NORO BIAS LACE SCARF

By Susan Ashcroft
Knitting on the bias is not much more difficult than knitting straight and produces a pleasing effect, particularly with long-striping yarns such as those made by Noro. This is easy, but effective my favourite type of knit and could be tackled by a patient novice knitter, but should also be fun for more advanced knitters. Its also addictive, but lll let you decide if thats good or bad! Bias knitting is easier to do than to explain, so dont be put off by the lengthy explanations. Thanks to PineSlayerDee there is also a handy chart. There are no purl stitches. Notes and tips are given on page 2. A photo gallery is on page 6. For the actual pattern, you only need to print pages 4 and 5. Suggested yarns and amounts: In sock yarn this is more of a fashion accessory than a keep-warm scarf. In aran weight, its a warm snuggly scarf, but still nice and light. Sock yarn (Silk Garden sock or Kureyon sock) one 100g skein (300 400m) (4 4.5 mm/ US 6-7 needles). Size: at least 15 x 150 cm /6 x 5. Aran weight (Silk Garden) 50g skeins 2 or 3 skeins (200 or 300m) 6mm/US 10 needles. Size: approx. 17 x 120 or 180 cm Approx. 6.5 x 4 or 6.

Noro Kureyon sock yarn Noro Silk Garden

Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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Notes and tips: Gauge: For this pattern, gauge isnt particularly critical you can decide on the width as you go. You can use a needle size one size larger than you would use to work the yarn in stockinette stitch. Bias knitting technique: with bias knitting you basically work 3 sections Section A increases at each side on the RS rows until you reach the desired width. Section B works up straight by increasing at the beginning and decreasing at the end of the RS rows. Section C decreases on both edges of the RS to make the end square. Noro colour and knots: Noro colours are fantastic, but knots are not. I recommend that you wind your yarn before you start knitting to see if there are any knots that way you wont get any nasty surprises while you are knitting (in my Silk Garden there was a knot which would have appeared after about 10 rows. I simply cut that piece off and started after that.) With bias knitting the colour you start and finish with forms a larger block, so you might like to think about which colours you would like at the ends. I choose the one I like best as the one to start with because you can always stop early if you dont like the last colour. How much will you need to work Section C ? some people tried weighing, it works as a rough guide, but is not 100% reliable. I tend to go more by colour and make sure I leave more than enough to finish and then the rest goes in the basket for the scrap blanket Ill make one day. Adapting the pattern: If you wish to adapt the pattern, use an even number of stitches (youll have 2 edge stitches on either side to provide stability to the knit). Adapting will obviously affect your yarn requirements. I think it would make a nice wrap. Split stitch marker: Use it to mark the right side and to help you keep track and check you are not making mistakes. I count the stitches about every 10 rows and move the marker up to the row I have just counted. That way if I do make a mistake I know how far back I need to unpick. Joining the yarn: To keep a smooth edge join the yarn after two stitches or two stitches from the end, and weave in the ends. Or you can splice. Blocking tip (if you need to block): Use a striped or waffle-textured towel (this way you dont have to keep measuring the width). For a photo and more tips, you can refer to the knitting tips on my blog: [email protected].

Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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Abbreviations: k kfb yo sl K2tog psso RS WS Note: knit knit into the front and the back of the stitch (makes 1 new stitch) yarn over needle slip stitch (knitwise) knit 2 together (knitwise) pass slipped stitch over right side wrong side RS/WS is just for the purposes of the knitting the scarf is reversible (on the RS you will have 3 ridges, on the wrong side 2).

Sock yarn version You will need a split stitch marker. uses one 100g skein Needle size 4.25mm (or 4 or 4.5mm) US sizes 6 or 7 One skein makes long, narrow scarf (approx. 15 x 150 cm 6 x 5- min ). Long enough to wrap around twice or to fold in half and then pull through the loop. Kureyon sock will give you a longer version as it has much more yardage.

Aran weight version uses 2 or 3 x 50g skeins Needle size: 6mm or US 10 This makes a scarf which is approx. 17cm 6.5 wide. With Silk Garden 2 skeins will make a short scarf which can tie once (approx. 120cm/47), but youll need 3 skeins if you want a longer version that can wrap around (approx. 170 cm or 68").

If you have any questions or comments, please do not hesitate to contact me on ravelry or via my blog stitchnerd.blogspot.com. Your feedback is greatly appreciated. And dont forget to link to the pattern on ravelry!

Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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Section A (increasing to the desired width in a triangle shape these rows are labeled A1, A2, etc. Setting up: Cast on 2 stitches. Row Row Row Row Row Row A1 (RS): kfb, k1 (3 stitches). A2 (WS): kfb, k2 (4 stitches). A3: k1, kfb, kfb, k1 (6 stitches). A4 and all further even rows knit all stitches. A5: k1, kfb, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1 (8 stitches). A7: k1, kfb, * yo, k2tog* repeat to last 2 stitches, then yo and k2 (10 stitches)

Now, mark the RS with your stitch marker. On the WS rows knit all the stitches. On the RS you will increase on the RH and LH edges of the scarf (i.e. 2 stitches on each RS row check your stitch counts to be sure you are doing this). 6-row lace pattern: Row A9 (RS) : k1, kfb, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1 (12 stitches). Row A10 (WS): knit all stitches. Row A11: repeat row A9 (check that your stitch numbers are increasing by 2). Row A12: knit all stitches. Row A13: k1, kfb, * yo, k2tog* repeat to last 2 stitches, then yo and k2. Row A14: knit all stitches. Repeat rows A9 A14 until you have reached the desired width (see section B). You dont really need to count the rows, you can read the knitting when you can count 3 ridges on the RS, then you work the lace row (here A13). You will work the whole scarf in the 6-row lace pattern (2 RS rows of knit stitches, 1 RS row of lace, all WS rows, knit all stitches). In sections B and C you can start to increase or decrease on any RS row, just be sure to keep the 6-row pattern going. For ease of understanding, I have written it as if you will always start on Row 1 but if you start on row 3 thats no problem, just work 3 and 5 and then go back to 1. Section B (working the straight section)- these rows are labeled B1,B3, etc. Turn the knitting with the right side facing so that the cast on stitches are in the bottom RH corner and the stitches on the needle are at a 45 degree angle. Measure across the bottom edge for the width you want. I worked to 44 stitches for sock yarn and 36 for the aran weight. In Section B, on the RS you increase at the beginning of the work and decrease at the end, and you continue to knit all stitches on the WS this will produce a straight section.

Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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Section B (cont.)

Row Row Row Row

B1: k1, kfb, k to last 3 stitches, sl 1, k1, psso, k1. B2 and all even rows (WS): knit all stitches B3: repeat row B1 (check that your stitch numbers are staying the same). B5: k1, kfb, * yo, k2tog* repeat to last 4 stitches, then yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1.

Repeat these rows until it is time to shape the top. Section C (shaping the top triangle of the scarf) these rows are labeled C1, C3, etc. When the scarf is the length you want and/or when you are nearly at the end of the skein (allowing enough to work the end triangle to match Section A) start to work Section C. For this section on the RS you will decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row and continue to decrease 1 stitch at the other end of the row. On the WS you will continue to knit all stitches. This will square off the end. Row C1: k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k to last 3 stitches, sl 1, k1, psso, k1 . Row C2 and all even rows (WS): knit all stitches Row C3: repeat row C1 (check that your stitch numbers are decreasing by 2). Row C5: lace row decreases as described below. Lace row decreases: As you decrease, you should have an even number of stitches, but I have included instructions for an odd number just in case. Simply start the row and then follow the instructions for the end depending on how many stitches you have when you get there. Lace row: k1, sl 1, k1 psso, * yo, k2tog* - repeat * to * until you have either 3 or 4 stitches left on the LH needle (if you have 5 or more, then you need to work more *yo, k2tog* to get down to 3 or 4 stitches). Then decrease as follows: If you have 3 stitches: sl 1, k1, psso, k1. If you have 4 stitches: yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1. Continue to work in the 6-row lace pattern and to decrease on right side LH and RH edges on RS until you have 4 stitches left after a WS row, then: K1, sl1, k2tog, psso (on the RS). Turn work. Bind off. Weave in the ends. Block if you think its necessary with Silk Garden sock, Kureyon, sock or Silk Garden it may not be. Wear with great style or give to a lucky recipient. Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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Gallery (all photos are credited to ravelry usernames)

francea robertd

sheepnut

stitchnerd

willtravel4yarn gmaruns

stitchnerd

unitwo

angeluna stampingjoan

Noro bias lace scarf Susan Ashcroft - for personal, non-commercial use only.

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