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Introduction
Why do we love to stitch? After all, you can purchase mass-produced embroidered items at many high street stores. These days, handmade means something special a unique item created with love, a gift from the heart, not one that can be bought. Hand stitching is also a great way to personalize an item, or even to breathe new life into an old favourite that has seen better days. Bustle & Sew offers my own unique patterns, designed to appeal to all skill levels and bring out the creativity in all of us. And you can keep up-to-date with all the latest news on the Bustle & Sew Blog. But none of this would mean anything without you, the stitcher. And it is thanks to the generosity of spirit of stitchers across the world that Ive been able to put together this free guide for you. PLEASE SHARE THE LOVE: I am happy for you to circulate this little book as widely as you wish with just two conditions: Firstly that you leave all links to my own and others websites and blogs in place so others can learn more about those lovely people whove shared their hints and tips so freely with us all. And secondly, it is not a commercial publication and must not be reproduced for resale in any form. Best wishes

Helen xx
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Contents
Getting Organised 4 7 12 18

Needle and Thread

Weird, Wonderful & Wise An Interesting Assortment

You can see a selection of Bustle & Sew designs on the left-hand side of these pages all these and loads more too, are available on the Bustle & Sew website.

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Getting Organised
I glued some stiff foam into the top of a hinged eyeglass case for my pins and needles; then added small scissors, bobbin of thread, thimble and other small sewing items. I just close it and I can carry it anywhere. It is really handy. I get the eyeglass case from my eye doctor when I get new glasses. Nancy Ive found it hard to get rid of used needles and rotary blades until one day I was tossing my lancet from my diabetes testing kit into my sharps container. The container is usually red with a wide mouth and clearly marked for needles, so its the perfect place to put dangerous pointy objects for disposal. Heather At the dollar store you can buy small bands for pony tails, these are excellent to put around the bobbins youre storing for future use. Barbara The best storage that I have found for all my regularly used sewing bits (needles, presser feet, safety pins, marker pens, D rings etc) is a fishing tackle box. They are inexpensive, come in all sizes and configurations, the little compartments separate all the little fiddly bits, they are easily portable and the deep section at the top can hold bigger items. Katherine Walsh We travel a lot and I am not one to just sit and stare out of the window, so I like to take projects with me. I have a metal clipboard, a strip of that magnetic tape that comes in a roll (to keep my place), and one of those little divided plastic boxes to put all of my needles, scissors, and threads in that I will be using. I also found a collapsible waste basket in the automotive section of the department store that has a strap to hang onto whatever is on the door or dashboard to put scraps in. This way I dont get bored, and I get something useful accomplished! Patti

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When completing any project keep a note of the name of the fabric and the number and type of thread used in the construction of the piece. If buttons are used in the design, then a spare button tucked inside is also a nice touch. I use a beautiful handmade book to record details of all my design work, perhaps one day my grandchildren will look back with pride and follow Harriets way. (Harriet was my grandmother and inspiration.) Amanda The plastic holders that you receive toys from in the gum ball machine make great thread holders for pearl cotton. Heat the tip of a nut pick to make a hole at the top of the clear section for the thread to slide through. Snack size zippy bags are perfect for holding floss. Keep a small pair of scissors with each project saves time in the looking. Small pizza boxes (new) are perfect for storing projects. Compact and you can label them on the outside edge. No more shoveling through bags and totes. Angela Prince-Bex www.thecountrycellar.blogspot.com When I start a new project, I always read and re -read all materials pertaining to the project and sometimes I reread it a third time, just to make sure I have all the materials I need and that I have completely understood everything. Minta Fung I made several supply wraps and separated the supplies for crewel, hand quilting, floss embroidery and appliqu. This way I am not hunting for the correct size needle or threader and can keep them with the current project. Rachel Bates www.dixdizzy.blogspot.com I like to keep small magnetic marbles in the dish of straight pins I put out while pinning fabric. That way, if the pins tip (and they often do!) they dont scatter everywhere! Ruth

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I bought a package of foam rollers to use as a pincushion for my threaded needles and to wrap the thread around when we travel. I thread my needles before we leave for our road trip, wrap the thread around the foam roller and stick in the needle. I do this for each color change I made need and I usually have enough done so that I do not have to try to thread a needle in a moving car. Sue Dodge To keep several needles going at the same time is a trial. Trying to remember which color is which. So I fold a piece of felt, 9 x 12 inches into quarters and tack it together. Then I put a piece of clear packing tape down the center. Now I write the color number and symbol if need be on small labels and stick them to the tape in two rows. I have been able to put up to 22 colors on my needle keeper at a time. I keep several of these around, so when I want to kit up a new project I already have a needle keeper ready. Kate Roland www.crazypurplemom.blogspot.com Good lighting for the evenings of late afternoon in autumn & winter. Have made the mistake of mixing up navy, black, dark blue far too many times for it to be funny. Also when shades are similar. Always use strand card to separate colours as its far too easy to get going, pulling out threads that then end up all tangled. Denise www.abigsmile4.blogspot.com When I am working on a project, I never seem to have anywhere to go with little snips of thread. I have starting saving prescription pill bottles to use as a catch-all. Its portable, small enough to place in your project bag and when it is full you can either throw it out or use the snips for art projects. Tammy I always keep a #10 crochet hook by my sewing machine. I use this exclusively for any required ripping and also for guiding pieces under the pressure foot when it is important that seams are lying in the right direction. Becky Sazama

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Needle and Thread

To keep thread, floss & yarn from tangling and knotting when sewing, every so often hold the tail of the medium with the needle dangling and let it unwind. Another trick to keep thread, floss & yarn from tangling and knotting when sewing is to thread it through a bit of beeswax before starting, or thread it through thick unscented and non-tinted lip balm. Elzabet Just a little thing really, when threading your needle hold the thread between your thumb and forefinger, have just a little peeking out, about of an inch, then lower the needle onto the thread, works every time for me. I was given this advice by a lady from the W.I. years ago. Lesleyann Bradford When working on a large embroidery design which uses the same color repeatedly yet in very different areas, try threading a few needles with the same color and work the different areas separately. Its especially helpful if completing a background (sky or trees for example) and eliminates long jump threads or repeated stops and starts. Linda Bickford My stitching went from rather messy to quite neat when I learned that when using stranded threads one should always remove each length one at a time and then bundle them together to stitch, ie to embroider using 4 threads cut off about 18 and then pull out four strands, one at a time. Bonnie Kane If you are having trouble threading your needle, flip it over and try again. Needles are now stamped out making a right and a wrong side to your needle. If you look at it carefully, you can see which is the ri ght side. Chrissy My tip is to always have really good light so that you can see the lines you are stitching. Good light really does make a difference. Carrie P. www.apassionforapplique.blogspot.com

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Find a sharp needle that suits you best. There are needles I can make perfect stitches with and needles that just dont work for me. It mainly has to do with the thickness and the length. Dont use too long a thread. My grandmother always taught me that if you use a long thread, you are a lazy crafter. With a long thread the thread gets into a knot faster. Be sure you have enough thread for the project you are working on. Colors with the same number can differ, especially variegated threads. Simone www.simonedeklerk.blogspot.com Always have your thread no longer than the length between you elbow and the tip of your finger. This avoids thread knotting up. Also, if your needle doesnt glide through your fabric just draw it through your hair and it will become sharper like magic. I learned these tips from my nana. Ann Brown www.anniebhandmade.blogspot.com My tip is an old one I have used for quite a while. I thread several needles at one time so I dont have to stop and try to thread a needle when I am wanting to sew. Patty When stitching requires two threads, cut about twice the length you normally would, take one strand/thread and fold in half. Thread the two cut ends through the eye of the needle, then make your first stitch. When passing the needle to the back of the fabric, be sure to go through the loop you have created and your stitch is held securely as well as neatly. No knots or oversewing is necessary and your stitch lies very flat. Jackie Boyer www.lavenderjack.wordpress.com Try and keep your thread about 18 long so it does not fray. Linne Middleton When working with metallic thread, place in the fridge for a few hours. Works wonders. Chris

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I just recently used a curved needle for basting a quilt sandwich and found that it is the best way to do that task. I can recommend Dritz needles. Using the curved needle doesnt move the layers and makes sewing them easier. Joanna Perry I find it is very important to choose the right needle for the job right from the get-go. It can mean all the difference between success and failure. A needle that is too small for your thread will be difficult to pull through and will be hard to thread. One that is too large will leave holes in the fabric. I love John James embroidery needles! I usually keep a few packages of the assorted 5 to 10 with 16 to a pack on hand and these will do me for all my embroidery tasks! Sandra Rocca For hand sewing or hand quilting, I find that beeswax is a must for keeping your thread from developing a tangled knot. Simply run your thread along the edge of a piece of beeswax (in a sewing notions store you can purchase a handy little container) and your thread will glide through your fabric so easily. Katherine Hawkes If using stranded floss to do your work, separate each strand from the whole and then put them back together to get more fluff from the threads and better coverage. Try to be sure to put them back together in the original orientation (ie which end was cut.) If threads are too fluffy to put through the eye of your needle, fold them over the needle and pinch between your fingers to fit through the eye. Learn about needle technology and learn to use the right kind of needle and the right size for your job/thread. Learn how t estimate how much of your hand working time a task will take so you can evaluate whether to do the job by hand or machine reserve your hand stitching for tasks that are worthy of the effort. Linda Schiffer My father showed me how to twist the wetted thread around my finger tip and roll it so that when rolled off the tip of my finger it was knotted. When I was small I thought it was amazing he ould do that and begged him to show me how. Wendy D

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My Oma taught me the best way to thread a needle when one is using yarn/embroidery floss etc. Fold the floss over the needle pinch it tight between your thumb and index finger, then slide the eye of the needle right down over the thread. Works every time! Gwen Mine is a simple tip, but it helps keep everything neat. When using an even number of strands, try a loop knot to start. Fold the floss in half and insert the two ends through the needle so one strand looks like two, and has a loop at the end. On the first stitch, leave a little bit of the loop on the back, and when the needle comes back down, pass it through the loop. This secures the thread strongly and doesnt leave any messy ends. Kylie Seymour-Clarke www.persnickety-chickadee.net/wordpress Thanks also to Dianna Hamilton and Simone Whipp (www.simonelindengrove.blogspot.com) for sending in the same tip as Kylie. I make a habit of trying my threads and yarns in different ways. I recently crocheted with some DMC variegated floss. It made beautiful medallions for use in my project. Ive embroidered with thin knitting yarn. I like mixing things up! Lori One thing that is very important to me when stitching is to use a thread conditioner to keep my thread from tangling and fraying so fast. I had never given it a thought until a friend gave me some as a gift and it is truly wonderful! Cheryl Ashmore To separate your stranded embroidery threads (eg DMC) cut thread to length. Hold threads about 1 cm down from top. Separate threads a bit and take hold of one thread. Gently pull out of bundle with one hand while still holding the rest of the threads in the other hand. You will need to then run your fingers down rest of threads to straighten them. Repeat for each single thread you need. This stops all the tangling up of the threads when separating them. Christine MacDonald www.macdonaldspatch.blogspot.com

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When learning embroidery at school (those were the days! And Im not THAT old!) the very strict Head Mistress would say spit wont get you through the desert, and it wont get you through my sewing class. We were taught that instead of licking the embroidery thread to get it through the eye of the needle we should pinch it between thumb and forefinger and press the eye of the needle onto it. Bronwyn David When trying to thread a needle, wet the eye of the needle, not the thread. I am not sure why, but it makes it so much easier to get the thread thru the needle. Annelies Using the right size and type of needle is important to get the best results in your work. Also, dont cheap out on your needles, you want them to be nice and sharp for smooth, easy action. Miranda Portaman-Secuurs Ive been stitching for years and only just learned this one recently: theres a wrong side and a right side to the needle! Not sharp vs dull but back to front! If you are finding it hard to thread a needle, flip it over! The eyes are punched and so the thread goes easier through the one side than the ot her! Margaret in VA

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Weird, wonderful .. and wise

I keep the back of my embroidery work neat by not allowing thread to travel more than or 3/8 inch. Instead I flip my work over, and weave the thread over to the new starting point and begin again from there. This also keeps thread from showing through to the front of an embroidery (important when working lightweight, pale fabrics). I realize that there are greatly differing opinions on how neat the back of ones embroidery should be, but i f embroidering on bed linens which will be taken on/off beds or pillows, its imperative that there not be big loops of thread on which someones fingernail, finger or jewelry could become snagged. That could ruin hours of effort. Lauren (aka Giddy) My favorite hint was to put a little super glue the wires where they connect to the metal tag on your needle threaders. I have only broken one needle threader since I heard this hint. Karol If you cant make very regular embroidery stitches, try starching the fabric. Aaltje Alting When you need to press your finished embroidery, place a towel, then you piece of work with the right side next to the towel then press with iron. This should prevent your work becoming flat. Also when doing satin stitch, work your needle between the fabric and the thread to create an even piece of work. Jenny Southey To keep an older wooden embroidery hoop from getting too loose to use, try wrapping a thin strip of muslin around the top hoop and secure it with a few threads. I tried it; it works! Deborah Robertson www.deborahmarie.wordpress.com

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I do embroidery (mainly on my crazy quilting) and a lot of sewing. In addition I cannot pass by a yard sale or thrift store without stopping to look for old laces, linens and sewing goodies! Therefore I have collected a large number of old wooden spools of thread, some empty and some half-used. As I hate for anything to go to waste, I like to use this old thread (which would be unwise to use in new projects) in my machine to sew a zig-zag or even satin stitch around any block or piece of needlework I am stitching on. A double purpose is served: the block of stitching is secured from unraveling and I have used some old thread! Cathy Kizerian www.cathyscrazybydesign.blogspot.com Left Handed embroidery trick! If you are left -handed and only have pictures of right-handed examples, turn the page with the diagrams upside down. Continue as in the examples. Janet Selman My Grandmama taught me to embroider, sew and knit amongst other wonderful crafts. Her best advice was always to take your time. Youll make fewer mistakes. She also counseled against frustration when you do make a mistake. She firmly believed mistakes make you smarter. Becky Stancill If you dont have to be too precise when copying patterns, this might be a tip for you. Crayola washable markers are great as well as cheaper brands. The tips arent as small as a pencil, but will wash out of most cotton fabric by just soaking in a little soap and cold water. I have had trouble removing pencil marks. This is for ladies who always have to wash their finished work like I do. Remember to test your fabric with the markers first. Iris McGregor This is a bit different, but I promise it works! I was told by an elderly quilter that if you are stitching and prick your finger and get a little spot of blood on your work, you take a white cotton thread and chew a minute on it till its moist, then dab and dab the work it takes the blood out!! Yep, weird, but it sure works!! Its enzymes that do the work. The material has to be cotton also. I have done this on quilting and embroideries. Diane

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When I first started stitching, I found it difficult to get all my back stitches the same size and looking neat. I tried stem stitch and now I use it all the time. I find it gives a lovely flowing look and I think it would be a good stitch for beginners. Try it and see what you think! Gill Smith When stitching on black Aida cloth, place a piece of white cotton in your lap and work over that. The white will show through the holes in the black Aida and give your eyes a rest. Burtine Kendall When I first learned how to embroider, the best tip I got was to make sure the back was as neat as the front. Ive been so glad I learned that and practiced it. No matter how thin the fabric Im stitching on, I never have thread tails showing through the front, or a line of floss carrying over to another element of the design. Another tip Im glad I learned was to unwrap all of my floss and wind it on cardboard or plastic bobbins those little floss cards. I keep all of my floss organized by color and I can find the perfect shade right away. Its no fun rooting through a messy basket of loose floss. Also, I never use a hoop I just take my time and never pull taut. I use a wonderful backing on all of my pieces, its called Shape-Flex by Pellon a fusible muslin that gives great body to my piece without bulk. Using this I can stitch on any kind of fabric. Allie Hartom www.allie-oopssweethappylife.blogspot.com Masking tape is a great way to cover raw edges so they wont unravel when you are stitching. Linda Granger Ive learned to add an additional piece of fabric (a piece of old sheet or muslin) to the back of my embroidery project before starting. It adds some body and hides all those back of the project stitches. You just need to squish a little harder to get two layers into the hoop. Penelope

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This may be something that everybody already knows, but when my mother taught me to embroider, she explained what, for me, has been a very helpful tip: when youre having trouble getting the needle to come up in just the right spot for example when working extremely small stitches or when the canvas is already quite crowded and you cant see well or stitch without catching other threads accidentally stick the needle in from the top of the fabric where you can see exactly where youre putting it and wiggle it around for a moment. Then take it back out again without making a stitch. When you remove it the hole youve made will stay open long enough for you to take the needle round to the back again and poke it up through the hole easily in the exact right spot. Cecilia The first craft I learned was hand embroidery at the age of 6. My grandmother taught me and she would make me so mad, because I would have to rip it out or do it over until I got it right. Was not a happy little girl, but she impressed on me that if you do it right the first time and take small stitches you will have a beautiful stitchery. Sixty some years later, still doing embroidery and loving it. People will comment on how beautiful my stitching is, and it all goes back to dear old grandma and practice, practice, practice. Pat Merton The one tip my Grandma always told me was in cross stitching not to turn your work and keep all the slants the same way with the same tension. For some reason I had a hard time doing that even on the gingham fabrics. Dee Dee www.deedeescraftspot.blogspot.com If working a design area of pulled thread or wrapped bars for a project, try to complete the pulling or wrapping of threads in one complete area on the same day. Your pulling tension may change day to day due to your mood. By finishing a complete area at least it will be uniform. To revive the lustre of your embroidery floss take one tablespoon of white vinegar to one cup of cold water. Soak a clean sponge in the liquid and dab your floss lightly.

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Matted and tangled floss need not be thrown away. Spread it out on a cookie sheet and freeze. It comes out like new. For the late night stitcher: You know it is time for bed when you stitch your nightgown to your piece and you have to decide whether to cut the nightgown or the stitches!! My grandmother told me: It is always advisable to use only the best materials you can afford. Your time is too valuable to waste on anything less. Shari Jensen www.mentorandangels.blogspot.com When coloring in on your embroidery, color in all the same direction as you go, and use good crayons and color a lot darker than you want as some of the color will iron out. Dee Shaw I have seen excellent results in embroidery by just using chain stitch for filling solids It can feel a lot easier to do than satin stitch which can look a little untidy. If you have a shape to fill you can go up and down in what is effectively stripes. Or if you have a circle or leaf shape, you can fill it by chaining round the edge, then filling in the inside with ever decreasing circles. Karen I know this is very basic, but I like to press the fabric smooth before placing it in a hoop. I have better luck with smoother stitches. I dont use starch or sizing on it, just a good pressing to smooth out any wrinkles in the fabric. Linda

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An Interesting Assortment
My tip is a quilting tip. When cutting your fabric out, spray the back with starch, you will get a crisper cut when cutting out. Carla Join a group of stitchers with the same interest as you. You can learn from each other and give tips and pointers while you are working on your project. Ask at your local embroidery store or quilt shop if they know a group you can join. Use the internet there are thousands of possibilities on there. Links to other stitchers websites and blogs, patterns, tutorials, classes etc. Join online forums and meet online with other embroiders. Annemie Rook When gathering, put a different color thread in the bobbin, and its easy to see which thread to pull, and easy to remove. When lining an outfit, cut the hem of the lining to shorter than the garment so it wont show after washing. Keep a technique notebook. Every time you read or hear about a technique youd like, copy it or write it down in the notebook. Then you know where to go look when you cant remember what it was! Debra Parker Dont throw away scraps, even the last little piece can be made into a wonderful work with more stitching. Make cards or other tiny projects. Elfriede www.stoffkatze.blogspot.com When working with fur (making toys etc) use a sharp pair of scissors and cut from the wrong side of the fabric, in between the fur so that you cut as little as possible. Then put the right sides together, smoothing the fur away from the edge. Overstitch the fabric together, then stitch. If you do that, then when you turn the fabric the right way out, you should be able to see the seams, and you shouldnt have to pull any fur out of the seams. Beth Butcher www.bethbutcher.wordpress.com

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When I make quilts I love to miter my edges so they are nice and neat. To keep children safe I always go back and run a stitch over them so they are completely closed off. This helps keep those little fingers from going into them and gives the quilt a little more stability. Glenda Maphis When I sew, I do it very slowly as I taught myself but I do remember my mother saying that if you base your project (if the pattern says to) it will be easier to adjust the pieces of the project youre making. Also, I make sure when quilting, or making something new that Ive never tried before, to sew with a decent sized stitch that would be easy to rip out if I make a mistake. Linda Vitzthum Patchwork: when you have chosen a fabric, look at the dots on the selvedge and any of those colours will go with what you have chosen. Some fabrics can be deceiving when trying to sort darks, lights and mediums cut small samples and attach to paper, then photocopy. For more control on sewing machine turn your foot pedal round and press down on heel instead of toe. Marion Pidgeon From my mother: Sewing on buttons (by hand); making a small shank. After youve finished going forwards and backwards through the holes in the button, firmly wrap the thread several times around the threads between the base of the button and the fabric, then take your needle through to the back of the fabric and sew a couple of tiny back stitches before cutting off the leftover thread. Sewing on buttons (by hand); making a bigger shank. Before you start sewing on the button put a matchstick between it and the fabric, so that the button stands proud. When youve finished going forwards and backwards through the holes, remove the matchstick and firmly wrap the remaining thread several times around the threads that link the base of the button to the fabric, then take your needle through to the back of the fabric and sew a couple of tiny back stitches before cutting off the leftover thread. Kate Makowiecka

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When attaching strands of wool to dolls head as hair, use sticky tape to arrange and position strands on first, and then put on h ead to sew on. Carola No need to conform to a pattern 100%. There are many easy ways and short cuts and the end result will still be achieved. Whenever I make a dress I press after every seam. The result is much more pleasing, and the rest of the sewing more accurate. Margie Buys If a mistake is made, stop and correct it, otherwise they tend to compound and grow. Anne V When working with children and you want them to use a template to cut out a shape on fabric, photocopy the design onto plain wh ite paper and use artists spray mount to temporarily stick the pattern to the fabric. It makes it easier to cut the design and no need for pins. The paper peels off the fabric very easily! Lyn Robinson www.lyn-everydaylife.blogspot.com I think the best tip I have heard in a long time is to put a scrap piece of batting over your shoulder (like a burp cloth) and toss your threads onto it. That way they dont end up all over the floor. Linda E When making very small stuffed animals and toys that need to stand up, put a penny or a two pence piece in their bottom to weigh them down. Holly Dawes www.holloughby.blogspot.com

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If youve enjoyed this free book, then you might like to try The Stitchers Companion, my new book with over 100 pages of stitching facts, figures and know-how. All the stitching wisdom I learned from my mum and grandma knowledge handed down through the generations, plus up-to-date developments, such as understanding and using your pdf downloadable pattern. Everything youve always wanted to know, but never liked to ask in one easy -todownload and print book.

For just $19.97 youll receive a comprehensive book full of hints, tips and secrets to help you make you the very best stitcher you can be. The Stitchers Companion includes: Fabric facts identifying fibres and choosing the right fabric for any project Anatomy of fabric FQ, selvedge and weave Matching needle to floss How to make sure your project isnt spoiled by laundering Easy-to-follow diagrams for working embroidery stitches How to transfer your design from printed pattern to fabric Why and how to use an embroidery hoop Framing and finishing your project All the hints and tips in this little free version

Visit www.thestitcherscompanion.com to learn more

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A bit about Bustle & Sew .

I started my online pattern business, Bustle & Sew in 2009. I create patterns that are lively, interesting and fresh, and that I hope will inspire others to pick up fabric and thread to produce their own piece of work, with all the sense of achievement and satisfaction that brings. I love stitching and am passionate about sharing with others through my blog and online magazine. My Bustle & Sew Magazine is a quirky online publication, published monthly. It contains at least three new Bustle & Sew patterns every issue, plus guest contributors, vintage knitting & crochet patterns, articles and more. Please do take a moment to check it out here.

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