Repair KIt Instructions Bixby Energy Systems
Repair KIt Instructions Bixby Energy Systems
Repair KIt Instructions Bixby Energy Systems
• Remove the five screws holding the upper louver (left, right and center). See Figure 1.
• Slide the air diverter plates into the louver slots. The plates need to be close to the
center tab. See Figure 3.
• Slide the plates all the way back, placing the base of the back tab above the heat
exchange tubes. The plates will snap into place and rest on the lip of the top of the
stove. The plates may have to be moved left or right to lock into place. If needed, slide
the plates forward once to rest on the base of the top. See Figure 4.
Figure 1 Figure 2
• Remove the screws on the back panel holding the control panel in place. See
Figure 1.
• Remove the control panel by sliding it forward (towards the front of the
stove). This will be tight and a rubber mallet might be needed.
• Mark and disconnect the ribbon cable from the panel and set the panel to the side.
• Remove the side panels by removing the screw at the top.
• Remove the wrap from the front of the stove (two screws on each side,
inside the side panels). See Figure 1.
• Drill out the rivets holding the hood to the stove frame.
Three rivets near the back of the stove frame (under side profile). See
Figure 1.
Three rivets on the back panel. See Figure 1
Three rivets inside the hopper. See Figures 3 & 4.
One rivet under the hood (if applicable). See Figure 2.
• Remove the hood.
• Install new hood. If needed remove the louvers from the old hood and attach them to
the new hood.
• Using the rivets included in the kit, install the hood.
• Install the control panel, connecting the ribbon cable to the panel first. Be sure to
connect the ribbon cable in the same orientation as it can off.
• Install the screws on the back of the stove to anchor the control panel.
10/2007
DWG. NO. 4000270 Rev B
Remove rivet
under hood
Figure 2 Figure 4
Louver Replacement Kit
Tools needed
Directions
Step 1:
Remove screws holding upper louvers (left and right side,
plus center).
Remove screws
(both sides, plus center)
Step 2:
Pull louvers forward.
4000288 REV A 1
Replacing the MaxFire Control Panel
MaxFire (S/N > 5,000)
Figure 1
Control Panel
Figure 2
Figure 3
Definition of terms:
Hub - The round metal piece that connects the feeder wheel motor shaft to the
feeder wheel.
Self-tapping screw - A screw with a small drill bit built into the end of it. It will
screw into metal without a pilot hole.
Figure 1
Figure 2
DWG. NO. 4000353 Rev B 10/2007 Kit 4000006
Replacing the Heat Exchanger Cover Plates
MaxFire (S/N > 5,000) and UBB
Channel in
scraper
Slot in cover
plate
Scraper
Figure 2
Figure 2
Figure 3
NOTE: An igniter board may get damaged when an igniter burns out leaving the igniter circuit
in the "ON" condition. When this happens, the fuse may likely be damaged as well.
When an igniter is burned out, do the following test to assure proper solution to the problem:
1) Unplug the stove.
2) Replace the medium blow 6.3A fuse with a fast blow fuse between 5 to 6 amps.
DO NOT use the 6.3A fuse.
3) Unplug the damaged igniter.
4) Unplug the exhaust fan, (J13 on the main control board),
plugging it into an igniter port (J5 or J7) on the igniter board.
5) Plug in the stove. If the exhaust fan runs, STOP - the igniter board is bad - Replace the igniter board.
Test the other igniter port in the same manner.
If the exhaust fan runs while plugged into either igniter port, replace the igniter board.
NOTE: If an igniter is burned out on the stove, the stove may not perform the ash dump.
J13
J5
J7
If an error code of (#7 & #1), (#7 & #2) or (#7 & #1-2) has occurred, follow the
next instructions BEFORE REMOVING either of the igniters! DO NOT ASSUME!
Using an ohmmeter (use the lowest scale), measure the resistance of each Igniter to
determine which Igniter is BAD. A good Igniter will read +/- 28 ohms.
Once it is determined which Igniter is bad, continue with the following instructions.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
• Motor jams often or may not turn at all even though it is not jammed.
• #8 LED indicator light blinking and the feeder wheel does not turn.
Definition of terms:
Hub - The round metal piece that connects the feeder wheel motor shaft to the feeder wheel.
Self-tapping screw - A screw with a small drill bit built into the end of it. It will screw into metal
without a pilot hole.
Figure 1
Figure 4
Figure 3
Definition of Terms:
Converter box - This is where the venting enters the stove. It is a galvanized box that separates the intake and exhaust air.
P/N 4000452 Rev B 10/2007 Kit P/N 4000105
Exhaust Fan Tach
Sensor J10
Figure 1
Figure 2
11/32" Nuts
Figure 4
4 5/16" screws
holding the
converter box
& fan together
Figure 5
• The brake is malfunctioning and causing the motor to stop past the limit switch.
• The motor will not cut through the clinker during normal operation.
• The motor runs but the gear box does not turn.
Definition of Terms:
Key – Fits into the keyway in the motor shaft and cam. It keeps the shaft from
spinning inside the cam.
Cam – Moves the tie rod, which in turn moves the paddles inside the firebox.
Kit 4000113
Motor
Cam Shaft
Key
Mother Board
Figure 1 Figure 3
10/2007
DWG. NO. 4000460 Rev B
Pinch Bolt
Figure 2 Figure 4
Replacing the Air Pump
MaxFire S/N 5000 - 9800
Figure 1
Figure 2
Definition of Terms:
Convection fan cover – Silver ring that is used to channel air into the convection fan.
Figure 1
Ground Wire
Figure 2
10/2007
Figure 4
Figure 1
Figure 3
Figure 4
#2 light comes on even though the thermocouple is plugged in and the stove lights
correctly
Figure 3
• Unplug the two spade terminals from the capacitor. (See Figure 1).
Figure 2
Snap Disc -
Brown wires
Figure 1
Screw
Figure 2
Figure 2 Figure 1
5/16"
Figure 6 Figure 5
J3
Right Igniter
Igniter Board
• The exhaust fan is running at too low of speed (#6 diagnostic light will come on)
Glossary: Converter box – This is where the piping enters the stove. It is a galvanized box that
separates the intake and exhaust air.
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
DWG. NO. 4001195-B 11/2007 Kit 4000692
Replacing the Ash Drawer Switch
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 3 Figure 4
Figure 5
Definition of Terms:
Converter box - This is where the venting enters the stove. It is a galvanized box that separates the intake and exhaust air.
Figure 1
Figure 2
5/16"
Figure 4
Figure 2
Figure 2
Figure 3
Current Coil T1
Laptop Terminal
Feeder Wheel
Trim Pots J8
Input Power J4 &
Thermostat J6
High Voltage Molex
Convection Fan
Figure 2
• Pull additional hopper lid switch wire (approx. 6”) thru grommet.
4001426 Rev. A.
Replacing the Top Burn Plate Gasket
MaxFire < 5000
• Starting at the front edge of the upper burn plate, install the new gasket by removing
the adhesive liner from the new gasket (a little at a time) as you apply the gasket to
the bottom perimeter edge. The seam of the gasket should be as it was on the old
gasket.
• The bulb of the gasket should fit closely to the outer edge of the plate.
• Trim any excess length after applying the gasket to the entire perimeter of the upper
burn plate.
• Punch mounting holes in the gasket with the awl over the existing thirteen rivet
locations.
• Assemble the steel gasket retainer to the bottom of the upper burn plate with rivets
included in the kit using the rivet gun.
• Install the upper burn plate in the stove.
• Install the fuel deflector.
• Close the firebox door.
• Plug the stove in.
• Check for proper operation.
• The feeder wheel motor must be removed to allow room to remove the convection fan.
• Remove all of the fuel in the hopper.
• Vacuum the Hopper out.
• Remove the four 5/16" screws holding the feeder wheel cover.
• Remove the feeder wheel cover.
• Using a 1/8" hex wrench (Allen wrench) remove the four screws, springs and spacers from the
Feeder Wheel.
• Remove the feeder wheel and set aside.
• Loosen the two set screws on the feeder wheel hub using a 1/8" hex wrench (Allen wrench).
• Remove the hub.
• Remove the four 1/4" screws from inside the hopper that secure the motor.
• Remove the feeder wheel motor and gently set down next to the stove. If necessary, the feeder
wheel motor may be disconnected from the wiring harness.
• Remove the six 1/4" screws that hold the convection fan cover on. See Figure 3.
• Remove the four (M4-0.7 x 6mm HH metric) screws that hold the convection fan to the
convection fan housing. See Figure 4a & 4b.
• Lift out the fan.
• Place the new fan in the housing.
• Install the four (M4-0.7 x 6mm HH metric) screws that hold the convection fan to the housing.
See Figure 4a & 4b.
• Install the six 1/4" screws that hold the convection fan cover on. See Figure 3.
• Plug the fan back into J12 on the mother board. See Figure 1.
• Cut and strip the two yellow/green wires.
• Connect the ground wire to the ground wire tail left from the old motor using a wire nut.
• Connect the two wires from the capacitor to the convection fan cable.
• Bundle wires with cable ties.
• Connect the upper red air hose from the side of the converter box and tighten the hose clamp.
• Connect and install the axial fan on the right side of the stove. Be sure to ”seat” the fan on the
stoves frame.
• Connect the feeder wheel motor to the wiring harness if it had been disconnected earlier.
• Hold the feeder wheel motor in place and install the four 1/4” screws from inside the hopper.
• Install the feeder wheel hub tightening the two screws using the 1/8” Allen wrench.
• Install the feeder wheel using the four screws, spacers and springs
• Tighten the four screws using the 1/8” Allen wrench.
• Install the feeder wheel cover using four 5/16” screws and tighten.
• Add fuel to the hopper
• Plug in the stove.
• Check for proper operation.
• Install the left and the right side panels.
Definition of Terms:
Convection fan cover – Silver ring that is used to channel air into the convection fan.
11/2007
Convection Fan
Capacitor
Convection Fan
J12
Figure 4b
• Remove the left side panel and the Air Filter from the back of the Stove.
• Unplug the Capacitor from J20 on the Mother Board (See Figure 1).
• Set the Ohm Meter on a HIGH scale and connect to the capacitor.
• A Good capacitor will read infinity to zero (or close to zero) then rise to
infinity again.
• Plug the Capacitor into J20 on the Mother Board (See Figure 1)
Figure 1
Figure 2
P/N 4001509 10/2006
Replacing the Feeder Wheel Motor Assembly
• STOP - READ
• On the back of the Feeder Wheel Plate is a very small Safety Switch which must be
removed.
• The feeder tube may be siliconed to the Feeder Wheel Assembly. Carefully and
slowly pry the assembly away from the back of the Hopper.
• Using a 5/64" hex wrench (Allen wrench), remove the Safety Switch from the rear of
the Feeder Wheel Plate. (Fig. 1). There is no need to disconnect the wires to this
Safety Switch.
• Loosen the 2 (two) 1/2" nuts with a 9/16" open end wrench and carefully unscrew
the Feeder Wheel Sensor from the Feeder Wheel Assembly.
• Remove the Feeder Wheel Assembly from the hopper. Put the NEW Feeder Wheel
Assembly back in the hopper.
• Screw the Feeder Wheel Sensor into the Feeder Wheel Assembly.
• Set the height of the Sensor FLUSH with the Feeder Wheel Plate - back the Sensor
out 1/2 to 1 turn out.
• Tighten top jam nut.
• Tighten the lower jam nut.
• Re-install the Safety Switch onto the rear of the new assembly with the supplied 6-32
Phillips head screw.
• Make sure the Feeder Tube Seal and Washer is carefully aligned and correctly
installed (see Fig. 1).
• Secure the assembly to the hopper with two (2) 5/16" screws (Fig. 4).
• Attach the old Feeder Wheel to the new hub using the four (4) screws, springs and
spacers you removed earlier (Fig. 4).
• Re-install the silicone flap using the two (2) 5/16" screws removed earlier (Fig. 3).
• Replace the Feeder Wheel cover and spacers with the four (4) 5/16" screws (Fig. 2).
• Re-attach the two wires going to the motor.
Definition of terms:
Hub - The round metal piece that connects the feeder wheel motor shaft to the feeder
wheel.
Safety Switch
Spring
Washer
Fig. 1
Nylon Spacer
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
J8 TC1
Future
Ash Content
J16 Burn Drive Motor
J2 Right Igniter
J3 120v Power
Thermostat J4
Figure 1
Plastic Clips
Definition of Terms:
Converter box - This is where the piping enters the stove. It is a galvanized box that separates the intake and exhaust air.
Exhaust Fan
J18
Figure 1
Thermocouple
Figure 2
11/32" Nuts
Figure 4
4 5/16" screws
holding the
converter box
& fan together
Figure 5
Figure 1
J17
Definition of Terms:
Convection fan cover – Silver ring that is used to channel air into the convection fan.
J19
Ground
Wire
Figure 2
11/2007
Figure 4
• From Fig. 1, loosen the two (2) screws as shown in fig.2 – DO NOT REMOVE.
• Slide the new Switch Assembly between the Terminal Block and the back plate.
• Tighten the two (2) screws as shown in Fig.2. The Switch Assembly in now
mounted.
• You will be installing the two (2) wires into the plug as shown in Fig 1 (J11).
• Carefully insert the wires as shown in fig. 4 into the slots as shown in Fig. 3.
• Push the wires into the slots ALL the way in until you feel a small click.
• The two (2) wires should now look like those in fig.5
• You are now done with the conversion.
• Turn the switch to either Corn or Pellets for the fuel you are using.
• Plug the stove in.
• Test for proper operation
Phillips screwdriver
Straight blade screwdriver
Figure 2
Figure 1
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
Side cutter
5/16" wrench
Ratchet and 3/8" socket
Utility Knife
G C
Figure 1
J10
Figure 2
600º Silicone
Figure 3