Huc - 02 A Journey Through The Chinese Empire (1855)

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES
A JOURNEY THROUGH
THE CHINESE EMPIRE,
BY
M,
H U
C,
AUTHOR OF
RECOLLECTIONS OF A JOURNEY THROUGH TARTARY
AND
THIBET."
IN
TWO VOLUMES.
VOL.
II.
NEW YORK:
HARPER
&
BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SgUARK.
'
707
CONTENTS
THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER
I.
Cop.
a,
Dangerous Illness Mandarins' Prescriptions Visit of the Doctor Theory of the Pulse Apothecaries in China Trade in Medicine Increase of the Malady Acupuncture The Supernatural Treasure of Red Pills Experimental Medicine Origin and History of the Cholera in China Free Practice of Medicine Good Effects of Red Pills Cure Terrible Law of Responsibility Tragic Story Kind Attention of the Prefect of Kuen-kiang-hien Fondness of the Chinese for Coffins Journey of a Sick Man by the Side of his Bier Calmness and Tranquillity of the Chinese at the Moment of DeathVisit to our Coffin Departure from Kuen-kiang-hien 7
CHAPTER
Visit of the
II.
Mandarins of Tien-men Their Attention to us Fame of Tien-men for the Number and Beauty of its Water-melons Extensive Use of the Water-melon Seed Caustic Humor of a young MiliThe Inhabitants of Sse-tchouen treated as Strangers tary Mandarin in the Province of Hou-pe Prejudices of Europeans with regard to Chinese The Manner in which most Works on China are composed True View of the supposed Immobility of the Orientals Revolutions in the Chinese Empire Socialist School in the Eleventh Century Account of their System Long and severe Struggle TransCauses of the Barbarian Invasions. 44 portation of Tartar Agitators
CHAPTER
Arrival at Han-tchouan
III.
disgraced Mandarin Liberty enjoyed by the Chinese Association against Gamblers Society of the Old Bull Liberty of the Press Public Lectures European Prejudice concerning the Despotism of Asiatic Governments Carelessness of Magistrates Remembrance of the Sufferings of the venerable Perboyre Navigation of a Lake Floating Islands
Custom of presenting a Pair of Boots to a Placards and Advertisements Privileges and
iv
CONTENTS.
Population of China
ing
Some
yang
We
Its Causes :uni Dangers Cormorant PishDetails of Chinese Manners Bad Reception at Hanfollow a wrong Course Passage of the Yang-tse-kiang
,.
Arrival at Ou-tchang-fou
74
CHAPTER
Bad Lodging
IV.
in a Little Pagoda Ou-tchang-fou, Capital of Hou-Pe Limits of the Chinese Empire Mountains Rivers Lakes Climate Principal Productions Chinese Industry Causes of its Decline Former Exhibitions of the Productions of Arts Relations of the Chinese with Foreigners Present State of their Commerce with Europeans Internal Trade of China Interest of Money System of Chinese Economists upon Interest of Thirty per cent. Pecuniary Immense Commercial Mart in the Centre of the Empire Societies System of Canals Aptitude of the Chinese for Commerce Monetary System Influence of the Sapeck Infinitesimal Trade.... 109
CHAPTER
Attempt
to see the
V.
Governor of the Province
We force the Guard of his
The Governor of Hou-pe' Conversation with this exalted Personage Good Result of the Visit Moving Courtesy of a Cook Adieus of Master Ting, and the Sse-tchouen Escort The Mandarin Lieou, or the " Weeping Willow," Chief of the new Escort
Palace
Fine Arts Religion Chinese Architecture Towers Pagodas Doctrine of the Literary Class Great Honors rendered to Confucius Doctors of Reason Life and Opinions of the Philosopher Lao-tze Buddhism Legend of Buddha Dogmas and Moral Precepts Buddhists persecuted by the Brahmins Causes of these Persecutions Dispersion of the Buddhists through the various Countries of 148 Asia .., ,.
CHAPTER
VI.
All Religions condemned by the Chinese Government Formulas of Skepticism Condition of the Bonzes of China Buddhist Monasteries Religious Architecture Temple of Pou-Tou Library of the Monastery Visit to the Superior of the Bonzes Profound Respect of the Chinese for Writing Convent of Bonzesses Ceremonies to Death of a recall the Souls of the Dying when they are escaping young Bachelor Mourning of the Chinese Singular Mode of lamenting the Dead Interments Worship of Ancestors Chinese Classification of various Ages of Life Marriage in China Servitude of Women Discord in Domestic Life Examples Sect of ISO Abstinent Women ..
,
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
VII.
Departure from the Capital of Hou-pe Farewell Visit to the Governor of the Town Burial of the two Martyrs State of Christianity in Hou-pe Disagreeable Incidents on the Road No Provisions in a Town of the third Order Visit to the Palace of the Town Prefect Treatment of Criminals Horrible. Details of a Trial The Kouankouen, or Chinese Bandit Mode of administering Justice Code of Laws General Considerations upon Chinese Legislation Penal and materialistic Character of the Code Defect of Precision in certain Laws Principle of Solidarity Laws relating to Officers of Government Organization of the Family Repression of Crime Ritual Laws Taxes and Territorial Property 229
CHAPTER
VIII.
Storm Government Couriers Departure from Kouang-tsi-hien Mode of Epistolary Correspondence Grand Festival at Hoang-meihien Fire-works Chinese Music Idea we ought to have of the Music of the Ancient Chinese Imperial Road to Pekin The Roads in China Halt upon the Borders of Lake Pou-yang Embarkation Kakkeiiacs on board the Junk Glance over the Province of Hou-pe'
Details conAgriculture in China Imperial Festival of Labor cerning Agriculture Agricultural Productions The Bamboo The Water Lily Imperial Rice Observant Character of the Chinese Classification of Corn What becomes of the Swallows during Winter Manner of making a Cat tell the Time Method of hindering Asses from Braying 268
CHAPTER
Navigation of the Pou-yang
IX.
Pauperism in China
tuitous Coffins
of Junks Desert Tracts Bands of Mendicants Society for Gra-
Great
Number
The King of the Beggars The Hens' Feathers Inn Gaming Various Chinese Games Mode of studying the Law against Gamblers Drunkenness The Vine,
Causes of Pauperism
Infanticide Its Causes Truth and Exaggeration concerning Infanticide in China Yu-j'ng-tang, or FoundEdict against Infanticide Work of the Society of the ling Hospital
Wine, and Corn Brandy
Holy Infancy
307
CHAPTER
The Vinegar Polypus
X.
Uncultivated Tracts in the Province of Kiang-si

ter-melons Arrival self in the Palace of Literary Composition
The Guard-house The Mandarin and his Steed Theft of Waat Nan-tchang-fou Mode of installing one's
Solemn Public Supper
%.
CONTENTS.
Disappointment of the Spectators Visit of the Prefect of the A Mongol Mandarin His geographical Knowledge Labors of the Protestant Methodists in China Chinese Astronomers Aspect of the Capital of Kiang-si Manufacture of Porcelain Chinese Antiquaries Origin of the God of Porcelain Pisciculture in Kiangsi New traveling Arrangements 342
Town
CHAPTER XL
Mandarin Junk Comfort and Departure from Nan-tchang-fou Luxut j of Water-carriage Vehicles and Hotels Fiacre and CabriChinese Light Literature Collections of Maxolet stands at Pekin ims and Proverbs Passage of the Mountain Mei-ling Nan-hioung, the Frontier Town Chinese Rope-dancers Little Feet of the Women Origin of this Custom Navigation of the Tigris Recollections of our Entry into China in 1840 View of the Port of Canton European Vessels First Night in Canton Our Martyrdom in Tartary Savings on the Road bestowed upon our Servant Wei-chan Stay at Macao Death of M. Gabet Departure for Pekin Arri369 val at Marseilles in 1852..., ..
JOURNEY
THROUGH THE
CHIIESE EMPIRE.
CHAPTER
I.
Dangerous Illness Mandarins' Prescriptions Visit of the Doctor Theory of the Pulse Apothecaries in China Trade in Medicine Increase of the Malady Acupuncture The Supernatural Treasure of Red Pills Experimental Medicine Origin and History of the Cholera in China Free Practice of Medicine Good Effects of Red Pills Cure Terrible Law of Responsibility Tragic Story -Kind Attention of the Prefect of Kuen-kiang-hien Fondness of the Chinese for Coffins
Journey of a Sick Man by the Side of his Bier Calmness and Tranquillity of the Chinese at the Moment of Death Visit to our Coffin Departure from Kuen-kiang-hien.
IT
is
common
to
ing possessed joyments of this

all
by man
life
say that health is the greatest blesshere below; and in fact the enare so fragile
and
fugitive, that
vanish at the approach of the slightest infirmthey But for the exile, for the traveler, wandering in ity.
distant lands, health is not merely a
good
it is
a quite
inestimable treasure
for
it
is
a mournful and bitter
thing to be attacked by illness in a foreign country, far from relations or friends, and surrounded by persons to
whom you are a source of annoyance, and who only regard you with indifference, or even with aversion. What a frightful and desperate situation would it be for
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
one who counted only on the help of man, and had the misfortune of not knowing how to find in God his support and consolation.
Our long journey

kind
so full of vicissitudes of every
had hitherto been at least free from this trial. In Tartary and Thibet we had been threatened with
being starved or frozen to death, devoured by wild beasts, murdered by robbers, or crushed by the fall of
avalanches; a single step would often have been sufficient to plunge us from the top of a mountain into a
frightful abyss.
In China, executioners had displayed before us the instruments of their atrocious tortures ; an angry popurisen in insurrection around us arid, finally, a in had us the waters. After tempest nearly engulphed so often had death under various forms so near having us, it only remained to see him standing quietly at our bed-foot, ready to take possession in the most ordinary forms of a prey that had so often escaped him, and for two whole days it pleased God to leave before our eyes
lace
;
had
this
melancholy vision. the very evening of our arrival at Kuen-kiang/iien, and while we were receiving the visit of the principal magistrates of the town, we were suddenly seized with violent vomitings, accompanied by most acute pains It seemed really as if a general dein the stomach. were composition going on in our frame, from head to foot ; and we were forced to go to bed. The doctor was
On
sent for; the most renowned doctor, it was said, of the whole country; a man accustomed to perform prodigies, and cure with the greatest ease all sorts of incurable maladies. While waiting the arrival of this marvelous doctor, in whom we were far from feeling the most absolute confidence, the Mandarins of our escort, and those of Kuen-kiang-hien, discoursed with much learning and

sang-froid on the cause of our
l)e
illness,
and the means
to
employed for its cure. We have said that the Chinese were, in virtue of their temperament, essentially actors and cooks we may add
;
also that they are something of doctors. Every one of the company delivered his opinion of our condition in
the most technical terms, and it was settled Tby the obliging members of this impromptu consultation that
our "noble and illustrious malady proceeded from a disturbance in the equilibrium of the vital spirits." The
igneous principle, they thought, too long fed
by
the ex-
cessive heat, had ended by exceeding beyond all measure the proper bounds assigned to it, and that, conse-
quently, a
fire,
so to speak, had been kindled in the
sublime organization of our body. Consequently also the aqueous elements had been dried up to such a degree that there no longer remained to the members and organs the humidity necessary to the performance of
their natural functions
thence proceeded those vomit; in and that generally disthose the stomach, pains ings, ordered state which it was easy to perceive in our face,
and which produced such violent contortions. In order to re-establish the said equilibrium there
needed only to be introduced into the body a certain quantity of cold, and to lower the extravagant temperature of this igneous principle ; therefore it was necessary to favor the return of moisture into all the members.
established,
In this manner health would be immediately reand we might resume our journey ; being,
hoAvever, very careful not to permit the igneous principle to develope itself to the point of absorbing the
aqueous principle.
There was a very simple method
of bringing back into the body this beautiful harmony. Every body knew that green peas are of an extremely
cold nature
;
a certain quantity was therefore to be put
10
on to boil, we were to drink the liquor, and by that means the fire would be put out. i A Mandarin of Kuen-kiang-hien suggested that nevertheless we must use this liquor with great moderation
occasioning too great a chill ; but Master Ting interposed, saying that we might, without any danger, take twice the ordinary dose of it, as he had refor fear of
er than that of a Chinese.

this
marked that our temperament was incomparably warmIt was also decided that for
purpose of restoring the humidity necessary for the harmonious action of the organs, there was nothing better than boiled cucumbers and water-melons.
It was finally therefore agreed unanimously, that nothing more was necessary than green peas, boiled cucumbers, and water-melons, to set us on our feet again, and enable us to pursue our journey ; and in the mean time
The ceremonious, yet perfectly easy in which he presented himself, pointed him out He as a man who passed his time in paying visits.
the doctor arrived.
manner
was a little roundabout man with a pleasing countenance, and of a redundant plumpness calculated to afford the most advantageous ideas of his hygeienic principles : and a pair of great spectacles seated on a very
rudimentary kind of nose, and tied behind his ears with a silk cord, gave him quite a finished medical air. A small gray beard and mustaches, and hair of the same
little
behind in a pig-tail, afforded additional evidence of long experience in the art of healing. As he approached our bed, he gave utterance to some aphorisms that did not seem to us altogether worthless.
color tied
"I have
tient
was born
learned," said he, "that the illustrious pain the countries of the west. It is writ-
ten in the books that maladies vaiy according to the country ; those of the north do not resemble those of the
south
every nation has some that are peculiar to
it,
11
and every country produces particular remedies, adapted to the ordinary infirmities of its inhabitants. The skillful physician ought to distinguish different temperaments, in order to understand the true character of maladies and prescribe suitable medicaments ; it is in this that his science consists. must take good care not to treat the men of the Western Seas in the same man-
We
ner as the
laid
men
of the Central Nation."
After having
these principles, with very striking inflexions of voice, and abundance of gesticulation, he drew toward him a bamboo arm-chair and seated himself by the
down
He then asked for our right arm, and a small cushion he began to feel the on having pulse by playing on it with all his fingers as if he were The Chinese consider that there playing the pianoforte.
side of our bed.
laid
it
are different pulses corresponding to the heart, the livTo feel the pulse er, and the other principal organs.
well you
must feel them all one after the other, and sometimes several together, in order to understand their several relations. During this operation, which lasted a very long while, the doctor appeared plunged in profound meditation he did not speak one word, but kept his head bent down, and his eyes fixed on the points of
;
his shoes.
When
taken,
the right arm had had its turn, the left was and the same ceremonies performed with it and
;
then at length the doctor majestically raised his head, stroked his beard and mustaches two or three times,
and pronounced the sentence:
"By
some means
or
other," said he, shaking his head, "the cold air has penetrated into the interior, and has put itself in opposition,
in
many of the organs, with the igneous principle; thence arises the struggle, Avhich must necessarily manifest itself by vomitings and convulsions ; we must therefore
combat the
evil
with
warm
substances."
12
The Mandarins, who a minute before had

the contrary, did not ion of the physician.
is
fail to
said precisely
agree entirely with the opin-
" That's the thing," said Ting, "it is evident there a struggle between the cold and the heat ; these two principles are not in harmony, and what is wanted is to make them agree that's just what we were think;
ing."
The physician then went on: "The nature

malady
is
of
this noble
such that
it
may
yield with facil-
ity to the virtue of the medicines,
and disappear very and, also, it is quite possible that it- may resist, and that the danger may increase. This is my opinion on the subject after having studied the various characsoon
;
ters of the pulse."
This opinion did not appear to us an extremely hazardous one, or likely in any case to compromise seriously the person
rest
who
delivered
it.
"You must
"and
have
and quiet," continued the
doctor,
take every
hour a dose of the medicine I
As he spoke
little
am going to prescribe." he rose, and went to seat himself at a
where writing materials had been prelearned man then dipped in a cup of tea the end of a little stick of Indian ink, which he rubbed on a dish of black stone, then seized a pencil, and began to trace the prescription on a large sheet of paper. He wrote a large page, and when he had finished, he took his paper, read it again attentively in a low voice, and then came to us and communicated its contents. He placed the prescription under our eyes, then extending toward it the first finger of his right hand, termtable,
pared.
The
inated
by a
nail of frightful Jength, lie pointed to the
characters he
full
much
had just written, and gave us by degrees did not understand explanation of them. of what he said, for the violent headache with
We
which we were tormented hindered us from following
13
the thread of his learned dissertation on the properties and virtues of the numerous ingredients that went to compose the medicine besides, the little attention of which we were capable was entirely absorbed by the that went wandering over sight- of that prodigious nail, characters. We made out, howmass of Chinese the of the that the basis ever, remedy was rhubarb and and Jcapi ; besides these articles, orange-peel, tahoang a variety of powders, leaves, and roots, were to enter Each kind of drug was specially into its composition. act a to on particular organ, in order to bring charged about the desired result, and the aggregate of their
;
operations to effect the prompt re-establishment of our

health.
It is
customary to
;
boil the drugs together in a vase
the water has, by a long ebullition, sufficiently assimilated their medicinal properties, the patient is made to swallow it as hot as posof baked clay
and,
when
Chinese medicine is almost always of an oily this very and of a very dark, yellowish color nature,
sible.
;
uninviting appearance proceeds from a certain fatty black substance that the physicians have the good taste to introduce into all their prescriptions ; however, if one
can get over the unpleasant look of them, these medicines are seldom very difficult to take ; they have mostly an insipid sweetish taste, and are never so abominably nauseous as some of the compositions of our European pharmacists, which turn your very heart, and make your whole inner man rise in violent rebellion.
When the Chinese M.D. had fulfilled his mission with respect to our "noble and illustrious malady," and made a number of profound bows to the company, he departed, promising to come back the next morning. The Mandarins of Kuen-kiang-hien went also, and in
very sorrowful mood, for the physician had said posi-
we needed repose, and our condition also seemed bad enough to make it probable that we should have to make a pretty long stay, even if we were not obliged to take up our final abode at the foot of one of
tively that
their mountains.
All these considerations could not but
anxiety. the strangers were gone, Master Ting asked us whether it was necessary to follow the doctor's pre-
cause them
much
When
all
and prepare the medicine he had ordered. was, that we had no great confidence either in the drugs or the doctor; but where were we to find
The
scription, fact
a better
To whom
could
?
we apply
Only
for help in these
melancholy circumstances
of life and death, whom it plants certain marvelous properties, by which they contribute to the solace, of human infirmities ; He might
drugs, insignificant as they a special virtue, if it should be his good might be, that we should recover our health. pleasure
therefore grant to these
to the great Master has pleased to bestow on
In the Holy Scriptures we are told to honor physicians in case of necessity ; and we could have no better opportunity for that than the present. Let us therefore,
thought, honor the Chinese doctor, and scrupulously "Yes, certainly," we replied to Masobey his orders. " the medicine must be ter
we
Ting's question
prepared
as he has ordered."
servant of the communal palace was sent to get the ingredients to the house of the doctor himself, who had just made up the prescription. In China, the phy-
same time apothecaries, and sell to their patients the remedies they prescribe ; but although these two professions are intimately connected with one
sicians are at the
another,
there are
and in themselves by no means incompatible, some objections to their being exercised by the
same
individual.
Some abuses may
easily enter into
15
the exercise of functions that support each other so comas, for instance, human frailty considered, the pletely physician may yield to the temptation of prescribing
costly remedies, or even sometimes of prolonging the malady for the purpose of procuring more considerable profits
for his friend the apothecary.
The prodigious quantity of drugs that enter into the composition of Chinese medicines has indeed always appeared to us rather surpris-
ing ; and we would not venture to say that the circumstance is not to be accounted for from the fact we have
mentioned of their being prescribed and sold by the same

person.
The
fear of being fleeced
by
the doctor has given rise
to a curious custom, quite in accordance
with Chinese
manners.
into
physician and the patient usually enter an earnest discussion concerning the value and
The
price of the medicines ordered. the family too take part in this
The
odd
other
members
of
;
sort of bargaining
they ask the doctor to prescribe
common cheap
and
drugs,
and they examine the
prescription,
strike out such
as are too expensive. Possibly the effect of the medicine may be thereby rendered slow or doubtful, but they
will put
up with
that,
and run the
risk.
They always
hope, too, that the alteration will not be of much consequence, and that it will be pretty much the same in the In fact, the great recommendation of Chinese end.
practice
is, that one prescription is about as good as another, and that whether you absorb a little more or
less of their black

little difference.
brewages will probably make very
The physician, after having haggled for a long time, generally ends by abating something of the price of his merchandise, for the simple reason that if he did not, the
patient
would go
to another shop.
Very
surprising
and very Chinese
scenes, however,
16
sometimes occur with reference to these cases.
When
the physician-apothecary has said his last word, and declared positively that to obtain the cure it is indis-
pensably necessary to make use of this or that remedy,

a family council
sick person, in
is held,
actually in the presence of the
which the question of life or death is and coolly put, frequently arguments brought forward to show that, considering the advanced age of the patient, or the hopeless nature of the malady, it may be better
not to incur a useless expense, but quietly to allow After having closely calthings to take their course. culated what it will cost to buy these possibly useless
medicines,
it is
not
uncommon
money
to
for the sick

it
man
will
himself
to take the initiative,
and decide that
be much
better to reserve the
buy a
fine coffin, since
later, and it is well worth while to give perhaps a short remnant of life in order to have a handsome funeral. With this sweet and consoling in view, prospect they send away the doctor, and the send for the undertaker. Such sitting being prolonged are the thoughts and cares that occupy the mind of a
one must die sooner or
Chinese in the presence of death. Fortunately for us, we had no occasion to enter into these intricate calculations, since it was the business of the Mandarins to provide us with medicines, or, in case
of need, with a
coffin.
We
were even assured before-
hand that they would have the politeness to place us in one of superior quality and being thus made perfectly easy in our minds on this important point, we had no;
all the drugs offered even asking what they cost. Never had a doctor of Kuen-kiang-hien a better patient.
thing to do but quietly to swallow
to us, without
The efficacy of the medicine, however, by no means corresponded with our generosity of behavior; we can not say whether it did good or harm, or maintained a

prudent neutrality, and
left
17
thought proper
ing morning
all
that
we know is,
us to get well or not as we that on the follow-
we were
came more medicines, and
in a very dangerous state. Then also more illness ; a con-
suming fever; a distracting headache, a dry and burnsuch were the ing skin, and fierce pains in the bowels The doctor never left us, for the principal symptoms.
:
worthy man's pride was now concerned. To find himself engaged in a battle with the astonishing organization of a devil of the western seas to vanquish such an
;
obstinate, unreasonable, atrocious kind of malady, the like of which had never been seen among the inhabit-
ants of the Celestial Empire, that would assuredly be a

feat that could not fail to cover the doctor
with glory.
the following day we did not know much of what was passing in the room we occupied in the communal
On
Our brains became a chaos palace of Kuen-kiang-hien. in which France, China, Tartary, and Thibet, were blended and mingled into an inextricable entanglement
was absurd and monstrous persons the most incongruous, too, were brought together by the wild extravagances of our delirious imagination, and made to hold all sorts of impossible conversations. In the evening, however, our understanding became clear
of all that
;
enough to make out that the physician was speaking of the operation of acujyimcture, whereupon we clinched our fist, and looked at him in such fierce wrath, that he
"
in a fright. This manner of explaining our opinion of the matter was not, we must own, quite in accordance with the rites, but under the circumstances,
drew back
and seeing that the disease scarcely

sciousness of our actions, cusable.
it
may
us a full conbe deemed experhaps

left
This operation of acupuncture was invented in China

in
a period of the remotest antiquity,
and afterward
18

It is in frequent
passed into Japan.

tries, for
use in both coun-
the cure of
many
diseases,
and
is
performed
introducing into the body long metallic needles, the whole science of the operator consisting in the choice of the places where lie will poke them in, and in the
by
knowledge of the depth to which they may penetrate, and the direction they ought to follow. In some cases
the needles are
made
red hot.
Very wonderful cures
are said to have been performed by this method, but one must really be born in Japan or China to submit to
have one's body made into a pin-cushion. Acupuncture has been, at different periods, much the This is what M. Abel Remusat fashion in Europe. wrote on the subject in 1825: "Acupuncture has from the remotest antiquity formed one of the principal curative methods of Chinese and Japanese medicine; it has also been practiced in Europe for several years, and for these few months much extolled in France. Like every thing new and singular, this mode of proceeding has found both detractors and enthusiastic admirers. Some have seen in it a sort of panacea of marvelous efficacy ; others an unmeaning operation, that might sometimes Facts have been cited on both be highly dangerous.
sides
in
and as the opportunities for observation of it Europe could not be very frequent or numerous,
;
reference has been
usually so
much
made to the experience of Asiatics, disdained in matters of science. Inde-
pendently of academical essays, and articles in periodicals, some small works have been printed, capable of
throwing light on this interesting point of therapeutics
and physiology."
Several celebrated physicians and natural philosophers among others, MM. Morand, J. Cloquet, and Pouillet
made
puncture.
at that time repeated experiments in acuIn studying the manner in which the needles
10
act on a living body, they had been induced to think that the cause of pain was the accumulation of the electric fluid in
the part that is the seat of it, and that the introduction of the needle might favor its discharge.
needle, in this hypothesis, was a real lightning conductor introduced into the body of the patient ; and the
The
immediate, indeed instantaneous, relief he

the
felt,
led natu-
rally to the comparison of this physiological action with

surface, charged put in relation with other bodies by means of a metallic conductor. It was even thought that on touching the needle about ten minutes after its
phenomena that take place when a

electricity, is
with
introduction a slight shock
was
felt,
like that
produced
by a very feeble voltaic pile. Thus an attempt was made to explain, at the same time, the cause of the
an accumulation of the electric on a' nervous branch, and the curative effect produced by the simple subtraction of the fluid. It had been subsequently ascertained from the experiments of M. Pouillet, that electric action did really take place on the introduction of a needle into a muscle affected with rheumatism but that this action was not due to the
affection as consisting in
fluid
;
the pain, since pain, or the cause of
it
took place equally
practiced on a part that was not It had been stated the seat of any neuralgic affection. that this action took place in the same manner with ani-
when acupuncture was
mals, and that of the metal.

excited
it
It
constantly coexisted with the oxydation was demonstrated that it was never
by a needle of platina, gold, or silver, but only by those made of oxydable metals. It is therefore allowable to conclude that the physical phenomenon observed
is
the result of chemical action between the metal of the
needle and the parts with which it is brought into contact ; for there is never any oxydation of metal without
a development of electricity,
and
it
is
nearly certain
20

is
that this current

sufferer.
of no effect in the relief
felt
by the
As
to the physiological effects of acupuncture, inde-
pendently of the relief afforded, which has been remarked, especially in cases of rheumatism and neuralgia, they have mostly been observed to be the following.
The
introduction of the needle is not very painful,
if
care is previously taken to distend the skin, and if the needle is turned, instead of being driven straight forward.
In general,
duction
; ;
its
extraction
is
more painful than

little
its intro-
blood from the puncThe skin rises round ture at most, only a few drops. the instrument, preserving its natural color but it soon sinks again, and there is formed a red circle round it.
there issues very
;
The
the part
sick person then feels shootings directed toward muscular contractions take place ; numbness, ;
following the course of the great trunks of the nerves ; and feverish shiverings. It is not uncommon to see a sweat
break out over the part corresponding with the seat of pain and in that case it has ceased, or at all events become diminished, or has shifted its place. Toward this
;
time there have come faintings, more or less complete, and more or less durable, and which can scarcely be
taken place
it
attributed to the pain of the puncture, since they have when the painful sensation has ceased. This,
appears,
is
the only accident ever
known
to result
from acupuncture.
fear
There might be, perhaps, cause to serious wounds and fatal consequences if the needle
should traverse the great nervous trunks, or the organs essential to life. Some surgeons have asserted that the extreme fineness of the needle was a sufficient guarantee
against consequences of this kind ; but although in experiments made on animals, it has been found possible to pierce with them the stomach, the lungs, and even the heart, without any bad result, it is, nevertheless,

certain that such attempts
21
might occasion an irreparable
misfortune.
The Chinese and Japanese doctors, being ignorant of anatomy, and having only the most vague and erroneous ideas on the subject of the organization of the hu-
man
but frame, must often meet with fatal accidents acupuncture is not practiced among them without rule and method, nor entirely according to the caprice of the
;
practitioners.
They have determined on
the surface of the
human
body three hundred and sixty-seven points to which they have given particular names, according to the relawhich they suppose them to stand with the inand in order to obtain practice without compromising human health, they have fabricated small copper figures, on which very small holes are made in
tion in
ternal parts;
the proper places ; the surface of the figure is then covered with paper pasted on, and the student is required
to place his needle without hesitation
upon the spot
made, and on which he would be to required operate according to the affection he is examined upon. "But what can all these precautions avail," says M. Abel Remusat, in speaking of a Japanese book on Acupuncture, "in the profound ignorance of the practitioner as to the situation and connection of the various organs ? They regulate their practice solely on the principles of a blind routine, or the still more absurd theories of a fantastic physiology, which may be traced both in the
where the opening
is
general and particular precepts that the Japanese author has here collected. They set out on the principle
that the arteries always proceed from above to below, the veins always from below to above. It is, therefore, in the turn the point to prescribed, performing operation,
of the needle
upward when
it is
wished to go counter
to
22

if
the course of the blood, and downward An unseasonable or proceed with it.
ture is to be corrected
you desire to awkward punc-
by making punctures on other half the prescriptions in the and corresponding points; book are worthy of the sagacity of this. In a syncope following a severe fall, the upper part of the throat, opposite the larynx, is to be punctured to a depth of eight In pains in the loins, the hams are to be punclines. tured; in dry coughs, the external and hinder part of
the arm, to a depth of one line, or in the 'middle of the
In front of the arm, or at the base of the little finger. anthese are one from how distant parts considering
other,
it
has been supposed that the Japanese physician
opinion, is sought to act by derivation; but that, in to do them too much honor, by attributing to them so In this instance, as in so clear an idea of revulsion.
my
others, they are probably only acting at random, on the suggestions of an ignorant and credulous empiri-
many
cism.
" I will not take upon me, nevertheless, to pronounce a decided judgment upo*i Japanese medical doctrines, from a small unauthorized work, whose contents, perhaps, would not receive the approval of their really skillful medical men, if any such are to be found in Japan. There are works on medicine and surgery among us which would not give a very favorable idea of our progress in these sciences, if they should be taken up at random from our libraries and sent off to China as a In the King's Library in Paris there is a specimen. little treatise on Acupuncture in Chinese, and the rules found in it do not agree with those of the Japanese. What may be said in praise of the physicians of both countries is, that in the application both of the needle and the moxa, they seem to have been guided by long practice, and that the points assigned for the operation
23
are not always as ill chosen as those above mentioned. They seem also to have been enlightened by experience
as to the danger of introducing the needles above the arterial trunks and the principal nerves of the great vital organs ; but it is probable that their experience
on these points has cost the
lives of a great
number of
on
this
it
patients." entertained precisely the same opinion matter as M. Abel E-emusat, at the moment
We
when
;
was proposed
to stick needles into our
operations of this kind that
own body the we had witnessed by no
means tended to reassure us sufficiently, although they had been what is called successful; and we felt no desire to contribute at our own expense to the progress of The the art of acupuncture in the Chinese Empire. doctor comprehended immediately the figurative language by which we had expressed our aversion to the
introduction of the needles
and he did not
insist
on
it,
as Master Ting, wjth extreme sagacity, suggested that, as Europeans were not organized at all in the same
manner as the Chinese, he might run the risk of stick"What rashness! "he ing them in the wrong place.
these Europeans are made ? what they have in their bodies ? How do you know, doctor, what you would be sticking your
cried
;
"do we know how

tell
Who
can
The doctor admitted, or feigned to into ?" admit, the cogency of Master Ting's reasoning ; and it was settled that we should go back to our black broth,
needle
with certain modifications. The night was a good deal better than the day had been and in the morning the physician reappeared, and found us, he said, extremely well prepared to take a
;
most decisive remedy, the good effect of which was certain. The cure would be immediate and radical, and
assuredly
we
could not require more.
The
preparation
24
trouble
of this miraculous medicine required very little time or the doctor having asked for half a cup of tea, ; threw into il a dozen of minute red pills, scarcely the
size of a pin's head,
real
homoaopathic globules.
this tea,
Ax
soon as
we had swallowed
which by the addi-
had acquired a strong odor of musk, every body was ordered out of the room, that we might be left in perfect quiet and though we certainly
tion of these globules
;
can not affirm that this mode of treatment contributed to our relief or our cure, it is certain that we soon afterfelt much better, and that the improvement went on during all the rest of the day. In the evening we took six more red globules, and the next day we were decidedly convalescent, though still excessively' weak ; the malady had disappeared, there were no more convulsions, or headaches, or pains in the stomach ; and who so proud as our doctor ? He harangued the company with the most perfect confidence on all imaginable subjects, and they vied with
ward
his mouth.
each other in applauding every word that came out of Especially he did not fail to dwell on the
red medicine,
infallible efficacy of this
when adminis-
and according to the rules of prudence and wisdom two virtues which Heaven had been pleased to confer upon him in the most supreme
tered in due season,
degree.
These red pills, to which every one attributed our were not for us an unknown medicine, for they enjoy a prodigious celebrity in China, and we had heard them every where extolled. The pompous and emphatic
cure,
name that they bear is equal to their reputation. They are called ling-pao-you-y-tan, that is to say, " Supernatural treasure for all desires." It is said to be a true
universal panacea, curing all kinds of maladies without any exception: the great difficulty consists in varying
25
Adthe dose, and combining it with a suitable liquid. ministered in an improper manner, this remedy may, it
is said,
become dangerous, and cause

of
it
terrible infirmities.
a secret, in possession of a it has been faithfully single family in Pekin, in which transmitted from generation to generation ; it is, therefore, impossible to mention the ingredients; its smell
is
The composition
of musk, though very powerful, need not be considered any thing characteristic, since in China, not only the medicines, but also every other object, the people, the
as
land, the
air, all
are
more or
less
impregnated with this

smells of
to
particular odor.
The whole Chinese Empire
musk, and the merchandise imported thence

retains the smell for a long time.
Europe
This supernatural treasure, although manufactured by the one family in Pekin, is known all over the Empire, and can usually be bought at a moderate price ;
only
but
it is
necessary to be careful to get
it
unadulterated,
no very easy thing. At Pekin the it is the same as that of price has never varied pure One day we ourselves went to buy some in one silver. of the principal shops, and we had only to place in one scale a small ingot of silver, and the merchant put in the other an equal weight of red pills. The supernatural treasure is perhaps the most active sudorific existing but it acts in a quite peculiar manA single one of these little red globules reduced ner. to powder, and put up the nose like snuff, occasions a long succession of sneezing, until the whole body breaks out into violent perspiration. This powder is sometimes used to ascertain if a sick person is near the point
\vhich in
China
is
of death.
If a pinch can not make him sneeze, the Chinese say he will certainly die in a day; if he sneezes once, he will at all events not die till the morrow, and the hope
increases in the precise ratio of the
number of
sneezings.
VOL.
II.
26

Chinese medicine
is remarkable for the extreme whimmodes of procedure, and the collection of books in which it may be studied is very considerable but they contain for the most part few recipes but such as are already more or less known. Europeans would of course find in them nothing interesting in a scientific point of view ; but it would be a mistake to treat them with perfect contempt. The Chinese are endowed with
sicality of its
they have much penand often notice many small, but sagacity, not unimportant, circumstances, to which minds superior The anto theirs might be apt to pay no attention. tiquity of their civilization, too, and their habit of collecting and preserving in writing the most important discoveries, must have put them in possession of an immense mass of useful facts. We have never had the honor to study medicine ourselves but we have often heard it maintained by learned and skillful physicians, that the art of curing human maladies was less a matter of science than of experience and observation. Sickness and infirmity is the mournful inheritance of humanity in all countries, and
prodigious powers of observation
etration
;
and
at
all
epochs
is
it
God has always

to discover the
placed
not reasonable to suppose that it within the power of man

relieving his sufferings,
means of
and
The most uncivilized nations, preserving his health? have often been found in possession of savages even, certain remedies, which science not only could never
have invented, but of which
the effects.
it
could not even explain
There are in China at

are elsewhere
er
;
least as
is
many maladies
as there
yet mortality
not proportionably great-
than inot her countries. Its immense and exuberant population may be considered to afford a proof that, on the whole, Chinese doctors are not in practice much more
27
awkward and unskillful than their brethren in Europe. Neither the one nor the other has yet been able to compound a good elixir of immortality, although both had the weakness to labor to discover such a one for many
centuries
:
the Chinese find means, however, to live as
long as we do, and octogenarians are as numerous among them as among us. are, indeed, far from envying
We
the Chinese their system of medicine, which it must be owned borders closely on quackery ; we would only assert the probability of their possessing curative meth-
have even ods proportioned to their necessities. seen instances of their treating, with great success, diseases that would be considered very formidable by our
medical faculty.
apostolic career
We
There
may
is no missionary who in his not have witnessed facts of this
When
kind, capable of exciting his surprise and admiration. a physician has succeeded in curing promptly and
malady presenting the most grave and dangerous symptoms, it is to little purpose to pass a learned condemnation on the methods he has employed, and enradically a
deavor to prove their inefficiency. The sick man has been healed he is again in the enjoyment of perfect that is the essential point. health There are few peowould not saved in the most irregwho ple prefer being
ular
and stupid manner to being killed according most approved and scientific methods.
It is indisputable, for instance, that there
to the
exist in
China medical men who know how to treat the most decided cases of hydrophobia ; and it matters little that
during their treatment of this frightful malady, they
expressly forbid any object containing hemp to be shown to the patient, under the idea that that would
neutralize the effect of the remedies.
For several years we had
for
one of our catechists a
man who had
the precious gift of being able to set frac"
28
have seen him operate upon and cure with extraordinary facility more than fifty unfortunate men, whose bones were broken and even crushed.
tured limbs.
We
The
tients
operation always succeeded so well that the paused to come themselves to thank him, to the chamber that he occupied beside ours, and in the pres-
ence of such results, we never felt inclined to laugh, because the plaster he employed to promote the junction of the bones was made of wood lice, white pepper,
and a fowl pounded In 1840, we had
to death. in our seminary at
Macao a young
Chinese, who was about to be sent back to his family, on account of the complete deafness by which he had
been for some months affected, and which did not permit him to continue his studies. Several medical authorities, Chinese, Portuguese, English, and French
had been consulted
in vain concerning this infirmity.
doctors explained in technical language the mechanism of hearing ; they said wonderful things about it
The
did honor to the profundity of their knowledge but their treatment remained ineffectual, and the deafthat
;
ness was declared incurable.
Fortunately we had in our house a Christian recently arrived from our mission in the neighborhood of Pekin. He was neither a doctor nor a man of learning ; nor did
He was simply a very he possess any literary degree. but he recollected pof jpeasant ; having noticed that the pedê of his country employed a certain plant with
success in^he cure of deafness. After diligent searchin the of environs he had the good fortune Macao, ing to find some of this salutary herb, and he expressed the
juice of some of the leaves into the ears of the sick man, from which an immense quantity of humor was immediately discharged, and in two days the cure was
complete.
The young Chinese was enabled
to continue

his studies,
20
and is at present a missionary in one of the southern provinces.* The Chinese have some maladies peculiar to them-
and not known elsewhere as there exist several which make great ravages in Europe, and are in China unknown. Some are common to both the east and the west, and the method of curing them is no better understood in the one quarter of the world than the other.
selves,
;
Phthisis, for example,
is
considered incurable
by
the
Chinese physicians, and also the cholera. This terrible malady manifested itself first in China, then spread to the other countries of Asia, and afterward reached EuIt was under the following circumstances this rope.
formidable scourge, formerly unknown, made its first have the account from a great numappearance. ber of the inhabitants of the province of Chan-tong,
We
who were
>
In the
first
eye-witnesses of what they related. year of the reign of the deceased
Emperor
that is to say in the year 1820 a mass of reddish vapor was noticed one day upon the surface of the Yel-
low Sea. This singular phenomenon was observed by the Chinese of the province of Chan-tong, which forms its coast. These vapors were at first light, but gradubecame condensed, rose little by little increased, ally above the surface of the water, and at last formed an immense red cloud, which remained for several hours The Chinese were seized wit? terfloating in the air.
5
"
ror, as
they mostly are in the presence of
all
wxat nat-
ural phenomena, and sought in certain * Aperstitious practices of the Bonzes the means of averting the threat-
ened calamity. They burnt vast quantities of magic paper, which

* "We could mention on the subject of. Chinese medicine a number of remarkable facts but we abstain, because Le vrai peut quelquefois
;
n'etrepas vraisemblable.
80
they threw
processions in
Dragon; omens to the anger of that fabulous personage. At last they had recourse to an extreme measure only adopted in desperate cases they executed a tremendous charivari all along the sea coast. Men, women, and children went striking redoubled blows upon all the instruments most capable of producing a loud and sonorous noise, tam-tams, kitchen utensils, and metal implements of all kinds and the wild and savage outcries of a countless
:
They formed long flaming into the sea. which they bore the image of the Great for they of course attributed these sinister
all
multitude of people increased the horror of this infernal were ourselves once witnesses of a similar uproar.
We
manifestation in one of the great towns of the south, where all the inhabitants without exception, shut up in
their houses, struck as in frenzy every metallic article within reach, uttering at the same time the most frantic
and
incredible vociferations.
One can hardly imagine

this
city.
any thing more frightful than arising in the bosom of a great

itants of
monstrous tumult
While the inhab-
Chan-tong were seeking to conjure away this unknown misfortune, which yet every one foresaw, a
wind suddenly began to blow, and, dividing the cloud into various columns, drove them on toward the These red vapors spread in a winding course land.
violent
and valleys, and swept over the towns and wherever they passed men found themvillages, selves suddenly attacked by a frightful disease, which in a moment deranged the entire organization, and changed
along the
hills
and
In vain did the a living man into a hideous corpse. doctors anxiously turn over their books ; nowhere could they find any hint of this new, strange, and terrible enemy, that struck like a thunderbolt, sometimes on one on poor and rich, young side, sometimes on the other
and
old,
but always apparently in the most capricious
31
manner without following any fixed rule in the midst of Numberless remedies were tried, ravages. but entirely without numberless experiments made and the success, implacable scourge went raging on
its fearful
;
with unabated fury, plunging whole populations into

terror
and mourning.
all
it
According to
terrible
that the Chinese have told us of this
was incontestably the cholera. It the province of Chan-tong, then turned ravaged northward to Pekin, striking always in its march the most populous towns. At Pekin its victims were promalady
first
the portionally more numerous than elsewhere. Thence cholera crossed the Great Wall, and the Chinese say
that
it
faded
away
in the
Land
of Grass.
It is probable that it followed the route of the caravans as far as the Russian station of Khiaktha, and
that, afterward passing through Siberia, it invaded Russia and Poland, whence it made a bound to France after
the revolution of 1830, just ten years after from the bosom of the Yellow Sea.
it
had issued
In China every one is at full liberty to take up the profession of medicine whenever he pleases ; the government does not in any way interfere with him. It is of
in his
opinion that the deep and lively interest every one takes own health is a sufficient guarantee that confi-
dence will not be given to a doctor who is unworthy of it. Thus, whoever has read a few receipt books, and learned the nomenclature of medicaments, may plunge
boldly into the noble art of healing his fellow-creatures, or killing them.
Medicine, as well as education,
cellect conduit to carry, off the
lors,
is
found to be an exliterary bache-
numerous
who
and
is
grees,
are never likely to rise to the superior deThus attain the honors of the Mandarinate.
doctors, and, without reckon-
China
swarming with
32
since, ing the amateurs, who are almost innumerable as we have said, every Chinese knows more or less of
there is no village so small as not to contain several professors of the healing art. Their position is indeed far less desirable than in Europe, for, besides that
medicine
there
is
no great honor in exercising a profession that
is
within the reach of every one, there is also very little to be gained by it. Visits are not usually paid for at
all
:
medicines are sold cheap, and always on credit

it
whence
enue.
reasonably be inferred that the doctor can not count on more than a third of his nominal rev-
may
It is also very much the custom not to pay for medicines that have not produced a good effect, which
happens pretty
often,
and even
this is not the worst of
the poor doctor's case. He is not unfrequently obliged to hide himself or fly the country, to avoid imprisonment, fines, the bamboo, or even worse punishment.
This
tient,
having promised to cure a pahe has been so awkward as to allow him to die. The relations then, without hesitation, commence a lawsuit against him, and the safest way, if the doctor have
may happen when,
any regard for his life or his sapecks, is to take flight. It would seem that the legislature favors these severe
proceedings ; for the following passage occurs in the " When those who penal code of China, section 297 shall exercise the professions of medicine or surgery,
:
without understanding them, and shall administer drugs or operate with a piercing or cutting instrument, in a
manner contrary
to established rules
and
practice,
and
that they shall thereby contribute to cause the death of the patient, the magistrate shall convoke other men of
the profession to examine the nature of the remedy that they shall have administered, or the wound they shall have made, and which has been followed by the death of
the patient.
If
it
should appear that the physician or
JOURNEY THEOUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
33
surgeon has only acted in error, and without any injurious intention, he may, by a certain payment, obtain
remission of the punishment inflicted on a homicide, in the manner established for cases of killing by accident ;
but the physician or surgeon shall be compelled forever This last provision appears to us very sagacious, and such as might be imitated with
to quit the profession."
advantage in other places. Chinese doctors are very fond of a speciality, and ocj cupy themselves exclusively with the treatment of cer tain maladies. devote themselves to such Some as proceed from cold, others to those caused by heat. Some devote their time to broken practice acupuncture .others limbs. There are also doctors for infants, doctors for
;
women, and doctors
who
fact,
for old men. are called " suckers of blood,"
There are some and who are, in
They fasten their lips cupping-glasses. the and on humors abscesses of invalids, hermetically
living
and, by drawing in their breath, make a vacuum, and cause the blood and humors to gush into their mouths.
We
have seen these vampires at work, and never witnessed a more revolting spectacle. The cure of the
eyes, the ears,

bers,
and the
feet is
usually
left
to the bar-
who
enjoy also the privilege in
ern provinces of fishing for frogs. the speciality of the Chinese doctors, however, they very rarely become rich by the exercise of their art.: they live
their brethren the schoolmasters in privation ITrom what we have said, the reader will
some of the southWhatever may be
from day to day as they best can, and commonly rival
and poverty. have formed no very favorable idea of Chinese medicine. It was our business to relate frankly and freely what we knew; but we would not excite any needless prejudice against
for it is very possible that to ; indebted for our lives.
it
it,
after
God, we are
54
as our cure was complete, the civil and miliMandarins of Kuen-kiang-hien hastened to pay us tary a visit in grand state, and congratulate us on the favors that heaven and earth had just granted to us. They expressed to us in the most lively manner how happy they were to see us out of danger, and on the point of recovering possession of our precious and brilliant This time we were persuaded that the words health. of the Mandarins were entirely sincere, and the true expression of their feelings, for our recovery released them from a terrible responsibility. They could not but be excessively uneasy while we were threatening to die under their jurisdiction not, of course, that they cared whether we lived or died but they could not doubt that our death would have occasioned them great em; ;
As soon
barrassment.
There are some special
difficulties
connected with the
presence of a dead body in China. When an individual dies in his family there is no trouble ; the relations are
answerable, and no one has any right to raise doubts But if he or suspicions concerning the causes of death.
lose his life out of doors, the proprietor of the place on which the body is found becomes responsible. Whether it be in a wood, in the middle of a field, on a piece of waste land, matters not, the owner of the soil is bound to give notice and afford the necessary explanations, which, to be considered valid, must be accepted by the In that case they undertake relations of the deceased. to perform the funeral; and when once they have pre-
sided over the burial
all is
over.
But
until then the
unfortunate proprietor of the land remains responsible for the life of a man, whom perhaps he has never seen
nor heard
of.
In these circumstances
;
terrible things
sometimes happen incredible suits are commenced in which the Mandarins and the relations of the dead resort
35
to every device of trickery and wickedness to satiate their cupidity, and ruin their victim. They have been known to keep an unfortunate and perfectly innocent
shut up in a dungeon, with the terrors of death suspended over his head, until they have succeeded in deof all his goods. law of responsibility, although often in practice a source of monstrous iniquities, was doubtless considered in the mind of the legislator in the light of
spoiling
man
him
This
terrible
a safeguard of human life, a salutary barrier to the outbreaks of passion. It may be conceived that in a
country like China, where there exists no religious

principle capable of restraining evil instincts, assassinations would take place every moment, if the blood
of a man were made of small account. Draconian laws have been found necessary to restrain within the limits of duty these materialist populations living without a God, without religion, and consequently without a conIn order to teach them to respect the lives of science. their fellow-creatures, a dead body has been made to them an object of excessive dread. can not say whether this law has produced any of the good results hoped for from it ; but it is easy to see the crying abuses to which it has given rise. With-
We
out speaking of iniquitous lawsuits of the persecutions carried on by the Mandarins against innocent persons,
it is
certain that this
law tends to
stifle
every sentiment
of compassion toward the unfortunate. have the courage to receive into his house
suffering
Who
would
any poor
Who
wayfarer whose life might be in danger ? would venture to bestow care upon a dying man, or even to allow him to die in peace in his field, or the ditch that bordered it? Such an act of mercy might
chance to be rewarded by total ruin, or even by capital
punishment.
Thus the
sick
and unfortunate are driven
SO
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
from every dwelling; they are obliged to remain stretched on the high road, or to be dragged under certain sheds, which, being the property of the government, do not compromise any one. One day we ourselves saw an honest tradesman endeavoring, with tears and supplications, to persuade a poor fellow \vho had fainted on the threshold of his shop to go and die somewhere
and the unfortunate creature got up with the ; help of a passer-by, and had the charity to go further off and yield his last breath in the middle of the
else
street.
One of the greatest acts of vengeance that a Chinese can practice toward an enemy, is to deposit by stealth a dead body upon his ground. He is certain by that means to entail on his foe a long series of miseries and calamities. When AVC were at our mission in the valley of the Black Waters, one of the little towns in the environs *became the scene of a horrible crime of this
nature.
vagabond went
into the
warehouse of a
great commercial establishment, and, addressing himself directly to the principal, said, " Steward of the
to
cash-box, I want money and I have none ; I have come beg you to lend me some ; I know that your Comis rich.''
pany
The
sinister looks
and audacious tone of the fellow
intimidated the merchant, and, not daring to turn him out, he offered him two ounces of silver, saying politely
it
was
for a
cup of
tea.
The beggar demanded, with
the utmost effrontery, whether he thought a man like him would be satisfied with two ounces of silver. " It
is
business
not much," said the merchant, "but times are bad, is not going on well, and every body is poor
nowadays."
you?" said the menditwo ounces of cant; "keep your silver, then; I'm not
"What, you
are poor too, are
37
going to starve you," and lie went out, casting on the merchant a look like that of a wild beast. The next day he presented himself again in the street
before the door, holding a child in his arms, and called " Steward of the cash steward of the cash !" out,
!
the man, and cried, laughhave Ah, ha, you thought better of it, and have ing, come to fetch your two ounces of silver, have you ?" "No, I have not," said the ruffian; "on the contrary, I have come to make you a present. See, here is something to make your business get on better ;" and with these words he plunged a knife into the heart of the child, flung it all bleeding into the warehouse, and then rushed away and hid himself in the labyrinth of streets. The child belonged to a family known to be at enmity with this one, and the consequence was the total ruin of the house ; the principal partners of which long lan-
The merchant recognized

"
guished in the public prisons. It is probable that a case so atrocious as this does
not often happen
;
but there
is
question ing crime, tends to produce it. The fears entertained by the Mandarins of Kuen-
quite fails ih its object,
no doubt that the law in and instead of prevent-
kiang-hien on our account had certainly not been such as to make them dread any of these terrible outrages of
but they had imagined that the French concern itself about our death, and would government call their Emperor to account for it, and that there would consequently come a long series of inquiries, perplexities, and annoyances of every kind, that the malevolent might accuse them of negligence, and that they might have to suffer loss and damage in various ways. We took good care not to undeceive them, and to tell them that our government had something else to do than
the Chinese law
;
to trouble itself about us
we
thought
it
better to leave
O-iVj^
_
<W
38

in this salutary fear salutary not only for us, be observed, but for any missionaries who might have to do with their tribunals.
them
it
any thing
did not
These Mandarins
that the judicial assassination of several French missionaries had formed no obstacle
to the exchange of the most touching assurances of esteem and affection between the two governments, and
know probably
that neither our sickness nor our death

to occasion
would be them the smallest uneasiness.

four
likely
Kuen-kiang-hien, our strength being sufficiently restored, we began to think When we announced this of continuing our journey.
After
resting
days
at
joyful news to the prefect of the town, although he the most polite efforts to appear concerned, it was impossible for him to restrain the transports of his de-
made
light.
poetical
His language under its influence became quite and flowery. He wished us nay he promised
till
us
for
every day of our journey

-a
we should
reach
smooth and fine road, calm weather, a sky of cloudless blue, cool and umbrageous places of repose, a favorable wind, and a propitious 'current on the river ; in short, he forgot nothing that could render our journey happy and agreeable. What a piece of good fortune it was for him that he should have been at Kuen-kianghien when we arrived, and just at the time of our illWe might have met with a careless selfish magness istrate, who would not have understood, or not have a magistrate who would fulfilled his duty toward us have as had he done, not, given us his whole heart, have surrounded us every day, as he had had the happiness of doing, with solicitude, and affection, and devo-
Macao
tion.
And,
in order to convince us of the sincerity of
these charming expressions, he assured us that he had carried his cares so far as to choose for us a magnificent coffin, at the first maker's in Kuen-kiang-hien.

Could there possibly be a more
a coffin
it
39
polite
we
quite ready for us in case could not fail to thank him with
made
man ? To have we should want

warmth
for this
most tender and delicate attention. In no other country than China, perhaps, could men be heard exchanging compliments on the subject of a
coffin. People are mostly shy of mentioning the lugubrious objects destined to contain the mortal remains of a relation or friend, and Avhen death does enter the house,
the coffin is got in in secrecy and silence, in order to But it is spare the feelings of the mourning family.
quite otherwise in China; there a coffin is simply
article of the first necessity to the dead,
and fancy to the living. them displayed in the shops with all sorts of tasteful decorations, painted and varnished, and polished and trimmed up to attract the eyes of passengers, and give them the fancy to buy themselves one. People in easy
circumstances, who have money to spare for their pleasures, scarcely ever fail to provide themselves beforehand with a coffin to their own taste, and which they consider
an and of luxury In the great towns you see
becoming
in
it, it
is
and, until the moment arrives for lying down kept in the house, not as an article of imme-
diate necessity, but as one that can not fail to be consoling and pleasant to the eye in a nicely-furnished
apartment.
For well-brought-up children it is a favorite method of expressing the fervor of their filial piety toward the authors of their being, a sweet and tender consolation
for the heart of a
coffin for
son to be able to purchase a beautiful an aged father or mother, and come in state to
moment when they least expect such an agreeable surprise. If one is not sufficiently favored by fortune to be able to afford the purchase of a coffin in advance, care is always taken that before " sapresent the gift at the
40
JOURNEY THROUGH THE
CIIINKSi; K.MIMKK.
luting the world," as the Chinese say, a sick person shall at least have the satisfaction of casting a glance at his last abode ; and if he is surrounded by at all affectionate relations, they never fail to and place it by the side of his bed.
buy him a
;
coffin,
In the country
are not
this is not
always so easy
for coffins
kept quite ready, and, besides, peasants have The only not such luxurious habits as townspeople. of the is for the then to send carpenter place, who way
si takes measure of the sick person, not forgetting to observe to him that it must be made a little longer than would seem necessary, because one always stretches A bargain is then made out a little when one's dead. concerning the length and the breadth, and especially the cost wood is brought, and the workmen set about their task in the yard close to the chamber of the dying person, who is entertained with the music of the saw and the other tools, while death is at work within him, preparing him to occupy the snug abode when it is
;
ready. All this is done with the most perfect coolness, and without the slightest emotion, real or affected.
We
have ourselves witnessed such scenes more than once, and it has always been one of the things that most surprised us in the manners of this extraordinary country. short time after our arrival at the mission in the north, we were walking one day in the country with a Chinese seminarist, who had the patience to reply to all our long and tedious questions about the men and things of the Celestial Empire. While we were keeping up the dialogue as well as we could, in a mixture of Latin and Chinese, using a word of one or the other as we found occasion, we saw coming toward us a rather numerous crowd, who advanced in an orderly manner along a narrow path. It might have been called a procession.
41
Our first impulse was

safe corner
to turn aside,
hill;
for,
and get
into
some
not having as yet much experience in the manners and customs of the Chinese, we had some hesitation in producing ourselves, for fear of being recognized and thrown into prison
irist,
behind a large
Our seminapossibly even condemned and strangled. however, reassured us, and declared that we might continue our walk without any fear. The crowd had
now come up with

It
us, and we stood aside to let it pass. was composed of a great number of villagers, who looked at us with smiling faces, and had the appearance of being uncommonly pleased. After them came a litter, on which was borne an empty coffin, and then an-
other
litter,
wrapped and his expiring eyes were fixed upon the coffin that When every one had passed, we hastpreceded him.
ened to ask the meaning of this strange procession. "It some sick man," said the seminarist, "who has been taken ill in a neighboring village, and whom they are
is
in blankets.
upon which lay extended a dying man His face was haggard and livid,
bringing
to die
home to his family. The Chinese do not like away from their own house." "That is very "For the sick natural; but what is the coffin for?" man, who probably has not many days to live. They seem to have made every thing ready for his funeral.
I remarked
by
linen that they
mean
the side of the coffin a piece of white to use for the mourning."
These words threw us into the most profound astonishment, and we saw then that we had come into a new world into the midst of a people whose ideas and feel-
men
These ings differed widely from those of Europeans. about to for the funeral of quietly setting prepare
a still living friend and relation ; this coffin placed purposely under the eyes of the dying man, doubtless with the purpose of doing what was agreeable to him; all
42

plunged us into a strange
.silence.
this
reverie,
and the walk was
continued in
The moment
see the approach of death does not fail
astonishing calmness with which the Chinese when the last
arrives. They expire with the most incomparable tranquillity, without any of the emotions, the agitations, the agonies that usually render the moment of
death so
terrific.
Their
oil.
life
goes out gently like a lamp

certain sign by which to live is when
that lias no
more
The most
you may know when they have not long
"The sick man does they no longer ask for their pipe. not smoke any more," the Chinese Christians were accustomed to say, when they came to summon us to This was a formula to administer the last sacraments. indicate that the danger was pressing, and that there was no time to lose. It appears to us that this peaceable death of the Chinese is to be attributed, first, to their soft and lymphatic
temperament, and, secondly, tojtheir entire want of reThe apprehensions connected with a future life, and the bitterness of separation, can not exist for those who have never loved any one much, and who have passed their lives without thinking of God or their souls. They die indeed calmly; but irrational animals have the same advantage, and at bottom this death is really the most lamentable that can be imagined.
ligious feeling.
We
where we had been on but before we set off we the coffin that had been out of four enormous
quitted at last this town of Kuen-kiang-hien, the point of stopping forever; had the curiosity to go and see
It was made prepared for us. trunks of trees, well planed,
stained of a violet color, and beautifully varnished. " Master Ting asked us how we liked it. Superb," we must own we "but we said; yet prefer being seated in
our palanquin."
43
resumed our journey, conformably to the new programme, by torch and lantern light. The doctor had recommended it when he gave us his parting advice, and the night traveling so completely restored our strength and appetite, that the next day,
We
when we
felt
entered the
communal
palace of Tien-men,
we
quite fresh
and
well.
CHAPTER
Visit of the
II.
Mandarins of Tien-men Their Attention to us Fame of Tien-men for the Number and Beauty of its Water-melons ExtenCaustic Humor of a young Milisive Use of the Water-melon Seed tary Mandarin The Inhabitants of Sse-tchouen treated as Strangers in the Province of Hou-pe Prejudices of Europeans with regard to Chinese The Manner in which most Works on China are composed True View of the supposed Immobility of the Orientals Revolutions in the Chinese Empire Socialist School in the Eleventh Century Account of their System Long and severe Struggle TransCauses of the Barbarian Invasions.
portation of Tartar Agitators
town of Tien-men made haste that a serious illness had detained us four days at Kuen-kiang-hien, and though they had been informed that our health was improving, they It was desired to convince themselves of it in person.
of the
to visit us.
THE Mandarins
They knew
easy to see through this great politeness

take
at
it
they feared
no doubt that being yet scarcely convalescent we might

into our heads to rest awhile in their town.
What
a relapse should take place, and we should die Tien-men! It may be imagined how formidable these ideas were to men who dread expense and trouble above every thing. When they saw us, however, their fears were at an end, for we were looking pretty well, and, what mattered more to them, expressed our inten-.
if
Full of hope, tion of pursuing our journey at nightfall. render exerted themselves to our they departure easy and agreeable. In order to procure for us invigorating
repose, they set a guardian of the communal palace to drive out with a horse-hair fly-flapper any mosquitoes
45
pertinent
that might be in our rooms, and, fearing that these iminsects, yielding to the depravity of their
"
natures, might return to trouble our slumbers, they fumigated all the approaches with certain aromatic herbs
whose odor
is
said to be unendurable to
;
mosquitoes.
The
and
desired result was obtained to our hearts' content.
we
slept tranquilly
Hearing that we had more than once shown a preaqueous fruits, the authorities of Tien-men had the kindness to put an abundant supply of them at our disposal water-melons, in particular, were lavished on us with astonishing prodigality. The soldiers', the servants, the palanquin-bearers, all had as much as
dilection for
:
was the height of the season for produced at Tien-men of unusual size and superior flavor. Though it was very early when we entered the town, we had remarked in all the
they could desire.
It
this fruit,
which
is
streets long stalls covered with a profusion of magnificent slices of water-melons ; some were scarlet, some
white,
and some yellow, the

is
latter
being generally the
most
delicate.
very important in China on acwhich the Chinese have a perfect The reader may perhaps remember the old passion. Mandarin of honor, who had been fastened upon us in the capital of Sse-tchouen, and who seemed to have come into the world for no other purpose than to chew melon-seed. In some places, when the harvest is abundant, the fruit is valueless, and only preserved for the sake of the seed. Sometimes the fruit is carried in to some quantities frequented highway, and given away to travelers, on condition that they shall put aside the
count of
its seeds, for
The water-melon
seeds for the proprietor.
By
this interested generosity
they have the glory of refreshing the weary during the hot season, and they also relieve themselves of the
46
trouble of working these mines to extract the precious deposit within.
These water-melon seeds are indeed a treasure of cheap amusement for the three hundred million inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. They are an object of
and
daily consumption throughout the eighteen provinces, it is amusing to see these extraordinary people
their meals to test the con-
Their long and appetite. The skill and pointed nails are then extremely useful. the hard shell to oboff with which rapidity they strip
tain the tiny kernel must be seen to be appreciated; a troop of squirrels or apes could not manoeuvre more
munching these seeds before dition of their stomach and
always thought that the natural prodexterously. for what is artificial and decepof the Chinese pensity
We
had inspired them with this frantic passion for water-melon seeds ; for if there is in the world a disappointing dish, a fantastic kind of food, it is surely this.
tive
Therefore the Chinese use them at

places.
all
times and in
all
If a few friends assemble to drink tea or riceis
wine, there melon-seeds.
always an obligato accompaniment of
pursuing business
this dainty
;
They are when

;
eaten while traveling, while children or workmen have a
few sapecks to dispose

it is
of,
they run to expend them on
in the towns and sold every where the villages, on the high-roads and the by-roads ; in the wildest and most ill-provisioned district you need never
fear to
be without melon-seeds.
The consumption
of
them throughout the Empire is something incredible, something beyond the limits of the wildest imagination.
You sometimes see junks on the rivers entirely loaded with this precious cargo truly you might imagine yourself in a nation of rodentia. It would be a curious
;
inquiry,
and one worthy
to attract the attention of our
great compilers of statistical tables to fix the daily,
47
monthly, or yearly consumption of this article in a country counting three hundred million inhabitants. On leaving Tien-men, where we passed a pleasant day, there was appointed to accompany us as escort to
the following stage a young military Mandarin, whose manners and gossip amused us much. His little, pale,
lively face, with a touch of
;
sarcasm in
it,
excited interest
and curiosity although a soldier, he had more brains than most of the men of letters, and no one was more
convinced of this than himself. As he spoke not only with ease but with elegance, he was not backward in the use of his tongue; he discussed every thing that came into his head with decision and authority, interlarding his long harangues with pleasantries and witticisms not wanting in smartness. Above all, he boasted of a long residence at Canton, and of some small
displays of prowess against the English, as well as of having studied the manners and customs of foreign
fitted to appreciate and judge on the face of the earth. definitively every subject When we halted for our mid-day meal, he began to tease the Mandarins of our escort most pitilessly. He talked of Sse-tchouen as of a foreign country, a mere He asked them whether civilization had savage region. " You are not to into the mountains yet. begun creep from the Thibet frontier," said he; "it is easy to perceive in your accent, manners, and appearance, that you live very near a race of savages, and this is certainly the first time you have traveled. Every thing surprises you that is always the way with people who never stir from the place they are born in ;" and he went on to point out to them many contrasts between their customs and
nations,
and of being thus
those of Hou-pe. To tell the truth, our Sse-tchouenites had found themselves sadly out of their element since they
had
left their
48
province.
country
They were ignorant of the manners we were traversing they were laughed
;
of the
at, in-
sulted, and,
above
all, fleeced.
One
day, for example,
some
soldiers of the escort
had
seated themselves for a few minutes
When
before a shop. they rose to depart, a clerk of the establishment

gravity, two sapecka his The soldiers* rested before door. having him in amazement ; but the malicious clerk
came and demanded, with much

apiece for looked at
held out his hand with the air of a

suspicion that his
man who
has no
to.
demand can possibly be
objected
travelers, attacked in their tenderest point the pocket ventured to say that they did not under-
The poor
stand the demand.

clerk
;
"That
is
his neighbors around, " Look here men fancy they can sit before shop for Where can they come from, I wonder, to be nothing " ignorant of the commonest customs
!
very strange!" cried the
and, these
!
summoning
my
exclaimed, laughed loudly, and marveled at people who were simple enough to imagine The soldiers, ashamed they could sit down for nothing. of being taken for uncivilized creatures, paid the two
sapecks, saying, to excuse themselves, that such was not the custom in Sse-tchouen. They had not gone far however when some officious shop-keepers ran to tell them,
as a consolation, that they were very silly to let themselves be taken in so easily.
i
The neighbors
These scenes were of daily occurrence while we were traveling through Hou-pe, and indeed we natives of the West found ourselves more at home throughout China than the inhabitants of other provinces who were unused
Europe concerning China and the Chinese. It is spoken of as an empire of remarkable and imposing unity, as a perfectly homo-
to traveling. Very false ideas are entertained in
49
geneous nation, so that to know one Chinese is to know all and after passing some time in a Chinese are town, you capable of describing life tliroughout this This is far from being the case, though vast country.
them
no doubt there are certain characteristics to be found throughout, which constitute the Chinese type. These characteristics are remarkable in the face, the language, the manners, the ideas, and certain national prejudices but they are distinguished by such varieties of shade, such well-defined differences, that it is easy to tell whether you are dealing with tL e-jagnJjiLihe. north, In passing from one province to south,, east, or west. another, you become aware of these modifications ; the language changes by degrees till it is no longer intelligible ; the dress alters in form so much that you can distinguish a citizen of Canton from one of Pekin by it alone. Each province has customs peculiarly its own, even in important matters, in the imposition of taxes, the nature of contracts, and the construction of houses. There exist also particular privileges and laws which the government dare not abolish, and which the functionaries are forced to respect ; there reign every where rights of established custom which destroy that civil and administrative unity that Europeans have been pleased
;
.
to attribute to this colossal empire. As much difference might be pointed out
between the
eighteen provinces as between the various states of Europe : a Chinese who passes from one to the other
finds himself in a
whose habits
manners.
is
strange country, amidst a people to him, where every one is struck with the peculiarity of his face, language, and
are
unknown
There is nothing surprising in this when it considered that the Chinese empire is composed of a
'
number of kingdoms, often separated under the dominion of various princes, and ruled by distinct legislation.
VOL.
II.
60

iinited,
These nations, though more than once
have
never combined so closely but that an observing eye could detect the different elements composing the vast
whole.
Hence
tories of
it
follows that a sojourn in
Macao
or the facto
Canton does not render a man competent
judge of the Chinese nation. Even a missionary, who has resided many years in the bosom of a Christian community, will no doubt be perfectly acquainted with the district that has been the theatre of his zealous labors ; but if he undertakes to extend his observations, and believes that the ways of the converts around him are those of the whole empire, he deceives himself, and It may be immisleads the public opinion of Europe. agined, therefore, how difficult it is to form a just estimate of the Chinese character and country from the writings of travelers who have paid a passing visit to These writers are unthose ports open to Europeans. a fertile imagination ; and with intellect doubtedly gifted their sentences with choose their and turn they language, an enviable skill ; when reading their books you never doubt thefr good faith for a moment there is only one thing wanting that they should have seen the country and the nation of which they speak. Let us suppose that a citizen of the Celestial Empire, wishing to become acquainted with that mysterious Europe whose products he has so often admired, makes up his mind to visit the extraordinary people of whom he has no knowledge beyond a vague notion of their geo;
He embarks, and, after traversing graphical position. the ocean till he is sick of seeing nothing but sea and sky, he reaches the port of Havre. Unfortunately he
does not
to his assistance
how
a word of French, and is obliged to call some porter who has picked up, someor other, a little Chinese ; he adorns him with the
know

title
51
of interpreter or toun-sse, and gets on with him as best he can, eking out his words with abundance of
pantomimic gestures. Furnished with this guide, he traverses the streets of Havre from morning till night, disposed to make an
astonishing discovery at every step, in order that he may have the pleasure of regaling his fellow-country men with his wonderful adventures on his return home.
He
enters every shop, is enraptured with all he sees,
and buys the most extraordinary things, paying, of course, two or three times what they are worth, because there is an understanding between his interpreter and
the
shopman
to get as
much
as possible out of the bar-
barian.
course our Chinese is a philosopher and a moral* and therefore takes a great many notes he devotes the evening to this important labor, to which he calls in
ist,
:
Of
the aid of his guide. He always has a long series of questions ready for him, but is a little embarrassed because he can neither make his own questions quite intelligible,
nor understand very clearly the answers re-
Nevertheless, after making the effort of comthe to West, it is absolutely necessary to acquire a ing mass of information, and enlighten China on the condition of Europe. What would people say if he had
turned.
nothing to
therefore,
tell them after his long journey ? He writes, sometimes according to the information of a porter whom he does not understand, sometimes at the
own suggestive imagination. After a few months past thus in Havre, our traveler returns to his native country, well disposed to yield to the entreaties of his friends not to deprive the public of
dictation of his
the useful and precious information he has collected con-
cerning an
unknown
country.
No
doubt this Chinese will have seen
many
things
62
he did not expect ; and if he be at all well informed, might prepare a very interesting article on Havre for But if, not content with that, he the Pekin Gazette. takes up his too ready pen to compose a dissertation on
France, the form of its government, the character of its senate and legislature, its magistracy and army, science,
arts, industry, and commerce, not to speak of the various kingdoms of Europe, which he will liken to France, we must suspect that his narrative, however picturesque and well written, will contain a mass of errors. His " Travels in Europe," as he will no doubt call his book,
can not
fail to
convey to his countrymen very
false ideas
regarding the nations of the West.
Many works on China

written in the
published in Europe have been
manner
I have described,
and
after perus-
imagine China such as she The China described is a work of imaginareally is. tion, a country which has no existence, and setting aside
it is
ing them
difficult to
the great mistake regarding the unity of the Chinese empire, there are many others which we will venture
to point out.
The immutability
of the Asiatics
is
one of those es-
tablished ideas in regard to them which is founded on an " If there Utter ignorance of their history. is," says M.
Abel Re'musat, "in the whole range of European
ideas,
one recognized fact, one notion indisputably settled, it is that of the subjection of Eastern nations to their an-
and customs, of the regularity of their habits, and the unchangeable nature of their laws. The immutability of the East has passed ink) a
cient doctrines, manners,
proverb, and this opinion, among other advantages, possesses that of rendering superfluous all inquiry after their ancient condition, which is supposed to be illustrated so well
by
their present state.
May
I venture
to brave the general conviction,
and disturb the tran-
53
quillity of public opinion on this topic, by representing the (Mentals as people who from time to time have followed new doctrines, adopted various forms of govern-
ment, and bowed to the sway of fashion in the matter
The Europeans, who are so of personal adornments ? fond of change in these things, will think that in asserting this I intend to extol the Asiatics, and I fear being
taken for an enthusiastic eulogist of these people, because I try to establish a conviction of their inconstancy. "But, in the first place, what* intimate connection is
there between those nations called Orientals, that we should class them under one general head, and include
them
all in one comprehensive estimate ? It would apthat somewhere or other there is an immense counpear try called the East, whose inhabitants, formed on the same model, and subject to the same influences, may be
described en masse, and comprehended in one view. Yet what have these nations in common beyond their Asiatic And what is Asia but a portion of the great birth ? continent which the sea only surrounds on three sides, and to which we have assigned fictitious limits, and traced an imaginary boundary on the side nearest us ? Even those ancient names that were formerly in use are becoming superseded by more elegant appellations, and it is hard to say exactly what is Asia, since our geographers have proscribed the whole four quarters of the world, and substituted a division of three, five, or six, with the harmonious names of Australia, Polynesia, Oceanica, and Nothasia.* Are the Malays an Asiatic race ? Are the Muscovites a European nation ? Are there many points of resemblance between an Armenian and a Tartar, an Indian and a Japanese ? There is
* name sometimes applied by French geographers to a portion of the Indian Archipelago, including the isles of Sunda, Borneo, Celebes, the Moluccas, and Philippines. TRAMS.
54
more difference between them than between a Londoner and a Parisian, a citizen of Madrid or of St. Petersburg. Yet we class them all together, because we do not know
how
on casual observation appear identical. We confound and moral developments, and from this confusion produce an imaginary being, resembling nowe call it an Asiatic or Orithing that really exists ental, and, knowing no more about it, praise or blame
intellectual traits
;
to distinguish them, just as we are embarrassed to detect a difference of features in those negro faces which
at
random
who who
; generic terms are indeed useful to people are not particular about having correct ideas, and care little to understand before pronouncing judg-
ment.
" But if you would consider this subject more nearly, be surprised at the multitude of things unwould you
known to you, at the prodigious differences to be traced between nations which we class together so carelessly, or, to speak more plainly, which we confound so ignorantly. I do not mean varieties of climate, nor of dress, which necessarily follow those variations, nor of race as
exhibited in the countenance, although that is great enough to cause one people to treat as a monster what
Nor do I point to is elsewhere prodigiously admired. natural productions, which influence social habits so
though it acts powerfully on I confine myself especially to two points, religion and laws, two points of the highest importance, revolutions in which produce such great changes in publargely, nor to language,
literary taste
and private life, and which do not in Asia present the painful monotony that has been fancied ; for, in spite of what a great writer has said, these two points do not
lic
depend entirely on climate, or in other words, and law are not settled by rain and sunshine."*
*
religion
Melanges Asiatiques,
p. 224.
55
nations,
After passing briefly in review the principal Asiatic and showing that they have little or nothing in
that each has a separate moral, political, and religious character, this learned and discerning writer continues thus : "All these races may be called Easterns, for the sun certainly lights them before us ; or Asiatics,
common,
they live east of the Oural mountains, which in modern maps are considered the line of demarkation between Europe and Asia, but it must be understood that the name is all they have in common, and that it is used for brevity's sake to avoid long and useless defor
nominations, being only incorrect
when used
carelessly
and unthinkingly.
The
characteristics
mon
to these nations are their
which are comobstinacy in what con-
cerns themselves, and their prejudice against foreigners. But these blind prejudices and this dogged obstinacy separate them one from another as much as from us, and
a Japanese at Teheran, or an Egyptian in the streets of Nankin, would be an object of almost as much astonishment and ridicule as a European. " But in the annals of the shall we
recalling
past,
perhaps discover something of that uniform civilization, that one primitive type, whose chief attribute is held to
be immutability? Different as they now are, may the Easterns only have become so in the course of time? Did they indeed resemble one another at a far distant epoch ? Have they become changeable in consequence of change, and has one revolution given them a taste The history of Asia answers all these for others ? if a false solution of them is offered to the and questions,
public, the reason is that it costs some trouble to study the history itself, and that the greater part of those who
speak of
for truth.
it
find
it
easier to create fiction than to search*
"
Religion and government are
among the things which
BG
should only be changed on necessity, and men who allow themselves to be lightly influenced on other subjects But might adhere firmly to their opinion on these.
men
are men in Asia as elsewhere, and inconstancy in serious matters has ever been a malady of the human
race. therefore find in the annals of that part of the world such abundant material for the history of folly and error, that we must be rich indeed in such experience on our own account to be able to neglect so many
We
useful lessons, which would not cost us a tear or a penny. "Asia is the domain of fable, of aimless reveries and
fantastic
imagery
what astonishing
varieties,
and we
may
say, what deplorable diversity may be there observed of the manner in which human reason, without
to satisfy the first
any other guide, has endeavored
want
of society religion. " If there are few truths that have not been taught in Asia, it may also be said thnt there are few extrav-
The agances that have not been held in honor there. mere list of the various faiths that have in turn prevailed in the East saddens good sense and alarms the imag-
\r
The idolatry of the Sabamns, the worship of and the elements, Islamism, the polytheism of the Brahmins, that of the Buddhists and followers of the Grand Lama, the worship of the heavenly bodies and ancestors, of spirits and demons, and many minor sects of which little is known, all vying with each other in senseless dogmas and strange customs, do not these present variety enough on a most important point? And how can morals, laws, and customs be unchangeable when the very basis of all law and morality vacilination.
fire
lates thus
it a single nation in Asia that has been subject to these fluctuations : all the nations, all the races, have brought their contribution to swell the general
"JSTor is

mass of
follies
57
very like our
own
and
to see the eager-
ness with which they are adopted in nations which have not given them birth, one would say that, contrary to ordinary opinion, the desire for change among these
men overcomes even the force of custom and national prejudice, in so much that a new system is always welcome, if it be but in opposition to common sense
;
for reasonable ideas
rapid success, they and it is often but slowly that they gain ground with the multitude."
less lively charms and less attract at first only intelligent minds,
have
The
to
whom we ought here particularly have not been the least remarkable occupy ourselves,
Chinese, with
among Asiatic races for their inconstancy in religion. In the ages of antiquity, China preserved herself from one evil by the aid of another she avoided idolatry by
;
already during the lifetime of Confucius, however, China was divided by two principal religious sects, and five or six systems of philoslapsing into indifference
;
ophy,
faith,
all
teaching contradictory doctrines.
third
i
Buddhism, has since been added to the two first, and the three have held possessio* of an r empire which counts one third of the human race. Long and tragic are the accounts of the divisions and quarrels which, at various epochs of Chinese hisbut tory, these religious questions have given rise to it is to be remarked that while the cultivated classes have been always attached to the principles of Confucius, the multitude have inclined to the superstitious practices of Buddhism. But it would be difficult
that of
;
find, elsewhere than in China, people who could adopt all these various faiths and philosophic systems, without troubling themselves to reconcile them one with the other. This was the commencement of that
to
relapse into religious indifference, in which the Chinese
c*
58
plunged, after so long suffering themselves to be blown about by every wind of doctrine. Nor have governments and institutions varied less
are
now
Here again is the than religion throughout Asia. fancied constancy wanting. Religion and politics are and as we retrace our steps to where connected, every the infancy of society, they appear to be blended toIn the Eastern regions of Asia they were gether. one and the same thing, if we may judge from formerly
tradition
;
and the government of forty centuries ago
did not in the least resemble those of the present day. The name of heaven was given to the Empire, the
sovereign called himself God, and confided to his several ministers the business of lighting,
warming, and
The titles of these ministers, fertilizing the universe. and the dresses they wore, corresponded to their noble functions ; there was one to represent the sun, one for
the moon, and so on for the other planets ; there was a superintendent of mountains, another of rivers, of air,
forests,
etc.
supernatural authority was attributed
to these functionaries, and the harmony of this fine order of things was only disturbed by comets and
which were supposed to announce to the world a deviation of the heavenly bodies from their accustomed path, and whose apparition, even at the present
eclipses,
in China, statesman.
day
is
a rude shock to the popularity of a
reigned in
Persia in remote
very similar system appears to have antiquity, but in both
iant fictions.
countries terrestrial events rudely dissipated these brillWar, rebellion, conquest, and division
led to the establishment of the feudal system, which lasted about seven or eight centuries, nearly the period during which it held sway in Europe, and which was
more than once reproduced by the effect of the same causes which first gave it birth. Monarchy, neverthe-

less,
59
and ended by obtaining a so that China really experienced what would have been seen in Europe, had the dreams of those who aspired to universal empire been realized, and France, Spain, Italy, Germany, and the States of the North been united in one vast kingdom, ruled by one sovereign, and having the same inprevailed
generally,
complete and decisive triumph
stitutions.
The counterpoise very weak one) was
to the
Imperial power
(at first
It the philosophy of Confucius. in more the seventh became century, acquired strength regularly organized, and it is now 1200 years since the
system of competition and examinations for literary deaim of which is to subject the unlearned to the yoke of the learned, has practically placed the government in the hands of educated men. The irruptions of Tartars, a race who trouble themselves very little about literature, have sometimes susgrees, the
this philosophical oligarchy, but has always resumed its sway, for the Chinese appear to prefer the dominion of the pen to that of the sword, and pedantry to violence, though the one does not always banish the other. Those learned men Avho have made such erudite researches to prove how the
pended the rule of

sooner or later
it
Chinese government has been enabled to remain unfor 4000 years, have neglected one thing which is rather important. No doubt the reasons alleged are
changed
very learned and well imagined, but the fact to be accounted for is simply not true, a misfortune which has
happened before now to philosophical explanations. The Chinese have adopted various maxims, altered their form of government, tried divers political combinations, and, though there are some experiments of which they have not bethought themselves, their history presents nearly the same phases as that of most other nations.
60

China has certainly no need to envy other countries but she might excite jealousy in some on ;
their changes
the score of her revolutions, the tragic overthrow of dynasties,
and
civil Avars.
our most famous European revolutionists were told that they are but children and say, they scholars beside the Chinese in the art of upsetting sociYet this is true ; their history is one series of ety ? catastrophes which have at various times shaken the
if
What would
empire to
its
foundation.
Compare France and China within a given period of the entrance of the Franks time, say from the year 420 into Gaul to the year 1644, when Louis XIV. ascended the throne of France, and when the Mantchou Tartars
established themselves in Pekin.
During
this time of
years, these so-called peaceful Chinese, this nation so attached to ancient laws and customs, so renowned
for its immobility,
1224
went through
fifteen
changes of dy-
wars, and alaccompanied by the extermination of the dethroned bloody by In the same space of time France only saw families. two changes of dynasty, which were quietly effected by time and circumstances, without any effusion of blood. It is true that since then we have made great progress, and that since we have made acquaintance with the Chinese, we have done our best to emulate them.
nasty,
all
frightful civil
most
all
If
we
studied
could imagine tKaTtlienistory of ChinawasataTl among us, we might fancy that our fellow-counto
trymen had resolved
copy them
they have done
it
already to admiration on several points ; a feverish taste for political change, and a profound indifference on religious topics, are two leading traits of Chinese character. It is a curious fact that the greater part of those social theories which have lately thrown the public mind of
France into a ferment, and which are represented as the
61
sublime results of the progress of human reason, are but exploded Chinese Utopias which agitated the Celestial Empire centuries ago. Our readers may judge of this from the extracts we shall make from the History of China, but which we must condense, on account of their
lengthy details. In the llth century of our era, the Chinese nation, under the dynasty of Song, presented a spectacle nearly analogous to that seen in Europe, and France especially,
of late years.
and
great and knotty questions of social all minds, and split into political economy filled class of Those people who at society. every parties
The
other times have seemed so indifferent to the proceedings of their government, then flung themselves passionately
into the discussion of systems which aimed at an immense social revolution. Matters had come to such a
point, that the ordinary business of life
was neglected ;
commerce, handicrafts, and even agriculture, were abandoned for polemical agitation. The nation was divided into two furious parties pamphlets, libels, inflammaof all kinds were tory writings daily flung profusely to the multitude, who devoured them with avidity. Placards also played a prominent part, and though not long
;
since
we
influence,
manifested a certain aptitude for this mode of it must be confessed we are far behind the
Chinese.
The
kept
reformer, or chief of the Socialist party,
was the
famous Wang-ngan-che, aTman of remarkabletalent, who

all classes
of the empire in excitement during the
Chinese historians say that reign of several emperors. he had received from nature a mind far above mediocrity,
which was brought to perfection by careful culture. In youth he studied with ardor and application, and his efforts were crowned with success ; he was distinguished by honorable mention among those who received the
rank of doctor at the same time. He spoke with eloquence and grace, having the art of giving weight to all he said, and he knew how to give an air of importance
to trifling things private
life
;
when
his interest required
it.
His
was
spectable
regular, and all his external conduct resuch were his good qualities. On the other
represented as ambitious, and as a man who thought any means lawful to gain his ends, self-willed
hand, he
is
to support an opinion he had and filled with an idea of his haughty, own merits, esteeming only what agreed with his own opinions and views of politics, and desirous of uprooting and utterly destroying the old institutions of his country, to replace them with new ones of his own invention. To accomplish his enterprise he did not hesitate to undertake a long, difficult, and even repulsive task. This was to make ample commentaries on all the sacred and classical writings, into which he insinuated his own and to compose a universal dictionary, in opinions which he gave to certain words an arbitrary meaning Historians add that he according to his own interest. was incompetent to conduct affairs of state, because he had only general views on the subject, and would have
to obstinacy
when he had
;
once advanced
governed according to maxims which, though good in themselves, he did not apply to the right time and circumstance.
The
popularity of Wang-ngan-che fluctuated greatly
at various periods during the time that he bent all his efforts to reorganize, or rather to revolutionize the em-
His power was almost unlimited beneath the Emperor Chen-tsoung, who, charmed with the brilliant qualities of the reformer, gave him his entire confidence. The executive and the tribunals were soon filled with
pire.
his creatures, and, seizing the favorable
moment
to real-
ize his schemes, the ancient order of things
was soon

overthrown.
63
enthusiastically
His innovations and reforms were greeted by his partisans, and attacked with en-
venomed eagerness by his enemies. The most formidable adversary encountered by Wangngan-che was a statesman named Sse-ma-kouang, one of the most celebrated historians of China, the same
who described his garden so charmingly in poem we have already quoted. M. Abel Remusat has written a biographical
him, in
the
little
notice of
which occurs the following account of Wangngan-che and his opponents.* "The Emperor Chen-tsoung, on ascending the throne,
desired to surround himself with all the enlightened men of the country, among whom Sse-ma-kouang could not
This new phase of his political life was be overlooked. no less stormy than the previous one. Placed in opposition to one of those audacious spirits who, in the path to their plans of reform, fear no obstacle and respect no ancient .institution, Sse-ma-kouang showed himself, what he had ever been, a religious observer of the customs of antiquity, and ready to brave all for their maintenance.
"
Wang-ngan-che was the reformer

to
whom
chance had
Sse-ma-kouang, as if to summon to an equal opposed combat the guardian genius that watches over the preservation of empires, and the spirit of reform that makes
them tremble.
Stimulated by contrary principles, the adversaries were gifted with equal talents; one employed the resources of his imagination, the activity of
his mind,
and the firmness of
his character, to change
to regenerate: the other, to stem this torrent, called to his aid the remembrance of the past, the example of
and
the ancients, and the lessons of history, which he had studied with care.
*
Nouveaux Melanges
Asiatiques.
64
" Even the prejudices of the nation to which Wangwas proud to show himself superior, found a ngan-che In the year 1069 several supporter in his antagonist. provinces had been visited in succession by a number
of terrible disasters: epidemic maladies, earthquakes, and a drought which Destroyed nearly all the harvest.
According to custom, the censors seized the occasion to invite the Emperor to examine if there were faults in his conduct to amend, or abuses in his government to reform ; and the Emperor testified his sorrow by abstaining from certain pleasures, music and fetes in the palace.
The reforming
old prejudice.
'
minister disapproved of this homage to 'These calamities,' said he to the Em-
peror,
have settled and unvarying causes ; earthquakes, droughts, and inundations have no connection with the Do you hope to change the ordinary actions of man. course of things, and that Nature should alter her laws*
for
you?'"
Sse-ma-kouang, who was present, did not suffer this " Monarchs are indeed to speech to pass uncombated. be pitied," cried he, "when they have near their persons men who propound such theories ; they would dethe fear of heaven, and what other restraint can check their disorders ? Masters of all around, they dare
sti-oy
any thing with impunity, and would give themselves up and those subjects who are really attachto any excess ed to them would no longer be able to excite their better
;
feelings."
According to Wang-ngan-che, the carrying put of his scheme was to procure infallible happiness to the people
in the
development of the greatest possible material enjoyments for every one. While reading the history of this famous epoch in the dynasty of Song, one is forcibly struck with the resemblance of the writings and
harangues of Wang-ngan-che to those which, in our own

time, we liave seen propounded in the newspapers the senate.
65
and
" The
first
and most essential duty of a government,"
said the Chinese socialist, "is to love the people and to procure them the real advantages of life, which are
.plenty and pleasure.

I
accomplish this object it every one with the unvarying as all might not observe but of rectitude; principles them, the state should explain the manner of following these precepts, and enforce obedience by wise and in-
To
would
suffice to inspire
In order to prevent the oppression of the state should take possession of all the resources of the Empire, and become the sole master and
flexible laws.
man by man,
employer.
The
State should take the entire manageagriculture into its
ment of commerce, industry, and
hands, with the view of succoring the working classes and preventing their being ground to the dust
the rich." According to these new regulations tribunals were to be established throughout the Empire,
own
by
which were to fix the price of provisions and merchandise. For a certain number of years taxes were to be imposed to be paid by the rich from which the poolThe tribunals were to decide who should be exempt. was rich and who poor. The sum thus collected was to be reserved in the coffers of the State, to be distributed to aged paupers, to
workmen
out of employ,
and
of
to
whoever should be judged to stand most in need
it.
According to Wang-ngan-che the State was to become

the only proprietor of the soil ; in each district the tribunals were to assign the land annually to the farmers, and distribute among them the seed necessary to sow it,
on condition that the loan was repaid either in grain or other provisions after the harvest was gathered, and in order that all the land should be profitably cultivated,
66
the officers of the tribunals should fix what kind of crop was to be grown, and supply the seed for it.
"
It is evident," said the partisans of the
new
scheme,
"that by these means abundance and happiness will The only people who can reign throughout the land. suffer by this state of things are the usurers and monopolists, who never fail to profit by famine and all public calamities, to enrich themselves and ruin the working But what great harm will it be to put an end classes. at last to the exactions of these enemies of the people ? Does not justice require that they should be forced to The State will be the restitute their ill-gotten gains ? As she will only creditor, and will never take interest. watch over agriculture and fix the current price of provisions, there will always be a supply proportionate to In case of famine in any one spot, the the harvest.
great agricultural tribunal of Pekin, informed by the provincial tribunals of the various harvests of the Empire, will easily restore the
equilibrium by causing the the of fertile provinces to be transported into superfluity Thus the necessaries those which are a prey to want.
of life will always be sold at a moderate price, there will no longer be any classes in want, and the State, being the only speculator, will realize enormous profits annually, to be applied to works of public utility." This radical reform entailed of course the destruction of large fortunes and the reduction of all classes to a more uniform condition, and this was precisely the aim of Wang-ngan-che and his followers. This bold scheme did not, as with us, stop short at theory, for the Chinese are much more daring than they are reputed to be. The
Emperor Chen-tsoung, persuaded by the arguments of

Wang-ngan-che, placed entire authority in his hands, and the social revolution began. Sse-ma-kouang, who had struggled long and fruitlessly against the reformer,
67
determined to make a last effort, and addressed to the Emperor a remarkable petition, from which we shall
quote the passage relative to the advancing of seed-corn
to the tiller of the land.
"It is proposed to advance to the people the seed with which they are to sow the ground. At the end of
winter, or in the beginning of spring, the officers will supply each man with the quantity they judge neces-
Immediately after the gathering of the same harvest, quantity and no more will be demanded back. What can be more advantageous to the people ? By this means all lands will be cultivated, and
sary, gratuitously.
abundance will reign throughout the provinces of the Empire. " In theory nothing can be more attractive and beneficial, in practice nothing more injurious to the country. We will suppose the grain distributed, and eagerly received by the people (though on this point I have much doubt) do they really make the use of it for which it is destined ? AVhoever believes this must have very little and experience, judges far too favorably of the common order of men. The interest of the moment is what concerns them most ; the greater part never look beyond the day, and very few indeed trouble their heads about
;
the future.
" The seed, then,
is
;
by consuming
else.
part
they
intrusted to them, and they begin sell or exchange it for some-
thing which they imagine they need more than any thing Corn has been given them ; they leave off work-
ing,
and become
idle.
But supposing
all this
does not
happen: the grain is sown, all the necessary labors of cultivation are properly performed, the time of gathering the crop arrives, and they are called upon to repay what
was
as
it
lent them.
The harvest which they have watched and ripened, and regarded as their own propgrew
68
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE
EMI'IRK.
must now be Part must be yielded up, or sometimes, in bad seasons, the whole crop. How many reasons will
erty, the well-earned fruit of their labors,
divided.
be alleged for refusing to do so How many real and in necessities will stand the way of the restiimaginary
!
tution
" The tribunals, we shall be answered, which are

their satellites to enforce the
established expressly for this department, will dispatcli payment of what is clue.
;
and beneath the pretext of demanding what what extortion, what robbery and violence will due, be committed! I do not mention the enormous cost which such establishments would entail but, after all, at whose expense would they be maintained? At the the or the farmers of the ? Government, nation, expense Whichever it may be, who will derive advantage from
Doubtless
is
;
it?
It
may
be alleged that this practice of advancing
the seed has long been in use in the province of Chen-si, and that none of these evil results have taken place ; it
appears, on the contrary, that the people find it desirI able, since they have made no request for its repeal.
have but one reply to make to this. I am a native of Chen-si ; I passed the first part of my life there I have been an eye-witness to the miseries of the people ; and I can affirm that, of the evils under which they suffer, they attribute two-thirds to this practice, against which Let candid inquiry be enthey murmur unceasingly. tered into, and the true state of things will be made
;
manifest."*
The chronicles of the time add that on the side of Sse-ma-kouang were seen all the most distinguished men of the Empire, whether renowned for wit, experience, talents, judgment, or rank, and who all added their prayers and entreaties to his then, changing their
;
M^moircs sur
la Chine, vol. x. p. 48.

tone,
69
they accused Wang-ngan-che of disturbing the
public tranquillity. But amidst the violent attacks and clamor that rose
him on all sides, the reformer remained ever calm and imperturbable. Possessed of the confidence of the sovereign, he smiled at the vain efforts of his enemies to ruin him. He read the declamations and satires which they presented to the Emperor under the
against
name
tions,
and so
of respectful representations, humble forth, and appeared not to be
supplica-
moved by
them
in the slightest degree.
When
his adversaries,
the Emperor, persuaded by the arguments of was on the point of yielding and restor-
ing the form of government to the old footing, Wang" should you ngan-che would calmly say to him, in this till matter? Wait be hasty experience has shown
Why
you the
for the benefit of
measures which we have adopted your realm and the happiness of your subjects. Beginnings are always difficult, and it is only after overcoming many obstacles that a man can hope
result of the
to reap the fruit of his labor. well. Ministers, nobles, and
Be firm, and all will go Mandarins have all risen
I am not surprised at it ; they can not against me. Litquit the common routine and adopt new customs.
tle
by
little
they will grow used to these innovations,
their natural aversion will die
away
of
its
own
are
accord,
and they will end eager to decry."
by applauding what they
now
so
Wang-ngan-che' maintained his ascendency throughout the reign of Chen-tsoung ; he put all his plans in Acexecution, and overturned the country at his ease. his social revolution was to Chinese historians, cording
not successful ; the nation became more deeply plunged But that which excited the public in misery than ever.
opinion most deeply against this bold reformer was his
70
attempt to remodel literature, and subject it to his desNot only did he change the form of expotic system. amination for the grades of literary rank, but he caused his own commentaries on the sacred books to be adopted
as the correct explanation, and ordered that the signification of the characters should be referred to the great
This last dictionary which he had himself composed. innovation it was, probably, which drew upon him the implacable hatred of the great number of his enemies.
the death of the Emperor, Wang-ngan-che was immediately deposed ; the reigning Empress sent for
On
She and Prime young Emperor, Minister. His first step in this important post was to efface every trace of the government of Wang-ngan-che, who died not long after nor did Sse-ma-kouang long The memory of these two men has been survive him.
Sse-ma-kouang,
in retirement.
who had been living

of the
named him governor
by turns execrated with

and in
all
the virulence of political
this, again, the Chinese have passion ; to the Europeans. resemblance strong
shown a
The
reigning
Empress caused the body of Sse-ma-
kouang to be interred with great magnificence, and the official epitaph adorns his memory with all the virtues
of a wise man, an excellent citizen, and an accomplished minister ; but his highest praise was the public grief at The shops were closed ; the people went his death.
into
mourning
and the women and children who could

coffin,
not kneel beside his
prostrated themselves before
his portrait in the interior of their houses. of sorrow accompanied the funeral wherever
These signs
it
appeared,
on
Sse-ma-kouang. While witnessing the honors paid to the memory of this great man, it would not have been easy to foresee
the reverse
later.
it
its
way
to the native place of
The
to experience eleven years of partisans Wang-ngan-chc having con-
was destined
71
trived to return to the posts from which Sse-ma-kouang had displaced them, found means to cajole the young SseEmperor, who was now of age and sole master. all his posthumous titles, and was of stripped ma-kouang a measure which declared the enemy of his country made a great impression on the minds of the Chinese. His tomb was destroyed, and the marble monument Another was bearing his epitaph flung to the ground.
erected, bearing the enumeration of his pretended crimes; his writings were burnt ; and, had it depended on these en-
raged persecutors, one of the finest specimens of Chinese In the literature would have been entirely destroyed.
time, the memory of Wang-ngan-ch6 was restored to honor, and his political system pursued with redoubIn reading the history of these sudden led ardor.
mean
changes of public opinion,
we might
well imagine
it
was written of some European nation. Three years had scarcely elapsed before the memory of Sse-ma-kouang was once more adorned with all his and the name of the reformer, again titles and honors The socialist party were perseloaded with execration. cuted in their turn, and forced to fly the country this was in the year 1129. While China thus cast forth these bold innovators, the terrible Tchinggis Khan was rising into power in
;
:
those steppes of Tartary which were soon to pour forth as conquerors their numberless hordes of barbarians.
This coincidence
is
worthy of
note,
and seems
to us to
bear out a profound observation of a statesman gifted both with a great intellect and a noble heart.
Shortly before beginning this work on China, we were honored by an interview with one of those rare men who, amidst all our civil discord, have preserved the esteem and consideration of all parties. were speakthose Asia of civilized races of ancient whose hising
We
72
tory is so little known in Europe, and which have no doubt experienced, like ourselves, great social crises, and suffered from mighty revolutions. "I have often
" that the invathought," said the illustrious speaker, sions of barbarians, which at various times have over-
whelmed Europe, may probably have resulted from some great social movement in the populous countries
These great centres of civilization have no doubt been the theatre of terrible struggles, and the ferocious bands whose irruptions are recorded in our history might be those enemies of public peace whom This is only an a priori society had forcibly expelled. idea, which stands in need of historical proof; you
of Asia.
might perhaps find it in the chronicles of the Chinese Empire." This remark, proffered with the reserve which distinguishes superior minds, made an impression upon us. We were struck by the connection which we there perceived between the Chinese crisis under the dynasty of Song, and the formidable agitation manifested soon afterward in Tartary. Since then we have more careevents which took place remarkable studied the fully in high Asia during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries of our era, and the a priori idea of the Minister for Foreign Affairs has become for us an historical
fact.*
Wang-ngannumerous partisans were forced to quit the country which they had hoped to make their prey, and where their attempts at disorganization were rechd's system, his
After the final defeat and annihilation of
membered with
detestation
by
all
good
citizens.
They
passed the Great Wall in large troops, and wandered into the deserts of Tartary. Here, leading a vagabond
*
We
rowed
his idea to place
hope that M. Drouyn de Lhuys will pardon our having borit on these pages in such unworthy company.

life,
73
love of change to the

for a fierce
they soon communicated their unquiet spirit and Mongol tribes, then remarkable
and savage
disposition.
These ferocious No-
mads, who had
not yet been humanized by Buddhism, were then so far from regarding the slaughter of an
animal or the crushing of an insect as a crime, that rapine, It may, plunder, and assassination were their pastimes.
readily be imagined what a monstrous combination was produced by the union of these people with the refuse of
The whole of Tartary was soon and these vigorous nations, inoculated with the passion of revolution, could no longer be reChinese civilization
;
!
in a ferment
strained within their
own boundaries
they sought
for
other countries to overturn, and inundate with blood
Nothing was wanted but a man to and command, and Tchinggis Khan appeared. organize He gathered together the wild and terrible hordes of those regions, and led them in immense battalions even into Europe, crushing and overwhelming all that came in his way. The result of these tremendous invasions is well known. VOL. II. D
a world to ravage.
CHAPTER
Arrival at Han-tchouan
III.
t
Custom of presenting a Pair of Boots to a Advertisements Privileges and disgraced Mandarin Placards and Association against Gamblers Liberty enjoyed by the Chinese the Press Public LecturesSociety of the Old Bull Liberty of
European Prejudice concerning the Despotism of Asiatic Governments Carelessness of Magistrates Remembrance of the Sufferings of the venerable Perboyre Navigation of a Lake Floating Islands Population of China Its Causes and Dangers Cormorant Fishing Some Details of Chinese Manners Bad Reception at Hanyang We follow a wrong Course Passage of the Yang-tse-kiang
,
Arrival at Ou-tchang-fou.
!.
THE sarcasms and pleasantries of the young military Mandarin of Hou-pe were received with a bad grace by our escort, Master Ting especially; but convinced at last, by many mishaps, that they were indeed in a strange country, they took them more in good part, which immediately had the effect of quieting the malice
of their witty companion. After several stages," in which there occurred nothing worthy of mention, we arrived at Han-tchouan, a town
of the second class.
The sun had just risen, a number of idlers were standing about outside the ramparts, and near the principal gate the groups were more numerous.
We had the
At
the
city, there
fatuity to imagine that they were assembled to see us pass, but we were never more mistaken.
to enter the appeared, coming out, a brilliant procession, followed by an immense crowd, and we were obliged to The* principal person of the stop to let it pass. procession was a military Mandarin of advanced age, and who
moment when we were about
75
bore the insignia of the tou-sse, an important grade in He rode a richly caparisoned horse, the Chinese army.
and was surrounded by officers of inferior rank. Directly the procession had passed the gate it stopped, close to where our palanquins were placed, and the crowd
pressed forward eagerly, making the air resound with
cheers.
noble old men, magnificently dressed, and carrya satin boot, approached the tou-sse; they each ing
knelt down, respectfully pulled off his boots, and replaced them with those they carried. During this cere-
Two
mony the people all prostrated themselves two young men then took the boots which had been drawn off, and
;
hung them on the arch of the town gate and the procession moved on, followed by a large crowd, uttering Our palanquins were cries of grief and lamentations.
;
and we entered Han-tchouan. were thronged with people, but so much preoccupied were they by the ceremony which had just taken place, that they hardly deigned to cast a glance on the two Devils of the West.
also set in motion,
The
streets
When we reached the communal palace, we hastened to inquire of the guardian the meaning of what we had learned that the military Mandarin had been seen.
We
stript of his
appointment, in consequence of calumnious
reports spread against him at Pekin ; that he had been degraded a step in military rank, and sent to a less im-
portant post.
The people, nevertheless, who had had no fault to find with his government of Han-tchouan, had resolved to protest against this injustice by a solemn manifestation. According to custom, the Boots of Honor were presented to him, as a mark of sympathy, and those which he had worn were retained to hang over the town gate as a precious souvenir of his good administration.
/6
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE
E.Ul'IKE.
This singular custom is of most ancient date and universal practice; it is the means which the Chinese and adopt to protest against the injustice of Government
Mandarin who has really shown himself " the Father and Mother of the People." In almost every town of .China the principal gate is
testify their gratitude to the
ornamented with a large assortment of old boots, dusty, and tumbling to pieces with rottenness and age. They one of its most precious are the glory of the town
monuments,
for
rins the country has
The
first
they point out how many good Mandabeen fortunate enough to possess. time that we remarked this singular ap-
pendage to the gate of a town, we .taxed our powers of imagination in vain to guess what they could possibly do there, since it was evidently much too high to be a A Christian who accompanied us gave cobbler's stall. us the real explanation, but we scarcely believed it, nor was it till we had seen many town gates thus adorned that we were convinced they had not been practicing on
our credulity. The Chinese, submissive as they are to authority,
always find means of expressing their opinion, and of The bestowing praise or blame on their Mandarins. of a of is a boots offering pair certainly very original way of showing esteem and sympathy ; but they do not confine themselves to this. A very powerful organ of
public opinion is the placard, and this is every where made use of with the dexterity of long practice. "When it is desired to criticise a Government, to call a Man-
darin to order, and show him that the people are discontented with him, the placards are lively, satirical, cutting, and full of sharp and witty sallies ; the Eoman pasquinade was not to be compared to them. They are on the doors of posted in all the streets, and
especially the tribunal where the Mandarin lives who
is to
be held
JOURXEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
77
up
to public malediction. Crowds assemble round them, they are read aloud, in a declamatory: tone, while a thousand comments, more pitiless and severe than the text, are poured forth on all sides, amidst shouts of laughter.
Sometimes, instead of the vehicle of opposition, it becomes a sort of national reward to those Mandarins who have made themselves popular. Then satire is replaced by pompous eulogy, and the idol of the people is likened to all the most famous holy personages of antiquity.
The
Chinese, however, succeed
blame than
in
praise,
and
their placards are
much better in much happier
than in eulogy. The Chinese are not in the habit of bowing beneath the rod of their master so unresistingly as is imagined.
insi^;
It
may
indeed be said, and
it
is
to their credit,
that
they are in general submissive to authority; but when it becomes too tyrannical, or merely fraudulent, they
sometimes
rise
up with
irresistible energy,
and bend
it
to their will.
While traversing one of the western provinces, we one day reached a town of the third class, named jPingfang, where we found the whole population in commotion,
and wearing a very unaccustomed aspect.

:
We
was as follows A Mandarin iiad been named governor of the town of whom the inhabitants did not approve. It was known that in the district he had just left his administration had been arbitrary and tyrannical, and that the people had suffered much from his injustice and extortion. The news of his nomination to Ping-fang therefore
learned that the cause
.
in the
excited general indignation, which shoAved itself at first most violent satirical placards. deputation of the chief citizens set off for the capital of the province,
to present to the viceroy a humble petition to have pity on the poor people of Ping-fang, and not to send them
78
a tiger, who would cat them up, instead of a father and mother to take care of them. The petition was refused,
and the Mandarin ordered
to set off to take possession
of his post on the following day. The deputies returned, bringing this
their fellow-citizens.
sad news to
into con-
The town was plunged
sternation, but did not confine itself to idle lamenta-
The principal people assembled, and held a grand council, to which all the most influential citizens were invited. It was decided that the new governor should not be permitted to install himself, and that he should be civilly ejected from the town. The Mandarin arrived at the expected time, accomtions.
panied by a numerous suite, and, contrary to expectation, he encountered not the smallest sign of opposition on his way. Every one knelt at his approach, and paid
homage to his dignity. He was convinced, therefore, that his fears of a bad reception were chimerical, and that all would go well.
Scarcely had he entered the tribunal, however, before he had had time even to drink a cup of tea, it was announced to him that the chief citizens of the town rePie hastened to grant it, under the quested an audience.
impression that they came to
offer their
on his
safe arrival.
The deputation
congratulations prostrated them-
selves, according to the rites, before their
new
then, one of
them stepping forward, announced
prefect ; to him,
with exquisite politeness and infinite grace, that they came in the name of the town, to request that he would set off directly to return whence he came, for they would have none of him. The prefect, thus rudely disenchanted, endeavored
first
to
soothe,
and then
in
to intimidate, the rebellious
citizens,
he found himself, as the Chinese say, " only a paper tiger." The spokesman
all
but
vain;
79
very calmly told him that they had not come there to that the thing was settled, and they discuss the matter had made up their minds that he should not sleep in the In order to leave him in no doubt as to their town. real intentions, he added that a palanquin waited before
;
the door, and that the town would pay his traveling expenses, besides providing a brilliant escort to conduct
him
It
more
any one out endeavored to raise politely. prefect a crowd had the but round objections great gathered a far cries of from or house, uttering reassuring flattering nature, and he saw that it would be imprudent further
safely to the capital of the province. would have been impossible to turn
The
still
to resist.
He yielded, therefore, to his destiny, and his willingness to comply with their demands. signified With much respect and ceremony he was shown to the
door,
requested to step
where a handsome palanquin was in waiting, and in. The cavalcade immediately set off, still accompanied by the chief men of the town. On reaching their destination, they went straight to
the viceroy's palace. The chief representative of Pingthe prefect to the viceroy, saying : fang presented " The citizens of Ping-fang restore to you this magistrate, and humbly supplicate you to send them another ; as for this one, they will not have him at any price. Behold the humble petition of your children." Speak-
ing thus, he handed to the viceroy a long roll of red paper, containing a petition signed with the names of all the most important people of Ping-fang. The viceroy, with some appearance of dissatisfaction, took the roll, read it attentively, and then told the depu-
arguments were advanced on reasonable and should be attended to that they might grounds, return home quietly, and announce to their fellow-citizens that they should soon have a prefect to suit them.
ties that their
;
80
reached Ping-fang the deputies had just returned, bearing intelligence of the perfect success of their bold measure. Such incidents are not unfrequent in the Chinese
When we
Empire.
It often
happens that energetic and persever-
administraing popular demonstrations oppose the evil tion of the Mandarins, and force the Government to yield
to public opinion. It is a great mistake to fancy the Chinese
hemmed
in
by arbitrary laws, and quailing under a despotic power, which rules their actions and dictates all their proceedThough an absolute monarchy, moderated, inings.
deed,
by
the influence of the educated classes, the peo-
ple enjoy beneath
it much more liberty than is generally and many possess supposed, privileges which we might vainly seek in some countries boasting a liberal consti-
tution.
It
has been written, and
cor.-.mrnily believed, in
Eu-
rope, that the Chinese are forced to follow the trade of their fathers, that no one can change his place of abode
without the permission of the Mandarins ; in short, that they are subject to a host of restrictions, repulsive to the
\1
do next know what has feelings of the European. for it is rise to these very certain that given prejudices,
throughout the empire each
that suits
We
man
him
best, or
none
at all,
follows the profession without the Governis
ment
interfering in the least.
Every man
free to
please himself, to
ter, agriculturist,
become an
artisan, doctor,
schoolmas-
or tradesman, without having need of a license or permission of any kind. As regards traveling, nowhere can there exist greater freedom and independence of motion ; each citizen
may
wander about among the eighteen provinces, and settle where he pleases, undisturbed by any public functionary.
No
one interferes with the traveler,
who
is
sure
81
never to encounter a gendarme demanding his passport. If the Chinese Government should imhappily take into
heads one fine day to adopt the ingenious invention of passports, poor missionaries would find themselves in a very lamentable condition. They would be unable to
their
a step without false passports, which they might, no doubt, easily obtain by bribery ; but this would be sorely against their consciences.
stir
There is a law existing which enjoins the Chinese to remain within the limits of the Empire, and not to go
vagabondizing among foreigners, acquiring bad habits, and destroying the fruit of their good education but
;
the numerous emigrations of Chinese to the English, Dutch, and Spanish colonies, as well as to California,
prove that this regulation

It is
is
not very strictly enforced.
written in the Statute Book, like
many
others
equally disregarded.
The liberty to traverse the various parts of the country unobstructed is almost indispensable to these peoas they are engaged in commercial operple, continually
ations. Of course the least impediment to free motion would check the great system of commerce which is the life and soul of this vast empire.
The freedom of association is as necessary to the Chinese as that of locomotion, and they possess it as
With the exception of the secret societies completely. at the overthrow of the Mantchou dynasty, and aiming
which are pursued with the utmost severity by Government, all societies are allowed, and the Chinese have a There are sociremarkable aptitude for forming them. robbers and beggars eties for all trades and professions even have their associations nobody stands alone in It sometimes happens that the citizens his sphere. unite to watch over the observance of the laws in places where the authorities are too weak or too negligent to
; ;
D*
82
maintain order.
results.
We
have ourselves witnessed
efforts
of this kind which were attended with very satisfactory
Gaming
carried
sion.
is prohibited in China, but it is nevertheless on every where with an almost unequaled pas-
One
far
large village, situated near to our mission,
from the Great Wall, was celebrated for its One day, the chief of a considprofessional gamblers.
and not
made up
erable family, who himself was in the habit of playing, his mind to reform the village. He*therefore
invited the principal inhabitants to a banquet, and toward the end of the repast he rose to address his guests, made some observations on the evil consequences of gaming, and proposed to them to form an association
for the extirpation of this vice
from their
it
village.
;
The
but
proposal was
finally, after
at first received with astonishment
a serious consultation,
was adopted.
An
was drawn up and signed by all the associates, in which they bound themselves not only to abstain from playing, but to watch the other inhabitants, and seize
act
gamblers taken in the fact, who should be immediately carried before the tribunal, to be pun-
upon
all
ished according to the rigor of the law. The existence of the society was made known in the village, with the warning that it was resolved and ready for
action.
blers,
Some days afterward, who had not taken

flie
three most determined
gam-
surprised with
the manifesto in earnest, were cards in their hands. They were
bound and carried before the tribunal of the nearest town, where they were severely beaten and heavily fined. We staid some time in this part of the country, and can testify to the efficacy of this measure in correcting the So prevailing vice of the village. was the success of the indeed, striking, association,

that
83
many
others were organized in the neighborhood
with the same object.

Springing
spontaneously to
influence,
life,
unaided by any
pre-
government
these societies sometimes
and exercise their authority with an energy and audacity which the proudest Mandarins might envy. Not far from the place where the anti-gambling society had flourished, there arose a much more reThis part of the country is indoubtable association.
sent a truly formidable aspect,
habited
by
a
is
Mongol, and
steppes.
The
population partially Chinese, partially intersected by mountains, valleys, and villages scattered among them have not
been considered of sufficient importance by Government to be confided to the care of Mandarins. Deprived of the restraint of authority, this wild region had become the resort of many bands of robbers and miscreants, who exercised their trade with impunity throughout
the neighborhood, both
laged flocks
and
They pilnight. crops, lay in wait for travelers in the

;
by day and
defiles of the
mountains, pitilessly stripped them of all sometimes their property, and often put them to death they went so
far as to attack a village
and lay
it
waste.
ourselves have often been obliged to traverse this dreadful district to visit our converts, but it was always necessary to assemble in great numbers and go well
We
armed.
Many
times had the Mandarins of the nearest

for assistance,
town been petitioned had dared to engage

banditti.
but none of them
in a conflict with this
army
of
But
" Since simple villager undertook and accomplished. the Mandarins either can not or will not come to our
assistance," said he,
that which the Mandarins dared not attempt, a
"we must
us form a fioui."
The
protect ourselves; let houis, or societies of the Chi-
84
nese, are always inaugurated with a feast. Regardless of expense, the villagers killed an old bullock, and sent
Every and the society was entitled " jMO-niou-houi, or Society of the Old Bull," in remembrance of the inauguration feast. The regulations were brief and simple.
body approved the
idea,
letters of invitation to the villages all around.
The members were

sible
to enroll as
many
people as pos-
to be always ready to aid each other in the capture of any
in their ranks.
They bound themselves
robber, great or small. Every robber or receiver of stolen goods was to have his head cut off immediately upon arrest, all form of
trial
being dispensed with, and the value of the object As it was easy to stolen not being taken into account. foresee that these proceedings would entail disputes with the tribunals, the whole society was responsible for each
member, and took upon

all
itself collectively to answer for heads cut off. This formidable society immediately commenced operations with unexampled energy and unity of purpose ; heads of robbers, both great and small, fell with amaz-
ing and awful rapidity, and one night the Associates assembled silently in great numbers to take a tsey-ouo or
Jtobbers Nest.
1
This was a notorious village lying at the bottom of a mountain gorge; the Society of the Old Bull surrounded it on all sides, set fire to the houses, and all
the inhabitants, men, women, and children, were burnt or massacred. Two days after this frightful expedition, AVC ourselves beheld the yet smoking ruins of the Robbers' Nest.
It was not long before all the brigands of the country' were exterminated or intimidated, and property was j'ectcd to such a point that the people would pas.s
85
even a lost thing lying in the road without venturing to

touch
it.
These rapid and sanguinary executions began
to
make
The relations of the a noise in the neighboring towns. victims besieged the tribunals with their complaints, and loudly demanded the death of the assassins, as they
called the Associates.
Faithful to their oath, the society
presented themselves in a body to answer all accusations, and contest the actions brought against them.
They were by no means dismayed, having foreseen this probable termination to their efforts from the beginning. The trial was carried to the Criminal Court of Pekin,
which approved the proceedings of the
ished a
number
all
of the functionaries
It
had caused
the disturbance.
society, and banwhose negligence was thought desir-
able, nevertheless, to bring the society
under the author-
ity of the Mandarins, and legalize its existence: the regulations were modified, and each member was required to wear a badge, delivered by the Mandarin of
by
The name of Lao-niou-houi was replaced that of Tai-ping-che or "Agency for the Public Peace," and this was the title which the society bore
the district.
when we left the country on our way to Thibet. From what we have just narrated, it may be seen that the Chinese make great use of their freedom of association,
and are not such slaves
to their
Mandarins as
is
believed in Europe. Liberty of the press is another ancient institution of China, which we Europeans fancy we have invented, though in France we do not seem
able to
make it take root in the soil. Sometimes people seem enthusiastic in defense of this liberty it is a fever, a delirium and then, again, they no longer care for it, and seem, on the contrary, charmed at being deprived of the power of writing and printing their thoughts. The Chinese say that the barbarians of the Western
:
86
JOURNEY THROUGH
;
TIIK
CHINESE EMPIRE.
seas are too hot-blooded

ly,
and do not in the
least
of.
they can not take things coolunderstand the just medium
that Confucius speaks
Chinese," they say, "print whatever we like; books, pamphlets, circulars, and placards, without any interference from Government. may even print for
"We
We
ourselves at discretion, provided
we do
not find
it
too
troublesome, and have money enough to get the types carved. do not abuse this liberty ; we print what instruct the public, without prejudice to amuse or may
We
the rive cardinal virtues and the three social relations.
We
do not meddle much in public affairs, because we are persuaded that the Empire would not be well governed if 300,000,000 of individuals attempted each to
make
it
go his
own way.
It does
sometimes happen,
indeed, that books are printed which might trouble the
public peace and throw disrespect on authority, and on such occasions the Mandarins seek out the author of the
But this is no reason crime and punish him severely. to prevent others from expressing their thoughts and composing books ; the misdemeanor of a bad citizen
It
should not entail the punishment of the whole nation. seems that this is not the way in the countries beseas ; and it is not surprising, for that different nations have different tastes and
yond the Western
we know
It is the disposition of the Western people dispositions. to be excited to anger, sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another ; it is their taste to think their govern-
ments good one day and bad the next it is evident that if such people were suffered to have as much liberty as we enjoy, there would be no end to confusion and disturbance. It may be good sometimes to change
:
governments, but such alterations should not be rapid or frequent. One of our wisest philosophers has said, the nation which is badly governed but yet Unhappy
' ;

more unhappy the nation which, having a " ernment, is not wise enough to keep it.'
87
tolerable gov-
Although, when once plunged into rebellion, the Chinese yield to every excess of hatred, anger, and revenge, it is yet true that they do not ordinarily meddle in
politics or public affairs.
Were
it
not
so,
a nation of
300,000,000 persons could scarcely have a moment's repose, with such elements of discord and insurrection among them as the freedom of association and the liberty of the press.
The Chinese have another institution, which, though good and praiseworthy in itself, might become a powerful agent for the excitement and fomentation of popular passions in the hands of turbulent spirits ; we speak of the chouo-chou-ti, or Public Readers. This is a numerous class of men, who travel about to all the towns and
villages, reading to the people interesting portions of their history, accompanied always by their own com-
ments and
reflections.
These lecturers are commonly
good speakers, with a copious flow of words, and are often very eloquent. The Chinese love to listen to them ; they gather
round them in all sorts of public places, at the street corners, and in the entrances of tribunals and pagodas
and
faces,
it is
how
easy to perceive, merely at the sight of their lively an interest they take in these historic
rest,
narratives.
Now
and then the reader stops to
and he takes
advantage of these pauses to make a collection ; for he has no other revenue than the contributions of his
and they are generally liberal enough. It is thus that in China, the land of despotism and tyranny, clubs are constantly held in the open air, though it is think greatly to be doubted whether certain nations who
auditors,
themselves far advanced in liberal ideas would not be
88
JOUliNEY
THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

custom introduced among
much alarmed
them.
to see such a
Europe to regard Asia as the classic of despotism and slavery, yet nothing is more ground do not think the* reader will to the truth.
It is general in
opposed
We
iind the following passage too long, from the pen of M. Abel Remusat, whose authority is great in such matters,
because he regards the East with the just and impartial eye of a man who can rise above common prejudices, and rest his opinion only on the truths of history. "Amidst all the changes of Oriental governments, there is one striking and unvarying feature, the absence
of that odious tyranny and debasing servitude which have been represented as casting their dark shadow over I except the Mussulman states, the whole of Asia. which claim a separate study. ** Every where else the sovereign power, though surrounded by imposing state, is subject to severe I had
almost said to the only effectual
restrictions.
Asiatic
monarchs have been regarded as despots, because they are addressed kneeling, and approached only with the humblest prostrations and those who have looked no Yet religion, customs, further judge from appearances. and prejudices oppose invincible obstacles to the free ex;
ercise of their will.
"A
king in India, according to the divine lawgiver,

;
Manou, is like the sun he dazzles all eyes, lie is fire and air, sun and moon; no human creature dare contemplate him. But this superior being can not lay a tax on a Brahmin, if he should be dying of want, nor make
a laborer into a merchant, nor infringe, in the slightest degree, the injunctions of a code which is looked upon as revelation, and which regulates civil interests as well
as religious doctrines. " The Emperor of China
is
the
Son of Heaven, and when
89
a subject approaches his throne he strikes the ground nine times with his forehead ; but he can only choose a
sub-prefect out of the
list
of candidates presented to
if
him
by the Mandarins
.
and
during an eclipse he should
neglect to fast and to acknowledge publicly the faults of his ministry, a hundred thousand pamphlets, authorrecall
ized by the law, would
him
observance of ancient customs.
We
to his duty in the
should never think
of erecting such boundaries to regal power ; but in the East many such institutions set limits to the caprices of
tyranny; and a power thus retrained can scarcely be
and this modern and Euroseem word may misapplied when speaking of a pean
half-civilized nation,
called despotic. " I have said institutions,
who
are ignorant alike of budgets,
It does not comptes rendus, and bills of indemnity. signify here an act issued all at once by a legislative assembly to iufcrm a nation that, after a certain day,
they will have to adopt new customs and follow new principles, allowing always a reasonable time for change In this sense I confess that a of habits and opinions. has Asia no of institutions. Those laws and great part
principles which guide the actions of the strong, and protect to a certain extent the rights of the weak 1 are merely the results of national character ; they are founded on
the prejudices of the people, on their social disposition and intellectual necessities. It is evident how deeply
these are graven in their hearts, since no one has thought

it
necessaiy to print them. China is an exception in this case ; she is in advance of other Asiatic nations, and has
a right to European esteem, for she has long been in possession of a written constitution, and is in the habit
of altering
cations.
for,
it
It
from time to time, and introducing modifieven descends to details neglected by us ;
besides the functions of the supreme courts and the
90
i
'administrative hierarchy, which are there determined, there are in it particular statutes to regulate the calendar, weights and measures, the division of the provinces,
and, moreover, music, which has always been an object of importance in the government of the Empire.
meant an absolute master, and life of his subjects, a boundless and power, I can see none using abusing such in Asia every where ancient manners and customs, and ideas received, even though erroneous, offer to the
If,
"
then,
by despot
is
disposing at will of the property
power restrictionsAiore embarrassing than written and which a tyrant can only defy by exI see only a few places himself to destruction. posing where nothing is respected, where moderation is unknown, and might only is right and this is where the weakness or imprudence of the natives has suffered the
regal
regulations,
;
men establishment of foreigners from distant lands whose sole object is to make a fortune as rapidly as possible, and then to return and enjoy it in their native
country. They have no pity for men of another race, no sympathy with the aborigines, whose language they can not understand, in whose tastes, habits, and prejudices they do not share. Harmony, founded on reason and justice, can not exist between interests so diametrically opposed.
Force alone can maintain this state of
things ; absolute despotism is necessary to support a handful of rulers eager to seize on every thing, amidst a
multitude
who deny
their right to
any
thing.
This
is
the state of things in the European colonies of Asia. " They are a singular race, these Europeans, and their
proceedings would
make a strange impression on an impartial judge, if such a one could be found on the earth. Intoxicated by their own progress in modern times, especially by their superiority in the art of war, they look upon all other families of the human race
91
with supreme disdain, as though all were born to admire and serve them, and that of them it was written God
'
:
and he shall dwell in the tents of Shem, and Canaan shall le his servant.' All must think like them and work for them they walk abroad upon the earth exhibiting to the humbled nations their
shall enlarge Japket,
;
faces as the type of beauty, their ideas as the standard of intelligence, their arguments as the very basis of all
reason
every thing
other,
and who contests the " To each

ence.
be measured by their scale justice of this arrangement ? indeed, they still show some deferis to
;
they
their quarrels among their various countries observe certain principles, and murder one another
In
But it is only within the according to fixed rules. limits of Europe that this holds good, and it is thought
superfluous to observe the law of nations toward uncivilized people. Though confident of the skill of their
and the excellence of their arms, the Europeans a cautious policy. pursue Inglorious conquerors and attack the Orientals as if they victors, they ungenerous
soldiers
had nothing
to fear,
and
treat
them when subdued
as
formidable enemies.
"Achieving by diplomacy what they have failed to do in battle, they victimize the natives alike in peace and war; binding them to pernicious alliances, imposing conditions on their trade, occupying their ports, annexing their provinces, and treating as rebels the tribes who It is true that they can not submit to such a yoke. moderate their proceedings toward those states which yet boast some vigor, and they show a degree of consideration for Canton and Nangasaki, which would be
absurd in regard to Palambeng or Colombo.*
* This was written in 1829. M. Abel Re'musat would probably have omitted this sentence had he written in 1840, after the English war with China.
92
a perversion of ideas, more strange perhaps than the abuse of power, our writers take part with our disappointed adventurers, blame the Asiatics for pre-
"By
cautions rendered prudent and natural by our own conduct, and exclaim against their want of hospitality. are indignant at their being suspicious of such dan-
We
gerous neighbors, and when they decline the disinterested advances of our merchants, cry out that they reCivilization, as far as ject the benefits of civilization. they are concerned, appears to mean cultivating the
ground industriously, that the Europeans may be supplied with cotton, silk, and spice, paying taxes to them a murmur, their laws regularly, and changing, without The and customs, in spite of tradition and climate. made of Tartars have late great progress years ; Nogay the nomadic life of their fathers, have abandoned they and the tax-gatherer knows where to find them when
tribute is due.
are
The ancient subjects of Queen Obcira much improved since the days of Captaia Cook, for
they have embraced Methodism, and attend divine servin black cloth coats, thus furnishing a new market for the manufactures of Somerset and Gloucester.
ice
Travelers have lately remarked with pleasure a prince of the Sandwich Isles holding his court- clad in a red coat and waistcoat ; and it was only to be regretted that the heat of the climate prevented his completing the
costume.
"
But, however imperfect and
awkward
these imita-
tions
may
be,
however grotesque and
useless, they are
to be encouraged for their possible consequences. The time -may come when the Hindoos will use our muslins
instead of weaving their own,
when China,
instead of
exporting silk, shall import it, when the Esquimaux .shall shiver in calico shirts, or the inhabitants of the Torrid Zone melt under our felt hats and woolen garments.
93
"Let
in favor of
these people give up their own manufactures European trade ; let them renounce their
ideas, their language, and literature, all in short that composes their national individuality, and learn to
think, feel,
and speak
like us,
purchasing these useful
lessons at the price of their territory and independence ; let them be complaisant to our academicians, devoted
to the interests of our merchants, tractable
and suband they may be allowed to have made some steps toward civilization, and permitted to take rank at a great distance behind the privileged peomissive in
all things,
ple,
the race par excellence to
whom it is given to possess,

to instruct."*
to govern, to comprehend,
and
These remarks may be thought a little severe by but whoever has traversed Asia and general readers visited the European colonies will be forced to confess that the conquered race is almost every where treated harshly and insolently, by men who pique themselves on their civilization, and sometimes on their Christian;
ity.
We have
happy Mandarin
strayed very far from Han-tchouan and the to whom the town solemnly presented
The a pair of boots at the moment of his departure. reader has doubtless forgotten that it was d propos of this manifestation of popular feeling that we were led
to speak of the elements of liberty that exist in China, and which sometimes exhibit themselves in such a cu-
rious guise.
The
Han-tchouan on
of greatest panegyric pronounced by the people their favorite magistrate was, that he
always administered justice in person and in public. Among the Chinese magistracy this is now a rare merit ; for things are fallen into such decay in that unhappy country, that the greater part of the Mandarins, whether
*
Melanges Asiatiques.
04
from idleness or from reluctance to display their inabilthemselves. They sit in ity, never administer justice a private cabinet, generally separated from the tribunal
by a
retire
partition only.
The complainants
discuss their
affairs in
presence of the scribes and functionaries,
who
.
from time to time to report progress, according to their own ideas, to the unworthy judge, as he lies on a comfortable divan, much more busied with his pipe and cup of tea than with the life or fortune of the hapless The judge is not even troubled to pronounce litigant. it is sentence brought to him ready drawn up, and he has only to put his seal to it. This method has become
;
so prevalent that a magistrate

preside in person,
self,
who
takes the trouble to
is
and interrogate the disputants himas an extraordinary man, worthy of regarded
public admiration.
were obliged to stop at Han-tchouan for two whole days, during which the wind blew with incessant violence. Nobody thought of embarking on the Blue River, for we had not forgotten the disastrous wreck of the Secretary of Song-tche-hien, and our repeated grounding on the bank.
We
Although little desirous of retaining the charge of our precious and illustrious persons, the Mandarins of Hantchouan preferred
wreck.
it to incurring the responsibility of a Regretting, however, to lose the advantage of this little storm, which refreshed the air delightfully, we ourselves proposed to our guides to continue our
journey by land, hoping that the wind would not be strong enough to tear our palanquins off the shoulders
of the bearers. But Master Ting objected, saying that the perils of wreck were much more imminent in the land journey than the river transit. could not understand this until he further informed us that in leav-
We
ing Han-tchouan
it
would be impossible
to avoid water-
95
carriage, as the river lay on one side and a great lake on the other one of the two we must necessarily cross. The boats with which the lake was navigated were so frail and ill-built that it was impossible they could resist the force of the storm we were therefore obliged to resign ourselves to our fate, and wait patiently. As soon as the wind abated, we resumed our journey by land. Five years before, a French missionary had followed the same route, also escorted by Mandarins and their satellites, but under very different circumstances. We were free, surrounded by homage, and traveling in comfort ; he, on the contrary, was loaded with chains, and assailed with ceaseless insults by the pitiless wretches
;
who accompanied him

was
gle.
yet in the eyes of the true faith
his progress a triumphal march, for he was going full of strength and courage ta engage in a sainted strug-
After enduring long and frightful torments with unalterable constancy in the capital of Hou-pe, he perished gloriously with the palm of martyrdom in his grasp, and
followed
by
the admiration of the whole Catholic world.
As we
traveled along the route from Han-tchouan, sanctified by the sufferings of the venerable Perboyre, the
details of that long martyrdom which we ourselves had had the consolation of narrating to our friends in Europe, arose once more in our minds, filling us with sweet emcK
tion
our eyes were wet, but the tears shed over the memory of a martyr are more those of pleasure than of
;
pain.
For two hours we followed narrow tortuous paths, now winding among hills of red earth, where cotton and indigo grew in abundance, now running through valleys between verdant plantations of rice. Soon we caught
sight of the lake Ping-kou,
ruffled
whose blue
surface, slightly
a light breeze, glittered in the sun as if covered with innumerable diamonds. Three boats were lying
by
X.
ready for us at the bank ; our party was soon embarked; long sails made of bamboo, and folded like fans, were quickly hoisted, and we pushed off. The wind
numbers being insufficient, its place was supplied by of rowers ; toward noon, however, the breeze strengthened, and carried us rapidly over a magnificent lake.
We encountered boats
of every size and shape, carrying as well as numerous fishand merchandise, passengers
ing smacks, distinguished by the black nets hung on the mast. The various vessels passing and repassing with their yellow sails and striped flags, the vague in-
murmur floating around, the aquatic birds hovover the lake and diving suddenly after their prey, ering all this presented a most charming and animated picture
definite
to the eye.
passed several floating islands, those curious productions of Chinese ingenuity, which no other peo-
We
These floating ple seemed ever to have thought of. islands are enormous rafts, generally constructed of
bamboos, which
resist the
decomposing influence of the

;
the raft is laid a tolerably and, thanks to the patient labors of a few families of aquatic agriculturists, the as-
water for a long time. thick bed of vegetable
Upon
soil
tonished traveler beholds a whole colony lying on the surface of the water pretty houses with their gardens,
as well as fields and plantations of every sort. The inhabitants of these floating farms appear to enjoy peace
and abundance.
During the leisure time which is not occupied by the culture of their rice-fields they employ themselves in fishing, which is at the same time a pastime and a source of profit ; and often, after gathering a crop of grain from the surface of the lake, they cast their nets and bring up a harvest of fish from its
depths ; for these waters teem with creatures fit for the use of man. Many birds, particularly swallows and

pigeons, Ibuild their nests in these floating isles, liven the peaceful and poetic solitude.
07
and en-
Toward the middle

these islands on
its
of the lake
to take
we
encountered one of
way
moved very
slowly,
up a fresh position. It though there was a good deal of
wind, and large sails were attached to the houses as well as to each corner of the island: the inhabitants,
men, women, and children, lent their strength to aid its' progress, "by working at large oars but their efforts did not seem materially to increase the speed at which they moved. However, these peculiar mariners do not probably trouble themselves much about delay, as they are sure of sleeping on land, at whatever pace they may go. Their migrations are often without any apparent motive. Like the Mongols in their vast prairies, they wander at will; but, more fortunate than these latter, they have constructed for themselves a little solitude in the midst of civilization, and unite the charms of a nomadic
;
life
to the advantages of a sedentary abode. floating islands are to be found on all the great lakes of China, and at first sight present an enchanting
These
picture of happiness and plenty, while it is impossible not to admire the ingenious industry of these Chinese,
But when you so singular in all their, proceedings. consider the cause of their construction, the labor and
patience necessary for their creation, by people unable to find a corner of the solid earth on which to establish
themselves, the smiling picture assumes a darker tint, and the mind endeavors vainly to penetrate the future of a race so numerous that the land will no longer hold
it,
and which has sought a resting-place on the surface
of the waters.
The
traveler in the Celestial Empire, reflecting on its
countless myriads of inhabitants, whose numbers increase year by year with frightful rapidity, is almost
VOL.
II.
98
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESK EMPIRE.
tempted to wish that China should experience one of those exterminating scourges by which Providence arrests from time to time the rapid increase of too fertile
races.
The
debate
population of China has been the subject of much among European authors, who had no means of
The Chinese statistics care and in each province with ; are, nevertheless, kept the heads of families are required to inscribe their numcoming to exact conclusions.
bers in registers kept for the purpose, and the total numbers are collected and published.
The method of registration has varied much even in modern times; numerous classes of non-ratepaying individuals have been omitted from the census, and hence
results the difference in the calculation of the Chinese
population presented to us at different times. The three following accounts appear to be equally authentic, though the largest number surpasses the
smallest
by 183,000,000:
150,265,475 198,214,552 333,000,000
In 1743, according to Father Arniot " Father Hallerstein In 1761, " Lord Macartney In 1794,
The most recent census taken under the Mantchou dynasty raises the total number to 361,000,000. We have not the information necessary to examine this calculation and decide with certainty, but we do not doubt
the correctness of the estimate in spite of the enormous
number
registered. It is easy to form perfectly opposite ideas of the population of China, according to the route by which you
traverse
it.
If,
for
example, in the central provinces
you
travel along the roads, you would be led to believe the country much less populous than it really is. The
villages are
few and
far
considerable that
you might
between, the waste lands so at times fancy yourself in
99
the deserts of Tartaiy. But traverse the same province by the canals or rivers, and the aspect of the country is Often you pass huge cities, containentirely changed.
ing not less than two or three millions of inhabitants, while smaller towns and great villages follow each other
in almost uninterrupted succession. It is difficult to conceive where these numberless multitudes, whose mere
habitations seem to cover the whole surface of the land, can find means of subsistence, and the estimate of three
hundred and sixty-one millions would seem rather under than over the truth. A celebrated Chinese moralist, Te-siou, refers to "tien," or heaven, the alternate increase and diminution of the population of the Empire.
"The events," he says, "which cause the increase and diminution of mankind are so various and so closely connected, so slow and so efficacious, that policy and A mart must foresight are powerless to oppose them. be very ignorant of our history to see only a chain of natural causes in the hidden manoeuvres of heaven with the generations of mankind, increasing or reducing them A man according to its views for the whole Empire. must be very little of a philosopher not to see that war, pest, famine, and great revolutions, confound every system, from the impossibility of foreseeing their causes,
arresting their ravages, or effects on the population.
nasties is
calculating
their ultimate
experience of past dylost to the present generation ; the very meas-
The
ures successful in one century in the next."
may become
destructive
ist, ik
respect the caution of the Chinese moralseems to us, nevertheless, that several secondary causes might be assigned for the prodigious population such as the general eagerness of parents to of China
;
Though we
marry
their children, the
shame attached
to
dying with-
100
out descendants, the frequent adoptions which perpetuate families, the retention of property in the direct line from
the incapacity of girls to inherit, the immutability of taxes, which, always imposed on the land only, fall indirectly on the merchant and artisan, the marriage of soldiers
and
sailors, the
wise policy of conferring nobility
only on employments, which, by distinguishing men and not families, prevents their rank becoming hereditary,
and destroys the vain prejudice of mesalliances, the
way of life of all classes all these causes, perthe rapid increase of the Chinese population, favor haps, but it is doubtless referable above all to the profound
frugal
peace which the Empire has enjoyed *for the last two
hundred years.
At the present moment this peace exists no longer an insurrection which broke out three years ago threatens a general movement throughout the country, and the If this revolution should fall o the Tartar dynasty. resemble those which have preceded it, the details of which in the History of China it is impossible to read without shuddering if civil war, with its horrible train of massacres and incendiarism should continue much longer, the population will be frightfully reduced, and the Chinese Avho survive the carnage will be able to find abodes without, as now, having recourse to floating islands on the surface of the lakes. Just as our pleasant journey on the Ping-hou was approaching its termination, we encountered a long file of fishing boats which were rowing back to their ports. Instead of nets, they carried a great number of cormorants, perched on the edges of the boats.
; ;
It is a curious spectacle to see these creatures in fishing, diving into the water, with a fish in their beak. As the
engaged
and always coming up
Chinese fear the vigorous appetite of their feathered associates, they fasten
101
round their necks an iron ring, large enough to allow of their breathing, but too small to admit the passage of the fish they seize: to prevent their straying about in the water, and wasting the time destined for work, a
cord
is
attached to the ring and to one claw of the cor-
by which he is pulled up when inclined to stay When tired, he is permitted to too long under water. rest for a few minutes, but if he abuses this indulgence, and forgets his business, a few strokes of a bamboo remorant,
call him to duty, and the poor diver patiently resumes In passing from one fishing his laborious occupation. the to cormorants another, perch side by side on ground
the edge of the boat, and their instinct teaches them to range themselves of their own accord in nearly equal numbers on each side, so as not to disturb the equilib-
rium of the
frail
vessel
we saw them thus ranged

of fishing smacks on
throughout the
little fleet
Lake
is larger than the domestic duck; it has a short neck and long beak, slightly hooked at the Never very elegant in appearance, it is perfectly end. hideous after it has passed the day in fishing. Its wet
Ping-hou. The cormorant
and tumbled plumage stands on end all over its meagre body, and it hunches itself up till nothing is to be seen but a frightful shapeless lump. Having passed Lake Ping-hou, we re-entered our
palanquins and arrived toward night at Han-yang, a The shoplarge town on the banks of the Blue River.
keepers were already lighting their lanterns, and numerous groups of artisans who had finished their daily labor were on their way to the theatre, singing and
they went, while at the street corners were spectators gathered round jugglers and public readers. Every thing wore the lively, animated air of
frolicking as
a densely-populated city, when, after the fatigues of a
102

all feel
day of toil, amusement.
the necessity of a
little
rest
and
The public promenade is a thing Chinese, who can not perceive cither
wholesomeness.
unknown
its
to the
its
charms or
Those who have some notion of Eu-
ropean manners think it very singular, if not utterly absurd, that we should find pleasure in walking for its own sake. When they hear that we consider it a refreshment and amusement, they regard us eccentric, or entirely devoid of common-sense.
as
very
The Chinese
of the interior
whom
business takes to
Canton or Macao, always go the first thing to look at the Europeans on the promenade. It is one of the most amusing of sights for them. They squat in rows along the sides of the quays, smoking their pipes and fanning themselves, contemplating the Avhile with a satirical and contemptuous eye the English and Americans who promenade up and down from one end to the other, keeping time with admirable precision. Europeans who
China are apt to consider the inhabitants of the Empire very odd and supremely ridiculous, and the provincial Chinese at Canton and Macao pay baek this sentiment with interest. It is very amusing to hear their sarcastic remarks on the appearance of the go
to
Celestial
their tight-fitting garments,
devils of the west, their utter astonishment at sight of their wonderful trowsers,
and prodigious round

shirt-collars
hats,
like
chimney-pots
the
and making a frame around sucli grotesque faces, with long noses and blue eyes, no beard or mustache, but a handful of curly hair on each cheek. The shape of the dress-coat puzzles them above every thing. They try in vain to
adapted to cut off the ears,
it, calling it a half garment, because it is to make it meet over the breast, and because impossible there is nothing in front to correspond to the tails be-
account for

hind.
103
They admire the judgment and exquisite taste of putting buttons as big as sapecks behind the back How where they never have any thing to button.
much handsomer they think themselves with their narrow, oblique, black eyes, high cheek bones, and little
shaven crowns and magnificent pigAdd to all these almost to their heels. hanging natural graces a conical hat, covered with red fringe,
round noses,
tails
their
'
an ample tunic with
large sleeves, and black satin boots, with a white sole of immense thickness, and it must be evident to that a European can not com-
^1
pare in appearance with a Chinese. But it is in their way of life that they hold themselves
most particularly superior to us. When they see Europeans spend hours in walking for the mere sake of the exercise, they ask if it is not more conformable to civilized ideas to sit down quietly to smoke and drink tea when you have nothing else to do, or, still better, to go to bed at once. The idea of meeting to spend the greater part of the night in amusements and gayety has
not yet presented itself to them. They are like our worthy ancestors before they hit upon the plan of prolonging the day till midnight and the night till noon. All the Chinese, even of the highest class, go to bed in time to get up at sunrise, New Year's Day and certain
On these occasions they do family festivals exccpted. In general, not allow themselves a moment's repose.
they follow the course of the heavenly bodies in their arrangement of day and night. At those hours which,
in the great cities of Europe, arc the
tumultuous, the
cities of
most noisy and China enjoy the most profound
tranquillity. Every one has retired into his family ; all " the shops are closed ; the boatmen, the mountebanks, the public readers, have finished their sittings, and no-
thing like business
is
to
be seen, except, perhaps, in a
104
few theatres, which depend mostly on the favor of the working-classes, who have only the night at their disposal, in
which
to enjoy the favorite
amusement of
see-
ing a play.
We
streets of
took more than an hour to traverse the long Han-yang. At last they deposited us at the
extremity of a suburb, in a sort of house which we It was not a communal not how to describe. an nor nor a inn, nor a prison, nor a tribunal, palace,
know
pagoda.
It was,
we were
told,
an establishment des-
tined for a variety of uses, whiqfc. the authorities of the were received place had prepared for our reception.
We
very coldly by an old Chinese, a little retired Mandarin, who introduced us into a spacious saloon, the only fur-
which consisted in a feAV dislocated arm-chairs, and its whole illumination in a large red candle made of some vegetable fat, which gave out, together with much smoke, a dull and lugubrlom light.
niture of
The
candle, sat himself
old Chinese filled his pipe, lighted it at the down at the end of a bench, and
at us. As the behavior of this individual was little to our taste, we took no notice of him, but began- to promenade the room, at the risk of being considered barbarians. An
began to smoke, without even looking
entire
day passed
in a boat or in a palanquin gave us,
we
thought, the right to stretch our legs a little. While we promenaded, and while the retired
old
had silently We remained for a long time thus, and disappeared. found the position rather unpleasant, since no Mandarin of Han-yang', either great or small, had honored us with his presence, and no one had even had the politeness to order us a cup of tea, though, as it was very late, some refreshments would have been by no means superfluous. Our Chinese always maintained the same attitude withhis pipe, our conductors
Mandarin
smoked
105
out iroubling himself about us in the smallest degree, and we on our side affected not to pay any attention to him. At length Master Ting appeared, and we asked
him what all this meant, and what was to come of it, but saw by his surprise that he understood the situation no better than we did ourselves. However, it must end
somehow.
He
filling
who was
then began to question the old Chinese, his pipe for about the tenth time, and he
replied, without disturbing hiwiself, and scarcely looking at us, that no one had given him any orders about us,
that he did not
from, or where
know who we were, where we came we were going to that he was himself
;
very much surprised at seeing so many people suddenly invade the establishment of which he was the guardian,
at so late
an hour.
After he had thus expressed his
thoughts very phlegmatically, he replaced his pipe in

his mouth,
and began to smoke again. It was evidently to enter into negotiation with a person of this impossible so we determined upon paying a visit to the stamp,
prefect.
Our reception was polite enough, but extremely cold. The prefect said he thought we should have gone that
same evening to the capital of the province, on the oppobank of the river, and consequently he had not made any preparation to receive us. " Since you are " I will he not to
site
added, Ou-tchang-fou to-night," going go and give orders to have you taken care of in the House of Guests, whither they have conducted you." This meant that the prefect had played us a trick a la
CAinoise, to spare himself the expense
and trouble of
He knew very well, giving us an official reception. better than we did, that it was not possible for us to go in one day from Han-tchoAn to Ou-tchang-fou, and that
we must
thought
it
necessarily pass the night at Han-yang. was not worth while to be angry about this,
We
E*
106
and we returned quietly to the above-mentioned House of Guests, with the prospect of finding our imperturbable Chinese still in the same place smoking his pipe. had, however, committed a great fault in taking
We
leave of the prefect. so politely, and without speaking a little sharply to him ; for, imagining that AVC were very
easily satisfied, lie did not fail to take advantage of it. returned to our Chinese, whom, sure enough, we
We
found
still
seated on hi* bench,
and the red candle,
though burnt down to a small end, was still alight, its great wick surrounded by a little flame and a great deal One of the prefect's servants soon of thick smoke. presented himself, bearing a basket divided into several On compartments, which contained a slender supper. of the House of Guests the rose, guardian seeing him,
and went into a neighboring apartment to fetch a which he placed against the wall, and upon it the
table,
afore-
said red candle, snuffing it very dexterously by giving Master Ting, who was hungry, a fillip to the wick.
had already taken his place on one side of the table, but when he saw the nature A great bowl of of the banquet sent us by the prefect. rice boiled in water, placed between two little plates, one containing some morsels of salt fish, and the other some slices of bacon this was the supper. The Prefect of Han-yang seemed inclined to abuse the privilege he thought he possessedôf treating us accordMaster Ting was foaming ing to his will and pleasure. with rage, and threatened to eat up the poor servant who had brought the basket. We had to exert all our influence to restrain him, and make him understand
his visage lengthened piteously
;
that
it
was not
offense of the
fair to impute to this poor man the bacon and saWNish ; but our vanity was
so mortified at the proceeding, that we completely departed from the line of conduct we had marked out for

ourselves
in our
relations
107
with the Mandarins, and,
master, and thank him for his obliging generosity, and at the same time we begged Master Ting to go and order us a proper
yielding to a puerile emotion of pride, servant to cany back the viands to his
we
told
the
supper at the nearest tavern, since our own expense at Han-yang.
we meant
to live at
The
rice
prefect's
and the
major-domo carried away the bowl of accessories, and soon afterward we were
to the
doing the honors of a magnificent supper that we gave Mandarins of our escort, at the expense of two
It appeared to us at the time that we ounces of silver. were acting with incomparable dignity, and that we had But our selfgot most majestically out of the scrape. conceit blinded us, and hindered us from seeing that, underafter all, we had done a very stupid thing. stood this the next day, after a night's rest had enabled us to take a more tranquil view of our position. had forgotten that we were in China, and that Mandarins were by no means the men who could have any feeling What we ought to have done would of honor piqued. have been to have ordered an entertainment of the first
We
We
and have made the prefect pay for it, and after that to have remained one or two days at Han-yang.
class,
This strange system was so well adapted to the Chinese character, that it had succeeded perfectly all along the But we had been foolish enough, in a moment of road. to abandon it, and AVC had to suffer for our folly anger, for after that we had incredible trouble to recover our
;
former position.
We quitted Han-yang with lively feelings

tion,
of satisfac-
without even regretting that ancient guardian of the House of Guests, who dismissed us. with the same grace and amiability that he had exhibited in our reception.
108
The journey we were to make that day, though not long, was not, it was said, altogether without danger. We had only to cross the Blue River and when we went to the shore we could see the vague and imper;
fectly-defined outline of an immense town, almost entirely enveloped in fog; this was Ou-tchany-fou, the capi
tal
of the province
were moving rapidly down or slowly up this " River The wind Child of the Sea," as the Chinese call it. was blowing from the south, which was favorable
Han-yang by the great arm of the
river,
of Hou-pe, only separated from which in this place resembles a Multitudes of enormous junks sea.
enough
for us, as
we only wanted
was extremely
for
violent,
a side wind but it and as the passage-boats we

;
found stationed at the shore appeared much too slight stormy weather in these impetuous waters, we hesitated a little before embarking in them. The example,
however, of many other travelers, who made no difficulty, having reassured us, we entered a boat, which soon
carried us
away with almost
terrific rapidity.
When
we were
near the middle of the river, we met with a that sent our boat so much on her side, that her squall sails for a moment touched the water. At length, after
a passage of three quarters of an hour, we arrived without accident in the port of Ou-tchang-fou, where we were detained more than two hours opening a passage for
ourselves through the prodigious mass of junks in the After that we had a real journey to go anchorage.
through the streets of this vast city
and
it
was
after-
noon by the time we were
installed in our lodgings, not far from the Governor's Palace.
CHAPTER
Bad Lodging
IV.
in a Little Pagoda Ou-tchang-fou, Capital of Hou-Pe Limits of the Chinese Empire Mountains Rivers Lakes Climate Principal Productions Chinese Industry Causes of its Decline Former Exhibitions of the Productions of Arts Relations of the Chinese with Foreigners Present State of their Commerce with Europeans Internal Trade of China Interest of Money System of Chinese Economists upon Interest of Thirty per cent. Pecuniary Immense Commercial Mart in the Centre of the Empire Societies System of Canals Aptitude of the Chinese for Commerce Monetary System Influence of the Sapeck Infinitesimal Trade.
THE
built,
place where
we had been
was a
located since our ar-
rival at Ou-tchang-fou
pagoda quite lately and of which the Bonzes had not yet taken possession. It was clean, but far from commodious. We had at our disposal but one narrow chamber, to which air and light only penetrated by a single sky-light; it was opposite a high wall, and the heat in it was suffocating. All the Mandarins we saw promised to attend immedibut probably no ately to our request to be removed one of them thought any more about it, for we were still
;
little
left pitilessly in this
hot-house.
We were
suffering
the consequences of the diplomatic blunders
now we had
made at Han-yang. The little Mandarin
of that town, who had been charged to take us across the Blue River to Ou-tchangfou had, doubtless, not failed to compromise us by say-
ing that
to cheat.
we were very good
sort of people, and easy In vain did Master Ting protest the contrary
no one believed him. They knew that when the sent to us the supper by prefect of Han-yang did not
110
please us,
we had very
quietly,
and Avithout making any
from the complaint, ordered another at our own expense for them to Thus there was no necessity restaurateur. be quite give themselves any trouble ; we should always did not kill us. if content, only they Such were the consequences of a moment of weakness.
We understood now how completely in
the right we had been hitherto, in being obstinate and refractory with the Mandarins, who are always disposed to become the tyrants and persecutors of those who do not know how
make them tremble. There was also, we found, another cause for the illwill manifested toward us by the authorities of OuSome months before our arrival in this tchang-fou. town a Spanish missionary had been discovered and He had been brought to the arrested in the province. he had had to undergo several judicial where Capital, after and examinations, being harassed in various ways, and detained long in the public prisons, he was taken to Macao (with a chain round his neck), conformably to the treaties concluded between the various European
to
powers, at the conclusion of the war with the English.
This good Spanish priest, whose patience and resignation greatly exceeded ours, had allowed the inhabitants of Ou-tchang-fou to assume a tone and deportment of
which we now became the victims.
If
we
complained,
they replied that we ought to consider ourselves very fortunate that we were neither imprisoned nor put in irons.
We
ought to be
full
of gratitude for not having our

it
throats cut.
We
considered, however, that
was our duty, not
only for our own sakes, but for those of the missionaries who should come after us, to endeavor to combat
these views.
We
formed our plan therefore, and only

for
waited a favorable moment
putting
it
in execution.
Ill
As
our hot narrow
cell
was an extremely disagreeable
place to stop in, we determined to take some walks in the town, in company with our dear Master Ting, who
ince of Sse-tchouen,
to
was longing exceedingly to see again his beloved provand to have nothing more to do
;
with the barbarians of Hou-pe
but in order to be able
freely through the streets, without exit was attention, indispensable to lay aside citing public and red girdles. our yellow caps provisionally
first
move more
Ou-tchang-fou was already well known to us, for in the year of our abode in China we had had occasion to
town, one of the chief commercial places and communicating with all the other
visit this great
in the Empire,
provinces
by
the Blue River.
We have
seen that
Han-
opposite to Ou-tchang-fou ; another immense " Mouth of called Han-keou, that is, town, Commerce," is still nearer to it, situated at the confluence of a being
yang
is
river that throws itself into the Yang-tse-kiang, almost
under the walls of the
These three towns, and only a form kind the of from which river, heart, separated by the prodigious commercial activity of China circulates to
capital.
standing in a triangle, in sight of one another,
parts of the Empire. are calculated to contain together nearly eight millions of inhabitants, and they are so closely connected by the perpetual going and coming of a multiall
They
tude of vessels, that they

one.
may
almost be said to form
This
is
would wish
the spot that must be visited by those who to have an idea of the internal trade of China.
But, before entering upon some details connected with the subject, which we hope may not be found without
interest, it
raphy and
seems desirable to cast a glance at the geogstatistics of this vast and powerful Asiatic Empire, the richest, the most ancient, and the most
112
populous existing on the face of the earth, or of which history has preserved any recollection. China, properly so called, without counting its vast and numerous tributary kingdoms, is a great continental country, situated in
Asia.
It is
bounded
to the south
the eastern and central parts of and east by the Pacific the
Ocean, to the north
the great desert of Gobi, called in Chinese the " Sea of Sand," to the west by the mountains of Thibet, and to
by
Yn
chain of mountains and
by the less elevated ranges that extend limits of the Burmese Empire and Tonquin. the along Under the reign of Kien-long, second emperor of the Mantchou dynasty, three provinces were taken from the
the southwest
country formerly known under the names of Leao-tong, and Mantchuria, and were added to China. According
to this arrangement, the present frontiers of the
follow the northern shore of the
Empire Gulf of Leao-tong, pro-
ceeding from Chan-kai-Jeouan, one of the gates of the Great Wall, to the mouth of the Ya-lou : from this point
the frontier line leaves the coast of the gulf, and extends from west to east across the peninsula of Corea, as far as the sea of Japan, following the shore of that sea in a
northeasterly direction ; the point that marks the
frontier,
little
way
then proceeds northward to of the Russian to the north of the mouth of the
it
commencement
Amour, or Black River. Thence the line which separates the two empires follows generally the chain of mountains of Hing-ngan, then proceeds southwestward as far as the Black River, which it crosses at its confluence with the Argoun, and stops at the lakes of Koulun and Bouir.
At
Chinese frontier line quits the Russian, between the two the country of the Khalkas and leaving then stretches to the southeast as far as the Mongolia ; it crosses at Bedoune, and which San-gari, goes on again
this place the
till it
joins the
wooden palisade of Leao-tong following

;

#
113
this barrier from northwest to southwest, to its junction with the Great Wall, at a short distance to the west of
Chaii-hai-kouan.
frontier then follows the Great Wall, various sinuosities, westward to the with proceeding, Yellow River, and separating the country of the Mongols from the two provinces of Petche-li and Chan-si. After crossing the Yellow River, toward the middle of
The Chinese
the branch which proceeds to the south, it runs first southwest and then northwest, between the country of the Ortoos on the north, and the province of Chen-si on the south ; then joins the Yellow River a second time, toward the middle of that part of it which tends north-
ward, crosses it, again taking a southerly course, after having embraced the territory of UTing-hia ; and then coasts first the left and then the right bank as far as latitude 37 from this point it leaves the river, turning to the northwest, until it has reached latitude 40, in
:
the department of Sou-tcheou, and continues to follow the same direction as far as 44. That is the extremity
of China on the northwest.
The
frontier then returns to
the southeast, leaving the sandy deserts and the country of the Iou-kou-noor, and having reached Si-ning, it deof
scends to the south, coasting successively the provinces Kan-sou and Sse-tchouen. Its direction becomes a
westerly in the countries where the great rivers that flow from the high mountains of Thibet pour their waters into the immense stream, called by the Chinese, par excellence, Kiang, or The River. After this it turns
little
again towards the east, proceeds, with various sinuosities, between the country of the Birmans and Cochin
China on one side, and the provinces of Yan-nan and Kouan-si on the other, to the point whence we set out. According to the frontier line we have just traced, it will be seen that China presents the form of a circle, or
114
rather of an equilateral parallelogram from which the It advances on the south to angles have been cut off.
three degrees beyond the tropic of Cancer, and extends northward to latitude 41, presenting, toward the northeast and northwest, two prolongations, of which one
reaches beyond the 40th, and the other to the 56th parWithout taking, for the present, allel of north latitude.
two prolongations into account, that China is comprised between 20

these
tude, wich.
it
will
be seen
of
lati-
and 42
and 97
of longitude E. from GreenIts entire area contains an extent of 1575 miles
and 123
from north to south, and 1800 from east to west, or 2,835,000 square miles more than eight times the
surface of France.
China forms a considerable portion of the immense slope from the mountains of Thibet to the shores of the The mountains on its western side arc Eastern Ocean. dependencies of the great mountain mass of Central Asia, which is continued eastward by two principal ranges ; of which one bears the Chinese name of T/tsinling, or Blue Mountains, and stretches to the southeast, between the parallels of 31 and 34, and the other, known under the name of Nan-ling, Mountains of the South, cast-southeast, between the parallels of 24 and 27. The mountains of Thsin-ling and Nan-ling, marked in most of the maps of China as continuous chains, are in reality only mountain masses, of which the general direction is toward the northeast. The Chinese soil presents also several other great broken chains, formed of separate groups, tending in the same direction. Such arc those which extend from the eastern point of Chantong, in the island of Hai-nan, and from Thai-tong,
near the province of Chan-si, in the north, to the fronThis general direction from southtiers of Tonquin. west to northeast is also that of the line of volcanoes,
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE^ EMPIRE.
115
which is continued across the great island of Formosa, the Archipelago of lAeou-tchieou and Japan, as far as The learned geologist M. Elie the Aleutian Islands. de Beaumont has shown that it coincides with the great
the terrestrial sphere which passes by the Cordilleras of South America and the Rocky Mountains of the North ; whence it seems we may infer that the
circle of
mountain system of Oriental Asia, and that of the great American chains, are of the same date. The earthquakes, the
mud
the eruptions, the upheavings of
soil,
which have been observed in China from the remotest antiquity, have in fact a striking analogy with phenomena of the same kind that have taken place in the two Americas. There is no volcano now in action in
China, but it is certain that over a great extent of counand in the province of Chan-si try the soil is volcanic there are many volcanic vents, emitting sulphurous compounds Solfatarus, as they are called which are turned
;
to economical uses
by
the inhabitants.
mountain groups in China, flow a great number of streams, which mostly fall into one or other of the immense rivers - Yang-tse-kiang, that we have called the Blue River, and the Iloang-ho,
Parallel to these series of
Both take their rise in the eastern or Yellow River. mountains of Thibet, between 34 and 35 of north latitude. Their mouths also are at no great distance from one another but during their course they leave between them a prodigious tract of country, of which we have already spoken elsewhere. As the Chinese geographers class the mountains according to their own
;
and distinguish live principal ones, whose positions they describe mostly according to historical tradition, so also they mention four rivers, under the name
ideas,
of Sse-tou, "The Four Flo wings ;" namely, the liang, To these must be the Ho, the Iloui, and the Tsi.
116
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMI'IKK
added a considerable number of rivers that fall into the sea, but which do not equal, cither in length or volume, the tributaries of the Yellow and Blue llivers. There are in China several great lakes, among which
are distinguished five principal ones ; namely, the Lake Tlioung-thing, on the confines of Ilou-nan and Ilou-pe;
secondly, the
si; the
ly,
Lake Pkou-yong, in the province of Ki.ang~ Lake thirdly, Houng-tse, in Kiang-sou; fourthly, Si-hou or Western Lake, in Tclie-kiang : and fifth' Lake Tai-hou, or the Great Lake, on the borders
There are also other of Kiang-sou and Tche-kiang. smaller and less celebrated lakes, principally in Yan-iian. The climate of a country that extends from the tropic
56 of latitude, must of course differ excessively in the different provinces ; and it does in fact present, every variety of the temperate, and some also of both
to
the frigid and torrid zones. The province of the Black River has Winters like those of Siberia, and the heat of Canton is equal to that of Hindostan. You see rein-
deer in the north and elephants in the south. Between these two extremes is found every variation of temperature and climate. Thus, at Pekin, in latitude 40, the thermometer falls during the three winter
months
of heat.
22
is
9'.
30 below zero, and rises in summer to 30 At Canton, lat. 23, the mean temperature is The air in China is mostly very salubrious, which
to
the more remarkable, as the most general cultivation, at least all over the southern parts, is that of rice.
This advantage may no doubt be partly attributed to happy arrangement of the great basins being open to the most healthy winds, but also partly to the wise measures adopted for the improvement of the country in the cultivation of the banks of the lakes and marshy
the
lands, procuring a free passage for the waters of rivers and streams, and subjecting to judicious management

the
117
prosperity of the
ants.
work of irrigation, which so materially concerns the Empire and the welfare of the inhabitentire surface of
The
China
may be
divided into three
zones, parallel to the equator, and of which the temperaThe northern ture and products are very different.
zone extends to the 35th parallel, and does not pass to the south beyond the lower valley of the Yellow River. The climate here is much too severe for tea, rice, or the
mostly sown with millet than wheat. A iron and considerable beds of coal, are ores, great many also found here. This precious combustible is indeed found almost all over China; and especially in the It is employed for the common province of Kan-sou. fuel, as well as in the manufacture of iron, lime, etc. The central zone, bounded by the 27th or 26th parallel,
;
common mulberry and barley, which
the land
is
resist the cold better
and the mountains of Xan-ling, has much milder winters

than the northern, and the rice and wheat are excellent 'It there. the possesses, too, the^TJeEter kinds of tea
;
mulberry, the cotton-tree, the jujube, the orange-tree, the sugar-cane, which was imported from India in the eighth century, and the bamboo, which is found, indeed, as far as lat. 38, and which has been applied by the
Chinese to a great variety of purposes. part of this favored zone is celebrated for
tures of silk
The
its
eastern
manufac-
and cotton*; the middle of it passes for the granary of China, and might feed the whole country from its enormous harvests of rice ; the west is rich in
fit for The southern zone, bordered building. the sea, lias the same natural productions as these, by but not generally of as good a quality, as the tempera-
woods
much higher. ^Numerous metalliferous deposits are distributed throughout both zones : gold and silver in the provinces of the south and west ; copper, tin, and
ture is
118
lead, in the central province of Kiang-si ; and mercury in abundance in various forms. Finally, the mountains
of the southwest, in
to be rich in metals of all kinds.
Yan-nan and Kouci-tchcou, are said There are also found
in China, the lapis lazuli, the ruby, the emerald, the corindum,* quartz ; ollaris stone, of which vases, and
especially inkstands, are
made
steatite,
various kinds
of schist, jasper, and serpentine, used in the fabrication of musical instruments ; and the precious green stone
on
set a high value found in Thai-tong, in the province of Chan-si, but most of these stones come from Khootan, and are brought from Tartary by the Bucharians. China has a great number of native animals, among
called jade,
it,
and by the Chinese, who

It is
Yu.
which are several that are little, or not at all, known in Horses are small, and not so valuable as in Europe. some other countries. In the north are found the camel
of Bactriana, the buffalo, various kinds of bears, the badger, the rat, a particular, kind of tiger, and several
species of the leopard,
and panther.
in Europe, and the pig is There are several species
The ox
is less
common than
smaller than the European. of dogs with black tongues.
The
especially a tailless kind, very
common
cat is domesticated, in the south ;
and the white variety, with silky hair, is not unknown. There are several species of rodentia, some of which, indeed, swarm so as to become" a perfect scourge, and traverse the country in immense troops. The jerboa, the flying-squirrel, the otter, the sable, are found in the forests, and the rhinoceros and the Oriental tapir inhabit the western parts of Kouang-si, Yan-nan and Ssetcliouen. Many kinds of stags, goats, and antelopes,, the musk-deer, and other less known ruminants, people
* precious stone, of which there are said to be the hardest after the diamond.
many
varieties,
nnd which
ii
TKANS.
119
the forests and mountains, particularly in the western In the southwest are also found many of provinces.
large kinds of monrelated to the keys, nearly ourang-outang. China, so fertile in all sorts of natural productions,
the
quadrumana, and even some
also possesses a treasure Avithout which the most abundant riches of the soil become useless ; namely, the indus-
In all that concerns the material try of its inhabitants. conveniences of life, the industry of the Chinese is mar-
The origin of various arts among them is lost in the darkness of ages ; but their invention is attributed
velous.
two personages, whose historical existence has often been doubted by the annalists. Since time immemorial the Chinese have known how to manufacture the silk stuffs that have attracted toward them the merchants of the greater part of Asia. The manufacture of porcelain has been brought to a degree of perfection that has been only very lately surpassed in Europe, and which has not yet been equaled
to
for
The bamboo serves for solidity and cheapness. the fabrication of thousands of articles ; their cottons
; they which, notwithstanding the simplicity of their means, they succeed in producing the most varied designs ; their crapes we have not yet been able -to imitate. Besides their hemp-
and nankeens are renowned

excel in
all
the world over

in
making flowered
satins,
en cloths, they make a very strong kind with a sort of ivy called ko. Their furniture, their vases, their instruments and tools of every kind, are remarkable for a
certain ingenious simplicity well deserving of imitation. The polarity of the loadstone had been remarked
among them 2500 years
before our era, although no re-
had been obtained from it. Gunpowder, and other inflammable substances, which
sult favorable to navigation
they make use of for fire-works of a very
effective kind,
120
Were known to them from a remote period ; and it is bebombs and swivel guns, of which they the use to the Tartars in the 13th century, may taught have given the idea of artillery to the Europeans, although the form of the guns and cannon made use of at present was brought to them from France, as the names given to them attest. In all recorded time they
lieved that the
how to work in metals, make musical inWood-enand cut and polish hard stones. struments, date in from the China and stereotype-printing graving middle of the 10th century and they excel in dyeing, Very imperfect imitaembroidery, and lacquered work. tions are produced in Europe of some of the productions of their industry their lively and unchangeable colors, their fine and strong paper, their ink, and many other articles, the manufacture of which requires patience, care, and dexterity. They are fond of imitating models that come to them from foreign countries, and they copy them with the most exact and servile fidelity. They
have known
;
for the Europeans articles adapted and images in china, steatite, or painted wood, are made so cheaply among them, that there might often be economy in getting them from China, as they
even make expressly
to their taste,
could only be executed

expense.
by European workmen
at great
in-
AVe may observe, however, that manufacturing

dustry, like every thing else in China,
is in
a state of
decay, and visibly declining from day to day. Many important secrets connected with it are lost, and the
1
workmen would now be incapable of prothe perfection and finish so much admired in ducing the works of past ages. Thence arises the immoderate passion of the rich Chinese for antiques kou-toon, as
most
skillful
they
call them. They seek with avidity for the silks, bronzes, porcelain, and paintings of ancient date, which

certainly far surpass
121
more modern productions ; but not only do the Chinese of the present day invent nothing and improve nothing, they retrograde perceptibly from the point attained a long time ago. This deplorable state of things is referable to the genand the carelessness of government, which we have had occasion to mention so often. No
eral disorganization
one cares to
offer
any encouragement
;
to the talents and'
merit of artists or artisans
there is nothing to excite

;
any emulation among them and consequently no one endeavors to make any progress, or to distinguish himself above his fellows. Every man of genius capable of giving a salutary impulse to art and industry, is
paralyzed
by
tirely unknown, and are to bring him punishment
the thought that his efforts will remain en-^ indeed of the two more likely
than reward from the govern-
ment.
formerly, and the means now in contribute so powerfully to which Europe, employed all industrial capacities and talents, were once develop
It
was not thus
in use in the
There were public exand useful arts them and the and reward those who never failed to praise magistrates and success. their themselves by diligence distinguished In the accounts of the voyages made by the Arabs in
Chinese Empire.
hibitions for the productions of the fine all citizens were admitted to examine
; ;
China in the 9th century, there is a carious passage, which serves in some measure to explain the astonishing progress made by the Chinese, at an epoch when the other nations of the world were plunged in igno^ ranee and barbarism. " " The of all the Arab
Chinese," says the creatures of God, those
narrator,
are,
who have most
skill in the
hand
tion,
and
in all that concerns the arts of design and fabricafor every kind of work ; they are not in this re-
spect surpassed
by any
nation.
In China, when a
man
VOL.
II.
122
has made any thing that probably no one else would be able to make, he carries it to the governor, demanding a recompense for the progress he has made in the art. The governor immediately orders the article to be placed
at the door of his palace, and keeps it there for a year : if in the course of that time no one finds any fault in it,
he rewards the
artist,
and takes him
into his service
but
is
be pointed out in the work, it any sent back, and no reward given to the maker. "One day, a young man brought a piece of silk stuff,
if
real defect can
on which was represented an ear of corn, with a sparrow perching on it. No one on seeing it could doubt that it was a real ear of corn, and that a sparrow was The stuff remained for some time really sitting upon it.
in the place of exhibition ; at last a humpbacked came and began to criticise the performance. He
man
was
immediately admitted to the governor of the town, and the artist at the same time was sent for. Then they
asked the humpbacked caviler what he had to object to and he said, Every body knows very well that a sparrow could mot perch upon an ear of corn without making it bend ; now the artist has represented it quite straight, and yet he has shown a sparrow perched upon
' ;
it.'
The
observation
was considered just, and the

all this is to
artist
received no reward.
" The purpOKB of the Chinese in
exercise
the talents of the artists, and to force them to reflect maturely upon what they undertake, and devote the
utmost possible care to the works that issue from their

hands."
It is
easy to understand
how these permanent
exhibi-
tions
must
the arts.
excite emulation, and favor the progress of Thus at this epoch China had acquired such
a marked superiority over all the neighboring countries in this respect, that its internal trade obtained an aston-
123
The principal commerce carried on ishing development. with the Romans was for silk, which was effected by
the intervention of the Bucharians, the Persians, and others ; it is this which first made China known in the
West, and
ers
called the
Westerns
to China.
The
foreign-
frequented its ports were so numerous, that toward the end of the 9th century 120,000 of them were
who
massacred at one time at Han-tcheou-fou, the capital of These are the terms in which the Arab Tche-kiang.
writer describes these terrible executions
:
" Events have happened that have put a stop to the directed expeditions against these countries, which have ruined this land (China), and destroyed its power. I am going, please God, to relate what I have read relaThat which has deprived China tive to these events.
of the high position she previously held with respect to laws and justice, and which has interrupted the commercial expeditions toward these regions from the port of Syraf, is the enterprise of a rebel, who did not belong
to the royal house,
man began by
by
little
;
and who was called Bauschena. This then he crafty and disobedient behavior
;
took arms and began to pillage private persons.
Little
bad men
collected
round him
;
his
name became
terrible
his resources increased

;
his ambition took a
and among the towns of China that he higher flight attacked was Khan-fou, the port where the Arab merchants land. Between this town and the sea there is a distance of some days' journey ; its situation is on a great river, and it is bathed by fresh water.* " The inhabitants of Khan-fou having closed their the rebels them a That besieged gates, long time.
* This We have been on the spot descripticm is perfectly accurate. where Khan-fou formerly stood the port exists no longer, being filled up with sand, but the Chinese of the neighborhood have preserved the memory of its commercial importance.
;
124
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIUE.
took place in the course of the year 264 of the Hegira The town was taken at last, and all the (878 A.D.). Persons acquainted with inhabitants put to the sword.
that happen in China, report that there this occasion 120,000 Mussulmans, Jews, on perished Christians, and Magi, who were established in the town, and carried on trade there, without counting the The precise number natives killed at the same time.
the events
of persons of these four religions who lost their lives was known, because the Chinese governor was in the habit of levying a tax upon them according to their numbers.
The
rebels also
had the mulberry and other
trees
cut down, which were upon the territory of the town. name the mulberry trees in particular, because the
We
leaf of this tree feeds the insect that to the
makes the
silk,
up
moment when
the creature constructs its last
dwelling.
silk
This circumstance was the cause of no more
being sent from there to the Arab countries, and

foreigners flocked to the ports of the Celestial
other regions."
While
Empire, Chinese merchants visited in their junks all the seas of India, and went to traffic in Arabia and Egypt.
They visit even yet, for commercial purposes, the islands of the Eastern Archipelago, the ports of Cochin China and Japan, the peninsula of Malacca, and even Bengal. As to land trade, they have at different times occupied
themselves with
it
not be doubted that
in a very active manner ; and it can it is the interests of commerce that
have carried to Tartary the Chinese colonies established and also drawn thither the armies sent to the Western countries by the Chinese government. At present there is an active foreign trade carried on
there,
The Chialong all the northern and western frontier. nese get horses from Tartary, as well as the precious
green stone called jade
;
musk and shawls from Thibet

furs
125
thread from Silesia-and Russia.
from Siberia; soaps, leather, and gold and silver The neighboring towns of the Birmah country get their European goods this
;
and it was by the route of Little Bucharia, and the towns on the northwest of Kan-sou, that the first silks formerly arrived in Europe ; but the difficulties of
way
transport have
now for some time rendered the foreign commerce by land far less important than by sea. The port of Canton was for a long time the only one open to European commerce, which, up to the end of the 18th century, sent nothing to China but its money to exchange for tea. Since the commencement of the 19th,
has sent also cotton goods, woolen cloth, wrought metIndia furnishes her spices, camphor, als, watches, etc.
it
ivory, and especially enormous quantities of opium, the taste for which has been so rapidly propagated in China.
value
This vast continent yields to foreign commerce the of about 7,000,000 in exchange for above 9,000,000 of raw or manufactured products sent to
her from India and the west.
The more
or less consid-
erable consumption of the principal products of China, tea and raw silk, determines the importance of the ex-
changes that can be effected with the subjects of the China needs to sell, not to buy. Celestial Empire.
With
the exception of opium and Indian cotton, she accepts foreign goods only with the view of favoring her own export trade. According to these data, it would
be easy to foresee the commercial opportunities that France might obtain for herself on this new ground, by the side of the other powers of Europe. England imher into marts 54,000,000 ports pounds of tea; the United States, 17,000,000; Russia, above 8,000,000:
as to France, she only takes the tea required for her own consumption, and that is less than 600,000 pounds. Raw silk is only taken by England and the United
126
States England more than 2,000,000 pounds, repreaH the countries that senting a value of 1,400,000. Of in for their an seek China, British India goods opening
is
the only one that finds an easy market, and which can turn the balance of exchange in its own favor. China receives annually from Calcutta and Bombay to the amount
1,200,000 in raw cotton, and above 5^000,000 in opium. British manufactured goods, by being sold at a
of
very low price, have, notwithstanding the competition of Chinese industry, been introduced into the ports of Canton and Shang-hai to the amount of 1,320,000 in
440,000 in woolen cloths. cloths offered at Kiaktha and in Central American cottons' brought to Shang-hai and the Asia, the same conditions and submit to the same accept This burdensome commerce is maintained sacrifices. by means of the profits realized on the return cargoes, and it also excludes from the extreme East the produccottons,
and
The Russian
Thus in the best years the exchanges of France with China have not exceeded a value of
tions of France.
2,000,000 of francs.* In order to afford the means of estimating at a glance the relative importance of the commercial transactions of foreign nations with China, we will give an exact statement of the number of vessels belonging to each
which entered
its
ports during one year.

1850.
FOREIGN VESSELS WHICH ENTERED CHINESE PORTS IN

England United States Holland
Spain Various nations France
374 183 29
13 22 4
'..
* Revue des deux Mondes, 1st Sept., 1841, by

ble
M. Jurien de
la
Gra-
viere,
whose numerous and interesting works afford a proof that it is possito be at the same time a distinguished sailor and a highly gifted writer.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHIXESE EMPIRE.

Tliis
127
commerce
is
doubtless of considerable import-
ance to England and the United States, but its influence is very little felt in this vast Chinese Empire, and The trade with this immense population of traders.
might cease suddenly and completely, without causing any sensation in the interior provinces. The great Chinese merchants in the ports open to the
foreigners
Europeans would doubtless feel it; but it is probable would not experience the least inconvenience. The price of tea and silk would fall, and that of opium would rise, but only for a short time, for the Chinese would soon raise it in abundance. The course of business would suffer no embarrassment, since,
that the Chinese nation
as
M. Jurien de
sell
la
Graviere truly observes, "China has

to
it
need to
and not
buy."
Its rich
;
and
fertile
prov-
inces furnish all that
requires
it
has within
its
own
and Europe can only supply it with articles of luxury and fancy. The cotton goods brought to China, enormous as their amount appears, can be in reality but a feeble resource for the immense consumption of more than 300,000,000 of men.
limits all that is either necessary or useful,
If, then, the Chinese government has never, at any time, favored foreign commerce ; if it has even endeav-
ored to paralyze and crush it ; it was because it has always considered it as prejudicial to the true interests of the country. Commerce, according to the Chinese, can only be serviceable to the Empire insomuch as by
giving up superfluous articles,
it
acquires
what
is
neces-
This principle being admitted, they infer from it, that as the trade with foreigners diminishes the quantity of silk, tea, and porcelain, and conseuseful.
sary and
quently increases the price of these articles in

provinces,
it
all
the"
and
it
really disadvantageous to the Empire, is for this reason they have always endeavored
is
128
JOUItNKY TIIIiOlMMl THK CHINKS!'. KMIMliK.

it.
to fetter
trifles
The
brought by European
various objects of luxury, tlie precious ships, have never created

for the
any
illusion
on this subject
Government, and
it
has desired only the commerce with the Tartars and Russians, by which it obtains the furs and leather that
it
really requires,
and always
in the
way
of barter.
The Chinese have by no means
the
same ideas as the
Europeans on the subject of commerce. Kouan-tse, a celebrated economist of the Celestial Empire, who lived more than two thousand years ago, expresses himself " The thus money which enters a kingdom by commerce only enriches it in the same proportion as that There is no commerce permanently which goes out. advantageous but the exchange of things useful and
:
The trade in articles of pomp, elegance, or whether carried on by exchange or by -money payments, supposes the existence of luxury ; now luxury, which is the abundance of what is superfluous among certain citizens, supposes the want of necessaries among others. The more horses the rich put to their chariots, the more people will have to walk on foot ; the more their houses are vast and magnificent, the more those of the poor are small and miserable the more their tables are covered with dainties, the more people there are reduced to eat only rice. " The best that can be done for men in a social state by means of industry and labor is that all should have the necessaries and some the conveniences of life."
necessary.
curiosity,
;
As these arc the principles of the Chinese government, it is easy to see that European productions will never have a very extensive market in China at all events as long as the Chinese remain what they arc
;
without any considerable modification in their tastes and habits. As foreign commerce can not offer them
any
article of
primary necessity, nor even of any real

utility,
129
they will interest themselves very little in its extension, and they would see it stopped altogether, not only without uneasiness, but with a certain feeling
of satisfaction.
The
gland
;
case would certainly not be the same in Ena total interruption of the trade with China
would be for her a more disastrous event. The life and movement of that colossal power would be immediately paralyzed in India
evil
;
from the extremities the
would rapidly reach the heart, and before long there would be seen, even in the metropolis, symptoms of a Her possessions in India are the most mortal malady. fertile source of the wealth and power of Great Britain, and these possessions are nourished by China. The are aware of and that is this, perfectly English why they have in these latter years bravely taken the resolution to endure all the offenses of the Chinese government, rather than by coming to a new rupture with it
to arrest the great
commercial movement which
is
one
of the principal sources of the prosperity of India. One excellent reason Avhy the Chinese care little about
commerce is, that their internal trade is so exand employs vessels of all sizes, which are continually furrowing the rivers and canals by which the Empire is watered throughout its whole extent. This
foreign
tensive,
trade consists principally in the exchange of the grain, salt, metal, and other natural and artificial productions
of the various provinces. China is a country so vast, so rich, so varied, that its internal trade alone would suffice abundantly to occupy
that part of the nation w^liich can be devoted to mercantile operations. There are in all the great towns im-
portant commercial establishments, into which, as into reservoirs, the merchandise of all the provinces disTo these vast storehouses people flock charges itself.
130

all
from
parts of the Empire,
and there
is
a constant
cities of
bustle going on about them
a feverish activity that

often
would scarcely be seen in the most important

Europe.
The channels of communication, although
mervery inconvenient, are at all times thronged with on in carried is which carts, barrows, boats, chandise, and the backs of men and of beasts of burden.
The government
itself carries
in store in the granaries that are
on trade, by laying Tip found in many of the
chief towns, the excess of corn that it receives in tribute, and selling it to its subjects in times of scarcity.
part of the pawnbroking establishments, so numerous in The rate of inChina, also belong to the government.
terest is
two per cent, per month for articles of clothing, and three per cent, for jewels and articles of the metallic kind. The legal interest of money has been fixed at 30 cent, per annum, which makes three per cent, per per month, as the sixth, the twelfth, and the intercalary moon (when there is one) do not bear interest. One would like to know what object the Chinese government had in view, in fixing the interest of money at so enormous a rate, and to understand their mode of regarding questions of political and social economy.
According to Tchao-yng, a distinguished writer of the Celestial Empire, the purpose was to prevent the value of land from increasing, and that of money from diminIn fixing it at a ishing, by the mediocrity of interest. it has endeavored to render the distriburate, very high tion of land proportioned to the number of families, and
the circulation of
"
money more
active
and uniform.
inferior
It is evident,"
he says, " that money being
more casual in itself, and in the income derived from it, the same value in land will always be preferred to that which is in money. It is evident, also, that in order not to run the risks to which money is
to land, as being

liable,
131
people will like even to possess a smaller value
in land, with greater security. This smaller value is proportioned to the risks of money and its profits.
" The more the

is
interest of
money
is raised,
the more
land
as
required,
all risks
being compensated, to equal
it, you must have a greater number of acres of bad land to equal a smaller of that which is good and fertile. Now the more land is required to equal money the easier is it for the poor citizens to preserve what land they have, and even to acquire a certain quantity since and for the same it is not needful for that to be rich reason the divisions are easy in families, and advantageous to the state for the lands which the government has Because property in had especially in view. Why? land produces always more to those who cultivate it themselves, and that the rich, who possess more than
; ;
they can cultivate, lose for the state in neglecting their lands, or making them over to others, what those gain
own cultivators a certain and inevitable which must also be added the risks of the harvest and the casualties of payment a loss, consequentwho
are their
loss, to
;
ly,
which, being aggravated by these risks, renders the purchase of land less advantageous to them than to the poor, and must facilitate it to the latter in the same proportion that it disgusts the former." After having shown by examples that the landed
possessions of the people have always increased in proportion as the interest of money was high, Tchao-yng concludes thus: "The great advantage which the law of
interest at thirty per cent, has aimed at that the cultivators of land, who are the
and obtained is, most numerous,
the most useful, the most moral and laborious portion of the community, may possess property in land, and have enough to subsist upon without being rich, and not
be the unfortunate slaves of the moneyed interest, of those
132
citizens
who
fatten their useless idleness
on the
fruit of
the labor of these unfortunate men."
Tchao-yng endeavors afterward

rate
to
prove that the
of thirty per cent, being the mean between the revenue of good land and the profits of wholesale trade,
to stimulate commerce, precisely what was needed " Whoever lias and bring idle money into circulation. " will not leave them to lie fallow, good lands," he says, because, if he be not insane, he will not deprive himself in dead loss of the harvests with which every year
was
they
may
fill
his granaries.
Whoever has property

if is is
or
money would be
it
equally insane idle in his coffers ; since, if there
he allowed
it
to lie
more
also
risk in placing
than in cultivating land, there
more consider-
able
Every body agrees that a merchant never keeps money locked up in his chest, since the powerful attraction of gain continually draws
it
"
pro^t.
out.
The law
of
thirty per cent, being established, the
same
attraction
must produce the same

it.
effect
We see,
upon
therefore, that since
all those who have money has borne this
high interest, no one thinks of hoarding it, and the circulation of it has been more general, lively, and continual."
Another economist, named Tsien-tche, maintains that the legal interest of thirty per cent, is intended to facilitate commerce. It will be seen that the Chinese are
as advanced as
we
are in the art of
well-organized society," says Tsien-tche, "would be that in which every one laboring according to his powers, his talents, and the public necessities, all pro-
"A
making formulas.
perty would be divided in such proportions as should secure its enjoyment to every one at the same time. "The richest state would be that in which a small
amount of labor would furnish the productions of nature
JOURNEY THROUGH
TI1E
CHINESE EMPIRE.
133
and art in abundance superior to the numbers and the wants of the inhabitants. Wealth has necessarily
a relation to wants.
The empire was
richer with a
smaller amount of property under the first dynasties, because less labor produced more in proportion to the
is such at present that the pressing interest of common necessity requires us to draw all that can be drawn from the fertility of
number of the inhabitants." " The population of the Empire
In order to effect the land and the industry of man. in we must cultivate this, every place what best flour-
and work up all the materials we have. The superabundant produce of some localities may then become a help to others that are deficient, and it is for commerce to undertake their transport. " The necessity of commerce in the Empire is equal to the necessity of exchanges, and the utility of commerce to their utility that is to say, the necessity is absolute, and the utility universal and continual. " We must distinguish in commerce things and places. Its totality embraces the productions of nature and art
ishes in
it,
.
the necessary, the useful, the convenient, the agreeable, and the superfluous. the
is a commerce between family and family in same place, a commerce from village to village, from town to town, from province to province and it is easy, a continual, and universal, on account of proximity commerce, finally, of the capital with the provinces, and of the provinces among themselves, however distant
;
;
" There
they
may be
all
from one another."
the goods of the Empire belonged to the State, and that- the State would undertake the distribution of them, it must necessarily undertake these
"If
exchanges which are effected by commerce, by carrying the superabundance of one place to another; and in
184
it would have to assign a salary to those undertake this duty, as it does to magistrates should who and soldiers, etc. ; and this office, which has nothing in
that case,
it stands in direct it but what is noble and great, since relation with the public felicity, would become honorable. Merchants, however, undertake to render this im-
portant service to society at their own risk and peril. The proportion and the correspondence of the exchanges
of productions is neither uniform, constant, nor convenient enough to provide for the varied and continual wants of society ; but money, as the sign and equivalent
much
of a fixed and recognized value, supplies this want so the more easily, as it lends itself with facility and
promptitude to all the proportions, divisions, and correspondences of exchange. Money is the spring and the leaven of commerce, and commerce can only be nourishing inasmuch as the circulation of
creases,
accelerates,
money
facilitates, in-
and perpetuates the multitude of
exchanges.
"The
ancient equilibrium and proportional distribu-
tion of property having been destroyed, it is evident that there are a great number of citizens whose expenses
are less than their receipts, and who, consequently, can put by money, or at least are in no hurry to make
use of it. It is not less evident to the government, watchful that the totality of money circulating in the Empire should be proportioned to the value and quantity of the
innumerable exchanges of commerce, that

circulation
the
money withdrawn from

facility,
by
these reserves
the uniformity, and the continuity of these exchanges in proportion to its quantity. Every thing, therefore, which tends to restore it
to circulation, and to keep it there, is for the benefit of commerce. " The law does what it can, by forcing those to whom
diminishes the
JOURNEY THKOUGH THE CHINESE EMPIKE.
Us
the State gives most, to be at the greatest expense; custom and propriety do so still more, "but that is not The high interest of money, however, supsufficient.
by securing the profits which tempt are any that resist so powerful an If there cupidity. it is a new attraction, proof that a smaller interest would
plies
this want,
have
money always pressof its immensity and its and on account universal, ing infinite divisions and ramifications, the smallest sums find a place in it, and are enticed by the temptation of a temptation so much the more powerful to the profit laborer and the artisan, that the smallest loss affects his well-being, and that if he intrusts his money to commerce, he may withdraw it when he will. " Merchants and traders, if they had sufficient funds to do without the help of loans, which 4e impossible on account of the inequality of fortunes, and of the proportion of the
still less drawn it out, and would have deprived commerce of just so much advantage. " As the need of in commerce is
money
in circulation with the value of
could merchants exchanges throughout the Empire and traders, I say, do without the continual assistance of loans, it would be in the interest of commerce that they should make them, and that they should be ren-
dered lucrative in order to interest the public in

success.
its
"If the
transports
facility,
by
the convenience, and the safety of land and water are carefully watched
over
every thing relating to commerce in sales, purchases, and the dispatch of goods, is effected with so
;
if
much
if the privileges of fairs celerity and good faith and markets are so scrupulously preserved if the police kept there is so attentive and so mild if the malversations and tyrannies of custom-house officers are
;
punished with so much energy,
it
is
because almost
136

is in-
every one has property engaged in commerce, or

terested for those
Government must demand the assistance which is its due, and which it is so imand the portant to all the citizens to procure for it; method of effectinfallible an is interest of money high a was cent, of this. This law grand coup per thirty ing
who
have.
"
The economist Tsien-tche

versaries of the
afterward refutes the ad-
law of thirty per cent., one of whom, " The ancients tolerated only a Iow4 Leang-tsien, says, rate of interest that of thirty per cent, is an injustice and a public oppression. It is impossible to imagine more flagrant usury." "We might content ourselves with replying, first, that the fact alleged is at least doubtful, since we can not open the ancient authors, or even
;
the sacred books, without perceiving that the profits of trade were prodigious under the beautiful and celebrated
either that
dynasty of the^Tcheoii ; and it is not natural to suppose merchants always traded with their own
funds, or that those who lent to them did not desire to share the profits made with their own money ; all that
one can say is, that a high rate of interest was not authorized by law but as we do not find that it was
;
prohibited,
it
would be necessary
lost of those
what we have
to inquire whether laws contained the condem-
A father
nation or the apology of high interest. " Secondly, we may reply that the proportions have all been changed with the increase of the population.
may
when he has twelve

had only three or
be obliged to govern his family differently children to what he did when he
four. Thirdly, that it is terrible to accuse of injustice and usurious oppression a law that zeal for the public good alone has dictated which has been received Avith thanks throughout the Empire, which
is
equally for the profit of
all,
and, as
it
only permits,

not enjoins, this rate,
is
is
137
no restraint on any one which and which replies to all the state of the Empire and of present objections by commerce." "A shop on the great street that runs toward the
now
several centuries old,
.first
*as
much
entrance of the Imperial Palace lets for four times as it would let for if it were in a more ordinary
quarter.
and less-frequented
What
is
the reason of this
augmentation of rent ? Why should this disproportion e*xist between two houses whose real value is the same, since they have cost the same sum to build ? It is because, although it only depends on myself, if I am the owner, to profit by its advantageous commercial position, I yield my right to the merchant on condition that he shall make me amends, by increasing the rent in proportion to the profit
it
will procure for him,
have given up to him.
The
case is the
and which I same with the

accidents,
;
money lent to merchants. " Commerce has its revolutions,

faults, its losses, its failures in
its
its
good
faith
of which the
general result reduces the
sum
total of the property
em-
barked in it to an interest that does not exceed by more than four or five per cent, the ordinary return from good
land.
Is that too
it
much
advantage, to secure for
it
the
loans
their
requires, in it for the risks they run ? The public at large always gains in the loans made to commerce, but there are many individuals who lose their interest,
and compensate those who embark
money
The flux and reflux of the loss and gain must necessarily be taken into the account in the rate of interest of money, and so much the more that, whether by reason of the population, or of the constitution of the government, and of the public administration, the greater part of the funds engaged in commerce must be borrowed."
or even their capital.
196
" The State has laid no other tax on commerce than the merchant and the trader, howthat of the customs ever rich they may be, whatever expense the State may go to to secure the facility and convenience of their
;
trade, give nothing in return, although
they gather its This policy is wise and equitable, for as the merchant and trader derive their revenues from the
best fruits.
public by the profits of their trade, they would make the consumers pay any tax that might be demanded of
them
made them
the State would therefore, in that case, only have receivers of taxes. If, however, the necessi-
ties of the State should require the imposition of a tax on commodities the consumption of which is common to all classes, and in proportion to the fortunes of individuals, it is evident that it should be a tax of which the distribution should be most equitable, and least burdensome to the poor. Every one would admit this. Our literary men who have cried out against the interest of thirty per cent, understand nothing of political adminLet us change the names, and this will be istrations. demonstrated. To what does the excess of interest obtained at present over the whole Empire amount beyond what was obtained under the dynasty of Tang, nine centuries ago ? Let us,take it at ten millions of ounces of silver. Who would object, if the State should demand such a sum as this, over and above the ordinary im-
posts, for the purpose of providing for the interests of commerce in the interior of the Empire ? Well, the de-
cree authorizing a rate of thirty per cent, interest for money, has created such a tax, and the State yields it to those who lend their money to their fellow-citizens
commerce. It is on the profits of and not on the trade, public at large, that this tax is levied, and in the most advantageous manner, since every one pays it in proportion to his consumption.
for the purposes of

All that there
139
is peculiar in this impost is, that the State yields it to the public, without making it pass through the treasury- of the Empire, and without being obliged to increase it by the expenses of collection.
"
How
is it
that the high rate of interest fixed
by the
law affords advantage to commerce ? Because it opens a career to those who have the talent for it, and favors its division among a The genius for greater number. commerce is a peculiar one, like that for letters, for government, for the arts ; possibly even one might say that, in some respects, it embraces them all. Now this genius for commerce is lost to the Empire in all those who follow a different career; it remains therefore to develop it in those who have no other resource. Although commerce is indisputably necessary to the State, yet the administration, which goes to so much expense to facilitate study, and to form by that means men capable of political business, does nothing for those who have a genius for commerce to assist them in its development. Now
the high interest of money makes amends for this kind However poor a young man may be, if he of neglect. well conducted and clever, he will be able to borrow enough to make an attempt and as soon as this succeeds, all purses will be open to him, and this interest law will have given to the Empire a useful citizen, who would have been lost if a helping hand had not been
is
;
held out to him.
Now, when men can
enter into busi-
ness without having any money of their own, commerce must necessarily be divided among a great number, and
that
is
what the present
state of the population renders
desirable.
"
man, whatever he
may
be, has
but
a- certain
amount of time and strength to employ. If his business demands more, he must call in help, that is to say, he must buy the services of others they cost him little,
;
140
E.MI'IIc.:.
for the most part, and he endeavors to obtain the utmost advantage from them. What lie gains by these assistants, by degrees releases him from the necessity of working himself, and the public is charged with the burden of his idleness. It was asked of So-ling why he had lent twenty thousand ounces of silver from the
'It was,' he public treasury to twelve small traders. ' not that the in order any more public might replied, have to pay for the lacquered work, the shows, the festivals,
concubines, and slaves of
him who has monopo;
lized the silk factories.
Rivalry in trade obliges traders
to emulate each other in labor
and industry
that
"
is
to
say, to be less extortionate toward the public.' It would be, we presume, superfluous to warn the
reader, that in quoting these passages, perhaps at rather too great length, we by no means intended to express
our assent to
mists.
all
the doctrines of the Chinese econo-
Many of these perplexed questions are too far above our knowledge on such subjects for us to pretend
to offer
We wished merely any opinion on them. show the mode of thinking of the Chinese writers.
so
to
It
is
common
for people in
Europe
to form their opin-
fans,
ions of the Chinese from the drawings on screens and and to regard them merely as more or less civil-
ized baboons, that we were glad to have an opportunity of showing how they treat questions of policy and social
economy. In order to facilitate commercial operations, the Chinese have invented pecuniary societies, which are found over the whole Empire, the object of which is to avoid the burden of fixed debts, bearing interest. The members
of-
certain
sum
these societies agree among themselves upon a to be contributed by each on the first of
;
every month on this ^same day lots are drawn for the whole sum, and so on every month till every one has

had
fair
141
his turn.
As
this would, however,
be rather un-
toward the
last comers, the
sum
month by a small interest paid by The advantage of these societies consists

considerable
vals.
increased every the first winners.

is
As
in obtaining a once for small ones paid at interthe government does not interfere with them
sum
at
in
any way whatever, their rules vary at the pleasure but there are two conditions that apof the members
;
pear to be invariable society has the first

fails to
namely, that the founder of the lot, and that a member who once
all;
pay
his contribution forfeits his advances to the

is
chief,
who
answerable for
but this
is
a case of
All the members make it a great very rare occurrence. faithful to be to these engagements, and of honor point
a failure in them is sure to cover a man with the conIf any one finds himself tempt of his fellow-citizens. pressed for money, he easily obtains the advantage of having the next lot given to him ; and if he can not go on any longer, he yields his advances to another, who These societies are so becomes answerable for him. much the fashion, that almost all the Chinese belong to one or other farmers, artisans, small tradesmen, are thus all collected in groups, and hold their resources in common. A Chinese never lives in isolation, but it is especially in matters of interest and commerce that his
;
associative spirit is remarkable. The immense population of China, the richness of its
soil,
territory,
the variety of its products, the vast extent of its and the facility of communication by land and
water, the activity of its inhabitants, its laws and public usages, all unite to render this nation the most commercial in the
world.
whichever side a stranger enters China, whatever point may first meet his eye, he is sure to be struck, above all else, by the prodigious bustle and movement
On
142
of the thirst going on every where under the stimulus of gain, and the desire of traffic by which this people is from east incessantly tormented. From north to south,
whole country is like a perpetual fair, and a fair that lasts the whole year without any interruption. And yet, when one has not penetrated to the centre of the Empire, when one has not seen the great towns, Han-yang, Ou-tchang-fou, and Han-keou, facing one another, it is impossible to form an adequate idea of the
to west, the
amount of the internal trade. Han-keou especially, " The Mouth of Commercial Marts," must be visited, for it is one great shop; and
every production has its street or quarter particularly devoted to it. In all parts of the city you meet with a concourse of passengers, often pressed so compactly together, that
you have the
greatest difficulty to
make
your way through them. Long lines of porters stretch through every street ; and, as they proceed with a peculiar gymnastic step, they utter a measured monotonous
cry,
whose sharp sound
of the multitude.
is heard above all the clamors In the midst of this crowded vortex
of men, there prevails, nevertheless, a very fair amount of order and tranquillity ; there are few quarrels, much
less fights, although the police is far
merous as in most of our
cities in
Europe.
from being as nuThe Chinese

they
are always restrained by a salutary fear of compromising themselves that acts like an instinct ; and though
are easily excited,
and induced to vociferate, they are soon quiet again, and things return to their usual course.
In seeing the streets thus constantly thronged with people, you might be apt to think that all the inhabitants of the town must be out, and the houses empty. But just cast a glance into the shops, and you will see they are crowded with buyers and sellers. The factories
also contain a considerable
number of workmen and

artisans
;
143
and
children,
lation
We do not know whether the inhabitants of the boats are included in this calculation, but the great port of Han-keou is literally a forest of masts, and it is quite astonishing to see vessels of such a size, in such numbers, in the very middle of
together, estimated at eight millions.
if to these you add the old men, women, you will not be surprised to hear the popuof Han-keou, Han-yang, and Ou-tchang-fou, taken
and
China.
have said that Han-keou is in some measure the general mart for the eighteen provinces, since it is there the goods arrive, and thence depart, which are intended to supply all the internal trade. Perhaps the world could not show a town more favorably situated, and
possessing
We
a greater number of natural advantages.
Placed in the very centre of the Empire, it is in some measure surrounded by the Blue River, and brought into direct communication with the provinces of the east and the west. This same river, on leaving Han-keou,
describes two curves, to the right
and
left,
and bears
the great trading junks toward the south as far as the bosom of the lakes Pou-yang and Thoung-ting, which
An immense number of rivers, two lakes, receive in small boats the merchandise brought from Han-keou, and distribute
are like
two inland
seas.
which
it
fall
into these
Toward the through all the provinces of the south. north the natural communications are less easy, but
gigantic and' ingenious labors have come to the aid of nature, in the numerous artificial canals with which the
is intersected, and which, by marvelous and skillful contrivances, establish a communication between all the lakes and navigable rivers of the Empire,
north of China
so that
you might traverse
its entire
extent without ever
getting out of your boat. The Annals of China
show that
at every period each
Ill
JOUUNKY TIIUOUUH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
successive dynasty lias paid great attention to the canal system ; but no other work is comparable to that which
was executed by the Emperor Yang-ti, of the dynasty of Tsin, who ascended the throne in the year 605 of the Christian era.
In the first year of his reign he dug many new canals, and enlarged the old ones, so that vessels could pass from the Hoang-Ho to the Yang-tse-kiang, and from
these great rivers to the principal smaller ones. learned man, named Siao-hoai, presented to him a plan for rendering all the rivers navigable throughout their
and making them communicate, one with new invention. His project was by and there were consequently and executed, adopted made, remade, and repaired, more than four thousand This great enterprise eight hundred miles of canals. of course required a vast amount of labor, which was divided between the soldiers and the people. Every family was required to furnish one man, between the ages of fifteen and fifty, to whom the Government gave The soldiers, who had to do the nothing but his food. most painful part of the work, received a small increase of pay. Some of these canals were lined with freestone throughout their entire length, and during our various journeys we saw remains enough to attest the beauty That which ran from the northern to the of the works. southern court* was forty feet wide, arid had on its banks plantations of elm and willow. That from the
entire course,
another,
canals of a
eastern to the western court, was less magnificent, but also bordered with a double line of trees. Chinese historians have branded the memory of the
Emperor Yang-ti, because during his reign he never ceased to oppress the people by these corvees, to satisfy his own caprice and his taste for luxury, but they ac* There were at this time four imperial courts.
145
knowledge that he deserved well of the Empire for the by his canals on the internal trade. The wealth of China, its system of canals, and the other causes already assigned, have doiibtless contributed much to develop in the country the prodigious commercial activity that has been remarked in it at all but it must be acknowledged also that the epochs character and genius of its inhabitants has always disbenefits conferred
;
The Chinese has a passionate posed them to traffic. love of lucre ; he is fond of all kinds of speculation and
stock-jobbing, and his mind, full of finesse and cunning, takes delight in combining and calculating the chances
of a commercial operation. The Chinese, par excellence, is a man installed behind the counter of a shop, waiting for his customers with patience and resignation, and in the intervals of their arrival pondering in his head, and casting up on his little arithmetical machine, the means of increasing his
fortune.
Whatever may be the nature and importance

;
of his business, he neglects not the smallest profit

least gain is
the
eagerly ; greatest of all is his enjoyment, when in the evening, having well closed and barricaded his shop, he can retire into
always welcome, and he accepts
it
the
some number of
corner,
his sapecks,
and there count up religiously and reckon the earnings of
The Chinese is born with this taste for traffic, which grows with his growth, and strengthens with
the day.
his strength.
sapeck
the
first
enough to hold the with that he amuses himself, pencil, making figures and as soon as the tiny creature can speak and walk, he is capable of buying and In China you need selling. never fear sending a child to make a purchase; you
it is
intelligence is when his little fingers are strong
thing a child longs for is a it makes of its speech and to learn to articulate the names of coins ;
first
The
use that
'
VOL.
II.
146

rely on
it,
he will not allow himself to be cheated. which the little Chinese are addicted are ahvays impregnated with this mercantile spirit ; they amuse themselves with keeping shop, and opening little pawnbroking establishments, and familiarize themselves thus with the jargon, the tricks, and the frauds
may
Even the plays
to
of tradesmen.
Their knowledge in
all
that relates to
and precocious, that you need not hesitate to confide to them the most important affairs, and to give them serious business of this kind to manage at an age when children are mostly occupied with their
commerce
is
so clear
Empire enjoy the not unmerited reputation of being very artful and knowa great ing, and such a character will of course play
playthings. The inhabitants of the Celestial
Volumes might be written part in mercantile affairs. on the frauds, more or less ingenious and audacious,
is
and the habit of trickery ; so general, the fashion so universal, that no one is offended at it ; it is simply a mode of showing that
of the Chinese merchants
are clever
you
.
and wide awake.

tell
A tradesman
is often
the great commercial houses are, on the contrary, most remarkable for the uprightness and integrity of their dealings, and their scrupulous
;
quite It is piece of knavery. that this want of probity among the petty traders
proud when he can
a story of some successful only just to observe, however,
and good
faith is chiefly
found
European merchants who engagements. have had commercial transactions with China are unanifidelity to their
mous
duct,
in extolling the irreproachable probity of their conand it is painful to add that we fear they could not
<
always return the compliment.
legfl coinage existing in China is a little round piece made of a mixture of copper and pewter, and called by the Cliinese tsien, and by the Europeans
The only
147
They are pierced through the middle with a sapecks. in order that they may easily be passed on hole square
string of a thousand of these pieces is equivalent usually to a Chinese ounce of silver: gold and 'silver are never coined in China ; when employed
a thread.
for larger
purchases than can be paid for in sapecks,
they are weighed like any other commodity; sapecks are used for all small transactions, and agreements are
also
made in strings of sapecks. The Chinese in the towns generally

scales for
little
buying and
selling,
and weigh
carry with them all the
money they give or receive. Bank notes, payable to the bearer, are in use throughout the whole Empire ; they are issued by the great houses of business, and accepted in all the principal towns. The value of a sapeck is about half a French centime ; and this small coinage is an incalculable advant-
age to small dealings.

traffic in
Thanks
to the sapeck, one
may
slice
China on very small means. One may buy a of pear, a dozen of fried beans, a few melon-seeds,
or one walnut, or one
may
also drink a cup of tea, or

;
smoke some pipes for a sapeck and a citizen who is not rich enough to afford himself a whole orange will
This extreme division of Chinese often purchase a half. has to an infinity of small occupabirth coinage given
tions that afford a subsistence to thousands of persons.
With a
glish),
capital of two hundred sapecks (ten pence Ena Chinese will not hesitate to commence some
mercantile speculation. The sapeck is especially an immense resource for those who lire asking alms, for a
man must be
a sapeck.
poor indeed not to be able to give a beggar
CHAPTER
Attempt
to see the
V.
Governor of the Province
We force the Guard of his
The Governor of Hou-pe Conversation with this exalted Personage Good Result of the Visit Moving Courtesy of a Cook Adieus of Master Ting, and the Sse-tchouen Escort The Man" darin Lieou, or the Weeping Willow," Chief of the new Escort
Palace
Fine Arts Religion Towers Chinese Architecture Pagodas Doctrine of the Literary Class Great Honors rendered to Confucius Doctors of Reason Life and Opinions of the Philosopher Lao-tze Buddhism Legen^ of Buddha Dogmas and Moral Precepts Buddhists persecuted by the Brahmins Causes of these Persecutions Dispersion of the Buddhists through the various Countries of Asia.
WE
ter,
said at the
commencement of the preceding chap-
that on our arrival at Ou-tchang-fou, we were confined in a narrow cell of a pagoda, where we ran considerable
risk of being suffocated. high functionaries of the place
We had hoped
'
that
when
the
this
had themselves seen
murderous
hole,
not live without
they would understand that we could air, and would perhaps themselves
have procured us another lodging till the day of our These hopes, however, did not seem very departure. The magistrates of the capital likely to be realized. took not the slightest notice of us and, with the exception of some petty officials, no creature came to visit
;
us.
This treatment was certainly rather wounding to our vanity, but we might perhaps have been able to support the trial, would they only have afforded us space to move in and air to breathe. To be forsaken by our beloved and amiable Mandarins was distressing, but it could be borne; but to be dropt into a hole and forFor two days gotten, that we could not put up with.
149
we remained in this ignominious position, and then we make a vigorous effort to get out of it, and endeavor to resume the influence we had lost by our own fault. After having put on our dress of ceremony, we sent for some palanquin bearers, and commanded them to conduct us to the Governor of the Province. They looked at us in a hesitating manner, but we paid
resolved to
them
off
advance, promising them at the same time something handsome on our return, and then they set
in
with enthusiasm.
crossed the square, where the venerable Perboyre had been strangled, and arrived at the tribunal where he had been so cruelly tortured, and where sentence of death had been pronounced against him.
alighted from our palanquins at the entrance of the palace, and so far our enterprise had not been very crossed the threshold, determined to bear difficult.
We
We
We
down
obstacles that should intervene to prevent our had scarcely reached approach to the Governor. the middle of the court-yard before we were surrounded
all
We
by a crowd
of satellites and attendants, such as usually throng the avenues to the great tribunals, but their sinister hang-dog physiognomies, with which we had been marched long familiarized, did not alarm us much.
We
on boldly, affecting not to hear the thousand remarks that were made around us, on the subject of our yellow caps and red girdles. At the moment when we were about to cross a hall to enter a second court, we were accosted by a little Mandarin with a gilt ball, who seemed to be acting as a sort
He appeared quite aghast of usher to introduce guests. at our abrupt entrance, and placing himself in our way, he asked three times running where we were going, extending at the same time his two arms in a horizontal position, as if^to bar our passage.
160

are going to his Excellency the Governor,"
"We
replied.
we
"His Excellency
the Governor is not there.
You
can't see the Governor.
push in in that way ince ?" and as he spoke he stamped about and gesticulated, and with his arms extended followed every one of our movements, jumping alternately to the right and the We walked on, neverleft to prevent us from passing. theless, without saying a word, and thus forced our inAs we reached the end of troducer to walk backward. the hall he turned suddenly, and threw himself upon the two leaves of the folding door, as if to shut them but seizing him by. the arm, we cried out in the most impe" Woe to if do not rious tone we could
;
the Rites permit people to to the first magistrate of the prov-
Do
muster, you you If you stop us for a single leave that door open. ment, you are a lost man."
mo-
These words inspired a salutary

door again, and
little
fear
he opened the
We
new
entered the second court, leaving the man gazing after us in open-mouthed astonishment. reached the Governor's apartments without any
we
In the ante-chamber were four superior Mandarins, who, when we entered, seemed to doubt whether we were not ghosts. They gazed at us and at one another without speaking a word, and as if consulting each other as to what was to be done in these unexAt length one of them ventured pected circumstances. to ask who we were. " We are Frenchmen," we replied ; " we have been at Pekin, thence from Pekin to Lha-ssa, in Thibet ; and we wish to speak with his Excellency the Governor." " But is his Excellency the Governor informed of arrival at Has your visit been your Ou-tchang-fou ? announced to him ?" "4- dispatch from the Emperor ought to have informed
obstacle.

"
151
him of our coming to Hou-pe. We remarked that the words " dispatch from the Emperor' had an effect on the Mandarins. The speaker, after fixing upon us for a
moment an
door.
We
;
inquisitive look, disappeared through a little suspected that he had gone to the Governor
" the manner, just as if he had not been telling a lie Governor is absent. When he returns he will send for Now go back you, if he has any thing to say to you.
;
to announce to him the curious discovery he had just made and he was not long before he returned. " The Governor is absent," said he, in a perfectly easy
to your lodgings."
"
Who
is it
who
desires
us to go away
Who
told
you you
to say the Governor would send for us ? do seek to deceive us by pronouncing words contrary
Why
The Governor is here ; you have just spoken with him, and we will not go away till we have seen him." As we said this, we quietly seated ourselves on a broad divan that occupied a great part of the room. The Mandarins astonished at our doings made their exit all together, and left us alone. At Han-yang, as we have said, we had betrayed much
to the truth ?
weakness, and it was now necessary to repair this fault, if we wished to reach Canton in safety, instead of perishing in misery on the road. The benevolence of the Viceroy of Sse-tchouen could not avail us farther than Outchang-fou the Governor of Hou-pe" would now have the disposal of us as far as the capital of Kiang-si, and it was absolutely necessary that we should speak with
;
him, in order not to be abandoned entirely to the vowere left alone for racity of the petty Mandarins.
We
a long time, so that we had full leisure to arrange the plan we intended to follow. At length an aged attendant appeared, who after
having in a manner applied his face to ours, in order to
152
take a good observation of them, said in a tremulous " His voice, that Excellency the Governor invited our
illustrious persons to
formula,
our
into
come to him." From this polite we thought it might not be difficult to recover position, and we immediately followed the attendant
a magnificent saloon, where, amidst a crowd of Chinese articles of luxury, we noticed a French clock and two beautiful vases of Sevres China, as well as some The rich apparently English pictures on the walls.
Chinese are very fond of decorating their apartments with articles of European manufacture ; not that they have any great value in their eyes as works of art, but
they come from a great distance from beyond the Western Seas, and that is enough. In that matter, Chinese and Europeans are pretty does not like to have in his drawingmuch alike.
Who
room some ugly figure of bronze or porcelain which he can show has really come from Clilna ? We were engaged in admiring the Sevres vases, and
noticing with feelings of gratified vanity how greatly superior they were to the porcelain from the Chinese
factories,
when
the Governor entered.
He
crossed the
saloon swinging his arms, and looking neither to the right nor the left, and then went and sat down near a
flower-stand in a large lacquered arm-chair, the back of which waS covered with red cloth embroidered witli silk.
We
saluted him, respectfully, and then waited till he This personage did not appear slipuld address us. to possess the kindness and simplicity of the Vice-
He was about fifty years of age, roy of Sse-tchouen. and his thin dark face had a severe and hard expression.
" Your illustrious country," said he, "is the kingdom of France ; is it long since you left it ?"
" Yes
several years."
153
fne, since
have doubtless some affair to communicate to you have come to see me." " First, we wished to fulfill a duty of politeness." " Ah I am ashamed "
!
"You
desired to know whether the Viceroy of Sse-tchouen had forwarded a dispatch to announce our
arrival at Ou-tchang-fou."
"Then we
"
Certainly,
it
arrived a long time ago
the couriers
who carry dispatches travel rapidly." "Oh! From the manner in which we have been treated here, we thought the dispatch had not yet arrived. The Emperor gave orders to the Viceroy Pao-hing to
have us conducted to Canton with all possible respect ; and during our residence at Tching-tou-fou we had reason to speak in high praise of the treatment we received The illustrious and venerable from the authorities. had several interviews, paid whom we with Pao-hing, us the greatest attention ; and all along the road both
Mandarins have respected the orders he gave concerning us, and we have traveled in the most convenient and honorable manner." "That is the custom of our country," said the Govgreat
little
and
ernor,
haughtily;
"strangers are well treated
among
us."
"It appears, however," we replied, "that this custom is not general; perhaps it depends on the governors of the provinces. The Book of Rites is the same for the whole Empire, but it would seem to be interpreted in a different manner in Hou-pe to what it is in Sse-
At Han-yang, on the other side of the river, we should have died of hunger if we had not had money
tchouen.
with us to go and buy food for ourselves at an inn. Here in the capital itself, during the two days we have been here, no one has taken the slightest notice of us,
and we have been shut up
in
cell
where we had
154
Did the Emperor, perhardly room to turn round. be made to expiate should haps, give orders that we
at Ilou-pe the
good treatment we had received at Sse-
tchouen ?"
"What
the
words are you speaking? Emperor extends over all places.
The mercy of Where are you
lodged ?" " The
Viceroy of Sse-tchouen never asked us where

;
we were lodged he knew, because it was he himself When we arrived in who assigned us our lodging. this city we were conducted into a narrow chamber, into which scarcely any air can penetrate, and we have
been there two days without seeing any one to whom we could complain. It is probably desired that our journey should end at Ou-tchang-fou." The Governor fairly shook in his chair with anger; he declared we were calumniating the character of his
nation
;
and he began
mation,
his sharp voice became more and more piercing, to talk with so much volubility and ani-
longer understand took good care, however, not to interrupt him, but stood before him calm and motionless, waiting till he should become more pacified and hold his tongue. When the time came, we said to
that at last
we
could no
what he was saying.
We
him, in a very low tone, but with a certain cold and concentrated energy, "Your Excellency, we are not in
the habit of pronouncing rude and injurious words ; it is not right to assume bad intentions in our brethren ;
nevertheless, we are missionaries of the Lord of Heaven ; we are Frenchmen, and we can not forget that this town
is called
Ou-tchang-fou."
is
the meaning of these words? I do not them." comprehend " can not forget that one of our brothers, a misa Frenchman, was strangled here at Ou-tchangsionary,
"What
We

fou,
155
twenty-three years ago ; and that another of our brothers, also a missionary and a Frenchman, was put to death here, not quite six years ago."-
On
tenance,
hearing these words the Governor changed counand it was evident he was greatly agitated.
" This very day," we continued, "in coming here, we crossed the square upon which our brothers were executed. Can it then be surprising if we feel some uneasiness, if we fear that some attempt may be made upon our lives, especially when we have been lodged
almost in a sepulchre?" " I don't know what
affairs, replied the Governor, hastily; "at the periods of which you speak I was not in the prov-
about these
"
you mean
know nothing
ince."
"We
are aware of that
the Governor
who was
here
six years ago, as soon as he had given the order to have the French missionary strangled, was degraded by the
Emperor, and condemned to perpetual exile. It was evident to the whole Empire that Heaven had avenged No one, however, need answer for the innocent blood. more than his own actions. But whose fault is it that we are now being treated in the manner we have deWe have studied the writings of the phiscribed? losopher Meng-tse, and we have read in them this ' Meng-tse one day asked the king of Leang whether he thought there was any difference between killing a man with a sword and killing him with ill-treatment, and the king of Leang replied, I do not think there is any differ:
ence."
The Governor appeared very much
astonished "to hear
us quote a passage from the classical books. He endeavored to throw a little more gentleness into his phys-
iognomy and manners, and he thought proper assure us concerning the fears we had expressed
to
re-
for our
156
JOUKXKV THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIKE.
He said that the Mandarins had exepersonal safety. a severe inhis orders cuted badly, that he would have the and that into matter, every body's sins should quiry
be punished, since he was determined to have respect filled paid to the will of the Emperor, whose heart was with quite paternal kindness for strangers, as we had ourselves experienced in the treatment we had received
and all along the road. He added that equally well treated at Hou-pe, that we must not believe those stories of two of our countrymen
at Sse-tchouen,
we should be
Those were having been put to death in past times. low idle and false invented by people, merely reports whose tongues were always active, and given to lying. did not think it necessary to insist upon the and point, prove to him that the martyrdom of ]\DI. Clet and Perboyre was something very different from an idle rumor; we contented ourselves with observing
We
foreign countries ; that our government might appear sometimes not to notice it, but that it would not fail to remember it in due time.
it was always known Frenchmen were treated in
that
in France in
what manner
Altogether
we flattered ourselves that we had produced some impression on the Governor, and that our visit would have a good result. Before leaving the apartment, therefore, we endeavored to relax a little of the constraint of the situation by giving his Excellency some information about our long journey and Europe, which
At length we performed the salutations required by the Rites, and took our depature.
to
hall, and descending the numerous of the tribunal, we could easily see that the sucsteps cess of our visit was already known. were courte-
was
him almost an unknown world.
In crossing the
We
ously saluted by all whom we met, and when we reached the first court, the introducer of guests, who had dis-

played so
to
157
much
zeal in barring our passage, hastened
and conduct us to our palanquins, with every appearance of the most cordial and profound devotion. Our bearers, whom we found waiting for us at the door with the palanquin, then took us on their shoulders, and bore us at a rapid pace back to our abode. We had only been a few hours in this abominable cell when the tam-tam was heard sounding at the door of the little pagoda, and a Mandarin, accompanied by a numerous suite of attendants, presented himself, demanding to speak with the illustrious natives of the kingdom As soon as he saw us he hastened to anof France. nounce that he was charged by his Excellency the Governor to conduct us to a more suitable and more convenient lodging, one that should be more conformable to meet
us,
the laws of hospitality.

shall we go ?" we asked. " Whenever probably every thing is you please ready, for the orders were given as soon as you quitted
;
" When
the Governor's palace."
" it is " Let us late, go immediately then," said we and we should be glad to rise again out of this tomb." " cried Master who was not that's
;
Yes,
it,"
Ting,
more
this wretched littlehe was to where keep himself huddled obliged dwelling, up while he smoked his opium, because there was not let us room for him to stretch himself out " that's
satisfied
;
than
we were with
it,
rise
then packed up our again out of this tomb." goods with all possible haste, and gladly turned our backs on the detestable den.
We
were conducted to the other extremity of the town, almost into the country, and were there installed in a
We
handsome establishment, half civil and half It was a rich Buddhist convent, surrounded religious. numerous by apartments destined to receive Mandarins
vast and
158
There of distinction on their arrival at Ou-tcliang-fou. were gardens, courts planted with lofty forest trees, belvederes, and terraces on peristyles, which gave an air of pomp and grandeur to the place that contrasted strikwe had just left ; but ingly with the mean little pagoda what we prized above all else was the sweet fresh air of the country that we drew in in long breaths. As soon as we were settled in our dwelling, the Mandarin who had brought us here sent for the cook of the establishment, and he arrived quickly with a pencil between his teeth, a sheet of paper in one hand, and an inkstand in the other, and, placing himself at the end of the table, rubbed a little ink upon a slab, and begged us to mention the names of the dishes we
preferred.
"It
darin,
is
a fact
known
to all the world," said the
Man-
"that the Western nations do not feed in the same manner as The inhabitants of the Central Kingdom, and as far as possible we must comply with peo"We thanked the Mandarin ple's usages and customs." for his polite attention, but said we had now for a long time been in the habit of living quite in the Chinese manner. The " Superintendant of the Caldron" need
only follow the inspirations of his own talents, and all list of dishes would be quite suwell. should have found it, indeed, very hard perfluous.
would be
to to
We
; for, during all these years we had had accustom ourselves to so many kinds of cookery, and had eaten of so many odd things, that we were now hardly capable of appreciating culinary skill, and our ideas on the subject of dishes had become extremely
make one
vague and confused.
taste of barley flour, flavored with suet, to us.
Every thing that had not the was acceptable
The head cook
gathered up his writing materials, and
159
took his departure, quite proud and elated at the mark of confidence we had shown him, and of which, we may The skill add, he proved himself thoroughly worthy.
with which he compounded for us a number of Chinese ragouts, each better than the last, was sucli as to show that we could not have done better than confide entirely
in his genius
and
discretion.
The day
after our
moving
into this
new
habitation,
Master Ting, accompanied by his colleague, the military Mandarin, and the numerous soldiers and attendants who had escorted us since our departure from the capital of Sse-tchouen, came in a body, and with a certain air of solemnity, to our apartments, to bid us farewell. Having been charged only to conduct us to Ou-tchangfou, their mission was now ended, and they were about
to return to their
own
country.
company by land and water now we had gradually become we had shared in the good and the bad times on the road and it was not without a kind of emotion that we now saw the moment arrive that was to separate us forever. Our regrets were certainly not as lively and profound as those we had expetraveled in
for'the space of two months accustomed to live together ;
;
We had
rienced in bidding adieu to our Thibetan escort. had no friendly ties to sever, but merely a certain habit
of being together, which is easily acquired during long and toilsome journeys, and which it is disagreeable to break off in order to form new ones. Master Ting had
We
provoked us more than once, and we had often quarreled ; yet, on the whole, we had become tolerably good At bottom he was not a bad fellow, for a friends. Mandarin and if one only let him play the Chinese a
;
little,
is to say, finger the sapecks right and left all the road, he was tolerably good-humored and along amiable.
that
160

farewells were extremely verbose, but instead of we laughed a great deal as we recollected many
Our
weeping,
afterward showed curious incidents of the journey. him a piece of politeness, a la Chinoise, by inquiring whether, in a pecuniary point of view, he had reason to
We
be
ji
satisfied
with having accompanied us, and had made
pretty round
sum by
lie
it.
rubbing his hands, "the business has been pretty good; I have got together a nice little lot of ingots ; but you know, of course, it was not
"Why,
yes,"
said,
for the
sake of
money
that I wished to
accompany you."
"Oh, of course not; who could think that?" "It is eviden^ that I don't like money; I never did; but I should like to offer a little present to my mother
on
my
return.
It is for her sake I
wish to make some
profit."
"That is, Master Ting, a fine and noble feeling. In loving money, then, you only practice filial piety ?" "Exactly; filial piety is the very foundation of the
ought to be the prime motive of all took his leave, wishing that the star of happiness might shine on our route all
social relations;
it
our actions."
the
And Master Ting
way
to Canton.
off quite delighted with the idea of having persuaded us that he had been induced by pure filial piety to fleece the Mandarins, all along the road from the capital of Sse-tchouen to Ou-tchang-fou. The only one of our Sse-tchouen escort who did not leave us here was the servant, Wei-chan, whom the
He went
man had
and
This young Viceroy, Pao-hing, had engaged for us. himself his of with acquitted duty intelligence
activity,
and even appeared to have formed a kind
at least, as far as we could possiHe had been, like bly expect from a Chinese servant. the rest, appointed to attend us only to Ou-tchang-ôu ;
of attachment to us
161
but the evening before the departure of his companions, he had come to express a desire to remain with us till we reached Canton. His proposal not only met with no objection on our part, but was even eagerly accepted, though we did not think it prudent to express all our
satisfaction to him.
He had by
this time
become per-
fectly acquainted with our habits, and knew, as the Chinese say, "the taste of our characters;" and it was much more agreeable to us to have to do with a man
whom we were already accustomed, and who suited us tolerably well, than with a stranger. Wei-chan could also be of great service to us with the new escort that we were to take at Ou-tchang-fou. The one that was
to
leaving us, and which in the latter part of our journey had behaved extremely well, had, including its chief, Master Ting, cost us an immensity of trouble to bring We had spent so much pains into such good order. that idea the of Upon it, having all our work to do over Now we calculated that rather was disheartening. again the presence of Wei-chan would save us the trouble of un-
dertaking another course of education for our future traveling companions ; he would serve as a good example to
It was, the rest, and continue all our good traditions. therefore, decided that he should accompany us to Canton.
Mandarin who had conducted us

to
After the departure of our Sse-tchouen escort, the to our new abode came
that he
pay us a visit of ceremony, and to announce to us had been appointed by his Excellency the Gov-
ernor to conduct us to Nan-tchang-fou, the capital of He begged us afterward to give him our Kiang-si. on the propriety of the Governor's choice of opinion
There were for an affair of so much importance. not two ways to answer such a question in China, so we replied, that in such a choice the Governor had
him
proved most indisputably his possession of the rare
gift
162
his Excellency
of discernment into the characters of men, and that also had shown no less clearly his desire to
Before our render our journey fortunate and agreeable. fail to go and thank him for we would not departure
mark of his new conductor made

this signal
solicitude
in
and benevolence.
Our
courtesy the humblest speeches, and assured us that he had never before met with men whose hearts were so capacious
return for our
and so merciful.
When
little
this performance
was over we
tried to
have a
rational conversation.
We learned
that our
Man-
darin
that
was
is,
forty years of age, that he was called JAe&u, " The Willow ;" that he belonged to the literary
but had only attained a low grade ; that he had formerly had the government of a small district, but that he was at present out of office.
class,
By
his language
it
was easy
to see that he
was a
native of the north, from the province of Ching ; namely, the country of Confucius, which by no means implies
was of a very high order. More more dignified than Master Ting, and somewhat grave he was also more reserved, and not so amusing it was besides not very agreeable to talk with him, as he exIn his ordipressed himself Avith extreme difficulty. nary moods he slipped his words together, so that we understood him very imperfectly, and Avhen he became at all excited his talk got into such confusion, such an
that his intelligence
;
inextricable imbroglio, that

all.
we understood nothing
at
His physiognomy was very unmeaning ; there remained to him only a few fragments of his teeth, and his goggle eyes that were seen bolting out behind the glasses of his spectacles had the infirmity of frequently shedding tears ; so that when we found his name was "Willow," we could not help adding an epithet, and " The Weeping Willow." calling him
163
It was agreed between us that the new escort should be organized as quickly as possible, and so as to be ready for us to set off again in four days. The visit that we h^d had the audacity to make to the Governor of Hou-pe had produced two good effects. and secondFirst, we had recovered our lost influence ly, we had obtained an excellent lodging, where, while we were waiting the arrangements for our departure, we might recover from the fatigues of our journey and also find around us many amusements. Besides the company of the Mandarins who resided in the same establishment, we had from time to time that of the principal functionaries of the town, who did not fail to come and pay their respects to us, as soon as they learned that could also we were in favor with the Governor. in the the of without out, pleasure walking enjoy, going court-yards shaded by large trees, or in the immense though it was not so ornamental and garden, where
;
We
there was a pretty elegant as that of Sse-ma-kouang belvedere, and the most capricious winding paths imaginable.
Sometimes we went
to visit the
Buddhist temple,
sit-
uated at the centre of the establishment, and endeavored to make out the meaning of the enigmatical sentences
with which the walls were adorned. could not exactly understand what this building was there were wings devoted to the service of travelthere were vast saloons destined for ing Mandarins
We
;
literary meetings,
and assemblies of several other
cor-
porations ; there was an observatory, and a theatre, and a pagoda; and all this went by the name of Si-men-
You often find in yuen, Garden of the Western Gate. the large towns of China these unaccountable establishments, devoted to a variety of purposes.
struction is very difficult to describe;
Their conyou can only
164
JOUKNKY THROUGH
TIIH CIIIXESK KMI'IUK.
The public edifices, temples, say it is quite Chinese. houses, towns, of the Celestial Empire, have all a certain character peculiar to them which does not belong to
any known order of architecture^; one might call it the Chinese style but no one could have an exact idea of
;
without having been in China. The towns are almost all built on the same plan they are usually of the quadrilateral form, and surrounded by
it
;
high walls, flanked with towers at certain distances, and In books which sometimes also by ditches, wet or dry.
it is said that the streets of the towns and perfectly straight, but it is not less true that others are narrow and tortuous, especially in the We have seen here and there some cities of the south.
speak of China,
are broad
The houses exceptions, but they are extremely rare. in town as well as in the country are low, and have seldom more than one story. Those of the first class are
wood, varnished on the outside, and roofed with gray tiles the second are of wood or The buildings of the north clay, with thatched roofs.
built of brick or painted
;
are always inferior to those of the south, especially in the In the houses of the rich there are usually villages.
several courts, one behind another, and in the last are the apartments of the women and the Gardens.
The whole of one southern aspect is always preferred. side of the apartments is usually occupied by windows,
in
which either talc painted in various designs, a sort of transparent shell, or white and colored paper, is used instead of glass. The edges of the roof are turned up
to form a gutter, and the corners decorated with dragons and other fabulous animals. The shops are supported by pilasters, ornamented with inscriptions on painted and varnished boards, and the mixture of colors pro-
duces from a distance a very agreeable effect. Very few private houses can be called magnificent, though
165
the term may be applied to some public edifices. At Pekin the government offices and the palaces of the princes are raised on a basement, and covered with varnished tiles ; but the most remarkable monuments are the bridges, towers, and pagodas. The bridges are very numerous, and we have seen some stone ones, composed of arches of great strength and span, that were At a short very handsome and imposing in appearance. distance from the towns of the first, second, and third order, you almost always see a more or less lofty tdwer Acstanding apart and solitary like a colossal sentinel.
cording to Indian tradition, when Buddha died, his body was burnt, and his bones divided into eight parts, which were inclosed in so many urns, to be deposited
in towers of eight floors.
Thence
in China,
originate,
and in
all
it is said, these towers, so common the countries into which Buddhism
has penetrated.
theless uncertain,
The number
and
their
of these floors
is
is
never-
very There are some round, some square, some hexagonal or octagonal, and they are built of wood, of brick, even of earthenware, like that of Nankin, the ornaments of which being of porcelain have procured for it the name of the
form
also
variable.
Most of these monuments, however, porcelain tower. are now falling into ruins, but in the ancient poems are
found passages which attest the luxury and magnificence
formerly displayed by the Emperors in their construc" When I raise tion. my eyes toward the tower of
its
must seek its top in the clouds. The sheen of bricks glitters with gold and purple, and reflects, like censor to express a rainbow, the rays of the sun." and the enormous expense of the inutility energetically
stone I
famous tower of Tchang-ngan

city."
calls it
"the half of a
hundred
feet
poet, in rather a satirical vein, in speaking
of one of these edifices which
was
five
166
of astonishment high, after several strophes expressive and admiration at the project and execution of so great a work, continues : "I am in fear of asthma, and I have not dared to ascend to the highest terrace, whence men below appear like ants. To mount so many steps as that is only for those young loins that have the strength jto carry in their hands or on their heads the revenues There were formerly, according of several provinces." to the Chinese books, towers of white marble, of gilt brick, and even of copper ; at all events in part. They had three, five, seven, nine, even thirteen floors, and
outward form varied as much as their internal There were some that had galleries or balconies diminishing in width at each floor ; some were built in the midst of the waters, some on an enormous mass of steep rocks, upon which, nevertheless, trees and flowers were made to grow, and where The ascent to the you saw cascades and waterfalls. platform on which they were built was by a set of steps roughly cut, and winding round the sides of the rock, or even tlirough it by vaults and caverns imitated from those of mountains, and suspended like them over
their
decoration.
precipices.
When you reached the platform you found, as it were, enchanted gardens ; and from the midst of these rose the towers, which must have been of extraordinary
beauty, to judge from the remains still existing. The pagodas or idol temples are scattered all over
China with incredible profusion ; there is no village that does not possess several of them, and they are seen on all the roads, and even in the fields. The city of
Pekin,
it is
said, possesses ten
thousand of them.
It
must be added that the greater part of these pagodas do not differ much from other buildings. Very often they are only like small chapels, in which there arc

niches with
idols
167
in
them, and vases with burning
perfume.
some that exhibit a richand ness, grandeur, beauty, worthy of much admirafor as the Temples of Heaven and such, instance, tion, Earth at Pekin, and in the provinces several celebrated pagodas, to which the Chinese make pilgrimages at cerThere
are,
nevertheless,
tain times of the year.
The ornaments and

as
decorations of these temples are,

taste,
may
be supposed, quite in the Chinese
and
full
and the paintings and sculpof caprice and confusion tures have little artistic merit, as the arts of design are very imperfectly cultivated in China. The painters only
aration
excel in certain mechanical processes relating to the prepand application of colors ; in their compositions
they pay no attention whatever to perspective, and their Their landscapes are most distressingly monotonous.
best performances are in miniatures and water-colors, but though not devoid of a certain kind of beauty, they are still very inferior in style to the most mediocre of. European paintings. The sculptures in the pagodas have often merit in the details, but want both elegance and
correctness of form.
ers
The Chinese
assert that the paint-
and sculptors of former times, especially of the fifth and sixth centuries of our era, were greatly superior to and one may be tempted to those of the present day subscribe to that opinion after having visited the old curiosity shops, where you find articles of real merit. Temples of any great antiquity are not found in China, as they have seldom been built strongly enough
;
to resist the ravages of time, or willful injury ; when they decay they are usually left to go to ruin as they
may, and new ones
The Song dynasty, says a built. Chinese proverb, made the roads and the bridges, the
Tang
the towers, the
Ming
the pagodas.
168
JOUR'S EY
THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
may add that the present dynasty, the Tsing, have made nothing, and do not even try to preserve what lias been made by others. In considering the prodigious number of the temples, pagodas, and oratories, which rise in all parts of China, one might be tempted
to think the Chinese a very religious people, but on looking closely at the matter, it is easy to see that these
We
external manifestations are only the result of old customs, and no indication at all of pious feelings and ideas. The Chinese of the present day are, as we have
already said, entirely absorbed in material interests and the enjoyments of the present life, and totally indifferent to religion in every form. Their annals attest, nevertheless, that at various epochs they have been deeply interested in certain religious
systems, which, after
many
vicissitudes,
have at length
still
become acclimatized
in the Empire,
and
exist there,
at all events nominally.
There can hardly be said to be any such thing as a

state of religion in China, but all religions are tolerated, provided, at least, they are not regarded as politically
Three principal religions are admitted and dangerous. considered as equally good one might say equally true there have been although long and bitter wars between them. The first and most ancient is that called " The Doctrine of the Lettered," of which Conjou-kiao, fucius is regarded as the patriarch and reformer. It is based on a philosophic pantheism, which has been variIt is believed ously interpreted at different epochs. that in the highest antiquity the existence of an Omnip-
distributing rewards and punishments was in it ; and various recognized passages in the writings of Confucius give room to think that the himself
otent
God
sage
acknowledged such a one ; but the vague sense in which he has used his words, the little anxiety he has shown
169
to inculcate such a belief on his disciples, and the care he takes to base his ideas of morality* and justice, upon the principles of the love of order and a certain not verywell-defined conformity with the will of heaven and the
far,
progress of nature, have permitted his followers to err so that several of them have fallen into a true Spinozism
and have taught, while referring always to the authority of their master, a materialistic system that is degenerating into atheism. Confucius, in fact, is never religious
in his writings
;
he contents himself with recommending
in general the observance of the ancient practices of filial piety and fraternal love ; and the bringing the conduct into conformity with the laws of heaven, with human actions ought always to harmonize.
which
is
reality, the religion and the doctrine of Confucius a system of positivism. Little do the Chinese care about long philosophical lucubrations, little for questions concerning the origin, creation, and end of the world.
In
They ask
science
of time only what

letters
;
may
is
suffice for life

fill
of
and
only what
required to
official
employments
tical
of the greatest principles only their pracconsequences ; and of morality nothing but the
;
political and utilitarian part at the present day many in
in a word, they are what Europe are striving to be-
come.
They put
aside all grand disputes, all specu-
lative questions, to attach themselves to the positive.
Their religion
*
itself is
!
only a kind of civilization, and
Tse-hien, a disciple, asks Confucius how a morality sou ought to bear himself toward the enemy of his father. "Let him lie down in a mourning habit," replies Confucius, "and have only his weapons for a pillow. Let him accept no employment till the enemy of his father no longer exists upon the earth. Should he meet him, either in the palace or in the market-place, let him not go home to fetch his arms, -but attack him on the spot." In another passage this famous moralist expresses himself thus: "The murderer of your father ought not to remain under the same sky with you you must not lay by your arms as long as the murderer of your brother still lives, and you can not live in the same kingdom with that of votir friend.''
;
And what
VOL.
II.
170
their philosophy the art of living in peace, of
command-
ing and obeying. The State has always retained as a civil institution the worship paid to the spirits of heaven and earth, of
the stars, the mountains, and the rivers, as well as to the souls of deceased relations ; it is an external religion
personages and literary men Avho aspire to no one regards it as any thing more than but any a social institution, the meaning of which may be interpreted in different ways, and from which no consequence
for official
office
;
need be drawn. This worship has no priests and no idols
every
magistrate practices it within the sphere of his own jurisdiction ; and the Emperor himself is the patriarch or head of it. Generally, all literary persons, and those
who propose
to
become such, attach themselves
to
it,
though often without renouncing practices borrowed from But conviction does not seem to have other religions.
any thing
to
do with the matter in either case
and habit
conform to ceremonies which they themselves turn into ridicule such as divination, castalone induces
to
them
ing horoscopes, and counting lucky and unlucky days,

all
which superstitions are
in great
vogue throughout
the Empire.
Whatever
is
least
vague and most, serious in the
religion of the Chinese is 'absorbed by the worship of Confucius. His tablet is in all the schools : masters and
pupils are required to prostrate themselves before this venerated name, at the beginning and at the end of the
classes, and his image is to be J'ound in the academies and the places where the learned assemble, and where All the towns literary examinations are carried on. have temples raised in his honor, and more than three hundred millions of men proclaim him the saint par Never has it been given to any mortal to excellence.
171
exercise during so many centuries so extensive an empire over his fellow-creatures, or to receive homage so
like true worship, although every one knows perthat Confucius was simply a mortal man, who well fectly lived in the principality of Lan-sin, six centuries before
much
the Christian era.
worship, at the same time civil and religious, rendered to a simple citizen by an immense nation for four and twenty centuries There is nothing in human annals
!
comparable to
exist
still
it.
The descendants
of Confucius,
who
paid
by
in great numbers, participate in the honors the Chinese nation to their glorious ancestor ;
they constitute the sole hereditary nobility of the Empire, and enjoy certain privileges appertaining to them
alone.
The second religion in China is regarded by its professors as the primitive religion of the ancient inhabitand it has consequently many analogies with the preceding; only that the individual existence of spirits and demons, independently of the parts of nature over
ants,
which they preside, is more fully recognized by it. The priests and priestesses of this worship are devoted to celibacy, and practice magic, astrology, necromancy, and many other absurd superstitions. They are called Taosse, or Doctors of Reason, because their fundamental dogma taught by the famous Lao-tze, the contemporary
of Confucius, is that of the existence of the primordial reason that created the world.
Lao-tze being little known to Europeans, it may not be irrelevant here to enter into some details concerning We borrow the life and opinions of this philosopher. them from an excellent notice of him, published by M. Abel Rcmusat, in his Melanges Asiatiques. " I have subjected to a profound examination the
doctrines of a philosopher, very celebrated in China,
172

little
EMPIIJK.
Avrit-
though very
known
in Europe,
and whose
and consequently very litings, being very obscure, tle read, are not much better appreciated in his own
country than in ours, where his
heard.
,
name has hardly been
"The
this
traditions that
for
philosophy, and
have been current concerning the knowledge of which we
are indebted to the missionaries, are not of a nature to
What was most positively that this sage, whom one of the three sects of China acknowledge as their head, was born 2400
invite
any serious inquiry.
known was,
years ago, and wrote a book that has come posterity under the pompous title of 'The
'
down Book
to
of
From this title, his followers Reason and Virtue.' have bestowed on themselves that of Doctors of Reason ;' and they support their claim to this denominaIt is from them tion by a thousand extravagances. we learn that the mother of their patriarch bore him in her womb nine times nine years, and that he came into the world with gray hair, which procured for him the title of Lao-tze (* Old Child '), under which he is commonly known. It is recorded also that toward the end of his life, this philosopher left China, and traveled
very far into the West, to the countries where, according to some, he obtained his opinions, and, according to In searching for the details of others, taught them.
life, I have met with many wonderful things told him by the ignorant sectaries who suppose they are For instance, as they admit following his doctrine.
his
of
the
dogma of the transmigration of souls, they imagine that of their master not to have been its first birth
when
it came to animate the body above mentioned, but to have already appeared several times upon the It is known that earth. Pythagoras pretended to have
formerly reigned in Phrygia under the
name
of Midas
173
that he remembered to have been that Euphorbius who wounded Menelaus, and that he recognized in the temple of Juno at Argos the buckler that he had borne at the
These sorts of genealogies cost nothing siege of Troy. to those that fabricate them, but that which has been
made for Lao-tze is certainly magnificent. Among other transformations, his soul had descended many ages before into the western countries, and had converted the
inhabitants of the
Roman
!
Empire, 600 years before the
building of
Rome
to
"It appears
me
that these fables might have rela-
tion to the principles inculcated by Lao-tze, and, perhaps, present some traces of the circumstances that carried
them
to the extremity of Asia.
was
interested in
inquiring whether this sage, whose life offers so many points of resemblance with the philosopher of Samos, might not have also in his opinions some more real conformity with him. My examination of his book fully confirmed this conjecture, and also effected a complete change in the opinion I had formed of the writer. Like many other founders of religious systems, he was far from foreseeing the direction that the doctrines he taught were to take in future ages, and should he ever appear again upon the earth he Avould have much cause to complain of the wrong done to him by his unworthy disciInstead of the head of a sect of jugglers, magiples. and cians, astrologers, seeking for the elixir of immortaland the means of reaching heaven by raising themity, selves through the air, I found in his book a true philosopher, a judicious moralist, an eloquent theologian, and a subtle metaphysician. His style has the majesty of Plato and we must own also something of his obscu;
rity.
expresses similar conceptions almost in the and the analogy of the expressions is ; not less striking than that of the ideas. Here, for ex-
He
same language
174

'
Before the ample, -in speaking of the Supreme Being chaos that preceded the birth of the heavens and the immense, silent, immovearth, one only being existed that is the mother of the able yet incessantly active
universe.
know
not
how
this
being
is
named
but I
Man has his model- in designate it by the word reason. the earth, the earth in the heavens, the heavens in reason itself.' The morality professed by Lao-tze is worthy of
this beginning
;
according to
him
perfection consists in
being without passion, in order the better to contemThere is not, he plate the harmony of the universe.
says, any greater sin than ill-regulated desires, nor any greater misfortune than the torments that are the just punishment of them. He did not seek to diffuse his
doctrine.
'
'
one conceals
If one has discovered a treasure,' he says, it carefully.' The most solid virtue of the
He sage consists in knowing how to pass for a fool. adds that the wise man should follow the times, and
adapt himself to circumstances ; a precept that one might think superfluous, but which was doubtless in-
tended to be understood in a sense different from that
which
it
has among
us.
For the
rest, his
philosophy
breathes nothing but mildness and benevolence. He is averse only to hard-hearted and violent men. Mention
lias
been sometimes made of this passage concerning

'
The least glorious peace is preferable to conquerors : the most brilliant successes of war. The most splendid
victory
' but the light from a conflagration.' He who adorns himself with laurels loves blood, and deserves to be blotted out from the number of men.' The ancients * Render no funeral honors to conquerors receive said, them with tears and cries, in memory of the homicides they have committed, and let the monuments of their
is
victories
be environed with tombs.' " The metaphysics of Lao-tze offer many remarkable

traits that
175
we
How
in fact could
are constrained to pass over in silence. we give an idea of the high abstrac-
which his Oriental and loses itself? wanders It is sufficient imagination to say that the opinions of the Chinese philosopher on the origin and constitution of the universe present no ridiculous fables or monstrous absurdities ; they bear the impress of a noble and elevated mind, and in the sublime reveries that distinguish them they present a striking and indisputable resemblance to the doctrines professed a little later in the schools of Pythagoras and Plato. Like the Pythagoreans and Platonists, our philosopher admits as a first cause Reason a being ineffable, uncreated, who is the type of the universe, but who has no type but himself. Like Pythagoras, he regards human souls as emanations from this ethereal substance, and supposes that after death they are reunited with it he also agrees with Plato in refusing to the wicked the
tions, the inextricable subtleties, in
;
faculty of re-entering the
bosom
of this universal soul.
Like Pythagoras, he gives to the first principles of things the names of numbers, and his cosmogony is in some measure algebraical. He attaches the chain of being to him whom lie calls One then to Two then to Three who he says have made all things.
The
divine Plato,
in
who had adopted
this
mysterious
dogma, seems to
envelops
friends
;
it
fear revealing it to the profane; he clouds in his famous letter to three
he teaches it to Dionysius of Syracuse, but in enigmas, as he says himself, for fear that his tablets, passing over land and sea, might fall into the hands of some unknown person who should read and understand them. " Possibly the then recent recollection of the death of Socrates might have contributed to occasion this reserve. Lao-tze does not employ all this circximlocution, and it
176

in his book, thatJt formed the universe."
is clearly laid
down
was a
three-fold
being
who
This thought confirms all that has been already indicated in the tradition of the journey of Lao-tze toward the West, and leaves little doubt concerning the origin
of his doctrine.
of the
Probably
lie
received
it
from the Jews
the conquests of Salmanasar had just dispersed over Asia ; or from the apostles of some Phoenician sect, to which belonged also the philoso-
Ten Tribes whom
who were the precursors and masters of Pythagoand Plato. In a word, we find in the writings of this Chinese philosopher the dogmas and opinions which
phers
ras
formed, to all appearance, the basis of the Orphic faith and of that antique Oriental wisdom which the Greeks
sought for in the school of the Egyptians, the Thracians,
and the Phoenicians.

It is
now
certain that Lao-tze

.of
sources as the masters
would like to and what countries of the West he by a credible witness that he went
drew from the same but one know who were his immediate preceptors,
ancient philosophy
visited.
;
We
know
it is
to Bactria,
and
not impossible that he penetrated as far as Judea, or even Greece. Chinese at Athens presents indeed an
idea that runs counter to our opinions, or rather our prejudices, concerning the relations of ancient nations ;
but I believe, nevertheless, that

ourselves to
it
;
we should accustom
can not be positively proved that our Chinese philosopher did really reach Greece, it is not improbable that there were Chinese there about that period, and that the Greeks may have
it
and that though
alluded to them in those Scythians and Hyperboreans whom they mention as remarkable for the mildness and
elegance of their manners.
Besides
this,
if
Lao-tze
stopped in Syria, after having traversed Persia, he must already have gone three parts of the way, and overcome
the greatest difficulties in the passage across the plateau of high Asia. Since we have attached ourselves exclusively to the search after facts, we can hardly conceive that any one the sole desire to
that
should undertake such a long and toilsome journey from become acquainted with opinions ; but
was the time
for
philosophic travels
men were
willing to
brave every fatigue in the search after wisor what dom, they took for such; and the love of truth
had power to stimulate them to enterprises upon which even the love of gain would have hardly ventured. There is an air of romance about these long wanderings, that half prevents us from believing in them. We can hardly imagine that at those remote periods, when geography was so imperfect, and the world enveloped in obscurity, philosophers should quit their country, and pass through a thousand obstacles, over a considerable
part of the ancient continent, without what we should But all facts that consider more substantial motives. are difficult of explanation are not to be rejected, and facts of this kind multiply upon us as we penetrate further into the ancient history of the East. What we are
tempted to think is that the obstacles were not so great as we have imagined, nor the countries so entirely unknown. The recollections of ties of kindred still, it may be, linked the nations of the antique world one to another; and hospitality, the virtue of barbarous nations, dispensed the traveler from the necessity of many precautions that he could not now safely neglect. Religion favored their progress, which was in some measure but a long pilgrimage from temple to temple, from school to
school.
At all times commerce has had her caravans, and from the highest antiquity there were in Asia certain tracks marked out, which naturally continued to be followed,
H*
178
till
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIUK.
the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope changed In our opinion the the direction of these long journeys.
civilized nations of antiquity were by no means so much strangers to each other, or so isolated, as is commonly
supposed, because the motives that urged them to municate one with another are unknown to us. are sometimes disposed to place to tlie account of ignorance what is in fact only attributable to our In this respect we might justly apply to ourselves
is
com-
We
their
own.
what
said in relation to morals
by one
of the most cele-
brated disciples of the sage whose opinions we have just been inquiring into. vivid light shone on the highest antiquity, of which only a few rays have reached
"A
us.
It
because
appears to us that the ancients were in darkness we see them only through the thick clouds from
which we ourselves have but just issued. Man is an (infant born at midnight, who when he sees the sun rise, thinks that yesterday has never existed." Confucius was in frequent communication with Lao-tze, but it is
difficult to know what was his opinion of the doctrines of the patriarch of the Doctors of Reason. One day he went to pay him a visit, and when he returned to' his
disciples,
a word.
see a
he remained three days without pronouncing Tseu-kong was surprised at this, and asked
the cause of his silenee.
"When,"
said Confucius,
"I
use of his thoughts to escape me, like a bird that flies away, I dispose mine like a bow armed with its arrows to pierce him, and I never fail to reach him and master him. When I see a man making use
of his thoughts to escape me like an agile stag, I arrange mine like a running dog to pursue him, and I
man make
never
fail to
come up with him, and throw him down
when a man makes use
me
of his thoughts to escape from like the fish of the deep, I arrange mine like the
fail
hook of the fisherman, and I never
to take him,
and

get
179
into my power. But as to the dragon who on the clouds and floats in ether, I can not pursue him. I have seen Lao-tze, and he is like the dragon. At his voice my mouth remained wide open my tongue came out of it with astonishment, and I had not the power to draw it back; my soul was plunged into perplexity, and has not been able to recover its previous
him
rises
calmness."
Whatever may be said of the philosophical ideas of Lao-tze, his disciples, the Doctors of Reason, do not at
present enjoy any great popularity.
to
The
superstitions
which they abandon themselves are so extravagant, that the most ignorant make them an object of sarcasm. They have rendered themselves especially -notorious by
their
though they pretended elixir of immortality gained great credit for it with many famous Emperors. The Chinese annals are full of the disputes and quarrels of the Lao-tze with the disciples of Confucius, and the
;
have employed the weapons of ridicule against them with the greatest success, and have never failed to
latter
turn the laugh against the Doctors of Reason, as well as against the Bonzes, the priests of Buddhism, which is the third religion of China.
Toward the middle of the first century of our era, the Emperors of the dynasty of Han admitted Indian Buddhism officially into their dominions. This religion,
which has material representations of the divinity, spread rapidly among the Chinese under the name of the "religion of Fo," an imperfect transcription of the name of Buddha* So vast a religious system, professed by more than three hundred millions of followers, well deserves that we should enter into some details with respect to its origin, its doctrine, and its propagation among the nations of high Asia. The word Buddha is
a very ancient generic name, having in Sanscrit a double
180
The one signifies being, existence ; the other wisdom, superior intelligence. It is the name by which was originally designated the creative omnipotent God but it has been extended to those who worshiped him, and sought to raise themselves to him by contemplation and holiness. All the Buddhists, hoAvever, whom wo have met in China, Tartary, Thibet, and Ceylon, intend by this name to denote an actual historical personage, who has become celebrated throughout Asia, and who is regarded as the founder of the institutions and doctrines comprised under the general name of Buddhism. In the eyes of Buddhists this personage is sometimes a man, and sometimes a god, or rather he is both 6ne and the other. He is a divine incarnation, a man-god, who came* into the world to enlighten men, to redeem them, and point out to them the way of salvation. This
root.
;
idea of a redemption of the human race by a divine incarnation is so general and popular among the Buddhists, that
we have every where found
it
reduced to a
If we neat formula, expressed in remarkable terms. addressed to a Mongol or a Thibetan this question,
"Who
of
his
Hen."
Buddha?" he replied instantly, "The Saviour The marvelous birth of Buddha, his life and instructions, contain a great number of moral truths
is
and dogmas professed in Christianity, and which we nee'd not be surprised to find also among other nations, since these truths are traditional, and have always beThere must be longed to the heritage of humanity. more or less a of Cliristian truth, among pagan people in proportion as they have been more or less faithful in
preserving the deposit of primitive traditions. From the concordant testimony of Indian, Chinese,
Thibetan, Mongol, and Cingalese books, we may place the birth of Buddha about the year 960 before Christ ;
the variation of a few years,
more or
less, is
of
little
181
Klaproth has extracted from the Mongol consequence. which are books, merely translations from Thibetan or Sanscrit, the legend of Buddha, of which we are about to
give a succinct analysis. " Soutadanna, chief of the house of Chakia, of the caste of Brahmins, reigned in India over the powerful
'
Empire of Magadha, in Southern Bahar, the capital of; which was Kaberchara. He married Mahamaia, The Great Illusion,' but did not consummate his marriage
'
with her.
influence,
and on the
She, although a virgin, conceived by divine fifteenth day of the second month
of spring, she brought into the world a son,
whom
she
had borne in her womb three hundred days. Taking him in her arms, she presented him to a king, who was also an incarnation of Brahma (in Mongol, Esroum Tingri), and who enveloped him in a piece of precious stuff, and lavished upon him the most tender cares. Another king, an incarnation of Indra (in Mongol, Hormousta Tingri), baptized the young god in divine water. The child received the name of Arddha Chiddi, and was
immediately recognized as a divine person, it being foretold that he would surpass in holiness all preceding incarnations. Every one adored him, saluting him with
of Gods (in Mongol, Tingri in Tingri). were virgins charged to serve him, seven to bathe him, seven to dress him, seven to rock him to sleep, seven to keep him clean, seven to amuse him with their sports, while thirty-five others charmed his ears by songs and instruments of music. When he arrived at the age
the
title
of
God
Ten
of ten, they gave him several masters, among whom was distinguished the sage Babourenou, from whom he
learned poetry, music, drawing, mathematics, and medicine, biit he soon embarrassed his tutor by questions, and afterward begged him to teach him all languages,
an indispensable condition, he
said, of his apostleship,
182
EMIMIJK.
all
which was to enlighten the world, and spread among nations the knowledge of religion and of the true
The preceptor, however, was acquainted only doctrine. with the idiom of India, and the pupil therefore taught the tutor fifty foreign languages with their peculiar characters,
"
When
and he soon surpassed the Avhole human race. he had reached the proper age, he refused to
marry unless they could find him a virgin possessing thirty-two virtues and perfections, and by dint of searching they did at last discover one, but it was necessary to dispute possession of her Avith her uncle, who- had
also sought her in marriage. He was then twenty years old the marriage took place and the following year
young wife brought into the world a son, and afterward a daughter. Soon renouncing worldly vanities, he gave himself up to the practice of virtue and a contemplative life, and quitted his wife, his family, and his
the
preceptor, who, afflicted at such a resolution, made vain efforts to dissuade him from this step. They even
signified to him that they would keep him a prisoner in his palace of Kaberchara, but he declared that he would
get out in spite of them, and he said to his tutor, 'Adieu, father; I am going to return to the condition
of a penitent
my
it is
empire
I renounce you, dear son, wife, ; vocaI have reasons sufficient to follow
my
my
my
tion.
" Mounted on a horse brought to him by a celestial he then took spirit, flight, and went to the kingdom of the on borders of Naracara. There he conferred Oudipa, on himself the sacerdotal order, cut his hair off, and assumed the costume of a penitent. He also substituted
for his
Do not hinder me from for me a sacred duty.'
accomplishing this step
own name
that of
Gotama, that
'
is,
He who
ex-
tinguishes and kills the senses' (yo, senses, and tamd,

darkness).
183
"When exhausted by his long austerities, he restored himself by taking the milk of the cows that Soutadanna, his father, had conducted into the neighborhood of his
retreat.
great ape,
;
Khakho-Monsou, came
often to
Gotama one evening it brought him some cakes made of the honey of wild bees, and figs, and presented them to him for his repast. Gotama, according to his
see
custom, watered the figs and the honey with holy water, and then ate of them. The ape leaping for joy, fell
into a well,
and in memory of the accident the place was
consecrated under the

the Ape.' cocoa-wT ine
pacified
it
One day, was sent
name of Place of the offerings of when an elephant intoxicated with against him by a bad genius, he
'
"
by merely making a
still
He
afterward chose a
sign with his finger. wilder retreat, whither he
was followed by only two disciples, Chari, the son of his Yet, remote preceptor, and the celebrated Malou-Toni. as this retreat was, his enemies found means to discover it, and thought to tempt him by insidious questions. Eriktou and Debeltoun presented themselves first and inquired with feigned modesty, Gotama, what is thy doctrine ? Who was thy tutor ? From whom didst thou
'
receive the priesthood?'

'
replied
my
'I am holy by my own merit,' it is I who have consecrated Gotama myself What have I to do with other own minister.
;
He reReligion has penetrated my being.' that seductions of and on the occamany wom,en, pelled sion caused the tutelary genius of this globe to spring
teachers?
from the earth, and bear witness to his virtues. Five favorite disciples were then associated with their master, and their names became celebrated in the history of
they are Godinia, Datol, Langba, Muigtsan, and Sangdan. At the end of six years he quitted the desert to go and fulfill the apostolic duties for which he had prepared himself by long fasting. His disciples
;
Buddhism
184
adored him, and immediately there shone forth a glory He then took the route to from the face of the saint. Varanasi (Benares) to make his entry, but absorbed in ecstatic contemplation, he made three times the circuit
of this sacred
.the
founders of
town before ascending the throne, which tlirec anterior religious epochs had suc-
'.cessively occupied.
After having taken possession of supreme seat, he adopted the name of ChakiaMouni, the penitent of Chakia,' lived in solitude, and continued the preparatory meditations by which he fitted Followed by his five himself for his new functions. the afterward crossed he deserts, and betook disciples himself to the sea-shore, being every where received with veneration. Returning to Benares he there unfolded his doctrine, surrounded by an innumerable multiHis teachings are contude of auditors of all classes. tained in a collection of eight hundred great volumes, known under the general name of Gandjour, or Verbal Instruction. They turn exclusively on the metaphysics of creation, and on the frail and perishable nature of man. " This monumental work is found in all the libraries of the great Buddhist convents. The finest edition is that issued at Pekin from the Imperial press. It is in four languages, Thibetan, Mongol, Mantchou, and Chithis
'
nese.
The government
is
in the habit of sending copies
Lama monasteries. Chakia-Mouni experienced a lively opposition from the priests attached to the ancient creeds, but he triumphed over all his adversaries, after holding a discussion with them; and their chief prostrated himself before
of
it
as presents to the great
him and acknowledged himself vanquished. In memory of this triumph there was instituted a festival that
lasted for the first fifteen days of the first month. Chakia-Mouni then revised the principal foundations of

morals and the decalogue.
to
four.
185
First,
Moral principles are reduced mercy established on. an immovable
basis; secondly, the aversion to all cruelty; thirdly, a
boundless compassion toward all creatures; fourthly, an inflexible adherence to the law. Then follows the decalogue, or the ten
commandments, and
special prohibi-
tions: First, not to kill; second, not to steal; third, to be chaste fourthly, not to bear false witness ; fifthly,
;
not to
lie;
sixthly, not to swear;
seventhly, to avoid
impure words; eighthly, to be disinterested; ninthly, not to avenge yourself; tenthly, not to be superstitious. This last prohibition is very remarkable, and the modern Buddhists certainly do not pay much attention to it. Chakia-Mouni declared that these precepts concerning human actions were revealed to him after the four grand trials that he had gone through when he devoted himself to a state of sanctity.
to be diffused Asia when he quitted the earth, casting off his material envelope, to be reabsorbed into the universal He was then eighty-four years soul, which is himself.
"This code of morals was beginning

all
over
Before bidding adieu to his disciples, he preof age. dicted that the reign of his doctrine would last five thou-
sand years, but that at the end of this time there would be another Buddha, another man-god, predestined ages
before to be the teacher of the
human
race.
'
Until that
epoch,' he added, 'my religion will be the object of persecution, and my faithful ones will be obliged to quit India, and retire to the highest summits of Thibet, and this plateau, from the top of which the observer com-
the world, will become the palace, the sanctuary, and the metropolis of the true faith.' Such is the abridged history of the famous founder of the Buddhist religion, who endeavored to overthrow Brahminism, the ancient religion of the Hindoos. Bud*
'
mands
186
dha employed both miracles and preaching as the means of diffusing his religion, and his history, as well as that of his disciples, is filled with prodigies and marvels of
the most extravagant kind. The dominant character of
Buddhism
is,
however, a
and fraternity, which conspirit of mildness, equality, trasts favorably with the hardness and arrogance of Brahminism; and Chakia-Mouni and his disciples endeavored to put mankind at large in possession, of the truths which were before regarded as the exclusive property of the privileged classes. The perfection of the Brahmins
was
in
some meas-
ure egotistical; their religion was only for themselves. They gave themselves up to severe penance, but it was
in order to share in another
life
the abode of Brahma.
interested.
was more disNot aspiring to elevate himself alone, he practiced virtue, and applied himself to gain perfection,
The
devotion of the Asiatic Buddhist
men. In the an order of religious mendicants, which in a short time increased to a prodigious extent, Chakia attracted to himself and consoled the poor and the unThe Brahmins mocked him, because he refortunate.
in order to share its benefits with other
institutions of
ceived into the
number of
his disciples miserable men,
who were
rejected
by
the
first classes
of Indian society.
But he contented himself with

law of mercy
for all."
One
law is a replying, day the Brahmins were
"
My
scandalized at seeing a daughter of the inferior caste of the Tchandala received as a religious woman. Chakia
said
:
" There
is
not between a Brahmin and a

is
man
of
another caste the difference that there
and a stone, between light and darkness. in fact, did not proceed out of the ether, or the wind. He did not cleave the earth to appear in the daylight, like the fire that issues from the wood of the Aram. The
between gold The Brahmin,

;
187
Brahmin was born of a woman, like the tchandala where,

then, dost thou see the cause that should render the one
noble and the other vile ? The Brahmin himself, when he is dead, is abandoned as an object vile and impure, precisely like a person from another caste ; where, then,
is
the difference ?"
The religious systems of Buddhism and Brahminism resemble each other closely in many points, and the bitter persecutions which the Buddhists have experienced from the Brahmins are attributable less to a divergence
of opinion upon dogmas, than to their admission of all men, without distinction of caste, to civil and sacerdotal The empire of Brahfunctions, and to future rewards. minism depending essentially on the hierarchy of caste, they could not but treat as enemies the reformers who proclaimed the equality of all men in this world and
the next.
These persecutions were long, and extremely violent, and if we give credit to the traditions and books of the Buddhists, the number of victims must have been inAt 'length, toward the sixth century of calculable. our era, Brahminism obtained a decisive victory over the partisans of the new religion, and the latter, expelled from Hindostan,
took refuge in the Himalaya
mountains, and thence spread over Thibet, Bucharia, Mongolia, China, the Burmese Empire, Japan, and even
we have most sincerely attached to their religion are, first, the Mongols, then come the Thibetans, in the third place the Cingalese, and lowest in the scale stand the Chinese, who, indeed, have fallen
as far as Ceylon.
Ar isited,
Among
the Buddhist nations
these
who appear
to us
into complete skepticism. On our passage to Ceylon,
some Buddhists of that
country told us that their books alone contained the pure doctrine of Buddha, and that, according to the tra-
188
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMIMRF,
when he was flying from the of the he retired into their islBrahmins, persecutions and, and that afterward he rose into the skies from the
ditions of the country,
summit of one of
their
mountains, where he
left
the
It is the mountain called at present print of his foot. Adam's Peak, as the Mussulmans pretend that the im-
pression
is
that of the foot of the first of men.
In the
famous temple of Candy, where the Buddhists preserve, as they say, one of Budinterior of the island is the
dha's teeth.
CHAPTER
VI.
All Religions condemned by the Chinese Government Formulas of Skepticism Condition of the Bonzes of China Buddhist Monasteries Religious Architecture Temple of Fou-Tou Library of the Monastery Visit to the Superior of the Bonzes Profound Respect of the Chinese for Writing Convent of Bonzesses Ceremonies to recall the Souls of the Dying when they are escaping Death of a young Bachelor Mourning of the Chinese Singular Mode of lamenting the Dead Interments Worship of Ancestors Chinese Classification of various Ages of Life Marriage in China Servitude of Women Discord in Domestic Life Examples Sect of Abstinent Women.
three religions of which we have spoken in the preceding chapter, and which are personified by Confucius, Lao-tze, and Buddha, or Fo, still exist in China. After having struggled fiercely for ages, the one against the other, they are now united in universal indifferent-
THP
ism,
peace.
and there reigns among them the most profound This result must be principally attributed to
the literary classes. The Doctors of Reason and the Buddhists had aban-
doned themselves to so many superstitions, that the disciples of Confucius had no great difficulty in turning
them into ridicule. The pamphlets full of spirited satire which they have continually been firing off at the Bonzes and the Tao-sse have at length stifled in these people every religious sentiment, and the Emperors themselves
have done their part toward plunging the nation into the skepticism which is eating away its spiritual life, and There effecting it dissolution with frightful rapidity. is still extant a collection of sentences composed by the
190

;
Emperor Kliang-hi for the instruction of his people and Yoang-tching, who succeeded him on the Imperial
made commentaries upon his father's senwhich are intended to be read in public by the One of the points on which the princely magistrates. commentator particularly insists, is the propriety of cheriishing an aversion to all false sects, that is to say, in He passes them in review, and fact, for all religions. condemns them all, without exception ; but that of Buddhism, which is the most widely diffused 'in China, is
throne, has
tences,
He speaks of especially the object of his reprobation. the dogmas on which it rests with contempt ; he turns
its
practices into derision.
The Buddhists, like other followers of Indian sects, attach much importance to certain words or syllables,
which they repeat continually, thinking to purify themselves from their sins, by the mere articulation of these holy syllables, and to effect their salvation by this easy method. The Imperial commentator rallies them keenly upon this practice. "Suppose," he says, "you had violated the laws in some way, and that you were taken into the hall of judgment to be punished; do you think if you were to go on bawling a thousand times over,
'Your Excellency! Your Excellency!' the magistrate would be any more likely to spare you for that ?" In
other passages, this comparison tends to nothing less than the destruction of all idea of worship or homage
rendered to the divinity. These sentence's are real lessons in atheism, addressed by a sovereign to his subjects.
" If you do not burn any paper in honor of Fo, and if you do not deposit any offerings on his altar, he will be displeased, you think, and send his judgments on
your head. Fo be then
What
!
a miserable creature must your god Let us take the example of the magistrate

of your district:
191
him, and pay your court to him,
should you never go to compliment if you are honest
people, attentive to your duty, he will not the less be
well disposed toward you ; but if you transgress the law, commit violence, and encroach on the rights of
others,
you should
he will always be dissatisfied with you, though find a thousand ways of flattering him."
is,
The
Christian religion
of course, not spared
by
the
commentator of the Emperor Khang-hi, who was very favorably disposed toward the missionaries, but regarded them merely as artists and learned men, from whom ho
might obtain some advantage for the State, as the following passage from his successor, Yoang-tching, will " The sect of the Lord of tend to prove. Heaven," he " a sect that is about heaven
says,
perpetually talking
and beings without substance or shadow, this but as the Eureligion, also, is perverted and corrupt ropeans who teach it understand astronomy and mathematics, the Government has employed them to correct the calendar. It by no means meant, however, to imply by that that their religion was good, and you must not
earth,
;
and
believe
any thing they

instructions
fail
tell
you."
Such
spiritual
quarter, could not
coming from so high a and all belief in a and future life has been accordingly things
as
this,
to bear fruit,
extinguished.
The
tional
mind
religious sentiment has vanished from the nathe rival doctrines have lost all authority, ;
and
their partisans,
fallen into the
grown skeptical and impious, have abyss of indifferentism, in which they
is, satisfied, San-kiao-y-kiao, every body Thus all the Chinese are three religions are but one."
have given each other the kiss of peace. Religious discussions have entirely ceased, and the whole Chinese nation has proclaimed this famous formula, with which " The that is
192
same time partisans of Confucius, Lao-tze, and Buddha, or rather, they are nothing at all they reject all faith, all dogma, to live merely by their more or less The literary classes depraved and corrupted instincts. for the classical books taste certain a retained have only and moral precepts of Confucius, which every one exat the
;
plains according to his own fancy, invoking always the " ly" or principle of rationalism, which has become the
only one generally recognized. But although they have thus
made a tabula rasa
of
their religious creeds, the ancient denominations have remained, and the Chinese still like to make use of
them
but they are
now only
the memorials of a feeling

clearly indicates this
long since dead.
Nothing more
desolating skepticism, than a formula of politeness exchanged between unknown persons on their first meetIt is customary to ask to " what sublime ing. religion''
One, perhaps, will call himself a Confua Buddhist, a third a disciple of Lao-tze, a fourth a follower of Mohammed, of whom there are
you belong.
cian, another
in China, and then every one begins to pronounce a panegyric on the religion to which he does not belong, as politeness requires, after which they all repeat in chorus, " Pou-toun-kiao, toun-ly," "Religions are many; reason is one; we are all brothers." This phrase is on the lips of every Chinese, and they bandy it from one to the other with the most exquisite urbanity. It is indeed a clear and concise expression of their feel-
many
In their eyes, a worship is ing on religious questions. an affair of taste and fashion, to which no more merely
importance
garments.
is to
be attached than to the color of your
The government,
tion,
of no
the literary classes, the whole nain fact, regards all religions as things futile and interest ; and it may therefore easily be supposed
193
that there reigns in China an incomparable toleration for The Chinese enjoy, in fact, the every kind of worship. most perfect liberty in this respect, provided always that
the authorities can be convinced that under pretense of a religious association you are not concealing a political
we have
For this reason only, as object injurious to the State. said before, the Christians are reproached and/
persecuted by the magistrates. No one ever thinks of persecuting the Bonzes and
the Tao-sse.
They
are left to live in poverty
and con-
tempt in their obscure abodes, without
any one ever
troubling himself about them, with the exception, perhaps, of an occasional practitioner of the art of magic
who may come

to burn
to consult them about casting lots, some painted paper and perfumes at the feet
or
of
an idol, or to order a few prayers in the hope of imThe exmediately making a large fortune by them. tremely slender fees that the Bonzes receive on such
occasions, however,
tenance
if
would be insufficient for their mainthey neglected to make up the deficiency
by some
keep a school, and those
greater part of them are not sufficiently versed in the classical books for this are compelled in some
private industry.
The
who
rice.
measure to wander about the villages and beg their The revenues of the pagodas are not now as considerable as they were at some periods, and from the Bonzes and Tao-sse being able to obtain only so precarious and humiliating a subsistence, their number is
It is hardly conceivable why continually declining. men not supported by a religious faith should resign themselves to such abject poverty ; and, in fact, this priesthood of an extinct religion and a forsaken wor-
ship
is
The Bonze who

few sapecks,
compelled to recruit itself in a singular manner. is attached to a pagoda buys, for a

.the child of
some indigent
family, shaves
VOL. II
I'Jl
.IGl'KNKY THROUC.ll
Till:
CIIINKSK KMI'IKK.
disciple of him, or rather a servchild vegetates thus in the company of his master, and by degrees accustoms himself to that
his head,
ant.
and makes a
The poor
mode of life. Subsequently he becomes the successor and heir of him to whom he has been sold, and he
then seeks, in his turn, to procure for himself a small
perpetuated the race of Bonzes, whose influence has been so great at different epochs, as may be seen in the annals of China, but which at the present day has completely lost all authority and
is
disciple. In this
manner
The people have no longer the smallest respect for them. They are often brought on the stage, and made to play the most infamous parts ; indeed, such is the contempt into .which they have fallen, that the
credit.
insurgents have lately thought to render themselves
popular by massacring them every where on their passage.
There were formerly, in the environs of the most celebrated pagodas, great monasteries, where numerous Bonzes lived in community, in the manner of the Lamas
and Tartary. They possessed rich libraries, Chinese and Indian books that had any relation to the Buddhist religion were kept. In these were to be seen the finest editions of the " Gandgour," or " Verbal Instructions of Buddha," in 800 large vol" umes, and the Dandgour," in 232. This last work
of Thibet
in
which
all
is
a sort of religious Encyclopaedia, or ecclesiastical hisAt present, however, these famous tory of Buddhism. libraries are almost deserted. have had occasion to
We
visit
a great number of them, and among the rest that of Pou-tou, one of the most renowned in the Celestial
Empire. Pou-tou is an island of the great archipelago of Chu-. More san, on the coasts of the province of Tche-kiang.
195
than 100 monasteries, more or less important, and two of which were founded by emperors, are scattered over the sides of the mountains and valleys of this picturesque
and enchanting
it
island,
which nature and
art
have comAll over
bined to adorn with their utmost magnificence.
find delightful gardens, full of beautiful flowers cut in the living rock, amidst groves of bamboo gi'Ottoes
you
and other trees, with aromatic banks. The habitations of the Bonzes are sheltered from the scorching rays of the sun by umbrageous foliage, and scattered about in the prettiest situations imaginable. Thousands of winding paths cross the valleys in various directions, and the brooks and rivulets, by means of pretty bridges of stone or painted wood, and form the communications betAveen
In the centre of the island rise the scattered dwellings. two vast and brilliant edifices Buddhist temples the
yellow bricks of which announce that their construction
is
due to imperial munificence. The religious architecture of the Chinese does not at all resemble ours.
idea of the majestic, solemn, and perhaps somewhat melancholy style, that harmonizes so well with the feelings which ought to be inspired by a place When they wish to devoted to meditation and prayer. build a pagoda, they look out for the most gay and smiling site they can find on the declivity of a mount-
They have no
ain or in a valley
they plant
it
they trace about evergreen species sides of which they on the paths,
;
with great trees of the it a number of
place flowering It is through shrubs, creeping plants, and bushes. these cool and fragrant avenues you reach the building,
which
is
surrounded by
galleries,
and has
less the air of
a temple than of a rural abode charmingly situated in the midst of a park or garden. The principal temple of Pou-tou is reached by a long
avenue of grand secular
trees,
whose thick
foliage is
iHtt
with troops of crows with white heads, and their a continual cawings and flapping of wings keep up At the end of the avenue is a magnificent clamor.
filled
lake,
ters like
surrounded with shrubs that lean over its waweeping willows turtle and gold fish gleam
;
through them, and mandarin-ducks, in their gayly colored plumage, play over their surface, amidst the splendid water-lilies, whose rich corollas rise majestically upon tender green stalks spotted with black. Several
and lead
first
bridges of red and green wood are thrown over this lake, to flights of steps, by which you ascend to the
of the temple buildings
a kind of porch, supported
upon eight enormous granite columns. On the right and left are stationed, like sentinels, four statues of colossal size, and two side gates lead to the vestibule of the principal nave, where is enthroned a Buddhist Trinthe Past, the Present, and the Future. ity, representing These three statues are entirely gilt, and, although in
a crouching posture, of gigantic dimensions at least Buddha is in the midst, his hands twelve feet high.
and gravely placed on his majestic abdomen. represents the Past, and the unalterable and eternal quiet to which it has attained; the two others, which have the arm and the right hand raised, in sign of their activity, the Present and Future. Before each idol is an altar covered with little vases for offerings, and cassolets of chiseled bronze, where perfumes are
interlaced,
He
constantly burning. crowd of secondary divinities are ranged round the hall, the ornaments of which are composed of enormous lanterns, of painted paper or horn, square, round,
indeed, of all forms and colors, and the walls are with broad strips of satin, with sentences and hung
oval
maxims.
The
third hall is consecrated to
Kouang-yn,
whom
197
the greater number of accounts of China persist in regarding as a goddess of porcelain, and sometimes also
According to the Buddhist mythology, a person of the Indian Trimourti, or TriKouang-yn une God, representing the creative power.
of fecundity.
is
Finally, the fourth hall is a pantheon, or pandemonium, containing a complete assortment of hideous idols, with ogres' and reptiles' faces. Here you see, huddled together pell-mell, the gods of heaven and earth fabu;
lous monsters, patrons of war, of the silk manufacture, of agriculture, and of medicine ; the images of the saints
of antiquity, philosophers, statesmen, warriors, literary in a word, the most heterogeneous and grotesque assembly conceivable.
men
This temple
present
it
is
divided into four parts.
and decoration must have cost enormous sums

is in
Its building but at ;
rich roof of gilt

faced, so that
a complete state of dilapidation. The and varnished tiles is broken and de-
when rain falls, it washes the heads of the who seem to need an umbrella more than the The other paperfumes that are burning at their feet.
poor
idols,
.
godas are in no better condition ; some are falling entirely into ruins, and the gods lie prostrate, with their faces to the ground, and serve sometimes for seats to the
curious travelers
who
visit this
holy
isle.
vast monasteries of Pou-tou, where once dwelt multitudes of Bonzes, are now entirely abandoned to
legions of rats,
their
The
and great spiders which peacefully weave enormous webs in the deserted cells. The cleanest and best preserved place is the library, and the Bonze
it
in charge of
desired that
we
should pay
it
visit
but
we found
it
very
inferior to those that
we had
seen in
Tartary and Thibet.
It possessed about
enveloped in yellow satin, carefully ticketed in order in cases surrounding a vast saloon.
8000 volumes, and ranged
They
re-
198

and liturgy of the Most of them are translations
relig;
late exclusively to the theology
ion of
Buddha.
but
some are simple Chinese transcriptions of Indian books, which the Chinese can read fluently, without understandWe hinted to the libraing a word of their contents.
rian that books of this kind could not be particularly instructive to the Bonzes.
"The religious family of Buddha," he replied, "finds now no more attraction in books. The Bonzes of Poutou read none no more those they can understand, than those they can not. They never set a foot in the library. I see none but strangers who come to visit the place out of curiosity."
The religious Buddhist, who made this confession, did not seem to partake the indifference of his brethren ; on the contrary, he was a true type of the bibliopole.
For eighteen years that he had resided at Pou-tou, he had scarcely quitted his library. He passed in it the whole day and a part of the night, continually occupied,
depths of the books, that were lying open on a table in the corner, attested, in fact, that he was doing something else than merely keeping the place; and if we had been disposed to listen to him, he was quite ready and willing to favor us with a review of the collection,
said,
he
in sounding the unfathomable
doctrine.
Some
accompanied by a little analysis of the contents of each volume. He did, indeed, begin with wonderful enthusiasm, and it was easy to see that he did not often find
visitors complaisant enough to listen to his dissertations on what for him had become a true worship. But want
of time compelled us to deprive him and ourselves of the pleasure of this learned oration.
habitation
paid a visit to the superior of the island, whose was situated near the principal temple. The apartments he occupied were almost clean, and it might
We
199
even be seen that certain notions of luxury had formerlyThis superior was a presided over their arrangement. man of about forty years of age, whose language did
not indicate any great skill in literature or theology, but whose cunning eye, and brief emphatic speech, denoted a man accustomed to business and command. He told us that for some years past he had been endeavoring to get the pagodas of the island restored, and that almost all the Bonzes under his authority were now in the interior of the
Empire, in quest of the funds necessary to the realization of his project. The collections made, however, he said, had hitherto been very small ; and he
fail to add many long lamentations over the decay of zeal for the worship of Buddha. As he knew that we were missionaries, we thought we might frankly express our own opinion on the subject of the indifference he was deploring. "We are not at all surprised," said we, "to see the Chinese cold and careless toward
did not
a worship including so
faith,
many
contradictory articles of
and which darken and confuse common-sense."
"That is the thing," he replied; "your marvelous intelligence has seized the true point of the difficulty."
tions
be seduced for a time by vain superstibut sooner or later they perceive their futility, and easily detach themselves from them."
;
"Men may
are full of clearness and precision." which has no root in truth can not satisfy The nations may put faith the heart and mind of man.
"These words
"A religion
it for
in
a time
is
but their faith
is
neither firm nor du-
rable."
"That
the true explanation.
The
central nation,
has no more faith, and that is why my Bonzes come back with empty hands. It is known that religions are
numerous, but that Reason is immutable." "False religions, based upon lies, have, indeed, only
200
is eternal, and consequently and place. The religion of the Lord of Heaven, which is the expression of the truth, is for all men it is immutable as its foundation." This chief Bonze was tolerably well acquainted with the Christian doctrine; he had read several books concerning it, and among others the celebrated one of FaHe ther llicci, upon the "True Knowledge of God." had the politeness to tell us that our religion was sublime incomparable, and that as for his own, it had not even common-sense; and then he added the formula customary among the Chinese Pou-toun-kiao toun-ly " Religions are many, reason is one:" and with this deplorable conclusion he abruptly changed the subject, and began to talk to us of the fine plans he had in his head for the restoration of the pagodas. As we left Pou-tou, we met several boats making for the port of the little island. They were laden with from their Bonzes, returning quest, and we inquired " whether they had been fortunate. Oh, yes," cried a in a of "we are bringing novice, transport joy; young back plenty of sapecks!" Scarcely had he uttered the words before he received a hard thump on the head from an old Bonze, who was sitting, hunched up, near this indiscreet young person.
a certain time; but truth
for all times
"Shaven
devil!" cried the worthy man, "will

lies ?
never cure yourself of telling deed!"
We
you
sapecks in-
The poor
to
cry.
He
child hid his face in his hands, and began seemed to understand, too late, that he
it
had committed an imprudence, and that
is
not well
to reveal the secret of one's riches to the first comer.
The
for
old
Bonze had had more experience.

lies
!
"
There,"
said he, giving another cuff to the poor novice, "that's
your
I'll
give
you more knocks than we have

sapecks."
politeness,
201
Then turning
"It
is
to us, he said, with bland necessary to correct youth when it
outrages the truth ; that is an incontestable principle. Our excursion into the district of Han-tcheou has not
been fruitful. The rice harvest had been a bad one, and the people were in indigence how, then, could they bestow alms on the family of Buddha ? We have, however, had the happiness to collect a large quantity of neglected paper, and thus to save innumerable written
;
characters from profanation. Respect for written characters has been inculcated by the saints of antiquity."
And
as he spoke, he pointed to a little boat following
them that contained a cargo of waste paper. The flotilla of Bonzes then continued its route, and we could not help thinking that they had probably collected a tolerable sum, or the old Bonze would not have
been so hard upon the young novice for his indiscretion. When a Chinese has money, he will never admit that he has ; and if he boasts of having it, you may almost This mania is always be sure that his purse is empty. not peculiar to the Chinese character ; it may be found
elsewhere.
In showing us the boat filled with old bits of paper, Bonze had said that respect for written characters had been recommended by the saints of antiquity ; and we had, in fact, remarked, during our long abode in the Celestial Empire, that generally all the Chinese profess
the
a profound veneration for the written word. They take care not to to uses put profane any paper on which great
letters are written or printed. Coarse paper is sold at a low for and other similar purposes ; very price packages,
but they preserve with respect whatever has writing on Even the it, and avoid treading upon it, or dirtying it.
children have the
same
habit.
We
do not believe that the Chinese attach any super-
202

idea to this practice; they appear simply 1o
stitious
it to pay honor to human thought, which In be said to be incarnate, and fixed in writing. this point of view, the scrupulous solicitude of the Chi-
intend
by
may
nese for the written character

admiration.
is,
perhaps, worthy of
it is
As, however, even in China, all are not as careful as supposed they ought to be of written paper, but
it,
leave
profanation,
either from neglect or forgetfulness, exposed to a certain class of Bonzes make it their
special mission to institute every
where an exact and
minute search
and and a hook in their hands, and they stop by preference in places where rubbish and filth is thrown, and pick
traverse towns, villages, frequented high roads, with a hod on their backs,
after
it.
They
up
Their carefully every scrap of paper they can see. collections are then carried into a pagoda, to be burnt
before the images of the sages of antiquity. The majority of the most celebrated pagodas of China
are nearly in the same state of decay as that of Pou-tou. Decay and want of faith are every where perceptible, and nothing indicates that these Buddhist edifices will ever recover their ancient lustre. The remembrance of their renown attracts to them, at certain epochs, a num-
ber of visitors
but it is curiosity and not religion that ; them. They go to burn incense at the feet of brings the idols, or to bargain with the Bonzes for prayers ; but these votaries are in fact mere pleasure seekers, and
their journeys to the the sake of recreation.
pagodas little parties got up for You do also occasionally meet
people walking in the places sacred to Buddhist devotion, but they are mere promenaders, not pilgrims.
There do not exist any monasteries, properly so called, where Bonzes live in community. The religious Buddhists scattered over the different provinces of the
Em-
203
pire are independent of one another, and unconnected by any tie of discipline or hierarchy. In each house
there is indeed a chief, but he is rather an administrator
of temporal goods than a spiritual superior. not exercise any authority over his brethren,
He
who
does
live
without any rule, just as their caprice dictates, sometimes in one way, sometimes in another, being often
absent for a long time from the monastery, going vagabondizing about the country, as long as they can pick
up a living, and only returning home when driven by hunger; indeed, if they happen to find any where a position to suit them, they do not come back at all. To make yourself a Bonze, you have only to shave your head and put on a robe with long wide sleeves to
;
cease to be one, merely to change your coat and let your hair grow, wearing a false tail until your own has The religious Budattained the fashionable length.
dhists of China,
influence
it is obvious, are far from having the and importance of the Lamas of Tartary and
Thibet.
Convents of Bonzesses are rather numerous in China, especially in the provinces of the South, and their costume differs very little from that of the Bonzes ; they also have their heads shaven ; they are not cloistered, and are frequently met with in the streets. If we should
give credit to public rumor, we should say also that there reign great disorders in the interior of these establishments, and it is certain that respectable people, who are a little anxious about their reputation, will not set
foot in them.
*)
From
all
that
we have
condition of the various
modes of worship recognized
said concerning the present in
China, and the position of their ministers, it is allowable to conclude that the Chinese are living absolutely
without religion.
There remain among them a few
jui
.Mil
UNKY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
to which they yield rather from superstitious practices, than habit conviction, and from which they are very
No account whatever is taken of re-, easily detached. belief by the legislature, and the magistrates ligious The idea of an it to turn it into ridicule. of only speak
government, and an atheistical law, which in France was so extolled in the Chamber of Deputies, has been actually realized in China, but it does not seem that the nation has greatly gained thereby in grandeur and prosperity.
atheistical
During our residence at Ou-tchang-fou, in the establishment called /Si-men-yuen, or Garden of the Western Gate, we happened to be witnesses of an occurrence which shows how possible it is to reconcile the most
superstitious practices with the total absence of any have said that this vast inreligious conviction.
We
where we were awaiting the day of our departure, had various tenants of different classes. Op>. posite to the apartment assigned to us, in a spacious
stitution,
court, there
was another wing of the
building, in a rather
This was occupied by a retired Mandaelegant style. with a numerous rin, family, who had held formerly a
office in the magistracy, and who had delayed for two years his return to his native province, in the hope that his influence with the first functionaries of the town might obtain for his eldest son a small Mandarinate. This aspirant had as yet only the grade of Bachelor, though he was married, and had three chil-
high
dren. During these two years of expectation, the hopes of the old Mandarin had not been realized, but his son,
instead of being promoted to a public office, had fallen of a malady that seemed likely to carry him to the tomb. At the time of our arrival we found the family
ill
plunged into great grief, for the state of the sick man was so alarming that they Avere already preparing to
205
make him
coffin.
The death
of this
young man
would, it was evident, be regarded by the whole family as a terrible event, for he was its hope and support.
the very first night that we passed in our new lodging, the Garden of the Western Gate resounded
cries and the letting off of fire-works, which were heard, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, but almost without interruption. The purpose of all
On
with
this clamor
was
to save the dying
man.
The Chinese
think, as
we
do, that death is the result
of the definitive separation of the soul from the body, but they also think that the degree of illness is in direct proportion to the number of attempts which the soul
makes
to escape,
and when the
sufferer experiences the
terrible crises that
endanger his life, it is proof that the soul has been momentarily absent, that it keeps going away to a certain distance, but returns again. The distance being so small that it is still able to exercise considerable influence on the body, and keep it alive,
although
tion
;
it suffers dreadfully from this transitory separathe dying person falls into the last agony, it is evident that the soul has gone with the firm resolution
if
yet
not to come back again. Nevertheless all hope lost, and there is a method of making it take
is
not
its
up
abode again in the unfortunate body that is struggling with death. They try first the effect of persuasion, and endeavor by prayers and supplications to induce the soul to change its resolution. They run after it, they
it to come back, they describe in the most movterms the lamentable state to which they will be ing reduced if this obstinate soul will not hear reason.
conjure
They tell it that the happiness of the entire family depends upon it, they urge it, flatter it, overwhelm it with entreaties. "Come back, come back!" they cry, "what have we done, what have we done to you?
206
Come motive can you have for going away? knows no one and as back we conjure you," very well which way the soul is gone, they run in all directions,
What
and make a thousand evolutions in the hope of meeting it, and softening it by their prayers and tears. If these mild and insinuating methods do not succeed, if the soul remains deaf, and persists coolly ingoing its own way, they adopt another course, and try :ul frighten it. They utter loud cries, they let off fire-works suddenly in every direction in which they imagine it might be making off they stretch out their arms to bar its passage, and push with their hands to force it to return home and re-enter the body. Among those who set out on the chase after a refractory soul, there are always some more skillful than others, who manage to get
;
'
upon
Then they summon the others to help its track. " Here it is! here it is!" and immethem, calling out, diately every body runs that way. They then unite
their forces, they concentrate their plan of operations, they weep, they groan, they lament, they let off squibs
and crackers of round the poor
all
kinds, they make a frightful charivari soul, and hustle it about in all sorts of
ways, so that if it does not give it up at last, it must really be a most stubborn and ill-disposed spirit. When they are setting out on this, strange errand they never fail to take lanterns with them in order to light the soul on its way back, and take away any pretense
might make of not being able to find it. These ceremonies mostly take place during the night, because, say
it
the Chinese, the soul is in the habit of taking advantage of the darkness to slip away. This opinion seems to be somewhat akin to that expressed by M. de Maistre, in
: "The night air is not good," he says, " for the physical man. The animals teach us this, when they all seek a shelter in the night ;
his Soirees de Saint Petersbourg

our maladies teach us
this,
20t
by raging most during
the
do you in the morning send to ask how a night. sick friend lias passed the night, rather than in the even-
Why
It must be ing to know how he has passed the day? because there is something bad in the night."
In the garden of the Western Gate there was, as we have already said, a fine pagoda dedicated to Buddha, The gate of of whom a gilt statue stood on the altar. this temple was open day and night, and the relations, friends, and servants of the patient were continually passing through it, and before the statue of Buddha ; but no one of them ever stopped to say a prayer, to burn incense, or to implore the cure of him who seemed so dear to all this was because these people were really without faith or religion ; they did not seem to have any suspicion of the existence of an all-powerful being,
;
the Master of
life
destinies of all
and death, who holds in his hands the men.

that
All they
knew was
when
a person was in danger
of death, it was customary to run this way and that in pursuit of his soul, and try to bring it back, and they
adopted this practice simply to do as others did, without ever asking whether the custom was reasonable or absurd, and probably also without having any great confidence in
it
themselves.
night long
we were kept awake by these manoeuvres of the poor Chinese for the extraordinary arrest of the fugitive soul of their dying relative. Now and then they stopped under our windows, and we heard them addressing to it. such strange burlesque supplications, that the scene would have been perfectly amusing
The whole
and laughable, if we had not known that a numerous family was overwhelmed by grief, and in momentary exAbsurd as it pectation of a cruel domestic calamity.
was, there was something heart-rending in hearing the
208
voice of that old
with loud
On
man and those little children, calling on the soul of a father and a son. the following morning, as we were going toward
cries
the apartments of the sorrowing family, in the hope of of consolation to them, being able to speak some words informed us that the who a met awe were servant, by
just died. a number of circumlocutory phrases to indicate the fact. They say the person exists no
t;ick
man had
The Chinese have
more, he has "saluted the age," he has "thanked the world," he has "ascended to the sky," etc., all so many
expressions, more or less elegant, to be employed according to the quality of the individual of whom you
When the question is of the Emperor, they say speak. he has "fallen or given away," for the death of the head of the Empire is regarded as so immense a catastrophe, that it can only be comparable to the fall of a
mountain. soon saw persons going to and coming from the house of the deceased, clothed in habits of mourning,
We
that is to say wearing caps and girdles of white linen. For complete mourning the dress must be altogether white, even to the shoes, and the little silk cord with which the hair is plaited and knotted up. Chinese
customs being always in opposition to those of Europe, as we wear black, they of course will wear white. It is the custom in China to keep the dead a very long time in the house, sometimes even to the anniIn the mean while the body versary of their decease. is placed in a coffin of extraordinary thickness, and covered with quick-lime, so that it does not occasion any
inconvenience in the house.
is to
The
is
object of this practice
do honor to the dead, and give time for preparation
for the funeral.
His burial
the most important
affair,
one
may
say, in the life of a Chinese, the object of his

most anxious
coffin,
209
troubles himself
a mere trifle no one but the quality of the the ceremonies of the funeral, the choice of a bursolicitude.
is
;
Death
much about
that,
ial-place,
that
v
is
and the spot where the grave matter of serious consideration.
is
to be dug, all
When the death
^his
takes place these cares of course are left as a legacy to relations. Vanity and ostentation certainly have
to do with these things ; every one wishes to perform the ceremony in grand style, so as to create a sensation in the country, and outdo his neighbors. To
much
obtain the funds necessary
management
is
often
such a display some necessary, but people are not

for
alarmed at the most extravagant expenses ; they do not shrink from the most enormous sacrifices, they will even
sell their
right, rather
property, and occasionally ruin the family outthan not have a fine funeral. Confucius
v
did not enjoin
all
these foolish excesses, in the

filial
fulfill-
ment of an imaginary duty of
piety,
but he did
advise people to devote as much as the half of their The worldly property to the interment of their parents.
reigning dynasty has endeavored to check these exorbitant and useless expenses, but the laws made concerning them appear to affect only the Mantchous ; the
Chinese continue to follow their ancient customer After the body has been placed in the coffin, the relations and friends assemble at certain appointed hours,
to
weep together, and express their sorrow. often been present at these funeral ceremonies, in
We
have which
the Chinese display with marvelous facility their really The men and astonishing talents for dissimulation.
women assemble in separate apartments, and until the time comes at which it is settled they are to grieve, they smoke, drink tea, gossip, laugh, all with such an
air of careless
enjoyment that you can hardly persuade
yourself that they are really supposed to be a
company
210
of mourners. But when the ceremony is about to begin, the nearest relation informs the assembly that the time
has come, and they go and place themselves in a circle round the coffin. On this signal the noisy conversation that has been going on suddenly ceases, the lamentations and good-humored begin, and the faces but now so gay instantly assume the most doleful and lugubrious expression.
The most
every one speaks his
pathetic speeches are addressed to the dead ; own monologue on the subject, in-
terrupted by groans and sobs, and, what is most extraoryes, actually dinary, inconceivable indeed, by tears real true tears, and plenty of them.
One would suppose they were unconsolable

;
in their
and yet they are nothing more than skillful actgrief, ors and all this sorrow and lamentation is only a. disAt a given signal the whole play of histrionic talent. scene changes abruptly, the tears dry up, the performers do not even stop to finish a sob or a groan, but they take their pipes, and lo, there are again these incomparable Chinese, laughing, gossiping, and drinking tea. Certainly no one could guess that, instead of drinking hot tea, they had but a moment before been shedding
hot tears.
the time comes for the women to range themround the coffin, the dramatic piece is, if possible, The grief has such played with still greater perfection. an appearance of sincerity, the sighs are so agonizing,
selves
When
the tears so abundant, the voice so broken by sobs, that actually, in spite of your certainty that the whole affair
is
a purely
fictitious representation,
it.
you can hardly help
being affected at
The Chinese do not fail to turn to account in many circumstances this astonishing talent for going distracted in cold blood, and pouring from their eyes a quantity

of water, so-called tears, that
211
come from one knows not
is, that, although acquainted with these insinuating artifices, they are sometimes caught by them, and reciprocally cheated. It is, however, with strangers that they ob-
where.
What
all
is
also very strange
they are
tain their
most
brilliant successes.
Missionaries newly
arrived in China, who have not yet had time to become acquainted with their wonderfully flexible natures, capable of taking
by turns, and at will, the expression of the most opposite sentiments, imagine they have to do with people of the profoundest sensibility, the most impressible
in the world
tears of the Chinese are
but they soon discover that the no more to be relied on than
their words, and are for the most part purely fictitious. Cordiality and sincerity are qualities rare indeed among the Chinese.
The
rich inhabitants of the Celestial Empire,
it
is
almost needless to say,

funerals.
make an
They
invite as
many
exorbitant display at relations and friends as
they can,
muster an imposing procession, and the mourning dresses worn by the whole party are
in order to at the cost of the family of the deceased, who are also to provide them for several days together with splendid repasts. great number of musicians are
bound
hired for the occasion, and also of weepers, for though most people in China are, as we have said, pretty well
by
skilled in the art of shedding tears, there exist mourners profession, who have carried it to still greater per-
fection,
and are absolutely inimitable at sobs and groans. follow the coffin, in long white robes, hempen girThey and disheveled dles, hair; and their lamentations are the accompanied by beating of gongs, by the sharp and
discordant sounds of rude instruments of music, and the The sudden explosion and the discharge of fire-works.
smell of the powder are supposed to be efficacious in
212
away the demons and hindering them iron, the soul of the defunct, which never fails to on seizing and as these malevolent spirits have follow the coffin also the reputation of being extremely covetous, and fond of money, people endeavor to get on their weak
frightening
;
side.
They
let fall, for this
purpose,
all
along the road,
the Avind carries away in sapecks, and bank-notes, that all directions; and as the demons in China are by no means as cunning as the men, they are taken in by this device, and fall into the trap with charming simplicity,
though the supposed bank-notes are in
fact
only bits
While they are engaged in pursuing of white paper. these deceitful appearances of riches, the soul of the
defunct proceeds quietly and comfortably after its coffin without any danger of being stopped by the way. The skeptical Chinese are in general quite willing to
their funerals.
dispense with the attendance of Bonzes, or Tao-sse, at Not having felt any need of religion
during their lives, they argue, very logically, that they The discertainly do not want it after they are dead. of could admit Confucius the ciples especially hardly
necessity of offering prayers
and
sacrifices for the de-
parted, profess to believe that man dies altothat soul the vanishes as well as the body, and gether, But the Bonzes, nevertheless, falls into nothingness.
when they
are occasionally invited to funerals, on account of the witnessed greater pomp that their presence confers. ourselves, in the environs of Pekin, the funeral of a great dignitary of the Empire, at which were present
We
all
the Bonzes, Lamas, and Tao-sse that could be col-
lected from the whole country round, and they each said their own prayers, and performed their own ceremonies.
It
kiao
realization of the famous formula, San-kiao-ythe three religions are one. The Chinese arc in the habit of offering viands, and
was a
213
sometimes splendid banquets, to their dead; and these are served before the coffin, as long as the body is kept
in the family, and on the tomb after the burial. What idea is really in the minds of the Chinese on the subject of this practice ? Many people have thought
and written that the souls of the departed are supposed

to take pleasure in regaling themselves with the subtle and delicate parts, the essences as they might be called,
of the dishes offered to them; but
it
seems to us that
the Chinese are far too intelligent to carry absurdity to such a point as this. The masses, no doubt, observe these practices quite mechanically, without ever think-
ing of the meaning of them; but for those the habit of reflecting upon what they do, it
who
is
are in
impossi-
ble to believe they can delude themselves so grossly. How, for instance, could the Confucians, who believe
the complete annihilation of both soul and body, supOne day we pose that the dead come back to eat?
asked a Mandarin, a friend of ours, who had just offered a sumptuous repast at the tomb of a deceased colleague, whether, in his opinion, the dead stood in need
of food
?
could you possibly suppose I had such an idea ?" he replied, with the utmost astonishment. " Could you really suppose me so stupid as that ?"
"
How
" But what then
is
the purpose of these mortuary re-
" We intend to do honor to the memory of our relato show that they still live in our tions and friends remembrance, and that we like to serve them as if they
;
pasts ?"
Who could be absurd enough to were yet with us. believe that the dead need to eat? Among the lower classes, indeed, many fables are current, but who does
not
know
that rude, ignorant people are always credu-
lous ?"
214
JOUKNKV THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
are inclined to think that all tolerably well-informed Chinese, a little accustomed to reflection, would be of the same opinion as this Mandarin, with respect to the practices to which the multitude may possibly attach
We
which formerly occasioned such long and deplorable disputes between the Jesuit missionaries and the Dominicans may, perhaps, be regarded in the same light as the offerings to the dead. The Chinese have always been in the habit of reserving in the interior of their houses an apartment dedicated to the honor of their forefathers. Among the princes,
the great Mandarins, and all who are rich enough to have numerous chambers in their houses, it is a kind of domestic sanctuary, in which are kept tablets inscribed with the names of ancestors, from him who is counsel as the founder of the family, down to the most recently
is only the name of the founder, To this supposed to represent all the oth'ers. the the members of to sanctuary family go perform cer^ tain ceremonies prescribed by the Rites ; to burn per^
superstitious ideas. The worship of ancestors,
dead.
Sometimes there
as he
is
fumes, present offerings, and make prostrations. They go there also whenever there is any important enterprise in agitation, any favor received, or any misfortune suffered. They go, in fact, to inform their ancestors of
Avhatever of good or evil happens to their descendants. The poor, and those who have no more room in their
is strictly necessary to lodge the living, their ancestors in a corner of their room, or merely put on a shelf. Formerly, even in time of war, the general
houses than
had
in his tent a place set apart for the tablets of his
and at the commencement of a siege, on the eve of a battle, or whenever any important event seemed impending, he proceeded, at the head of his principal officers, to prostrate himself before the tablets, and make,
ancestors,
215
to his ancestors a report concerning the situation of his

affairs.
aries,
These customs were tolerated by some of the missionwho saw in them merely acts of civil homage ren-
dered to the
memory
of the dead
but they were severely

in these ceremonies all
reproved by others, the characteristics of idolatrous worship. Thence arose those lamentable contests which at this epoch so com-
who found
The question was really pletely paralyzed the missions. difficult of solution. Neither the partisans nor the opponents of the rites practiced in honor of ancestors
their opinion was supthe quarrel became embittered, and it seemed as if, henceforward, peace and harmony would no longer exist among these infant
and of Confucius, doubted that
ported
by
irrefragable proofs
Cliristian communities.
But Rome,
that tribunal sov-
eyes of every good Cathocut the condemned the worship of short lic, dispute, ancestors and of Confucius, and took effectual measures to prevent the recurrence of these unfortunate dis-
ereign and
infallible in the
had proved more injurious to the missions in China than the violent persecutions of the Mandarins.
sensions, that
The ordinary
mother
is
duration of mourning for a father or

;
three years
but this has been reduced to
twenty-seven months for the functionaries of the Government. During this time of mourning, a Chinese can
Mannot perform the duties of any public office. darin is obliged to quit his post, a minister of state to
renounce the administration of affairs, and live wholly in retirement. He must pay no visits, and his official
.
with the world are completely suspended. Once at least every year he must perform a commemorative ceremony at the tombs of his ancestors, in which
relations
all
the descendants of the family,
men, women, and
210
children, take part.
and, after
cuttings and deprescribed by the ceremonial, burn perfumes, little vases, containtombstone the turf or the on posit
dainties. However ing more or less exquisite culinary of the modern the be Chinese, skepticism may profound it is probable that these practices were once based upon
They clean the place of burial, the ground with numerous decorated having of colored paper, they make the prostrations
some kind of belief in a future life. " Almost all men," " sacrifice to the manes, that is, the souls says Bossuet, of their ancestors, by which we see how ancient is the faith in the immortality of the soul, and that it may be
classed
among
the earliest traditions of the
human
race."
these ordinances concerning funerals, mourning sacrifices before the tablets, and at the tombs of ancesall
In
tors, it is
principle of
society.
easy to see the consecration of the one grand filial piety, which is the basis of Chinese
There are indeed scarcely any customs that, closely looked into, will not be seen to tend to the inculcation of respect for paternal authority in the minds
when
This purpose is also especially evident of the people. in the numerous ceremonies connected with marriage.
some details concerning this matseen what an immense part pabe ter, ternal power plays in the laws and manners of the Empire. It is an indisputable fact that in China fathers and
will enter into
it
We
and
will
mothers, or, in their absence, grand parents, or, in fact, the nearest relations, have a completely arbitrary authority over young persons in the affairs of marriage, from
which they can not withdraw themselves. The Chinese now marry very young, though this appears to be contrary to the usages of antiquity, and the prescriptions of the Book of Bites. This canonical book establishes in the following manner the division of the ages of man :

"
217
Man, at the age of ten, has a brain as weak as his body, and can at most only apply to the first elements of the sciences. Man at twenty has not yet his full
strength; he scarcely perceives the first rays of reason. Nevertheless, as he begins to be a man, one ought to allow him the manly hat. At thirty, man is truly man ;
robust and vigorous

for
and
this is the age that is suitable
marriage. may be intrusted

cult
old,
To
;
man
and
to a
of forty, small magistracies man of fifty, the most diffi-
and extensive employments. At sixty, men grow and little remains to them but prudence without vigor, so that they ought not to do any thing themselves, but merely to say what they wish to have done. A man of seventy, whose strength of mind and body is
exhausted, should leave domestic cares to his children.
The decrepit age is that of eighty or ninety years ; men at that time of life are like children, no longer subject to
and if they reach a hundred, they need occupy themselves with nothing more than in fanning the feeble flame of life that yet remains to them." According to the Book of Bites, therefore, venerable
the laws
;
antiquity was of opinion that the age of thirty was the most suitable for marriage; but the Chinese at the
day more precocious, probably have abandoned this ancient custom. Nothing is more common than to arrange a marriage during the infancy of the Two friends make parties, or even before their birth. a solemn promise, or even take an oath, to unite in marriage the children of different sexes that may be born to them and the solemnity of the engagement is
present
;
marked by their tearing reciprocally a piece out of their tunics, and giving it to each other. Marriages contracted in this manner can not, of course, be founded on
this can seldom happen, as congeniality of character the parties have not usually seen each other before;
VOL
II.
218
liand ; the will of the parent being the sole reason for the formation of the nuptial tie. In a Chinese marriage, not only does the bride bring with her no dower, but her parents expect to receive a
\surn of money, which

part of
tract is
it is
One is stipulated for in advance. the conas soon as earnest as money paid signed ; the other, some days before the celebra-
bridegroom make
Besides this, the parents of the presents to those of the bride of silk If these presents and the stuffs, rice, fruit, wine, etc. earnest money have been received, the contract is contion of the wedding.
cluded,
and neither party can draw back.
Although
the wife has no wedding portion, it is customary for the parents to bestow on her, out of pure liberality, a more or less considerable trousseau, and it sometimes happens that the father-in-law sends for the young husband into
and constitutes him hour to a portion of his But he can not avoid leaving the rest to some property. one of his own family and name, who may perform the rites and ceremonies before the tablets of his ancestors.
his house,
This practice
is,
importance, that
it
A man
in the eyes of the Chinese, of so much has even given occasion to adoptions.
who has no male
descendants adopts,
or, rather,
buys a child, who afterward recognizes no other parent. It then takes his name, and at his death wears mourning like a son. If it happens that the father has children
of his
own
after the adoption,
it still
and the adopted child has a right
to
remains in force, an equal portion of
the property with the other children. All marriages are made by mediators for both parties, who undertake gratuitously all the negotiations and
preparations.
fulfill
It is even considered as an honor to such a delicate duty.

is not,
Polygamy
in China.
we
Formerly,
it
believe, really a legal institution was only permitted to Manda-

rins
210
and men of forty years of age, who had no children, to take secondary, or, as the phrase is, "little wives." The Book of Rites even prescribes the punishments to
be
guilty with a hundred blows on the shoulders."
inflicted for the transgression of this law. of concubinage," it says, " shall be
"
A man
punished
But these
laws subsist only in the books, and a man may, in fact, His fancy take a secondary wife whenever he pleases.
has no other limits to observe than those of his fortune, and does not always observe even those.
But whatever may be the number of secondary wives, there can never be but one legitimate spouse, who is the mistress of the house, and to whom all the others are
subordinate.
The
children "born of these secondary wives acknowl-
edge the legitimate one only as their mother; wear mourning for her instead of their real mother, and lavish
on her
dience.
all their
expressions of respect, affection, and obeentirely inferior and lawful wife in every
The secondary wife is so dependent, that she must obey the

thing other
;
and she never calls the head of the house by any name than that of father of the family. The secondary wife is never permitted to abandon
her husband for any cause whatever. She is simply the property of him who has purchased her; but the
husband may repudiate her, drive her out of his house, there is no law to forbid or sell her if he thinks proper " " a man shall send it. the his
;
code, says away lawful wife without reason, the law will oblige him to take her back again, and he shall receive eighty blows
If,"
of the stick;" but the law says nothing of the "little wife," and this silence authorizes the Chinese to treat
her according to his caprice. When the Chinese* contracts a lawful marriage he is perfectly aware that he is forming an indissoluble tie,
220
JOIKNKV THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
and the written laws of the empire are in harmony with They impose severe punishments on married persons who openly neglect their duties. They admit indeed of divorce in several cases, but all legislation on this subject is wholly in favor of
the general conviction.
the husband.
As
in all
pagan
societies, the
woman
is
always the slave or victim of the man. troubles itself about her, but if ever
her, it is
dition,
suffer.
The law seldom

it
does mention
but to remind her of the inferiority of her conand that she is only in this world to obey and to
the obstacles to marriage recognized
Among
by
the
law, there are some rather remarkable ones which concern magistrates. Mandarin, for example, is forbidden to form an alliance in the province where he
If a civil Mandarin holds any public employment. are marries officers or even takes a (military exempt)
lie is
secondary wife in the country where he condemned to eighty blows with the
is
is
stick,
magistrate, and the
marriage
declared null and void.
If he marry the
is to
daughter of a
decide, the
man
concerned in a lawsuit that he
of strokes is doubled, and in these two cases, the mediators receive the same punishment. The woman is sent back to her parents, and the nuptial presents are confiscated to the public treasury. will not enter into long details of the ceremonies and
formalities
number
We
observed
in
the
celebration
of marriage.
There are six principal
but they are all observed families of only among importance ; the greater part of them are dispensed with among people of inferior conrites,
The first rite consists in agreeing on the althe second, in asking the name of the young lady, and the month and day of her birth, for Chinese etiquette requires that she should be, at this stage of
dition.
liance
the treaty, absolutely
unknown
to her future
husband
221
the third thing to be done, is to consult diviners concerning the result of the marriage, and to report a happy
auguiy to the parents of the girl the fourth to offer silk stuffs and other presents, as pledges of the inten"tion to form the connection ; the fifth to appoint the wedding day ; and the sixth to go and meet the bride, and conduct her to the house of her husband. The ac;
complishment of these rites is accompanied in both by a crowd of minute observances from which no one would dare to depart. The formula of the missives that they address to each other, the words that they employ, the particular salutations to be used, all is
families
according to the rules of the The part, however, which politeness. is played in all these ceremonies by the family of the bride, must always wear a certain stamp of deference
previously determined,
most exquisite
and modesty.
asked, the father
manner: "I
Thus, when the name of his daughter is is required to answer in the following have received with respect the marks of
your goodness.
my
The choice that you deign to make of daughter to become the wife of your son, shows me that you esteem my poor and cold family more than it
deserves. My daughter is coarse and stupid, and I have not had the talent to bring her up well; yet I shall nevertheless glory in obeying you on this occasion. You will find written on another page the name of my daughter, and that of her mother, with the day of her When he receives the presents, and the inbirth."
formation that a day is fixed for the wedding, the father " I have received your last resoreplies in these terms :
You wish this marriage to take place, and I only sorry that my daughter has so little merit, and I fear that she has not had all the education desirable.
lution.
am
she
is
good
is
augury
nothing, yet nevertheless, since the I accept favorable, I dare not disobey you.
for
222
your present, I salute you, and I consent to the day apI will take care to make due pointed for the wedding.
preparation." On the day
marked
for the
celebration, the bride-
groom puts on a magnificent dress, and when the famhe kneels ily has assembled in the domestic sanctuary, down, and prostrates his face to the ground. Perfumes are then burnt before the tablets of ancestors, and the The master of important event is announced to them. the ceremonies then invites the father to take a place on As soon as he is seated, the the seat prepared for him. a cup of wine, of which his knees receives on bridegroom he first pours a few drops on the earth by way of libation,
fore his father, afterward
and before drinking makes four genuflections behe advances toward the seat
and
receives the
commands
posture.
The
your wife, and wisdom." The son prostrating himself four times before his father, replies that he will obey, after which he enters
father says : " Go son, go and seek behave in all things with prudence and
of his father in a kneeling
my
a palanquin that is already waiting at the door. His a and numerous of march befriends, attendants, array
custom that arose
fore him, bearing lanterns of the most brilliant colors, a at a time when it was usual to cele-
brate marriages in the night. When he has reached the house of the bride, the bridegroom waits at the gate of the second court until his father-in-law comes to intro-
duce him. In the house of the bride similar ceremonies are obAfter the libation and the drinking of the cup of wine, the bride kneels down before her father, who exhorts her to obey faithfully the commands of her faserved.
^
.
and mother-in-law, and then the mother places a garland on her head, whence hangs a large vail that " Take covers her face. she
tlier
courage, daughter,"
says,

" and be always submissive
band."
to the will of
223
your hus-
They then proceed solemnly to meet the bridegroom, who is waiting at the entrance of the second court. The procession advances, and when it has reached the middle
of the court, the bridegroom kneels down, and offers a wild duck to his father-in-law, which the master of the
ceremonies carries to the bride.

pair
At
length the bridal
and they salute each other very gravely, making a profound inclination, and then they kneel down together to "adore the heavens and the earth." It would seem that this act is the essential of the point ceremony, and in some measure the symbol of the conjugal tie. When they wish to express that " He has adored is one married, any they commonly say, the heavens and the earth." After they have remained a short time on their knees
meet
for the first
time
conducted to a palanquin covered with rosethe bridegroom also enters his palanquin, and the procession moves away, considerably augmented in number, for besides the lantern bearers aforesaid,
the bride
is
colored silk
come now people carrying beds, chairs, tables, and all kinds of household utensils. When it has once more reached the house of the bridegroom he alights, and invites his bride to enter, but marches before her to the interior court, where the nuptial feast is prepared. Then the bride raises her vail, and salutes her husband, and he salutes her in his turn, and they both wash their hands, the husband on the north, the wife on the south
there
wife
side of the portico. Before sitting down to table the makes four genuflections before her husband, who
responds with two to her, and they sit down opposite one another. Before eating and drinking, they make a libation with wine, and put aside some viands to be offered to the ancestors.
224

taste of
They then
some of the dishes
in profound si-
lence ; the husband rises, invites his wife to drink, and sits down again, and the wife performs the same cere-
mony with
two
full
respect to her husband, and at the same time cups of wine are brought, of which they drink a part, and then put what remains into one cup to drink The father of the bridegroom in the it between them.
mean time
is giving his friends a grand banquet in a neighboring apartment, and the mother of the bride For them the entire another to the women invited.
day
a
is
one long
festival, in
little
more
spirit
which the time passes with and gayety, than it does with the
newly-married
pair.
the following day, the wife, clothed in her bridal attire, and accompanied- by her husband, and a mistress of the ceremonies, carrying two pieces of silk-stuff, goes
into the second court of the house, in
On
which her father
and mother-in-law are seated

ing her
visit.
r.t
separate tables, await-
pair salute them and make four prostrations before them, after which the husband retires into a neighboring apartment, and the wife makes
The newly-married
The rest of that day and several followher offerings. are ones employed in paying visits. The wife has ing to pay her respects to all the relations of her husband,
and perform genuflections before them ; and the husband to present himself in the same manner to the relations of his wife.
riage;
Such is, briefly, the ceremonial of a Chinese marand we have observed that every one in China
professes great respect for this solemn act of a man's life. When a marriage procession, be it of rich or poor
people, passes by you must stand aside for it; even Mandarins of the highest rank stop, with all their attendants, and if they are on horseback, politeness re-

quires them to descend, ried pair.
225
and do honor
to the
newly-mar-
It appears somewhat unnecessary to add that Chinese marriages are seldom happy, and peace and harmony
do not often reign in the interior of a family. Without mentioning the numerous causes of jealousy and discord that must arise from the presence of several secondary wives in the same house, it must evidently be a surprising chance if a pair, who have never seen each other before marriage, should really prove congenial. Incompatibility of character frequently manifests itself soon enough, and thence arises aversion and even sometimes bitter hatred. Perpetual quarrels, conflicts, and even sanguinary battles, take place in which the woman is almost always the sufferer. Privations of every kind, and of every day ; invectives, curses ; from time to time
also
blows
these are her heritage, which she
must en-
In some parts of the country it is dure with patience. so much the fashion to beat a wife, that a man would hardly like not to follow it, as to show himself negligent on this point, would be to forfeit his marital dignity, and proclaim himself a simpleton, who understood nothing of his prerogatives. One day we were witnesses of a terrible scene in a
On coming Chinese family that we knew intimately. we found a numerous party assembled round a young woman, who appeared on the point of yielding her last
in
breath.
A few days before
she had been the very image
of health, but now she was scarcely recognizable, her She could face was so bruised and covered with blood.
not
move
or speak, but her eyes streaming with tears,
and the violent beating of her heart, indicated too well what she was suffering. "VVe asked for some explana"It is her hustion of this heart-rending spectacle.
band," said the by-standers,
"who
has brought the poor
K*
226
creature to this state."
gloomy,
silent,
The husband was standing there almost stupefied, his eyes fixed upon his
unfortunate victim.
"What
you
to such a dreadful excess
motive," said we, "could possibly have urged ? What crime has your
wife committed to be treated in this
way ?"
"None, none!" he cried in a voice broken by sobs. "She never deserved any punishment; we have only been married two years, and you know we have always
lived in peace.
But for some days I have had somemind. I thought people were laughing on my thing at me, because I had never beaten my wife ; and this
morning I gave way to a bad thought." And the young man, whom we could never have suspected of such a piece of insanity, abandoned himself to tardy and useless
remorse.
Two
days afterward the poor woman,

angel of goodness, expired in
who had always been an

terrible convulsions.
is the only motive of within some limits the harshness capable restraining of the Chinese toward their wives. When they do treat them with gentleness and moderation, it is usually on a principle of economy, as you might spare a beast of
In some cases, pecuniary interest
burden because
killed
it,
it costs money, and because if you you would have to replace it. This hideous calculation is by no means a mere supposition of ours.
In a large village to the north of Pekin, we were once witnesses of a violent quarrel between a husband and wife. After having for a long time abused each other in the most furious manner, and even hurled at each other some tolerably inoffensive projectiles, their
anger
increasing they began to break every tiling in the house. Several of the neighbors tried in vain to restrain
still
them, and at length the husband seizing a great pavingstone from the court-yard, rushed into the
furiously

kitchen, where the wife
227
was expending her wrath upon
the crockery, and strewing the floor with the ruins. When the husband rushed in with the paving-stone,
every body hurried forward to prevent a calamity that seemed imminent there was no time but the fellow
dashed his paving-stone, not against his wife fortunately, but against his great cast-iron kettle, which he stove in with a blow. The wife could not out-do this
piece of extravagance,
and so the quarrel ceased.
man who was standing by, then said, laughing, to the husband, "You are a fool, my elder brother, why didn't
you break your wife's head with the stone, instead of your kettle ? Then you would have had peace in your
house.".
thought of that," replied the kind husband coolly; would have been foolish. I can get my kettle mended for two hundred sapecks, and it would have
"I
"buWt
cost me a great deal more to buy another wife." Such an answer will not be in the least surprising to any one
who knows the The women

tunate, that in
Chinese.
of the Celestial Empire are so unforplaces their sufferings in this
many
life
have suggested to them the hope of a future one. It is most painful to see these poor victims of a skeptical and corrupt civilization, vainly struggling amidst their a sufferings to find some consolation, and for want of
knowledge of Christianity, throwing themselves into the extravagances of the metempsychosis. They have formed a sect called the "Abstinents," which is increas-
The women who ing rapidly in the southern provinces. enroll themselves in this sisterhood make a vow to eat
neither meat nor fish, nor any thing that has had life, but to live wholly on vegetables. They think that
after
and that
death their souls will migrate into another body, if they have been faithful to their vows of
228
life
abstinence, they will have the happiness to return to The hope of obtaining such an advantas men.
age supports them under their daily mortifications, and enables them to endure the troubles and hardships they have to suffer from the other sex. They promise themselves, doubtless, ample compensation after their metamorphosis ; and it would not be, perhaps, a very hazardous conjecture, that some of them enjoy a little the idea of the vengeance they will take on their husbands, when they shall be transformed into women.
At
various periods of the year this sisterhood goes
in procession to certain pagodas. have met them several times, and it was truly pitiable to see the poor
We
women, leaning on
little
stieks,
and hobbling along on
their
pilgrimages, in the hope that after their death they will be able to take ft good revenge on the men for all their present wrongs.
goat's feet,
to
make long
CHAPTER
VII.
Departure from the Capital of Hou-pe Farewell Visit to the Governor of the Town Burial of the two Martyrs State of Christianity in Hou-pe Disagreeable Incidents on the Road No Provisions in a Town of the third Order Visit to the Palace of the Town Prefect Treatment of Criminals Horrible Details of a Trial The Kouankouen, or Chinese Bandit Mode of administering Justice Code of Laws General Considerations upon Chinese Legislation Penal and materialistic Character of the Code Defect of Precision in certain Laws Principle of Solidarity Laws relating to Officers of
Government
Ritual
Laws
Taxes and
Organization of the Family Repression of Crime Territorial Property.
AFTER four days' rest in the Garden of the Western Gate, we began to think of resuming our seemingly felt our interminable journey. strength and cour-
We
age nearly exhausted, and we had still nearly nine hundred miles to travel, and that during the hottest season of the year, and constantly in a southerly direction.
But trusting in the protection of Providence, we did not doubt of arriving some day safe and sound at
Macao.
The preparations for our departure were made ; our old palanquins, somewhat disfigured by the dust, and calcined by the scorching of the sun, were varnished
and furbished up anew ; the new escort was regularly organized under the command of Master Lieou, the "Weeping Willow," and our domestic, Wei-chan, had
begun the education of our future traveling companions. He had insinuated to them, in his picturesque and figurative language, that it would be necessary for them to bend often, in order not to graze themselves against
certain angular points in our character.
:J30

of Ilou-pe, we finally quitting the capital salute his Excellency the Governor of the
Before
went
to
province,
who
received us with ceremonious politeness.
His language and manners had nothing of the benevolence and affability that had excited a feeling of love for the venerable and excellent Pao-hing, the Viceroy
On our side, we conof the province of Sse-tchouen. tented ourselves with behaving courteously, and strictly
observing the regulations of the peace," said he, waving his hand.
tranquillity,"
ritual.
" Travel in
"Remain
seated in
we
responded, and with a bow, not very
profound,
we
departed.
large and populous town of at the utmost, above an hour, when we Ou-tchang-rou,
We
had not quitted the
entered a mountainous country, of which the soil was of a reddish color, and furroAved in all directions by
had a vague recollection of having and on consideration we thought we must have passed through some of the windings of its numerous hills when, in the beginning of the year 1840, we had for the first time, and in a furtive manThis remembrance ner, traversed the Chinese Empire. us into a sweet sad reverie, and in plunged though order to be quite sure that we were not mistaken, we inquired of one of the palanquin bearers what was the name of the country we were traversing ? Houng-chan, he replied, "the Red Mountain." Yes, that was it! That name was profoundly impressed on our memory In passing along a narrow road bordered with thorny shrubs, that were interlaced by numerous climbing plants, we perceived at a little distance, on the declivity of a hill, two modest tombstones, placed side by side. The sight filled our hearts with emotion, and our eyes with tears. Beneath these two stones repose the precious remains of two spiritual sons of St. Vincent de
narrow paths.
seen
it
We
before,
231
Paid, the venerable Clet and Perboyre, martyred for the faith, the one in 1822, the other in 1839. Oh!
great a consolation would it have been to have stopped for a while, to have knelt, to have prostrated ourselves by these family tombs, and have kissed the
how
ground consecrated by the blood of these martyrs, and prayed to God in the name of these strong-hearted men,
is
these heroes of the faith, for a little of the intrepidity that always necessary amidst the tribulations of the world ;
for
whatever
may
be the part that the will of
God
has
\
assigned to us here below,

vary, and have need of
spirit.
we
are all children of Cal-
some portion of the martyr's
Prudence, however, did not permit us to stop. There would have been danger in pointing out this sacred treasure to the numerous persons who accompanied us.
In 1840, when we visited these dear tombs, we were
young Christian of Ou-tchang-fou, who served us for a guide, and this is what we wrote at the time to our brethren in France :
alone with a
" The precious remains of MM. Clet and Perboyre repose side by side on a green hill, at a short distance from the town of Ou-tchang-fou. Oh, how delightful was the hour I passed near these simple but covered mounds. Upon an idolatrous soil, in the midst of the Chinese Empire, a feeling of rapturous happiness hitherNo to unknown seemed to fill and dilate my soul. chiseled marble covers the bones of these two glorious children of St. Yincent de Paul, but God himself seems Parato have undertaken the care of their mausoleum. sitical plants and thorny shrubs, resembling the acacia, grow around it ; and above the carpet of verdure that
covers
it,
rise in elegant profusion the beautiful blos-
soms of the mimosa.
As we contemplated
these brill-
iant flowers, escaping from a thick net-work of thorns,
PC
JOUKXEY THROUGH THE CHINESE
EMl'lUll.
we thought
involuntarily of the glory with which the of martyrs are crowned in heaven." sufferings The two tombs were exactly in the same state as
left
when we
them
both the stones and their inscrip-
tions appeared to us to be untouched ; only the season for the flowers was past, and the mimosas no longer The displayed their bright corollas amidst the leaves.
stalks of the wild grass too was withered up, but some bind-weed, stript of its leaves, crept from one tomb to the other, as if to form a bond between them.
Let us hope that the blood of martyrs, formerly such good seed for Christianity, may not have lost its ferin China. This land has been doubtless tilizing power hitherto deplorably sterile, but when the hour comes, the hour appointed by Him who is able " from the verystones to raise
this
up
children to
adamantine
soil soften,
Abraham," we may see and bring forth countless
worshipers of Jesus. The state of Christianity in Hou-pe is not so flourishAt most there ing as in the province of Sse-tchouen. are not in it more than 12,000 or 14,000 Christians
most of them poor, and belonging

of society.
to the lower classes
The frequent and violent persecutions that have harassed this province may perhaps account for this slow progress of the faith ; and the small numbers of the
and the continual vexations they have to endure from the Mandarins, contribute to render them timid, and to repress the ardor and energy necessary for While traveling over this province, we proselytism.
Christians,
always noticed that the Christians kept themselves concealed; they did not dare to show themselves on our passage ; we did not receive any visits from them at the
communal palaces at most, we could only discover them here and there, by their making stealthily the sign
E.MPIKE.
2S3
of the cross, in order to let us kno~w who they were. saw no signs of the spirit and activity so perceptible at the missions of Sse-tchouen, and which denoted a more lively faith, or at all events a moje ardent zeal
We
for,
the conversion of the infidels.
The mission of Hou-pe is at present confided to the care of Italian missionaries, under the direction of Monseigneur Eizzolatti, Vicar Apostolic, who has been many] Under the influence of years in the missions of China.
his long experience, the vicariate of
Hou-pe had consid-
erably increased, when unfortunately a persecution separated the pastor from his flock. M. Rizzolatti was arrested, and sent to the English colony at Hong-kong,
where he
is
now
waiting
till
circumstances shall appear
sufficiently favorable to permit him, without imprudence? to return to the bosom of his mission.
traveled the whole day, through a country interby hills and ravines, and apparently little adapted to cultivation ; we saw few villages, only here and there
We
sected
a few scattered houses and farms, where by dint of patience and industry, a few families contrived to obtain
some small return from the barren soil. Before sunset arrived at the banks of the Blue River, which we had to cross in order to reach a market town situated on The road that we followed on leavthe opposite side. ran toward the northeast, and took ing Ou-tchang-fou
we
us farther off Canton, but we were compelled to proceed by this circuitous way to avoid a number of little lakes
would every moment have barred our passage. It was necessary also to take the Imperial road, that would
that
afterward lead us directly to the capital of Kiang-si.
might have embarked at Ou-tchang-fou, and gone the Blue River, as far as the great lake Pou-yang, but as that was the season of inundation and tempests, the administration had considered it prudent to send us
We
down
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE
EMI'IIaC.
The route was longer and less agreeable, but was no fear of shipwreck. After having erossed the Blue lliver, we halted at a large village, the name of which we have forgotten, but this is no great matter, We found bad for we have nothing to say in its favor. into the bargain, a frightful lodgings, a bad supper, and quantity of mosquitoes, and a large ill-smelling insect, of the order coleoptera, called the kakkerlac,* which abounds in the warm countries of China, and delights in gnawing the tips of your ears and toes while you sleep. We were mostly lodged and fed in a deplorable manThe ner, as long as we continued on this cross-road. Mandarins in their journeys usually follow the course of the Blue lliver; and the local administration has not, as elsewhere, erected communal palaces from stage to
by
land.
there
stage, to receive the public functionaries. were obliged to lodge at miserable inns
We
ill
kept,
and unspeakably
where we had the greater diffidirty in culty procuring just enough to prevent our dying of Our conductors did whatever they could for hunger. us ; the Weeping Willow, who had promised to render
our lives so delightful, so poetical, as long as we rehis care, vainly gave orders to his subordinates order what he would, his orders produced only
mained under
the poorest results.
He was
excessively distressed, at least
we
certainly
thought his eyes poured out tears more abundantly than usual, but our servant, Wei-chan, was not tearful but
furious.
As we had
to
manage our
affairs well,
kept him in hopes of his being able he felt his honor hurt, and
his reputation compromised whenever we did not find, as in Sse-tchouen, a superb communal palace, with a
*
This insect
is
of the genus Blatta; nnd as there
is,
we
believe,
no
English
sailors.
name for it, we have adopted that used by The French name is Cancrelat. Tn.
the Dutch and by
235
He got into a passion splendid banquet ready for us. the insulted every moment, innkeepers, and cursed the whole province of Hou-pe. To hear him, you would have thought the whole town or village deserved to be
burned down, and the inhabitants to be set in the Cangue, or exiled to the end of Bucharia.'" We were obliged more than once to moderate the extravagance of his zeal, and show him that though we had thought proper to be energetic in claiming our rights, we could also be patient when circumstances required it, and that there was no reason to attribute ill-will to any one. Wei-chan listened attentively to our sermon, but that did not hinder him rating every body he came in contact
with.
we
The day before we arrived at the Imperial road, reached toward noon a town of the third order, called
were conducted to a tolerably Kouang-tsi-hien. good-looking house, that reminded us a little of the communal palaces, and we were expatiating in a cool pleasant garden, beneath the broad leaves of a thick grove of bananas, when the Weeping Willow came toward
us, and gazing at us mournfully though his tears and his spectacles, uttered these interesting words : " The guardian of the establishment is only charged to lodge
We
us ; the Tribunal told him that he need not provide any

victuals
"
" The authorities of the town, then, will attend to us ; they will, doubtless, send us dinner from the Tribunal."
By no means ; they told me the Tribunal would have nothing to do with feeding us." "Who, then, is to undertake it?"
"Nobody!" cried the Willow, piteously, extending his right hand toward us, while with the left he wiped his eyes with a bit of white linen.
"
"
Nobody
?" cried we, too, starting
up from our
seats
236
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EM PIKE.

for our palanquin-bearers,
" send
and
let
them take us
to our diplo-
to the prefect of the town."
The Weeper, who was not accustomed

matic proceedings, was seized with
fright,
but Wei-chan
calmed his fears by

this
way
all
him that we had behaved in and that no harm had ever the road, along
telling
come of it.
The
and we
palanquin-bearers arrived, according to order, had deset off for the prefect's palace.
We
sired our
men
not to
stop at the outer gate,
but to
;
in, and our orders were punctually obeyed but the porter, noticing this unusual mode of entrance into the Tribunal, ran after us to ask where we were
march boldly
going.
"To
speak to the prefect." " The prefect is sitting in judgment

of the first importance."
there
is
trial
thought this was only a pretext to prevent our and we therefore insisted upon going in. "At least," said the porter, "give me your visiting card, and I will go and announce you." In the fear that the prefect would not see us if we did, we replied to the porter, that we were not subject to
entrance,
We
the rites of the Empire, and that we would announce then made a sign to the bearers to go ourselves. on, and we soon reached the interior court, immediately
We
before the entrance of the principal hall. This court was so full of people, that we thought it probable the first magistrate of the town really was engaged as we
had been told. A subaltern officer of the palace also came up to us just as we alighted from our palanquins, and assured us that the prefect was then sitting in judgment on a criminal trial. We hesitated for a moment, not knowing very well what to do, whether to return home, or to make our way into the hall where the trial

was going
for
237
on.
As we
did not at
all like
having come
nothing, and were moreover somewhat curious to see what was going on, we put aside the crowd and entered.
movement of surprise was
All eyes were immediately turned toward us, and a perceptible throughout the as-
Two men with great beards, yellow caps, and sembly. red girdles, formed a very surprising apparition.
at the first glance we cast into the a cold prespiration come over us, and our limbs tottered under us ; we were ready to faint. The
For ourselves,
hall,
we
felt
first
object that presented itself on entering this Chinese judgment hall was the accused the person on his
trial.
He was
suspended in the middle of the
hall, like
one
of those lanterns, of whimsical form and colossal dimensions often seen in the great pagodas. Ropes attached
to a great
beam
in the roof held
him
tied
by
the wrists
and
feet,
so as to throw the
body
into the form of a
bow. Beneath him stood five or six executioners, armed with rattan rods and leather lashes, in ferocious attithe tudes, their clothes and faces spotted with blood
blood of the unfortunate creature, who was uttering stifled groans, while his flesh was torn almost in tatters.
present at this frightful spectacle their at ease, and our yellow caps exappeared quite cited much more emotion than the spectacle of tor-
The audience
ture.
Many
laughed, indeed, at the horror visible in
our faces.
The magistrate, to whom our coming had been hastily announced, rose from his seat as soon as he perceived As he passed near us, and crossed the hall to meet us.
the executioners, he had to walk on the tips of his toes, and hold up his beautiful silk robes, that they might not be soiled by the pools of half-coagulated blood with
238
which the floor was covered. He saluted us smilingly, and saying he would suspend the proceedings for a moment, conducted us to a small room situated behind the
judge's seat. divan, and were
We
fell, upon a some moments before we could recover
sat
down, or rather we
our composure.
The
*
of age
that
Prefect of Kouang-tsi-hien was nearly forty years his features, the tone of his voice, his looks, his ;
all expressed so much mildness and goodness, It could not recover from our astonishment.
manners,
we
seemed to us impossible that this should be the man who had ordered the frightful measure we had just witnessed and so strong a feeling of curiosity took pos;
session of us, that

indiscretion, put terrible affair he
we asked whether we
might, without
some questions to him concerning the was then engaged in.
"On
sire that
the contrary," he replied, "I should myself deyou should understand the nature of this trial.
You
appear to
me
have shown toward the criminal

during has
astonished at the extreme severity I the torture he is en;

to compassion.
moved you
The emotions
that agitated your hearts on your entrance into the hall mounted to your faces, and became visible to every But this criminal does not merit any considerabody.
tion ; if you knew his conduct, you would certainly not think I was treating him with too much rigor. I am naturally inclined to mildness, and my character is averse from all cruelty. magistrate, also, must be
the father and the mother of his people."

great crime, then, has this man committed, be subjected to so horrible a torture ?" "This man is the chief of a band of ruffians, who for more than a year past have been committing outrages on the Great River, which they were in the habit of traversing night and day in a large boat. He has
to
"What

pillaged a considerable
239
number
and on
of merchant junks, and
committed more than

confessing
all his
fifty
murders.
He
has ended by
crimes,
been brought to light ; but ing his companions, and I am obliged to employ these extreme methods to reach all the guilty. When one Avishes to destroy a tree, it is not sufficient to cut down
the trunk,
this point the truth has he persists in not denounc-
we must
tear
it
up by the
roots, otherwise it
will sprout forth again."
The magistrate afterward related to us some abominable atrocities committed by this gang of robbers ; of
their cutting out the tongues
and tearing out the eyes
of their cutting their ; prisoners to pieces, with circumstances of horrible barbarity ; such were the amusements in which these monchildren
of men,
women, and
indulged on board their vessel. they were, did not surprise us. Our long residence in China had taught us to what degree the instinct of evil is developed among these people.
sters in
human form
These
details, frightful as
Prefect of Kouang-tsi-hien, to whom we had briefly explained the circumstances that had caused us to commit such an indiscretion as to come and trouble
The
in his official duties, replied that his having been so much occupied with this affair was the sole cause of the negligence we had to complain of. He added, that we might now return to our lodg-
him while he was engaged
with the certainty that every thing should be arranged in conformity with the Rites but that for himself, he must now resume his seat, and proceed with the
ings,
;
trial.
Although it was late, and we had taken nothing that day but a very slight luncheon, we had very little inWhat we had seen clination now to sit down to table. and heard since we had entered the judgment-hall had
240
JOUKNHV TliKOUGH TUE CHINESE EMPIRE.
inbeen quite sufficient to take away our appetite. there would be whether of the any objecprefect quired tion to our being present for a little while at the trial
;
We
but our request seemed to surprise, and in some measAfter a few minutes' reflection he ure embarrass him.
"If you come into the hall, I fear your presence some disturbance. The people here have never seen men of the "Western countries, and if you come in, the officers of the court will hardly attend to
said,
will create
their business.
main in
to hear
this room,
However, if you wish it, you shall reand from here it will be easy for you
seen
and see every thing, without yourselves being by any one." He then called an attendant, and desired him to open a large window, and let down a bamboo trellis-work and while we took our places behind this grating, the judge returned to the hall, resumed his seat, and the trial went on, after the attendants, executioners, and officers of the court had cried three times, "Let every " one be modest and respectful After having rapidly glanced over some pages of a manuscript that was probably some document connected
;
!
with the
trial,
at his left, to
the judge ordered a functionary who stood ask the prisoner whether he knew a man
carried
named Ly-fang, who formerly
on the trade of a
blacksmith, in a village near a place mentioned. have already said that the Mandarins not being allowed to hold office in their own province, are seldom
We
sufficiently acquainted with the idiom of the countries where they are placed, not to need an interpreter whenever they have to address a man of the lower class.
judge's question was therefore translated to the prisoner, who raised a little his head, which had sunk upon his breast, and casting at the judge a look like that
of a wild beast, replied, in an insolent tone, that he
The
had

* heard speak of him. Do you had any dealings with him ?"
'
241
know him ?
Have you
I do not know him." can that be, when this man remained a long while in your boat ? Do you persist in uttering a false;
" I have heard speak of him
"How
hood ? Speak the truth. Do you know Ly-fang ?" " I have heard of him I do not know him." The prefect took up from the table a piece of bambo^ wood, and threw it into the middle of the court. A figure was marked upon it, which pointed out the number of blows the prisoner was to receive. One of the executioners picked it up, examined the figure, and " Fifteen blows cried, in a chanting tone, ;" that is to the criminal would receive for the execusay, thirty tioners ahvays doubled the number ordered by the judge and this multiplied by the number of executioners, There was immediately a furnished a frightful total. all eyes were fixed with stir in the assembly eager curiosity, sometimes on the miserable prisoner, sometimes on the executioners. Many smiled, and arranged themselves a little more conveniently on their seats,
; ;
like
The
people about to witness something interesting. executioners took their places ; and soon the body of the criminal was swinging and turning about under
a shower of blows, while he uttered terrible shrieks, and his blood spirted out on all sides, and ran down the rattans, reddening the naked arms of the executioners.
was impossible to endure such a spectacle any longer and we asked one of the officers of the court who had remained with us, whether there was not any way of
It
;
getting out, without crossing the hall.
He
urged us,
in order
however, strongly to await the end of the

-to see,
trial,
unbind the prisBut we had seen quite enough and the officer oner. had the complaisance to lead us back through a long VOL. II. L
said,
he
how they managed
to
242

where our palanquins were wait-
corridor to the gate

ing.
" This criminal was a famous houan-kouen" said the officer, as he left us; "are there many kouan-kouen in
your country ?"
"No," we among us."

It
this word,
said;
"this class of
men
is
unknown
would not be easy to give a

kouan-kouen.
correct translation o(
It is given in
China to a
race
of bandits, who make it a sport and a matter of pride to defy the laws and the magistrates, and commit all kinds of crimes. To give and receive wounds with
composure; to kill others with the most perfect coolness ; and to have no fear of death for yourself: this is the sublime ideal of the kouan-kouen. These men are very numerous in China; they form societies among themselves, and stand by each other with immovable fidelity. Some few live alone, and They regard it as unthey are the most ferocious. worthy of their valor to have an associate, or any support whatever, and they rely on nothing but the energy of their
men
The audacity of these the most incomparable; extravagant and atrocious crimes seem to have for them an irresistible atcharacters.
is
own
traction.
Sometimes they will even go and denounce themselves to the magistrates from a motive of pride.
They
all
confess all their crimes, furnish the most irresist-
ible proofs,
and demand condemnation
and then, when
the preparations have been made, and when, according to Chinese laAV, the confession of the culprit is nec-
essary; they deny all that they have said, and endure with incredible stoicism all kinds of torture. It might
really
be thought they took a pleasure in having their limbs mangled, provided only that they could enrage the Mandarins, and defy the laws. Sometimes they
243
succeed in bringing their judges into difficulties, and even getting them dismissed from their offices ; and this is their greatest triumph. In all the towns of China
find numerous collections of little pamphlets, which form in some measure the judicial records and causes celebres of the Empire. They contain dramatic biogra-\
you
phies of the most famous kouan-kouen ; and as they cost but a few sapecks they are eagerly bought and read by
the people.
The manner
of administering justice in China

It
is
ex-
without exaggeration, that there are four times as many judges in France as in the whole Chinese Empire, but this simplification is by no means favorable to the accused, for whom
tremely summary.
may
be
said,
there
life
is
scarcely
any
protection.
His fortune and his
depend almost always on the caprice and rapacity The ordinary tribunals have only of the Mandarins. a single judge ; and the prisoner remains on his knees
;
during the whole trial the judge interrogates him ; and he alone decides on the value of the answers given. There is no advocate to undertake his defense; his relations and friends are sometimes admitted to plead for him ; but that is a pure condescension on the part of The the Mandarin, and dependent on his good pleasure. witnesses is sometimes almost as bad as the of position that of the accused, for if their depositions do not please the judge, they are liable to be cuffed or whipped whenever he pleases, and an executioner, charged with this duty, always stands beside them in case he should be The accused is absolutely at the mercy of the wanted. Mandarin who is to judge him, or rather indeed of the subaltern officers of the court, who have always drawn
up beforehand a statement of the

received.
case, favorable or other-
wise to the prisoner, according to the
money they have
244
the
**
Cicero has described, with his energetic eloquence, mode of proceeding of the infamous Verres, Avhen
office in
he held
fixed
are shut
;
up
it
but
"The condemned," he says, the day of their punishment is has already begun in the persons of their
Sicily.
;
in prison
unfortunate relatives.
Even
their children are forbid-
den to see them ; and while the father lies stretched on the ground in his dungeon, they are prevented from Desolate mothers bringing him either food or clothing. have passed whole nights near the fatal gate which prevented them from receiving the last embraces of their children ; they have begged as the only favor that they might be permitted to catch the last breath of their But at the gate watches the inexorable jailer, sons.
the Prajtor's executioner, the terror and death of 'our citizens and allies, the Lictor Sestius, who levies a tax
upon every groan and pang.
'You
shall give me,'
he
' so much to go in ; so much to be allowed to says, food ;' and no suppliant refuses it. 'And you,
buy
how
much
your son at a single blow ? How much that he may not suffer a long time ? How much that I may dispatch him almost without his
will
for killing
you give me
And for these frightful services, too, perceiving it ?' must the Lictor be paid." It has always seemed to us that Verres must have
had some knowledge of Chinese customs, so striking is the resemblance between the proceedings of the Mandarins and those of the above described Praetor of Sicily. Every condemned criminal has a right to appeal to the superior tribunals, and carry his cause to the sovbut to reach it so many springs ereign court at Pekin must be set in motion, so many influences brought to bear, that most of the causes are finished in the prov;
inces.
Chinese justice
is
very severe on thieves and disturb-

ers
245
ments are
of the public peace. The most ordinary punishfines, the bastinado, blows on the face with
thick leathern soles, the cangue, or portable pillory, the prison, iron cages where the prisoner must remain in a crouching attitude, perpetual or temporary exile into
Tartary, and death
by
strangulation or decapitation.
Rebels are cut in pieces, or mutilated in the most horrible manner. Punishments are mostly inflicted in a hasty and arbitrary way, with the exception of the
rare exceptions,
peror.
punishment of death, the sentence for which, with a fe*w must have the ratification of the EmThere exists in China a code, drawn up with very full such as European lawyers would call a corpus
/
*
details,
of Chinese law.
say,
Laws and
Tsing.
It is called Ta-tsing Lu-li, that is to Statutes of the grand Dynasty of the It has been translated into English by Sir
George Staunton under the title of "Penal Code of China" a title that does not at first seem quite accurate, as there are
many
law treated of in the course of the work. It into seven portions on the following subjects.
eral
other things besides criminal is divided

1.
Gen-
Law
;
2. Civil
Laws
5.
Military
Laws Laws
;
3.
6.
Laws Criminal. Laws

Fiscal
4. Ritual
;
7.
Laws
concerning public works but the title of Penal Code, though not literal, is by no means inapplicable. Those who have observed attentively the manners and institutions of China, have been struck by two things
the one hand, the generally penal character of the legislation of the Celestial Empire. Every ordinance of the law, every regulation, is made under penal sanction, not only in criminal af-
very
fit
to attract attention.
On
but also in matters purely civil. All irregularities, faults of negligence, and so forth, that in European legislation would entail only forfeitures, incapacities, errors,
fairs,
246

some
are slight civil reparation,
or
punished in China by
It might a certain number of strokes of the bamboo. be interesting to inquire into the cause of this curious
characteristic of Chinese law.
On
the other hand,
we
and
find all China, with its official religion, its public
private ceremonial, its political institutions, its police and administration, and its vast population of three
hundred millions of men, all governed on the one single principle of filial piety before adverted to ; a principle that has been extended to the respect due to the Emperor, and his delegates, and which is in reality little else
than the worship of ancient institutions. Chinese civilization originates in an antiquity so remote that we vainly endeavor to discover its commencement. There are no traces of the state of infancy among This is a 'very peculiar fact respecting this people.
China.
find
toric
We are accustomed in the history of nations to
some well-defined point of departure, and the hisdocuments, traditions, and monuments that remain
us to follow, almost step by step, the progress of civilization, to be present at its birth, to
to us generally permit
onward march, and in many subsequent decay and fall. But it is not thus witli the Chinese. They seem to have been always livin the same ing stage of advancement as in the present day ; and the data of antiquity are such as to confirm
watch
its
development,
its
cases, its
that opinion.
It would not be then very rash to conjecture that some mysterious event of the highest importance must
have brought the Chinese suddenly to the, point at which we find them, and this fact must have left a profound impression on the imagination of the people.
Thence may proceed the

gratitude
felt
for
the
first
respect, the veneration, the founders of their ancient
monarchy, who conducted them in so rapid a manner to

a certain state of enlightenment.
247
Thence the worship of ancestors, of all ancient things, of those who hold toward the state the place that the father and mother
occupy in the family.
The Chinese have
in fact always
attached the idea of something holy and mysterious to whatever is antique, to all that has existed for ages,
and
this respect generalized has taken the
name
of
filial
piety.
This sentiment, carried to excess, had the necessary consequence of cherishing a sort of exclusive spirit, and a contempt for foreigners, who were regarded as barbarians; and in the second place, a stationary condition of civilization, which seems to have remained pretty
nearly what
it-
was
in the beginning.
reflections enable us to assign to the laws relative to filial piety, political and social, their true import-
These
ance.
As
the style
is
the man, so legislation, which
is
the style of nations, reflects faithfully the manners, habits, and instincts of the people for and by whom it has been created, and we may say of Chinese legislation,
that
it
The
represents very accurately the Chinese people. inhabitants of the Celestial Empire, being want-
ing in religious faith, and living from day to day, without troubling themselves either about the past or the
and totally indifferent to what touches only the moral nature of man, having no energy for any thing but the amassing of sapecks, can
future, profoundly skeptical,
not, as may easily be supposed, be well induced to obey the laws from a sentiment of duty. The official worin fact of China does not ship possess any of the char-
what can properly be called a religion, and consequently, unable to communicate to the people those moral ideas that do more for the observance of
acteristics of
is,
It is, the laws, than the most terrible penal sanctions. therefore, quite natural that the bamboo should be the
248
E.Ml'IUK.
necessary and indispensable accessory of every legal law will consequently prescription, and the Chinese
always assume a penal character, even when it has in view objects purely civil. Whenever a legislature is compelled to be lavish of punishments, it may certainly be affirmed that the social system in which it is in force is vicious, and the Penal Code of China is an illustration of the truth.
The punishments awarded by

cording to the
itself,
it are not graduated acmoral gravity of the crime, considered in but merely on the amount of damage that may
it.
be occasioned by
Thus the punishment
of theft is
proportional to the value of the object stolen, according to a scale drawn up expressly to that effect, unless the
theft
be accompanied by circumstances that bring
it
un-
legislation of China is based on the utilitarian principle, and this need not excite any surprise, for Chinese materialism does not con-
der some other head.
The penal
sider the act so
much
in a moral point of view, as with
respect to its consequences. The presence of this utilitarian principle in legislation usually indicates that the social bond is artificial, that
it
does not rest on the true principles that constitute
The immense population nationalities. of China, depraved by the absence of religious faith and moral education, wholly absorbed in material interests, would not subsist long as a nation, but would be speedily dismembered, were a system of legislation, founded
and preserve
on the principles of absolute justice and right, to be suddenly substituted for the strange one that now Among a nation of speculators and skepgoverns it. tics, like the Chinese, the social bond is found in the penal, not in the moral law, and the rattan and the bamboo form the sole guarantees for the fulfillment ot
duty.
249
And
even so
far the object
would not be
attained,
did not the Mandarins charged with the execution of the laws find in them the greatest possible latitude. This is what explains the vagueness and want of precision, so often observable in the
penal code of China.
Very
often the definition of a crime is so obscure
and
imperfect, that the law becomes completely elastic in the hands of the Mandarin. It really seems to be
made expressly
honest propensities
to favor their oppressive, shuffling, disfor in the absence of clear and ;
positive texts, they can always find means of bringing within the category of punishable offenses acts, which,
if
not perfectly innocent, are at
all
events such as can
never be subjected to positive laws.
Thus, for example, we find in vol. i., page 274, of the Penal Code, the following article : "When a trader, after having observed the nature of his neighbor's business, stocks his shop, and puts prices on his goods in such a manner that his neighbors can not sell theirs,
and thus obtains more than the customary advantage, he shall be punished with forty strokes of the bamboo."
What
tradesman could be out of the reach of the
vexations of the Mandarins, with such a clause as this always suspended over his head ? And here is another
still
more odious
"Whoever
shall
observe
a line
of conduct
that
offends propriety, and that is contrary to the spirit of the laws, even without any special infraction of any
shall be punished with forty blows, or eighty, if the impropriety be very great." These two clauses are sufficient to enable a Mandarin
of their enactments^
tion,
to subject the inhabitants of a whole district to extorand to accumulate for himself a handsome fortune
in a short time.
But
this is not
enough
the master-piece of Chinese
250

is
liMPIUK.
the vast system of responsibility, by which in some measure every subject of the Emperor becomes his relative or his neighbor, of for the conduct security Public functionaries are, as his superior or his inferior. we shall see, principally subject to this terrible responare by no means exempt sibility ; but private persons territorial Thus in each from it. division, composed of
legislation
a hundred families, there is a head, chosen by his fellow-citizens, along with six others, to watch over the
taxes, and the performance of other pubThis head is responsible for a crowd of offenses that may be committed within his district. When the lands are badly cultivated, the punishment he
payment of the
lic
duties.
may
incur varies from twenty to eighty strokes, according to the extent of the land in question. Here is a passage from the first chapter of the second
volume " The crime of high treason

:
is
that committed either
against the State, by overthrowing the established government, or endeavoring to do so, or against the Soverthe palace in which he resides, the eign, by destroying
temple where his family is worshiped, or the tombs in which the remains of his ancestors lie buried, or in enAll persons who shall be convicted deavoring to do so. of having committed these execrable crimes, or of having intended to commit them, shall suffer death by a slow and painful method, whether they be principals or accesAll the male relatives in the first degree of the sories.
persons convicted of the above-mentioned crimes ; the father, grandfather, and paternal uncles, as. well as their sons, grandsons, and sons of their uncles, without any
regard being had to their place of abode, or to any natural or accidental infirmities, shall be indiscriminately All persons who shall know others guilty beheaded.
of high treason, or individuals having intention to com-
251
mit such a crime, and who shall connive at the said crime, by not denouncing the authors of it, shall be beheaded."
This frightful kind of responsibility is as revolting to common-sense as to the feelings of a Christian but it is quite natural that it should be in constant and energetic
;
action in China.
When we
look at the case of a nation
composed of 300,000,000 of men, without any religious faith, and given up exclusively to the chances of speculation,
we may conceive that some other than ordinary methods have been found necessary to unite under the same dominion elements so rebellious, and maintain the
political
And
motion
yet
;
unity of these innumerable populations. all this rigor does not prevent political comon the contrary, the annals of this strange peo-
ple show that in the world.

sible to
China
is
the most revolutionary country

:
systems, in fact, it is imposfound any thing but a factitious kind of order the least breath is sufficient to compromise the solidity of an edifice so painfully, yet so badly, constructed ; but it shows of what the Chinese would have been capable if they had availed themselves of the light that Christianity has diffused so abundantly among the nations of the West. China presents, indeed, an astonishing spectacle ; and there is something profoundly mysterious in the ancient civilization which has been able to resist to
With such
this
day the flux and reflux of so many revolutions, and

from
total ruin, in spite of the instability
to save itself
foundation, the defective morality of its citizens, and the falsehood of the principles on which it acts.
of
its
which we have pointed
numerous imperfections Penal Code of China is\J still a remarkable monument of the human mind, and there may even be found in it some of the great princithe right of pardon granted ples of modern legislation
But,
notwithstanding
the
out, the
252

the
Sovereign, the regard to extenuating circumstances, the right of appeal, the respect for individual of magistrates liberty, guaranteed by the responsibility
to
charged with the repression of crime, and others, which serve to protect the people in some measure against the tyranny of the Mandarins. The science of jurisprudence does not exist in China,
and the
office
of advocate
is
unknown.
In some of
the edicts published by the Emperor, for the confirmation of sentences pronounced against great criminals, there is sometimes reference to decisions made in pre-
ceding analogous cases, but it is made only with the view of illustrating the particular interpretation of a text in the code. Such references to precedents can not be considered to constitute what is understood by jurisEvery magistrate charged with the adminisprudence. tration of the law interprets it in his own way, and by what he regards as the general spirit of the legislature ; but there is no special doctrine to secure them from any departure from it. Measures are taken, however, not only to enable the magistrates to understand perfectly the laws they are called on to apply, but also to diffuse a knowledge of
the code, as far as possible, among the people at large. All officers and persons in the employment of Govern-
ment
are ordered to
make
it
their particular
study
and
a special enactment of the code ordains, that at the end of every year, and in all localities, officers shall be ex-
amined upon
their
knowledge of the laws by
their re-
spective superiors ; and if their answers are not satisfactory, they are to be fined a month's pay, if they hold a
high office, or receive forty strokes of the bamboo, if All individuals, laborers, they are of inferior rank. artisans, and others, who, on occasion of their first
offense
(if
committed by accident, or through the
fault
253
of other persons) shall be able to explain the nature and object of the law affecting them, shall be pardoned and
released.
The Chinese Mandarins enjoy

imagined.
talent
considerable power, but
their position is not quite so brilliant as is
commonly
have, indeed, great facilities for the rapid acquirement of wealth ; and, if they are men of
They
may arrive pretty quickly at are never sure of- the morrow a but they high the denunciation of a rich of the or caprice Emperor, and powerful enemy, may at any time cause them to be
office
;
:
and capacity, they
degraded and sent into exile, or even put to death. Public employments are as much sought after in China as in Europe, or perhaps more so, if we may judge by the precautions taken to avoid solicitations and repress that feverish eagerness for office which has excited so much indignation among us in these latter
days.
These precautions are curious enough to make it worth while to glance at them. Who knows whether something of the kind may not be thought worthy of adoption in France ? The number of officers for each tribunal and for every department is fixed by law and whoever shall be appointed unnecessarily, over and above this number or shall receive a shall cause another to be so appointed hundred strokes of the bamboo, and an increase of punishment for every supernumerary officer whose nomination he shall have procured. Were such a law in force in our country, the ardor of suitors and the good-will of patrons would probably be a good deal cooled.
;
tinguished for
government officers, who are not diseminent services rendered to the State, shall have been recommended to the goodness of the
civil
When
Emperor as persons worthy of the highest honors, these
254
officers, and those who have recommended them, are to be sent to prison and beheaded. Addresses sent to the Emperor, in favor of any of the
are considered as indicating great officers of the State, the existence of traitorous machinations subversive of
government, and their authors, as well as the officers whom they concern, if they have been aware of the This excessive offense, are punishable with death. severity can not be intended merely to repress court attainment of high offices by ambiintrigues, and the
though incapable persons the law is principally anxious to guard against the slightest infringement of In so vast a population as the power of the Emperor. that of China, unrestrained by any moral or religious tie, the Sovereignty is naturally suspicious, and tremtious
;
bles, in
who
some measure, before those great functionaries, are the depositaries of such a portion of its power as would permit them, if they dared, to shake off its
The yoke, and compromise the safety of the throne. law of China is, therefore, immoderately severe toward the slightest offense indicative of want of due respect It is forbidden, under penalty of for the Emperor.
name
it
eighty strokes of the bamboo, to employ the individual of his Majesty in any address, or to make use of
in instructing the people, or, under pain of a hundred strokes, to assume it one's self or bestow it on others.
The bamboo also takes cognizance of the crime of throwing a stone, or any other projectile, against any of the
Imperial residences.
The laws which regulate the conduct of the public functionaries in China, although very severe, are somewhat tempered by forms having a certain resemblance
to
When
what in France is called the Constitutional guarantee. an officer of the government, either at court or in the provinces, commits any offense against the laws,
255
whether in his public or private capacity, his superior, in all important cases, submits a circumstantial account of the affair to the Emperor, and the culprit can not be brought to trial without the express sanction of his
Majesty; privileged persons can only be pursued for offenses against the law upon the positive order of the Emperor, to whom all proceedings are to be referred.
But
this privilege ceases when the crime partakes of the nature of treason; these crimes are, "rebellion, dis-
loyalty,
desertion,
parricide,
massacre,
sacrilege,
imi.
piety, discord, insurbordination,

p. 27.)
and
incest."
{Vol.
It is especially with regard to the public functionaries that the system of penal responsibility of which we have
spoken above, is most energetically applied. Every time that a tribunal or a body of official persons have
incurred guilt by pronouncing erroneous decisions, or such as being either too mild or too severe, are contrary to the laws, or who have even become chargeable with faults of negligence, the registrar is considered as the
principal author of the crime ; all the other participators are punished, but with less severity in diminishing pro-
portion
up
to the president,
all.
whose punishment
is
the
slightest of
In China, the lower the

committed
if
officer,
sibility; for it is said the crime
the higher the responwould not have been
he had refused his assistance.
Thus the
subalterns are liable to the most terrible punishments if they afford their concurrence in an illegal act, and to
the resentment of their superiors if they refuse
it.
Their
position would therefore become an intolerable one, but that in China official persons are never afraid of any thing the law can menace them with, as they always trust to finding some way of wriggling out of it. Another remarkable feature of the laws on this sub-
256
that they Tegard an erroneous sentence project, is nounced by any of the tribunals as a crime. It is somewhat curious to European ideas to see a judge whipped for having made a mistake ; and in China not only is a tribunal punishable for a wrong decision on a cause with the facts of which it may be presumed to be well acquainted, but even when a superior tribunal confirms the erroneous sentence of an inferior, or in the reverse case when a cause has been sent from the superior
to the inferior court.
far,
responsibility of the inferior officers is carried so that there are cases in which they would be put to If the Imperial death for having sealed a letter badly.
seal is awkwardly placed, or turned upside down, all the officers responsible for affixing it are to receive eighty strokes, and if the person to whom the document is sent
The
should on this account

ticity,
feel
any doubts of
it
its
authen-
and
hesitate to execute the orders
contains,
failed,
and
the
that
any military operation should thus have
clerk in the office is to be put to death. The civil capacity of functionaries is restrained within
certain limits,
and
this is perhaps one of the wisest ar-
rangements of the Chinese law. Not only all high officers of government, but even their clerks and registrars,
are forbidden to hold land in the district under their
control.
No
government
officer in
towns of the
first,
second, or third order, may take a wife within the limits of their jurisdiction, under pain of eighty strokes of the bamboo, or a hundred if her father or mother have a
and he is to undergo the same he marry such a woman to his son, punishment or brother, grandson, nephew.
suit before the courts,
if
ple.
The penal scale established by the code is very simThe most ordinary punishments are the Cangue, and the bamboo applied with the large or small end
;

the strokes varying in
257
number up
often
to a hundred.
combined with temporary or perpetual banishment, and with the brand. The punishment of death is executed by strangulation or
is
number above sixty
and there
this
decapitation, according to the gravity of the offense; is also for great crimes the "slow and painful
death," or the torture of the knife, which is inflicted in manner The executioner puts his hand into a cov:
ered basket in which are a
number
of knives,
marked
with the names of various limbs and parts of the body, and drawing out one at random, he cuts off the part indicated from the body of the victim. The relatives generally endeavor in such cases to shorten the unfortunate creature's sufferings, by giving money to the executioner
that he
to
may find as soon as possible the knife destined be plunged into the heart. The Chinese law, notwithstanding tliese atrocious severities adopted with a view to the repression of crime, has some features not altogether unworthy of a modern There is especially a system of attenuating circode. cumstances, founded on more moral bases than in the system pursued in France. With us the estimate of the value of such circumstances is left to the consideration of a jury, which has no other power than simply to In China the declare that such circumstances exist. law itself foresees certain facts, which, when they are confirmed, involve a diminution of punishment or some1
times
its entire
remission.
for instance, of some issues a general act of grace,
In certain cases, on occasion,

great event, the
Emperor
which has the

ever,
This act, howeffect of a full pardon. does not extend to those who have committed
treasonable offenses, or some others which are specified. The benefits of this amnesty extend to all who have
committed offenses through inadvertence, or who are
268

them on account merely of
their legal
implicated in
be responsibility ; but special pardons may without criminal exception. every Consideration for the relatives is often the to a diminution of the punishment of the have legally merited death; but in such
received
by
inducement
guilty,
who
cases there
sixteen, or parents beyond seventy or particularly iniirm, and the crime must be of such a nature that it could be brought under the operation of an act of grace ; the case is then referred to
must be children under
If the Emperor, who gives the decision respecting it. the culprit has merited banishment, he will receive
instead a hundred strokes of the bamboo,

fine.
and pay a
Age and
even
for the culprit himself,
infirmity will sometimes obtain indulgence but in that case an ex-
planatory memorial must be addressed to the Emperor. It is often sufficient if the age or infirmity exist at the
time of
trial,
even though they
may
not have existed at
the epoch of the crime.
The culprit who voluntarily surrenders to the magistrate without the crime having been otherwise discovered
obtains a pardon, saving some civil reparation ; and confession always obtains a reduction of punishment ;
some cases, specially provided for, indeed, a complete pardon, saving always, as before, the civil reparation. "This appears judicious, and in this respect the
in
Chinese are perhaps in advance of other nations. In France a confession will always obtain a reduction of
punishment through a declaration of extenuating circumstunces ; but would it not be better that the law itself
should provide for this reduction, which, being thus a matter of right, would often induce the guilty to make
confessions, from the certainty of obtaining an amelioration of his lot ?
259
The criminal who gives himself up, and at the same lime causes the arrest of an accomplice, equally or more guilty than himself, has, in China, a right to a
pardon.
The Chinese law, like that of France, provides certain cases of legal excuse. Thus it is forbidden to enter an inhabited house by night without due authority ; and if
the master of
at
it kill any one in the attempt to do this an improper hour, he is not punishable. It is regarded as an act of legitimate self-defense. A husband who kills an adulterous wife or her paramour is also held
blameless.
The treatment
of culprits in prison, and the
mode
in
which they are to undergo their punishment, is subject and when a magistrate commits to minute regulation offenders to prison, and neglects to take with respect to them the measures of rigor prescribed by the law, he is
;
punished with a number of strokes of the bamboo, proportioned to the crimes which the said offenders have
committed.
It
happens therefore sometimes, as
may be
supposed, that a magistrate, rather than expose himself to the bamboo, conducts himself toward his prisoners
with an atrocious cruelty that we could not have believed if we had not witnessed it. One day, when we were passing along the road leadan officer ing to Pekin, we met a party of soldiers, with at their head, escorting a number of carts, in which were literally piled up a crowd of Chinese, who were uttering
horrible cries.
As we
of human
beings to pass,
stopped to allow these cart-loads we were seized with horror on
nailed perceiving that these unfortunate creatures were satellite whom of the cart. the hand the to by planks
we
"We've interrogated, replied, with frightful coolness: been routing out a nest of thieves in a neighboring vil-
260
EMl'IUE.
got a good many of them, and as we liadn't lagc. brought chains enough, we Avere obliged to contrive
nailed
We
some way to prevent their escaping. them by the hand."
So you
see
we
"But do
not you think there

tell ?
may be some
innocent
among them ?" " Who can
We are taking
there are
They have
not been tried yet.
and by-and-by, if men innocent them, they will be any among The fellow seemed to separated from the thieves." think the thing quite a matter of course, and was even
them
to the tribunal,
little
proud of the contrivance.
Perhaps, what was most hideous of all in this dreadful spectacle, was the mocking hilarity of the soldiers,
who were
amusement the
pointing out to one another with an air of contortions and grimaces of the miser-
agony of pain. If a people can exhibit such barbarity as this in quiet and peaceable times, it may be imagined of what excesses they are capable under the excitement of revolution and civil war.
able creatures in their
tions
In the provinces now in insurrection horrible abominamust be passing. The Penal Code concerns itself greatly, as may be
supposed, in the organization of the family, which, in Cliina, is a political as well as social institution ; but
great as is the talk about filial piety, it is certain that there is much less real harmony and affection in Chinese
families than
among Europeans.
The
reason
is
obvi-
China the law and the bamboo, not duty and religion, regulate filial regard, and endeavor to maintain the ties of family by artificial means. In the beginning, doubtless, the laws passed on this subject were the expression of a true and lively feeling, but the feeling has The fear of tho passed away, and the law remains.
ous
;
in
261
cangue and the rattan has taken the place of filial love, and the attachment of children to their parents is little more than an affair of habit. Marriage, which forms the basis of domestic life, has
been carefully and minutely regulated by Chinese legislation ; and it is deeply impressed with the character of the domestic tyranny that is found in the manners of all nations placed out of the influence of Christianity. In of the rites and ceremonies observed in the speaking celebration of marriage, we have alluded to the despotic
authority of parents over their children; thus it is not the future wedded pair, but their respective families who
make the first advances, fix the wedding presents, arAll these prerange the articles of the contract, etc. liminaries are adjusted through the intervention of third
persons, who serve as go-betweens, and haggle about the price of the marriageable merchandise. When the
If either bargain is concluded, the parties are affianced. afterward refuse to the its chief is contract, family ratify condemned to receive fifty strokes with the bamboo, and
In cases where the marriage is ordered to take place. there has been no contract, the acceptance of the presents is considered as sufficient evidence of the consent of the
contracting parties. It is thus easy to conclude a marriage without at all consulting the persons most interested, but this is only
first marriage. The father of a family can not compel a son who has become a widower to marry a second time, under penalty of eighty strokes of the
the case with the
bamboo. If between the betrothal and the marriage the relations of the bride promise her hand to another, the head
of the family receives seventy strokes, or eighty, if she
had been already presented and approved. He who should accept a promise of marriage, knowing that ne-
262
begun with another, would also receive in cases where either party can be but blows ; eighty proved to have been guilty of theft or adultery, the congotiations were
tract
becomes null and void.

points out certain circumstances as an alliance. There are ab-
The Chinese law
obstacles to the formation of
solute hindrances, relative hindrances, or
mere retarda-
tory obstacles. It is forbidden to marry during the time fixed by law for the mourning for a father, a mother, or
a husband.
stances
is
marriage contracted under these circumnot only declared null, but punished by a hundred strokes of the bamboo.
The marriage contracted during the mourning for a grandfather or grandmother, an uncle or an aunt, an elder brother or elder sister, remains valid,* but is
widow punished, nevertheless, by eighty blows. who has received from the Emperor any distinction of
rank during the life of her husband, is punished by a. hundred strokes if she marry again, besides being de> graded from her rank, and separated from her new hus^
band.f
Marriages contracted between persons bearing the same family name, with any one concealing himself on account of some crime, or with actors or musicians, are in themselves null and void, and the delinquents are punished by a certain number of strokes of the bamboo. One of the consequences of the manner in which marriages are made in China is the divorce, not merely for determinate causes, but by mutual consent. It seems natural enough that persons who naveHbeen married
without being consulted, should have at least the permission to separate if they can not agree. The husband
may
repudiate his lawful wife for the following causes,

I. p.
* Vol.
188.
f Vol.
I. p.
189.

some of which appear rather whimsical:
sterility,
263
im-
morality, contempt of the husband's father and mother, propensity to slander or to theft, a jealous temper, or habitual ill-health.
is placed by the law of China in the of great crimes, is nothing but the failure in It is defined in the Code in the followfamily duty.
Impiety, which
class
" ing manner : Impiety is the failure in respect and care for those to whom you owe your being, from whom
you have had your education, and by whom you

protected.
It is also
are
against your mourning for them, and not

ries."*
impious to institute a law-suit near relations, to insult them, not to wear

to respect their
memo-
The punishments
are very severe.
incurred
by
this crime of impiety
Striking an elder relative is punished with death, and also bearing false witness against him,
or even addressing abusive words to him, if he have* heard the words, and complain of them. Parricides are the and should they the torture of to knife, subjected
die in prison, their dead bodies are to undergo the mutilation.
The law fixes the kind and duration of mourning which every one is to wear on the death of a member of his family, and should any one receive news of the
death of his father or mother, or a wife of her husband, without immediately putting on mourning, he is punThe ishable by sixty blows, and a year of banishment.
same punishment is to be inflicted for leaving off the mourning before the appointed time, or for taking part during its continuance, in any rejoicings. Every government officer on receiving intelligence of this nature, must immediately cease the exercise of his He must abstain from functions, and put on mourning.
* Vol.
I. p.
23.
264
all public duty during the whole period ; and if, with a view to avoid such suspension, he should falsely represent the deceased person to have been a more distant relation, he shall suffer the punishment of a hundred
blows, and the forfeiture of his place, besides being deMilclared incapable of ever holding any for the future.
commanders, or persons holding important civil a great distance from the Court, are, however, this law, and the line of conduct they are from exempt to observe on such occasions is to be determined by the
itary
offices at
express orders of the Emperor.* It will be seen by these details, that the
filial piety of the Chinese has need of the continual stimulus of the
bamboo.
Among the ritual laws, there are some other rather curious provisions : "All that concerns the science of the stars, as the sun, the moon, the five planets, the twentysight principal constellations, and others, as well as
eclipses, meteors, comets, and other celestial appearances, shall be observed by the officers composing the astro-
nomical council of Pekin.
If the said officers neglect to
observe exactly the said appearances, and to mark their time in order to render an account of them to his Majesty
the Emperor, they shall be punished
by
sixty blows of
the bamboo."
magicians, sorcerers, and fortune-telhouses of the civil and military offithe frequent cers of government, under pretext of announcing the
lers, to
Here is another arrangement, not " It is forbidden to
entirely injudicious :
calamities that
menace the
for
nation, or the fortunate events
; they are to have five hundred strokes for every one of their predictions." This law does not, however, hinder them from casting the horoscopes of private individuals who may apply to them,
that
may
be in store
it
* Vol.
I. p.
310, 311.
265
nor from prognosticating births, nor consulting the stars

in the accustomed manner.
The Chinese, notwithstanding their complete indifference in matters of religion, have very precise and severe laws relating to the official worship, and all negligence,
imperfection, or irregularity in the observance of the
is repressed by the bamboo, applied equally to the delinquent and to the "master of the ceremonies,"
rites,
is presumed to have been in fault. Thus, when the government officer charged with the education of the sacred pigs, which are fattened in the pagodas for solemn sacrifices, does not feed them in the manner prescribed by law, so that any one of them becomes indisposed, or thin, the officer is to receive forty strokes of the bamboo, and so many more for every ad-
whose vigilance
ditional sick pig.
The
health of the swinish multitude

affair ;
becomes, therefore, a very important
tom of
illness
among them
is
enough
to
and a sympthrow a whole
pagoda into consternation.
The Bonzes, as well as the Tao-sse, or Doctors of Reason, are regarded by the law of China as civilly
dead.
They
are forbidden to visit their fathers
and
dead ancestors, or, which is still more remarkable, to wear mourning for any of them under pain of receiving a hundred stripes. The penal code of China, of which we have endeavored here to give a slight sketch, often enters into the most minute details concerning points with which European
mothers, to sacrifice to their
of concerning themselves ; legislators would never but in examining some of the countless numbers of its
think
prescriptions and regulations, we have more than once had occasion to remark that the practice of the people
was by no means
in accordance with them.
Authority
having lost the strength and energy that it once had, the people live pretty much as they please, without
VOL.
II.
266
troubling themselves about the code and its regulations. The Mandarins exercise their power according to their
own
caprice,
and
in the most* serious affairs,
when
the
law, perhaps, directs them to torture a prisoner to obtain a confession, or even to inflict the punishment of death,
they pay no attention to the law unless it suits them to do so. Their own pleasure forms their only rule. In the summer of 1849, we were crossing the prov-
One evening we ince of Chan-toung to go to Pekin. were proceeding in a hired cart along the Imperial road, which is bordered by great trees. While the driver, seated upon one of the shafts of the vehicle, was occupied in smoking his pipe and whipping his lean mules, our eyes wandered carelessly over a dull and monoton-
ous plain, that stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach.
Presently, the Chinese Phaeton, after Raving shaken the ashes out of his pipe, jumped down, and began
looking to the right and
left,
like a
man who
is
seek-
He soon came running back, and, ing for something. pointing to the tops of some trees at the road-side, said,
"Look
there!"
We
raised our eyes in the direction in
which he was pointing with the handle of his whip, and perceived numerous small cages suspended to the branches of the trees, and looking like some apparatus " What is that ?" said we. " Look for
bird-catching. well," he replied,
"and you
will soon
know."
The
cart
drove on, and soon, shuddering, we beheld in each of about fifty cages, coarsely made with sticks of bamboo, a human head. Almost all were in a state of putrefacSome of the tion, and the features hideously distorted.
by
cages were broken, and the heads hung in them only the beards or the hair ; from others the heads had
fallen out altogether,
We could not long endure this
and lay at the foot of the

disgusting sight.
trees.
267
As we
district
had formerly been
drove away, the driver related to us that this infested by bands of thieves,
the whole country round, and yet con-
who ravaged
trived to escape the pursuit of the Mandarins. At the this a of ExCommissioner year, however, beginning
traordinary had been sent from Pekin, with a considerable armed force, and one day in a certain village he had
seized almost the whole gang, and, without waiting for any authority from the Emperor, had had them all be-
headed, and their heads for a terror to evil doers.
hung
to the trees
on the road
This
trict.
terrible execution
had alarmed
the, whole dis-
"I would take good care,"
said our driver, "never

fear
to pass this
way
said
at night."
"Why?"
we; "there can hardly be much
of robbers just now." "No; but because,
when
it is
dark, those heads all
utter frightful vociferations.
out from
We
for
can hear them cry the villages round." were not at all surprised that our driver should
all
You
put faith in this story, for the mere sight of these hideous cages affected our imaginations so that we could not
days get rid of the impression.
CHAPTER
VIII.
Government Couriers Storm Departure from Kouang-tsi-hien Mode of Epistolary Correspondence Grand Festival at Hoang-meiIdea we ought to have of the Fire-works Chinese Music hien Music of the Ancient Chinese Imperial Koad to Pekin The Roads Halt upon the Borders of Lake Pouyang Embarkation in China Kakkerlacs on board the Junk Glance over the Province of Hou-pe'
Details conAgriculture in China Imperial Festival of Labor cerning Agriculture Agricultural Productions -The Bamboo The Water Lily Imperial Ilice Observant Character of the Chinese Classification of Corn What becomes of the Swallows during WinMethod of hindering Manner of making a Cat tell the Time ter Asses from Braying.
JUST as we were about to leave Kouang-tsi-hien, we received a visit from the prefect of the town, whom we were happy to have an opportunity of thanking for the
manner in which we had been treated. We asked what had become of the robber-chief. "Yesterday," said he, "I was employed the whole day in interrogating him, and that was why I did not come to pay my respects to you. I sat also during a
part of the night without being able to succeed in makThat is just like ing him denounce his accomplices.
the kouan-kouen
tortures
ered,
; they stand by each other, even through and death. In a few days, when he has recovand that the frenzy caused by the torture has dis-
appeared, I will send
him
necessary documents connected with his

it.
off to the capital, with the The case.
superior tribunals of Ou-tchang-fou will then undertake The Ngan-tcha-sse, ' Inspector of Crimes,' will en-
deavor to
succeed."
make him
speak, but I do not think he will
269
It is customary for the judge, after having flagellated a prisoner till he is covered with blood, and one mass of bruises, to have remedies applied to restore his
strength, so as to be able to torture him again without danger of killing him ; and these remedies are said
to be so efficacious, that the torture can often be repeat-
ed
daily.
About an hour after we had quitted Kouang-tsi-hien, the sky became covered with clouds, a violent clap of
rain
thunder broke over our heads, and enormous drops of feared for a time that we were began to fall.
We
have a tremendous storm, and the people of our caravan looked about anxiously in all directions for a place of refuge. The country we were traversing was wild and sterile, and the habitations were so few that we could not just then see any, except, at a very great distance, in a large village that lay quite away from the road, and that we could only have reached by crossing
going to
the
fields.
Our Weeping Willow was in extreme perplexity, and lie came every moment to our palanquins to ask what was to be done. "This is a most vexatious circumstance!" said he.
very," we replied ; "we are going to have bad weather, it seems." " In that case what do you propose to do ?"
" Yes,
" Do what can we do ? It's not easy to help it." " But if the storm comes " "Well, we must submit as well as we can be resigned; we do not see what else can be done."
!
But our conductor did not at all relish the idea of resreturned to the charge, imaginignation, and continually if we liked, we could find some means that evidently, ing, of conjuring the storm, or procuring shelter. He seemed
to think that
men
like
us ought not to have been embar-
270
rassed about such a thing as that. Fortunately for us, there was no. storm after all; but after the few large
heavy drops, the rain began to fall quietly and regularly. It continued to do so the whole day, and no one experi-
On the contrary, the enced the smallest inconvenience. had been which before suffocating, became atmosphere, The mud was not immodfresh. cool and deliciously
we were on a sandy soil, and one that was so dry and thirsty, that it drank in with avidity all the The palanquin-bearers water that fell from the sky.
erate, as
appeared quite delighted when they felt the rain running down their backs, and thus obtained so easily the pleasure of a prolonged bath
ter
;
they burst into peals of laugh;
and might and main seemed to make a mere sport of their toilsome vocation. The horseman and pedestrians were not less pleased ; but, with bare heads, and for their entire clothing a thin
they sang with
all their
pair of drawers, they reveled with delight in the cool fresh rain. really envied them, but the Rites imperatively required that we should remain shut up in
We
our palanquins.
Toward noon we were joined by two
travelers,
with
peaked rattan caps, a three-fold cotton girdle, and an enormous varnished box, worn in a cross-belt ; on their
feet
they had sandals, fastened with leathern thongs. They walked on in silence, swinging their arms, with a long and uniform step, but with no appearance of haste. Their eyes were constantly fixed on the ground,
and they scarcely turned their heads when they passed through the middle of our caravan. In a few minutes they were far from us, and soon after quite out of sight. These two men were government couriers, going to Pekin
the Imperial road, and the varnished boxes on backs contained dispatches from the Administration of Ou-tchang-fou. The Chinese government em-
by
their

ploys couriers on foot and on horseback, are performed with tolerable regularity ;
271
whose
services
means by made acquainted with what is passing in the provinces, and among the tributary nations. Relays of
this
it is
horses are kept at certain distances all along the principal roads, but on ordinary occasions they do not go
faster than a trot.
demands more
If the intelligence to be conveyed celerity, the estafettes gallop day and
night, or sometimes employ pedestrian couriers, whose Before pace is said to be faster than that of a horse.
being accepted to fill this office, these men go through a long course "of preparatory training, by making forced marches, loaded with a number of bags filled with sand, which are hung about their limbs, and the quantity of
which they increase every day. By degrees they acand when afterward quire great strength and agility to their legs are accusdiminish the which they weight are to walk for able tomed, they days together without couriers never These appear hurried you difficulty. would say they were walking at an ordinary pace, and
;
;
yet they get along with extraordinary rapidity. There is no such thing in China as a post for the use of the public; and when you wish to send letters you
trust to the complaisance of some traveler, or send a messenger at your own expense, which is, of course, a very costly method. Accidents of various kinds also happen to the messengers on the road and often, after all the expense you have been at, your letters go astray. The missionaries, who are accustomed to the prodigious
must
correspondence that exists in Europe, find it hard to endure the tediousness of these communivery cations. Fifty days suffice to bring a letter from Paris to Canton; but from Canton to Pekin takes three months. The Chinese do not suffer much from this state of
facility of
272

for
having scarcely any domestic affections, feel the need of corresponding with their relations and friends. Looking at every thing only on the positive and material side, they have no idea of the
things;
they do not
tender relations
by which two
hearts delight to
draw
near in intimate correspondence, and communicate their joys and their sorrows. They know nothing of the
lively emotions that the mere sight ~f a known handwriting can awaken ; their hands never tremble as they
they do not often settle even by writing, but prefer going to the place and treating vivd voce. It must not be supposed, however, that the Chinese
break the seal of a
letter
;
their commercial affairs
do not frequently write letters ; on the contrary, they address missives to each other on all occasions ; but
there is never
any thing friendly and

to
confidential in
them.
crated
They are mere commonplace by custom, .and might be nont
formalities conse-
any other per-
they are addressed. one should If, therefore, any happen to open and read a letter addressed to any one else, provided he after-
son, as well as the one to
whom
ward communicate
its
contents to the lawful owner of
the epistle, it is a mere trifle, and no offense. If you sec any one writing and feel at all 'curious, you have
only to lean over his shoulder, and coolly read the characters he is tracing ; nobody minds doing that.
The
first
year of our residence in China, a fact of
which we were witnesses furnished us with the means of estimating the importance and value of a letter in this We were staying at the time with a literary country. a native of Pekin, who had left h;s family eight man,
years before to take the office of schoolmaster in one of the towns of the south. Many conversations that we
had had with this Chinese had led us to suppose that he was not, quite of so cold and insensible a nature as most

of his countrymen
:
273
manners were kind, and he had more warmth of heart than is common here. One day we were on the point of sending off a messenger to Pekin, and we asked him whether he would not like to take the opportunity of
his
the appearance of possessing
" Oh, yes ; I think sidering for a moment he said, I should write a letter to old mother ; I have
sending something to his family or friends.
After con-
my
heard nothing of her for four years, and she does not know where I am. Since there is such a good opportunity
lines."
it
would not be amiss
if
I were to write a few
thought his filial piety did not seem of a very fervent complexion but we merely told him that he had
;
We
" you shall have the letter in a few minutes," and plied ; he called to one of his pupils, who was singing out his classical lesson in the next room probably some fiiie
passage out of Confucius upon the love that children owe to their parents. The pupil presented himself with
the proper air of demure modesty. " Interrupt your lesson for a moment," said the master
;
better, in that case, write immediately, as the messenger was going off that evening. " Directly, directly," he re-
" take your
mother.
But don't
pencil, lose
and write
me
for
a letter to
my
is
any time,
the courier
Here, take this sheet of paper" and the pupil accordingly took the paper, and set about writing to his master's mother.
going directly.
write their letters upon fancy which are stamped, in red and blue, figures paper upon of birds, flowers, butterflies, and mythological person;
The Chinese mostly
ages.
The Chinese
is
black,
character being always of a fine not lost amidst these fantastic ornaments.
When the pupil had left the room with his sheet of ornamented paper, we asked the schoolmaster whether
M*
274
his mother. "Not in the least," he an" I don't think he knew whether she was liv" * ing or had already saluted the world.' " In that You did case, how can he write the letter ? not even tell him what he was to say." " Don't he know For more quite well what to say ? than a year he has been studying literary composition, and he is acquainted with a number of elegant formulas. Do you think he does not know perfectly well how a son ought to write to his mother ?" We had nothing to reply to this ; but we understood immediately the difference between filial piety, as it is felt and practiced in China, and as it is so magnificently described and commented on in their books. The pupil, obedient to his master's orders, lost no time. He returned soon afterward, with his letter in an elegant envelope, which he had even had the politeness to seal all ready, so that this admirable son did not even give himself the trouble to read the unctuous expressions of tenderness and respect that he had addressed to No doubt he had known them by heart a his mother. and had himself taught them to the pupil. while, long He wished, however, to write the address with his own hand ; which appeared to us rather superfluous, for the letter would have done just as well for any other mother in the Celestial Empire as for the one to whom it was addressed, and any other would doubtless have felt as
this lad
knew
swered.
much
traveled the whole day through the fresh pourand arrived in the evening at Hoang-mei-hien, rain, ing a town of the third order, situated on the banks of a
We
satisfaction in the receipt of
it.
not far from the Imperial road. The proximity of the lake Pou-yang, the Blue River, and the road to Pekin, gives a great commercial activity to this town, and it receives all the merchandise sent from the
little river,

north or south of the Empire, mart of Han-keou.
ince of
for
275
the great central
Hoang-mei-hien was to be our last stage in the provHou-pe ; and we were received in it with a magnificence that we had been little accustomed to since we had left the province of Sse-tchouen. It might have been thought that the Mandarins of this town intended to make us forget the annoyances we had experi&iced for the previous month. The communal palace, in which we were lodged, was
tastefully fitted up,
and besides the hangings of
rich
silk, the lanterns, and the sentences suspended on the walls, there were vases of flowers that shed a deli-
red
cious perfume through the apartments. The ceremonial of visiting etiquette

all its
;
was observed
in
there seemed no end of our bows, and of rigor the abundant outpouring of fine hollow words ; and at
last, to
crown all, we were treated at night to a serenade and a brilliant display of fire-works. These were composed first of a prodigious quantity of crackers, suspended in large bunches on bamboo poles, their dry and noisy detonations never ceasing for a single moment. This perpetual cracking noise was only interrupted by the explosion of a -sort of bombshell that went off very suddenly, and with great noise but the grandest pieces were placed at the angles of the court, where dragons and other fabulous beasts vomited fire at every pore. There were rockets of various colors, that shot into the air with splendid effect, and
;
a kind of wheel, called by the Chinese "a flying It has merely to sun," which pleased us most of all. be put on a large plate, and placed on the ground; the
also,
wheel
then kindled, and immediately it begins to turn rapidly, throwing out bluish flames in all directions, and then suddenly springing into the air, it rushes to an imis
27C

height,
and lets fall a fiery rain of all sorts of and varied colors. The Chinese have always "been passionately fond of powder, of which they knew the use long before the
mense
brilliant
Europeans, but their taste is less decided for the kind made use of in war than for the milder sort employed for fire-works. They were fire-work makers before they Avcre artillerists, and they have remained faithful to their first inclinations, liking squibs and crackers a great deal better than cannon.
In
acter
all their festivals
and solemnities of whatever char-
births, marriages, funerals, meetings of friends, theatrical representations, receptions of Mandarins and
they are sure to manage somehow or other great men In the towns and villages you to bring in fire-works.
hear them popping and cracking at almost every hour of the night and day, so that one might take the whole
We
Chinese Empire for one great pyrotechnic establishment. have said that in the poorest hovels, where the peo-
ple have scarcely the necessaries of life, you are always sure to find melon seeds, and we might have added also
that fire-works are seldom wanting.
Of Chinese music, we can not speak so favorably as It is probable that for of their pyrotechnic displays. this grand evening's entertainments, all the most distinguished artists of- Hoang-mei-hien had been collected, and the orchestra was certainly considerable, and the
instruments in great variety.
violins, flutes,
There were hautboys, and other both wind and stringed instruments of such whimsical forms that we can not attempt to give any description of them. Chinese music, it is true, has a certain softness and
very much
like ours,
melancholy in its tones, that pleases you pretty well at first, but it is so intolerably monotonous, that if prolonged it becomes exceedingly irritating to the nerves.
JOUKNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIKE.
iff
The Chinese have no semi-tones in their scale ; indeed, one might suppose they merely blew into their instruments, or twanged their strings at random, from the inhowever, it appears they have spiration of the moment
;
notes,
and though
their compositions are doubtless not
of
much
scientific value,
you do sometimes hear some-
thing like simple melodies in them, such as are heard in the chants of savages, and which are more or less agreeable.
European books concerning China, and also the works of the Chinese themselves, might lead you to suppose they attached great importance to music, even to the point of regarding it as an essential element in good
government and the happiness of the people.
king, or
Book
it
of Music,
The Yowas counted among the sacred
books, but
was
lost in the great fire ordered
by
the
Emperor Tsing-che-hoang-ti. Confucius speaks of this canonical book with the greatest respect, and deplores the loss of such a precious monument of antiquity. The esteem and veneration professed in ancient times for "the rites and music," might lead us to suppose that before the introduction of the worship of Buddha and
Lao-tze these words designated the primitive religion of the Chinese, of whose doctrines little is known, but which must have been based on the great traditions
The Yo-king is supposed to confided to humanity. have been a collection of hymns and prayers, chanted in the sacrifices and other religious solemnities, and containing also religious doctrine and instruction, and the Book of Rites is thought to have formed its complement.
This opinion, that in the early ages of China, " music and the rites" was an expression for religion might be confirmed by many passages from the annals and canonIn the Li-ki, for instance, you find these ical books.
278
words: "Music is the expression of the union of earth and heaven. With music and ceremonies nothing in Music acts upon the interior of the Empire is difficult. with the spirit. Its it connection into and man, brings
the passions ; it teaches principal end is to regulate fathers and children, princes and subjects, husbands and The sage finds in music wives, their reciprocal duties. the rules of his conduct."
The
ther,
even to declaring that

is
philosophers of antiquity sometimes go still furit is the chief support of
authority, the that reference
bond of the laws,
etc.
and
it is
evident
then made to the religious instruction The Annals, and all ancontained in the "Yo-king." cient writings, agree in saying that music was, in the
early ages, the object of the continual meditations of sages, and of the care of government.
It is related that Chun, the founder of the Chinese monarchy, inquired every where, when he visited different parts of the Empire, whether they had changed noWe can hardly suppose the question thing in music. was merely of singing and notation. According to the school of Confucius, ceremonies and music are the most prompt and efficacious methods for reforming manners, and rendering the State prosperous. " Under the first dynasties," says a famous Chinese moralist, "the government had perfect unity, the ceremonies and music embraced the whole Empire." After the first dynasties,
there came divisions into the government, and the ceremonies and music became only an empty name withThe ancient poets call music the echo of out reality. the mistress and mother of virtue, the maniwisdom,
festation of the laws of heaven.
Its purpose is to
make
known
man
able,
the Chan-ty, "the sovereign Lord," and to lead toward him. All these sayings are very remark-
and indicate evidently that among the ancient Chi-

nese,
279
music was the expression of religious worship paid it is, therefore, easy to understand the great importance attached to it ; but at present, as the above-quoted philosopher, Yang-siou, remarks, music, that is to say, religion is only an empty name withto the Divinity
;
out reality.
of Hoang-mei-hien seemed determined to grand style, and to keep it up to the last. The next morning, just as we were about to set off, the prefect and the principal functionaries presented themselves, and we were informed that an addition of thirty soldiers, and two military Mandarins, was to be made to our escort. These heroes were indeed already drawn up in the court-yard, at least some were huddled in a corner, others crouched on the ground, and some were
treat us in
The town
leaning against the wall, smoking or fanning themselves. Their costume was tolerably uniform, and the ensign was standing in a most irreproachable attitude, and
seemed to
feel all
the sublimity of his
office.
He
held
gravely in both hands a long bamboo pole, on the top of which floated a triangular flag of a red color, inscribed on one side with the words " Militia of
Hoang-
mei-hien," and on the other with "Bravery!" As we crossed the court, accompanied by the authorities of
the town,
we were
saluted
by more
fire-works ;
we really
hardly understood such a display of magnificent courAn expression made use of by the prefect, howtesy. an explanation of these unaccustomed honafforded ever,
ors.
At
the
moment when we were
entering our palan-
having long and pompously thanked him for all his politeness, "You see," said he, "that you have nowhere been treated with more attention than in the " Than in the town of Hoangprovince of Hou-pe." mei-hien," we replied, smiling; and with this amendment we entered the palanquins, and were carried away
quins, after
280
avenue through an immense crowd, that thronged every

to the
communal
all
palace.
us this kind of probability the order to give ovation at Hoang-mei-hien had proceeded from the palace of the Governor of Ou-tchang-fou. They knew very
In
for we had expressed our opinion often enough, that we had not been satisfied and loudly enough with the treatment we had generally received in Houpe. They were not sure that our complaints on this suband they ject might not lead to vexatious consequences, wished, before allowing us to enter the next province,
well
to do something to give us a pleasant recollection of
Hou-pe.
On
leaving this town
rection of our route.
we completely changed the Our course from the frontier
di-
of
Thibet to Canton described two sides of a triangle, of
which Hoang-mei-hien occupies the apex. One side of this triangle runs from east to west, and the other from north to south. We met on this road a great number of travelers, among whom it was easy for us to distinguish the men of the north from their southern brethren. The latter might be known by their pale and somewhat effeminate but refined and intelligent faces, as well as by their more elegant costume ; they were besides more talkative and playful we often heard them warbling some song, though in a harsh nasal, voice, and teasing each other with jokes and The heat was scorching, but they seemed very puns. little inconvenienced by it. The northmen, on the contrary, were suffocated by the heat and dripping with perspiration. They spoke little and sung still less, and
;
only endeavored to refresh themselves by continual chewing of bits of areca nut. Their swarthy complexions, thick mustaches, more vigorous limbs, and especially their sonorous language, all bristling with rough

aspirationsj'distinguished
281
ern Chinese.
Almost
all
them strongly from the Souththe travelers were traders, and
traveling with the merchandise t'hat they were going to Their means of transport for sell, or had just bought.
were carts with two horses, and caravans of asses and mules, and especially barrows, guided by two men, one pulling by a rope, the other pushing in a pair of shaft*.
it
Sometimes when the wind was favorable they tried to by fixing above their small vehicles a mat or even spreading a sail. This contrivance must have afforded them much relief, or they would not have
lessen their toil
adopted
it,
for
they are not the
men
for
any needless
complication of machinery. The road we were following was broad enough, and at some time or other, under former dynasties, had most
likely
state,
been a
fine one,
but
it
was now
in a detestable
full
almost every where broken up,
of hillocks
and hollows, and mud holes, and frightful ruts, which the carts and barrows followed with the most scrupuIt was easy to see that time was the lous assiduity. The only functionary who had charge of the road. Chinese assert that the carelessness of the government with respect to the modes of communication only dates from the accession of the Mantchou-Tartar dynasty.
The government does
in fact never concern itself about
the roads, except those which the Emperor has to travAs to the erse when he takes the trouble to travel.
people, they
must manage as well as they
can,
and
in
the northern provinces, where navigable rivers are not so numerous as in the South, accidents frequently hapinpen, and carriages upset and travelers crushed form cidents too common for any body to concern themselves
about
are
you merely pass by on the other side. There some districts in which th% public have endeavored
;
to supply for themselves a
remedy
for this deplorable
82

In
all
negligence of the government.
lawsuits, disputes,
customary only to have recourse to the tribunals at the last extremity most people prefer choosing as arbiters some old men of tried integrity and long experience, whose decisions they respect. In such
and
quai-rels,
it is
cases
it is
to be in the at his
tricts
very common to condemn the party declared wrong to mend a certain piece of the road
of fine,
own expense by way
and
in these dis-
the good state of the road is in a direct ratio with the quarrelsome and litigious spirit of the inhabitants.
found this day's march on the Imperial road extremely fatiguing; the tumult of the travelers, and the thick dust in which we were constantly enveloped,
We
added much to the oppression of the excessive heat. regretted our little cross roads, where at least we had the advantage of being able to rest from time to time under the shade of a great tree, or drink a cup of ice-cold water from a mountain spring. Before the end of the day we arrived once more on the banks of that famous Blue River, which we seemed to meet every where since our departure from the capital of Ssetchouen, and which we had passed on the ice not far from its source in traversing one of the great valleys of
We
On this day we crossed it in a large passage Thibet. boat ; this was the last time, and after an hour's navigation we landed at a little town called Hon-keou, that is
to say,
"Mouth
of the Lake."
we had now arrived was the celebrated Pou-yang, which the Chinese have brought into communication with the Yellow River, by cutting a
The
lake at which
tongue of land that separated them. At Hon-keou we had to settle a very knotty point, and one that to us was of no little importance. "To get to Nan-tchang-fou, the
capital of Kiang-si,
we had
to choose between
two roads,
283
equally frequented by travelers ; the one by water across the lake Pou-yang, a real inland sea, which is delightful
in fine weather, and with a favorable breeze, but dreadfully tedious if the wind be contrary, and very danger-
ous
if
you happen
to
meet with a storm.
The
other
way was by land,
but by roads generally bad, and nearly impassable in the season of rain and tempest, for then you have to journey almost incessantly through quagmires and ponds. There are also no communal palaces
in the
towns where you stop, and the inns are small, Bedirty, inconvenient, and destitute of every comfort. tween these two we had to choose, and the choice was If any one would have secured us a good not easy. wind, we should certainly have preferred the water, and on the other hand it would be more prudent to go by land, if any one would undertake that it should not
rain.
What our friend the Willow thought, it was impossible to guess ; he was exceedingly ready to point out the inevitable inconveniences in either course, but when
it
came
to taking a resolution, one
way
or the other, he
wiped his tearful eyes and had nothing more to say. The case seemed so perplexing, that we thought
better to stay a
little
it
day more information
at
;
Hon-keou, in order to obtain a "let us go to bed," said we to
our conductor,
"we
are too tired to-day to settle this
grave question, to-morrow calmness and deliberation."
we can
"
reflect
on
it
with
of
is
Yes, that plan
is full
wisdom," said he
" in great enterprises precipitation
always injurious."
On the following day, after consulting some experienced persons of the locality, it was decided that on the whole we had better go by the lake. There was a favorable breeze, the sky was clear, and we heard from every one that there was no likelihood of any immediate
change.
The
lake Pou-yang
is
about forty-five miles
284
EMl'IUE.
by from fifteen to eighteen broad, and with the that was blowing, one day would suffice to wind good A junk was hired, us the end of our voyage. to carry a Mandarin junk we were told, but it was really a merchantman, and the same evening we went on board in order to be able to start at dawn on the following
long,
morning.
A tolerably
spacious cabin had been reserved for the
rest (as
we had scarcely retired to we supposed) than we began much to regret that we had not passed the night on shore. Swarms of kakkerlacs began to make war upon us in the most pitiWillow and
ourselves, but
skimming round another, bumping themselves the and wainscot, against performing all kinds of gambols, very amusing doubtless for them, but far from agreeable to us. By degrees, however, they became
less
manner.
We
heard them
first
in circles, pursuing one
quieter, to rest a little probably, in order to their more atrocious manoeuvres, and then
little
be ready for they took a
more exercise, to get up an appetite. Nothing comes amiss to a kakkerlac shoes, hats, coats, lampoil, ink and inkstands, tobacco, and eveii the tobacco
:
but their favorite dainties are the tops of your fingers, ears, and toes ; they would in fact eat a traveler up clothing, bedding and all if they were let alone ; it would only be a question of time and patience. heard them constantly gnawing, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other. Sometimes they had the
pouch
We
insolence to pass over our faces
we
could feel the tick-
At ling of their little feet and their cold stomachs. length by dint of searching they discovered some small
opening, and then they were not long in insinuating themselves beneath the coverlet, and beginning to promenade along our arms and legs.
There was such a multitude of these disgusting insects

on board
this junk,
285
and they were so intolerably imperto pass the whole night in chasing them, and even in this it was necessary to be extremely cautious, and merely put them to flight without crushing them, for they give out such an intolerably fetid odor when crushed, that one would really almost rather make them a present of a toe, than come to this extremtinent, that
we had
ity.
as they have a very
These kakkerlacs swarm in the south of China, and marked predilection for whatever is dirty, and especially old furniture and old rags, they
choose mostly to invade the habitations of the poor, though they do not by any* means despise those of the rich. They make their way into linen, books, and chinks of floors, and seem to find every where suitable board and lodging, but the junks are their most favored resort, and they increase and multiply in them in a truely terrific manner.
being of a and an inch chestnut about It can color, pretty long. hardly go further in its flight than a grasshopper can leap, but to make amends it can gallop with marvelous
It is not a disagreeable-looking creature,
Were it not for its bug-like odor, and its devastating and cunning propensities, it would not be an uninteresting animal.
rapidity.
As soon
a
retreat,
as
day broke, the army of kakkerlacs

retired into cantonments.
sail,
effected
and
the junk give the order to did not appear that there
was
captain of and, strange to say, it any thing to stop for;
The
provisions had been laid in the evening before, and all the men were on board not one failed to answer to the
roll-call.
The capstan was then manned, and

rise to the
the
measured song of the sailors, and the sound of the tam-tam. An immense matting sail was unfurled, a packet of fire-works let off, and as
anchor began to
286
the breeze caught the junk we began to glide rapidly over the blue waters of the lake Pou-yang.
We
that of
had now
left
Kiang-sL and serves to designate the country lying northward of The provthe great lakes Pou-yang and Thing-toun.
ince of Hou-pe*
is
the province of Hou-pe, to enter Hou-pe signifies "north of the Lake,"
in all respects very inferior to that of
land, which is not very fertile, is covered with a multitude of ponds and marshes, of which the Chinese, industrious and patient as they are,
Sse-tchouen.
The
The villages have in general can make but little use. a very poor and wretched appearance. The inhabitants have an unhealthy and rather wild aspect, and are frehave noquently affected by cutaneous diseases.
We
where
else noticed so
much
heads, and there is little proceed from the stagnant waters among which these unfortunate people pass their lives, and still more from
baldness, or so many scalddoubt that these infirmities
the unwholesome diet to which they are confined. It is said that in the province of Hou-pe*, the harvest of a
year
is
seldom
sufficient for
a month's consumption.
The
great populations of the towns are supplied from
the neighboring provinces, and especially Sse-tchouen, which can not in ten years consume the produce of one.
We
remarked, nevertheless, in the province of Hou-pe
tolerably fine plantations of indigo, cotton, and hemp, besides the numerous rice fields that border the
some
lakes and rivers.

pire can not all
Although the eighteen provinces of the Chinese Embe placed on the same rank for fertility and the value of their productions, it may nevertheless be said that on the whole China is an admirably fertile country, and cultivated with remarkable intelligence. In no other country in the world has agriculture been BO highly honored; from the remotest antiquity, it has
287
been placed in the first rank among various kinds of inIt has been celebrated by the greatest moraldustry. such as Confucius and Meng-tze; the magistrates ists, have constantly, in their proclamations, recommended the people to be assiduous in the culture of the fields ; and the head of the State the Emperor never fails to
homage to agricultural labor, at the opening of each year, by a public ceremonial which dates as far back as the 12th century before our era. On the
twenty-third day of the third Chinese moon say toward the end of the month of March
that is to
render
the
mon-
arch goes to the sacred field accompanied by three princes of the blood, the nine Presidents of Courts, a great number of other functionaries of secondary rank,
and several laborers. After having offered sacrifice upon an earthen altar, he himself lays his hand upon the plow, and traces a certain portion of a furrow ; following his example the princes and ministers, each in their turn, guide the plow, and trace some furrows, and then
the laborers complete the tillage of the field. In order to enable the reader better to judge of the
importance attached to this ceremony, we will translate the programme of the fete presented in the form of a memorial to the Emperor Kien Long, and inserted in
1767
in the gazettes of
Pekin and the provinces.

re-
"The
Tribunal of Rites, and the other Tribunals,
spectfully announce the ceremony of the 23d day of the 3d moon, of the thirty-second year of the reign of Kien
Long
(April 22, 1767).
The Emperor
ground.
will perform in
person the labor of

before, the
tilling the
On
the evening
Mandarins of the secondary palace of the
Will respectfully bear the tablet of the Tribunal of ministers to the temple dedicated to the inventors and protectors of agriculture. The Mandarins of the
Emperor
office
of Public Revenue will prepare the instruments of
288
and the boxes filled with seed corn, and transmit The latter, after to the Governor of. the capital. with silk envelopes, and inclosed them covered having them in boxes, will have them carried, and will himself accompany them to the Sacred Field. "Red tablets will be planted on the ground to mark and distinguish the different portions of land which the princes and great persons have to till, and all the instruments of tillage will be placed in order near the Imperial
tillage
1
IK -in
pavilion.
On the day of the ceremony, the Mandarins of the Emperor's household, the Master of the Ceremonies, and the other officers of the Court will repair at the fifth watch (day break) to the outside of the Imperial palace,
there to wait the conclusion of the sacrifices.
"
These
being finished, the ten great officers of the first guard will surround the Son of Heaven, and conduct him to
his palace to repose himself
and quit his habits of
cere-
princes and great personages who have to In the mean perform the labor will also quit theirs. time the plow and the whip, and the boxes of seed
mony.
The
corn to be used
their envelopes Field.
by the Emperor, will be taken out of and placed on one side of the Sacred
"The Master of the Ceremonies, the Mandarins of the Imperial Household, and the other officers on duty, will assemble at noon in the Sacred Field. The four
titled
old
men, the fourteen chanters, the thirty-six
players of instruments, and twenty peasants wearing
straw hats, and holding spades, rakes, pitchforks, and their hands, will place themselves in two lines, to the right and the left of the Sacred Field, along
brooms in
with the
fifty standard bearers, the thirty-four old men of Pekin, and the thirty laborers of the three orders. All being ranged in order shall stand waiting in silence.

"
289
The hour of tillage having come, the first Mandarin of Agriculture shall enter the palace to invite the Son of Heaven. Then the Master of the Ceremonies shall
take a flag and shall wave it three times. The three and the nine who are to till princes, great personages the ground, will then go to the spots marked out, and,
all
who have any
office will repair to their posts, the}
rest ranging themselves Field.
on two sides of the Sacred
" The ten great officers of the first guard having surrounded the Emperor, will conduct him to the Sacred Field, and his Majesty will advance, with his face turned toward the south. As soon as he has reached
the spot, the President of the Tribunal of Rites will say in a loud voice, ' Present the plow,' and immediately the
Minister of Public Revenue, with his face turned toward the north, will kneel down on both knees, and will prewill take hold of
Son of Heaven, who with his right hand. The President of the Tribunal of Rites will then say in a loud voice, 4 Present the whip,' and immediately the Governor of Pekin, with his face turned toward the north, will kneel
sent the handle of the plow to the
it
down with both knees on the ground and will present the whip, which the Son of Heaven will take in his left Two old men will then lead forth the oxen, and hand. two laborers of the first order will support the plow.
The President of the Tribunal of Rites, and the first Mandarin of Agriculture, will walk before them. At the first movement of his Majesty all those who have and the singers will begin their flags will wave them,
songs to the accompaniment of
all
Governor of Pekin
peror will
till
will bear, the
box of
the instruments, the grain, and the
Minister of Public Revenue will follow him.

three furrows.
The Em-
"When
VOL.
the
II.
Son of Heaven
shall
have finished his
290

the President of the Tribunal of Rites will say
tillage,
The Minister of in a loud voice, 'Receive the plow.' Public Revenue will then kneel down to receive it.
The President
in a loud voice,
of the Tribunal of Rites will then say ' Receive the whip.' The Governor of
Pekin
will immediately kneel
down
to receive
it.
They
plow and the whip, as well as the boxes Then the music of seed corn, with the silk envelopes. will stop, and the President of the Tribunal of Rites will invite the Son of Heaven to ascend the Imperial The same President, and the first Mandarin pavilion.
will cover the
of Agriculture, will conduct his Majesty up the central staircase, and his Majesty will seat himself with his face
turned to the south.
"All the Princes, Mandarins, and great personages
who have no
will range themselves
part in the remainder of the ceremony, on either side of the Emperor,
the three princes will befive furrows, each having an old man to guide their oxen, two laborers to hold up the plow, and two inferior Mandarins of Pekin gin to
till
and remain standing.
Then
the ground, and
till
to walk after them and sow the seed. When they have finished, they will come and take their places.
The nine
gin to
old
till
first
and
dignitaries of the Empire will then bewill make nine furrows, each having an
to guide the oxen, and two laborers to supthe port plow, and two inferior Mandarins to walk after them and sow. When they have finished, they will
man
come and take their places in proper order, and remain standing; and the inferior Mandarins of Pekin will cover the implements of husbandry and the boxes of grain with their silk envelopes, and will carry them
away.
" The President of the Tribunal of Rites
will then
lead to the foot of the Imperial pavilion, on the western

side, all
291
the Mandarins of Pekin, the old
men and
the
laborers, dressed according to their condition,
and each
bearing an implement of husbandry. Then all together, with their faces turned toward the north, will kneel three times, and three times strike the earth with their foreheads, to thank the Son of Heaven.
"After
ers will
this ceremony, the old men and the laborgo and finish the tillage of the Sacred Field ;
and then the President of the Tribunal of Rites will come and inform his Majesty that the ceremonies of
the tillage are finished. The Emperor will then descend from the pavilion by the eastern staircase, and will enter a car of state,
and
will
nang, escorted
cians."
by
choirs of singers
go out by the gate of Sienand bands of musi-
similar solemnity takes place in every province, the Governor taking the part of the Emperor, and proceeding, with his principal officers, to the field to be
influence the government and have in the matter, it is certain may that the Chinese profess a great esteem for agriculture, and public opinion ennobles in some measure all that
cultivated.
Whatever
the Mandarins
relates to the labors of the fields.
How many
times
have we seen on the roads in the northern provinces rich farmers, sometimes wearing silken robes, standing waiting gravely with a three-pronged pitchfork the passage of the carts and caravans of mules, in order to
collect the
dung.
It
was evident
there
was
in their eyes
despicable in the occupation, and the The very word travelers manifested no surprise at it.
nothing mean and
made use
of for this action
is
elegant and dignified
it
signifies literally to gather / thus
you
gather flowers, or
the dung of horses

ritorial
the expression is always the same. Chinese agriculture is, from the great division of terproperty,
seldom conducted on a large
scale.
29'2.
There are indeed in the north, farms of considerable extent, but whether the cultivation be on a large or a small scale, the Chinese use only the most simple inTheir plows are frequently without any struments. forewheel, and only turn up the earth a very little way. In the south, the rice-fields are usually tilled with " buffaloes, called aquatic oxen."
In the north, our common domestic oxen are made use of, as well as horses, mules, and asses, and more than once it happened to us to see a plow drawn by
a woman, while her husband walked behind, and guided it. Pitiable it is to see the poor things sticking their
little feet
into the
ground as they go, and drawing them
painfully out again, and so hopping from one end of the furrow to the other. One day we had the patience to wait a long while at the side of a road, to watch
whether the poor laboring wife, who was drawing the plow, was allowed from time to time to rest herself, and we saw with pleasure that there was a cessation of work The husband and wife then at the end of each furrow. sat down in pastoral fashion, on a little hillock, under the shade of a mulberry tree, and refreshed themselves
by smoking
their pipes.
In the southern provinces, the Chinese prepare their lands, and especially their rice-fields, with human maIt nure, which they spread over them in profusion. is unquestionable that by this means a they give strong impulse to vegetation ; but it is possible, also, that the rural produce under this system is of a less salubrious nature, and it may be that to this cause is attributable
the existence of several maladies of the south that are
among the
inhabitants
unknown
in the north.
Without
being aware of the value attached by the Chinese to this kind of manure, one would hardly reconcile with their known character the liberality with which count-

less
293
small buildings are provided in
all
parts foi the
accommodation of travelers. There is no town or village, where the most eager competition does not take On the least frequented roads, in place on this point. the most desert places, you are astonished to find these small edifices-, built of straw, clay, or even stone. You would really suppose yourself in a country, where solicitude for objects of public interest was carried even to excess ; but in reality, self-interest is the motive power that has been at work in the production of these useful
institutions.
you enter a Chinese hamlet, or approach a farm, you are often suddenly struck by a horrible stench that threatens to suffocate you. Not that healthy, somewhat that odor, powerful though escapes from cowhouses and sheep-folds, but an atrocious mixture of all
that is disgusting. The Chinese have, indeed, such a passion for human manure of all kinds, that the barbers even save the croppings of beards, and the cuttings of
nails,
When
and
sell
them
to farmers to enrich the soil.
Small cultivators in China often employ spade husbandry, and it is impossible not to admire the neat condition of their fields, from which they remove every weed with the most invincible patience. The ground must be bad and sterile indeed, if they can not succeed in making it produce something. In places too dry for the culture of rice, they sow the sweet potato, hemp, and
cotton ; and if there is a corner quite unproductive, they plant in it some useful trees, the mulberry, the tallow The Chinese tree, or at least some pines for turpentine. farmer is incredibly anxious about his harvest ; if he dreads that a violent wind may shake out the grains of
rice
by lashing the ears one against another, he binds several stalks together into a kind of sheaf, so as to make them afford each other a mutual support, and
294
JOURNEY THKOUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

In
irrigation also they
check the ravages of the wind.
the water through display great industry, often carrying bamboo tubes up the sides of mountains, which are cut
into terraces, and cultivated to the very top. They have a thousand contrivances in times of drought, to spread the waters of rivulets and ponds over their fields, and
enable them to flow off again when the inundation is too They make use chiefly of chain pumps, which great.
they put in motion with their feet, and which send the water from one reservoir to another with great rapidity. Sometimes they fix at the edges of streams large wheels
of extreme lightness,
sufficient to turn.
which a very slight current is These wheels are most ingeniously
constructed, and surrounded with vessels that take up the water from the rivulets, and pour it into large wooden tanks, whence it afterward runs through little rills over
the
fields.
Many
much
provinces are so
fertile,
and cultivated with so
skill, that three harvests a year are reguWhen the first is pretty well advanced, larly gathered. in the intervals between the sow the second they ridges,
care
and
the same time.
so that there are two different crops in the same field at All the cereals known in Europe are
found in China, and even exhihit varieties not found elsewhere. In the north barley and wheat are more
especially cultivated ; and in the south, rice, which is the principal food of the lower classes, and the basis of
aliment for
all.
It
is,
however, a mistake to suppose
that throughout the Empire the Chinese live chiefly on rice ; in the north and west it is not more used than in
France. It is only seen on the tables of the rich, and then mostly on grand occasions. Wheat, buckwheat, barley, Indian corn, millet, form the daily food of the
people, except in the province of Kan-sou, where bread is made precisely as in Europe ; every where else they

spoil the wlieateii flour, eating
it
295
in the state of unfer-
mented half-done
paste, sometimes in the shape of a
bun, sometimes pulled out in ribbons like macaroni. Little loaves about the size of a man's fist are occasionally made, but merely boiled in steam.
Besides possessing the cereals, fruits, and vegetables of Europe, China has also, in her vegetable kingdom, a rich variety of other productions, many of which would
doubtless prosper in the south of France, and especially in our superb possessions in Africa. Among the most celebrated we must mention the bamboo, the numerous
uses of which have had great influence on the habits of the Chinese. It is no exaggeration to say that the mines of China are less valuable to her than her bam-
boos ; and, after the rice and silk, there is nothing that The uses to which the bamyields so great a revenue. boo is applied are so many and so important, that one
can hardly conceive the existence of China without it. It issues from the ground like the asparagus, of the diameter that it afterward remains when grown. The dictionary of Khang-hi defines it as "a production that is neither tree nor grass" (fei-tsao fei-mou), that is an amphibious vegetable, sometimes a mere plant, and
sometimes acquiring the proportions of a
tree.
The
bamboo has been known from
the remotest times in
China, of which it is a native ; but the cultivation of the large kind dates only from the end of the third Sixty-three principal century before the Christian era. varieties of the bamboo are counted in the Empire;
they
differ from one another in diameter, height, the distance of the knots, the color, and the thickness of the wood, in their branches, leaves, and roots, as well
as in peculiar and whimsical conformations which are forest of bamboos perpetuated in certain species.
will yield a considerable revenue to its proprietor, if
lie
296
" The to regulate the cutting. grandchilthe of the dren Chinese proverb, "never bamboo," says see their grandmother; but the mother is never sepa-
knows how
rated from her children."
Among the useful and curious vegetable productions of China, exclusive of the object of the most active commerce tea may be counted the wax tree, the tallow
tree,
the paper mulberry, the
li-tchi,
or varnish tree
the loung-yen, or dragon's eye ; the jujube, the star anise, the cinnamon tree, of which the bark is very thick ; the orange, of which there are many species ;
the medlar, and a number of other fruit trees peculiar to the southern provinces ; the tree paeony, the camellia, the hortensia, brought from China by Lord Macartney ; the small magnolia,
many kinds
of roses, the odoriferous
Queen Marguerite, the day lily, the rhubarb, the jinchen, or ginsing ; and a prodigious diversity of ligneous herbaceous plants, cultivated for the beauty of their
flowers, as well as the cotton tree,
and a great number of textile, economical, or cereal productions, which would deserve to be naturalized in Europe.
The cultivation of useful vegetables is a branch of industry to which the Chinese have always especially devoted themselves ; and from the remotest epochs it has attracted the attention of the Government, and received
much encouragement.
In the most populous provinces even the rivulets and ponds have been turned to productive account, and nutritive aquatic plants, such as the tubers of the Sagittarius and water-lily, of which the Chinese make such wonderful use, are sown in them. The nymphaja, or water-lily, has always been a great favorite in China. The poets have celebrated it in their verses, on account of the beauty of its flowers ; the Doctors of Reason have placed it among the ingredients for

the elixir of immortality
tolled
it
;
297
and the economists have exthe present day,

it
for its utility.
At
has also
become the symbol of the
secret societies.
This plant, commonly called in China lien-hoa, has broad rounded leaves, scolloped at the edges, fleshy,
of veins, and sloping to the middle ; some swim on the surface of the water, others rise above it to different They are of a tender green on the upper surheights.
full
face, rather
darker underneath, and supported by long
stalks spotted with black. The root of the water-lily is longlived ; it is as thick as your arm, and sometimes as much as twelve or fifteen feet long. The color is pale
yellow outside and milk-white within
and it lies along ; the bottom of the water, or attaches itself to the clay by bunches of fibres, which spring out at various distances From the midst of these fibres it sometimes along it.
sends out shoots which increase
its
growth, but
it
com-
monly grows at the two ends. The stalks of both leaves and flowers are pierced quite to the extremity by holes rounded like those of the root, and symmetrically ar'
ranged along them.
flowers of the water-lily have numerous petals, disposed in such a manner that when they are not com-
The
you might take them for large tulips afterward they expand into a rose-like form. In the middle of the flower is a large conical pistil, which becomes a
pletely open
;
rounded,
spungy
fruit,
divided throughout
its
length
into cells full of oblong seeds, enveloped in a kind of shell like the acorn, and composed like it of two white
between which is the germ. The stamens are very delicate filaments terminating in violet-colored anlobes,
thers.
distinguish four kinds of water-lily, the the white, the red, and the pink, the tliree latter yellow, sometimes with single flowers, sometimes with double.
The Chinese
2a8
This plant may be propagated by seeds, but more easily and rapidly by roots it does not require any kind of culture, and there is nothing comparable to the effect produced by this splendid flower on the ponds and basins It does not bud till toward the end of May, of China. but its germination is very rapid, and its great leaves lying on the surface of the water or raised majestically to various heights, form a covering of most exquisite verdure, the beauty of which is of course enhanced, when it is enameled by flowers of various dyes. They are larger than poppies, and their dazzling tints are
;
The young beautifully relieved by the green leaves. Chinese poets are particularly fond of celebrating the beauty of the water-lily gleaming in the moonlight as
the boats
row about the basins illumined by swarms of glow-worms and fire-flies.
The water-lily is very remarkable, too, in a utilitarian point of view. Its seeds are eaten as nuts are in Europe, a.nd boiled in sugar and water they are con-
by epicures. The gigantic root is a resource for culinary preparations, and in whatgreat ever way it is dressed, it is always excellent and wholesome. The Chinese pickle great quantities of it with
sidered delicious
salt
it
and vinegar, to
eat with rice
is
extremely agreeable
when
it is
boiled with
reduced to a powder milk or

fruit,
water, and in the

is
summer
eaten raw like
and
very refreshing. Finally, the leaves are constantly made use of instead of paper for wrapping up all kinds of things, and when dried are often mixed with tobacco, to render it a little milder.
The Chinese owe
their
numerous discoveries
in agri-
culture principally to their eminently observant character, which has enabled them to turn to use an immense
number of plants neglected
in Europe. They are very fond of the study of nature, and their greatest men,
299
and even their Emperors, do not disdain to attend to the smallest circumstances connected with it, and to
ity.
with care whatever promises to be of public utilcelebrated Emperor Khang-hi has thus rendered an important service to his country. find
collect
The
We
in the curious memoirs written

:
that prince the following passage "I was walking," says the Emperor Khang-hi, "on the first day of the sixth moon, in some
by
fields
where
rice
was sown, which was not expected

till
to yield its harvest

tice
the ninth.
I happened to noit it
a rice plant that had already come into ear; I had rose above all the rest, and was already ripe.
gathered and brought to me ; the grain was very fine and full, and I was induced to keep it for an experiment, and see whether it would on the following year All the plants retain this precocity, and in fact it did. that proceeded from it came into ear before the ordinary time, and yielded their harvest in the sixth moon. Every year has multiplied the produce of the precedthe rice served ing, and now for thirty years it has been on my table. The grain is long, and of a rather reddish color, but of a sweet perfume, and very pleasant It has been named ya-mi, or 'Imperial rice/ flavor.
because
my gardens that it was first cultivated. that can ripen north of the Great kind only Wall, where the cold begins very early, and ends very late, but in the provinces of the south, where the cliit
was
in
It is the
mate
is milder,
and the
to
soil
more
it,
fertile, it is
obtain two harvests a year from

solation to
and
it is
easy to a sweet confor
me
have procured this advantage
my
people."
The Emperor Khang-hi
did render in fact an immense
service to the populations of Mantchuria, by encouragwhich sucing the culture of this new kind of rice,
ceeds admirably in dry countries, and has no need, like
300
JOU11SEY
THROUGH THE CHINESE
EMPIRE.
the
common
rice,
tainly prosper in France,
It would cerof perpetual irrigation. and it is not the fault of the
missionaries
there.
if it
has not long since been acclimated

at the mission in the environs of
While we were
Pekin,
we
several times
made
it
our business to send
and commerce, but we have never heard that any experiment was tried with it. How indeed could it be expected that with
some of it
to the ministers of agriculture
our perpetual revolutions and rapid changes of government, a minister could preserve sufficient tranquillity of mind to occupy himself with a new kind of rice discovered
in
by a Mantchou-Tartar Emperor ? The observant spirit with which the Chinese are gifted the highest degree, has led them to make a curious
corn,
remark concerning
asked us one day,
which
is,
in their opinion, of the
greatest importance.
One
of our Christian converts
if in
France the kinds of corn that
The question flower in the night were very numerous. that and we were to not being confess puzzled us, obliged
agriculturists,
we
did not
know
that
any species
flower-
ed in the night, that we had never heard the phenomenon mentioned, and that probably even the farmers of our country would know no more about it than we did.
that, or
"Oh, no!" he exlaimed, "your cultivators must know how could they carry on their agricultural labors
with success.
Do they sow
their fields at
random with-
out paying any attention to the sun and moon?" For the second time we were forced to avow our profound
ignorance, and thereupon our neophyte began to explain to us some most curious theories connected with the
He told us that the numerous kinds blooming* of. corn. of com were all ranged under two categories, one of which
invariably began to flower in the night, and the other no " The choice of the less invariably in the day. ground,
301
the time for sowing, and the kind of culture, should," he said, "be varied according to the species, and he main-
want of being acquainted with these two and conforming to the rules derivable from them, people must expose themselves to the risk of having very bad harvests."
tained that for
classifications,
We
can not undertake to say
how far
this observation
sufficient zeal
is correct,
and we must own we never had
in the cause of agricultural science to spend a night in a corn field in order to mount guard over the ears, and
catch in the fact those that should take it into their heads to blow. Indeed we are not sure that even if we had, we should have been much the forwarder, for we should very likely not have been able to perceive the flowering of an ear of corn, if it did take place.
We
must
therefore leave
it
to those better informed to decide
on the value of this Chinese observation. very curious and original collection might be made of the remarks of the Chinese, not only on agriculture, but also on many other branches of natural history. will mention a few that we happen to remember, in order to give an idea of the sagacity of this people. Every body knows that swallows go away in the autumn, and return in the spring, and the Chinese have
We
been as curious as ourselves to know what became of them during their six months of absence, and where
they went
011
It had been ascertained that swallows, to. whose claws certain marks had been made to know them by, returned several successive years to the same house it was therefore certain that those that went away in the autumn were the same that had returned in But where did they go to ? The ancients the spring. that they passed beyond the seas, and others supposed
;
even that they plunged beneath the waters but these opinions are regarded by the Chinese as puerile fables,
;
J502
and several observations have demonstrated to them,

that swallows do not, as is supposed, undertake long journeys, in order to go and pass the winter in some
warm
" the
It is written in the annals of China that country. people being overwhelmed by the misfortunes that afflicted them during the reign of the Emperor, Ngan-ty,
more than a thousand families deserted their villages, and went to seek a refuge, in the wildest mountain solitudes, in order to escape the horrors of insurrection and
As there were no vegetable crops they were reduced to feed on rats and swallows, which they found collected in masses in the caverns and hollows of the rocks." Another historian reports the following analofamine.
Emperor, Yang-ty, having ordered on the banks of the Yellow River, there were found immense multitudes of swallows collected in the holes and caves of the rocks, and wherever the shore was steep and solitary. A Chinese naturalist, named
gous
fact.
"The
some
repairs
Luchi, says, after reporting these circumstances "The ancients thought that swallows changed their
climate, but
it is
difficult to
imagine
how they should

set out in
have done
so, since
no one has ever seen them
the direction of southern countries, nor proceed in troops, like the migratory birds that come every year from TarThese draw tary, and return thither in the spring.
themselves up into regular armies, and their passage lasts several days, while the swallows, when they dis-
appear from one province, are not seen in any greater numbers in the other, even in the provinces nearest
the sea;" the
and the Chinese

not
naturalist concludes that
emigrate, but remain always about the same country, and that during the winter they merely hide themselves in holes and caverns. do not know what the naturalists of Europe may
swallows do
We
say to this account.
The
following anecdote, illustra-
303
live of another Chinese observation, will, we fear, not be to their taste any more than to that of the clockmakers. One day, when we went to pay a visit to some families of Chinese Christian peasants, we met, near a farm, a young lad, who was taking a buffalo to graze along our path. asked him carelessly, as we passed, whether it was yet noon. The child raised his head to look at the sun, but it was hidden behind thick " The clouds, and he could read no answer there.
We
sky is so cloudy," said he, "but wait a moment ;" and with these words he. ran toward the farm, and came back a few minutes afterward with a cat in his arms. "Look here," said he; "it is not noon yet;" and he
showed us the
his hands.
We
cat's eyes,
by pushing up the lids with looked at the child with surprise, but
:
and the cat, though astonand not much pleased at the experiment made on her eyes, behaved with most exemplary complaisance. "Very well," said we, "thank you;" and he then let go the cat, who made her escape pretty quickly, and we
ished,
he was evidently in earnest
continued our route.
To say
the truth,
we had
not at
all
understood the
proceeding; but we did not wish to question the little pagan, lest he should find out that we were Europeans by our ignorance. As soon as ever we reached the
farm, however, we whether they could
made
tell
haste to ask our Christians
by looking into a cat's at the question ; but as seemed They surprised eyes. there was no danger in confessing to them our ignorance of the properties of the cat's eyes, we related what had That was all that was necessary; just taken place.
the clock
our complaisant neophytes immediately gave chase to all the cats in the neighborhood. They brought us three or four, and explained in what manner they might
304
be made use of for watches.

the pupil of their eyes
They
pointed out that
went on constantly growing narrower until twelve o'clock, when they became like a tine line, as thin as a hair, drawn perpendicularly across the eye, and that after twelve the dilatation recommenced. When we had attentively examined the eyes of all the cats at our disposal, we concluded that it was past
all
noon, as
We have had some hesitation in

the sale of watches
the eyes perfectly agreed upon the point. speaking of this Chi-
nese discovery, as it may, doubtless, tend to injure the interests of the clock-making trade, and interfere with
;
but
all
considerations
must give
way to the spirit of progress. All important discoveries tend in the first instance to injure private interests, and we
hope, nevertheless, that watches will continue to be
made, because, among the number of persons who may wish to know the hour, there will, most likely, be some who will not give themselves the trouble to run after the
cat, or
who may fear some danger
to their
own
eyes from
too close an examination of hers.
The Chinese have
also given us the benefit of their
experience in another similar case, which is not liable to the inconveniences of the preceding, and has no tenit
dency to compromise any industrial interest. At most could only be disagreeable to asses, by somewhat reIn the straining them in the exercise of their free will. north of China, where traveling by water is not so easy
as in the south, it is very common to make journeys in wagons, or on the backs of asses or mules. You stop every evening, and pass the night at one of the more or less comfortable hostelries which, such as they are, you never fail to meet with on every road. The great inconvenience of these inns is their intolerable noisiness, which makes it a very hard matter to get a night's rest

in them.
If,
305
unfortunately, there should be
any asses
as well
for
in the court-yard of the establishment, you make up your mind at once not to close
may
your eyes,
these terrible animals, doubtless under pretense that music has always been held in honor in the Empire,
think themselves obliged, as good Chinese subjects, to sing the whole night long, and yield to all the caprices of their philharmonic instincts.
In 1840,
we were
once making a journey in a wagon
in the province of Pekin. Our equipage was under the one of our of an old schoolmaster, catechists, guidance
mounted on a magnificent ass, so full of ardor and agility, that the two mules who completed our team had all
the difficulty in the world to keep up with him. This ass, however, was so filled with the sense of his own
and so proud of it, that whenever he became aware of the presence of any of his brethren, let them be at ever so great a distance, he never failed to begin boasting of it in such loud and sonorous tones, When we that his folly became quite insupportable.
superiority,
got to an inn, instead of trying to rest himself, this indefatigable beast passed the whole night in practicing
his
music
and there appeared
to
be something so pe-
culiarly provoking in the tones of his voice, that all the
asses within hearing, influenced,
it
would seem, by the

it
power of some magnetic
fluid,
were quite sure to respond
in a magnificent bravura, so that, altogether, impossible to close our eyes.
became
the evening, when our catechist was vaunting him. we could not his of ass, help interrupting qualities
One
"Your ass," said we, "is an abominable brute. During the whole journey he has prevented our getting a wink of sleep." " did not you tell me so before ?" said the cate-
Why
;
chist
"I would
soon have stopped his singing."
Aa
306

was somewhat of a wag, and
the ancient schoolmaster
indulged occasionally in a small joke, we took little notice of his reply, but that night we slept quite
soundly.
"Well, did the ass make a noise
last night?" said he,
when we met
"Perhaps
him."
in the morning. not; at all events
we
certainly did not hear
"No, no;
to
I think not; I
saw
to that before I
went
" that noticed," he continued, when an ass is going to bray, he always begins by raising his tail, and he keeps it extended horizontally as
bed.
You must have
you have only
To insure his silence, therefore, long as his song lasts. to tie a large stone to the end of his tail, so that he can not raise it."
smiled, without reply, thinking this was another " Come, now, and piece of pleasantry ; but he cried, convince can And acsee; you easily yourselves."
We
cordingly we followed him to the court-yard, where we beheld, sure enough, the poor ass with a large stone attached to his tail, and with the air of having entirely
lost his
His eyes were fixed on the his whole appearance dedown, hung felt quite compassionnoted humility and dejection. ate toward him, and begged his master to untie the stone directly ; and, as soon as ever he felt his musical appendage at liberty, the creature raised, first his head, then his ears, then his tail, and qt last began to bray with all his wonted enthusiasm.
accustomed
spirits.
ground, his ears
We
CHAPTER
Navigation of the Pou-yang
IX.
Pauperism
tuitous Coffins
in
China
Great Number of Junks Desert Tracts Bands of Mendicants Society for Gra-
Causes of Pauperism
of
The King of the Beggars The Hens' Feathers Inn Gaming Various Chinese Games Mode studying the Law against Gamblers Drunkenness The Vine,
Infanticide Its Causes Truth and Exaggeration concerning Infanticide in China Yu-yng-tang, or FoundEdict against Infanticide Work of the Society of the ling Hospital Holy Infancy.
Wine, and Cora Brandy
OUR navigation on the lake Pou-yang was performed without accident ; but it was much slower than we had
*We had
we had two. the wind when way changed, and began to blow right a-head, so that we were compelled to make some long tacks. The weather
anticipated, for instead of one day's journey
not gone more than half
continued
fine,
trary, was not of a nature to give siness. One day's delay was of
however, and the breeze, though conus the smallest unea-
we can
no consequence ; but not say that passing another night on board the junk was quite so much a matter of indifference. The kakkerlacs made war upon us with the same fury as on
the night before, but we got rid of this annoyance by having our beds carried up on deck, and lying down
among the sailors for their perpetual noise and gossip was, at any rate, less of a nuisance than the torments of the kakkerlacs.
During these two days we seldom saw land, and we
could hardly persuade ourselves that we were really in The immense extent the centre of the Chinese Empire.
of water the long waves raised
by
the wind
the large
808

moving about
in all directions,
vessels that were

it
look more like a sea than a lake.
made The innumerable
junks that are constantly plowing the surface of the Pou-yang make really a very pretty sight. They are of very various construction, and the different points to which they are proceeding occasion a great variety in the Some are going before the arrangement of their sails. wind, with all their matting majestically displayed, others are struggling painfully with wind and wave, and great numbers crossing, rapidly, this way and that, in contrary directions, and looking like marine monsters,
chasing each other.
The
evolutions of
all
these floating
machines were so swift and various that the picture changed every moment. We might have gone by water as far as the capital of Kiang-si, for on 'leaving the lake Pou-yang, we
entered
the
mouth of a navigable
river
that
passes
under the walls of Nan-tchang-fou ; but with the wind and current against us, the navigation would have been too laborious and tedious.
We preferred,
halt.
ney that was to bring us
therefore, resuming, by land, the jourin two days to our third great
The province
of Kiang-si
is
regarded as one of the
most populous in China, and we were therefore greatly surprised to observe on our route vast plains without cultivation, and without inhabitants, the wild and dreary aspect of which reminded us of the steppes and deserts of Mongolia. It is not uncommon in China to meet with desolate tracts of this kind, whether on
account of the barrenness of the
soil,
or from the thought-
less carelessness of the people of the locality,
who
prefer
seeking a more precarious subsistence from the chances of trade and navigation, to trusting to the peaceful labors
of the
field.
These fallow grounds are most common
JOUENEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
309
in the neighborhood of the great lakes, and on the banks of rivers. The inhabitants leave the land when they can, and go and pass their lives in the boats, so that it has often been thought that notwithstanding the encouragement given to agriculture, China could yet supply more completely the wants of her inhabitants, or support a greater number of them.
Chinese government does not abundance and riches that are met with in this magnificent
It is certain that the
know how
country.
to turn to account all the elements of
intelligent administration, zealous for the public good, by guiding judiciously this patient and in-
An
dustrious
population, might
develop prodigiously the
immense resources of the Empire, and procure for the masses a much larger share of prosperity and comfort.
We will not venture to
say
it is
easier in
China than
elsewhere completely to extinguish pauperism. In all the great centres of population, there will always be,
unfortunately, many extremely poor, and the class of But the the necessitous will be always considerable.
number of these might certainly be diminished and we have noticed during our residence in China, that it is This circumstance may, every year on the increase. the to astonishing facility and explain perhaps, help
;
that rapid progress of the formidable insurrection
is
threatening
at this
moment
totally to overthrow this
colossal Empire.
always found in no other country such a depth of disastrous Not a year passes poverty as in the Celestial Empire. in which a terrific number of persons do not perish of
famine in some part or other of China
;
and best epochs, and in the most flourishing there and have there been, always governed countries, will be poor; but unquestionably there can be
At
all
and the multi-
310
tude of those
culable.
who live merely from day to day is incalLet a drought, an inundation, or any accident
whatever, occur to injure the harvest in a single provand two-thirds of the population are immediately reduced to a state of starvation. You see them then
ince,
forming themselves into numerous bands perfect armies of beggars and proceeding together, men, women, and children, to seek in the towns and villages for some little nourishment wherewith to sustain, for a brief interval, their miserable existence.
Many
fall
down
faint-
ing
by
the way-side, and die before they can reach the
You see their place where they had hoped to find help. bodies lying in the fields, and at the road-side, and you
pass without taking much notice of them so familiar is the horrid spectacle. In 1849, we were stopped for six months in a Chris-
community of the province of Tche-kiang, first by the torrents of rain that fell, and then by a general intian
undation over
all that part of the country. It had the a of vast on the surface of which trees sea, appearance and villages were floating. The Chinese, who foresaw already the destruction of the havest, and all the horrors
of famine, displayed the most remarkable industry and perseverance in struggling against the misfortune from which they were suffering. After having tried to raise
dikes round their fields, they next attempted to drain off the water by which they were filled ; but just when
they seemed on the point of succeeding in their

cult
diffi-
and toilsome undertaking, the rain again came pouring down, and their fields were once more covered. For three whole months we witnessed their unceasing
industry;
their labors were never discontinued for a moment. The unfortunate creatures, standing in mud and water up to their hips, were- occupied, day and night, in working at their chain pumps, in order to
31i
that
turn into the beds of the rivers and canals the waters were desolating the country. The inundation could not be mastered, however; and after all their
exhausting labor, the poor sufferers were compelled to their fields, and found themselves in a complete state of destitution. Then
abandon the cultivation of
they began to assemble in great bands, and wander about the province with bags on their backs, begging here and there for a little rice. They were hideous to look at half covered with rags, their hair
;
bristling,
their
features
contracted,
their
lips
livid;
and these but lately peaceful and industrious peasants were evidently driven by despair to be ready for
every excess. The Christian community in which we lived was several times visited by these famishing hordes ; and
though we were but
little
richer than
they,
it
was
necessary to retrench something even sities, in order to be able to bestow a

rice
on them. numerous families went
from our necesfew handfuls of Whole villages were abandoned, and

to seek a subsistence in the
neighboring provinces. Calamities of this kind occur every year in some place or other ; and those who have made any savings are
able to get through the crisis, and wait for better days but the others, who are always in much greater numbers, have no choice but to expatriate themselves, or die
;
of famine.
Besides these local and accidental miseries, there is what may be called a fixed and permanent pauperism, which like an incurable leprosy extends its ravages
also
over the whole nation.
In the great towns the multi-
tude of paupers
is terrific.
You
see
them
continually,
crawling through the streets, displaying their deformities, their hideous wounds, their dislocated limbs, to
312

Every day many
arc
excite
public commiseration. starved to death.
The Chinese who
are in easy circumstances do not
object to bestow a few sapecks in alms, but they know nothing of the feeling of charity that induces any one to
interest themselves in the poor
i
to love
them, and com-
They give a handful of passionate their distresses. rice, or a piece of money, to the sick and unfortunate,
merely to rid themselves of their presence ; but further than this, no one troubles himself about these miserable creatures, or inquires whether they have any corner in which to obtain shelter to pass a night. The poor have no home they go and crouch somewhere about the
;
tribunals or pagodas, or they where they construct wretched

side.
lie
little
along the ramparts, hovels with frag-
ments of matting that they have picked up on the way-
The Chinese, so ready and skillful at organizing every kind of society that has any commercial or industrial object in view, or even for resisting thieves, or the enticements of the gaming table, have never yet formed any benevolent society for the solace of the sick and the
unfortunate, with the single exception of a society to provide coffins gratis for the dead who have no relatives
to undertake their funerals.
As
it
for this,
though
it
is
scarcely allowable to scruaction,
tinize the
is
motives of those
who perform any good
impossible not to doubt whether at bottom this does not owe its origin to a self-interested motive. It is
among the Chinese that the souls of the dead are often changed into evil spirits, devils, who take pleasure in tormenting the living, in creating diseases in them, or interfering with them in various ways to their
a superstition
The best means of averting the malignant prejudice. influences of these evil-disposed spirits, who are mostly
313
have been deprived of sepulture,

coffins for those
so implacable against the living, because their bodies is of course to buy
who
obtaining burial.
is
supposed
fail
die without having the means of This benevolent attention can not it to dispose them favorably toward the
members of the
exception of this
With the society for gratuitous coffins. we have never heard in China of any
purpose of providing for the
society, instituted with the
wants of the indigent.

for
however, the opulent classes neglect to associate the benefit of the poor, the poor do not fail in retribution to form companies for taking advantage of the
If,
rich.
Every one brings
to the
common
stock some in-
firmity real or supposed,
human misery account. The poor
this formidable capital of is turned as far as possible to profitable
and
are formed into companies, regiments, and battalions, and this great army of paupers has a chief, who bears the title of " King of the Beg-
gars,"
is
and who is actually recognized by the State. He responsible for the conduct of his tattered subjects, and it is on him the blame is laid when any disorders
among them that are too outrageous and dangerThe King of the ous to public peace to be endured. There are certain is a real power. at Pekin Beggars
occur
days on which he is authorized to send into the country some of his numerous phalanxes and bid them ask alms,
or rather
maraud
all
The
pencil of Callot
over the environs of the capital. would be necessary to paint the
burlesque, disorderly, scandalous appearance of this army of vagabonds, marching proudly to the conquest
of some village.
While they swarm about like some devastating insects, and seek by their insolence to in'
timidate every one they meet, their king calls a meeting of the principal inhabitants, and proposes for a certain
sum
to deliver
them from the hideous
invasion.
After
VOL.
II.
314
a long dispute the contracting parties come to an agreement, the village pays its ransom, and the beggars decamp to go and pour down like an avalanche upon some
other place.
These hordes sometimes reap tolerably abundant harvests in their expeditions, but every thing goes first into the hands of the king, and he afterward makes the distribution
among
his subjects, who, without having read
a line of Cabet, or Victor Considerant, appear to have
made great progress in their theories. These grand new ideas are not monopolized by Europeans, and many
people will no doubt feel somewhat humiliated on being told that the Asiatics, the Chinese even, have been for a long time reducing to practice opinions supposed to
have burst forth but yesterday from the powerful brains

of the philosophers of the West. There exists at Pekin a phalanstery which surpasses in eccentricity all that the fertile imagination of Fourier
could have conceived.
It is called Ki-mao-fan, that is,
By dint of carrying out the laws of progress, the Chinese have found means to furnish to the poorest of the community a warm
feather-bed, for the small consideration of one fifth of a
"House
of the Hens' Feathers."
This marvelous establishment is farthing per night. simply composed of one great hall, and the floor of thrs
great hall is covered over its whole extent by one vast thick layer of feathers. Mendicants and vagabonds who have no other domicile come to pass the night in this
immense dormitory. Men, women, and children, old and young, all without exception, are admitted. Communism prevails in the full force and rigor of the expression. Every one settles himself and makes his nest
as well as he can for the night in this ocean of feathers
;
when day dawns lie must quit the premises, and an officer of the company stands at the door to receive the
315
rent of one sapeck each for the In night's lodging. deference no doubt to the principle of equality, half-
places are not allowed, and a child as a grown person.
must pay the some
establishment of this eminently philaninstitution, the managers of it used to furnish each of the guests with a covering, but it was
first
On
the
thropic and moral
found necessary to modify this regulation, for the communist company got into the habit of carrying off their
ment during the rigorous cold of holders saw that this would never
coverlets to sell them, or to supply an additional garwinter. The sharedo,
be ruined, yet to give no covering been too cruel, and scarcely decent.
therefore to find
at all
It
and they should would have
was necessary
reconciling the interests of the establishment with the comfort of the guests,
some method of
and the way in which the problem was solved was
this
of such gigantic dimensions as to cover the whole dormitory, was made, and in the
felt coverlet,
An immense
day time suspended to the ceiling like a great canopy. every body had gone to bed, that is to say, had laid down upon the feathers, the counterpane was let down by pulleys, the precaution having been previously taken to make a number of holes in it for the sleepers
When
to put their heads through, in order to escape the danAs soon as it is daylight, the phager of suffocation. is coverlet hoisted up again, after a signal lansterian has been made on the tam-tam to awaken those who
are, asleep, and invite them to draw their heads back into the feathers in order not to be caught by the neck and hoisted into the air with the coverlet. This im-
mense swarm of beggars
is then seen crawling about in the sea of dirty feathers and inserting themselves again into their miserable rags, preparatory to gathering into groups and dispersing about the various quarters of the
316

to seek
town
by lawful
or unlawful
means
their scanty
subsistence.
Among the principal causes of pauperism in China may be mentioned, besides the excessive carelessness of
the government
and the exuberance of the population,
These vices gambling, drunkenness, and debauchery. of course are not- peculiar to China ; they have been
all ages and countries, and have always and misery in their train. It is true, disorder brought that the Chinese give themselves up to them however,
known
in
with a passion never exceeded ever existed.
among any nation that has
by the laws of the Empire, on this subject has been overpowered by the habits of the people, and China is now in fact one vast gaming-house. Chinese games are very numerous ; they play at cards, chess, draughts, dice, and
Gaming
is
prohibited
but
all legislation
tsei-mei, a
game
similar to the Italian morra.
He who
The Chiobliged to pay a cup of brandy. nese are also passionately fond of cock-fights, as well
loses
is
as of combats between crickets, grasshoppers, etc., and these interesting amusements always give occasion to
Habitual gamwagers, often to a considerable amount. blers prefer cards and dice ; they assemble both in private houses, and in public establishments, a good deal like our cafes, except that nothing but tea is drunk
in them.
with so
There they pass days and nights, playing passion, that they scarcely give themselves time even to take their food. There is not a village that has not its gaming-house, and its professed
much
gamesters.
The Chinese
are,
as
we have
said, industrious
and
economical, but their cupidity, their immoderate love of lucre, and their decided taste for stockjobbing and
speculation, easily tempt
them
to gambling,
when they

are not engaged in
traffic.
317
They seek eagerly for strong excitements, and when once they have got into the habit of gambling they seldom or never recover from it. They cast aside every obligation of station, duty, and family, to live only for cards and dice, and this
fatal passion gains such an empire over them, that they When proceed even to the most revolting extremities.
they have
lost all their
houses, their land,
and
their
money, they will play for their wives even, whose destiny
Nay, the Chinese does not for he stake the very will gambler stop hero, clothes he has on for one game more, and this horrible custom gives rise to scenes that would not be credible, did we not know that the passions always tend to render
cruel and inhuman. In the northern provinces, especially in the environs of the Great Wall, you may sometimes meet, during the most intense cold of winter, men running about in a state of complete nudity, having been driven pitilessly from the gaming-houses when they had lost their all.
often depends on a cast of the dice.
men
'
They rush about
in all directions like
madmen
to try
and save themselves from being frozen, or crouch down against the chimneys, which in those countries are carried along the walls of the houses, on a level with the They turn first one side toward the warmth, ground.
then the other, while their gambling companions, far from trying to help, them, look on with ferocious and malignant hilarity. The horrible spectacle seldom lasts
long, for the cold soon seizes the unfortunate creatures,
and they
perfect
fall
down and
die.
The gamblers then
return
to their table,
and begin to play again with the most Such facts as these will appear composure.
fabulous to
many
persons, but having resided several
years in the north of China,

fect authenticity.
we can
testify to their per-
818
These excesses seem surprising enough, but the truth have invented still more exis, that Chinese gamblers of methods satisfying their passion, which traordinary Those who have is really carried to absolute madness. a table and actuwill collect round more to lose nothing will cut off recipfor which their they fingers, ally play We had thought to rocally with frightful stoicism.
pass over these revolting particulars, for we do not like to put the confidence of our readers to too great a trial. have a strong objection to relating things that, al-
We
though we know them to be
probable appearance. nese gamblers were known, and commented upon by Here is a the Arab travelers in the 'ninth century.
But these
strictly true, have an imfacts concerning Chi-
" Chain of Chronicles," passage on the subject from the from which we have already quoted more than once "Among men of a volatile and boastful character,
:
those
who belong to the lower classes, and who have no money, will sometimes play for the fingers of their hands. During the game, they keep by them a vase containing nut, or sesame oil, for olive oil is not known in this country. A fire is kept burning under it, and between the two players is placed a small but very The one who wins then takes the hand sharp hatchet. of the loser, places it on a stone, and cuts off one of his fingers with the hatchet ; the piece falls, and the vanquished party immediately dips his hand into the hot This operation does oil, which cauterizes the wound. not prevent the players' from beginning again. Some will take a match, dip it in oil, place it on their arms, and set fire to it ; the match burns, and you can smell the odor of the consuming flesh, but the man goes on with his game, and exhibits no sign of pain." All players, as may be supposed, do not cut off their fingers and roast their arms, and even in China gam-
319
bling is not always carried to these insane excesses; tut throughout the Empire it is the cause of great misery, and nothing is more common than to see numerous families reduced to wretched indigence by the conThe evil sequences of a few games of cards or dice. has become so general, that the laws are powerless
In vain do the magistrates make eloquent proclamations against gamblers, and quote passages from
against
it.
the most celebrated moralists, in support of their fine speeches ; nobody plays a game the less in any province
of the Empire. The magistrates themselves, in some measure, teach the people to disregard the laws ; they often visit the villages under pretense of seeking for
gamblers, when in fact they are insuring them perfect impunity, simply on condition of being paid for their connivance. On their arrival, a good dinner is given to
them, as well as a larger or smaller ingot of silver; and then they continue their tour, after having duly exhorted the villagers to persevere in the observance of the
five social duties.
We
money
once
knew
offered to
a Mandarin who objected to have him when he went on a search for
His sentiments were so noble, so elevated, gamblers. that the mere idea of receiving a present from the people under his jurisdiction excited his anger and indigna-
He loved money, nevertheless. How could he have been a Mandarin if he did not ? He liked to get it, but he was particular about having it offered in a manner that should not wound the delicacy of his sentiWhen he came to a place, he always managed ments. to make it understood what sum he was to receive, and then the way was, for the principal person in the town, or village, .to invite him to take tea, and after that, to play a game or two-; at which games the Mandarin was
tion.
to be allowed to win.
But
it
was necessary
for those
320

to affect to be
who played with him

tion,
paying great atten-
and trying
trate
was
to get the game, for this worthy magisnot satisfied unless he had the gain and the
glory too, and chose to have both his pockets filled and
his skill admired.
The passion for gambling has now invaded all classes of society in China ; men, women, and children every body plays but the lower classes are certainly the most
and determined gamblers. In almost every you meet little ambulatory gamin a cup placed upon a stool a of dice ing-tables ; pair form an almost irresistible attraction to the workman returning from his daily labor, and when once he has
inveterate
street of a great town,
yielded to the temptations of this fascinating display, he finds it afterward still more difficult to withstand
them. He often loses the whole of his hard earnings in a few hours. Children, too, crowd round the tables
as eagerly as their parents, and the old people are very often the first to urge them down the abyss from which
they can scarcely ever rise again.
Drunkenness
is also in
China a cause of pauperism,
scarcely less efficient than the passion for gaming ; but this vice does not create quite as much misery in the
south as in the north of the Empire, though the case
is
the reverse with the passion for gaming, as the southIt is, of course, ern Chinese drink less but play more.
not their habitual beverage tea that intoxicates them, but a variety of alcoholic liquors which are very popular,
and within every
one-'s reach.
The grape has been known

from the remotest antiquity.
in China,
and celebrated
The
learned assert that
the descriptions of the Imperial Gardens in the Tcheouky a work attributed to the celebrated Tcheou-long,
who ascended
the throne in the year 1122 before Christ

;
can only refer to the vine
and however
this
may be,

there
is
,321
no doubt that there were
many
vines in the
provinces of Chen-si and Chan-si ages before the Christian era. The historian Sse-ma-tsien speaks of a certain rich man who had a vineyard so considerable that he made every year 10,000 measures of wine.
"The wine of grapes," he adds, having the property of keeping many years, it used to be put into urns and buried." At this time wine was very common,
and caused a good deal of mischief. The numerous songs composed under the dynasties of the Yuen and
are a proof that the Chinese have not always disdained the juice of the grape ; and the Emperor Ouenty has sung of it with a lyric enthusiasm worthy of
Han
Anacreon or Horace.
According to the testimony of the Annals, the vine, every thing else in China, has undergone many revolutions. When at various times the government has given orders for cutting down the trees, the multitude of which was supposed to injure the corn, the vine has not been excepted; on the contrary, it has sometimes been specially pointed out, and pitilessly sacrilike
Under some reigns the extirpation of the vine was so complete in certain provinces, that the very remembrance of it was lost ; and
ficed to the culture of cereals.
subsequently,
when permission was given
to plant
it
the manner in which again, you might suppose from some historians express themselves that the vine was becoming known for the first time. This is probably what gave rise to the idea that the vine was only cultivated in China at a comparatively recent period, and
came from the West, though it is really indisputable that it was known to the Chinese long before The Annals contain accounts of vathe Christian era.
that
it
rious species that were brought from Samarcand, Persia, Thibet, Tourfan, Hami, and other countries, with which
O*
322

relations.
It
China has had
would even be easy
to
show
that grape wine was in use under every dynasty, and At present there still every reign to the 15th century. exist in China several excellent kinds of grapes, and the
Mantchou Emperors, Khang-hi, Yoangand Khien-long, sent for a great number of new tching, works from plants foreign countries, and have in their
three first of the
The Chinese taken credit to themselves for doing so. of our day, however, do not cultivate the vine on a large the fruit is only scale, and do not make wine of grapes
;
The immense gathered for eating either fresh or dried. and the consequent necessity of population of China, the vine to be occasions land for the food, reserving
neglected,
and
its
products regarded as objects of lux-
ury.
In default of grape wine, the Chinese manufacture a spirituous liquor from corn, and make a great consumpThe most commonly used is that obtained tion of it. It is a kind of beer, the from the fermentation of rice. taste of which is sometimes very agreeable ; that of the best quality comes from Chao-hing, in the province of As it is made from rice, the Europeans Tche-kiang. and Canton generally pronounce it at Macao resident but detestable; they are always disposed to judge a One day we took it of Chinese productions. priori into our heads to fill some bottles with it, and, having first sealed them with great care, we offered them to an He tasted, and not only English connoisseur in wine. found it excellent, but discovered that it was the produce of some celebrated vintage in Spain. He served it at dessert to some of his countrymen, who pronounced a
high eulogium upon it, and perceived in and bouquet of Spanish wines.
It
it
the true flavor
of quite exceptional quality
must be owned, however, that this rice-wine was that which is drunk com;

monly
in
323
China is not very agreeable, and though conbut little alcohol, taining easily gets into your head. The Chinese were acquainted with this manufacture at
twenty centuries before the Christian era. In order to procure the fermentation of the rice, they place it in large jars, and mix it with a certain leaven, to which they give the name of "mother of wine." This leaven is made with the flour of good wheat, in which all the bran has been left. This flour is mixed with warm water, and then kneaded into a mass rather iirmer than bread-dough. It is then placed in wooden and made into of the shape of a brick, masses moulds, and weighing four or five pounds. These are ranged on a board, and placed in a chamber hermetically closed, and left to ferment. The makers know when the fermentation is finished by a reddish color reaching the centre of the loaves. They are then exposed to the air to dry, and in this state become articles of commerce. When this yeast has been properly made it is rather better for being old, and even the maggots that get into it do it no great harm, though the makers try to keep them off by placing aromatic herbs between the loaves. The preparation of this yeast requires great care and practice ; and the goodness of the wine depends on the In the north of China quality of the yeast employed. The " mother of wine" millet is used instead of rice. being only corn flour fermented, acidified and dried, it may be made equally well with oats, rye, or barley; and the flour of peas or beans is sometimes mixed with the leaves and it, as well as odoriferous herbs, almonds, to powder. reduced and fruits dried and of bark trees,
least
Every locality has a different receipt. Corn brandy was not known in China at so ancient The use of it does not seem to have a date as wine.
been
earlier
than the end of the 13th century.
Before
.",24
that epoch the Chinese were not acquainted with the The first person, it is said, who process of distillation.
made corn brandy was only trying to correct the bad taste of some old wine, by passing it through a still, and he was much surprised to find that his process
had produced a spirit. For a long time spirits were only made from wine, and the possibility of making A alcohol from grain was found out by mere chance. peasant of the province of Chan-tong, who wished to
make a
large quantity of wine, found that the millet had not been properly stirred, and that instead of fermenting it had become mouldy. Not being able, therefore, to use it for wine, he thought he would try and make brandy of it, and his experiment succeeded perSince then his method has been adopted, and a fectly.
great
many
The
useless manipulations thus spared. brandies of the north are made principally with
large millet (holcus sorghum).
There exist considerable
manufactories where
through the
still,
product is passed several times and thus obtains the strength and
its
These liquors always retain an unenergy of alcohol. taste it but ; may be got rid of by macerating pleasant fruits aromatic herbs in them. The Chinese, or green
however, do not care about these niceties ; they drink it with avidity ; and they are so little in the habit of drinking any thing cold that they have even their
brandy served up to them smoking hot. At the inns they bring and place on the table of their guests a little urn filled with brandy, and a miniature tripod, in the centre of which is a small china bowl. Into this they pour some spirit, and set light to it, and then so that you have the pleasure place the urn upon it of keeping your alcohol hot as long as you remain at
;
table.
This horrible drink
is
the delight of the Chinese, and
325
ter.
especially of those of the north, who swallow it like waMany ruin themselves with brandy, as others do
with gaming. In company, or even alone, they will pass whole days and nights in drinking successive little
cups of
it,
until their intoxication
makes them
inca-
pable of carrying the cup to their lips. When this passion has once seized on the head of a family, poverty, with all its lugubrious train, very soon makes its entrance into the house.
It is unfortunately the custom for the distilleries to supply brandy on credit for a whole year, so that a
go on for a long time drawing from this inexhaustible spring. His troubles will only begin in the last moon the legal period of payment. Then
tippler maj-
indeed he must pay, and with usury; and as money does not usually become more plentiful with a man from the habit of getting drunk every day, he has to
sell his
house and his land,
if
he have any, or to carry

pleasure the Chinese which are absoill
his furniture
and his clothes
to the pawnbroker's.
One can hardly imagine what

lutely like liquid
fire,
find in imbibing these burning drinks,
and, moreover, very

for the
tasted.
But many instances have been mentioned

having died a fiery death
to us of their
it
;
sake of
of
men
who have absorbed such
a quantity of alcohol as to have become fairly saturated with it, and to have, in a manner, exhaled it at every pore. The slightest acci-
dent then, perhaps in merely lighting a pipe, has been sufficient to envelop in flames and consume these wretch-
ed creatures.
We
have not ourselves witnessed any
occurrence of the kind, but many persons, on whom we can place the most perfect reliance, have assured us that
it is
far from uncommon in this country. The Chinese law prohibits the fabrication
spirits,
of rice-wine
to
and
on the ground that corn ought
be taken
826
the greatest care of, in a country where all the labor and industry of the inhabitants is scarcely sufficient to supply the food required for the immense population.
gaming
are pretty much like those that prohibit a perfect dead letter; a fee to the Mandarin removes all difficulties. The large establishments called
But these laws
Chao-kouo require a permission from the government to brandy and this is sold to them only on condition that they shall employ in their distilleries nothing but grain that is spoiled, and unfit for any other purBut that does not form the slightest hindrance pose.
distill
;
to
their
using the very best grain the harvest pro-
duces.
Gambling and drunkenness, then, are the two permanent causes of pauperism in China but there is a third, still more disastrous. Chinese society has a certain tone of decency and reserve that may very well impose on those who look only at the surface, and judge merely by the moment;
ary impression ; but a very short residence among the Chinese is sufficient to show that their virtue is entirely
external ; their public morality is but a mask worn over the corruption of their manners. will take care not to lift the unclean vail that hides the putrefaction of
We
the leprosy of vice Chinese civilization has spread so completely through this skeptical society, that the varnish of modesty with which it is covered is
this ancient
;
continually falling off and exposing the hideous wounds which are eating away the vitals of this unbelieving people. Their language is already revoltingly indecent, and the slang of the worst resorts of licentiousness threatens
to
are
become the ordinary language of conversation. There some provinces in which the inns on the road have
apartments entirely papered with representations of all kinds of shameless debauchery, and these abominable
327
pictures are known among the Chinese by the pretty name of "flowers." The ravages of pauperism, it may well be supposed,
must be terrible, in a society in which gambling, drunkenness, and libertinism are thus largely developed and,
;
in fact, there do exist countless multitudes perpetually stagnating in vice and misery, and always ready to
enroll themselves
under the banners of theft and high-
way
is
To this pauperism especially, we believe, robbery. to be ascribed the monstrous crime of infanticide, so
common
in China, and for the prevention of which the of charity Europe, and particularly of France, has been so deeply interested. Of late years lively discussions
have arisen upon this lamentable subject. On one hand, an attempt has been made to deny the fact which is mere folly and on the other, it has unquestionably been
greatly exaggerated; as it mostly happens in cases of dispute, where so feAV people stop calmly at the point of truth. Many accounts sent from China have also served
in our from the facts ascergeneralization It is worth while to try and find what is really tained. true and what false, in this monstrous barbarity with to embroil the controversy
;
and there has been,
opinion, far too
much
which the Chinese nation is reproached. We will first quote some passages from a letter of M. Delaplace, who
for
seven years exercised his apostolic zeal in the mis-
sions of China.
" Some persons ask whether

is
it is
true that infanticide
of every-day occurrence in China. voice may not go for much, I can add of others to assure
it
Although my to the crowd

millions
you
that thousands
of
infants perish in the waters of the rivers, or in the jaws The letters of missionaries that I have read of beasts.
Annals generally assign as the cause of this barthe misconduct of parents, the trouble and burden barity
in the
328
of a numerous family, or simply caprice and custom. This is but too true, and I have witnessed the deplorable
effects of these things both at Macao and in the other districts that I have visited during the past five years.
But
it
seems to
me
that to all these causes

it is
.added that of superstition, for
that
must be which occasions
more
rest.
frightful,
more
irretrievable ravages than all the
If the other missionaries do not speak of it, it that the evil is not so striking in their parts of be may the country as it is here ; or that since the custom
originates in superstition, they may merely comprise under this head whatever proceeds from it. However this may be, you may receive what I have told you as
from an eye-witness ; but remember that my observations apply only to the province of Ho-nan, where they were made. I can not pretend to affirm any thing concerning all China, where every province has a language,
customs, and superstitions peculiar to itself. "The Chinese of whom I speak, that is to say, nearly all the pagans of Ho-nan, believe in the metempsychosis.
According to their notions, every
man
has
three houen.
What
is
is
a houen?
;
you
it
will say;
and
the question
not easy to answer

is
for the idea attach-
ed to this word
very vague
but
may be
said to
signify mind, spirit, vitality. Every individual, then, has three houen, and at the death of their possessor one
of
them migrates
in the family, that is the domestic houen To this last reposes in the tomb.
into another body, the other remains and the third ;
papers are burnt,
as a
sort of sacrifice;
its
to the domestic houen,
which
has
abode in the
it,
tablet,
among
the characters en-
perfume are burned, and funeral repasts offered. These honors paid, the family make themselves easy; the houen is appeased, and what is
graved upon
sticks of
there to fear
329
those
"Such are who die
the measures to be taken with respect to

at a
;
for children ?
lets to
mature age but what is to be done Custom does not permit the raising tabthem, or rendering them any kind of worship,
is not supposed to be perfect; but, although incomplete, it still exists ; and in its imperfect state is still more to be dreaded than that of grown men ; nothing can be done to pay it honor, and yet its anger is to be dreaded. They get out of this dilemma by a true Chinese method ; that is to say, they endeavor to trick and deceive the houen. When a
as their houen
child is very
shall not
ed.
it
ill,
trive matters so that the
in fact, in its last agony, they conhouen as it leaves the body
know
They
it
the family from which it has proceedtake the poor little dying creature and throw
or
in the water,
alive.
abandon
it
in
some remote
spot,
or
the houen will be angry inbury deed ; but will take vengeance on the fish, or the beast
Then
If the thing did field, and the family is saved. not turn one sick with disgust and horror, one might laugh at the precautions taken to deceive the houen.
of the
" The person appointed to carry away the poor dying child does not proceed in a straight line, but zigzag, goin ing a little one way, then turning back and walking an opposite direction ; now east, and now west, describin order that ing a number of triangles, one upon another, houen the in this labyrinth of broken lines, may not be inclined to rebe in case it should able to find its way,
turn to
its
former home.
this pitiable, deplorable ?
" Is not
reason
Such
why
:
so
many
children are cast
actually the upon the highis
ways, and they are least unfortunate who are merely abandoned their lives may be sometimes prolonged or even saved, but others are sometimes immolated in a more cruel manner.
330
"In the month of June last, a pagan of the neighborhood (about a mile from my house) seeing his child his idea behatchet ill, dispatched it himself with his this child would fasten upon anof that the houen ing
;
other,
and that
all his
children
would
die.
It
was neces-
in such a way sary, therefore, to torment the houen, and that it should have no desire to lodge any more under his
roof.
" Others from a different motive, but one derived from the same strange superstition, exercise the same The houen is regarded by them as a sort cruelties.
of evil spirit that desires to torture human creatures. new-born infant, dying so young, has not afforded
the houen sufficient means of slaking its thirst for barbarity. They must, therefore, do what they can to satas it, isfy long as a breath remains in the little body.
The houen, once

ily.
satisfied, will cease to

is
torment the fam-
Here, therefore,
it
to pieces ; ation ; first,
another dying child to be hacked and two rules are to be observed in the oper-
must be cut
into three portions, the one
composed of the head and breast, the second of the trunk and thighs, the third of the legs and feet ; secondly, it must be the father or mother who shall thus mangle
their
am
own offspring. Do you believe these horrors ? I certain that many even among the missionaries have
never heard them mentioned, and I repeat that it is very possible they may not be common all over China.
may even be that the kind of people with whom I have come in contact during the last three years, and the district of country I have traversed, may be excepBut be assured that I am writtional, even in Ho-nan.
It
ing to
you deplorable
truths
truths so
much
the more
deplorable, that we can not, for the reasons above stated, even come near these poor little victims to bestow on them the gift of baptism. All is done in secret between

the father and mother,
331
who
reserve for themselves this
ferocious privilege. " Since we are upon this subject, I will unvail to
you
most probably new to you you must have been in some such situation as I have found myself in, to become acquainted
it
another horror; I say unvail, for

;
is
with
it
"A
course,
man
had
for his
of a tolerably opulent family, a pagan of two first children successively two
wished to know whether he should Can you guess what he did to find it out? He took a tcha-dze, a kind of cleaver used to chop up
daughters.
He
have a son.
straw for the food of animals, and having laid his little daughter on the ground, he placed her neck under the blade of the instrument, and pressed it down with all his strength, examining very attentively the while in what way the blood issued from the gash, for on that
depended the presage.

cleaver,
left,
it
If that
it it
flowed gently along the
was a proof
had no virtue and energy
and consequently he could only expect in future to have daughters. If, on the contrary, it spouted out, and especially if it touched the knees of the infant, then, indeed, vital strength was displayed in it, and he would be certain to obtain a boy. This custom was surely the invention of him who has been called 'a murderer from the beginning.' Oh pagans! true children of the demon, who delight in blood, even as he does, when will your hearts be moved by the charity of Jesus Christ ?" We have chosen this letter in preference to many others that we might have taken from the Annals of the " Holy Infancy," Propagation of the Faith and of the because we were intimately acquainted with its author, and know that though his feelings are lively, he is a man of the most perfect prudence and discretion, and
332
JOU11NEY
THROUGH THE CHINESE
EML'IIJK.
would assuredly never write down any
facts without
their authenticity. He liaving inquired thoroughly into is careful, we see, to observe, that the district where
these atrocities took place may form an exception, not only to China in general, but even to the province or
Ho-nan. He refrains from generalizing upon what he has seen or heard, even from persons most worthy of credit. Unfortunately this wise caution is not always
observed
mon
for
them
by those who speak of China to put down the act of a
quite comsingle individual

it is
hundred millions, and make the whole Chinese Empire responsible for what passes in a single district. This is. one great cause of the numerous prejudices that exist in Europe on the subject of the
to the account of three
Chinese.
In the part of the country alluded to by M. Delaplace some it seems hack their children to pieces to torment the houen, and prevent its wishing to return to them others hack them up also, but with the view of sending the houen away content and pleased. We can hardly
;
expect to find
superstitions
;
much
but
it
logic in heads
is
still
crazed with such
possible that these facts
may be exceptional, and of very rare occurrence. We have ourselves during our many journeys and our long residence in China never heard of these horrid practices. As for ordinary infanticides the suffocation and drowning of infants they are innumerable, more common, unquestionably, than in any other place in the
Avorld,
and
the information
it
their principal cause is pauperism. From we have collected in various provinces,
kill their
appears that persons in embarrassed circumstances new-born female children in the most pitiless
manner. The birth of a male child in a family is an honor and a blessing ; but the birth of a girl is regarded
as a calamity, especially with necessitous parents.
JOURNEY THIJOUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE. boy
333
is soon able to work and help liis parents, who count upon his support for their old age the family is continued also by a boy, and a new link added to the
;
genealogical chain. girl, on the contrary, is a mere burden. to Chinese manners, she must reAccording
main shut up till the period of her marriage, and she can not exercise any kind of industry, by which she might make amends to her parents for the expenses she occasions.
It is therefore the girls only that are murdered,
as they are regarded as causes of indigence. In certain localities, where the culture of cotton, and the breeding of silk-worms, furnish young girls with suitable occupations,
unwilling to see
live, and the parents are even them marry and enter another family. Interest is the supreme motive of the Chinese, even in cases where the heart alone ought to have influence. Must, then, the frequency of infanticide in China lead
they are allowed to
to the conclusion that the Chinese, as a nation, are bar-
barous, ferocious, regardless whom they have given birth
of the lives of these to

?
We
think not.
There
are, of course, degraded men to be found among them ; men who shrink from no atrocity ; and even of the Chi-
nese in general,
easily
fall
it
may
be said with truth that they
into vice,
be surprised at this have cause for surprise if it were otherwise ? What motive can be capable of arresting the force of passion in men without any religious belief, in whom self-interest is the only rule of good and evil, who live in a skeptical society, under atheistical laws, whose only sanction When we consider what is the rod and the gallows.
takes place among Christian nations, we shall see that we have not quite so much room to cry out about paIf there is any thing to be surprised at, it is that gans. have not made greater progress in evil. Christian-
and commit crimes. But can we ? Should we not, on the contrary,
they
334
ity has ennobled human blood and inspired an infinite Among Christians, religion, respect for human life.
laws, national manners, all protect the lives of children as much as those of grown persons, an.d nevertheless,
infanticide,
and
willful abortion,
which
is
anticipated in-
fanticide, are
by no means unknown.
Notwithstanding
the severity of the laws, the vigilance of magistrates, and the precautions of every kind with which the lives
of new-born infants are surrounded, crimes of this nature are continually engaging the attention of justice, and leaving room to imagine that those that remain
unknown must attain a still more frightful amount. Need we wonder, then, that infanticides should be com^
law gives the father such abof the child, and where there are not, as among us, numerous institutions of Christian charity, to collect these poor, forsaken little ones, and Let the Foundling tend them with pious solicitude. Hospitals, the Houses of Refuge of various kinds, be suppressed, and it will soon be seen whether the most civilized, gentle, and charitable people of Europe, whose benevolence watches over the misfortunes and miseries of the whole world, would not present a spectacle not What we very different from that now seen in China. have just been relating of the Chinese has a strong resemblance to what, it appears, was passing in Paris in the time of St. Vincent de Paul. " The city of Paris being of such an immense extent, and its inhabitants almost innumerable, there occur among them many disorders which it is not always possible to prevent; and among these one of the most pernicious is the exposure and abandonment of newborn infants, whose unnatural mothers, or other inhuin China, where the solute
mon
power over the
life
man
souls, in peril,
persons, not only place their lives, but also their by not attempting to procure for them

the baptism
tion.
t'hat
335
might bring them into a state of salva-
"No year passes in which three or four hundreds are not found exposed in the city and suburbs, and according to the orders of the police, it is the business of the commissioners of the Chatelet to pick up these forsaken
children,
and take notes of the place and the circumto a
They used formerly house called IM Couche, in the Eue St. Landry, where they were received by a certain widow, who lived there, with one or two servants, and underto
stances in which they are found.
cany them
took the charge of them

to so great a
but not being able to attend
number, or keep nurses to suckle them, or bring up those who were weaned, for want of sufficient
funds, the greater part of these poor children perished ; and sometimes the attendants, to escape the annoyance
'
of their cries, gave them drugs to put them to sleep that

killed
them.
given to
Those who escaped any body that came to ask
this
for
danger were them, and sold
for the smallest
sums, even for as little as twenty sous. were They bought in this way sometimes to make them suck diseased women, whose corrupt milk soon killed
;
them
families,
or to introduce as supposititious children into There- are or with various bad intentions.
cases, horrible to relate, in
which they have been bought

,
in order to
make use
;
operations
of them in magical and diabolical so that it seems these poor innocents were
There all condemned to death, or something worse. was not one that escaped misfortune, for there was no one who took the least care for their preservation and what is still more deplorable many died without baptism; this widow having declared that she had never caused any one of them to be baptized." "This disorder, so strange in a city so wealthy, so
;
well provided with police, so Christian as Paris, touched
336
the heart of M. Vincent, when it became known to him ; but not seeing very well what was to be done, he spoke to some of the ladies of Charity, and begged them to go to the house, not to discover the evil, for it was already well known, but to see whether it was not possible to
provide a remedy for it."* This, then, is the way in which, in the time of St. Vincent de Paul, infants were treated in this wealthy,
and well-ordered city of Paris. then, be surprised to hear of infanticides miserably destitute lower classes of China ?
Christian,
stated, that
Need we, among the
In the accounts of missionaries, it has frequently been it is common in China to see the bodies of infants floating on the waters of the lakes and rivers, or lying on the road, and becoming the prey of unclean
animals.
We
is
of these accounts
the custom
are convinced of the perfect correctness but it must not be supposed that ;
quite so general that
you can not take a
walk without seeing the body of some infant in the jaws That would be a great mistake, and of dogs or hogs. we feel it as a duty to declare that during more than ten years that we were in the habit of traveling about China*, in all directions by land and water, we never saw the body of a single forsaken infant, and AVC certainly did
not go along with our eyes shut. repeat, neverthethat are certain fact we the does occur, and less, quite
We
we should even be among others:
surprised if
it
did not, for this reason
There are in China no places set apart for cemeteries, as there are in Europe; every family inters its own dead on its own ground, and burials are consequently very
expensive, and persons not in good circumstances are often much embarrassed for the means of rendering the
accustomed funeral honors to their

* Life of St.
relatives.
vol.
When
Vincent de Paul, by Louis Abelly,
p. 143.

the deceased
sacrifices
is
337
a father or a mother,
all
imaginable
must be made to obtain a coffin and a suitable funeral. But with respect to dead children there is not the same anxiety, and parents already poor will not
them.
reduce themselves to mendicity for the sake of burying They content themselves therefore with wrapping the body in a piece of matting, and placing it in
the current of a river, in the ravine of some solitary mountains, or even occasionally with leaving it on the road-side, and it is then far from impossible that it may
become the prey of beasts but it would be wrong to conclude, when a body is seen under such circumstances, that it had always been left exposed while liv;
ing,
though that
the case of female infants of

rid themselves,
may happen sometimes, especially in whom the parents wish to but may sometimes hope perhaps that
others will take them.
In the great cities you see near the ramparts crypts intended to receive the dead bodies of infants whom the
They are thrown parents have no means of burying. into these wells, and from time to time quick-lime is
thrown
in also to
consume them.
There have been
instances of unnatural parents throwing girls alive into these pits, but it is gross exaggeration to say that they are filled with living infants whose cries are heard afar
off.
When the imagination is powerfully excited, peohear many things not to be heard by any one else. ple At Pekin, every day just before morning dawns, five carts, each drawn by an ox, traverse the five districts
of the
centre.
town
namely, 'the north, south,

is
signal
made
east, west, and of the passage of the cart,
and those who have children, dead or living, that they wish to put away, bring them out, and give them to The dead are thrown into the above-menthe driver. tioned pit, the living carried to an asylum named Yii-
VOL
II.
338
" yng-tang, or
Temple of the new-born," where nurses
are provided at the expense of the state. These hospitals for forsaken children exist in all towns of any im-
portance.
Many people in Europe are perfectly persuaded of the whole Chinese nation being so brutal and barbarous, that the crime of infanticide is tolerated among
them by government and public opinion. This is not The murder of infants is regarded as a crime in China, and the magistrates have never ceased to
the case.
raise their voices against this horrible abuse of paternal authority. Of this the following Edict placarded in Canton toward the end of 1848 may serve as one
proof.
"EDICT AGAINST INFANTICIDE.

" The Criminal Judge of the province of Kouangforbids the abandonment of female intong strictly fants, and orders that people shall cease this detestable I have learned custom, and fulfill the duties of life. that in Canton and its environs the abominable pracof exposing female infants, in some cases because the family is poor, and can not maintain a numerous offspring, in others because the parents desire
tice prevails
a son, and fear that the care to be bestowed by the mother when a girl is born, may tend to retard another birth.
Although there exist many establishments
to receive foundlings of the feminine sex, this revolting a practice which is an outrage to practice still prevails
morals and civilization, and which" breaks the harmony of heaven.
"I therefore severely prohibit it, and urge the following considerations. " Consider the insects, fish, birds, and wild beasts ; all love their little ones. How then can you massacre those
339
who
are formed of your
own
?
blood,
and who are
to
you
as the hairs of your head
"Do
not
make
yourself uneasy on account of your
poverty, for you can by the labor of your cure for yourselves some resource, and
hands prothough it may
be difficult for you to many your daughters, that is no reason for abandoning them. The two powers of heaven and earth forbid it. Children of both sexes belong to the order of heaven, and if a girl is born to you, you ought to bring her up, even though she may not be worth as much as a boy. If you kill her, how can you hope to have sons ? Will you not have to fear the consequences of your unworthy conduct, and espeYou stifle cially the decrees of the justice of heaven ? but will of this when it is love, your paternal you repent
too late.
"I am
a judge
full
of benevolence, goodness,
all, if
and
you have daughters, to bring them up with care ; or if you are too poor for this, send them to the foundling hospitals, or give them to some friend who may bring them up for you. If you
commiseration.
are
You
abandon them, you
shall, as soon as you are found out, be punished according to the laws, for you are unnatural parents, and for the crime of the murder of your children
you
this
unworthy of any indulgence. Discontinue, then, custom of devoting your children to death ; cease to commit this bad action, and to draw on yourselves reproof and calamity. " Let every one obey this special edict." We might quote a great number of proclamations of the first Mandarins of the Empire, which speak in repare
robation of the conduct of parents unnatural enough to put their girls to death, and which threaten them with
all
the rigors of the law.
These proclamations certainly themselves show how
S40
frequent infanticides must be in China, but at the same time they afford a proof that Government and public The Foundling opinion do not favor such crimes.
Hospitals alluded to also testify to the certain amount of solicitude in the Chinese administration toward these
unfortunate
theless,
little
creatures.
We know very well, never-
that these establishments afford a very poor resource, and can by no means remedy so extensive an
evil
;
too
it,
busy
the Mandarins and officers of the hospital are far in making as much money as they can out of
to attend
much
to the treatment of the children.
good government might certainly do much for the welfare of these establishments, which have existed in China for ages, and of which the pagan nations of the West never had even the idea. It is said that in Lacedemon, according to the laws of the sage Lycurgus, every child, at its birth, was examined with care, and if it appeared ill-formed, thrown into an abyss at the
throwing their slaves to them, had assuredly no very tender and compassionate feelings toward small children. Even the Chinese have not yet Their government at least protests reached that point. constantly against every attempt on human life, and if
it is
foot of Taygetus. in their ponds by
The Romans, who
fattened the fish
powerless to oppose a sufficient barrier to this progressive evil, it. is because, to withdraw men from vice and lead them to virtue, something more is required than
In worldly motives and philosophical considerations. every province of China the government has expressed some interest in the fate of forsaken children, and if
these
works of beneficence,
however excellent and
praiseworthy in themselves, appear struck with sterility, it is because the religious idea, the vital spark of faith, is to vivify them and render them fruitful. wanting
The
Society of
Holy Infancy, founded
at Paris only a
341
few years ago, by the zeal and charity of M. de Forbin Janson, has already perhaps saved in China a greater number of children, than the immense revenues of all
It is beautiiul, it is the hospitals of this vast Empire. glorious for Catholic France, thus to watch with gener-
ous solicitude over the children of foreign nations, even of those who reject with disdain the benefits of her inexhaustible charity.
to
Happy is
the childhood of Catholic
Europe, religion has thus inspired in their earliest years the heroic sentiments of beneficence and self-sacrifice. Society may count upon a generation,
thus warmly interested in the salvation of infants abandoned at the other extremity of the world, and whose touching and marvelous works are making their
influence felt in the
whom
most distant
countries.
Strange
indeed
is it,
be now
that this Society of Holy Infancy should struggling with more success against the prac-
tice of infanticide,
than the Emperor of China, with

his legions of Mandarins.
all
his treasures
and
CHAPTER
The Vinegar Polypus
X.
The Guard-house
his Steed
Uncultivated Tracts in the Province of Kiang-si
Theft of Water-melons Arrival at Nan-tchang-fou Mode of installing one's Solemn Public Supper self in the Palace of Literary Composition Disappointment of the Spectators Visit of the Prefect of the
The Mandarin and
Town
Mongol Mandarin His geographical Knowledge Labors of the Protestant Methodists in China Chinese Astronomers Aspect of the Capital of Kiang-si Manufacture of Porcelain Chinese Antiquaries Origin of the God of Porcelain Pisciculture in Kiangsi
New
traveling Arrangements.
FROM
the
Lake Pou-yang
to
Nan-tchang-fou, the
capital of the province of Kiang-si, the country that
we
traveled through for two days, was a mere desert, in which were seen here and there a few wretched huts
built of reeds
and some patches of ground half

peasants.
its
culti-
vated
fort
by poor
Considered in relation to com-
nothing could well be more gloomy appearance ; afc far as our eyes could reach we saw nothing but vast prairies scantily covered with dry yellowish grass, that crumbled to dust
civilization,
and
and desolate than
beneath our feet

habit the
travelers,
bles..
name
of inn
the dilapidated sheds, to which from is given, offer no refreshment to
rige boiled in water, and salt vegetadid not find even tea, and those who had forgotten to bring a little store with them had to drink hot water. This country, therefore, as may be sup-
but red
We
posed,
precisely calculated for a Journey of and pleasure yet our two days' march across this wild and desert track was a real refreshment to us, a source
;
was not
of that vague sweet melancholy feeling that is often so
343
It seemed to us as if we were soothing to the heart. once more wandering amidst the wild solitudes of Mongolia.
The manners
flocks
of those
;
nomadic
tribes,
their
the long caravans of camels, the tall grass of the desert, the grunting ox of Thibet, the yellow sheep, the Buddhist monasteries with their numerous Lamas, all these recollections gradually
tents, their
and herds
grouped themselves together, and furnished to our im-
had aginations most charming and varied pictures. been so long whirled about in the restless crowds of the
civilized Chinese, that our
We
minds had need of
this calm-
agitation of so many at last almost thrown us into a fever, had towns great and for some days the peaceful silence of the desert was
delightful.
ness and repose.
The tumult and
Before arriving at Nan-tchang-fou, we stopped at a sort of guard-house, to allow the hottest time of the day to pass, and we were very graciously received by a
Mandarin with a white ball, who had about fifteen solThe refreshments that he diers under his command. offered us were indeed in that weather not very tempting, tea, rice-wine, roasted pistachio nuts, preserved gin-
and pickled chives ; all these things did not seem likely to quench our intense and burning thirst, and we
ger,
gazed mournfully at these Chinese dainties, without The Weeping Willow, indeed, daring to touch them. drank hot wine and boiling tea, munched the chives and the ginger, smoked one after another five or six pipes of tobacco, and found himself afterward perfectly refreshed. Our tongues and throats really seemed to dry more and more as we looked at him. up inquired of the White Ball, whether it would not be possible to procure any where a little cold water ?
We
"Yes,"
deep
replied he,
well,
"a few yards from here there is a very and the water is excellent, but as cold as ice;
344

it
you must warm
little
before drinking
it,
otherwise
it
will certainly give you the colic." begged him to send for some, promising to take every precaution against any illness it might occasion, and a good-natured soldier
We
took a large
pail,
and ran
to
draw us some of
this dan-
gerous water.
then asked whether perhaps there " I have Avas any vinegar in the establishment. some," he said, "but I am afraid you will not like it, it is
!
We
"Polypolypus vinegar, made by the animal itself." pus vinegar ; oh we are acquainted with that ; it is the But how does it happen best vinegar that can be got. that you possess such a treasure as a tsou-no-dze (vineWere you ever on the coast of Leaogar polypus) ? some "Yes, years ago I was sent on an expetong?" dition into that country, and I brought back a tsou-nodze with me." During this conversation the soldier arrived with the pail of ice-cold water ; the White Ball gave us some of his wonderful vinegar, and with the help of a little brown sugar we compounded an exquisite beverThe Chinese gazed at us with astonishment as age. we drank it. How it happened that these numerous and abundant libations, instead of occasioning colic only cheered and refreshed us, they could not understand, and they could only get over the difficulty by declaring that the people of the West had a totally different organization from that of the Central Nation. This tsou-no-dze is a creature, that on account of its extraordinary property of making excellent vinegar, merits It is a monstrous assemblage particular mention. of fleshy and glutinous membranes, tubes, and shapeless appendages that give it a very ugly and repulsive appearance ; you would take it for an inert dead mass, but when touched, it contracts and dilates and assumes various It is an animal whose structure and character forms.

are not better
345
known than
that of the other polypi.
This
found in the Yellow Sea, and the Chinese fish for it on the coasts of Leao-tong, but it is rather scarce. Possibly it may be more abundant in some other
tsou-no-dze
is
places,
where
it is
neglected from ignorance of
its
peculiar
property.
This polyp is placed water, to which a few after twenty or thirty formed into excellent
in a large vessel filled with fresh glasses of spirits are added, and days this liquid is found trans-
vinegar, without going through

is
any other
process,
and without the addition of the smallas clear as spring water, taste. After the
est ingredient.
The vinegar
very strong,
first
and of a very agreeable

off
transformation the source appears inexhaustible,

it is
for as
drawn
by degrees
for
consumption,
it is
add an equal quantity of pure water, without any more spirit, and the vinegar remains equally
only necessary to
good.
The
tsou-no-dze, like the other polypi, is easily pro;
pagated by germination you detach a limb, which vegetates and grows, and in a short time is found to possess the same property of changing water into vinegar. These details are not only based on the best information we have been able to collect, but we ourselves possessed one
of these polypi, and kept it for a year, using constantly At our departthe delicious vinegar it distilled for us. ure for Thibet, we presented it to the Christians of our mission in the Valley of Black Waters. the lemonade thus obtained
After having abundantly quenched our thirst with we bade adieu to the gracious White Ball of the guard-house. " Since you have
honored my*poor dwelling," said he, "I will ask the favor of accompanying you as., far as the river which passes by Nan-tchang-fou." "We can not permit such an expenditure of kindness on your part." "The Rites
846
"Ah! you are not a man of Kiang-se, require it." are since you willing to extend the demands of the Rites instead of limiting them!"
"No! I am originally from the poor ince of Sse-tchouen."
" Sse-tchouen and in our opinion
!
and humble prov-
We
it is
have traversed that province,
the Empire.
self
man
the finest, richest province of of Sse-tchouen can not find him-
very pleasantly situated in Kiang-si, especially in such a desert as this district." " Every thing Kiang-si offers indeed few resources. is dearer than in the other provinces, and in fact it is
the practice of Government only to send here
rins
whom
it
wishes to punish.
MandaEvery one knows
that."
This
little
conclude that our dear
piece of confidence gave us the right to White Ball himself had been in a
manner put in the corner when he was sent to Kiang-si. "We must hope," said we, "that you will not remain long here, and that the Emperor will give you in a better country a post more appropriate to your virtues and merits." "I was not born under a happy influence. Success appears to fly from me, but perhaps your good words
will bring
me
better fortune."
While we were thus talking with mutual compliments, a soldier was saddling a lean horse that was kept tied
few yards from the guard-house, though such a precaution appeared quite unnecessary, as there was not much danger of his running away. As soon as he was saddled they dragged him toward the Mandarin of the White Ball, who jumped upon his back
to a stake a
pretty nimbly.
staggered under the load, although the cavalier was not of excessive dimensions ; and we
The poor animal
347
could not make out how he was to accompany us, if he were mounted in that fashion. "Come," he cried, "let us set off," and at the same tune he hit his courser a thump on the head with the handle of his whip. The animal shook his ears, sneezed, executed a few heavy gambols, and then returned to his former state of majestic immobility. " Come," cried the ardent cavalier again, " are you not going to get into your palanquins ? Do let us set off." "Directly," said we " do you try to go on before us, for it is easy to see that your quadruped will hardly be able to keep up with our bearers."
;
"Yes," said the White Ball, "that's it, I will go and again he bestowed a vigorous cuff on the head of the steed, who made two or three jumps forward, and then stumbled and fell on his knees as if to entreat his rider to leave him to his repose. The miliMandarin and stretchhis neck, tary glided softly along his out his measured in the middle of arms, ing length the road. While the rider was employed in picking himself up again, the horse returned with the most perfect composure to his beloved stake, which he contemThe Mandarin plated in the most affectionate manner. was not at all discouraged, but merely observed, " the stupid beast stumbled, we will try again;" and as he spoke he contrived once more to seat himself on his high-mettled racer, which two of the soldiers had dragged forward again, while a third was belaboring him behind with a broomstick. At last they succeeded in getting him into motion, and then we entered our palanquins and followed, but he remained all the way so far behind that no one would have dreamed that he was supposed
first,"
form part of our company. There are very few horses in the south of China, as private people do not make use of them either for travto
348
cling or for rural labor.
At
certain distances
on the
with relays, established for principal roads you meet the service of Government, and these horses come from Tartary, and are in general of a pretty good breed, but
tries
they can not well endure the heat of the southern counin a few years they lose their strength, and be;
come
at last completely unserviceable. After two hours' march we arrived on the banks of a
On the opposite bank was great river named Tchang. the town of Nan-tchang-fou, the capital of the province of Kiang-si. large ferry-boat lay ready to carry us
across,
and our whole caravan entered
it,
with the ex-
ception of our supposed companion, the Mandarin of the White Ball, who was behind, nobody knew how far. At the moment when the boat was about to start,
two of our bearers begged the master to wait a moment, and leaped ashore again. They then immediately ran
to a field of water-melons, stole as
many
as they could
and jumping quickly on board again were soon The owner witnessed the theft, from his out of reach. house that stood but a little way off, and ran after them, but to no purpose, as he was too late. While he was and on the the maraudshore, gesticulating vociferating ers had divided the water-melons among them and were
carry,
refreshing themselves quite at their ease, without troubling themselves at all about the unfortunate proprietor, who cursed them with all the strength of his lungs.
When we had crossed the river Tchang, we found some public functionaries waiting for us on a broad quay that ran the whole length of the suburb. They
entered into conference with the
Weeping Willow, while
we remained
seated in our palanquins, and the crowd
circulated about us, apparently without suspecting that ihcy were exotic personages who had just landed in the
capital of Kiang-si.
The
deliberations of our
men
of
349
we
business were so immoderately prolonged, that at last got out of our boxes, to go and inquire what they
were talking about, and why they kept us so long waitThe Mandarins of the place had not ing in the street.
it appeared, made up their minds as to where we were to lodge, and they were consequently endeavoring to get some advice from the Willow, who certainly would not be able to relieve them from their perplexity.
yet,
The passers-by immediately
noticed the strangeness of our costume, and the magic yellow caps and red girdles did not fail to produce their effect. An immense crowd
had soon collected round

official
us.
"See!"
said
we
to the
personage of Nan-tchang-fou, "the lower classes of the people are already assembling from all corners upon the quay; is it proper that we should not yet
know where we are to lodge ?" The Mandarins, already bewildered by the concourse of people, did not know what to do, but our servant
Wei-chan came up and pointed out to us a large stately "That, "he said, "was a Wen-tchang-koun, building.
or Palace of Literary Composition."
We
had,
it
will
be remembered, already lodged once during our journey at one of these establishments, and we had a very agreeable recollection of
it.
We
did not deliberate
much
longer therefore, but resolved to go and install ourselves To succeed in our attempt nothing more was rethere.
quired than a little steadiness, and we returned accordingly to our palanquins, and called out to the bearers in the most imperious tone we could command, "to the
"
Wen-tchang-koun "To the Wen-tchang-koun?" they repeated; "we obey," and immediately they took up the palanquins, and Wei-chan, who perfectly understood these sudden evolutions, put himself at the head of the convoy, shouting to the crowd to make way with all due respect.
!
850

of the multitude divided as
if by enchantand Mandarins of the Willow the Weeping town, who had not yet made up their minds, followed us by a kind of instinct all the other members of the caravan did the same, and we entered thus the palace
The waves
ment, the
which
of Literary Composition with that "haughty majesty" is so much to the taste of the Chinese.
The guardians of the establishment, seeing a procession arrive, escorted by an immense crowd, of course supposed the new-comers were persons of distinction. The
us,
and
folding doors were all thrown wide open to admit after having traversed several halls and corridors,
we stopped at the most remote, by the contrivance of Wei-chan, who conducted the enterprise with marvelous
then issued from our palanquins, and audacity. desired to see the chief-guardian of the Wen-tchang" koun. Open the superior apartments directly," said
We
" and shall remain we, prepare the evening meal. Let every one do his duty, and then here some days. all will be content."
We
who had come
then addressed the functionaries of the town, to receive us at the quay, but who had "Do you," said we, "go no idea what to do with us.
to the prefect of the city, tell
We
him that we
are in the
enjoyment of good health, and that we have installed ourselves at the Wen-tchang-koun, in a manner conformable to our tastes."
We concluded with a profound
bow
who departed looking extremely mystified, and as if they were made to play a part that they did not in the least understand.
to the variously-colored balls,
When every one else was gone, the Weeping Willow remained planted before us without saying a word, his little tearful eyes twinkling curiously, and seeming about " Master to ask what we were going to do with him.
Lieou," said
AVC,
"you had
to conduct us to the capital
351
of Kiang-si; we are arrived at that capital, and your mission therefore is finished where are you going to
;
lodge?" " Where

air
am I going to lodge ?" he repeated with an of open-mouthed astonishment. "How do I know?" " You have certainly a better right to know than any
else."
body
is possible, but nevertheless I do know noit." about thing " Go and look for the head keeper of the establishment ; he will put you somewhere. To-morrow we shall most likely have a visit from some of the authorities,
"That
and you can
settle
your
affairs
with them."
The Willow thought there was some sense in what we said, and went in search of the keeper accordingly, while we ascended the stairs to take a view of the lodging that
thus appropriated. the assistance of some of the servants with Wei-chan,
we had
had already put every thing in order in the and spacious apartments which overlooked the town as well as the course of the river that we had just crossed, and the surrounding country.
of the house,
cool
An open gallery, provided with large porcelain seats, and vases of flowers, looked on the quay, where the crowd had assembled around us while the Willow and We took a the Mandarins carried on their debate. few turns backward and forward in this charming gallery; the sun had just set, and the delicious freshness of the evening was beginning to make itself felt. Some of the Chinese, who were still stationed on the quay, perceived us ; the news flew round with the speed
of lightning, and soon all heads were held as high in the air as possible, and all eyes were directed toward the
Every one that passgallery of the Wen-tchang-koun. ed stopped to contemplate us at leisure, and by de-
352
there was no grees the crowd became so dense, that As we had so elevated possibility of passing at all.
a position, at so great a distance from the multitude, we could not be inconvenienced by their looks, eager as they were ; and we therefore quietly continued our promenade,
happy
to
be able to
satisfy,
without inconven-
ience, the very legitimate curiosity of the inhabitants were only deprived of the adof Nan-tchang-fou. the of conversation, in which there hearing vantage
We
doubtless occurred
tions.
many
curious and interesting reflec-
The Maitre d'Hotel of the Wen-tchang-koun now came

to inform us that the supper was ready, we would please to have it served.
and
to
ask where
We
ring to both,
looked at one another, the same thought occurand inquired whether there would be any
it
inconvenience in our taking it on this gallery. "None at all," he replied; "on the contrary,
will
be lighter and cooler here, and besides, the Hundred families* collected down there will be able to see you." As we asked nothing better than to be agreeable to the " hundred families," especially when they kept at a respectful distance, it was resolved that we should sup in
the open
air.
A brilliantly varnished
the attendants
table
;
was brought and placed
in the middle of the gallery
served
when the crowd obon it numerous little placing dishes of dainties, by which Chinese repasts are usually commenced, a loud murmur arose all along the quay, and they evidently anticipated great amusement from
and,
seeing in
their food.
what fashion the Western Devils consumed
They expected
curious.
Men from beyond
to see something extremely the seas, and with such sin-
gular physiognomies, must certainly eat and drink in * " Hundred families" is a Chinese phrase, meaning the people.
353
a manner quite unknown to the people of. the Central Nation. Our prayer before the meal, and especially the
two signs of the cross, drawn on a large scale, promised them from the commencement something interesting. Amidst these innumerable spectators there must have been some who understood the meaning of this sign, for
there are Christians at Nan-tchang-fou, but the majority must have considered this a very odd way to begin supper.
They
expected, therefore, to get a glimpse into
European manners. Wei-chan brought us the rice-wine smoking hot in a pewter urn, and poured out some little porcelain cups of it, which we drank in the most scrupulous conformWe then began to pick some melonity to the Rites. as if we had been born on the borders seeds, exactly of the Yellow River, instead of the Garonne. The somewhat to take less inastonished, spectators, began all this was familiar to them. terest in our manoeuvres We passed some time in drinking these little cups of rice-wine, and crunching the melon-seeds ; not that we
in the habit of doing so, we generally directed our attention to what was more substantial; but this time, either from vanity, and the desire to display
Avere
to
our knowledge of their customs, or out of mischief, disappoint the curious gazers, we resolved to eat
and drink in the most rigorously orthodox Chinese

fashion.
of the worthy inhabitants of was Xan-tchang-fou complete when they saw us adjust
The disenchantment
our ivory chop-sticks between our fingers with perfect ease and gravity, and, seizing little morsels here and there, carry them dexterously to our mouths, and go
through our exercise with these instruments as if we had done nothing else all our lives there was a movehave ment among the crowd as much as to say,
"We
354
been prettily taken in ; those men are not nearly such barbarians as we thought ; they might almost belong
to the
Flowery Kingdom."
the exhibition thus
by no means realized all that had promised, the disappointed crowd after a time began to disperse, and soon there remained no one on the quay but some dealers in fruit and provisions, and a few idle people, who smoked their pipes, casting glances from time to time, with an observant eye, upon the two French missionaries, who, stimulated by excellent appeit
As
tites,
were dexterously disposing of the minute dainties served up to them. As we were about to rise from table, we beheld a
procession of Mandarins draw up before the gate of the In a few minutes an officer of the establishment palace.
appeared upon the balcony, and presented us with a sheet of red paper, on which was inscribed the name of
the prefect of the district. "Invite him to enter," we said ; and the magistrate immediately presented himself, accompanied by the functionaries of his tribunal. After
the usual salutations and compliments, the prefect, whose face showed him to be of Mantchou-Tartar descent, re-
quested to
know why we had
established ourselves at
the Wen-tchang-koun. " Because, when we landed on this side of the river, our escort were unable to tell where we should go," was
" we therefore chose the Wen-tchang-koun." "These people were very stupid! Your lodging was prepared in the centre of the town." "We are obliged for your attention, but we do not think the lodging in the interior of the town can be so We Europeans like fresh air, and agreeable as this. this balcony suits us admirably." "No doubt the situation is most agreeable in the heat of summer ; but this building is not quite at the
our reply
;
355
disposal of the municipal authorities ; it is the property of the Literary Corporation." know it; and we also know that the Literary Corporation delights in the exercise of those social
"We
which are inculcated in the sacred and classic The literati and Bachelors of Arts in all civilwritings.
virtues
ized countries are scrupulously observant of the rites of If you should ever deign hospitality toward strangers.
to visit the
of the country
humble Empire of France, the learned men would not fail to lodge you in every
cried the
Wen-tchang-koun on your route." "Ah! I am unworthy! I am unworthy!"

prefect,
with a shower of quick little bows. "Neverhe a vertical theless," continued, resuming position,
"I came
town."
to invite
you
to the lodging I
have prepared in the
to leave this palace, and repair interior of the
"Ah! we
are
" You see we, executing in our turn a great many bows. how comfortable we are ; reason invites us to remain, and the Rites, which are founded on reason, enjoin you
to leave us in peace." "Well said! very well said!" cried the Mandarin, " I see that it will be difficult to persuade laughing.
unworthy so much attention!"
replied
you "
to leave the
Wen-tchang-koun."
; ;
not think of
less
almost impossible you had better more let us talk of something else." any The advice was taken, and the conversation turned to
Very
difficult
it
spoke of our travels, of embarrassing topics. China, of the countries of the West in short, a little of every thing. The prefect was most agreeable, and
said not another
We
word about turning us
out,
which com-
plaisance
we rewarded by
panying him
Composition."
the polite attention of accomto the gate of the " Palace of Literary
356

position
was thus triumphantly established at Nan-tchang-fou, and all that remained for us to do was
Our
to arrange the rest of our
journey to Canton.
The next
day and the following day we passed in the capital of Kiang-si, and we were visited by many Mandarins, and by the chiefs of the learned body whose palace we occupied. Every one was very obliging, nor did they find fault with our manner of installing ourselves in the Wen-
They contented themselves with laughing good-naturedly at the neatness and decision with which we had got out of our difficulties, and the cool mantchang-koun.
ner in which
we had
Among
the numerous visitors
established ourselves to our liking. we received at Nan-
tchang-fou,
there was one who interested us by his almost rough, savage behavior, which was without a
tinge of the supple, insincere courtesy that characterizes the Chinese.
were one day reclining on porcelain seats in our balcony, breathing the fresh air from the river, and watching the passers-by on the quay below, when a young Mandarin entered abruptly, without being announced, bade us good day with a proud and independent bow, to which we were unaccustomed in China, and, pushing forward a bamboo seat with his foot, sat down
We
were at first inclined to recall him opposite us. to the observance of the Rites, and to soften a forcibly little the bluntness of his behavior. But his countenance pleased us
;
We
it
was
lively, intelligent, full of can-
dor and integrity, and we thought that his conduct might denote a haughty character, but not necessarily
an impudent one. "You treat us like old friends," we said; "between

friends etiquette is superfluous." "The Chinese are very ceremonious," replied he; "but I am not a Chinese, I am a Mongol."
357
it.
"A Mongol! Ah! we ought to have guessed We ourselves have spent a good deal of time in the Land
of Grass we are acquainted with the Eight Banners, and have pitched our tents in all the pastures of Tartary, from the great Kouren, near the Kalkhas, to the Koukounoor on the shores of the Blue Sea." At the sound of these names, so poetical and sweet
;
to the ears of a Tartar of the Steppes, the young Mongol rose in a transport of delight, seizing our hands,
and patting us on the shoulder, to

ship.
testify his friend-
" What," he exclaimed, you know the great Kouren and the Koukou-noor ? You have encamped in the Land of Grass ? No doubt you can speak the Mongol
language."
"
"Yes, brother," we replied, "we understand the tongue of Tchinggis and Tim our." From that moment Chinese was set aside, and the This young man conversation carried on in Mongol.
belonged to one of the noblest families of the tribe of Gechekten, with which we had resided for two years. Probably we had met him more than once during our
He told us, that having gone journeys in the desert. Pekin in the suite of his sovereign, when the tributary princes paid their annual visit to the Emperor at
to
the
commencement of the
year, he
had been seized with
His aim was to learn a desire to stay in the capital. its Chinese, study literature, and, having passed the necessary examinations, to enter the magistracy.
After several years' study, he had obtained the degree of bachelor, and a few months before meeting us
had been sent as supernumerary Mandarin to a tribunal

of the capital of Kiang-si. Perhaps our old predilection for the Mongols influenced us, but we thought there was something superior
358
to the "Chinese character in this child of the desert.

civilization of Pekin, engrafted
The
disposition, appeared to
have
this strong, vigorous produced a new type, unit-
on
ing and blending with advantage Chinese intelligence and penetration with the rough frankness and energy
of the
Mongol
Tartars.
we spent at Nan-tchang-fou we saw several times, and his society was Mandarin young His conversation recalled most agreewelcome. always time had the we ably spent in the deserts of Tarlong He was also tary. intelligent and well informed, and
During the time
this
and especially
quite free from that affected disdain for foreign countries, for the men and things of Europe, which
On the contrary, he listened attentively, and with sincere admiration, to all that we told him of the nations of the West. He even went so far as to ask us whether in coming from France to China we had followed the route round Cape Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, or through the Red Sea. " Sea voyages must be very comfortable when you are used to " but for them," said he ; my part, if I wanted to reach I rather would travel with a caravan, in your country, I should start from Pekin, and the Mongol fashion. cross the desert to Kiaktha, on the frontiers of Siberia. Thence I should traverse the kingdom of the Oros (Russians), and the various Western States, until I reached the grand Empire of France." " And if you wished to visit the In-ki-li ?" (English). " I know that the country of the Red-haired peoOh, is surrounded ple by water on all sides. They are islIf I wished to visit them, I should sell my anders. camels and hire a fire-junk" (steamboat).
the Chinese love to exhibit.
We
did not inform

for
ing purchasers that city in his estimation.
him of the improbability of findcamels in Paris, lest it should lower
359
Of late years there is a remarkable tendency among the educated Chinese to the study of geography and
of foreign nations, and this appears to us an immense step toward the development among them of the taste
for European science. Since the war with the English, there have appeared several very complete Chinese geographies, containing very correct information concern-
ing the various parts of the world, and especially the kingdoms of Europe. It is evident that a European
hand has been engaged in their composition, and from the flattering strain with which the United States are mentioned in them, it is strongly to be suspected that
an American has had something to do with these publications.
The Methodist
ministers,
who
lie
in
ambush
in all
the five ports open to Europeans, having remarked that the prodigious quantity of Bibles furtively scattered
along the shores of the Empire have not proved remarkably efficacious in working the conversion of the Chinese, have at last given up this harmless and useless system of Propagandism. They seem convinced now
that bales even of well-bound and cautiously-distributed Bibles, will not make much impression on the
Chinese nation, and they have lost some of their faith in the miraculous effect of this measure. However,
their vocation being to print books and disperse them, they have composed certain little scientific works, by
which they hope to captivate the minds of the Chinese. In 1851, a few days before our departure from China,
we chanced
It
was simply a
to get sight of one of these productions. technical treatise on the Electric Tele*
graph.
Truly, a man must be profoundly ignorant of the Chinese nation to offer such a book for its instruction.
The theory
of the Electric Telegraph for
men whose
360
JOUUXEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
language does not even contain terms to express the

simplest
ible.
We
phenomena of
is
electricity
feel assured,
It is scarcely credthat throughout the Celestial

!
nation there
this
not one
man
capable of understanding
work; for, in order to express new ideas, the author has had recourse to new combinations of characters,
forming a very original jargon, which the Chinese will not be 'in a hurry to construe. Doubtless
every body must wish for the moment when the Chinese shall abandon their ancient prejudices, and cultivate the
modern
sciences
but
all
instruction ought to
proceed methodically, wlrich Methodists at least should understand. Would there be a single Christian in China
if
the Catholic missionaries, instead of teaching the cate-
chism to their neophytes, had begun by placing in their hands a treatise on grace, with dissertations on the Jansenist heresy?
This proceeding has been adopted partly in consequence of a false idea of the Chinese which has been Because they are said to know conceived in Europe.
how
to calculate eclipses,
and so held
in high favor
some
Jesuit astronomers
who
visited the court in the first
reigns of the Mantchou dynasty, it has been supposed that the nation was devoted to astronomic science, and
consisted of three hundred millions of Aragos,

less busied
more
or
with stars and planets. And yet if there is on the earth a nation absorbed by the affairs of this
world, and
who
trouble themselves
little
it is
about what
passes among The most erudite Chinese.
the heavenly bodies,
assuredly the
just know of the existence of astronomy, or as they call it, tien-wen "celestial literature." But they are ignorant .of the
among them
simplest principles of the science, and those who regard an eclipse as a natural phenomenon, instead of a dragon
who
is
seeking to devour the sun and moon, are enlight-

ened indeed.
so
it
361
much power
If foreign astronomers formerly exercised at the court, and enjoyed such fame, is
not a proof that the native professors of the science
Until the Jesuits came to their were incompetent? assistance, they were unable to draw up a good almanac, and since their expulsion from Pekin, the members of; the Tribunal of Mathematics have relapsed into their former ignorance, and every year government is obliged to send the almanac to Canton, to be corrected by EuThe Chinese, we are convinced, would have ropeans.
great aptitude for all the sciences.
From
then: quick
penetration and incomparable patience, they would make but hitherto they have studied nothing rapid progress for its own sake, they look only on the practical and
;
productive side of things. Physiology, chemistry, asare considered mathematics, tronomy, only in their bear-
In their hands every thing becomes ing upon sapecks. a trade. If the books on astronomy and electricity,
that the Methodists compose for them, furnished recipes for amassing a large fortune in a short time, they
would soon conquer their repugnance to study them. They would listen very attentively to any one who should teach them how to augment their incomes, but would
laugh in derision at a proposal merely to increase their knowledge: they would consider such an offer merely as a bad joke.
We took
advantage of our leisure time to view Nan-
tchang-fou, which is one of the most celebrated of the

provincial towns. in 1840, but secretly,
a very correct
it
had already passed through it and in too great a hurry to have idea of it. Like other Chinese towns,
We
monuments worthy of attention. a few triumphal arches, erected and Pagodas, tribunals, in honor of widows and virgins, form its most striking architectural works. The streets are large and tolerably VOL. II Q
contains no public
S02
and shops magnificently adorned the whole, the town is the most the capiregular and handsome, next to Tching-tou-fou, tal of Sse-tchouen, that we saw throughout the Empire. Although Kiang-si is a poor province, incapable of selfclean, the Avarehouses
and
laid out.
On
commerce of Nan-tchang-fou is considerThis results from its position on the line of communication between the great centres of population and Pekin. activity, such as Nan-kin, Canton, Han-keou, and All goods from the north or the south must go by Nansupport, the
able.
tchang-fou.
When we
among
call
agricultural produce,
Kiang-si a poor province, we refer to for its manufactures have been
the most important in China for centuries past.
This province contains all the largest porcelain factories, and Nan-tchang-fou is naturally the repository for the
sale of their productions.
filled
It contains several
immense
with china and porcelain of every kind, shops, from those great urns covered with richly colored reliefs,
representing various scenes in Chinese life, to tiny cups, so frail and delicate, that they have been called egg.
shell china.
The chief porcelain factory is at King-te-tching, east of Pou-yang, on the banks of the great river which falls into that lake. King-te-tching is not a regular town, not being surrounded by walls. Nevertheless, it contains more than a million of inhabitants, almost all employed in the manufacture of china.
describe the bustle
It is difficult to
and
the town.
All day
activity that reigns throughout long clouds of smoke and columns
of flame ascending from its chimneys, and at night the
whole place appears on fire a stranger would imagine it was one immense More than five hunconflagration. dred separate factories, and thousands of furnaces, are constantly at work upon the china vases, which are sent
363
in prodigious quantities into all the provinces of China,
and thence all over the world. In this, as in all Chinese manufactures, the division of labor is carried to an infinitesimal extent. Each
workman has
certain flower
color,
his particular department

;
another, a bird
another the blue.
one paints a ; one lays on the red
china vase,
when
finished
and ready for sale, has passed tlirough the hands of more than fifty different workmen. Father D'Entrecolles, who was intrusted with the mission to Kiang-si in the beginning of the 18th century,
and had, therefore, often occasion to visit King-te-tching, where a number of the workmen have embraced Christianity, has furnished us with very curious and detailed
accounts of the manufacture of china. By the assistance of these precious documents and numerous specimens of kao-lin and pe-tun-ze* our manufacturers suc-
ceeded at last in making a perfect copy of the Chinese and Japanese vases, which were so long the envy and despair of the European imitators.
The manufacture
of china dates from a very ancient
It was already in a period in the Celestial Empire. flourishing condition under the dynasty of Han, about
era; and Chinese beautiful antiquaries possess specimens dating from that time. are not as They transparent as those made
the
commencement of the Christian

still
more
at present, but the enamel is finer, and the coloring vivid. Amateurs preserve specimens of some
kinds of which the Chinese have lost the secret of fabrication; such as the double cups, in which the outer
part is perforated like lace, and the inner cup solid and of dazzling whiteness. Then there are some ornaments
with magic figures, which are only visible when the vessel is full. These figures are drawn on the inside,
* Essential materials for the manufacture of china.
804
and the colors have undergone a particular preparation, which renders them invisible when dry. There is also a kind of biscuit china, the entire surface of which is
covered with lines crossing in
all
directions, as if the
vase were composed of a thousand different pieces.
It
looks like the most delicate and exquisite of mosaics. The secret of the fabrication of this kind, however, as well as of many others, is now entirely unknown.
According to the Annals of China, the whole art has been completely lost several times in the course of those tremendous revolutions which have so often shaken that Empire to its foundations. It had to be invented anew, and this was not always with as much success as before.
There
is
a class of Chinese amateurs
who
devote them-
selves exclusively to the collection of antique bronzes and porcelain, which they call kou-toung, or "old vase."
They
for the
works of art, but chiefly prized value attached to the things of past mysterious the workmen are cunning enough Chinese ages, though to imitate these kou-toung so as to deceive the most
are esteemed as
practiced eye, and many antiquaries exhibit in their cabinets with the most perfect good faith, pretended ancient porcelain,
which
is
two or three months old
at the
utmost.
The makers
of the
sham kou-toung
After the
first
generally
use a kind of reddish earth.
baking of the vessels they are thrown into a kind of greasy broth, where they undergo a second cooking, and after this they are buried in a sewer, where they lie for forty or In this manner fifty days, and are then dug up again. is prepared most of the "fine old china of the dynasty of Yuen."
The
whose
**
origin is thus described
porcelain manufactory possesses a patron deity, by Father d'Entrecolles

:
As each
profession has
its particular idol, divinity
be-

ing as easily conferred as the
title
865
among certain European
nations,
it is
of count or marquis not surprising that

to
there is a god of porcelain.
He
owes his existence
the following circumstance : It is said that a long time ago a certain Emperor desired to have some china ac-
was represented to him

his orders
his desire.
;
It cording to a particular design, which he furnished. that it was impossible to execute
but remonstrance served only to heighten As an emperor during his lifetime is the
sets
chief
god of China, and
no bounds
to his will, the
master manufacturers redoubled their efforts, and treated the unhappy workmen with the utmost severity, and
these poor creatures lavished their money and their laAt last, bor, getting only kicks and cuffs in return.
furnace,
lain
one of them, in despair, threw himself into the blazing and was immediately consumed, and the porce-
beautiful
which was baking in this fire came out perfectly and quite to the Emperor's taste. Since then
man, at first regarded as a hero, has become the tutelary idol who presides over porcelain It is not stated, however, that his example factories. has led any of his countrymen to aspire to similar honthis unfortunate
ors."
province of Kiang-si possesses another trade, less important and valuable doubtless than the china manufacture,
ity,
The
and the
is
but worthy of remark on account of its peculiarprofits of which are not to be despised. This
;
is
very marshy, and abounds in ponds there a scarcely cottager who can not boast of at least one close to his house, and these are turned to account for
province
fish,
the rearing of
which yield annually a considerable
revenue to their cultivators.
During the last few years much attention has been turned in France to the art of pisciculture, as it has
* Lettres cdifiantcs ct curieuses, vol.
iii.
p. 221.
866

and pains have been bestowed on the artiBut, however new production and rearing of fish. in China. In this art known is well Europeans, very
called,
it is
been
to
ficial
Kiang-si
practiced after the following fashion
In spring a number of men go round the provinces selling spawn. Their establishment consists of a wheelbarrow loaded with barrels containing a thick liquid more like mud than any thing else. It is impossible to distinguish the smallest animalcule in it with the naked eye. For a few sapecks you may buy a bowlful of this mud, enough to sow a large pond ; it is merely tlirown into the water, and in a few days the young come forth. When they have attained some size they arc fed with tender vegetables chopped up and thrown
into the water, the quantity being augmented as they The growth of these fish is incredibly increase in size.
rapid.
In a month at most they are strong and active, and require abundant nourishment. Morning and even-
ing the proprietors of fish-ponds ransack the fields for
which they carry home in enormous fish rise to the surface, and throw themselves eagerly on their food, which they devour speedily, keeping up all the time a kind of murmuring
suitable plants,
quantities.
The
a number of rabbits. Their voracity can that of silk-worms be to only compared just before After fed thus their cocoon. for about spinning being a fortnight they generally attain a weight of two or tliree pounds, after which they grow no more. They are then taken out and sold alive in the towns. The fish-ponds of Kiang-si contain only this one kind of fish, which is of an exquisite flavor ; if there are any
noise, like
other sorts, at least we never saw them, and we are also unaware whether the spawn undergoes any preparation
before
it is
sold.
We
staid five days at Nan-tchang-fou, during
which
367
time our chief occupation was to arrange the rest of our The Governor of the province, the journey to Canton. and the functionaries, civil and miliof the town, prefect us all showed the tary, greatest attention, and took pains
to carry out the plans we had formed. The extreme heat of the weather, and our
own need
of repose, decided us to continue our journey Iby water. From Nan-tchang-fou we could follow the course of a
mountain Mei-ling, which is just half-way, and can be crossed in a single day ; after this, the river Kiang would take us all the rest of
large river as far as the
the
way
to
Canton.
We
knew
that this route
was
infinitely preferable to the land journey, particularly if we were furnished with government junks, and well-
Our efforts were crowned with perfect sucprovisioned. cess ; we were provided with a well-armed vessel of war
for escort,
and
their suite,
and two superb junks, one for the Mandarins and one for ourselves. We had ex-
pressly stipulated that we should be alone, that we might be at ease and free to attend to our exercises, and live
as best pleased us
;
we
took with us our

first-rate artiste^
own
servant
Wei-chan and a cook; a
according to the prefect of Nan-tchang-fou. The commissariat department was arranged by the Governor on a truly sumptuous scale. In order that
we might be
treated perfectly according to our wishes,
he issued a decree enjoining a contribution of five ounces of silver from every town we should pass, a sum amountThis was to be entirely deing to about fifty francs.
voted to the furnishing of our table ; but, as the towns stand close together along this river, we had a large sum It will be seen of money over when we reached Canton.
further on to
It
what use we put it. must be confessed, that the
authorities of
Nan-
tchang-fou behaved very handsomely, and treated us
G8
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIUE.
with extraordinary pomp, and this dignified and liberal conduct contrasts strongly with the shabby treat-
ment of the Russian colonel, who every ten years conducts an embassy from Kiaktha to Pekin. According to a law, which is faithfully executed, the representative of the Czar has a daily allowance of one sheep,
a cup
of wine, a
pound of
tea,
a jar of milk, two
ounces of butter, two fish, a pound of salted vegetables, four ounces of fermented beans, four ounces of
vinegar, one ounce of salt, two saucers of lamp-oil, and once in nine days a Chinese dinner of four courses.
tal of Hou-pe*,
which had accompanied us from the capitook leave of us at Nan-tchang-fou. The Willow bade us a touching farewell, and we Weeping his tearful accepted good wishes with gratitude. As we were about to embark, we were accosted by two worthy citizens, with pleasant, open countenances, who wished us a good journey. We knew 111? moment we looked in their faces with whom we had to do.
escort,
The
"You
"Yes,
are Christians,"
we
said.
father," they replied, looking all
around to see
that they were not observed. hastily asked news of the mission, and of our fellow-laborers, and were then
We
obliged to leave them, to enter our junk. The mission of Kiang-si, intrusted to the brother-
hood of
St. Lazarus,
counts
now
nearly ten thousand
Christians, dispersed throughout the province ; they are in general poor, and very timid. Every year a certain
number of conversions take
place,
of the faith goes on but slowly ; as throughout the Celestial Empire.
but the propagation it does every where
CHAPTER XL
Departure from Nan-tchang-fou
Mandarin Junk
Comfort and
Vehicles and Hotels Fiacre and Cabriolet stands at Pekin Chinese Light Literature Collections of Maxims and Proverbs Passage. of the Mountain Mei-ling Nan-hioung, the Frontier Town Chinese Rope-dancers Little Feet of the Women Origin of this Custom Navigation of the Tigris Recollections of our Entry into China in 1840 View of the Port of Canton European Vessels First Night in Canton Our Martyrdom in Tartary Savings on the Road bestowed upon our Servant Wei-chan Stay at Macao Death of M. Gabet Departure for Pekin Arri-
Luxury of Water-carriage
val at Marseilles in 1852.
THE Junk
on board which we embarked to ascend
the river Tchang was a little floating palace. had a drawing-room, dining-room, and bed-chamber of exquisite cleanliness and luxuriously furnished, and the
paintings and gildings lavishly distributed around were heightened in effect by that beautiful Chinese polish
We
which has not its equal in the world. In the forepart of the vessel were the sailors' quarters and the kitchen, and the men worked the junk and carried on their various occupations without ever coming to our end of the boat. On each side were large windows, curiously cut, and filled in with glass instead of paper a piece of exIt would be impostraordinary magnificence in China. sible to enjoy a more convenient and elegant mode of river navigation than that with which the prefect of Nan-tchang-fou had provided us. Accustomed, during our residence in China, to travel in merchant vessels and transports, we had not supposed the Chinese capable of
;
fitting
up a junk with so much
comfort.
870
The river we were ascending was not very rapid, but when the wind was insufficient or unfavorable, recourse was had to the oars. This was the case the first day. The captain, who
no doubt had received minute instructions concerning the voyage, came to inquire whether we were satisfied with our accommodation, and whether the motion of " We his " ignoble junk" did not disturb our repose. are most comfortable your delightful vessel is a Paradise but the motion is very great toward the stern, and
; ;
the sailors
make a great deal of noise in rowing." "These inconveniences can be removed," said the "I will go and see to it." He made us a low captain
;
bow, and went away. few moments after the noise of the oars ceased, and the junk appeared perfectly motionless ; but on looking out of window, we perceived by the trees on the bank that we were passing rapidly along. seemed moved by magic. The small boat had been launched, and by means of a rattan cable attached to the prow, we were being quietly towed against the current. This was indeed a polite attention ; but we thought it right to tell the captain that it was unnecessary; being accustomed to the navigation of stormy seas, the gentle motion of a junk on a river was little "Whether the sailors row on likely to disturb us. board or in the boat makes no difference to the fatigue,"
We
was the ,captain's reply. "Besides, I only carry out the orders I received at Nan-tchang-fou. It is customary to tow junks when they carry Mandarins of high rank."
You
Such journeys as this are real parties of pleasure. enjoy the most profound and undisturbed tranquillity, and the landscapes which are gradually unfolded along the banks, offer the amusement of an inexhausti-

ble variety. had suffered for
871
We
forgot for some days the fatigue we more than two years. The paternal
goodness of Providence granted us this interval of calmness and repose, as a compensation for our sufferings in
the frightful deserts of Tartary and Thibet, and we accepted these hours of recreation from the hand of God,
with hearts
full
of gratitude, as
trial
we had
received with
resignation those of
and
tribulation.
passed two weeks in our floating hermitage, without once going out of it ; so pleasantly situated were we. When we came to any town liable to contribution,
We
whether lying on the right or left bank of the river, we anchored, and our Mandarin conductors went to the tribunal to demand the prescribed sum. Generally the
payment was made with tolerable exactness ; but there were from time to time some little difficulties to conquer. The functionaries did not always show any remarkable eagerness to bring on board the number of sapecks fixed by the tariff. They sometimes sent us deputations to try and strike a bargain with us, and to allege a thousand and one reasons why they should be dispensed from We were very acfurnishing the whole sum specified.
commodating, and willing to receive absolutely nothing, provided only that they would make out a statement declaring the motives of the refusal, and signed by the auBut no one would ever agree to thorities of the town.
and the matter always ended by their sending the When we became too much encumbered with sapecks. this hard cash, Wei-chan used to get them changed into bank notes, payable to the bearer, and kept them himself under lock and key ; we merely taking a memoranthis,
dum
of their amount.
It is not
customary in China to travel at night, either
by land or water, and every evening we got snugly into Our anchoring was performed with considerable port.
372
The war-frigate used to precede us, and choose a suitable place ; our junk and that of our conductors were brought up alongside; and when every body was ready and in full dress, a gun was fired, and
ostentation.
the ancliors dropped, of course to the accompaniment In the of the tam-tam, and the discharge of fire-works.
to go from one vessel to another to pay The captain of the our traveling companions. an from old was sailor, Fo-kien; and originally frigate we could not manage to keep up very long conversa-
evening
we used
visits to
tions with him, as he only spoke the dialect of his
own
more or
province, mingled with a few Chinese expressions, less disfigured ; so after having exchanged many
gestures and much pantomime witli him, we went on He was a Peboard the junk of the civil Mandarin.
kin citizen of the purest breed, and had most refined and elegant manners, as became a native of the capital of the Flowery Kingdom. By his language, also, it was that to see he came from the metropolis easy but, unluckily, he did not much care to talk, and the
;
melancholy expression of his face made it evident that he was suffering from some keen sorrow. respected his grief, therefore, and contented ourselves with mak-
We
ing him very short and purely ceremonious visits. In the morning as soon as it was daylight, another
gun was fired to announce the moment of our departure, and we began again our delightful trip. Railroads, steamboats, even stage-coaches, and all our rapid means of locomotion, are assuredly marvelous inventions, which every one admires, and which we never fail to appreciate
are in a hurry to get from one place to anbut these hasty journeys are, it must be owned, seldom interesting. may run over the whole world in this way without having much idea of the countries AVC have traversed, or the nations we have visited. In
when we
;
other
We

Europe
at the present
373
day
travelers are forwarded ex-
Henceforward those actly like bales of merchandise. who wish to make traveling a pleasure and a luxury will be obliged to come to China, and get a Mandarin
junk, in which they may glide gently from province to province, over the rivers and canals by which the em-
The rich citizens of the Kingdom of pire is traversed. Flowers find in all the great ports pretty boats, fitted up with all the comforts of Chinese civilization, to be let
These voyages or rather long excursions, are in the easiest style, the travelers stopping wherever convenience or the pleasure of the moment may suggest. As the most important towns are commonly situated on
on
hire.
made
the banks of rivers,
it is
easy by this plan to study the
country, and make yourself acquainted with the manners and customs of the inhabitants. In general the Chinese are not sedentary ; and as, without crossing the
frontiers of their
own
acquainted with almost
country, they can make themselves all climates and all productions
of the earth, though their means of transport are slow and often inconvenient, they are always very ready to set off on a journey. In the southern provinces most
of the traveling is done by water, but with the exception of the aristocratic boats just mentioned, travelers
crowded junks, where they are heaped one upon another, without seeming to think it at all unThey will remain shut up in them for months pleasant. with incomprehensible patience, living on rice boiled in
find only dirty,
and passing their time in smoking and picking Those who are of an economical turn of mind, and wish to spare these luxuries, sleep almost the whole day, as well as the whole night. Nothing disturbs them neither heat, nor the smoke of tobacco or opium,
water,
melon
seeds.
nor the noisy conversations that are constantly going on all around them.
374
In the north the modes of locomotion are more faPeople in easy cirtiguing, but perhaps less tedious. cumstances travel in palanquins or in a kind of coach or wagon; others on horseback, on asses or mules, or they are drawn in a kind of wheel-barrow, or go on foot. The Chinese coaches are not on springs, and there are no seats in them, so that you must always sit As the roads also are cross-legged like a tailor. terribly rough, you are constantly jolted up and down, and in imminent danger of a broken head. Prudent people take the- precaution to have the sides of the vehicle cushioned, in order to soften a little the blows
they are constantly receiving right and left. Upsets are of every-day occurrence, and this is perhaps one
reason
why the Chinese have acquired so much skill in the difficult art of setting fractured limbs ; but it would certainly be a preferable plan to make better roads and
carriages, so that the limbs
might not want setting quite
so often
The most-frequented roads of the north are provided with numerous inns, which must not always be judged of by their names. To look at the pompous signs by
which they are vdecorated you would imagine you had met with the most virtuous men in the universe, and that the landlord amidst his guests was a very patriarch surrounded by a numerous family. The inscriptions in letters on the large gates, promise you peace, concord,
disinterestedness, generosity, all kinds of virtues, in addition to abundance of good cheer, and the accomplish-
ment of
all
your wishes.
But you have hardly crossed
the threshold, before you discover that you have got into a den of thieves, where you will be likely to be
both pillaged and starved. Experienced travelers know perfectly well what they have to trust to with respect to the inexhaustible abundance promised by the signs,

and take care
visions. It is
375
to
have with them an assortment of pro-
customary for every one to carry a little bag of tea, suspended to his girdle ; and those who are not inclined to content themselves with a kind of bun made of wheat and rice boiled in water, are also accompanied by an oblong trunk, divided into various compartments filled with potted meat, salt fish, and sour krout. The Chinese call these provisions for .traveling " kan-leang that is to say, dry and cold." In the considerable towns you do find sometimes tolerably well-kept inns, with private rooms for those who desire them ; and such as Europeans, whose habits are not too luxurious, might occupy with pleasure, though of
You
course they are not so elegant as those of our best hotels. can, however, take your meals at the table d'hote,
as in ours, and tended.
or have the dishes you desire served to you separately, you are mostly well and promptly at-
customary to commence by drinking tea, and amusing yourself with little trifling dainties, the cooks
it is
As
(or,
to give
tion, the
them a more stately and appropriate appella" Mandarins of the Kettle") have time for their
culinary operations. They bring the dishes ordered, in the most ostentatious manner, and when the waiters of the establishment put down the dishes before the guests,
they sing out their names in a loud voice, so as to be heard by every one. This plan, as may be supposed, is found very useful in exciting the vanity of the guests, and inducing them to ask for expensive things, that perhaps they would willingly have done without if they
had been dining in private. When the repast is finished, the head waiter of the hotel comes to the door, and commences a kind of song, of which the subject is the nomenclature of the dishes, and the burden, the
sum
total of the expenses.
When
the guests go out
876
JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIUE.

this,
it
and
must be owned,
is
critical
and solemn
moment
dined economically depart with an humble and contrite air, and try to avoid the
those
notice of the company; while the Chinese lords, who have eaten sumptuously, and of high-priced viands, march out with their pipes in their mouths, their noses in the air, and casting proud and disdainful glances on all around. If the fashion were adopted in the taverns of Europe, of proclaiming aloud what every body had taken, it is to be feared that many a guest would give himself an indigestion out of pure vanity.
who have
The
Chinese,
when traveling,
are habitually abstinent,
and in some of the provinces they have a practice to which we found it very difficult to accustom ourselves.
Before setting out in the morning, they swallow a large cup of warm water, in which they have previously dissolved a few grains of salt. They are gifted with astonishing powers of appetite and digestion, which seem to
be entirely under their control. They support hunger and thirst with the greatest facility, and yet, when the opportunity presents itself, they can swallow vast quantities of rice without suffering the slightest inconvenience. Their stomachs seem thus to be of almost unfathomable have traveled in districts of the north where depth. there was really scarcely any thing to be bought, and
We
the Chinese,
who
provisions, used to take at one required for twenty-four hours.

all at
did not like the trouble of carrying meal all the food they
In the morning as
soon as ever they were up, they breakfasted, dined, and
supped
once.
Many important cities of the south are built in the water like Venice, and the magnificent canals that serve
for
streets are furrowed by innumerable little boats. Pekin offers a very remarkable peculiarity namely, in some of the populous quarters, you find coach stands,
377
where small vehicles, drawn by one or two mules, can be taken on hire by the hour or by the drive, exactly
hackney coaches and cabriolets in Paris and LonThis custom is very ancient in the Celestial Emand does not at all seem to have been borrowed pire, from Europe. Probably it existed when our good fore'fathers were running wild in the woods. But although the Chinese have been in possession of coaches longer than we have, their coaches are still Those of Pekin are scarcely greatly inferior to ours. any better than the detestable traveling wagons of which we have already spoken. They are smaller, more elegantly painted and varnished, and fitted up inside with red or green silk but they are never on springs, and this inconvenience is felt even more in the capital than
like
don.
in the country.
which were formerly paved with not large flag-stones, having undergone any repair for, perhaps, two hundred years, have lost almost as many
principal streets,
The
stones as they have retained
so that
you come
contin-
ually to great square holes, and, as may be supposed, this is not very convenient for carriages ; and they often
proceed by a series of jumps from one side to the other. Their wheels are, indeed, of enormous solidity, and
they very seldom break ; but that does not prevent the vehicle from upsetting. During our stay at Pekin, we were induced once to take a drive in one of these abominable machines, and we were so atrociously maltreated in the course of it, that we resolved never again to have
recourse to that
method of locomotion. The Chinese accommodate themselves to it wonderfully, and sit tranquilly smoking their pipes, and seeming, by the elasticity that is so remarkable in them, to defy the roughest
jolts
that
and the most unexpected bumps. any one of them had fractured his
We never heard
The
skull.
driv-
378
have no other seat than the pole, tut to they manage preserve their equilibrium. In general it may be said that all methods of locomotion in China are either fatiguing, or dangerous, or tediera of these coaches
ous,
and these coaches unite

are,
all
these advantages in one.
The Mandarin junks

the most comfortable.
unquestionably, the best and Since leaving Nan-tchang-fou to
ascend the river Tchang, our days had flowed on with

indescribable calmness and rapidity, and we profited by this period of peace and tranquillity to collect our notes,
and revive the
recollections
compose
this narrative.
which have enabled us to This glance cast tack upon
our past tribulations was a source of pleasant emotion. One can only enjoy the sweets of repose after long faWhen the sailor has got into port, he likes to tigue.
look back on the furious tempests of the ocean, and the ecstasies of felicity are reserved by Providence for hearts
bruised and worn
by
suffering.
quiet interval of this peaceful voyage procured for us, also, a better acquaintance with the light literature of China. Our servant, Wei-chan, was a great
The sweet
and whenever he went ashore he used to come back with a stock of little pamphlets that he afterward devoured in his own cabin. These ephemeral producreader,
tions of the ready pens of the literary class usually consist of tales, novels, poems, biographies of illustrious
or of notorious villains, and fantastic and marvelous stories of various kinds. The Greeks fixed the abode of their monsters and ephemeral creatures in the East, and the Chinese have returned the compliment by
men
placing theirs in the West, beyond the great seas. dwell their Dog-men, their nation ears
trail
There
long enough to on the ground as they walk ; there is the kingdom of Women, and of the people with a hole right through them at the breast ; the Mandarins of which people,
379
when they go
merely pass a stick through this hole, carried thus Between two domestics. If the hearers are strong enough, they often string on
out,
and have themselves
several gentlemen at once. These tales are a good deal in the style of Gulliver's Adventure, and some of them are full of the most dis-
gusting obscenity
ing their imaginations

fore.
Chinese are fond of indulgwith this kind of reading, which, indeed, can teach them little that they did not know be;
for the
found in the collection of Wei-chan some very we read with the most lively interest. These were collections of proverbs, maxims, and popular sentences, from which we made some excurious productions, that
tracts that
We
we
will give here, as
we
believe the reader
them with pleasure, as specimens of Chinese character and modes of thought. There are some indeed that have subtlety and salt enough not to be disdained
will peruse
by La Rochefoucauld. " The sage does good as he breathes it " One may be decorous without being
is his life."
chaste
but
one can not be chaste without being decorous." " My books speak to my mind, my friends to
heart
;
my
all
the rest to
" The wise
my
ears."
all
man
does not speak of
he does, but he
does nothing that can not be spoken of." "Attention to small things is the economy of virtue."
" Raillery " Man
is
the lightning of calumny."

virtue,
may
bend to
but virtue can not bend to
man."
"Repentance is the spring of virtue." " Virtue does not talents, but it
place.
supplies their give Talents neither give virtue nor supply the place
of
it."
380
is
"lie who finds pleasure in vice, and pain in virtue, a novice both in the one and the other."
" One
may
do without mankind, but one has need of

is
a friend."
"Ceremony
the
" If the heart does not go with the head, the best
thoughts give only light
;
smoke of friendship."
this is
why
science
is
so
little
persuasive, and probity so eloquent." " The pleasure of doing good is the only one that
never wears out."
men; to rewomen." " You must listen to your wife, and not believe her." "If one is not deaf or stupid, what a position is that If with a wife and a daughter-inof a father-in-law
nounce science
is
"To
cultivate virtue is the science of
the virtue of
law, one has also sisters and sisters-in-law, daughters and nieces, one ought to be a tiger to be able to hold
out."
" The happiest mother of daughters

only sons."
is
she
who has
" The minds of women are of quicksilver, and their hearts of wax." " The most curious women willingly cast down their eyes to be looked at." " The tongues of women increase by all that they take from their feet." "The finest roads do not go far." "When men are together, they listen to one another; but women and girls look at one another." "The most timid girl has courage enough to talk
scandal."
" The tree overthrown by the wind had more branches than roots." " The dog in the kennel barks at his fleas, but the dog who is hunting does not feel them."

" He who
lets things
381
be given to him,
is
not good at
in a vil-
taking." ' ' At court people sing that they may drink lage people drink that they may sing."
" Great souls have
" The prison

full
;
wills, others only feeble wishes." shut night and day, yet it is always the temples are always open, and yet you find no
is
one in them."
"All
errors
have only a time;
after
a hundred
lies,
millions of objections, subtleties, sophisms, and the smallest truth remains precisely what it was
fore."
be-
"Who
whom we
is
He the man most insupportable to us? have offended, and whom we can reproach
with nothing." " Receive your thoughts as guests, and treat your
desires like children."
" Whoever makes a great fuss about doing good, does to be seen and noticed he who wishes little very when he is doing good, will not do it long he who mingles humor and caprice with it will do it badly. He who only thinks of avoiding faults and reproaches,
:
will never acquire virtues."
" For him who does every thing in its proper time, one day is worth three." " The less one has for one's self, the more
indulgence
one
may have
those
for others."
"Towers
are measured
by
their
shadow, and great
men by
who
are envious of them."
"We must do quickly what there is no hurry for, to be able to do slowly what demands haste." " He who wishes to secure the good of others, has his own." secured already " The court is like the sea; every thing depends upon the wind."
382
"
What
a pleasure
it is
to give
There would be no
rich people if they were capable of feeling this." " The rich find relations in the most remote foreign countries ; the poor not even in the bosom of their own families."
" The way to glory is through the palace to fortune market ; to virtue through the desert." the through
;
"The
which it " One
truths that
is
we
least
wish to hear are those
most to our advantage to know." forgives every thing to him who forgives him-
self nothing."
"It is the rich who wants most things." " Who is the liar? He who
greatest
speaks most of
himself."
" fool never admires himself so much as when lie has committed some folly." "When a song gives much fame virtue gives very
little."
" One never needs one's wits so much as when one

has to do with a fool."
"All
is lost
when
the people fears death less than
poverty."
After a delightful voyage of fifteen days we arrived at the foot of the mountain Mei-ling, when we bade adieu
Mandarin junks, and returned to our palanquin. we began to climb the steep and rugged sides of the Mei-ling. There are several paths, but as all they present nearly the same difficulties, you do
to our
At
sunrise
not give yourself much trouble about the choice. The multiplicity of paths is occasioned by the great numbers of travelers and porters who are obliged to
cross the mountain, which is in fact the sole passage for all the merchandise that the commerce of Canton is continually pouring into the interior provinces of the
Em-

pire.
383
It is impossible to see
without pain
all
these un-
fortunate creatures loaded with enormous burdens, dragging themselves slowly up these tortuous and almost
The men whom their poverty perpendicular paths. condemns thus to this terribly hard labor, live, it is said, a very short time. remarked, nevertheless, among the long files of porters, some old men, bending painful-
We
ly under their load, and scarcely able to support their

tottering steps. At certain distances
you
find
bamboo
sheds, where
travelers go to refresh themselves a little in the shade, to drink some cups of tea, and smoke a pipe of tobacco, to restore their sinking spirits.
We arrived toward noon at the summit of the mountwhere there

is
ain,
of an
immense
portal
a sort of triumphal arch, in the form on one side of which ends the ;
province of Kiang-si, and on the other begins that of Canton. could not cross this frontier without emo-
We
tion, for
we had now
at last set foot in the province
which is in direct communication with Europe. It seemed as if we were only a short way from Canton, and Canton represented to us Europe France, that
country so dear to our recollections.
We
descended
the mountain slowly and cautiously, on account of the masses of rock with which the way was thickly strewn,
and we arrived in the evening at Nan-hioung. This town is celebrated for its storehouses and its vast port, where all the junks stop that come up the river from Canton. We went to lodge on the quay, in a spacious and magnificent communal palace; and as the last fifteen days had been so agreeable, we hastened to express to the prefect of the town our wish to complete the journey down the river to Canton as before in a Mandarin junk. The next day all was strictly regulated in conformity
384
with our request ; but it was settled that we should pass the day at Nan-hioung, in order to give the captains of the junks time to make their preparations.
As soon as we rose from table we were invited to go and smoke and take tea in a spacious court under the umbrageous shelter of an avenue of great trees. It happened that there was then at Nan-hioung a celebrated troop of rope-dancers, and the prefect of the town had
When we
darins
thought proper to indulge us with a representation. entered the court in company with the Man-
we were
received with some music, which
was
certainly loud enough, but of rather equivocal pretensions The ropes were all ready stretched, in other respects.
and the
naturally
artists
The Chinese
speedily commenced their evolutions. are very skillful rope-dancers, as might be supposed from their great elasticity and
but the most distinguished of the ; were two women, who, notwithstanding the incredtroop ible smallness of their little goats' feet, performed prodsuppleness of limb
igies of agility.
have already said that, though the women are forbidden to play any dramatic part, they are allowed to dance on the rope and figure in the exercises of equitation.
We
They show themselves
in general indeed
more
than the men in these performances, and in the north of China there are ambulatory horse-riding companies in which the women excel in the management of
skillful
the horses and the most
difficult
feats
of the circus.
leg,
One can hardly imagine how they can stand on one

pirouette, pass
circle.
through hoops, and cut

little
all
kinds of
in the
capers, while the horse is galloping
and bounding
The
fashion of
feet is general in China,
and
Eurodates, it is said, from the highest antiquity. peans sometimes imagine that the Chinese in the excess of their jealousy have invented this custom in order to

keep their
abroad.
385
women
But though
in-doors, and prevent their gadding this jealousy may perhaps find its
is
account in this strange and barbarous mutilation, there no reason to attribute to it the invention. It has
been introduced gradually without any deliberately formed purpose, like other fashions. It is said that in some remote antiquity, a certain princess excited universal admiration for the delicate smallness of her feet
;
gifted with remarkable attractions, she naturally gave the tone to Chinese fashion, and the ladies of the capital adopted her as the type of
and as she was besides
made
The admiration for small feet was admitted that, at last, a rapid progress criterion of beauty had been discovered, and as people
elegance and good taste.
;
it
have always a passion for new follies, the Chinese ladies sought by all possible methods to follow the fashion. Those who were already of mature age, however, resorted in vain to bandages and various means of compression ; they found it impossible to suppress the legitimate developments of nature, and to give to their
basis the elegance they so much desired. Young ladies had the consolation of obtaining some success, but not It was reserved for the sucto the extent they wished.
little feet.
fail,
ceeding generation to witness the complete triumph of Mothers devoted to the new mode did not
when a daughter was born
to them, to
compress
the feet of the poor little creature with tight bandages that hindered their growth ; and the results of these
measures having appeared highly satisfactory, they were generally adopted throughout the Empire. Chinese women, rich and poor, in town and country, are all lame; at the extremity of their legs they have
only shapeless stumps, always enveloped in bandages, and from which all the life has been squeezed out.
Upon
these stumps they draw pretty

II.
little,
VOL.
richly-em-
386
broidered boots, and support themselves upon them by Their constantly keeping themselves exactly balanced.
step
in
it
is
a kind of hop, and resembles that of the Basque
people when mounted on
stilts. As they are practiced from their infancy, however, the Chinese women do not find as much difficulty as might be supposed, not more than many lame people among us, who can often run pretty quickly. When you meet these women
in the streets, you would think, froin their little tottering steps, that they were just ready to fall ; but there is
as they consider this In general they are so much at their ease, that when they think they are not seen they run and jump and frolic about quite prettily. The favorite game of young Chinese girls is battledore and shuttlecock but instead of a battledore they make use of one of their little boots to send the shuttlecock backward and forward, and as they sometimes pass whole days in this sport, one may venture to conclude that they do not suffer much pain or fatigue from the stumps
often
affectation in that,
some
kind of step graceful.
that serve
them
for feet.
All the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire are mad upon this point of the little feet of women, and young
girls
who have
in their infancy, find
not been properly tortured with bandages it no easy matter to get married.
,
therefore, are of course extremely solicitous upon this point. The Mantchou Tartar women have preserved the use of feet as large as Nature made
The mothers,
them
but the manners of the country have, nevertheinfluenced them so far that they have invented less, shoes with very high soles, terminating in a point, upon
;
which they can

nese
sisters.
totter
even more lamely than their Chifeet is
_
unquestionably most bar-
This fashion of little
barous, absurd, and injurious to the development of the
387.
physical strength ; but what means are there of putting a stop to the deplorable practice ? It is decreed by fashThe Euion, and who would dare resist her dictates ?
ropeans, besides, have no right to be so very severe upon the Chinese ; for they also set a considerable value upon small feet, and many of them subject them-
day by wearing shoes that are not them. What would the Chinese really large enough women say, too, if any one should tell them that beauty
selves to pain every
for
does not consist in having imperceptible
feet,
but
it
does
in having an intangible waist, and that, though it is not desirable to have the feet of a goat, it is to have the
shape of a wasp
knows but that the Chinese and European ladies would end by making mutual concessions, and 1 adopting both fashions at once ? Under pretext or increasing their beauty, they would not fear to disfigure
completely the works of their Creator. The performance of the rope-dancers lasted
evening, and
their
all
Who
the
manoeuvres were very amusing ; but we could only give them a divided attention, for the thought that in a few days we should be at Macao occupied us incessantly, and occasioned us too lively emotion to permit of our bestowing
skill.
due admiration on their
The next morning we embarked on board the junks, which were built and decorated precisely like those that had carried us as far as the mountain of Mei-ling. What now remained to us of our long and toilsome journey was nothing more than an agreeable excursion. We had nothing to do but to allow ourselves to float As soon as the anchor was quietly on to Canton. raised, and that our junk began to move rapidly on her
way, the recollections of having ascended this river in 1840, on our first entrance into the Empire, came
38S
JOUKNEY
TllliUL'GH
THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
thronging back into our minds, and filling them with This is what we wrote at that time sweet melancholy.
to
some kind friends in France, on giving them an account of our departure from Canton, and our first Our letter was dated from a introduction into China.
mission situated at a short distance from the Mei-ling
mountain
"Toward six o'clock they made my toilet, a la Chinoise. They shaved my head, with the exception of the spot at the top, on which I have now been letting the hair grow these two years past they then put me
;
on a false head of hair, which they arranged in plaits, and I found myself in possession of a magnificent tail,
knees. that descended nearly to complexion, not too fair before, as you know, was artificially improved by the addition of a yellowish tinge all over it ;
my
My
my
try
;
eyebrows were cut off, in the fashion of the counthe long and thick mustaches, that I had been
cultivating for some time, disguised the European cut of nose, and, finally, Chinese robes completed
my
my
metamorphosis. "As soon as
it
junk, that, proceeding
was dark, we took our way to the up the river from Canton, was
to conduct us to Nan-hioung, on the confines of the
great Chinese fellow, mounted province of Kiang-si. on a long system of legs, opened the march ; the courier
followed him, I followed the courier, and a Chinese seminarist, bound for the mission of Kiang-si, followed me ; so that we formed a kind of thread to guide ourselves
through the great labyrinth called Canton." This city, as I said it, produced on me the impression of one great ambuscade. Its streets are narrow, tortuYou might suppose ous, and winding like a corkscrew.
it
was not
true for the people of Canton, that the shortest
line
between any two given points was a straight one.
389
Now, if to these capricious-looking streets, with the fronts of the houses all whimsically carved, you throw in a profusion of little lanterns, big lanterns, lanterns of
all
of all colors,
shapes and sizes, ornamented with Chinese characters you will have an idea of Canton seen hasti-
ly
by lamp-light. "Amidst all the immense population by which the streets were thronged, our grand business was not to
lose sight of each other, or break the chain that our But, alas! presently we found it was party formed.
broken.
At
formed the next link to
the corner of a dark street, the courier me lost sight of the Chinese
who who
Once out preceded him, and who alone knew the way. of sight, in which direction were we to look for him ?
street we were in was no thoroughfare, and we did know which of the turnings he had taken. Our perplexity was great, so we cried aloud for our guide in
The
not
pearance.
and fortunately at last he made his apHaving noticed that no one was following him, he had retraced his steps, and picked us up again We then resumed our just where he had dropped us. march gayly, and soon found ourselves, with thankful The crew had not yet hearts, on board our junk. finished their preparations, and we could not go on till
all directions,
the next day, so that we passed the night in the rivesr, opposite the town, and, so to speak, under the very bear$ of the Viceroy.*
" The river of Canton during the night presented really the most fantastic spectacle I had ever witnessed. It seemed to be almost more populous than the town.
The water
of
all
is covered by a prodigious quantity of vessels The dimensions and of indescribable forms.

;
greatet part are shaped like fish
and among these the
* This viceroy was Ki-chan, and we did not then imagine we should one day become acquainted witli him in the capital of Thibet.
390
Chinese have chosen for models those of the most ex-
Some of the vessels are built like traordinary figure. houses, and these have rather an equivocal reputation ; but all are richly decorated; many resplendent with
gilding, like the
and elegantly carved into transparent lace-work, carvings of some of our ancient cathedrals. All these floating habitations, hung round with pretty
wood
lanterns, are cruising about incessantly, without ever becoming entangled one with the other. The skill of theii
occupants in this respect is really admirable ; you see that they are an aquatic population : born, living, and dying on .the water.
"
Every one seems
to find on the river whatever is
necessary
During the night I was amusing myself a long while in watching the passing and repassing before our junk of a crowd of small craft, that were nothing else than provision-shops bazaars in in miniature. were them They soup, fried fish, selling and etc. to rice, cakes, fruit, and, complete the effect of the picture, you must add the incessant beating of tam-tams, and letting off of fire-works. " The next we set off in the
for his subsistence.
;
day,
Wednesday,
early
Our little bark morning, with hearts full of hope. suited us delightfully ; the crew was not numerous, consisting only of three young men, who were the sailors, and their aged mother, who sat at the helm and filled
the
office
of pilot.
They appeared
simple-hearted
fel-
lows, and we rejoiced at this, as we thought they would not be sharp enough to find us out. " The as this of the river is called
Tigris,
part
by
Europeans, did not display any remarkable scenery on its banks. It goes on winding through a long chain of mountains, and when its rather shallow bed is not inclosed between high-pointed rocks, it show.s on both banks more or less extensive plains of fine whitish sand ;
391
some fields of rice and wheat, and rich plantations of bamboo and weeping willow many high hills, for the most part sterile and bare some lightly covered by a layer of reddish soil, and some scattered groups of pines, and withered grass on which buffaloes were carelessly
;
feeding.
These are the things that meet the eye as you
" In several places we saw enormous masses of calcareous stone, that look as if they had been cut by the hand of man from the summit to the base, in order to open a passage for the river. I asked the Chirifise whether they could account for this, and the question
did not puzzle them the least in the world. They said, ' Oh, yes ; the Emperor Yao, aided by his Prime Minister,
proceed up the river.
Chan, divided this mountain, to
facilitate
the flow-
This ing off of the waters after the great inundation.' great inundation, according to the Chinese chronology,
corresponds to the time of Noah's deluge. " One of the shores rose perpendicularly in a colossal
wall of a single block, and was enriched besides by a phenomenon, which I was a long time without compreI could see at a great height on the rock two hending. kinds of galleries cut in it, upon which were moving
something like human figures amidst innumerable lights. time to time some flaming matter fell from these As our galleries and was extinguished in the river.
From
junk approached the spot, we saw moored at the base of the rock a crowd of little skiffs, filled with passengers. It was a celebrated place of idolatrous pilgrimage. Those who came to practice their superstitious rites there passed from their boats into a subterranean pasin the rock sage, and then ascended by a staircase cut There are found here certain to the upper galleries. idols that attract pilgrims from a great distance."*
* Annals of the Propagation of the Faith, No. 88, p. 212, etc.
892

after
In passing up the river again,

years,
an interval of six
We
took pleasure in recalling our former impressions, and in contemplating the points that had struck us forcibly at the period of our entrance into China,
we
saw again with emotion the mountains
that form a
sort of natural dike to the waters of the Tigris; that pagoda dug in the living rock ; those custom-house offi-
cers ranged along the shore,
who
in our former passage
had given us so many frights. By degrees, as we advanced, the bed of the river enlarged itself, and the The sound of Cctnton junks became more numerous. the oars and the shrill nasal song of the sailors filled the air with a wild and melancholy harmony, that we listened to with a mingled feeling of joy and sadness. It seemed to us as if we were about to enter the Celestial Empire for the first time, and had just bade adieu forever to the European colonies of Canton and Macao. But, instead of that, we were now about to see them once more!
On the sixth day after our departure from Nan-hioung, the Tigris had ceased to roll its blue waters through mountains ; and we entered on a richly cultivated plain,
where from time
to time
we
inhaled a powerful and in-
vigorating breeze, that seemed to expand our chests. It was a breeze from the sea, and Canton was not far off!
Standing motionless on the deck of the junk, straining our eyes in that direction, we felt all the tremor that precedes the strong emotions of a return after long absence. The last rays of the sun were just fading on the horizon^ when we perceived something like an immense forest, stripped of its leaves and branches, and retainThe current, the ing only the trunks of the great trees.
breeze,
and the
tide,
the roads of Canton
were now sweeping us on rapidly to and soon, among the innumerable
masts of Chinese junks,
we
distinguished
some more
893
elevated than the rest, and the peculiar structure of whose
yards made us give a sudden start, and filled our eyes with tears. Among the native vessels of China arose
the grand and imposing forms of a steam-ship and several East Indiamen ; and amidst the flags of all colors
that were waving in the air, we perceived those of the United States, of Portugal, and of England. That of France was not among them ; but when one has been
long at the other side of the world, on an inhospitable soil, in China, in short, it seems that all the people of the West form one great family. The mere sight of a
European
flag
makes the heart
beat, for
it
awakens
all
the recollections of our country. In traversing the port of Canton on our Mandarin
junk, our eyes sought with eager curiosity for all that passed alongside of an English and we could not brig, gaze enough at the sailors in
was not Chinese.
We
their glazed hats, who, ranged in a line along the deck, were watching us passing ; assuredly without suspecting that they had under their eyes two Frenchmen just returned from the high table-land of Asia. Probably they were amusing themselves at our Chinese costume, while we were going into ecstasies at their astonishing Those rubicund visages, those blue physiognomies. eyes, those long noses and fair hair, those curious nar-
seemed, upon their limbs how pretty trim little vessel, painted with a white awning, now passed us ; and covered green and in it were seated three European gentlemen, smok-
row
clothes, pasted, as
it
droll it all
was!
How ing cigars, enjoying apparently a pleasure trip. grotesque in the eyes of an Asiatic would their costume have appeared They wore black hats and white trow,
!
and jackets. Thibet man would have burst out laughing to see those faces, naked of beard or mustache, but having instead a bunch of red
sers,
waistcoats,
894
understood now how curly hair on each cheek. absurd Europeans must look in countries which have
We
no knowledge of
their
customs and fashions.
After making many intricate turns through this vast in a little wharf, where a Manport, we landed at last darin was waiting for us. They put us into palanquins, and we were transported at a rapid pace to the centre of
the town, and to the house of a civil functionary of inferior rank.
This was At length, then, we had reached Canton in the month of October, 1846, six months after our
!
departure from Lha-ssa. When we quitted the capital of Thibet, it seemed to us as if we should never reach the end of the journey we
were undertaking. It appeared to be full of so many difficulties and hardships, that in all human probability we should perish of fatigue and privation on the way ; but Providence had been our guide, and led us in perfect safety through all the dangers by which we had been surrounded.- As soon as we had entered the apartments assigned to us, we fell on our knees, and returned thanks to God for all the mercies He had showered upon us during these laborious journeys journeys that were truly undertaken in the hope of glorifying His name, and extending His kingdom upon earth. A short time after our arrival at Macao, we received a visit from a long Chinese who presented himself in
the quality of official interpreter to the administration. After he had made an imposing display of his whole
stock of knowledge of English, French, Portuguese, and Spanish, we told him that if he would be so kind as to
speak Chinese, we should probably get on a great deal Under the better; but to this he would not agree. that he was an man the wretched pretext interpreter,
persisted in his unintelligible jargon.
We
asked him

whether M.
395
Van Bazel, the Dutch Consul, was then at and as he replied, "Yes! yes! Signer!" we Canton, him to get a letter carried for us to that gentlebegged
immediately.
man
had known M. Van Bazel a long time, and we knew how much sympathy and devotion he had always shown to the Catholic missionaries. We begged him to send us some newspapers, as we had had no news from
Europe
for
We
more than three
years.
The interpreter departed on this errand, and soon came back, accompanied by a porter, carrying an enormous bale of English newspapers, to which the Dutch
Consul had had the kindness to add some bottles of claret, in order to help us, as he said, to revive the recollections of our country.
passed the whole night rummaging in this incoherent mass of news that was piled up in the middle ot our room, and in one of the very first newspapers that
We
chance threw into our hands, we read an article that we thought rather curious. It was as follows have lately received intelligence of the lament able death of the two fathers of the Mongol Tartar Mission." After a slight glance at the Tartar countries, the
:
"We
author of the article continues
of Hue, took up his abode about three years ago among some Chinese families established in the valley of Black Waters, about six hundred miles from the Great Wall. Another Lazarist, whose name is not known to us, joined him with the
"A French
Lazarist of the
name
purpose of forming a mission for the conversion of the Mongol Buddhists. They studied the Tartar language with the Lamas of the neighboring monasteries ; and
appears that, having been regarded as foreign Lamas, they were treated in a friendly manner, especially by
it
the Buddhists,
who
are very ignorant,
and who took
396
the Latin of their breviaries for Sanscrit, which they do not understand, but for which they have much veneration.
"When
the Missionaries believed themselves
suffi-
ciently instructed in the language they proceeded into the interior, with the intention of commencing the work
After that period very little was heard of conversion. of them, until in May last information was received that they had been fastened to the tails of wild horses and
dragged to death.
The immediate cause
of this event is
not yet known." It may well be imagined that this article astonished us a little ; and we thought we had some reason to
doubt its perfect accuracy. Nevertheless, all the details were so well arranged, that the whole really seemed to bear upon it the stamp of truth, and nothing less than our return in person, safe and sound, seemed capable of
refuting
it.
we held at an early hour a grand which were assembled all the high dignitaries of Canton, and the Mandarins who had accomOur journey panied us from the capital of Kiang-si. being concluded we thought it would be proper to render publicly our accounts to the Chinese administration.
following day
reception, at
On the
We therefore
all
the
ordered our servant Wei-chan to bring in money that we had saved since our departure
from Nan-tchang-fou. There was an enormous heap of it, so that the eyes of the assistants quite sparkled as they looked at it. " There " a considerable sum. Accordis," said we, ing to the orders of the Governor of Kiang-si, all the towns through which we passed had to pay us a contribution for our maintenance, but our conscience forbade us to incur any unnecessary expense. This money
therefore
must now be resigned
to those to
whom
it

belongs. If
it is
397
yours,"
we added,
addressing the func-
"take it." They protested with energy that they had no claim to this money. The Mandarins of our escort, to whom we offered it,
tionaries of Canton,
did the like

truly
this
every one displayed a disinterestedness

all
exemplary, and
unanimously declared, that
legally allotted to us, could beto no one else to ourselves. but long replied that Missionaries did not leave their home
sum having been
We
to
"Your go and amass riches in foreign countries. Government," we said, "having forced us to leave Thibet, and having brought us, against our own will, to
we could not help traveling at its expense but we are about to quit the Empire, we do not wish to carry away a single sapeck. Since no one else seems to lay claim to this money, we would ask whether it may be allotted to our servant. Does any one object
Canton,
;
now
that
to our proposal ?" The council having signified its approval of this suggestion, we informed Wei-chan that this little treasure
belonged to him, and for fear the Mandarins should afterward take it into their heads to seize upon it, we advised him to carry it away immediately and place it in
Wei-chan did not wait to be told twice, but took instantly possession of the cash and disappeared, and we never saw him again.
security.
The Imperial Commissioner Ky-yn was still at that time Viceroy of the province of Canton. He offered us a junk to take us the same day to Macao, but, as we expressed a wish to remain for awhile at Canton, where
we had some European friends, we were
escorted, at our
The excellent M. Van request, to the Dutch factory. Bazel sent a receipt for us to the Viceroy, and &om that moment our official relations with the Chinese authorities
were terminated.
898
days afterward we had clasped in our arms our and dear bretliren at Macao. For a long time we felt in the midst of them like men awakened were astonished to see no longer from a deep sleep. around us the Thibetan, Tartar, and Chinese physiognomies, and to hear sounding in our ears only that beautiful native tongue whose harmonious accents made every fibre of our souls thrill with joy, and our eyes gush full of delicious tears. France was still far from us, and yet we seemed to have found it again. There was in the roads a French corvette, La. Victorieuse, and we used to like to go and walk on the sea-shore merely to look at
old friends
Two
We
the flag floating at its mast. When we went to visit our little France, as we called it, we seemed to be
breathing the air of our country and. living in the very midst of it.
month
after our arrival at
Macao, M. Gabet,
for-
getting his infirmities and sufferings, and listening only to his devotion to the sacred cause in which he was en-
gaged, embarked for Europe, in the hope of exciting the zeal and charity of the Catholics in favor of the interest-
ing populations of Tartary and Thibet, for whose salvation he would gladly have laid down his life.
We
hoped
all
at the time
soon to meet again this companion of
some measure
our wanderings, the friend whose existence was in identified with our own. But such was
One day we received the afflicting news that this indefatigable and courageous Missionary had yielded his last breath on the coast of Brazil. When amidst the snow of high Asia, we had been so solicitous to recall the vital warmth into the nearly frozen limbs of our friend, we little thought that God had appointed him to find a grave on the burning shores of South
not the will of God.
America.
After a tolerably long residence at Macao,
we
ourselves

set off once
399
China
for the third time,
more on the road to Pekin, thus traversing and as we have already stated
in our former work, the shattered state of our health
subsequently obliged us to return to France, after having visited on our way India, Egypt, Palestine, and
Syria.
We
till
we were
first for China in the year 1838, and not permitted to see our native country again 1852. landed at last in the month of June at
embarked
We
the period of the glorious solemnities of the Fete-Dieu, when the city of Marseilles presented a spectacle that
be effaced from our recollection. O God was our Catholic France how worthy of the love of all her children Blessed be the Lord that He premitted us to endure some sufferings among foreign nations, since He reserved for us in the end such happiness as few men have ever felt, and which our feeble and imperfect powers are altogether inadequate
will never
!
how
beautiful
to express.
INDEX.
ABSOLUTISM, its perfection in China, i. 106. "Abstinent Women," sect of, ii. 227. Academy, the famous Imperial, of Han-Lin,
Actors, Chinese, character of,
i. i.
115.
273, 275.
Acupuncture, ii. 17. Advertisements, Chinese, ii. 76. Ages, Chinese classification of various,
ii.
216.
Agricultural festival, the celebrated annual, i. 112 ; ii. 287. Watchful care of the farmers, Agriculture, state of, in China, ii. 292. 293, 294. Vegetable productions, 295. The Water-lily, 296. ImObservant Corn, 300. Night-blowing corn, 300. perial rice, 299. character of the Chinese on agriculture, etc., 300. Almanac, the Imperial, i. 118. Americans (Ya-me-li-kien), i. 350. Ancestors, worship of, ii. 214. Animals, of the Chinese Empire, ii. 118. Annalists, of the Celestial Empire, duties of, i. 115. Annals, the, of China, i. 115, 122. Antiquaries, Chinese, ii. 364. Apathy, political, of the Chinese, i. 116. Arabs, their intercourse with China, i. 342, et seq. Those at Arches, triumphal, erected to virgins and widows, i. 46.
Ning-po, 47. Architecture of Chinese halls of justice,

ii.
i.
G3.
Character of Chinese,
Ancient towers, 165. Religious, of the Chinese, 195. Areca nut, fondness of the Mantchous for chewing the, i. 94.
164.
Aristocracy of Khionng-tcheou, i. 50. Literary, 107. Arms, Chinese, i. 402, 403. Army, government of the, i. 113. Its constitution in the provinces, 120. Number of troops in the whole empire, 396, 397. Grand review, 400. Military and naval officers, 407. Nullity of the army opposed to Europeans, 408. Inexhaustible resources of China for a great army, 410, 411. Camel batteries, 404. Gunpowder Artillery, Chinese, i. 403, 404. known to the Chinese at a remote period, ii. 1-19, 120. Arts of the Chinese, origin of, lost in the darkness of ages, ii. 119. Asia, remark of M. Drouyn de Lhuys on the causes of the great invasions of the barbaric hordes of, ii. 72. State of the European rule in
Asia, 90.
402
Asiatics, immutability of, ments, 58.
ii.
INDEX.
52.
Their ancient and modern govern-
Ass, method of hindering an, from braying, ii. 305, 306. Associations (or houis) of eveiy kind in China, ii. 81. Anti-gambling " PeLao-niou-houi, or Society of the Old Bull," 84. society, 82. Society Society for gratuitous coffins, 312. cuniary societies, 140. of beggars, 313, 314. Society of the Holy Infancy, 340.
Astronomy, College
ii.
of, in
Pekin,
for,.i.
i.
118.
Ignorance of the Chinese
of,
361.
143.
Authority, Chinese respect
Bachelors, crupper, i. 314. Bandits, Chinese, ii. 242. Bibles scattered along the coast by the Methodists, uselessness of the, ii. 359. Blue Mountains of China (Thsin-ling), ii. 114.
Blue River (Yang-tze-kiang), the, i. 186, 187, 191, 270, 283, 330, 375 ii. 108, 115. Shipwrecks on the, i. 381-386. Bombast of Chinese official reports, i. 132. Bonzes, magnificent monastery of, i. 57. The Bonze prophecy concerning the destruction of Tching-tou-fou, 101. Their persecution
;
of the Christians in 712, 154. Contemptuous neglect of, by the ChiMethod of perpetuating the sect of Bonzes, 193, 194. nese, ii. 193. Their ancient monasteries, 194. Their famous libraries, 194. Their holy island of Pou-tou, 194. Visit to the superior of the Bonzes, 198. An indiscreet novice, 200. Their respect for the written character, 202. Regarded as civilly dead, 265. Bon/esses, convents of, ii. 203. "Book of Places," the, or names and titles of all the functionaries of the Empire, i. 121. Books, Tatar and Chinese, published at the expense of the Government, i. 115. The San-dze-king, or Sacred Trimetrical Book, 134. The Sse-chou, or Four Classical Books, 135. The Ta-hio, or Grand The Tchoung-young, or The Invariable Centre, 137. Study, 135. The Lun-yu, or Philosophical Conversations, 139. The Classical Book of Meng-tze, or Mincius, 139. The Five Sacred Books (King), 141. The Book of Changes (y-King), 141. Destruction of the ancient books by the Emperor Thsin-che-Hoang, 142. Boots of honor, custom of conferring, ii. 75.
Bouvet, Father, Chinese missionary,
i.
163.
Brandy, corn, manufacture
of,
ii.
324.
Brick-tea, i. 39, 40. Bridge, celebrated suspension, of Lou-ting-Khaio, i. 35. Buddhism, ii. 179. Period of its'introduction into China, 179. Legend of Buddha, 181. Dogmas and moral precepts, 185. Buddhists per-
secuted by the Brahmins, 187. Causes of these persecutions, 187. Dispersion of the Buddhists through the various countries of Asia,
187.
of
The "Gandgour" and "Dandgour," Buddha in the island of Pou-tou, 11)5.
194.
Magnificent temple
INDEX.
Cadi of Cadis,
office of,
i.
403
363.
Calendar, the Chinese, i. 146. Camel batteries, account of, i. 404. Canals of China, state of the, i. 214. Attention paid to the construcThe great canal of the Emperor Yang-ti, 144. tion of, ii. 144. citizen of Tou-ki-hien in the, Cangue, punishment of the, i. 280.
A
i.
His deliverance, 282. Canton, appearance of, by lamplight, Carayon, M., the Lazariste, death of,
281.
Castor-oil plant, the,
i.
ii.
388.
29, note.
210.
Cat-clock, method of making a cat tell the time, ii. 303. Celestial Empire (Tien-chao), a name of China, i. 354. Centralization, existence of, throughout all the revolutions of China, 121.
i.
Ceremonies, Court
i.
of.
See Rites.
its
Censorship, office of universal, of Pekin (Tou-tcha-yeun),

114.
duties,
Census, the, of China, i. 112. "Chain of Chronicles, The," of the Arabs, i. 341. Changes, Book of (y-King), the, i. 141. Chan-hai-kouan, one of the gates of the Great Wall, ii. 112. Chan-tong, first appearance of the cholera at, ii. 29. Province of, descendants of Confucius residing in, i. 109. Chan-yu-ting, or Hall of Holy Instructions, i. 358. Che-king, or Book of Verses, the, of Confucius, i. 142. Chen-tsonng, the Emperor, ii. 62. His minister, Sse-ma-kouang, 63. Children, adoption or purchase of, where a man has no male descendants,
ii.
218.
China and Chinese, origin of the words, i. 350, 351. Names borne by The word Tchina, 351. the country from time to time, 351, 353.
Its relations with India, the Latin Sinae-Sinensis, 351. Exclusiveness not a character of the ancient Chinese, 370. Evil Future possibilities of forebodings concerning the Empire, 372. Chinese civilization, 412. Uniformity of the Chinese type, in face, manners, language, etc., ii. 49. The mutability of the East, 52. The inconstancy of the Chinese in matters of religion, 57. And in matters of government, 59. Compared with the French, 60. Liberty enjoyed by the Chinese, 80. Their liberty of the press, 87. Early hours of the Chinese, 103. Sketch of the geography of the Chinese Extent of its entire area, empire, 112. Boundaries of, 112, 113.
Conquest
of,
by Thsing-che-houang, 351.
351.
The Arab name Sin-Sina and
114. Mountains, 114. Rivers and Lakes, 115, 116. Climate, 116. Chinese industry, 119. Arts and manufactures, Productions, 116. 119. Decay of the productive art, 120. Early development of its internal trade, 123. Present state of commerce with Europeans, Port of Canton, 125. Imports and exports, 125, 126. Chi125. nese political economists, 128, et seq. The commercial heart of Character of the true Chinese, 145. Coin of the emChina, 142. Infinitesimal trade, 147. CordiReligion, 168, et seq. pire, 146.
lM-1
INDEX.
among
the Chinese, 211.
and sincerity rare profligacies, 326.

ality
Their hidden
See Porcelain. Cholera, China the birth-place of the,

China.
ii. 29. Circumstances under appeared at Chan-tong, 29. Terror of the inhabitants, Its course through Asia to Europe, 31. 29. Chou-king, or Book of History, the, of Confucius, i. 142. ChrisChristians, discovery of a family of, at Khioung-tcheou, i. 49. tian of Tching-tou-fou, 67. Cessation of persecution of, 58. Martyrs See Christianity. of Tching-tou-fou, 65. Persecutions of Christians at Ou-chang-fou, i. Christianity in China
which
it first
M. Guizot's embassy to of, in China, 67. China respecting concessions to Chinese Christians, 82. Existence of Christianity in China as early as the fifth and sixth centuries, 84,
66.
Immense numbers
note.
Report addressed to the Emperor concerning the Christians,

edicts,
and the Emperor's answer,

sufficiency of the
Edicts in their favor, 85. In84, 85. 87. Duty of the French government
Services rendered by the respecting its Chinese missionaries, 88. missionaries to the Chinese government, 47. Chinese missions mostly unsuccessful, 152. Introduction of Christianity into China in the fifth and sixth centuries, 153. The monument and inscription at Si-ngan-fou, 153. The priest Olopen, 154. The Bonze The Roman priest Sohan, 154. Liberality of the persecution, 154. Emperor Tai-tsoung, 154. The priests Y-sou and Niu-chou, 154,
155. The illustrious Kouo-tze-y, 155. Missions from the Nestorians of high Asia, 157. Timotheus, the Nestorian Patriarch, 157. MisPlan Carpin sions in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 157. and Rubruk, 158. Institution of an archbishopric in Pekin in the The archbishop Jean de Montcorvin, 159. fourteenth century, 159. Foundation of Macao, 160. St. Francis de Xavier, 161. Father Missions of the seventeenth centuries, 162-166. The Ricci, 161. Christians protected by the Emperor Khang-hi, 164. Persecutions under the Emperor Young-tching, 164. Favor of the Emperor KienPersecutions of Kia-king, 166. Abandonment of the long, 166. Numerous departures of the new missionaries, 166. missions, 166. The Church never discouraged, 167. Difficulties in propagating the faith in China, 169, et seq. Causes of this, 170. Motives of the government for persecuting the Christians, 170. Speech of the Emperor Young-tching to the Jesuits, 172. The Christian religion known by the name of Tien-tchou-kiao, 173. The propagation of Existence of Christianity regarded as a political movement, 174. Chinese Christians in religious liberty in the five free ports, 175. Manilla, 175. Chinese indifference in matters of religion, 176. An expected convert, 177. Community of Christians at the town of Tchoung-king, 217. Release of three Christians from imprisonment at Tchang-cheou-hien, 223. M. Hue's interview with some Chris" tians at Leang-chan-hien, 241-245. Kaio-you," the name of the Christians of China, 242. Imprisonment of the head of the Tchao Christian women in China, 257-263. State of Chrisfamily, 243.
INDEX.
405
tianity in the province of Sse-tehouen, 310. Opinion entertained by the Emperor Young-tching of the Christian religion, ii. 181. State of Christianity in the province of Hou-pe, 232. M. Eizzolatti, 233. Chun, founder of the empire, ii. 278.
Chusan, archipelago of, ii. 194. Civil government of the provinces, Civil officers. See Mandarin.
Civilization, Chinese, origin of, " Red Clet, M., his tomb in the
i.
118.
unknown,
ii.
246.
231. Climate, the, of China, ii. 116. Coffins, Chinese notions respecting, ii. 39. Society for gratuitous, 313. Coin of the empire, ii. 146. The College of Astronomy, 118. College, National, of Pekin, i. 118. The College of Medicine, 118. Colonial office of Pekin (Ly-fan-yuen), i. 114. Commerce, administration of, i. 120. Commissariat, duties of the department of the, i. 120. Communal palaces, or Koung-kouans, i. 47. Grand reception of M.
Mountain,"
ii.
Hue
Communication,
at one, 182. Magnificent one at Kien-tcheou, 191. state of the channels of, in China, i. 213.
Confucius, his ideas of government, i. 105. Hereditary titles of his descendants, 109. His descendants in Chang-tong, 109. His praise Extracts from his Ta-hio, or Grand Study, 135. of politeness, 131. Conditions on which he allows to sovereigns the right of governing His Chou-king, or Book of History, 142. His Chenations, 138. His Book of Spring and Autumn, king, or Book of Verses, 142. 143. His philosophy a counterpoise to the Imperial power, ii. 59.
Remarks on
his religion
and
doctrine, 1G8, ct seq.
Conversation, polite, i. 223. Cookery, Chinese, i. 210. Talent of the Celestials for Cookery, 212. Cormorant fishing on the lakes, ii. 100. Description of the bird, 101. Couriers, government, ii. 271. Courts, the six sovereign, of the Empire, their duties, i. 111. Criminal jurisdiction, sovereign Court of, i. 113; ii. 237. Treatment of, 237. Horrible deCriminals, Chinese, i. 64 ; ii. 237. tails of a trial, 237. Their right of appeal, 244. The most ordinary General and special pardons, 257. Treatment punishments, 245. of accused persons, 258. Custom-house officers, 338. Custom-houses, Chinese, i. 338, 339.
Customs, Chinese attachment " of the
to,
i.
i.
143.
See Bites.
Cymbals
Oppressed," the,
358.
"Dandgour," the, of Buddha, ii. 194. D'Andrada, Fernand, his establishment of the Portuguese power in
China,
i.
160.
35.
Dchiamdchan, the Lama, i. 32. Dead, special dangers from the presence of
the,
ii.
Terrible act of
Chinese customs respecting the dead, 208. vengeance, 37. Death, caimness with which it is viewed by Chinese, ii. 42.
406
INDEX.
Fontaney, Father, missionary to China, i. 163. Mailla, Father, Chinese missionary, his letter on the demolition of
DC De
the Christian religion in China, i. 165. Desert tracts of land in China, ii. 308, 342. Desfleches, Monseigneur, Bishop of Sinite, his letter to M. Hoc, i. 226. Despotism, restrictions on Oriental, ii. 88. De Visdelou, Father, Chinese missionary, i. 163. Dinner, Chinese, description of a, i. 64. Dinner party, description of Misstatements of Europeans respecting Chinese cooka, 208, 211.
ery, 210. Distilleries (Chao-kouo), ii. 326. Divination, treatise on (y-King),
tion, 141.
i.
141.
The Koua,
or lines of divina-
Divorce, Chinese law Doctors of medicine,

practice, 33.
of, ii.
ii.
271.
8, 13, 14.
Laws
concerning, 23.
Disgusting
Drama,
Theatrical tastes of the people, 271. the, of China, i. 271. Extensive collections of Chinese dramatic pieces, 273. Their literary Observations of M. Edward Biot on them, 273. Charmerit, 273. acter of the audiences, 273.
i.
Drunkenness, frequency of, ii. 320. Dufraisse, Monseigneur, his martyrdom, Dykes on the Yellow River, i. 120.
65.
Early hours of the Chinese, ii. 103. Education in China, i. 118, 129, 130. Wide diffusion of primary inDifference between the people of the North and struction, 130. Fondness for polite and decorous observance, 131. South, 130. Chief branches of instruction, 133. Method of saying lessons in The San-dze-king, or Sacred Trimetrical Book, 134. schools, 134. The Sse-chou, or Four Classical Books, 134. Extract from the TaInculcation hio of Confucius in favor of self-improvement, 134-136. of virtue, 137. Method of teaching the classical writings in schools, 141. Study of the Five Sacred Books, 141. Chinese instruction, The Chan-yu-ting, or Hall of Holy Instructions, 358. 142, 143. Emperor, the, his answer to the report respecting the missionaries, i. 81. His titles in the Chinese language, 105. His name of " The Son of Heaven," 105. His absolute authority, 107. Checked by public His family, 109. His harem, 112. Government of opinion, 107. his palace, 117. His body-guards, 119. An emperor's opinion of the law courts, 125. Character of the present Emperor, 412.
English
(In-ki-li,
Houng-mao-jin),
i.
350.
Epistolatory correspondence, mode of, ii. 272. Etiquette, Chinese attention to the minuta: of, i. 131. Eunuchs of the palace, their former importance, i. 118. Their present Anecdote of a eunuch in power, 361. political inactivity, 118. Europe, names given by the Chinese to the kingdoms of, 349. Exclusiveness not a character of the ancient, but only of the modern,
Chinese,
i.
370.
INDEX.
Famines, annual, in China, Feet, little, among Chinese
Fey-yue'-ling mountain,
Filial piety the single
i.
40V
ii.
ladies,
309, 310. ii. 384.
Origin of the custom, 385.
37, 40.
247. Difference between filial piety Fire, wells of, in Sse-tchouen, i. 300. Fire-engines, Chinese, i. 229.
governing principle of the Chinese empire, ii. felt and expressed, in China, 274.
Fires, their frequency in China, i. 228. Pillage at Fireworks, Chinese fondness for, ii. 276. Fish, rearing of, in Kiang-si, ii. 365.
fires,
229.
Fishing cormorants, ii. 100. Fo-kien, province of, Christianity in, i. 172. Fou, a first order of town, i. 69, note. Fou, the Chinese prefecture so called, i. 1 19. Fou-hi, the founder of Chinese civilization, i. 141.
Fou-ki-hien, town of, i. 276, 277. Fou-lang-sai, Chinese term for Frenchmen, i. 349. Foundling hospitals in China, ii. 337, 338. Fou-youen, or sub-governor of a province, i. 118.
France compared with China in some respects, French cemetery in Pekin, i. 148.
ii.
60, 85.
Frenchmen
(Si-yang-jin, or Fou-lang-sai),
i.
349.
Gabet, M., his death, ii. 398. Gaming, passion of the Chinese for, ii. 82, 317. Excesses of the gamblers, 317, 318. " Gandgour," or Verbal Instructions of Buddha, ii. 194. Garden of Flowers, prefecture of the, i. 60.
Gardens, Chinese, i. 202, 206, 207. Garrison towns, condition and government of, i. 394. His letter on the persecuGaubil, Father, Chinese Missionary, i. 164. tion and dispersion of the Chinese Christians, 165. Gazette, Pekin, account of the, i. 115. Geography, Chinese knowledge of, i. 341. Names given by the Chinese to the kingdoms of Europe, 349. Tendency of the Chinese for geographical inquiry of late, ii. 359. Geographical knowledge of a
Mongol Mandarin,
358.
Gerbillon, Father, Chinese missionary, i. 163. " Sea of Gobi, desert of, or Sand," ii. 112.
God, the idea of, expressed by the term Tien-tchou, i. 174. Government, Chinese, constitutive principles of, i. 105. Ideas of ConThe Emperor, 106, et seq. The communal organizafucius, 105. Civil and military officials, 109. tion, 108. Machinery of the celestial government, 111, et seq. Central administration of Pekin, 111. The six sovereign courts or ministers, 111. The local administration of Pekin, 111. Administration of the provinces, 118. " The Book of or names and titles of all the functionaries of
Places,"
the empire, 121. Existence of centralization throughout all the revolutions of China, 121. Rapacity of the Mandarins, 122. Venality
408
INDEX.
Chief causes of this, 124. Doctrines of political of justice, 124. government of Confucius, 136. Conditions on which Confucius allows to sovereigns the right of governing nations, 138. Motives of the government for persecuting the Christians, 170. Injurious innovations Their fatal effects on the empire, 368. Inof the Mantchous, 3G5. constancy of the Chinese in matters of government,ii. 59. Government
condemnation of all religions, 189, ct erned by the single principle of filial

of responsibility, 250. Great Wall, ii. 112, 113.
scq.
piety, 247.
The whole Empire govThe vast system
Guards of the Emperor,
i.
118.
Gunpowder known
fondness
for,
to the Chinese at a
remote period,
ii.
120.
Chinese
276.
ii.
Hackney
coaches, the, of Pekin,
377.
Han, dynasty of, conquests of the, i. 352. Han-keou, town of, its immense trade, ii. 142. Han-Lin, famous Imperial academy of, i. 115. Han-tchouan, town of, ii. 74. Han yang, town of, ii. 101. Animation of the place, 101.
tion of the travelers at, 104.
Cool recep-
Harem,
Heon, a
the, of the
Emperor,
i.
112.
Han-jin, or
men
of Han, a
name
of China,
i.
350.
title
pastry, Hiang-you, Hien, the Chinese prefecture so-called, i. 119. Hing-ngan, mountains of, ii. 112. Hing-pou, or supreme court of criminal jurisdiction, i. 113. History, Book of (Chou-king), of Confucius, i. 142. Study of, in China, 325. The great work of Sse-ma-tsien, 326. Famous historical
bestowed upon Mandarins, i. 99. i. 57. or " odoriferous"
work of Ma-touan-lin, 326.
Historiographers, College of, i. 115. Hoang-chou, or August Elevations, a title of the Emperor, i. 105. Hoang-ho, or Yellow River, the, ii. 115. " Hoang-mao-jin, Men of the Red Hair," Chinese name for the English, i. 350. Hoang-mei-hien, town of, ii. 275. Hoang-te, or August Sovereign, a title of the Emperor, i. 105.
Hoang-tsao-ping (Yellow Grass Plains), valley of, i. 35. Hoa-yuen, or garden of flowers, perfection of, i. 60. Hong-kong, establishment of, i. 160.
Hon-keou, town of, ii. 282. Horses in the south of China,
ii.
347.
Hospitality, instance of, i. 293. Ho-tsing, or wells of fire, i. 300, 302. Houen, the. See Metempsychosis.
Houis, or societies.
Sec Associations.
116.
i.
Houng-tse Lake,
ii.
Hou-pe', province of,
295, 329.
Remarks
on,
ii.
116, 286.
INDEX.
409
Hou-pou, or the court for the management of the revenue, i. 112. Hue, the Abbe Arrangements for his departure, i. 27. Farewell of the Thibetan escort, 32. Aspect of the road, 33. Suspension-bridge over
:
yue'-ling
Family of the conductor, 35. Crossing the Feymountain, 36-40. Creating a sensation, 41. Riot in the town of Ya-tcheou, 42. Departure from Ya-tcheou, 44. Arrival at Khioung-tcheou, 47. Discovery of a family of Christians, 49. Visit to a magnificent Bonze monastery, 56. Reach Tching-tou-fou, 59.
the river Lou, 35.
Retrospect, 62.
Invitation to
Lodgings in the court of justice, 62.
dinner with the prefects of the town, 63. Attended by two Mandarins ; of honor, 68. The trial, 71. Appearance before the Viceroy, 92. Arrangements for the departure, 144. Last visit to the Viceroy, 146. Departure from Tching-tou-fou, 151. Observations on Chinese Christianity, 152, et seq. Honors paid on the road, 179. Grand reception at a communal palace, 182. Trickery of Mandarin Ting, 184. Arrival at Kien-tcheou, 191. Disputes with the Mandarins of Kiennocturnal apparition, tcheou, i. 195. Arrival at Tchoung-king, 217. 225. Letter from the Bishop of Sinite, 226. Departure from TchoungAddition to the escort of a military Mandarin and eight king, 230. Arrival at Tchang-cheou-hien, 232. Leave Tchangsoldiers, 231. Bad and dangerous road, 236. Arrival at Leangcheou-hien, 236. Letter from a Christian family there, 242. Imprischan-hien, 238. onment of the head of this family, 243. trial demanded, 243. The trial presided over by the Missionaries, 247. Acquittal of the accused, and punishment of the military Mandarin Lu, 253, 254. Triumphal Arrival at Yao-tchang, 266. departure from Leang-chan-hien, 255. Hotel of the Beatitudes, 266. Lodgings in a theatre, 268. Navigation of the Blue River, 270. Arrival at Fou-ki-hien, 276. Quarrel with a Leave Fou-ki-hien, 282. Arrival at Ou-chan, 283. doctor, 279. Departure from the province of Sse-tchouen, 295. Entry into the province of Hou-pe, 295. Arrival at Pa-toung, 296, 312. And at Kouei-
Journey to Hoang-mei-hien, 269. A storm, 269. Arrival at Solemn public supper, 352. Departure from Nan-tchang-fou, 348. ArNan-tchang-fou, 369. Passage of the mountain Mei-ling, 382. la Cldnoise, 388. Reach Canton, rival atNan-hioang, 383. A toilet 395. And Macao, 395. Arrival at Marseilles, 399. Voi. IT S
236.
Mandarin, 354, 373. Quit Song-tehe-hien, 374. NavBlue River. 374. disappointment, 375. Arrival at Kin-tcheou, 383. Leave Kin-tcheou, 414. Fatigues of the road, 415. The nocturnal procession, 419. Arrival at Kuen-kang-hien, 421. Dangerous illness, ii. 8. Recovery, 34. Arrival at Tien-men, 43. And at Han-tchouan, 74. Leave Han-tchouan, 94. Bad reception at Han-yang, 101. Arrival at Oti-tchang-fou, 108. Attempt to see' the Governor of the province, 148. Forcing the guard, and obtaining an interview, 151,152. Success of the visit, 156. Departure from HouFarewell visit to the Governor, 230. The tombs of the pe', 229. visit to the prefect, martyrs, 230. No provisions to be had, 236.
tcheou, 330. 335. Arrival pitality of the igation of the
Disembarkation at I-tchang-fou, 332.

at I-tou-hien, 339.
And
Terrific threats, at Song-tche-hien, 354. Hos-
410
INDEX.
ii.
" Hundred Families," a term for the people of China, Hurricanes of Tsing-khi-hien, i. 41.
352.
Ibn-vahab, his journey to China, and interview with the Emperor,

342,
et seq.
i.
Imbert, M., his account of the salt and fire-wells of Sse-tchouen,
i.
300-308.
Impiety, laws concerning, ii. 263. Industrial exhibition of the Chinese, ii. 122. Industry of the Chinese, i. 308. Infanticide, frequency of, ii. 327. Testimony of M. Delaplace respectMethods of killing children, especially females, 332. Ining, 327. Accounts of fanticide in Paris in the seventeenth century, 334.
Edicts against infanticides, 338. missions to China respecting, 336. Work of the Holy Infancy, 340, 341. Inns, description of the, of China, ii. 375. In-ki-li, a Chinese term for the English, i. 350. Inspector of Crimes, or Ngan-tsha-sse, the, of Sse-tcheouen, i. 70. His
peroration, 75.
Insurrection of the present time, remarks on the, i. 299 ; ii. 100. Interest of money, ii. 130. Legal interest fixed at 30 per cent, per
annum,
130.
Interments, customs of the Chinese at, ii. 211. Mortuary repasts, 213. Great numbers of, in Islands, floating, description of the, ii. 96, 97.
China, 96.
I-tchang-fou, town of, i. 332. Lodging of versation with the prefect of, 334.
Itinerary, the Chinese,
M. Hue
at,
333.
His con-
I-tou-hien,
town
of,
i.
i. 36. 339. Its accomplished Mandarin, 340.
Japan, Christianity in, i. 160. Judge, his responsibility, ii. 255. Judges, Chinese, compared with Roman judges, ii. 244. Judgment-halls, description of the, i. 63, 70, 72. Juggling and sleight-of-hand, perfection of, in China, i. 276. His mastery over the Chinese language, i. 329. Julien, M. Stanislas. His publication on the travels of a Chinese in India, 341. Junk, a river, sketch of a passage in, i. 187, et seq. Junk traveling, ii. 389. Navigation of the Blue River, 379, 381. War-junks, 406.
Junk
Justice,
races,
i.
389.
ii.
mode
of administering,
243. 242.
Kaio-you, the name of the Chinese Christians, Kakkerlac, the insect so called, ii. 234, 285.
i.
Quantities of the, at
Hon-keou, 284. Kan-Sou, province of, i. 40. Kao-pan (theatre of examinations), the, of Pa-toung, i. 313, 329. Kao-wang, the divinity so called, i. 145. Kan-fou, town of, ii. 123. Besieged and destroyed, 12:5.
INDEX.
411
Khang-hi, the Emperor, the protector of the Christian religion in Pekin, i. 164. His death, 164.
Khata, or scarf of felicity," trade in the, i. 40. Khioung-tcheou, town of, i. 47. Discovery of a Christian family there, 49. Aristocracy of the inhabitants, 50. Khiou-ping, or nine orders of civil and military officials, i. 110.
of, i. 342, 347. Kia-king, the Emperor, his exile of the Dragon of Ilain, i. 235. Kiang rivers, appearance of the, ii. 408. Remarks on, 308. Uncultivated tracts Kiang-si, province of, ii. 286. in the province of, 342.
"
Khom-dan, town
His improvements in Ki-chan, Chinese embassador at Lha-ssa, i. 28. the province of Sse-tchouen, 48. Kien-long, the Emperor, his additions to the empire, ii. 112. M. Hue's disputes with the Mandarins Kien-tcheou, town of, i. 191.
of,
195.
King, or the Five Sacred Books, the, i. 141. King-pou, or grand tribunal of crimes at Pekin, i. 80. Battle between Kin-tcheou, town of, i. 383. In a state of siege, 388. townspeople and Mantchou Tartars, 388. Junk races at, 390. Kioung-tcheou, brick tea of, i. 39. Its duties, 111. Kiun-ke-tchou, one of the imperial councils, i. 111. Koua, or lines of divination, i. 141. Kouan-kouen, or Chinese bandit, punishment of one, ii. 237. Meaning of the term, 242. Kouang-fou, the, i. 110. Kouang-ping, son of the god of war (Kouang-ti), i. 297. Koung-pou, or supreme court of public works, i. 113. Kouang-ti, god of war, and patron of the Mantchous, i. 297. worship paid to him, 298. Punishment of a criminal Kouang-tsi-hien, town of, ii. 238.
Official
at,
237.
Kouan-tse, the political economist, his views, ii. 128. Kouei-tcheou, town of, i. 330. Koung, the highest title bestowed upon Mandarins, i. 109. Koung-kouans, or communal palaces, i. 47. Grand reception of M. Hue at one, 182. Magnificence of one at Kien-tcheo, i. 201. Its
gardens, 207.
Kuen-kang-hien, town
of,
i.
421.
Kouo-tze-y, the illustrious, his character, i. 155. His report to the Ky-yn, imperial commissioner, i. 58. cerning the Christians, 84.
Emperor con-
His attempt to ameliorate Lagrenee, M., his mission to China, i. 57. the condition of the Chinese Christians, 83. Lakes, the, of China, ii. 116.
Lampoons, Chinese,
ii.
76.
Language, Chinese, remarks on, i. 317, et seq. Its antiquity, 318. Its wide diffusion, 319. The written and the spoken languages, 319. The primitive characters, 319. Ideographic characters, 320. Read-
412
INDP;X.
ing and writing Chinese, 322.
The academic
style, 324.
The vulgar style of language, MM. The Houan-hoa, or language of intsnictcd
Dialects of some of the provinces, 325. Supposed persons, 324. M. Abel Kemusat, 328. M. difficulty of the study of Chinese, 328. Stanislas Julien, 329.
Language, the Mantchou Tatar, i. 61. Lao-tze, the philosopher, life and opinions
of,
ii.
171, ct
KCIJ.
Law
courts, the
Emperor's opinion
of,
i.
124.
Laws, Chinese, ii. 245. The Ta-tsing Lu-li, or Laws and Statutes of Sir George Staunton's the Grand Dynasty of the Tsing, ii. 245. translation of this work, 245. Penal character of the legislation of Unscienthe empire, 245, 248. The system of responsibility, 250. Laws which regulate the conduct of tific character of the law, 252.
officials,
254.
Responsibility of government
officials,
255.
Laws
concerning marriage, 261. Leang, the military Mandarin of M. Hue's escort,

Leang-chan-hien, town Leao-tong, tobacco of,
ii.
i.
145.
of,
i.
Christians of, 240, 256, 257. 132, 215, 216. Country of, added to China,
i.
238.
112.
Le Comte,
Father, Chinese missionary,
i.
163.
i.
Leou-pou, or the six sovereign courts of the government, meration of them, and their duties, 112. Letters, Man of, sketch of a, i. 128. Lha-ssa, Chinese emhassador at, i. 28. Li, Chinese measure of length, i. 32.
111.
Enu-
Freedom of locoLiberty, large amount of political, in China, ii. 80. motion in China, 80. Liberty of the press in ancient Chinese institutions, 85.
Libraries, public, do not exist in China, Bonzes, ii. 194.
i.
327.
The famous,
of the
The library of the Library, the Imperial, of Pekin, extent of, i. 325. Its librarian, 198. great Buddhist temple of Pou-tou, ii. 197. Lieou ("The Willow"), the Mandarin, ii. 162. Description of him, 162. Appointed to the escort, 163.
Book of Kites, the, of Confucius, i. 143. Li-pou, the, or highest sovereign court, ii. 112. Literary aristocracy, the, or corporation of men of letters, i. 107. Its Almost the only nobility recognized, 109. influence, 108. Literary Composition, palace of, at Nan-tchang-fou, ii. 349. Literary Corporation, the, of Pa-toung, i. 313. Literary examinations, 313. Corruption both among the examiners and the examined, 314.
Li-ki, or
Literature, government of, in the provinces, i. 119. Held in great honor in Fou-ki-hien, 277. The Wen-tchang-koun, or Temple of Literary
Composition, there, 277. Low condition of, in China, 316. Contempt of the Chinese for the belles lettres, 316. Importance of Chinese
monuments, 325. The historian Sse-ma-tsien, 326. The Annals of Sse-ma-kouang, 326. French translation of this work,
literary
326.
Historical encyclopaedia of Ma-toun-lin, 326.

.'127.
Analysis of
tlio
work, 326,
Chinese light
literature,
ii.
;>7M.
INDEX.
Locomotion, various modes Lou, the river, i. 35.
Lou-ting-khaio, town
of, ii.
413
374.
of, i. 35. Bridge at, 35. Lo-yang, town of, first named the Central Kingdom, i, 353. Lu, a military Mandarin, appointment of, to the escort, i. 231. Caught in flagrante delicto, 242. Excluded from table, 244. His punishment, 253. Lun-yu, or Philosophical Conversations, the book so called, i. 139. Ly-fan-yeun, or colonial office of Pekin, i. 114. Ly-pou, or sovereign court of rites, constitution of, i. 113.
Macao, foundation
ii.
of,
i.
160.
Its decline, 160.
Return of M. Hue
to,
413.
See Mandarins. Maize, Kao-leang, its cultivation in the province of Sse-tchouen, i. 214. Mandarins, character of the, i. 29.- Ridiculous position of one, 43. Their communal palaces, 47. Their opium-smoking, 52. The Mandarin of Tching-tou-fou, 60. Their treatment of the Christians, 90. Titles bestowed on the most distinguished Mandarins, 109. Marks by which the various grades of Mandarins are known, 109. The name mandarin unknown to the Chinese themselves, 111. Probable origin of the name, 111. Rapacity of the Mandarins throughout the empire, 120. Sketch of the private life of a Mandarin and his family, 123. The Mandarins of the escort, 145. Lessons they sometimes receive, 180. Trickery of Mandarin Ting, 184. M. Hue's disputes with the Mandarins of Kientcheou, 195. Description of a military Mandarin of the escort, 231. The veracious Mandarin of Tchang-cheou-hien, 233. Disputes with the Mandarins of Leang-chan-hien, 238. Catching a Mandarin in flagrante delicto, 242. Duty of a Mandarin when dead bodies are found
Magistrates.
valiant Mandarin, 336. The under suspicious circumstances, 288. accomplished Mandarin of I-tou-hien, 340. The hospitable Mandarin of Long-tche-hien, 354. General conduct of the Mandarins, 357. Their responsibility for inferiors, 387. Their responsibility for suspicious deaths, ii. 37. Airs of a young Mandarin, 47. Boots of honor conferred on popular Mandarins, 75. Their conduct criticized by lampoons, etc., 76. Treatment of the tyrannical Mandarin of
Ping-fang, 78. Degeneracy of the magistrates throughout the emTheir Restrictions on the marriage of Mandarins, 220. pire, 93. power and_ emoluments, 253. scrupulous Mandarin, 319. Mongol Mandarin, 357. His geographical knowledge, 358. Manilla, Chinese Christians in, i. 175. Mantchou Tartars, language of the, i. 61. Their generosity, 183. Their injurious innovations since their conquest of China, 366. Fatal Their exclusion of foreffects of their policy on the empire, 368. eigners, 370, 371. Their battle with the Chinese of Kin-tcheou, 388.
Their unpopularity throughout the empire, 413. Mantchuria added to China, ii. 112. Manufactures of the Chinese Empire, ii. 119. Marco Polo, his travels, i. 159. His account of China, 103.
414
INDEX.
Customs respecting, ii. 21G, 217. PolygMarriages, Chinese, i. 259. amy, 218. Obstacles to the marriage of civil and military officers, 220. Receiving a proposal, 221. The wedding, 222. Laws concerning marriage, 261. Materialism of the Chinese, i. 176. Ma-touan-15n, his historical encyclopedia, work, 326. Maxims, collection of Celestial, ii. 379. Mayor, or Sian-yo, method of electing him,
i.
326.
Analysis of the
i.
108.
" The Medicine, college of, in Pekin, i. 118. Chinese work on (Si-yuen, the Medical of of the 287. Chinese, Pit," jurisprudence Washing 288. Chinese medicine, ii. 13, et seq. 26. Profession of medicine
free in China, 31.
Disgusting practice, 33.

ii.
Mei-ling, the mountain, passage of the, ii. 382. Melons, water, great number and beauty of those of Tien-men, Passion of the Chinese for the water-melon seed, 45.
45.
Mendicants, bands of, ii. 311. The "House of the Hens' Feathers," 314. Meng-tze, his classical book, i. 139. His place in the estimation of his countrymen, 139. Eulogium of M. Abel Kemusat on him, 140. Compared with Confucius and Socrates, and Diogenes, 140, 141. Merchandise, display of Chinese, i. 240.
Metempsychosis, belief
in,
of nearly
all
the pagans of Ho-nan, the Chinese,

ii.
ii.
328.
328, 329. Methodists, Protestant, their labors Military, government of the, i. 113.
The Houen,
among
i.
359.
Military government of the provinces,
120.
See Mandarin. Military officials. See Meng-tze. Mincius, the philosopher. Ming-jin, or Men of Ming, a name of China,
Monasteries, the, of the Bonzes,
i.
i.
351.
57; ii. 194. Montcorvin, Jean de, archbishop of Pekin, i. 159. Montesquieu, his picture of Chinese government, i. 104. Monuments erected to virgins and widows, i. 46. Those of Ning-po, 47. Mosquitoes, swarms of, i. 415. Mountains, their appearance in the province of Sse-tchouen, i. 214. Mountains of China, ii. 112, 114. Mourning, Chinese, ii. 208. Singular method of lamenting the dead, ii. 208. Regulation sorrows, 210. Long period of mourning, 214.
Laws concerning, 263. Music, Chinese, remarks on, ii. 276. Musical instruments, 276. The Idea we ought to have of the Yo-king, or Book of Music, 277. music of the ancients, 278. Musk, odor of, throughout the Celestial Empire, i. 45. i. 288. Murder, terrific variety of the Chinese
modoppf,
Nan, a title bestowed upon Mandarins, i. 109. Its vast storehouses and Nnn-hioang, town of, ii. 383. Nnn-tchang-fou, town of, ii. 349. Appearance of, 361.
Nautical races,
i.
port, 383.
389.
INDEX.
Naturalists, Chinese,
ii.
415
301, 302.
Navy, the Chinese, i. 121, 405. Number of sailors and of the warNaval and military officers, 407. Inexhaustible rejunks, 405. sources of China for a great navy, 411. Nei-ko, one of the two imperial councils, i. 111. Its duties, 111.
Newspapers, Chinese,
i.
115, 116.
See Inspector of Crimes. Ngan-tsha-sse, the, of Sse-tcheouen, i. 70. Ning-po, city of, great number of monuments in, i. 47.
Niu-chou, the Christian
priest,
i.
155.
Nobility, the, organization of,

Officers, civil
i.
109.
and
military.
See Mandarin.
,
eyes," story of, i. 101. Opium, smugglers in, i. 51. Introduction of opium into China, 52. Immense quantity consumed, 52. Method of smoking it, 53. Strictures on opium-dealers, 54. Deplorable consequences of opium-
Olopen, the priest, i. 154. " One man and two
Chinese and English opium, 55. English opium smoking, 54. consumers, 56. Ou-chan, town of, i. 283. Description of the prefect of, 286. Ou-tchang-fou, persecution of Christians at, i. 66, 88. Ou-tchang-fou, town of, ii. 108, 111. Its importance, 111.
Pagodas, vast numbers
of,
throughout the empire,

117.
i.
ii.
166.
Ornaments
and decorations of the, 166. Palace, the, imperial government of, i. Palaces, communal, or Koung-kouans,
Palanquin-bearer, the,
i.
47.
35.
258.!
Palanquin traveling, i. 270. Pan-houi-pan, the Chinese authoress,
i.
Pao-hing, viceroy of Sse-tchouen, i. 92. His interview with M. Hue and his companions, 93-95. Portrait of him, 93. His dispatch to the emperor, 96. His last interview with M. Hue, 146. His death,
" Pao-ngan, or Hidden Treasure," the Mandarin, sketch of the private His two sons, 126. life of, i. 123. Paper, respect for even scraps of waste paper on which letters are written or printed, ii. 201, 202. Pardons, general and special, ii. 257. Pastry, odoriferous, or hiang-you, i. 57. Pa-toung, town of, i. 296, 312, 329. Pauperism in China, ii. 309, 311. Bands of mendicants, 311. Causes of pauperism, 316. Peacocks, rarity of, in China, i. 210. Pecuniary societies, objects of, ii. 140, 141. Pekin, local administration of, i. 117. Government of the imperial Great scientific establishments of, 118. French palace of, 117. cemetery in, 148. Pekin Gazette, the, account of, 115, 116. Extent of the Imperial Library
of,
149, note.
325.
410
INDEX.
Pe-lien-kiao, or sect of the White Lily, i. 172. Perboyre, his martyrdom, i. 6G, 88. Scene of his death, ii. 95, 149, 231. Perocheau, M., his letter to M. Hue, i. 152. Persecutions at Tching-to-fou, i. 65. At Ou-tchang-fou, GG, 88, 89. Pey-chou, or saying a lesson at school, i. 133. Philosophical Conversations (Lun-yu), the, of Meng-txc, i. 140.
Phou-yong Lake,
Phy, a
title
the,
ii.
11G.
i.
bestowed upon Mandarins,
109.
Physicians, Chinese, ii. 9. The regular practitioner, 11, 13, 15. Pigs, the sacred, laws concerning, ii. 2G5. Ping-fang, town of, ii. 77. Its treatment by a tyrannical Mandarin, 78. Ping-hou, the lake, ii. 95. Navigation of, 9G. Ping-pou, or Sovereign Court of War, i. 113.
Pipe for smoking opium,

Pisciculture in Kiang-si,
i.
53.
ii.
3G5.
Placards, Chinese, ii. 76. Plan-carpin, the missionary, his travels, i. 158. Poem, specimen of a Chinese descriptive, i. 202. Polarity of the loadstone known to the Chinese 2500 B.C., ii. 119. Police, the, of China, i. 119. Praised Its antiquity, 131. Politeness of the Chinese, i. 47, 50, 131. by Confucius, 131. Instance of, in Viceroy of Sse-tchouen, 183. Political economy, Chinese, ii. 127. Kouari-tse, the celebrated economist, 128. System of Chinese economists upon interest of thirty
Politics, aversion of the
ii.
Tchao-yng, the econrnni^f, 130. Chinese to discuss, i. 116. Polygamy in China, i. 2GO. Although existing, not a legal Chinese inper cent. 130.
stitution,
218.
Population of China, ii. 98. of the multitudes in some
The method
localities, 98.
of registration, 98. Density Causes of the vast increase
in the population, 99. Porcelain, manufacture of, ii. 363. Curious and detailed account of, by Father D'Entrecolles, 363. History of the art, 363* 364. The god of porcelain, 364, 365.
Porters, long caravans of, i. 39. Portuguese, their re-discovery of China, Macao, 160.
Post-office, the,
i.
160.
Their foundation of
unknown in China, ii. 271. Description of him, 73. Pou-tching-sse, the, of Sse-tcheouen, i. 70. His examination of M. Hue, 74. Pou-tou, holy island of, ii. 194. Immense number of Bonze monasteries in the, 195. Beauty of island, 195. Magnificence of its temples, 1 '.id.
Pou-yang, lake, ii. 282, 284. ber of junks on the, 308.
Navigation of the, 307.
Immense num-
Productions, vast variety of the, of China, ii. 117. Press, liberty of the, an ancient institution in China,
ii.
85.
China and
France compared, 85. Promenade, public, not known
in China,
ii.
ii.
102.
Proverbs, collection of Celestial,
379.
INDEX.
417
Provinces, administration of the, i. 70, 119. Punishments, the most ordinary, ii. 244, 256. Arbitrary infliction of, 245. Penal character of the whole legislation of the Chinese, 245, 248. For impiety, 263. frightful example, 267.
Rain, superstitious practices to obtain, in times of drought, i. 234. The Dragon of Kain exiled by the Emperor, 235. Readers, public (chou-chou-ti), of China, ii. 87. Heading, method of teaching, i. 133. Reading Chinese, 322. Reason, Doctors of, ii. 171, 179. Regattas, i. 389. Religion ; all religions condemned by the Chinese government, ii. 189. The emperor Khang-hi's Collection of Sentences, 190. Paternal instruction of Young-tching, 190. Formula of skepticism, 191. The Bonzes neglected and treated with contempt, 193. Magnificent " libraries of the Bonzes, 194. Bonzesses, 203. Sect of Abstinent " women," 227. The Doctrine of the Lettered," 168. Confucius, 168. "Doctors of Reason," 171, 179. Buddhism, 179-187. Inconstancy of the Chinese in matters of, ii. 56. See Christianity.
See Pagodas. Religious edifices. Remusat, M. Abel, his eulogium on the classical book of Meng-tze ; i. 140. His remarks on Chinese politeness, 218. His acquirement of the Chinese language, 328. His remarks on the restrictions of Oriental arbitrary power, ii. 88. His remarks on the life and opinions of the pLilosoi<her Lao-tze, 171.
Representation, Palace of, in Pekin (Toun-tchin-sse), its duties, i. 114. Revenue, the management of, i. 108, 112. Department of the revenue in the provinces, 119. Revolution, general presentiment of, in China, i. 372. Great number of revolutions of the Chinese empire, ii. 60.
Rice wine, manufacture of, ii. 323. Riot in Ya-tcheou, i. 42. Constitution of the Sovereign Court of, 113. Rites, Tribunal of, i. 30. Book of (Li-ki), the, 142. Parting ceremonies, 149. Custom of Etiquette of offering hot towels after meals and on journeys, 182.
ceremonious visits, 219. Polite conversation, 223. acter of Chinese politeness, 292-294. Ricci, Father Matthew, missionary to China, i. 161.
death, 162.
Singular char-
His labors and
state of the, i. 213. The imperial high road, ii. 281. Robbers, Chinese, ii. 84. Summary punishment of, 84. Roman empire, called Ta-thsin by the Chinese, i. 154. Its introduction of Christianity into China, 154.
Roads of China,
Rope-dancers, ii. 384. Rubruk, the missionary, his travels,

Sailors, Chinese,
Salt,
i.
i.
158.
189.
i.
a government monopoly,
i.
120, 339.
Salt-wells in Sse-tchouen,
300.
8*
418
INDEX.
i.
San-dze-king, or Sacred Trimetrical Book,

tents, 134.
134.
Analysis of
its
con-
" Scarf of Felicity," or Khata, trade in the, i. 40. Skepticism ; its frightful spread in China, ii. 189.
cism, 191.
Schal, Father
Formula of
skepti-
Adam, missionary to China, i. 162. Schoolmaster, sketch of a Chinese, i. 128. Schools in China, i. 129. Chief branches of instruction scription of a, 133. Science, establishments for the promotion of, in Pekin, of scientific knowledge among the Chinese, 308.
Serica and the Seres, i. 352. Shipwrecks on the Blue River, i. 381-386. Shops, Chinese, i. 100. Sian-yo, or mayor, method of electing him,
in, 133.
DeState
i.
118.
i.
108.
Si-gnan-fou, monument and inscription at, i. 153. Si-hou, or Western Lake, the, ii. 116. Silk, Chinese, i. 352. Sinae-Sinenses, the, of the Romans, i. 352. for the French, Si-yang-jin, Fou-lang-sai, Chinese names
i.
349, 350.
Smoking opium.
See opium.
Smuggler, discovery of a, i. 331. Smugglers in opium, vast numbers of, i. 51. Snuff-boxes, 217. Snuff-taking in China, i. 216. Social amusements of the Chinese, i. 132. socialist chief Socialists, Chinese, of the eleventh century, ii. 61. of the time, 61. great social experiment, 65, 66. See Associations. Societies (or houis). Sohan, the priest, his mission to China, i. 154. Number of troops in the empire, 395, Soldiers, Mantchou, i. 393, 394. 396. Chinese soldiers, 395, 396. Song, dynasty of, i. 202. Its construction of superb roads throughout
the empire, 213. Songs, ancient Chinese (Che-king), collection of, made by Confucius, i. 142. Song-tche-hien, town of, i. 355. Hospitable Mandarin of, 355. His really paternal rule, 355. South, Mountains of the (Nan-ling), ii. 114. Sou-tsoung, the emperor, i. 155. Spring and Autumn, Book of (Tchun-thsiou), the, of Confucius, i. 143. Sse, or commissioners of provinces, i. 70. Sse-chou, or Four Classical Books, the, i. 135.
His poem, "The Sse-ma-kouang, prime minister, i. 202; ii. 63. Garden of Sse-ma-kouang," i. 202. His Annals of the Empire, 326. His ascendency, ii. 70. His death and magnificent funeral, 70. His great work, 326. Sse-ma-tsien, the Chinese historian, i. 326. Sse-tchouen (Four Valleys), province of, i. 40. Its fertility, 45, 296. Improvements in, under the administration of Ki-chan, 48. Extent and importance of, 29G. Temperature of, 296. Fertility of, 296
INDEX.
419
Inhabitants of, 297. Productions of 296, 297. Language of, 297. Their god of war, Kouang-ti, 297. Wells of salt and wells of fire in,
300. State of Christianity in, 310. Sse-ye, counselors or pedagogues of prefectures, i. 284. Staunton, Sir George, his translation of the Chinese code of laws, Streets, Chinese, i. 100.
ii.
245.
Suffering, Chinese dread of, i. 291. Sugar, cultivation of the cane in the province of Sse-tchouen, i. 214, 215. Sugar used in China, 215. Suicide common in China, i. 290. frequent method of wreaking vengeance on an enemy, 290, 291. Superstitions of the Chinese at the appearance of the cholera, ii. 29. Chase after a soul, 205. Mode of averting the malignant influences of evil-disposed spirits, 312, 313. Swallows, Chinese notions respecting the migratory habits of, ii. 301, 302.
Tachard, Father, missionary to China, i. 163. Tagales, the aboriginal inhabitants of the Philippines,
Ta-hio, or Grand Study, the, Tai-hou, or Great Lake, the,
i.
i.
175.
135. 116.
ii.
Tai-tsoung, the Emperor, his protection of the Christians in the eighth century, i. 154. Tao-kouang, the Emperor, i. 83. His edict in favor of Christians, 85.
His death, 116.

religions,
i.
His recommendation to his subjects to despise

ii.
all
170.
Tao-sse, or Doctors of Reason, tempt, 193.
171.
Treated with neglect and con-
Tatars, their conquest of China, i. 118. Their military watch over the high civil functionaries, 129. See Roman Empire. Ta-thsin, or the Roman Empire.
Ta-tsien-lou,
town
of,
i.
30.
Departure of M.
Hue
from, 31.
119.
Taxes, the, of China,
i.
112.
Those of the provinces,
Tchang
river, the,
ii.
348.
Tchang-cheou-hien, town of, i. 232. Tchang-hi, the Emperor, his opinion of the law courts, i. 124. Tchao family, of the town of Leang-chan-hien, imprisonment of the head of the, i. 243. His acquittal, 253.
Tchao-yng, the political economist, ii. 130. Tcheou, dynasty of, i. 353. Tcheou, the Chinese prefecture so called, i. 119. Tcheou, a second order of town, i. 59, note. Tcheou-koung, uncle of the Emperor Tching-wang, i. 353. Tchina, or China, origin of the word, i. 352. Tchinggis Khan, his invasions, ii. 71. Causes of his inundation of the world with blood, 73. ChrisTching-tou-fou, city of, appearance of the suburbs of, i. 56. tian of, 58. Tribunal of, 59. Persecution of prefect of, 60.
Christians in, 65, 66. Description of the city, 100. Its inhabitants, 102.
Tching-wang, the Emperor, i. 353. Tchoung-hoa, or Flower of the Centre, a name of China,
i.
354.
420
INDEX.
Tchoung-king, town of, i. 217, 330. Tchoung-kouo, or Empire of the Centre, a name of China, i. 353. Tchoung-tching, town of, i. 195. Tchoung-young, or Invariable Centre, the book so called, i. 137. Tchu-hi, his elementary lessons and conversations, i. 327. Tchun-thsiou, or Book of Spring and Autumn, the, of Confucius, i. 143. Tea, ceremony of taking, i. 223. Brick-tea, 39, 40. Tea-porters, 39. Tembowski, M., and the llussian mission of 1821, i. 395, 39G. Temples, religious, the magnificent, of Pou-tou, ii. 195, 19G. Seo
Pagodas.
Te-siou, the moralist, ii. 99. Thang-jin, or Men of Thang, a name of China, i. 350. Universal theatrical tastes of the ChiTheatre, Chinese, i. 2G8, 272.
nese, 271.
Thoung-thing Lake, the, ii. 116. Thsin-che-Hoang, the Emperor, his destruction of the ancient books, 142. His conquest of China, 351. Thsing-jin, or Men of Thsing, a name of China, i. 351.
i.
Tien-chao, the Celestial Empire, a name of China, i. 354. Tien-dze, or Son of Heaven, the title par excellence of the Emperor, i. 105. Tien-hia, Beneath the Heavens, a name of China, i. 354. Tien-men, town of, ii. 43. Visit from the Mandarins of, 44. Their Famed for the number and beauty of its waterattention, 44.
melons, 45. Tien-tchou, the Chinese name for the idea of God, i. 173. Tien-tchou-kiao, the Christian religion so called, i. 173. Tien-te, or Celestial Virtue, the name of the present pretender to the
throne,
i.
107.
appearance of, ii. 390. Timotheus, Patriarch of the Nestorians, his missions to China, i. 157. Ting, the Mandarin of the escort, i. 145'. His devotion to Kao-wang, 145. Trickery of, 184. His hilarity, and the causes of it, 190. His opinion of the souls of women, 263. His dramatic performances, 269, His discovery, 295. His wrath on the Blue Kiver, 332. His 272. His vow, 378, 383. His adieu, ii. 160. fright in a tempest, 378. His filial piety, 160. Titles of the Emperor, i. 105. Hereditary, do not exist except in the ImThe titles perial family and in the descendants of Confucius, 109. bestowed on distinguished Mandarins, 109. Titles not hereditary, but carried back to the ancestors, 110. Ti-tou, or highest military
officer,
Tigris, river, the
120.
Tobacco, the, of Leao-tong, 132, 216. Cultivation of, throughout the empire, 214, 215. Passionate fondness of the people for, 215. Called tambakou by the Mantchous, 215. Mark of a Pekin dealer in tobacco,
217. Snuff-taking, 217. Toun-tchin-sse, or Palace of Representation of Pekin, duties of, i. 114. Tou-tcha-yuen, or Office of Universal Censorship of Pekin, duties of, i.
114.
Towers, ancient, of the Chinese,
ii.
165.
INDEX.
Towns, three orders of Chinese,
of,
i.
421
59, note.
ii.
Chinese provincial, account
Uniformity of the plan of, Trade, vast internal, of China, ii. 111.
119.
164.
Infinitesimal trade of the Chi-
nese, 147.
Traveling, freedom of, in China, ii. 80. Trial ; a great trial presided over by missionaries, Chinese, ii. 237, et seq.
i.
247.
Details of a
Tribunals, the, description of, i. C3, 71. Tsien-tche, the political economist, extract from his writings,
139, 140.
Tse-liou-tsing,
ii.
132,
town
of,
i.
304.
i.
Christians
59, note.
of,
304.
Tsien, a third order of town,
Hurricanes of, 41. Tsing-khi-hien, town of, i. 41. Tsoung-ping, or vice-admiral, i. 121. Tsoung-tou, or governor-general of a province, i. 118.
Tze, a
title
bestowed upon Mandarins,

i.
i.
109.
Urbanity of the Chinese,
131.
Vacher, M., death of, i. 3, note, Vegetable productions of China, ii. 295. Verbiest, Father, missionary to China, i. 162. Verses, Book of (Che-king), the, cf Confucius, i, 142. Vine, culture of the, ii. 321. Vinegar polypus, description of the, ii. 344, 345. Virgins, honors paid to, i. 46. See Rites. Visits, ceremonious. Volcanoes in China, ii. 115. Voltaire, his picture of Chinese government, i. 104.
Hit socialist chief of the eleventh century, ii. 61. opponent, the minister, 63. His ascendency over the Emperor ChenHis expulsion from China, 72. tsoung, 69. War, Sovereign Court for the management of, i. 113. War, the, with the English, i. 401, 409.
Wang-ngan-che, a
War-god (Kouang-ti), i. 297. Watchman and criers, i. 228. Water communications of China,
ij.
143, 144.
Water-lily (lien-hoa), a favorite in all times in China, ii. 296, 297. Watson, Colonel, his introduction of opium into China, i. 52. Wei-chan (M. Hue's servant), his quarrel with an importunate visitor, i. 279. His proposal, 417. His attention and intelligence, ii. 160. His extravagant zeal, 234, 235. Savings of the road bestowed on him, 416.
Wells of
salt
and wells of fire,
i.
300.
Wen-tchang-konn, or Temple of Literary Composition, in Fcu-ki-hien, That of Nan-tchang-fou, ii. 349-353 i. 277.
Wheeler, vice-president, his introduction of opium into China,
i
52.
White lily (Pe-lien-kaio), sect of Widows, honors raid to, i, 46
the,
i.
172.
422
INDEX.
of,
Wine, warm, drunk by the Chinese, i. 132. Chinese manufacture Corn wine, 322. The mother of wine, 323. ii. 321, 322.
Women,
Christian, of China,
i.
256.
Abject condition of
women
throughout the empire, 258, et seq. Polygamy, 260. The condition of women ameliorated in Chinese Christian families, 261. The Mandarin Ting's opinion of women's souls, 263. Influence of women in the conversion of nations, 264, 265. Customs at marriages, ii. 217,
Domestic unhappiness, Secondary, or "little wives," 218. Servitude of women, 225. An affectionate husband, 227. Sect of " Abstinent Women," 227.
et seq.
225.
Works, Public, Supreme Court
of,
i.
114.
Writing, method of teaching, i. 133. History of Chinese writing, 321.
Value
set
on
fine writing, 133.
Xavier, St. Francis de, his mission to Japan,
i.
161.
Ya-lou, river, the, ii. 112. Ya-me-ly-kien, "Men of the Gaudy Banner," Chinese Americans, i. 350. JTang-ti, the Emperor, great canal of, ii. 144.
name
for the
Yang-tze-kiang, Blue River, the, i. 186. Navigation of, 187, 191, 271, 283, 330, 375, 376; ii. 108, 115. Shipwrecks on the, i. 381-386. Its site, 270. i'ao-tchang, town of, i. 266. Ya-tcheou, town of, i. 42. Riot in, 43.
Yellow River (Hoang-ho),
the,
ii.
115. 141.
Yen-tsing, or wells of salt, i. 300. Y-King, or Book of Changes, the,
i.
Yn
mountains, ii. 112. Yo-King, or Book of Music, the, ii. 277, 278. Young-tching, the Emperor, his persecution of the Christians, i. 164. His speech to the Jesuits in justification of his course, 172. His
paternal instructions, ii. 190, 191. Y-sou, the priest, his mission to China, Yu, or jade-stone, the, ii. 118.
i.
154.
Yuen, dynasty of, its construction of the vast system of canals, Yun-nan, province of, opium smuggling in, 51.
i.
214.
THE END.
This book
is
DUE
on the last date stamped below
1943 WAR 3 1943 APR 1
1 5
AUG 2 2 1960
BOX
Form L-9-15m-7,'32
3 1158 00289 9523
UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
000 578 762
UNIVERSITY
of
CALIFORNIA
Lob ANGELES
LIBRARY

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES

THE CHINESE EMPIRE,

RECOLLECTIONS OF A JOURNEY THROUGH TARTARY

Custom of presenting a Pair of Boots to a Placards and Advertisements Privileges and

Governor of the Province

We force the Guard of his

of Junks Desert Tracts Bands of Mendicants Society for Gra-

Wine, and Corn Brandy

Uncultivated Tracts in the Province of Kiang-si

ing possessed joyments of this

a mournful and bitter

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

Our long journey

so full of vicissitudes of every

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

and the means

so to speak, had been kindled in the

There was a very simple method

a certain quantity was therefore to be put

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

er than that of a Chinese.

every nation has some that are peculiar to

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

of the Central Nation."

and pronounced the sentence:

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

The Mandarins, who a minute before had

agree entirely with the opin-

The physician then went on: "The nature

yield with facil-

ity to the virtue of the medicines,

ters of the pulse."

and quiet," continued the

hour a dose of the medicine I

am going to prescribe." he rose, and went to seat himself at a

nail of frightful Jength, lie pointed to the

which we were tormented hindered us from following

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

operations to effect the prompt re-establishment of our

boil the drugs together in a vase

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

All these considerations could not but

for help in these

to the great Master has pleased to bestow on

Some abuses may

easily enter into

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

mentioned of their being prescribed and sold by the same

fear of being fleeced

the doctor has given rise

to a curious custom, quite in accordance

they ask the doctor to prescribe

and they examine the

strike out such

and run the

less of their black

brewages will probably make very

and very Chinese

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CHINESE EMPIRE.