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    Torneando Pulseras de Madera

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    kevineli
    Turning Wooden Bracelets By Chris Wright For many, woodturning is a hobby but, like most hobbies that require a good amount of supplies, woodturning takes money. This means selling your wares to the public. To capture a broad market you need to diversify from the normal products and cater to current trends. This is how I started turning wooden bracelets. This style of bracelet is called a “bangle.” The following will take you through the simple process of turning a bangle that is finished insi

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    Torneando Pulseras de Madera

    Uploaded by

    kevineli
    410 views2 pages
    Turning Wooden Bracelets By Chris Wright For many, woodturning is a hobby but, like most hobbies that require a good amount of supplies, woodturning takes money. This means selling your wares to the public. To capture a broad market you need to diversify from the normal products and cater to current trends. This is how I started turning wooden bracelets. This style of bracelet is called a “bangle.” The following will take you through the simple process of turning a bangle that is finished insi

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    Turning Wooden Bracelets By Chris Wright For many, woodturning is a hobby but, like most hobbies that require a good amount of supplies, woodturning takes money. This means selling your wares to the public. To capture a broad market you need to diversify from the normal products and cater to current trends. This is how I started turning wooden bracelets. This style of bracelet is called a “bangle.” The following will take you through the simple process of turning a bangle that is finished insi

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    410 views2 pages

    Torneando Pulseras de Madera

    Uploaded by

    kevineli
    Turning Wooden Bracelets By Chris Wright For many, woodturning is a hobby but, like most hobbies that require a good amount of supplies, woodturning takes money. This means selling your wares to the public. To capture a broad market you need to diversify from the normal products and cater to current trends. This is how I started turning wooden bracelets. This style of bracelet is called a “bangle.” The following will take you through the simple process of turning a bangle that is finished insi

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    of 2

    Turning Wooden Bracelets

    By Chris Wright

    For many, woodturning is a hobby but, like most hobbies that require a good amount of supplies, woodturning takes money. This means selling your wares to the public. To capture a broad market you need to diversify from the normal products and cater to current trends. This is how I started turning wooden bracelets. This style of bracelet is called a bangle. The following will take you through the simple process of turning a bangle that is finished inside and out, putting your finished product ahead of the mass production items that department stores sell. Using exotic woods and adding additional enhancements will also set your bangles apart. You will need: Safety gear: faceshield (glasses at the least) & dust mask or respirator Block of turning stock (see first photo for recommended sizes) 4 jaw chuck (I am using a Oneway Stronghold with the #2 jaws) Spindle gouge A thin, narrow parting tool -or- a 2 1/2 hole saw & jacobs chuck Wooden jaw set (see the Wooden Jaw Set project tutorial on turnwood.net to make your own set) Sandpaper & finishing supplies Sizing bracelets: Womens bracelets are normally sized by the interior circumference. While this makes no sense to those of us making them, its the way its done. The average range of sizes (in woodturners terms) is 2 3/8 - 2 7/8 interior diameter with 2 1/2 being the average. To translate our sizing to the masses, simply multiply the diameter by 3.1416. (example: 2 3/8 diameter = 7.46 circumference)

    Tutorial by Chris Wright Photos and Text by Chris Wright Published on www.turnwood.net Distributed by Craft Supplies USA June 2006

    Start with a block of your choice of woods. The blank size will be mainly determined by the opening diameter. I add 1/4 to the desired opening to determine the blank size. The best idea is to measure your 4 jaw chuck in its most open position to determine what the largest diameter block you can use. 3 1/4 is about the largest you will need. Any width will work, but I recommend at least 3/4 wide, most of the women I polled regarding these preferred 1-1 1/2 wide bangles. Once cut to a round blank, place the blank in the chuck. Use a spacer (metal rod, wooden dowel, tool blade) to space the blank out away from the bottom of the chuck jaws about 1/4. This will leave enough room to bevel the back side of the bracelet inner edge. IMPORTANT - Dont forget to remove this spacer prior to starting the lathe! Use the spindle gouge (I am using a 3/8 Robert Sorby spindle gouge with a fingernail grind) to face off the block.

    With the core removed, remount the bracelet in the chuck. Remember to space the piece away from the chuck 1/4 as in step two.

    Using a shear scrape technique (with the flute pointing to approximately the 10:30 position), true and clean up the inside of the bracelet. Bevel the front edge of the bracelet. Use the tip of the gouge to bevel the back edge of the bracelet (this is why we spaced it away from the chuck). You can also turn the blank around in the chuck to bevel the inside edge, but this may require you to true the inside again. Keep in mind, everytime you true up the inside, this will change the size of the bracelet. Once the inner edges are beveled and the insides run true, sand to 600. For these I use friction polish, so I will apply it at this stage to burnish it in on the lathe with a paper towel.

    Next use the parting tool or hole saw to core out the center of the bracelet blank. With both methods, turn the lathe speed down low. High speeds will cause friction and the tool or saw will bind (and possibly break). With the parting tool method, only part to about 3/4 depth maximum. If the bangle is to be wider than 3/4, part to 1/2 way and flip the blank around and finish coring from the opposite side. (The parting tool I am using is part of the Delta micro tools set, 1/16 thick x 1/4 wide blade) If you arent comfortable with coring the blank, it can be hollowed by any standard method. Coring allows you to use the inner core as a blank for a future project. Here you can see the coring doesnt remove the core. This is the case when you use a blank wider than the bracelet is to be, you cant core all the way through or when a hole saw is used. Move on by trueing up the outside of the blank, removing as little material as possible. Mark off the depth of the core and part the bracelet off of the blank.

    Change to the wooden chuck jaws (plans at www.turnwood.net) or soft top jaws and chuck the bracelet against the stop. Turn the outside profile of the bracelet with the spindle gouge. You can add beads, v-cuts, friction burn lines, color, texturing, the possibilities are endless. Finish the piece by sanding to 600 and applying your finish. Again, I used friction polish and burnished it on the lathe with a paper towel.

    Heres the finished product. This bracelet is made from spalted, high figured maple. 2 3/8 opening, 3/16 thick, 1 1/16 wide. Enjoy!

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