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6 Foot Home Bar

Home Bar Plans Entertain your friends in style with this beautiful oak bar. The top is 6 ft. long and 24 deep. The overall height about 42. The classic design features solid oak armrest molding, solid brass foot rail, a convenient work shelf in the rear, three drawers, and two sliding wine racks. The cabinet is made of oak veneered plywood. The trim and drawer fronts, from solid oak. The extensive use of pocket holes makes the assembly of this project easy and intuitive. If you have never used pocket holes in your woodworking projects, youll wonder how you ever got by without them. Pocket hole joints are extremely strong and there is no measuring. You simply drill the pocket holes in one of the work pieces to be joined, (the exact location is not critical), clamp the pieces together and insert the screws. Since the screws remain in the joint, they serve as both a dowel and a permanent clamp.

Copyright 2005 by Robert E. Reedy All rights reserved

Table of Contents

Part 1 - Dimensions
Materials List Cabinet ................................................................. 1 Front Panel .................................................................................... 2 Side Panel & Vertical Divider ...................................................... 3 Kick Panel, Shelf, & Cleats ........................................................... 4 Front Trim ...................................................................................... 5 Side Trim ....................................................................................... 6 Rear Trim ....................................................................................... 7 Rear Trim Arrangement ................................................................. 8 Materials List Brass Foot Rail .................................................... 9 Materials List Top & Arm Rest Dimensions ............................ 10 Bar Top .........................................................................................11 Bar Top Rear Trim.........................................................................12 Risers & Soffit ..............................................................................13 Materials List Drawers & Wine Racks ......................................14 Drawer Box Sides, Fronts, & Backs..............................................15 Drawer Fronts & Bottoms ............................................................16 Wine Racks ...................................................................................17

Table of Contents

Part 2 - Assembly Instructions

Attach Drawer Slides ................................................................... 18 Attach Wine Rack Slides - Assemble Bottom ........................... 19 Attach Vertical Dividers & Kick Panel ...................................... 20 Attach Side Panels and Work Shelf ..............................................21 Assemble Front & Side Panels .....................................................22 Attach Front and Side Trim ......................................................... 23 Install Upper Horizontal Trim ..................................................... 24 Arrangement of Rear Trim .......................................................... 25 Install Brackets & Measure Side Rail Length ............................. 26 Measure Front Rail Length - Assemble Rails .............................. 27 Assemble Armrest Molding ......................................................... 28 Drill Pocket Holes in the Top ...................................................... 29 Attach Rear Trim to the Top ........................................................ 30 Attach Risers to the Top .............................................................. 31 Attach Top to Molding & End Soffit ........................................... 32 Attach Center Soffit ..................................................................... 33 Assemble Drawers ....................................................................... 34 Assemble Wine Racks ................................................................. 35 Cutout Suggestions (1) .................................................................36 Cutout Suggestions (2) .................................................................37 Cutout Suggestions (3) .................................................................38

Classic Home Bar

Materials You Will Need
Two Sheets One Sheet One Sheet One ourth Sheet $our One 2 1 1 2 % 2 2 % 3 4arge (o5 *#out %6 18 (o5 18 (o5 : Oak Veneer Plywood -See Cutout Suggestions (1) Oak Veneer Plywood -See Cutout Suggestions (1) Oak Veneer Plywood -See Cutout Suggestions (2) ! "ard#oard -See Cutout Suggestions (2) % #y &' #y Oak (oards ) #y &' #y Oak (oard 2 oot length o Oak *r+rest ,olding ) oot length o Oak *r+ -est ,olding ) oot length o Polished (rass $oot -ail (2 dia+eter) 2 oot length o Polished (rass $oot -ail (2 dia+eter) Polished (rass $loor (ra.kets (2 dia+eter) Polished (rass /l#ows (2 dia+eter) Polished (rass /nd Ca0s (2 dia+eter) Sets o 11 2rawer Slides 2rawer "andles 1 ! Po.ket "ole S.rews 1 $lathead 7ood S.rews 1 $inishing 9ails 1 $inishing 9ails S+all *ngle (ra.kets

Note: Be sure all the brass items are 2 diameter and polished brass. ;ou<ll need to 0ur.hase one &< length and one 2< length o ar+ rest +olding= ;ou .an .ut the )< length > the se.ond 2< length ro+ the &< 0ie.e=
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;ou<ll need one &< length and one 2< length o 0olished #rass oot rail (2 dia+eter)= ;ou .an .ut the )< length > the se.ond 2< length ro+ the &< 0ie.e= ;ou<ll need two 0olished #rass end .a0s (2 dia+eter)=
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;ou<ll need two 0olished #rass ?6 degree el#ows (2 dia+eter)=

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;ou<ll need i@e 0olished #rass loor #ra.kets (2 dia+eter)=

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Classic Home Bar

Pocket Hole Joinery
Like many of our projects, the construction of this Home Bar is based on pocket hole joinery. Joining wood with pocket holes is extremely easy and produces very accurate and strong joints. f you don!t already have a pocket hole jig, recommend either of the following" #$lick images for details.%

Kreg K4 Master System &he 'reg '( )aster *ystem is the $adillac of pocket hole jigs. f you expect to do a lot of pocket hole joinery, this is the tool you need. $omes with training +,+.

Kreg Mini Jig Kit &he 'reg )ini Jig 'it has everything you need to make pocket holes. -hile not as fast and productive as the )aster *ystem, you can still get the job done.

Pocket Hole Screws .ou!ll need a couple of packs of //0(1 pocket hole screws.

Drilling and joining wood with pocket holes.

&he )aster *ystem may be either clamped or bolted to the -orkbench.

*ecure the workpiece and drill the pocket holes.

+rill guide can be clamped to large workpieces.

$lamp the the )ini Jig and drill the pocket hole.

2ssembling a face frame with pocket hole screws.

2ssembling cabinet sections with pocket hole screws.

$opyright 3 45/4 by 6obert 7. 6eedy

Cabinet Materials List

Page 1

Please Note! The dimensions given are based on using 3/4" thick plywood. However, much of the plywood on the market today is actually a metric size and is slightly less than 3/4" thick. This will not affect most of the dimensions, however, you will need to adjust the dimensions of the rear trim accordingly if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick.

Qty 2 1 2 2 2 1 1 15 2 2 2 4 2 4 2 2 1 1 2 2 2

Size 6 1/2" X 41 1/8" 41" X 41 1/8" 14" X 41 1/8" 14" X 23 1/2" 14" X 52 1/2" 5" X 52 1/2" 16" X 14" 14 X 2 19" X 2" 2" X 55 1/2" 2 X 36 1 1/2" X 36" 3/4" X 36" 2" X 16 1/4" 1" X 26" 1" X 18" 2" X 51" 3 1/4" X 51" 1 1/2" X 21" 1 1/2" X 40" 1 1/2" X 14 1/2"

Material 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak

Item Name Left and Right Front Panels Center Front Panel Cabinet Sides Vertical Dividers Top Work Shelf and Bottom Kick Panel Small Shelf Cleats Front Cleats Top and Bottom Trim (Front) Fluted Trim (Front) Corner Trim Side Corner Trim (Front) Top and Bottom Trim (Side) Decorative Frame (Top and Bottom) Decorative Frame (Sides) Bottom Horizontal Trim (Back) Top Horizontal Trim (Back) Vertical Divider Trim (Back) Vertical Corner Trim (Back) Drawer Divider Trim (Back)

Copyright 2005 by Robert E Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Front Panel Dimensions

Page 2

6 1/2" 6"

41"

6 1/2"

Left Front Panel

Center Front Panel

10"

Right Front Panel

10"

41 1/8"

10"

Drill pocket holes on the front sides of the center panel as shown above. These pocket holes are used to attach the three front panels together. The pocket holes will be covered with the trim later.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Side Panel & Vertical Divider

Page 3

23 1/2"

Dividers
(2 Required)

Cabinet Sides
(2 Required)
41 1/8"

free picnic table plans

14"

Cut two side panels 14" wide and 41 1/2" high from 3/4 inch oak veneered plywood. Cut two vertical divider panels 14" wide and 23 1/2" high from the same material.
14"

Workshelf/Bottom
14"

(2 Required)

52 1/2"

Cut two pieces of 3/4" oak veneered plywood 52 1/2" wide by 14" deep. One is for the cabinet bottom and the other for the main work shelf.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Kick Panel, Shelf, & Cleats

Page 4

52 1/2" 3"

Kick Panel
3/4"

5"

Cut the Kick Panel 52 1/2" long by 5" wide from 3/4" oak plywood. Cut the notches and drill pocket holes as shown. The location of the pocket holes is not critical.

2"

Small Shelf
14"

14"

16"

Cut the small shelf 16" wide by 14" deep from 3/4" oak veneered plywood.

Cut fifteen cleats 14" long by 2" wide from 3/4" oak veneered plywood. Seven of these cleats require pocket holes. All fifteen cleats require three 3/16" diameter holes for mounting screws. The screw holes need to be countersunk. The pocket holes should be about 1 1/2" from each end and one in the center. The screw holes 1/2" from the pocket holes as pictured.

The reason only seven require pocket holes is that five of these cleats will be used only for drawer slide mounts for the three drawers and do not require pocket holes. This will be illustrated in the assembly instructions

Front Cleats
2" 19"

Cut two cleats 19" long by 2" wide from 3/4" oak veneered plywood. Drill pocket holes and mounting screw holes as for the 14" cleats. These are for securing the workshelf and bottom to the cabinet front

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Front Trim
Page 5

Front Top & Bottom Trim (2 Required) 2" 55 1/2"

45 Angle

Top View

45 Angle

5/8" Fluted Trim 2 1/2" 36" 4" 4 3/4 " 1 1/4"

Cut two pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 2 1/2" wide for the fluted front trim. These pieces will cover the joint and pocket holes that are used to join the three front panels together. The flutes are not necessary but if you have a router table, I think they are worth the extra trouble. Use your router with a 1/2" core box bit to cut the flutes. The center flutes should be about 4" from each end and the edge flutes should be about 4 3/4" from each end. I recommend using some scrap wood to practice making the flutes. You will need to use your router table and fence for this if you have one.

Tip: make pencil marks on your router table fence on each side of the router bit, one 4" from the center of the bit and the other 4 3/4". Then, you can use these marks to determine the start and stop point of the workpiece.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Side Trim
Page 6

1 1/2"

CornerTrim (4 Required) 36"

3/4"

Side Corner Trim (2 Required) 36"

Side Trim (4 Required) 2" 16 1/4" 45 Angle Top View

For the corner trim, you'll need four pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 1 1/2" wide. For the front corner trim, you'll also need two pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 3/4" wide. For the Top and Bottom Side trim, you'll need four pieces of 3/4" oak 16 1/4" by 2". One end of the top and bottom trim requires a 45 degree miter cut because it must mate with the front top and bottom trim.
Decorative Frame
1" Top & Bottom (2 Required) 26" Sides (2 Required) End View of Molding 18" 1"

Cut two pieces of molding 26" long for the frame top. Cut two pieces of molding 18" long for the frame sides. All corners must have 45 degree miters. I made the molding from 3/4" by 1" wide oak and used a round over bit and ogee bit to give it the shape shown above. If you don't want to go with the above shape, you could simply round over both sides, use a beading bit, or any other design you choose.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Rear Trim
Page 07

3 1/4"

Rear Top Horizontal Trim 51"

2"

Rear Bottom Horizontal Trim 51" Vertical Divider Trim (2 Required)

1 1/2"

21" 1 1/2" Back Corner Trim (2 Required) 40"

Drawer Divider Trim (2 Required) 1 1/2" 14 1/2"

Please Note! The dimensions given are based on using 3/4" thick plywood. However, much of the plywood on the market today is actually a metric size and is slightly less than 3/4" thick. You will need to adjust the dimensions of the rear trim accordingly if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick.

The top and bottom horizontal trim may need to be slightly longer if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick. The vertical divider trim needs to be exactly twice the thickness of the plywood. So, if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick, the width of these pieces will be a little less than 1 1/2". The pocket holes pictured on some of the pieces above are optional but you may want to use them to assemble the trim before attaching it to the cabinet.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Rear Trim Arrangement

Page 8

10"

Top Horizontal Trim

14 1/2"
4"
Drawer Divider Trim

14 1/2"

Vertical Divider Trim

Vertical Divider Trim

Back Corner Trim

21"

Drawer Divider Trim

9"

Bottom Horizontal Trim

1. Attach the top horizontal trim piece 10" from the top of the side trim pieces with pocket hole screws as shown. 2. Attach the vertical divider trim to the top horizontal trim as shown. 3. Attach the bottom horizontal trim to the vertical side trim and vertical divider trim as shown. 4. Attach the drawer divider trim as shown.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Back Corner Trim

5"

Materials List for the Top & Armrest Molding Dimensions

Page 10

Qty
1 2 1 1 2 2 4 3 2 2 2 1 6 Ft 2 Ft

Size

Material
Oak Arm Rest Molding Oak Arm Rest Molding 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 5/8" Pine 5/8" Pine 5/8" Pine 5/8" Pine 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood

Item Name
Rockler item number 42768 Rockler item number 42777 Countertop Countertop cutout trim Countertop cutout trim Countertop cutout trim Countertop risers Countertop risers Countertop risers Countertop risers End soffit Center soffit

63 1/2" X 19" 40 1/2" X 1 1/2" 8" X 1 1/2" 15 1/8"X 1 1/2" 4 3/4" X 2" 4 1/4" X 2" 10 3/4" X 2" 25" X 2" 7 3/4" X 22" 54" X 7 1/4"

72"

45 Angle

Front Armrest molding

45 Angle

24"
Right armrest molding

24"
Left armrest molding

45 Angle

Miter Saw Backstop 1 3/8" by 3/4" 3 5/8" by 3/4" Miter Saw Base

The illustration above shows how to cut the 45 angles with your miter saw. The 1 3/8" by 3/4" and the 3 5/8" by 3/4" spacer strips hold the molding in the same position it will be installed on the bar top. This is an easy way to make a compound miter cut.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Bar Top
Page 11

Note: The length and width of the Bar Top depend on the exact inside dimensions of the assembled armrest molding. I recommend you assemble the armrest molding first, then measure the inside opening to determine the exact length and width of the Bar Top.
63 1/2" Bar Top

19"

8"

11 1/2"

40 1/2"

11 1/2"

The cuts for the center opening must be perfectly straight and smooth so the trim can fit flush. I recommend cutting the opening so 1/16" to 1/8" of material still needs to be removed and using your router to true the edges to the exact dimensions. Attach three perfectly straight pieces of 3/4" thick wood along the edges of the cutout to serve as router guides as shown below. Be sure to attach these strips to the bottom side so you don't have screw holes showing on the top. Use a straight router bit with a bearing on the end and a 1" cutting depth. Turn the workpiece over and carefully run the router along the edge guides with the bit bearing following the edge guides. After truing up the edges with your router, the inside corners will need to be carefully trimed with a file.
Bar Top
Bottom Side

Temporary router guides

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Bar Top Rear Trim

Page 12

40 1/2"

Center Cutout Trim

1 1/2"

Top View
45 Angle 45 Angle

Side Cutout Trim (Two Required)

1 1/2" 8" 45 Angle
Top View

45 Angle

Rear Countertop Trim (Right Side)

Rear Countertop Trim (Ledt Side)

1 1/2" 15 1/8" 15 1/8"

Top View

Top View

45 Angle

2 7/8" 1" 3/4"

Detail View

1/4"

Countertop trim pieces are all cut from 1 1/2" by 3/4" solid oak.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Risers & Soffit

Page 13

2"

Riser
25"

2"

Riser
10 3/4"

Riser
4 1/4"

Riser
4 3/4"

All the risers are 5/8" thick and 2" wide. Since armrest dimensions may vary, the lengths given in the drawings above should be considered guidelines only. Wait until you're ready to assemble the Bar Top before cutting the risers. Then you can tell exactly how long they need to be.

7 3/4"

End Soffit (2 Required)

22"

7 1/4"

Center Soffit

54"

The soffit pieces are used as trim between the armrest molding and the cabinet panels. These pieces also serve to support the outer edges of the molding. The soffit is made from 1/2" plywood. The dimensionss given in the drawings above should be considered guidelines only. As with the risers, wait until you're ready to assemble the Bar Top before cutting the soffit. Then you can tell exactly what the dimensions should be.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Materials List - Drawers & Wine Racks

Page 14

Drawers Materials List Qty 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 1 1 1 3 Size 12 1/2" X 3" 12 1/2" X 4" 12 1/2" X 8" 14" X 3" 14" X 4" 14" X 8" 13 1/2" X 13" 15 1/2" X 5" 15 1/2" X 6" 15 1/2" X 10" 14" Material 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/2" Oak Plywood 1/4" Hardboard 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak Item Name Top Drawer Box Front & Back Middle Drawer Box Front & Back Lower Drawer Box Front & Back Top Drawer Box Sides Middle Drawer Box Sides Lower Drawer Box Sides Drawer Bottoms Top Drawer Front Middle Drawer Front Lower Drawer Front Drawer Slide Set

Wine Rack Materials List Note: This materials list is for two wine racks. Qty 2 2 2 6 4 2 18" X 14" 18 3/4" X 2 3/4" 18" X 1 1/4" 12 1/2" X 3" 12 1/2" X 1 1/2" 14" Size Material 3/4" Oak Plywood 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak 3/4" Solid Oak Item Name Wine Rack Bottom Wine Rack Front Wine Rack Back Wine Rack Center Divider Wine Rack Side Drawer Slide Set

Copyright 2005 by Robert E Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Drawer Box Sides, Fronts, and Backs

Page 15

3"

Top Drawer Box Front & Back (2 Required)

12 1/2"

3"

Top Drawer Box Sides (2 Required)

14"

4"

Middle Drawer Box Front & Back (2 Required)

4"

Middle Drawer Box Sides (2 Required)

12 1/2"

14"

8"

Lower Drawer Box Front & Back (2 Required)

Lower Drawer Box Sides (2 Required)

8"

12 1/2"

14"

Drawer boxes are made of 1/2" plywood

Slightly over 1/4" Slot detail About 1/4" 3/8"

If your plywood is exactly 1/2" thick, the above dimensions will produce a finished drawer width of 13 1/2". This leaves 1/2" on each side for the drawer slides. If your plywood is not exactly 1/2" thick, you will need to adjust the length of fronts and backs accordingly so your finished drawer box width is 13 1/2". The drawer box sides should still be 14". You'll need to cut a slot just slightly more than 1/4" deep along the the bottom of each of the drawer box sides, fronts, and backs. This slot should be 3/8" from the bottom and slightly wider than the thickness of the bottom material.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Drawer Fronts & Bottoms

Page 16

6"

Middle Drawer Front

5"

Top Drawer Front

15 1/2"

15 1/2"

13" 10"

Drawer Bottoms (3 Required)

Lower Drawer Front

15 1/2"

13 1/2"

Drawer fronts are made from 3/4" solid oak. Cut the Drawer Fronts from 3/4" solid oak. You'll probably need to glue up some narrower pieces for the bottom drawer front. The cutout diagrams show a 6" and 4" section for making the lower Drawer Front. The fronts will be attached to the boxes and are wider and taller than the boxes so they will overlap the rear cabinet trim. After cutting the fronts to the correct dimensions, you'll want to put a decorative edge along the edges with your router. I used an ogee bit on the prototype but it's all a matter of taste. You'll need three drawer bottoms. These are all the same size. You can use 1/4" thick hardboard or 1/4" thick plywood as you prefer.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Wine Racks
Page 17
1/4"
3/4"

3"

Wine Rack Divider

12 1/2"

Wine Rack Bottom

3/4"

14"
1/4"
3/4"

Wine Rack Side

1 1/2"

3/4"

12 1/2"

18"

Cut the wine rack bases 18" wide by 14" deep from 3/4" oak veneered plywood. Drill three pocket holes along the front edge of the top surface as shown. One in the center and one on each side about one inch from the edges. You'll need one base for each wine rack you add to your bar. Cut the dividers from 3/4" solid oak as shown above. You'll need three dividers and two sides per wine rack.

1 1/4"

Back
18"

Cut the wine rack backs 18" wide by 1 1/4" high from 3/4" solid oak. You'll need one back per wine rack

7 1/8" 2 5/8" 2 3/4"

1 1/8" Radius

Front
18 3/4"

Cut the wine rack fronts 18 3/4" wide by 2 3/4" high from 3/4" solid oak. Cut the half circle cutouts as shown above.

Copyright C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Drawer Slides

Page 18

If you will be adding drawers to your bar, attach the drawer slides to cleats as shown. Three must have the roller on the right and three must have the roller on the left. The lowest part of the drawer slide must be flush with the bottom of the cleat. The roller section must protrude past the end of the cleats by 3/4" (the thickness of the trim).

Lowest part of drawer slide is flush with bottom of wood

17" 22 3/4" 16 1/4" 5 3/4" 10 1/2"

Attach three cleats with drawer slides to the left side as shown above. Attach two cleats with drawer slides to left divider panel as shown above. Note: The bottom cleat and drawer slide for the left divider is attached to the bottom with pocket holes later. It will then provide a way to attach the left divider to the bottom.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Wine Rack Slides - Assemble Bottom

Page 19

If you will be including wine racks, in your bar, attach the drawer slides to the divider panels as shown. Note: the drawer slides for the wine racks do NOT protrude 3/4" past the edge of the divider panels. This is because the wine rack fronts will be flush with the opening while the drawer fronts will be on the outside of the opening.

14 3/4" 9"

Attach the cleats to the top surface of the bottom plate as shown. Pocket holes sides should be placed 16" from the ends with pocket hole sides facing each other as shown. (These cleats are used for mounting the vertical panels to the bottom surface.)

Attach two cleats to the ends of the bottom surface with pocket hole screws. These cleats are flush to the edges of the bottom.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Vertical Dividers & Kick Panel

Page 20

Attach the vertical dividers to the cleats as shown. Attach the front cleat between the panels as shown with pocket hole screws.

Front cleat Screws on this side.

Turn the assembly upside down and attach the kick panel as shown with pocket hole screws. Note: the pocket hole screws are on the back side of kick panel.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Side Panels and Work Shelf

Page 21

Attach the small shelf to the cleats with finishing nails.

Now, attach the four cleats to the bottom side of the work shelf with pocket hole screws as shown. The end cleats have pocket holes facing out. The middle cleats have the pocket holes facing each other. The pocket hole side of the middle cleats are placed 16" from the ends of the workshelf.

Attach the side panels to the bottom cleats with 1 1/4" screws.

Place the work shelf (with cleats attached) on top of the vertical dividers and secure it to the sides and dividers with 1 1/4" screws through the cleats. Attach the upper front cleat between the dividers with pocket hole screws.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Assemble Front & Side Panels

Page 22

Assemble the three front pieces as shown and secure with pocket hole screws. These screws will be covered with trim later.

Attach the front to the cabinet assembly. Use finishing nails to attach the front to the sides (these nails will be covered with trim later.) From the back side, use 1 1/8" screws through the two front cleats to attach the front to the bottom and the workshelf.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Front and Side Trim

Page 23

Install the lower side and front trim pieces along the bottom with finishing nails as shown.

Install the vertical side and front trim pieces with finishing nails as shown.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Install Upper Horizontal Trim

Page 24

Install the top horizontal trim pieces with finishing nails as shown. This should leave a 1 1/8" space from the top of the cabinet panels so the Bar Top Assembly can fit over it.

Install the decorative frame molding with finishing nails as shown. Position the molding so the frame is centered side to side and slightly higher than centered top to bottom. The gap between the top of the frame and the top horizontal trim should be about 1" more than the gap between the bottom of the frame and the lower horizontal trim. If you center it top to bottom, it may actually look like it is too low because of an optical illusion.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Arrangement of Rear Trim

Page 25

Install the rear trim pieces with finishing nails as shown.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Install Brackets & Measure Side Rail Length

Page 26

Install the Foot Rail Brackets as shown. Your hardware may be diffferent, so be sure to take your own measurements. Position one brachet so the foot sets flat on the floor and measure the distance of the mounting holes from the floor. This should be about 5 1/2". The rest of the brackets must all be the same height. The rear edge of the side brackets should be two inches from the rear vertical trim. The front brackets should be centered side to side between the trim. Note the angle of the mounting screws. You can get the correct angle by trying it on some scrap wood. I recommend you leave these mounting screws slightly loose so the brackets can all sit freely on the floor.

2"

Place a piece of tubing in the front supports as shown and measure the distance "X". (The rear of the cabinet trim to the edge of the tubing.) This should be about nineteen or twenty inches. This will be the length of the tubing for the sides.
X

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Measure Front Rail Length - Assemble Rails

Page 27

Insert a piece of tubing in each side support as shown. Have someone help you hold them so they are parallel to the cabinet and the floor. Measure the distance "Y". This is the length of the front tubing.
Y

Assemble the rails as shown to the left. The end caps go into the rear of the side rail sections. I recommend completely assembling the rail with the screws provided in the kit and tighten all the screws enough so they make visible marks on the brass rail sections. Then, disassemble the rail and drill 3/16" holes in the rail where the screw marks are so the screws will all fit flush with the bracket surfaces, elbow collar surfaces, and at the end caps. Since the end caps are inserted into the ends of the rail sections, their screw heads will be on the outside of the rail section.
Copyright c 2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Assemble the Armrest Molding

Page 28

The first step in assembling the top is to assemble the molding as shown above. Note: This drawing shows the molding in an upside down position.

The photos below show a couple of ways to attach the molding corners.

You can join the corners with pocket holes as shown in Figure 1. You'll need a small pocket hole jig for this. Note: Be sure to place the pocket holes so the screws dont come through the top surface of the molding. Shorter screws may be necessary. Apply glue and secure with pocket hole screws. You can secure the joints with finishing nails by temporarily securing the corners using some scrap plywood with pocket hole screws as shown in Figure 2. Drill two pocket holes on each of two sides of the plywood. Glue some 100 grit sandpaper to the surface of the scrap plywood where it contacts the lip of the molding (This makes it grip tighter.) Apply glue to the molding joint then secure the molding with the scrap plywood to hold the joint firmly together. Turn the assembly over and secure with two finishing nails as shown (Be sure to pre-drill the nail holes so you don't split the wood). Countersink the nails so you can fill with putty later. Then you can remove the scrap plywood. The soffit which will be added later will serve to re-enforce the corner joints.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Drill Pocket Holes in the Top

Page 29

Drill pocket holes on the bottom surface of the top as shown. The two pocket holes along the long edge are used to secure the top to the molding. These two holes will keep the top centered in the molding and still allow for expansion or contraction.

26"

2 1/4" 26"

2 1/4"

The pocket holes along the back and cutout are for mounting the trim. The ones that are not marked may be placed in approximately the position shown.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Rear Trim to the Top

Page 30

Attach the top trim with glue and pocket hole screws as shown above. To ensure the top surfaces of both the Trim and Top are flush, clamp both pieces to a flat surface before inserting pocket hole screws.

Trim Plywood Flat surface

This illustration shows how to clamp a piece of trim to plywood. One clamp holds the trim piece flush to a flat surface and the other clamp holds the plywood flat to the same surface. In this case, the plywood represents the bar top. To keep the pieces flush along the whole piece, you'll want to move the clamps close to each pocket hole as you insert the screws. This will ensure the trim is flush with the top surface.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Risers to the Top

Page 31

10 3/4" Risers 4 1/4" Risers 25" Risers

Apply some glue and arrange the risers on the underside of the top as shown. Attach with either 1 1/8" flathead screws or 1" finishing nails.
4 3/4" Risers

Note: Even though 1 1/8" screws won't penetrate the plywood, they may cause unsightly bumps on the top surface. To avoid this, pre-drill the screw holes in the plywood with a bit slightly larger than the inner diameter of the threaded section of the screws.

Countertop Riser 1" Screw 1 1/2" Screw Trim Soffit

The above illustration shows now the armrest molding, countertop, risers and soffit fit together.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Top to Molding & Attach End Soffit

Page 32

Attach the assembled top to the molding assembly with pocket hole screws as shown. Do not glue the top to the molding.

Attach the end soffit pieces to the molding with 1" flat head screws. Attach the end soffit pieces to the risers with 1 1/8" pan head screws.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Attach Center Soffit

Page 33

Attach the center soffit pieces to the outside edge of the molding with 1" pan head screws. Attach the center soffit pieces to the risers with 1 1/8" pan head screws.

54"

14 3/4"

This should leave an opening that is 54" between the end pieces of soffit and 14 3/4" between the center soffit and the rear trim. This is the size of the outside dimensions of the cabinet top and this opening must fit over the cabinet top.

This drawing shows an upsidedown view of how the cabinet and top are attached. Use two corner brackets on each end and three in the middle. You don't want to actually turn the bar upside down to attach the top, it may damage it. Spacing of the corner brackets is not critical. The cabinet trim is not shown for clarity.

Note: You should predrill the bracket screw holes in the top and use screws that go no more that 1/2" into the wood. Otherwise, the bracket screws may cause unsightly bumps on the top surface of the Bar Top.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Assemble Drawers
Page 34

Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes.
Left Side Right Side

Back

Front

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Assemble the front, back, and right side with 1" long finishing nails as shown in Step 1. Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.

Drawer Slide

Step 4

Step 5

Support the drawer boxes with 1/2" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown in Step 4. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/2" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when installed. Next, attach the drawer slides as shown in Step 5.

Copyright c

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Assemble Wine Racks

Page 35

Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the wine racks as shown.
4 1/2"
Pocket Holes

Step 1

Step 2

Mount the front to the base with pocket hole screws. The base and front are flush on the bottom and the base is centered between the edges of the front.
Back

Two edge dividers are mounted flush with sides of the base. The center one is centered and the other two are 4 1/2" from the edge of the base to the center of the dividers.

Attach the back to the base with finishing nails or screws as you prefer. Attach the drawer slides as shown with the screws that were provided with the drawer slides.
Step 3
Drawer Slide

This completes the assembly of your home bar. Be sure to countersink and fill all finishing nails holes before applying the finish.
2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Copyright c

Cutout Suggestions (1)

Page 36

Left Front Panel

Small Shelf
14"

Divider

Divider Bar Top

Cabnit Side

Cabnit Side

Front Cleat Front Cleat

14" Cleat 14" Cleat

Kick Panel

Workshelf

Center Front Panel Bottom Direction of Grain:

41"

14" Cleat 14" Cleat

14" Cleat 14" Cleat

Wine Rack Bottom

Wine Rack Bottom

14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat 14" Cleat

Right Front Panel

These layout diagrams show how to cut the parts from two pieces of 3/4" oak plywood. Note: Since the Center Front Panel and Small Shelf are almost square, they have an indicator arrow and dimension line to ensure you have the grain oriented properly. The other parts are more obvious since they are not as close to being square. You can cut the small shelf a little larger than it's listed size with a jig saw and true it up with a table saw since it will still have one straight edge.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Cutout Suggestions (2)

Page 37

Center Soffit

End Soffit

End Soffit

Top Drawer Box Front Top Drawer Box Back

Top Drawer Box Side Top Drawer Box Side

Middle Drawer Box Front

Middle Drawer Box Side

Middle Drawer Box Back

Middle Drawer Box Side

Lower Drawer Box Front

Lower Drawer Box Side

Lower Drawer Box Back

Lower Drawer Box Side

Cutout diagrams for the soffit and drawer box parts from 1/2" oak plywood. Cutout diagrams for risers are not given as they may be made from scrap wood.

Drawer Bottom

Drawer Bottom

Drawer Bottom

24"

48"

The drawer bottoms are made from 1/4" hardboard.

Copyright

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

Cutout Suggestions (3)

Page 38

Side Cutout Trim

Rear Countertop Trim

CornerTrim Fluted Trim Fluted Trim

CornerTrim

Side Cutout Trim

Rear Countertop Trim

Rear Top Horizontal Trim Raer Bottom Horizontal Trim Vertical Divider Trim

Back Corner Trim Back Corner Trim Vertical Divider Trim

Front Bottom Trim Front Top Trim

Bottom Deco trim Side Deco trim

CornerTrim CornerTrim
Side Deco trim

Top Deco trim

Wine Rack Side

Wine Rack Side

Side Trim Drawer Divider Trim Drawer Divider Trim

Side Trim

Side Trim Center Cutout Trim

Side Corner Trim Side Corner Trim

Side Trim

Wine Rack Front

Wine Rack Front

4"

Top Drawer Front Middle Drawer Front Lower Drawer Front

Top Half

Lower Drawer Front

Bottom Half

Wine Rack Divider Wine Rack Divider Wine Rack Divider

Wine Rack Divider Wine Rack Divider

6"

Wine Rack Side

Wine Rack Back

Wine Rack Back

Cutout diagrams for the parts that are made from solid oak.

If you're making two wine racks, you'll still need one more wine rack side and divider. Hopefully, you'll have some small pieces of oak lying around to make them from. Since these are inside parts, you could make them from some other material rather than buy an extra piece of oak. If so, you probably would want to make the rest of the inside wine rack parts from the same material too.
Copyright
C

2005 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio