SGSTesting SoftlinesandHardlines

APPAREL
TESTING MANUAL

May 18, 2006

May 18, 2006

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Global Textile Services

Page

Manual Revision Log . 3

Contacts... 5

Introduction.. 7

Sample Requirements.... 8

U. S. Government Regulations. 9

Testing Procedures.. 10

ANCHOR BLUE Test Requirements....... 11

Approved SGS Laboratories 12

Laboratory Test Request Form. 16

Sample Test Report ... 17

Performance Standards Index.. 21

ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards 22

ANCHOR BLUE Pricing.. 67

May 18, 2006

3

MANUAL REVISION LOG

DATE: Prepared/Revised by: Revised Page/Section:

1
st
COPY: December, 2005 Karen McGuire

Revision 1: January 3, 2006 Karen McGuire Pages 20 and 22: shrinkage requirement
for Pique changed to 7% X 5%.

Revision 2: January 31, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 8: In SGS Responsibility, The email
address for Anchor Blues Contact
person was corrected.
On all standards: The test method for sequins
and appliqus has been corrected to 16 CFR
1500.52.
Fabric Strength test method on all Knit
Standards has been changed to ASTM D 3786.
Page 38-39: test methods and requirements were
added to cover woven lining in a knit garment.
Page 44: shrinkage requirement for Pique
changed to 7% X 5%.

Revision 3: March 29, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 4: Added Janet Hughes to Anchor Blue
contact information.
Page 6: Under fabric requirements: changed
from one yard of fabric to two yards of one
color and one yard of each addition color.
Under garment requirements we have added:
Colorfastness testing to be conducted on one
color only.
Page 8: Under SGS responsibilities, added
Janet Hughes information for receipt of all
test reports via email.

Revision 4: May 18, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 6: Added Kim Richardson to SGS
Contact list.
Page 8: Under Fabric Sample Requirements
Added For styles that will be colorblocked
Or have contrasting trim, each combo will be
sewn together including its contrasting trim.
Page 9: Added to vendor responsibilities
Failed samples will be returned to Anchor
Blue at the vendors expense.
Added to SGS responsibilities Failed reports
and sample(s) are to be returned at once.
Passing reports and sample(s) will be returned
twice a month.

May 18, 2006

4
MANUAL REVISION LOG

Revision 4: May 18, 2006 (continued) Karen McGuire Page 12: Updated SGS lab list.

May 18, 2006

5

CONTACTS

ANCHOR BLUE

Ms. Vickie Nellor
VP of Production / Sourcing
2501 E, Guasti Road
Ontario, CA 91761
Telephone: 909-605-5253
Fax: 909-605-5556
Email: [email protected]

Ms. Janet Hughes
Vendor Compliance Manager
Telephone: 909-605-5130

SGS USTC

US Key Account Manager
Mr. Joel Cass
8385 White Oak Avenue
Rancho Cucamongo
CA 91730
Telephone: 714-536-2271
Cell: 323-350-0466

Account Coordinator
Ms. Nicole Effenberger
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Fax: 973-575-8271

May 18, 2006

6

CONTACTS (continued)

SGS USTC

US Key Account Manager:
Kimberly Richardson
Rancho Cucamonga
CA 91730
Telephone: 909-483-0250
Cell: 714-815-3955

US Technical Support
Ms Karen McGuire
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Cell: 860-466-9495
Fax: 973-575-8271

May 18, 2006

7

QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Performance testing serves to assure product durability, safety, and compliance with government regulations,
consumer satisfaction and reduced customer returns.

These Standard Operating Procedures and Performance Standards have been developed by SGS as a
combined result of testing experience, participation in national standards organizations, and input from
ANCHOR BLUE and industry leaders around the world.

The Performance Standards are listed by major merchandise category, and define specific performance
parameters. These standards are further detailed according to woven or knit construction, by fiber, by type of
color application, and by finishing technique. Each factor will influence performance requirements and
tolerances.

ANCHOR BLUE requires that all merchandise meet or exceed the outlined performance requirements and
meet guideline care instructions. Tests will be conducted at SGS laboratories, and a SGS laboratory report
with a favorable rating must be attained prior to production and shippi ng of merchandise.

All reports will be reviewed and evaluated by ANCHOR BLUES Quality Assurance Division.

This manual applies to ANCHOR BLUE and all its subsidiaries and divisions and is not to be reproduced, in
part or in whole, without written permission from ANCHOR BLUE and SGS.

ASTM...The American Society for Testing and Materials
www.astm.org

AATCCThe American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
www.aatcc.org

CPSCConsumer Product Safety Commission
www.cpsc.gov

FTCFederal Trade Commission
www.ftc.gov

CFR..Code of Federal Regulations
Can be found on the CPSC website www.cpsc.gov or www.access.gpo.gov

May 18, 2006

8

SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS

Fabric Sample Requirements:
Two yards of one color and one yard of each additional color.
All colorfastness testing must be conducted on bulk production colors.
For styles that will be colorblocked or have contrasting trim each combo will be sewn together
including the contrasting trim.
To avoid delays, duplication of tests and to reduce cost, all colors must be submitted at the same time.

Garment Sample Requirements:
Garments that are colorblocked or have decorative trims, such as appliqus, ribbons, bows, etc. require three
samples (one sample to be used as a control).
Garments that are solid or an overall pattern require only two samples. The lab may cut a swatch from the
garment to be used as the control.
Garments must contain all accessories (buttons, zippers, trims, interlining, etc.) that will be used in bulk
production. The actual manufacturer must make the sample on production machinery.
Component testing (buttons snaps zippers, etc.) require five (5) samples, mock-ups along with the garments
are permissible.
In garment stage, testing will be conducted on one color only.

May 18, 2006

9

U. S. GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS

In addition, all merchandise sold to ANCHOR BLUE, must meet the provisions of all U.S. Federal, State and Local
Regulations. These include, but are not limited to:

Code of Federal Regulations Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles

FTC Trade Regulation Rule for Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act

FTC Guides for the Feather and Down Products Industry

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Fur Products Labeling Act

CPSC Rules and Regulations

Suppliers must provide a continuing guarantee of compliance or test results assuring that requirements of all U.S.
Federal, State and Local Regulations are met.

May 18, 2006

10

TESTING PROCEDURES

ANCHOR BLUE Quality Assurance Responsibility

Provide vendor with a copy of ANCHOR BLUE Quality Assurance Manual.
Identify the styles to be tested and determine the specific tests to be conducted.
Propose Care Label.
Fill out SGS Laboratory Test Request form.
Evaluate all laboratory reports.

Vendor Responsibility

Timely sample submission to the local SGS Laboratory, with a copy of the completed SGS Test Request
Form.
All Performance Standards must be met before care labels are ordered. If care labels are ordered prior to
obtaining passing test results are received and new care labels are required, vendor will be responsible to
order new labels at his own expense.
Only test reports from SGS will be accepted.
Failed samples will be returned to Anchor Blue at the vendors expense.
Payment to laboratory for all testing.

SGS Testing Laboratory Responsibility

Distribute ANCHOR BLUE Quality Assurance manual to approved SGS Laboratories
Conduct tests as requested and evaluate test results as:
a) M Meets ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
b) F Fails to meet ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
Report is to include results, requirements, pass/fail and conclusion.
Care label is to be verified/corrected
Reports are to be issued within five (5) business days via email or fax to:
a) Vendor (with invoice)
b) ANCHOR BLUE, Vendor Compliance Manager: [email protected].
A hard copy of the report and sample (s) are to be sent to ANCHOR BLUES office. The tested sample(s)
and control(s) must be identified with the Report # and Style #.
a) Failed reports and sample (s) are to be returned at once.
b) Passing reports and sample (s) will be returned twice a month.

May 18, 2006

11

ANCHOR BLUE APPAREL TEST REQUIREMENTS

PACKAGE TEST LIST
Production
Fabric Testing
Production
Garment
Testing
Mandatory Tests

Dimensional Stability in Laundering (3 cycles)
or Dry Cleaning (1 cycle)
X X
Appearance after Laundering or Dry cleaning X X
Skewing (Knits Only) X
Colorfastness to Laundering or DC (Accelerated) X
Colorfastness to Laundering or DC (Actual)
Staining evaluated after 1 wash, shade change evaluated
after 3 washes / 1 DC
X
Colorfastness to Crocking X
Colorfastness to Light (Silk, Swimwear and Activewear) X
Colorfastness to Perspiration (Activewear, Linings) X
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach X
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach X
Fabric Weight X
Thread Count X
Seam Strength X
Component Strength (Snaps, Zippers, Buttons) X
Additional Tests

Flammability (Suspect fabrics only) X
Fiber Composition (Two or more fibers) X
Yarn Size X
Bursting Strength (Knits) X
Tensile Strength (Woven) X
Tear Strength X
Garment Weight (Sweaters Only) X
Water Resistance (Outerwear) X
Water Repellency (Outerwear Only) X
Colorfastness to Sea Water (Swimwear Only) X
Colorfastness to Pool Water (Swimwear Only) X

May 18, 2006

12
APPROVED SGS TEXTILE LABORATORIES

SGS India Gurgaon (New Delhi) SGS India Chennai (Madras)
SGS India Ltd.
250 Udyog Vihar,P
Phase IV
Gurgaon 122015
INDIA
Phone:
91(124)2399990-98
Telefax:
91 124 2399766
CONTACTS: Rahul Garg/Charan Singh
E Mail : [email protected]/[email protected]
SGS Lab House
No 21, New Street, Kottur
Chennai 600 085
INDIA
Phone:
(91-44) 447.67.61(Textile)
(91-44) 447.09.15 (Textile)
Telefax :
(91-44) 447.03.17 (Textile)
CONTACT: Anitha Jeyeraj
SGS India Thane (Bombay) SGS India - Tirupur
SGS India Ltd.
A-77 Main Road #16
Wagle Industrial Estate
Thane 400 604 Mumbai
INDIA
Phone:
(91-22) 582.07.77 (91-22) 582.35.38
Telefax:(91-22) 580.00.21
CONTACT: Biplab Chakraborty
E Mail : [email protected]
350-A Bagyalakshmi Complex
2
nd
Floor,Avinashi Road
Tirupur 641602
INDIA
Phone:
(91-421) 2204091
Telefax:
(91-421) 220 4092
CONTACT: P M Reddy
E Mail :[email protected]
SGS India Bangalore Sample Collection Center: Ludhiana,
India
SGS India Pvt Ltd.
No. 23, Siva Arcade, 29th Main, 1
st
Stage,
BTM Layout
Bangalore 560 076
INDIA
Phone:
(91-80) 26789025 - 28
Telefax:
(91-80) 26787820
CONTACT: Mr. Subrata Das
SGS
405, Savitri Complex, Dholewal
Chowk, GT Road, Ludhiana
INDIA
Phone:
91-161-2537950/51
CONTACT: Deepak Sharma
Sample Collection Center:
Ahmedabad, India
Sample Collection Center: Kolkata,
India
SGS
410,Sampada,Mithakali Six Roads
Navrangpura,Ahmedabad
INDIA
Phone:
91-079-5842525/772
CONTACT: Manoj Pathak
SGS
Post office 2330,Delta House 4
Govt place north Kolkatta
INDIA
Phone:
91-33-24583392
CONTACT: Manoranjan Jena

May 18, 2006

13
Sample Collection Center: Delhi,
India
Sample Collection Center : Panipat,
India
SGS
B-283,Ground Floor
Okhla Industrial Area ,Phase 1
New Delhi
INDIA
Phone:
9899101279
CONTACT: Mr Shiam
Email :[email protected]
SGS
102,Prakash Guest House
GT Road,Panipat
INDIA
Phone:
091-180-2632837/5987
CONTACT: Mr Pratap
SGS Turkey SGS Sri Lanka
Abide-i Hurriyet cad. Gecit Sok. No:10 Kat:2
34381 Sisli/ Istanbul Turkey
Phone:
90 212 225 00 34
Telefax:
90 212 296 47 82
CONTACTS: Nadin Hacerestunc (x211, 212)
Nazli Sahin (x219)
Nazli. [email protected]
SGS Lanka (Pvt) Ltd.
140, Vauxhall Street
Colombo 2
SRI LANKA
Phone: 2300890/1
Telefax: 2300890/1
CONTACTS:
Roshan Peries
Sumathy Rajasingham
Email: Sumathy.rajasingham
SGS Pakistan Lahore SGS Pakistan - Karachi
SGS Pakistan (Private) Limited
6 D, Upper Mall, Canal Bank
Lahore
PAKISTAN
Phone:
92-42-5716833-6
Telefax:
92-42-571837
CONTACT: Sabbara Zafar
22/D Block 6, Pechs - P.O. Box 12538
Karachi 75400
PAKISTAN
Phone:
(92-21) 454.02.60-65/ (92-21) 454.32.35
(92-21) 454.18.79
Telefax:
(92-21) 454.88.24/ (92-21) 452.72.49
CONTACT: Abdul Razzak Lakhani
SGS China (Shanghai) SGS Hong Kong
SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services Co., Ltd.
1/F, 3rd Building
No. 889 Yishan Road
Shanghai 200233
CHINA
Phone:
(86-21) 54 64 45 50
Telefax:
(86-21) 64.95.17.17
(86-21) 64.95.87.63 (Textile Lab)
CONTACT: Ms. Carol Chen
SGS Hong Kong Limited
5/F - 8/F, Metropole Square
2 On Yiu Street, Siu Lek Yuen
Shatin, Hong Kong
Phone:
(852) 23.34.44.81
(852) 23.64.22.72 (Lab)
Telefax:
(852) 23342461
(852) 27643276(Lab)
CONTACT: Ms. Catherine Lung

May 18, 2006

14
SGS China (Changzhou) SGS China (Guangzhou)
SGS- CSTC
Room 203 No. 1 Punan Road
Changzhou, Jiangsu,
CHINA 213001
Phone:
0086-519-6903383/6903385
Telefax:
0086-519-6903381
CONTACT: Carol Chen
SGS-CSTC
198 KEZHU Road, SCIENTECH Park Guangzhou
Economic & Technology Development District,
Guangzhou, Guangdong, CHINA 510663
Phone:
(86-20) 8215 5656
Telefax:
(86-20) 8207 5165
CONTACT: Amos Lin
SGS Taiwan SGS Singapore
SGS Taiwan Limited
136-1, Wu Kung Road
Wuku Industrial Zone
P.O. Box 312
Taipei County 248 TAIWAN
Phone: (886-2) 22.99.39.39/ (886-2) 22.99.29.11
Telefax:
(886-2) 22.99.32.59
(886-2) 22.99.32.27 (Textile Lab.)
CONTACT: Cindy Chen
SGS Testing & Control Services Singapore PTE LTD
26 Ayer Rajah Crescent #03-07
Ayer Rajah Industrial Estate
Singapore 139944
SINGAPORE
Phone:
(65) 6778.15.50
Telefax:
(65) 6779.05.49
CONTACT: Ms YC Tham
SGS Thailand SGS Japan
SGS (Thailand) Limited
41/23 Soi Rama III 59
Rama III Road, Chongnonsee
Yannawa, Bangkok 10120 THAILAND
Phone:
(66-2) 294.74.85-9/ (66-2) 683.05.41-7
Telefax:
(66-2) 294.78.84
(66-2) 683.07.58
CONTACT: Mali Jattawong
Japan Spinners Inspection Foundation
18 15, Uemachi 1- Chome
Chou-Ku
Osaka 540-0005, Japan
Phone:
81-6-6762-5885
81-6-6762-5905 (Direct)
Contact:
Mr. Yukimasa Yasuda
Ikuko Watanabe
SGS Korea SGS Philippines
SGS Korea Co., Ltd.
11th & 12th floors, ChungRyong Building
98-38 GalWal-dong, Yongsan-Ku
Seoul
KOREA (REPUBLIC OF)
Phone:
(82-2) 709.45.42 M
Telefax: (82-2) 793.81.42
CONTACT: Kate Lee and Jason Han
Email: [email protected] and [email protected]
SGS Philippines
2
nd
Floor Alegria Bldg.
2229 Chino Roces Avenue
PO Box 2174 MCPO 1261
Makati City, Manila, Philippines
Phone:
(0632) 8175656
Telefax:
(0632) 7502946
CONTACT: Leah Jaboli

May 18, 2006

15
SGS USA - California SGS Bangladesh
SGS U.S. Testing Company Inc.
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
USA
Phone:
(909) 483-0250
Telefax:
(909) 483-0336
CONTACT: Mr. Salman Ehsan
Email [email protected]
SGS Bangladesh
7
th
Floor Noor Tower
1/f Free School Street
73 Sonargaon Road
Dhaka 1205 BANGLADESH
Phone:
880 2 967 6490
Telefax 880 2 967 6495
CONTACT: Yeasmin Akhter
SGS USA New Jersey SGS United Kingdom
Fairfield, NJ 07004
USA
Phone:
(973) 575-5252
Telefax:
(973) 575-1193
CONTACT: Mr. Greg Kolbeck
Oakwood House
City Road
Bradford, West Yorkshire
BD8 8JY
UNITED KINGDOM
Phone: 44 1274 760400
Telefax: 44 1274 760418
CONTACTS: Amanda Howard and Ian Strudwick
[email protected]
SGS Guatemala SGS Mauritius
Textile Laboratory, SGS de Guatemala S.A.
42 calle 23-00 zona 12 Bodega No. 3
01012 Guatemala, C.A.
Guatemala
Phone:
502-2470-3394
Telefax:
502-2470-3396
CONTACT: Mr. Carlos Juarez
Email: [email protected] or
[email protected]
SGS House
Valentina
Phoenix
Mauritius
Phone: (230) 696 8808
Telefax: (230) 696 7088
CONTACT: Mr. Zikriya Bolaky
Aktar Emrith
CC: [email protected]
SGS Dubai, UAE SGS Egypt
SGS Gulf Ltd.
Office Block 6
Ras Al Khor Complex
Al Awir, PO Box 12993
Dubai, UAE
Phone: 04 289 62 82
Telefax: 04 289 62 92 and 04 289 62 93
CONTACT: Anand Nair
Sakkara Road, Osman Bridge
1 Osman M
Osman Street
Elharania
Elharam
Giza, Egypt
Phone: 202 384 2811
Telefax: 202 382 3537
CONTACT: Osama Samieh
NOTES:
Sri Lanka testing will be conducted in Chennai, India and outsourced.
Mexico testing will be conducted in Guatemala.

May 18, 2006

16

No:
ANCHOR BLUE TEST REQUEST FORM FOR APPAREL

SGS U.S. Testing Company Inc. / 291 Fairfield Avenue / Fairfield, NJ 07004
(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com
DIVISION:

CONTACT PERSON:

VENDOR:

EMAIL:
ADDRESS:

PHONE: FAX:
REPORTS TO:

SAMPLE DESCRIPTION:

END USE:
COLOR: SUPPLIER #:
STYLE #: PO# / REF#:
MFG: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
FIBER CONTENT: WEIGHT:
FABRIC: CONSTRUCTION:
COUNT:
VENDOR PROPOSED CARE INSTRUCTION: (Must be filled in below in order for testing to start)

Package Test: (double click on box, select check)

Fabric Package
Garment Package
Additional Colors

Retest: Previous Report Number: _____________________ Date: _________________

Additional Tests (Please specify below):
Bursting Strength
Tensile Strength
Colorfastness To Sea Water
Colorfastness To Pool Water

Water Resistance
Water Repellency
Garment Weight
Yarn Size
Tear Strength

SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:

DATE:

NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to ANCHOR BLUE

Service Required: Regular (5 days) Express (3 days) Return Residual Sample

May 18, 2006

17

Apparel Test Report No:______________________ Date:_____________ Page 1 of 4

OVERALL RATING
PASS
FAIL

ANCHOR BLUE
VENDOR NAME :
SAMPLE
DESCRIPTION :

END USE:
CONTACT:
COLOR :
FABRIC/GARMENT
STYLE :
ORDER:
ANCHOR BLUE
CONTACT :
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
FIBRE CONTENT : WEIGHT :
SAMPLE RECEIVING
DATE :
TEST PERFORMING DATE :
RETEST PREVIOUS REPORT NO.
Applicants Submitted
Care Instruction:
SGS Recommended
Care Instruction :

TEST PASS FAIL REMARKS
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING
APPEARANCE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION
COLOUR FASTNESS TO CROCKING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH
COLOUR FASTNESS TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH
COLOUR FASTNESS TO LIGHT
FABRIC WEIGHT
TENSILE STRENGTH
TEARING STRENGTH
FLAMMABILITY
FIBRE CONTENT
PASS = Meets ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
FAIL = Fails to meet ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standard

CONCLUSION:

Signed for and on behalf of
SGS.

May 18, 2006

18


Test Results:

REQUIREMENT
(A) (B)

DIMENSIONAL CHANGES AFTER 3
rd
WASHING
(AATCC 135-2001 Test No. (1)IIIA(ii); Machine wash at 105 degree F with 4lb dummy loading, normal
cycle, tumble dry delicate & warm iron)

WARP/LENGTH (%)
WEFT/WIDTH (%)

APPEARANCE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING

Observation on washed sample (A) & (B) :

(Ref. AATCC 61-2001 Test No. 2A, 45 mins, Mechanical wash at 80 degree F in 0.15% 1993 Standard
Reference detergent WOB solution with 50 steel balls)

COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON POLYESTER
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL

(AATCC 15:2002)

COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL

May 18, 2006

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Apparel Test Report No:____________________ Date:_______________ Page 3 of 4

(A) (B) REQUIREMENT

(AATCC 8:2001)

DRY
WET
(AATCC TS 001)

COLOUR CHANGE

(AATCC TS 001)

COLOUR CHANGE

(AATCC 16:1998 Option E; Xenon-Arc Lamp)

COLOUR CHANGE
(After 20 Fading Unit)

TENSILE STRENGTH
(ASTM D5034-1995(2001); CRE 1 grab)

WARP (LB)
WEFT (LB)

TEARING STRENGTH
(ASTM D1424-1996-Elmendorf)

WARP YARNS TORN (LB)
WEFT YARNS TORN (LB)

FABRIC WEIGHT PER UNIT AREA
(ASTM D3776-1996; Option C)

(oz/sq.yd.)
(g/sq.m.)

FIBRE CONTENT
(AATCC 20-2002)

May 18, 2006

20


FLAMMABILITY
The apparatus and methods of testing were those described in 16 CFR Part 1610 Standard for the
Flammability of Clothing Textiles (CS-191-53)

Fabric Surface :
Preliminary Testing : Length Width

Test sample direction performance :

Original State After Drycleaning & Washing *
Burn Code Burn Code

(1) (1)
(2) (2)
Sample (3) (3)
(4) (4)
(A) (5) (5)
(6) (6)
(7) (7)
(8) (8)
(9) (9)
(10) (10)

Flammability Classification : Class Requirement : Class 1 (Pass)

Remarks : Class 1 - Normal Flammability
Textiles meeting these requirements are generally accepted by the trade as
having no unusual burning characteristics.

DNI = Did not ignite

* Drycleaning / Washing procedure is according to 16 CFR 1610:4(d) (e).

*** End of Report ***

May 18, 2006

21

APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARDS INDEX

Standard 1 Knit Garments - 100% Cotton 22
(Excluding Sleepwear, Swimwear, Outerwear)

Standard 2 Knit Garments - Cotton & Synthetic Blends 24
(Excluding Sleepwear, Swimwear, Outerwear)

Standard 3 Woven Garments - Tops, Blouses, Shirts, Dresses 27
Cotton, Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic (Excluding Denim)

Standard 4 Woven Garments Bottoms & Skirts 31
(Excluding Denim & Swimwear)

Standard 5 Woven Garments - Silk, Linen, Wool, Rayon 34

Standard 6 Woven Garments - Corduroy, Velvet, Velveteen 37

Standard 7 Woven Garments - Denim, Madras, Chambray, Indigo Dyed 40

Standard 8 Woven Garments - Blazers, Lined 43

Standard 9 Outerwear - Knit 46

Standard 10 Outerwear - Woven 49
(Excluding Leather/Suede)

Standard 11 Sleepwear & Lingerie Knit 52

Standard 12 Sleepwear & Lingerie - Woven 55

Standard 13 Sweaters 58

Standard 14 Swimwear Knit 61

Standard 15 Swimwear - Woven 64

May 18, 2006

22

KNIT GARMENTS - 100% COTTON STANDARD #1
Excluding Sleepwear, Swimwear, Outerwear
Guideline Care Instructions: Machine Wash Cold, Tumble Dry Low
TEST PERFORMED REQUIREMENT REGULATION OR TEST METHOD
FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, wales &
courses
As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3887
Weight As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3776
Yarn Size As Specified (+/- 10%) ASTM D1059
Fiber Content
Single Fiber

No Tolerance

FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
FLAMMABILITY Class 1 Normal Title16 CFR 1610 or ASTM D1230

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Jersey, Interlock 5 X 5
Pique 7 X 5
Ribs, Spandex 7 X 7
Thermal 8 X 7
SKEWING 5% AATCC 179

COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Activewear Step 4 40 hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 hours

May 18, 2006

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KNIT GARMENTS 100% COTTON STANDARD #1

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Bursting Strength 45 psi ASTM D3786
Seam Strength 35 lb. ASTM D3787
Snap Strength Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Zipper Strength Tension
Test
15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Sequin & Appliqu Strength
Tension Test
15 lb (for 10 seconds) 16 CFR 1500.52
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration #
(RN#)
FTC Textile Fiber Products ID Act
GENERAL FABRIC REQUIREMENTS VISUAL
No flaws, holes or runs
No barre
No missed or dropped stitches
No exposed yarn ends or knots on face of fabric

GENERAL GARMENT REQUIREMENTS VISUAL
All components must be compatible with no differential
shrinkage
No noticeable puckering or twisting of fabric or seams
No skewing over 5%

DURABILITY VISUAL
Garments must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable wear and cleaning.

No fraying or raveling of buttonholes, trims or seams
No deterioration or delamination of fusible interfacing or
appliqus
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting
of fabric
No deterioration of elastic
No bleeding or fraying of drawstring
No chipping, discoloration, rusting or pitting of snaps or
hardware

May 18, 2006

24
KNIT GARMENTS 100% COTTON STANDARD #1

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION VISUAL
SEAM ALLOWANCE/TYPE Must be appropriate for end use and styling of garment as
indicated on purchase order
GARMENT All seams must be uniform and clean finished
Garment must be cut on grain
Topstitching must be uniform and required tension
No loose or broken stitches
No needle cutting and no repair sews

BAR TACKS/RIVETS At all stress areas
SNAPS/BUTTONS/HARDWARE Must be securely attached
Lead content of painted surfaces must not exceed 0.06% by
weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments End must be finished

May 18, 2006

25

KNIT GARMENTS - COTTON & SYNTHETIC BLENDS STANDARD #2
Excluding Sleepwear, Swimwear, Outerwear
FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, wales & courses As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3887
Fiber Content
Blends

3% Tolerance



Jersey, Interlock 5 X 5
Pique 7 X 5
Ribs, Spandex 5 X 7
Thermal 7 X 7
Fleece, French Terry, Velour 6 X 5

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Crocking AATCC 8
Staining Grade 3
Activewear Step 4 40 Hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours

May 18, 2006

26
KNIT GARMENTS COTTON & SYNTHETIC BLENDS STANDARD #2

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Zipper Strength Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
15 lb (for 10 seconds 16 CFR 1500.52
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
(RN#)

No barre

shrinkage
No skewing over 5%
DURABILITY VISUAL

appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

27
KNIT GARMENTS COTTON & SYNTHETIC BLENDS STANDARD #2


weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS

May 18, 2006

28

WOVEN GARMENTS - TOPS, BLOUSES, SHIRTS, DRESSES STANDARD #3
COTTON, POLYESTER, NYLON, ACRYLIC (EXCLUDING DENIM)

FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, wales & filling As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3775
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



100% Cotton 4 X 4
Synthetic Blends 3 X 3

GARMENT APPEARANCE
Testing Required Only For Wrinkle Free or Durable Press Finishes
Fabric Smoothness
Cotton Resin Treated
Synthetics and Blends

Grade 3.5
Grade 4
AATCC 124
Seam Smoothness Grade 3 AATCC 88B
Crease Retention

Grade 3
Grade 4
AATCC 143

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8

May 18, 2006

29
WOVEN GARMENTS TOPS, BLOUSES, SHIRTS, DRESSES STANDARD #3

Staining Grade 3
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength 25 lb. ASTM D5034
Seam Strength
Fabrics <3.0 oz/sq. yd
Fabrics >3.0 oz/sq. yd

15 lb.
20 lb.
ASTM D1683
Yarn Slippage

10 lb.
15 lb.
ASTM D434, D1683
Snap Strength Tension Test
Zipper Strength Tension Test
15 lb.
15 lb.
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE AATCC 112
Adults 150 ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
(RN#)
FTC Care Labeling Rule

GENERAL FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
No barre

GENERAL GARMENT REQUIREMENTS
shrinkage
Garment must be cut on straight grain

May 18, 2006

30
WOVEN GARMENTS TOPS, BLOUSES, SHIRTS, DRESSES STANDARD #3

GARMENT DURABILITY VISUAL

appliqus
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting of
fabric
hardware
GARMENT
CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING
VISUAL

weight
No sharp edges

DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments

Ends must be finished

May 18, 2006

31

WOVEN GARMENTS BOTTOMS & SKIRTS STANDARD #4
COTTON, POLYESTER, NYLON, ACRYLIC (EXCLUDING DENIM & SWIMWEAR

FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, warp & filling As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3775
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



100% Cotton
Synthetic Blends
4 X 4
3 X 3

GARMENT APPEARANCE
Testing Required Only For Wrinkle Free or Durable Press Finishes
Fabric Smoothness

Grade 3, 5
Grade 4
AATCC 124
Seam Smoothness Grade 3 AATCC 88B
Crease Retention

Grade 3
Grade 4

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8

May 18, 2006

32

Staining Grade 3
Activewear
Daywear/Sportswear
Step 4
Step 4
40 Hours
20 Hours
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Seam Strength

15 lb.
20 lb.
ASTM D1683
Yarn Slippage 15 lb. ASTM D434, D1683
15 lb.
15 lb.
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
(RN#)

No barre
shrinkage

May 18, 2006

33


appliqus
fabric
hardware
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
SNAPS/BUTTONS/HARDWAR
E
Must be securely attached
weight
No sharp edges

DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

34

WOVEN GARMENTS STANDARD #5
Guideline Care Instructions: Rayon & Rayon Blends - Machine Wash Cold, Line Dry or Dry Clean
Silk & Silk Blends Hand Wash Cold, Dry Flat or Dry Clean
Linen & Linen Blends - Hand Wash Cold, Dry Flat or Dry Clean
Wool & Wool Blends - Hand Wash Cold, Dry Flat or Dry Clean
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Single Fiber
Blends

No Tolerance
3% Tolerance


Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC 135, 150, 158
Machine / Hand Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132, 158
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Staining Grade 3
Daywear/Sportswear
Silk
Step 4
Step 4
20 Hours
10 Hours

May 18, 2006

35

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength
Fabrics < 3.0 oz/sq yd
Fabrics > 3.0 oz/sq yd

20 lb.
25 lb.
ASTM D5034
Seam Strength

15 lb.
20 lb.
ASTM D1683
Yarn Slippage

10 lb.
15 lb.
ASTM D434, D1683
15 lb.
15 lb.
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
Manufacturer Registration(RN#)
Wool Product Label # (WPL#)
FTC Wool Labeling Act
No barre
shrinkage

appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

36


weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

37

WOVEN GARMENTS CORDUROY, VELVET, VELVETEEN STANDARD #6
Guideline Care Instructions:
Unconstructed, Unlined Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low
Constructed Lined Dry Clean Only

FABRIC QUALITIES
Fabric Weight As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3776
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150, 158
Machine Laundering
Dry Clean
4 X 4
2 X 2

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 3
Wet Grade 2
Staining Grade 3

May 18, 2006

38

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
(RN#)

No barre

shrinkage


appliqus
fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

39


weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

40

WOVEN GARMENTS DENIM, MADRAS, CHAMBRAY, & INDIGO DYED STANDARD #7

FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



100% Cotton, Un-laundered
100% Cotton, Laundered
5 X 5
3 X 3

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 3
Wet Grade 2
Staining Grade 3
Activewear
Daywear/Sportswear
Step 4
Step 4
40 Hours
20 Hours
Ozone Bleached Indigo Only Grade 3 1 Cycle AATCC 129

May 18, 2006

41

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength

25 lb.
35 lb
ASTM D5034
Seam Strength

25 lb.
30 lb.
ASTM D1683
15 lb.
15 lb.
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions

No barre

shrinkage

May 18, 2006

42


appliqus
of fabric
hardware

weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

43

WOVEN GARMENTS BLAZERS, LINED STANDARD #8
Guideline Care Instructions: Dry Clean Only
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 158
2 X 2

COLORFASTNESS
Dry Cleaning AATCC 132, 158
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry
Wet

Grade 4
Grade 3

Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Lining
Dry
Wet

Grade 5
Grade 4

Grade 4*
Grade 3*
*Exception: pigment, indigo9 sulfur
Lining
Shade Change

Grade 4

Staining Grade 4
Step 4 20 Hours
Ozone Bleached Indigo Only Grade 3 1 Cycle AATCC 129

May 18, 2006

44

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength
Shell
Lining

25 lb.
20 lb
ASTM D5034
Seam Strength
Shell
Lining

25 lb.
20 lb.
ASTM D1683
Button/Snap Strength
Tension Test
15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
No barre

shrinkage

May 18, 2006

45


appliqus
of fabric
hardware

weight
No sharp edges

May 18, 2006

46

OUTERWEAR KNIT STANDARD #9
Guideline Care Instructions: Wool & Wool Blends Dry Clean Only
Other Fibers Machine Wash Cold, Tumble Dry Low
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



Machine Laundering
Dry Clean
5 X 5
2 X 2


COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry
Wet

Grade 4
Grade 3

Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Lining
Dry
Wet

Grade 5
Grade 4

Grade 4*
Grade 3*

May 18, 2006

47

Lining
Shade Change

Grade 4

Staining Grade 3
Step 4 20 Hours

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength (Knit)
Shell/Lining

45 psi
ASTM D3786

Fabric Strength (Woven)
Lining

25 lb.
ASTM D5034
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Seam Strength (Knit)
Shell/Lining

45 lb.
ASTM D3787
Seam Strength (Woven)
Lining

25 lb.
ASTM D1683
Tension Test

15 lb.
15 lb.

16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test

FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150ppm AATCC 112

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions

May 18, 2006

48

No barre

shrinkage


appliqus
of fabric
hardware

weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

49

OUTERWEAR WOVEN (EXCLUDING LEATHER) STANDARD #10
Wool & Wool Blends Dry Clean Only
Other Fibers Machine Wash Cold, Tumble Dry Low
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance


Machine Laundering
Dry Clean
5 X 5
2 X 2

COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry
Wet

Grade 4
Grade 3

Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Lining
Dry
Wet

Grade 5
Grade 4

Grade 4*
Grade 3*
Lining
Shade Change

Grade 4

Staining Grade 3
Step 4 20 Hours

May 18, 2006

50

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength
Shell
Lining

35 lb.
25 lb.
ASTM D5034
Seam Strength
Shell
Lining

35 lb.
25 lb.
ASTM D1683
Tension Test

15 lb.
15 lb.

16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
WATER REPELLENCY
Water Repellency If Required

Water Resistance If Required

90
70
1 gram leakage max.
AATCC 22
Un-washed
Washed
AATCC 35
Adults 150ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
No barre

shrinkage

May 18, 2006

51


appliqus
fabric
hardware

weight
No sharp edges

DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

52

SLEEPWEAR & LINGERIE KNIT STANDARD #11

FABRIC QUALITIES
courses
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance

FLAMMABILITY
All Fabrics Class 1 Normal Title16 CFR 1610 or ASTM D1230

Jersey, Interlock
Pique
Ribs, Spandex
Thermal
Fleece, French Terry, Velour
5 X 5
7 X 5
5 X 7
7 X 7
6 X 5


COLORFASTNESS
Color Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Crocking AATCC 8
Dry
Wet
Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 3*
Grade 2*

Shade Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Step 4 10 Hours

May 18, 2006

53

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Bursting Strength
Seam Strength
45 psi
35 lb.
15 lb.
15 lb.
ASTM D3786
ASTM D3787
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
15 lb (for 10
seconds)
16 CFR 1500.52
Adults 150 ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions

No barre
shrinkage

appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

54

weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

55

SLEEPWEAR & LINGERIE WOVEN STANDARD #12

FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance


FLAMMABILITY
All Fabrics Class 1 Normal Title16 CFR 1610 or ASTM D1230

Cotton Non-raised Surface
Cotton Raised Surface
Synthetic Blends
4 X 4
5 X 5
3 X 3

COLORFASTNESS
Color Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Crocking AATCC 8
Dry
Wet
Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Shade Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Step 4 10 Hours

May 18, 2006

56


STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength
Seam Strength
Yarn Slippage

20 lb.
25 lb.

15 lb.
20 lb.

10 lb.
15 lb

ASTM D5034

ASTM D1683

ASTM D434, D1683

16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test

Adults 150 ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions

No barre

shrinkage

May 18, 2006

57


appliqus
of fabric
hardware
GARMENT
CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING
VISUAL
weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

58

SWEATERS STANDARD #13
Guideline Care Instructions: Acrylic & Acrylic Blends, Cotton & Cotton Blends -
Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low
Silk & Silk Blends, Wool & Wool Blends, Ramie & Linen Blends
Hand Wash Cold, Dry Flat or Dry Clean
FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, wales & courses As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3887
Fiber Content
Single Fiber
Blends

No Tolerance
3% Tolerance


Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC 150, 158
Machine / Hand Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 3 X 3


COLORFASTNESS
Staining Grade 3
Crocking AATCC 8
black, over dye, brushed or napped
Staining Grade 3
Active wear Step 4 40 Hours

May 18, 2006

59

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Zipper Strength Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150 ppm
Labeling
(RN#)

No barre

shrinkage
No skewing over 5%

DURABILITY VISUAL

appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

60


weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS

May 18, 2006

61

SWIMWEAR KNIT STANDARD #14
Guideline Care Instructions: Hand Wash Cold, Line Dry
FABRIC QUALITIES
courses
Fiber Content
Blends

3% Tolerance


Ribs, Spandex
Other

5 X 7
7 X 5


COLORFASTNESS
Color Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Crocking AATCC 8
Dry
Wet
Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Pool Water
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5
AATCC 162

Sea Water
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5
AATCC 106
Perspiration
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5

AATCC 15

May 18, 2006

62

Step 4 40 Hours

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Bursting Strength
Seam Strength
45 psi
35 lb.
15 lb.
15 lb.
ASTM D 3786
ASTM D 3787
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
Adults 150ppm

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
No barre
shrinkage
No skewing over 5%


appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

63

weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

64

SWIMWEAR WOVEN STANDARD #15
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



100% Cotton
Synthetic Blends
4 X 4
3 X 3

COLORFASTNESS
Color Change
Staining
Grade 4
Grade 3

Crocking AATCC 8
Dry
Wet
Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 3*
Grade 2*
Pool Water
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5
AATCC 162

Sea Water
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5
AATCC 106
Perspiration
Shade Change
Staining
Self-Staining

Grade 4
Grade 3
Grade 5
AATCC 15

May 18, 2006

65

Step 4 40 Hours

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile Strength
Seam Strength
25 lb.
35 lb.
15 lb.
15 lb.
ASTM D5034
ASTM D1683
16 CFR 1500.52
16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
Adults 150ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
No barre
shrinkage

appliqus
of fabric
hardware

May 18, 2006

66

weight
No sharp edges
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments


May 18, 2006

67

ANCHOR BLUE APPAREL PRICING

Asia India
Middle
East
Central
America
USA
Europe
Package Price
FABRIC PACKAGE TESTS $124 $80 $182 $156 $220
Fabric Count
Fabric Weight
Dimensional Stability to Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Appearance after Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Colorfastness To Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Colorfastness To Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness To Non-chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness To Crocking
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness To Light (20 AFU)
FALSE
ADDITIONAL COLORS $92 $72 $171 $106 $107
Colorfastness to Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Colorfastness To Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness To Non-chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness To Crocking
Colorfastness To Light (20 AFU)

GARMENT TESTS $92 $72 $146 $109 $147
Dimensional Stability in Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Colorfastness To Laundering or Dry Cleaning
Skewing (Torque/Spirality) (Knits and sweaters only)
Appearance after Laundering or Drycleaning
Seam Strength
Tension Test on Components (5 pc.)
FALSE
ADDITIONAL TESTS 30% 0% 30% 30% 30%
Wearing Apparel Flammability (Suspect Fabrics) $28 $19 $39 $43 $81
Yarn Size (per yarn) $10 $3 $13 $13 $36
Fiber Analysis (Two Fibers) $18 $9 $18 $24 $89
Bursting Strength $17 $9 $23 $20 $73
Tensile Strength $13 $9 $16 $14 $51
Colorfastness To Pool Water $14 $13 $34 $18 $50
Colorfastness To Sea Water $8 $ 8 $10 $11 $32
Minimum Report Charge $23.00 $4.00 $28.00 $ - $110.00

Note:
Additional / Failed tests will be retested at 30% discount applied from regional lab price list. India: Full regional prices

May 18, 2006

68

SGS Labs:

Asia: Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, Korea, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand
India: New Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Tirupur, Thane (Bombay)
Middle East: Dubai, Egypt, Turkey
Central America: Guatemala
USA and Europe: UK, New Jersey, California

May 18, 2006

May 18, 2006

69

HOME TEXTILES
AND
HARDLINE ACCESSORIES

TESTING MANUAL

May 8, 2006

May 18, 2006

70

SECTION 1

HOME TEXTILES

BELTS
HANDBAGS
STUFFED PILLOWS
BED CANOPY
RUGS
BLANKETS/THROWS

May 18, 2006

71
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page


Contacts... 5

Introduction.. 7

Sample Requirements.... 8

U. S. Government Regulations. 9

Testing Procedures.. 10

ANCHOR BLUE Test Requirements....... 11

Approved SGS Laboratories 13

Laboratory Test Request Form. 17


Performance Standards Index.. 22


ANCHOR BLUE Pricing.. 84

May 18, 2006

72

MANUAL REVISION LOG


1
st
COPY: May 2006 Karen McGuire

May 18, 2006

73
CONTACTS

ANCHOR BLUE

Ms. Vickie Nellor
VP of Production / Sourcing
2501 E, Guasti Road
Ontario, CA 91761
Telephone: 909-605-5253
Fax: 909-605-5556
Email : [email protected]

Ms. Janet Hughes
Vendor Compliance Manager
Telephone : 909-605-5130

SGS USTC

US Key Account Manager
Mr. Joel Cass
Rancho Cucamongo
CA 91730
Telephone: 714-536-2271
Cell: 323-350-0466

Account Coordinator
Ms. Nicole Effenberger
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Fax: 973-575-8271

May 18, 2006

74

CONTACTS (continued)

SGS USTC

US Key Account Manager:
Kimberly Richardson
Rancho Cucamonga
CA 91730
Telephone: 909-483-0250
Cell: 714-815-3955

US Technical Support
Ms Karen McGuire
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Cell: 860-466-9495
Fax: 973-575-8271

May 18, 2006

75

QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Performance testing serves to assure product durability, safety, and compliance with government regulations,
consumer satisfaction and reduced customer returns.

These Standard Operating Procedures and Performance Standards have been developed by SGS as a
combined result of testing experience, participation in national standards organizations, and input from
ANCHOR BLUE and industry leaders around the world.

The Performance Standards are listed by major merchandise category, and define specific performance
parameters. These standards are further detailed according to woven or knit construction, by fiber, by type of
color application, and by finishing technique. Each factor will influence performance requirements and
tolerances.

ANCHOR BLUE requires that all merchandise meet or exceed the outlined performance requirements and
meet guideline care instructions. Tests will be conducted at SGS laboratories, and a SGS laboratory report
with a favorable rating must be attained prior to production and shipping of merchandise.

All reports will be reviewed and evaluated by ANCHOR BLUES Quality Assurance Division.

This manual applies to ANCHOR BLUE and all its subsidiaries and divisions and is not to be reproduced, in
part or in whole, without written permission from ANCHOR BLUE and SGS.

ASTM...The American Society for Testing and Materials
www.astm.org

AATCCThe American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
www.aatcc.org

CPSCConsumer Product Safety Commission
www.cpsc.gov

FTCFederal Trade Commission
www.ftc.gov

CFR..Code of Federal Regulations
Can be found on the CPSC website www.cpsc.gov or www.access.gpo.gov

May 18, 2006

76

SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS

Fabric Sample Requirements:
Two yards of one color and one yard of each additional color.
All colorfastness testing must be conducted on bulk production colors.
For styles that will be colorblocked or have contrasting trim each combo will be sewn together
with its contrasting trim.
To avoid delays, duplication of tests and to reduce cost, all colors must be submitted at the same time.

Garment Sample Requirements:
Garments that are colorblocked or have decorative trims, such as appliqus, ribbons, bows, etc. require three
samples (one sample to be used as a control).
Garments that are solid or an overall pattern require only two samples. The lab may cut a swatch from the
garment to be used as the control.
Garments must contain all accessories (buttons, zippers, trims, interlining, etc.) that will be used in bulk
production. The actual manufacturer must make the sample on production machinery.
Component testing (buttons snaps zippers, etc.) require five (5) samples, mock-ups along with the garments
are permissible.
In garment stage, testing will be conducted on one color only.

May 18, 2006

77

U. S. GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS


Code of Federal Regulations Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles

FTC Trade Regulation Rule for Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act

FTC Guides for the Feather and Down Products Industry

FTC Rules and Regulations under the Fur Products Labeling Act

CPSC Rules and Regulations


May 18, 2006

78

TESTING PROCEDURES


Provide vendor with a copy of ANCHOR BLUE Quality Assurance Manual.
Identify the styles to be tested and determine the specific tests to be conducted.
Propose Care Label.


Timely sample submission to the local SGS Laboratory, with a copy of the completed SGS Test Request
Form.
All Performance Standards must be met before care labels are ordered. If care labels are ordered prior to
obtaining passing test results are received and new care labels are required, vendor will be responsible to
order new labels at his own expense.
Failed samples will be returned to Anchor Blue at the vendors expense.


Distribute ANCHOR BLUE Quality Assurance manual to approved SGS Laboratories
a) M Meets ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
b) F Fails to meet ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
Report is to include results, requirements, pass/fail and conclusion.
Care label is to be verified/corrected
Reports are to be issued within five (5) business days via email or fax to:
b) ANCHOR BLUE, Vendor Compliance Manager: [email protected].
A hard copy of the report and sample (s) are to be sent to ANCHOR BLUES office. The tested sample(s)
and control(s) must be identified with the Report # and Style #.
c) Failed reports and sample (s) are to be returned at once.
d) Passed reports and sample (s) will be returned twice a month.

May 18, 2006

79
ANCHOR BLUE TEST REQUIREMENTS

PACKAGE TEST LIST
Belts
Leather &
Fabric
Handbags
Individual Tests

Dimensional Stability in Laundering (3 cycles)
or Dry Cleaning (1 cycle)
Fabric Belt
Appearance after Laundering or Dry cleaning Fabric Belt
Colorfastness to Laundering or DC (Actual)
Staining evaluated after 1 wash, shade change evaluated
after 3 washes / 1 DC
Fabric Belt
Colorfastness to Crocking X X
Colorfastness to Light (Silk, Swimwear and Activewear) Fabric Belt X
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Fabric Belt
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Fabric Belt
Colorfastness to Water (Handbags Only) X
Fabric Weight Fabric Belt X
Thread Count Fabric Belt X
Seam Strength X X
Component Strength (Snaps, Zippers, Buttons) X X
Zipper Strength Properties (Handbags Only) X
Flammability (Suspect fabrics only) Fabric Belt Exempt
Fiber Composition (Two or more fibers) Fabric Belt X
Yarn Size Fabric Belt
Tensile Strength (Woven) Fabric Belt X
Tear Strength X
Water Resistance (Handbags Only) X
Corrosion Resistance X
Lead in Paint (Handbags Only) X
Abrasion Resistance (Handbags Only) X
Finish Adhesion (Leather Handbags Only) X
Resistance to Cracking (Leather / Vinyl Handbags Only) X

May 18, 2006

80
ANCHOR BLUE TEST REQUIREMENTS

PACKAGE TEST LIST
Pillows Bed
Canopy
Rugs Blanket
INDIVIDUAL Tests

Fiber Content X X X X
Dimensional Stability in Laundering or Dry Cleaning
(If Applicable)
X X Spot Clean X
Appearance after Laundering or Dry cleaning or Spot
Clean
X X
Colorfastness to Laundering or DC or Spot Clean X X X
Colorfastness to Rug Spot Cleaning X
Colorfastness to Crocking X X X X
Before and
after wash or
DC
Colorfastness to Light X X X X
Colorfastness To Perspiration X
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach X X X
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach X X X
Colorfastness to Rug Back Staining X
Fabric Weight X X X
Seam Strength X
Pull Test (Decorative Attachments or Beads, Buttons, etc.) X X X
Flammability X Large Rug
Only
Blanket
Flammabilit
y
Yarn Size X X X
Thread Count X X
Tensile Strength (Woven Only) X X X

May 18, 2006

81

SGS India Gurgaon (New Delhi) SGS India Chennai (Madras)
SGS India Ltd.
250 Udyog Vihar,P
Phase IV
Gurgaon 122015
INDIA
Phone:
91(124)2399990-98
Telefax:
91 124 2399766
CONTACTS: Rahul Garg/Charan Singh
E Mail : [email protected]/[email protected]
SGS Lab House
No 21, New Street, Kottur
Chennai 600 085
INDIA
Phone :
(91-44) 447.67.61(Textile)
(91-44) 447.09.15 (Textile)
Telefax :
(91-44) 447.03.17 (Textile)
CONTACT: Anitha Jeyeraj
SGS India Thane (Bombay) SGS India Tirupur
SGS India Ltd.
A-77 Main Road #16
Wagle Industrial Estate
Thane 400 604 Mumbai
INDIA
Phone:
(91-22) 582.07.77 (91-22) 582.35.38
Telefax91-22) 580.00.21
CONTACT: Biplab Chakraborty
E Mail : [email protected]
350-A Bagyalakshmi Complex
2
nd
Floor,Avinashi Road
Tirupur 641602
INDIA
Phone:
(91-421) 2204091
Telefax:
(91-421) 220 4092
CONTACT: P M Reddy
E Mail :[email protected]
SGS India Bangalore Sample Collection Center: Ludhiana,
India
SGS India Pvt Ltd.
No. 23, Siva Arcade, 29
th
Main, 1
st
Stage,
BTM Layout
Bangalore 560 076
INDIA
Phone:
(91-80) 26789025 28
Telefax:
(91-80) 26787820
CONTACT: Mr. Subrata Das
SGS
405, Savitri Complex, Dholewal
Chowk, GT Road, Ludhiana
INDIA
Phone:
91-161-2537950/51
CONTACT: Deepak Sharma
Sample Collection Center:
Ahmedabad, India
Sample Collection Center: Kolkata,
India
SGS
410,Sampada,Mithakali Six Roads
Navrangpura,Ahmedabad
INDIA
Phone:
91-079-5842525/772
CONTACT: Manoj Pathak
SGS
Post office 2330,Delta House 4
Govt place north Kolkatta
INDIA
Phone:
91-33-24583392
CONTACT : Manoranjan Jena

May 18, 2006

82
Sample Collection Center : Delhi,
India
Sample Collection Center : Panipat,
India
SGS
B-283,Ground Floor
Okhla Industrial Area ,Phase 1
New Delhi
INDIA
Phone:
9899101279
CONTACT: Mr Shiam
Email :[email protected]
SGS
102,Prakash Guest House
GT Road,Panipat
INDIA
Phone:
091-180-2632837/5987
CONTACT: Mr Pratap
SGS Turkey SGS Sri Lanka
Abide-i Hurriyet cad. Gecit Sok. No:10 Kat:2
34381 Sisli/ Istanbul Turkey
Phone:
90 212 225 00 34
Telefax:
90 212 296 47 82
CONTACTS: Nadin Hacerestunc (x211, 212)
Nazli Sahin (x219)
Nazli. [email protected]
SGS Lanka (Pvt) Ltd.
140, Vauxhall Street
Colombo 2
SRI LANKA
Phone: 2300890/1
Telefax: 2300890/1
CONTACTS:
Roshan Peries
Sumathy Rajasingham
Email: Sumathy.rajasingham
SGS Pakistan Lahore SGS Pakistan Karachi
6 D, Upper Mall, Canal Bank
Lahore
PAKISTAN
Phone:
92-42-5716833-6
Telefax:
92-42-571837
CONTACT: Sabbara Zafar
22/D Block 6, Pechs P.O. Box 12538
Karachi 75400
PAKISTAN
Phone:
(92-21) 454.02.60-65/ (92-21) 454.32.35
(92-21) 454.18.79
Telefax:
(92-21) 454.88.24/ (92-21) 452.72.49
CONTACT: Abdul Razzak Lakhani
SGS China (Shanghai) SGS Hong Kong
1/F, 3
rd
Building
No. 889 Yishan Road
Shanghai 200233
CHINA
Phone:
(86-21) 54 64 45 50
Telefax:
(86-21) 64.95.17.17
(86-21) 64.95.87.63 (Textile Lab)
CONTACT: Ms. Carol Chen
5/F 8/F, Metropole Square
Shatin, Hong Kong
Phone:
(852) 23.34.44.81
(852) 23.64.22.72 (Lab)
Telefax:
(852) 23342461
(852) 27643276(Lab)
CONTACT: Ms. Catherine Lung

May 18, 2006

83
SGS China (Changzhou) SGS China (Guangzhou)
SGS- CSTC
Room 203 No. 1 Punan Road
Changzhou, Jiangsu,
CHINA 213001
Phone:
0086-519-6903383/6903385
Telefax:
0086-519-6903381
CONTACT: Carol Chen
SGS-CSTC
198 KEZHU Road, SCIENTECH Park Guangzhou
Economic & Technology Development District,
Guangzhou, Guangdong, CHINA 510663
Phone:
(86-20) 8215 5656
Telefax:
(86-20) 8207 5165
CONTACT: Amos Lin
SGS Taiwan SGS Singapore
SGS Taiwan Limited
136-1, Wu Kung Road
P.O. Box 312
Phone: (886-2) 22.99.39.39/ (886-2) 22.99.29.11
Telefax:
(886-2) 22.99.32.59
(886-2) 22.99.32.27 (Textile Lab.)
CONTACT: Cindy Chen
SGS Testing & Control Services Singapore PTE LTD
26 Ayer Rajah Crescent #03-07
Ayer Rajah Industrial Estate
Singapore 139944
SINGAPORE
Phone:
(65) 6778.15.50
Telefax:
(65) 6779.05.49
CONTACT: Ms YC Tham
SGS Thailand SGS Japan
Phone:
(66-2) 294.74.85-9/ (66-2) 683.05.41-7
Telefax:
(66-2) 294.78.84
(66-2) 683.07.58
CONTACT: Mali Jattawong
Japan Spinners Inspection Foundation
18 15, Uemachi 1- Chome
Chou-Ku
Osaka 540-0005, Japan
Phone:
81-6-6762-5885
81-6-6762-5905 (Direct)
Contact:
Mr. Yukimasa Yasuda
Ikuko Watanabe
SGS Korea SGS Philippines
SGS Korea Co., Ltd.
11
th
& 12
th
floors, ChungRyong Building
98-38 GalWal-dong, Yongsan-Ku
Seoul
KOREA (REPUBLIC OF)
Phone:
(82-2) 709.45.42 M
Telefax: (82-2) 793.81.42
CONTACT: Kate Lee and Jason Han
Email: [email protected] and [email protected]
SGS Philippines
2
nd
Floor Alegria Bldg.
2229 Chino Roces Avenue
PO Box 2174 MCPO 1261
Makati City, Manila, Philippines
Phone:
(0632) 8175656
Telefax :
(0632) 7502946
CONTACT : Leah Jaboli

May 18, 2006

84
SGS USA California SGS Bangladesh
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
USA
Phone:
(909) 483-0250
Telefax:
(909) 483-0336
CONTACT: Mr. Salman Ehsan
Email [email protected]
SGS Bangladesh
7
th
Floor Noor Tower
1/f Free School Street
73 Sonargaon Road
Dhaka 1205 BANGLADESH
Phone:
880 2 967 6490
Telefax 880 2 967 6495
CONTACT: Yeasmin Akhter
SGS USA New Jersey SGS United Kingdom
Fairfield, NJ 07004
USA
Phone:
(973) 575-5252
Telefax:
(973) 575-1193
CONTACT: Mr. Greg Kolbeck
Oakwood House
City Road
Bradford, West Yorkshire
BD8 8JY
UNITED KINGDOM
Phone: 44 1274 760400
Telefax: 44 1274 760418
CONTACTS: Amanda Howard and Ian Strudwick
[email protected]
SGS Guatemala SGS Mauritius
Textile Laboratory, SGS de Guatemala S.A.
42 calle 23-00 zona 12 Bodega No. 3
01012 Guatemala, C.A.
Guatemala
Phone:
502-2470-3394
Telefax:
502-2470-3396
CONTACT: Mr. Carlos Juarez
Email: [email protected] or
[email protected]
SGS House
Valentina
Phoenix
Mauritius
Phone: (230) 696 8808
Telefax: (230) 696 7088
CONTACT: Mr. Zikriya Bolaky
Aktar Emrith
CC: [email protected]
SGS Dubai, UAE SGS Egypt
SGS Gulf Ltd.
Office Block 6
Ras Al Khor Complex
Al

May 18, 2006

85

ANCHOR BLUE HOME TEXTILES
TEST REQUEST FORM

(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com
DIVISION:

CONTACT PERSON:

VENDOR:

EMAIL:
ADDRESS:

PHONE: FAX:
REPORTS TO:

SAMPLE DESCRIPTION:

END USE:
COLOR: SUPPLIER #:
STYLE #: PO# / REF#:
MFG: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
FIBER CONTENT: WEIGHT:
FABRIC: CONSTRUCTION:
COUNT:

Category Testing: (double click on box, select
check)
Belts Leather & Fabric
Handbags
Pillows

Bed Canopy
Rugs
Additional Colors

Retest: Previous Report Number: _____________________ Date: _________________

Individual Tests (Please specify below):
Dimensional Stability
Colorfastness to Laundering /
DC
Colorfastness to Crocking
Colorfastness to Light
Colorfastness to Chlorine
Bleach

Colorfastness to Non-
Chlorine Bleach
Pilling
Flammability
Fiber Content
Thread Count
Fabric Weight
Lead in Paint

Resistance to Cracking
Colorfastness to Water
Zipper Strength
Tensile Strength
Tear Strength
Corrosion Resistance
Component Strength
Colorfastness to Rug
Back Staining

SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:

DATE:

NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to ANCHOR BLUE

Service Required: Regular (5 days) Express (3 days) Return Residual Sample

May 18, 2006

86

Test Report No:______________________ Date:_____________ Page 1 of 4

OVERALL RATING
PASS
FAIL

ANCHOR BLUE
VENDOR NAME :
SAMPLE
DESCRIPTION :

END USE:
CONTACT:
COLOR :
FABRIC/GARMENT
STYLE :
ORDER:
ANCHOR BLUE
CONTACT :
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
FIBRE CONTENT : WEIGHT :
SAMPLE RECEIVING
DATE :
RETEST PREVIOUS REPORT NO.
Applicants Submitted
Care Instruction:
SGS Recommended
Care Instruction :

TEST PASS FAIL REMARKS
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING
APPEARANCE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING
FABRIC WEIGHT
TENSILE STRENGTH
TEARING STRENGTH
FLAMMABILITY
FIBRE CONTENT
PASS = Meets ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standards
FAIL = Fails to meet ANCHOR BLUE Performance Standard

CONCLUSION:

SGS.

May 18, 2006

87


Test Results:

REQUIREMENT
(A) (B)

DIMENSIONAL CHANGES AFTER 3
rd
WASHING

WARP/LENGTH (%)
WEFT/WIDTH (%)

APPEARANCE AFTER 3
rd
WASHING

Observation on washed sample (A) & (B) :

(Ref. AATCC 61-2001 Test No. 2A, 45 mins, Mechanical wash at 80 degree F in 0.15% 1993 Standard
Reference detergent WOB solution with 50 steel balls)

COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL

(AATCC 15:2002)

COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL

May 18, 2006

88

Test Report No:____________________ Date:_______________ Page 3 of 4

(A) (B) REQUIREMENT

(AATCC 8:2001)

DRY
WET
(AATCC TS 001)

COLOUR CHANGE

(AATCC TS 001)

COLOUR CHANGE

(AATCC 16:1998 Option E; Xenon-Arc Lamp)

COLOUR CHANGE
(After 20 Fading Unit)

TENSILE STRENGTH
(ASTM D5034-1995(2001); CRE 1 grab)

WARP (LB)
WEFT (LB)

TEARING STRENGTH
(ASTM D1424-1996-Elmendorf)

WARP YARNS TORN (LB)
WEFT YARNS TORN (LB)

FABRIC WEIGHT PER UNIT AREA
(ASTM D3776-1996; Option C)

(oz/sq.yd.)
(g/sq.m.)

FIBRE CONTENT
(AATCC 20-2002)

May 18, 2006

89


FLAMMABILITY
The apparatus and methods of testing were those described in 16 CFR Part 1610 Standard for the
Flammability of Clothing Textiles (CS-191-53)

Fabric Surface :
Preliminary Testing : Length Width

Test sample direction performance :

Original State After Drycleaning & Washing *
Burn Code Burn Code

(1) (1)
(2) (2)
Sample (3) (3)
(4) (4)
(A) (5) (5)
(6) (6)
(7) (7)
(8) (8)
(9) (9)
(10) (10)

Flammability Classification : Class Requirement : Class 1 (Pass)

Remarks : Class 1 - Normal Flammability
Textiles meeting these requirements are generally accepted by the trade as
having no unusual burning characteristics.

DNI = Did not ignite

35 Drycleaning / Washing procedure is according to 16 CFR 1610:4(d) (e).


May 18, 2006

90
PERFORMANCE STANDARDS INDEX

Standard 1 Belts Leather & Fabric 24

Standard 2 Handbags 25

Standard 3 Stuffed Pillows 27

Standard 4 Decorative Bed Canopy 30

Standard 5 Rugs 32

Standard 6 Blankets 34

May 18, 2006

91
BELTS Leather/Textile Materials STANDARD # 1

LEATHER BELTS:
CHEMICAL TESTS
Ph >3.5 ASTM D2810
Total Ash (1 composite sample) 1% - 8% ASTM D2617
Oil & Grease (1 composite
sample)
8% - 25% ASTM D3495
STRENGTH TESTS
Thickness As specified(+/- 1/2 oz) ASTM D1814 or ASTM D1813
Tensile Strength 2500 lbs ASTM D2209
Elongation 25% - 40% @ 100 lbs ASTM D2211
Buckle Tear Strength Flexing ASTM D4831
Bending Crack Resistance 1/4mandrel no
cracking
ASTM D6075
COLORFASTNESS TESTS
Crocking ASTM D5053
Dry Grade : 4
Wet Grade : 3.5
Staining Resistance flesh
surface
Grade : 3 ASTM D6012
Lightfastness (fading resistance) No Color Change after
96 hrs.
AATCC 16
TEXTILE MATERIAL BELTS:
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fabric Weight +/- 5% ASTM D3776
Thread Count +/- 5% ASTM D3775
Yarn Size +/- 5% ASTM D1059
Thickness +/- 5%
Fiber Content 100%: No tolerance
Blends: +/-3%
AATCC 20 / 20A
COLOR FASTNESS
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3
Light 20 Fading Units Grade 4 AATCC 16
Water AATCC 107
Color Change Grade 4.0
Staining Grade 3.0
Self Staining Grade 5.0
Atmosphere Fumes Grade 4.0 AATCC 23
STRENGTH
Tensile Strength 50 lbs ASTM D5034
Bonding Strength 10 lbs ASTM D1424
Hole Pullout Strength 25 lbs In-house Method
Resistance to Corrosion metal No visual change or
corrosion after 24 hours
soaking in saline solution
In-House Method
Lead in Surface Coating 0.06% by weight CPSA 16 CFR 1303

May 18, 2006

92
HANDBAGS STANDARD #2

Leather / Vinyl / Fabric

TEST PERFORMED REQUIREMENT REGULATION OR
TEST METHOD
FABRIC QUALITIES
Thickness Fabric / Leather
Weight Fabric / Leather
Thread Count
As Specified (+/- 5%)
ASTM D1777 / ASTM D1818
ASTM D3775 / ASTM D2346
ASTM D3775
COMPOSITION
Leather Approved English name must be stated
Fiber Content
Single Fiber
Blends

No Tolerance
3% Tolerance

FLAMMABILITY Class 1 Title 16 CFR 1610

COLORFASTNESS
Crocking AATCC 8

Dry
Wet
Leather/Denim Vinyl Fabric Lining
Grade 3 4 4 4
Grade 2 3 3 3
Water Spotting Grade 4 AATCC 104
Water
Shade Change
Staining

Grade 4
Grade 4
AATCC 107
Light, 20 Hours Step 4 AATCC 16E
Finish Adhesion Leather Only
No discoloration or change in
appearance or finish
Scotch Tape Test
SGS Method
SOIL RELEASE
(Soil Release Treated Fabrics Only)
Grade 4 AATCC 130

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile
Shell
Lining
Tear Strength
Shell
Lining

Bar Tack Reinforcement

Resistance to Cracking, 0 degrees
F 4 hours (Leather/Vinyl Only)

Snap / Component Strength
Tension

40 lb.
20 lb.

3 lb.
2 lb.

15 lb.

No cracking, chipping, or
noticeable change in hand

15 lb.
ASTM D5034

ASTM D1424

ASTM D 1682

ASTM D2136

16 CFR 1500.53F

May 18, 2006

93

HANDBAGS STANDARD #2

Leather / Vinyl / Fabric
TEST METHOD

SEAM PROPERTIES
Seam Strength
Lining Seams Woven Fabric
Lining seams Vinyl
Handle / Strap Strength
Zipper Tape Attachment Strength
20 lb.
15 lb.
10 lb.
25 lb.
25 lb.
ASTM D5034

ZIPPER STRENGTH
PROPERTIES
ASTM D2061
Scoop Pull Strength
Stops / Slider, Open & Closed
Position
Chain Crosswise Strength
Slider Pull Strength
Resistance to Slider Torque
Smooth Operability
10 lb.
10 lb.

15 lb.
15 lb.
2 in/lb.
2 lbs

CORROSION RESISTANCE 48 hours @ 98% RH @ 135F
Hardware / Buckles No Corrosion of Finish
No Color Change

WATER REPELLENCY (if claimed) AATCC 22
Spray Test 80 Un-washed

ABRASION RESISTANCE ASTM D3884 (Taber)

DEHP ASTM D3421
Childrens PVC Only None Present

LEAD IN PAINT 0.06% by weight max. 16 CFR 1303

LABELING
Fiber Content
Type of Leather
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
(RN#)
As per Anchor Blue specifications
FTC Textiles Fiber Products ID Act
FTC Guidelines for Leather
FTC Textiles Fiber Products ID Act

May 18, 2006

94

STANDARD #3
STUFFED PILLOWS
Bed Pillows, Toss Pillows, Decorative Pillows
Guideline Care Instructions: Dry Clean or Professional Cleaning Only or Spot Clean with
a Fabric Stain Remover

FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, wales & filling As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3775
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance


FLAMMABILITY Exempt California Tech Bulletin 117

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY VISUAL
Shrinkage % % Length %Width AATCC 135, 150, 158
Laundering 4% X 4%
Dry Cleaning 2% X 2%

COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Clean AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Color Change Grade 4 Grade 3*
Staining Grade 3
Static Wetting* AATCC 107
Staining Grade 3
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Crocking* AATCC 8
Wet Grade 3.5 Grade 2*
black, overdye
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics.
Step 4 20 Hours

May 18, 2006

95
STANDARD #3
STUFFED PILLOWS
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Decorative Attachments (Buttons, Beads, Etc.) ASTM F963
Fabric<80 gsm 10 lb.
Fabric>80 gsm 15 lb.

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
State Bedding Registration # (Filled Products Only)
Manufacturer Registration # (Federal RN#) when mfr is
importer of record
Anchor Blue name and address
Individual State Regulation
All Pillows should have a permanently sewn in label, this label should be affixed to the
Top panel or a visible location, a minimum size of 2 X 3, printed, on only one side of
Label, in black ink and in English. The label must include the following information:

DO NOT REMOVE
Description of Filling Material
State Registration Number
Certification Statement
Name and Address of Anchor Blue
Finished Size
Federal RN # of mfr when importer
Country of Origin

LABEL REQUIREMENTS FOR STUFFED PILLOWS
Law labels are required to identify the stuffing contents of a product. Manufacturers that ship/sell
stuffed bedding must register in each state that requires registration. Once registration is complete
in the first state, they will be issued a registration number that must appear on each and every
item produced. If a stuffed article is sold in Canada, manufacturer must also be registered in
Canada and meet provincial requirements.

No barre
shrinkage

May 18, 2006

96
STANDARD #3
STUFFED PILLOWS
DURABILITY VISUAL
Items must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable use and cleaning.

No fraying of hems, edges or trims.
No objectionable pilling, change in hand or frosting of fabric.
Appliqus
fabric

CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
SEAM ALLOWANCE/TYPE Must be appropriate for end use
As indicated on purchase order
All seams must be uniform and clean finished
CONSTRUCTION Topstitching must be uniform & consistent
No needle cutting

May 18, 2006

97
STANDARD #4
DECORATIVE BED CANOPY
Guideline Care Instructions: Machine Wash Cold, Tumble Dry Low or Dry Clean

FABRIC QUALITIES
Yarn Size As Specified (+/- 10%) ASTM D1059, 1244
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance



Shrinkage % AATCC 135, 150, 158

Laundering
Dry Clean
% Length %Width
5% X 5%
2% X 2%

COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Staining Grade 3
Staining Grade 3
Crocking* AATCC 8
black, overdye
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics
Step 4 40 Hours

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98
STANDARD #4
DECORATIVE BED CANOPY

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Decorative Attachments (Buttons, Beads, etc.) ASTM F963
Fabrics<80 gsm 10 lb.
Fabrics>80 gsm 15 lb.

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
importer of record
Anchor Blue name and address

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
No barre
shrinkage
Item must be cut on straight grain
DURABILITY VISUAL
Items must not exhibit a noticeable change in

No fraying or raveling of hems, edges or trims.
fabric
SEAM ALLOWANCE/TYPE Must be appropriate for end use.
All seams must be uniform and clean finished
Topstitching must be uniform & consistent
No needle cutting

May 18, 2006

99
STANDARD #5
RUGS
Guideline Care Instructions: Professional Rug Cleaning Only Spot Clean with a Carpet
Stain Remover
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends
Single Fiber

3% Tolerance
No Tolerance


FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1631
Small Rugs Less than 24 sq ft Pass OR
Failure to meet requirements must be labeled Flammable
(Fails US Department of Commerce Standards 16CFR-30).
Should not be used near sources of ignition.
Large Rugs Over 24 sq ft or
Over 6 feet long
Pass 16 CFR 1630

Shrinkage % AATCC 135, 150
% Length % Width
3 X 3
Professional Rug Clean or Spot
Clean

COLORFASTNESS
Cleaning Professional Rug Clean or Spot
Clean
Staining Grade 3
Rug Back Staining Grade 4.5 AATCC 137
Staining Grade 3
Crocking* AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics
Step 4 20 Hours

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100
STANDARD #5
RUGS

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile Strength
Fabric

35 lb.
ASTM D5034

Labeling
Fiber Content
Country of Origin
Care Instructions
importer of record
Anchor Blue name or logo or Federal RN# when Anchor
Blue is imported of record



DURABILITY VISUAL
Carpet/Rug must not exhibit a noticeable change in

No fraying of hems, edges or trims.
No deterioration or yellowing of vinyl backing.
No objectionable pilling, change in hand or frosting of fabric.

SEWING CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
This includes, but is not limited to:
Seam Allowance/Type
Construction

Must be appropriate for end use.
All seams must be clean finished

May 18, 2006

101
STANDARD #6
BLANKETS / THROWS

Polyester, Acrylic & Blends - Machine Wash Warm, Tumble Dry Low
Cotton & Cotton Blends - Machine Wash Warm, Tumble Dry Medium
Wool & Wool Blends - Dry Clean

TEST PERFORMED REQUIREMENT REGULATION OR TEST
METHOD

FABRIC QUALITIES
Fiber Content
Blends 3% Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Single Fiber No Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act

FLAMMABILITY
All blankets must meet industry
flammability standards.
Flammability testing is required for
items with fiber contents of a suspect
nature, such as cotton, rayon, silk, or
a blend of these fibers.
ASTM 4151 (Voluntary
Industry Standard)

Shrinkage, %
Length Width
Polyester/Acrylic/ Blends 3 X 3
Cotton/Cotton Blends 3.5 X 4 AATCC - 135, 150
Wool/Wool Blends 2 X 2 AATCC
- 158

SKEWING 5% AATCC
179

COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4 AATCC 132, 158
Staining Grade 3.5
Self-Staining Grade 4.5

Static Wetting Grade 4 AATCC
107

May 18, 2006

102
STANDARD #6
BLANKETS / THROWS

METHOD
Crocking AATCC
8

Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3.5

Perspiration AATCC
15

Staining Grade 3

Exposure to Light AATCC
16E

Step 4 20
Hours

Bleach - Chlorine Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Bleach - Non-Chlorine Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001

STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile Strength: Woven 25 lb. ASTM D5034
Bursting Strength: Knits 45 lb. ASTM D3786
Yarn Slippage 20 lb. ASTM D434
Beads 15 lb. ASTM
PS79

LABELING
Fiber Content FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Country of Origin FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Care Instructions FTC - Care Labeling Rule
RN Number FTC Textile Fiber ID Act

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS VISUAL
No barre
No exposed yarn ends or knots
on face of fabric

All components must be compatible with no
differential shrinkage

No noticeable puckering or twisting of
fabric or seams

Item must be cut on straight
grain

May 18, 2006

103
STANDARD #6
BLANKETS / THROWS

METHOD

DURABILITY VISUAL
Items must not exhibit a noticeable change in appearance or fit after reasonable use and cleaning.
No fraying of hems, edges, or
trims.

No objectionable pilling, change in
hand or frosting of fabric.

Seam Allowance/Type Must be appropriate for end use
All seams must be uniform and
clean finished

Construction Topstitching must be uniform &
consistent

No needle cutting

May 18, 2006

104

SECTION 2


JEWELRY
CORK BOARDS
INCANDESCENT LIGHTING FIXTURE
LIGHTING FIXTURE & PORTABLE LIGHTING
PORTABLE ELECTRIC LAMP
SUNGLASSES

May 18, 2006

105
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page


Contacts.... 39

U. S. Government Regulations..... 40

Testing Procedures. 41

Approved SGS Laboratories . 42

Laboratory Test Request Form.. 44


Performance Standards Index... 46


May 18, 2006

106

MANUAL REVISION LOG


1
st
COPY: May 2006 Karen McGuire

May 18, 2006

107

CONTACTS

ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES
Blake Yamaato
Telephone:
Fax:

SGS
Global Key Account Manager (GKAM) for Anchor Blue
Mr. Joel Cass
Telephone: 714-536-2271
Fax: 973-575-1193

Key Account Manager for Anchor Blue
Kimberly Richardson
Telephone: 714-815-3955
Fax: 973-575-1193

Technical Manager
Harry Marcoux
Telephone: 630-518-6263
Fax: 630-897-8440

Technical Manager
Piyush Shah
Telephone: 973-575-5252 ext. 2087
Fax: 973-575-8271

May 18, 2006

108

U. S. Government Regulations


Child Safety Protection Act (CSPA)

Federal Hazardous Substance Act (FHSA)

California Safe Drinking and Toxic Enforcement Act (Prop. 65)

Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA)

Coalition of New England Governors (CONEG)

Care Labeling Rule

CPSC Rules and Regulations for Child Safety


May 18, 2006

109
TESTING PROCEDURES


Provide vendor with a copy of ANCHOR BLUE ACCESSORIES Quality Assurance Manual.
Provide vendors, SGS GKAM and laboratories with spreadsheet identifying styles to be tested.
Propose Label.


Send sample to the local SGS Laboratory, with a copy of the completed SGS Test Request Form.
Send a copy of the Test Request form to Anchor Blue buyer for their reference.
Products that fail federal requirements must be re-submitted for testing as indicated on the test report.


Distribute ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Quality Assurance manual to approved SGS Laboratories
Upon receipt of sample, lab must notify vendor if sample does not contain artwork and findings as described
in the sample description on the test request form.
In case of dispute between vendors description and the test request description, the lab must email SGS
GKAM immediately for clarification.
a) S Satisfactory. Meets ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Protocols
b) U Unsatisfactory. Does not meet ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Protocols
Visual evaluations must be described in a clear and precise way, so they may be easily interpreted by Anchor
Blue Quality Assurance Department
Test reports with Safety issue failures must indicate that samples required for retesting
Reports are to be issued in five (5) ten (10) business days via email to:
b) ANCHOR BLUE, Quality Assurance Department
(need contact info)

Email subject line must indicate style # so that reports are easily identified by client
Hard copy of report must be mailed to:
(need contact info)

May 18, 2006

110

APPROVED SGS LABORATORIES

SGS Hong Kong SGS USA New Jersey
5/F - 8/F, Metropole Square
Shatin, Hong Kong
Phone: (852) 23.34.44.81
Telefax: (852) 23342461
CONTACT: Kenneth Lee
Fairfield, NJ 07004
USA
Phone: (973) 575-5252
Telefax: (973) 575-1193
CONTACT: Mr. Piyush Shah
SGS Taiwan SGS China (Shanghai)
SGS Taiwan Limited
136-1, Wu Kung Road
P.O. Box 312
Phone: (886-2) 22.99.39.39/ (886-2) 22.99.29.11
Telefax: (886-2) 22.99.32.59
HARDLINES CONTACT: Steven Chiou
1/F, 3rd Building
No. 889 Yishan Road
Shanghai 200233
CHINA
Phone: (86-21) 54 64 45 50
Telefax: (86-21) 64.95.17.17
HARDLINES CONTACT: Tom Lee
SGS China (Guangzhou) SGS China (Shenzhen)
SGS Guangzhou Branch
1
st
Floor, 198 KEZHU Road,
Science Town
High & New Technology Development District
Guangzhou CHINA
Phone: (86-20) 82169300
Telefax:(86-20) 82169560
HARDLINES CONTACT: Aaron Luo
SGS-CSTS Standards Technical Services Co. Ltd.
2/F & 4/F, Oastar Building
Zhongkang Road
Shanmeilin, 518049
Shenzhen, CHINA
Phone: (86) 755-8311 4358
CONTACT: Dora Lin

May 18, 2006

111
APPROVED SGS LABORATORIES

SGS Thailand SGS Korea
Phone:(66-2) 294.74.85-9/ (66-2) 683.05.41-7
Telefax:(66-2) 294.78.84/ (66-2) 683.07.58
HARDLINES CONTACT: Pornpana Lirathpong
SGS Testing Korea Co.,Ltd.
4F, 18-34, Sanbon-dong
Gunpo-si.Kyongki-do
Korea 435-041
Phone: 82-31-428-5761
Telefax: 82-31-427-2374
CONTACT: Yuri Hong
SGS India Guragaon (New Delhi)
SGS India Ltd.
250 Udyog Vihar, P
Phase IV
Guragaon 122015
INDIA
Phone: 124 2399990-98
Telefax: 91 124 2399764
CONTACT: Charan Singh

May 18, 2006

112

No:

ANCHOR BLUE HARDLINE ACCESSORIES
TEST REQUEST FORM
VENDOR NAME::

CONTACT PERSON:

ADDRESS:

EMAIL:
PHONE: FAX:
ANCHOR BLUE BUYER:
REPORTS TO:

ITEM DESCRIPTION:
Include art work
COLOR: REF#:
STYLE #: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
MFG: WEIGHT:
LABELED AGE GRADING: CONSTRUCTION:
PERFORMANCE STANDARD NUMBER:


Category Testing: (double click on box, select check)
Jewelry
Cork Boards
Incandescent Lighting Fixture
Lighting Fixture & Portable Lighting

Portable Electric Lamp
Sunglasses

Retest: Previous Report Number:________________ ______Date: __________________

Individual Tests (Please specify below):

SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:

DATE:

NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to Anchor Blue Spotswear

Service Required: Regular (4-5 days) Express (3 days) Return Residual Sample

(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com

May 18, 2006

113

OVERALL RATING
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY

ANCHOR BLUE
BUYER :
BUYER DEPT: :
CONTACT:
CLIENT CONTACT :
STYLE:
COLOR : COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
ORDER: WEIGHT :
PERFORMANCE
STANDARD #:

SAMPLE RECEIVING
DATE :
PREVIOUS REPORT #: RETEST: YES NO

TEST S U REMARKS
LABELING
LEAD IN PAINT COATING
WORKMANSHIP
GLASS STRESS
SWITCH DURABILITY
POLARIZED PLUG
TEMPERATURE TEST
RESISTANCE TO CORROSION

SATISFACTORY = Meets Client Performance Standards
UNSATISFACTORY = Fails to meet Client Performance Standard

CONCLUSION :

SGS.


May 18, 2006

114

HARDLINES ACCESSORIES PERFORMANCE STANDARDS INDEX

Standard 1-H Jewelry 47

Standard 2-H Cork Boards 50

Standard 3-H Incandescent Lighting Fixture 51

Standard 4-H Lighting Fixture & Portable Lighting 56

Standard 5-H Portable Electric Lamp 66

Standard 6-H Sunglasses 76

May 18, 2006

115

STANDARD #1-H
JEWELRY - COSTUME / SEMI PRECIOUS

TEST METHOD

LABELING
Distributors Name & Address
(City, State & Zip) (See
Minimum Labeling
Requirements: Business
Identification)

F.P. & L. Act
(16 CFR 500)
Product Identification

Labeling Packaging
(When Applicable)
All

NAFTA & FTCA Sect. 5
Labeling & Claim Country of Origin
(If Imported)
16 CFR 23

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Physical Dimensions
Single (Length) Report overall dimension.
If claims made the tolerance is
(-0%/+5%)
Std Measure
Pair (Length) Maximum 15% difference
between each in a pair
Std. Measure
Total Weight
Single (Weight) Report total weight. If claims
made the tolerance is
(-0%/+5%)
Std. Measure
Pair (Weight) Maximum 15% difference
between each in a pair
Std. Measure

May 18, 2006

116
STANDARD #1-H

TEST METHOD

CONSTRUCTION & WORKMANSHIP
Defects Shall have no apparent defects
such as crazing, bubbles, cracks,
fractures, chips, dents,
indentations, blisters, stains,
shivering, deformations, heavy
lines, waves, shear marks, scuff
marks or surface degradation
Visual
Workmanship The fit and function should be
acceptable. Shall have no
missing or damaged parts
Visual
Sharp Points No accessible sharp points to be
present on the item in the as-
received condition. Functional
sharp points are acceptable
16 CFR 1500.48

Sharp Edges No accessible sharp edges to be
present on the item in the as-
received condition. Functional
sharp edges are acceptable

16 CFR 1500.49
PERFORMANCE
Strength Properties:
Earring (Post Backing) Min. 100 Gm. Pull Strength ASTM D1683

Chain/Rope/Cord (Necklace) Min. 10 lbs ASTM D1683

Clasping Area Min. 10 lbs. ASTM D1683

Setting Strength Min. 20 lbs. ASTM D1683

Belts Min. 15 lbs. ASTM D1683

May 18, 2006

117
STANDARD #1-H

TEST METHOD

Bracelets Minimum stretch of twice the
original diameter with all strand
pulled together. Note: Stretch to
be performed after mounting the
bracelet on a 2 diameter vinyl
pipe which has a cutaway

ASTM D1683
Impact Strength No liberation of any component in
5 drops on vinyl clad concrete
floor from 4 ft. ht.
ASTM F963
Torsion Strength No failure at 5 in. lbs.

ASTM F963
Compression Strength No breakage at 10 lbs.
compression

ASTM F963
Projections Shall be free from projections

ASTM F963
ANALYTICAL
*Total Lead Content in Each
Component
Not in excess of 0.06% Pb by
weight (CPSA - 16 CFR
1500.230) Guidance for lead in
consumer products. Note: All
surface coatings, if applicable,
should be removed for this test.
Only the base metal must be
tested

CPSC Method
*Lead in Surface Coating Not in excess of 0.06% Pb by
weight (CPSC - 16 CFR 1303)

ASTM E1613/E1645
*Nickel leaching / Release Test
(Quantitative) Finished Products
Only (Skin Contact Items Only)

Cannot exceed 0.5 micrograms /
cm
2
per week
94 / 27 / EC
*Additional charge for this test

May 18, 2006

118
STANDARD #2-H
CORK BOARDS

TEST METHOD

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES TEST
For Food Contacting Materials
Lead in paint coating

Requirements are published in the
Code of Federal Regulations
(C.F.R.) in Title 16, Part 1303.

The ban covers paint or any other
similar surface coating that
contains more than 0.06% lead
(lead containing paint).

16 CFR 1303
For Non Food Contacting Materials
PCP Content US FDA 21 CFR 178.3800 Compliance with US
FDA 21 CFR 178.3800
for wood materials

May 18, 2006

119

STANDARD #3-H
INCANDESCENT LIGHTING FIXTURE (UL 1598)

TEST METHOD

LABELING
Labeling / Packaging Review
(If Applicable)
Should be legibly marked with the
following information:

Distributors name, trademark
or other means of identification
of the manufacturer or packer &
address (City, State & Zip)
Product identification
Net quantity of the contents in
terms of weight, measure or
numerical count (Metric & US
Standard) or a combination so
as to give accurate information
and facilitate value comparison
by the consumer
Country of origin
(if imported)

16 CFR 500
Verify Label Claims Visual Check The labeling must
comply and valid with
all claims.
According to table 17.1.1 :
1. Identification Of Manufacturer
2. Date Of Manufacturer
3. Factory Identification
4. Catalog / Model Number

UL 1598 1
st
Ed. Sect.
17.2
Marking - Product
Caution, maximum lamp wattage
and lamp type according to table
17.1.1 items 3.17 and 3.1
UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
4.1
Instructions Shall include Assembly / Mounting
Instructions. Shall provide proper
wiring instructions.
UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
17.4 and 17.5
Regulatory Listing Mark Should have valid NRTLs Listing
mark , e.g. UL , ETL or equivalent
Visual Check

May 18, 2006

120
STANDARD #3-H

TEST METHOD

California Prop. 65 Warning
Regarding Lead In PVC For
Electrical Cords
If no warning is on the package, the
PVC must be analyzed for lead. If
the lead content exceeds 0.03% by
weight (300 ppm) in the PVC, the
package must include the following
warning:

PROP 65 WARNING:
Handling The Coated Electrical
Wires Of This Product Exposes
You To Lead, A Chemical Known
To The State Of California To
Cause Cancer, Birth Defects Or
Other Reproductive Harm. Wash
Hands After Use.

Visual Check
Weight Of Components (lbs.) As claimed; swag lamps and 4 ft. of
chain shall not exceed 30 lbs.

Std. Measure
Dimensions (in.) Components shall conform to any
claims made.

Std. Measure
Glass Thickness (in.) According to the exposed area of
the glass , thickness should be as
indicated in table 2.16.2.1 (Except
Halogen Lamps.)

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
2.16
Metal Sheet Thickness For
Enclosures (in)
Sheet thickness should be as
indicated in table 2.5.1 and 2.5.2
UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
2.5

May 18, 2006

121
STANDARD #3-H

TEST METHOD

CONSTRUCTION QUALITIES
Workmanship Review All components shall be
provided as claimed and shall
not be deformed or fractured.
All hardware shall be provided
All welds shall be smoothly
finished and free from pits and
splatter
All components shall not
contain any burrs or sharp edges
(test by touch or sight)

Product shall not contain any loose
components or unsecured fastening
where rigidity is required

Visual Check
Base Should provide a smooth base to
reduce the likelihood of scratching
surfaces.
Visual Check
Wall Mounting Mounting hardware should be
capable of supporting 4X weight for
one hour

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
13.15
Grounding Conductor 18 AWG Min.

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
3.14.2.5
PERFORMANCE
Switch Durability There shall be no loosening or
failure of the switch in 100 cycles
of operation.

Actual Use
Glass Stress For glass held by friction, shall
withstand force equal to 4X glass
Wt.

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
13.24.1

May 18, 2006

122
STANDARD #3-H

TEST METHOD

Polarized Plug A fixture having a screw shell type
lamp holder shall be wired such that
a wire connected to the screwshell
or to the grounded (Neutral)
terminal of the receptacle is
identified at the point of connection
to the supply

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
3.3.4
Leakage Current Shall be less than 0.5mA between
surface to ground

Std. Measure
Dielectric Breakdown No breakdown after 1 min. at 1000
V

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
14.1
Grounding Continuity Grounding continuity between
luminary grounding terminal and
accessible metal part shall not
exceed 0.10 Ohm.

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
14.2
Temperature Test Must not exceed max. temp. rise of
482F (250 C) Nickel alloy or
392F (200 C) Copper or
Aluminum for lampholder screw
shell and max. rise of 194F (90
o
C)
at points of fixture support

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
11
8 Hour Test There shall not be any deterioration
after 8 hours of consecutive use
Actual Use
*Resistance To Corrosion
(Metal Components)
Shall withstand 24 Hours in 1% Salt
Spray (Fog) for outdoor with no
major visual change or corrosion.
ASTM B117 G85
Humidity Test No failure @ 95% RH @ 100 F
(38 C) for 24 Hours
SGS In House Method
037
Effects Of Extreme Temperature
(Environmental)
24 Hours @ 0 F (-18C) and 24
Hours @ 120 F (49C) - no failure
SGS In House Method
036

May 18, 2006

123
STANDARD #3-H

TEST METHOD

Rain Test After 4 hours of rain test, the tested
sample shall:

a) withstand the dielectric voltage-
withstand test of Clause 14.1;

b) not have permitted water to
enter and accumulate in
quantities sufficient to interfere
with operation of the luminaire
or to create a hazard; and

c) not have permitted water to contact
electrical parts, except lamps or
components suitable for the
condition

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
13.5.2
#Claim Verification
(If Claimed)
All designs and features must
conform to actual claim

Visual Check / Actual
Use

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR TUNGSTON-HALOGEN LAMPS
Halogen Lamps Will Be
Provided With A Lamp
Containment Barrier.
A barrier that consists of the top
sides and bottom that enclose the
lamp compartment.

UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
4.3
Glass Lens Thickness 2.4mm (0.095 in) minimum if less
than 100W Or 3.0mm (0.118 in)
minimum if greater than 100W
UL 1598 1
st
Ed.Sect.
4.3.1.7
ANALYTICAL
* Lead In PVC (Test Only If No
Prop 65 Warning On Package)
If greater than 0.030 % Pb by
weight (300 ppm), Then the cal.
Prop. 65 warning should be present.

US EPA SW 846
Method #3050
*Lead In Scrapable Surface
Coating
Not in excess of 0.060 % Pb by
weight
(CPSA 16 CFR 1303)

ASTM E1613/E1645

May 18, 2006

124

STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

LABELING & PACKAGING
Labeling Distributors name & address (city,
state & zip)

F.P.L.A.
16 CFR 500
Country of Origin Marking (If
imported)
Country of origin marking shall be
provided and clearly indicated to
the ultimate purchaser of a product
where it is made.

NAFTA & FTCA /
Sect. 5
Safety Certification Mark The provided safety mark shall be
validated.

Client Requirement
FCC Report (If applicable) The provided FCC report shall be
validated.

Client Requirement
MARKINGS & CONSTRUCTION
Bilingual on Caution, Warning
and User Manual
Products for US market must have
English and Spanish. Products for
Canadian Market must have English
and French.

Client Requirement
User Manual / Important Safety
Instructions / Assembly
Instructions / wiring and
Installation Instructions
Instructions and warnings shall be
provided in the user manual
identifying reasonable, foreseeable
uses or misuses of the product. It
shall also include instructions
regarding the installation, use,
safety and maintenance.

UL153 12ed.
Cls 183-193
UL1598 1ed. Cls. 17.4-
5

May 18, 2006

125
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

General Markings The following markings shall be legibly
and readily visible after the product is
installed:
- Manufacturers name, trademark or etc.
- Model number or etc.
(if any)
- Electrical rating (if any)
- Date code
- Indoor or outdoor use
- Relamping marking

UL153 12ed.
Cls 169-182
UL1598 1ed. Cls. 17.2
Cautionary and Warning

A cautionary or warning intended to
inform the user of a potential risk of fire,
electrical shock, or injury to persons shall
be provided.
UL153 12ed.
Cls 169-182
UL1598 1ed.
Cls. 3.4.1.4, 4.1.2,
4.2.5.2,
4.2.6.1,
4.3.1.2,
4.3.2.3,
6.5.3,
6.6.5,
6.6.7,
7.8.1,
8.8.2.1,
8.8.2.5

Accessories All accessories shall be described in the
users manual and provided with
instructions for proper use.

Visual Check
Overall Size (in.)

Product dimension and packaging
dimension

General Measurement
Total Weight (lb.) Total weight
(including packaging and all accessories)

General Measurement

May 18, 2006

126

STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Lamp Shade Dimension and material of lampshade

General Measurement
Lamp Base Dimension and material of lamp base

General Measurement
Lampholder Type and rating of lampholder to be used

Visual Check
Lamp Bulb Type and rating of lamp bulb to be used

Visual Check
Protective Glass for
Tungsten Halogen Unit
Dimension including the thickness of the
protective glass

General Measurement
Transformer / Electronic
Transformer
Type and rating of transformer / electronic
transformer to be used

Visual Check
Ballast Type and rating of ballast to be used

Visual Check
Starter
(For Fluorescent Lamp)
Type and rating of starter to be used

Visual Check

CONSTRUCTION QUALITIES
Workmanship Shall have no major defects such as:
- Cracks or breaks on the provided
accessory.
- Serious scratches on the external
surface.
- Peeling off of rating or caution/warning
labels.
-
Visual Check

May 18, 2006

127
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Unit Assembly

A lighting product shall be completely
wired with each electrical component
mounted in place and with each splice and
connection completed.

During assemble, when electrical
connection is located in a section of a
portable luminaire that is separable for
packing purposes, strain relief shall be
provided to reduce the risk of stress being
transmitted to the electrical connection.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls 8.5
UL 1598, 1ed. Cls. 2.2
Mechanical Assembly All components PCB, switch, lampholder,
etc. shall be securely fixed and prevented
from un-reasonable turning.

Visual Check
Protection Against
Personal Injury
An edge, projection, and corner of
enclosure, frame, guard, handle, or the
like shall be smooth and well rounded and
not sufficiently sharp to constitute a risk
of personal injury.

Visual Check
Internal Wiring Wireways shall be smooth and entirely
free from sharp edges, burrs, fins, moving
parts, and the like that may cause abrasion
of the insulation on conductors.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls 15
UL 1598, 1ed. Cls. 2.14
Strain Relief Portable luminaire shall be provided with
strain relief so that a pull exerted on the
power supply cord is not transmitted
directly to a terminal splice, or interior
wiring of the unit.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 17.1

May 18, 2006

128
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Movable Parts
(Swivel, joints etc)
Movement or rotation is limited to 360
degree and parts / internal wire is
crimped, pinched or/and damaged by
movement or rotation.

Visual Check
Glass Support Glass shall be secured in place and shall
not be subjected to undue strain in normal
use or maintenance to result in breakage
or release.

UL 1598, 1ed Cls.
2.17.1
Type of Supply Cord

The supply cord shall be of the type which
specified in table 31.1 of UL153 and it
shall not be smaller than No. 18AWG.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 31
Length of Supply Cord

The length of supply cord shall be at least
5 feet (1.524m) long. For outdoor unit,
the maximum cord length shall be 50 feet
(15.2 m).

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 31

Polarization Screw shell of lampholder shall be
connected to the grounded conductor of
the power supply.
Fuse and switches shall be connected to
the un-grounded conductor of the power
supply.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls 35
UL 1598, 1ed. Cls.
3.3.4
Guard
(Portable Tungsten Halogen
Lamp)
Tungsten-halogen type unit shall be
provided with a lamp compartment or a
guard such that the lamp is inaccessible to
inadvertent contact during normal use.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 52.2-3
Glass UV-Filter
(Portable Tungsten
Halogen Lamp)
Glass UV filter shall be minimum 1/8 inch
(3.2 mm) thick for over 100 W or 3/32
inch (2.4 mm) thick for 100 watts or less.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 52.5.4

May 18, 2006

129
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Weight of the Ceiling
Mounted Luminaires
A luminaire weighing more than specified
weight including lamps, shall be provided
with means for supporting the luminaire,
independent of the outlet box and shall be
provided with suitable installation
instruction.

UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 7.2.5
Cycling Test for
Adjustable Joint
Each adjustable joint shall be subjected to
the following test:
- 20 cycles performed on wall-mount unit
- 50 cycles performed on portable unit.

The cycles of operation shall be moved
from one extreme of the range to the other
and back to start position.
After the cycling test, the unit shall be
functioned properly and fulfilled the
dielectric voltage withstand test.
Proprietary Method
Suspension Test (for wall
& ceiling mounted
product)

No damage shall be found when a weight
of three times the total weight of the unit
is to be gradually applied at the point of
the maximum projection of the luminaire
and maintained for 1 hour.
UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 156
UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 13.15
Hardness Test By 3H
Pencil
(For Paint And Coating)
Shall be no obvious scratch marks or
peeling paint.

Proprietary Method
Adhesion Test By 3M
Transparent Tape 600
(For Paint And Coating)
Using 100-grids test method, each grid is
1mm x 1mm. After the test, no more than
10 grids of painting or powder coating are
detached.
Proprietary Method
Lead Content
(For paint or Coating)

The lead content on coating or paint of
enclosure shall not in excess of 0.06% Pb
by weight.

CPSC Regulations
Title 16 Part 1303

May 18, 2006

130
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Chain/Cable of Chandelier
Lighting
For chandelier lighting, the chain length
for US and Canada shall be at least 72",
the length of the cable shall be at least
96.
Home Depot
Requirement

Thumb Screw for Fixing
Glass Lampshade
Thumb screw for glass lampshade shall
not equip with screw driving slot.

Home Depot
Requirement
PERFORMANCE
Functional Check All the major features shall be described
in the manual, with no misleading
information or any other user-friendliness
problems.

Actual Use
Stability Test The product, complete with glassware or
shade provided is placed on a plane
inclined at an angle of 8 degrees with the
horizontal. The product shall not tip over.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 132

Rain Test
(Outdoor Product Only)
After the test, no water shall be entered
the luminaire such that caused a hazard
and the unit passes the dielectric voltage
withstand test.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 164
UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 13.5.2
Noise Check
(For Ballast, dimmer or
transformer equipped
product)
The product shall not have obvious noise,
hamming noise or white noise.

Proprietary Method
Lamp Start Time
(For Ballast equipped
product)
Shall be less than 1 second. Proprietary Method
Insufficient & Exceed Voltage
of Power Supply
(For Ballast equipped
product)
The product shall be able to operate between
0.9-1.1 times rated voltage for 1 hour.

Actual Use
Power loss of the dimmer
or transformer
When the unit operated at full output, the
efficiency shall not less than 85%.

Proprietary Method
Power Factor
(For Canada Product)
For fluorescent lamp export to Canada, power
factor shall have 0.9 or higher.

General Measurement

May 18, 2006

131
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

ELECTRICAL & SAFETY
Dielectric Voltage
Withstand Test
The insulation and spacings shall withstand
the dielectric voltage withstand test without
breakdown for a period of 1 min when a test
voltage of 1200Vac is applied between:
a) Live parts and accessible dead metal
parts
b) Live parts and accessible low-voltage
metal parts, including terminals.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 137
UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 14.1
Grounding Continuity
Test

All exposed dead metal parts that are exposed
to contact during any servicing operation,
including maintenance and repair, and that can
become energized shall be electrically
connected to the grounding terminal and with
earth resistance not more than 0.1 Ohm.
UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 136
UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 14.2
Normal Temperature
Test
(Portable Luminaires)

Under normal operating condition, the
accessible parts shall not attain excessive
temperature as follows:

a) External surface (other than lamp or
lens): 90
o
C

b) Operating knobs, handles, and levers for
momentary contact,
- Wood: 90
o
C
- Plastic: 85
o
C
- Glass, porcelain: 70
o
C
- Metal: 50
o
C
-
c) Handles, and levers for carrying or holding,
- Metallic: 50
o
C
- Non-metallic: 60
o
C

Polymeric material used as a decorative
parts shall not melt or deform in such a way
as to interfere with normal operation of the
product.

UL 153, 12ed.
Cls. 125

May 18, 2006

132

STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD

Normal Temperature Test
(Fixed Luminaires)
UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 11.2
Under normal operating condition, the
temperature of outlet box supply
conductors shall not exceed the
following:
- Dwellings (wall mount, USA): 90C
- Dwellings (wall mount, CAN): 75C
- Dwellings (ceiling mount): 90C
- Other than dwellings: 200C

Polymeric material used as a decorative
parts shall not melt or deform in such a
way as to interfere with normal
operation of the product.

Operation Test for Unit with
Adjustable Lampshade

Proprietary Method Luminaire shall not cause hazard when
operated at maximum wattage of rated
lamp and the lampshade adjusted to the
most thermally unfavorable position
(ie. Lamp bulb close to the adjustable
lampshade).

The test shall be continuous operate for
7 hour.

During and after the test, no smoke,
fire, deformation or burnt mark shall be
observed.

SPECIAL CLAIMED FEATURES

Other Special Features All special features claimed on the instruction
sheet or packaging shall be verified.

--

May 18, 2006

133
STANDARD #4-H

TEST METHOD
GIFT BOX MARKING

UL 153, Clause 169.11 (US
only) Gift Box Marking for
portable lamp with toy
appearance

WARNING - THIS IS AN ELECTRIC LAMP - NOT
A TOY! TO AVOID RISK OF FIRE, BURNS,
PERSONAL INJURY AND ELECTRIC SHOCK IT
SHOULD NOT BE PLAYED WITH OR PLACED
WHERE SMALL CHILDREN CAN REACH IT. or
equivalent.
(Letter height: min. 6.4mm)
Exception: This marking shall be provided unless it
marked on product
(1/4 inch high) and is visible through the packaging.

-
-
UL 1598, Clause 7.8.1 (US
only) Gift Box Marking for
Surface-mounted luminaires
installed over an outlet box
CAUTION - RISK OF FIRE
CONSULT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN TO ENSURE
CORRECT BRANCH CIRCUIT CONDUCTOR
(Letter height: min. 2.4mm)

-
-
UL 1598, Clause 17.5.1 Gift
Box Marking for Fixed
Luminaires require installation
by a qualified electrician

THIS PRODUCT MUST BE INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE
WITH THE APPLICABLE INSTALLATION CODE BY A
PERSON FAMILIAR WITH THECONSTRUCTION AND
OPERATION OF THE PRODUCT AND THE HAZARDS
INVOLVED
(for US, English version)

"CE PRODUIT DOIT ETRE INSTALL SELON LE
CODE DINSTALLATION PERTINENT, PAR UNE
PERSONNE QUI CONNAT BIEN LE PRODUIT ET
SON FONCTIONNEMENT AINSI QUE LES
RISQUES INHRENTS" (for CSA, French Version)

Exception: Unless a details installation instruction
(including proper method of connecting the grounding
means and maintaining polarity) is provided in the
installation manual.

-
-
UL 1598, Clause 3.15.1.5
Gift Box Marking for luminaire
required to connect to branch
circuit conductor rated >60C
(US) or >75C (CAN)
MIN ___
o
C SUPPLY CONDUCTORS
(for US, English version)

"LES FILS D'ALIMENTATION DOIVENT CONVENIR POUR
___
o
C"
(for CSA, French Version)
-
-

May 18, 2006

134

STANDARD # 5-H
PORTABLE ELECTRIC LAMP (UL 153)

TEST METHOD

LABELING & PACKAGING
Labeling / Packaging Review
(If Applicable)
Should be legibly marked with
the following information:
Distributors name,
trademark or other means of
identification of the
manufacturer or packer &
address (City, State & Zip)
Product identification
Net quantity of the contents
in terms of weight, measure
or numerical count (Metric
& US Standard) or a
combination so as to give
accurate information and
facilitate value comparison
by the consumer
Country of origin
(if imported)

FPLA
16 CFR 500
Verify Label Claims The labeling must comply and
valid with all claims.

Visual Check
Regulatory Listing Mark Should have valid NRTLs
Listing mark , e.g. UL , ETL or
equivalent

Visual Check

May 18, 2006

135

STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

California Prop. 65 Warning
Regarding Lead In PVC for
Electrical Cords
If no warning is on the package, the
PVC must be analyzed for lead. If the
lead content exceeds 0.03% by weight
(300 ppm) in the PVC, the package
must include the following warning:

PROP 65 WARNING:
Handling The Coated Electrical
Wires Of This Product Exposes
You To Lead, A Chemical Known
To The State Of California To
Cause Cancer, Birth Defects Or
Other Reproductive Harm. Wash
Hands After Use.

Visual Check

MARKINGS
General Shall have markings of this section
in permanent form described. Shall
include Manufacturers
identification, rating, mounting
orientation, hot surface warnings,
etc.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 169
Incandescent Units Shall be marked permanently in
1/8 letters at point visible during
relamping with CAUTION TO
REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
USE ___ WATT OR SMALLER,
____ VOLT, TYPE ____
LAMP(S) or equivalent with
pictograph of bulb type.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 170

May 18, 2006

136
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Tungsten Halogen Units Shall be marked as
described.
UL 153, 12
th
Ed., Section 171
Fluorescent Units Shall be marked as
described.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed., Section 172
High-Intensity-Discharge Units Shall be marked as
described.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed., Section 173
Cord and Chain Suspended
Units
Shall be marked as
described.

UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 174
Portable Cabinet Lights Shall be marked as
described.

Units for Use with Office
Furnishings
Shall be marked as
described.

Convertible Units Shall be marked as
described.

Interchangeable Units Shall be marked as
described.

Track-Style Units Shall be marked as
described.

Portable Luminaire
Subassemblies
Shall be marked as
described.

Work Light Shall be marked as
described.

Wet Location Use Shall be marked as
described.


May 18, 2006

137
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

INSTRUCTIONS
General Instructions shall be on the luminaire, on
the carton, on a tag on the power cord or
stuffer sheet.

Instructions for assembly shall be
included. Polarized plugs shall have
instructions shall have the following
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS in 3/16 high letters
followed by This portable luminaire has
a polarized plug (one blade wider than the
other) as a feature to reduce the risk of
electric shock.

This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only
one way. If the plug does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does
not fit, contact a qualified electrician.

Never use with an extension cord unless
plug can be fully inserted. Do not alter
the plug. or equivalent. Other instruction
shall be per section.
UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 183
Incandescent Units Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 184
Tungsten Halogen Units Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 185
Surface Mount Units Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 186
Cord and Chain
Suspended Units
Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 187
Portable Cabinet Lights Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 188
Units for Use with
Office Furnishings
Shall be as per section. UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 189

May 18, 2006

138
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Convertible Units Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 190
Track-Style Units Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 191
Portable Luminaire
Subassemblies
Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 192
Wet Location Use Shall be as per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed..,
Section 193

MECHANICAL
CONSTRUCTION

General The below apply to all luminaires.

UL 153, 12
th
Edition,
2002, Section 7
Assembly and
Packaging
Shall be constructed so that assembly
shall only be in the correct manner. Wires
shall pass through joints that are separated
in packaging shall be as described.

UL 153, 12th Ed,
Section 8
Enclosures Shall have strength to resist abuses
without resulting in hazard. Servicing
shall not subject wiring to mechanical
damage. Body shall be constructed of
glass, metal, plastic, wood or the like.
Decorative parts may be any material.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 9
Enclosure Openings Enclosure openings shall meet the
requirements of section.

UL 153,12
th
Ed., Section
14
Wireways and Tubing Wiring pulled through tubing shall be able
to be so pulled without damage to
insulation.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 15

May 18, 2006

139
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Shade Construction Shade shall be included unless shade is
entirely decorative, and instructions are
provided.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 16
Strain Relief Strain relief shall be present. Clamps
shall not be used with cords listed,
including SPT-2.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 17
ELECTRICAL
CONSTRUCTION

Assembly and
Packaging
Wiring shall be complete.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 22
Accessibility of Live
Parts
All parts required to be enclosed shall be
inaccessible to probe.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 23
Splices and Connections Wire connections shall be twisted and
solder dipped to at least 1/8.
Connections and splices shall be
mechanically appropriate.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 28
Wiring Attached to
Movable or Flexible
Parts
Wiring to be flexible shall be stranded,
secured, & appropriate.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 29
Protection of Wiring Cord entry shall be free of burrs and the
like. The cord shall be unable to be
pushed onto hot lamp. Polymeric sleeving
shall not be used to reduce risk of cut.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 30
Power Supply Cords Shall be acceptable type, at least 5 long,
and at least 18 AWG.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 31
Attachment Plugs Shall be polarized or grounding type, and
appropriate per section.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 32

May 18, 2006

140
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Polarization and
Identification
Supply connector polarization and
identification shall be appropriate (Class 2
plug in transformers need not be
polarized.).

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 35
Grounding and Bonding All accessible dead metal shall be
grounded when a 3-prong plug is used.
Ground shall be secure per section.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 36
Component Mounting Switches, lampholders and the like shall
be prevented from turning that may twist
wiring.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 40
Lampholders Terminals shall be behind a permanent
barrier. Incandescent lampholders shall
be appropriate. 3-way lampholders shall
only be installed base-down.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 41
Switches and Dimmers Switches, if used, shall be within rating, &
not on ballast load side.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 42
Receptacles Shall match plug type. Shall meet section.

UL 153, 12
th
Ed.,
Section 43

INCANDESCENT UNITS - SUPPLEMENTARY
General The below only apply to incandescent,
non-tungsten-halogen lamps.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 46
Temperature Test-
Exempt Units
If complies with construction and shade
requirements of this section, shall be
exempted from Sections 124 125.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 47
Tests, Markings,
Instructions
Shall comply as appropriate.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Sections 48-49
CLAMP-ON MOUNTED UNITS - SUPPLEMENTARY
General Sections below apply per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 77

May 18, 2006

141
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Construction
Mechanical
Clamp shall be appropriate.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 159
Construction Electrical Cord switch, lampholders shall comply.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 79
Mounting Means Tests Shall comply as appropriate.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 80
PERFORMANCE
Functionality Shall function as intended. Test in
intended use mode.

Actual Use
#Claim Verification
(If Claimed)
All designs and features must conform to
actual claim

Visual Check / Actual
Use
GENERAL NORMAL TEMPERATURE TEST
General Temperature tests shall be applied as
appropriate per subtype above and as
required.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 124
Test Method General Temperature Limits shall comply with
requirements per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 125
GENERAL ANORMAL TEMPERATURE TEST
Adjustable Position or
Multiple Shade
Abnormal Operation
Test
The lamp and shade are adjusted as
described, with shade touching lamps, and
covered in cheesecloth. Shall be no
hazard.
UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 129
GENERAL MECHANICAL TESTS
Stability Test Shall not tip at 8 tilt.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 132
Strain Relief Test Shall endure 35 lb for 1 minute.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 133

May 18, 2006

142
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Drop Test If exempted from stability per 132.1.1,
shall meet drop requirement per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 134
GENERAL
ELECTRICAL TESTS

Ground Continuity Shall have ground bond
< 0.1

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 136
Dielectric Voltage-
Withstand Test
Shall endure 1200 V A.C. for 1 minute
per section.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 137
Transformer Voltage
Output Test
Shall not exceed 30 Volts.

UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 138
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS

Dimensions Report overall dimensions; shall meet
label claims
(if applicable).

Std. Measure
Weight Report overall weight; shall meet label
claims
(if applicable).

Std. Measure
Color Shall be as stated on package or match
approved sample or specified Pantone
color.

Visual Check
CONSTRUCTION & WORKMANSHIP
Workmanship Shall have no components missing,
malformed, and/or fractured.

Visual Check
Defects Shall have no discernible surface
degradation, including crazing, shivering,
denting, bubbles, cracks, stains,
deformations, chips, fractures, heavy
lines, waves, shear marks, scratches, scuff
marks, indentations, or blisters.

Visual Check

May 18, 2006

143
STANDARD # 5-H

TEST METHOD

Sharp Points/Edges Shall have no accessible sharp
points/edges.

16 CFR 1500.48 /
1500.49
Bulb Type Report; shall meet Client/Manufacturer
specifications.

Visual Check
Base and Shade Material Shall meet Client/Manufacturer
specifications.

Visual Check

ANALYTICAL
Lead In Scrapable
Surface Coating
Not in excess of 0.060% Pb by weight
(CPSA - 16 CFR 1303)

ASTM E1613/E1645
Lead In PVC (Test
Only If No Prop 65
Warning On Package)
If greater than 0.030% Pb by weight (300
ppm), Then the cal. Prop. 65 warning
should be present.

US EPA SW 846
Method #3050

May 18, 2006

144
STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

REGULATORY
REQUIREMNT

Lead In Surface Coating
(If Applicable)
Not in excess of 0.06% Pb
by weight (16 CFR 1303)

US: ASTM E1613/ E1645

Cadmium Content
(Applicable For Plastic Material
Only
100 mg/kg EU: EN 1122
Nickel Release
(Applicable For Items With
Prolonged Skin Contact)
Not release more than
0.5ug/cm / week.
EU : EN1811/EN 12472
US- ASTM F 963 -03

Toxic Elements Test
(Applicable For Child Appealing
Item only)
Pb: 90 mg/kg
Sb: 60 mg/kg
As: 25 mg/kg
Ba: 1000 mg/kg
Cd: 75 mg/kg
Cr: 60 mg/kg
Hg: 60 mg/kg
Se: 500 mg/kg

EU- EN71 Part 3
Impact Resistance Test
(Applicable For Sunglasses Lens)
A lens will be failed
when:

- it cracks through its
entire thickness, including
a laminar layer,

-cracks across a complete
diameter into two or more
separate pieces, or any
lens material visible to the
naked eyes becomes
detached from the ocular
surface.
US: 21 CFR 801.410

May 18, 2006

145

STANDARD #6-H

SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

FLAMMABILITY
FLAMMABILITY
No part of the sunglasses
shall ignite within the
specified test period.
Deformation or any other
deterioration, other than
ignition, is permitted.
US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 5.3

PERFORMANCE
Transmittance Properties
Related To Traffic Signal
Recognition
Luminous
transmittance: > 8%
Transmittance of the
traffic signal through
the lens shall be
Red signal > 8%
Yellow signal > 6%
Green signal > 6%

US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 5.6.3
(Table 4)

Polarizing Lens Type I : luminous
transmittance ratio>20

Type II: luminous
transmittance ratio>8

Resistance to Radiation The relative change in
the luminous
transmittance shall be
less than 20%
US: ISO 8980-3 Clause 6.7

May 18, 2006

146

STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

Optical Quality of Lenses

Refractive Properties

Refractive power:
zero in any meridian of an
individual lens,
<3/16 diopter between two
lenses mounted in a frame

Astigmatic power:
Max. refractive power
difference <1/8 diopter between
any two meridans within an
individual lens
Prismatic power:
<1/4 prism diopter within
an individual lens,
<1/2 prism diopter between
two lenses mounted in a
frame

Luminous Transmittance
General purpose lens > 8-
40%

Special purpose lens >3-8
%

(Table 4)
UVA: 0.5 T
V
Max
(315-380 nm)

UVB: 1% Max
(290-315 nm)

(ANSI Z80.3 Section
5.6.2 & Table 4)

US: ISO 8980-3 UV Absorption / Transmittance
(Applicable For Claimed UV
Lens)
The absorption /
transmittance of UV A &
B shall not exceed the
recommended limit

EU: EN 1836: 1997 Clause
4.1.4.2

May 18, 2006

147

STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

Spectral Transmittance &
Recognition Of Signal Lights
(Applicable For sunglasses For
Road Use and Driving)
The spectral transmittance
and recognition of signal
light shall comply with the
requirement in 4.1.2.2
4.1.2.2.1
& Clause 4.1.2.2
Blue Light Absorption
(Applicable For Claimed Filter
to Blue Light)
The solar blue light
transmittance shall not
exceed the claimed limit.
4.1.4.1

FIBER LABELING
US: FDA 21 CFR 801.1 -
801.15

General Labeling Provisions
For Sunglasses

Name and place of
business of
manufacturer, packer
or distributor
Intended uses (labeled
or advertised)
No misleading
statements
Adequate directions for
use
Prominence of required
label statements

Other Countries:
(If Applicable) Visual Check

Labeling Requirement For Over-
The-Counter Sunglasses
Principal display panel
Statement of identity
Declaration of net
quantity
Use of impact
resistant lenses In
sunglasses
US: FDA 21 CFR 801.60 -
801.63

May 18, 2006

148

STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

US: 19 CFR 134

Country Of Origin Marking

Shall indicate country
of origin legibly and
permanently and in a
conspicuous place.
Must be in a close
proximity and in
comparable size to the
name of country or
locality other than the
country of origin
appears on the
marking
Must be visible at point
of purchase
EU: Visual Check

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
US- As approved/ product
specification/ as claimed/ as
measured (+5% / -0%)

Frame Size Measurement
EU: Report overall
dimensions. Must comply
with all claims made on
the product, the packaging
and/or supplied
specifications (-3% /
+3%).
Other Countries: Standard
Measure

May 18, 2006

149
STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

CONSTRUCTION
QUALITIES

Cosmetic Quality Of The Lens Visually inspect the
lens at about 12 from
an open-shaded 40W
incandescent clear
lighting against a dark
background
Shall be reasonably
free of pits, scratches,
grayness, water marks,
bubbles, cracks,
striate, inclusions and
local irregularities
which produce
aberrations that would
impair or prevent the
normal use of the lens
as intended

SUNGLASSES
PERFORMANCE

Normal Use/Functionality

Shall withstand 500 cycles
of normal use.

No structural failure.

No loose parts.
Temple arms, hinges and
nose pads must be
functional as intended
after testing

All Countries: Actual Use
Resistance To Drop The sample shall not
break or show visible
defect after dropping from
4.5 ft onto vinyl flooring

All Countries: SGS In House
Method

May 18, 2006

150

STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

Corrosion Resistance
(Applicable on Metallic
Components Only)
The sample shall not show
any sign of corrosion after
24 hours in 38 deg C and
85% R.H.

All Countries: SGS In House
Method
Impact Resistance Shall be functional after 4
drops from 3 feet height

US: ASTM F963
Boiling Water Test
(Applicable to Tinted Lens)
Tinted lens is boiled in
water for a period of 15
minutes.

No fractured, crazed or
delaminated lens. Any
marking on the frame
should remain permanent
and legible.

All Countries: Visual Check
Boiling Salt Water and Cross-
Cut Adhesion Test
(Applicable to Coated Lens)
Coated lens is boiled in
1% saline water for a
period of 15 minutes. No
fractured lens.

Any marking on the lens
should remain permanent
and legible.
1 long X-cut is made in
the coating at the clean
and dried center position.

Any peeling or removal of
coating along the incisions
or at their intersection by
the tape should be not
more than 1/16.
US: ASTM D3359 (Mod.)
Visual Check

May 18, 2006

151

STANDARD #6-H
SUNGLASSES

TEST METHOD

ANALYTICAL
Toxicology
(Applicable For Plastic
Components)
MSDS document review
or must comply with
regulations of US FDA
food simulating solvent
extraction limits.

US: FDA 21 CFR 170-189
Cadmium In Plastic Component
(For California: Prop 65)

Not in excess of 0.08% Cd
by weight

US: EPA SW 846 Method #
3050B/3051
Lead In Plated Or Unplated
Metal Component
(Ca. Prop 65)

Not in excess of 0.02% Pb
by weight

US: EPA SW 846 Method #
3050B/3051
Phthalates
(For Children Items: Soft PVC)
The DEHP, DBP, BBP,
DINP, DNOP & DIDP
content shall be less than
0.1%.

US: ASTM D 3421-75
EU: 1999/815/EEC

PAHs
(For Rubber, PVC & Leather)
Shall comply with LMBG
section 30 and less than
10mg/kg

EU: Solvent Extraction By
GC/MS

May 18, 2006

152

ANCHOR BLUE - HARDLINES

Asia
USA Europe

Package
Pricing
JEWELRY $ 175.00 $ 295.00
FALSE
FALSE

FALSE
CORK BOARDS
Lead in Scrapable Surface Coating (per color) $ 50.00 $ 95.00
Additional Coating (per color) $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Toxicology - Food Contact (FDA) (Per Solvent) $ 295.00 $ 395.00

FALSE
INCANDESCENT LIGHTING FIXTURE $ 695.00 $ 995.00
FALSE

FALSE
FALSE
LIGHTING FIXTURE & PORTABLE LIGHTING $ 695.00 $ 995.00
FALSE

FALSE
FALSE
PORTABLE ELECTRIC LAMP $ 800.00 $ 1,125.00

ADDITIONAL TESTS
Lead in Scrapable Surface Coating (per color) $ 50.00 $ 95.00
Additional Coating (per color) $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Total Lead (each component) $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Nickel Leaching / Release $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Additional Size $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Additional Color $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Lead Content in PVC (per color) $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Corrosion Resistance $ 75.00 $ 125.00

May 18, 2006

153
Minimum Report Charge $ 23.00 $ 110.00

Note:
Additional / Failed tests will be retested at 30%
discount applied from regional lab price list.
India: Full regional prices
SGS Labs:
Asia: Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, Korea,
Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand
India: New Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Tirupur,
Thane (Bombay)
Middle East: Dubai, Egypt, Turkey
Central America: Guatemala
USA and Europe: UK, New Jersey, California
May 8, 2006

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