DC Speed Controllers
DC Speed Controllers
DC Speed Controllers
This handy circuit can be used as a speed controller for a 12V motor rated up to 5A (continuous) or as a dimmer for a 12V halogen or standard incandescent lamp rated up to 50W. It varies the power to the load (motor or lamp) using pulse width modulation (PWM) at a pulse frequency of around 220Hz. SILICON CHIP has produced a number of DC speed controllers over the years, the most recent being our high-power 24V 40A design featured in the March & April 2008 issues. Another very popular design is our 12V/24V 20A design featured in the June 1997 issue and we have also featured a number of reversible 12V designs. Circuit looks like:
For many applications though, most of these designs are over-kill and a much simpler circuit will suffice. Which is why we are presenting this basic design which uses a 7555 timer IC, a Mosfet and not much else. Being a simple design, it does not monitor motor back-EMF to provide improved speed regulation and nor does it have any fancy overload protection apart from a fuse. However, it is a very efficient circuit and the kit cost is quite low. Parts layout:
Connection diagram:
There are many applications for this circuit which will all be based on 12V motors, fans or lamps. You can use it in cars, boats, and recreational vehicles, in model boats and model railways and so on. Want to control a 12V fan in a car, caravan or computer? This circuit will do it for you. Circuit diagram:
The circuit uses a 7555 timer (IC1) to generate variable width pulses at about 210Hz. This drives Mosfet Q3 (via transistors Q1 & Q2) to control the speed of a motor or to dim an incandescent lamp. Halogen lamps: While the circuit can dim 12V halogen lamps, we should point out that dimming halogen lamps is very wasteful. In situations where you need dimmable 12V lamps, you will be much better off substituting 12V LED lamps which are now readily available in standard bayonet, miniature Edison screw (MES) and MR16 halogen bases. Not only are these LED replacement lamps much more efficient than halogen lamps, they do not get anywhere near as hot and will also last a great deal longer.
After construction and installation, the scanner needs to be calibrated. Initially set P1 to its mechanical centre position and place the robot above the white portion of the track. Now slowly turn P1 to get a good response from D1. After this, fine tune P1 to reduce false
detection caused by external light sources. Also ensure that the LED remains in off condition when the sensor module is on the blackarea. Repeat the process until the correct calibration is achieved. The red color LED (D1) is only a visual indicator. You can add a suitable (5V) reed relay in parallel with D1-R4 wiring after suitable alterations to brake/stop/redirect the robot. Similarly, the High to low (H-L) transition at the collector of T2 can be used as a signal to control the logic blocks of the robot. Resistor R1 determines the operating current of the IRLED inside IC1. The sensing ability largely depends on the reflective properties of the markings on the track and the strength of the light output from IC1.
IrDA Interface Circuit Diagram This IC is faster and meets the latest IrDA specication. The TFDU6102 low-power receiver IC supports IrDA at data rates up to 4 Mbit/s (FIR), HP-SIR, Sharp ASK, and carrier-based remote control modes up to 2 MHz. The IC contains a photodiode, an infrared emitter and CMOS control logic. The IC also has internal protection against electromagnetic immissions and emissions, so no external screening is necessary. The IC works with a supply voltage of 2.75.5 V, so it is suitable for use in desktop PCs, notebooks, palmtops, and PDAs. It is also used in digital still and video cameras, printers, fax machines, copiers, projectors, and many other types of equipment. PCB Layout
Parts PCB Layout IrDA Interface Circuit Diagram Parts: Resistors: R1 = 75 (shape 1210) R2 = 47 (shape 1206)
R3 = 100 k (shape 1206) Capacitors: C1 = 100nF (shape 1206) C2 = 4F7 (shape 1210) Semiconductors: IC1 = TFDU6102TR3 (Vishay) (Farnell) Miscellaneous: X1 = 5-way SIL pinheader The author has designed a printed circuit board for the IrDA module that is only 20 20 mm square. Of course, this means that all of the components are SMD types. The TFDU6102 in the babyface package is available in upright and at versions. Here the upright version (suffix TR3) is used. Thanks to its small size, the assembled circuit board can easily be placed behind a drive bay cover or the like. It is connected to the motherboard by a ve-way at cable. The pin assignments for header X1 must match the mating connector on the motherboard. After you have fitted the module, you may have to edit the BIOS settings to activate the UART for IrDA operation. These settings enable the (Windows) operating system to boot the new device and automatically install it. You may have to briey insert the Windows CD to modify the settings. There is an abundance of free programs on the Internet that use the IrDA interface. A portable USB hard drive is a great way to back up data but what if your USB ports are unable to supply enough "juice" to power the drive? A modified version of the Silicon Chip Usb Power Injector is the answer. For some time now, the author has used a portable USB hard drive to back up data at work. As with most such drives, it is powered directly from the USB port, so it doesnt require an external plug pack supply. Project's Picture:
In fact, the device is powered from two USB ports, since one port is incapable of supplying sufficient current. Thats done using a special USB cable thats supplied with the drive. It has two connectors fitted to one end, forming what is basically a "Y" configuration (see photo). One connector is wired for both power and data while the other connector has just the power supply connections. In use, the two connectors are plugged into adjacent USB ports, so that power for the drive is simultaneously sourced from both ports. USB Cable:
An external USB hard drive is usually powered by plugging two connectors at one end of a special USB cable into adjacent USB ports on the computer. This allows power to be sourced from both ports. According to the USB specification, USB ports are rated to supply up to 500mA at 5V DC, so two connected in parallel should be quite capable of powering a portable USB hard drive at least in theory. Complete Project:
Unfortunately, in my case, it didnt quite work out that way. Although the USB drive worked fine with several work computers, it was a "no-go" on my home machine. Instead, when it was plugged into the front-panel USB ports, the drive repeatedly emitted a distinctive chirping sound as it unsuccessfully tried to spin up. During this process, Windows XP did recognise that a device had been plugged in but thats as far as it went it couldnt identify the device and certainly didnt recognize the drive. Plugging the drive into the rear-panel ports gave exactly the same result. The problem wasnt just confined to this particular drive either. A newly-acquired Maxtor OneTouch4 Mini drive also failed to power up correctly on my home computer, despite working perfectly on several work computers. Circuit diagram:
The revised USB Power Injector is essentially a switch and a 5V regulator. The Vbus supply from USB socket CON1 turns on transistor Q1 which then turns on power Mosfet Q2. This then feeds a 6V DC regulated supply from an external plug pack to regulator REG1 which in turn supplies 5V to USB socket CON2.
Bass Boost is today's sound... whether it's the driving, gut-vibration pulsation of disco, or the solid bass line of soft, hard, or laid-back rock. One way to get the modern bass-boost sound without running out and buying an all-new expensive piece of equipment is to use a Bass Booster between your guitar, electronic organ or what-have-you, and the instrument amplifier. A bass booster strips the highs from the instrument's output signal and amplifies low frequencies, feeding on "all-bass" sound to the instrument amplifier. Naturally, the bigger the speaker used with the amp, the more powerful the bass: use 15-inchers with the Bass Booster and you can rattle the windows. Bass Booster is powered by an ordinary 9 volt transistor radio battery. It can be assembled on a small printed board or on a veroboard using point to point wiring. The booster connects between your instrument and its amplifier through two standard RCA Jacks. Circuit Diagram:
Bass Booster Circuit Diagram Parts: P1 = 50K P2 = 100K R1 = 22K R2 = 470K R3 = 47K R4 = 10K R5 = 470R R6 = 1K Q1 = 2N2222 C1 = 2.2uF-25v C2 = 100nF-63v C31 = 00nF-63V C4 = 3.3uF-25v C5 = 470uF-25v D1 = 5mm. Red Led Q1 = 2N2222 B1 = 9v Battery J1 = RCA Audio Input Socket J2 = RCA Audio Output Socket S1 = On-Off Switch
Using Bass Booster: Connect your electronic guitar or other electronic instrument to input jack J1; Connect output jack J2 to your instruments amplifier's normally-used input. With power switch S1 off, key S2 so the instrument feeds directly to the instrument amplifier. With P2 set full counterclockwise (Off), turn power switch S1 on, key S2 once, and advance P2 for the desired Bass Boost level. To cut back to natural sound just stomp down on S2 and key the Bass Booster out. Don't worry about leaving power switch S1 on for several hours of a gig. The circuit pulls less than 1mA from the battery, so battery will last many, many months.
In the circuit a 555 drives a UCN 5804 stepper motor chip. My problem is with the speed switch set to slow the motor is driven too slow, and with the switch set to fast the motor is driven too fast. I have changed the pot to 1M but the slowest speed (with the switch set to fast) is the fastest
speed I require. At the slowest speed I would like to pulse the motor every 1-2 seconds. I understand that the capacitor and resistors adjust the timing, but I dont understand the relationship between them. Could somebody help me with this?
The circuit shown above can be used to control a unipolar stepper motor which has FOUR coils (I've swiped it off an old fax machine). The above circuit can be for a motor current of up to about 500mA per winding with suitable heat sinks for the SL100. For higher currents power transistors like 2N3055 can be used as darlington pair along with SL100. The diodes are used to protect the transistor from transients.Activating sequence:-
Inputs Coils Energised D0 D1 0 0 A,B 0 1 B,C 1 0 C,D 1 1 D,A To reverse the motor just reverse the above sequence viz. 11,10,01,00. Alternately a 2bit UP/DOWN counter can also be used to control the direction , and a 555 multi-vibrator can be used to control the speed