Building the

Builder s Assistance Manual

for the AviPro Aircraft, Ltd. Quick-Build Bearhawk Kit

AviPro Aircraft, Ltd. www.bearhawkaircraft.com 602.971.3768

Revised: 18 Oct 07

BEARHAWK ASSISTANCE MANUAL Index

Chapter Project Overview Getting Started - What's needed? Engines and Props - Specs, dos and don'ts The Building Sequence THE FUSELAGE Landing Gear Installation Tailwheel Installation and choices Installing the Tail and Trim System The Control Stick System Rudder Pedal Assembly Flap Control System Floor Boards Seats Installing the Stringers Control Cables The Fuel System Brake System Cabin Air Vents Installing the Firewall The Boot Cowl Instrument Panel Engine Cowling and Nosebowl Doors Windshield Installation Interior Thoughts and Variations Fabric Covering the Fuselage Installing the Engine Appendices Appendix A - Hardware List by Application Appendix B - Hardware List Totaled by Types Appendix C - Random Covering Thoughts 8 12 13 17 19 21 23 26 28 30 31 34 37 38 40 46 49 55 58 62 64 66 Page 3 4 5 7

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At first, when you receive that huge package and start spreading the parts out, the concept of Welcome to the building an airplane not only becomes very real but Bearhawk Family often just a little overwhelming. Thats a natural reaction. This is a big project, but it isnt even close This document will help you find your way to being a difficult one. Its not brain surgery. If it into the world of the Bearhawk. Its not a step-by- were, so many others wouldnt be doing it. step guide so much as it is a map that will tell you Project Orientation where to go and when, as well as what to do as you If youll permit us to throw a little philosovisit each mini-destination on the way to the big phy at you, the key to finishing this, or any other one. Were assuming you know which end of a major project, is to develop a very definite project screwdriver to hang onto, so some of the basics will orientation mindset. This doesnt mean you lock be skipped. If there is a function that you do not yourself in the shop and have your significant other clearly understand, AviPro suggests you seek out a slide pizzas under the door periodically. What it qualified A & P mechanic. Additional information means is that you have to approach the project with is available from many sources, including the EAA, a very definite strategy in mind. You have to have a its chapters and its Technical Advisors. This manu - plan and thats where this document will help. It al is NOT intended to be the final authority. makes many of the decisions for you and is conIts important that you consider the plans stantly supplying an answer to the never ending you received from the designer, Bob Barrows, as question what do I do next? the final word on everything. This document is What this manual cannot give you is the designed to smooth out some of the concepts along basic mindset that is made up of certain ways of the way. Further valuable information will be found looking at the project along with developing certain in the following sources and it is of paramount building disciplines. At the risk of sounding a little importance you have the following and refer to basic here, wed like to mention a few subjects that, them constantly. Do not proceed without them: if you go into the Bearhawk-build with them in Beartracks newsletters & Bearhawk Book mind, the heartburn quotient will be much lower. Tony Bingelis books (see EAA) Some are aimed at helping complete the airplane Russ Erbs CD while others attempt to keep peace in the family. (www.qnet.com/~erbman/bearhawkcd.htm) Build time is agreed upon. Its essential FAA A/C 43.13. This is your Bible that not only your family be behind you, but that Other Builders Websites (Important!) you feel no guilt blocking out enough hours in the Help is ALWAYS available week to keep the project momentum going. The It is important you join the Bearhawk average BH builder is flying in 1,200 hours, so to Quick-Build chat group on-line. This puts you in finish in two years, you need twelve hours a week. contact with dozens of other builders AND gives Work space is sacrosanct. The family has you a direct link to AviPros tech people. Normally to realize a work shop is not where they store bikes, youll get an answer to a question in a few minutes. lawn mowers and other stuff they dont know what In addition, AviPro has people available 24/7 via to do with. Its called a work shop for a reason. cell phone, 602/738-2045. It would be appreciated, The build-schedule accommodates however, if you didnt call after 9 pm Phoenix, AZ honey-does and family time. The family wont be time. ALSO, PDFS OF THIS MANUAL WILL BE behind a project that impacts their own priorities, UPDATED CONSTANTLY SO CHECK THE so both have to be scheduled. BEARHAWK WEBSITE FOR THE LATEST. Every day something gets done. You dont This document will make no attempt to have to build a part every day, but you at least have train you in standard aircraft construction tech- to do something positive. Call and order parts, dooniques. What this document will do is tell you how dle an instrument panel. Its like working-out or and where to apply those techniques , but it will not dieting: a day off quickly becomes two, then three, mention every single operation. then.... It has to stay in the forefront of your mind. -3-

Getting Started
Make sure you Know What you Have As soon as you can, spread all the parts out and do a complete inventory. Were not superhuman, and it doesnt happen often, but we do make packing errors. Also, when checking all the parts remember that some small parts are packed inside the wings. Also, check to make sure that, if there is supposed to be a right and left of something, you dont have two rights, etc. Be prepared with a large number of trash bags or have a dumpster handy because there is A LOT of packing material involved. And dont even think about scrapping or cutting up the steel wing shipping crates. They have a number of uses well mention further on. Side deburring tool Dozen each #40 & #30 bits Dial caliper, high quality steel rule Work Space Although airplanes have been built in single-car garages, that requires planning and a place to store finished components (wings, etc.). It can be frustrating. A two-car garage, however, is fine. The wing crates are made from 1 square steel tubing and are five by fifteen feet and fifteen inches deep. With the fuselage bolted on top of the wings, the bundle is seventeen feet long and 92 high. The crates have jack points on the corners so you can use a bottle jack to put casters under it and the entire thing weighs about seven hundred pounds. With the engine and rudder on the fuselage it is twenty-one feet total length. To work on the wings youll need a flat table fifteen feet long, but dont build one. Take one of the wing crates and turn it upside down and use it as a table. You can sit it on saw horses or use the steel tubing from the top to make legs. Lay the foam from inside the crate on top and you have a perfect wing table.

Required Tools Shopping List The Bearhawk does NOT require you to own a welding torch or major sheet metal breaks or rollers. What it does require are the following: Air Compressor, min. 3 hp, 9 cfm, 125 psi Rivet gun, 2x or 3x Rivet Sets,(3,4, flush swivel head) Rivet squeezer, # 3, #4 sets and dimpling dies, dimple die for #6 screws, flush sets, . Bucking Bar assortment Hardware Required Back Riveting set for tank area Youll need to purchase all the hardware Rivet cutter (nuts & bolts, pulleys, cable, etc) and you might as Moisture/oil filter/separator for air comp. well do it all at one time. Wicks offers a complete Pressure regulator for air compressor hardware kit or you can use the detailed listing Spray guns, touch up and full coverage thats in the appendices and shop it yourself. The Clecos, 300 3/32, 100-1/8, 20-side grip vendors for all of the parts are also listed there. Hole deburring tool Dont be surprised if a few of the bolts are the Micro-stop, cage countersink and cutters wrong length: in a welded structure its nearly 3/32 and 1/8 impossible to get every one of them right. Pop rivet puller, w/3/32, 1/8 sets Duckbill snips Duplicate Your Plans and Newsletters Wiess snips, left, right and straight You absolutely need your plans and your Nicopress squeeze tool newsletters right at your elbow every second youre Nut plate drill jig for No. 6 screws building the airplane. They are the final authority Small sheet metal break (cheap one), 18 on the airplane. At the same time, youll want them Small sheet metal shear (optional) in the house where you can refer to them from time Drill press to time. You can buy duplicate plans (minus Thread taps, 1/4 x 28, older kits need Drawing 7, the airfoil mylar) from Bob Barrows for 5/16 & 3/8 fine thread taps. $30. Just give him your serial number. Personal paint protection (free air hood) Fly-cutter or Matco punch for panel -4-

Lets Talk About Engines and Props

Were going to talk about engines now because we want to make sure you understand that the engine is the very last thing you need to worry about. From the firewall back, all AviPro Bearhawks are identical. The only thing that changes is the motor mount. So, you can put off that one gigantic expenditure until much later. However, lets talk about the different engine options and the pros and cons of each. It should be mentioned that Bob Barrows prefers to see the engine weight kept under 400 pounds. Continental 0-470/520 engines weigh a little more than that so he has compensated for that in the design of the motor mounts. been flown in a Bearhawk yet, but it should be a good choice. The XP-400 would be another goodchoice and probaby less expensive.

Six-Cylinder Lycomings The 0-540 series of engines are heavier, but provide an increase in overall performance that is hard to believe. However, nothing is free, as the useful load will go down nearly two hundred pounds. Any 0-540 can be used as long as it is of a parallel-valve configuration. NOT angle-valve. The angle-valve engines weigh over 80 pounds more than the others. Whether it is a wide deck or narrow deck engine makes no difference. Four-Cylinder Lycomings There is a bewildering number of variations When buying any four-cylinder Lycoming on the 0-540 theme but the most significant facts make sure it has the Type I Dynafocal mounts include: because thats the most popular and the only one Available in 235 hp, 250, hp, 260 hp AviPro makes a mount for. We do not support the 235 hp engines (B series) are lower conical mount engines. compression engines capable of burning automoThe pros and cons of the different sizes and tive fuel. They are also cheaper and easier to types of engines are summarized below; acquire. Performance is still unbelievable. 0-320, 150/160 hp Hartzell constant props can only be used Absolutely adequate for the airplane but on O-540 A4XX, 0-540-B4XX, -J3XX engines. All requires the builder pay particular attention to other series of 540s, which are usually early keeping the airplane light. Kept reasonably light, engines, must be modified w/heavier crank shaft the overall performance will be better than a C-172 counterweights or use a McCauley prop. by a measurable amount. ALL 540 Lycomings can be easily modi0-360, 180 hp fied with the heavier counter weights and they can The 180 hp engine is probably the best be installed without disassembling the engine by choice for 90% of BH builders and is not only removing cylinder No. 6. The parts and instructions available new in the various XP experimental are available from Johnston Aircraft Svc, Inc, P.O. engine kits but offers performance in excess of a Box 1457 Tulare Municipal Arpt Tulare CA 93274 Cessna 182, although cruise will be lower, around United States, 559-686-2161, www.johnstonair135-145 mph. Although not a requirement, a con- craft.com. stant speed propeller will make it possible to better The average fuel burn of a 540 is approxutilize both ends of the airplanes speed envelop. imately 12.5 gph versus, 9.5 for an 0-360 at 65%. 0-360 Barrows Special However, if the 540 is throttled back to the same 200 hp engine from Bob Barrows. speed, the fuel burn is about the same as the 0-360. IO-360, 200 hp There are two types of mount ears on 0A little heavier, the IO-360 gives additional 540s, the Type I has 1 3/8 holes the Type II has 2 performance, although any fuel injection system holes. These determine which AviPro motor mount can complicate the fuel system you need and which motor mount rubbers to buy. IO-390, Lycoming, 210 hp The mount lugs bolt to the engine case so are interA brand new engine, it appears to offer the changeable, but expensive. best of both worlds in many situations. None have -5-

Continental 0-470/520 The six-cylinder Continental 0-470 engines represent good buys on the used market and are smooth running, well known engines. Usually heavier than 0-540 Lycoming Use McCauley props 215-230 hp 0-520, 260-285 hp, heavier but adaptable. IO-470 is 260 hp, but theres the probability of firewall interference with the longer fuel handling unit at the rear so its not recommended. Some cowling mods required

however, you also have to factor in the cost of the governor ($1,300-$2,300, new, 2006 dollars) as well. The longest propeller you can use when turning the engine 2,700 rpm is 84 but in certain cooler environments that may be too long as the tips will come too close to supersonic. However, limiting it to a lower rpm, will remedy that. The shortest should be in the 80 range.

Three-blade versus two-blade This is a very controversial subject and the results of using a three-blade versus a two-blade Automotive Engines vary greatly from prop to prop and between manuAviPro does not provide any support servic- facturers. As a normal rule it is seldom that the es for automotive conversion so youll be designing same three-blade prop offers consistent advantages your own motor mount, cowling, etc. We do not across the speed range. Some will give a very discourage these kinds of installations, as thats slightly higher cruise but climb isnt improved and what homebuilding is all about, but we have no some will improve climb but speed remains the information on them and can be of no service to same or even goes down. In all cases, the differbuilders who decide to go that direction. Several ences are so small that they are difficult to measure. are being built to use Mazda rotary engines and one Plus a three-blade prop is a minimum of eighteen plansbuilt BH is flying with a Rover V-8. pounds heavier, requires a different spinner and is We can put you in contact with builders approximately $1,200 more. who are using automotive conversions. One very big improvement instantly realized from a three-blade prop is that they are much A Propeller Discussion smoother than a two-blade. They also give more Even though most people use a constant ground clearance, although the two-blade has plenspeed propeller on the airplane, that is not a neces- ty. Besides the foregoing, three-blade props look sity. A fixed pitch prop will work fine and itll save very cool. around thirty-five pounds and many thousands of dollars. The downside to using a fixed pitch prop is that, of necessity, it will be a compromise in most parts of the flight regime. Because the Bearhawk has such a wide speed envelope, regardless of how you have a fixed pitch prop pitched, it will be slightly wrong at least part of the time. However, if you just want to enjoy flying and maximum performance isnt your goal, theres no reason not to use a fixed pitch prop but build light for CG. A constant speed propeller allows the prop to adjust itself to offer maximum engine and propeller efficiency through out the flight envelope. It wont necessarily take off faster than a fixed pitch prop that is pitched for max takeoff rpm, but it will cruise much faster than that same prop. It is simply Robbie Staton hung a three-blade on the front of his fire the best way to optimize both takeoff and cruise. breathing, Monte Barrett, cold air induction 540 hotrod. When using a constant speed propeller, -6-

What Do You Do FirstWhats the Building Sequence?

Before even unpacking your kit, make sure your work shop is ready to go to work. As tempting as it is to started opening crates and unwrapping things, get the work area ready first, then you have a much less chance of losing or damaging some part of the kit. Ideally, a series of shelves and/or pegboard hangars to visually display the parts should be ready to go. Fuselage or Wings? Which First? It makes no difference which you start first, the wings or the fuselage. With the obvious exception of the wing fittings, struts and fuel system/control system interfaces, the wings and the fuselage represent different building entities, so you can build and complete one in its entirety before starting on the other. If it makes any difference in your decision, the fuselage takes significantly longer than the wings to complete. However, the wings, when completed, can be put back in the crates and easily stored where the fuselage is a pretty good sized unit and more difficult to store, when finished. Especially with the tail mounted. All that having been said, most people like to start on the fuselage first, if only because it looks more like an airplane and gives them more visual pleasure because of that. Regardless of which you start with, it is essential you have a formalized plan of attack in which you begin on a given aspect of that particular unit and finish that part of it before progressing on to the next. Hop Scotching around the airplane is a great way to forget where youre at and do something wrong. ready to go and all wiring done BEFORE covering the fuselage. It is so tempting to put the covering on so it looks more like an airplane but fight the temptation. Covering greatly complicates access to the inside of the fuselage and it is so much easier to work on the systems inside the fuselage before the covering OR the boot cowl is attached. Plus, when the fabric is on the airplane and youre working around it, you always have to be doubly careful not to accidentally poke or tear it.

Mark Goldberg was at this stage at 130 hours

Heres a suggested sequence of events for doing the fuselage. When doing any of this kind of work, always refer constantly to your plans and Beartracks. They are the final authority. There will be detailed explanations for each of the following operations later in this assembly manual. Put bare fuselage on saw horses high enough to put the gear on it. Assemble shock struts Install brake calipers Attach landing gear Install wheels and tires Install tailwheel spring and tailwheel. Now the airplane can sit on its gear. Install rudder pedal assembly Assembly Sequences install flap assembly The following sequences lay out a suggest install control stick assembly ed order of events, but, with only a few exceptions, Make floor boards this isnt cast in concrete. There is some flexibility, Install tail and tail struts although some operations cant proceed until Run control cables and pulleys another one is at least started. Run fuel lines and fuel valve Fuselage Sequence Install seats Heres a very, very strong recommendation Install trim system concerning fuselage construction: have the fuselage Install fuselage stringers completely finished, meaning all the control sys Fabricate rear cargo bulkhead tems in, the cables run, fuel lines in place, seats Install firewall -7-

 Install motor mount Fabricate/install instrument panel Install instruments, wiring (optional) Fabricate/install boot cowl Install brake reservoir, master cylinders Run brake lines Install windshield (optional) Install engine, prop, spinner Fabricate/install cowling. Fabricate door skins Install doors Install covering Wing Building Sequence Unpack wings drill out pop rivets Install flaps system Install aileron actuation system Install flaps and ailerons Install fuel tanks & fuel lines Run electrical conduits Plumb pitot tube

Torque all bolts install stiffeners at trailing edge Rivet top skins Install aileron pocket skin Rivet tank bay stiffeners Finish access panels install wing tips Finishing sequence Set incidence and finish drill wing fittings Set dihedral and drill struts Hang wings Finish fuel line hook up Connect flaps controls to wings Connect wing fuel lines to fuselage Make wing/fuselage fairings Make tail/fuselage fairings Cover Paint Reassemble Go Flying

This is what 100 days of building gets you. Jan Gutwein of Francisville, Indiana shows off his family and his handiwork

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Putting its Legs Under it: The Landing Gear

With the exception of drilling and tapping the shock struts for a fill plug, which is not necessary on later kits, installing the O rings, assembling the struts and mounting the brakes and landing gear is very much a bolt-on process. over the rod/tube thats welded to the plunger. Then place the bronze top cap, with the O-rings installed, in place on top the spring. Place a 3/4, 1/2 drive socket on top of the top cap and over the shaft to act as a spacer.

Assembling the Shock Struts You need to assemble the shock struts before you can attach the gear legs and put the airplane up on its landing gear. If you look at the plans (drawing No. 25) youll see how the struts go together. Theres a big spring thats compressed within the tube and a bronze cap inserted in the strut that is held in place by a snap ring. Before doing any assembly work, you need to drill and tap the fill hole as indicated on the plans. Not necessary on later kits. Be sure to drill O-rings form the seal between both the bronze cap and the plug hole on what will be the upper, outside of The the shock strut and the shaft coming through it. When the gear strutthe highest pointas this allows for installing, lube the rings slightly with oil and be careful not to getting the maximum amount of fluid into the strut. nick them. It is critical that the shock strut always have as Thread a 1/2x 20 bolt into the rod. As it is much fluid in it as it will hold for the gear to func- tightened, this will compress the spring. Keep tighttion properly. Ideally, there should be no air in it. ening the bolt (youll need help holding the strut) The following does not apply to later kits as until its short enough to allow inserting the snap the plug is already in place. The filler plug uses 1/8 ring into the groove in the shock strut when the unit National Pipe Thread threads (you need a NPT tap, NOT a regular machine thread tap and the hole is drilled with a 11/32 drill bit) and make sure, when you screw it in, that it bottoms out on the threads BEFORE the end of the plug protrudes inside the strut where it can impact the function of the parts. Depending on how deeply you cut the threads, you might need to grind the nose off the plug to get clearance. When assembling the strut itself, first, deburr all the parts with emery cloth to make sure that the O-rings have a nice, smooth surface to slide on When installing the internals in the strut, it is much easier if when assembling the shock strut. In fact, try to get you compress the spring using the above method--run a bolt through a socket and compress just enough to get the snap a smooth polish on the top half of the shaft. Do a trial fit of the small parts first to see ring in the grove. where the O-rings are going to go, because if there slides into the housing. It is a very tight fit, but with are any sharp edges on anything, it might cut those minimal tapping, it will slide in fine. O-rings rather than compressing them. You should The top cap needs to be pushed down just lubricate the O-rings with grease before you enough to barely allow the snap ring to be inserted. attempt to assemble anything. Once youve done If the groove isnt ready accessible, remove the all of the above, put the O-rings in their appropriate spring assembly and tighten the bolt some more. grooves and prepare to assemble the strut. Have have the snap ring ready to go on your The biggest trick in doing the assembly is snap ring pliers. Snap ring pliers that have 45 compressing the heavy spring about 1/4 to allow degree angle noses work well. They stay out of the the snap ring to slide into the retaining groove in way and get the snap ring in place. Use high qualithe shock strut on top of the bronze top cap. ty snap-ring plies as the cheap ones will drive you Follow these steps: Slip the heavy spring nuts. You may need to chase the snap ring down -9-

into the strut with a big screwdriver. An extra set of hands or a vice to hold the unit helps. Tap the snap ring in place to make sure its well-seated before taking the bolt out. Nearly half of its width should disappear into the machined groove (1/16 plus).Notice, however, that the snap ring is tapered so the amount visible wont be even. USE ONLY THE APPROVED SNAP RINGS AS SUPPLIED BY BOB BARROWS OR AVIPRO. Replace the bolt with an Aurora XAM-7M

eter of the bearing down to 3/8. Now, put the struts aside while you finish putting the brake assemblies on the gear legs. Installing the Brakes The following breaks down the specifications on the various Cleveland brakes. A singlepuck brake is more than adequate for all but the harshest applications using bigger tires.

The clearance for the caliper nuts is minimal and may require grinding at least one nut for clearance. Three 5/16 bolts is adequate for the installation.

Typical brake line routing, although it is advisable to have the last part of the line going into the caliper be a flexible line. Matco brakes are shown.

Cleveland Part Numbers: 199-104 - Magnesuim wheel 1750lb static and single puck 199-105 - Aluminum wheel 1500lb static and single puck 199-60 - Aluminum wheel 2500lb static and double puck 6.00x6 tire only three bolt 199-62 - Aluminum wheel 2500lb static and double puck 6.00/7.00/8.00x6 tire three bolt The brake mounting flanges on the gear legs have no holes drilled in them allowing the brake assemblies to be positioned at any angle. However, the most practical (better ground clear-

rod end bearing (grease the threads with thread sealant) and youre ready to put the strut into the airplane. You will only have room for a very thin jam nut between the bearing and the shaft. If you dont have room, use blue Loc-Tite on the threads. Dont tighten the jam nut or use Loc-Tite until the very final phases of assembling the airplane because youll be adjusting them to align the landing gear AFTER THE AIRPLANE IS COMPLETELY FINISHED. When the aircraft is complete you will adjust the landing gear to give a tread of 72 at normal flying weights and 74 at gross. Just roll the airplane forward and backward a number of times and the gear will center up for measurements. Do NOT use any bearing other than the Aurora specified. Youll find two small 7/16 diameter bushings in the kit that are used to bush the inside diam-

Install a 90-degree bulkhead fitting at the top of the gear leg and a flex-line from there to the brake line inside the fuselage. This is to allow the gear leg to move.

ance, maintenance, etc) is to mount them pointing straight ahead to slightly down. Carefully mock up all the wheel and brake parts before drilling any holes, making sure every-

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thing is in the right relation to each other. Notice how the bolt holes in the mount pad are going to be really close to the gear leg, so you have to be very careful about where you drill the mounting holes. This also determines, to a certain extent, the angle the calipers will be mounted on the mounting flange. Drill and use at least 3 of the 4 holes to attach the caliper assembly (3 AN5 or 4 AN4 bolts). Depending on the brakes used, you may have to bush the caliper mount plate holes down in size. The holes are very close to the weld beads, so you may have to grind a washer and put under the nut to get clearance on the inboard sides. You may also have to grind one or two nuts slightly to fit. Use Nyloc nuts. With the brakes installed, youre ready to hang the gear on the fuselage using the bolts called out in the plans. When installing the wheels, notice youll need spacers between the wheels and the brake mounting flanges to align the brake disks up with the brake calipers. The spacers supplied with the kit will properly position most wheel and brake assemblies (Cleveland 199-60s) but there are bound to be those that require different spacers, e.g. Matcos and Groves. They can easily be made from commonly available aluminum tubing.

The 600 x 6 tire will handle 99% of most Bearhawkers flying, but many go for the 7.00, as shown here, just in case. The 8.50 is significantly larger and heavier and slows the airplane quite a bit.

If, however, you want to make sure, without going to a really big size, moving up to 7.00 x 6 tires will give you added margin and will cost almost nothing in performance. Below is a chart comparing the commonly available tires and their rolling diameter. Notice the big jump from 8.00 to 8.50 x 6.

Heres a double puck Cleveland for comparison. The single-puck 199-105 Cleveland brake.

A discussion about tire sizes. The Bearhawk is ideally suited to perform a wide range of missions from taking the family to see grandma to hauling a dead moose off a backwoods sandbar and about the only change necessary is tire size. However, there is a real tendency to think big tires are necessary to land on grass and dirt runways, which simply isnt the case. The normal 600 x 6 tires will handle most surfaces 95% of BH builders will ever see. Only if the runway is rutted, rocky, etc., is it necessary to go to bigger, more rugged footwear. -11-

Tire Size Comparison Size Dia.. width 600 17" 6.3 700 18.25" 7 8.00 19.2" 7.95 8.50 22.1" 8.85 26 26 10

Tailwheel installation
Maule Tundra Scott 3200 Bob Wheel

Lets talk about tailwheels for a minute or two. In reality you have only three sources to chose from: Maule, Scott and The Bob Wheel. However, you cant use just any Scott or Maule. It has to be able to handle the tail weight of the BH. This means the field is narrowed to the Scott 3200, the Maule Tundra and The Bob Wheel (Scott Weinberg, www.irondesign-airparts.com/tailwheels.htm). The biggest difference between them is cost, as theyll all do the job. In terms of installation they are all Open up the hole for bolt clearance with a file or Dremel tool. the same. When buying your tailwheel, however, The very latest springs have the hole already opened up make sure you have the adapters (if necessary) to Thats on purpose so the AN4 bolts on each side fit it to the 1.5 spring supplied in the kit can pull the spring up tight. The gap should be no Spring Modifications more than .020 and bolt tension will take that up. When installing the tailwheel start with the If it is greatly more than that, contact AviPro and spring. It uses a bolt in front and is clamped to the fuselage at the back using a U clamp provided by AviPro. A slight modification is required at the rear of the spring where the bolt that holds the tailwheel goes through. It is necessary that you make that hole into an oval so the scissor action between the two leafs that occurs while the spring is flexing doesnt try to fail the bolt in shear. The easiest way to open up the holes is with Open up the hole for bolt clearance with a file or Dremel tool. a Dremel tool or die grinder and a small grinding The smaller round file is for sharpening regular chain saws stone or carbide bit, although a large chain saw and available at hardware stores. The larger one (3/8) is for industrial chain saws and is available from Bishop sharpening file works too. Look down through the sharpening Company, www.bishco.com. two leaves and grind the holes into an oval that is about 1/8 bigger, fore and aft, than the hole was. we will ship you a new clamp. Itll be the original dimension side to side. This is When bolting the unit on the spring dont clearly shown in the plans. tighten the bolt too tight. The spring leaves need to Installing the Spring Clamp be able to slide. Notice that the U shaped spring clamp The springs to the rudder horn should have will nest around the spring but just barely lacks just enough tension on them that there is no slack in touching the mount thats welded to the tail post. the chains. -12-

Installing the Tail

and paint on it, so you have to make an educated guess as to how much fabric and paint weight will have to be balanced. See Bobs Bearhawk Book, pg. 29 for more detail. This is done by folding up the approximate amount of fabric that will be used to cover the tail and laying it in approximately the center of the elevator surface. At the same time, youll have to add a little weight on the fabric to simulate the paint/finish. Fortunately, the tail doesnt have to be balanced exactly. The tail is inserted in fittings and in a short carry-through tube at the front. All Casting the weights isnt as comholes were drilled with the tail installed on your airplane so, if the holes dont line up, you have it together wrong. The early, big trim tab is shown. plicated as it would first appear because you are going to actually cast them in It is possible to assemble the tail parts in a position on the tail by making up some crude forms number of different ways, but there is only one where the holes match. So, if the holes dont match, and dams to contain the lead. A word about lead: its fumes are dangerous. youre doing it wrong because the holes were all match drilled with the parts in place on the fuse- Only work outdoors and preferably with enough of a breeze to keep the fumes away from your sensilage. The halves should be marked right/left. The carry-through tube in the center of the tive nose. Using a paint respirator is a good idea fuselagethe piece the horizontal stab leading and heavy gloves and safety goggles are a must. You can get all the raw lead you need by edge slides overalso has to be correctly oriented. It has a top and bottom, left and right and, if the going to a large tire shop and getting a couple of holes dont line up, youre still doing it wrong.The large coffee cans full of old tire weights. They will be throwing them away, so the price should be parts should be marked left and right. The 1/2 bushings supplied with your kit right. Dont worry about the clips on them. Youll need a small cast iron pot or ladle to go between the carry-through tube and the fuselage mount and will give your horizontal stab the four melt them in, although a coffee can and a pair of degree down deflection called for in the plans (or vice grips will work. A long, feathery flame on a welding or propane torch is all you need to melt very close to it). them. Just play the flame directly on the lead and Casting the Elevator Balances Safety Note: Do not melt lead or otherwise keep your face away as all sorts of fumes come up work with it without wearing safety glasses and a as the oil and dirt on the weights gets cooked. Make respirator and do all lead work in a well ventilated sure your weights are dry so they dont generate steam that can cause the lead to pop. area. When the lead melts, the steel attach hooks The plans and Bear Tracks both mention and all of the impurities will float to the top and you balancing the elevators with lead and, when the word balance is used, that means putting enough can easily skim them off (its called dross) with a lead in the balance area (the part sticking ahead of piece of wood, then you have perfectly pure lead. Youre going to cast the lead right in place the hinge line) so that, when the surface has paint and fabric on it, it will balance horizontally (push it on the elevator so your mold is going to be built around the tail and its really pretty simple. down and it comes back up and vice versa). First drill a few holes in the tabs welded There is a little guess work here because you cant balance the surface when it has the fabric into the balance area to give something for the lead to hold onto. You might even put a screw through -13-

Trim Tabs Youll need to cut the trim tab section free from the elevator, which is a simple hacksaw job. After freeing the piece up, make up an epoxy slurry of some kind (epoxy and microballoons, epoxy and saw dust, its not important) and plug the holes where the cuts are. It wont take much as the fabric will cover it anyway. To hinge the tabs, use .188 (3/16) cleviss. Before you can put the two elevator halves together you need to install the trim tab actuating tube and arm because they run span-wise through the ribs and have to be installed before the two halves are joined. Before doing that, sand the paint out of the pivot tubes that are welded into the ribs and grease them. Insert the trim tab tube (one on each side) then orient the actuation arm on the outboard end Pouring lead. Note form is just 1/4 plywood clamed tight to and drill and bolt it. See the plans and Bear Tracks tail. Drill holes in tabs and put screws in edge of tubing before pouring. to give lead attach points USE A FACE and line the arms up so they are in alignment with MASK, RESPERATOR AND DO IT OUTSIDE OR WITH their respective cable or arm. Make up spacers from PLENTY OF VENTLATION. LEAD IS NASTY STUFF! the tabs but make sure it doesnt protrude above the hardware store aluminum tubing and slide over the surface of the lead. Also, run a few screws into the actuating tube to hold everything in place left and tubing and let them protrude. You can also run a couple screws through the rib surface. This is all to give the lead something really solid to flow around and lock it in place. . Then take pieces of thin plywood (1/4 will work) and clamp them to the upper and lower part of the area that will receive the lead. That forms the surfaces of your mold. Now, melt your lead and pour it into your makeshift mold making certain you pour in more than is needed so it runs over the edge (keep your feet out of the way). Once it cools, you can rough shape it with a cabinet rasp and 60 grip sand paper. Clean the rasp often as itll load up very quickly. An alternative is to mix a slurry of lead shot Install the black trim tab actuating tubes before assembling and epoxy. This will need a larger volume for the stab halves. Orient the bellcrank vertically and drill the holes, then do the same for the actuating arm on the outboard ends same weight but isnt hazardous to your health. of the same tubes. Note the trim cable running from the bot Now, install your elevator on the horizontal tom and top of the trim tab actuating arms. See trim wheel stab making certain the hinges are lubricated and photo further on for more information. free. Put your dummy fabric and paint weights on right. You dont need to install the trim tab actuatthe bare elevator and see if it appears to be baling link now, but you might locate it. Its the long, anced. Its probably not but itll be close and, if you put more lead than you need in the cavity, you can 5/16 tube with a welded fork on one end and is balance it by gradually drilling weight out of the threaded on the other. Youll need to bend it to clear the tail, when the elevator is full up. rear-facing edge. -14-

tapped holes in the hinges. and used as a removable Elevator/Rudder Hinge Details adapter for the grease gun. Note! The following paragraph only applies Screw the grease fitting into the hinge until to fuselages #23 and above: it lightly contacts the tube inside. Then back it out Where the hinges slide forward over the just a little. You can now grease the hinge with a horizontal stab spar, there are little Vs welded to grease gun. Then remove the grease fitting and use the rear of the spar. They are meant to support and it on the remaining hinges . reinforce the hinge straps. The same Vs are weldFrom serial number 24 on, surface hinges ed on the vertical stabilizer spar inline with the rud- have a small hole drilled on the top of the hinge der hinges. On earlier kits, all of these Vs, six in (elevators) or the sides (rudder). Drip some lubritotal, are too long on purpose so you can file them cating oil into the holes and move the control surdown so the hinges can just barely be slid over face until the oil spreads out. Lubricate at annual, them. Up to .020 gap is acceptable. IF YOU or more often, if you fly in wet conditions. MOUNT YOUR TAIL SURFACES WITHOUT The way the elevators are joined in the midFILING THE Vs TO FIT, YOU MAY DAMAGE dle is pretty obvious but, when bolting them togethTHE HINGES. In later kits, these are already filed er, leave the outside holes empty for the elevator to length. You may also have to spring the hinge cables. straps on the elevator and rudder apart so they are Dont do Anything Final parallel because the welding will have pulled them Youre going to have the tail on and off the in. airplane a couple dozen times so theres no reason Fuselages #1 thru #22 use a reinforcing to bolt anything tight. It is, however, a good idea to piece on the outside of the hinge and have no Vs.. put at least the tail struts on it so the tail is more staGreasing the Tail Surface Hinges: ble and less likely to be hurt by backing into it or Fuselage numbers 1-22 have holes in the having a visitor sit on it. tail surface hinges that have been tapped for a A Word About the Tail Strut Clevis

Early kits used Zerks in a threaded hole. This was surplanted with a simple hole for greasing. It is advisable to NOT install the Zerk permanently but use a modified one for greasing and then remove it. AN3 bolts go in the empty tubes, top center, to act as rudder stops. Tap the bushings for threads.

Tail strut clevis fork needs washers to keep from crushing it. This is also an excellent example of why you paint all the parts separately, rather than when assembled. Painting hard ware always results in flaking paint.

grease fitting. We recommend that instead of permanently installing grease fittings, a grease Zerk is modified to act as a removable tip for a grease gun. It works best to take a common grease fitting and remove the little spring inside. The thread portion needs to be shortened, so screw a nut on the Zerk fitting and thread it all the way down. Then grind or file some of the threads off to shorten the unit. Removing the nut will restore the threads so that the grease fitting can be screwed into the -15-

The fork at the bottom of the horizontal tail strut has a wider gap in it than the thickness of the attach tab that sticks off the bottom longeron. So, when you put a bolt through it, you cant tighten it up without bending the fork. To prevent that, when you do your final assembly, put at least one thin washer inside the fork against the tab. That way you can tighten the bolt down and not hurt anything. This will stop any sideways movement and keep vibration from wallowing out the holes.

Here a Cessna trim wheel has been used. Be careful when selecting trim wheels so they clear the fabric overhead. AviPro now makes a trim wheel specially designed for the application.

The relationship of the elevator horns and the trim horns are clearly seen with the trim horns being on the black tube.

The trim wheel from AviPro clears the fabric. It is designed for 1/4 roller chain available a hardware stores. Attach the 1/16 cable by threading it through the end links and nicopressing.

Trim System Essentially the trim system is nothing but two 1/16 cables running from the top and bottom of the actuating arms on the black trim tab torque tube. They are connected to a length of 1/4 roller chain that runs around the small sprocket on the trim wheel. The trim wheel is suspended between the two standoffs in the middle of the main spar

carry through tube overhead. The cables run through fairleads that are located in the middle top of the fuselage. Early kits relied on twisting the cables upon each other or a separate tension block to supply friction to the cable. Later kits, which have stand offs only about an inch and a half apart use a friction system as described in Bear Tracks or later plans. It includes tensioning washers against the trim wheel. All ends are nicopressed or swaged. About Flying Wires The flying wires and cleviss are available from Steen Aerolab. The most popular combination is streamline wires on the top and round wires on the bottom of the tail where they can be damaged.

The rudder horn. Note the shackles and Nicopressed cables.

Another view showing how the trim and elevator cables are routed.

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Installing the Control Stick System

Mount the control stick torque tube to the tabs in the fuselage. Then, when the rudder assembly is also attached, make the floor boards and fit them between. This builder opted to make his floor boards permanent and bolted everything through them.

General Considerations When installing the control stick torque tube and its related items, dont worry about where the control stick itself is in relation to the seat or in relation to the length of your arms. That is all adjustable by varying the length of the pushrod to the bell crank to make the sticks sit right where you want them. You do, however, need to pay some attention to where the torque tube assembly mounts in relation to the fuselage mounting tabs AND in relation to the aileron cable pulley at the bottom of the struts. Also, there are four small bushes supplied with the kit for bushing a 1/4 shackle down to 3/16. Cable/Pulley Alignment The stick assembly needs to be attached to the metal brackets on the fuselage so that the aileron cables coming out are as closely aligned as possible with the pulleys on the fuselage sides AND with those further back in the fuselage in the belly. They can be out of line just a little, but you should strive for perfection. Bolting the Assembly in Place Be careful where the bolts that secure the stick assembly to the fuselage tabs fall. If you move the stick assembly too far aft, you will not be able to get nuts on the rear bolts because the tube that

Position the stick torque tube so tit aligns with the aileron pul ley as closely as possible. However, some angle is okay.

The mounting tab in the picture will have to be moved forward at least 1/8 to give room for the rear nut, which will have to be ground on one side to clear.

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crosses from side to side behind the tab will interfere. Again, the idea here is to align the cables to the pulleys at the fuselage sides (at the bottom of the wing strut) and back in the belly.

able. Elevator Cable Routing The stick assembly is connected to the elevator bell crank via a small pushrod with a rod end bearing on either end. Then the elevator cables are routed from the top and bottom of the bell crank and aft through the first pulley bracket towards the tail of the airplane. Install the three pulleys, as per the drawings. There is nothing unusual here The cable at the bottom of the elevator bell crank passes through the middle pulley of the three pulleys on the bottom of the airplane. The cable coming from the top of the elevator bell crank runs through the far left pulley (looking forward). Just for future reference, the flap cable goes through the remaining pulley. The elevator bell crank just aft of the torque tube at the front edge of the seats is free to move

Elevator bellcrank as seen from left, rear: Use tubing spacers to move it slightly off center to avoid interference with flap cable. Cable from top of bellcrank goes to the left pulley behind it and bottom cable goes through the middle pulley.

If youre using the .032 aluminum floor boards, as recommended, you can bolt directly through the floor boards. This, however, means you wont be able to remove your floor boards easily. If, you elect to use 1/4 plywood, cut rectangular holes in the floor boards over the tabs and make 1/4 steel spacers so the torque tube is secured in a metal-to-metal fashion. Do NOT bolt through the plywood because it will let the torque tube move. Better yet, cut the floor boards short of control pulleys looking AFT. The far pulley, left, when the torque tubes so the torque tube contacts the Belly looking forward is the cable from the top of the elevator bell steel structure directly. crank. The cable from the bottom goes through the middle and The preferred method is to bolt the rudder the flap calb goes through the right one. and stick assemblies directly to the tubing structure left and right, if not fixed by spacers fabricated and make up aluminum floor panels that fall from tubing. To prevent the spacers from rotating, between the torque tubes. Bend 1/2 lips on the drill a hole through each of the tubes and insert a panels where they come up against the assemblies. cotter pin. It is a close fit with the cable coming This leaves a 3 gap in front of the rudder pedal from the flap handle, so make sure theres no interassembly and the firewall that some builders dont ference before you finalize the side-to-side location fill, However, it is advisable to make up a small of the elevator bell crank. panel to fit in there. When routing the elevator cables through Take note that it is standard aircraft proce- the aft fuselage only the cable that attaches to the dure that all bolts holding parts that move are bottom of the elevator horn goes through the fairdrilled and secured with castellated nuts and cotter lead thats located about half way back. The other pins, not Nyloc nuts. If the parts dont move in rela- cable floats in space. tion to one another, e.g. where the torque tube mounts to the fuselage tab, Nyloc nuts are accept-18-

Installing the Rudder Pedal Assembly

This builder bolted his pedal assembly through the plywood floor boards. The preferred method is to bolt them directly to the tubing structure and shorten the floor boards so they fall between the torque tubes. Note this approach to plumbing the brake cylinders, which utilizes a firewall reservoir. Other approaches will be seen throughout the manual, none of them wrong. Also, note that these rudders have the tabs on the ends of the pedals of the later kits. Earlier kits utilize fender washers bolted to the ends of the pedals to keep the pilots feet from slipping off.

Note: The designer never intended for the floor boards to run under the rudder pedal assembly, although, this is possible if using the .032 aluminum. By shortening the floor boards, the pedal assembly doesnt bolt through them, which makes

it much easier to remove the floor boards. Position the Assembly Before drilling any holes, it is suggested that you collect all of the appropriate parts, including the master cylinders, and, if being used, the

If bolting through the floor boards, a hole (barely visible under the right pedal) must be cut to allow the V connecting struc ture on the torque tube room to move. Note that this builder ran the end of the spring through the hole in the bolt making it double as a cotter pin. Because of the lim ited space ahead of the rudders, a spring at least one-inch in diameter should be used.

right side brake pedals and do a test assembly to see how everything goes together. You can slide bolts through the holes and C clamp the entire assembly in place. -19-

Pay particular attention to the clearance between the master cylinders and the firewall. The recommended brake cylinders are Gerdes long shaft cylinders. They are available from B & B Aircraft. If they are unavailable, use a short shaft Gerdes with a clevis fork. The hydraulic cylinders are attached to the rear of the curved brake pedal with clevis pins and cotter pins or drilled bolts and castellated nuts, but not tightened down. Do the same where the cylinders attach to the fuselage tabs. Floorboard Clearance Hole If you run the floor boards under the pedal assembly, you will need to cut a slot in the floorboard for the little tube V that connects the two sides of the rudder pedal assembly. Make sure you have enough room in the slot for the pedal assembly to move its full travel fore and aft. And dont forget to put a little lubricant in the bearing areas. As weve said, the designer actually prefers that the rudder pedal assembly be bolted directly to the fuselage tabs with the floor boards stopping on the back side (pilot/passenger side) of the assembly. This means there is an opening on the front side of the pedal assembly that can be filled in with a smaller piece of floor board, but its not necessary. Attaching the Rudder Pedal Assembly When attaching the curved brake pedals on top of the rudder pedals, use AN4 bolts and castillated nuts with cotter pins Attach the rudder torque tube assembly to the fuselage tabs with AN3 bolts and Nyloc nuts.

that is drilled and secured with a castle nut and a cotter pin. It is left free to rotate. An 1/8 cable with a shackle and thimble (cable secured by nicopress) is run through the other end of the strap. Another approach that Bob Barrows uses on his own Bearhawks is to make the tabs in two pieces (.050) and sandwich the 1/8 cable and thimble between them. A bolt or clevis pin is run through the sandwich and the cable thimble. Rudder Pedal Return Springs Its necessary that return springs be connected to the rudder pedals to maintain tension on the cables and keep the pedals from folding backward toward the pilot. Use springs of 1 inch diameter. Most Ace Hardware stores have a selection of springs that work perfectly. There are a number of methods of attaching the springs to the rudder pedals. One involves drilling a small hole in the pedal itself, but a more professional way is to build the spring attach point into the .050 steel rudder cable connection strap. When you make the straps that bolt to the pedals and the rudder cables are attached to, just make them long enough that they extend forward and mount the rudder return springs. In other words, that .050 strap has three holes with the spring catching the front one, the middle one bolts to the rudder pedal and the rear most one has the Nicopressed rudder cable shackle going through it. Later kits have a flat connector strap supplied with enough adjustment holes that turnbuckles wont be required. Turnbuckle Placement Running the Rudder Cables Where to place the turnbuckles is optional, When attaching the rudder cables to the out- but we recommend placing the turnbuckles to tenboard sides of the rudder assembly, we recommend sion the cables just aft of the baggage compartment bolting flat 4130 steel (.050) extension straps (pro- area, where you can easily gain access to them but vided in later kits) to each pedal using an AN3 bolt they are out of the way. If you put them too close to the rudder pedals they can get in the way and hang up on shoes or clothing. As previously mentioned, the designer, Bob Barrows, does not use turnbuckles on his rudder cables He extends the two pieces of .050 aft about an inch and drills three holes spaced 1/4 apart. You then connect to the hole that gives the cable the right tension and leaves the rudder pedals in the right neutral position.
This is the correct rudder return spring and will do a much bet ter job than the smaller ones.

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The Flap Control System

The flap system, as shown in the plans, is pretty self explainatory. The button is depressed, which com presses a spring and releases the locking pin in the detents, allowing the lever to be pulled up, which pulls the cable connected to the flap system (not shown here).

Understanding the System Essentially the flap control system is nothing more than a handle that pulls on a cable, which, in turn, pulls the flaps down. Springs in the wings hold the flaps up, when sitting on the ground. The flaps are held in position by notches in a quadrant on the cabin floor. Assembling the Flap Handle Study the assembly shown on Drawing No. 28. Note that a spring inside the handle pushes a pin into notches in the notched quadrant. The spring is a type commonly available at hardware stores. Buy one that is quite a bit too long because you can finetune the. buttons resistance by cutting coils off the spring. The Quadrant The half-moon shaped bracket with the notches in it is attached at the top and the bottom in a way that is self-evident. It slides through a slot cut in the handle and the two can only be final assembled when the spring is installed. Routing the Cable The cable that activates the flap runs aft through the far right (looking forward) pulley of the three pulleys underneath the fuselage. The cable continues to the back of the baggage compartment where it turns upward through the pulley located there. As it turns up parallel to the back of the baggage compartment, it attaches to the bottom point of a triangular piece of 1/8 steel. This is supplied

Another view. Note that this airplane has the early, unsatisfac tory rod end bearings on the landing gear struts that have the grease fitting in them. Do NOT use this kind of bearing. Only the Aurora XAM-7M is approved by the designer.

in later kits and available to all builders at no cost. A turnbuckle is attached to each of the upper corners with a cable going to pulleys located in the upper, rear corners of the baggage compartment. Make sure you are using forked turnbuckles that go on each side of that triangular plate .

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If youre doing the fuselage first, you can run your cables through the upper pulleys, but can proceed no further until installing the wings. Leave the cables long enough that you can trim them and install thimbles when hooking up to the flap actuation arms. Run them forward to the rear spar, add twelve inches, trim and then coil them up and tape them out of the way until youre ready to work with them. When it comes time to set up and adjust the flaps, the flap return springs (supplied0 must have already been installed in the wings. The return springs are an important part of that assembly because they provide the tension necessary to pull the cable system tight so you can see if everything is adjusted properly. The installation of the wing part of the flap system is detailed in the section devoted to the wings. Flap Handle Variations Beginning in mid-2006, an engineering change was made in the flap handles that changed the geometry of the arm coming off the bottom of the lever itself. This gives better ergonomics for the pilot as well as increasing the mechanical advantage and lowering the felt pressure in the lever. At the same time a doubler was welded around the quadrant slot to stiffen the handle and reduce flexing. These levers and their matching quadrants can be retrofitted to any vintage of Bearhawk with little or no modifiThe new flap handle includes cation. a doubler around the quan drant slot to reduce flexing and improved geometry to make it easier to get full flaps with the right seat full forward.

Check the flap cable routing at the pulley thats on the outside of the fuselage behind the wing (its inside the fairing, when finished). Some mis-alignment is unavoidable because the cable runs from one side to the other, as the flaps are low ered, but if it is too much, as pictured here, grind the end off the bushing so the pulley moves in and minimizes the angle. Cable alignment for controls (not flaps), which are in constant motion, should be as perfect as possible.

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Fuselage: Floor Boards

plenty of places for attachement. The floorboards can be attached in several ways, each of which has its advantages and disadvantages. Nut plates. Nut plates offer the advantage of never working loose and using machine bolts/screws, which are very secure. Nutplates are much more work to install with two rivets per unit required, which must be machine counter sunk. Tinnermans/Sheet metal screws. Sheet metal Tinnermans offer the advantage of speed: you need only The floor boards can be aluminum or plywood, although plywood is heavier and requires some dimensional adjustments, if anything is bolted through it. drill the appropriate sized hole and Plywood has some sound deadening qualities. The plans call for .032 2024-T3 slide them over the tab and youre in aluminum and that is whats recommended. Here the flange at the front of the floor boards is visible where they are stopped short of the torque tube, as rec - business. Their disadvantage is that if ommended. Incidentally, most BH fuel valves are mounted where this one is a screw works loose, the Tinnerman and it has been suggested that the building of a guard around it to keep from sometimes comes off the tab and is kicking it out of the detent might not be a bad idea. lost in the belly. Before installing your floor boards, ask oth Monadnocks and machine screws. ers on the BH chat group for a copy of the floor These are a Tinnerman type unit that uses a board patterns. They will make your life much easmachine screw rather than a sheet metal screw. ier. They require a larger hole than normal Tinnermans Essentially, making the floor boards is like but they index in that hole so they have a smaller installing linoleum: most of the work is in getting chance of being dislodged. They cost more than the them cut to the right shape, so dont hesitate to get other methods, but are fast. the patterns, as they are free. Otherwise, do them in poster board first. Sound Deadening for Floor Boards The front floor boards will be built in secThere has been a lot of conversation about tions (were addressing aluminum here: .032 2024the floor boards possibly drumming and needing T3) that nestle down between the rudder pedal insulation. However, there is no conclusive proof assembly and the control stick torque tube. A small that the sound deadening material actually works, lip (3/8-1/2) is bent on each end. The rear floor boards simply bridge the empty spaces and it is up to you whether you bridge the spaces between the various structures under the seats or cover the structure. See the photos for the various ways it has been done by builders. Regardless of how you do it, note the areas where you may want to put an access panel, such as right over the top of the shock struts to help when servicing them. Attaching the Floor Boards The mounting tabs for mounting the floor boards run throughout the cabin area and provide

Fitting around the many mechanisms on the floor is a way to show how well you find solutions that are neat and clean.

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View from rear: The rear floor boards are often done in different ways. Here they are done in an elegant, simple manner: they are two panels, one each side with a vertical lip down each side. Notice in the middle where the vertical lips are joined with a simple cover that lets the flap cable come down through the rear of it. The center flanges add significant stiffness to the floor. Its worth noting that they were designed and fabricated by Phoenix builder Scott Williamsons wife, May Beth.

and it is very heavy. A small square glued to the middle of a large panel may help. The panels could also be beaded using one of the inexpensive beading machines available from places like Harbor Freight, however, some experimentation is required, when doing that to understand the limitation of the concept. Also, most of the cheaper beading machines will require that the rollers be polished so marks arent left on the aluminum. Cable Covers The rudder cables run above the floor boards and flap cables can run inside the headliner. Some builders fabricate small covers that screw to the floor boards or bend a 45 degree edge in the floor boards to hide those from view. This is strictly a cosmetic feature and not a necessity. Rear Bulkhead The rear bulkhead is where your ingenuity and taste come into play as it has been done any number of ways. Some builders lace or snap a canvas cover in place, which is light and provides good rear access. Others make it of aluminum and incorporate a trazoidal ski tube of .020 aluminum that

goes some distance back in the fuselage (light articles only, for CG). Some hinge the bottom portion to provide foot room for when they are sleeping in the back. There are any number of ways it can be treated. When doing the rear bulkhead, regardless of your approach, make sure you provide easy access to the flap cables that run right behind the bulkhead.

This trapizoidal opening is the maximum size possible and parallels the tubing behind it. This one is hinged upward for easy access to cables, etc.

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This builder went for a square ski tube that goes back several Notice how this builder incorporated cable covers at the cor feet. He also installed a ground power plug in the upper left - ners of his floor boards. Also, notice how the seat tracks bare corner. ly stick through the aluminum sidewalls.

Another approach to the rear floor under the seats thats flat ter with bigger outside flanges.

Another view of the cable covers down the walls.

Diamond plate aluminum isnt going to be the lightest floor boards, but this builder was looking for rugged durability. Wed say he got it.

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