiting
proved by a weave-design change in the trimming ation. The design is repeated until the
level to bring the fabric to ideal. The process of the ideal fabric property is predicted.
improvement is as follows: 4. Then weaving and finishing begin. It is
important to measure and inspect the fab-
1. Find a base fabric of which property may ric property in the finishing process at least
be improved by a weave-design change in once.
the trimming level to bring the fabric to
ideal. This procedure is not for all fabrics. The pur-
2. Weave design is made for the improvement pose of this trial is to obtain a guideline for man-
on the basis of the analysis of objective ufacturing ideal fabrics. When we have the guide-
measurement of the fabric. In many cases, lines for several types of fabrics, then we may
we have to seek yarns suitable for the weft modify the weave design within a narrow range
or warp, and then, in some cases, seek fi- near the guideline.
bers to get the suitable yarns. We need Tables IX–XI show an example of the develop-
cooperation with fiber producers. ment of the ideal fabric. The base fabric W5 was
3. Based on the design of weave, the THV, first chosen. This fabric is a good hand fabric and
TAV, and other performances of the fabric we considered that the W5 could be improved by a
are predicted based on the objective evalu- weave-design change of trimming level to bring
Range
THV TAV MC PF
3.68 1.76
EVALUATION TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PERFORMANCE 697
10 W5-10 design and 2/60S (20.3 m 100%) 2/56S (20.3 m 50%, 74 71.5 22.9
prediction 21.5 m 50%)
10N Experimental result 2/60S (20.3 m 100%) 2/56S (20.3 m 50%, 74 71.5 21.5
21.5 m 50%)*
10N-R Experimental result 2/60S (20.3 m 100%) 2/56S (20.3 m 50%, 74 71.5 22.7
(refinished) 21.5 m 50%)*
THV TAV MC PF
A new design for W5 (sample no. 10) and the prediction of property, and experimental results (no. 10N and 10N-R, where -R is
the sample that was refinished).
MC, mechanical comfort; PF, perfect, ideal fabric.
design and manufacturing of apparel fabrics is the subjective method. We are continuing the
promising. survey of the quality evaluation for women’s
The same “ideal” technology is applicable to fabrics. Although the examples of the applica-
the design of other fabrics such as women’s tion introduced was only worsted fabrics, the
garment fabrics. One problem in this applica- criteria are applicable to all men’s suiting re-
tion is, however, a lack of reliable evaluations of gardless of fiber kind, that is, wool, synthetic
the fabric quality for the women’s fabric even by fiber, or their blends. Recent investigations also
Table XI The Third Trial for Reproducibility and Some Trimming for Improvement, Design 10NA
(PF-Mark, Perfect)
10NA W5-10 design and 2/60S (20.3 m 100%) 2/56S (20.3 m 50%, 74 72 22.8
prediction 21.5 m 50%)
10NA W5-10NA 2/60S (20.3 m 100%) 2/56S (20.3 m 50%, 74 72 22.8
KA experimental result 21.5 m 50%)
THV TAV MC PF
4.24 4.14 PF PF
4.36 4.30 PF PF
698 KAWABATA, NIWA, AND YAMASHITA
Figure 11 The improvement of original W5 by the first, second, and third trials are
shown. The property is gradually improved. The final fabric is the Perfect Fabric (Ideal
fabric).
show that the evaluation criteria which we used tion. This is a clear direction for the textile indus-
here can be applicable to women’s suiting with try in the 21st century.
high accuracy.
The engineered design and manufacturing
technology will provide high-quality fabrics with
reasonable price for consumers. Fibers are valu- ADVANCED STUDY OF FIBER PROPERTIES
able resources, not only natural fibers but also
synthetic fibers. We need to produce apparel fab- Fibers are the basic material of textiles. The de-
rics carefully so that only high-quality fabrics are tails of fiber property are required for the ad-
manufactured. This also saves energy for produc- vanced research of textile mechanics. Because of
EVALUATION TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PERFORMANCE 699
REFERENCES
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Figure 19 The prediction map of textile research for
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DIRECTION FOR THE NEXT DECADE
sium, Mt. Fuji, Aug. 3–5, 1997.
11. Kawabata, S. Report Research Project supported
Figure 19 is the prediction map of the textile by Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research A(1), Mon-
research in the next century. Living standards busho (The Ministry of Education, Science, Sports
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We have to use them carefully, so that we do not
the 21st Textile Research Symposium, Mt. Fuji,
produce poor textiles, but only high-quality tex-
organized by Kawabata, S., Kyoto University, and
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energy. The only solution for this issue is the 15. Kawabata, S. Proceedings of the 4th Japan-U. S.
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the next generation of materials. Both of these 18. Kawabata, S.; Kotani, T.; Yamashita, Y. J Text Inst
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engineering applications depend on the advanced
19. Kawabata, S. 2nd International Conference on Ad-
theories of textile mechanics and on the deep un- vanced Materials and Technology, New Compo ’91
derstanding of fiber properties. Figure 19 is a Hyogo, Organized by Hyogo Prefecture, 1991, pp
forecasting of the structure of textile technology 51–58.
in the 21st century. Textile technology must be 20. Kawabata, S. Full Text of the International Rubber
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toward more advanced research levels. Industry, Japan, 1995, pp 147–150.