Woodwork Joints 1917

THE
MODEL LIBRARY
No. 12
Price, 25 cts.
Woodwork Joints
HOW TO MAKG' ANDWHI;RI; TO USI; TttI;M.
CONTAINING
Full tnstructions for making Moti.ise and Tenon, Lap, Dovetail,
Scarfing, and Glue' Joints, with a Chapter on
Gircular Woodwork.
2009 The Toolemera Press - www.toolemera.com

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WOODWORK JOINTS.
HOW TO 'MAKE AND WHERE
TO USE l"HEM.
Including Mortise and Tenon joints, Lap joints, Dovetail
joints, Glue joip,ts, Scarfing joints, with a Chapter on
CIRCULAR WOODWORK.
BY
A PRACTICAL JOINER.
NEW EDITION REVISED AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED,
WITH 178 ILLUSTRATIONS,
NEW YORK:
SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 120-122 LIBERTY STREET,
~ 9 7

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t \ \ j. J,
Copyright at Washington, D. C., 1905.
By SPON & C!-1AM!lEIlLAIN.
CAMELOT PRIiSS, 226.223 WILLIAM ST. t NBW YORK, U. S. A.
Before printing a,notheJ! edition of this work it
has been deemed advisable to revise and enlarge
it. To this end more than thirty new illustrations
have been added including some Angle Joints,
Halving Joints, Mortice Joints, Dovetail ' Joints,
Scarfing Joints and Joints fol' lengthening timbers,
etc,
This pook forms. one Qf <L se.ries of pop1,1.lar and
pt'1J.ctiGa.l halJ,o,l?Qo;s,
. It tJw cQnstructi(?11 of the
prillcipa) 1J,sed ip. ca.rpentry alld and
shows. not only bow tq them out, Put indicates
for wha.t purpQse they are best suited.
The irJ,struotiorJ,s given are by q. practical joiner
of many yean;' ex;perience, and are worded in as
simple a fashion as possible, consistent with the
use of proper shop terms and phrases, which, how-
ever, are duly explained.
It is hoped that this little book will ,be of especial
value to amateur woodworkers, as well as to trade
apprentices and improvers, while it is possible
that even the more advanced workman will find
some wrinkles of value in its pages.
The publishers will be pleased to receive any
suggestions that may prove of value for a future
edition.

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C()NTSNTS
.PA-GB
M ORTISE AND TENON JOINTS
' .
. '1
.
.. . 41
";LAP" JOINTS
. .,. ,.
DOVE!AIL
53
"GLUE" JOINTS.'
.
64
SCARFING JOINTS, AND JOINTS LENGTHEN-
79
ING TIMBERS .
CIRCULAR WORK
92
".. .. ; ... .., .,: ... \, ,, .' ' . ..
. .. ' '. .. , ...
... ' .... -...
:: : " '-; : . . '. " ' MoRJ'rsE' AND : .. ' : --.
'., ... . ...... . :. ;-_. ". ".,:- -.. ' ,:-
,' . .... - . . -. "
:, There : is no', ' t1lat the point oftbe
;-,,:.'t joiner lies :in- the
Jil.Ulty way in : which he . makes his joints. . No
matter wha,t he is doing, or however well it may
loqk at fit:st. glance,a close 'examination will
:t,1sually - .. reveal , :faulty joints, : and; consequently,
defective Now'" -the. reason for ' this state
n'ot ,so much 'the ' want of ability ,'in
the :use .. of-nools,. :nor the" absence, of constructive
as t4t\ 'want of. the proper
of..ma,king vadous j9intsin common
and the want of .guidance in deCiding the most
joint for the jo-1:) in hand.
. . -It is my. purpose,in-the present volume,to 'en:
to .heip the .. by
illustrating and describing tbe whole series of
joints used .in common ,. carpentry and joinery,
to what they can pro-perly be applied,
and explaining. the names of each and
every' in ' simple ,a manner:. as possib1e. " I
would advise everyone ofmy readers ' who wishes
tone able to profi t by my inftructiOriS; ' t.o make
a small modelefeach
.with its. proper. technieal 'can then be
7

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8
WOODWORK. JOINTS.
kept for reference, and, made carefully, they
will form exeellini pradtice, and .11 serve the same
purpose in carp'efitry 'a's fhe totitirtui:il practice of
the scales in learning m:tlsic, '
Before cotllmencii1g explatiation of the joints
shown in the present chapterj!.shduld llke to im-
press upon evefyOne that, iii woothVbrkirtg, it is
of first importance to prepare tIle wdbd properly. _
That is, it must first b,e 'plarie'd straIght, and out
of twist on one side, whiCh should in nearly al1
cases be the best sidE! of the wood. Arter this is
done, make a ': ' (as showri 6U many
pieces hi. the p'feseht drawit'igs)t'dwards best
edge, This Hitter musiihert be planed straight,
also to a right-lingle ,with the flite, testing it by
means of a sdtiare: ' tt is r6ni these 1;*0 sides that
all marks squared dnd gatlged, artd it will be
readily seen that if these are not true the work
will be sure to twist ahd turn in all directions;
It is evident if it is necessary for the experienced
woodworker to prepare his material properly, it is
much more so with the amateur.
In Fig. 1 two pieces of wood are shown, joined
at right angles by means of a mortise and tenon
joint, or as a carpenter would say, "tenoned"
together. A is wood with mortise, B wood with
tenon. This ii'l a very easy joint to make, the
method being as follows: To set out the mortise
take the piece marked A, and square across on
the '! face" the two marks C, shown in Fig. 2,
the distance between the two marks being the
MORTISE AND TENON ]01NTS.
9
width or-the piece B. These marks C must be
across the two edges, ,where they give
of the mortises in length. For the
wIdth of mortise, a mortise gauge to about a
third of the thickness of the wood, and make the
two !harks D, taking care to usc the gauge from
the face side. . ; ,
To make the mortise, remove the wood' exactly
to the , marks, but not beyond. This is done
much .easier holes .of suitable size are bored first.
Both ,m bormg iind using the chIsel, haH should
j.Je done: from either;' side, arid, if done properly,

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10
WOODWORK JOINTS.
the mortise should be straight through when. fin:-
ished, both at the sides and end. It. is very, un-
likely that it will be so at the first but
this should be aim of everyone, as l,t IS really -
very easy to make it so. ." t' i
To set out the tenon, square across the mark E
on the face side, continue on! the fac1 edge, as

c
I
o A
FIG. 2.
shown, ' and then again the other side, not
the edge; then gauge ' with the mortise ' gauge in
the same way as before' oli. the two edges, als.a
the end; as shown . . lit cutting theteiJ.on (WhlChlS
done with a saw), the GUt' is made,jusVoufsid
ebf
the gauge lines, so that the tenon is left full size',
and will just fit the mortise" likewise-'in: ' 'cutting
the shoulde;s', ea fin; should'
be usedJ. mu'st 'upta 'the'm:a:rksE, l'rat-onthem. '
ShouICferm:arks:,' as shouid witka' knife'
or 'not marke'a: with'a pencl)), as: this ensures'
. . - . .
: ;.
- .. ' ". ;;,: ... ' . ,;
/
".'
,.
1
!

a . Cleaner . shoulcle.f,: and.:' conse.quentIY . a 'better
'fitting .... - ,.. .. .. . . . , ...
The joint shOwn in Fig: 3'(" Ba'refaced ''': tenon
joint complete) is used incases when one pi'ece
to be j oiried is in thjCkness than' the other'
the mortise . is then made' in themi.ddle. orneatl;

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12
WOODWORK JOI NTS.
SO, as shown in ,Fig. 4, and the tenon formed witl1,
a shoulder at one side only...-:t:his is called a "bare-
faced" ten011) and is usually found in tables and
similar w6rk:, The only difference, in settirtg out,
is that i n s t ~ d of the tenon being gauged with a
mortise gauge an ordinary marking gauge is set
to ttle thiclrness of the required tenon, and this
is used to gauge ,*ith. F, mortise for" .barefaced "
tenon; G, shoulder mark for ditto.
It is often necessary to join pieces at right
angles, as shown in Fig. 5. This is done by, cur-
tailing the mortise in length, and the tenon in
:':
------ _ ....
FIG. 5.

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14 '" , WOODWORK JOINTS.
, . ' h ' at H )'The : piece which
width to SUlt, , as sown . .' , 11' d a
is ctit out ,at ,the. back , of the IS ca e
" haunching "; 'arid" it can be 1ll two ,ways.
As at 'J it is- run from nothing th:e :0
).' l'nsl'de the mortise being cut to It ,
In.,
" h h g "
h t K By this method the aunc 1ll
as s own a . ,
:..::" ".
; A
FiG. 6"
"' \
. . ht hen the job is finished: But a
1S out of Slg : w hown at L ' the mortise being
stronger way 1S s , , . d b t 't
' ' ' M This shows when fimshe , u 1
cut as at .
'h d
. . er to do and is much stronger w en one.
IS more mortise and tenon joints to
deal with, and then I will show how to fix them
MORTISE AND 1;ENON]OINTS. 15
by the various metl).o1s of pinning anq
wedging.
In Fig. 6 is shown the elevation of a wood
partition, as framel for covering with laths and
plaster, and my reason's for introdUcing it here
are that its construction requires two different
kinds of mortise and tenon joints, which have not
yet been described. At the comers A the.' posts
are fixed to the " sill" and "plate" respectively
(B and C) by means of the "haunched" tenon,
as described in a former page, and what I have
to describe now is the method of fixing the diag-
onal "brace" D to the sill and post, also the
" quarterings " or "studs" (they are known by
both terms in various parts of the country) E to
the sill and plate.
The method of forming the mortise and t'enon
for the diagonal is sh9wn in Fig. 7.. The tenon
is first cut in the ordiQary way, the, correct bevel
for the shoulder being obtained from a scale draw-
ing, or by laying out the parts in the position they
will eventually OC'cupy. The top part of the tenon
is then cut off at right angles to the shoulders,
as shown at F.
'
The setting out for the mortise is shown on the
face of the post; the bottom line G is the same
bevel as the shoulder lines on the brace; but , the
top line H is at right angles to the face of the post.
By mortising in this way j t is not only much
easier to make a good fit, but the squared-off
tenons at F form a firm abutment, which would

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16
JOINT::?
be entirely absGnt if tpe tenons inserted the
full width 'of the bra<;:e. In where especial ,
strength is required the shoulders are cut as shown J
by dotted lines, the post being cut away to suit, f
as also shown in the same way. In all ca?es where
FIG. 7.
timbers come diagonally, they should be
mortised and tenoned together in this way,
whether for carpentry, joinery, or cabinet work,
a good job cannot be made by any other
In Fig. 8 is shown the method of fixmg the
17
". hl It is 1;tsed for any
wInch have to withstand, side thrust only,
il;l. which there is 1'),0 necessity for h61ding
two parts together. The technical ' term is a
" stU? n knon, and it is simply a very short tenon
\ '
FIG. 9.
.0 the usual kLld, seldom exceeding one inch in
There is no need for me to describe the
way to set the" stub" tenon out, as what I have

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:.pr:v:iouly . wilL apply . tc . this ;therefQre it
woutd .be repetition.
", Fig: -9 shows a double tenon, which is often
used in framing together wide timber. It requires
no 'description, being simply two ordinary tenons
instead of one. The only point to remember
about it is when setting out both the tenons and
the mortises to gauge from the face edge only,
FIG. 10.
as if the tenons are gauged one from side
of which seems at first sight the proper
way, difficulties will be encountered. whe.n putting
the framing together, unless each p1ece 1S exactly
the same width; and this is seldom what we find
to be the case.
. In Fig. 10 is shown another form of double
tenon. This is used in the middle rail of. panel
doors, when mortise locks have to be inserted,
MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS.
19
as, if the ordinary single tenons are used, the mor-
tise made for the lock cuts away all the strength
of the door. What I said in reference to Fig .. 9
FIG. 11.
applies with still more force to Fig. 10, therefore
gauge both tenons from the face side of the rail.
Fig. 11 shows a method of forming a longitu-
dinal joint, in upright timbers where a vertical
FIG. 12.
only is to be borne. It is a species of
vertlcal scarfing on the principle of mortise and
tenon. . The joints are kept short, as the ma.in

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20
WOODWORK JOINTS.
object is to preserve the two pieces in the same
line. h' h' met
F
12 shows a form of tenon w 1C 1S ..
. 19. .' 11 d " tusk"
with in carpentry only; 1t 1S ca e .;
t
enon 'and is used in framing for the )OlstS of a
, . h to be left for
b
'ld' where opemngs ave
U1 mg, d F' 13 shows the
st
airs fireplaces, etc., an 19. . d th t
' . I '11 b notlce a
corresponding mortlse. t W1 e
FIG. 13.
. 'to the method of cutting the tenon there is
owmg . .
practically no weakening of the mortlse, and.
the advantage of nearly the full depth of the J01st
is obtained in the tenon. . .
A section of the complete joint is shown m F1g.
14 so as to make it clear, as well as to show how
two timbers are fixed together by means of
kev I, which, passing through tenon as
the two parts together tlghtly. In settmg
MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. 21
out, all gauging must be done from the top side of
the joints, as that is where they are required to
finish level.
Hitherto I have shown only how to make the
various kinds of mortise and tenon joints, nothing
having been mentioned as to the means adopted
to hold them together when made.
All joints in which the tenon is more than three-
quarters of an inch thick are, as a rule, pinned to-
gether. Also, in cases where the tenon only
FIG. 14.
reaches partly through the wood, the pin should
be used for fixing. On the other hand, in putting
together work . made from comparatively thin
wood, the wedges will hold it best. There are,
of course, exceptions to these rules, and in some
cases both pins and wedges are used; but when
this is done, the pin is simply driven straight
through after the work is wedged up, and it is
not really "pinning" in the proper sense of the
word.

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22
WOODWORK JOINTS.
Fig. 15 shows two pieces of timber to be
toge'cher-A being mortised (see dotted hnes) ,
and B having the t enon. First bore the hole for
the pin, as at C, nearest the side has to fit
to the shoulder, as shown; then dnve the two
pieces together, and with the point of the boring-
bit mark the centre of the hole on the t enon.
Now withdraw the latter from its mortise, and bore
\,
\.
FIG. 15.
the hole throu
g
il; but instead of placing the point
of the bit in the hole, as marked, it must be
placed about an eighth of an inch the shoul-
der. Thus, in the drawing, D is the point as
marked, and E the place for the point in boring
the hole.
Now, on putting the two timbers together, the
holes will be as shown in section in Fig. 16, and
it is evident that on driving a properly fitting pin
MORTISE AND TENON JOI NTS.
through them, the shoulders will be drawn up t o
a tight fit , and held there securely.
In Fig. 17 is shown another kind of draw-
boring. F has a " slot" mortise in the end, and
G a to fi.t. The pinhole is bored through
the mortIse, as m the preceding example, and the
position of the hole marked on the tenon in the
same way; but in this case we have not only to
draw up the shoulders tightly, but also the tenon
up to the end of the mortise. To manage this
the point of bit is inserted nearer the shoulder,
FIG. 16.
before, but farther away from the edge of the
as at H and I, which are respectively the
pomt as marked, and the point to be used.
Simple the operation of draw-boring appears
on paper, It has many pitfalls for the novice
will be as well to guard him against
dlsmlssmg the subject. Perhaps the most com-
error is. in allowing too much draught . He
thmks that If an eighth of an inch is allowed
draws the joint fairly tight, double this
:'111 naturally draw it up so much tighter. This
IS a great mistake. With the smaller amount of

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24
WOODWORK JOINTS.
draught the pin will pass through the holes com-
fortably, and will answer all purposes; but with
more, the pin cannot pass through. Therefore, a
portion only goes through, the remainder going
as a rule along the surface of the tenon, and ap-
pearing at the shoulder, thus preventing a c1ose-
fitting joint, instead of causing one. Therefore,
allow a moderate amount of draught only.
F
o
FIG. 17.
Another common error is to allow the draught
the wrong way, causing the pin to push the joint
off instead of drawing it up. This is easily
by remembering that the hole
in the tenon must be bored closer to the shoulder
than is marked; while to push the tenon up tightly,
as in Fig. 17, the draught must be allowed the
reverse way.
Fig. 18 is another method of securing this joint
by using two pins instead of one.
For draw-boring it is necessary to
make the pins properly. We often see them made
as in Fig. 1 9 (K); and then the makers wonder
why they will not act properly. Now, if the pins
are made as at L, they will draw in easily at first,
and gradually tighten up, filling the holes at both
sides, and no danger of splitting the wood.
o
o

FIG. 18 .
. be persuaded that cramping up and
pmmng 1S as good as it is not. The
latter makes a much stronger job, and really takes
scarcely any more time if set about in the proper
I. suppose I scarcely need say that
stralght gramed wood only is !?uitable for pins.
We now come to the method of wedging
and tenon joints. When this method of fixing is

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26 WOODWORK JOINTS.
adopted, the mortises are made about
wider at the back than at the face to
give room for the wedges; and as tIllS may
seem, there are both right and wrong ways of .
d 't In Fig 20 I have shown three sectiQns
omg 1..
.
of mortises, with the "wedgings" made m ,as
many different ways. M is simplr do;vn
square-a very convenient way o;f It a
mortising machine; but a very brd for t;he
FIG. 20.
object in view, viz., to fix the tenon properly.
At N the wedgings are cut at a very short
This can also be done in the machine by
the chisel and working the wrong way.. It IS
27
bad for the fixing, and bad for tIle machine, being
liable to strain it, or bend the chisels.
At 0 is shown the proper method of making
the wedgings. They are sloped easily out to
nothing-about half-way through the mortise, and
the wedges will fit tightly the whole length, as
shown at P, Fig. 21.
A very good method of wedging is shown at R,
Fig. 21, the tenon being split, and the wedges
R
FIG. 21.
inserted and driven tightly in. This is not often
adopted, as it is too much trouble; but it makes '
a good job, especially for fairly large work.
As with pins, sci with wedges, they can be made
right and wrong. A decidedly wrong method is
shown at S, Fig. 19, and yet if we watch a dozen
joiners at work we shall probably see quite half
. of them make their wedges in this way. At T. '
is shown the proper method of cutting wedges,

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WOODWORK JOINTS.
and a comparison . of the two shapes will soon
prove that this is so.
In Fig. 22, at U are shown two faults which
often show themselves in wedging up tenons. On
the right the wedge penetrates through to the
face side, owing to the tenon being too small for
the mortise, and accelerated by the use of too
small a wedge; while on the left is shown a part
of the face driven out by the use of a wedge of
the same pattern as shown at S, Fig. 19. The
remedy for each of these faults is obvious.
FIG. 22.
At V and Ware shown two methods of what
is called" fox wedging "-that is, wedging tenons
which go only partly through the wood. The
mortises have to be made larger inside than out, .
and the wedges sloped to the same extent, and a
fairly strong job is the result. V shows the
wedges at the sides of the tenon, . and W
the tenon split and the wedges mserted m 1t.
The latter makes the stronger job; but it is rather
a difficult matter to make a satisfactory job, and,
t.aken on the whole, such tenons are better fixed
with pins.
Fig. 23 shows how t6 cut'the wedges from the
waste wood in the haunchings in such work as
panel doors, sashes, etc., thus economizing both
time and material.
Wedges must only be used abutting against end
grain; if against side grain, the work will cehainly
split and be ruined; they must be the same thick-
ness as the tenons-if thicker they will split the
wood, and if thinner will turn round when driven,
with the same result.
FIG. 23.
I have before shown only simple tenons, in
which both shoulders are of equal length; Ibut I
will now proceed to show some more
joints, in which, owing to the framing having beads
and mouldings worked on it, the shoulders require
" mitring" and "scribing" to make them fit.
In Fig. 24 is shown one of the most simple of '
this kind of tenons, and in Fig. 25 is shown the
corresponding mortise. As will be seen, a 'small

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30
WOODWORK JOINTS.
.. bead" is stuck on the edge of the framing at A.
And this makes it necessary to the sfloulder
on that side the same distance longer than the
FIG. 24.
.FIG.25.
other as the width of the' bead st.uck on. Fer in-
stance, if a quarter inch bead 1S used, one
D
F1G.26.
FIG. 27.
shoulder must be one-quarter inch longer than the
th
Th
is extra length of shoulder allows
o er.
h' h
material sufficient to make the mitres .at B, w 1C ,
when the frame is put together, intersect with
each other, and make a joint, as shown in Fig. 2G.
In order to show more clearly my meaning, I
have shown in Fig, 27 a section of the framing now
described.
'
'In Figs. 28 and 29 is shown another simple form
of framing, which requires unequal to
the tenons. No moulding of any kind is worked
on this, but it is rebated (as a door frame for in-
FIG. 28.
FIG. 29.
'stance), and the one shoulder must 'be depth
of the rebate longer than the other; it is simply
sawn off square, no mitre being required in this
case. A section of the frame is shown in Fig. 30.
Figs. 31 and 32 show the tenon and mortise
respectively of what may be called a combination
of the former two joints, the frame being both
rebated and beaded. It consequently requires the
depth of the rebate, plus the size of bead allowed

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32
WOODWORK JOINTS.
on one shoulder more than the other. Thus, with
one-half inch rebate and one-quarter inch bead,
we require the long shoulder three-quarters inch
DOC]
FIG. 30.
FIG. 33.
FIG. 36.
longer than the other; and, what requires thinking
of, the bead (as f.hown in Fig. 31) must not be
mitred close to the mortise, but the depth of the
FIG . . 31.
FIG. 32.
rebate away from it, as at D. A section of this
frame is shown in Fig. 33,
We have in Figs. 34 and 35 yet another form of
what may be called compound tenon and mortise.
33
I t is such as is used in some parts for door frames
where the sills are bevelled through the greate;
part of the width, as in Fig. 36, and it follows
that the shoulders must be beveled to fit. In
such door frames the rebate is inside and the bevel
outside, so that the shoulder at the ~ e b t e side
is cut square, and the other one longer, to fit 0n
the bevel of sill. The point to be careful of in
setting out is to strike the beveled shoulder on
FIG. 34. FIG. 35.
the tenon from the same point of the width as the
bevel starts from on the sill. In the drawings
this is at the rebate line, which is a good place to
bring it to if possible; but it cannot always be
managed.
In Fig. 37 is sMwn the section of a joint in which
both shoulders are of equal length, although the
f:-aming is rebated. This is, however, balanced by
the chamfer on the opposite edge at E; both shoul-
ders, therefore, require cutting so much longer

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34
WOODWORK JOINTS.
than when the framing was square in' section,
the one sawn in square to fit the rebate, and the
other on the bevel as shown to fit the chamfer.
This latter is one of the simplest forms of a "scribed"
joint. .
Another specimen of a " scribed" joint is shown
in Fig. 38; in this case an ovalo is run on the op-
posite edge to the rebate. Thus the shoulders arc
both required the same length, as in ' Fig. 37, but
they must both be sawn off square. The ovalo
is then mitred, and the spare wood cut out with
,FIG. 38.
FIG. 37.
chisel and gouge at right angles to the edge of
the frame, so that it will fit as shown in the draw-
ing. It is not usual to "scribe" the moulding
through the whole thickness, but about half way,
the moulding being cut away from the mor-tise,
where it will not show in the finished joint.
Fig. 39 shows a section' in which the shoulder
at the moulded side would have to be longer
than at the rebated side, according to the widt h
of the ovolo.Otherwise it is the same as Fig. 33,
and must be scribed in the same way. Fig. 40
MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS. ;35
shows a bead of the same size as the depth of the
rebate, worked on the opposite edge, thus neces-
sitating shoulders of the same length, but the one
will be mitred, and in Fig. , 41 the same is shown,
but the is a wide one, so that the mortise
will in it. Therefore the mortise is affected
and must be kept the depth of the rebate narrower:
or if a slot mortise, it must be kept so much towards
the end, and in mitring the ' head, t,his must be
done exactly the reverse to what is shown in Fig. 32.
So far, I have given no reason why in some cases
" mitres." are used, and others" scribing," and it
0
--" .. , .-. , EJ- .. ,
. ___ _ ... _ " _ .. '- ... -... . - -- --...
FIG. 39. FIG. 41. FIG. 40.
may perhaps be as well if I do so. ' Any moulding
which finishes with a square member should be
scribed at the angles; while such as finish with a
feather edge, or die off to nothing, must be mitred,
for the simple reason that it is difficult to scribe
them. A glance at Figs. 42 to 45 will show my
meaning. Fig. 42 is an " ovalo," and as it has a
square at F, it is easy to scribe to it, as in Fig. 38,
which is the same moulding, though of slightly
different section. ' Fig. 43 is an " agee" moulding.
This can be scribed, but is far better mitred, not

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WOODWORK JOINTS,
. F' 44
having a 'well-defined edge to ,fit up to, be
is a "lamb's-tongue" mouldmg, and,
, , . k good work bemg prac-
mitred scnbmg to rna e . ," h mf r"
" 'b'l't' F'g 45 lS a cae tically an .impossl 11 y, 1,
' r--\ J PL D" '" D .. ",
.- --' . .. I ....... ( . .... ... .
"-" .' .
'. .............-.- ..
42
. FIG 43 FIG. 44. FIG. 45,-
. FIG, ' "
. . a. can be scribed direct with the
mouldmg, an
. h h' I
W
hen the shoulders are cut, or Wit a c ise
saw,
f d
a
fter-the ' former method pre er:e .
h t
of a piece of
In Fig, 46 is shown t e 10n
FIG,46.
. FIG. 47,
. . " .. ,
.' h d e' this is dotted for
framing rebated on eac e g, . , '11
. ' . .' and the outside shoulder WI
double' mortlses,
' th n
. ' t b thp depth of the rebates longer a
r::: qUlre 0 e . h' f the
. ' t G' while 1 one or ot er 0 , the mner one a, '
MORTISE AND T"ENON J OINTS. :'37
edges ' were moulded, that one would ' require :to
be so much longer still, to allow for the necessary
mitre or scribing,
" " J
In Fig, 47 is shown a " taper" tenon. This was
very extensively used in olden times; but is now
nearly obsolete, It is shown here more as what
to avoid than as an example to be followed. The
' setting out must either be done fro:n the centre,
' or two mortise gauges used, and great care
FIG. 48,
quired or the wood is split when driving it to-
gether, Its holding power is weak, owing to its
wedge-like shape, so that altogether it cannot be
recommended .
It will be noticed that in the whole of'the draw-
ings the side of the t enon is brought to the edge
of the rebate, where there is one, and where'
are both rebate and moulding, as in Figs, 33, 4'2
to 45, the centre square should give the thickness

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38
WOODWORK JOINTS.
of tenon . . If this is always done, the work will
come together much better a:nd easier, and mis-
takes are less liable to be made. It is not always
possible to arrange matters in this way; but as a
rule it can be done, and, in such it always
should be so.
Another important point to remember is, if a
moulding of any kind is worked on framing it
should be on the face side or edge, so that there
FiG. 49.
will be no difficulty in making it intersect; and if
both sides or edges are moulded, or even rebated,
the stuff should be gauged to width . or thickness
or both, if necessary. If this is not done, it is
impossible to make the joints fit, and this is often
the reason why bad work is turned out. No time
is saved in omitting the gauging to width, as what
is gained in that way is usually thrown away in
botching up the joints in the endeavor to make
them fit, which is then an impossibility.
39
When a bead or moulding is worked on framing
of any kind, do not take the size for granted, as a
quarter inch bead often works to five-sixteenths
inch, and so on with other sizes. The correct way
is to work the bead or moulding, as the case may
be, on a waste piece of wood, and then measure
correctly, and set out accordingly; the shoulder
will then come up properly.
Fig. 48 illustrates a plain mitred mortise and
tenon joint.
01
. :
i
FIG. 50.
Fig .. shows a mitred secret mortise and ten;)D
joint.
Fig. 50 . gives two views of an angle lap joint
half mortIsed two ways and secured with two
pins. It requires a little extra attention in fit.
ting but makes a good strong holding joint.
All mitres should be made by the aid of a tem- .
plate, the ends of which are cut to an angle of
45 degrees. A brass one is the best, but wood will
answer the purpose.

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40
WOODWORK ]OIN''l'S ..
There are many more shapes of tenon I
could. glve, but I have shown enough to give
one the correct ideas to follow, so that a, httle
thought should enao'le my read.ers to make and
correctly any form of tris joint they may come m
contact with.
\. , .. ;'
. " ' .. ,
.. 1
CHAPTER H.
, LA!''' JOINTS.
In the present chapter I . am bringing my
a series of joints of an entirely:
n:lture from those already described, alth<!>ugp. they
are used for a similar purp6se, viz;, jOinin;g ti'mbers
at various angles. , These methods !of Jointipg are
much m'ore simple than those involving
and tenon. They require less care lin setting out,
less skillin wbrkmanship, and a assort-
ment of tools to carry them out successfully, and,
as may be imagined, from a constructive point of
view, the result is not quite so satisfactory. ;
Nevertheless, lap joints are very useful in 'certain '
kinds of work, especially where cheapness is a '
consideration.
. !
In Fig. 51, herewith, is shown two pieces of
scantling joined to a third at
one (A) at the ex.treme end, the ot'her one (B)
away from the ends: .In Fig. the
piece C, with the ,notches cut ready ,to receive the
" laps" on A and B. In setting out lap joints
the notches must be squared across at the required
distance, and the deptp. marked with il ' gauge,
which should as nearly be set to half,
the . thickness of the timb.er. All gauging should
41
.' .

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42 WOODWORK JOINTS.
be done from the same side. Thus, on the piece
C the part which is gauged from is cut away, and
on A arid B it is left tpe . other part being
cut away. Correctness in this operation is very
FIG. "51.
much facilitated by marking the .side
with a fq.ce mark, as shQwn on many
companying this work, and by ,doing ,this or not,
the difference between flush joints or otherwise-

1
FIG. <52.
orj.ffiore properly speaking, between good or bad
work-is made apparent. , '
" Fig. 53 shows one of the piecp.s (A and B) irith
the "laps" cut ready for fixing in the notches
- "LAP'" JOINTS. "
43
in C, which is done bynailin15 of'screwing, as the
case may be. Sometimes the laps are cut as in
Fig. ' 54; the notch to correspond being as shown
by dotted lines at D, Fig. 52. This arrangement
gives a stronger ' joint as far as the tendency to
withdraw ' the one, piece from the at right
angles goes; 'but otherwise : there is much to
be said in: its favor;. The two gaJ.1ges ;are requirtd
in setting out this kind of lap joinf-one., being
set slightly less, and the other slightly than
II
, .
,/
, I
Frq. 54. :
FIG. 53.
half the thickness of scantling; the one used
at the shoulder, and the other at . extreme end of
lap, as at ', E F, the two po1nts ibeing then
connected l:>y a line. The,. above lap joints
are used in ' framing up woodwork, in which the
scantliri'gs' are all of one thickness and have all
to come flush together, such as partitions to which
lathing or boarding has to be sub.,equently applied.
Fig. 55' shows at G a scantling of greater depth
lapped on to one of lesser depth, the latter not
being cut away at aU: The lap for this joint is

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44
WOODWORK JOINTS.
h
. F'g 56 and unless this scantling.is sup- sownln 1. ,
.,
ported independently, as in ground floor JOist,
this method is a faulty one. A better plan,
FIG. 55.
FIG.5S
FIG. 59.
/
1
FIG. 56.
FIG. 57, '
which has the same appearance when finished, . is
to 'notch the narrow piece, as in Fig. 57, and
a double lap on the other scantling, as shown lU.
" LAP" ]OIN'I'S. .
45
Fig. 58. This gives strength to the one without
weakening the ... The notch in Fig. 57
is sometimes used for flush framing, the lap being
as in. Fig: 59. This is caHe<;i "nogging," and is
I
I
FIG. 60.
f: I
.
to be fci:und 'in: floors in which short -joists are
lapped irito main girders. It used to be a favorite
method of framing in olden times. The finished
" nogging " joint is shown at H, Fig. 55.
In Fig. 60 different kinds of lays
FIG. 61.
T. is a haunched dovetail lap, used only' whem a
comer is to be framed together. The notch is
shown at M, Fig. 61, and the lap in Fig, 62. At
K-(Fig. 60) is shown a dovetail lap proper. The

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46
WOODWORK JOINTS.
shape of notch is indicated at N (Fig. 61), and
the corresponding lap in Fig. 63. In setting out
both of the foregoing joints, the laps should be
cut first, and then laid on to the timber to be
notched, in their proper positions. The shape of
the dovetail is then marked, and the notches cut,
a tight fit being ensured by sawing a trifle inside
the marks.
Although I have shown the haunched lap (/)
in a finished state, some spare wood. must, in all
FIG. 62.
FIG. 64. FIG. 63.
cases, be left on at the end of the notched piece
until the joint is fixed together. Otherwise the
" haunching P will stand a good chance of being
split when driving in the lap. The joint L has the
same appearance as the "nQgging" (H), but it
is made far different. It is called a "ship lap,"
and the notch is shown at 0 (Fig. 61), the lap
being at Fig. 64. The method of setting out is
obvious. The occasions in which this joint should
be used are few, as, owing to the wedged shape
of the lap, there is a tendency when fixing to
" LAP" JOINTS. 47
drive the lapped -timber off the shoulders. There-
fore, this joint should only be used when framing-in
scantlings at right angles between two others,
and even then only when the latter are firmly fixed,
so that it is impossible to drive them apart. An
example for which" ship lap" joints are suitable
is when the sides of a farm building have to be
boarded uprightly, and when two or more rails
have to be fixed to the existing posts to receive
the board. These rails can better be fixed by
FIG. 65.
"ship lapping" than by any other method, as
the posts will be found unyielding.
In Figs. 65-66 is shown another method by
which the ends of timbers are firmly attached to
beams or wall-plates on which they rest. The
upper surfaces are shown as cut for the reception
of an upper timber to further bind them together.
This method though a little more complicated, has
the advantages of bracing and holding together
each timber, more firmly than. in Fig. 60.
Fig. 67 shows scantlings framed together diag-

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48
WOODW01( 1( J OI NTS.
onally the one (P) by plain, and the other (R) by
dovetail lapping. The corresponding notches are
shown in Fig. 68, and the laps in Figs. 69 arid
FIG. 66.
."
70 respective}y. In 'setting out these, the best
way i&-tB -lay out the-timber in its final position,
and tEl mark required .bevels on
FIG, 67.
Thus the proper lengths will be obtained at the
same time.
Fig. 71 shows a lap joint in whi ch the scantlings
" LAP" JOINTS. 49
cross each other at right angles. This necessitates
a notch in each piece, the one beb;; shown at 5
and the 'other at T (Fici. 73). This is often re-
quired in framing partitions, etc., and where
braced the same kind of joint is useq., but diag-
FIG. es.
onally; -and the same method of, setting out is
employed for each.
The dotted lines in Figs. 51, 55, 60, 67 and 71,
represent the gauge marks in setting out , and' are
intended to emphasize my remarks as to the
FIG. 69, FIG, 70.
necessity of always gauging from the face side,
To mark out in this manner is the only way to
obtain good work.
Fig. 73 shov,.:s a joint of a similar character,
but more complex. It is not adapted for large

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pO WOODWORK JOINTS.
works, being still more weakened by the cutting
away of the pieces at the sides.
Fig. 74 shows the method of halving when the
FIG. 71.
FIG. 72.
timbers cross each other at any angle, and Fig. 75
is a separate view of one of the parts. .
FIG. 73.
Fig. 76 is a method by which one timber is
notched on to another. This is it good joint for
the upper timber holdes as it were by a hook,
" LAP" JOINrs. 51
\
which acts against a in the lower. The
upper timber is thus pt.evented from being drawn
inward by weight placed upon it, and the lower
FIG. 74.
FIG. 75.
is strengthened against any pressure which might
tend to force it outward.
The joints which I have shown, so far, in this
FIG. 76.
series, have nearly all applied to carpenter's work
only. In next chapter I propose to change,
and deal WIth dovetail joints, so that those who

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52
JOINTS.
. d t d to" )'oiner's ,work maY by t4ese .. are eva . " . ' " ..
. .,. 1 . But '1 shall revert later, on to )omt
s
examp es. , '. .
. h . ber
. more especially for carpenters: WhlC , m num ,
are not by any means yet exnausted.
,\
. ! '
! 'j/
. '
-.
CHAPTER Ill.
DOVETAIL JOINTS.
I suppose it is needless for me to describe what
a dovetail joint is like. They are seen, in one
form or another, so frequently by every person
that they are universally recognized; but owing
probably to the very familiar form, which.nodoubt
in some respects breeds contempt, dovetailing in
a great many cases proves a pitfall for the ama-
teur, and often for the budding prqfessional joiner.
There is, however, no piece of work in the: trade
which is simpler when it is .set about in the right
way.
A dovetail joint, if made properly, requires no
nails to hold it together, or to bring the parts
down to a proper joint; but in order to attain
perfection there are one or two points which must
be attended to when making this kind of joint.
First, the stuff must be faced up properly, using
the trying plane on the flat surface. In passing
I will just mention that in dovetailing, whether
boxes, drawers, 'or whatever is ' being made, the
face side is always the inside, and the face edge
is the bottom edge.
Another point which is often neglected is to
put in plenty of "pins" or dovetails. A very
53

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54
woopwo:u<. J ;) I 0: TS.
gqod for rvOIl(. ilf s,o:t '.yQQd is to
tlwm not less 1} in" or
2t in. from centre to centre; for hard wood, or for
small work in thiB. wood, they should be spaced
closer still.
In setting out the pins, or rather the mortises
in which the pins have to fit, a half dovetail should
be placed at both top and :'ottom, as shown in
FIG. 77.
Fig. 77, and the intermediate" tails" should be
brought to an extreme point, as shown at B in
the drawings-that is, if neatness is an object;
but if this has to give way to strength, then
" tails "of the shape shown at C (Fig. 78) should
be used.
The bevels of the "tails" should be as shown
in the drawings, and in no case should they ' be
DOVET AIL JOINTS. ' 55
shaped as at ' D (Fig. 78) , If done in this way,
there is great danger of the sides sp1ittirtg off at
E, and although thi's shape at first sight would ap"
pear to be than the other, . it is really
..... ........
.; 0 D B B d e '
FIG. 78.
not so in practice. Also if one, two, or three, or
even more artiCles of the same size are being made,
the dovetails need oi ly be set out on one piece.
The whole should be placed together in
FIG. 79.
palrs, as in Fig. 79, and the marks squared over,
then screwed in the vice together, and all cut at
once with a finely set tenon saw, first of all sawing
all the pieces off to exactly the same

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56
'To ;m:ark the' piris, scfew 'One' of theen&f{siip-
posihg"thosealready 'cut 'tobe 'tlle ' sides )upnght
in' vice,\vith the ,top end 'about half an
iiich above , theberrch top, as F ' (Fig. '80) ; taking
care to keep the f<).ce side towards 'the bench.
Then lay one ,oj the , side.s"on it,,-as Gj , st:Hha t the
'< ,0.' " .;,,, . '" " " : " , ", " "
the edges of G comclde
with the ' inside of F, if. With the front
FIG. 80.'
",-,
". :
end of the same as was used to cut the
used as shown at !, mark the ' position of each
one on the end grain, and before removing the
side board, number each piece as shown in the figure
All four corners of each job in hand must be
done in this way, although taking particular notice
that 'the face side of the vertical pieceinilst be
towards the bench, and of the horizontal piece
underneath; and in addition remember that the
DOVETAIL JOINTS. 57
face edges '9f ' 'must
gether. These ' are' inti'st be kept
level while _Neglect of these points
t'hereasoil of failure" to produce 'good :Work when
making dovetailed joints. '
" In cutting the ;, pins!' some' regard must be
paid to the kind 'of wood in use; soft pine requires
trtore wood lett outsicle the marks' than hard oak-,
bu.t taki
l1
g orainary work; in yellow Ol'",hite ' deal,
white wood,' or anything ' similar, about -8. <thirty.:.
secondth part of an inch clear of the rharks on
both sides will suffice, leaving rather"less at the
two half-dov:etails.
I should)iave stated before that in cutting off
the stuff for, the erids of the :box (qrwhatever
is in hand) ,abqut,'halfaninch' extiaJength should
be allo\ved"and ' in ' scn.tating this extra
length to the -pin ,at e (ach end to
, ' - - - -----------
be cut off when the job is put together. -
Before the pins are sawn down, the marks on
the oJ,ltside, (that where they come to a point)
must be squared 'down' as ' a ' guide ' sawing par-
allelwlth the edges of the bo'ards. This isasome-
what impot:tant part,and in Fig. 81
deavcired to show how they should and should
110t be cut. ' k ' is parallel from point to ' heel,
anp, this is correct" but' not easy to ir:J.anage. Lis
cut wedge shaped, larger at the heel than at the
point, , which is bad" being liable to split 'the
boards, and. also to show abadly-fritirig joint
outside'. M is cut ' slightly smaller at ' the hed

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58
WOODWORK "JOINTS.
than at the point, which is a good fau1t--there
is no fear of splitting, and unless overdone, a good
fitting joint will result. N is cut out of parallel,
which is the worst fault of all I and must on no
accoun"t be done.
, All the pins being cut, the spare wood must be
cut out, using very thin sharp chisels. Some
workers use a bow saw to remove the spare wood
between the pins, but I do not consider it
advantage-the chisel has to be used after, and
it is quicker to remove all the wood with the
chisel at one time.
FlO. 81.
I must not forget to emphasize -the tact that ""it
is necessary in setting out to use knife or chisel
for all cross lines, both on the sides and ends.
Pencil will not do at a1\, if good work is expected.
Before putting together, each pin be slightly
pointed on all three sides, as shown in Fig. 82, so
that they will enter freely, without bruising the
wood.
When putting together, the pins should be well
glued, and the sides driven oi). at once, using a
DOVETAIL JOINTS. 59
block which is long to reach quite across,
as 0 in Fig. 83; if this is omitted, splitting is apt
to result. I have not referred to any fitting to-
gether, as I do not consider it necessary, because
when dovetails and pins are cut properly, they
FIG. 82.
will be found to go together without any pre-
liminary fitting; at least, this has always been my
experience.
In Fig. 84 is shown a side view of dove-
tailing, which is familiar to all as being used in
making" drawers. The method is the same as
that described already as regards the sides, but
the ends of the front are gauged on a certain
distance, which should, if possible, be the same as
the thicktfess of the sides, and the dovetails are

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GO WOODWORK JOINTS.
stopped- at ' the< gauge ' mark. The method' of
marking is the sariie M befbn3, and the -only
ference:is-in 'cutting :thepin;v.ihich has to be done
, '
- FIG. 84. ' '
,
largely with the chisel, as the saw can ()Illy be
used to start fhem
ThEr the pins when cut is
, FIG: 86,
' i
in Fig. 85; and those :wllo 'can :0.0 the "ordinary
dovetailing wi1l :have 'rio difficulty In: tnakirig itile
"lap j, dovetaiL '
01
In Fig; 86 -is' showrlwhat 'is sometimes callcd
ii secret,'" btit 'itis really double lap-dovetailing.
One part is done as shown in the 'figure, making
the mortises the same size as -and cutting
FIG. 88. ' ,.
FIG,87.
them ,as shown. The corresponding ,member is
as in Fig. 85, the necessary marking
done by placing -the one on the other;
in Fig. 80, and round with a marking
. ........
----....
\.
[FIG. 89. -FIG. 90.
point, then cutting them out with saw and chisel.
The side appearance ' of this when done is "shown
in Fig. 87, ahd the top edges show as Fig. ' 88,
and as will ' be readily ,uilderstood,verY' careful

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62
WOODWORK JOINTS.
work is necessary, in order to make a good job,
and, presuming' this, the Joint is as strong as tbe
ordinarv dovetaiL
FIG. Ill.
By mitring the top' edges, as in Fig. 89, the '
appearance of this part is as Fig. 90, and if done
11G. 02.
properly is an improvement. It does not add
much to the difficulty of making the joint.
Fig. 91 shows the end of one timber notched on
,
DOVEr
63
to another, at right angles. A dovetail being em-
ployed in this case.
' Fig. 92 shows a method of notching the end of
one timber on to another. A dovetail being em-
ployed and further security obtainecl by the ad-
dition of a shoulder.
Fig. 93 shows a combination of joints. A simple
dovetail right angle joint; also a halving joint with
FIG. \)3. FIG. 94.
two Used in the construction of fram-
ing to prevel.' t pulling apart.
Fig. 94 shows a simple dovetail joint used for
lengthening timbers.
Secret dovetailing proper is a difficult job for
any but an experienced man to undertake, but
it makes a good strong joint if done well, and the
appearance is the same as a mitred joint.

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I
CHAPTER IV.
t
" GLUE" JOINTS.
In the present chapter I intend to show how to
make what are, in technical phraseology, called
" glue" joints; that is, they are used in making
up a-wide board from two or more narrow ones.
It is often stated that a properly made "glue"
joint is stronger than the :wood itself, and this is,
to a certain extent, quite true ; but to make it so,
the joint must be a good one, and the two pieces
of wood must be in contact at every point, so
that practically no glue whatever is left in it ,
except what is forced into the pores of the wood.
If such a joint as this be broken forcibly, it will
be found that the wood is torn in many places,
instead of the two boards coming apart intact,
thus proving that the glue really is stronger than
the wood itself.
There is no doubt that the jointing up of boards
is the weak point of all amateur, and also of a
good proportion of professional worJe Failure is
very often due to the bad order in whi ::h planes
are' kept; in many cases it is simply carelessness,
and to the mistaken idea that" the glue will
fill up where the wood does not touch." This
64
.. GLUE " . . JOINTS, :
65
must' be dispelled -at once,as good joints canrtot
possibly be made while this opinion is entertained.
Glue joiflts are of va-rious kinds, according to
the job in hand. Thl!s, in Fig. 95 are shown
the square joint A, the matched join1' B, and the
tongued joint C. The :first is sufficien{ for most
common work, such as shelves, etc: ; -and as the
first stage of Band C is identicai with A, I will
describe the latter at length.
Boards up to three-quarters of an inch thick
are usually jointed on the shooting board, this
being the more convenient method, and they
c
FIG. 95.
.. are bound to come upright" is an expression
often heard and seen in print; consequently, when
one tries his hand, and finds that the two boards
do not come upright, he loses faith in his instruc-
tion, whether verbal or printed. Now, if the
plane is quite true, as well as the shooting board,
it will be all right; but this is very seldom the
case. If in jointing, one board is laid on .the
shooting board face upwards, and the other face
downwards, they will come right. This is shown
clearly in Fig. 96, where D shows the two boards
planed as they should be, one face up and the
other. face down, while E S:lOWS the effect when

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66 WOODWORK JOINTS,
both are planed face Fig. 97 shows
the position of the board to be jointed (F), and
the plane, as in the act of jointing (G), on the shoot-
board (H).
When jointing thicker boards than mentioned
above, must be fixed in the bench vice at a con-
venient height, so that the plane can be handled
easily, and be kept well under control. usual
method is to plane one edge straight and square
an(i then plane the other until it fits closely
on it. This way cannot be improved upon; but
to be completely successful, the first board must
FIG. 96. FIG. 97
be made quite square and straight. And how-
ever easily this may be accomplished, by the ex-
perienced joiner, it is by no means a simple matter
for the tyro, and therefore it is excusable for the
latter to make use of square and straight-edge
until he is able to do without them.
The trying plane must be set very fine for
jointing, and the iron should be sharpened as near
straight across as possible, only just round, so
as to prevent the corners from projecting. The
difficulty as a rule is to sharpen so that it is not
too round; there is no fear of getting it to:) straight
" GLUE" JOINT3.
67
across. Now, supposing the edge of the board
to be jointed is square across,but not straight,
then the high parts must be removed by the
plane in the position on the board indicated in
Fig. 98, when a shaving of para1lel thickness
will be removed, so as to alter the edge in relation
to the length of the board only. On the other
hand, supposing that on trying the two boards
together, the joint fits closely, but the top board
leans over towards you, thus showing that the
FIG. 100.
FIG. 98.
FIG . . 99.
bottom board requires more taking off at the back.
To do this, a shaving should be taken off for the
whole length of the board ,with the plane in the
position shown in Fig. 99. When required off
the front, the plane should be used as in Fig. 100.
It is quite easy to guide the plane in any of these
positIons by means of the fingers of the left hand,
which slide along the face of the board under the
plane.
If the joint is twisting (or winding), then com-
mence. the shaving at the back end, with the -plane

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68 WOODWORK JOINTS.
as Fig. 99, and gradually bring it across, so that
at the front end it finishes as Fig. 100, or vice versa,
as required.
A practised hand can tell if the joint is a good
one or not by the mere act of rubbing one board
on the other; but the novice must be content to
test them by trying to see through the joint, and
they must not be passed if the least glimme! of
light can be' seen; for this reason artificial light is
preferred to daylight by many persons when
making joints.
Matched joints as B (Fig. 95) are only used for
thin wood, such as drawer bottoms, etc. To
ensure good work the planes must be in first-class
order, and great care is needed in making the
tongue, or the two shoulders will not come up
together. In all cases a good square joint must
be made first, and the matching done after.
All boards of a thickness of three-quarter in. and
over, which require extra strength, or are to be ex-
posed to changes of the atmosphere, should be
tongued, as shown at C (Fig. 95), which materially
adds to their strength. The grooves to receive the
tongues can be made with the notching plane, if a
plough is not available; and the sharp corriers should
always be run off with the rebate plane, as at I
(Fig. 101). Neglect of this is the cause of many
well-made joints refusing to fit closely together.
Tongues for jointing are of three different kinds
-the" slip" tongue, which is made from a strip "
of wood of suitable thickness and width to fit
" GLUE" JOINTS.
69
the grooves, the grain running parallel with the
boards; this is shown in Fig. 102, inserted in the
groove made for its reception. The other kinds
are the "cross" tongue and the "diagonal"
tongue; in the former the grain runs directly op-
posite to that of the boards, while in the latter
it runs diagonally. Figs. 103 and 104 show pieces
FIG. 108.
FIG. 103.
FIG. 102.
FIG. 106. FIG. 101.
of thin boards marked off for diagonal and cross
tongues respectively. In fitting slip tongues,
they simply require" mulletting," so that they are
a fairly close fit, without being tight enough to pre-
vent the joint being rubbed when glued. In
glueing up this joint, t!:e tongue is first glued
along one edge and partly on the sides, then the
glued part is driven into its groove, after which
J

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70
WOODWORK JOI NTS .
the two edges forming the joint are coated liberally
with hot glue, including the projecting tonguc:,
and rubbed well together to expel the glue, when
it can be placed on one side until dry.
The cross and diagonal tongues are ,a little more
trouble to prepare; they must be planed to a
tain thickness, so that they can be pressed mto
the groove with t he fingers only, using a block,
Fig. 105, to plane them on. W'hen the groove 1S
full throughout the length, the sides of the pro-
'\
,
'-,
, II
III
,
FIG. 104.
FIG. 105.
jecting tongues must be planed. off wit? a rebate
plane until they are shaped sectlOn, as K
(Fig. 106), otherwise it will be d1fficult to rub the
joint. When glueing up, the must . be
removed one by one, and laid down 111 rotatlOn,
so that they can be replaced, after the thick edge
is glued, in their proper order, which the
glueing and rubbing is proceeded w1th, as pre-
viously described.
This is no place to discuss the respective merits
of " slip ;, as opposed to " cross" and" diagonal"
" GLUE " JOI NTS. 71
t Some workers advocate one and some ongues.
the other. The "slip" are certainly the least
trouble and I can say from 'experience that ,a
joint m'ade properly with a slip tongue will never
break; at least, I have never known one to do so
during thirty years' experience.
Matched or tongued joints should never be glued
until they have been fitted together to see that the
tongues are not so wide as to prevent the joint from
coming together; or failure is certain.
I III
/\'
I
II
I
/
\!
"
U
,/
f\
, I
I I
/
i
/1/1
,I
I '
I
FIG. 107.
The numbering of the joints is an important
matter, as, if not done in an easily seen manner,
the chance is that wrong boards will come together.
A good way of numbering (which should be done
before the jointing is commenced), IS shown in
Fig. 107, where it will be noticed that the numbers
on both boards show alike, making mistakes im-
possible.
Some care is necessary in making the grooves

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72
WOODWORK JOINTS.
for tongued joints, as, if not made parallel with
the sides of the boards, the result is as shown in
Fig. lOS-the joint refuses to come together at
one side, owing to the tongue being bound by the
imperfectly made groove.
FIG. 109.
FIG. 110. FIG 111.
When three or more boards have to be glued
up at one time, the steel cramp shown in Fig. 109
is a very handy appliance; it pulls joints tightly
together, and holds them stiify. The method of
using is shown in Fig. " 110 at L. The clamp M
shown in use in the same figure is also useful, es-
"
" GLUE" JOINTS.
pecially when glueing up long, narrow boards,
which have a tendency to spring or twist.
After glueing up, the boards should be stood
carefully on edge in a slanting direction, as in
Fig. 111, placing one or more strips of wood be-
tween them, according to the length. In the
figure the shaded I=ortions represent the jointed
boards, and the open portions the strips between
them.
Instead" of tongues, dowels are sometimes used
FIG. 112.
to strengthen Rlue joints, and a very good job
they make. The joints are first made in the usual
way, . and the boards are then laid on top of each
other, the position of the dowels being squared
down across the edges ' and also squared across
and down on the opposite edges, so that all will
intersect. Gauge marks are then made on the
edges of each board, crossing the squared across
marks, as shown in Fig. 112, and the dowel holf's
are bored at the point where the two marks cross.

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74 WOODWORK JOINTS.
The dowels should be placed 6 or 8 inches apart,
according to the strength required.
Eech ' hole should be slightly countersunk, as
shown in Fig. 113 anp"in section in Fig. 114. Dowel
rods of birch should be cut off to the length
wanted (from, two to two and a half inches) and
the ends pointei}, as in Fig. 117.
The diaI!1eterof the dowel is (as the thickness
of tongues) regulated by the thickness of wood
in use. Neither should exceed one third of the
finished thickness; thus for one inch boards
FIG. 113. FIG. 114.
(finishing seven-eighths) 0l1e-quarter inch should
be used, and so on in proportion.
' Dowelled joints cannqt ;be rubbed together, but
must be tightly cram lied , up after glueing; the
dowels must be well well as the joints.
Fig. 115 shows the' two prepared halves of a
drawing board, top of each other and mor-
tised for three The ' figure shows only a
centre' cross gauge mark for each mortise but there
should be three marks for each mortise (centre

and width). In addition to these three marks
" GLUE" JOINTS. 75
a gauge line should be made in the centre of the
edge of each board from end to end. Fit the
tongues and glue up, placing the board in clamps
to dry. When thoroughly dry, the ends of the
FIG. 115.
board should be marked out and cut, as in Fig. 2 B.
The two cross pieces grooved to the proper width
and '. depth with a matching plane, and fitted.

\.':'
FIG. 116.
Glue up and place in clamps to dry . . The finished
bo.ard is shown in Fig. 116.
In' sqme cases double tonguing is resorted to
(see Fig. 118). It is suitable for very thick wood,

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76 WOODWORK JOINTS.
being stronger than one thick tongue. The pro-
cedure is the same as before described, but it is
necessary to plough both grooves from the same
side of the board, or if owing to the possession
FIG. 120.
N
FIG. 119. FIG. 118. FIG. 117.
of a match plane only, this is not practicable, the
boards must be gauged accurately, to the same
thickness, or the result will be (as shown in sec-
tion in Fig. 119) the grooves riot coming together
" GLUE" JOINTS. 77
will make it impossible for the joint to come
up when the tongues are inserted, however good
it may be before.
In Fig. 120 is shown an angle joint, dowelled
<70
FIG. 122. FIG. 121.
together as shown by dotted lines. The only
difficulty in such a joint as this lies in forcing it
together tightly. One way of doing this is by
FIG. 124. FIG. 123.
screwing on the . blocks N and using the cramps.
If this is not practicable dovetail keys may be
inserted, as shown in Fig. 121. A small space
for clearance must be allowed at the ends 0, and

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78 WOODWORK JOINTS.
the edges of the keys beveled so that they draw
in tightly, when they will force the parts together,
and make a very strong job, while even if they are
seen when finished, if put in properly, there is
nothing unsightly about them. One of the dove-
tail keys, ready for insertion, is shown in Fig. 122.
FIG. 125.
Fig. 123 shows the two parts of a mitred secret
mortise and tenoned angle joint.
Fig. 124 shows a mitred dovetail angle joint.
Fig. 125 is a mitred secret mortise and tongued
angle joint. The tongue is made of hard .wood.
CHAPTER V.
SCARFING JOINTS.
In the present chapter our readers are intro-
duced to various methods of splicing 'heavy tim-
bers as used in carpentry proper as well as for
timber -structures.
Fig. 126 is the ordinary halving joint as used
for splicing wall plates, bonds, etc., which, being
supported throughout their entire length,-no severe
FIG. 126.
strain is put upon the joint itself; it is always
made fiatways of the timber as shown, and is fixed
together by nailing only. For some special work
each piece is cut at an angle, as shown by dotted
lines; this strengthens it somewhat, but it is still
only fit for the same purposes as before.
The joint in Fig. 127 is a variation of the former.
It is sometimes called a dovetail halving; its object
is to resist any tendency to pull the two (or more)
79

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80
WOODWORK JOINTS.
pieces apart endways, which it does effectually
when firmly nailed together, and the weight of a
roof is upon it. Failing this, it is very little, if
'iny, stronger than Fig. 126.
In Fig. 128 we have the ordinary splay joint,
FIG. 127.
which is used for splicing purlins, etc.; also in
repairs, such as door-posts, etc.; where, on account
of the frame being in position, the splay is the
easiest joint to make. This joint is fairly strong
when used in suitable positions, such as those men-
tioned; but must not be used where it will be
F I ~ 128.
subject to great stress or strain, either vertically
or horizontally, or it will give way.
One of the most useful joints found in carpentry
is that shown in Fig. 129, one only of the parts
being shown in Fig. 130. Both pieces are exactly
SCARFING JOINTS. 81
alike, each having both a mortise and tenon, and
it is fixed together by draw boring. This joint
cannot be used on timber less than 4 in. in thickness,
but is suitable for any sizes above this. The com-
plete joint must not be less than 18 inches long
from end to end, and for stout timber it can
with advantage be made much longer than this. It
is sometimes made so that the tenons are vertical,
and at others so that they lie horizontal w h ~ m
FIG. 130.
fixed. Which is most suitable must be decided by
circumstances; but the width of the tenons should
always run the narrow way of the wood-thus, if
the latter is placed edgeways, the tenons will be
horizontal, and if fiatways, they should be vertical.

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82 WOODWORK JOINTS.
A variation of the above joint is given in Fig.
131; the only difference in the two is the lug A,
which is left on the one piece, as in Fig. 132, a
corresponding recess beins- made in the other
piece for the lug to fit into. It will be noticed in
FIG. 131.
Fig. 131 that the recess is made longer than the
lug. This is done to admit of a pair of folding
wedges being used to tighten up the joint edge-
ways, as at B. These wedges assist the pins,
FIG. 132.
both in tiglitening up the joint and holding it
in position when finished.
Both of the foregoing joints are extensively us-:: d
to splice timbers which are supported at intervals
only, such as open-fronted farm buildings, or work-
shops with open stores under, etc.
SCARFING JOINTS.
83
Figs. 133 and 134 are simple methods for length-
ening timbers, such as wall plates br joists whe.l
supported by columns or walls.
FIG. 133.
FIG. 134.
-.
Fig. 135 is slightly different, the joint being held
firmly together by the square hardwood pin which
should fit tight when driven in.
FIG. 135.
Fig. 136 shows another form of joint for the same
purpose. The points given to the corresponding
ends of the two joists are to resist lateral pressure.
FIG. 136.
This joint is also tightened up by driving in a
square hardwood pin.
Fig. 137 is another method ' of lengthening a
wall plate, making a joint that will not pull out.

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. '
84
WOODWORK JOINTS.
Figs. 138 and 139 are joints more suitable for
heavy timbers. The joints being secured with
long iron bolts and nuts.
Fig. 140 is a joint effested by a tenon in the one
part fitting into a mortise of similar width in the
FIG. 137.
other. This is considered a very good joint when
the beam so joined is supported by a column
underneath the joint. In such case it rriaY- -be
placed 'on its narrow side, so t4at the width of
verticaL The P-QiJl.t.eq part
FIG. 138.
FIG. 139.
then strengthens the beam against lateral strain.
This method, too, is found very effective when
used vertically, there being no possibility of the
parts slipping over each other. In this case the
sally at the end must be formed by a very obtuse
angle, and the edge of the points, and of the parts
SCARFING JOINTS. 85
which receive them, must be worked very 'true
will be a chance of the wood being
by vertIcal pressure. As an additional safeguard
two bolts and nu.ts are used. '
Fig. 141 shows two pieces of timber butt-j ointed
and keyed together, while one part of the joint
made fqr fitting is given in Fig. 142, and
the key IS shown in Fig. 143,. This should be
used for timbers only, where they are subject
to a stretchmg stress. . They will, to a: certain
extent, withstand side strain, but are liable to
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FIG. 140.
give way, sooner or later, it. It will be
that the of key fit loosely endways
m theIr mortises,; this gives room for wedges at
E, which draw the joint up very tightly endways,
a.nd also allow it to be tightened up again at any
time.
Fig. 144 shows how to splice an 'Upright post.
It is, of course, likely to be useful in repairs more
than in new work; but the writer has used it in
the latter on some occasior:.s with success. It can
only be put together by driving one part on the
other sideways, and is fixed with pins .

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86 WOODWORK JOINTS.
The joint shown in section in Fig. 145 be
quite unknown to many carpenters; but is. a
very familiar one to those whose work hes m
rural districts, and who are used to farm and
estate work. F is the top end of a "teazle"
post, such as is used to support the plates in
open-fronted buildings. It is tenoned into
G, and also into the tie H, one tenon
at right angles to the other, as shown.
tinctly in Fig. 146. This is rather. a .tickl:sh Job
for a novice; but when once the prmclple is mas-
tered, it will be plain enough to understand.
FIG. 142. FIG. 143.
Briefly speaking, the shoulders of the longer tenon
I must be the thickness of the plate G longer than
those of the tenon K, less the depth which the
tie enters the plate. This brings us to Fig. 147,
hich shows the dovetail in the plate to receive
tie; while Fig. 148 shows the tie cut to fit in
SCARFING JOINTS.
81
the dovetail. This latter is called a "corking"
joint, and is set out the same as any other dove-
tail; that is, the tie is first cut to shape-shown
in Fig. 148-then laid on in position, and the
plate marked to receive it.
FIG. 145.
FIG. 147.
FIG. 144. FIG. 146.
FIG. 148.
When the tie is "corked" into the plate, and
the latter-as well as the tie-tightly pinned to
the" teazle" post, we have one of the strongest
joints which can be found in the trade.

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88 WOODWOR,K JOI NTS.
FIG. 149.
FIG. 150. FIG. 151.
,
'. .
. FIG. 152.
Flo; 153.
t t
FIG. 154.
FIG. 155.
SCARFING JOINTS. .
89
Fig. 149 shows a three step scarfing joint bored,
to be secured with 4 iron bolts.
Figs. 150 and 151 are simple scarfing joints se-
cured with one bolt.
FLO. i56.
Fig. 152 shows another form of scarfing joint
secured w i t "two bolts.
Fig. 153, scarfing joint with three bolts.
FIG. 157.
Fig. 154, scarfing joint with eigqt" bolts ..
Fig. 155, scarfing joint with two bolts and two
straps.
FIG. 158.
FLO. 150.
Figs. 156 to 161 show the joints used in .the
construction ot water-tight bulkheads, cassions,
and cofferdams. For deep excavations, the laying

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90
WOODWORK JOINTS.
of foutJ-dations for bridge piers 'and such like
where watertight joints are necessary. "
In setting out such as the foregoing, or
any others, when the timber is used direct from
FIG, 160.
FIG. 162.
the saw, it is not convenient to use the gauge
for the thickness of mortises and tenons. A
better plan is to use the iron or' steel square, as
shown in Fig. 162, as the lines are much strai'ghter
than a gauge line on rough, timber--.:consequently, '"
SCARFING JOINTS.
9J
the joints fit better. The squared across lines C
in Fig. 162 show the setting-out of the mortises
and tenons in 129 and 131"and the lines D
show the thickness of same. The wide part of
, the square being used in the figure, gives the width
of the timber at six inches; if the latter were four
inches only, 'the arm of s'qua're would have
to be used. While if the timber were 'five- inches,
a 'I i-in. square would be sui table; or, the shoulder
could be made one inch only, the tenons being
I! inches.
"
'/',

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CHAPTER VI.
CIRCULAR WORK.
We propose in the present chapter to deal with .
circular work of various kinds, 'and as this often ,
forms a puzzle for both. amateur and professional. ;
FIG. 163.
we trust that the information given will prcwe
useful to both.
In Fig. 163 is shown a circular frame made up
in two thicknesses, the segments be.ing screwed
92
CIRCULAR; WORK. - 93
to each other, and the joints crossed in the two
layers. This is a very strong method, and has
been used by the writer for making circular frames
and curbs from two feet to 30 feet in diameter,
and from one inch to four inches finished thick-
ness. It is thus applicable for a great varieJ;y of
work.
The segments can be either short or long, the
only important condition b/eing that they must
be struck to the proper radius, and cut out truly.
164.
Each will then fi"nd its own position, as it is screwed
to its fellow { until the whole circle is complete.
Fig. 164 shows a board marked out into"segments
for this kind of work. The longer the' are
the better they will cut up, as it gives more oppor-
tunities of cutting one out of the other, as at A.
Fig. 165 shows one of the segments cut out,
and Fig, 166 shows how to begin to put the circle
together. To continue this, fit another. segment .
to Band C, and screw them to .D and E
ively, , Then ' turn the whole over, and fit the>
I

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94
WOODWORK JOINTS.
next two segments to the ends F and G, screwing
them again, and so on until the circle is finished;
when, if the segments have been cut out truly,
and kept level with each other in screwing them
~
.. . ~
-- -..::=.::::=:---
- -----
----."
FIG. 165.
together, the circle will be as true as though struck
out and cut in one piece.
When screwing the segments together, do not
forget the old maxim, "fasten the ends securely,
and the middle will . not move far away." That
FIG. 166.
is, keep the screws near the ends of each segment
and the space between will take care of itself.
Whereas if the ends are not screwed, the wood is
apt to curl up, and spoil the work.
-'
CIRCULAR WORK. 95
Fig. 167 shows a circular rim,. or curb, made. up
of segments halved together. This method is
suitable for heavy work, where the timbers are
of considerable size, no matter if the circle is small
or large. The method of building up the circle
is somewhat similar to the former one; the halv:-
FIG. 167.
ings are cut on the ends of the segments to any
shape or bevel, each one being marked so as to
fit its fellow, thus making no waste wood. The
halvings should be screwed together from both
. sides, and the result is a strong curb, although
not so strong as Fig. 163, owing to the grain of
the wood not being crossed in so many places.
I

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96 WOODWORK JOINTS.
When ext ... a strength is required, circles are
sometimes built up of three or even four thick-
nesses of wood, but the method is the same; the
object to have in view is to cross the g ~ a i n of the
wood in the separate layers as much as possible,
and to screw together firml y.
Fig. 168 shows one of the segments of Fig. 167
halved ready for-screwing together.
In Fig. 169 we have a circular head door frame,
square in section, keyed and dqwelled together.
In forming this, the segments for the head must
be fitted together correctly to each other, and
FIG. 168.
also to the straight jambs H. A hardwood key
as Fig. 170 is then made for each joint, the parts
of which must be slotted and mortised correctly
to receive them, allowing space for wedging up
at one side of each. Four dowels should also
be inserted in each joint, as shown in Fig. 171;
these should also be of hard wood, but need not
be very long; an inch in each part is sufficient.
The position of the dowels can be found by gauging
from the face and inside, boring where the gauge '
marks cross, as already described for dowel joints.
A longitudinal section of the joint, as completed,
CIRCULAR WORK.
97
is .shown in Fig. 172, the tightening-up wedges
bemg shown. As will be seen in the latter figure,
the keys must not be allowed to go through to
thp. face of the frame.
FIG. 169.
Moulded and rebated frames can be jointed up
by the above method, if care be taken in the
dowelling; otherwise the moulding will not inter-
sect, and the appearance will be spoilt.
FIG. 170.
FIG. 171.
It is as well to insert a pin through each thick
part of the key (as shown in Fig. 169), to ensure
them against withdrawal owing to strain or
shrinkage.

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98
WOODWORK JOINTS.
In Fig. 173 we have another method of building
up the circular head of a door frame. This is
done in three thicknesses, which are arranged to
suit the rebate, square, and moulding respectively,
as in section Fig. 174. The method of fixing
together is the same as for the circle in Fig. 163
in segments, the grain crossing in each case.
The joints K run up straight, so that the two
outside segments fix to them at the springing;
but as the end of the middle segIll:ent would run
off to a feather edge if the joints ran up the full
thickness, they should be cut back as in Fig. 175,
thus allowing: a good thickness at the springing.
FIG. 172.
One disadvantage of this method of forming a
circular head is the necessity of the screw heads
showing, otherwise it is a stronger and easier
method than the former one ; thus this should be
taken into consideration when deciding upon
which method to adopt.
Fig. 176 is, a small circular head formed iri seg-
ments, mortised and tenoned together, and fixed
by , draw-boring. The mortises are of course
slotted, and this method is only admissible in
small work-that is, when the radius of the circle
is small. The larger the timber is in section, the
CIRCULAR WORK.
99
the A variatiori of las,t method
to. dovetaIl the segments together, instead of.
mortIse and tenon; but this requires' carefui work
.'FIG. 173.
to get a fit , and theJ.e of splitting
off the ' corners. '/_ .. - "' , :- " '
177. t he door,
bulltup ,In' three ,.thicknesses ' of in seg-
i ' f :' , . , .
.. .
, .
' FIG. 174.
ment s; the middle board, of three . .is kept"
narr?w, to form the groove f or i he pane1 " '
(see dott ed hne) also in section> ) 78. ,, " .',
, , : '
; " ." " .,
, ...
. "
"

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100 WOODWORK JOINTS.
The top inside segment is cut a.way to form a
mortise for the door mounting and the stiles can be
run up in a similar manner to those in Fig. 173,
to fix the outside segments to, or the 1atter can
be ha1ved on to the stiles below the springing.
This method of forming a Circular head panel
door is open to the same objection as the frame
in Fig. 173, that is, screws are ' necessary for
FICl. 116. FIG. 175.
fixing it tdgethe'r j otherwise it is a very convenient
and ready method. _
If the screws ,are objected to in this connection,
door heads can be put together in the same way as
the frame head in Fig. 169, using thin keys, and
dispensing with the dowels, which not be re-
\'lired, as the keys can be allowed to go through.
'[ preferred, dovetail keys can be used instead
CIRCULAR WO:l. K.
10]
of those shown j but if they are, do not make
them too tight, or the sides of the door will be
split, and all ho'iding power will be
We think that enough has now been described
in connection with joints to enable anyone to
FIG. 177.
FIG. 178.
know how to proceed in any branch he wishes,
althdugh the subject 1S not exhausted. It would,
however, be somewhat compiicated to carry it
further, and probably not of general interest.

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.. : ..
. . .,
. .
. ..... .
" . : . .
"
..

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TO DO THINGS
, Model Library Series
OF COPYRIGHTED BOOKS
1. The Study' of Electricity for Beginners.
, 2. Dry Batteries, How to Makt! them.
Electrical Circuits and Diagrams, Part 1.
4. Electric Bells, Annunciators and Alarn::s.
5. Modern Primary Batteries.
6. Experimenting with Induction Coils.
7. . Electric Gas Igniting Apparatus.
8. Small.Accumulators, How to Make and Use
9. Model Steam Engine Design.
10. Practical Electrics.
11. Inventions, How to Protect-and Sell them.
12. Woodwork Joints, How to Make 'and Use.
13. The Fireman's Guide to the Care of Boilers
14. The Slide Valve Simply EXplained.
15. The Magneto Telephone.
.
16. The Corliss Engine and Its Management.
17. Making Vvireless Outfits.
18. Wireless Telephone' Construction,
19. The Wimshurst Machine, How tC' Make It.
20. Simple Experim ents in Static Elec.tricity. '
21. Small' Electrical Measuring Instruments.
22. Electrical Circuits and Diagrams, Part 2.
23. Inductio.n Coils, How to Make Them,
24. Model Vaudeville Theatres, ,
25. Alte,rnating Currents, Simply Explained.
26. How tO, Build a 20 foot Bi-plane Glider.
27. ABC of the Steam Engine.
28. Simple Soldering. Hard and Soft.
29. Telegraphy for Beginners.
'
30. Low Voltage' Lightingwith Storage Batteries
33, House Wiring for Electric Light.
34. Magnets and Magnetism.
36. Smail Windmills and How to Make Them,
37. Collin's Wireless Plans, Part 1.
38. Collin's Wireless Plans, Part 2.
31. Lieckfield Gas and Oil Engines.
In paper covers, Price. each post paid.


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Woodwork Joints 1917

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