The Fashion Issue 2013
University for the Creative Arts, Rochester
BA (Hons) Photography, Contemporary Practice
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Some of the key takeaways are that fashion photography can be both artistic and narrative, and appears in magazines like Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. It can blur boundaries between art, portraiture and sculpture. Fashion photography is also judged based on both timeless aesthetic values and contemporary ideas of style.
Fashion photography can blur boundaries between art, portraiture and sculpture. It envelops these creative disciplines.
For fashion photography it is important to debate the combination of traditional ideas of how to construct a beautiful image and the contemporary character of the work, balancing established harmony and formal accomplishment with current relevance.
rochester
BA (HONS) PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEMPORARY PRACTICE
Fashion Photography First year showcase 2013 ISSUE ONE http://www.ucaphoto.co.uk rochester Fashion photography has earned itself a varied and misunderstood reputation. At it's most commercially intense, narratives are reduced to a relentless and ubiquitous mass-marketing mirror held up to the consumer. lt may (without apologyj be a shallow but beautiful pursuit, justifed by it's own sublime end. Equally at its most entertaining and inspiring fashion photography may be pure inspirational narrative and fantastical story telling. Its theatre is writ large upon the pages of venerable fashion journals such as Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and more recently the culturally challenging Tank, Dazed and Confused and Visionaire. The genre can blur the boundaries of art and sculpture. It envelopes portraiture, mimicking and satirizing the secular canons of celebrity. lt can speak of the mundane and domestic whilst engaging with the epic and fantastic: regardless, the narrative is a wholly invented artifce placing and staging the fgures into fabricated contexts and environments. Elaborate sets, cohesive styling, sympathetic casting and evocative lighting designs all help to heighten our emotional responses to the predetermined narratives. Fashion shoots are collaborative ofers generated with a range of interrelated art directors, creative artists, set builders, hair & makeup and fashion stylists. The project therefore asks our First Year students to demonstrate an efective and refective approach to project management: independently, collaboratively and as a member of a wider team of sourced talent. The successful fashion photographer needs to have the ability to move comfortably between all of these creative disciplines. Working in teams, students are asked to create a series of constructed fashion images, carefully considering how the sequencing can render a particular narrative. All this is undertaken in the studios at UCA Rochester, using industry standard equipment from Broncolor and Arri. The main aim of the project is to encourage our First Year to analyse the nature of photography and to increase their understanding of the way in which they and others create and construct meaning using the photographic medium. The project also aims to develop a appreciation of the importance of research, testing, pre-production and conceptual development prior to a photographic shoot. Cover, this page and following pages (Group 7) Photography: Jareth Fletcher-Miller, Jade Perry, Annie-Rose Peddie, Hazel Thompson Model: Lily Brothers Styling: Rebecca Slater, Kieran Oshea Hair & Make-up: Emily Long hen a photographic image associates itself with fashion it is subjected to a particular reading: this is independent from a direct association to clothes and accessories or a wider integration into a lifestyle industry. The 'fashion image' is almost exclusively assessed by its contemporariness: how up-to-date is it, does it cite a previous style or trend, what is the connection between the novelty of the pictorial content and an innovative visual language, etc.? The reception of the fashion image is obviously dependent on the forum in which it is viewed but the viewer will judge the impact of the image according to a combination of general aesthetic considerations and very contemporary ideas about style. This combination of eternal and transitory values constructs fashion as such: beauty lies both in the established harmony and formal accomplishment of the image or object as well as its currency for the present. For fashion photography it is paramount to debate such combination between traditional ideas of how to construct a beautiful image and the contemporary character of the work, being fully aware how feeting the latter is and playing on the relatively short lifespan of the photo. Fashion photography both in the narrow sense of an editorial in a magazine or online platformand in the wider sense of representing general trends is concerned with objects; more precisely, with the consumption of objects. Consequently, the way in which an object is shown and howit relates to the subject, either shown in the image or as intended beholder, becomes crucial. The forum in which the fashion image is reproduced is crucial. Today, the long-felt impact of fashion magazines becomes less and less pronounced vis--vis the profusion of fashion imagery across digital media, from virtual journals and viral adverts, via electronic art, to style blogs and the casual images within social media. The fashion image can now range from an extensively produced advert in a glossy magazine, via pictures shown in a contemporary art gallery and videos on the web to the seemingly accidental snapshots that appear in electronic diaries by trendspotters. Ideally, the fashion photographer is able to negotiate and play with this selection of forums and adapt contents, form and production techniques to the media in which the fashion image appears. Signifcantly, the dissemination of an image across platforms (e.g. the video documentation of a fashion shoot together with the editorial, or the sound recording of a performance in combination with visualsj ofers new ways of representing fashion. Professor Ulrich Lehmann Today the long-felt impact of fashion magazines is becoming less and less pronounced vis--vis the profusion of fashion imagery across digital media. w Photography: Dexter Bailey-Maison, Rajesh Bhusal, Hannah Broad, David Bromley, Thomas Meadows Model: Natalia Latsi Styling: Hannah Broad, Charlotte Dobson Hair & make-up: Thomas Meadows Dress by COS. Shoes, dress, coat & jumpsuit by Zara. Jacket by H&M. http://www.ucaphoto.co.uk rochester Photography at UCA is located in Rochester, Medway, a centre for the arts and regeneration, just forty minutes from London by train. We ofer excellent facilities and technical resources that are recognised internationally as among the best in the UK. The course houses the cutting edge analogue and digital facilities that puts us at the forefront of contemporary practice and provides you with access to industry standard practices. Students come from around the world to study photography at UCA Rochester and we have a global and local reputation. You will fnd a rich and diverse student body supported by a friendly but professional culture. Your own creative, technical, and intellectual evolution is supported and developed by a team of photographers, academics, guest lecturers, technicians and curators with national and international reputations. This degree provides you with essential skills and knowledge for your own professional and artistic photographic practice. We focus upon embedding core technical skills with creative innovation. We frmly believe in the entwined relation between theory and practice. Your technical, creative, research, conceptual and analytical skills are all developed in order to enhance your ability to work in your chosen area of photography. We support and encourage the growth of your own distinctive photographic voice. ln the frst year you develop technical, conceptual, and analytical skills through a range of projects investigating, space, time, memory, and narrative (story telling), you also work on the exciting fashion photography unit. ln the second year you increasingly develop and defne your practice. Project work is guided by staf but increasingly enables you to decide upon the subject matter and approach to your work. There are also work experience options that enable you to gain professional experience in the photographic industry. In the third year, you are treated as working professionals. Supported by staf and internationally recognised guest lecturers you have the creative freedom to drive your own photography and research projects. Overall, we want you to engage with photography to produce individual, innovative, creative responses that will form your professional portfolio and launch your careers. We hope that you will take the opportunity to fnd out more about what our degree has to ofer and we look forward to hearing from you. Course Philosophy This & following pages Photography; Agne Bekeraityte, Daniel Paul, Claire Smith, Robert Young Model: Melissa Rogers Styling: Barbara Rosol-Mojduszka Hair & Make-up: Designer: Barbara Rosol-Mojduszka. Coat designer: Sally Li. Shoes by Jones Bootmaker Previous pages Photography: Leva Gelezinyte, Kamil Raczynski, Robert Roach, Franceska Shirka Model: Olivia Ancell Styling: Franceska Shirka Hair & Make-up: Nikita Fuller rochester http://www.ucaphoto.co.uk Photography and Styling: Eleanor Ansell, Stepahanie Breeze, Louise Collins, Lily Santer Model: Lucia Caluori Hair and Make-up: Kat Papas Nightie: Primark. Tights: New Life. Underwear: Models Own. rochester THE COURSE Students come from around the world to study photography at UCA Rochester, and we have a global and local reputation. You will fnd a rich and diverse student body supported by a friendly but professional culture. Your own creative, technical, and intellectual evolution is supported and developed by a team of photographers, academics, guest lecturers, technicians and curators with national and international reputations. The course develops a professional environment that supports independent learning and thinking, preparing students to engage confdently with complex projects. lt aims to equip students with a sound academic foundation upon which they can develop their strengths, realise their potential, and engage professionally with their discipline. These attributes are also developed through the integration of business and professional practice, including problem solving, teamwork, time-management, copyright and intellectual property, communication and self-management, and opportunities for cross-disciplinary collaboration. The course takes a broad approach to photography. It aims to provide creative and academic experiences that prepare students for professional careers in photographic practice. We aim for our students to pursue a range of career destinations, working across the diversity of genres and territories embraced by contemporary practice. Overall, students are encouraged to take risks, explore and develop their interests, exchange, debate and discuss ideas, form creative alliances and pursue independent practice. They are encouraged to be curious, observant, responsible and understand their position in relation to their subject. They are encouraged to use their cultural and aesthetic knowledge and their moral, social and political compass to navigate these relationships. Graduates from this course will have embarked on a structured creative academic journey. They will draw upon a reservoir of cultural knowledge, be critical, curious, with a strong contextual understanding of contemporary photographic practice. They will have developed innovative methodologies, be confdent to pursue independent practice and collaborate and have a sophisticated visual language aligned to advanced technical skills. Most importantly they will be able to harness the power of photography to communicate and draw upon their cultural knowledge and interests. We trust that they will have something important to say in order to inform, challenge and captivate their audiences. CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Our graduates have photographic practices in editorial, advertising, fne art, curation, picture editing, digital retouching and flm production. Graduates also progress to postgraduate study and teacher training. HOW TO APPLY BA (Hons) Photography, Contemporary Practice Apply via UCAS: W642 R BA/CPP COURSE WEBSITE www.ucaphoto.co.uk www.rochesterpress.com www.ucreative.ac.uk/ba-photography-rochester FACILITIES Photography at UCA is located in Rochester, Medway, a centre for the arts and regeneration, just forty minutes from London by train. We ofer excellent facilities and technical resources that are recognised internationally as among the best in the UK. The campus ofers a well stocked library with access to books, flms, magazines and a host of online resources. We have a great canteen that provides home cooked food. In the summer you can enjoy your lunch on our terrace providing fantastic views over Rochester and the Medway river. Student accommodation is available near the campus. We engage in collaborations and exchange with a range of other disciplines based in Rochester and on other campuses of UCA, for example Fashion Design and CG Arts and Animation in Rochester, Architecture in Canterbury and the BA (Hons) Photography in Farnham. INDUSTRY LINKS AND GUEST LECTURERS This course benefts from the input of visiting lecturers who work within editorial, advertising and fne art industries and our excellent links support our students in gaining work experience with internationally renowned artists and commercial photographers, to undertake studio visits and get involved in live project briefs. Last summer fve of our students spend several weeks documenting life in London during the Olympics featured daily on the website of the Discovery Channel; this summer a group of students will undertake a road trip across several locations in the UK and France to document and photographically respond to sites that support the creative industries in their region as part of a European project. Guest lecturers & practioners include; Simon Roberts, photographer Wassink Lundgren, artist Rut Blees Luxemburg, artist Sheyi Bankale - editor & founder of Next Level Magazine Anne Braybon - commissions manager, National Portrait Gallery Bruno Ceschel - founder of Self Publish Be Happy Bridget Coaker - picture editor at The Guardian Louise Clements - artistic director of Format Festival Perry Curties - 125 Magazine Camilla Brown - Photographers Gallery Simon Bainbridge - British Journal Photography Charlotte Cotton - creative director, NMeM Martin Barnes - senior curator, v&A Daniel Campbell Blight - writer & critic Carole Evans - Portrait Salon Jonathan Worth - photographer, educator & NTF (HEAj Brad Feuerhelm - collector Harry Hardie - curator and publisher, Panos and Here on the Web Sue Steward - broadcaster, writer, critic and curator Christiane Monarchi - photomonitor Louise Clements, artistic director Format Festival & Quad Michael Diemar - private photography dealer, curator & consultant Matthew Shaul - curator / artistic director UH Galleries Sebastien Montabonel - post-war & contemporary art advisor
WHAT OUR STUDENTS SAY The Fashion Constructed Image unit really made me aware of new skills I had never considered at the beginning of the project. It helped me expand my knowledge of the ins and outs of running, building and designing a fashion shoot. The unit pushed me to exo|o|e a gen|e t|at / |ad ||tt|e conhdence |n but utimately enabled me to reach a successful outcome. Hazel Thompson "/ sta|ted t|e co0|se w|t| ||tt|e conhdence and d||ect|on and am quite amazed at my transformation. The staff were very intelligent and f0||y s0ooo|t|ve of my o|act|ce, o0||d|ng 0o my conhdence through encouragement and helping me to progress further through constant input and constructive criticism. Marinda Hudson Working on this fashion unit has really helped give me a new perspective on the world of fashion photography and of what really goes into creating and organising a photo shoot to communicate a narrative. The new skills I have learnt in pre and post production and the links I have made through collaboration with other students from the university have been invaluable. The experience of working with so many creative people was amazing and something I have a learnt a lot from being part of. Claire Smith FINDING OUT MORE If youd like to visit UCA Rochester for yourself and meet our staf, then why not come along to one of our open days? For more information and to book a place, go online at: www.ucreative.ac.uk/opendays For further information contact our Enquiries Service by telephone on 01634 888708 or email: [email protected] This publication has been produced collaboratively by students and staf on the course. association for photography in higher education aphe http://www.ucaphoto.co.uk